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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Interior of North America,
+Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843), by Alexander
+Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites,
+Translated by Hannibal Evans Lloyd, Illustrated by Karl Bodmer
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels in the Interior of North America, Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843)
+       Early Western Travels, 1748-1846, Volume XXII
+
+
+Author: Alexander Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied
+
+Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012  [eBook #38784]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH
+AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Greg Bergquist, Melissa McDaniel, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images
+generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries
+(http://www.archive.org/details/americana)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 38784-h.htm or 38784-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38784/38784-h/38784-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38784/38784-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav22thwa
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      This book's editors sought to "reproduce the old text as
+      closely as practicable, with its typographic and orthographic
+      peculiarities." The transcriber has honored that intent.
+
+      The pagination of the original journal edition here reprinted
+      is indicated by enclosing, within brackets, the number of the
+      page at its beginning, e.g. [pg. 24].
+
+      Unnumbered illustration pages have been moved to the closest
+      reference in the text.
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). Text
+      enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+Early Western Travels
+1748-1846
+Volume XXII
+
+Early Western Travels
+1748-1846
+
+A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best and rarest
+contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive of the Aborigines and
+Social and Economic Conditions in the Middle and Far West, during
+the Period of Early American Settlement
+
+Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by
+Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.
+
+Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's
+New Discovery," etc.
+
+Volume XXII
+
+PART I OF MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED'S, TRAVELS IN THE
+INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, 1832-1834
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Cleveland, Ohio
+The Arthur H. Clark Company
+1906
+
+Copyright 1906, by
+The Arthur H. Clark Company
+
+All Rights Reserved
+
+The Lakeside Press
+R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company
+Chicago
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXII
+
+
+  PREFACE TO VOLUMES XXII-XXIV. _The Editor_                      9
+
+  TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA. [Part I,
+    being chapters i-xv of the London edition, 1843.]
+    _Maximilian, Prince of Wied._ Translated from the
+    German by _Hannibal Evans Lloyd_
+
+      Author's Preface                                           25
+
+      Translator's Preface                                       31
+
+      Text:
+
+        CHAPTER I--Voyage to Boston, Stay in
+          that City, and Journey to New York,
+          from May 17th to July 9th, 1832                        37
+
+        CHAPTER II--Stay in New York, Philadelphia,
+          and Bordentown, from the 9th
+          to the 16th of July                                    57
+
+        CHAPTER III--Residence at Freiburg and
+          Bethlehem in Pennsylvania, from July
+          30th to August 23rd                                    72
+
+        CHAPTER IV--Journey to the Pokono,
+          and through the Blue Mountains to
+          Mauch Chunk, in the Coal District,
+          from the 23rd to the 30th of August                    87
+
+        CHAPTER V--Description of Mauch Chunk
+          and its Coal Mines--Journey through
+          the Lehigh Valley to Bethlehem, and
+          last Residence in that Town, from
+          August 31st to September 16th                         119
+
+        CHAPTER VI--Journey from Bethlehem
+          to Pittsburg, over the Alleghanys, from
+          September 17th to October 7th                         128
+
+        CHAPTER VII--Journey from Pittsburg to
+          New Harmony, on the Wabash, from
+          the 8th to the 19th of October                        144
+
+        CHAPTER VIII--Description of the Country
+          about New Harmony, in Indiana,
+          and Winter Residence there from
+          October 19th, 1832, to March 16th, 1833               163
+
+        CHAPTER IX--Journey from New Harmony
+          to St. Louis on the Mississippi,
+          and our Stay there, from March 16th
+          to April 9th                                          198
+
+        CHAPTER X--Journey from St. Louis to
+          the Cantonment of Leavenworth, or
+          to the Borders of the Settlement, from
+          the 10th to the 22nd of April                         237
+
+        CHAPTER XI--Journey from the Cantonment
+          of Leavenworth to the Punca Indians,
+          from April 22nd to May 12th                           255
+
+        CHAPTER XII--Voyage from L'Eau qui
+          Court to Fort Pierre, on the Teton
+          River (the Little Missouri), and Stay
+          there, from May 13th to June 4th                      291
+
+        CHAPTER XIII--Voyage from Fort Pierre,
+          on the Teton River, to Fort
+          Clarke, near the Villages of the Mandans,
+          from the 5th to the 19th of June                      330
+
+        CHAPTER XIV--Voyage from Fort Clarke
+          to Fort Union, near the Mouth of the
+          Yellow Stone River, from the 19th to
+          the 24th of June                                      356
+
+        CHAPTER XV--Description of Fort Union
+          and its Neighbourhood                                 375
+
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XXII
+
+
+     Facsimile of title-page to Maximilian's _Travels_           23
+
+       (The following are text cuts in original)
+
+     Bear-trap                                                  107
+
+     Indian pipes                                               175
+
+     Neck-yoke and plow                                         175
+
+     Formations of limestone rocks                              213
+
+     Omaha Indians                                              269
+
+     An Omaha boy                                               269
+
+     Omaha war club                                             269
+
+     Punca war club                                             269
+
+     Punca Indians in buffalo robes                             287
+
+     Method of wearing hair                                     287
+
+     Bows, arrows, and quiver                                   287
+
+     Tents of the Sioux                                         319
+
+     Plan of Fort Pierre                                        319
+
+     Dakota pipes                                               323
+
+     A Dakota, with plaited hair                                323
+
+     A Teton                                                    323
+
+     Hill of baked clay                                         323
+
+     Antlers of deer                                            347
+
+     Sioux burial stages                                        347
+
+     A Blackfoot musical instrument                             361
+
+     Stone battle-axe                                           361
+
+     Assiniboin pipes                                           361
+
+     Pipe for warlike expeditions                               361
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO VOLUMES XXII-XXIV
+
+
+Early trans-Mississippi exploration was undertaken largely in the
+interests of science. The great expedition of Lewis and Clark
+(1804-06) was, both in conception and plan, a scientific excursion.
+Bradbury and Brackenridge voyaged up the Missouri (1811) in search of
+rare plants and animals, Nuttall sought the Arkansas (1819) on a
+similar errand. Long's expedition (1819-20) was entirely scientific,
+both in organization and objects; while Townsend crossed the continent
+with Nathaniel Wyeth (1834) to secure a harvest of rare birds in the
+mountains and beyond. In the early nineteenth century, scientific
+collection was the chief object of ambition among thoughtful
+explorers--to secure for the world a complete catalogue of its plants
+and animals was worth much toil and hardship, heroic endeavor, and
+mighty daring. To such, the still unknown regions of the New World
+offered strong attractions. There were in the trans-Mississippi and in
+South America, spread out upon mountains and prairies and bordering
+far-flowing streams, fresh races of barbarians yet uncontaminated by
+civilized contact, beasts of prey, birds of brilliant plumage, and
+unknown plant species.
+
+Among those to whom this call of the New World came clearly, was a
+German savant, prince of a small house in Rhenish Prussia. Even while
+upon Napoleonic battle-fields, he felt a desire for the wilderness,
+and news of the victory of Waterloo reached him upon the far-distant
+rivers of Brazil. His later journey to North America was but the
+completion of a purpose formed in early boyhood. Alexander Philip
+Maximilian, Prince of Wied-Neuwied, was born in the quaint capital of
+his little Rhenish sovereignty in September, 1782. The eighth child of
+the reigning Friedrich Karl, natural aptitude for study early marked
+his career for that of a scholar. Nevertheless, in obedience to the
+call of patriotism, he entered the Prussian army and was present at
+the battle of Jena. Soon thereafter he was captured and for some time
+suffered imprisonment. Exchanged and returned to Neuwied, he continued
+the scientific pursuits which had long interested him; but a fresh
+military crisis called him once more into service, in which he rose to
+a major-generalship, won the honor of the iron cross at Chalons, and
+entered Paris with the victorious army in 1813. Reminiscences of this
+warlike experience came to him twenty years later in the Missouri
+wilderness, when he notes that the song of the Assiniboin warriors
+before Fort McKenzie resembled that of the Russian soldiers heard in
+the winter of 1813-14.
+
+While successful as a soldier, at heart Maximilian was a searcher for
+knowledge. In his boyhood his mother had encouraged his love for
+natural history, and under the direction of his tutor he had begun a
+collection that was creditable to a youth. Later, in his university
+course, he came under the influence of the celebrated Professor Johann
+Friedrich Blumenbach, and as a favorite pupil absorbed from him a keen
+desire to contribute to the world's stock of knowledge. Throughout
+what leisure he could snatch in the Napoleonic campaigns, the young
+prince was planning a scientific expedition to Brazil, and no sooner
+was he finally released from martial duties than he made preparations
+that culminated, early in 1815, in a departure for that country.
+Joined in South America by two German scholars who had preceded him
+thither, the trio spent two years in the tropical forests of that
+country, studying its flora and fauna, and above all the native races.
+After the return to Germany, Maximilian's succeeding years were spent
+in arranging his collections and preparing for publication the results
+of his journey. His _Reise nach Brasilien in den Jahren 1815 bis 1817_
+(Frankfurt, 1820-21) was soon translated into French, Dutch, and
+English; later appeared _Beitrage zur Naturgeschichte von Brasilien_
+(Weimar, 1825-33), designed to accompany the atlas of ninety plates,
+entitled _Abbildungenen zur Naturgeschichte Brasiliens_ (Weimar,
+1822-31). The publication of these works gave Maximilian an honored
+place among scientists, and proclaimed his ability as an exploring
+naturalist.
+
+By 1831 the prince was engaged in preparations for his second great
+enterprise--a visit to North America, including a scientific
+exploration of the trans-Mississippi region. Embarking on an American
+packet at Helvoetsluys, May 17, 1832, our traveller arrived in Boston
+amid the salvos of artillery ushering in the anniversary of American
+independence.
+
+Maximilian was accompanied on this voyage by a young Swiss artist,
+Charles Bodmer, whom he had engaged to paint primitive landscapes in
+the New World, together with portraits of its aborigines. The artist's
+work proved eminently successful, as evidenced by the rare quality of
+the plates engraved from his sketches, which we reproduce in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. Bodmer--born in Zurich in
+1805--had studied in Paris; after his excursion to America with
+Maximilian, he returned to his former haunts, finally settling with
+the artist colony at Barbizon, in the forest of Fontainebleau, where
+he became a successful landscapist, and received medals of honor at
+the salons of 1851, 1855, and 1863, and in 1876 the ribbon of the
+legion of honor. One of his canvases was purchased by the French
+government for the Luxembourg gallery. His son Henri, also a painter,
+was recently exhibiting in the Paris salons. During the winter spent
+at Fort Clark, Bodmer experienced several adventures. At one time he
+was for several hours lost upon the prairie; again, his paints and
+oils congealed in the zero-blasts of the Dakotan winter. His interest
+in his task, however, was unwearied; by cajolery, bribery, and rare
+patience he secured sittings from famous Indian chiefs, faithfully
+presenting their portraits to the world in the full equipment of
+savage finery, thus giving us an unexcelled gallery of Indian types
+and costumes.
+
+In addition to this admirable artist--in some respects perhaps the
+most competent draughtsman who has thus far sought to depict the North
+American tribesmen--Prince Maximilian was accompanied by his faithful
+j�ger Dreidoppel, who had been with him in Brazil, and who rendered
+efficient service on the Missouri hills and prairies.
+
+"There are," our author tells us in his preface, "two distinct points
+of view" from which the traveller may study the United States--he may
+consider its present conditions and its future prosperity; its
+resources, population, immigration, and "gigantic strides of
+civilization." Maximilian's own purpose, however, was to collect data
+concerning the remnants of its aboriginal population, and the
+primitive state of its fields and forests; these he sought to observe
+and to perpetuate both in description and drawing. The America of the
+Eastern states had therefore slight charm for our traveller, his
+object being to reach the frontier as soon as was consistent with his
+scientific purposes.
+
+Tarrying briefly in Boston, New York, and Philadelphia, communities
+which he describes in a few terse sentences, he sought the forests of
+Pennsylvania for preliminary experience in the simpler phases of
+woodcraft and hunting, as well as to visit the German immigrants
+settled in this region. He had expected to journey westward by way of
+the Great Lakes, but the appearance of cholera at Detroit and Buffalo
+made this plan impractical; instead, he visited the Moravians at
+Bethlehem, and made a leisurely journey through northern Pennsylvania,
+inspecting the coal mines and the geological structures. In the early
+autumn the prince and his two companions reached Pittsburg, but there
+finding the water in the Ohio too low for navigation, they went
+overland to Wheeling, where they embarked (October 9) for the descent
+of the river. At Louisville, they found that the cholera scourge had
+preceded them, whereupon with but a brief stay they continued their
+voyage to the Wabash, where they turned aside to visit the colony of
+naturalists settled at the Indiana town of New Harmony.
+
+For some years Maximilian had been in correspondence with Thomas Say,
+the entomologist, who had accompanied Major S. H. Long's expedition,
+and was now managing the property of William Maclure, president of the
+Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences, who had purchased Robert
+Owen's communistic settlement on the Wabash, founded in 1825. Owen's
+two sons, Robert Dale and William, were still in the vicinity,
+together with Charles Alexander Lesueur, a French naturalist of
+repute. Even more attractive than the society of the scientists was
+the presence of a good library of Americana and natural history, at
+that time probably the best west of the Atlantic seaboard. Here,
+therefore, on the banks of the Wabash, our naturalist contentedly
+spent the winter of 1832-33, preparing for his journey into the Far
+West, and studying the antiquities and natural sciences of America.
+During these months, Bodmer made a voyage to New Orleans, but returned
+in time to set forth with his patron, March 16, 1833. After a
+steamboat journey to the mouth of the Ohio and up the Mississippi,
+they arrived at St. Louis before the departure for the interior of the
+usual spring caravans of the Western fur-traders.
+
+At this entrep�t of the wilderness trade, Maximilian presented letters
+to its prominent citizens, and was invited by General William Clark to
+accompany a deputation of Sauk and Foxes, headed by Keokuk, on a visit
+to the imprisoned Sauk chiefs, Black Hawk and his confr�res, at
+Jefferson Barracks. The interest with which Maximilian regarded these
+first North American barbarians whom he had come so far to see, is
+well expressed in the narrative. Black Hawk he describes as a "little
+old man, perhaps seventy years of age, with grey hair, and a light
+yellow complexion, a slightly curved nose, and Chinese features, to
+which the shaven head, with the usual tuft behind, not a little
+contributed." The meeting between the prisoners and their free
+countrymen appeared to the prince most affecting.
+
+Maximilian had desired to visit the Rocky Mountains and their
+inhabitants, and accordingly planned to join one of the annual
+fur-trading caravans that, under the auspices of the Rocky Mountain
+Fur Company, set off for their rendezvous in the heart of the
+Cordilleras. From this purpose he was dissuaded by General Clark,
+Major Benjamin O'Fallon, and other St. Louis folk cognizant with the
+situation. They represented to the illustrious traveller that these
+caravans avoided rather than sought the Indians; and that if they met,
+the encounter was apt to be hostile rather than friendly. It would
+also be extremely difficult to transport any extensive collections of
+fauna and flora by the land route. They thereupon advised a visit to
+the American Fur Company's trading posts on the Missouri via that
+company's annual steamboat, a plan which met the approval of the
+scientist and his companions.
+
+The tenth of April, 1833, the travellers boarded the "Yellowstone," on
+its third trip to the posts of the upper Missouri. Before parting with
+Major O'Fallon, the latter gave them a manuscript map copied from one
+prepared during the Lewis and Clark expedition by Clark himself, the
+topographer of that famous exploring party. This chart was constantly
+used by the prince. His narrative recites the daily routine and
+incidents of the river voyage on the outward route. By April 22 the
+steamer had reached Fort (then Cantonment) Leavenworth, and ten days
+later they were at Bellevue, just below the present Omaha. It was not
+until the eighteenth of May that the prince's party were greeted by
+their first sight of buffalo, and by the last of that month they had
+arrived at Fort Pierre, the company's main post among the Sioux. Here
+our travellers were transferred from the "Yellowstone" to her sister
+steamer, the "Assiniboine," a newer, larger boat with, however, a
+lighter draught; the latter was to continue to the upper river, while
+the "Yellowstone" returned to St. Louis.
+
+Slowly the party steamed up the river, past the Sioux territory and
+the Arikara villages into the land of the Mandan and the Minitaree,
+where on June 18 they were landed at the company's Fort Clark, just
+below a Mandan village several miles above the present Bismarck, North
+Dakota. Tarrying here but one day, the steamer continued its journey
+to the mouth of Yellowstone River, where Fort Union was reached on the
+twenty-fourth of June. After spending two weeks at this point,
+Maximilian and his suite were transferred to a keel-boat, and
+continued their voyage to Fort McKenzie, on Maria's River, among the
+treacherous Blackfeet.
+
+Here, during a stay of two months, the German naturalist was initiated
+into the mysteries of the fur-trade, came to understand the jealousies
+and rivalries of Indian tribes, and witnessed a battle before the
+stockade of the fort, between Blackfeet and Assiniboin warriors.
+Because of this intertribal quarrel and the consequent restlessness
+and untrustworthiness of the neighboring barbarians, it was deemed
+inexpedient by the fur-traders for the travellers to advance farther
+into the Rockies, and Maximilian had need to content himself with such
+glimpses of the mountain ranges as could be had from the bluffs of
+Maria's River, and the upper reaches of the Missouri. The
+"Assiniboine" having long since departed on the home trip, the chief
+factor at Fort McKenzie built a barge for the princely visitor, upon
+which Maximilian embarked (September 14), together with a small crew
+of _voyageurs_, two cages of live bears, and several animal pets.
+
+Since wintering in the mountains had proved impracticable, our author
+determined to occupy the long cold months now at hand with the most
+interesting aborigines of the upper river. For this purpose he
+selected the Mandan and Minitaree, both because of their settled
+habitations and of the interest that these tribes had awakened in
+previous travellers. Known first to the early French explorers, it was
+from their villages that the V�rendrye brothers had in 1742 set forth
+on their explorations toward the "Shining Mountains." Located at the
+upper bend of the Missouri, they were readily accessible to British
+traders of the Assiniboin and Saskatchewan valleys, who were found as
+habitu�s in their villages by Lewis and Clark, in 1804-05. Accordingly
+Maximilian requested permission of the American Fur Company officials
+to pass the winter at Fort Clark, the Mandan post. McKenzie
+accommodatingly ordered to be built for the famous traveller a small
+house within the stockade, and every facility to be given him for
+making records of the neighboring tribesmen. In company with Toussaint
+Charbonneau, Lewis and Clark's former interpreter, the German visitor
+attended various ceremonies, dances, and feasts, took many portraits
+of the chiefs, and studied the manners and customs, and myths and
+superstitions of this vanishing race. The latter part of the winter
+the prince suffered with a serious attack of scurvy, from which,
+however, he recovered in time to set forth for the lower country on
+the breaking up of the ice.
+
+By the eighteenth of May he was once more at Fort Leavenworth. After
+brief visits at St. Louis and New Harmony, he journeyed eastward by
+way of the Ohio Canal and Lake Erie, stopped to wonder at the majesty
+of the Falls of Niagara, and on July 16, 1834, embarked at New York on
+the Havre packet for the Old World. A large portion of his collections
+were left behind at Fort Pierre, to be forwarded with the season's
+furs by the annual steamer. A fire occurring on the "Assiniboine," but
+few of these natural history specimens ever reached him, and one
+object of the prince's American visit was thereby frustrated.
+
+An interesting reminiscence of the visit of Prince Maximilian is found
+in the journals of Alexander Culbertson, a young fur-trade clerk who
+accompanied the scientist from Fort Union to Fort McKenzie. Culbertson
+says: "In this year an interesting character in the person of Prince
+Maximilian from Coblentz on the Rhine, made his first appearance in
+the upper Missouri. The Prince was at that time nearly seventy years
+of age [fifty-five], but well preserved, and able to endure
+considerable fatigue. He was a man of medium-height, rather slender,
+sans teeth, passionately fond of his pipe, unostentatious, and
+speaking very broken English. His favorite dress was a white slouch
+hat, a black velvet coat, rather rusty from long service, and probably
+the greasiest pair of trousers that ever encased princely legs. The
+Prince was a bachelor and a man of science, and it was in this latter
+capacity that he had roamed so far from his ancestral home on the
+Rhine. He was accompanied by an artist named Boadman [Bodmer] and a
+servant whose name was, as near as the author has been able to
+ascertain its spelling, Tritripel [Dreidoppel] ... McKenzie
+subsequently visited him in his palace at Coblentz, where he lived in
+a style befitting a prince, and was received with great cordiality and
+entertained with lavish hospitality. He inquired whether the double
+barrelled gun and the meershaum had reached their destination, as he
+had remembered his promise and forwarded them soon after his return to
+Europe. They had not, and never were received, for it subsequently
+appeared that the vessel in which they were shipped was lost; so they
+are probably now among the ill-gotten hoards of the Atlantic."[1]
+
+The years immediately following the prince's return to Europe were
+spent in preparing the results of his journey for the press. This
+proved to be his last foreign expedition, but he nevertheless
+continued absorbed with studies and consequent collections at his
+native place until death removed him in 1867. A few months before that
+event he wrote an interesting letter in English to the artist George
+Catlin, whose account of Mandan religious ceremonies had been
+discredited by many. The prince therein speaks of reviving the "quite
+forgotten recollections of my stay among the Indian tribes of the
+Missouri, now thirty-three years past," and says that not only does he
+know "most of the American works published on the American Indians,"
+but he possesses many of them.[2] His library and collections are yet
+cherished as the chief treasures of Neuwied, where his grand-nephew
+Wilhelm still directs the principality's affairs.
+
+The narrative of Maximilian's North American journey was first
+published in German, having been written, as the author says, for
+foreigners rather than Americans, its title being _Reise in das Innere
+Nord-America in den Jahren 1832 bis 1834_ (Coblentz, 1839-41), and its
+form two handsome quarto volumes, with an atlas of Bodmer's
+remarkable engravings. A French edition in three volumes, with the
+atlas, appeared at Paris in 1840-43. The Englished version, undertaken
+by H. Evans Lloyd, was issued in London in 1843, in one quarto volume.
+This latter translation we here reprint for the first time. In
+addition we have included in the Appendix to our volume xxiv, the
+twenty-three Indian vocabularies, one of the glories of the German
+original, which feature has never been reproduced in any other of the
+translated editions. Carefully recorded and scientifically collated by
+a trained observer and scholar, they form a contribution to American
+philology now impossible to duplicate. But five years after
+Maximilian's visit to the upper river, smallpox broke out among the
+tribes, and carried its ravages to such an extent that bands once
+powerful were reduced to scanty remnants. The Mandan were at the time
+reported to be absolutely annihilated; a few, however, are still
+living on Fort Berthold reservation, in North Dakota. Maximilian's
+observations are the more valuable because made in the plenitude of
+that tribe's power and prosperity, before their diminished numbers
+made them subservient to the invading fur-traders.
+
+In addition to the vocabularies, and unique in the present English
+edition, we present Maximilian's account of the Indian sign language,
+his catalogues of birds for both the Missouri and Wabash river
+valleys, and a summary of his meteorological observations on the upper
+Missouri. All of these were omitted from the London edition of 1843.
+It has been our purpose to give to American readers the entire
+scientific as well as narrative product of the prince's famous
+expedition.
+
+While the chief value of the present work lies in its ethnological
+significance, it is highly interesting as an historical description of
+natural conditions west of the Mississippi, seventy years ago. The
+author's style is simple, natural, and unforced, rather the expression
+of the scientific than of the literary type of mind. A traveller of
+today, gliding across the plains and along the windings of the
+Missouri in a palace-car, may follow the pages of Maximilian and the
+plates of Bodmer, and thus obtain as clearly as words and pictures can
+express, an accurate presentation of the trans-Mississippi region in
+1833. These volumes are thus a fitting supplement to the work of the
+prince's great progenitors, the American explorers, Lewis and Clark.
+
+In preparing this volume for the press, the Editor has had throughout
+the valuable assistance of Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph.D., who in turn
+has been aided by Clarence Cory Crawford, A.M. The translations from
+the German, not given by Lloyd, have been made for the present reprint
+by Asa Currier Tilton, Ph.D., chief of the department of maps and
+manuscripts in the Wisconsin Historical Library.
+
+     R. G. T.
+
+     MADISON, WIS., November, 1905.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Montana Historical Society _Contributions_, iii, pp. 206, 207.
+
+[2] Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, part ii, p. 378.
+
+
+
+
+
+     PART I OF MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED'S, TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR
+     OF NORTH AMERICA
+
+     Reprint of chapters i-xv of London edition: 1843
+
+
+
+
+
+     TRAVELS
+     IN
+     THE INTERIOR OF
+     NORTH AMERICA.
+
+     BY
+     MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED.
+
+     WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD,
+     AND A LARGE MAP.
+
+     TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN,
+     BY H. EVANS LLOYD,
+
+     TO ACCOMPANY THE ORIGINAL SERIES OF EIGHTY-ONE
+     ELABORATELY-COLOURED PLATES.
+
+     SIZE, IMPERIAL FOLIO.
+
+     LONDON:
+     ACKERMANN AND CO., 96, STRAND
+     MDCCCXLIII.
+
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+Immense additions have been made of late years to our knowledge of the
+extensive continent of North America. A large portion of that country,
+which, only a few years ago, was covered with almost uninterrupted
+primeval forests, and a scanty, scattered population of rude
+barbarians, has been converted, by the influx of emigrants from the
+Old World, into a rich and flourishing State, for the most part
+civilized, and almost as well known and cultivated as Europe itself.
+Large and flourishing towns, with fine public institutions of every
+kind, have risen rapidly, and every year adds to their number.
+Animated commerce, unfettered, unlimited industry, have caused this
+astonishing advance of civilization in the United States. The tide of
+emigration is impelled onwards, wave upon wave, and it is only the
+sterility of the North-west that can check the advancing torrent.
+
+We already possess numerous accounts of these daily-increasing States,
+and there are many good statistical works on the subject. We have even
+excellent general works on the physical state of this continent, among
+which Volney's "Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis," holds a
+high rank.[3] Little, however, has yet been done towards a clear and
+vivid description of the natural scenery of North America: the works
+of American writers themselves on this subject, with the exception of
+Cooper's and Washington Irving's animated descriptions, cannot be
+taken into account, as, in writing for their countrymen, they take it
+for granted that their readers are well acquainted with the country.
+
+For this reason I have endeavoured, in the following work, to supply
+this deficiency to the best of my ability, and have aimed rather at
+giving a clear and faithful description of the country, than at
+collecting statistical information. Hence these travels are designed
+for foreign, rather than for American readers, to whom, probably, but
+few of the details would be new.
+
+There are two distinct points of view in which that remarkable country
+may be considered. Some travellers are interested by the rude,
+primitive character of the natural face of North America, and its
+aboriginal population, the traces of which are now scarcely
+discernible in most parts of the United States; while the majority are
+more inclined to contemplate the immigrant population, and the
+gigantic strides of civilization introduced by it. The account of my
+tour through a part of these countries, contained in the following
+pages, is chiefly intended for readers of the first class. I have
+avoided the repetition of numerous statements which may be found in
+various statistical publications; but, on the contrary, have aimed at
+a simple description of nature. As the United States were merely the
+basis of my more extensive undertaking, the object of which [vi] was
+the investigation of the upper part of the course of the Missouri,
+they do not form a prominent feature, and it is impossible to expect,
+from a few months' residence, an opinion on the social condition and
+character of that motley population.
+
+The indulgent reader, following the author beyond the frontier of the
+United States, will have to direct his attention to those extensive
+plains--those cheerless, desolate prairies, the western boundary of
+which is formed by the snow-covered chain of the Rocky Mountains, or
+the Oregon, where many tribes of the aborigines still enjoy a peaceful
+abode; while their brethren in the eastern part of the continent are
+supplanted, extirpated, degenerated, in the face of the constantly
+increasing immigration, or have been forced across the Mississippi,
+where they have for the most part perished.
+
+The vast tracts of the interior of North-western America are, in
+general, but little known, and the government of the United States may
+be justly reproached for not having done more to explore them. Some
+few scientific expeditions, among which the two under Major Long
+produced the most satisfactory results for natural history, though on
+a limited scale, were set on foot by the government; and it is only
+under its protection that a thorough investigation of those extensive
+wildernesses, especially in the Rocky Mountains, can be undertaken.[4]
+Even Major Long's expeditions are but poorly furnished with respect to
+natural history, for a faithful and vivid picture of those countries,
+and their original inhabitants, can never be placed before the eye
+without the aid of a fine portfolio of plates by the hand of a skilful
+artist.
+
+In my description of the voyage up the Missouri, I have endeavoured to
+avail myself of the assistance of an able draughtsman, the want of
+which I so sensibly felt in my former travels in South America. On the
+present occasion I was accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, who has represented
+the Indian nations with great truth, and correct delineation of their
+characteristic features. His drawings will prove an important addition
+to our knowledge of this race of men, to whom so little attention has
+hitherto been paid.
+
+After mature consideration, I have judged it desirable to throw the
+account of my voyage on the Missouri itself into the form of a
+journal, as the daily notices were numerous, but the variety very
+trifling; so that the patience of the reader will unfortunately be
+tried a little in this part of the narrative. In those uninhabited,
+desert countries the traveller has nothing but the description of the
+naked banks of the river, and the little diversity they afford,
+interrupted at times by the adventures of the chase, and occasional
+meetings with Indians; the reader will therefore excuse many
+observations and unimportant descriptions, which would have been
+omitted if the materials had been richer in variety. I need still more
+indulgence with respect to many observations on natural history, but
+for this the loss of the greater part of my collections will be a
+sufficient excuse. The cases containing them were delivered to the
+Company, to be put on board the steamer for St. Louis, but not
+insured; and, when the steamer caught fire, the people thought rather
+of saving the goods than my cases, the contents of which were,
+probably, not considered to be of much value, and so they were all
+burnt. This may be a warning to future travellers not to neglect to
+insure such collections.
+
+Though the main object of my journey, namely, to pass some time in the
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, was defeated by unfavorable circumstances,
+I should have been able, but for the loss of my collections, to
+communicate many new observations, especially in the department of
+zoology, which are now more or less deficient. The accounts of the
+tribes of the aborigines, and [vii] especially of the Mandans and
+Manitaries, are more complete, because I spent a whole winter among
+them, and was able to have daily intercourse with them. Authentic and
+impartial accounts of the Indians of the Upper Missouri are now
+especially valuable, if the information that we have since received is
+well founded, namely, that to the many evils introduced by the Whites
+among those tribes, a most destructive epidemic--smallpox--has been
+added, and a great part of them exterminated: according to the
+newspapers, the Mandans, Manitaries, Assiniboins, and Blackfeet have
+been swept away except a small remnant. The observation of the
+manners of the aborigines is undoubtedly that which must chiefly
+interest the foreign traveller in those countries, especially as the
+Anglo-Americans look down on them with a certain feeling of hatred.
+Hence we have hitherto met with little useful information respecting
+the Indians, except in the recent writings of Edward James, Long, Say,
+Schoolcraft, McKinney, Cass, Duponceau, Irving,[5] and a few others;
+and as good portraits of this race have hitherto been extremely rare,
+the faithful delineation contained in the portfolio of plates
+accompanying this work will be interesting to the friends of
+anthropology and ethnography.
+
+Several men, of great eminence in the learned world, have had the
+kindness to contribute to the publication. President Nees Von Esenbeck
+has undertaken the determination and description of the plants which
+I brought home;[6] Professor Goldfuss, of Bonn, that of some fossil
+shells; Professor G�ppert, of Breslau, that of the impression of
+fossil plants from Mauch Chunk;[7] Professors Valenciennes at Paris,
+and Wiegmann at Boston, the comparison of some zoological specimens
+with those in their cities;[8] and Lieut.-Col. W. Thorn, the
+construction of the map; for which obliging assistance I beg leave to
+offer to these gentlemen my sincere thanks.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Consult James's _Long's Expedition_, in our volume xiv, p. 75,
+note 41.--ED.
+
+[4] We reprint the account of Long's expedition in our volumes
+xiv-xvii.--ED.
+
+[5] For Edwin (not Edward) James and S. H. Long see preface to our
+volume xiv, pp. 10-13, 25, 26; for Thomas Say, _ibid._, p. 40, note 1;
+for Washington Irving as an authority on Western history, Gregg's
+_Commerce of the Prairies_, our volume xix, p. 161, note 2.
+
+Henry Rowe Schoolcraft (1793-1864) was a well-known traveller,
+ethnologist, and historian. Born in New York, he studied at both
+Middlebury and Union colleges. His first tour to the West was in
+1817-18, when he made a collection of minerals in Missouri and
+Arkansas. In 1820 he accompanied Cass's western expedition, and the
+following year acted as secretary of the Indian Commissioners at
+Chicago. In 1822 he was made Indian agent at Mackinac, where he
+resided for seventeen years, having married a descendant of a Chippewa
+chief. In 1837 he was promoted to superintendency of the Northern
+department, whence he resigned (1841) to devote himself to literary
+work. In 1847 Congress authorized the publication of a work upon
+Indian tribes, to which Schoolcraft devoted the latter portion of his
+life. It appeared as _Historical and Statistical Information
+respecting the History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian Tribes
+of the United States_ (Philadelphia, 1851-57). Schoolcraft belonged to
+many learned and historical societies, received a medal from the
+French Institute, and was in his day the chief authority on American
+Indians. Besides the work already cited, he published much, chief of
+which is _Personal Memoirs_ (Philadelphia, 1851); _Summary Narrative
+of an Exploratory Expedition to the Source of the Mississippi River in
+1820, resumed and completed by the Discovery of its Origin in Itasca
+Lake in 1832_ (Philadelphia, 1855).
+
+Thomas Lorraine McKenney (1785-1859) was superintendent of trade with
+the Indian tribes, 1816-24. In the latter year he was made head of the
+bureau of Indian affairs in the war department, also serving
+frequently as treaty commissioner. The work to which reference is here
+made, is _Sketches of a Tour to the Lakes_ (Baltimore, 1827).
+
+Lewis Cass (1782-1866) had unusual opportunities for contact with the
+tribesmen. After taking a prominent part in the War of 1812-15, he was
+for eighteen years governor of Michigan Territory. His contributions
+to Indian bibliography were a series of articles published in the
+_North American Review_, xxvi-xxx (1828-30).
+
+Peter Stephen Duponceau (1760-1844) was a Frenchman who came to
+America during the Revolution. Settling at Philadelphia, he became a
+member of the American Philosophical Society, and contributed to its
+_Transactions_ several articles on the structure and grammar of Indian
+languages.--ED.
+
+[6] Christian Gottfried Nees von Esenbeck (1776-1858), a famous
+botanist and physician. He first engaged in the practice of medicine,
+but in 1818 went to Erlangen as professor of botany, the next year
+being called to Bonn, then being professor at Breslau (1831-52). The
+number of his published works is considerable.--ED.
+
+[7] Georg August Goldfuss (1782-1848) was born at Bayreuth, and became
+privatdocent at Erlangen, then professor of zo�logy and mineralogy at
+Bonn and director of the zo�logical museum.
+
+Robert G�ppert (1800-1884) was a botanist and pal�ontologist. First
+studying medicine at Breslau and Berlin, he was professor of botany in
+the university at the former place (1831-39). In 1852 he was chosen
+director of the botanical gardens at Breslau, where he remained until
+his death.--ED.
+
+[8] Achille Valenciennes (1794-1864) was a French zo�logist, a friend
+and fellow-worker with Cuvier, and director of the Paris zo�logical
+museum.
+
+Arend Friedrich August Wiegmann (1802-41) was for a time professor of
+zo�logy at Berlin. He founded (1835) _Archivs fur Naturgeschichte_.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+The author, in his Preface, gives so full an account of the objects
+and results of his travels in the interior of North America, that it
+would have been unnecessary for me to prefix any observations of my
+own, were it not for some circumstances, connected with the
+translation, which seem to require explanation.
+
+The prospectus of the German original announced that the work would
+consist of two large quarto volumes, accompanied by a portfolio of
+above eighty beautifully coloured copper-plates, executed by eminent
+artists at Paris, from the original drawings. Some specimens of the
+plates having been brought to London, were so much admired by many
+competent judges, that Messrs. Ackermann were induced to agree with
+the Paris publisher for a limited number of copies of the plates; and
+as it might justly be presumed that the English purchasers would be
+desirous of having the narrative of the travels, it was resolved to
+publish a translation compressed into a single volume. By selecting,
+however, a page of a large size, the translator has been able to
+retain all the most interesting parts, omitting only minute details of
+the measurements of animals, &c. All the chapters illustrative of the
+manners, customs, traditions, and superstitions of the Indians are
+given without abridgment, and these, as the author justly observes,
+are by far the most attractive and valuable portions of the work. The
+papers in the Appendix, giving an account of the plants collected, are
+also inserted entire, and have been kindly revised by my friend Sir
+William Hooker.[9]
+
+The principal omission is that of the very extensive vocabularies of
+the languages of the different Indian tribes.[10] They are written so
+as to represent the pronunciation in German, and have, in numerous
+instances, special directions, as thus: kontschue (_on_ as in French,
+_schue_, short and quick, _e_�). It appeared to be a hopeless and
+unprofitable task to rewrite these vocabularies, and to represent the
+true pronunciation in English. Those who are curious in such matters
+will find many specimens in Mr. Catlin's interesting work.[11]
+
+The numerous Indian proper names are, of course, written in the
+original as pronounced in German. It has been thought best to leave
+them unchanged, merely requesting the reader to observe, in general,
+that the consonants are pronounced as in English; only that _ch_ is
+guttural, as in the Scotch word _loch_; that _sch_ is pronounced _sh_,
+and that the vowels have the same sound as in French, _ah_, _a_, _ee_,
+_o_, _oo_.
+
+The author alludes, in his Preface, to the recent fearful ravages
+which have been caused among the Indian races by the small-pox. The
+origin and extent of these ravages will be seen from the following
+very affecting letter on the subject:
+
+   [pg. ix]"NEW ORLEANS, _June 6, 1838_.--The southern parts of the
+   United States, particularly Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana, are
+   as healthy as can be wished; there has been no appearance of the
+   yellow fever, and even at the Havannah only a few isolated cases
+   have occurred. During the autumn, winter, and spring, the
+   small-pox has carried off many victims among the whites, and
+   thousands of the Indians; but it has now wholly disappeared in
+   the territory of the Union, in consequence of a general
+   vaccination of persons of all ages. On the other hand, we have,
+   from the trading posts on the western frontier of the Missouri,
+   the most frightful accounts of the ravages of the small-pox
+   among the Indians. The destroying angel has visited the
+   unfortunate sons of the wilderness with terrors never before
+   known, and has converted the extensive hunting grounds, as well
+   as the peaceful settlements of those tribes, into desolate and
+   boundless cemeteries. The number of the victims within a few
+   months is estimated at 30,000, and the pestilence is still
+   spreading. The warlike spirit which but lately animated the
+   several Indian tribes, and but a few months ago gave reason to
+   apprehend the breaking-out of a sanguinary war, is broken. The
+   mighty warriors are now the prey of the greedy wolves of the
+   prairie, and the few survivors, in mute despair, throw
+   themselves on the pity of the Whites, who, however, can do but
+   little to help them. The vast preparations for the protection of
+   the western frontier are superfluous: another arm has undertaken
+   the defence of the white inhabitants of the frontier; and the
+   funeral torch, that lights the red man to his dreary grave, has
+   become the auspicious star of the advancing settler, and of the
+   roving trader of the white race.
+
+   "The small-pox was communicated to the Indians by a person who
+   was on board the steam-boat which went, last summer, up to the
+   mouth of the Yellow Stone, to convey both the government
+   presents for the Indians, and the goods for the barter trade of
+   the fur dealers.[12] The disorder communicated itself to several
+   of the crew of the steam-boat. The officers gave notice of it to
+   the Indians, and exerted themselves to the utmost to prevent any
+   intercourse between them and the vessel; but this was a vain
+   attempt; for the Indians knew that presents and goods for barter
+   were come for them, and it would have been impossible to drive
+   them away from the fort without having recourse to arms. Two
+   days before the arrival of the steam-boat, an express had been
+   received at the trading fort, 2000 miles west of St. Louis, with
+   the melancholy news of the breaking-out of the small-pox on
+   board; this was immediately communicated to the Indians, with
+   the most urgent entreaties to keep at a distance; but this was
+   as good as preaching to the winds. The survivors now lament
+   their disobedience, and are as submissive as the poor dogs which
+   look in vain in the prairie for the footsteps of their masters.
+   The miserable remnants of the Indians implore us not to abandon
+   them in their misfortune, and promise, if we will take pity on
+   them, never more to disobey our commands.
+
+   "The disease first broke out about the 15th of June, 1837, in
+   the village of the Mandans, a few miles below the American fort,
+   Leavenworth, from which it spread, in all directions, with
+   unexampled fury.[13] The character of the disease was as
+   appalling as the rapidity of the propagation. Among the remotest
+   tribes of the Assiniboins from fifty to one hundred died daily.
+   The patient, when first seized, complains of dreadful pains in
+   the head and back, and in a few hours he is dead: the body
+   immediately turns black, and swells to thrice its natural size.
+   In vain were hospitals fitted up in Fort Union,[14] and the
+   whole stock of medicines exhausted. For many weeks together our
+   workmen did nothing but collect the dead bodies and bury them in
+   large pits; but since the ground is frozen we are obliged to
+   throw them into the river. The ravages of the disorder were the
+   most frightful among the Mandans, where it first broke out. That
+   once powerful tribe, which, by accumulated disasters, had
+   already been reduced to 1500 souls, was exterminated, with the
+   exception of thirty persons. Their neighbours, the Bigbellied
+   Indians, and the Ricarees, were out on a hunting excursion at
+   the time of the breaking-out of the disorder, so that it did not
+   reach them till a month later; yet half the tribe was already
+   destroyed on the 1st of October, and the disease continued to
+   spread. Very few of those who were attacked recovered their
+   health; but when they saw all their relations buried, and the
+   pestilence still raging with unabated fury among the remainder
+   of their countrymen, life became a burden to them, and they put
+   an end to their wretched existence, either with their knives and
+   muskets, or by precipitating themselves from the summit of the
+   rock near their settlement. The prairie all around is a vast
+   field of death, covered with unburied corpses, and spreading,
+   for miles, pestilence and infection. The Bigbellied Indians and
+   the Ricarees, lately amounting to 4000 souls, were reduced to
+   less than the half. The Assiniboins, 9000 in number, roaming
+   over a hunting territory to the north of the Missouri, as far as
+   the trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company, are, in the
+   literal sense of the expression, nearly exterminated. They, as
+   well as the Crows and Blackfeet, endeavoured to fly in all
+   directions, but the disease everywhere pursued them. At last
+   every feeling of mutual compassion and tenderness seems to have
+   disappeared. Every one avoided the others. Women and children
+   wandered about in the prairie seeking [pg. x] for a scanty
+   subsistence. The accounts of the situation of the Blackfeet are
+   awful. The inmates of above 1000 of their tents are already
+   swept away. They are the bravest and the most crafty of all the
+   Indians, dangerous and implacable to their enemies, but faithful
+   and kind to their friends. But very lately we seriously
+   apprehended that a terrible war with them was at hand, and that
+   they would unite the whole of their remaining strength against
+   the Whites. Every day brought accounts of new armaments, and of
+   a loudly expressed spirit of vengeance towards the Whites: but
+   the small-pox cast them down, the brave as well as the feeble;
+   and those who were once seized by this infection never
+   recovered. It is affirmed that several bands of warriors, who
+   were on their march to attack the fort, all perished by the way,
+   so that not one survived to convey the intelligence to their
+   tribe. Thus, in the course of a few weeks, their strength and
+   their courage were broken, and nothing was to be heard but the
+   frightful wailings of death in the camp. Every thought of war
+   was dispelled, and the few that are left are as humble as
+   famished dogs. No language can picture the scene of desolation
+   which the country presents. In whatever direction we go, we see
+   nothing but melancholy wrecks of human life. The tents are still
+   standing on every hill, but no rising smoke announces the
+   presence of human beings, and no sounds but the croaking of the
+   raven and the howling of the wolf interrupt the fearful silence.
+   The above accounts do not complete the terrible intelligence
+   which we receive. There is scarcely a doubt that the pestilence
+   will spread to the tribes in and beyond the Rocky Mountains, as
+   well as to the Indians in the direction of Santa F� and Mexico.
+   It seems to be irrevocably written in the book of fate, that the
+   race of red men shall be wholly extirpated in the land in which
+   they ruled the undisputed masters, till the rapacity of the
+   Whites brought to their shores the murderous fire-arms, the
+   enervating ardent spirits, and the all-destructive pestilence of
+   the small-pox. According to the most recent accounts, the
+   number of the Indians who have been swept away by the small-pox,
+   on the western frontier of the United States, amounts to more
+   than 60,000."[15]
+
+The general correctness of the melancholy details given in the above
+letter has been confirmed to me by several travellers who have visited
+these nations since they were desolated by this awful epidemic. The
+almost total extinction of these tribes greatly enhances the value and
+importance of the full and interesting particulars imparted by his
+Highness.
+
+     H. EVANS LLOYD.[16]
+
+     CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE,
+     May 1st, 1843.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Sir William Jackson Hooker (1785-1865) was early devoted to the
+study of natural history, making scientific journeys to Scotland in
+1806 and to Iceland in 1809. Later (1814), Hooker prosecuted a nine
+months' botanical tour on the continent of Europe. The following year
+he married and settled on his estate where he commenced an herbarium;
+from 1820 to 1841 he was regius professor of botany at Glasgow, being
+in 1836 knighted for eminent service to science. From 1841 till his
+death he was director of Kew Gardens, London. Hooker's interest in
+American scientific development was marked, and he dispatched many
+pupils on botanical tours to unknown parts of the new continent.--ED.
+
+[10] Reprinted in our volume xxiv.--ED.
+
+[11] George Catlin was born in Wilkesbarre, Pennsylvania, in 1796, of
+a New England family; his mother was a woman of artistic tastes, and
+had lived on the Indian border. Early in his career, Catlin heard much
+of the traditions of the aborigines, and thus was unconsciously
+prepared for his later life work. In 1817 he was sent to study law at
+Litchfield; returning to Pennsylvania two years later, he practiced in
+the rural districts until 1823, when he abandoned the law, and going
+to Philadelphia became an artist. For several years he was employed in
+painting miniatures and other portraits, going as far as Washington
+and Albany to execute orders. Having met at the former city a
+deputation of American Indians, Catlin was imbued with a desire to
+paint the portraits of these vanishing tribesmen, and in 1832 went
+west with this purpose in view. Eight years were spent in native
+lodges and fur-trade camps; then, with a wealth of material widely
+known as Catlin's Collection, he opened a museum--first in the United
+States (1837-39), then in London (1840-44). In 1845 he took his
+collection to Paris, where he remained until expelled by the
+Revolution of 1848. He thereupon re-opened his London museum, with
+additional material; but in 1852 became involved in debt, and his
+collection was shipped to the United States, where it remained
+neglected until 1879, when it was presented to the National Museum at
+Washington. Meanwhile Catlin visited South and Central America
+(1852-57), and resided thereafter in Europe, returning to the United
+States in 1871 only to die the following year at Jersey City. The work
+here referred to was _Letters and Notes on the Manners and Customs of
+the North American Indians_ (New York and London, 1841), more commonly
+cited by the title of later editions, _Notes of Eight Years' Travels_.
+In an appendix are several vocabularies of the Mandan, Blackfeet,
+Arikara, Sioux, and Tuscarora Indians.--ED.
+
+[12] This was the American Fur Company's steamer "St. Peter's," which
+carried the annual outfit and supplies to the Missouri River forts.
+Larpenteur, in charge at Fort Union, says that the vessel arrived June
+24, 1837. See Elliott Coues, _Forty Years a Fur-Trader on the Upper
+Missouri_ (New York, 1898), pp. 131-135.--ED.
+
+[13] For the Mandan see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, pp.
+113, 114, note 76. This should be Fort Clark, not Fort Leavenworth--an
+evident _lapsus calami_. Fort Clark, named for General William Clark,
+was an American fur-trade post built among the Mandan in 1831. See
+_post_, chapter xiii, for a detailed description.--ED.
+
+[14] For Fort Union see _post_, chapter xv.--ED.
+
+[15] Authorities differ as to the numbers perishing by the scourge of
+1837. H. M. Chittenden, _History of American Fur-Trade of the Far
+West_ (New York, 1902), p. 627, thinks fifteen thousand a large
+estimate.--ED.
+
+[16] Hannibal Evans Lloyd (1771-1847), a well-known linguist and
+translator, especially interested in works of travel and science. His
+father had been in the Seven Years' War, of which he wrote a history.
+Early in life the son studied German, and published a grammar and
+dictionary of that language, as well as an _Englisches Lesebuch_
+(Hamburg, 1832) for the use of German students. Lloyd lived for
+several years in Hamburg, and was present during the French invasion
+in 1813, of which he afterwards wrote an account. Among his other
+original works were lives of George IV of England, and Alexander I of
+Russia. His translations were from Swedish, German, and Italian,
+having Englished Katzebue's _Voyages_, Orlich's _Travels in India_,
+and Maximilian's Brazilian travels. Under the signature "H. E. L.,"
+Lloyd was a frequent contributor to the _London Literary Gazette_
+(1817-39). His translation of Maximilian's _Travels_ is clear, simple,
+and straightforward; the German original sustains small loss either of
+style or meaning, although the translator saw fit in many cases to
+abbreviate the prince's prolix descriptions, and to eliminate not only
+the exceedingly valuable linguistic material, but much other
+scientific matter.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, IN THE YEARS 1832, 1833,
+AND 1834
+
+[PART I]
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+VOYAGE TO BOSTON, STAY IN THAT CITY, AND JOURNEY TO NEW YORK, FROM MAY
+17TH TO JULY 9TH, 1832
+
+   Voyage--Boston--Festival of Independence--The American
+   inns--Charlestown--Monument on Bunker's Hill--Cambridge--New
+   England Museum--Pawtucket--Providence--Embark on board the
+   Boston--Voyage to New York--Fine view of that city.
+
+
+Voyages to North America are become everyday occurrences, and little
+more is to be related of them than that you met and saluted ships, had
+fine or stormy weather, and the like; here, therefore, we shall merely
+say that our party embarked at Helvoetsluys, on board an American
+ship, on the 17th of May, in the evening, and on the 24th saw Land's
+End, Cornwall, vanish in the misty distance, and bade farewell to
+Europe.
+
+Even when we were in latitude 48� 40�, and for several days
+afterwards, we had very unfavourable weather and violent storms, which
+were succeeded, on the 10th of June, by calms. On such days, shoals of
+dolphins crowded round the ship, and some men got on the bowsprit to
+throw the harpoon at them. The mate was at length so fortunate as to
+drive his harpoon through the body of one of these monsters of the
+deep, an event which was hailed with loud cheers. By the aid of
+several sailors the heavy prey was drawn upon deck. The animal, after
+it was wounded, made desperate efforts to free itself, and the harpoon
+had nearly given way, when the fish was secured by a rope thrown under
+the pectoral fins.
+
+[pg. 2] On the following day we had some of the flesh dressed as steaks,
+which we found to be very good; indeed, we preferred them to all other
+meat. I did not know, at that time, that I should soon find dog's
+flesh relishing! It is necessary to remove the blubber immediately;
+because, if this precaution be neglected, the flesh contracts a taste
+of train oil. The liver in particular is excellent.
+
+On the same day we were to the south of the bank of Newfoundland, and,
+therefore, steered in nearly a northerly direction. On the 19th we
+were in a thick fog. White and other petrels flew round us, with some
+gulls, and birds resembling sea swallows, with a forked tail. We
+sounded, but found no bottom. On the 20th, however, we were on the
+bank, where, at half-past eight in the morning, the temperature of the
+air was +5�� Reaumur, and that of the water, +2��. At two in the
+afternoon, with thick fog, the temperature of the air was +8�; that of
+the water, +4�. We then had a calm, and sounded in thirty-five
+fathoms. Large whales and flocks of sea-birds showed that we were on
+the bank. A hook and line being thrown out, we caught a fine cod, from
+whose stomach clams were taken, which served as a bait for other fish.
+We were on the middle of the lower point of the great bank, when large
+dolphins, quite black, called by the Americans blackfish, swam rapidly
+past in long lines, alternating with porpoises, which threw up white
+foam as they leaped and tumbled on the waves. A diver was shot while
+swimming, and flocks of black petrels hovered round us. A dead calm
+succeeding, a boat was put out to give chase to the latter. Fat was
+thrown out to entice the birds, and many of the little black petrel,
+(_Procellaria Pelagica_), were shot, and also some of the birds,
+called by Charles Bonaparte,[17] _Thalassidroma Wilsonii_, which very
+nearly resemble each other in colour, as well as in shape. A snow
+white gull (probably _Larus eburneus_) flew about the ship. On the
+26th of June, we had been just forty days at sea, and at noon were off
+the lower part of Sable Island bank, in fifty-five fathoms, but did
+not see the island itself. We steered towards Nova Scotia, but the
+wind soon forced us in a southerly direction. We had many indications
+of the vicinity of land, and from this time we proceeded more
+satisfactorily, till the 3rd of July, at noon, when, to the joy of
+all, we descried land. Cape Cod Bay lay to the south of us, about
+fifteen miles distant. It showed low sandhills, with dark bushes on
+them. About two o'clock we could distinguish a lighthouse of moderate
+height, with a wind-mill, and several other buildings. As the wind was
+unfavourable, we were obliged to tack often, in order to sail into the
+great bay of Massachusetts, which we did in the finest and most lovely
+weather. The cool of the evening had succeeded the heat of the day;
+the dark blue mirror of the sea shone around us, moved only by a
+gentle breeze, while a few white or dark brown sails hastened to the
+coast, which was already veiled in the evening mist.
+
+Sublime repose prevailed in this extensive and grand scene, our ship
+alone was in a state of activity. Various preparations were made for
+the approaching landing, while we Europeans looked eagerly at the
+distance. I had hoped in vain for a sight of the famous sea serpent;
+it [pg. 3] would not shew itself. I had, in the sequel, opportunities to
+speak with several American naturalists on the subject, but they all
+looked upon the story as a fable.
+
+The moon rose in the utmost splendour, and lighted up the unagitated
+surface of the sea, and the fishing-boats which lay at anchor. Before
+midnight we saw Boston lighthouse, and soon afterwards several other
+such lights on the coast, which are a most welcome sight, and increase
+the impatience of the stranger in a remote quarter of the globe.
+
+The following day (4th of July), on which I landed for the second time
+in the New World, was the anniversary of the day on which America
+proclaimed its independence. Early in the morning, the salutes of
+artillery resounded from the coasts, which we now saw clearly before
+us. In the centre, in the direction of the city of Boston, was the
+white lighthouse, with its black roof, on a small rocky island,[18]
+and around it several little picturesque islands, partly of white
+sand, with plots of grass; partly rocks, which adorn the beautiful
+bay. At a distance we saw some low mountains, the coast covered with
+numerous villages, obscured by the smoke of the gunpowder, and numbers
+of ships and boats sailing in every direction, all adorned with gay
+flags in honour of the day. We passed in succession several islands,
+the lighthouse, the telegraph, and drew nearer and nearer to the coast
+of the Continent, diversified with gentle eminences covered with corn,
+or beautifully green as in England: and here and there, in the bays
+and inlets, adorned with lofty trees. These coasts, with the numerous
+white buildings of the towns and villages, presented a most charming
+scene in the splendour of the morning sun. At length the long-expected
+pilot came on board, and in the bay, on our right, we saw the city of
+Boston, and many steam-boats before it. The sea had no longer the blue
+colour, but the green tinge which it has on all coasts, and was
+covered with medus�, and the leaves of the sea grass, which grows on
+these shores. The heat was very great, 18� in the shade, by Reaumur's
+thermometer, on board the ship, when we cast anchor at India Wharf,
+Boston, on the forty-eighth day of our voyage. The temperature in this
+oblong basin, which is surrounded with large magazines of naval
+stores, was by no means agreeable at the moment of our arrival; we,
+therefore, left the ship as soon as possible, and repaired to the
+Commercial Coffee House, where we took up our quarters.
+
+Boston, an extensive city, with above 80,000 inhabitants,[19] reminded
+me, at first sight, of one of the old English towns; but various
+differences soon appeared. The streets are partly long and broad,
+partly narrow and irregular, with good flag pavement for foot
+passengers; the buildings are of brick or stone; but in a great
+portion of the old town the houses are of wood; the roofs are, for the
+most part, covered with shingles; the chimneys resemble those in
+England, but do not seem to be so lofty; the dark colours of the
+buildings give the city, on the whole, a gloomy appearance. [pg. 4]
+There are many important buildings and churches, which have been
+described by numerous travellers. In the front of the houses there are
+frequently little plots of garden, next the street, in the English
+fashion, planted with tall, shady trees, and flowers. Strangers will
+immediately look for American plants, especially for those species of
+trees which are generally cultivated in Europe; but, instead of them,
+they will observe only European trees, such as Lombardy poplars,
+Babylonian willows, syringa hibiscus, chestnuts, elms, &c., and it was
+with much difficulty that I found some stems of the catalpa, which was
+just then on the point of flowering, and some other native trees.
+Besides the little grass plots, planted with flowers, in the front of
+the houses, there are, in Boston, many plantations and avenues of very
+tall and shady elms, which, like the same species in England, are
+remarkably vigorous and flourishing. Among these avenues, the
+principal is that called the _Commons_, where there were fireworks in
+the evening of the 4th of July.
+
+Washington-street is looked upon as the finest and longest street in
+Boston; its length is nearly equal to that of the whole city. Here, as
+in the first cities of Europe, there are numerous fine and elegant
+shops, with the most costly articles; and the productions of the West
+Indies. Cocoa-nuts, oranges, bananas, &c., are nowhere to be found so
+fresh, and in such perfection as in the seaports of North America. On
+account of the celebration of this day, most of the shops were closed;
+but then the entire population seemed to throng the streets, and the
+gay crowd was very interesting to strangers, as it was not difficult
+to catch the general features. Though a great part of the Americans
+have much of the English stamp, there are, however, some essential
+differences. The peculiar character of the English countenance seems
+to have disappeared in America, in the strange climate; the men are of
+a slenderer make, and of taller stature; a general expression of the
+physiognomy seems to be wanting. The women are elegant, and have
+handsome features, but frequently a paleness, which does not indicate
+a salubrious climate, or a healthy judicious way of living.[20] Straw
+hats, trimmed with black or green ribbons, were in general use. Cloth
+was much worn, and everything was according to the newest English and
+French fashions. Among the busy throng were a great number of negroes,
+who, in the Northern and Eastern States, have been made free. Not far
+from the public walks was a small narrow street, almost entirely
+inhabited by negroes and their hybrids. The stranger in Boston looks
+in vain for the original American race of the Indians. Instead of its
+former state of nature, this country now shows a mixture of all
+nations, which is rapidly proceeding in the unjustifiable expulsion
+and extirpation of the aborigines, which began on the arrival of the
+Europeans in the New World, and has unremittingly continued.
+
+After we had enjoyed a hasty view of the city, we returned to our inn,
+where we had an opportunity of making ourselves acquainted with many
+new customs, differing from those of Europe. It must be confessed that
+the arrangements in the large and much frequented inns of [pg. 5] the
+great towns in the United States, are, in many respects, inferior to
+those of Europe. The rooms are very small, and all have beds in them:
+parlours, that is, rooms without beds, must be hired separately. The
+hours for meals are fixed--three times in the day; and the signal is
+usually given, two or three times, by ringing a bell. In general, a
+number of persons habitually take their meals in these inns; they
+besiege the house before the appointed time arrives, and, when the
+signal is given, they rush tumultuously into the eating-room; every
+one strives to get before the other, and, for the most part, the crowd
+of guests is far too great, in proportion to the number of the black
+attendants. Then every one takes possession of the dish that he can
+first lay his hands on, and in ten minutes all is consumed; in laconic
+silence the company rise from table, put on their hats, and the busy
+gentlemen hasten away, whom you see all the day long posted before
+the inns, or at the fire-side in the lower rooms, smoking cigars and
+reading the colossal newspapers. The hat, which the Americans seldom
+lay aside, except in the company of the women, is always taken off at
+table, which is certainly no small exertion in this land of perfect
+liberty, as Captain Morrell expresses it.[21] Elegance of dress is far
+more common in America than in Europe; but then this is all that the
+gentleman in America cares about, when he has finished his mercantile
+business, read the newspaper, and performed his part in the government
+of the State. I have often been surprised at the crowd of idle
+gentlemen before and in the American inns, who spend the whole day in
+total inactivity; and these elegant loiterers are, in fact, a
+characteristic feature of these inns. Here, too, there is a peculiar
+arrangement, which many travellers have noticed, and which we do not
+meet with in ours--I mean the bar-room, where a man stationed behind
+the bar, mixes compounds, and sells all sorts of beverages, in which a
+quantity of ice and of freshly gathered peppermint leaves are
+employed. Very agreeable cooling liquors are here prepared, which the
+heat of the climate calls for. In the evening the European is
+surprised at being desired to pull off his shoes before a number of
+people in the bar-room, and to exchange them for slippers, which are
+piled up in large heaps. The attendance is, in general, indifferent.
+There are scarcely any white servants, or, at least, they are almost
+useless; all menial offices must be performed by blacks, who, though
+free people, are still held in contempt by the Americans, who so
+highly estimate the dignity of man, and form a rejected caste, like
+the Parias in India.
+
+At the approach of evening, on the 4th of July, the whole population
+of Boston was in motion; but the streets were soon entirely deserted,
+and all the inhabitants had collected in the promenade, called the
+Commons. The sight was highly interesting. An extensive piece of
+ground, covered with green sward, stretches in a gentle slope to the
+water, and is surrounded by avenues of lofty, shady elms. Numerous
+paths cross each other in the centre, and here there is a gigantic
+elm, with a wide-spreading crown, measuring from thirty to forty paces
+in diameter. We regretted that the great crowd of people rendered it
+impossible to approach this fine tree, on [pg. 6] this busy evening. All
+Boston, rich and poor, was here assembled, in the most elegant
+dresses. Groups were sitting, or lying in the grass; rows of tables
+and little stalls were set out, where there was a real oyster feast,
+in which the people indulged to an extent that rendered the appearance
+of the tables anything but inviting. As it grew dark, there was a very
+indifferent display of fireworks, on the eminence, in honour of the
+day, the expense of which was defrayed by subscription. Several
+companies of city militia had previously paraded the streets; they are
+all volunteers, who equip themselves, and that in a very superior
+manner; but their uniforms are very gay and motley, as may be
+expected, where every one is left to follow his own taste. Each
+company, or troop, had a different uniform--one red, another blue,
+and, in part, richly embroidered with gold. There were very few men in
+a company. It seemed very strange that the musicians, who preceded
+them, were, for the most, in plain clothes of all colours, with round
+hats. "The Yankee-doodle," the favourite popular song of the
+Americans, was heard in different directions; and it is much to the
+credit of this motley assemblage, that there was no impropriety of
+conduct or unseemly noise. The effect of the light on the mixed crowd
+of whites and negroes was very interesting, and we enjoyed the scene
+till the coolness and damp of the night air made us retire to our inn.
+
+On the following morning, the shops were opened, and Boston resumed
+its usual appearance of commercial activity. Our baggage was put on
+board a schooner bound to New York, to which city I wished to go by
+land. Our next excursion was to the monument on Bunker's Hill, from
+which there is the best view of the surrounding country.
+
+Early in the morning we got into our carriages, and drove rapidly
+through the streets, refreshed by the cool morning breeze, where many
+wagons were arriving with the productions of the environs. We noticed
+vehicles of various descriptions, with four or two wheels, often with
+an awning of linen, or leather, open at the sides, and drawn by two or
+four horses. The drivers, generally in a white summer dress, with
+straw hats, sit on a bear skin, which is here worth eight or ten
+dollars. On the causeway, out of the city, the dust was troublesome,
+but a number of water-carts (like those used in the streets of London)
+were already preparing to water the road.
+
+Boston is joined to the continent by a narrow tongue of land, at the
+two sides of which creeks, or bays run into the land. Over these
+creeks there are several long wooden bridges, made to draw up in the
+middle, one of which leads, in a north-west direction, to the
+neighbouring town of Charlestown; another, more to the south, to
+Cambridge, where there is a college, or university. All these places
+have been described by several travellers. We took the road through
+Charlestown, to the Navy Yard, close to which is the eminence on which
+the Bunker's Hill monument is erected. The hill is called Breed's
+Hill, and immediately beyond it is Bunker's Hill, where the English
+troops were posted during the battle fought in 1775. The Americans
+were repulsed, and lost their leader, who was a physician. The
+monument in memory of this action [pg. 7] has been begun on the
+foremost, or Breed's Hill. The granite (Quincy granite) employed in it
+is found in the neighbourhood, and is of a grey colour.
+
+It was intended, originally, that this monument should be 210 feet
+high; it is now meant to be only 180 feet high. What is already done
+is a pyramid between fifty and sixty feet in height, which was covered
+with a temporary wooden roof. Withinside, a convenient stone staircase
+leads to the top, and from the small windows in the roof, there is an
+incomparable view over the city of Boston, Charlestown, the two
+inlets, the long bridges, the Bay of Boston, with its diversified
+islands, and the ships with their white swelling sails, coming from,
+and bound to, all parts of the world. Looking into the country, there
+is an alternation of verdant hills, numerous villages, and dark woods;
+the whole forming a highly picturesque landscape. Cattle were grazing
+near the monument, on the green hill; a well-dressed boy was employed
+in milking the cows.[22]
+
+From Bunker's Hill we went to Cambridge, and had, on this road, the
+first sight of an American landscape. Meadows, partly covered with
+arundinaceous plants, corn-fields, and European fruit trees,
+alternated with small thickets and groves. The apples that grow here
+are said to be yellow, and not particularly good; they are chiefly
+used to make cider. On almost all these fruit trees we saw
+caterpillars' nests of extraordinary size, they being often a foot and
+more in diameter. The butterfly which produces them must be in vast
+numbers, and it is surprising that more care is not taken to destroy
+them. The road was bordered with trees, as is generally the case here;
+we observed _Celtis occidentalis_, Lombardy poplars, partly lopped,
+and not growing to any great height. The thickets consisted of oaks,
+with various deeply indented leaves, in general of a beautiful shining
+green; different kinds of walnut, ash, and elm, which always attain a
+great height here, and, where they stand free, the stems are clothed
+with thick boughs down to the ground. The low thickets were of a
+bright green, and in adjacent meadows, which were partly marshy, grew
+plants, much resembling those of Europe, such as _Ranunculus_,
+_Pyrethrum_, several with white flowers of the genus _Syngenesia_;
+both a white clover and a red clover, common with us, seemed to be
+generally cultivated, as well as potatoes, corn, and maize. This part
+of the country has, on the whole, the European character--like
+England, for instance--but it is even now more wooded, and pines of
+different kinds give a variety: the population, too, is distributed in
+a different manner. In one of the nearest thickets, a little songster
+(_Sylvia �stiva_), and some other birds, reminded me that I was not in
+Europe, but on the borders of the northern part of the New World, and
+the beautiful Icterus Baltimore flew to the higher thickets; and I
+very well distinguished its black and bright red plumage. These new
+objects gave [pg. 8] us great pleasure, and we only regretted that we
+could not immediately pursue them. On the summit of the gentle
+eminences we came to Cambridge College, which is very agreeably
+situated on a verdant lawn, shaded with trees, and surrounded by
+avenues of elms, Weymouth pines, maples, ash, planes, and other shady
+trees. The buildings stand separately; and in all the gardens of the
+neat habitations, we observed, in general, European plants--the rose,
+syringa, hibiscus, and but few American plants, of which the trumpet
+tree was not then in blossom. My visit might have been very
+interesting if I had known that Mr. Nuttal,[23] one of the most active
+naturalists and travellers in North America, held an office in this
+college.
+
+On our return to Boston, we visited many of the curiosities of the
+city, which are enumerated in various works. Among them I mention only
+the New England Museum,[24] as in part, at least, an institution for
+natural history, but where the expectation of the stranger is
+grievously disappointed. These museums, as they are styled, in all the
+larger cities of the United States, except, perhaps, the Peale Museum,
+at Philadelphia, are an accumulation of all sorts of curiosities, the
+selection of which is most extraordinary. Here we find specimens of
+natural history; stiff, awkward, wax figures; mathematical and other
+instruments, models, bad paintings and engravings, caricatures; nay,
+even the little prints out of our journals of the fashions, &c., hung
+up without any order. Among the animals there are some interesting
+specimens, but without any ticket or further direction. This
+collection was placed in several stories of a lofty house, in narrow
+passages, rooms, and closets, connected by many flights of steps; and
+to attract the public, a man played on the harpsichord during our
+visit--a concert which could have no great charms for us.
+
+Boston, however, has much that is worthy of notice, and numerous
+excellent institutions, respecting which the many descriptive works
+may be consulted, which treat on the subject more in detail than a
+passing traveller can do. As my time was limited, I took places in a
+stage-coach that was to set out at noon for Providence, from Bunker's
+coach-office, at the Marlborough hotel. The establishment of
+stage-coaches, and the mode of travelling in this country, have been
+accurately described by Duke Bernhard of Saxe Weimar;[25] I therefore
+merely say, that we went in a commodious stage, with nine seats
+inside, and four good horses, which carried us at a rapid pace from
+Boston to New Providence, forty-one miles distant, where we embarked
+for New York.
+
+The causeway was a good, solid, broad road, paved in some places, and
+very dusty at this dry season; it led over low hills and plains. Near
+the city there is a great number of pretty, and some elegant country
+houses; and as they became less numerous, they were succeeded by the
+houses of the farmers and planters, which are spread over the whole
+country. All these farm-houses are slightly built, boarded, and roofed
+with shingles; often grey, of the natural colour of the wood; but many
+of those belonging to the richer class are neatly painted, and
+variously ornamented. The walls, even of large buildings of this kind,
+are extremely thin, and one would think they [pg. 9] must be too slight
+for the cold winters of this country. It seems quite inconceivable
+that, throughout the United States, you find only open fireplaces; and
+very rarely good stoves, against which the Americans are prejudiced,
+because they are not aware of their great superiority. The business of
+the occupant is painted on the house in large letters, as in England
+and France.
+
+The road by which we travelled was often bounded by hedges, or by
+walls of blocks of granite, or other kinds of stone, on which
+plantain, elder, stagshorn, sumach, &c., were growing. In the low
+marshy meadows were willows, a kind of reed mace, cotton grass,
+rushes, and, in the water, adder's tongue. Near the road, the hills,
+which here and there gradually rise to a great elevation, are covered
+with shrubs and trees, among which we noticed some firs, mixed with
+the other trees.
+
+Juniper trees, from fifteen to twenty feet high, grew in all these
+woods, partly as underwood. In the low grounds, near the road, we
+observed luxuriant tufts of various kinds of oak, walnut trees--some
+with large shining leaves, chestnuts, now in blossom, and many other
+kinds of trees cultivated in European gardens. Wild vines, with the
+under side of the leaves whitish, twine round many of the bushes; but,
+in these northern parts, they do not attain a great height. These
+thickets alternate with open tracts of land, where the peasants,
+tanned by the powerful American sun, wearing large straw hats, were
+busily employed in making hay.
+
+However small and poor the dwellings, we still saw at the windows, and
+before the doors, the women, most elegantly and fashionably dressed,
+engaged in their household employments. In this land of freedom,
+nobody, of course, will allow his neighbour to have an advantage over
+him; hence we often see silk gowns, and the newest fashions of all
+kinds, in laughable contrast with the poor little habitations. Small
+country carts pass the traveller, in which, beside the owner, who
+drives, sits a country lady, handsomely attired, who looks like a copy
+of some _journal des modes_. The dress of the countrymen is, in
+general, not so fine, but is, in some degree, according to the man's
+circumstances.
+
+We were much pleased with some thick forests of oak, with beautiful
+glossy (often deeply indented) leaves, of a great variety of forms.
+Forests, consisting wholly of the Weymouth pine, alternated with the
+oak. The trunks were large, but the height of the tree was not great
+in proportion. Among them there was always a number of dead trees;
+others had a quantity of bearded moss hanging on them; in a word,
+though so near to the habitations of man, and in a cultivated country,
+they had more of the wild character of unreclaimed nature than our
+European forests. In many places there were openings into dark
+forests, to a great distance; and, now and then, into lovely valleys,
+with a lake or a river, where the white buildings had a very
+picturesque appearance, contrasted with the dark woods and the green
+meadows. Mr. Bodmer, however, was not satisfied with all these
+landscapes: he had expected to find, at once, in America, forms
+differing from those of Europe; but these must be looked for under
+another zone; for, in [pg. 10] North America, the general character of
+the vegetation resembles that of Europe. In some parts, we remarked in
+the meadows large stones, something like those in Westphalia, or in
+the Westerwald, in Germany.
+
+We changed horses at three places, at one of which we had dinner,
+which, as in England, was ready when the passengers arrived. The
+regulations here have an advantage over those in most parts of Europe,
+inasmuch as fees are nowhere given, so that you cannot be molested by
+the importunity of the driver: on the other hand, the coachman dines
+at the same table as the passengers. You are, however, pretty secure
+against the conversation of unpolished people, because the Americans
+are usually mute at table.
+
+Towards evening we reached Pawtucket, a neat town on the river of the
+same name, in the state of Massachusetts. The place has manufactures
+of various kinds, and is animated by trade and industry. The river
+empties itself into Narraganset bay, and is said to have falls of
+fifty feet. We soon travelled the few miles from this place to
+Providence. The evening being fine, the journey was very pleasant: the
+road was full of stages, cabriolets, farmers' wagons, and smart
+country ladies, whose veils on their large fashionable hats waved in
+the wind; they were generally seated in little chaise carts, the seats
+of which were covered with bear skins.
+
+At Providence, which we reached before night, we put up at Franklin
+House, a respectable inn. A crowd of idle gentlemen and other curious
+persons stared at us, and laughed in our faces, when they found, by
+our pronunciation, that we were foreigners. We had to pass some days
+here, waiting for the return of a steam-boat from New York; we
+therefore employed this interval in exploring the town and
+neighbourhood.
+
+Providence is a busy town, the capital of the state of Rhode Island,
+and situated on an arm of the sea. It is built partly on sandy hills,
+partly on the low ground next the sea, has some good new streets, and
+a brisk trade, as appears from the many ships at anchor. There is no
+want of handsome shops, and several public buildings deserve notice;
+such as twelve churches, several colleges, and other public
+institutions, which I forbear to enumerate. In the churches the
+singular style of the architecture calls for censure:--they are of
+brick, with steeples variously ornamented, but often painted with
+glaring colours; for instance, the lower part reddish brown, with the
+frames of the windows and of the doors white; the upper part bright
+yellow with white. There is a considerable degree of luxury at
+Providence. The women appear in the streets in the most expensive
+dresses; and the country ladies (farmers' wives), whom I have so often
+mentioned, dressed in silk, and wearing large straw bonnets and veils,
+bring milk to market in little carts. This love of finery is quite a
+characteristic trait in the American people; but it is, at the same
+time, an indication of prosperity; for it is true that, in this
+country, there are neither poor nor beggars; and if you see people
+doing nothing, they are generally new comers from Europe. Negroes and
+their coloured descendants are more numerous here than in Boston and
+the northern parts.
+
+[pg. 11] The next day was Sunday, in the observance of which the
+Americans are very scrupulous. All the people, with their books under
+their arms, proceeded to the churches, the bells of which were very
+slowly tolled. The streets were quite still on this day, and all the
+shops closed; but, then, numerous carriages and cabriolets, filled
+with finely-dressed people, were in motion. We strolled about the
+surrounding country, which, in general, has a dead and rather sterile
+appearance. Here, too, we saw, almost exclusively, European trees and
+flowers in the gardens; there were, however, some peculiar to the
+country, among which the magnolia was now in blossom.
+
+Intelligence had been received from New York that the cholera had
+broken out there, and that numbers of the inhabitants were leaving the
+city. On the arrival of the Boston steam-boat, the Captain confirmed
+this unwelcome news, which, however, did not deter us from embarking
+in this fine vessel for New York. On the 8th of July, in the
+afternoon, we went on board the steam-boat, which had above 100
+passengers. The Boston was a large, handsome vessel, about the size of
+a frigate. It had three decks; in the lower part was the large dining
+and sleeping room, where above 100 persons were very well provided
+for. On the middle deck there was a cabin for the ladies, with
+twenty-four beds. The numerous attendants were negroes and mulattoes
+of both sexes, all free people. The vessel had two low-pressure
+engines, which are thought to be less dangerous than the high-pressure
+engines, though the Americans affirm the contrary. On the upper deck
+was a pavilion, with glass windows, in which, when the weather was
+unfavourable, the company could sit and enjoy the prospect.
+
+When all the passengers were on board, one of the engines was set to
+work, and when we got further from shore, the other also. The low,
+sandy coast, partly covered with trees, where towns alternated with
+forests, quickly disappeared. The sky was dark and cloudy, and a cool,
+fresh breeze blew. We reached the strongly fortified town of Newport,
+where many small vessels lay at anchor. The place is distinguished by
+three forts, and other fortifications, and a lighthouse. When twilight
+set in we were already in sight of the open sea, which, however,
+remained visible for a short time only, because we steered to the
+right, into the channel between the continent and Long Island.
+
+On the morning of the 9th of July, the sky was gloomy, and the sea
+much agitated. On our left we had the coast of Long Island, which, in
+general, is not high, but has some more elevated parts, with an
+alternation of sand, bushes, and brushwood. Some very picturesque and
+diversified inlets run into the land. The channel becomes gradually
+narrower, and the beauty of the landscape increases in the same
+proportion. One narrow place is called Hellgate: there are here many
+rocky islets covered with sumach bushes (_Rhus typhinum_). At length,
+turning round a point of the continent, a new and most picturesque
+scene presented itself. We were in what is called the East River, an
+arm of the sea, open towards New York, which is connected with the
+Hudson or North River, one of the most beautiful rivers in North
+America. At the conflux [pg. 12] of both, lies the city. The banks of
+the East River are like an English park, shaded by beautiful copses
+and groups of lofty trees: the ground was clothed with the brightest
+and most luxuriant verdure, with tall tulip trees, planes, Babylonian
+willows, Lombardy poplars, and many others, alternating with green
+meadows, where there are neat, and often elegant country-houses; and
+the eye is charmed by many fine prospects and a great diversity of
+scenery. Passing the Navy Yard, which is situated on a point of land,
+the great city of New York, with its innumerable masts, lies before
+you. As you approach and enter the broad and extensive piece of water
+formed by the conflux of the East and North Rivers, you see the whole
+mass of houses, with countless ships, which line both the banks to a
+considerable distance, with a forest of masts, to which few other
+cities can present a parallel. The steamer landed us at a spot where,
+notwithstanding the heavy rain, there was a great crowd of people
+collected. Porters, black workmen, and coachmen in abundance, with
+loud cries, and much importunity, offered their services; and we
+immediately proceeded to the American Hotel, a considerable inn, in
+one of the handsomest squares in the city.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] Charles Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino and Musignano
+(1803-1857), a noted ornithologist, was the eldest son of Lucien,
+brother of the great Napoleon. In 1822 he married Joseph Bonaparte's
+daughter, came to the United States, and until 1828 resided with his
+father-in-law, near Philadelphia, making a careful study of the birds
+of that locality. Returning to Italy, he headed the republican forces
+at Rome in the Revolution of 1848, and from 1854 until his death,
+three years later, was director of the Jardin des Plantes, at Paris.
+In the United States, Bonaparte published a supplement to Wilson's
+_Ornithology_, entitled _American Ornithology, or History of the Birds
+of the United States_ (4 volumes, Philadelphia, 1825-33), containing
+more than a hundred species which he had discovered. He wrote numerous
+articles for scientific journals both in this country and Europe.--ED.
+
+[18] See Plate 1, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[19] According to the census of 1830, Boston had 61,392 souls, and
+with Charlestown, Roxbury, and Cambridge, about 80,000.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[20] Vide Mrs. Trollope's "Domestic Manners of the Americans," page 106,
+where the authoress is probably right in many points.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 44, note
+24.
+
+[21] Captain Benjamin Morrell was born on Long Island (1795), entered
+the service of a privateer during the War of 1812-15, was captured by
+the British and held in prison until the declaration of peace. After
+his release he was made captain of a whaling vessel, and in 1832
+published a book of travels entitled, _A Narrative of Four Voyages to
+the South Sea, North and South Pacific Ocean, Chinese Sea, Ethiopic
+and Southern Atlantic Ocean, Indian and Arctic Oceans, Comprising
+Critical Surveys of Coasts and Islands with Sailing Directions_ (New
+York). A critical analysis of the book is given in _American Quarterly
+Review_, xiii, pp. 314 ff.--ED.
+
+[22] The cattle in this part of the country are, in general, large and
+handsome: there are oxen with immense horns, almost as in the
+_Campagna di Roma_, in Italy; and they are also large and fat. Their
+colour is generally brown, as in Germany, but for the most part, a
+very shining yellowish, or reddish brown, often spotted with white.
+The horns of many are turned rather forwards, and round balls are just
+on their tips, that they may not gore with them.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[23] See preface to Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii.--ED.
+
+[24] E. A. Greenwood having (1825) purchased the Columbian Museum,
+founded in Boston in 1795 by Daniel Bowen, erected a building on Court
+Street between Brattle and Cornhill, and started the New England
+Museum. The latter was purchased by Moses Kimball (1839), who seven
+years later constructed the Boston Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts
+building on Tremont Street, near Court, at a cost of a quarter of a
+million dollars. The stock-company theatre operated in connection with
+this institution was long regarded as the best in Boston.--ED.
+
+[25] For the work of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in
+our volume xxi, p. 71, note 47.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+STAY IN NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, AND BORDENTOWN, FROM 9TH TO 16TH JULY
+
+   New York--Bloomingdale--Hoboken--New
+   Brunswick--Trenton--Bordentown--Philadelphia--Fair Mount, with
+   the water-works--Stay at Bordentown--Park of the Count de
+   Survilliers--Excursions in the forests--Return to Philadelphia.
+
+
+New York is but little inferior to the capital cities of Europe, with
+the exception of London and Paris. It has, at present, 220,000
+inhabitants, and its commerce is so extensive, animated, and active,
+that, in this respect, it is scarcely surpassed by any. There are so
+many descriptions of this great city, that to say much on the subject
+would be merely repetition. The first impression that it made on me
+was very striking, on account of the beauty of its situation. In the
+interior the style of building resembles that of many English cities.
+It has one remarkably fine street, called the Broadway, which
+traverses its whole length; other parts are old, and not so handsome.
+In the Broadway, which is the favourite resort of the fashionable
+world, is an uninterrupted line of shops, but little inferior to those
+of London and Paris. The city is extremely animated, and people of all
+nations carry on business here. We were assured that the population
+had been diminished, in a few days, by the emigration of 20,000 of the
+inhabitants, who had fled to other towns for fear of the cholera.[26]
+It is well known that this lamentable disease had been very fatal in
+Canada, and had now penetrated into the Northern States of the Union:
+it was raging in Albany, on the Hudson, at Detroit, and on the great
+lakes, so that it seemed as if it would defeat our project of
+beginning our journey to the interior by that route. This had been my
+plan, in which the recommendations of our worthy countryman, Mr.
+Astor,[27] would have been of great service, as he is the founder and
+head of the American Fur Company, which has spread its trading
+stations over the whole of the interior of North America. I formed
+numerous interesting acquaintances, in a short time, in New York.
+Several estimable fellow-countrymen, Messrs. Gebhard and Schuchart,
+and Mr. Iselin, did their utmost to afford us their counsel and
+assistance. Mr. Schmidt, the Prussian consul, contributed not a little
+to make our stay in this city agreeable; and so did Mr. Meier and
+other of our German friends. Mr. Schmidt has a country-house at
+Bloomingdale, [pg. 14] where we passed some very pleasant days in the
+circle of his amiable family. Mrs. Schmidt, an American lady, had
+visited Europe and travelled in Germany, and remembered, with
+pleasure, the banks of the Rhine.
+
+The house at which Mr. Schmidt resides in the summer, is charmingly
+situated on the banks of that picturesque river, the Hudson, seven
+miles from the town. The pretty dwelling-house, with a veranda all
+round, covered with passion flowers, honeysuckles, the red trumpet
+flower, and other beautiful climbing plants, stands on a verdant lawn,
+shaded by lofty trees, among which we observed the finest kinds of
+this country, the trunks of which were slender, and straight as
+pillars. The park extends to the Hudson, where the tall sassafras,
+tulip, oak, walnut, and other trees, protected us by their shade;
+while the large steam-boats, rapidly passing on the bright surface of
+the Hudson, had a very picturesque effect. Mr. Schmidt had the
+kindness to afford us an admirable view of what is called the island
+of New York. Near Bloomingdale is a large and very well conducted
+lunatic asylum, from the lofty roof of which we enjoyed an
+inexpressibly beautiful, extensive, and interesting prospect of the
+whole country. From this spot we overlooked the East and North Rivers,
+the broad bend of the latter, and its high banks towards Albany; to
+the north, dark forests, with detached dwellings and country seats;
+and, in all directions, luxuriant green thickets, towns, villages, and
+handsome country-houses. At our feet, contrasting with that rich and
+noble view, full of variety and life, we looked down on the buildings
+and court-yards of the hospital, in which we could observe the
+patients; while, in another enclosed space, Virginian deer were
+sporting and playing. This asylum is a very excellent establishment,
+and contains a great number of patients: the physician resides in the
+house, and was so good as to show us over it. New York has many such
+useful institutions,--hospitals, poorhouses, and houses of correction,
+in which latter the young, who may still be reclaimed, are not mixed
+with the old, hardened offenders, but are kept apart. There is an
+asylum for the deaf and dumb, &c.
+
+Our returning from Bloomingdale, in the evening, was extremely
+agreeable, the weather being delightful. In the dark thickets and
+woods were swarms of fire-flies; and from the marshes and pools came
+the croakings of the frogs, with which we were not yet familiar; but
+we did not hear that of the celebrated bull-frog.
+
+The most beautiful spots and environs of New York are indebted for the
+attraction of their views, to the variety of the waters surrounding
+the city: thus, for instance, at the end of the Broadway, is the
+Castle Garden, formerly a circular fort, the walls of which are
+converted into a public walk. From the wall itself is a fine prospect
+of the noble harbour, the neighbouring city, the banks, the opposite
+coast, and the broad river, where ships of every kind and of all
+nations are coming and going. Another favourite place of resort is the
+garden at Hoboken, the name of which indicates its Dutch origin, for
+it is well known that the Dutch founded the first considerable
+settlement in this place, numerous traces of which still remain.
+[pg. 15] The communication with Hoboken is by means of a steam-boat. The
+garden extends along the banks of the Hudson, and the lofty trees and
+thickets are pleasing and interesting to the stranger. The tall
+hickory and other kinds of walnut trees had now their fruit half
+grown. Storax trees (_Liquidambar styraciflua_), with their maple-like
+leaves, grow very high and straight, _Gleditschia triacanthos_ and
+_inermis_, with wild vines, climbing round them; and many other fine
+forest trees afford protection against the heat of the summer. Many
+European trees and shrubs, too, have been planted here. Thus we saw a
+hedge of whitethorn, the growth of which, however, was stunted by
+other wood. Many birds, whose notes were unknown to us, were heard in
+these shades. On my first visit to New York, I was interested by some
+collections of natural history; for instance, two museums, one of
+which, belonging to Mr. Peale, is, however, much inferior to that of
+his brother at Philadelphia. Being anxious to see Philadelphia, I
+hastened to set out for that city, and left New York, where the
+cholera was daily spreading more and more.
+
+On the 16th, at six in the morning, I embarked on board the Swan
+steam-boat, which was so crowded with passengers that there was
+scarcely room to sit down. On our left we had Staten Land; but we soon
+turned to the right, into the river Raritan, on which New Brunswick is
+situated.
+
+New Brunswick is a village, consisting of many straggling streets,
+where all the passengers landed from the steam-boat, and took their
+seats in stage-coaches, drawn by four horses, which were standing
+ready to receive them. The heat was great, the company very mixed, and
+I had the misfortune to have noisy and disagreeable companions. A long
+hill, with steep sides, which appears to consist of a reddish clay,
+extends along the water-side to New Brunswick. On the eminence above
+the town it was naked and rather sterile; the road was bad, and we
+were roughly jolted as we drove rapidly along. Meadows, fields of
+clover, rye, oats, and maize succeeded each other in the vicinity of
+the habitations, as well as plantations of European fruit trees, full
+of large caterpillar's nests, but flourishing in the greatest
+luxuriance. The beautiful red trumpet flower partly covered the sides
+of the houses, about which Italian poplars and Babylonian willows were
+frequently planted; the latter are often very high and spreading. The
+cattle are partly without horns. Sheep and swine were numerous.
+
+While we were changing horses at Kingston, negro and other children
+offered milk, little cakes, and half-ripe fruit for sale, of which a
+great deal was bought. Some German peasants, lately arrived from
+Europe, who were welcomed by their relations, previously settled in
+the country, completely filled a couple of stages, and were not a
+little merry, in their low German language, at which Americans laughed
+heartily. From this place the country was rather woody. Here and there
+were fine forests, the shade of which was very refreshing in this hot
+weather. The growth of timber was very fine. A pretty wild rose
+blossomed among the bushes in the meadows. Oak, sassafras, walnut,
+chestnut, plane, and tulip trees, displayed their luxuriant foliage of
+various and often glossy green. The tulip trees, when young, are
+distinguished by [pg. 16] their pyramidal shape and beautiful light
+green leaves; they were at this time covered with their seed vessels,
+which were full-grown, but not ripe. The branching phytolacea, and the
+thorn-apple with its large white flowers, which were now open, as well
+as several plants brought from Europe, grew in abundance by the
+road-side, also species of sumach, partly entwined with wild vine; and
+in the forest was underwood of _Rhododendron maximum_. We passed
+rapidly through Prince Town, and arrived at Trenton, on the Delaware,
+a straggling town, lying among thickets, on the low banks of the
+river. A long, covered wooden bridge led to the opposite bank of this
+broad river, which was animated by ships and boats. Such colossal,
+covered wooden bridges are very common in the United States; and many
+travellers have already described the construction of these useless
+masses of timber. From Trenton, we hastened over a sandy tract to
+another place on the river, opposite to which is Bordentown, and at a
+short distance lay the steam-boat, Trenton, ready to convey us down
+the river to Philadelphia. We descended the fine river Delaware, the
+low, verdant banks of which are covered with many towns, settlements,
+and country houses; here and there, too, with forests of oaks, &c.,
+and of a kind of pine (_pinus rigida_).[28] After taking dinner, at
+which we were waited on by negroes and mulattoes, we reached
+Philadelphia about five or six o'clock.
+
+This city extends a great way along the right bank of the Delaware,
+but has by no means so beautiful and striking an effect as New York.
+It is large and regularly built; the long, straight streets crossing
+each other at right angles. The modern part of the city is handsome,
+consisting of lofty brick buildings, ornamented in the English
+fashion; but the older parts of Philadelphia consist of low, mean
+houses. It is very judicious that, in hot weather, an agreeable shady
+walk is formed by awnings spread before the houses, and that the
+streets are well watered. The water-works are at Fairmount, where
+there is a basin, from which pipes convey the water to every part of
+the city.
+
+The streets which run at right angles to the Delaware are called by
+the names of different kinds of trees--Mulberry Street, Walnut Street,
+Chestnut Street, &c.: the streets which cross them are numbered, First
+Street, Second Street, Third Street, &c. Chestnut Street, without
+doubt the finest, is full of life and traffic. A part of it has, in
+the middle, a shady avenue of lime trees; and, besides, there are, in
+many of the streets, rows of trees which do not yet afford much shade.
+Splendid shops, in almost uninterrupted succession, line the streets,
+and you find here all the manufactures and produce of the other
+quarters of the globe. The ancient, injudicious practice of having the
+churchyards in the towns is still retained in America. They are filled
+with great numbers of whitish monuments, of various forms, often
+planted with high trees, and lie quite exposed to view, being
+separated from the street only by an iron railing. Philadelphia has a
+considerable number of public buildings, especially many churches and
+meeting-houses of [pg. 17] different religious denominations, most of
+which are extremely plain brick buildings, without any external
+ornaments whatever. This country has no history like the Old World,
+and therefore we look in vain for the ancient Gothic cathedrals, and
+those awe-inspiring monuments of past ages, from which the traveller
+in Europe derives so much pleasure and instruction. Besides the
+churches, the principal buildings are the State House, where the
+independence of the country was proclaimed on the 4th of July, 1776,
+the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Exchange, the
+University and the Medical College, the Mint, some hospitals, the
+Deaf and Dumb Asylum, and many others, which it would lead us too far
+to mention here.
+
+Philadelphia would make a more striking impression if we could find a
+spot commanding a view of the whole; but as it lies in the plain
+between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, which unite five miles
+below the city, no such spot is to be found.
+
+It is well known that this city was founded, in 1682, by William Penn,
+a Quaker, who concluded, under an elm tree, which recently fell down
+from age, a convention with the Delaware Indians, the proprietors of
+the soil, by which they ceded to him a tract of land. Philadelphia,
+literally "the city of the brethren" (Quakers), contains people from
+all the nations of Europe, especially Germans, French, and English. In
+some parts of the city, German is almost exclusively spoken. In the
+year 1834, the population consisted of 80,406 whites, and 59,482
+people of colour. I arrived in Philadelphia at an unfavourable moment,
+for the cholera had already manifested itself also in that city.
+Letters of introduction from Europe procured me a kind reception in
+some houses; but, on the other hand, I had not an opportunity of
+becoming acquainted with several scientific gentlemen, because, being
+physicians, they were now particularly engaged. Professor Harlan, M. D.,
+well known to the learned world as an author, was of the number.[29]
+Mr. Krumbhaar, a German, to whom I had letters, received me with much
+kindness, and introduced me to many agreeable acquaintances. He took
+me to the water-works at Fair Mount, one of the most interesting spots
+near the city, which are indeed worth seeing. The road led past the
+House of Correction, where young offenders, who are still capable of
+being reclaimed, are confined. On the bank of the river, there are
+buildings in which large wheels set in motion the machinery by which
+the water is raised to the reservoirs, on an eminence about eighty
+feet high, whence the pipes are carried to all parts of the city. The
+rocky eminence, from which a fine, clear spring rises, is provided
+with stairs and balustrades, and adorned with elegant pavilions, which
+command a view of the water-works, and of the beautiful valley of the
+Schuylkill. It is a favourite promenade, and daily resorted to by
+numbers of persons, as they can have all kinds of refreshments there.
+Beautiful plants, the catalpa, plantain, &c., grow among the rocks
+with great luxuriance, being watered by the springs. We crossed the
+great bridge over the Schuylkill, to return to the city, where I made
+but a short stay, because my fellow-travellers were still detained at
+New York, waiting for our baggage from Boston. As [pg. 18] all the
+roads were crowded with fugitives from New York, it was not a
+favourable moment for travelling; I therefore resolved on an excursion
+to Bordentown, in order to obtain some little knowledge of the forests
+of New Jersey.
+
+I left Philadelphia, on board the Burlington steam-boat, about noon,
+and arrived at Bordentown between four and five o'clock. At this place
+are the estates of the Count de Survilliers (Joseph Buonaparte), who
+had but lately sailed for Europe.[30] The pleasant country house, in
+the fine park, is about 300 paces from the village, near to the high
+road, and near, also, to the iron railway from Amboy to Camden,
+opposite to Philadelphia.[31] Workmen were employed in making this
+road, in doing which, advantage was taken of the hollow of the valley,
+so that the railway was much below the common road, or the street of
+the town. I found some interesting plants in the woods opposite the
+Count's park. There were three or four kinds of oak, among which are
+the _Quercus ferruginea_, with its large, peculiarly shaped leaves;
+the white oak, the leaves of which are the most like the European;
+also, varieties of walnut trees, chestnuts, and the sassafras, a fine,
+tall tree, which was just then in blossom, the leaves of which often
+vary in shape. The undergrowth of this forest, in which pines were
+mixed with other trees, consisted of _Rhododendron maximum_
+(Pennsylvania mountain laurel) and kalmia, the latter of which, in the
+deep shade, was already out of flower; but the former still had its
+large bunches of beautiful white or pale red blossoms, and was from
+ten to fifteen feet high. The stiff, laurel-like, dried leaves of this
+fine plant covered the ground, and crackled as we passed along, which
+reminded me of the Brazilian forests, where this occurs in a much
+greater degree. On open, uncultivated spots, the great mullein
+(_Verbascum thapsus_), with its yellow flowers, and large, woolly
+leaves, grew in great abundance, and likewise the phytolacea. Among
+the thick blackberry bushes, entwined with vines, by the road-side, I
+observed the little striped squirrel, which doubtless climbs to get at
+the fruit.
+
+At ten o'clock, the heat was already so intense that I returned to the
+inn, where I arrived very much fatigued. This house is very pleasantly
+situated on an eminence above the Delaware, at the place where the
+steam-boats arrive, and from which there is a fine view of the arm of
+the river, and the adjacent lowland, covered with woods and thickets.
+A great ornament of this landscape is the white garden-pavilion of
+Count Survilliers, which rises above the thick groves on the left bank
+of the Delaware, above Bordentown. In the cool of the evening I
+usually went to this park. The house itself is a pretty building, on a
+lawn near the water-side, where oleander and orange plants are placed.
+The park is very shady, and extends along the Croswick Creek, towards
+which the bank forms a steep, wildly wooded declivity. In this wood
+there was likewise a thick undergrowth of _Rhododendron maximum_, now
+in full blossom. On an eminence immediately above the river, stands a
+kind of tower, several stories high, upon a terrace, from the gallery
+of which is a fine and extensive view over the low, wooded country,
+and the arms of the river. From this place winding paths lead through
+the gloomy forest of [pg. 19] pine trees, of different varieties, where
+many birds, of kinds unknown to me, were flying about. The cat bird
+(_Turdus felivox_, Vieill.), whose voice has a slight resemblance to
+that of a cat, was very numerous in this place. From the top of the
+wooded bank a sort of bridge has been carried out, a great height
+above the river, and a square place furnished with seats, from which
+you overlook the whole country. An old Canadian pine stands at the
+edge of the bank, some branches of which we carried off, by way of
+memorial. The view from this place is remarkably beautiful; to the
+right and left extends the river, or rather broad brook, which, at
+the feet of the spectator, is covered with water plants. The
+yellow-blossomed _Nymph�a adversus_, and the beautiful _Pontederia
+cordata_ grow here in great abundance. There was plenty of occupation
+for the botanist and the ornithologist, and the sportsman would have
+reason to be satisfied, for in the neighbouring thickets there were
+deer (_Cervus virginianus_), and hares (_Lepus Americanus_), which
+frequently crossed our path.[32]
+
+On my return to Bordentown, I found before the door of the inn a
+number of gentlemen lying in more than easy positions on the benches;
+the chief subject of conversation was the cholera, which filled the
+whole country with terror.
+
+It was precisely the hottest part of summer, and it was scarcely
+possible to protect one's self against the swarms of European flies,
+which are very numerous. On this account there are, in the inns,
+negroes and mulattoes, who attend at table, and give the company rest
+from those troublesome insects, and, at the same time, cool air, by
+fanning them with fans, made of feathers, often those of the peacock.
+Fans are, in fact, an article of luxury, and are purchased in the
+towns; they are made of the tail feathers of the wild turkey, the
+crane, or the swan, of palm leaves, &c. It was so hot in the daytime,
+that it was hardly possible to leave the house; and the cholera,
+therefore, spread rapidly in New York. In this sultry season, the
+evenings were really refreshing, and gave new life both to men and
+animals. When it became dusk, luminous insects flew about, and the
+crickets chirped in notes like those in Europe, but in more rapid
+succession.
+
+On the following day I visited other places and woods in the vicinity
+of Bordentown. The town itself is built in the country fashion, with
+regular, broad, unpaved streets or roads, and the houses lie detached
+from each other, shaded by rows of trees: this is very necessary, for
+now, at 10 o'clock in the morning, Fahrenheit's thermometer, in the
+cool passage of the inn, was at 73�. The avenues of trees in the town
+consisted of robinia, paper-mulberry, large-leaved poplars, which
+exude an aromatic gum, weeping willows, and Syrian mallow, which
+latter grow to the height of ten and even fifteen feet. These plants,
+with their beautiful flowers, flourish here in much greater perfection
+than in Germany. In the gardens we observed monarda (Oswego tea),
+[pg. 20] the Indian cress (_trop�olum_), purple convolvulus, buckthorn
+(_Lycum Europeum_), the climbing trumpet flower, vine, catalpa,
+larkspur, &c.
+
+From Bordentown I sometimes passed beyond the iron railroad, and
+penetrated into the neighbouring forest. Five or six species of oak,
+several kinds of walnut trees, beeches, chestnuts, and dogwood, formed
+the thick wood, the undergrowth of which consisted of _Rhododendron
+maximum_, kalmia, rhus, and tall juniper.
+
+On the 23rd of July I left Bordentown, and returned to Philadelphia,
+as our baggage had not yet arrived from Boston. I made use of this
+interval to examine the museum of Mr. Titian Peale, which contains the
+best collection of natural history in the United States. There is the
+fine large skeleton of the Ohio elephant (_Mastodon, Cuv._), and
+likewise most of the animals of North America, pretty well stuffed.
+Among them I noticed, especially, the bison, the bighorn or wild sheep
+of the rocky mountains, the prairie antelope (_Antilocapra Americana
+Ord._), the elk (_Cervus major_, or _Canadensis_) the grisly bear
+(_Ursus ferox_), and others. Mr. Peale, the owner, accompanied the
+expedition under Major Long to the Rocky Mountains, where he procured
+part of these specimens himself.[33] There are likewise many
+specimens of foreign animals; for instance, a rhinoceros; and the
+collection of Indian dresses, utensils, and arms, is, I think, the
+most important that I have yet seen. I was particularly interested by
+some oil paintings of Indian villages and scenery by Seymour. This
+artist also accompanied Major Long's expedition. Mr. Peale's
+collection deserves precedence above all the public museums in the
+United States, for its more scientific arrangement, and because fewer
+trifling nicknacks have been admitted into it. Mr. Peale has also
+travelled in South America, and his health was still suffering from
+his visit to that country.
+
+As the study of the aboriginal nations of America had peculiar
+attractions for me, I searched the shops of all the booksellers and
+printsellers, for good representations of that interesting race; but
+how much was I astonished, that I could not find, in all the towns of
+this country, one good, that is, characteristic representation of
+them, but only some bad or very indifferent copper-plates, which are
+in books of travels! It is incredible how much the original American
+race is hated and neglected by the foreign usurpers. Only a few
+eminent men, who have felt this reproach and defect, are now exerting
+themselves to rescue from oblivion the neglected materials, scarce as
+they now are, after it has become next to impossible to collect
+anything complete respecting the history of many exterminated Indian
+tribes. Messrs. Morse, Smith Barton, Edwin James, Say, Duponceau,
+Schoolcraft, Cass, McKenney, and some others, are an honourable
+exception in this respect. A fine work, with coloured lithographic
+plates, was contemplated at Philadelphia, which deserves
+encouragement; it was to give the history of the several Indian
+tribes, with portraits of their chiefs, for which the Government was
+ready to furnish all the materials in its possession. It seems that
+this important publication has at length been carried into execution.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] The first recorded death by cholera, in North America, occurred
+on June 8, 1832, at Quebec. The epidemic began raging in northwest
+India in 1827-28. It reached the shores of the Caspian Sea (1829),
+spread throughout Russia (1829-30), reached England (1831), and spread
+to the United States by way of Detroit the following year. Rapidly
+extending throughout the union, it counted its victims in nearly every
+state and territory.--ED.
+
+[27] For a brief sketch of Astor, see Franch�re's _Narrative_, in our
+volume vi, p. 186, note 8.--ED.
+
+[28] The Americans report of this pine that, if it is cut down, oaks
+and other trees immediately grow up in its place; and if these are cut
+down, the pines grow up again, and so continually alternating in the
+same manner!--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[29] Richard Harlan (1796-1843) graduated from the medical department
+of the University of Pennsylvania (1818), practiced medicine in
+Philadelphia, and later occupied the chair of comparative anatomy in
+the Philadelphia Museum. He was a member of the Cholera Commission of
+1832, and of many learned societies both in this country and abroad.
+His chief publications were: _Observations on the Genus Salamandra_
+(Philadelphia, 1824), _Fauna Americana_ (1825), _American Herpitology_
+(1827), _Medical and Physical Researches_ (1835), and a translation of
+Gaunal, _History Of Embalming_, with additions (1840).--ED.
+
+[30] Joseph Bonaparte (1768-1844) held many positions of trust under
+his brother Napoleon. He negotiated the treaty of peace between this
+country and France in 1800, and the treaty of Amiens in 1802. He was
+made king of Naples (1806), and king of Spain two years later. In an
+interview with his brother after the battle of Waterloo, arrangements
+were made for a meeting in New York. In the summer of 1815 Joseph
+Bonaparte, under the assumed title of Comte de Survilliers, came to
+the United States and purchased a mansion in Philadelphia, a country
+seat of about a thousand acres, near Bordentown, New Jersey, six miles
+below Trenton, and later a summer home on the edge of the Adirondack
+Mountains. His favorite residence was "Point Breeze," near Bordentown,
+where in 1820 he built what was accounted the finest mansion in the
+state. In 1850, Henry Beckett, the British consul at Philadelphia,
+purchased "Point Breeze," and demolished its mansion. Joseph Bonaparte
+was in Europe from 1832 to 1837; the next two years in this country;
+and in 1841 went to Florence, Italy, where he died. His benevolence
+and hospitality won for him much admiration in the United States. See
+our volumes xi, p. 159, and xii, p. 79.--ED.
+
+[31] On February 4, 1830, the state legislature of New Jersey granted
+a charter for the Camden and Amboy Railroad.--ED.
+
+[32] We were told that the Virginian deer were formerly very numerous
+here, but that it had been found necessary to shoot them, because, in
+the rutting season, they roamed about and did great damage to the
+crops.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[33] For Major Long's _Expedition_, see our volumes xiv-xvii. Short
+notes on the Peale family, Seymour, and Say may be found in our volume
+xiv, pp. 39-41, note 2.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+RESIDENCE AT FREIBURG AND BETHLEHEM IN PENNSYLVANIA, FROM JULY 30TH TO
+AUGUST 23RD
+
+   View of the Country--Population of German
+   Origin--Freiburg--Residence there--The Rocky
+   Valley--Excursions--The Colony of the Moravian Brethren at
+   Bethlehem--Residence there--Excursions.
+
+
+All the members of our party had now joined, and, though our baggage
+was not yet arrived from Boston, I resolved, in order to make myself
+acquainted with the interior of Pennsylvania, to take up my abode in
+the settlement of the Moravian Brethren at Bethlehem. I had previously
+paid a visit to the place, and found it very favourably situated for
+our object. On the 30th of June [July], before daybreak, in the finest
+weather and bright moonlight, we drove through the long streets of
+Philadelphia, and passed the churchyards, with their white, ghost-like
+monuments and tombstones. The day broke when we got out of the city.
+On both sides of the road were country houses, alternating with
+fields, enclosures, gardens, and parks; and high trees of various
+kinds were everywhere planted by the road-side. We passed through
+Germantown, a scattered village, and, by eight o'clock, arrived at
+Chestnut Hill, where the passengers usually breakfast. The inn was
+rather uncleanly, and the coffee so bad, that a portly Quaker in our
+company would not take this beverage, of which he was otherwise very
+fond. At table we were molested by innumerable European flies, though
+a servant girl took great pains to drive them away, by waving a large
+green bough over our heads.
+
+The whole country, as far as Bethlehem, and much farther, is chiefly
+inhabited by the descendants of German emigrants, who all speak an
+indifferent low German, and say that they rather converse in German
+than in English. The appearance of the country in this part is not
+particularly pleasing. Fields of potatoes, clover, oats, and maize as
+high as a man, alternate with meadows and little thickets, and all the
+fields are surrounded with hedges or wooden fences. At Montgomeryville,
+the horses are changed a second time, and the road becomes more
+diversified. [pg. 22] The habitations of the country people are
+generally small, often rather poor, frequently composed of boards,
+covered with shingles; sometimes they are merely great block-houses,
+like the cowkeeper's cottage in Switzerland. These cottages are
+surrounded with little gardens, in which there are various kinds of
+European plants, such as the hollyhock, hibiscus, larkspur, balsam,
+&c. The _Hibiscus Syriacus_ was everywhere in blossom, in the greatest
+beauty. I have never seen this fine plant so high and vigorous, or its
+flowers so large and splendid, in Europe, as here. They are of three
+varieties of colour--white, purple, and bright pink, the latter by far
+the most beautiful. In general, the trees and shrubs in this country
+are very vigorous. The vegetative power increases the more you advance
+towards the south, and the prodigious fertility of the soil remains
+long unimpaired, even after it has been stripped of its primeval
+forests.
+
+The country, as we advanced, was gradually more and more wooded. We
+drove through fine young woods of slender oaks, walnuts and chestnuts,
+ash, sassafras, beech, tupelo (_Nyssa sylvatica_), and other tall
+trees, all, with the exception of a single spot, without any underwood
+or young trees, which is a proof that there is no intention of
+perpetuating these woods for future use. In many parts they are on the
+way to total destruction, for they contain neither timber fit for
+felling, nor young plants; and if it is thought fit in future to raise
+timber in these ruined forests, the country people must be checked in
+their love of destruction, and forest laws and regulations introduced.
+It is fortunate for Pennsylvania that the rich coal mines have been
+discovered. There was a very agreeable succession of woods and
+meadows, and we saw great numbers of the beautiful red-headed
+woodpecker, which, when it spreads its wings, displays a large surface
+as white as snow. It is often seen sitting on the fences where the
+ground squirrel and the reddish squirrel, with dark lateral stripes
+(_Sciurus Hudsonius_), frequently resort. The first, in particular, is
+seen in great numbers about all these fences, running backwards and
+forwards on them. The birds which we particularly remarked were the
+robin, the blue bird, the fox-coloured thrush, the goldfinch, the
+turtle-dove, &c. The _Caprimulgus Virginianus_, which the Americans
+call the night hawk, was flying about in a meadow in bright sunshine.
+I have seen these birds everywhere, flying about in numbers, in the
+daytime, like _Azaras Nacunda_ in Brazil. This species, too, shows,
+when on the wing, the white transverse stripes which are observed in
+many species in that country. Crows and blackbirds are common, but
+there are very few birds of prey, which are far more numerous in
+Brazil. The forests in this part of the country become more lofty; the
+crowns of the trees spread wider, and afford a thicker shade.
+Travelling by a road which runs alternately through corn-fields,
+meadows, and agreeable eminences, we arrived at Freiburg, a straggling
+village, almost wholly inhabited by descendants of German emigrants.
+We stopped here a couple of days, to make excursions in the forests,
+and took up our quarters in a tolerably good country miller's house,
+close to which a Jew had set up his store.
+
+On the 1st of August, conducted by my obliging neighbour, the German
+Jew, and some [pg. 23] others of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood,
+we made an excursion to the Rocky Valley, which was represented to us
+as very well worth seeing. We proceeded through meadows and between
+fences for about half a league, and often saw the large prairie lark
+(_Alauda magna_, Linn.; _Sturnella_, Vieill.), which usually sits on
+the ground, on the grass, or on the branch of a shrub, and, when
+scared, often lights on the pines. Its song is short, and not
+disagreeable. This handsome bird is shy of the sportsman, and flies
+away betimes, when it may immediately be recognized by its short,
+outspread tail, the side feathers of which are white. Our path lay
+past isolated farm-houses, most of the inhabitants of which spoke
+German, and we then reached the forest, where we shot many fine birds.
+We next passed by several lonely log or block-houses, before the doors
+of which the children, many of them very poorly and dirtily dressed,
+were at play, and seemed to be the only possession of the inhabitants.
+The sky was overcast, and it rained, while the weather was very warm,
+which obliged us to visit the cool draw-wells of the peasants. From
+this place the forest was more and more filled with blocks of
+primitive rocks, mixed with hornblende and quartz, and these blocks
+lay about irregularly, some of them very large, and covered with
+various kinds of lichens. In this wild wooded spot, our guides could
+not tell where they were, till a German peasant showed us the rather
+hidden path, which could hardly be distinguished among the many blocks
+of stone. The _Act�a Racemosa_, with its long spikes of white flowers,
+was growing everywhere, four or five feet high, like the _Digitalis
+purpurea_, in the mountain forests on the Rhine.
+
+The wood now became thicker, and fuller of brushwood. We reached the
+bed of a stream, now dry, likewise quite filled with blocks of stone,
+which we followed, leaping from block to block, till we came in sight
+of the place called the Rocky Valley. Here, on a gentle hill, is a
+free prospect through the forest up the stream, where prodigious
+masses of great blocks of stone were so piled up, one over another,
+that a tract, from 150 to 200 paces in breadth, appears quite covered
+with them, exactly like similar heaps of stone, especially basalt, in
+Germany, some of which are found in the countries on the Rhine, where
+they are called _beilsteine_. No shrub or blade of grass can grow
+among these boulders, and the rain, which continued to fall, made them
+so slippery that it was dangerous to climb over them. No living
+creature was to be seen in this wilderness, nor, as I said before, was
+there any vegetation. These blocks seem to have been accumulated and
+piled up by some impetuous torrent, and it is said that, at the season
+of the year which is less hot and dry, the sound of water running
+under the stones is heard.
+
+From this place we returned to the habitation of the German peasant
+who had showed us the way, where we refreshed ourselves with
+brandy-and-water. The inmates of the house were, in part, engaged,
+sitting under the shade of the trees, in cutting shingles, which they
+sold. They were much astonished at our double-barrelled guns, with
+percussion locks and safety caps. There are now scarcely any wild
+animals in these forests; hardly any but the grey fox, the [pg. 24]
+Pennsylvania marmot (ground hog, or _wood chuck_), the grey and the
+red squirrel, have escaped the love of destruction of the invaders.
+
+On our return to Freiburg, I found our countryman, Dr. Saynisch, of
+Bethlehem, whom I had previously met with. He is a naturalist, and,
+being well acquainted with this part of the country, was able to give
+me much interesting information concerning it. He stopped a couple of
+days with us, and we set out on a shooting excursion the same
+afternoon.
+
+On the 2nd of August, early in the morning, we left Freiburg, in the
+most beautiful weather, and our host drove us in his dearborn (such is
+the name given to a small covered vehicle), and two spirited horses,
+to Bethlehem, the road to which afforded us much pleasure. The country
+is very agreeable: meadows, corn-fields, habitations, and copses
+succeeded each other on the side of low hills; and the fine valley,
+called, by the inhabitants, Upper Sakena, is remarkably fertile. The
+road was here and there shaded by large trees, and a small pond was
+extremely interesting to us; for, besides many curious birds, we saw
+tortoises everywhere on the banks, and on old stumps in the water,
+which, however, were very shy, and plunged below the surface as soon
+as we approached them. In the sultry heat of noon, we reached the
+Moravian settlement, Bethlehem, where we put up at a German inn.[34]
+
+This settlement is built on the top and the side of a hill, at the
+foot of which the Monocasa brook joins the Lecha (Lehigh). The Lecha
+is celebrated for its picturesque valley, which is at first wild and
+wooded, and lower down, fruitful and well cultivated. At present,
+Bethlehem is no more than a village, but it is rapidly increasing, and
+has already some pretty considerable streets, which, however, are
+still unpaved. The church is a large, neat, light building, quite in
+the plain style of the German churches of this sect, and gives the
+place a pretty appearance, being situated nearly at the top of the
+hill. Another large building is the girls' school, which has a shady
+garden, planted with timber trees, the lower part of which is on the
+Monocasa, where flowers of many kinds attract the little
+humming-birds. The lower part of the village, consisting of but a few
+houses, one of which is the inn where we lodged, and where there is a
+long wooden bridge over the Lecha, is situated in Lehigh county; and
+the large upper part, in the county of Northampton, the boundary line
+of the two counties passing through the place. Like all the
+settlements of the industrious brethren, Bethlehem has a number of
+different trades, mechanics and field-labourers. New settlers are
+continually arriving, and it will, in time, become a place of
+importance. The inhabitants are, for the most part, Germans; but there
+are likewise many English, and divine service is performed in the
+church in German and English alternately, and most of the inhabitants
+speak both languages. The country about Bethlehem is agreeable and
+diversified; the climate very healthy. Large woods alternate in the
+vicinity with the fields of the inhabitants, and a canal, from the
+coal district of Mauch Chunk to the Delaware, gives animation and
+support to the country by the numerous boats that navigate it. All
+kinds of [pg. 25] European field and garden plants are cultivated here,
+and likewise maize; they have even begun to plant vines; but what is
+called the Alexander grape, yields a rather acid beverage, which they
+usually sweeten with sugar. We were told that much better wine is
+produced in the country about Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, near York.
+Fruit does not seem to thrive so well in the United States as in
+Europe: the peach, however, may, perhaps, be excepted.
+
+I became acquainted with the directors of this colony: Mr. V.
+Schweinitz, well known in the literary world as a distinguished
+botanist, Mr. Anders the bishop,[35] and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. All
+these gentlemen received me in a very friendly manner, and Mr. Seidel,
+in particular, showed me much kindness. Dr. Saynisch lived in the same
+house with me, and I derived great benefit from his knowledge of the
+country. Our whole time at Bethlehem was devoted to excursions in the
+neighbouring country. Opposite the place, on the other side of the
+Lecha, is a range of mountains, or moderate hills, beautifully wooded,
+which afforded a great variety of pleasant walks. The mountains are
+covered with picturesque forests of oak, walnut, and other timber
+trees, under which there is, generally, a thick covert of tall
+_Rhododendron maximum_, which was still adorned with its magnificent
+large tufts of flowers. In these dark shades we soon learned to
+distinguish the notes of the different birds, among which was the
+flame-coloured Baltimore bird, which we recognized, at a distance, by
+its splendid plumage, when it was flying to its remarkable pendent
+nest, of which we saw several. The Lecha, the bottom of which was
+covered with naked blocks and masses of stone, is adorned by
+picturesque islands, some of them of considerable extent, to which we
+made many interesting excursions. Numerous kinds of aquatic plants
+grow in the water; and among these plants we saw numbers of tortoises.
+Mr. Bodmer made a very characteristic drawing of this wood and water
+scenery.[36] When we had crossed the river, we landed on the island in
+a dark, lofty, airy grove, where all the kinds of trees common in
+this country grow vigorously, and entirely exclude the sun's rays. The
+ground is clothed with many fine plants: the beautiful _Lobelia
+cardinalis_, which is common in all this part of the country, was in
+blossom on the banks, as well as many other plants.
+
+This beautiful forest was peopled by a great variety of birds; besides
+those above-mentioned, we saw, in the crowns of the highest trees, the
+bright red Tanagra, the black and red Baltimore bird, the
+humming-bird, with reddish-brown eyes; the greenish heron, and the
+ash-coloured kingfisher, flew up from the stones on the bank. Whenever
+we were overtaken by a shower of rain on these lovely islands, we took
+shelter in the hollow trunks of old plane trees, of which there is one
+capable of holding ten persons. In these cool shades we did not much
+feel the heat of the summer, but it was very oppressive in the town;
+at nine o'clock in the evening the temperature of our apartment was 18�
+Reaumur (72�� Fahrenheit), and there were frequent thunder-storms. At
+noon the temperature in the cool passages of our house was at 23� or
+24� Reaumur (86� Fahrenheit).
+
+[pg. 26] We made frequent excursions to these charming islands; and Mr.
+Bodmer, who went thither every day to complete his sketch of the
+forests, generally came back laden with tortoises (_Emys odorata_ and
+_picta_) and other amphibia, or fresh water shells. This _Emys picta_
+is one of the most beautiful kinds of this family in Pennsylvania:
+there is certainly no country in which tortoises are so numerous, and
+of such a variety of species, as North America.
+
+The banks of the Lehigh, chiefly covered with high woods, differ from
+the more open banks of the Monocasa, where extensive thickets of reed
+and reed mace (_Typha_) are the abode of the beautiful red-shouldered
+Oriole. The little shrub-like oak (_Quercus chincapin_) grows in
+abundance on the hills that border this stream. We made other
+interesting visits to the wooded Lecha mountains, on the north or
+north-east bank of that river, below Bethlehem. They are thickly
+covered with high timber and much underwood, and from their summits
+there is a fine prospect over the whole of the surrounding hilly
+country. The chestnut trees have been very much thinned in these
+forests, as the wood is highly valued, not for fuel, as it is light
+and porous, but for fences, because it is said to remain uninjured in
+the ground for sixty years.
+
+The splendid bright red Tanagra was not uncommon in these forests; but
+we now met with none that were quite red, because the old males put
+on, towards autumn, the plain olive-coloured plumage of the females.
+Many of these fine birds had still bright red spots, which showed that
+they were undergoing a change in their plumage. Only a couple of
+species of the genus Tanagra, which are so numerous in the Brazilian
+forests, are found in all North America; but the manner and mode of
+living of these animals are everywhere the same. They are quiet birds,
+not remarkable for their song, but make up for this deficiency by the
+splendour of their plumage. The small hare (_Lepus Americanus_) and
+the grey squirrel were almost the only quadrupeds we saw in these
+woods; but of the class of amphibia there were many kinds. The larger
+wild animals have almost wholly disappeared. All North America was
+formerly one interminable forest, only there were what are called
+prairies in the western parts beyond the Alleghany mountains; but all
+Pennsylvania, a state comprising 44,500 square miles, was a primeval
+forest, which was thinned in a short time by the numerous settlers who
+flocked to this country. The larger species of game disappeared in the
+same ratio; and in the immediate vicinity of Bethlehem there are now
+not even any deer. It was mentioned to me as a very rare occurrence,
+that a bear had been seen here two years before, and was immediately
+pursued, but in vain, by the hunters. Some small animals still live in
+these forests, which, however, are not to be found except at night;
+among these are the opossum (_Didelphys Virginiana_) and the skunk
+(_Mephitis Americana_). The first is not frequently met with in these
+parts; the latter, on the contrary, is not uncommon.
+
+In order to catch the skunk, our hunters went by night to the Lecha
+mountains, and searched the forest with hounds, and almost always
+attained their object. The dogs killed the animal by biting it, and
+were sometimes a little perfumed. It has been reported that they
+[pg. 27] avoid the smell; but I can testify that we did not meet with
+any confirmation whatever of this statement. In fact, the stories told
+of the offensive smell of this animal are rather exaggerated, for an
+European polecat is often nothing behind the skunk in this
+disagreeable quality. The hunters brought home a half-grown skunk
+alive, and we kept it in a box in the garden, where it was very tame
+and quiet, and never emitted the slightest smell. We opened the box,
+and let it run about at liberty. It is only when alarmed that the
+skunk is offensive to the olfactory nerves. The hollow trees in these
+forests were the abode of the pretty flying squirrel, which, however,
+is not to be seen in the daytime. The banks of the river are inhabited
+by the musk-rat, which is often seen swimming, and is sometimes taken
+in the fishing nets.
+
+One of our usual walks, during our stay at Bethlehem, was up or down
+the banks of the Mauch Chunk canal. This canal is divided from the
+Lecha by a dam, on which grow many fine plants, about which numbers of
+humming-birds were fluttering. In my whole journey through North
+America, I nowhere found these pretty birds so numerous as here. They
+hummed about the yellow flowers of the broad-leaved tree primrose
+(_Oenothera_), of the violet _Asclepias incarnata_ (swallow wort), of
+the _Impatiens fulva_, with its deep orange-coloured flowers, &c.,
+and we shot many of these little creatures, among ten of which we
+found, at the most, one male, with deep red throat. The dam was
+bordered with stones at the sides; and among them were numbers of the
+striped ground squirrel. Tall thistles are the constant resort of the
+goldfinches, which picked the woolly seeds from the flower heads. At
+some mills, on an island near the road, there was a grove of tall
+trees, the dark shades of which were animated by many interesting
+birds, especially the beautiful Baltimore bird and the flycatcher
+(_Muscicapa ruticilla_), which is distinguished by the same colours,
+and is frequent here. Under the old stems, and from the roots of the
+trees on the bank, the great bull-frogs leaped into the water, however
+softly and cautiously we approached. Their deep, hollow note was not
+heard so much in this season, as in the spring and the beginning of
+the summer. I nowhere saw these frogs so numerous as here in
+Pennsylvania.
+
+Opposite to these hills, on the other bank of the Lecha, was a wood of
+very tall, old trees, the airy, shady crowns of which were inhabited
+by birds of more different kinds than any other place in this
+neighbourhood. From that wood we always returned loaded with booty.
+There, too, we observed interesting butterflies, such as _Papileo
+turnus_, the beautiful black and blue philenor, and other species. The
+thick hedges near the houses were the resort of numerous cat-birds.
+The fishing-hawk hovered over the river, watching for prey, and we
+often saw the three-striped viper (_Coluber sirtalis_) glide among the
+grass.
+
+To the north and north-west of Bethlehem the woods consist of oaks
+without any underwood, the cattle having their pasture there. All
+these interesting excursions greatly increased our collections; and
+the Rev. Mr. Seidel, who had a good library, and a taste for the study
+of Nature, had the kindness to provide us with the necessary literary
+assistance. We lived here [pg. 28] very agreeably in the society of
+well-informed men and fellow-countrymen, and our residence at the
+extremity of the place, close to the woods and fields, afforded us the
+most favourable opportunity for our researches and labours; and our
+landlord, Mr. W�hler, from Westphalia, did everything in his power to
+assist us in our occupations. This, in some degree, indemnified me for
+the deplorable loss of time occasioned by the delay in the arrival of
+our baggage. I should have reached the Western States long before, if
+I had not been obliged to wait for those indispensable articles.
+During our stay here, we often saw German emigrants arrive, almost all
+of whom were from W�rtemberg, Baden, or Rhenish Bavaria. In the most
+lamentable condition, without money, without the slightest knowledge
+of the country or the language, they were going to meet their
+precarious fate. They were generally refused admittance at the English
+inns, and then W�hler, not without considerable expense, took on him
+to forward them on their journey.
+
+We received news from Philadelphia that the cholera had rather abated;
+it had entirely spared Bethlehem and its vicinity. The canal colliers
+gave me an opportunity of sending my collections to New York, which I
+did in the beginning of September. The Flora of the country had then
+produced its white, yellow, or purple autumnal flowers; the golden
+rod, sunflower, Eupatorium, and some kinds of Aster were in blossom,
+and the white flowers of the _Clematis Virginiana_.
+
+The weather now remained very uniformly hot during the whole of July
+and August, with occasional thunder-storms; and if the summers in the
+United States are usually of this temperature, as we were assured,
+they are more equally hot, and for a longer time, than that season is
+in Germany. In order to make myself acquainted with Nazareth, the
+other settlement of the Moravian brethren, I drove there in company
+of the Rev. Mr. Seidel. It is ten miles from Bethlehem. On the road to
+it lies Altoona, consisting of some scattered habitations, and
+afterwards, on approaching the Monocasa, Hecktown. Nazareth is a
+pleasant place, with some unpaved streets, and has a gymnasium for the
+education of young clergymen. All the masters are Germans, but their
+instructions are given in the English language. The building seems to
+be old, and not very spacious. From the roof there is a fine,
+extensive prospect to the blue hills on the banks of the Delaware, and
+to the verdant, wooded banks of the Lecha. The gymnasium has a small
+cabinet of natural history. The church is not so large as that at
+Bethlehem, but can be easily warmed in the winter. A little beyond the
+garden, which has many shady walks, is the churchyard, where the flat,
+square tombstones, with short inscriptions, lie in regular rows, near
+to each other. The names of the brethren interred here show that most
+of them were Germans. There is a very fine prospect from the higher
+part of this churchyard. The greensward is here thickly covered with
+European thyme. Nazareth has about 350 inhabitants, and sixty youths
+in the gymnasium. There are in the place a good inn, shops of various
+kinds, &c. Mr. Herrman,[37] the present director of the establishment,
+had the kindness to show us everything worthy of notice, and we had
+only to regret that we could not enjoy longer the pleasure of his
+company, as we were [pg. 29] obliged to return to Bethlehem in the
+afternoon. Mr. Gebhard, from New York, who had surprised us by an
+unexpected visit, returned direct from Nazareth to his own residence.
+The view of these Pennsylvanian landscapes would be much more
+agreeable if the numerous wooden fences did not give them a stiff,
+unnatural character. Some idea may be formed of the number of these
+fences from the fact that, in the short distance of ten miles, persons
+going on foot, direct from Bethlehem to Nazareth, have to climb over
+twenty-five of these fences.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[34] Bethlehem is today a post borough and summer resort in
+Southampton County, Pennsylvania, fifty-six miles north of
+Philadelphia. At times during the Revolutionary War, it was the
+general hospital headquarters for the Continental army and about five
+hundred soldiers were buried there. In 1740, under the leadership of
+Whitefield, a small body of Moravians who had recently migrated to
+Georgia settled on the Forks of the Delaware. Within a few weeks,
+however, doctrinal differences influenced Whitefield to expel the
+Moravians from his estate. Through the labors of Bishop Nitschmann,
+the latter purchased from William Allen five hundred acres on the
+banks of the Lehigh River. Count Zinzendorf, visiting the hamlet at
+Christmas in the same year, named it Bethlehem. It has since remained
+the centre of the northern division of the Moravian church in the
+United States.--ED.
+
+[35] Lewis David von Schweinitz was born at Bethlehem (1780), and died
+there in 1834. Educated in Germany, he returned to the United States
+and won a large reputation as a botanist being made a member of
+various scientific societies in this country and Europe. He added
+fourteen hundred new species to the catalogue of American flora, wrote
+numerous books on botany, and at his death bequeathed to the Academy
+of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia his herbarium, at that time the
+largest in North America.
+
+Before coming to Pennsylvania, John D. Anders (1771-1847) had charge
+of the Moravian church at Berlin, where his great ability attracted
+much attention among the students of the university. In 1827 he was
+appointed to preside over the northern district of the American
+Moravian church. This position he held until 1836, when he was elected
+to the supreme executive board of the _Unitas Fratrum_.--ED.
+
+[36] See Plate 34, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[37] Born and educated in Prussia, John Gottlieb Herman came to the
+United States in 1817, and taught and preached in Pennsylvania until
+1844, when he was elected to the supreme executive board of the
+Moravian church. During a part of his stay in America, he was
+principal of Brown's boarding school for boys. After a brief mission
+to the West Indies, he was elected president of the synod of the
+entire Moravian church, held in Herrnhut, Saxony. Returning to the
+United States in 1849, he died (1854) in the wilds of southwest
+Missouri while returning from a mission to the Cherokee Indians.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+JOURNEY TO THE POKONO, AND THROUGH THE BLUE MOUNTAINS TO MAUCH CHUNK,
+IN THE COAL DISTRICT, FROM THE 23RD TO THE 30TH OF AUGUST
+
+   Easton on the Delaware--Morris Canal--View of the Blue
+   Mountains--Delaware Gap--Dutotsburg--Chestnut Hill--Sach's
+   Public house on the Pokono--Height of the Pokono--Long
+   Pond--Tonkhanna Creek--Tobihanna Creek--Inn of the Widow
+   Sachs--Saw-mill on the Tobihanna, with the Bear-trap--Stoddart's
+   Ville on the Lehigh--Shade Creek--Bear Creek--Extensive View of
+   the Mountains--Wilkesbarre in the Valley of Wyoming, or
+   Susquehannah Valley--Falls of Solomon Creek--Hanover
+   Township--Neskopeck Valley--German Settlers--Lausanne--Neskihone
+   or Neskihoning Valley--Picturesque Scenery on the Lehigh--Mauch
+   Chunk.
+
+
+In order to make ourselves acquainted with the interior of
+Pennsylvania, and the Alleghany mountains, which are the most
+interesting part of that state, we left Bethlehem early in the
+morning, on the 23rd of August, in a light, covered carriage, driven
+by our landlord, W�hler, who was well known in all this country. Dr.
+Saynisch and Mr. Bodmer accompanied me. I left my huntsman behind to
+look after our affairs at home. The country was enveloped in fog, as
+had been generally the case for some time past, till the sun dispelled
+it. We took the road to Easton, where the fields were partly cleared,
+and covered with stubble, partly planted with clover, maize, potatoes,
+and buckwheat, which was just in flower. The ground was gently
+undulating, with an alternation of fields, and woods of walnut and
+oak. This country belongs to the secondary limestone formation;
+where-ever the ground was broken up, limestone was seen, and in the
+woods were several limekilns, the produce of which was lying on the
+fields in large heaps, to be spread over them for manure. Isolated
+farm-houses are scattered along the road. They are slightly built of
+wood, many of them very small; but there are a great number of wealthy
+planters in this State. The little gardens of these houses were
+generally planted with European flowers, and on the road-side in the
+hedges, the kermes-oak and juniper abounded, and their berries
+attracted numbers of thrushes. Horses and horned cattle are very
+numerous, and the first, which are often of a very good breed, are
+left, day and night, at liberty in the meadow, and little trouble is
+taken about them. [pg. 31] The peasants are very bold in riding and
+driving, never use drags to their wheels, but drive down the hills
+full trot. In the hot and dry season, this country is often in want of
+water, and even the cisterns made by the farmers then become dry, so
+that the cattle must frequently be driven five or six miles to water.
+This arid tract is called by the inhabitants, in their German
+language, "das Trockene land," the dry land.
+
+We now saw, on our right hand, the heights on the banks of the Lehigh,
+covered with verdant forests, which we were again approaching. The
+double call of the _Perdix Virginiana et Marylandica_, called, by the
+Americans, quail or partridge, sounded in the clover fields; the
+ground squirrel ran along the fences; the red-headed woodpecker flew
+from tree to tree; and plants of various kinds, _Verbascum thapsus_
+(great mullein), _Antirrhinum linaria_ (the common toadflax),
+_Phytolacea_, _Rhus typhinum_ (Virginian sumach), _Eupatorium
+purpureum_, golden rod, &c., grew by the road-side; the dwelling
+houses were surrounded with large orchards, and the apple trees were
+loaded with small yellow apples of an indifferent kind, and immense
+caterpillars' nests covered many of the branches. A great deal of
+cider is made, but the culture of fruit seems to be, in general, in
+rather a backward state. The cherry trees, too, were covered at this
+time with their small, bad fruit, which, as in Europe, was eagerly
+sought after by numbers of birds. After travelling twelve miles, we
+arrived at Easton, a small town with a population of 2,000
+inhabitants, the capital of Northampton county, situated at the
+conflux of the Delaware and the Lehigh. We alighted at the inn with
+many country people, and immediately set out to take a walk in the
+town, while breakfast was preparing. The streets of Easton cross each
+other at right angles; they are not paved, excepting a footway on the
+sides, paved with bricks; the largest of them runs with a gentle
+declivity to the Delaware. In a square in the highest part stands the
+Court-house. The buildings in the place are, in general, only two
+stories high; and the most interesting spot is the terrace, near the
+bridge over the Delaware. This bridge is 600 English feet long, has
+three arches, is quite closed, covered with a strong roof, and has
+fifteen glass windows on each side; it is painted yellow, and the
+building of it, like all similar undertakings in the United States,
+was a private speculation, and brings in thirty per cent., a toll
+being paid.
+
+We crossed this bridge, and walked down the river, till we came
+opposite to the spot, immediately below the town, where the Lehigh,
+issuing from its picturesque valley, between the rocky hills covered
+with pines and other trees, falls into the Delaware. Near to the
+former, on the same side, is the mouth of the Mauch Chunk canal; and
+on the other side of the Delaware begins the Morris canal, leading to
+New York.[38] A great number of men were busily employed at this spot.
+On the banks of the Delaware grew _Datura Tatula_, with its purple
+flowers, tall Virginian junipers, a verbena, and other plants; and the
+three-striped viper darted through the low bushes.
+
+[pg. 32] Returning to the inn, we loaded our guns and proceeded on our
+journey. As soon as we were out of the town, we went up the Delaware
+on the right bank, and crossed a bridge to Bushkill, a picturesque
+stream, flowing between lofty shady trees, on banks richly covered
+with a variety of plants. From this spot the way becomes extremely
+romantic and agreeable. It leads close by the bright mirror of the
+river, which may be full 200 paces broad, in the shade of the dark
+forest of plane, oak, tulip, walnut, chestnut, and other trees; and on
+the left hand rises the steep rocky wall, covered with many
+interesting plants, which are protected by the shade of the trees. The
+river soon becomes broader, and we came to isolated habitations
+situated in shady groves. We stopped at one of them to send a
+messenger, on horseback, back to Bethlehem, where the drawing
+materials, of which we had so much need, had been forgotten.
+
+The rocks often came so close to the bank of the river, that there was
+scarcely room for two carriages to pass each other: lofty forest trees
+afforded a welcome shade. In many places the rock stood out. Dr.
+Saynisch struck off with his hammer some fine pieces of saussurite
+(_Hornstone_), and talc, with mica; but a slate formation soon
+succeeded, and we were glad that we had taken good specimens of the
+preceding. Continuing our way, in the shade, by the banks of the
+river, we frequently came to other steep rocks, till the wilderness
+again gave way to human habitations, where we stopped at the White
+House to water our horses and take some refreshment. From this place
+the country was more diversified. The road still runs by the side of
+the river, which was animated by boats, and by numbers of ducks and
+geese. The Mudrun creek here issues in a very picturesque manner,
+between high trees, from a small side valley. A little farther on, we
+left the Delaware to ascend some pretty high hills. We proceeded along
+the side valley of Martin's creek, in which there are some spots of
+marshy meadow, where the splendid _Lobelia cardinalis_, which is
+usually found on the banks of all these rivers, attracted the eye by
+its deep red flowers. We then passed a naked lateral defile, where
+stubble, and clover fields, and woods, which we saw at a distance,
+reminded us of some parts of our own country. The road led over the
+heights, alternately gently ascending and descending till we came to
+the little village of Richmont, where we watered our horses, which
+suffered from the great heat, and ascended a considerable eminence, on
+which there is a mean looking church, called Upper Mount Bethel. We
+then proceeded through a more elevated plain, where, on the left hand,
+in a north-west direction, is a near prospect of the Blue Mountains,
+which form the first chain of the Alleghany.
+
+This first chain is said to be only 2,000 feet above the level of the
+sea; but it extends here further than the eye can reach, and is
+uniformly covered with verdant, primeval forests. It runs in the
+direction from north to south, and has no characteristically shaped
+peaks, or remarkable forms, so that there is nothing picturesque in
+the total effect. With the exception of some parts, especially the
+beautiful Catskill mountains, most of the landscapes of North America
+are characterized by this want of striking outlines, and this
+constitutes the great difference between them and [pg. 33] the views in
+Brazil, where the mountains and the outlines of the horizon are
+almost always marked by the most striking forms, as is usual in
+primitive mountains.
+
+In the chain before us, we remarked an opening in a northerly
+direction, where the Delaware breaks through; this is called the
+Delaware Water Gap, or the Delaware Gap. It is twenty-three miles from
+Bethlehem, and was the place of our destination to-day. We were now
+two miles from it. After passing the little town of Williamsburg, we
+saw before us, almost in all directions, luxuriant verdant woods, and
+eminences rising behind each other. As our horses hastened to the
+valley, the height of the mountains seemed to increase. At length the
+bright Delaware appeared before us, and we soon reached its banks. The
+river here forms the boundary of Warren County in New Jersey. On the
+opposite side we perceived a large glasshouse, managed by Germans,
+called Columbia Glasshouse, where many who have possessed it have
+already become bankrupts.
+
+As we approached this defile, we observed a water-snake swimming in
+the river, which suffered itself to be carried down with the stream,
+but disappeared as soon as we approached. We procured one on the
+following day, as they are not uncommon here.
+
+We had now reached the mountain chain, which rose bold and steep on
+both sides, and at every step became more and more contracted. Just
+before the defile, or gap, is an inn, behind which, at the distance of
+hardly a couple of hundred paces, runs the steep rocky wall of
+grauwacke and clay slate, here the predominant kind of rock. This high
+wall is crowned on the summit with pines, and covered at the base with
+various other trees, while the middle part is naked and rugged. At the
+foot of the mountains are luxuriant fields and meadows, in which the
+fine cattle were grazing. From this spot the rocky wall approaches
+nearer and nearer to the river, the banks of which, rude and desolate,
+are covered with many broken trunks of trees confusedly thrown
+together, many of which were still lying in the water. This is the
+effect of the rising of the river, and the breaking-up of the ice in
+spring, which had caused more extensive damages in the spring of 1832
+than on any former occasion within the memory of man. Where the banks
+of the river are flat and sandy, thickets of young planes often supply
+the place of the willows on the banks of our European rivers. The
+plane--called by the German inhabitants water maple, or water beech;
+by the Anglo-Americans, buttonwood, or sycamore--flourishes
+particularly near the water, or in low, moist situations, where it
+attains its colossal growth in perfection. These young planes, on the
+bank, were almost entirely stripped of their bark by the action of the
+water.
+
+The inn, Delaware Gap, is supposed to be 600 feet higher than
+Philadelphia, and the steep wall of rock behind it is elevated 600 or
+700 feet above it. We might have stopped here for the night, but, as
+it was early, we preferred passing the Gap. The road now led
+immediately along the bank of the river, and then obliquely upwards on
+the steep wooded western rocky wall. The savage grandeur of the
+scenery is very striking. The forest has underwood of [pg. 34] various
+kinds, where numbers of interesting plants attracted our attention.
+Picturesque rocks, over which water trickles, covered with various
+coloured mosses, lichens, and beautiful ferns, stand between the
+trunks of the trees, and form shady nooks, caverns, seats; while all
+the forest trees of this country, mixed with pines, particularly the
+hemlock spruce fir, and the Weymouth pine, make a dark wilderness that
+inspires a feeling of awe.
+
+The valley of the Gap leaves the river just room enough to force its
+way between the steep walls of rock; and, if you turn and look back in
+this interesting ravine, you see against a steep-wooded height what is
+called the Indian ladder. There are several islands in this part of
+the river, which are partially stripped of their wood by the action of
+the current, but some of them have pretty lofty trees on them. At the
+distance of about a mile from the narrowest part of the Gap, we
+reached a lonely house, where a man, six feet high, and very
+corpulent, came to meet us; he was of German descent, and his name was
+Dietrich. He would willingly have received us for the night in his
+small public-house, but there was no accommodation for our horses, and
+we therefore proceeded on our journey. In a short time we reached an
+eminence, at the turn of the rocky wall, where the solitary dwelling
+of a Frenchman, named Dutot, is built on a steep rock, high above the
+river. From this place the valley becomes more open, and the mountains
+less steep as you recede from the Delaware. A bad road leads over some
+eminences to a large open place in the woods, forming a hollow, where
+the poor little village, Dutotsburg, consisting of twelve or thirteen
+scattered dwellings, is situated. Here we took up our night's lodging
+in a tolerable public-house, which is also the post-office for the
+stages, and is kept by a farmer named Broadhead.
+
+We had scarcely taken a little rest, when a poor old man entered, who
+was the first person that had settled in this part of the country; his
+name was Dutot, and the village was called after him. He was formerly
+a wealthy planter in St. Domingo, and possessed 150 slaves; but, being
+obliged to fly during the revolution, had purchased a considerable
+piece of land here on the Delaware, and commenced building Dutotsburg.
+He had previously lost part of his property by the capture of ships,
+and his speculations here too seem to have failed. The property melted
+away, and the last remnant of his possessions was sold. He had built
+houses and sold them, so that he might be called the founder of the
+whole of Dutotsburg; yet, after all this, he is reduced to a state of
+great poverty, and his situation excites the compassion of travellers
+who pass that way.
+
+As the country about Delaware Gap was highly interesting to me, we
+remained here on the following day, the 24th of August. We were early
+in motion, when the rising sun beautifully illumined the mountains.
+Our guide, W�hler, had accompanied young Broadhead on a shooting
+excursion in the woods; the rest of us went different ways, each with
+his gun, till breakfast time. Near the village, a small stream, the
+Cherry Creek, meandered through the thickets and meadows, where
+numbers of birds came to drink, while the report of the fowling-pieces
+of our sportsmen [pg. 35] echoed from the neighbouring wood. After our
+return, I accompanied old Dutot to see his house and his family. He
+himself had nearly forgotten his native language, and his family knew
+nothing of it. We found in this house a delightful view into the
+ravine of the Delaware below, and afterwards took the way to the
+romantic wild tract which we passed through on the preceding evening.
+Several plants were here pointed out to me, to the roots of which the
+inhabitants of the country ascribe great medicinal virtues; for
+instance, the snake root, perhaps _Aristolochia serpentaria_, which is
+said immediately to stanch the most violent bleeding of any wound;
+and, above all, the lion's heart (_Prenanthes rubicunda_), which is
+commended as a sovereign remedy against the bite of serpents. Old
+Dutot related a number of successful cures which he had performed with
+this root. This plant has a tall flower stem with many flowers, and
+large arrow-shaped leaves; its root is partly tuberous, partly long,
+pretty large, and branching, of a reddish yellow colour, and contains
+a milky juice. It is boiled with milk, and two table-spoonfuls are
+taken as a dose. The swelling, caused by the bite of the reptile, is
+said speedily to disappear, after chewing the root. The Delaware
+Indians,[39] who formerly inhabited all Pennsylvania, made this remedy
+known to an old man, from whom it was inherited by the family of
+Dutot. The latter had himself been among the Indians, and gave me some
+information respecting them. They, as well as the river, were called
+after an English nobleman, but they named themselves _Leni Lenape_,
+that is, the aboriginal, or chief race of mankind, and they called the
+river _Lenapewi-hittuck_ (river of the Lenape). They are the _Loups_,
+or _Abenaquis_ of the French, inhabited Pennsylvania, New Jersey, &c.,
+and were formerly a powerful tribe. A great part of them dwelt,
+subsequently, on the White River, in Indiana, after they had been much
+reduced by the whites; but, in 1818, they were compelled to sell the
+whole of this tract of country also, to the Government of the United
+States, and lands have been allotted to them beyond the Mississippi,
+where some half-degenerate remnants of them still live. They are said
+to have previously dwelt between fifty and sixty years in the
+territory of the present state of Ohio. They buried their dead in the
+islands of the Delaware, which are now partly in possession of old
+Dutot, but wholly uncultivated, and of little importance. It is said
+that human bones are still constantly met with on turning up the
+ground, and that, formerly, Indian corpses were found buried in an
+upright position, which, however, seems to be uncertain, and with them
+a quantity of arrow-heads and axes of flint; but all these things
+were disregarded and thrown away, nor had Dutot anything remaining but
+a thin, smoothly polished stone cylinder, with which those Indians
+used to pound their maize. I was filled with melancholy by the
+reflection that, in the whole of the extensive state of Pennsylvania,
+there is not a trace remaining of the aboriginal population. O! land
+of liberty!
+
+Our excursion was extended to the public-house situated on the other
+side of the Delaware Gap, where we found a live specimen of the red
+fox of this country (_Canis fulvus_, Desm.), which we had not before
+met with. Loaded with plants, and other interesting objects, we
+returned to [pg. 36] Broadhead's house, where all the persons of our
+party successively arrived, each with something interesting. Some boys
+brought me the beautiful water-snake which we had seen on the
+preceding day. Mr. Bodmer had taken a faithful view of the Gap, near
+Dietrich's public-house.
+
+We left Broadhead's on the 25th of August, early in the morning. The
+place which we wished to reach on this day is called the Pokono, and
+is the most elevated point of the first chain of the Alleghanys or
+Blue Mountains. Our road led in a south-westerly direction, along
+Cherry Creek, through a pleasant valley diversified with meadows,
+thickets, and woods, and gradually ascending.
+
+As we rose higher and higher over gentle hills, we met a disagreeable,
+raw, cold wind, and reached, on the elevated plain, an isolated
+church, with a few habitations round it. On our asking the name of the
+place, a person, pretty well dressed, said, "he did not himself know
+the name of the place; the clergyman, a German, came, about once in a
+month, from Mount Bethel, to preach here."
+
+On reaching the top, we saw before us the highest ridge of the Blue
+Mountains, the summit of which, as I have said, is called Pokono,
+where an unbroken tract of dark forests covers the whole wilderness.
+We gradually advanced towards a more bleak and elevated region, where
+pines and firs more and more predominated. On an elevated plain we
+were surrounded, as far as the eye could reach, with woods or thickets
+of low oaks, from which numbers of slender, half-dried, short-branched
+pines (_Pinus rigida_) shot up. These pines originally formed the
+forest--the oaks, only the underwood; but the former have, for the
+most part, perished in the fires, with which the settlers have, in the
+most unwarrantable manner, without any necessity whatever, destroyed
+these primeval forests. On a part of the highland, cleared of wood,
+through which the road passes, we saw a row of new wooden houses, and
+at once perceived that timber is the source of the subsistence of the
+inhabitants. Boards, planks, shingles, everywhere lay about, and large
+quantities are exported. Shops, where most of the common necessaries
+of life were sold, had already been established in this new
+settlement.
+
+From this place, called Chestnut Hill, from the abundance of chestnut
+trees in the forests, the road declines a little, and you see, on all
+sides, numerous saw mills, which prepare for use the chief product of
+the country. The outside cuts of the pine and firs were piled up in
+large stacks; scarcely any use is made of them, and they may be bought
+for a trifle. We had to pass five or six times the windings of
+Pokonbochko Creek, the banks of which are agreeably bordered with
+thickets of alder, birch, willow-leaved spir�a, and the _Lobelia
+cardinalis_. A great number of skins of different animals were hung up
+at the house of a tanner, such as grey and red foxes, racoons, lynxes,
+&c., which led us to ask what beasts of the chase were to be met with,
+and we learned that deer and other large animals are still numerous.
+Rattlesnakes abound in these parts; they showed us many of their skins
+stuffed, and one very large one was hung up on the [pg. 37] gable end
+of a house. Some persons eat these dangerous serpents from a notion
+that, when dressed in a certain manner, they are an effectual remedy
+against many diseases.
+
+We had here a foretaste of the wild scenery of North America, which we
+might expect to find in perfection, in uninterrupted primeval forests
+on the Pokono; we, therefore, did not stop here, but hastened to the
+less inhabited, more elevated, and wilder region, where the mixture of
+firs in the forest already began to preponderate. We halted, and took
+our dinner at an isolated public-house, kept by a man of German
+origin, whose name is Meerwein. Forests surrounded the verdant meadows
+about the house, in which woodcocks were numerous. In a little
+excursion in the forest I saw splendid bushes of _Rhododendron
+maximum_, kalmia, Andromeda, _Rhodora canadensis_, _Ceanothus
+vaccinum_; and in the shade of the first, _Orchis ciliata_, with its
+beautiful orange-coloured flowers, which is found also nearer to
+Bethlehem.
+
+The entertainment in this solitary house was pretty good and
+reasonable; all the inmates, except one man, were Germans. If we had
+stopped for the night, they would have gone out for us with their
+guns, as deer and pheasants abound in the forests. Having taken the
+opportunity of forwarding our collections to Bethlehem by the stage
+which passed the house, we proceeded on our journey. From this place
+the road continues to ascend, traversing a fine thick wood, frequently
+crossing the stream. An undergrowth of scrub oak and chestnut is
+spread uniformly, and without interruption, over the whole country,
+the pines, as already mentioned, rising above it, most of which have
+suffered by fire; for in the dry season these woods have often been
+destroyed by extensive conflagrations, which have generally been
+caused by the negligence of the wood-cutters and hunters. Even now,
+clouds of smoke rose at a distance, and announced a fire in this
+great lonely wilderness. The high road is here carried directly
+through the forest; it is, for the most part, laid with wood, covered
+with earth, which requires carriages with good springs.
+
+When you have nearly reached the most elevated part of this
+wilderness, and look back, you have a grand prospect. Lofty ridges
+rise one above another in a narrow valley, all covered with dark
+forests, and, on the right and left, high walls of rock close the
+valley. We soon reached the highest summit of the Pokono, or second
+chain of the Blue Mountains, which, as I have said, forms the most
+easterly of the Alleghanys.
+
+Mr. Moser, a young botanist, had accompanied us from Bethlehem, and I
+undertook with him an excursion to a neighbouring lake on the top of
+the Pokono, while Dr. Saynisch prepared the birds that had been
+killed, and our other hunters went out to look for stags and woodhens.
+
+We proceeded about half an hour along the high road, when we perceived
+the summit of the Pokono, and then turned to the right towards an old
+decayed cottage, where oxen were grazing among the thick bushes, and
+followed a scarcely perceptible path through the wilderness. We
+crossed a valley, with thickets and scorched pines rising above them,
+where the ground was covered with various kinds of plants. An old path
+led us half a league over an eminence; after which we [pg. 38] found a
+valley, where the lake, called Long Pond, is situated, surrounded by
+low reeds and rushes, among pine woods and various interesting shrubs.
+On the narrow lake we found a small boat, in which Mr. Moser pushed
+about to botanize. He procured in this manner the pretty blue
+flowering _Pontederia lanceolata_, a red flowering _utricularia_,
+_nymph�a_, &c. Though this wilderness was perfectly lonely, we did not
+see any water-fowl, and, in fact, very little animal life, so that the
+botanist finds much more employment than the zoologist. The lake is
+about a mile long, has but little open or clear water, and receives
+its supply from the Tonkhanna Brook. When Mr. Moser reached the bank
+again, he called to me that he was very near a rattlesnake, the rattle
+of which he had distinctly heard; but, though we looked diligently, we
+could not find the animal which we had long wished to possess, because
+the ground was so thickly overgrown with plants. One of the sons of
+Mr. Sachs, our landlord, had been lately bitten by a rattlesnake while
+fishing, and they affirmed that he was soon cured by tea made of the
+bark of the white ash, which is said to be an infallible antidote to
+the bite of serpents.
+
+At noon, while we were all taking some repose, we were suddenly
+alarmed. A mink, or minx (_Mustela vison_), a small beast of prey,
+resembling the European lesser otter, had had the boldness to attack,
+in broad daylight, the poultry that were about the house, and was
+shot. Our hunters had had no success, a single pheasant being all they
+had procured.
+
+In the afternoon Mr. Bodmer joined us, having been driven hither by
+Broadhead. We immediately went out to look in the neighbourhood of the
+Sand springs[40] for a bear-trap, with an iron plate fastened to a
+chain, which was carefully covered up and concealed. Mr. Moser, who
+thought he could find the place, led us astray, but we amused
+ourselves with the interesting vegetation.
+
+We made but little addition to our ornithological collections,
+scarcely anything having been killed but the whip-poor-will
+(_Caprimulgus Virginianus_), which is very numerous in all these
+forests. Day had scarcely dawned on the 17th of August, when our whole
+company was in motion to go seven miles to the house of another Sachs
+(a near relation of our host), whose widow lived there. For about a
+mile the wood retains the same character, the firs then attain a
+greater height, and are closer together. The wood had been cleared
+around some houses, and _Phytolacea_, _Verbascum_, and _Rhus
+typhinum_, which occupy all the uncultivated spots in Pennsylvania,
+immediately sprang up. The small habitations were built entirely of
+wood, and generally painted a reddish brown. In some places we
+observed traces of fire: the low scrub oaks were scorched and black,
+and were putting forth shoots from the stumps and roots. At times we
+had an extensive view of the mountains, uniformly clothed with dark
+pine forests, everywhere high tops and ridges, and all around black
+woods. The Canadian and the Virginian pine were high and close
+together, especially in the valleys. The soil in this part is not very
+fertile, and requires to be well manured. All is forest and
+wilderness, and bears, deer, and other wild animals abound. [pg. 39] The
+Tonkhanna meanders picturesquely between thickets, and the _Lobelia
+cardinalis_ was in blossom on its banks. Bull-frogs appeared here, as
+on the banks of the Lehigh at Bethlehem, and the same species of
+butterflies as are found there. Not far from this place we came to a
+second very romantic brook, the Tobihanna, over which a short, covered
+bridge is thrown, and about 300 paces further, reached the lonely
+habitation of the Widow Sachs, in a desert spot without wood, where we
+were to pass the night.
+
+Mrs. Sachs gave us tolerable quarters, and I immediately sent for the
+most expert hunters of the neighbourhood, in order, if possible, to
+procure a bear or a stag. Three or four men came who were ready to go
+for a remuneration. One of them had but a few days before, met with
+two bears and their young, among the bilberry bushes, and shot two of
+them. I obtained from him a fine large skin of one of them, and
+several interesting stags' horns.
+
+The part of the country in which we now were was so lonely, wild, and
+grand, that we immediately took our fowling-pieces to ramble about.
+The Tobihanna,[41] over which is the above-mentioned bridge, thirty or
+forty paces in length,[42] is a pretty considerable stream, and the
+surrounding scenery is extremely picturesque. It is enclosed in rather
+high banks, overhung with fine, dark, primeval forests of Canadian
+pine trees, here called spruce fir, mixed with isolated trees of
+various kinds, and with a very close underwood of colossal
+_Rhododendron maximum_, thicker than a man's arm,[43] whose dense
+masses of foliage, with their dark green, laurel-like leaves hang down
+over the water, and are often mixed with the beautiful _Kalmia
+latifolia_. Even now, the appearance of this dark thicket on the bank
+was magnificent; how much more beautiful must it be when in blossom!
+The black forest of gigantic firs, crowded together, rises in awful
+gloom, here and there relieved by the light green foliage of other
+trees. These majestic pine forests have hitherto been visited by only
+a few settlers, and have escaped the great conflagrations which have
+deprived the skirts of these wooded mountains of part of their lofty
+stems. We were charmed with this North American wilderness, where
+Nature is, indeed, less vigorous, and poorer than in the hot climates,
+but still has a striking, though very different character of solemn
+and sublime grandeur. Mr. Bodmer immediately chose a place to sketch
+the above-mentioned beautiful brook, while the rest of our party
+strolled through the forest. Old decayed trees, often singularly
+hollowed, and roots of firs covered with moss, spreading over the
+surface in all directions, hindered us from penetrating far into this
+wilderness. A dark, damp shade received us here in the heat of the
+day, and the three-striped viper, of which there are [pg. 40] numbers
+under the old, decayed trunks, frequently fled as we advanced.
+Rattlesnakes are said to be less common than in the parts which we had
+before visited. Birds were not numerous in the deep recesses of these
+forests; only the hammering of the woodpeckers resounded in the awful
+wilderness. In places where there was much underwood, very thick stems
+of _rhododendron_, often from ten to twenty feet high, formed an
+intricate, impenetrable thicket. It was now perfectly dark, and we
+found the most beautiful natural arbours. The _Kalmia latifolia_, too,
+grew to the height of eight or ten feet. This country was so wild and
+attractive that I resolved to stop another day. To the north-east of
+the solitary dwelling of the Widow Sachs, was a fine beech forest,
+among the underwood of which pheasants were pretty numerous. We
+procured some of them, but I could not yet succeed in obtaining a stag
+or a bear.
+
+On the 28th of August we undertook an excursion to see the bear-trap,
+in which one of those animals had been caught two or three days
+before. The man who owned this trap lived on the road between
+Tonkhanna and the Tobihanna, both of which flow into the Lehigh. He
+had appointed his house for our rendezvous, where we saw the skin of
+the bear, lately taken, nailed up against the gable end to dry. The
+saw-mill of our bear-catcher lay in a rude valley, to the south-west
+of the road. We came to this saw-mill, in a solitary valley, on the
+Tonkhanna, which rushes, roaring and foaming over rocks covered with
+black moss, between old broken pines, in a true primeval wilderness.
+In this retreat for bears, prickly smilax, brambles, and other thorny
+plants, tear the strongest hunting dress, and leather alone resists
+these enemies. At every step we had to clamber over fallen trunks of
+trees, to the injury of our shins, which were almost always bleeding.
+We found our guide, who, though it poured of rain, took his rifle, and
+went before, to lead us to the bear-trap.
+
+The trap was in a place rather bare of thick stems, between young
+pines, and made of large logs, in such a manner that a young bear
+might be taken alive in it. It consisted of two round stems lying flat
+on the ground, between which two others, which are supported by a
+prop, are made to fit, and fall down when the prop is touched.[44] _a_
+is the base on which the two logs, _b_, rest; _c_, the two suspended
+logs, which fall as soon as the bear touches the bait, fixed in _e_,
+at the lower end of the rack _f_. The pole A, A, which is set in the
+rack _f_, rests in front on the prop _g_, and supports in _h_, by
+means of a withe, the logs _c_, _c_, _c_, _c_. When the bear touches
+the bait, the rack _f_ moves, the pole A, A, becomes free, and lets
+the logs _c_, _c_, _c_, _c_, fall, which catch or kill the animal. The
+whole is covered with green fir boughs when the trap is set, and all
+the parts must have their bark on. The bear caught here, some days
+before, was about a year old, so that there was room for him between
+the logs; and as he was not large, and had entered the trap in front
+and not from the side, his life was prolonged a little. He was shot in
+the trap, and his head used as a bait; we took the head away with us,
+and the owner of the trap substituted a piece of the animal's lungs in
+its stead.
+
+  [Illustration: Bear-trap]
+
+After a hasty sketch had been made of the bear-trap, we set out on our
+return; I very much regretted leaving the magnificent wilderness. On
+the way we found a fine viburnum, with large reddish leaves, and the
+_Oxalis acetosella_, which grew in abundance among the moss and
+decaying trunks of trees. The loud hammering of the woodpeckers
+resounded in this forest, and we shot the great spotted woodpecker of
+this country, which very much resembles our _Picus major_; for dinner
+we had bear's flesh, which we thought resembled mutton.
+
+When I returned to the house of Sachs, I found the hunters, whom I had
+hired, in no little confusion. One of them, in particular, after
+receiving his wages for the first day, had remained in the
+public-house the whole night and the following morning. Stretched at
+length on a table, he had slept off the effects of his drunken fit,
+talked big, and found here a willing audience, a number of drinkers of
+whisky being collected in this place. Brandy drinking is far more
+common among the lower classes in America than with us; and here, on
+the Pokono, this bad habit was peculiarly prevalent among the country
+people. Not far from Tobihanna Creek there was a small wooden house,
+ten or twelve feet square, with a little iron stove (see the view of
+the Tobihanna Bridge), in which a school was kept. The stalls for
+cattle, swine, and sheep, are, for the most part, cages, the bars of
+which being pretty wide apart, the cold winter wind blows freely
+through them; nay, many of them had half fallen to pieces. The swine,
+which ran about in great numbers, had a triangular yoke round their
+necks to hinder them from getting through the fences. In all this part
+of the country, garden vegetables are raised in beds, or rather boxes,
+filled with mould, elevated on four posts. The seeds are sown in these
+boxes, and the young plants not transplanted till they have acquired a
+certain growth, otherwise they would be destroyed by the insects.
+Maple sugar is not made here, because the tree does not grow in
+sufficient abundance. The [pg. 42] chief occupation of the settlers, in
+this part, is the making of shingles, which are manufactured from the
+Weymouth pine. We were assured, that these peasants steal the greater
+part of the wood for their shingles, in the forests belonging to
+greater landowners, who live at a distance, and have no keepers to
+protect their property. One workman can make in a day 300 or 400
+shingles, which are sold on the spot for half-a-dollar per 100. They
+are sent to all the neighbouring country, in large wagons drawn by
+four horses. At Bethlehem, forty-two miles from Pokono, the best
+shingles were sold, at that time, for eleven dollars per 1,000. These
+shingles are of two kinds; the German, made by Germans, who first
+manufactured them in this way, which are considered to be the best,
+and the English; the former are equally thick at both edges, the
+latter thicker at one side than the other. Many persons, whose horses
+are not otherwise employed, come here and fetch shingles.
+
+On the 29th of August we continued our journey through forests that
+extended, without interruption, on all sides. After crossing a bridge
+over the little brook called Two-miles-run, we came to an open spot in
+the forest, where the great village of Stoddartsville is built on the
+Lehigh, which at this place is still an inconsiderable stream. The
+environs of the place are still wild. Stumps of trees, cut or sawed
+off two or three feet from the ground, were everywhere seen, and this
+newly-cleared spot was still covered with wild plants. As you come
+down the hill, you look directly into the street of the place, to
+which some neat and pretty houses give a very striking effect in this
+wilderness. We continued our journey over wooded eminences, where
+bears and stags are said to be still numerous. Having passed Bear
+Creek and Ten-miles-run Creek, we soon reached the Pokono, or highest
+summit of the Blue Mountains, and began gradually to descend. In the
+forests through which we now passed, the firs began to give way to
+other timber trees, and the woods are again more burnt and ruined,
+frequently consisting only of shoots from the stumps of oaks,
+chestnuts, maples, and sassafras trees, with single pines everywhere
+rising above them, as the palms in Brazil do, above the lower
+_Dicotyledones_.
+
+On one of the next eminences, we came to another lofty point, whence
+we had the most extensive view, backwards and forwards, that we had
+yet enjoyed in these mountains. Towards the north-west lies the
+beautiful valley of Wyoming, through which the Susquehannah flows; and
+backwards, in the opposite direction, a rude prospect of wood and
+mountain, where peak rises above peak, and the eye ranges over an
+uninterrupted extent of immense forests. It is said to have been
+ascertained, by actual measurement, that this spot is 1,050 feet above
+the level of the Atlantic. Unfortunately, our time would not allow us
+to take a drawing of this grand prospect. From this place we began to
+descend into the valley of the Susquehannah, where the woods assume a
+more cheerful character, the firs being soon entirely succeeded by the
+oak, chestnut, and other timber trees. The road resembles an avenue,
+overshadowed by lofty oaks, tulip, chestnut, walnut, beech, hornbeam,
+birch, maple, elm, nyssa, and other trees, growing very close [pg. 43]
+together. Here we already see the formation of the conglomerate--the
+precursor of the coal district, which we now enter. When we had
+descended rather more than half way down the declivity of the
+mountain, we were taken about 200 paces to the right of the road, to
+be surprised by the beautiful prospect of the valley of Wyoming, or
+the Susquehannah. A group of rocks of conglomerate rises, isolated in
+the forest, and, on ascending it, you have a magnificent view. The
+broad and extensive valley, covered with towns and detached houses,
+alternates agreeably with forests and fields; the river flows through
+its whole length, and at our feet lay the pretty town of Wilkesbarre,
+the streets of which we could overlook. It is manifest, at a glance,
+that the whole of the valley was formerly covered with a thick
+primeval forest, for strips of wood everywhere traverse the fields.
+
+Proceeding on our journey we came to a solitary public-house, where we
+met with a rattlesnake. I bought it, and it was put into brandy, as a
+live creature of this kind is not the most agreeable travelling
+companion. This snake had been kept three weeks in a box, and had not
+taken any nourishment whatever, so that it moved its rattle but
+faintly when it was irritated. As it was a very large and handsome
+specimen, I paid two dollars and a half for it. The landlady, a very
+corpulent personage, was in a very light morning dress when she
+concluded the bargain with me, and not being able to give me change,
+she immediately threw on her Sunday clothes, to follow our carriage on
+foot, and settle the account at Wilkesbarre. Her head was adorned with
+a large fashionable straw hat; she had a silk gown, and a silk
+parasol, which she might very well have spared, protected her tanned
+face from the sun. It was remarkable that, heavy as she was, she
+reached the town as soon as we did, though we had half a league to go.
+Wilkesbarre, in Lucerne county, is a place with about 1,200
+inhabitants, with three churches, a court-house, a bank, &c.[45] The
+streets are pretty regular, and the buildings separated by gardens and
+intermediate spaces. The place has its singular name from the first
+settlers, who were called Wilkes and Barre. The population consists of
+handicraftsmen, field labourers, storekeepers, and merchants; and
+several of the inhabitants are interested in the important coal mines,
+situated to the west of the road which we had taken. This bed of coals
+is said to extend fourteen miles along the slope of the valley of the
+Susquehannah, and then to continue over other eminences, of which
+there will be occasion to speak in the sequel. For the purpose of
+conveying the coals by water, a canal has been dug, which was not
+quite completed, and which is to form a communication between the coal
+mines and the Susquehannah. On the other side of the river the great
+Pennsylvania canal is already finished, which connects Pennsylvania
+with Maryland by means of the Susquehannah.[46] This last canal, which
+is divided into several parts, will be continued to Baltimore, the
+chief seaport, but it is not yet quite completed. Pennsylvania is
+already intersected by numerous canals, which connect the rivers, and
+are of the highest importance by the facilities they afford to inland
+trade.
+
+[pg. 44] The inn at which we put up at Wilkesbarre was kept by a German,
+named Christ, who recommended to our notice some interesting points in
+the environs; and we, therefore, did not take the usual road at the
+bottom of the valley, but soon turned aside from the Susquehannah,
+into a wild, lateral valley, in which there are fine waterfalls. At
+less than a league from Wilkesbarre, we reached, at the foot of the
+mountain, a wild, thickly-wooded ravine, where we soon heard the
+roaring of Solomon Creek. Near a mill, the owner of which is General
+Ross,[47] this stream forms some highly picturesque cascades over
+smooth, perpendicular black rocks, covered with moss, forming a basin
+below, in a thick forest of pine and other timber. There are two
+cascades, one above the other, of which the second is the largest;
+then comes the last and highest, where the water, conducted from the
+mill directly across the ravine, falls perpendicularly, about the
+height of a house, over a steep rock. It was, unfortunately, too late,
+when we arrived, to make a drawing of this interesting scene. We asked
+for accommodation for the night in the mill, which is a roomy house;
+but our countryman (this man's mother was born in Germany) could not,
+or would not, receive us. They gave us some of the water of the stream
+to drink, which had a strong taste of iron and sulphur. As it was not
+possible to find a lodging in the neighbourhood, we were advised to
+proceed three miles to the top of the mountain, which we, indeed,
+accomplished, but had nearly had reason to repent of our resolution.
+
+The road ascends on the left rocky bank of Solomon Creek, in a thick
+forest, over rough ground, so that we constantly had the steep
+precipice on the right hand. There was no room for two carriages to
+pass; luckily, carriages are rare in this remote wilderness. As we had
+been told that there was abundance of wild animals, we loaded our
+fowling-pieces with ball. We now turned to ascend in a wooded defile,
+where a couple of solitary miserable dwellings, built of trunks of
+trees, scarcely left room for a small field or a little garden
+overgrown with weeds. While the road became more and more rude, and
+obstructed by the vegetation, twilight set in, and it was only with
+the greatest efforts that our horses could draw the carriages among
+rocks and fallen trunks of trees, and nothing but the greatest care
+prevented them from being overturned. We met several peasants, with
+their axes and guns, returning from their work in the woods: they
+were robust, savage-looking, powerful men, whose sudden appearance in
+such a lonely spot might elsewhere have excited suspicion. There are
+no robbers in these parts; at least, I never heard of any, but it must
+be owned that the place is extremely well suited to them. The
+beautiful cardinal flower (_Lobelia cardinalis_) grew in such
+abundance in the swampy parts of the wood, as to form a fine red
+carpet. The _Chelone obliqua_, with its white flowers, was likewise
+very common.
+
+At length the moon rose bright and clear to relieve us from our
+unpleasant situation, and cheered by her friendly beams the gloomy
+path of the wanderer. When we reached the summit the road divided into
+two branches, of which we were so lucky as to choose the right one. At
+[pg. 45] length, about nine in the evening, we had the pleasure of
+seeing a light; and a lonely house, in an open spot, lay before us. On
+our knocking, the door was slowly opened. We entered a poor hut, where
+two women--one an elderly person, the other younger--were sitting by
+the fireside. The master of the house, whose name was Wright, was not
+at home. The two women were very tall, and were smoking, quite at
+their ease, small clay pipes. They were not a little surprised at so
+late a visit, but soon stirred up the fire, and set on water. Our
+frugal supper, consisting of coffee and potatoes, was soon finished,
+and we lay down in our clothes on tolerable beds, placed in a large
+unfurnished room, which in this country are almost always made for two
+persons. This house belongs to Hanover township; the settlement itself
+had not yet any name. Only English was spoken here. Not far from the
+house the Wapalpi Creek ran through the thickets towards the ravine.
+
+The night was soon passed, and at six in the morning we proceeded on
+our journey. In order to take a view of the Falls of Solomon Creek,
+Mr. Bodmer left us, and returned to the mill, with the intention of
+joining us again at Bethlehem, by taking another road. John Wright,
+brother to our host, lived three miles off, in a little rude valley,
+where we intended to breakfast. Some men, who were going to
+hay-making, with their guns and dogs, met us. The inhabitants of these
+woods generally take their guns when they go to their work, as they
+frequently have opportunities of killing some large game. They have
+powerful dogs, resembling our German bloodhounds, brown or black, with
+red marks; or striped like the wolf, and sometimes, but seldom, their
+ears are cropped. These dogs are used in chasing the bear or the stag.
+
+In a romantic wooded valley we reached the solitary dwelling of John
+Wright, where we halted. The mistress of the house, who, with a little
+boy, was alone at home, gave us a very friendly reception, and
+prepared us a breakfast with coffee; all very clean and good for this
+retired spot. In the course of conversation we learned that she was of
+German descent, and born at Tomaqua.[48] She lived here in a pretty
+roomy log-house, with a chimney and iron stove; yet she said that in
+winter it was often very cold in the room, the walls of which were,
+indeed, not quite air-tight. In many rooms in these mountains we found
+two iron stoves. Leaving these scattered dwellings of Hanover
+township, we reached, in five hours, the Nescopeck Valley, eleven
+miles from our last night's quarters, the road to which is bad, little
+frequented, and in part stony, gently ascending and descending, and
+passing through ruined forests, such as have already been described.
+In some places the wood is thicker, in others the sides of the
+mountains had been quite cleared, and were covered with young shoots
+and some higher trees; small streams, here called runs, flow in the
+defiles and valleys; the bridges of beams over which were, for the
+most part, so rotten, [pg. 46] and in such bad condition, that horses
+and carriages could not pass without danger. We saw no human beings or
+dwellings on this road, nor any animals except some small birds and
+frogs. After this rather monotonous journey, we were glad to descend
+into the Nescopeck Valley, and reached it, at the mill of one Bug, of
+German descent, where we refreshed ourselves with milk and brandy. The
+Nescopeck Creek, a pretty considerable stream, which turns several
+mills, flows through this beautiful wooded valley. This district
+belongs to Sugarloaf township, in Lucerne county.
+
+After we had watered our horses, and the miller had questioned us
+about his native Germany, we crossed the bridge over the stream,
+ascended the mountain on the other side, and reached an inn on the
+summit, from which it is eighteen miles to Wilkesbarre. Proceeding
+from this place, we crossed the valley of the little Nescopeck Creek,
+which is covered with lofty trees, then passed the little Black Creek,
+and afterwards came to a high mountain wall, with a beautiful wood of
+various forest trees, which the inhabitants, who are mostly of German
+origin, call the Bocksberg. German is everywhere spoken here.
+
+From the mill, the way leads through a thick underwood of shrub-like
+oaks, with a few higher trees, and we soon reached the high road from
+Berwick, in the Susquehannah Valley, along which we proceeded to Mauch
+Chunk, where two stage-coaches pass daily.
+
+We took this road, and soon came to an inn, kept by a German named
+Anders, who likewise had a saw-mill. The host had, a short time
+before, caught an old she-bear in a trap, and in the three following
+days her three cubs, which he sold to travellers passing that way. The
+point where we now were is called the Hasel Swamp; and, proceeding
+onwards, we passed Pismire Hill, where rattlesnakes are said to
+abound. We observed, too late, a very large animal of this kind dead
+in the road, one of the wheels of our carriage having crushed the head
+of the snake, which was otherwise in a good state of preservation. My
+driver laid it in a natural position by the road-side, and I have no
+doubt that it was again knocked on the head by some other traveller.
+The marshy tract through which the Beaver Creek flows, is called
+Beaver Meadow, and is covered with willow bushes. It is probable that
+beavers may have formerly been numerous here, at least the place is
+quite suited to them; but those harmless animals have been long since
+extirpated. We came next to a considerable eminence, called Spring
+Mountain, which we ascended, and then rapidly descended, always
+through a thick forest, where we observed, on both sides of the way,
+the Grauwacke formation. On reaching the bottom of Spring Mountain we
+entered a wide valley, both the steep sides and bottom of which are
+covered with thick woods, only thinned a little round the habitations.
+In the middle of the valley, directly before us, six or seven
+buildings, in a broad street, formed the village of Lausanne, five or
+six hundred paces below which the Quackack Brook flows through the
+valley. A Jew keeps here a public-house and shop, where we met
+likewise with newspapers.
+
+[pg. 47] Beyond Lausanne is a high mountain, called Broad Mountain, up
+which the road is carried in an oblique direction. Trees and shrubs
+form everywhere a very thick but ruined forest, in which there is
+scarcely any serviceable timber. The view back over the extensive and
+wild valley of Lausanne was extremely interesting. One can hardly
+fancy this sublime and rude country without its aboriginal red
+inhabitants. The wide and hollow valley is everywhere covered with
+dense forests; and the little village of Lausanne is scarcely to be
+seen amidst the dark green foliage. On the Broad Mountain we find
+again the same formation of conglomerate, which I have before
+mentioned; the beds of coal are at a small distance. On the side which
+we descended the wood is more beautiful, the trees taller than on the
+edge of the mountain; oaks, chestnuts, and other trees, were very
+vigorous and luxuriant. Several planters have formed detached
+settlements here, among whom an Irishman was pointed out to us, who
+had lately been arrested on an accusation of murder, but had been
+since set at liberty.
+
+The Neskihone or Neskihoning Valley, into which we now descended, is
+wide, and enclosed by very high, far-extending walls of rock,
+everywhere covered with thick woods, in which some small cultivated
+patches are here and there seen. Along the right, or southern wall, an
+iron railroad has been laid down, which forms a communication between
+one of the coal mines of the Mauch Chunk Company, on the Rumrun Creek,
+and Mauch Chunk. It runs down into the valley of the Lehigh, which it
+follows to the last-named place. The appearance of the valley is very
+wild and picturesque; the Neskihone, which you pass at a saw-mill,
+flows at the bottom of it, and then turns to the left into the
+beautiful valley of the Lehigh, into which the Neskihone empties
+itself. The Lehigh comes on the left hand, out of a deep, extremely
+wild mountain valley, or dark glen, the entrance to which is entirely
+concealed by lofty, steep wooded mountains. Its glassy surface shines,
+half hid by tall shady oaks, beeches, and chestnuts; and the whole is
+one of the most interesting scenes that I met with in Pennsylvania.
+The road from this place to the Lehigh Valley is agreeably shaded by
+high trees, and on the banks of the river there are several
+dwelling-houses and inns. In a quarter of an hour we reached Mauch
+Chunk, now celebrated as the central point of the Lehigh coal
+district.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[38] The Lehigh Navigation Company, chartered August 10, 1818, was
+consolidated in 1820 with the Lehigh Coal Company, and since 1821 has
+been known as the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. Temporary
+navigation of the Lehigh River being opened by 1820, coal was floated
+down to the Delaware and thence to Philadelphia, where the scows were
+broken up. In 1827 the company began the construction of a canal which
+by 1829 was completed between Mauch Chunk and Easton. A line to White
+Haven was opened (1835), and to Stoddartsville (1838). In 1827 there
+was opened the Mauch Chunk (gravity) Railroad, the second of its kind
+in the United States, being in 1828 extended to Room Run and the
+Beaver Meadow region; in 1840 the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad was
+completed by the same company. In July, 1825, the Morris Canal and
+Banking Company, under a charter of the preceding year, commenced work
+on a twenty-mile canal between the Delaware and Newark, New Jersey,
+and completed it in 1831. Later the canal was extended to Jersey City,
+a distance of eleven miles.--ED.
+
+[39] When found by Europeans, the Delaware Indians were living in
+detached bands along the Delaware River. A tribe of the Algonquian
+family, they comprised three powerful clans--the Turtle, Turkey, and
+Wolf--see Post's _Journals_ in our volume i, p. 220, note 57. By 1753
+a portion of the tribe had migrated to the Ohio, and by 1786 all had
+settled west of the Allegheny Mountains. They had aided Pontiac in his
+attack upon Fort Pitt, and allied themselves with the English during
+the Revolutionary War. Defeated, they established themselves along the
+banks of the Huron River in Ohio and in Canada. Neutral during the War
+of 1812-15, they sold their lands to the United States and occupied a
+reservation along White River, in Indiana. By subsequent treaties the
+Delaware were removed to Missouri, Kansas, and Texas; and in 1867 they
+were incorporated among the Cherokee, and stationed with the latter in
+Indian Territory.--ED.
+
+[40] Copious springs issuing from the white sand.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[41] The names of all these rivers, streams, and many places, are, for
+the most part, harmonious with many vowels, and are derived from the
+ancient Delaware or Lenni-lappe language. _Tobihanna_ means alder
+brook. See Duponceau, in the Transactions of the American
+Philosophical Society, vol. iv. part iii. page 351, on the names from
+the Delaware languages still current in Pennsylvania, Maryland, New
+Jersey, and Virginia.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[42] See Plate 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[43] The wood of this shrub is extremely solid and hard.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[44] See p. 107, for illustration of bear-trap.--ED.
+
+[45] Wilkes-Barre, seat of Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, and eighteen
+miles southwest of Scranton, was laid out in 1769 and named jointly
+for John Wilkes and Colonel Barre, members of the British parliament.
+The town is near the famous "mammoth vein," of anthracite coal,
+nineteen million tons of which were mined in the vicinity of
+Wilkes-Barre in 1900. The census report for that year exhibited a
+population of 51,721.--ED.
+
+[46] The Susquehanna and Tide Water Canal Company was a consolidation
+of the Susquehanna Canal Company of Pennsylvania, and the Tide Water
+Canal Company of Maryland. It was encouraged by both states, Maryland
+lending it credit to the amount of a million dollars. It was opened in
+1840. See Henry V. Poor, _History of the Railroads and Canals of the
+United States_ (New York, 1860), p. 552.
+
+In 1840 the total mileage of canals in Pennsylvania was twelve hundred
+and eighty; of which four hundred and thirty-two were owned by private
+companies; the total mileage of railroads in the same year was seven
+hundred and ninety-five. See Henry F. Walling and O. W. Gray, _New
+Topographical Atlas of the State of Pennsylvania_ (Philadelphia,
+1872), p. 30.--ED.
+
+[47] The executive council of Philadelphia presented General William
+Ross with a costly sword for his "gallant services of July 4, 1788,"
+in rescuing Colonel Pickering from kidnappers. Ross was later made
+general of the militia, and in 1812 elected to the state senate from
+the district of Northumberland and Luzerne; he died (1842) at the age
+of eighty-two.--ED.
+
+[48] Tomaqua lies in the coal district at the end of the little
+Schuylkill Valley, near Tuscarora. In this country the discovery of the
+coal has caused agriculture to be neglected, and thousands of people
+are said to have been ruined by unsuccessful speculations.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+DESCRIPTION OF MAUCH CHUNK AND ITS COAL MINES--JOURNEY THROUGH THE
+LEHIGH VALLEY TO BETHLEHEM, AND LAST RESIDENCE IN THAT TOWN, FROM
+AUGUST 31ST TO SEPTEMBER 16TH
+
+   Mauch Chunk--The Coal Mines--Lehighton--Mahoning Creek and
+   Valley--Gnadenh�tten, a destroyed Colony of the Moravian
+   Brethren--Weissport--Lehigh Gap--The Devil's
+   Pulpit--Berlin--Crytersville--Howard Town--Schoner's Town--Last
+   Residence in Bethlehem.
+
+
+Mauch Chunk is a village of about 200 houses, in the deep and narrow
+Lehigh Valley. The houses form almost one row only, and a small street
+in the lateral valley of the Mauch Chunk stream. This place has sprung
+up since the discovery of the very rich coal mines in the vicinity.
+The Lehigh Company employs from 800 to 1000 workmen, and supplies the
+whole surrounding country with the very fine coals obtained here.
+Several iron railroads, leading to the works, have already been made,
+canals dug to export the coals in numerous barges, great works
+erected, a large and capital inn established in the valley of the
+Lehigh, and mills of various kinds built; and travellers ought by no
+means to neglect this highly interesting spot. This deep and wild
+valley, which is enclosed on every side by wooded mountains from 800
+to 1000 feet high, has become, within a few years, a scene of action
+and profitable industry, which will soon render this spot one of the
+most remarkable in Pennsylvania. The principal work, to which an iron
+railroad has been made, lies on a considerable eminence, nine miles
+from Mauch Chunk. On the 31st of August, we visited this interesting
+spot.
+
+As the railroad runs up along the declivity, it has been necessary to
+cut it obliquely; it is, therefore, narrow, with only one line; and
+places, at certain intervals, to allow two carriages to pass. For the
+convenience of travellers who wish to see the works, a stage-coach has
+been established, which is drawn up by two horses. Our company
+assembled at the inn, and ascended, by a steep path, from the town, to
+the iron railroad, which runs a little above the village. The [pg. 49]
+railroad stages are light carriages, with four low wheels, and seats
+for eight persons; they are covered at top, and open at the sides. The
+wheels are of iron, and have a groove, which fits into the rail, and
+runs upon it. The driver sits in front, and has a long tin horn, which
+he blows, to announce his approach to such as may be coming in the
+opposite direction; in the other hand he holds, in the descent, the
+machine with which the carriage is stopped when necessary. This
+contrivance consists of a pole, at the lower end of which there is a
+stuffed leather cushion, which, by moving the pole, is brought close
+to the wheels, and by its friction checks the rapidity of the motion.
+As a train of coal-wagons was expected, we slackened our pace. The two
+stages were fastened together, and though both were quite full of
+passengers, a couple of horses drew them up with great ease. We had
+not proceeded far, when we heard the rolling of a train of
+coal-wagons. It was interesting to see the black train advance, and
+dart by us with the rapidity of an arrow. These are built of strong
+beams and planks; each contains two tons of coals, and forty-five
+wagons go at the same time, which carry 90 tons; they run five times a
+day, thus 450 tons, or 25,200 bushels, are brought down to Mauch Chunk
+daily. Every fifteen wagons are fastened together by strong iron
+bands, and in the middle of this train is a man who holds a chain in
+his hand, by means of which he can check the rapidity of the motion,
+or even stop it entirely. Four or five hundred paces behind the first
+column comes the second, and then, at an equal distance, the third,
+and after these, seven wagons, in each of which there are four mules,
+with provender, and a bridge for them to get in and out. Their heads
+are turned to the front, and they eat quietly, as they descend. These
+mules are to draw up the empty coal wagons.
+
+It was interesting to see the thundering column approach us, and then
+hasten by. As soon as it had passed, our horses trotted up the
+mountain, which could not be attempted, except on an iron railroad.
+The road runs along the rocky wall, always through a forest, where
+single settlers have here and there built their little wooden
+dwellings. Cattle were feeding in the neighbourhood, whose bells we
+heard in the woods. The valley at our left hand was very wild and
+romantic. Both the high mountain and the valley below, in which the
+Mauch Chunk flows, are clothed with a forest of fir and other timber,
+and wild vines twine about the bushes by the road-side. The number of
+miles is marked on white boards nailed to the trees. When we reached
+the top we came to an inn, which had a small park with Virginian deer.
+The fawns of these deer were still spotted a little at the end of
+August.
+
+As soon as our company had rested a little, and taken some
+refreshment, as it was very hot, we got again into our carriage, and
+proceeded, this time without horses, to the coal mines, about ten
+minutes from our inn, to which the railroad declines a little. You
+reach these interesting works by a deep section of the upper stratum
+of sandstone, and then enter the pits, which may be 300 paces long,
+150 wide, and 30 feet deep; quite open at top, having been gradually
+sunk to that depth. 112 men were at work in and about these mines, and
+130 mules were employed [pg. 50] in conveying the coals, which stand
+out, shining, and with a beautiful play of colours; in some places
+they are of better quality than in others. They are detached partly
+with iron crows, partly by gunpowder, broken into pieces with
+pickaxes, and loaded in the wagons. From one part of the mine to
+another there are little railroads, on which boxes with four wheels
+run like what is called the dog (_hund_), in our German mines, in
+which refuse and rubbish are removed. In this manner high heaps of
+rubbish have arisen about the pits, which extend further and further
+into the valley. In some parts of the works there are impressions of
+antediluvian plants, of which we found some interesting specimens. The
+labour of seeking, in a stooping attitude, was particularly
+disagreeable on this day, which was hotter than any that preceded it.
+When we returned from the works to our inn, the thermometer, at twelve
+o'clock, and in the house, was at 96�; to which we must add that the
+mine is 1,460 feet above the level of the sea. There was not a breath
+of air stirring, and everybody found the heat extremely oppressive.
+
+To return to Mauch Chunk we again got into our carriage, but had now
+no need of horses; the driver shoved the carriage a few steps, leaped
+into his seat, and we immediately proceeded faster than a horse could
+gallop. We had travelled the greater part of the way in seventeen
+minutes, when we were obliged to halt, in order to let a train of
+wagons, returning, pass us, which detained us about twenty minutes; we
+then proceeded with the rapidity of an arrow, and travelled the whole
+distance of eight miles in thirty-two minutes. When we had reached the
+bottom we hastened to see the place where the wagons are unloaded.
+
+At the end of the iron railroad is a building on the eminence, in
+which there is a large windlass, with an endless rope, which with one
+part lowers a loaded coal wagon, on an obliquely inclined iron
+railroad, down the mountain, while the other part draws up an empty
+wagon from below. The distance from the windlass to the place on the
+iron railway, where the wagons deposit the coals in a large shed, is
+above 700 feet.[49] The mechanism of all these works is well worth
+seeing, and the whole establishment extremely interesting. Mr. White,
+one of the principal members of the Lehigh Company, is a man of much
+and varied knowledge, and particularly well acquainted with
+machinery.[50] He has erected a saw-mill on the Lehigh, the
+construction of which is very ingenious. A single workman is able to
+saw 4,000 square feet of deal in twelve hours. The Company requires
+six such saw-mills in the Mauch Chunk, to saw the wood that it wants,
+because the coal barges are sent down the canal and the Delaware, and
+sold at Philadelphia as planks.
+
+The road from Mauch Chunk through the Lehigh Valley, which we took, on
+the 31st of August, in the evening, is agreeable and diversified. A
+violent thunder-storm had passed over the valley, and had poured down
+torrents of rain, the traces of which were everywhere visible. We
+proceeded along the right bank of the river, in a rather sandy road,
+shaded by old trees. On [pg. 51] our right hand we had at first the
+steep wooded mountain, where _Rubus odoratus_ and other beautiful
+plants grew amongst rude rocks. The mountains then recede, and fields,
+meadows, and detached dwellings, succeed.
+
+We came to Lehighton, where the sign of the inn was conspicuous afar
+off.[51] Lehighton is situated at no great distance from the opening
+of the Mahoning Valley, from which the Mahoning stream flows. This
+valley is wooded, has many settlements, and is well known from the
+destruction of Gnadenh�tten, a small establishment, founded there by
+the Moravian Brethren. Some Delaware Indians, instigated, it is said,
+by neighbouring colonists, who were hostile to the Brethren, attacked
+the settlement, which they burnt, and killed eleven persons. Only four
+of the fifteen who composed the little colony escaped.[52] Mr. Bodmer,
+who followed us from Wilkesbarre, visited the spot. He found among the
+bushes the tomb-stone which covers the remains of the victims, and
+made a drawing of it. The following is the inscription:--
+
+     TO THE MEMORY
+     OF
+     GOTTLIEB AND CHRISTINA ANDERS,
+     WITH THEIR CHILD JOHANNA;
+     MARTIN AND SUSANNAH NITSCHMANN;
+     ANN CATHARINE SENSEMANN;
+     LEONHARD GATTERMEYER;
+     CHRISTIAN FABRICIUS, CLERK;
+     GEORGE SCHWEIGERT;
+     JOHN FREDERIC LESLY; AND
+     MARTIN PRESSER;
+     WHO LIVED HERE AT GNADENH�TTEN, UNTO THE LORD,
+     AND LOST THEIR LIVES IN A SURPRISE FROM
+     INDIAN WARRIORS,
+     NOVEMBER 24TH, 1755.
+     "_Precious in the sight of the Lord is the death of his Saints._"
+     PSALM CXVI. 15.
+
+     1788, AND. W. BOVER, PHILADELPHIA.
+
+On the lands at Gnadenh�tten, which still belong to the Brethren,
+several farmers reside, among whom there is a singular female of no
+ordinary education, and, as it is said, of high rank, [pg. 52] whose
+real name is not known. She is said to have come from Germany, it is
+supposed from the principality of Lippe. Her sole employment is
+agriculture; she performs all manual labour herself, milks her cows,
+to which she has given names, and which she has tamed. She has rented
+a piece of land from the Brethren, which Mr. Von Schweinitz, as
+director of the council, let to her.
+
+Near the issue of the Mahoning, or Mahony Valley, a wooden bridge has
+been built, in a picturesque situation, over the Lehigh. It is
+surrounded on all sides by fine lofty trees, and on the right hand the
+wooded eminences of the Mahony Valley overlook it. From this place we
+came to a level, open part of the valley, where a few scattered
+dwellings bear the name of Weissport.[53] A man named Weiss proposed
+to build a town here, and had collected the names of many subscribers,
+but the town consists, at present, of only four detached houses.
+
+Night set in, and the moon showed us, in the Blue Mountains before us,
+a deep cleft, called the Lehigh, or Lecha Gap, where that river passes
+through the mountain chain. At the Gap we halted at an isolated, but
+very good inn, kept by a man named Craig, son of the General of that
+name. He spoke both English and German, and we were very well
+accommodated in his house.
+
+On the 1st of September we visited the Lehigh Gap, the mountains on
+the north side of which are low, rocky, and wooded. A projecting
+portion is called the Devil's Rock. Near the buildings there are great
+heaps of limestone thrown up, which is obtained from a mountain in the
+Mahony Valley. The lime is of bad quality, but serves very well for
+mortar. It contains a number of small bivalve shells. About eight
+o'clock we left the Lehigh Gap, and took the road to Bethlehem, where
+we arrived at noon, having passed through Berlin, Cryterville, Howard
+Town, and Schoner's Town.
+
+Our baggage, which we had so long expected from Boston, arrived at
+length on the 4th of September, and as Mr. Bodmer rejoined us on the
+10th, I should have thought of proceeding on our journey, did not the
+traveller often depend on accidents, which render it impossible to fix
+anything for certain. Mr. Bodmer, desiring to finish a drawing that he
+had begun, undertook a second visit to the Delaware Gap, and on this
+occasion was severely wounded by the bursting of his fowling-piece,
+which compelled us again to defer our departure. On our hunting
+excursions, we now saw the country in its autumnal dress. Night frosts
+had already set in, and the mornings were foggy, till the sun had
+risen pretty high, when a hot day followed. Most of the birds of
+passage were gone; no swallows were to be seen, and the wild pigeons
+passed by in large flocks. On a walk to Allentown,[54] the capital of
+Lehigh County, which has 1,700 inhabitants, three churches, and a
+court-house, six miles from Bethlehem, we found, in the Lehigh Valley,
+several flocks of birds ready to depart. The blue birds (_Sylvia
+sialis_) were assembled, twenty together. The yellow woodpecker and
+the nuthatch were hovering about the gardens and fields, where [pg. 53]
+numbers were collected together. The plants that were in blossom in
+the fields and hedges were chiefly of the class _Syngenesia_.
+
+The accounts of the progress of the cholera, which we daily received,
+were not favourable. In New York and Philadelphia, and more especially
+at Baltimore, the disorder was extremely dangerous; it had also spread
+in the country about the great lakes, and on Hudson's River, and had
+extended from Detroit to the Mississippi and Ohio. It seemed
+impossible to avoid it; I therefore chose the route down the Ohio,
+intending to make the Mississippi, in the following spring, the basis
+of our excursions into the Western wilds or the Indian country. We
+took leave of our friends at Bethlehem, and set out in the first
+instance for Pittsburg.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[49] See Plate 5, in accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[50] Josiah White, early interested in mechanics, purchased an estate
+on the Schuylkill, five miles above Philadelphia, constructed a dam
+across the river, and erected there a wire mill. Later, he sought a
+contract for furnishing Philadelphia with water by means of power
+generated at this dam. After long negotiations the city purchased the
+plant, belonging to White and Gillingham, his partner, and constructed
+the Fairmount water works. White, together with Erskine Hazard, then
+directed his activities to the Lehigh coal fields, and became the
+active promoter of the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. White
+resided at Mauch Chunk from 1818 to 1831, and then moved to
+Philadelphia where he died (1850) at the age of seventy. His name is
+inseparably connected with the canal system of Pennsylvania; see
+_History of the Counties of Lehigh and Carbon_ (Philadelphia, 1884),
+p. 670.--ED.
+
+[51] Lehighton--a corruption of the Delaware, Lechauwekink, "where
+there are forks"--is a post borough in Carbon County, Pennsylvania, on
+the west bank of the Lehigh, twenty-five miles above Allentown. It was
+laid out in 1794 on the lands of Jacob Weiss and William Henry, and
+the population in 1900 is reported as 4,269.--ED.
+
+[52] Loskiel, in his history of the Indian Missions (pp. 415 and 416),
+gives the following account of this affair. "On the 24th of November,
+1755, the house of the Indian Missionaries in Gnadenh�tten, on the
+Mahony, was attacked in the evening by hostile Indians, and burnt.
+Eleven persons perished: _viz._, nine in the flames, one of the
+brethren was shot, and another cruelly butchered, and then scalped.
+Three brethren, and one sister (the wife of one of them), and a boy,
+escaped by flight; the woman and the boy, by a fortunate leap from the
+burning roof. One of those who escaped, the Missionary Sensemann, who,
+at the beginning of the attack, had gone out of the back door to see
+what might be the cause of the violent barking of the dogs, and who of
+course was not able to return to those whom he had left in the house,
+had the affliction to see his wife perish in the flames."--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Gnadenh�tten was a mission established (1746) by the
+Moravians for their converts among the Delaware Indians; it was placed
+under the charge of Martin Mack.
+
+[53] Weissport is today a village of more than six hundred
+inhabitants, four miles southeast of Mauch Chunk. It was laid out by
+Colonel Jacob Weiss and his brother Francis.--ED.
+
+[54] Allentown, the seat of Lehigh County, sixteen miles southwest of
+Easton, was laid out (1752) by William Allen, chief justice of
+Pennsylvania. In 1811 it was incorporated with the borough of
+Northampton, but in 1838 reverted to its old name. Allentown is today
+one of the chief seats of furniture-making in the United States, and
+second only to Paterson in production of American silk. Its population
+in 1900 was 35,416.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+JOURNEY FROM BETHLEHEM TO PITTSBURG, OVER THE ALLEGHANYS, FROM
+SEPTEMBER 17TH TO OCTOBER 7TH
+
+   Allentown--Reading--Lebanon--Harrisburg--Mexico--Mifflin
+   Town--Valley of the Juniata--Huntington--Alexandria--Yellow
+   Springs--The Summit--Ebensburg--Hunting parties--Wild Scenery of
+   the Alleghanys--Laurel Hills--Conomaugh Valley--Blairsville--New
+   Alexandria on the Loyalhanna--Pittsburg--Situation of the
+   Town--Economy, Mr. Rapp's Settlement on the Ohio--Remarkable
+   natural productions of that river.
+
+
+Violent thunder-storms, accompanied with heavy rains, had taken place
+during the night before I left Bethlehem, early in the morning of the
+17th, with the stage from Easton to Reading. Mr. Bodmer remained
+behind for some days, on account of the injury done to his hand. At
+day-break we reached Allentown, where we changed both carriage and
+horses, and passed the Cedar Creek, which was much swollen. The
+thunder-storm had not changed the temperature of the air. All this
+country was covered with plantations of maize, clover, and buckwheat,
+and detached farm-houses were numerous. The clover was often sown, as
+among us, with the corn. The ears of the maize were partly cut off,
+and the stalks tied up in bundles. The maize becomes ripe here in
+October. We halted very often at the post-houses, where the horses are
+always watered. As soon as the stage arrives, the large leather bag
+containing the letters is thrown down, and the correspondence for
+places further on the road is put in. We were here on a calcareous
+soil, and many limekilns were burning in the neighbourhood. Flocks of
+birds, of many kinds, appeared ready to depart; _Papilio plexippus_
+flew about the hedges. The _Datura_, with purple blossoms, and the
+_Phytolacea_, with ripe black berries, dark red stems and branches,
+grow on the road-side, and about the houses.[55] The leaves of the
+sumach, and of some kinds of oak and maple, had already [pg. 55] changed
+to a beautiful red colour. The fallow fields were entirely covered
+with the yellow blossoms of the golden rod, or St. John's wort, and
+beautiful asters, mostly with small white or purple flowers. The
+farm-houses in this part of the country are remarkably handsome. The
+barns are built of stone, very large, and have, in the lower part, the
+stables, with eight or twelve doors and windows, and over this is the
+barn, properly so called. At the end of the building there is a
+passage where the wagons stand under cover; the windows, doors and
+roof are frequently painted of a reddish brown colour: cattle of all
+kinds surround these farms. The swine are very fat, have broad hanging
+ears, and are generally marked with small round black spots, and
+sometimes, but more rarely, they are reddish brown. We saw some fine
+forests of oak and walnut trees, among which is much hickory (_Juglans
+alba_), which, next to the white oak, and the black walnut tree,
+furnishes the best timber. In general this country resembles Germany:
+it is diversified and pleasant; wooded eminences on the sides, and
+bright green meadows, often kept in very good order, occur as in our
+country; but large, new habitations, built in rather a different
+style, the zigzag fences, and the more lofty and luxuriant growth of
+the trees, give, on the whole, another character to the scenery.
+
+In Maxatawny township we addressed the inhabitants in the German
+language, who answered us at once in the same, and we heard German
+names all the way to Pittsburg. After passing Sackoma Creek, we
+arrived at ten o'clock at Kutztown, eighteen miles from Bethlehem,
+where we breakfasted. The heat being very great, the dust was
+extremely annoying, for the thunder-storm, which had passed over
+Bethlehem, had not extended to this part of the country. The cattle
+sought protection against the sun, in the shade of single trees, or in
+the orchards. Large stacks of corn, six, eight, or ten together, stood
+in rows by the fences. On the right hand ran the Oli Mountains,
+beautiful verdant wooded eminences, which are connected with the
+Lehigh Mountains. About noon we had travelled the thirty-six miles to
+Reading, where we were obliged to stop one day, because the stage had
+already left.
+
+Reading is a very pretty town on the Schuylkill, with 6,000 or 7,000
+inhabitants; it has seven churches, and a new one was just then
+building. There are about 400 negroes and people of colour. Some of
+the streets were not paved in the middle, but have on the sides a
+pavement of bricks for the foot passengers, planted with acacias,
+planes, poplars, and other trees. All these towns are rapidly
+increasing. The cholera had already carried off many persons here, but
+the inhabitants would not confess this. We saw a funeral procession
+returning home, in which there were several women on horseback; the
+veils on their large fashionable hats fluttered in the wind, and gave
+this caravan of Amazons a singular appearance. Much fruit is grown in
+the neighbourhood, and the apples are good, but not the plums. Peaches
+thrive very well; we saw whole wagon-loads of them brought into
+Reading, around which the people crowded to buy, while the children
+stole them.
+
+[pg. 56] On the 18th of September it was with very great difficulty that
+we got places in the stage, the travellers being very numerous. After
+we had passed Kakusa Creek, we came to Womelsdorf, founded by Germans,
+fourteen miles from Reading, where we stopped to dine, and then
+proceeded over Dolpahaga Creek, to Lebanon County, which is in a
+tract diversified with eminences and wooded mountains. On this road we
+several times passed the Union Canal, which goes from Baltimore to
+Pittsburg, is very nearly completed, and is said to have cost
+18,000,000 of dollars. After we had passed the River Swatara, which
+runs into the Susquehannah, we continued our journey in a dark but
+fine evening; the crickets and grasshoppers chirped all around; but
+their note is by no means so loud as that of those in the Brazils. At
+length we perceived a number of lights before us, and came to
+Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, the end of our journey
+to-day.
+
+Harrisburg is a small town, with only 5,000 inhabitants, situated
+between the Susquehannah and the Union Canal. It has broad streets
+crossing each other at right angles; but many of the buildings are of
+wood, for which they are now, however, gradually substituting better
+ones of brick. Rows of trees are planted in front of the houses. The
+inn at which we put up was in a square, which they were just covering
+with broken stones. Here, too, is the market-hall, a long roofed
+building supported by pillars, in which the productions of the country
+are exposed for sale, as in most of the towns in the United States.
+Harrisburg, being the capital of the state, is the residence of the
+Governor. The state-house is built on a gentle eminence on the canal,
+near the town, and with its two wings is a very considerable building,
+with a colonnade and a cupola supported by pillars. Another
+interesting point of the town is the view of the Susquehannah, which
+is very broad here, and forms an island. A long bridge, covered at
+top, and enclosed at the sides, is built over each arm of the river.
+One of these bridges is about 600 paces in length. In the first there
+are twenty-three glass windows, and it has two pillars on shore, and
+five in the river. There are colossal bridges of this kind in the
+United States; and there is one further down the Susquehannah, which
+is one and a quarter mile and four rods in length, and has fifty-two
+pillars. The view from this bridge up the river is peculiarly
+beautiful. Verdant wooded islands adorn its surface, which is broad,
+but it was at this time very shallow. There are 500 negroes and people
+of colour. Germans are met with everywhere, and we were told that an
+able German physician lived here.
+
+The defective arrangements of the post-houses obliged us to stop here
+three days, and it was not till the 21st of September, in the evening,
+that we could leave the town to continue our journey during the night.
+We passed the Susquehannah, and the Juniata, which comes from the
+Alleghany Mountains, and flows into it. On the 22nd, at day-break, we
+were at the little village of Mexico.
+
+Mexico is in Mifflin County, forty miles from Harrisburg. Three miles
+further is the village of Mifflin Town, the capital of the county,
+where they were just building a new town-hall. The Union Canal, which
+connects Philadelphia and Baltimore with Pittsburg, in general follows
+the [pg. 57] same direction as the river Juniata, near which it often
+runs at a greater elevation, and sometimes is even carried over it.
+The river is here about as broad as the Lehigh, but was at this time
+very shallow. Beyond Mifflin Town it receives the Los Creek. From this
+place we observed in the valley many robinias, which grow very high
+and vigorous, as well on the mountain, which is rather dry, as by the
+water-side; vines as thick as a man's arm twine round the trunks, and
+frequently rise to the very summit. The nettle tree (_Celtis_) grew in
+great abundance, and the maples were just assuming their red tinge.
+The picturesque forest is intermingled with Canadian pines, many of
+which are quite blighted and withered. The valley now became wilder
+and more romantic; on the right hand rose a high precipice, covered
+with bolders, fragments of rock, mouldering trunks, and the finest
+trees of the country, forming a real wilderness. A very narrow part of
+the valley, where we watered our horses at an insulated house, bears
+the name of the Long Narrows; and the steep wooded mountain, on the
+south bank of the river, is called Blacklog Mountain; it is said to be
+the haunt of bears and stags. The cattle belonging to the log-houses
+were grazing among the rocks. After some time the valley grew more
+open, and at a wider spot, near the road, which descended towards the
+defile of James Creek, was a group of lofty and slender robinias, on
+which a flock of tame turkeys were sitting. These birds resemble in
+colour the wild ones which are common in this country; they often go
+into the forests, where they breed, and come home again with their
+young ones. After passing Kishikokinas Creek, we reached, at a broad
+part of the valley, the village of Louis Town, in which there are some
+considerable houses. The country people were ploughing and harrowing
+their fields; and I may here observe, that, in all Pennsylvania, they
+never employ oxen in these operations, but horses only, of which they
+have great numbers. The plough is rather different from that of
+Germany.
+
+Beyond Louis Town we saw a number of horsemen, assembled for the
+fox-chase. The fox was caught in a trap, then let loose at a certain
+spot, and hunted with many dogs, as in England. In a district
+diversified with forests and cultivated fields, we came to Waynesburg,
+a small town agreeably situated in a valley. The forests began to
+assume their autumnal tints; the maples, the dogwood (_Cornus
+Florida_), and the sumach, were partly red; the walnut trees, and the
+hickory, yellow, which gave great variety to the landscape. Near some
+habitations we observed weeping willows of extraordinary size. The
+surrounding mountains were covered with forests, into which we
+penetrated to ascend the first ridge of the Western Alleghanys. The
+road, which is, for the most part, in bad condition, rose obliquely on
+the side of a rude picturesque precipice. Except a pheasant, which
+flew past us, we saw but few living objects. Advancing into the valley
+we again came to the Juniata, over which the canal is here carried by
+an aqueduct, supported by four pillars. In this part of the river
+there are several dams, such as we had seen in the Lehigh, near
+Bethlehem, with this difference that here they are triple. For this
+purpose, rows [pg. 58] of stones, piled one upon another, are laid
+across the river, forming, in the direction of the stream, acute
+angles, where a basket is placed, in which the fish are collected.
+
+At a place where three valleys meet stands the village of
+Huntingdon,[56] ninety miles from Harrisburg, where we found a
+tolerably good inn, on an eminence above the banks of the Juniata.
+From this inn we proceeded, during the night, through high rude tracts
+and forests, past Alexandria, and at midnight reached Yellow Springs,
+and then the highest points of this ridge, called the summit, between
+2,400 and 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the vicinity of
+Blair's Gap. This wild mountain region bears hemlock spruce firs of
+colossal magnitude, mixed with other timber. The night was clear and
+cool; towards morning fogs arose from the deep valleys, which at
+daybreak covered the pine forest through which we descended. We passed
+the Conomaugh Creek, and then arrived at the little town of Ebensburg,
+on an open spot in the forest. We stopped here at a small inn to wait
+for our travelling companions.
+
+Ebensburg, the capital of Cambria County, is an inconsiderable place,
+consisting of wooden buildings, forming not much more than one broad,
+unpaved street, but has a town-house and a pretty large church. The
+inhabitants, about 300 or 400 in number, are of English, Irish, and
+some of German extraction. The surrounding country is very mountainous
+and woody, and is said to abound in all sorts of game, as indeed the
+many skins of lynxes, racoons, martens, and minks, fastened against
+the houses, prove; bears, stags, and wolves, are said not to be
+uncommon, as lofty and dark forests surround the town within a couple
+of hundred paces. Ebensburg derives some profit from the numerous
+wagons, drawn by two, four, or six strong horses, that pass through it
+on the high road to Pittsburg.
+
+Our hunting excursions in this rude country were very interesting. We
+proceeded first in a northern direction into the forest, which we
+found to be quite a primeval wilderness. The mountains rise peak above
+peak, with deep ravines, where pines, beeches, chestnuts, birches,
+maples, and walnut trees of various kinds, form a gloomy forest, and
+fallen and decayed trunks check your advance at every step; cool,
+sylvan brooks rushed foaming through all the defiles, and we had
+continually to cross them on natural bridges, formed by the fallen
+trunks of trees. Such old trunks are covered with a whole world of
+mosses, lichens, fungiwood, sorrel, ferns, &c.; nay, even young shoots
+of maple, beeches, and tulip trees, had taken root on them. We
+clambered over the trunks, went round the fallen giants of the forest,
+and found everywhere, on the ground, traces of the numerous squirrels
+(_Sciurus cinereus_), in the remains of fruit and shells, especially,
+of the chestnut.
+
+But there was also an interesting wilderness in the opposite
+direction. Here a very extensive fall of timber had been commenced--a
+gigantic labour, as in Brazil, where the wood is burnt afterwards, as
+soon as it is sufficiently dry. The sturdy woodcutters were of German
+extraction, and spoke German. From this place a dark narrow path led
+through an old pine forest, where [pg. 59] the little creeping _Michella
+repens_, here called ground berry, with its beautiful red berries,
+grew among the moss, and often covered the ground. Several small runs
+and muddy ditches crossed the forest, over which I walked or rode on
+trunks of trees that served as bridges; in doing which my clothes
+suffered not a little. Woodpeckers abounded here, especially the great
+black woodpecker (_P. pileatus_), which we had not seen before. It is
+nearly as large as a crow, and its splendid bright red tuft is
+conspicuous at a great distance. They were very shy; knocked and
+hammered on the dead pine trees, which stood like the ruins of a
+colonnade, and were pierced and bored by their strong bills. This fine
+large bird is called here, and in general, woodcock. A young man who
+lived in the forest, some miles off, told me that bears, stags, and
+other wild animals, were very numerous, particularly the pheasant, or
+cock of the wood (_Tetrao umbellus_), one of which we shot. There is a
+saw-mill here, among the lofty pines, on an arm of Conomaugh Creek, in
+a wild, lonely spot. The owner was not a little astonished at my
+double-barrelled percussion gun. After we had spent two days here in
+exploring the woods, our travelling companions, Dr. Saynisch and Mr.
+Bodmer, at length joined us, on the 26th, but as the latter still had
+need of rest, on account of his wound, we took their places, and set
+out immediately for Pittsburg.
+
+Seven miles from Ebensburg is the place which is looked upon as the
+boundary of the Alleghanys, properly so called; here begins the ridge
+called the Laurel Hills, for these mountains consist of several
+parallel chains, many of which have distinct names. The forest now
+assumes a different character. Oaks of various species succeed the
+pines and beeches; the forest is not so high, rude, and thick, and
+from an elevated spot on the road there is a fine view as you look
+back on the long wooded chain of the Alleghanys.
+
+The traveller soon sees before him a deep and wide valley in which the
+Conomaugh River flows, and beyond it a long ridge, covered with
+verdant woods, called the Chestnut Ridge, in which there is a gap,
+through which both the river and the canal pass. The eminences are
+uniformly wooded, and the chestnut and chestnut oak appear to
+predominate. We changed horses at Further Laurel Hill, and at Amagh,
+and then passed the gap. In the meadows and fields, the stumps of the
+trees that had been cut down were still standing, for the whole
+country was formerly one unbroken forest. The habitations were few in
+number, and, at the same time, small and wretched. We were told that
+this part of the country is chiefly inhabited by Irish, who are bad
+managers, and addicted to drinking. A better character is given to the
+settlers of German origin, and they are said frequently to possess
+well cultivated farms.
+
+In the woods of this district, we everywhere remarked that the tops of
+the branches, for about a foot or a foot and a half, were hanging down
+and withered, which is caused by a kind of cricket (locust, _Cicada
+septem decem_, Linn.). This insect, which, as is well known, appears
+only once in seventeen years, but then, like the cockchafer with us,
+in prodigious numbers, had abounded [pg. 60] in Pennsylvania in 1832,
+and in many places was a real scourge; it does not, however, appear
+everywhere at the same time. But a few weeks before, they were so
+numerous in these forests, that the noise they made almost overpowered
+the human voice. On examining the withered twigs, we found the bark,
+as it were, ripped open in many places, the wood quite dry, and in the
+sap, a whitish substance, which consists of the eggs of the insect.
+
+As we drove rapidly down the hills, we saw before us the extensive
+valley of the Conomaugh, for the most part covered with woods, and
+gently rising on all sides, in which, a little higher up, the small
+town of Indiana is situated. We stopped at a lonely inn by the
+road-side, watered our horses, and hastened forwards. On every side we
+saw extensive forests, and from the next eminence looked down into
+another valley, in which the Conomaugh runs by the town of
+Blairsville, a pretty little place, with many respectable houses, and
+a very good inn, in a broad main street, which runs directly across
+the valley. The country is hilly, or mountainous, well cultivated, and
+with neat farm-houses scattered around. From this place, it is ten
+miles to New Alexandria, a village with tolerably good wooden houses,
+many of which are painted. Beyond it runs the Loyalhanna, a small
+stream, which was at this time very shallow, with a covered bridge
+over it. At nightfall we reached New Salem, then Millersburg, and
+about midnight, Pittsburgh.[57]
+
+Pittsburg is an old, large, but by no means handsome town, celebrated
+for its manufactories and brisk trade, and has been described by many
+travellers. The town itself has 12,000 inhabitants; but with the
+suburbs, its population is estimated at 24,000 souls, including many
+Germans, some of whom are respectable merchants. Coal mines in the
+immediate neighbourhood (a part of which is now on fire), afford an
+ample supply of fuel for the numerous steam-engines, stoves, &c. The
+style of building in the town is everything but uniform, neat brick
+houses being mixed with small wooden ones. The streets are ill-paved,
+dirty, and badly lighted; some of them, however, are modern and
+regular; and the new edifices are handsome and elegant. There are many
+iron works, nail manufactories, glasshouses, cotton manufactories,
+&c., in many of which, steam-engines are employed, of which, as we
+were told, there are above 100 at work, which are likewise made here.
+
+This town lies on the tongue of land between the rivers Monongahela
+and Alleghany, which, by their union, form the Ohio; this river is not
+very considerable here; yet, at certain seasons, when the water is
+high, it is navigable by steam-boats, of which I counted sixteen on
+the banks of the Monongahela. Over the Alleghany there is a covered
+bridge, 500 paces in length, which has, on each side, an additional
+covered footpath; and a covered aqueduct, of the same length, is
+likewise carried across the river. A similar long and colossal bridge
+is built over the Monongahela.
+
+The situation of Pittsburg itself is not very pleasing, but there are
+interesting points in the environs. As I was furnished with very good
+letters of recommendation, several of the inhabitants of Pittsburg
+endeavoured to make my stay there agreeable. Messrs. Volz and Von
+Bonnhorst [pg. 61] (the latter of whom had been an officer in the
+Prussian army) were extremely kind to me. Mr. Lambdin, possessor of a
+museum which was yet in its infancy, likewise gave useful
+recommendations and instructions.[58] Mr. Volz had the goodness to
+accompany me to Economy, the remarkable and interesting colony of Mr.
+Rapp. For this purpose we left Pittsburg on the 29th, passed the
+great Alleghany bridge, and the suburb, and drove by the large new
+House of Correction, towards the Ohio.[59] On the eminence to the
+right of the town is the convent of Flanders nuns, who have
+established a school, in which they receive children of all religious
+denominations. We proceeded on the right bank of the Ohio, eighteen
+miles, to Economy.
+
+Economy has been described, in its leading features, by Duke Bernard
+of Saxe Weimar;[60] but it has become much more flourishing since that
+time. It is well known that old Mr. Rapp, with a company of between
+600 and 700 Swabian emigrants, came to America, and had, at that time,
+but very limited resources. He founded, with his people, successively
+three settlements; first, Old Harmony, near the Ohio; then, New
+Harmony, on the Wabash, in the State of Indiana; and then, Economy,
+near Pittsburg. This last settlement has now about 150 houses, which
+at first were slightly built of wood, but are now succeeded by better
+ones of brick; they are two stories high, and neatly painted. The
+church is spacious and plain, built of brick, with a pretty steeple,
+and a good bell.
+
+The rapidity with which these settlements sprung up, amidst thick
+forests, proves the judgment and prudence of their founder. The order
+introduced at Economy is admirable; nobody is seen in the streets
+during the day; all the inhabitants are usefully employed; young men
+and women, and also the children, are distributed among the several
+manufactories, where they work and receive no wages, but all their
+wants are amply provided for, free of cost. They are cleanly and
+neatly dressed in their Swabian costume, and nothing but German is
+spoken amongst them. The possessions and the revenues of the whole
+establishment are the joint property of the community, every
+inhabitant having placed his property in the common fund. Mr. Rapp and
+his adopted son are the directors, and the only complaint is, that no
+account is given of the management, and that the government of the
+institution is rather too dictatorial. Be this as it may, it cannot be
+denied that the arrangement and direction of this artificial society
+are admirable, and do honour to the founder. Mr. Rapp has established
+several important manufactories with steam-engines; even silks are
+manufactured from silk produced on the spot. The mulberry plantations
+and the management of the silk-worms are under the especial care of
+Mr. Rapp's grand-daughter. The manufactories alone are said now to
+yield an annual profit of 20,000 dollars. Several large buildings have
+been erected for a cotton and a woollen cloth manufactory, a mill, an
+inn, where the accommodations are very good and reasonable, &c.
+Everything they want is raised or made by themselves. They have
+extensive corn fields and vineyards, and breed great numbers of [pg. 62]
+cattle. Mr. Rapp has erected a large building, with a great saloon in
+the upper story, where the inhabitants meet on festive occasions, and
+where they have musical entertainments. In the lower story of this
+building, a cabinet of natural history has been commenced, in three
+rooms, which already contains some very interesting specimens.
+
+After we had viewed all these objects, and had been led by Mr. Rapp,
+jun., through the manufactories, we went to the dwelling-house of the
+director of the establishment, and met with a very friendly reception
+from his family, who were dressed entirely in the manner of the
+country people of W�rtemberg. They told us they would never deviate
+from their old national manners, and would always remain Germans,
+which we were very glad to hear. Soon afterwards, the founder of the
+establishment, Mr. Rapp, came in. He was a vigorous old man, of
+venerable appearance, with white hair and a long beard. We supped with
+him, drank very good wine produced here, and, in conclusion, were
+entertained by six or seven girls and a young man, who is the
+schoolmaster, and is said to be well informed, with singing and
+playing on the piano. We here became acquainted with Mr. Ehrmann of
+Mannheim, an agreeable, well-educated man, whose wife is likewise a
+very interesting person, and who was engaged in establishing a
+manufactory near Economy.
+
+On the following day we viewed the park, in which there were seventeen
+Virginian deer. Most of them had already got their winter coat; some
+were still a little red: they cast their horns in March. As it was
+Sunday, the people assembled, at nine in the morning, in the church,
+which has neither pulpit nor organ. The men sat on the right hand of
+the preacher, the women on the left; the older persons in front, the
+young people a little way back. Mr. Rapp's family had the first place.
+When the congregation were assembled, old Mr. Rapp entered with a firm
+step, seated himself at a table which was on a raised platform, and
+gave out a hymn, which was sung in rather quick time. After a prayer
+delivered standing, he preached on a text from the bible, in a bold,
+figurative style, well suited to country people, and with very
+animated gesticulation. After the sermon some verses were sung, and
+Mr. Rapp delivered a prayer, which the congregation repeated after
+him, sitting. The word Amen was always repeated by the whole
+congregation. In the afternoon we took a very cordial farewell of the
+worthy family of Mr. Rapp, and set out on our return.
+
+The country about Pittsburg has some zoological rarities, specimens of
+which my travelling companions had collected during my absence. Among
+them are, in particular, many interesting fresh water shells of the
+Ohio. Several American naturalists have written on these Bivalve
+testacea; and there is, probably, no other country so rich in
+beautiful and manifold productions of this kind. On their excursions
+in the neighbouring islands in the Ohio, they met with trees of
+colossal size, and especially a maple, that measured twenty French
+feet in circumference at the height of twelve feet from the ground,
+where it divided into four thick parallel stems, from which [pg. 63] the
+branches issued. Among the remarkable and interesting natural
+productions of these rivers, we must mention the soft shell turtles of
+the Americans (_Trionyx_, _Aspidonectes_, Wagl.), of which there are
+two or three species. They grow to a great size, and are often seen in
+the markets. Another very remarkable animal, which is very numerous
+here, is the great Alleghany salamander (_Menopoma_, Harlan), which is
+here called alligator, and of which I obtained many specimens alive,
+so that Mr. Bodmer was able to make an accurate drawing from the life.
+Then there is the _Triton lateralis_, Say., or _Menobranchus
+lateralis_, Harlan, which differs from the preceding by the tufts at
+the gills, which remain even in old age. America is well known to
+abound in these singular enigmatical animal forms, which are nearly
+akin to the European _Proteus_, or _Hypochthon_.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[55] This plant, called by the Americans the poke plant, is used, in
+many parts, as a vegetable for the table. When the plant is young, and
+not above six inches high, of a whitish, and not dark green colour,
+the leaves are tender, and very delicate. It is thought that it might
+be very advisable to cultivate it in the kitchen gardens.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[56] Huntingdon, seat of the county of the same name, was settled
+about 1760 on the site of a famous Indian council ground, and named
+for Selena, Countess of Huntingdon. It was incorporated in 1760, and
+had a population at the last federal census of 6,053.--ED.
+
+[57] New Alexandria is a small village in Westmoreland County, on
+Loyalhanna Creek, thirty-three miles east of Pittsburg.
+
+New Salem (or Salem), in the same county, twenty-five miles east of
+Pittsburg, was laid out in 1833.
+
+Many early western travellers give descriptions and historical
+accounts of Pittsburg. See particularly Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume
+iv, pp. 242-255.--ED.
+
+[58] James R. Lambdin was born in Pittsburg (1807), studied under
+Thomas Sully, of Philadelphia (1823-25), and began painting in his
+native town. Later he made professional visits to the chief towns
+between Pittsburg and Mobile, and started a museum of art and
+antiquities at Louisville, Kentucky, where he lived several years.
+From 1837 until his death in 1889 he resided principally in
+Philadelphia, but painted much at Washington, executing portraits of
+all the presidents from John Q. Adams to James A. Garfield. Lambdin
+was appointed by President Buchanan (May 15, 1859) as one of the three
+members of the Art Commission provided for by acts of Congress on June
+12, 1858, and March 3, 1859, for the purpose of a survey of the public
+buildings at Washington and submitting a report on the system of
+decorations hitherto used, and recommending plans to secure a
+harmonious effect in the future. For this report, dated February 22,
+1860, see _Executive Documents, 36 Cong., 1 sess., No. 43_.--ED.
+
+[59] See Plate 6 in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[60] Maximilian is here referring to Duke Bernard, _Travels through
+North America during the Years 1825-26_ (2 vols., Philadelphia, 1828).
+For a short statement of George Rapp and his enterprises, see Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, pp. 50 and 54, notes 22 and 25
+respectively.
+
+Economy, an Ohio River town, in Beaver County, Pennsylvania, seventeen
+miles northwest of Pittsburg, was settled by the Harmonites in 1825.
+The property of the community is now quite valuable, but in 1902 the
+membership was only eight. Celibacy has been encouraged and new
+members have not been solicited, and the property is now in the hands
+of a single trustee.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+JOURNEY FROM PITTSBURG TO NEW HARMONY, ON THE WABASH, FROM 8TH TO 19TH
+OCTOBER, 1832
+
+   Cannonsburg--Wheeling--Embarkation in the Nile
+   Steam-boat--Marietta, on the Muskingum River--Indian
+   Antiquities--Flat-boats--Gallipolis--Portsmouth, at the mouth of
+   the Scioto River--Cincinnati--Big Miami River, which forms the
+   boundary between Ohio and Indiana--Louisville, on the Falls of
+   the Ohio--Horse-races--Embarkation in the Waterwitch
+   Steam-boat--The Cholera on Board--Mount Vernon--Landing--Journey
+   by Land to New Harmony.
+
+
+The Ohio, called by the French _La Belle Rivi�re_, was at this time
+too shallow at Pittsburg to be navigated by steamboats, and we were
+therefore obliged to go by land to Wheeling,[61] a distance of
+fifty-seven miles; by the river, it is ninety-five miles. After taking
+leave of Dr. Saynisch, who returned to Bethlehem, we crossed the Ohio,
+near the town, in a well contrived ferry, the wheels of which were
+moved by four horses. Our stage was drawn rapidly, by four good
+horses, along the path of the mountains, where the road passed through
+lofty forests, great part of which was, however, ruined and cleared.
+The foliage was adorned with the most beautiful varied tints of
+autumn, a circumstance which distinguishes North America, at this
+season, from all other countries. In the Brazils, it is the spring, or
+the transition from the rainy to the dry season, that adorns the
+forest with the most beautiful diversity of tints, which, however, are
+chiefly produced by the flowers, which frequently appear before the
+leaves. North America, on the other hand, has but few such flowering
+trees; most of them have catkins (_amenta_), and it is the foliage,
+which assumes in the autumn so great a variety of colours.
+
+On the next eminence, the road leaves the river, and turns to the
+south-west. Strata of coal appear in some places, and workmen were
+busy in removing the earth above them. We frequently met with European
+emigrants, most of them in their peasant's dress, with faces burnt by
+the sun, and carrying their children. The country consists of high
+hills and forests, and we frequently saw the robinia, pseud-acacia,
+which is partly planted for the sake of its timber, potatoes, [pg. 65]
+clover, and corn, which was now in the ear. A great deal of fruit is
+cultivated here, and the farmers were just reaping the maize. The
+farm-houses are all slightly built of wood, with the chimney on the
+outside, to avoid the danger of fire. As the sun shone with intense
+heat, the birds were all life, twittering on the high trees, where the
+loquacious blackbirds flew about in companies. The woods, presenting a
+beautiful mixture of yellow, vermilion, purple and green, gave us much
+pleasure, and we reached Chattier or Shirtee Creek, which, after
+numerous windings, falls into the Ohio, near Wheeling. We proceeded
+along its valley, where colossal planes and elms, as well as robinia
+and willows, afforded a welcome shade. We had passed several covered
+bridges before we reached Cannonsburg, eighteen miles from Pittsburg,
+where we changed horses, and, as usual in all such places in the
+United States, were gazed at by the curious and the idle. There is a
+college here for young divinity students. We now traversed the valley
+of the Chattier Creek, where the plane trees were very lofty and
+spreading. They were covered with their round fruit, from which the
+Americans have given the tree the name of button-wood.
+
+At noon we reached Washington,[62] a village, beyond which the
+country presented an alternation of forests and fields, where stumps
+of trees showed that the whole country east of the Mississippi was a
+primeval forest. We found an ample variety in the splendid woods,
+where the lime (_Tilia grandifolia_), with its colossal leaves, was
+not uncommon, and the willow-leaved oak (_Quercus phellos_), was
+likewise in great abundance, the foliage of which resembles our white
+willow, but the bark and fruit are exactly like those of the oak.
+After passing a village called Alexandria, or more properly Alexander
+we reached the boundary of the state of Pennsylvania, and entered
+Virginia, which last state has a narrow strip of land on the eastern
+bank of the Ohio. The land here is said to be fruitful, and very well
+cultivated, though we did not immediately perceive this in the narrow
+valley of the Wheeling Creek, through which we drove. We saw numbers
+of young oxen, all brought for sale from the state of Ohio, where the
+breeding of cattle is very extensive. Many of these oxen had
+uncommonly large horns, others none at all. It was a beautiful
+moonlight evening when we passed the Mean Creek, which joins that
+above-mentioned, and both together forming Wheeling Creek. At this
+place, not far from the road-side, there is a pillar erected in honour
+of Mr. Henry Clay, who had been very instrumental in the opening of
+this road. The night prevented our taking a view of it. From an
+eminence we saw before us numerous lamps in Wheeling, and the Ohio
+sparkling in the light of the moon, and then took up our quarters at
+an inn at that place. Wheeling is a rapidly improving town, containing
+5,200 inhabitants, where at this time they were building whole
+streets, and is situated on a ledge of the mountain, on the bank of
+the Ohio. On the summit there is not much more than one broad,
+unpaved street, with footpaths of bricks: shops of all kinds were
+already opened. The Ohio at this place is about as broad as the
+Moselle near its mouth. The banks are moderately high wooded
+mountains, the uncultivated places in which are often overgrown with
+_Datura_. Two [pg. 66] steam-boats were expected on the 9th of October,
+and at noon we embarked on board the Nile, a small vessel, because
+steamers of a large size cannot come so high up the river. Our large
+or lower cabin had sixteen beds, the upper cabin being appropriated to
+the women. The river was, at this time, very low, and its banks, from
+forty to fifty feet high, consisted of yellowish red clay and strata
+of sand.
+
+The traces of the great inundation of the preceding spring were
+everywhere visible in uprooted trees, thrown one over the other. The
+water at that time overflowed the lower stories of the houses of
+Wheeling; whereas it was now so low, that our boat was obliged to stop
+for the night. Early on the following morning, however, the 10th of
+October, we passed Elizabeth Town. On the banks of the river lay
+pirogues, composed of the trunk of a tree hollowed out, like those in
+Brazil, and small habitations were scattered in the lofty and
+picturesque forests. A little field of maize generally surrounded
+these dwellings, and the recently felled trees indicated that it was a
+new settlement. The eminences on the banks of the Ohio are, in
+general, rounded, steep, wooded hills, separated by valleys or
+ravines. In many places stacks of wood were piled up for the
+steam-boats, and some was already in boats. We arrived at New Town, on
+the right bank, at the mouth of the Sunfish Creek, a village with only
+eight houses, which was not yet marked on Tanner's map.[63] Near
+Fishing Creek, which falls into the Ohio, we saw the white-headed
+eagle soaring in the air, while the kingfishers flew about the banks,
+and the note of the black crow sounded in the tall forests. Near the
+village of Sistersville, on the right bank, in the state of Ohio, the
+sand-banks in the river were covered with the yellow blossoms of some
+plant, which, however, I was not able clearly to distinguish; but it
+was an autumnal flower, and the wind reminded us of the approach of
+the cold season, blowing quantities of leaves from the forest, in some
+places entirely covering the surface of the water with them. Towards
+noon, the sun shone bright, and the gay tints of the forest appeared
+more lovely than ever; colossal planes, maples, tulip trees, beeches,
+elms, ashes, limes, walnuts, and other trees, grow to a great height,
+and beneath their shade we saw many rustic bridges, or planks, thrown
+picturesquely across the little brooks. The trunks of the trees,
+covered with the _Hedera quinquefolia_, which made them look like
+scarlet columns, and the varied tints of the foliage, charm the
+beholder. All along the Ohio, Mississippi, and Lower Missouri, the
+papaw tree (_Asimina triloba Dunal_) grows as underwood. Its fruit,
+resembling a small cucumber, was now ripe, and great quantities were
+brought on board our steamer. This tree has a beautiful light green,
+large, smooth leaf, and violet brown flower, which grows isolated, but
+it does not attain a greater height than between twenty and thirty
+feet. The fruit has a pleasant taste, but the smell is disagreeable.
+It contains a whitish, juicy pulp, and twelve thick black kernels.
+
+A heavy fall of rain was very welcome to us, the water in the river
+being so low that our boat frequently grounded. At a narrow part of
+the river we came to the village of Newark, and then to the mouth of
+the Muskingum River, at the town of Marietta, which was founded in
+1788.[64] This [pg. 67] place is small, but it has neat brick buildings,
+some of which looked like churches. We have read much about the
+ancient Indian remains and ramparts, between the Ohio and the
+Muskingum. Smith Barton, Attwater, Schultz, and especially Warden,[65]
+have written on this highly interesting subject, and given ground
+plans of the Indian ramparts, which are met with at many places in the
+state of Ohio, at Cincinnati, Wheeling, Chillicothe, as well as in all
+the States west of the Alleghanys, and respecting which Warden has
+collected everything that is known; but most of these interesting
+remains have been entirely annihilated by the love of devastation, or
+the negligence of the new settlers. Thus Marietta is built just on
+the fore part of the Indian works, and many of them are no longer to
+be seen. It is much to be lamented that the government of the United
+States suffers all this to be done without any attempt to prevent it.
+It looks on unmoved, while the plough continues from year to year the
+destruction of these remains of ages long since past, the only
+historical monuments of this country. Schultz gave, in 1820, a ground
+plan of the ramparts near Marietta, as Smith Barton and Warden did
+more recently; and Mr. Thomas Say made a sketch of them in 1815, which
+he communicated to me. A great part of them has been since ploughed
+over.
+
+From Marietta we came to the Island of Muskingum, and then to Vienna
+Island; opposite to which, on the left bank, lies the village of
+Vienna. Swallows, which had long since left Pennsylvania, were still
+flying about here. We everywhere heard accounts of the great flood in
+the Ohio, when the steam-boats were on a level with the second story
+of the houses in Marietta.
+
+We saw tall forest trees, among the thick branches of which the river
+had deposited beams and other pieces of wood.[66] Below Parkersburg, a
+village on the southern side, the little Kenhava River issues from the
+high bank opposite Belpie, a settlement of a few houses.[67] A
+steam-boat, which had been entirely crushed by the ice, proved how
+violent the effects of the breaking up of the ice in the Ohio
+sometimes are. Our captain lay to for the night, on the right bank,
+which was necessary, on account of the unfavourable weather; the rain
+being so heavy, that it drenched the upper row of beds in the large
+cabin.
+
+On the 11th October the weather was fairer, but very cool. The
+appearance of the bank was the same as before--an unbroken, thick
+forest, with here and there some little settlements. We reached, at an
+early hour, the Little Hocking River, which comes from the state of
+Ohio. Ducks, particularly teal, flew past us, and we observed, also,
+many other birds of passage on their flight. Near Shade Creek, the
+banks of the river consisted of stratified, rocky walls, which
+appeared to be Grauwacke slate;[68] we observed, in the forest, trees
+of remarkable forms and colours; the trunks, covered with the scarlet
+foliage of the five-leaved ivy, were particularly beautiful. We
+frequently met, in the river, with flat boats, which are built all
+along the banks [pg. 68] of the Ohio, from Pittsburg, and are sent with
+the produce of the country to New Orleans. These boats are large
+four-cornered chests, composed of beams and planks, are often heavily
+laden, draw much water, and, having neither masts nor sails, proceed
+very slowly. They are propelled with large oars, and can only go down
+the river; they are many months on the voyage to New Orleans, and the
+rowers are commonly new European emigrants, hired for low wages, and
+often merely for a free passage. Many of these boats are wrecked, and
+they are, therefore, frequently insured; at New Orleans they are sold
+for lumber.
+
+The woods in the valley of the Ohio are more lofty and luxuriant than
+on the other side of the Alleghany Mountains; vines twine round the
+trees, and present a faint image of the woods of warmer countries. The
+kingfisher was common; the swallows had not yet taken their flight,
+and in some places the sandpiper was seen upon the bank. In the
+vicinity of the houses were cattle, horses, swine, large sheep, and
+numerous flocks of European geese and ducks; here, too, the papaw tree
+was sometimes planted in rows. The river increased in breadth, but not
+in depth, of which we had the proof before us, for a flat boat had run
+aground, and the people stood in the water, trying to get it afloat.
+In this part of the country there are, in the state of Ohio, many
+Swiss colonists, who are much commended for their industry. The soil
+is extremely fruitful, and needs no manure. The dwellings of these
+people are small log-houses, exactly like the huts in Switzerland.
+Towards noon, before we reached Point Pleasant, we saw, in many places
+on the Ohio, considerable coal-pits, the sulphureous smell of which
+was perceptible in the steamer; many boats lay ready to take in
+cargoes; negro children were sitting in groups on the bank, near their
+extensive plantations of maize. These people are free in the state of
+Ohio. After we had passed Point Pleasant, a village on the left bank,
+where fine forests cover the low bank of the great Kenhava River,
+which here falls into the Ohio, we reached, in about twenty minutes,
+Gallipolis, on the right bank, an old French colony, the inhabitants
+of which still speak the French language.[69] Immediately below that
+town, there is a fine forest of beech trees; on the water-side,
+thickets of plane, and between them the papaw tree took the place
+which, in Pennsylvania, is occupied by the _Rhododendron maximum_;
+willows grew in front of the planes.
+
+The sun disappeared behind the hills on the bank; the evening sky was
+clear and serene, and the bright mirror of the Ohio extended unruffled
+near Racoon Creek, where we saw large flocks of ducks. We intended to
+continue our voyage during the night; but, about nine o'clock, we
+struck violently on a sand-bank, near the Indian Guyandot River, where
+there is a small village of the same name, and, as a thick fog arose,
+we lay to, six miles below Guyandot.[70]
+
+On the 12th of October, in the morning, a dense fog covered the river,
+and the thermometer was, at half-past six o'clock, at 10� Reaumur,
+above zero. We passed the mouth of Symes Creek, and then Burlington, a
+small scattered village in Lawrence County, where our boat struck upon
+some stones, and was thrown a little on one side. On the left bank was
+Cadetsburg, [pg. 69] with Big Sandy Creek, then Hanging Rock, a small
+village, where most of the iron utensils for the whole of Ohio are
+shipped. The situation of the place is picturesque, surrounded with
+forests and rocks. On the left, or Kentucky bank, we passed
+Greenupsburg, a row of seventeen or eighteen small houses, on the high
+bank. The inhabitants, in order to attract the notice of the vessels
+that pass by to their public-houses, stores, or shops, have set up
+posts, with boards painted white, on which their trade, &c., is
+described in very large letters. The beech woods on this part of the
+river were remarkably fine, their foliage green and yellow. On our
+right hand was the little Scioto River; we then came to the village of
+Portsmouth, at the mouth of the Scioto River, on the Ohio bank, where
+the celebrated Ohio Canal begins, which connects that river with lake
+Erie. At this place we took on board a number of European emigrants,
+among whom were many Germans, with their baggage, beds, and other
+effects, and many children. The negroes brought provisions for sale;
+one of them had a number of fowls, all of which escaped, and caused no
+little amusement. From this place, fine forests covered the bank, in
+which were tall poplars (_Populus Angulata_, or _Canadensis_), which
+I had not before observed. Here, too, I noticed some interesting forms
+of mountains, which in general are very rare in this country. Most of
+the summits are round, some broad, but very few pointed. Towards
+evening we came to the village of Rockville,[71] on the right bank,
+which was not marked on our map, and lay to, at nightfall, when we
+learned that our vessel had caught fire, but happily it was already
+extinguished. On the bank near the steam-boat, a large fire was
+burning, the reflection of which, on the dark forest, had a fine
+effect, and so had the steamers that hastened past us, which were
+brightly lighted up inside, and emitted sparks of fire as they rushed
+along in the dark night.
+
+On the 13th, at daybreak, the landscape was obscured by rain. We had
+passed, during the night, Adamsville, Manchester, Aberdeen, Ripley,
+Vanceburg, Maysville, and Augusta, and were now off the village of
+Neville, where the Helen Mar steam-boat lay near us, to take in wood.
+We then came to Moscow, then to Point Pleasant, and on the right bank
+to New Richmond.[72] Near the little Miami River, six miles from
+Cincinnati, the Ohio was so shallow, that we saw the shells at the
+bottom, and our boat struck several times. The Miami River was nearly
+dry. At Columbia, in the state of Ohio, the valley becomes rather
+wider, but the hills soon close in again upon the river, and we come
+to the beginning of the great town of Cincinnati.
+
+Cincinnati, the most important and flourishing town of the West, with
+more than 36,000 inhabitants, was at this time visited by the cholera,
+which, as we were assured by a physician who came to our vessel,
+carried off, on an average, forty persons daily. I therefore resolved
+not to stop now, but to visit this town on my return; our baggage was
+transferred to the Portsmouth steamer, which was just about to depart;
+and at noon we reached the mouth of Big Miami River.[73]
+
+On the 14th of October, we had pleasant sunshiny weather. The river
+had become considerably broader, when we came to Six-miles Island, a
+beautiful island six miles from Louisville. [pg. 70] We had passed
+several places during the night, and likewise the celebrated Big-bone
+Lick,[74] where colossal bones of the mammoth have been dug up at the
+foot of a hill of black earth. I would gladly have stopped at this
+spot, but some of our passengers, who were well acquainted with the
+country, assured me that there was now nothing to be seen there, nor
+was anything more found. All that had been obtained had been sold to
+England and the American museums.
+
+Fossil bones[75] of animals are still found in the United States, but
+the possessors having learnt the value of such things, ask so high a
+price for them that it is difficult to obtain them; they are, besides,
+frequently presented, out of patriotism, to the American museums.
+
+We soon reached Louisville, a considerable town, with 12,000
+inhabitants, which in 1800 had only 600.[76] It is in the state of
+Kentucky, and, when seen from the river, does not make nearly so good
+an appearance as Cincinnati. Negroes conveyed our baggage to the inn,
+where we found, as usual, a great number of gentlemen, for the most
+part travelling merchants. The merchants are, in America, the class of
+people among whom the most idleness is found, and they are extremely
+numerous. The least numerous classes are the men of learning, and the
+military; the latter, in particular, so very few, that they are not at
+all remarked. The young men who, in North America, besiege the doors
+of the inns, are, doubtless, most of them, traders. Foreigners are
+often treated with contempt by these persons, who are usually equally
+conceited and unpolished, and make observations, as soon as they
+discover a foreigner, either by his incorrect pronunciation of
+English, or by his dress. This American conceit is to be attributed
+partly to their excessive patriotism, and partly to their ignorance,
+and want of acquaintance with other countries.
+
+When the dinner-hour was come, such a crowd of gentlemen had assembled
+before the house, that, at the ringing of the second (dinner) bell,
+the dining-room was in a manner carried by storm. All rushed
+impetuously into the room, every one making good use of his elbows,
+and in ten minutes all these people had dined and hastened out again.
+Mr. Wenzel, a German merchant, to whom I had letters, had the kindness
+to show me the town and neighbourhood. Louisville has the appearance
+of being likely soon to become an important town, and many new houses
+were, in fact, building. The streets are long, broad, and straight,
+crossing each other at right angles, and the situation on the Ohio is
+very favourable for trade. Handsome, showy shops are common here, as
+in all the towns of the United States, and elegance of dress
+characterizes everywhere, even in the smallest places, the inhabitants
+of this country, the great object of whose efforts is the acquisition
+of wealth. As it was Sunday, the various sects of the population were
+flocking to their respective places of worship; afterwards, many of
+them were driving out in their gigs. There were already above thirty
+hackney carriages, partly belonging to negroes, of whom only the far
+[pg. 71] smaller portion are free in the state of Kentucky. The state of
+oppression in which the negro slaves live in North America, makes them
+corrupt and knavish, which travellers often have occasion to learn by
+their own experience. At Louisville, the cholera had already appeared.
+Five persons, most of them negroes, were carried off the day before
+our arrival, and a general panic had seized the inhabitants.
+
+Mr. Wenzel took us to a spot which was intended for horse-races, an
+institution quite new in the Western States. A society had purchased a
+beautiful level spot of ground, surrounded with woods, and about four
+miles in circumference. This place was surrounded with palisades, with
+several stands in the centre, and stables in the neighbourhood for the
+horses. The horses of Kentucky are considered to be the best in the
+country; the stallions which were to run, and some of which had come
+from a distance, seemed to be mostly of a very good breed, not large,
+but well built. The first races were to continue the whole of the next
+week. This institution will, doubtless, have a good effect in
+improving the breed of horses, and afford the inhabitants of the town
+and neighbourhood both advantage and amusement.
+
+In the afternoon we left Louisville to embark at Portland, below the
+town, on account of the Falls of the Ohio, that now cannot be
+navigated past the town, and therefore a canal has been made, where,
+by the aid of five sluices, the boats are raised twenty-two feet.
+Those who land at Louisville embark again at Portland, where there is
+generally a great number of steam-boats, among which we chose the
+Water-witch, bound to New Orleans.[77] There were a great many
+passengers eager to embark, who drove in carriages into the river to
+reach the steam-boat, to which the baggage was conveyed in the same
+manner. The loading of the vessel not being completed, we did not set
+out till the 16th of October. At seven o'clock in the morning of that
+day, Reaumur's thermometer was at 5� above zero, while a thick fog
+covered the river. We put off at half-past ten, and had a fine view of
+the magnificent Ohio, with the large town of Louisville in Kentucky,
+and New Albany in Indiana,[78] opposite, with numerous steam-boats on
+both banks. It was soon discovered that our engine was out of order,
+and we were forced to lie to, on the Indiana side, to repair it. As
+this required much time, we took the opportunity of exploring the
+first forest in this State. The bank was fifty feet high, and steep;
+the upper part of the declivity was covered with _Datura_, the seeds
+of which were now ripe, but very few of the light purple flowers were
+to be seen. The beautiful blue flowering _Eupatorium coelestinum_
+and the _Lobelia syphilitica_ bore their flowers amongst the
+thorn-apples. On the summit of the bank there was a noble forest of
+tall, thick beech, maple, oak, walnut trees, &c., in which there were
+some plantations of maize, with their block-houses. The underwood was
+everywhere the papaw tree, and on the skirts of the forest the yellow
+flowering _Cassia Marylandica_, with ripe seed. Old trunks lay rotting
+on the ground, which was partly covered with the falling leaves.
+
+At nightfall our engine was repaired, and we proceeded on our voyage,
+and on the morning [pg. 72] of the 17th reached the village of
+Brandenburg, on the Kentucky bank, which is here rocky, and marked
+with horizontal white stripes, or strata. The mountains were rounded
+and covered with wood. In Indiana the forest was cleared in some
+places for plantations, which afforded a view into the picturesque
+interior; for on these cleared spots the tall forest trees stood, as
+in the primeval forests in Brazil, like columns crowded together. This
+dense forest was interrupted for a short space by the towns of
+Leavenworth and Rome, in Indiana, and Stevensport in Kentucky; the two
+last with some indifferent buildings. From this part the country had
+no great variety, the forests being seldom interrupted. The islands
+were bordered with willow bushes, with tall trees in the middle. On
+the bank where the rock was exposed, on account of the low water in
+the river, we observed singular forms produced by the action of the
+stream. They consisted of round or elliptical stratified masses, which
+gradually decreased in breadth, so that the whole looked like a
+truncated pyramid rising in terraces. Before night we reached
+Cloverburg, in Kentucky, and lay to till the stars or the moon should
+appear.[79] Numerous card parties sat down in the great cabin, where
+the heat was intolerable. Our beds swarmed with cockroaches, which ran
+over our faces and hands, or fell from the ceiling. These disagreeable
+animals are as common here as in Brazil; they gnaw everything, and,
+being quite soft, are crushed by the slightest motion.
+
+On the 18th, at half-past six o'clock in the morning, the thermometer
+was +16� Reaumur, with rain, and wind, and a clouded sky. We reached
+at an early hour the little place of Rockport,[80] in Indiana, and at
+half-past eight, Owenburg, or Yellow Banks, in Kentucky, where we
+landed many passengers. We saw the Turkey buzzard hovering over the
+woods--a bird which we had not observed since we left Cincinnati, and
+which is not found to the west of the Alleghanys. The Ohio, though the
+water was extremely low, was still very broad and beautiful, its
+wooded banks rather low. French Island, and some others, covered with
+bushes and lime trees, lay quite dry, surrounded with a large
+sand-bank. It was discovered that we had the cholera on board. A man
+from Kentucky had declared himself ill early in the morning, and was
+dead before eleven o'clock, though the Captain employed all the
+remedies in his power. He was quite well in the evening, had played at
+cards all night, and did not complain till towards morning. A coffin
+was made of some planks; the vessel lay to on the bank, which was
+steep, and the bell was rung while the body was conveyed on shore and
+buried. Many of our passengers landed to see the funeral; others were
+extremely alarmed, and, meantime, took a walk.
+
+After the funeral was over, and a white board, with the name of the
+deceased, had been set up on the grave, the bell called the passengers
+on board; in half an hour we reached Evansville on the Indiana bank;
+soon afterwards Pigeon Creek; above this, on the other bank, the Green
+River, and subsequently the village of Henderson.[81] Here we took in
+fresh provisions, and, among the rest, 1000 fowls were offered for
+sale, of which we took a good supply at a dollar per dozen. [pg. 73] The
+sun was setting with great splendour as we left this place; the broad,
+unruffled bosom of the Ohio shone like a silver mirror, in which the
+beautiful wooded banks were reflected, and the magnificent purple and
+orange hues of the sky tinged the river with their glow.
+
+Towards midnight we reached Mount Vernon,[82] where we landed,
+intending to proceed, the next morning, to New Harmony, to visit the
+naturalists at that place. After passing the night at an indifferent
+inn, I set out for New Harmony, on the 19th of October, in the
+morning. I had been indisposed, as well as my huntsman, since I left
+Louisville, and was not in a mood properly to appreciate the fine,
+lofty forests of Indiana, the road through which was very bad and
+rough; the last part of the forest was remarkably grand and wild:
+vines and other climbing plants hung down from the old trees. The
+_Amorpha fruticosa_ frequently formed the underwood. At some of the
+isolated dwellings of the farmers, racoon skins were hung up to dry,
+and the beautiful large feathers of the wild turkey were scattered on
+the ground. After having passed, in the most oppressive heat, the Big
+Creek, which flows between the wooded hills, we soon reached the
+fertile valley of the Wabash, near to which New Harmony is built.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[61] For the early history of Wheeling, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in
+our volume iii, p. 33, note 15.--ED.
+
+[62] For notes on Canonsburg, Washington, and Alexandria, see Harris's
+_Journal_, in our volume iii, pp. 347, 348, notes 31, 32, 33
+respectively. The Associate Presbyterian Theological Seminary was
+organized at Canonsburg in 1794, with Rev. John Anderson as the first
+instructor.--ED.
+
+[63] For Elizabeth Town, New Town, and Sistersville, see,
+respectively, Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 34, note 7; A.
+Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 49, note 66; and Woods's
+_English Prairie_, in our volume x, p. 223, note 25.
+
+Henry S. Tanner (1786-1858), a resident of Philadelphia, engraved and
+published atlases and separate maps. Worthy of mention are the _New
+American Atlas_ (Philadelphia, 1817-23), _The World_ (1825), _Map of
+the United States of Mexico_ (1825), _Map of the United States of
+America_ (1829). Tanner was a member of the geographical societies of
+London and Paris, made numerous contributions to periodicals, and
+published the _American Traveller_ (Philadelphia, 1836), _Central
+Traveller_ (New York, 1840), _New Picture of Philadelphia_
+(Philadelphia, 1840), _Description of the Canals and Railroads of the
+United States_ (New York, 1840), and _View of the Valley of the
+Mississippi_ (Philadelphia, 1832).--ED.
+
+[64] Maximilian is probably here referring to the hamlet Newport, in
+Washington County, instead of to Newark. Newport was not laid out as a
+village until 1839. For an account of Marietta see A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 34, note 16.--ED.
+
+[65] Benjamin Smith Barton (1766-1815) studied in Philadelphia,
+Edinburgh, London, and G�ttingen, practiced medicine in Philadelphia,
+and for a number of years taught in the college of that city and its
+successor, the University of Pennsylvania. He made numerous
+contributions to scientific journals, and published _Observations on
+Some Parts of Natural History_ (London, 1787), _New Views on the
+Origin of the Tribes of America_ (1797), etc.
+
+Caleb Atwater (1778-1867) went to Ohio in 1811, served several years
+in the legislature of that state, and was appointed Indian
+commissioner under Jackson. He published _A Tour to Prairie du Chien_
+(1831), _Western Antiquities_ (1833), _Writings of Caleb Atwater_
+(1833), and _History of Ohio_ (1838).
+
+Christian Schultz, _Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of
+New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee and
+through the territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New
+Orleans: performed in the years 1807-1808_ (New York, 1810).
+
+David Baillie Warden (1778-1845) was for many years United States
+consul at Paris. He was much interested in antiquities and published
+_Recherches sur les Antiquit�s de l'Am�rique Septentrionale_ (Paris,
+1827); also earlier _A Statistical, Political, and Historical Account
+of the United States of North America_ (Edinburgh, 1819).--ED.
+
+[66] Audubon (see "Ornithological Biography," vol. i. p. 156) mentions an
+instance of a cow that swam in to the window of a house which was seven
+feet above the ground, and sixty feet above low-watermark.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[67] For Parkersburg, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 224, note 27. The other settlement should be Belpr�, for which see
+our volume iv, p. 127, note 87.--ED.
+
+[68] For points of historic interest connected with the Little
+Hockhocking (Hocking) River, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume
+i, p. 131, note 99.
+
+Shade Creek rises in Atkins County, flows southeast through Meigs
+County, and enters the Ohio about twenty-one miles below
+Blennerhassett's Island.--ED.
+
+[69] For Point Pleasant and Gallipolis, see respectively Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 132, note 101, and F. A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, volume iii, p. 185, note 34.--ED.
+
+[70] Racoon Creek, ninety miles in length, drains Vinton County, Ohio,
+flows through Gallia County, and joins the Ohio River seven miles
+below Gallipolis.
+
+For Guyandotte River, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 229, note 33.--ED.
+
+[71] Symmes Creek, which enters the Ohio five miles above Burlington,
+probably derived its name, like the village Symmes, from John Cleves
+Symmes, appointed judge in the Northwest Territory in 1787. In 1788
+Judge Symmes received a federal grant of a million acres of public
+land, upon which was founded Cincinnati and North Bend.
+
+Burlington, in the southwestern extremity of Ohio, was once the seat
+of Lawrence County.
+
+Catlettsburg, here incorrectly written Cadetsburg, is the seat of Boyd
+County, Kentucky. See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 155, note
+103.
+
+The Sandy, or the Big Sandy, River (not creek), formed by the junction
+of Tug and Levisa forks, flows north to the Ohio River, separating the
+states of Kentucky and West Virginia. It drains an area of four
+thousand square miles, and is navigable for small steamboats to a
+distance of a hundred miles.
+
+Hanging Rock, named for a high sandstone escarpment, is on the right
+bank of the river, three miles below Ironton.
+
+For Greenupsburg and Governor Greenup, see Woods's _English Prairie_,
+in our volume x, p. 229, note 34.
+
+Concerning the historic importance of the Scioto River, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 134, note 102; and for the Ohio Canal,
+see Flint's _Letters_ in our volume ix, p. 96, note 44.
+
+Rockville, Adams County, Ohio, was laid out in 1830.--ED.
+
+[72] Adamsville, Muskingum County, Ohio, was laid out in 1832 by M.
+Adams.
+
+For the early history of Manchester, Ohio, and its founder, General
+Nathaniel Massie, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 160, note
+107.
+
+Aberdeen, Brown County, Ohio, was laid out by Nathan Ellis in 1816.
+
+For Ripley, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x, p. 233,
+note 41; for Vanceburg, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 165,
+note 111; for Maysville, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume
+iii, p. 35, note 23; and for Augusta, see Flint's _Letters_, in our
+volume ix, p. 148, note 69.
+
+Neville, in Clermont County, Ohio, was settled by John Gregg in 1795.
+
+The "Helen Mar" steamboat (88 tons) was built at Cincinnati in 1832;
+it was reported as being out of commission in 1837.
+
+Moscow, Clermont County, Ohio, was laid out by Owen Davis (1816); and
+Point Pleasant, five miles farther down the river, in the same county,
+was platted in the same year by Joseph Jackson for its proprietor,
+Henry Ludlow.
+
+For New Richmond, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p. 148,
+note 70.--ED.
+
+[73] For the founding of Cincinnati, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our
+volume iv, p. 256, note 166.--ED.
+
+[74] For Big Bone Lick and the remains of the mammoth found there, see
+Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, p. 135, note 104.--ED.
+
+[75] In Ferussac's "Bulletin des Sciences," 1831, there is a notice of
+a colossal animal, sixty feet long, lately discovered there, and the
+whole story was invented, merely to attract visitors. In Silliman's
+American Journal (Vol. xx. No. 2, July, 1831, page 370), there is a
+correct description of these bones, in refutation of the preceding
+statement.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[76] On the early history of Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see
+Croghan's _Journals_ in our volume i, p. 136, note 106.--ED.
+
+[77] Portland was laid out in 1814 for the proprietor, William Lytle;
+it was incorporated in 1834, and annexed to Louisville in 1837.
+
+The "Water Witch" (120 tons) was built at Nashville in 1831, being
+sunk near Plaquemine, Louisiana, two years later.--ED.
+
+[78] For New Albany, see Hulme's _Journal_, in our volume x, p. 44,
+note 15.--ED.
+
+[79] Brandenburg is the seat of Meade County, Kentucky, forty miles
+below Louisville. It was incorporated in 1825, and named after Colonel
+Solomon Brandenburg, the proprietor.
+
+Leavenworth, named for Messrs. S. M. and J. Leavenworth, is the seat
+of justice in Crawford County, Indiana. It was located in 1818.
+
+Rome, Perry County, Indiana, was laid out (May, 1818) by one Cummings,
+and named Washington; in the fall of the same year the name was
+changed to Franklin; when it was made the county seat in 1819, it was
+given its present name. See _History of Warrick, Spencer, and Perry
+Counties, Indiana_ (Chicago, 1885).
+
+Stevensport was incorporated in 1825. Cloverport, originally
+Jossville, was established in 1828.--ED.
+
+[80] For Rockport, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x, p.
+251, note 58.
+
+Owensboro (incorrectly written Owenburg) is the seat of justice for
+Daviess County, Kentucky. Originally called Rossborough, the name was
+later changed to that now used, being given in honor of Colonel
+Abraham Owen, killed in the battle of Tippecanoe. The town was
+incorporated February 3, 1817.--ED.
+
+[81] An account of the founding of Evansville is given in Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, p. 45, note 16.
+
+For Henderson, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 267, note
+175.--ED.
+
+[82] For Mount Vernon, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p.
+306, note 154. A short account of New Harmony is given in Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, p. 50, note 22.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY ABOUT NEW HARMONY IN INDIANA, AND WINTER
+RESIDENCE THERE FROM OCTOBER 19TH, 1832, TO MARCH 16TH, 1833
+
+   New Harmony on the Wabash--The
+   Environs--Forests--Animals--Geological
+   Formation--Climate--Aborigines--Remains of the former
+   Population--The present Indians--The White Usurpers--Cultivation
+   of the Country--Productions--Breed of Cattle--Buffaloes--The
+   Naturalists at Harmony--Excursions--Fox River--Black River--Long
+   Pond--The present sanitary State of the Country.
+
+
+New Harmony was founded by Mr. Rapp, and his Swabian followers, in a
+wooded plain on the left or east bank of the Wabash, about fifteen or
+twenty miles distant from any other place. As Duke Bernhard of Saxe
+Weimar has already spoken on this subject, I need not give any further
+account of the history of this settlement; I will only add that Mr.
+Owen, a Scotchman, bought the whole of Mr. Rapp, but afterwards
+disposed of it to Mr. William Maclure, President of the Academy of
+Natural Sciences of Philadelphia.[83] At the time of our visit,
+Harmony had fallen into decay, and the people whom Mr. Maclure had
+settled there, were in part dispersed. Two sons of Mr. Owen were,
+however, still here, and also Mr. Thomas Say, and Mr. Lesueur; the
+first, well known as having accompanied Major Long in his two journeys
+into the interior, and the second, by his voyage round the world with
+Captain Baudin, and the celebrated Piron. Though Mr. Maclure did not
+appear to take any active part in the management of Harmony, because
+the climate did not agree with him, and he therefore resided in
+Mexico, he took care to furnish Mr. Say with a fine library of books
+on Natural History, which was constantly enriched with the most
+valuable new works published in Europe. He likewise had here a
+printing press, a copper-plate press, and an engraver. Mr. Maclure had
+purchased in France all the plates of Audebert and Vieillot's splendid
+ornithological works, which are preserved in the library.[84] Mr. Say
+has undertaken the superintendence of Mr. Maclure's property on the
+Wabash, but lives in a very retired manner, devoted to the study of
+natural history, and to literary pursuits.
+
+[pg. 75] Harmony is now a large village, with about 600 inhabitants; the
+buildings, which are partly of brick, are detached from each other;
+the streets are at right angles, broad, and unpaved. The church built
+by Mr. Rapp has been transformed into an amateur theatre. The
+situation of Harmony is by no means unpleasant. The Wabash, a fine
+river, as broad as the Moselle, winds between banks which are now
+cultivated, but were lately covered with thick forests. A hilly tract,
+covered with woods, bounds the valley of the Wabash, which is
+frequently overflowed by the river, and thereby gains in fertility.
+The place itself lies rather higher than the valley, surrounded by
+orchards, and is not exposed to inundations. The Wabash divides at
+Harmony into two arms, the eastern of which is called Cutoff
+River,[85] and further down into several branches, forming many wooded
+islands, the largest of which are inhabited.
+
+New Harmony,[86] is surrounded on all sides by fields, which are from
+600 to 800 paces in diameter; all around are lofty forests, where
+settlers have everywhere cultivated detached patches. These people are
+generally called backwoodsmen, who live like half savages, without any
+education or religious instruction. The forests which they inhabit are
+very extensive, and the soil extremely fertile: vegetation is much
+more luxuriant than to the east of the Alleghanys; and, therefore, a
+short description of the natural productions of the country will not
+be out of place here.
+
+Some remarkable peculiarities strike the observer when he looks at the
+forests on the Wabash; one of these is the want of evergreens, if we
+except the _Viscum flavescens_, _Pursh_, _Bignonia cruciata_,
+_Equisetum hyemale_, and _Miegia macrosperma_. The leaves of that
+bignonia, for the most part, remain green in the winter, as well as
+those of the miegia, and the stalks of the _Equisetum hyemale_, at
+least, in mild winters, which often grow to the height of eight or ten
+feet in the dry forests. The planes often attain an enormous size, and
+are then generally hollow, and divided into several colossal branches.
+We measured several of these trees, and found one that was forty one
+feet five inches in circumference. The hollow inside was twelve feet
+in diameter, so that in our winter excursions we used to light a fire
+in it, where we sheltered from the wind. Tall tulip trees shoot up
+straight as masts, blossom, and bear seeds at their summits, unseen by
+human eye. Maples of great height and circumference, many species of
+oak, especially the mossy overcap oak (_Q. macrocarpa_), with its
+large acorns, which, at this time, lay on the ground, stand crowded
+together. A great many species of trees are mixed together; among them
+the _Gymnocladus Canadensis_, or _Guilandina Bonduc_, with its broad
+pods, the divers kinds of walnut trees, the _Gleditschia tricanthos_,
+with its formidable thorns; and many climbing plants twine round the
+trunks, and among them, the most beautiful of all, the _Bignonia
+radicans_.
+
+In the forests of Indiana the ground is covered with a thick
+undergrowth, fifteen, twenty, or thirty feet high, consisting chiefly
+of the papaw tree, the spinewood (_Laurus Benzoin_), and the red bud;
+the flowers of the two latter precede the leaf. Under these lower
+trees, shrubs cover [pg. 76] the ground. No pine, rhododendron, kalmia,
+azalea, magnolia, nor even the chestnut tree, are found in these
+forests; but they seem to be especially the native country of the
+beautiful catalpa tree, of which it was not known in what part of
+America it properly grew wild, and which here attains a considerable
+height and size.
+
+These lofty forests re-echo with the hammering of the numerous
+woodpeckers; and, during the winter, the scarlet cardinal (_Fring.
+cardinalis_) shines in the distance; and the titmouse (_Parus.
+bicolor_, and _Atricapillus_), and the nuthatch (_Sitta
+Carolinensis_), everywhere seek for insects and nuts.
+
+The inhabitants of these forests would never be in want of an ample
+supply of wood for fuel and for timber, if they had been at all
+careful. The black walnut and cherry tree wood are the best for
+cabinet work; and for fuel, the hickory, which affords more heat than
+beech wood. The price of wood, at Harmony, was one dollar for a cord;
+but the price is already rising, because the forest in the
+neighbourhood of the village is gradually cleared, and the carriage is
+more expensive.
+
+There are several kinds of officinal plants in the vicinity of
+Harmony; ginseng (_Panax_) grows close by the village, and its roots
+are still in request, but not so much as formerly. Another plant of
+the woods of Indiana, which is much esteemed, is the spurious Colombo
+root; likewise the peppermint, which grows in every part of the United
+States. The wax tree (_Myrica cerifera_), of the berries of which the
+green, fragrant tapers are made, does not grow in Indiana, but is
+found on the whole east coast, from New Jersey to Florida. A kind of
+bark, which is now much used, is that of the slippery elm (_Ulmus
+rubra_): if chewed, or softened for a moment in water, it dissolves
+into a viscous slime, and is found very useful in dressing wounds, as
+it is cooling, and allays the inflammation. It is said to have been
+applied with success in cholera, and is now sold, in powder, in all
+the apothecaries' shops. A teaspoonful of this bark, in boiling water,
+makes a very useful beverage, which is sweetened with sugar, and has
+the same effect as linseed. Michaux has given a print of this elm, and
+it would be desirable to cultivate it in our gardens.
+
+The country on the banks of the Wabash is as interesting to the
+zoologist as to the botanist; formerly there were great numbers of the
+bison or buffalo of the Anglo-Americans, the elk,[87] bear, and
+beaver; but they are now entirely extirpated. The Virginian deer is
+still pretty numerous, but is daily becoming more scarce: when Mr.
+Rapp first settled here, seventy of these deer were shot, in a day, in
+one of the Wabash islands. The wolf is still common, and seems to
+differ but little from the European, but is a different species from
+the wolf of the prairies of the Missouri; [pg. 77] it is said that there
+is a black wolf in the prairies of Illinois, which may, perhaps, be a
+distinct species. Of foxes, I saw only the grey, though the red fox is
+said to be found here. In the works that treat of the natural history
+of North America, there are many errors. The racoon is common in the
+forests of Harmony, and is never seen in the daytime; it is hunted in
+the night with dogs, which drive it into a tree. It does not sleep
+through the winter, for I often obtained it in that season. The
+opossum is also common, and lives much in the same manner as the
+racoon. The polecat, the otter, and the mink are common; the pine
+marten is said to be sometimes seen; the ermine is not rare in the
+prairies of Illinois. The marmot, or ground hog, grows to a
+considerable size, and is found in the islands of the Wabash; the
+musk-rat abounds in all the rivers. The rabbit, as it is called
+(_Lepus Americanus_), is nowhere so common as in Europe, yet is found
+in all parts of the country. Of squirrels there are many species.
+
+The most interesting of the birds of this part is the wild turkey,
+which was formerly extremely numerous, and is still pretty common. A
+large cock was sold at Harmony for a quarter of a dollar. A young man
+in the neighbourhood, who supplied the place with this delicate game,
+had often ten or fifteen hanging about his horse at the same time. The
+pheasant or heathcock is found in these forests, but in no great
+numbers. The prairie hen is common in the prairies of Illinois, and
+comes in large flocks to the neighbourhood of Harmony, as soon as the
+cold weather and snow set in. Partridges abound, and so do parrots
+(_Psitt. Carolinensis_) which remain here during the winter. No other
+kind of parrot seems to bear so great a degree of cold as this. We
+often saw them flying about in the forests, feeding on the fruit of
+the plane, when Reaumur's thermometer was at 11� below zero. In the
+mild climate of the Ohio and Wabash they remain all the year through.
+They are amusing birds in a cage, and become very tame.
+
+There are but few species of amphibia in the country about Harmony.
+Soft shell turtles and several kinds of _emys_ are numerous, such as
+the snapping turtle (_E. serpentina_), likewise _E. geographica_,
+_picta_, _pulchella_, &c.
+
+There are several lizards, but no great number of species. The
+rattle-snake is seldom seen, this country not being sufficiently dry
+and stony; the copper-head, on the contrary, is said not to be rare,
+but I cannot speak with certainty. The hognose-snake is very common.
+There are many kinds of adder in the Wabash that are not venomous.
+
+The proteus (_Menobranchus lateralis_, Harl.) of the Ohio, and of the
+great Canadian lakes, is found in the Wabash. The rude inhabitants
+have many superstitious notions and fables respecting several kinds of
+animals, especially serpents. Of the glass-snake (_Ophisaurus
+ventralis_), which easily breaks to pieces, they say, that when the
+pieces are placed together, they immediately unite: they affirm that
+the horn-snake, which has a horn or sting at the end of its tail,
+takes it in its mouth, and then runs along like a hoop; and that if it
+passes a tree it wounds it with its sting, which always makes the tree
+die. Mr. Thomas Say was once informed that a [pg. 78] planter had
+brought one of these snakes, and would prove the truth of this
+assertion. He sent for the man, and found that he had the tail of one
+of these snakes carefully wrapped up. Mr. Say asked him whether he
+must die if he pricked himself with this horn? The man answered
+"undoubtedly." Mr. Say immediately pricked himself with the horn and
+drew blood, but was not affected by it; and the impostor, who affirmed
+that he had witnessed the effects of the sting, excused himself by
+saying that he had been deceived by a neighbour who gave him the
+snake. The inhabitants of the country generally believe that venomous
+serpents sting both with the tongue and with the tail, that they
+fascinate other animals, an old, long since refuted fable, which,
+however, is occasionally revived in American journals, with other
+stories of a similar kind.
+
+There are many kinds of fish in the Wabash, on the whole the same as
+in the Ohio and the Mississippi: the cat-fish is said sometimes to
+weigh above 100 lbs. Several species of sturgeon and pikes are found
+here; the horn-fish, the buffalo (_Catastomus carpioles_), a large
+fish resembling the carp, &c. The remarkable paddle-fish is likewise
+met with, but not frequently, nor in all the rivers. Mr. Lesueur has
+given it the name of _ptalyrostra_, and has sent several specimens of
+it to Paris. This naturalist, during his long residence at Harmony,
+has very carefully studied this branch of zoology. He possesses a
+large collection of drawings and descriptions of this class, and
+specimens, for the most part stuffed. He has presented many of them to
+the National Museum at Paris; and it was his intention soon to visit
+Europe, and publish his observations on this subject, which will form
+an important supplement to the great work of Cuvier and Valenciennes.
+
+The bivalve shells (_Unio_, _Alasmodon_, and _Anodonta_), of which
+there are a great many different species, some of them very large and
+beautiful, are an interesting portion of the natural productions of
+the Ohio, the Wabash, and the tributary streams, especially Fox River.
+Several American naturalists have written on this subject. Mr. Say,
+who was the first, states the number of species of these bivalves at
+forty-four. He would have given descriptions and drawings of all the
+species existing in this country, as well on land as in the rivers, in
+his natural history of the North American testacea, had not death
+called him from this world, too soon for his friends and for science.
+He died on the 10th of October, 1834, soon after I had left him in
+good health on my second visit to Harmony. This part of the country
+has two species of crustacea (_Astacus Bartoni_, Bosc.), and (_Astacus
+affinis_, Say), which are here called craw-fish. These are the only
+large species of crustacea, but there are many smaller ones. Mr. Say,
+by many years' study, made himself fully acquainted with the insects.
+It is remarkable that the bee, which was brought to America by the
+Europeans, is now common in all the forests; the Indians are said to
+call this insect the white-man's fly. Many beautiful butterflies and
+moths adorn the woods of Indiana.
+
+The eminences about Harmony are of secondary formation, with a basis
+of limestone, and upon that, strata of sandstone, clay-slate and
+indurated clay. The land in the neighbourhood of [pg. 79] Harmony is
+extremely fertile. The fields are not manured for many successive
+years, and produce the finest crops; such land, however, in good
+situations, is no longer cheap. The climate is salubrious, and the
+inhabitants attain a great age. The winters are generally mild; the
+changes of temperature are often very great and rapid. The cholera has
+not yet visited this country. We arrived at the season called the
+Indian summer, when, with a temperature of +16� to 17� Reaumur, the
+atmosphere was gloomy and misty. Most persons experience, at this
+season, irregularities in the digestive organs, and head-ache. P�ppig
+gives a very accurate account of the North American autumn, and Mrs.
+Trollope felt the peculiar effect of this warm autumnal weather on
+strangers; it is, however, very remarkable that this state of the
+atmosphere in the Ohio Valley quickly put an end to the cholera, on
+which Dr. Daniel Drake wrote an essay.[88] The weather in the
+wintertime is generally bright and clear; sometimes there are fogs,
+and hoar frost, which encrusts the trees with the most beautiful
+crystals: parhelia and aurora borealis are frequently seen. On the
+14th of December we had a tremendous thunder-storm at daybreak;
+Reaumur's thermometer was at +2�; the rain, thunder, and lightning
+were equally violent; the latter covered the heavens with a sheet of
+fire, and was extremely dazzling; the thunder resembled a discharge of
+artillery. We were told that, in the preceding year, 1831, the weather
+had been exceedingly unhealthy, and the inhabitants even affirmed that
+wounds would not heal.
+
+Like the whole of the interior of North America, the country on the
+Wabash has still numerous traces of a very early extinct original
+population, of which even the present Indians have no traditions, and
+whose remains have been spoken of by many writers. Warden, in his
+account of the United States, and more particularly in the great work,
+entitled "Antiquit�s Mexicaines," has mentioned such remains in all
+the states, and collected much information on this subject. Here, too,
+in the neighbourhood of Harmony, there are ancient tumuli, which,
+externally, are exactly similar to those which are everywhere found in
+our German forests. Lesueur had examined many of these tumuli, and
+sent part of the articles found in them to France. Some of the most
+considerable tumuli were found on the spot, near the back of the
+village, where Rapp made his churchyard, and which is now planted with
+acacias. The bones of the Swabian peasants are here mingled with
+those of the aboriginal Indians. Lesueur dug through some of those
+tumuli, which are now much levelled, and covered with greensward, and
+found a right-angled oblong parallelogram, level at the bottom, formed
+of large flat stones, set edgewise, and likewise covered over with
+similar stones. Some decayed bones were found in it, of which I
+received a considerable number from Mr. Lesueur, and sent them to Mr.
+Blumenbach, at G�ttingen.[89] This mode of interment is not that of
+the present Indians, who themselves affirm that these tumuli were made
+by the whites. Most of the skulls which were found were without the
+bones of the face, and all were very much decayed. The race of men to
+which they belonged were not smaller than those now existing, and,
+consequently, afford no evidence of a dwarfish race, which has been
+fabulously [pg. 80] ascribed to America. Potsherds were found in many of
+the tumuli; they were made of a grey clay, and in general marked with
+stripes, or rings; it would appear that they had been moulded in a
+cloth, or basket, as they were marked with similar impressions, or
+figures. Mr. Lesueur has seen unbroken vessels of this kind, which
+were large, very flat, and had figured handles. Broken shells are
+frequently found intermixed with the dark grey clay of these vessels.
+In one of the tumuli was found, together with the human bones, the
+jawbones of an animal of the stag kind; in others, battle-axes,
+arrow-heads, and tobacco-pipe heads of clay, different in form from
+those now used in Indiana.
+
+One of these pipes was in the shape of a squatting frog, the mouth
+serving for the tobacco; some of them are represented in the
+accompanying woodcuts.[90] Some of the most interesting articles found
+in and near these graves, are the narrow, oblong, square pieces of
+flint, which those nations made use of instead of knives. They are
+from two to two inches and a half long, and scarcely half an inch
+broad; very thin and very sharp on all the four sides. Several of
+these knives were discovered near New Harmony, and Mr. Lesueur found
+one during my stay there. There is a very remarkable coincidence of
+these knives with the perfectly similar instruments of obsidian or
+volcanic glass, which are found, even now, in Mexico, some of which
+Mr. T. Say brought with him, from his journey to that country, and
+wrote a paper respecting them.[91] In the [pg. 81] forty-eighth plate, I
+have represented the two kinds of stone knives together, as they seem
+to testify the affinity of the aborigines of the interior of North
+America with those of Mexico, which is supported by other reasons.
+
+  [Illustration: Indian pipes]
+
+About fifteen miles from Harmony, lower down the Wabash, is a part of
+the bank known by the name of the Bone Bank, where the river has
+partly cut through a hill, or laid it bare, in which there are numbers
+of human bones seen imbedded in the bank. Mr. Lesueur sent a perfect
+skull from this spot to Blumenbach. An old tree having fallen down on
+this place, he saw under the roots an entire human skeleton; this,
+therefore, was undoubtedly a burying-place. While the observer deeply
+regrets that he is wholly without information respecting these
+remarkable remains of antiquity, he feels that the present white
+population of North America may justly be reproached for neglecting or
+destroying them. Nobody in Harmony was able to give any account of the
+names of the Indian tribes who inhabited the country at the time when
+this village was founded. One of the first settlers of the country
+about Mount Vernon, who had grown up in Kentucky among the Indians,
+but had removed, in 1806, to the forests on the Lower Wabash--where at
+that time there were no white settlers--had been well acquainted with
+the Indians about Harmony, and frequently visited them in their huts.
+He was the only man who was able to give me any information about
+them. He called them Muskoghe Indians; this name, however, seems to be
+incorrect. They lived in this part of the country till 1810; but in
+the year preceding the battle of Tippekanoe they all removed, and did
+not return. They were not numerous, and lived chiefly about the mouth
+of the Wabash, and on the Big Creek.[92] They were a good-looking,
+robust race; wore a kind of apron, and had bows and arrows, in the
+use of which they were very expert. They had among them thirty or
+forty indifferent guns; they smoked Sumach leaves in wooden pipes,[93]
+the tube of which was made of cane. Their huts, at the mouth of the
+Wabash, were composed of large bundles of reeds, lined inside with
+deer-skins. Many of these Indians fastened their pipes to the
+tomahawk. Their heads were shorn, with the exception of a tuft at the
+back, like the Indians of the Mississippi and Lower Missouri. They
+coloured their faces with red paint. To the whites they were friendly,
+visited the first settlers in their dwellings, and reposed around
+their hearths, especially in bad weather. At that time there were elks
+and beavers, yet in no great numbers; but bears and wolves in
+abundance. My informant had killed many bears, and great numbers of
+wild turkeys.
+
+[pg. 82] The early history of Indiana mentions, as the inhabitants of
+this State, when the French first settled here, the Kickapoos,
+Musquitons, Potanons, and some other nations, remnants of which are
+still to be found at the sources of the Wabash, as well as the
+Piankishaws, Miamis, and Viandots. In the year 1804, a treaty was
+concluded with them at Vincennes for the purchase of the lands between
+the Wabash and the Ohio, after which they emigrated.[94] Some
+well-informed inhabitants of Harmony, who, at the time of the Indiana
+emigration, when the United States had repeatedly bought land of those
+people, saw the several dislodged tribes pass through this country,
+assured me that the character of their physiognomy was often
+essentially different; and I myself found this confirmed both in North
+and South America; though the fundamental features of the American
+race are everywhere the same. All these Indians are now totally
+extirpated or expelled from Indiana, and the country enjoys the
+advantage of being peopled by the backwoodsmen.
+
+The fertile and salubrious country of Harmony has attracted a great
+number of settlers, who have begun to thin the great forests of
+Indiana. These settlers are usually called backwoodsmen, because they
+live in the remote forests. They are a robust, rough race of men, of
+English or Irish origin. They dwell very isolated, scattered in the
+forests, and but seldom come to the towns, only when business calls
+them. There is a school at Harmony where the children learn to read
+and write; two dollars are paid quarterly, and the children receive
+instruction in the morning and afternoon; but in the country the young
+people grow up without any education, and are, probably, no better
+than the Indians themselves. In the Western States, the sixteenth
+section of the Congress land (_i. e._, land belonging to the
+Government) is always assigned for the benefit of the schools, but is
+not always employed according to the first intention. At this time
+there was in the state of Indiana only one college; it was at Blooming
+Town.[95] There was no clergyman at Harmony, and, with the exception
+of the meetings of some religious sects, the inhabitants were
+destitute of both religious and school instruction. Business, or
+festive occasions, bring the backwoodsmen into the town, where they
+indulge their love of whisky, which generally retards their return
+homeward. They have a good race of horses, and are bold horsemen; even
+the women are frequently seen on the saddle, and whole families travel
+in this way--man, woman, and child ofttimes mounted on the same beast.
+There is nothing characteristic in their costume, like the original
+dresses which are met with in the country in Germany; but they wear a
+medley, and bad imitation of all the fashions of English towns; caps,
+felt and straw hats, frocks, great-coats, plaids, &c. The women, too,
+endeavour to imitate the fashions of the towns, wear large hats with
+loose veils, and gaudy plaid mantles, which, altogether, have often a
+most ludicrous effect in these remote forests. The winter dress of the
+men is often not ill chosen, though perfectly novel to a stranger. At
+that season they wear great-coats made of the common woollen
+horsecloths, white or green, with gay stripes on the collar, cuffs,
+and pockets; [pg. 83] nay, some are striped all over like zebras: such a
+coat, of the commonest kind, cannot be had here for less than eight or
+ten dollars. Noisy parties of these people frequently assemble at the
+public-houses of Harmony, gather round the fire, and let the whisky
+circulate briskly, while their horses are frequently left the whole
+day, standing in the street, amid rain and snow. On Sunday, which is
+kept by many of the inhabitants, though there is no divine service,
+they are more decently clad, wash their faces, and make some attempt
+at putting their hair in order, which hangs dishevelled about their
+faces. The young men often went to the chase, others played in the
+streets, generally at ball, but a great number remained at their work,
+and the peasants and farmers, with their huge wagons, followed their
+usual occupations. On certain days, especially when a magistrate, a
+president, or a governor was to be chosen, all were gathered together,
+for they all take great interest in the government of the country, and
+would not, on any account, renounce the privilege which, in their
+estimation, makes them important statesmen. On such election days,
+whole troops of them ride into the town; the streets are crowded with
+their horses, which are tied up, and the whisky-shops resound with
+their tumultuous discussions. Every man gives his vote; disputes
+arise; and, as in the Polish diets, their excited passions frequently
+lead to blows. They are all great politicians, and some of them are
+well acquainted with the newspapers. In the winter, as soon as snow
+fell, sledge parties commenced at Harmony. Six or eight persons were
+on separate seats, two and two together, upon one sledge; others
+amused themselves with skating, for which, however, they had not much
+opportunity in the winter of 1832-3. There were frequent balls at the
+inns; on New Year's Eve they literally danced the whole night through.
+
+Agriculture is still in its infancy about New Harmony, and the people
+depend on the extraordinary fertility of the soil. In the immediate
+vicinity of the town land is not cheap, having already risen to
+fifteen dollars per acre; whereas, at the distance of two miles, there
+was still a considerable quantity of Congress land, which might be had
+at one dollar per acre. There was a tax of fifty cents, or half a
+dollar,[96] on every quarter of a square mile of land. What is called
+Congress land, is frequently taken possession of, for a time, by new
+comers, who have no right to it. They fell the wood, erect their huts,
+and nobody hinders them in their proceedings till the lawful owner
+ejects them, who has purchased the land of the Government. A square
+mile of [pg. 84] Congress land was still to be had for 100 dollars; but
+these lands are subject to the periodical inundations of the Wabash,
+when the farmers are obliged to fly with all their effects to more
+elevated stations. They have then to look for their cattle in the
+great forests, and drive them away; but they cannot always find all
+the animals, many of which perish. The fertility of the soil is
+increased by these inundations. Congress land which was not exposed to
+inundation, could be bought for one dollar twenty-five cents per acre.
+This high water is said often to present an interesting scene. Hogs
+and other animals, even the opossum, have been found on low trees,
+where they had sought protection.
+
+The chief vegetable production of this part of the country is maize,
+which grows to the height of twelve or thirteen feet; the ears are
+very large and heavy; I found some weighing fourteen to fifteen
+ounces, and nearly three inches in diameter, in which I counted above
+1,000 grains. They ripen in September, October, November, and
+December, and are often left standing through the winter, till wanted
+for use. There are fifteen varieties of this important plant; one
+kind, called sweet corn, is particularly good when roasted in an
+unripe state. It is calculated that the best soil will yield 100
+bushels of corn per acre. Very good cakes and bread are prepared of
+maize flour, and there are many other ways of dressing it. When
+boiled with milk it is called mush. All living creatures in this
+country subsist, almost exclusively, on this invaluable production.
+When the whites arrived in America numerous Indian tribes subsisted on
+it; quadrupeds, birds, nay, even fish, are fond of it. At the places
+where the flat boats, laden with maize, land, the fish collect and
+assemble in great numbers, and fall an easy prey to the fishermen. At
+this time the corn was sold at six and a half cents per bushel at
+Harmony; whereas, on the frontiers of Canada, two dollars were paid
+for it. Living is, consequently, very cheap on the banks of the
+Wabash. The maize is brought to market in large wagons, drawn by four
+oxen, and a considerable quantity is thence sent by water carriage.
+Other kinds of grain--wheat, rye, barley, and oats--which ripen in
+June, are likewise cultivated. Barley is grown for the brewers; and
+oats, in considerable quantities, for the horses. Potatoes, too, are
+extensively cultivated, but they are by no means so good and mealy as
+in Germany. There is a great variety of culinary vegetables. There are
+abundance of apples, but not many pears, which do not thrive; peaches
+are good, and very productive; quantities fall to the ground, where
+they are consumed by the hogs; plums and cherries are rarely grown;
+the latter are not so good as in Europe, but very fruitful. The vine
+was formerly cultivated, but it is now quite neglected. According to
+Warden, cotton is grown at Vincennes, Princetown, and Harmony, but
+this does not seem to be the case at present. This plant does not
+thrive beyond the 31st degree of latitude. The inhabitants grow hemp
+and flax for their own consumption, and some tobacco; bad cigars are
+made at Harmony, and, in general, good tobacco is rarely to be met
+with in the United States. Maple sugar is manufactured in great
+abundance in Indiana. Warden says that, in 1810, 50,000 lbs. [pg. 85]
+were made in this State, and, at present, it was worth seven or eight
+cents a pound. Many of the inhabitants obtain, in the spring, about
+100 lbs. of this sugar. In this part of the country the corn is not
+thrashed, but generally trodden out by horses; a very imperfect
+process, which appears to have originated in the times of the ancient
+Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans.
+
+Next to agriculture the breeding of cattle is an important object
+among the backwoodsmen; but is likewise ill understood. The breed of
+swine furnishes the principal supply for food and exportation, great
+quantities of pork being sent to New Orleans. Mr. Owen had established
+a whisky distillery, and fattened the swine on the refuse. About 1,500
+barrels of whisky, worth ten dollars a barrel, were made every year in
+Mr. Owen's distillery. Great numbers of swine are in the woods of
+Indiana, far from all human dwellings, where they grow very fat by the
+abundance of oak and beech mast. They are of a reddish brown colour,
+with round black spots; there are some quite wild, which anybody is at
+liberty to shoot. These animals are never housed, even in the vicinity
+of Harmony. We observed them, in our excursions, in the depth of
+winter, when the young ones often perish with cold; and we also saw
+them eaten by the mothers. Dead swine were lying about in all
+directions, partly devoured by others. The negligence and want of
+feeling with which the animals are treated, are very great; and,
+accordingly, the breed of cattle can never flourish. The cattle, which
+are very fine, are kept in the open air day and night, amidst ice and
+snow, with which their backs are covered; the same may be said of the
+horses; nay, in cold moonlight nights, we saw these animals standing
+in the street, near their master's dwelling, as if they hoped to be
+let in. The animals are generally fed in the morning with maize, and a
+woman usually appears at an early hour, in her plaid, to milk the
+cows.
+
+The cattle of this country are large and handsome, very hardy, and do
+not differ in figure or colour from those of Germany; no food is given
+them in winter but the dry leaves of maize. No clover or other forage
+is cultivated, so that the cattle and horses are confined to straw,
+the bark of trees, and the green reed, miegia, which forms a thick
+underwood in the forests on the Wabash. Everywhere one sees the bark
+and twigs gnawed, and even the fruit trees are often damaged in this
+manner. Horses and cattle frequently starve to death in the winter. I
+was told that the animals gnaw, in preference, the nettle-tree
+(_Celtis occidentalis_), the hack-berry (_Celtis crassifolia_), and
+the sugar maple. It is remarkable that the swine, which otherwise
+refuse no species of fruit, will not touch that of the papaw tree
+(_Asimina_). All the beef in this country is of a bad quality,
+because, as I have said, no forage is cultivated. In Pennsylvania it
+is quite the reverse; there a great deal of clover is grown, and the
+beef is, consequently, good. In Indiana pork is said to be much better
+and easier of digestion than to the east of the Alleghanys. We saw but
+few sheep, and no goats, at Harmony. There were plenty of geese and
+domestic fowls, but only a few tame ducks.
+
+The mode of tilling the ground for the different kinds of grain, has
+been described by [pg. 86] many travellers; I will therefore merely
+observe that the plough is different in its construction from that
+used in Germany, and that the oxen are attached to it by a very
+peculiar yoke, which consists of a long, thick, crooked piece of wood,
+which is laid horizontally over the necks of the two oxen, with two
+bows underneath, through which the heads of the animals are put.[97]
+
+  [Illustration: Neck-yoke and plow]
+
+My stay at New Harmony, which was at first intended to be only for a
+few days, was prolonged by serious indisposition, nearly resembling
+cholera, to a four months' winter residence. At any other place in
+this country I should have extremely regretted such a loss of time,
+but here I derived much instruction and entertainment from my
+intercourse with two highly-informed men, Mr. Thomas Say and Mr.
+Lesueur, who, during my two months' illness, gave me constant proofs
+of kindness, and endeavoured to make our time pass agreeably and
+usefully. I received also much kindness from other estimable families,
+Messrs. Owen (who were educated by Fellenberg, in Switzerland), Mr.
+Maclure and his sister, and Mr. Twigg. My walks and hunting excursions
+with the two naturalists were very instructive. Mr. Say's house was in
+a garden, where he cultivated many interesting plants of the interior
+of Western America. I there saw a large _Maclura aurantiaca_
+(Nuttall), the bow or yellow wood, or Osage orange, from the river
+Arkansas, of the wood of which many Indian tribes make their bows. It
+is a prickly tree, with very tough wood. There was one at St. Louis,
+in the garden of Mr. Pierre Chouteau, which did not, however,
+flourish.[98] Dr. Pitcher had the kindness to give me some of the
+seeds of this tree, [pg. 87] which, however, have not succeeded. In Mr.
+Say's garden I likewise saw _Euphorbia marginata_, from Arkansas,
+several beautiful _phlox_; and the _Lonicera sempervirens_ was laden
+with its ripe fruit. The _Euphorbia marginata_ flourishes exceedingly
+well at Bonn, where it was raised from seeds which I brought.
+
+Mr. Say's zoological collection was confined to insects and shells. He
+was less anxious to possess a complete collection than to have a good
+library, which, thanks to Mr. Maclure, he really possessed, and new
+insects and shells were sent to him from all parts of the United
+States, which he immediately described. He had a very extensive
+correspondence, even with Europe, and received many conchylia, which
+he used and compared for his work on American conchology. This work
+was entirely got up here in Harmony, for Mrs. Say drew and coloured
+the figures very faithfully after nature, which were engraved by an
+artist, engaged by Mr. Maclure; the text also was printed there. Mr.
+Say's entomological collection was continually damaged by the
+rapacious insects, which are much more dangerous and destructive here
+than in Europe. The most fatal to the zoological collections, in this
+country, besides the common European moth (_Phal�na sarcitella_), are
+the _Dermestes lardarius_, _Anthrinus muscorum_, _Dermestes vulpinus_,
+_Necrobia violetia_, _Acarus destructor_, and several others, among
+which there are some brought from Europe.
+
+Mr. Lesueur's labours were chiefly in the higher orders of the animal
+kingdom; he had explored the country in many directions, was
+acquainted with everything remarkable, collected and prepared all
+interesting objects, and had already sent considerable collections to
+France. He was a skilful draughtsman, and his portfolios of drawings,
+made during his voyage round the world, and in his residence in
+America, afforded us much gratification during the winter. He had paid
+great attention to the fishes of the Wabash, Ohio, and Mississippi,
+for which his frequent visits to New Orleans had given him the best
+opportunity. His friend Barrabino, who died prematurely in that city,
+and took much interest in the sciences, had been of great assistance
+to him. It would be a pity if the interesting labours of Mr. Lesueur,
+in natural history, were not communicated to the learned world during
+his lifetime.
+
+I shall always retain a most pleasing recollection of the excursions
+which we made in the neighbourhood of Harmony, with Mr. Say, and to
+greater distances, with Mr. Lesueur. One of the most agreeable was
+when we sailed down the Wabash, and landed on its wooded islands.
+Immediately on the west of the river, is Fox Island, a large thickly
+wooded tract, between the Wabash and Fox River.[99] We generally left
+Harmony by water, in bright, sunny weather. The Wabash divides into
+several arms, forming beautiful romantic islands, covered with tall
+forests, partly surrounded by quantities of drift wood. The water of
+the river is clear and dark green, and the bottom, which is plainly
+seen, is covered with large bivalve shells (_Unio_), as well as with
+several kinds of snails. High trees uniformly clothe the shore, and
+colossal, wide-spreading planes rise above the dense forests. In some
+places there are sand-banks, where shells are [pg. 88] found in
+abundance, and where the track of the racoon and the mink, which come
+here in the night to seek their food, are imprinted in all directions
+on the wet ground. Under the old roots of trees on the bank, which is
+from ten to twenty feet high, we saw the burrows of the minks, into
+which it had taken a quantity of shells. The common people here think
+that this is done by the musk-rat, which is certainly a mistake. The
+musk-rat lives on vegetables, and it is only the small beasts of prey
+that live on shell-fish. There were various species of ducks, which
+rose in flocks before us, and flew rapidly to the undisturbed parts of
+the banks. Besides the common wild duck, which was the most numerous,
+there were the beautiful wood duck, the blue-winged teal, and the
+pintail duck, or sea-pheasant. After proceeding about three quarters
+of an hour, we usually landed on Fox Island, on the right bank,
+fastened our boat to the trunk of a large fallen tree, and then went
+up the steep bank into a thick, lofty forest, where the high reeds
+were intersected with small, narrow paths, made by the horses and
+cattle of the neighbouring farmers. From our several landing places,
+we had to proceed only about 100 steps across the island to the Fox
+River, which runs here, for a pretty considerable distance, parallel
+to the Wabash, and joins it below Fox Island.[100] The stream is
+highly picturesque, with romantic banks, large uprooted trees,
+colossal planes, magnificent oaks, hickory, shellbark hickory, &c.
+Here grows the lofty _gymnocladus_, with its large, broad pods, and
+the beautiful catalpa. _Bignonia radicans_ and _cruciata_ wind round
+the trunks, as well as thick, clustering vines (_Hedera quinquefolia_)
+and the poison vine. Vast quantities of fallen trees lay in the water,
+and, when it was low, often formed a kind of bridge. The trunks of the
+plane are very remarkable; they are often so thick that five or six
+men cannot span them. When of this size they are generally hollow.
+These trees are suffered to grow so old, because they yield but
+indifferent timber. Twenty or thirty feet from the ground, the trunk
+usually divides into several thick branches, which rise to a very
+great height; they have a bark of dazzling whiteness, which forms a
+singular contrast with the brown forests, when leafless and bare in
+winter. This tree never attains such a thickness and height in Europe,
+and hence the white colour of the branches is wanting. The quiet,
+lonely Fox River is covered, during the whole day, with numerous
+ducks. Whenever we approached cautiously through the reeds, and over
+the dry leaves, scattered on the ground, we could immediately fire at
+them. The kingfisher (_Alcedo alcyon_), is constantly seen here, and
+many species of birds, particularly the blue-crested roller (_Garrulus
+cristatus_), came to the water to drink. Unluckily we had no European
+hounds, which would have been of great service to us, and thus, from
+want of them, we often lost the ducks we had shot. The turkey buzzards
+were seen hovering in the air, and, after wet weather, were often
+observed sitting in the sunshine, with outspread wings, on the highest
+trees. If we shot a bird, and did not immediately pick it up, it was
+sure to be devoured by these ravenous creatures. If the buzzards were
+driven away, the cunning crows supplied their place. The whole air was
+soon filled with these buzzards, hovering round and round, [pg. 89]
+while numbers of others sat together on the high trees. If we shot at
+them when flying, they immediately vomited; this I likewise observed
+in Brazil. We found here some heads of the paddle-fish, which lives in
+the stream. If we left the banks of the rivers, and advanced far into
+the forests, we had often to clamber over fallen trunks of trees,
+covered with moss, and to penetrate through matted reeds, where we
+heard the voice of the grey squirrel, and the hammering of the
+numerous woodpeckers. Among the entangled climbing plants, we often
+saw, throughout the whole winter, the beautiful cardinal, or red-bird;
+finches of various kinds; and on the decayed trees, on the ground,
+some kinds of _Troglodytes_. Towards the end of autumn, and early in
+warm days in February, nay, even in December and January, we often saw
+in Fox River, on stones, and old submersed trunks of trees, large
+tortoises basking in the sun, which we sometimes shot at with our
+fowling-pieces, but we seldom got them. They are very shy, and plunge
+into the water as soon as any one approaches.
+
+Towards noon the scattered sportsmen usually re-assembled, with their
+booty, round a cheerful fire, under ancient plane trees, on the bank
+of Fox River. Our frugal repast, which we had brought with us, was
+seasoned by the exercise in the open air, in the fine forests of
+Indiana and Illinois. Tortoises, shell-fish, birds, &c., were
+deposited in our boat. Mr. Lesueur frequently accompanied us in these
+excursions. Once, on the 7th of March, he found, on Fox Island, a
+couple of marmots above ground, one of which ran into its burrow,
+while the other sought refuge on a low tree, where, however, it was
+shot. We then dug for the other, in hopes of finding it, but the
+burrow went so far and deep into the ground, that we were forced to
+give it up. This circumstance may serve as a proof that the animals
+which sleep throughout the winter make their appearance about this
+time.
+
+In our excursions we often visited some others of the numerous islands
+in the Wabash, being particularly attracted thither by the loud cries
+of the wild turkey; their voice is exactly similar to that of the
+European turkey. We could hear them scratching among the dry leaves on
+the ground, in search of food. If we surprised them, they were
+generally too far off for our fowling-pieces, loaded with small shot,
+for they ran away with extraordinary rapidity. Turkey Island seemed to
+be a favourite place of resort. At the upper end of the island drifted
+wood was frequently piled up to such a height, that it was difficult
+to clamber over it, and among this wood there were generally many
+otters. Here we often found wild turkeys, and even the Virginian deer;
+and it is really a fine sight to see a flock of these wild turkeys fly
+across the river, or a swarm of wild geese, with loud screams, swim
+down the stream. The grey eagle was often seen sitting on the lofty
+plane trees, on the bank; and the white-headed eagle hovered in the
+air, at a great height.
+
+On another hunting excursion, up the Wabash, we proceeded as far as
+Black River,[101] a stream which falls into the Wabash, three miles
+from Harmony. On the 5th of January, at eight [pg. 90] o'clock in the
+morning, the mercury in Reaumur's thermometer was twelve and a half
+degrees above freezing point, and the fish leaped above the surface
+of the water as in summer. Near some small log-houses the people were
+employed in felling the high trees, and our boatmen observed that
+those new settlers had taken possession of this Congress land without
+any right to do so. Such irregularities are very frequent here; thus,
+for instance, they cut down large trees on Mr. Maclure's property for
+making their flat boats, and yet nobody calls them to account. These
+are the backwoodsmen of Illinois and Indiana. On the high banks of the
+river we observed in the forest a mink-trap. It nearly resembles, in
+miniature, the great bear-trap; is covered on all sides with
+brushwood, so that the animal can enter only at a certain place. The
+Black River, which, in some parts, is wide and expanded, was now
+rather narrow and shallow, the water of a pure green colour. The
+bottom consists chiefly of sand or clay; it is contracted at the
+mouth, where a quantity of sand has accumulated, and where poplars and
+lofty planes grow; colossal vines wound round their trunks, of which
+we cut off one that was very thick, as a specimen. While our boatmen
+were engaged in this work, and in looking for shell-fish, we advanced
+several miles up the stream, where we met with frequent obstacles in
+the forest. The large dry leaves of the planes made such a rustling,
+that we could seldom get near the ducks, numbers of which were
+swimming on the stream. I collected on the bank the beautiful
+orange-coloured seeds of the _Celastrus scandens_, and several others.
+We generally returned home with ducks and other birds, but we were
+unsuccessful in our chase of the wild turkeys, of which we sometimes
+saw whole flocks fly across the Wabash. Many an hour we passed in
+these forests, watching for ducks and birds of prey; where, while we
+stood concealed in a hollow plane, the small birds sometimes flew
+almost into the face of the sportsman, or settled on his gun.
+
+In order to explore the forests of Harmony, in the southern direction,
+Mr. Say took me to a neighbouring estate of Mr. Maclure, on Rush
+Creek, through a romantic, lofty forest, where very fine tulip trees,
+with thick and high trunks, as straight as a ship's mast, and very
+rough bark, were growing. This tall, splendid tree bears its fine
+large flowers only at the very summit. The wood is of a greenish pale
+yellow colour, and is used by cabinet makers. The red-headed
+woodpecker was almost the only bird that was seen here. The whole
+track consists of steep hills, separated by small valleys, on which we
+particularly observed the ancient tumuli of the aboriginal inhabitants
+of these forests. Passing through a valley we came to Rush Creek,
+which we crossed by a very ruinous bridge of branches of trees, to the
+opposite bank, where _Hydrangea arborescens_ grew. Several species of
+maple grow here, which have certainly not been properly distinguished
+and classed. Their trunks, covered with rough bark, are often not to
+be spanned by three men, and they grow perfectly straight. Near the
+junction of the Rush Creek and the Wabash, we came to the small
+log-house of a tenant of Mr. Maclure, where the woman was engaged in
+domestic employments, while the children were picking bones, probably
+[pg. 91] of wild turkeys, with which they ate maize bread. In front of
+the house lay large blocks of catalpa wood, which, when fresh cut, is
+of a brownish yellow colour, and emits a peculiar smell. We were told
+of a stream in the neighbourhood, the water of which was said to have
+killed many persons. We visited this dangerous water, which is very
+cold, but does not appear to have any peculiar ingredients. One of our
+party, who had often drunk of it, without injury, affirmed that those
+men had not been killed by the water, but by whisky; probably,
+however, death was caused by drinking this excessively cold water when
+they were overheated.
+
+In a dense forest, some miles to the north-west of Harmony, was a
+narrow pond, or, rather, long, broad ditch, called Long Pond, which,
+at certain seasons of the year, is connected with Fox River, to which
+we sometimes made excursions. Beyond the Wabash, in this direction,
+the forest has a sandy soil, which, however, is soon succeeded by a
+rich clay. A man well acquainted with the country was our conductor;
+we were obliged to force our way through the closely-matted reeds,
+where there was no path, and our clothes were completely torn by them.
+On all sides we heard the bells of the oxen and horses, and our guide
+easily found his own beasts, which knew his voice. He had wished me to
+take a compass, which was not done, and we, in fact, twice lost our
+way, in consequence; for it is not easy to discover one's latitude in
+such thick, bewildering reed forests. Woodpeckers and squirrels were
+the usual fruits of our excursions in this wilderness. After passing a
+couple of isolated habitations, we came to a hollow in the forest,
+about a mile long, and full of water. This was the Long Pond, in which
+many varieties of water plants were growing.
+
+Our guide had taken a hatchet and a basket, in order to dig up the
+roots of a yellow-flowering _Nymph�a_,[102] which was growing in
+luxuriance, and which he intended to employ as a poultice to a swelled
+face. The surface of the water was covered with an elegant plant,
+_Azolla Caroliniana_ (Wild), which formed mossy verdant spots, and is
+here found on all standing water. The cardinal and the blue-crested
+roller frequented this place; and near a field of maize, in the
+forest, I saw large flocks of parrots, of which we often shot many
+with great ease. They were not shy, and soon re-assembled after our
+shot had dispersed them. Their manner and note much resembled those
+of the long-tailed paroquet of Brazil.[103] With a shrill cry they
+flew rapidly from tree to tree, when their beautiful bright green
+colour was seen to great advantage. Mr. Bodmer has given a very
+faithful representation of one of these flocks.[104] They eat the
+fruit of the planes; and if we did not disturb them, they sat in a
+row, close together, to warm themselves in the faint beams of the
+January sun. We sometimes found a great number of turkey buzzards
+collected about the carcass of a dead animal; some sitting crowded on
+the high trees, others hovering in the air; but it was not easy to get
+at them. We occasionally met with horses, which, in these [pg. 92]
+wildernesses, familiarly approach those who happen to pass, in the
+hope of receiving salt from them. On our return home we were often
+gratified with the view of a splendid fiery evening sky on the Wabash;
+the lofty crowns of the forest trees appeared to burn, while the
+snow-white stems of the tall planes assumed a roseate tint, and
+reflected their beauty in the smooth surface of the water.
+
+The winter which we passed at Harmony was, on the whole, mild.
+Woodpeckers, pigeons, thrushes, the great lark, the cardinal, the
+blue-bird, and many others, were seen in the orchards during the whole
+winter. The coveys of partridges lay in the fields of maize, or the
+thorn hedges, sheltered and protected from the cold. There were often
+very warm days in the middle of winter. On such a day, the 31st of
+January, I found, at noon, the thermometer being +5� R., at the foot
+of a thick plane tree, a great number of the red and black spotted
+lady-bird, which were half frozen. Tortoises were seen, on warm days,
+during the whole winter. In the middle of February, a great number of
+the white maple, called also the soft or swamp maple, were in blossom
+in the forests; and, towards the end of that month, the song of many
+birds resounded through the woods and orchards. Flights of cranes
+passed over. The _Arabis bulbosa_ (M�hlenb.) blossomed, as well as the
+hazel, yet there were still some cold days. The Americans have a
+proverb--"When winter comes in like a lion, it goes out like a lamb,"
+and _vice versa_. This winter, however, the cold had not set in early.
+At the beginning of March we had frost. On the 2nd of March, at eight
+in the morning, Reaumur's thermometer was at -16�; and at twelve
+o'clock at noon, -9�. Small pieces of water were frozen over; the
+ducks, especially the pintail ducks, which were now constantly
+disturbed in the Wabash, by the navigation and by the sportsman,
+sought for small pieces of open water; and when they were driven from
+these, repaired to the woods or the maize fields. The blackbird and
+the robin sought their scanty food on the banks of the brooks. Many
+species of animals were, however, in motion at the beginning of March.
+Numbers of tortoises appeared; the note of the owl was heard in the
+forests, even in the daytime; the wood-snipe fluttered about, and the
+young leaves of the _sambucus_, and the flowers of the _corylus_, gave
+an enlivening appearance to the forest. The voice of the turtle-dove
+was heard as early as the 8th of February; insects buzzed about;
+flocks of migratory pigeons flew towards the north and east; and on
+the 9th, the first steam-boat went up the Wabash.
+
+We had satisfactory accounts of the sanitary state of the southern and
+western parts of the United States. At Cincinnati the violence of the
+cholera had abated at the commencement of the Indian summer; on the
+Ohio it had generally ceased; and St. Louis, by the latest reports,
+was perfectly healthy. Mr. Bodmer, who had made an excursion to New
+Orleans, in December and January, found the cholera still there, but
+it had greatly abated; and I therefore resolved to make preparations
+for proceeding on our journey, as soon as our collections were packed
+up and sent off.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[83] Robert Owen (1771-1858) was a prominent English socialist and
+propagandist. Rising from the ranks of workingmen, by shrewd business
+capacity he acquired a fortune, which he devoted to the improvement of
+the conditions of working people, and to the spread of principles of
+co-operation and education. His factory and schools at New Lanark,
+Scotland, became famous, and were visited by eminent reformers. He was
+also instrumental in securing the first Factory Act, protecting the
+rights of children. In 1825 he purchased New Harmony, Indiana, for the
+purpose of establishing a co-operative community. Owen's connection
+with this experiment was dissolved about 1828, although his sons
+remained on the property many years. The latter years of his life were
+entirely devoted to theoretical discussion, erratic journalism, and
+socialistic experimentation. He is considered the founder of the
+co-operative movement in England.
+
+William Maclure (1763-1840), a wealthy merchant, geologist, and
+philanthropist, made an unsuccessful attempt (1819) to found an
+agricultural school at Alicaut, Spain, for the benefit of the poorer
+classes. In 1824 he went with Robert Owen to New Harmony and took
+charge of the educational department. The following year, however,
+together with a hundred and fifty followers, he withdrew to found
+Macluria. Later, they purchased the New Harmony establishment, and for
+a short time conducted a school of industry destined to early failure.
+In 1827, because of failing health, he went to Mexico, where he died
+(1840).--ED.
+
+[84] Jean Baptiste Audebert (1759-1800), an eminent French painter,
+engraver, and naturalist, published _A Natural History of Apes,
+Lemurs, and Galeopitheci_, with numerous plates (1800), and _A History
+of Humming Birds, Fly Catchers, Jacamars and Promerap_ (1 vol., 1802).
+Audebert at his death left unfinished several works on birds,
+subsequently edited by Vieillot and Destray.--ED.
+
+[85] See Plate 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[86] See Plate 25, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[87] _Cervus major_, or _Canadensis_. I have retained the American
+name of elk for this animal, but it must not be confounded with the
+elendthier (_Cervus alces_), which is sometimes called elk, in
+Prussia. The name wapiti, given to it by the English, which is derived
+from one of the Indian languages, ought never to be used, because it
+is scarcely known to anybody, even in America.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[88] Edward P�ppig (1798-1868) was educated as a naturalist at
+Leipzig. He travelled in Cuba and the United States (1822-24), and
+subsequently went to South America, returning to Germany in 1832. In
+1845 he was elected professor of zo�logy at the University of Leipzig
+and died in 1868. He wrote _Reise in Chila, Peru und auf dem
+Amazonenstromer_ (Leipzig, 1835-36), and _Landschaftliche Ansichten
+und erl�uterude Darstellungen aus dem Gebiete der Erdbunde_ (Leipzig,
+1838).
+
+For Mrs. Trollope, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 44,
+note 24; for Doctor Drake, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p.
+121, note 61.--ED.
+
+[89] For a brief sketch of Lesueur, see our volume xvi, p. 138, note
+60.
+
+Johann Friedrich Blumenbach (1752-1840) was a distinguished professor
+in the University of G�ttingen. As a recognition of his ability, he
+was in 1812 elected secretary of the Royal Society of Sciences.--ED.
+
+[90] Mr. Lesueur sketched these from memory, having parted with the
+originals.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See opposite page for illustration of Indian pipes.
+
+[91] See the "Disseminator" for 1831. Say writes--"Some arrow-heads
+and knives made of flint were found in the same tumulus, which are
+perfectly like those often found on the surface. These arrow-heads are
+generally known, but the instrument which probably served as a knife,
+deserves more particular consideration. It is from an inch and a half
+to two inches and a quarter long, from three-tenths to seven-tenths
+broad, and has two edges; in shape it resembles the obsidian knives of
+the ancient Aztecks, or, perhaps, of the Tultecks, of which we found a
+great many near the Mexican city of Chalco, and of which there are
+engravings in one of the last numbers of 'Silliman's Journal.' We have
+compared several specimens of flint and obsidian knives, and found
+them as perfectly alike as if they had been made by the same artist,
+and as the difference of the material allows. If we cannot decide how
+far this fact may serve to confirm the hieroglyphic accounts of the
+emigration of the Aztecks and Tultecks from north to south, it seems,
+however, to strengthen the conjecture that the remote ancestors of the
+present Mexicans erected the tumuli and walls which are spread in such
+numbers over this country, and of the origin of which the present race
+of red men have no tradition." These obsidian knives are likewise
+represented in one of the early volumes of the French Academy, but
+Warden does not mention them in his "Antiquit�s Mexicaines." He puts
+the question, whether the people of the Ohio Valley may not have been
+a colony of the ancient inhabitants of Palenque? The old tumuli of
+Harmony appear, at least, to belong to a kindred race. On this obscure
+but highly interesting subject, see Alex. V. Humboldt, "Voy. au Nouv.
+Cont." t. iii. p. 155, &c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[92] This must have been a wandering band either of Sauk and Foxes
+(the latter of whom often were entitled "Musquake") or of Mascoutin.
+The Indian title to this region had been extinguished in 1804; see
+note 92, _post_. Possibly they were Potawatomi, several of whose
+chiefs bore names resembling these.
+
+An account of the battle of Tippecanoe is given in Evans's _Tour_, in
+our volume viii, p. 286, note 131.--ED.
+
+[93] Some of the southern tribes of the North American Indians still
+use such wooden pipes. I have seen such belonging to the Cherokees,
+which were in the shape of a bear. The opening for the tobacco was on
+the back, and the tube fixed near the tail.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[94] For the Kickapoo and Mascoutin (Masquiton) Indians, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 139, note 111; for the Potawatomi
+(Potanons), _ibid._, p. 115, note 84. The Piankeshaw and Miami are
+respectively noted in our volume i, p. 142, note 115; p. 27, note 24.
+The Wyandot (Viandots) were the Huron; see our volume i, p. 29, note
+26.
+
+Two treaties--the first with the Delawares, signed August 18, 1804;
+the second with the Piankeshaw, August 27, 1804--were concluded by
+William Henry Harrison at Vincennes. By these treaties all the
+southwestern portion of Indiana below the Vincennes tract already
+ceded, became the property of the United States. See W. H. Smith,
+_History of Indiana_ (Indianapolis, 1897), pp. 230-233.--ED.
+
+[95] Bloomington, the seat of Monroe County, Indiana, was laid out by
+Benjamin Park, July 12, 1818.
+
+By the two acts of March 26, 1804, and April 16, 1816, Congress
+granted two townships of land, subsequently located in Gibson and
+Monroe counties "for the use of a seminary of learning." The
+territorial legislature on November 9, 1806, established in the
+borough of Vincennes "an university to be known by the name and style
+of the Vincennes University." The attempt proved a failure, and the
+land was transferred to the Indiana Seminary created on January 20,
+1820. The latter was, on January 24, 1828, raised to the dignity of
+Indiana College, and on February 15, 1838, to Indiana University.--ED.
+
+[96] The other taxes were at this time the following:--1. Poll-tax,
+thirty-seven and a half cents per head, per annum. 2. Land-tax,
+according to the quality of the land; in Illinois, one and a half
+cents per acre on land of the best quality. 3. Watch-tax, twenty-five
+cents on a silver watch, and half a dollar on a gold watch. 4.
+Horse-tax, thirty-five cents on every horse above three years old.
+Twenty-five cents on every pair of draught oxen. This was the case in
+Indiana; in Illinois, a tax of half a dollar, on the value of 100
+dollars for every head of cattle above three years old. All grocers
+who sell sugar, coffee, and spirituous liquors, pay a tax in Indiana,
+as well as publicans. The landlord of the inn at which we lodged, paid
+a tax of ten dollars per annum. All these taxes are levied by the
+Government of the State, and are liable to be changed.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[97] See p. 175, for illustration of neck-yoke and plow.--ED.
+
+[98] In the splendid work, "Genus Pinus," by my lamented friend, A. B.
+Lambert, Esq., Vice-President of the Linnean Society, lately deceased,
+there is a plate and an interesting account of this tree. Mr. Lambert
+states that "it was introduced into England by Lord Bagot, from seeds
+received from the celebrated naturalist, Mr. Correa de Serra, then
+ambassador of Portugal to the United States. Lord Bagot has two fine
+trees in his conservatory, and was so good as to give me plants of it,
+which are now growing in my conservatory at Boyton."--H. EVANS LLOYD.
+
+[99] Fox River, a bayou of the Big Wabash River, in the eastern
+portion of Philip Township, White County, Illinois, cuts off about six
+miles of territory, known as Fox Island.--ED.
+
+[100] See Bodmer's view of this junction, Plate 38, in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[101] See Evans's _Pedestrious Tour_, in our volume viii, p. 192, note
+45.--ED.
+
+[102] This _Nymph�a_ had, in January, thrown out short pedunculi, near
+to its tuberculous root, at some depth below the water, from which
+thick, round, yellow flower-buds had sprouted. The arrow-shaped leaves
+were green, but, at this time, at a great depth under water.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[103] The parroquet (or parrakeet), a diminution of the Spanish
+_perico_, meaning parrot, is the term applied to many small varieties
+of parrots, especially to the long-tailed East Indian and Australian
+species of the genus _Pal�orius_. At the opening of the nineteenth
+century they were quite numerous in the southern portion of the United
+States; but they have now disappeared, save in the wilder portions of
+Indian Territory and Florida. See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv,
+p. 161, note 108.--ED.
+
+[104] See Plate 38, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+JOURNEY FROM NEW HARMONY TO ST. LOUIS ON THE MISSISSIPPI, AND OUR STAY
+THERE, FROM MARCH 16TH TO APRIL 9TH, 1833
+
+   Mount Vernon--Mouth of the Wabash--Shawneetown--Battery
+   Rock--Cave-in-Rock--Cumberland River--Tenessee River--Mouth of
+   the Ohio--Cape Girardeau--Grand Tower--St. Genevieve--Merrimack
+   River--Vide Poche--Kahokia--St. Louis--Sac and Fox
+   Indians--Meeting of the Black Hawk with his Countrymen at
+   Jefferson Barracks--The American Fur Company--Preparations for
+   the Journey up the Missouri.
+
+
+After taking leave of our friends at Harmony, who, during a residence
+of four months, had given us unvarying proofs of kindness and
+hospitality, we set out on horseback early in the morning of the 16th
+of March, leaving our baggage to be conveyed by the Ohio. The day was
+fine, and, rejoicing in the warm spring sun, we reached the hills that
+bounded the valley of the Wabash. We were immediately surrounded by
+lofty forests, and cast a farewell look on the cheerful country which
+had so long sheltered us. Perched on the top of the maple, oak, and
+tulip tree, the robin poured forth his morning song. The turtle-dove
+was cooing with her sweet low moan, and the shrill voice and hammering
+of the woodpeckers resounded on every side. In Europe the soft note of
+the turtle is not heard till spring is more advanced, and the trees
+are clothed with verdure. Many trees were covered with buds; those of
+the dog-wood were particularly forward, the beautiful white flowers of
+which appear before the leaves; this is the case with many of the
+trees of this country. We passed Rush Creek, on the eminences near
+which grow many sugar-maple trees, the juice of which was tapped, and
+had in some of them already ceased to flow. At the lower part of all
+the trunks, we found small tubes of elder inserted, from which the
+insipid sweetish juice ran into the troughs placed below them. It is
+said to flow in great abundance, when hot spring days are succeeded by
+cold frosty nights. We soon reached what is called a sugar camp in the
+forest; it is a hut, in the floor of which four kettles are fixed for
+boiling the juice. This [pg. 94] hut contains likewise large troughs, in
+which the juice from the smaller, placed at the trees, is collected.
+Such a hut, with the maples growing around it, is called a sugar camp,
+and the quantity of sugar produced depends on the number of maples in
+the vicinity. Many camps furnish in one spring 300, 500, or even 1000
+lbs. of sugar, which is crystallized in loaves. It is brown, but very
+sweet, and has no disagreeable flavour. We refreshed ourselves with
+the juice in the small troughs, which our horses drank greedily.
+
+The people in the isolated dwellings in the forest were partly engaged
+in burning the timber. Many of the small wooden houses of these
+peasants were without windows; glass windows are quite a luxury, and
+the only light enjoyed in the daytime is admitted by the open door. We
+saw in all these dwellings, very wide, large beds. We crossed the Big
+Creek, a considerable stream, with rising banks, by a wooden bridge;
+here we saw many piles of oak bark, which is sold to the tanneries. At
+noon, the weather being excessively hot, we reached Mount Vernon, on
+the Ohio.
+
+In this little scattered place, with about 600 inhabitants, among whom
+there are five medical men, about one third of the buildings are of
+brick; the town-hall stands in an open square. The Ohio, which we
+immediately visited, had now a much more striking appearance than at
+our first visit in the autumn. It is considerably broader than the
+Rhine, and it is said that it often rises thirty feet higher--up to
+the very thresholds of the buildings standing on the bank. The view
+both up and down the river was beautiful. The immediate environs of
+Mount Vernon consist of damp marshy forests; hence the water is very
+bad, and the inhabitants prefer even that of the Ohio. The temperature
+at noon was now very warm; 14� Reaumur.
+
+We were obliged to wait a couple of days in this little town for a
+steam-boat, to go down the river. The rushing noise of the steamers
+often called us to the river, but they were mostly going up, and
+disappeared at Diamond Island. At last, on the 18th of March, about
+ten in the morning, two steam-boats appeared, of which the largest,
+the Napoleon, did not stop; while the smaller one, the Conveyance,
+took us in.[105] We proceeded rapidly, reached before noon Wabash
+Island, near the mouth of that river, and after dinner landed at
+Shawneetown.
+
+Shawneetown or Shawaneetown is a hamlet lying along the banks of the
+river, and containing from 600 to 700 inhabitants. The best buildings
+are some inns, shops, and the post-office. The tribe of the Shawnee
+Indians formerly dwelt in this country, and were succeeded by some
+Delawares, who have been long since expelled or extirpated.
+Arrow-heads of flint, as well as the bones, &c., of these people, are
+frequently found in the neighbourhood. The Shawnees were said to have
+previously dwelt on the Savaney River, on the coast of Florida, and
+afterwards lived for about sixty-five years in the state of Ohio. They
+consisted, according to Dr. Morse, of four tribes:--1. The Piqua; 2.
+The Maguachake; 3. The Kiskopokoke, to which the celebrated prophet,
+Elsquataway, and his distinguished brother, Tecumseh, belonged. They
+were very warlike. In [pg. 95] 1806 they settled near Greenville, in the
+State of Ohio, and their subsequent history is well known. They
+afterwards went to the country about Tippecanoe. 4. The Chillicothes,
+who live in the vicinity of the town of that name; these, and further
+accounts of these people, are to be found in Dr. Morse, and other
+writers.[106]
+
+Twelve miles inland from Shawneetown are the celebrated salt works on
+Saline River,[107] near Equality; much salt is annually manufactured
+there, and sent to Shawneetown, on the Ohio, where it is embarked.
+Here, as at Mount Vernon, the environs of the place consist of damp
+forests, with many marshes, from which noxious exhalations arise. The
+weather was chilly, windy, and rainy, especially towards evening, so
+that a fire was very welcome. Coals are found about seven miles from
+the town, and seem to be of a good kind. There were many negroes in
+Shawneetown; whereas, in Harmony and Mount Vernon, there were only two
+or three families of that race.
+
+On the morning of the 19th, the weather being warm, and the sky
+clouded, we embarked in the Paragon steamboat.[108] The fine broad
+river shone brightly; on the banks the summits of the forest formed an
+even line parallel to the shore, as even as if they had been cut, the
+snow-white stems of the planes glistening among the sombre mass. The
+kingfisher, the wild duck, and red-breasted goose, were numerous in
+the wild, romantic willow islands. The banks of the Ohio now began to
+be higher; the rocks are of limestone, which forms, in many parts of
+the forests, romantic masses of rock, partly yellow, partly of a grey
+colour. The river was at this time nearly of the same colour as the
+Rhine, when clear. After passing the mouth of the Saline River, we
+reached, on the right, or Illinois bank, the long flat bank of rocks
+known by the name of Battery Rock.[109] This wall of rock, at the
+lower part of the bank, is marked with horizontal strata, or stripes,
+from sixty to eighty feet high, covered with whitish or bluish green
+and bright green lichens and mosses, rent by several ravines, and
+crowned with woods, and a small house or cottage on the very summit.
+From this place we saw, on the rocky banks, some red cedars here and
+there, from twenty to thirty feet in height. I observe, for the
+botanist, that this tree is not found except where the bank consists
+of rocks. After passing Cave-in-Rock Island, a long, wooded island, we
+glided past Cave-in-Rock,[110] a cavern which traverses from side to
+side a steep rock in Illinois, and has been drawn by Lesueur. The
+rocky wall, in which this well-known opening is situated, is marked
+with regular, narrow, yellowish grey or reddish strata of limestone,
+and is crowned with cedars and other trees. It is twenty-five miles
+below Shawneetown. Calcareous petrifactions, or rather impressions,
+are very numerous. Above the larger mouth of the cavern, towards the
+Ohio, is a smaller chamber, which is said to have formerly been the
+retreat of banditti and coiners. The rock is hard limestone, with sea
+shells and animal remains scattered in it, but no fossil bones have
+ever been found there.
+
+Towards noon we reached Golconda Island, twenty and a half miles from
+Cave-in-Rock, [pg. 96] and then Golconda in Illinois, a small town, with
+a few white buildings, in which they were erecting a court-house, and
+which is the seat of the tribunals of Pope County. Near Sister Islands
+we met the Brunswick steamer, which had in tow two large flat boats,
+full of horses, which were being conveyed from Mount Vernon to New
+Orleans. The owners of the horses have to pay above 500 dollars for
+the voyage. Opposite Cumberland Island is the mouth of the Cumberland
+River, which comes from Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio, at an acute
+angle. This river is not so large as the Wabash. A small village,
+called Smithland, is built at the mouth, which reminded me of a little
+Brazilian villa, the houses, mostly one story high, lying in a row by
+the water-side.[111]
+
+At this place the Paragon took in wood and provisions. Not far from
+Smithland is the mouth of the Tenessee River, which is said to be more
+considerable than the Cumberland, and to have a course of 1,200 miles.
+The little village, Paduca, on the left bank of the Ohio, appeared to
+have much traffic, and a number of new shops had been built. The
+Western Pilot of the year 1829 does not mention this place--a proof of
+its recent origin. From hence we came to the spot where Fort Massac
+formerly stood, stones of which are still found.[112] We lay to some
+hundred paces below to take in wood, of which our vessel consumed
+twelve cords daily. The grass on the banks was already of a bright
+green colour, and a race of large long-legged sheep were grazing on
+it. We lay to for the night.
+
+Early in the morning of the 20th of March we approached the mouth of
+the Ohio, where it falls into the Mississippi, 959 miles from
+Pittsburg, and 129� miles from St. Louis. The tongue of land on the
+right, which separates the two rivers, was, like the whole of the
+country, covered with rich woods, which were partly cleared, and a few
+houses erected, with an inn and store, and the dwelling of a planter,
+where we took in wood. In this store we saw, among heaps of skins,
+that of a black bear, lately killed, of which one of the three cubs, a
+very comical little beast, had been kept alive. This young bear had on
+his breast a semicircle of white hair. The settlement, at which we now
+were, has no other name than Mouth of the Ohio.[113] We now entered
+the Mississippi, and ascended it, keeping to the left or eastern bank.
+This river is not broader here than the Ohio, and the water of both
+was of the same colour; the bank was steep, covered with broken stems
+of trees, and crowned on the summit with high slender poplars. The
+lower banks were clothed with lofty trees, and at their feet strips
+of poplar and willows bending over the water. On the right hand, in
+particular, were romantic forest scenes; a wilderness of fallen trees,
+which the floods and storms had thrown and piled upon each other, like
+an _abatis_. Parasite plants wound round the trees, and matted them
+together; while, further on, rose the picturesque terraces of the
+wood-covered bank. There being many snags (trunks lying in the water)
+in the river, we could only proceed by daylight. The islands, covered
+with high poplars, were generally bordered with thickets of willow,
+which had now no appearance whatever of green, but looked of a bright
+yellowish red, from the colour of their branches. Gleams of sunshine
+[pg. 97] sometimes cast over these willow thickets a fine red glow, and
+gave them a very original appearance. Large quantities of drifted wood
+were frequently seen on the points of the islands towards the current.
+The water being very low, we were obliged to take soundings, and yet
+our vessel proceeded five or eight hours against the stream. The
+O'Connell steam-boat had run aground in this place, and its people
+were employed in landing the cargo, consisting chiefly of lead.[114]
+In many places on the bank, slender poplars form thick groves, whose
+tall stems spread into branches at the summit. They are all of an
+equal height, and are one of the characteristic features in the
+landscape scenery of the Mississippi and Missouri. At twelve at noon,
+Reaumur's thermometer was at +14��, with a high wind, which blew
+the sand of the sand banks into the air. We lay to, to take in fuel,
+which cost three dollars for two cords. Here was a high, steep, sandy
+bank, and a small, very wretched planter's log-house, exposed on all
+parts to the wind, the sides of which consisted only of boards set
+upright. A couple of bad beds took up almost the whole of the
+interior. The woman, with her pipe in her mouth, was occupied at the
+miserable fire-place; the man was just returned, with a boy, from the
+forest; the two other children looked unhealthy, weak and pale; one of
+these girls was employed in planting onions in a small patch of
+newly-prepared ground. A couple of oxen, five or six young hogs, and
+some Muscovy ducks, were feeding about the cottage. Immediately
+behind, and close to it, commenced the magnificent, dense, and lofty
+forest, which we resolved at once to explore, and there very sensibly
+felt the heat of the spring, because the wind could not penetrate. The
+underwood of the forest consisted of the spicewood (_Laurus benzoin_),
+which grows to the height of ten and fifteen feet; its bark is highly
+aromatic, and it was covered with small yellow blossoms, which appear
+before the leaves, and resemble those of our cornelian cherry. The
+abundance of these flowers gives to the underwood a lively tint, which
+strikes the eye at a distance. Large, lofty trees, overgrown with
+climbing plants, formed the forest on the Mississippi, and the ground
+was covered with a delicate yellow flowering plant (_Corydalis flava,
+N._) In the front of the cottage, which was close to the bank, stood a
+tree, about which a beautiful _Bignonia radicans_ entwined; and the
+turkey buzzards hovered high in the air above the forest.
+
+As we proceeded on our voyage, the wind was so high, and it raised the
+waves and the sand so excessively, that we sought the protection of
+the opposite bank. We passed many islands, several of which give a
+great insight into the formation of the banks of the Mississippi. One
+of them, especially, showed, at a certain place, a bank which had sunk
+down, where we perceived layers of large trunks of trees, heaped one
+upon another, the tops of which were visible. On such foundations the
+river throws its sand, willows and poplars grow up, by the leaves of
+which good earth is formed, and, in the end, lofty forests of hard
+wood arise. Though the Paragon drew only five feet of water, we were
+often aground; the wind laid the vessel a little on the side, the crew
+shoved with poles, sounded, stopped the engine, then made the vessel
+go backwards [pg. 98] and then sidewards, and so got afloat again.
+Little villages were seldom seen on this part of the banks of the
+Mississippi; however, we came to the village of Commerce,[115] on a
+rocky hill, and it is here that rows of hills of a very interesting
+appearance commence on the left or Missouri bank. Fragments of rock
+lie about, and the cedar (_Juniperus Virginiana_) immediately appears
+again. The forest seems to decrease in height in these calcareous
+rocks, especially the planes, which are more colossal in Indiana; and
+on the eminences in the forests, isolated groups of rocks are often
+seen, frequently of singular forms, like pulpits. Night setting in, we
+retired to our cabin to avoid the cold evening air, and lay to under
+cover of the bank. At this spot there was a single planter's dwelling
+upon the steep bank, which was fifty or sixty feet high. A large fire
+was kindled at the top, which brilliantly illuminated the high trunks
+of the forest, and warmed our crew by its intense heat. In the cleanly
+cottage of the peasant, which was well closed on all sides, we
+conversed with his wife, who told us that their house had been burnt
+down a short time before, and rebuilt; she said also that wild animals
+abound in this part of the country; stags especially are numerous, but
+bears are rarely met with.
+
+On the 21st of March we reached Cape Girardeau, an ancient French
+settlement, now a large scattered village, which, as we were told, had
+of late much improved. Beds of limestone appeared on the bank, and
+heaps of it were piled up; it contains many shells. After passing
+Devil's Island, we found in the river a sunk steam-boat, which was now
+quite broken up; many of these vessels passed us. The spicewood was
+everywhere in flower in the forests on the bank, and it is said that
+its appearance indicates a fine soil. The pretty narrow-leaved willow,
+on the contrary, was still covered with its last year's dry leaves. We
+passed by the villages of Bainbridge and Harrisburg, and then came to
+that part of the river which is called Hanging-Dog-Bend, where the
+Mississippi is wide and beautiful. Various strata and ravines are
+observed in the wooded calcareous mountains; such a stratified rock,
+cleft perpendicularly, has the name of Devil's Tea-table; other rocks
+resembled round towers standing close to each other, all crowned with
+wood, where the turkey buzzard resorted.[116] The opposite or Illinois
+bank has very seldom any such rocks, and it is more cultivated close
+to the river. Flocks of ducks, probably _Anas rufitorques_, were
+swimming on the water. The calcareous rocks, grey, bright yellow,
+bright blue, or yellowish red, were frequently very singularly formed,
+especially a little further up, the interesting Grand Tower, an
+isolated, cylindrical rock, from sixty to eighty feet in height, which
+we reached when it was splendidly illumined by the setting sun.[117]
+To the right, on the Illinois bank, opposite the Tower Rock, at the
+point or corner of the mountain projecting towards the Mississippi,
+three or four very strangely formed rocks are standing, full of
+clefts and ravines, the foremost of which is called the Devil's
+Bake-oven, and is covered at the summit with pines. The Grand
+Tower[118] stands [pg. 99] quite isolated on the left bank; and its
+summit is crowned with red cedars. Behind it there is another large
+rock, split into several perpendicular divisions, like towers, and the
+whole group forms, as it were, a most original portico. Some
+habitations were picturesquely situated against these rocks. A little
+above that narrow rocky portico of the river, the Obrazo Creek, in the
+State of Missouri, appears, where we took in fuel. The ravine of the
+stream was covered with fine tall timber, to which the kingfisher
+resorted. A couple of cottages were inhabited by negroes, and in front
+of them lay a piece of fertile land, where rows of cotton trees were
+planted. The high old elms were now in flower by the side of the
+stream, and the large red cedars, around the dwellings, were still
+partly laden with their black berries. The _Mnium ciliare_ (Grev.;
+Bryum) was abundant in this neighbourhood. Above Hat Island, we lay to
+for the night on the Missouri bank.
+
+The morning of the 22nd of March was serene; the sight of the rising
+sun from the poop of the vessel was truly magnificent; as the flaming
+disk of the king of day rose above the woody banks of the Mississippi,
+the waves formed by the rapid course of the vessel glowed with the
+most resplendent colours; the wild geese and ducks, frightened by our
+Paragon, hastened away with rustling wings; the kingfisher was
+frequent on the shrubs. Near St. Mary River we ran aground, but were
+not long delayed by this accident. The cords of wood for the
+steam-boat were lying ready piled up on the bank, stating the price
+and the quantity. The village of Chester, in Illinois, where we took
+in wood, was quite a new settlement, consisting at present of but a
+few houses. Among the limestone and wood on the bank, we shot a
+beautiful lizard (_Agama undulata_, Daud.), which is said to attain a
+considerable size, especially on the river St. Peter. The buds of the
+red oak were very forward. At noon the weather was excessively warm,
+and on the river the thermometer was +11�� Reaumur. We saw the
+mouth of the Kaskaskia River, on the Illinois bank, six miles up which
+Kaskaskia is situated, one of the oldest French settlements on the
+Mississippi.[119] The tribe of Kaskaskian Indians dwelt in these
+parts, and some remains of them still live near the settlement. We
+were told that there was at present only one man among them of the
+pure race. A wooded chain of hills runs along the Kaskaskia, in which
+large columns of smoke were rising, doubtless occasioned by the woods
+being on fire. Numbers of tortoises were basking at noon on the trunks
+of trees and stones in the river. They have hard shells, and most of
+them are not large; though we often shot at them, we did not succeed
+in getting a single one. Wild geese were walking upon the sand-banks;
+we fired at them; the first shot did not in the smallest degree
+discompose them; at the second, when the ball whizzed close by them,
+they flew away, but only to a short distance. At St. Genevi�ve Island,
+the river divides, and we steered to the west of the island. It is
+covered with lofty trees; the banks are abruptly broken; large trunks
+[pg. 100] of trees were lying in the water. Before us we saw St.
+Genevi�ve,[120] where columns of smoke ascended in the distance; on
+the island was a small settlement, with a hut, worse than that of an
+Indian, and near, the canoe, turned bottom upwards. The inhabitants
+were sunburnt, badly clothed, of a savage aspect, like the Indians. A
+tall forest surrounded this characteristic scene. The Mississippi is
+here very broad, and is certainly a very noble stream. The prospect up
+the river is highly picturesque. Gentle eminences bound the horizon,
+and on account of a bend which the river makes to the right, it
+appears to come through a narrow opening. St. Genevi�ve, an old French
+settlement, now a large village, with 600 or 800 inhabitants, is about
+twenty minutes' walk from the landing-place, and appears to be in a
+state of decline; it was founded at the same time as Kaskaskia. The
+streets are at right angles, unpaved, and bordered with hedges. The
+houses, which are of one story, are separate from each other, and
+have, in general, a verandah in front. The church is built of red
+brick. French and English are spoken, and there are several German
+inhabitants. Caravans go every spring from hence to the interior of
+the western prairies, to Sante F� and the Rocky Mountains; they
+consist of many armed men, with their horses and wagons. The
+well-known lead mines are further up the country.[121] Limestone
+everywhere stands out: the water is very bad, and not fit for
+drinking.
+
+On the morning of the 23rd of March, the sun shining very brightly,
+strange forms of rock, alternating with high forests, appeared on the
+banks of the river; on the left, or western bank especially, the walls
+of rock were cleft by rude valleys, from which a small stream
+generally issued. Single pines are scattered in the woods; on the
+right bank, on the skirts of the forest, is a row of poplars, of
+perfectly equal height, but the planes are not so high as those we
+have before seen. We passed the place where Fort Ch�rtres formerly
+stood.[122] The limestone rocks in these parts assume the most highly
+original shapes and formations, about which much might be said if our
+limits would permit. They have often natural caverns and excavations,
+like the niches cut for the images of saints, which we see in
+Europe.[123] Others have regular [pg. 101] projecting ledges and lofty
+cones; sometimes they are so rounded as to represent a row of
+perpendicular towers, &c. On many of the rocks shot towers have been
+erected, the whole country, as is well known, abounding in lead.
+
+  [Illustration: Formations of limestone rocks]
+
+We passed by the settlement of Selma, and the village of
+Herculaneum;[124] the latter consisting of about thirty houses, the
+immediate vicinity of which is remarkable for a perforated limestone
+rock. The distance from hence to Genevi�ve is twenty-one miles, and to
+St. Louis, thirty. After passing round the point of Little Rock, which
+is about forty feet high--beyond which the small Platteen Creek falls
+into the river--we soon reached the mouth of the Merrimack River,
+where we saw large flocks of ducks and sea-gulls.[125] About Robert's
+Island the country becomes flat and uninteresting. Towards evening we
+reached Jefferson barracks, on the left bank, where the 6th
+regiment of regular infantry was in garrison, and the flag of the
+United States was hoisted. These barracks were interesting at this
+time, because the celebrated Indian chief, Black Hawk, was imprisoned
+in them. Before night, we passed the French settlement of Vide-Poche,
+or Carondelet, founded about 100 years ago, a large scattered village,
+the inhabitants of which are reported to be not very industrious. The
+neighbouring hills are covered with low oak bushes. We passed the
+night nearly opposite Kahokia, and on the morning of the 24th of
+March, to our great joy, beheld the town of St. Louis.[126] Its first
+appearance is not prepossessing, as it has no high steeples. The mass
+of houses, however, unfolds itself as you approach; the environs are
+low and monotonous. We landed about nine o'clock in the morning, in a
+cold high wind. The people whom we first saw were mostly negroes, or
+labourers.
+
+St. Louis is a rapidly increasing town, with 6,000 or 8,000
+inhabitants, on the western bank of the Mississippi, about 1,200 miles
+from New Orleans, and 1,134 miles from Pittsburg. It is built on a
+rather bare, gently rising, and not very elevated part of the banks;
+forms two streets parallel to the river, besides many houses lying on
+the summit in the prairie, where building seemed to be proceeding
+rapidly. On this upper part there are churches and other considerable
+buildings, of which the town has many of different kinds; and the
+highly favourable situation, in the centre of the trade of the
+Mississippi, Ohio, and Missouri, will soon make it one of the most
+important places in the west. St. Louis was originally founded by the
+French; at first there was only a fort, and it was not till 1764 that
+the building of the town commenced, which in 1816 contained about
+2,000 inhabitants. Persons were still living--for instance, M.
+Chouteau--who had the wood felled on the spot where the buildings of
+the town now stand.[127] The principal streets are full of handsome
+shops; numerous steam-boats come and go, daily, to and from New
+Orleans, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, Prairie du Chien, &c.; and
+a very brisk trade employs the motley population of many nations. Most
+of the merchants have their warehouses, which are mostly built of
+solid stone, on the bank of the Mississippi. The greater part of the
+workmen in the port, and all the servants in St. Louis, are negroes,
+and their descendants, who, as in the State [pg. 102] of Missouri, are
+all slaves. They are very numerous here; and though modern travellers
+represent in very favourable colours the situation of this oppressed
+race, the negro slaves are no better off here than in other countries.
+Everywhere they are a demoralized race, little to be depended upon;
+and the manner in which they are treated is generally not so good as
+has been represented. We were witnesses of deplorable punishments of
+these people. One of our neighbours at St. Louis, for instance,
+flogged one of his slaves in the public streets, with untiring arm.
+Sometimes he stopped a moment to rest, and then began anew.
+
+St. Louis was the more interesting to us, at this moment, because we
+had, here, the first opportunity of becoming acquainted with the
+North American Indians in all their originality; for the office for
+all the Indian affairs of the west is at St. Louis, under the
+direction of General Clarke, celebrated for his journey with Captain
+Lewis to the Rocky Mountains and Columbia River, who has the title of
+superintendent of Indian affairs.[128] He manages all these matters;
+and all strangers who wish to visit the interior of the western
+territory are obliged to have a passport from him, and all Indian
+agents and sub-agents are under him. It happened that, during our stay
+at St. Louis, a deputation came down the Mississippi from two Indian
+tribes, the Saukies (Sacs) and the Foxes or Outagamis, to intercede
+for the Black Hawk, who was a prisoner in Jefferson barracks.[129] A
+Saukie chief, named Kiokuck, was at the head of this numerous
+deputation, and he was the very same person who had delivered the
+unfortunate Black Hawk into the hands of the Americans.[130] General
+Clarke, to whom I was introduced by the kindness of Duke Bernhard of
+Saxe Weimar, had very obligingly informed me of the meetings or
+councils which he held with the Indians, and we had the pleasure of
+being able thoroughly to observe and study these remarkable people.
+Quarters were assigned them in a large magazine near the harbour, to
+which we immediately repaired. We saw already on the beach a
+collection of the populace, and amidst the crowd of curious
+spectators, distinguished the strange dark brown figures, enveloped in
+red, white, or green blankets. We did not come up to them till they
+were in the house, and the first sight of them, which did not a little
+surprise me, convinced me at once of their great affinity to the
+Brazilians, so that I cannot hesitate to consider them as belonging to
+the same race.[131] They are stout, well formed men, many of them
+above the middle size, broad shouldered, muscular and brawny. The
+features of the men are expressive, and strongly marked; the cheek
+bones prominent, the lower jaw broad and angular; the dark brown eyes
+animated and fiery, and especially in youth, the inner corner rather
+drawn down, but not so much so as in the Brazilians. The outer corner
+of the eye is not elevated either in the North or South Americans, at
+least I have seen it [pg. 103] in very few instances. The forehead
+appears to me not to recede so much in the North Americans as has
+been generally assumed, which is also the case with the Brazilians.
+Meyen[132] confirms this with respect to the people west of the
+Cordilleras. The teeth are strong, firm, and white, and generally
+perfectly sound, even at an advanced age. The nose is large and
+prominent, often much arched, but not always, a trait which occurs
+much more rarely among the Brazilians.[133] The lips are usually
+rather thick; the hair straight, smooth, and black, as in all the
+Americans. The colour of the skin a darker or lighter brown, often
+deeper than in the Brazilians, but, on the whole, perfectly the same.
+Some of these Indians resemble the Chinese, which Bossu, too, affirms
+of the now extirpated race of the Natchez. The features of others
+strongly reminded me of the Botocudos.[134]
+
+It may be observed here, with Von Humboldt and Meyen,[135] that,
+notwithstanding a certain general affinity and resemblance of the
+race, there are, however, very great diversities among the people of
+American descent. Thus, for instance, the large aquiline nose of
+several northern nations may be mentioned, which must have been very
+remarkable among the ancient tribes of Mexico, as is proved by the old
+monuments of that, historically, most interesting country. Though this
+similarity appears to indicate an affinity of the Mexicans with more
+northern nations, a similar conformation was found here and there in
+South America also; as Duperrey[136] represents the Peruvians, and as
+Dr. Meyen also states. I am, however, of opinion that the notion of
+the last-named learned travellers is untenable, _viz._, that on
+account of the different[137] form of their skulls, the Puris and the
+Botocudos, who live so near to each other, are distinct races. I have
+compared numbers of Mandan skulls with each other, which were all
+genuine, and found great diversity in them, especially with respect to
+the receding of the forehead and the flattening of the head. In the
+same manner the brown colour of the American is of different shades.
+Mr. Von Humboldt found the Mexicans darker than many South
+Americans;[138] and many of the North American nations which I have
+seen, were likewise of a darker complexion than many Brazilians. My
+observations with respect to this point coincide so perfectly with the
+views of that distinguished traveller, that I might copy the passages
+in his works which treat of the Americans, and confirm them by many
+additional proofs. Among the Botocudos I met with individuals who were
+nearly white; Volney was certainly deceived by Michichinakua (the
+little tortoise), who wanted to raise himself to the dignity of a
+white man, for the North Americans are not of a lighter colour on
+[pg. 104] those parts of their bodies which are clothed, than on those
+which are exposed to the air and sun. Pike, and some other
+travellers, pretend to have found the Mongol physiognomy among the
+North American Indians, especially the Pawnees and the Sioux;[139] but
+I can affirm that I met with no such physiognomy, though I saw a few
+instances of it in Brazil. Mr. Von Humboldt very justly observes, on
+this head, that not merely the bodily conformation, but likewise the
+mode of living, of the two races, are entirely different. The great
+contrast between the American and Mongol races is immediately
+apparent, when we consider that the former have no breed of cattle,
+and do not subsist on milk, without which the latter cannot live.[140]
+The Tartar features, which are very handsome, did not occur to me in
+North America. Warden, in his work on American antiquities,[141] gives
+a drawing of a vessel found near the river Cany, which is adorned with
+three human heads. These heads have not the Tartar physiognomy, as the
+author believes, but precisely that of the North American Indians.
+
+From this digression on the general conformation of the North
+Americans, we return to our narrative.
+
+The Saukies and Foxes had shaved their hair off the whole head except
+a small tuft behind, the greater part of which was cut short, like a
+brush, and which terminated in a thin braid, to which was fastened the
+chief ornament of the head, the deer's tail, which is a tuft of hair
+from the tail of the Virginian stag, white, with some black hair, the
+white part being dyed red with vermilion.[142] It is fastened in an
+ingenious manner, with some strings and pegs of wood, to the tuft of
+hair at the back of the head; and in the middle of it, concealed
+between the hair, is a small piece of carved wood, to which a small
+bone box is affixed, into which a large eagle's feather is fastened,
+projecting horizontally behind; this feather is often dyed with
+vermilion, and is the characteristic distinction of a brave warrior.
+He who has become renowned for horse-stealing, which, according to
+their notions, is a heroic exploit, fastens to the tip of this feather
+the rattle of a rattlesnake. The whole deer's tail, when it is not
+worn, is rolled up in the form of a thick ball, fastened with leather
+straps, and kept in this manner, that the hair may remain smooth, and
+in the proper position. Mr. Bodmer took an admirable likeness of
+Watapinat (eagle's nest), a handsome Fox Indian, wearing this
+head-dress.[143] The North Americans pluck out their eyebrows, beard,
+&c., like the Brazilians, and, at present, employ in this operation a
+spiral wire, between the windings of which they take hold of the hair.
+These nations adorn their ears in a very original manner; three large
+holes, one above the other, are made at the outer rim, in which short
+strings of blue and white wampum shells[144] are hung, like tassels.
+Some of the men had even cut through [pg. 105] the whole outer rim,
+which remained attached only above and below, and was adorned with
+strings of wampum and metal rings; similar strings, and pieces of blue
+and white shells, are worn in many rows around the neck.
+
+The women are small and thickset; most of them have large round heads,
+and broad, flat, round faces. They let their hair grow naturally, part
+it on the forehead, and tie it together, at the back of the head, in a
+short, thick bunch, which is bound round with red and green ribbon. A
+few old men had not shaved their heads; but in winter it is said that
+these Indians let their hair grow, to protect them against the cold.
+Both sexes had their faces more or less painted red: the Saukies
+mostly red, in different designs; the Foxes, red and yellow, or red,
+white, and black. The manner of painting depends on the taste of the
+individual; nearly all of them had red circles round the eyes and
+ears, and red stripes down the cheeks, the rest of the face being left
+of the natural colour. They use, for this purpose, vermilion, which
+they obtain from the merchants. The Fox Indians had often the whole
+head painted red; a yellow or white stripe on the forehead, and the
+mouth and chin with the figure of a yellow hand, or else quite black.
+A tall, handsome Saukie Indian, called Massica (the tortoise), had a
+bold, fierce countenance, and an aquiline nose; his cordiality was
+very striking; his brown eyes sparkled, and his white teeth looked
+quite dazzling, contrasted with the dark brown face, which had a good
+deal of red paint on it. On his forehead he wore a band of otter skin,
+which was fastened behind the head, and then fell down in two long
+stripes to the ground. He had attached a black and white eagle's
+feather to his deer's tail, and was covered with a large red blanket.
+Mr. Bodmer has given a very good likeness of this handsome man in
+Plate 36, but without his head-dress, in order to show the manner in
+which the tuft of hair was cut. Many of these people wore coloured
+calico shirts, and all used the Indian leather leggins, which come
+down to the shoes, and are ornamented at the ankles with leather
+fringes. They are fastened, with leather straps, above the girdle.
+They also wear a piece of woollen cloth, generally striped blue and
+white, round the waist, which is fastened under the girdle. The
+girdle and knee bands were often very elegantly adorned with glass
+beads, and in the former is a sheath, similarly ornamented, for a
+large, broad, and very sharp knife, which they obtain, by barter, from
+the merchants, and employ for various purposes, especially for cutting
+up game, and scalping their enemies. The shoes, generally called
+mocassins, are made of soft, tanned buckskin, and the upper edge
+turned down below the ankle. These people wear them very plain,
+without any ornament. Many of them had fastened swan skins, with the
+down, or that of polecats, much marked with white, below their knees,
+the long hairy tail of which hung down to the ground, or to the ankle.
+Most of them had no other covering, on the upper part of the body,
+under their blankets; and [pg. 106] many wore brass necklaces and
+bracelets. The men, who were between thirty and forty in number, never
+appeared without their arms; they carried tomahawks,[145] or else the
+common Indian club,[146] which has, at the upper end, a steel plate,
+sharp on both edges, and pointed.[147] We did not see any bows and
+arrows among these Indians, because they had not come out on a warlike
+expedition, but on a festal visit; many of them had a kind of lance,
+made of a long sword blade, fastened to a pole, which was covered with
+red cloth, and ornamented with many black raven's or eagle's feathers,
+hanging down either in a long row, or in long bunches.[148] These
+weapons they had always in their hand, and never laid them aside. The
+women, like those of Brazil, carried their bundles on their backs,
+with a leather strap passing over the forehead; they had their
+children with them, some of whom were in very convenient cradles. They
+all had very neat bast mats, ornamented with black figures, on which
+they slept, and some had, likewise, bear skins. Their travelling
+sacks, or bags, in which they had all their effects, were of the same
+material.
+
+The chief or leader of the Indians assembled here, was the Saukie
+chief, Kiokuck, a slender man, of the middle size, with agreeable
+features, not very different from those of an European, though of a
+darker colour. He wore a coloured calico shirt, and, on his breast, a
+large medal, which he had received from the President of the United
+States; and likewise wore a figured handkerchief round his head, and
+was wrapped in a green blanket. He carried in his hand a calumet,
+ornamented with feathers. His face was not painted, his ears not
+disfigured, and it was affirmed that he was not of pure Indian origin.
+He wore brass rings round his neck and wrists.
+
+The dwelling-place of these Indians is on the western banks of the
+Mississippi, about Rock River and Rock Island, where the agent
+appointed for them by the government resides. In 1805 they sold, to
+the United States, their territory on the east of the Mississippi;
+still claiming a large tract of land, which extends from the upper
+Jowa River, along the west bank of the Mississippi, down to the river
+Des Moines, and further back to the Missouri.[149] The Fox Indians
+call themselves Musquacki, or Mus-quack-ki-uck. They live sociably in
+villages, in permanent arched huts, and it is said that they can
+muster 1,600 warriors (according to Dr. Morse, however, only
+800),[150] and that they number about 5,000 souls. They plant maize,
+beans, gourds, &c. The men hunt, and work in their lead mines, which
+are very productive, so that, it is said, they have yielded 500,000
+lbs. in one season.[151] Their language has not a barbarous sound; it
+has some nasals and gutturals; the words are very frequently
+pronounced indistinctly, so that [pg. 107] it is often difficult to
+write them down; though, on the whole, less so than is the case with
+many other nations.
+
+The French and English find much more difficulty than the Germans, in
+pronouncing all the Indian languages of North America, with which I
+have become acquainted. It was highly interesting to us, to observe so
+many of these Indians together. They were by no means grave and still;
+on the contrary, they were very cheerful, and often laughed heartily.
+If one went up to them familiarly, and spoke to them, many of them had
+a very agreeable, friendly expression; others were cold, and appeared,
+to us, hostile. Several repeated, with pleasure, the words of their
+language, and were very willing to have their portraits drawn, for
+which they always required a present. At last they were so annoyed by
+the importunity of the motley crowd, that we could have no more
+intercourse with them. They sold many of their effects, for which they
+received money, which they soon disposed of, but always examined
+whether it was genuine or false. There were some grave, dignified men
+among them, who carefully observed what was passing around them. Of
+these, I especially noticed Watapinat and Massica.
+
+General Clarke invited us to a small assembly, which he was to hold in
+his house with the Indians. We accordingly repaired thither. This
+meeting took place in the apartments, which are ornamented with a
+highly interesting collection of arms and utensils, which the General
+had procured on his extensive travels with Captain Lewis.[152] The
+rooms contain, likewise, portraits of the most distinguished Indian
+chiefs of different nations. General Clarke, with his secretary, was
+seated opposite to the Indians, who sat in rows along the walls of the
+apartment. We strangers sat at the General's side, and near him stood
+the interpreter, a French Canadian. The Indians, about thirty in
+number, had done their best to ornament and paint themselves; they all
+looked very serious and solemn, and their chief sat at their right
+hand. The general first told them, through the interpreter, for what
+reason he had assembled them here, on which Kiokuck rose, with the
+calumet in his left hand, gesticulating with his right hand, in
+harmony with his thoughts; he spoke very loud, in broken sentences,
+interrupted by short pauses. His speech was immediately translated and
+written down. This conference lasted above half an hour. General
+Clarke had introduced us to the Indians, telling them that we had come
+far over the ocean to see them; they all testified their satisfaction
+in a rather drawling "Hah!" or "Ahah." Before and after the sitting
+all the Indians passed us in a line, each giving us his right hand,
+and looking steadfastly in our faces. They then withdrew, headed by
+their chiefs. The General had told them that they should persevere in
+their amicable sentiments as hitherto; and they had expressed the
+wish that their brethren might soon be set at liberty, because their
+wives and children at home were suffering hunger and distress. Upon
+this the General advised them, when Black Hawk and his associates
+should be set at liberty, to keep a watchful eye over them. On this
+condition he would intercede for the prisoners. We were invited by the
+General to accompany him, on the [pg. 108] following day, on board the
+Warrior[153] steam-boat, when he intended to convey the Indians to the
+barracks, to grant them an interview with Black Hawk.
+
+On the 26th of March we found the Indians already on board the
+Warrior, which was hired for this excursion; others of these original
+figures, wrapped in their red blankets, were walking on the beach. We
+had provided cigars and other trifles, by which we soon gained their
+confidence. Massica, the tall young Saukie Indian, was the most
+interesting among them. As soon as General Clarke came, the anchor was
+weighed, and the Warrior proceeded down the Mississippi. The Indians
+assembled on the fore part of the ship, to sing: the bleak wind was
+much felt by many of them, as they wore no covering under their
+blankets, yet they always remained on deck. Below, in the after hold
+of the vessel, they had a fire, at which they boiled and roasted the
+provisions that were given them. They examined, with much attention,
+the steam-engine, the hissing and roaring of which interested them
+extremely. They formed groups of different kinds; many were busy in
+improving the painting of their faces, at their small looking-glasses;
+others were smoking their pipes in philosophical ease; and others lay
+asleep on the floor, wrapped in their blankets. They very readily
+acquiesced, whenever we asked them to sing; their chorus-singing was
+remarkable; it rises and falls, now loud now low, often quavering,
+yet, on the whole, not inharmonious; and though it has some
+resemblance with that of the Botocudos, in Brazil, it was by no means
+so rude and savage. Sometimes they shouted aloud, and generally ended
+their song with their war-whoop--a shrill cry, in which they cause the
+voice to quaver, by holding the hand before the mouth.
+
+About ten o'clock the Warrior approached Jefferson barracks, where the
+inhabitants had assembled on the shore to see the Indian deputation
+land. The Indians sung a wild chorus, rattling their weapons, and, as
+soon as they had landed, marched in procession, led by their chiefs,
+to the heights, where the barracks formed a quadrangle, open to the
+river, enclosing a large space. General Clarke introduced us to
+General Atkinson, the commandant of the place;[154] and, after resting
+a short time in his house, we proceeded to a spacious empty hall in
+one of the adjoining buildings, where the Indians were already seated
+in rows. The Generals sat opposite to them, surrounded by the
+spectators, among whom were several ladies. When all were assembled,
+Kiokuck, with the aid of the interpreter, delivered an address to
+General Atkinson, who replied, on which the prisoners were introduced.
+First of all, Black Hawk appeared, a little old man, perhaps seventy
+years of age, with grey hair, and a light yellow complexion; a
+slightly curved nose, and Chinese features, to which the shaven head,
+with the usual tuft behind, not a little contributed.[155] None of
+the prisoners were painted. These poor men entered with downcast
+looks; and though no Indian betrayed any lively demonstrations of
+emotion, such feelings were very manifest in many of them. The
+prisoners gave their hands to their countrymen all round, and then sat
+down with them. Two of the Indians, known as particularly [pg. 109]
+dangerous men, one of them the celebrated Winnebago prophet, who has a
+repulsive countenance, had chains with large iron balls at their
+feet.[156] The other prisoners were not chained, and we were told that
+they were taken out every day to walk, by the guard. The speeches now
+recommenced: Kiokuck spoke often, and interceded for the prisoners;
+and General Atkinson repeated to them pretty nearly what General
+Clarke had already said, on which the Indians again uttered their
+"Hah," or "Ahah." When the speeches were ended, the company withdrew,
+and left the prisoners alone with their countrymen, to give free vent
+to their feelings. The sight of old Black Hawk, and the whole scene of
+the prisoners and their friends, was affecting, and many of the
+spectators appeared to participate in their feelings.
+
+We then examined the barracks, in which four companies of the 6th
+regiment were quartered. The hospital is a detached building; the
+surrounding country is open prairie; in the vicinity of the
+buildings, however, it is covered with a wood of slender oaks, without
+underwood, and from the eminence is a very agreeable prospect over the
+river. General Atkinson invited us to dinner, and introduced us to his
+family. At three o'clock we again embarked on the Warrior with all the
+Indians, and reached St. Louis late in the evening.
+
+As it was my intention to travel through the interior of the western
+part of North America, and, if possible, the Rocky Mountains, St.
+Louis was unquestionably the most proper basis for such an enterprise.
+The question was, whether it was more advisable to go by the caravans
+by land to Santa F�, or to proceed by water up the Missouri? Captain
+Stewart (of Grand Tully), an English traveller, with whom I had become
+acquainted at St. Louis, was on the point of setting out by land by
+the caravan, and it would have been agreeable to me to travel in his
+company;[157] but after I had consulted many persons well acquainted
+with the country, the plan of following the course of the Missouri
+seemed to be the most suitable for my purposes; for, first, I should
+not be able to observe any Indians on the land journey; for if you
+happen to meet with them, you must fight them, and, therefore, cannot
+become well acquainted with them; and, secondly, it is extremely
+difficult, nay impossible, to make considerable collections of natural
+history on such a journey. These reasons were decisive: I hoped,
+therefore, to obtain from the gentlemen of the American Fur Company, a
+passage up the Missouri in their steam-boat, the Yellow Stone, which
+was daily expected to return from New Orleans; and as soon as it had
+taken in a cargo, was to set out on its voyage up the Missouri.[158]
+It is necessary to prefix a few words respecting this American Fur
+Company. The first regular company of this kind in the United States
+was the Michilimakinack Fur Company, established in 1790. Its capital
+belonged chiefly to some persons in Canada; but as foreigners were not
+allowed to trade with the Indians in the United States, some citizens
+of the latter gave it the sanction of their names.[159] The last war
+with England dissolved the company, and during that time no trade was
+carried on with the Indians. About 1816, Mr. Astor, of New York, a
+countryman of ours, formed a fur company, under the name of [pg. 110]
+the American Fur Company.[160] His plan was well conceived, very
+extensive, and designed to carry on trade with all the Indian tribes.
+Mr. Astor's enterprises towards the Columbia River did not succeed,
+but in all other parts the fur trade prospered, and is carried on, up
+to the present time, with great success.[161] About the same time two
+other companies were formed at St. Louis--the Missouri Fur Company,
+and the French Company, which proposed to carry on the trade on that
+river. The first continued its operations for about five or six years,
+when it terminated, having met with many difficulties.[162] In 1822
+the Columbia Fur Company was established, and violent opposition and
+rivalry arose between the three companies, which continued till
+1826.[163] During this time the fur trade had afforded but little
+profit to any of the persons engaged in it. In the spring of that
+year, a person of the name of Crooks was sent from New York by the
+American Fur Company to buy up the two other companies, in which he
+succeeded.[164] Some of the members of these companies were received
+into the American Company, and thus the whole of the very extensive
+fur trade was concentrated in the hands of that company, and remains
+so up to this moment. Some individuals and small associations have
+since made frequent attempts to carry on the trade in the Indian
+territory and the Rocky Mountains,[165] but have always been obliged
+to give way to the powerful and wealthy company, which has now spread
+its commercial stations over a great part of the interior of North
+America, and continues to extend them more and more.[166]
+
+In British North America, two great fur companies were founded at an
+earlier period--the North-west, and the Hudson's Bay Company, which
+for a long time were at open war with each other, but afterwards
+joined, and still exist under the name of the Hudson's Bay
+Company.[167] To the north of the Missouri on the borders of British
+North America, they are rivals of the American Company, and both
+parties endeavour to draw over the Indians to their side. But as no
+white settlers have yet penetrated to those remote and desolate
+regions, the American Company rules _there_ alone, by its commercial
+stations and its numerous servants, the goods with which they carry on
+the trade having become necessary even to the most dangerous Indian
+tribes; for this reason foreign travellers cannot expect to succeed in
+their enterprises without the consent and assistance of this
+company.[168]
+
+At St. Louis I had become acquainted with several very interesting
+persons; Major Ofallon, having been formerly agent of the Indian
+nations on the Missouri, was well acquainted with the country, and
+assisted me with his advice, as well as Major Dougherty,[169] now
+agent for the nations of the Pawnees, Otos, and the Joways: they both
+advised me, as the only practicable means of visiting those countries
+with safety, to join the American Fur Company, and to obtain from the
+[pg. 111] directors a passage on board their steam-boat. Fully
+appreciating the value of this counsel, I endeavoured to become
+acquainted with Mr. Pierre Chouteau, who directed the affairs of the
+company at St. Louis, and with Mr. Mc Kenzie, who usually lived on the
+Upper Missouri, and was now on the point of proceeding on board the
+steamer to Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. Both
+gentlemen received me with great politeness, and readily acceded to my
+request.[170]
+
+Our necessaries for this journey,[171] and many small articles for
+bartering with the Indians, were procured and placed on board the
+Yellow Stone steamer. General Clarke favoured me with his advice, as
+well as several other gentlemen, particularly Major Pilcher,[172] who
+had penetrated far into the Indian territory to the Rocky Mountains,
+while he was a member of the Missouri Fur Company; likewise Messrs.
+Sanford and Bean, the former of whom was agent for the Crows, Mandans,
+Assiniboines, Manitaries and Blackfeet, and the latter for the Puncas
+and Sioux.[173] All these persons, who were well acquainted with the
+Indian territory, were to accompany us up the Missouri to their
+several stations. Major Ofallon, whom we visited at his pleasant
+country seat, near St. Louis, had the kindness to furnish me with the
+map of the course of the Missouri, by Lewis and Clarke, on a large
+scale.[174] We found at his house an interesting collection of Indian
+articles, and a great number of Indian scenes by Catlin, a painter
+from New York, who had travelled in 1831 to Fort Union.
+
+Before we left St. Louis, another deputation of Saukie Indians arrived
+from the Lower Missouri, who held councils with General Clarke. They
+came down the Missouri in long double canoes. Among them were several
+very strong, robust men, who, when they were in liquor, were
+dreadfully savage and wild. One of their most distinguished warriors,
+who was remarkable for a curved nose, exactly such as we see in the
+Mexican sculptures, suffered severely from consumption; his family
+seemed much concerned about him; the women sat around him and
+lamented. The time passed rapidly in observing these interesting
+people, till the 10th of April, which was the day fixed for our
+departure.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[105] The "Napoleon" (100 tons) was built at Pittsburg in 1831, and
+the "Conveyance" (90 tons) at Cincinnati in the same year.--ED.
+
+[106] For the Shawnee Indians and Shawneetown, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 138, note 108.
+
+The reference is to Dr. Jedidiah Morse (1761-1826), _Report to
+Secretary of War on Indian Affairs_ (New Haven, 1822), the result of a
+tour among the Western tribes in 1820.--ED.
+
+[107] Saline Creek (or River), formed by the union of the North and
+South Forks in Gallatin County, Illinois, flows southeast and enters
+the Ohio River about ten miles below Shawneetown. For a short
+statement on salt deposits, see James's _Long's Expedition_, in our
+volume xiv, p. 58, note 11.--ED.
+
+[108] The "Paragon" (90 tons) was constructed at Cincinnati in
+1829.--ED.
+
+[109] Battery Rock is twelve miles below Shawneetown.--ED.
+
+[110] See Plate 7, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. See also
+Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 273, note 180.--ED.
+
+[111] For Golconda consult Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 327, note 77. Sister's Island, a narrow strip a mile in length,
+lies twenty miles below Elizabethtown, Illinois. Smithland is the
+county seat of Livingston County, Kentucky, immediately below the
+mouth of the Cumberland.--ED.
+
+[112] Paducah, the seat of McCracken County, Kentucky, and forty-eight
+miles above Cairo, was laid out in 1827 and named from a well-known
+Indian chief. It is a large shipping place and in 1900 had a
+population of 12,797. It is the seat of Paducah University.
+
+The book here referred to is Samuel Cumings' _Western Pilot,
+containing Charts of the Ohio River and of the Mississippi from the
+Mouth of the Missouri to the Gulf of Mexico, accompanied with
+Directions for navigating the same, and a Gazetteer or Description of
+Towns on their Banks, Tributary Streams, etc., also a variety of
+Matter interesting to Travelers and all concerned in the Navigation of
+these Rivers_ (Cincinnati, 1828, 1829, 1834).
+
+For a brief sketch of Fort Massac, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our
+volume iii, p. 73, note 139.--ED.
+
+[113] Several fruitless attempts were made to establish a city at the
+confluence of the two rivers. Trinity, long time a rival of Cairo, was
+first settled in 1817 at Cache River. Shortly afterwards Shadrach
+Bond, John Comyges, and others entered a land claim for eighteen
+hundred acres between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers and incorporated
+it as the City and Bank of Cairo. At Comyges's death, however, the
+claim was allowed to lapse. In the same year William Bird occupied
+three hundred and sixty acres at the extreme point of the peninsula,
+and named his proposed city Bird's Point. A few houses were built; but
+during the War of Secession were removed to the Missouri side. In 1828
+John and Thompson Bird built the first houses on the present site of
+Cairo. Here boats were long accustomed to stop for supplies. In 1835,
+Sidney Breeze, Baker Gilbert, and others re-entered the forfeited land
+of the City and Bank of Cairo, and two years later obtained its
+incorporation as Cairo City and Canal Company. Speculation followed;
+the company purchased at a high price ten thousand acres, comprising
+all the territory between the Ohio, Mississippi, and Cache rivers,
+including Bird's Point. Plans for extensive improvements were made. D.
+B. Holbrook, one of the leading promoters, sold in Europe two million
+dollars in bonds. Sharp reverses followed and Cairo was not
+incorporated as a city until 1858.--ED.
+
+[114] The steamboat "O'Connell" was built at Pittsburg in 1833.--ED.
+
+[115] Commerce, on the Missouri side thirty miles above Cairo, was a
+trading post, as early as 1803. It was laid out in 1822, incorporated
+in 1857, and made the seat of Scott County in 1864. See Campbell,
+_Gazetteer of Missouri_ (St. Louis, 1875).--ED.
+
+[116] For the early history of Cape Girardeau, see A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 80, note 154. Devil's Island, less
+than three miles in length, is near the Illinois side four miles above
+Cape Girardeau. Bainbridge, Missouri, twelve miles above the town of
+Cape Girardeau, was on the road from Kentucky and Illinois to the
+White River and Arkansas. Hamburg (not Harrisburg), in Calhoun County,
+Illinois, is directly across the river from Bainbridge, and at the
+time of Maximilian's visit was a new landing. The Devil's Tea Table is
+on the Missouri side eighteen miles above Cape Girardeau. For more
+particulars concerning the places between St. Louis and the mouth of
+the Ohio, see Flagg's _Far West_, in our volume xxvi, pp. 50-83
+(original pagination), and footnotes to the same.--ED.
+
+[117] See Plate 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[118] It is well known that the whole tract contains shell limestone.
+Mr. Lesueur has made important collections of this kind on the Tower
+Rock at Vicksburg, Natchez, and other places on the banks of the
+Mississippi, of part of which he has made descriptions and drawings.
+He has accurately stated the several strata, with the shells of
+animals and fishbones occurring in them. The shells are very friable
+when taken out of the rock--afterwards, and especially if washed in
+water, they are firmer. Mr. Lesueur has sent large collections of
+these things to France.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[119] St. Mary's River rises in Perry County, Illinois, and enters the
+Mississippi six miles below the mouth of the Kaskaskia. Chester is the
+seat of Randolph County, seventy-six miles below St. Louis. Large
+quantities of bituminous coal and building stone are in the vicinity.
+For the early history of Kaskaskia, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our
+volume iii, p. 69, note 132.--ED.
+
+[120] An account of the founding of Ste. Genevi�ve is given in
+Cuming's _Tour_ in our volume iv, p. 266, note 174.--ED.
+
+[121] The mines here referred to are the _Mine La Mothe_ and the _Mine
+� Burton_; a more extended account of these will be given in Flagg's
+_Far West_, in our volume xxvi.--ED.
+
+[122] For the history of Fort Chartres, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in
+our volume iii, p. 71, note 136.--ED.
+
+[123] See opposite page for formations of limestone rocks.--ED.
+
+[124] Herculaneum is a small village in Jefferson County, Missouri, at
+the mouth of Joachim Creek, about twenty-eight miles below St. Louis,
+and a few miles above the hamlet of Selena. Herculaneum was laid out
+in 1808 by Moses Austin and S. Hammond, and subsequently was made the
+seat of Jefferson County.--ED.
+
+[125] Platteen (commonly spelled Plattin) Creek is a small stream
+rising in the southern part of Jefferson County, flowing north, and
+emptying into the Mississippi at the northern extremity of the county,
+four and a half miles below Herculaneum.
+
+The Maramec (often pronounced and written Merrimac) River finds its
+source in Dent County, Missouri, and flowing northeast joins the
+Mississippi nineteen miles below St. Louis. Its estimated length is a
+hundred and fifty miles, draining a territory rich in mines of copper,
+iron, and lead.--ED.
+
+[126] For an account of Jefferson Barracks, see Townsend's
+_Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 122, note 2.
+
+Carondelet, named for Baron Carondelet, Spanish governor of Louisiana
+in 1791, was formerly a village in St. Louis County, Missouri; but in
+1860 it was merged with the First Ward of St. Louis, under the name of
+South St. Louis.
+
+For Cahokia, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 70,
+note 135.--ED.
+
+[127] For the early history of St. Louis, see A. Michaux's _Travels_,
+in our volume iii, p. 71, note 138. Probably the author here intends
+Auguste Chouteau, stepson of Lacl�de, founder of the city--for the
+former consult our volume xvi, p. 275, note 127.--ED.
+
+[128] For a brief sketch of General William Clark, see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, in our volume v, p. 254, note 143; for a more extended
+notice, consult Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition_ (New York, 1905), introduction. This is an interesting
+glimpse of General Clark in the professional duties of his later
+life.--ED.
+
+[129] For the early history and the alliance of the Sauk and Foxes,
+see J. Long's _Voyages_, in our volume ii, p. 185, note 85. Black Hawk
+and his fellow prisoners were being kept as hostages for the good
+behavior of the remainder of the tribe, after the war of 1832. See
+Thwaites, "Black Hawk War," in _How George Rogers Clark won the
+Northwest_ (Chicago, 1903), pp. 116-200; and _Treaties between the
+United States of America and the several Indian Tribes_ (Washington,
+1837), pp. 508-510. Soon after Maximilian's visit, Black Hawk was sent
+on a tour to the East, in order that he might appreciate the resources
+and power of the American people.--ED.
+
+[130] Keokuk (Watchful Fox) was not a chieftain by birth, but by his
+address and eloquence raised himself to a prominent place in the
+allied Sauk and Fox tribes. Born at Saukenuk about 1780, he was
+younger than Black Hawk, and early took opposition to his policy.
+Keokuk was for peace and the American alliance, and about 1826 removed
+his division of the tribe across the Mississippi to a village
+southwest of the present Muscatine, Iowa. During the Black Hawk War he
+kept a large portion of the tribe neutral, and at its close was
+recognized by the federal government as head-chief of the tribe. In
+1836 a large tract of Iowa land was ceded by the Indians to the
+federal government, whereupon the tribesmen removed to Kansas. Keokuk
+visited Washington several times, notably in 1837, when he made
+addresses from the platform of Catlin's museum. Catlin painted his
+portrait in the full garb of an Indian councillor, and daguerreotypes
+of him also exist. His features were of a Caucasian type, for his
+father was part French. Keokuk died in Kansas in 1848; in 1883 his
+remains were removed to Keokuk, Iowa. It is not true that in person
+Keokuk surrendered Black Hawk to the American authorities. Consult on
+the capture of the latter, _Wisconsin Historical Collections_, v, p.
+293; viii, p. 316.--ED.
+
+[131] In confirmation of the similarity of the Americans to each
+other, we may quote the authority of Humboldt, and other travellers.
+(See Essay on the Political State of New Spain, vol. i. p. 115). Dr.
+Meyen gives a figure of a Peruvian Mummy (N. Acta Acad. Caes. Leop.
+Car. I. xvi. Suppl. 1. Tab. 1), which perfectly expresses the
+character of the North American Indians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[132] See Meyen, Loc. cit. p. 45.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[133] There are numerous tribes in North America, also, among whom the
+aquiline nose is very rare. This is certified, with respect to the
+Chippeways, in Major Long's account of his journey to St. Peter's
+River; and Captain Bonneville says that the people to the east of the
+Rocky Mountains have, in general, aquiline noses, but that the tribes
+to the west of those mountains, mostly straight or flat noses. (See
+Washington Irving's Adventures of Captain Bonneville, p.
+221.)--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[134] N. Bossu, a French officer who in 1750 came with troops to
+Louisiana. He remained about twelve years in the country, and
+published _Nouveaux Voyages aux Indes occidentales_ (Paris, 1768), an
+English translation of which appeared in 1771.
+
+For the fate of the Natchez, consult Nuttall's _Journal_, in our
+volume xiii, p. 303, note 226.
+
+The Botocudo are a Tapuyan tribe of southeastern Brazil.--ED.
+
+[135] For Baron von Humboldt, see our volume xviii, p. 345, note 136.
+
+Franz Julius Ferdinand Meyen was a German botanist who voyaged around
+the world in 1830-32. Upon his return he was called to a chair at
+Berlin, but died prematurely in 1840 at the age of thirty-eight. He
+published many memoirs in scientific journals, and in 1834-35 an
+account of his world-wide voyage.--ED.
+
+[136] Louis Isidore Duperrey, a French naval officer (1786-1865),
+entered the navy in 1802. Soon afterwards he made two long voyages
+around the world, and published much hydrographic and scientific
+matter. In 1842 he was chosen member of the French Academy of
+Sciences.--ED.
+
+[137] Loc. cit. p. 18.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[138] Loc. cit. p. 117.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[139] For Zebulon M. Pike, see Evans's _Pedestrious Tour_, in our
+volume viii, p. 280, note 122.--ED.
+
+[140] Loc. cit., vol. i. p. 3.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[141] Warden, Loc. cit., part ii. plate x. fig. 4.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Referring to D. B. Warden, _Recherches sur les
+Antiquities de l'Am�rique Septentrionale_. The stream where the
+antique vase was found, was Caney Fork of Cumberland, in central
+Tennessee.
+
+[142] The Foxes call this ornament kate�ikunn. I have given a figure
+of it, in the Plate of utensils and arms.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See Plate 81, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.
+
+[143] See Plate 36, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+Watapinat, a Fox Indian, is cited as being here portrayed. This
+drawing could not, however, be engraved; and so another Musquake (Fox)
+Indian, Wakassasse was pictured.--MAXIMILIAN (in German edition).
+
+
+[144] These small shell cylinders are known to be cut out of the
+shells of the _Venus mercenaria_, and strung on threads; they are
+arranged blue and white alternately. All the northern and eastern
+nations, in the neighbourhood of the great lakes, and even the tribes
+on the Lower Missouri, use this ornament, but not those on the Upper
+Missouri. On this subject see Blumenbach, Handbuch der Naturgeschichte,
+12 ed., p. 359, 385.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[145] An iron battle-axe, made by the whites, which has a pipe bowl at
+the back, the handle being bored through, to serve as tube to the
+pipe.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[146] This instrument is the only weapon of the Indians which has lost
+something of its original character, since the merchants have had them
+manufactured with a steel point, as an article of trade with the
+Indians. A specimen of the original form is found in Pennant's "Arctic
+Zoology," Plate VI., the middle figure.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[147] See Plate 81, figure 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[148] See the same Plate, figure 3.--ED.
+
+[149] In 1816, in order to control the neighboring territory, Fort
+Armstrong was erected on Rock Island. For many years Thomas Forsyth
+was Indian agent to the Sauk and Fox tribe at this place, and by many
+it was thought that had he not been removed the Black Hawk War might
+have been prevented. Felix St. Vrain, his successor, was slain at the
+outset of that uprising (1832). At the time of Maximilian's journey,
+W. S. Davenport was agent at Fort Armstrong.
+
+This treaty referred to was made in 1804 at St. Louis, by Governor
+William H. Harrison. It was not ratified, however, until January,
+1805. It was the inciting cause of the Black Hawk War. See Thwaites,
+_op. cit._ in note 127, _ante_, pp. 116-126.--ED.
+
+[150] For this reference see note 104, _ante_, p. 201.--ED.
+
+[151] See Thwaites, "Early Lead Mining on the Mississippi," in _How
+George Rogers Clark won the Northwest_, pp. 299-332.--ED.
+
+[152] Portions of this collection are still in possession of Clark's
+descendants; see Thwaites, "Newly Discovered Records of Lewis and
+Clark," in _Scribner's Magazine_, xxxv, pp. 685-700.--ED.
+
+[153] The "Warrior," built at Pittsburg in 1832, was rated at 110
+tons. It was used during the Black Hawk War to convey federal
+supplies, and took effective part in the battle of Bad Axe, by which
+Black Hawk's band was nearly annihilated. See J. H. Fonda's
+"Reminiscences," in _Wisconsin Historical Collections_, v, pp.
+261-264.--ED.
+
+[154] General Henry Atkinson was born in North Carolina in 1782. In
+1808 he entered the regular army as captain, mounting through various
+grades to that of brigadier-general (1821). He was connected with the
+Yellowstone expeditions of 1819 and 1825, but perhaps his most
+important service was as leader of the federal troops in the Black
+Hawk War, wherein he was called "White Beaver" by the Indians. At its
+close he took command of Jefferson Barracks, where he died in
+1842.--ED.
+
+[155] See Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 123, note 3,
+for a brief sketch of Black Hawk. His portrait was painted by Catlin
+at Jefferson Barracks, and again by R. M. Sully at Fortress Monroe.
+The latter canvas is in the museum of the Wisconsin Historical
+Society.--ED.
+
+[156] Winnebago Prophet, more commonly known as White Cloud (a
+translation of his Indian name Wabokieshiek), was the "medicine man"
+of Black Hawk's revolt. He was Winnebago on his mother's side, and had
+a village on Rock River, forty miles above Rock Island--the present
+Prophetstown, Illinois. After the war he was captured, and shared
+Black Hawk's imprisonment, dying among the Winnebago about 1841. His
+portrait was painted by Catlin at Jefferson Barracks, and again at
+Fortress Monroe by R. M. Sully--the latter, in the museum of the
+Wisconsin Historical Society, portrays a cunning, rather low type of
+face, stronger and more subtle than that of Black Hawk.--ED.
+
+[157] For Captain Stewart, see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume
+xxi, p. 197, note 42.--ED.
+
+[158] For the building and first voyages of the "Yellowstone" see our
+volume xxi, p. 46, note 26 (Wyeth).--ED.
+
+[159] For the Mackinac Company see Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, our
+volume vii, pp. 34, 35--ED.
+
+[160] See Washington Irving's Astoria.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[161] Astor's company had originally been organized in 1808. After
+absorbing the Mackinac Company it was until 1816 known as the South
+West Company, when a re-organization occurred, resulting in the
+American Fur Company. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp. 309-311. The
+Columbia River enterprise is narrated in our volumes vi and vii.--ED.
+
+[162] The Missouri Fur Company was organized (1808) soon after the
+return of the Lewis and Clark expedition, with Clark, a brother of
+Lewis, and several well-known merchants of Illinois and St. Louis as
+members. Its chief trader, later the president, was Manuel Lisa. After
+his death in 1820 the fortunes of the company declined.
+
+By the French Company Maximilian intends a firm composed of Papin,
+Cerr�, and Picotte, which in 1830 sold out to the American Fur
+Company. Its career was but about three years long.--ED.
+
+[163] The Columbia Fur Company was organized after the consolidation
+of the British companies (1821) had thrown a number of enterprising
+Scotch and Canadian traders out of employment. Its leading spirits
+were Kenneth McKenzie, William Laidlaw, and Daniel Lamont. Organized
+to trade within the boundaries of the United States, it was
+technically known as Tilton and Company, of New York. The chief
+outfitting post was built upon Lake Traverse, Minnesota, whence
+passage to the upper Missouri was quickly secured. The operations of
+this company harassed the American Fur Company, which in 1827 entered
+into a combination with the Columbia, thus securing control of the
+upper Missouri trade. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp.
+323-327.--ED.
+
+[164] For Ramsay Crooks, see our volume v, p. 36, note 3.--ED.
+
+[165] The Rocky Mountain Fur Company--first under General William H.
+Ashley, later under the Sublettes, Thomas Fitzpatrick, etc.--absorbed
+a large proportion of the Western fur-trade in the decade before
+Maximilian arrived in St. Louis. It was one of their caravans that
+Captain Stewart urged the prince to accompany. Consult our volume xxi,
+for the operations of this corporation.--ED.
+
+[166] Mr. Schoolcraft, in his latest journey to Itasca Lake (page 35),
+gives a short history of the fur trade, which, in many places, has
+already fallen into entire decay; for instance, on Lake St. Croix
+(page 141), if the inhabitants of those parts do not take to
+agriculture, they must emigrate or starve.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[167] For the early history of the Hudson's Bay and North West
+companies see preface to J. Long's _Voyages_, in our volume ii.--ED.
+
+[168] The "Upper Missouri Outfit" branch of the American Fur Company
+controlled the upper Missouri and its tributaries, from the date of
+consolidation with the Columbia Company (1827) until the advance of
+emigration and settlement made fur-trapping unprofitable.--ED.
+
+[169] For Major Benjamin O'Fallon and John Dougherty, see Faux's
+_Journal_ in our volume xii, p. 49, note 127, and James's _Long's
+Expedition_, in our volume xiv, p. 126, note 92.--ED.
+
+[170] Pierre Chouteau, jr., son of the elder of that name (for whom
+see our volume xvi, p. 275, note 127), was born at St. Louis, January
+19, 1789; among his family he was known as "Cadet." Early evincing
+unusual talents as a trader, he entered his father's business at the
+age of sixteen. The years 1806-08 he spent at the lead mines with
+Julien Dubuque, and in 1809 made his first fur-trade voyage to the
+upper Missouri, whose commercial destinies he was so long to control.
+In 1813 he formed a partnership on his own account with Bartholomew
+Berthold, which operated independently until they were bought out by
+the American Fur Company, for whom Chouteau became local manager.
+Later he extended his financial operations to New York, and became one
+of the moneyed princes of that city, although dying in St. Louis in
+1865. His public services were chiefly local, but he served in the
+state constitutional convention of 1820. He was interested in
+scientific pursuits, and ready to assist travellers bound on such
+errands.
+
+For Kenneth McKenzie see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 45,
+note 25. The winter of 1834-35 McKenzie paid a visit to Prince
+Maximilian in his German home, where he was received with much
+hospitality and brought news to his host of recent affairs on the
+Missouri, which the latter reports in the appendix to the German
+edition of his work, ii, p. 616.--ED.
+
+[171] Especially provisions, coffee, sugar, brandy, candles, fine
+gunpowder, shot of every kind, colours, paper, some books,
+&c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[172] For Joshua Pilcher, see our volume xiv, p. 269, note 193.--ED.
+
+[173] Major John F. A. Sanford was a native of Winchester, Virginia.
+Upon appointment to an Indian sub-agency, he came west, and (1827-34)
+lived among the Mandans; later (1837), he was agent at Fort Gibson. He
+married Emilie Chouteau, daughter of Pierre, jr. Subsequently becoming
+interested in American Fur Company affairs, he (about 1838) removed to
+New York as its representative.
+
+Jonathan L. Bean, of Pennsylvania, was government sub-agent (1827-34)
+for the Sioux.--ED.
+
+[174] Major Benjamin O'Fallon was a nephew of William Clark, and the
+map of the upper Missouri, which he furnished to Maximilian, was a
+manuscript copy of an original map by the hand of the famous explorer.
+Inquiry of the reigning prince of Wied-Neuwied elicits the following
+information: "Major O'Fallon made a present to the prince in the year
+1833, at the beginning of his journey of that year, of a copy of this
+chart, which the prince [Maximilian] during his journey completed and
+supplied its deficiencies. This copy, a little atlas of thirty-seven
+leaves, is in the archives here. Upon one leaf, in the handwriting of
+Prince Max, is the following inscription: 'I received this exact copy
+of the original by the goodness of the late Indian agent, Major
+O'Fallon.'" See Thwaites' _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition_, introduction, concerning Clark's maps and the extant
+originals.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+JOURNEY FROM ST. LOUIS TO THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH, OR TO THE
+BORDERS OF THE SETTLEMENT, FROM THE 10TH TO THE 22ND OF APRIL
+
+   Departure from St. Louis--The Engag�s, or Voyageurs--St.
+   Charles--Gasconade River--Osage River--Jefferson City--Boonville
+   and Franklin--Arrow Rock--Chariton--Grand River--Battle of the
+   Missouri Indians--Fire Prairie--Dangerous place and situation of
+   the vessel--Fort Osage--The Osages--Liberty--Quicksands--Konzas
+   River--Boundary of the United States--The Konzas
+   Indians--Pilcher's Expeditions--Little Platte River--Dwelling of
+   the Joways--Diamond Island--Cantonment of Leavenworth.
+
+
+On the 10th of April, at eleven o'clock, all our company having
+collected, the Yellow Stone left St. Louis; Mr. Pierre Chouteau, and
+several ladies of his family, accompanied us to St. Charles.[175] Some
+guns were fired, as a signal, on our departure, on which numbers of
+the inhabitants assembled on the shore, among them the Saukies and
+some half-civilized Kikapoo Indians. Mr. Bodmer made some interesting
+sketches of the former, of which the plate gives a specimen.[176]
+There were about 100 persons on board the Yellow Stone, most of whom
+were those called _engag�s_, or _voyageurs_, who are the lowest class
+of servants of the Fur Company. Most of them are French Canadians, or
+descendants of the French settlers on the Mississippi and Missouri.
+
+The appearance of the river above St. Louis did not differ from that
+already described. The red-bud (_Cercis Canadensis_) appeared as
+underwood in the forests, covered with dark red blossoms before the
+appearance of the leaves, which form red stripes along the shore, and
+make a pleasing contrast with the young, bright green leaves of the
+willows. At noon, Reaumur's thermometer on board was at +17��. We
+had soon passed the 16� miles to the mouth of the Missouri,[177]
+but before we entered it, we lay to, on the Illinois side, to take in
+wood. The Yellow Stone entered [pg. 113] the Missouri, which, at its
+mouth, is about the same breadth as the Mississippi at this place. In
+the afternoon we reached, on the S. W. side, Belle Fontaine, a rather
+decayed building belonging to the military station established, in
+1803, against the Indians, but which was subsequently abandoned. The
+current of the river runs here at the rate of five miles an hour; on
+the left bank there is a chain of calcareous hills with the same
+singular forms of towers, &c. as on the Mississippi. The bushes of
+wild plums were covered with snow-white blossoms, and those of the
+_Cercis Canadensis_, with their red flowers; and I could not help
+remarking that, in this country, most of the trees and bushes have
+their flowers before their leaves. On the beach the inhabitants had
+fixed fishing rods, which they examined, from time to time, and we saw
+them take up a large cat-fish. Towards evening the lofty plane trees,
+with their white branches, were beautifully tinged with the setting
+sun. We passed several islands, which showed us the usual formation of
+these accumulations of sand, which arise rapidly, and are often as
+rapidly destroyed. Against the stream they generally have a naked,
+sandy point, with layers of thick, heavy timber; young willows grow
+first, then poplars, and, lastly, hard timber. In many places in the
+forests, and between the willows, we observed the high rushes
+(_Equisetum hyemale_) which are said to be injurious to the horses,
+unless salt is given them with it.
+
+Next morning we reached St. Charles, on the N. E. shore, one of the
+oldest French settlements on the Missouri, consisting of about 300
+houses, where the massive church, with its low tower, has a very good
+appearance. The environs of this scattered village are rather bare,
+but there were many European fruit trees in blossom. Most of the
+houses are built of wood, but a modern part of the place is of brick.
+On an eminence rising behind it, stands an old stone tower, which
+formerly served as a defence against the Indians. We lay to, opposite
+St. Charles, where Messrs. Mc Kenzie and Dougherty joined us, and M.
+Chouteau and his family took leave, and returned to St. Louis. After
+stopping a few hours, we continued our voyage till a storm of wind
+filled the air with sand, from the sand banks, and compelled us to
+stop after twelve o'clock, above the whirlpool, called Remoux �
+Baguette;[178] towards dark, however, we reached Isle au Bon Homme, in
+the vicinity of which we passed the night. On the 12th of April, the
+original forms of the calcareous rocks again appeared, with the red
+cedar, as usual, growing upon them. The hills were covered with
+forests, where many trees were putting forth leaves, especially the
+very delicate green foliage of the sugar maple. A cavern at this place
+is called the Tavern Rock (Taverne de Montardis), and on both sides of
+the river were numerous snags, which often prove dangerous to vessels.
+Near some habitations the European peach trees were in blossom; among
+the strange forms of the rocks, I saw one flattened at the top like a
+table, on a thin stem, and quite isolated. The country is here pretty
+well peopled, and game is rather rare in the forests, at least we were
+told that stags, bears, and wild turkeys were not often found there.
+The people settle on the eminences, rather than below on the bank of
+the river, where the air is [pg. 114] said to be less salubrious. The
+inundations of the river form marshes on the low grounds, which, being
+protected from the sun by the surrounding trees, produce fevers.
+Flint, in his History and Geography of the Mississippi Valley,[179]
+gives a very good account of the climate and diseases of this country.
+We passed Isle and Rivi�re au Boeuf, as well as the village of
+Pinkney;[180] observed very picturesque rocky scenes, climbing plants,
+which twined round overthrown broken trunks of trees, and gloomy
+ravines, which were now full of the bright green young leaves that
+were everywhere sprouting forth. The Yellow Stone had several times
+struck against submerged trunks of trees, but it was purposely built
+very strong, for such dangerous voyages. This was its third voyage up
+the Missouri. The Fur Company possess another steamer called the
+Assiniboin which had left St. Louis to go up the Missouri before
+us.[181] At night-fall we lay to on the right bank, where a cheerful
+fire of large logs was soon made, round which our _engag�s_ assembled
+and chatted incessantly in French. We spent part of the night with
+Messrs. Mc Kenzie, Dougherty, and Sanford, under the canopy of the
+starry heavens, while a couple of clarionets, on board the vessel,
+played Scotch airs and the famous "Yankee-doodle."
+
+On the morning of the 13th of April, the weather was serene and cool,
+the thermometer, at eight in the morning, +5� Reaum., and at noon,
++9�. We had lain to, for the night, near Otter Island,[182] and soon
+saw before us the country about Gasconade River. There were extensive
+sand banks on the left hand, picturesque hills, many pleasing
+gradations of tint in the forests; an island, on the surface of which
+we distinctly saw the layer of black mould, six feet thick, with sand
+beneath it; further from the left bank a chain of hills, valleys, and
+eminences, covered with high trees, which were just beginning to put
+forth leaves, all illumined by the beams of the brightest morning sun.
+Near the Gasconade, where we took in wood, many interesting plants were
+in blossom. The Gasconade, which is an inconsiderable river, and rises
+not far from the source of the Merrimack, in the State of Missouri,
+expands behind a high, bold eminence, the summit of which is covered
+with rocks and red cedars. The hills near it are frequently covered
+with the white and the yellow pine, which supply St. Louis with boards
+and timber for building. Its mouth, which is reckoned to be 100 miles
+from that of the Missouri, is picturesquely situated in a lofty forest.
+Near it, our hunters fired unsuccessfully at a flock of wild turkeys.
+We soon passed the village of Portland; then the mouth of Little-Au-Vase
+Creek, where we observed, in the woods, the young leaves of the
+buck-eye trees (_Pavia_) which grew in great abundance.[183] A little
+further on, the Osage River appears between wooded banks: it is a
+small stream, in which, according to Warden, many soft-shelled
+tortoises are found: we came then to C�te-Sans-Dessein, an old French
+settlement of six or eight houses, celebrated for the brave defence
+made by a few men against a numerous body of Indians. It must have
+been formerly much more considerable, since Brackenridge calls it a
+beautiful place.[184] The river has destroyed it, and it is now quite
+insignificant. Opposite to it, on the left bank, further up the
+country, there [pg. 115] are many originally French families, and
+half-breeds, descendants of the Osage Indians, who formerly dwelt in
+these parts. While Mr. Bennett, the master of our vessel, landed to
+visit his family, who lived here, we botanized on the opposite
+bank, where oaks of many kinds were in blossom, and where the
+Monocotyledonous plant is found, which is called here Adam and Eve.
+Its roots consist of two bulbs joined together, of which it is said
+that, when thrown into the water, one swims and the other sinks. It is
+held to be a good cure for wounds. The flower was just beginning to
+appear.
+
+From C�te-Sans-Dessein, you soon come to Jefferson City, on the south
+bank of the Missouri, the capital, as it is called of the State of
+Missouri, where the governor resides.[185] It is at present only a
+village, with a couple of short streets, and some detached buildings
+on the bank of the river. The governor's house is in front, on the top
+of the bank, and is a plain brick building of moderate size. The
+gentle eminences, on which the place was built about ten years ago,
+are now traversed by fences, and the stumps of the felled trees are
+everywhere seen.
+
+The morning of the 14th of April was clear but cool; at 8 o'clock +8�,
+a thick mist rising from the river. On a wooded eminence, on the left
+hand, at some distance from the bank, is a high, isolated rock, which
+stands like a tower in the forest. Major Dougherty, once passing this
+place with some Joway Indians, was told by them, that there was a
+tradition among their ancestors, that this rock was formed of the dung
+of a race of bisons, which lived in heaven, but they themselves no
+longer believed this fable. The Manito rocks, two isolated blocks,
+about fifty feet high, which have been mentioned by many travellers,
+appear below, on the bank of the river. They are mentioned in the
+account of Major Long's Expedition, which contains much information
+respecting the Missouri, as far as Council Bluff, to which I refer. We
+learn from that work, that almost all these calcareous rocks of the
+Missouri contain organic remains, encrinites, &c. On the rocks, which
+are divided by ravines into broad rounded shapes, like towers, the
+Virginia red cedar grows, and falcons build their nests. We see here
+on the rocky walls red spots, strokes and figures, remaining from the
+times when the Indians dwelt here: two towering overhanging rocks, in
+which there are several caves, put me in mind of the ruins of the
+castle of Heidelburg. Just before dinner we reached Rockport, a
+village founded two years ago, on the Manito River, six miles up which
+river Columbia is situated.[186] Near this place there are again many
+red figures on the rocky walls, among others that of a man with
+uplifted arms; not thirty years have elapsed since this whole country
+was in the possession of the Indians. After passing Manito and Bonne
+Femme Creek, we stopped at the village of Boonville on the left bank,
+opposite which is Old Franklin.[187] As this place was threatened by
+the river, and is besides in an unhealthy situation, the people
+founded New Franklin, rather further inland, now a thriving village,
+near which salt springs have been discovered. We afterwards passed the
+mouth of La Mine River, which is about equal to the Lahn, and lay to
+for the night at Arrow Rock (Pierre � fl�che), a chain in which
+[pg. 116] flint is found, of which the Indians formerly made the heads
+of their arrows. In a ravine, before Arrow Rock Hill, there is a new
+village, which was called New Philadelphia, though the inhabitants did
+not approve of this name.[188]
+
+On the following morning (April 15th), proceeding on our voyage, we
+passed little Arrow Rock, and found a very fertile and rather populous
+country. Near the mouth of Chariton River, there are several islands,
+covered with willows, poplar, and hard timber. The river here makes a
+considerable bend; the numerous sand banks did not permit us to
+proceed in a direct line, but compelled us to take the narrow channel,
+at the outer edge of the bend, and to take soundings continually,
+being in great danger of striking against the snags. Some parts of the
+banks were rent in a remarkable manner by the rapid stream, when the
+water was high. In many places, large masses, fifteen or eighteen feet
+in height, had sunk down, with poplars thirty or forty feet high, as
+well as entire fields of maize, and piles of timber, which form
+together a wild scene of devastation, to which the broken poplars not
+a little contributed.
+
+The drift wood on the sand bank, consisting of the trunks of large
+timber trees, forms a scene characteristic of the North American
+rivers; at least I saw nothing like it in Brazil, where most of the
+rivers rise in the primeval mountains, or flow through more solid
+ground. On the banks which we now passed, the drifted trunks of trees
+were in many places already covered with sand; a border of willows and
+poplars was before the forest, and it is among these willow bushes
+that the Indians usually lie in ambush, when they intend to attack
+those who tow their vessels up the river by long ropes. At five
+o'clock in the afternoon we reached the mouth of Grand River, which
+was then very shallow, almost as broad as the Wabash. The Yellow Stone
+nearly run aground at the mouth of this river, and stirred up the sand
+so as to discolour the water. The Joway Indians dwelt on the Grand
+River till 1827, when they removed to Little Platte River.[189] They
+continue, however, like the Saukies and Foxes, to hunt in the prairies
+at its source, where buffaloes, elks, and stags, are said to be still
+pretty numerous. The first of these Indians called the Grand River,
+Nischna-Honja; and the Missouri, Nischna-Dja:--Ni, in their language,
+means water, and Nischna, the river.[190]
+
+We lay to, for the night, beyond Waconda Creek.[191] Our hunters
+dispersed into the neighbouring woods and plantations, but they only
+shot some parrots. On the 16th, in the morning, we had, on the left
+bank, undulating hills, thinly covered with trees, and on the bank
+were strata of limestone. Here is the mouth of the stream, the Bonnet
+de Boeuf, which, doubtless, has its name from the caps, with ox
+horns, which the Indians, who formerly dwelt here, wore in their
+dances. Some highly dangerous submerged snags left only a very narrow
+channel open for our vessel. At ten [pg. 117] o'clock we came to some
+excessively dangerous parts, where our vessel frequently struck, and
+we were obliged to stop the engine, and to push by poles. The vessel
+stuck fast in the sand, and it was necessary to fasten it to the trees
+on the bank till it could be got afloat again. At this point the great
+forests begin to be interrupted by open places, or prairies, and we
+were at the part called Fox Prairie, where the Saukie and Fox Indians,
+and, perhaps, some other nations,[192] formerly attacked, and nearly
+extirpated the tribe of the Missouris. The remainder of the people
+saved themselves among the Otos, on the southwest banks, where their
+descendants still live, mingled with the natives. The Missouris came
+down the river in many canoes, and their enemies had concealed
+themselves in the willow thickets. After the Missouris, who suspected
+no evil, had been killed or wounded with arrows, the victors leaped
+into the water, and finished their bloody work with clubs and knives:
+very few of the Missouris escaped.[193]
+
+To-day we saw, for the first time, from the deck of our vessel, the
+prairies of the Lower Missouri covered with luxuriant young grass, but
+the air was misty, and bounded our prospect. In the afternoon we took
+in fuel at Webb's warehouse; the river was here again covered with
+wood, which so greatly impeded our progress, that we were obliged to
+lay to for the night, seven miles above Webb's warehouse. In the
+morning of the 17th we saw only an uninterrupted forest; in the course
+of the day we again encountered much danger from the quantity of
+snags, which, in some places, scarcely left a channel of ten feet in
+breadth; but our pilot steered, with great dexterity, between all
+these dangers, where many a smaller vessel had been wrecked. During
+this hazardous navigation, we were all on deck, anxiously expecting
+the result, but everything went off well. We afterwards sounded,
+sought another channel, but proceeded very slowly, so that we only
+passed Fire Prairie,[194] and lay to for the night, five miles below
+Fort Osage.
+
+Our engine was broken, so that we could not proceed till the next
+morning (18th April). On that morning I had the misfortune to break my
+last Reaumur's thermometer, so that, henceforth, all the observations
+of the temperature are according to Fahrenheit's scale. Some of my
+people, attracted by the cries of the wild turkeys, were tempted to
+land, but returned without having met with any success. I happened to
+have taken no piece with me, which I much regretted, for a wild
+turkey-cock came out of a bush about ten paces from me, and stood
+still, looking at me, while his splendid feathers shone in the sun.
+Vegetation was rather backward. A large flock of sandhill cranes,
+taking their course to the north-east, filled the air with their
+cries; their note is very similar to that of the European crane. After
+the people had returned on board, at the repeated summons of the bell,
+we proceeded on our voyage, but were soon obliged to take soundings,
+and to saw off some dangerous snags; we then landed twenty men on a
+sand bank, to tow the [pg. 118] steamer, but their efforts broke the
+rope, and they all tumbled one upon another, to the great amusement
+of those on board. By way of precaution, our vessel was fastened to a
+large tree, which proved our safety, for the rudder was soon
+afterwards deranged, and rendered unserviceable. It was repaired about
+two o'clock, but we soon run aground on a sand bank, where we were
+obliged to remain all night, in a rather unsafe situation, for the
+current, on the bank, was very strong, and we could not fasten the
+vessel to anything, so that we might easily have been carried down the
+stream; the river, however, continued to subside. On the morning of
+the 19th a flat boat was procured, to lighten our vessel, by landing a
+part of the cargo, which was piled up in the wood, on the bank, and
+covered with cloths. Mr. Bodmer made a faithful sketch of this
+scene.[195]
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon, the crew had got the steamer off the
+sand bank into deeper water, on the right, a little below the mouth of
+Fishing Creek.[196] Here our anchors, boats, &c., were taken on board,
+and three men left to take care of the landed goods, which consisted
+of the presents for the Indians in Major Dougherty's agency. The flat
+boat was sent back to its owner, on Fishing Creek, under the care of
+thirty men, who had to wade in the water to keep it afloat. After
+taking in fuel, for which the wood of the red mulberry and the ash is
+preferred, we proceeded slowly, and reached, at dusk, the hill, on the
+right bank, where Fort Osage, built, in 1808, by Governor Lewis,
+formerly stood. The ridge on which it was situated is free from wood,
+and cultivated, and the last posts and beams were taken away by the
+people in the neighbourhood. This part of the country was the chief
+abode of the Osages. Only ten years ago they were still at
+C�te-Sans-Dessein. They are peaceably disposed towards the Americans;
+and the Fur Company have trading posts in their territory. The whole
+tract, from the Osage River, through which we have passed, was
+formerly theirs, but they sold a part of it to the United States, and
+they are now entirely forced back into the prairies, on the river
+Arkansas.[197]
+
+We lay to, for the night, a short distance below Fort Osage. On the
+20th, in the morning, Blue Water River was hid from us, by a long
+island, on the steep banks of which large snags, covered with sand and
+earth, projecting very far, formed a threatening point.[198] We had
+scarcely passed it, when we run aground on a sand bank. The engine was
+immediately backed; but the current carried the vessel so close to the
+above point, that it tore away our side gallery with a great crash.
+The carpenter soon repaired it, and our progress was now more
+favourable. At noon we had 68�� Fahrenheit. At this time a
+thunder-storm arose, accompanied with hail and rain. The rain
+continued to fall in torrents till we reached the landing-place of the
+village of Liberty, which is at some distance from the river.[199]
+Some buildings and detached houses were situated on the bank, in front
+of the wooded mountains, where the vigorous vegetation, refreshed by
+the rain, was very brilliant. The tall, slender, forest trees, grow
+among picturesque rocks; the beautiful flowers of the red bud tree,
+bright green moss, and a thick carpet of verdure, chiefly consisting
+[pg. 119] of the leaves of the May-apple (_Podophyllum_), everywhere
+covered the mountains. The papaw trees were just opening their buds.
+This is about the northern limit for the growth of this tree. Some
+keel-boats were lying here, belonging to the Fur Company of Messrs.
+Ashley and Soublette, which was just established as a rival to the
+American Fur Company.[200] In the pay of these gentlemen, there were,
+in the boats, about ten Germans, who had engaged in this service, for
+which they were not well qualified, and were, besides, wholly
+inexperienced in the mode of trading with the Indians. We next reached
+the mouth of the Blue Water River, the clear blue waters of which
+formed a great contrast to those of the Missouri.[201] We were here
+joined by a couple of canoes, with some Canadian _engag�s_ from the
+Upper Missouri, who brought to Mr. Mc Kenzie news from Fort Union, at
+the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. Their half Indian costume, which
+is usually worn, was new to us. One of them, named Defond, a tall,
+slender, brown man, was a half-breed Indian, and one of the best and
+most experienced pilots of the Missouri. Mr. Mc Kenzie had sent for
+him to steer our vessel up the river, and he fully justified his
+reputation. He was likewise a sportsman, and brought us several
+turkeys which had been lately shot. Before evening we became
+acquainted with the quicksands of the Missouri. These are sand banks
+which are so soft that one immediately sinks in them. We saw an ox,
+which went deeper at every motion, while nobody could afford it any
+assistance.
+
+On the next morning (21st April), we reached the mouth of the river
+Konza, or Konzas, called by the French, Rivi�re des Cans, which is not
+quite so broad as the Wabash, and was now very shallow. Its clear
+green water was distinguished by a well-defined, undulating line, from
+the muddy stream of the Missouri. The steam-boat has navigated the
+Konzas about seven miles upward, to a trading-post of the American Fur
+Company, which is now under the direction of a brother of Mr. P.
+Chouteau.[202] It is said that this country formerly abounded in
+beavers, but their numbers are much diminished. At the point of land
+between the Konzas and the Missouri, is the boundary which separates
+the United States from the territory of the free Indians. It runs
+directly from south to north, comes from the territory of the Osages,
+passes the Osage River, and goes northward from the Missouri, parallel
+to the Little Platte River, to Weeping Water River, which falls into
+the Missouri, whence it runs eastward to the Des-Moines and the
+Mississippi. About 500 or 600 paces from the mouth of the Konzas, the
+banks of the river consist of high yellow clay walls, in the forest;
+and near it live the remnants of several Indian tribes, which were
+driven or dislodged from the States to the east of the Mississippi, to
+whom land was assigned in these parts. Among them were the Delawares,
+Shawnees, Miamis, &c., &c.
+
+Proceeding 90 or 100 miles up the river, you come to the villages of
+the Konzas (Cans, of the French), the best accounts of whom are given
+by Mr. Say in the narrative of Mr. Long's travels.[203] These people
+formerly lived nearer to the Missouri, but have gradually retired from
+it. Their language is entirely the same as that of the Osages, and the
+language of these two people [pg. 120] is only a dialect, originally not
+different from that of the Omahas and Puncas, being distinguished only
+by the pronunciation, and not by its roots. At present the Konzas
+inhabit the tract on both sides of the river of the same name, and its
+tributaries, and they make excursions into the prairies of the
+Arkansas.
+
+We were now in the free Indian territory, and felt much more
+interested in looking at the forests, because we might expect to meet
+with some of their savage inhabitants. We examined the country with a
+telescope, and had the satisfaction of seeing the first Indian, on a
+sand bank, wrapped in his blanket; but our attention was soon called
+to the obstacles on the river: we avoided one dangerous place, where
+the Missouri was so full of trunks of trees that we were forced to put
+back; but at noon, when the thermometer was at 75�, we got among drift
+wood, which broke some of the paddles of our wheels, so that it was
+necessary to stop the engine. Forty-two of our men, most of whom had
+been out with their fowling-pieces, came on board. Among them was Dr.
+Fellowes, a young physician, going to the cantonment at Leavenworth.
+
+The underwood of the forest consisted chiefly of _Laurus benzoin_ and
+_Cercis Canadensis_; the ground was covered with _Equisetum hyemale_,
+from one and a half to two feet high. Limestone everywhere stood out;
+large blocks of it were on the bank. The Little Platte River here
+falls into the Missouri. On the northern bank, seven miles up that
+river, are the villages of the Joway Indians, who speak the same
+language as the Ottowas.[204] They inhabit and hunt the country about
+the Little Platte, Nadaway, Nishnebottoneh Rivers, together with a
+band of the Saukies, who have settled in this neighbourhood. A couple
+of Shawnee Indians stood on the high bank, and made us friendly signs.
+We halted, for the night, near Diamond Island; our people cut down
+some trees, and kindled a large fire, which illumined the tall
+forests.
+
+The next morning, 22nd of April, was warm and cheerful, the
+thermometer being at 64�� Fahrenheit, at half-past seven o'clock.
+About six, we passed several islands, separated by narrow channels,
+where our pilot steered so close to the left bank that the hens which
+we had on board flew to the land.[205] We soon came to a place where
+most of the trees were cut down, and we were not a little surprised at
+the sight of a sentinel. It was the landing-place of the cantonment
+Leavenworth, a military post, where four companies of the sixth
+regiment of infantry of the line, about 120 men, under Major Ryley,
+were stationed to protect the Indian boundary.[206] There were also
+100 rangers, who are mounted and armed militia, who are well
+acquainted with Indian warfare.
+
+We were stopped at this place, and our vessel searched for brandy, the
+importation of which, into the Indian territory, is prohibited;[207]
+they would scarcely permit us to take a small portion to preserve our
+specimens of natural history. Major Dougherty rejoined us here, and
+brought with him several Kickapoo Indians who had come from St. Louis
+to receive land in these parts.[208] The [pg. 121] Kikapoos, and
+Delawares, and some other Indians, are settled at no great distance
+from this place; the officers of the garrison were on board the whole
+day, and our hunters rambled about the surrounding country. We saw, in
+the neighbourhood, the beautiful yellow-headed _Icterus
+xanthocephalus_. The black oak and other trees were in blossom, and
+many interesting plants. Near the bank, where the vessel lay, the beds
+of limestone were full of shells, of which we kept some specimens.
+Between these limestone strata there were, alternately, thin layers of
+dark bluish clay slate, which was not yet very hard.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[175] Other travellers of our series made their way up the
+Missouri--Bradbury (volume v), and Brackenridge (volume vi), in 1811,
+in a barge; Long's party (our volumes xiv-xvii) in 1819, 1820 in a
+steamboat; Townsend (our volume xxi), in 1834, partly by land and
+partly by river. Such places as they mention will not here be
+specifically noticed, a general reference to these earlier volumes
+being considered sufficient.--ED.
+
+[176] See Plate 10, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. The
+Kickapoo are briefly noticed in Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i,
+p. 139, note 111. They removed to the west of the Mississippi after
+the treaty at Edwardsville, Illinois, in 1819.--ED.
+
+[177] Schoolcraft justly observes that the course of the Missouri is
+much more considerable than that of the Mississippi, and that it would
+have been more proper to leave the name Missouri to the river, and not
+call it the Mississippi.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[178] Still called Ramrod Eddy, about five miles above St. Charles.
+See Missouri River Commissioners' map, made by United States engineers
+in 1878-79, and published 1883-84.--ED.
+
+[179] See our volume xviii, p. 25, note 1.--ED.
+
+[180] The stream is now called Buffalo Creek, in Warren County, with
+the town of Dundee at its mouth.
+
+Pinckney was a small village, the seat of Montgomery County (1818-24),
+but now in Warren County, where a township still retains the name, the
+site of the town having long since been washed away.--ED.
+
+[181] The success of the steamboat "Yellowstone," in the fur-trade
+business, was so great that the company ordered a somewhat larger
+craft, which was built at Cincinnati in the winter of 1832-33, and
+christened the "Assiniboine." This was its initial voyage. The next
+year it ventured too far above the Yellowstone River, was caught by
+low water and obliged to winter near Poplar River. The "Assiniboine"
+was lost by fire near Bismarck, North Dakota, June 1, 1835, having on
+board a large cargo of furs, the year's supply, as well as all of
+Maximilian's collection. See preface, _ante_ p. 17.--ED.
+
+[182] Otter is more commonly known as Loutre Island; see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 47, note 18.--ED.
+
+[183] Au Vase (now Auxvasse) Creek took its name from the miring of a
+party under charge of Lilburn W. Boggs. It is in Callaway County; and
+Portland, a hamlet on the north side of the stream, was laid off
+therein in 1831.--ED.
+
+[184] The defense of this place is detailed in our volume xiv, pp.
+139, 140. For Brackenridge, see our volume vi.--ED.
+
+[185] In 1820 a commission was chosen to select a site for the state
+capital, somewhere near the centre of the state. The place selected
+was in Cole County, but it did not actually become the capital until
+about 1826. On Long's map it is marked as "Missouriopolis."--ED.
+
+[186] These two places are noticed in our volume xxi, p. 133, note 8
+(Townsend.)--ED.
+
+[187] For Boonville see our volume xxi, p. 89, note 59 (Wyeth). For
+Franklin, volume xix, p. 188, note 33 (Gregg).--ED.
+
+[188] Probably the settlement now known as Arrow Rock, in Saline
+County.--ED.
+
+[189] The treaty of cession was signed in 1824, whereby the Iowa
+Indians relinquished all lands in Missouri, agreeing not to hunt
+therein after January 1, 1826. See _Indian Treaties_ (Washington,
+1837), p. 316.--ED.
+
+[190] None of the Indian languages of these parts, of which Major
+Dougherty spoke thirteen or fourteen, have any general plural; thus,
+for instance, they never say, in general, _horses_, but always mention
+a number, as expressive of many horses; nor is there any real
+article.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[191] Wakenda Creek, the largest stream in Carroll County, is named
+from an Indian term meaning "divinity" or "worshipped."--ED.
+
+[192] Some accounts say that the Osages were the assailants, but I
+believe the above statement to be correct, because it was given me by
+Major Dougherty.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[193] This defeat of the Missouri, once the most powerful tribe on the
+lower reaches of the river, occurred toward the close of the
+eighteenth century. Small-pox completed the destruction of the tribe.
+See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, p. 56, note 26.--ED.
+
+[194] Fire Prairie is on the south bank of the Missouri, in the
+present Lafayette County, a creek of the same name entering the river
+at this point. It is said to take its name from the death there of
+several Indians in a prairie fire.--ED.
+
+[195] See Plate 37, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[196] Fishing Creek (or River) rises in Clinton County and flows south
+and southeast into the Missouri through Clay and Ray counties.--ED.
+
+[197] An historical notice of old Fort Osage is given in Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 60, note 31. The Osage Indians, _ibid_, p.
+50, note 22. The cession by which the Osage were forced back was made
+at St. Louis in June, 1825, under General William Clark's
+superintendency.--ED.
+
+[198] Now known as Little Blue Creek, rising on the southern borders
+of Jackson County and flowing nearly north into the Missouri.--_Ed._
+
+[199] Liberty, the county seat of Clay, was settled in 1822, but up to
+1826 had only about a dozen houses; it was incorporated in 1829.
+During the Mormon troubles of the fourth decade of the nineteenth
+century, Liberty rose into prominence. The town is set back about six
+miles from the river, on the high, salubrious uplands. Liberty
+Landing, on the river, was in the days of the Santa F� trade of some
+commercial importance.--ED.
+
+[200] Maximilian's remarks are misleading in regard to the operations
+of these traders. Ashley began his fur-trading ventures in 1822; four
+years later he sold out to Smith, Jackson, and Sublette; they in turn
+relinquished their business to younger traders in 1830. So the Rocky
+Mountain Fur Company had for about eleven years been an efficient
+rival to the American.
+
+For a brief sketch of Sublette see our volume xix, p. 221, note 55
+(Gregg).
+
+General William Henry Ashley was born in Virginia in 1778. Soon after
+the beginning of the nineteenth century he went to Missouri, settling
+first at Ste. Genevi�ve, later in St. Louis, and embarking in various
+mercantile enterprises. In 1816-17 he surveyed in the state, and the
+knowledge thus obtained permitted him to make heavy investments for
+some English capitalists, which laid the foundation of his fortune. In
+1820 he was elected lieutenant-governor, and during his term (1820-24)
+began his fur-trading exploits, from which he derived profit and fame.
+His title came as leader of the state militia, in whose development he
+was much interested. In 1831 he was appointed to a vacant seat in
+Congress, being re-elected thereto two successive terms. He died at
+St. Louis in 1838.--ED.
+
+[201] The Big Blue rises in Johnson County, Kansas, and flows
+northeast and north through Jackson County, Missouri, until it joins
+the Missouri six miles below Kansas City.--ED.
+
+[202] This trading post was on the south side of the Kansas, opposite
+Muncie, in what is now Wyandotte County, built about 1828. It was for
+many years in charge of Cyprian Chouteau (1802-79), half brother of
+Pierre, jr. Fr�mont set out thence on his journey (1842).--ED.
+
+[203] See our volume xiv, pp. 183-198.--ED.
+
+[204] These villages of the Iowa, on the Little Platte, appear to have
+been temporary. Probably the tribe had fled in this direction after
+the troubles of the Black Hawk War (1832). In 1836 they ceded this
+strip--which was added to Missouri as the "Platte Purchase"--and
+removed to Kansas. The author cannot intend that the language of the
+Iowa resembled that of the Ottawa; the former is of Dakota stock, the
+latter of Algonquian. The Sauk and Foxes, at this time intimately
+commingled with the Iowa, spoke Algonquian.--ED.
+
+[205] For these islands, see our volume xiv, p. 174, note 141.--ED.
+
+[206] Fort Leavenworth was founded to supersede two smaller
+posts--Forts Osage and Atkinson--the latter near Council Bluffs. The
+site was chosen because of the increasing interest in the Santa F�
+trade, and because of the removal of large tribes of Indians west of
+the Missouri border. On March 7, 1827, Colonel Henry Leavenworth was
+ordered to proceed from Jefferson Barracks and choose the site for an
+establishment on the left bank of the Missouri, within twenty miles of
+the mouth of Little Platte. He selected instead Rattlesnake Hills on
+the right bank, a site later approved by the government. Fort
+Leavenworth has been an important military post throughout the history
+of the West. It was called Leavenworth Cantonment until the name was
+officially changed to "Fort," about 1832.
+
+For Major Bennett Riley see our volume xix, p. 185, note 25
+(Gregg).--ED.
+
+[207] This law was passed in the first session of the twenty-second
+congress, and was merely a portion of an act to create an Indian
+commissioner. It caused but little debate, and apparently was fathered
+by General Ashley and others cognizant of conditions in the fur-trade.
+For the consternation it created among the traders consult Chittenden,
+_Fur-Trade_, index.--ED.
+
+[208] According to the treaty held at St. Louis in 1832, with the
+Kickapoo chiefs, a deputation was to visit the new territory in Kansas
+and agree to the lands chosen. This was accordingly done in November,
+and this would appear to be among the arrivals early in the spring of
+1833 to take possession of the new reservation.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+JOURNEY FROM THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH TO THE PUNCA INDIANS, FROM
+APRIL 22ND TO MAY 12TH
+
+   Dangerous place, Wassoba-Wakandaga--Independence
+   River--Blacksnake Hills, with Roubedoux Trading House--The
+   Joways and Saukies--Nadaway River--Wolf River--Grand Nemahaw
+   River--Country of the Half-breeds--Nishnebottoneh River--Little
+   Nemahaw River--Violent Storm--Weeping-water Creek--La Platte
+   River--Belle Vue, Dougherty's Agency--The Omaha Indians--Their
+   Dance--Council Bluffs--Boyer's Creek--Little Sioux
+   River--Blackbird Hills--Floyd's Grave--Big Sioux River--Joway
+   River--Vermilion Creek--Jacques River--The Punca
+   Indians--Meeting with the Assiniboin Steamer.
+
+
+The Yellow Stone left the cantonment at five in the afternoon of the
+22nd of April, and we soon reached the narrow part of the river called,
+by the Osages and Konzas, Wassoba-Wakandaga (Bear-Medicine).[209]
+There were so many trunks of trees in the river that it seemed very
+problematical whether we should be able to pass between them. Our
+people cut off some of the most dangerous branches below water, and
+got our vessel gradually through; soon after which we lay to for the
+night.
+
+The next morning, 23rd of April brought us a storm, with thunder, but
+without lightning. Early in the morning a large branch of a tree,
+lying in the water, forced its way into the cabin, carried away part
+of the door case, and then broke off, and was left on the floor. After
+this accident, when one might have been crushed in bed, we came to Cow
+Island, where, in 1818, some troops, on their way to Council Bluff,
+were overtaken by the frost, and obliged to pass the winter.[210] At
+half-past seven o'clock, the temperature was 67�. The heat of the
+preceding day had greatly advanced vegetation; the forests were
+beautifully verdant, and there were many flowers. The Indians now make
+sugar from the maple. The Kikapoo Indians, whom we had seen at St.
+Louis, were to have lands assigned them in these parts, and their
+territory is said to extend to Independence River. There were no fixed
+Indian villages at that time, but the [pg. 123] Joways, Saukies, and
+Foxes hunt in these parts. We proceeded past Cow Island, which is six
+miles in length, and covered with poplars, and shave grass. The sand
+was marked by the footsteps of the stags which come here to drink, by
+which they tread down deep paths to the water's edge, and lick holes
+in the saline clay of the bank. Here began green hills without wood,
+which are the transition to the entirely naked prairie, as they at
+first alternate with woods, which grow in the ravines, and on the
+banks of the river. At twelve o'clock the thermometer was at 77�. Our
+navigation was attended with many difficulties to Independence River,
+the mouth of which is on the right bank; here we reached, on the same
+side of the river, naked grassy eminences, where a village of the
+Konzas formerly stood, and which is still usually marked in the maps.
+The Spaniards had a post of a few soldiers here.[211] The soil is said
+to be very fertile and favourable to settlers. The forests were now in
+their greatest beauty, and began to afford some shade.
+
+On the 24th we saw the chain of the Blacksnake Hills, but we met with
+so many obstacles in the river that we did not reach them till towards
+the evening. They are moderate eminences, with many singular forms,
+with an alternation of wooded and open green spots. Near to the steep
+bank a trading house has been built, which was occupied by a man named
+Roubedoux, an agent of the Fur Company.[212] This white house,
+surrounded by the bright green prairies, had a very neat appearance,
+and Mr. Bodmer sketched this pretty landscape, which had a beautiful
+effect of light and shade. It is only this part of the chain that is
+called Blacksnake Hills, for the chain itself is no other than that
+which we had long observed on the banks, of which there are two, one
+on each side, running parallel to each other, and forming the valley
+of the Missouri, more or less approaching to or receding from it. The
+river flows through the alluvial soil which it has thrown up, and
+which is changed, every year, crossing from one chain to the other,
+and, where it reaches the chain, produces high banks by the shock.
+
+When the steam-boat lay to, between 500 or 600 paces from the trading
+house, some of the _engag�s_ of the company came on board, and
+reported that the Joway Indians, whose village was about five or six
+miles distant, had made an incursion into the neighbouring territory
+of the Omahas, and killed six of these Indians, and brought in a
+woman and child as prisoners, whom they offered for sale. Major
+Dougherty, to whose agency the Joways belong, immediately landed to
+rescue the prisoners, accompanied by Major Bean and Mr. Bodmer, but
+they returned, at eleven o'clock at night, without having accomplished
+their object, because the Joways, fearing his reproaches, had
+completely intoxicated both themselves and their prisoners.[213] Mr.
+Bodmer brought some beautiful plants from the prairie, among which
+were [pg. 124] the fine orange-coloured flowers of the _Batschia
+canescens_, which we here saw for the first time.
+
+On the forenoon of the following day, the 25th, we passed the mouth of
+the Nadaway River,[214] and met with many difficulties, so that we
+were even obliged to back for some distance, and landed our
+wood-cutters in Nadaway Island. A Captain Martin wintered on this
+island for two seasons, 1818 and 1819, with three companies of
+riflemen.[215] At that time there was so much game that they entirely
+subsisted on it. We were told that in one year they killed 1,600, in
+the other 1,800 head of game (_Cervus Virginianus_), besides elks and
+bears; and wounded, perhaps, as many more of those animals, which they
+were unable to take. The woods were very picturesque. The numerous
+horse-chestnuts were in full leaf; the white ash was in flower, as
+well as many species of pear and plum, which looked as if covered with
+snow, and formed a beautiful contrast with the red masses of the
+flower of the _Cercis_. The canal between Nadaway Island and the
+cantonment is called Nadaway Slew, at the end of which we saw the
+remains of some Indian huts. In a dark glen in the forest, we observed
+a long Indian hut, which occupied almost its whole breadth, and must
+have served for a great number of persons. The bald eagle had built
+its nest on many of the high trees on the bank. In some places we saw
+smoke rising in the forest; in others, the trees and the ground were
+burnt quite black. Such fires are sometimes caused by the Indians, in
+order to escape the pursuit of their enemies, and sometimes, also, by
+the agents of the fur traders. We were told that the forest was green,
+this year, a fortnight earlier than usual. We saw everywhere pairs of
+the beautiful _Anas sponsa_, which came out of the holes in the bank,
+where they doubtless had their nests. Before dusk we reached the mouth
+of Wolf River, where an eagle had built her nest. The Oto Indians,
+mixed with some Missouris, live in these parts, on the west bank of
+the Missouri.[216] They are allies of the Joways, and hunt as far as
+the river La Platte.
+
+On the following morning, April 26th, we saw great numbers of water
+fowl, and many wild geese with their woolly young; the parents never
+abandoned them, even when our people shot at them. The care and
+anxiety which these birds shewed for their young interested us much.
+We came to the mouth of the Grand Nemahaw river in a beautiful
+romantic country, from which, to the Little Nemahaw, the territory of
+the people called Half-breeds extends. Among the Omaha, Oto, Joway,
+and Yankton (Sioux) Indians, there lived from 150 to 200 of their
+descendants by white men, to whom they assigned this tract of land as
+their property. They had taken this resolution two years before, but
+had not yet carried it into execution. The land was given by the Otos
+to whom it belonged, and the other tribes bore part of the expenses.
+Towards noon, when the thermometer was at 27�, we again, several times
+touched the bottom, near Tarkio [pg. 125] River, but without receiving
+any injury. Picturesque forests alternate with the verdant alluvial
+banks of the river, and Indian hunting huts were everywhere seen, but
+no inhabitants. One may travel thousands of miles along this river
+without seeing a human being. From the mouth of the Nishnebottoneh to
+Council Bluffs, there is a narrow green prairie before the chain of
+hills; the mouth itself is between lofty trees on the east bank. In
+the wood below, Major Dougherty once killed twenty elks, all belonging
+to one troop. They had divided, and part broke into the ice in the
+river, where they fell a prey to the Otos who pursued them. Beavers
+formerly abounded in this river, but they are now extirpated. When the
+evening sun, gradually sinking behind the tall forest, illumined the
+whole country, we had a lovely view of the chain of hills, variously
+tinged with brilliant hues of violet, pink, and purple, while the
+broad mirror of the river and adjacent forest shone as if on fire.
+Silence reigned in these solitudes, the wind was hushed, and only the
+dashing and foaming of our steamboat interrupted the awful repose. We
+were disagreeably roused from our reverie by our vessel striking
+against the snags in the river. We passed the night near Morgan's
+Island, not far from which there was formerly a trading house for the
+Oto Indians, but it no longer existed.[217] The note of the
+whip-poor-will, which we had not before met with, was heard in all the
+adjacent forests.
+
+The next morning, proceeding on our voyage, we plainly observed in
+the steep banks of the river, the alternate strata of clay and sand,
+with a thick layer of fertile black mould at the top, and, about eight
+feet below the surface, a black stratum of bituminous coal, or coal
+slate, which we were, however, unable to examine closely. On the bank
+we saw what are called pumice stones, which are pieces of the rock of
+the Upper Missouri, changed by fire, and brought down by the river;
+the Indians use this pumice stone to smooth their tanned and hardened
+skins. At the mouth of the Little Nemahaw River, the Missouri was very
+shallow. Our vessel having received several violent shocks by
+striking, and a storm, accompanied by heavy rain, arising, we ran
+aground, about noon, on a sand bank, and were obliged to put out a
+boat to take soundings, but the wind, which blew with increasing
+violence from the open prairie on the south-west, drove us further
+into the sand bank. Every moment it became more furious; our vessel
+lay almost on her side, which the people endeavoured to counteract by
+fastening her with strong cables to the trees lying in the water.
+After dinner several of our hunters went on shore, but the boat had
+scarcely returned, when the storm suddenly increased to such a degree
+that the vessel appeared to be in imminent peril. One of our chimneys
+was thrown down, and the foredeck was considered in danger; the large
+coops, which contained a number of fowls, were blown overboard, and
+nearly all of them drowned. As they got upon the sand banks they were
+afterwards taken up, with other things which we had been obliged to
+throw overboard; our cables had, happily, held fast, and, as the wind
+abated a little, Captain Bennett hoped to lay the vessel close to the
+bank, which was twenty feet high, where it would be safe [pg. 126] but
+the storm again arose, and we got deeper and deeper into the sands.
+Some of our hunters and Mr. Bodmer appeared on the bank, and wanted to
+be taken on board, but the boat could not be sent, and they were
+obliged to seek shelter from the storm in the neighbouring forests.
+Mr. Mc Kenzie, and other persons acquainted with the Missouri, assured
+us they had never encountered so violent a storm in these parts. After
+four o'clock, however, the wind abated, and the boat was dispatched to
+pick up the articles we had lost.
+
+On the following day we were obliged to lighten the ship before we
+could proceed, by landing the wood which we had taken in the previous
+day, and many other articles. Our vessel, however, soon ran aground
+again, and as we could not proceed, we made the vessel go backwards to
+the right bank, where we passed the night. In the preceding year the
+Yellow Stone had been detained five days at this place. Towards
+evening a flock of above 100 pelicans, flying northwards, passed over
+us. Their flight was in the form of a wedge, and sometimes of a
+semicircle. On the 29th, we found sufficient water, and proceeded; a
+still larger flock of pelicans induced our _engag�s_ to make use of
+their rifles, and they winged one of the birds, which strutted about
+on the shore, but we could not venture to take it. At half-past seven,
+A.M., we were at a place called the Narrows of Nishnebottoneh; here,
+about thirty miles from its mouth, this river comes so near to the
+Missouri, that between both there is an interval of only 200 paces.
+The appearance of the chain of hills beyond the Nishnebottoneh is very
+remarkable.[218] The calcareous rock is in very strange forms,
+sometimes like entrenchments and bastions, partly clothed with
+verdure, partly with dry yellow grass, and spotted with yellowish red
+clay. The soil is extremely fertile, and well adapted for agriculture;
+formerly there were hundreds of elks and stags in these parts, but
+they are now rarely met with. By a general agreement the Otos, Joway,
+Fox, and Saukie Indians hunt this country in common. Having been on
+shore for some time, I was returning to the vessel when the pilot
+called out that there was a rattlesnake very near me, the rattle of
+which he heard; I looked, and immediately found the animal, and having
+stunned it with some slight blows, I put it into a vessel in which
+there were already a live heterodon and a black snake, where it soon
+recovered. The three agreed very well together, but were afterwards
+put into a cask of brandy to go to Europe. This rattlesnake was of the
+species _Crotalus tergeminus_, first described by Say, which is very
+common on the Missouri. The water being too shallow, it was necessary
+partly to unload the vessel on a sand bank, and to stop for the night.
+On the morning of the 30th, many attempts were made to move from this
+spot; we sounded, put out thirty men, but were at last obliged to
+return to the place where we had passed the night. Messengers were
+then sent up the river to endeavour to procure a keelboat; meanwhile
+all our hunters went ashore. I found in the vicinity traces of the
+Indians, and large traces of wolves in the sand. A storm drove us back
+to the vessel, and soon drenched us with a torrent of rain. Our
+hunters killed a wild goose, a wood duck, and an owl, and brought a
+[pg. 127] black snake with them; one of them had broken off a piece of
+poison vine, by which his hands and face were much swollen; but the
+people here do not much mind such accidents, though the swelling
+frequently lasts many days.
+
+The 1st of May set in with rain and a clouded sky; the forests were
+dripping wet; during the night we had observed some fireflies.
+Numerous flocks of two kinds of swallows passed us, flying to the
+north. About noon a white cat-fish was caught by one of the lines
+which we had thrown out; a second broke the strong line as we were
+drawing it up. The first we had caught weighed sixty pounds, and we
+soon took another weighing sixty-five pounds, and a third weighing 100
+lbs, in the jaws of which was the hook of the line that had been
+broken. In the stomach of this and the other cat-fish were found large
+pieces of pork, the bones of fowls, &c., feet of geese, all refuse
+from the vessels; and likewise the entire gills of another large fish.
+A great number of leeches were attached to the gills of these fish. It
+is only on the Upper Missouri that this fish attains so large a size.
+
+On the following morning the Missouri had risen a little. In the
+neighbouring thickets some birds were singing, or rather twittering,
+and there was nothing like the loud concert which, at this season of
+the year, animates the European forests. The Yellow Stone did not set
+out till near eleven o'clock. In the afternoon we came to some almost
+perpendicular hills on the bank, the base of which consisted of
+violet, the middle of bluish grey, the upper part of yellow red clay.
+In some places a whole colony of swallows had built against them.
+About the place where Weeping-water Creek opens, among beautiful
+thickets, before the green hills of the prairies, we met with great
+obstructions, and were several times obliged to put the vessel back.
+We reached Five Barrel Islands, in a broad part of the river, just
+when the evening sun gave a peculiar charm to the verdant
+landscape.[219] The forest was picturesque but not very lofty; the
+bird cherry was in flower, but the blossoms of the red bud had lost
+their bright colour. Vines twined round the trunks of the trees, and
+the numerous blossoms of the phlox formed blue spots amongst the
+rocks. Towards night we met a canoe, with two persons on board, one of
+whom was M. Fontenelle, clerk to the Fur Company, who resided near at
+hand at Belle Vue. He was a man who had much experience in the trade
+with the Indians, and had often visited the Rocky Mountains. As he was
+shortly to undertake an expedition to the mountains, with a body of
+armed men, he turned back with us.[220]
+
+Early on the morning of the 3rd of May, we came to the hill called by
+the Otos and Omahas--Ischta Maso, or Ischta Manso (the iron eye). It
+is rather higher than the neighbouring hills, and a small stream of
+the same name runs from its side into the Missouri.[221] We were now
+near the month of La Platte River. Four or five miles before you come
+to the conflux, you distinguish the water of the two rivers by their
+colour, that of the La Platte being clear and green, and keeping
+unmixed on the western bank. A mile further up, the water was covered
+with foam, in [pg. 128] consequence of the heavy rains. In half an hour
+we came to the first mouth of the river, which is divided from the
+second by a low island, with gently rounded verdant hills in the back
+ground. The second mouth is the largest. There were large piles of
+drift wood on the sand bank, next the island. The river, which was
+much swollen, brought down wood and foam, and its waters, though, at
+present, not quite clear, yet still of a bluish tint, were plainly
+distinguished as they ran in a semicircular bend, from the yellowish,
+dirty water of the Missouri. After passing the sand bank at its mouth,
+we reached, in twenty minutes, Papilion Creek, and saw before us the
+green-wooded chain of hills with the buildings of Belle Vue, the
+agency of Major Dougherty. There were many sand banks in the river, on
+which there were numbers of wild geese, and some quite white birds,
+with black quill feathers--perhaps cranes or pelicans. At two in the
+afternoon we reached M. Fontenelle's dwelling, consisting of some
+buildings, with fine plantations of maize, and verdant wooded hills
+behind it. A part of the plantations belongs to the government. The
+prairie extends beyond the hills. The land is extremely fertile; even
+when negligently cultivated, it yields 100 bushels of maize per acre,
+but is said to produce much more when proper care is bestowed on it.
+The cattle thrive very well, and the cows give much milk, but some
+salt must now and then be given them. M. Fontenelle expected to
+possess, in a few years, 5,000 swine, if the Indians did not steal too
+many of them. The government of the United States bought of the
+Indians a great tract of land to the east of the Missouri, extending
+to Big Sioux River, but have hitherto left them in possession of this
+land.[222]
+
+Belle Vue, Mr. Dougherty's post, is agreeably situated. The direction
+of the river is north-west. Below, on the bank, there are some huts,
+and on the top the buildings of the agents, where a sub-agent, Major
+Beauchamp, a blacksmith, and some servants of the company, all lived
+with their families, who attend to the plantations and affairs of the
+company. These men were mostly married to women of the tribes of the
+Otos and Omahas; all, on our landing, immediately came on board. Their
+dress was of red or blue cloth, with a white border, and cut in the
+Indian fashion. Their faces were broad and coarse, their heads large
+and round, their breasts pendent, their teeth beautiful and white,
+their hands and feet small and delicate. Their children had dark brown
+hair, and agreeable features. Belle Vue was formerly a trading post of
+the Missouri Fur Company, on the dissolution of which it was bought by
+M. Fontenelle, who parted with it to the government, and was
+appointed to the agency of the Otos, Omahas, Pawnees, and
+Joways.[223] M. Fontenelle settled, as I have said, 600 or 800 paces
+further down the river. Here the Yellow Stone lay to, and we inspected
+the buildings of the agency, from which there is a very fine view of
+the river, especially from the summit of the hill, where the cemetery
+is situated. The rock here is limestone, with a great number of
+shells, of which, however, I could see only bivalves; but our time was
+too short to decide on this point.
+
+[pg. 129] It was near this place that a marauding party of twelve Joways
+lately crossed the river, and pursued a defenceless company of Omahas,
+who had just left Belle Vue; and, having overtaken them three miles
+off, killed and plundered all of them, except some who were
+desperately wounded, and whom they believed to be dead. The victors
+returned by another way. A woman and a child recovered. Major
+Dougherty took leave of us at Belle Vue, intending to go to the
+Omahas, and appease the vengeance of that tribe. About five in the
+afternoon we also left, and were proceeding along the west bank, when
+we met two Mackinaw[224] boats, which had been obtained for our
+vessel by a boat which we had sent before. On the same bank we
+suddenly saw three Omaha Indians, who crept slowly along. They were
+clothed in buffalo robes, and had bows, with quivers made of skin, on
+their backs. About the nose and eyes they were painted white.[225]
+
+  [Illustration: Omaha Indians]
+
+Among these Indians there was a woman who had been severely wounded;
+namely, the well-known Mitain, who is spoken of in Major Long's
+"Travels to the Rocky Mountains," as an interesting instance of
+maternal affection, but without mentioning her name. She and her child
+had received many severe wounds, but were so fortunate as not to be
+scalped.[226] The nearest village of the Omahas is twenty-five miles
+from Belle Vue.[227] This country is the proper territory of this
+tribe, which lives on both sides of the Missouri, from Boyer River to
+Big Sioux River, and hunts further up to Jacques River, as well as
+between Running Water River (l'eau qui court) and the La Platte.
+
+On the morning of the 4th of May, at half-past seven o'clock, the
+thermometer was at 69��. We had all round us beautiful low prairie
+hills, before which was alluvial land, thrown up by the [pg. 130] river,
+covered with fine grass. The river had risen an inch during the night.
+The noise and smoke of our steamer frightened all living creatures;
+geese and ducks flew off in all directions. There was formerly a
+village of the Joway Indians at this place, the inhabitants of which,
+on the death of their chief, returned to their countrymen further
+down. On the left bank there were whole tracts covered with dead
+poplars, which had been killed by the fires caused by the Indians
+in the forest and prairie. We soon saw the white buildings of Mr.
+Cabann�'s trading post, which we saluted with some guns, and then
+landed.
+
+We were very glad to see, at the landing-place, a number of Omaha and
+Oto Indians, and some few Joways, who, in different groups, looked at
+us with much curiosity; all these people were wrapped in buffalo
+skins, with the hairy side outwards; some of them wore blankets, which
+they sometimes paint with coloured stripes. In their features they did
+not materially differ from those Indians we had already seen, but they
+were not so well formed as the Saukies. Many of them were much marked
+with the small pox. Several had only one eye; their faces were marked
+with red stripes: some had painted their foreheads and chins red;
+others, only stripes down the cheeks. Few only had aquiline noses, and
+their eyes were seldom drawn down at the corners; generally speaking,
+their eyes are small, though there are exceptions. They wore their
+hair loosely hanging down their backs; none had shaved their heads;
+and, on the whole, they looked very dirty and miserable. The
+countenances of the women were ugly, but not quite so broad and flat
+as those of the Foxes and Saukies; their noses, in general, rather
+longer. Their dress did not differ much from that of those Indians,
+and they wore the same strings of wampum in their ears. The men
+carried in their hands their tobacco pipes, made of red or black stone
+(a hardened clay), adorned with rings of lead or tin, which they
+generally obtain from the Sioux, at a high price.
+
+This trading post consists of a row of buildings of various sizes,
+stores, and the houses of the _engag�s_, married to Indian women,
+among which was that of Mr. Cabann�, which is two stories high. He is
+a proprietor of the American Fur Company, and director of this
+station.[228] He received us very kindly, and conducted us over his
+premises. From the balcony of his house was a fine view over the
+river, but the prospect is still more interesting from the hills which
+rise at the back of the settlement. Between the buildings runs a small
+stream, with high banks, which rises from a pleasant valley, in which
+there are plantations of maize for the support of the inhabitants. Mr.
+Cabann� had planted fifteen acres of land with this invaluable grain,
+which yield, annually, 2,000 bushels of that corn, the land here being
+extremely fertile. The banks of the stream are covered with fine high
+trees, and many of the plants were in flower, especially the beautiful
+blue lychnis, the white oak, &c. A high wind prevailed throughout the
+day, but, within doors, the weather was warm, 78� at four o'clock. Our
+vessel remained here the whole day, and we were besieged all the time
+by Indians, who caused a very disagreeable heat in our cabins. Among
+[pg. 131] them was a Joway, called Nih-Yu-M�h-Ni (_la pluie qui
+marche_), who sold us several articles of his dress. Mr. Bodmer made a
+sketch of the boy of an Omaha, whom the father first daubed with red
+paint. He took vermilion in the palm of the hand, spat upon it, and
+then rubbed it in the boy's face. The head of this boy was shaved
+quite smooth, excepting a tuft of hair in front, and another at the
+back.[229] A number of men and women stood round, looking on with
+eager curiosity. I showed the Indians a rattlesnake in brandy, and
+they gave me to understand that a child had lately been bitten by one
+of these animals, and died in consequence. The little child, lately
+wounded by the Joways, was brought to us; the wounds, though they had
+not been dressed and covered, were almost healed.
+
+  [Illustration: An Omaha boy]
+
+We spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. Cabann�; sitting in the
+balcony of his house, we enjoyed the delightful temperature and the
+fine scene around us. The splendid sky was illumined by the full moon;
+silence reigned around, interrupted only by the noise of the frogs,
+and the incessant cry of the whip-poor-will, in the neighbouring
+woods, till the Indians assembled round the house, and, at the request
+of Mr. Cabann�, performed a dance. About twenty Omahas joined in it;
+the principal dancer, a tall man, wore on his head an immense feather
+cap, like those of the Camacans in Brazil, but larger and of less
+elaborate workmanship, composed of long tail and wing feathers of owls
+and birds of prey;[230] in his hand he held his bow and arrows. The
+upper part of his body was covered only with a whitish skin, which
+fell over the right shoulder and breast, and was adorned with bunches
+of feathers; his arms, face, and the uncovered parts of his body, were
+painted with white stripes and spots. His trousers were marked with
+dark cross stripes, and trimmed at the ankles with a great quantity of
+fringe. He also wore an apron. He had a savage and martial appearance,
+to which his athletic figure greatly contributed. Another man, [pg. 132]
+who was younger, of a very muscular frame--the upper part of whose
+body was naked, but painted white--had in his hand a war club, striped
+with white, ornamented at the handle with the skin of a polecat.[231]
+He wore on his head a feather cap, like that already described. These
+two men, and several youths and boys, formed a line, opposite to which
+other Indians sat down in a row; in the middle of which row the drum
+was beat in quick time. Several men beat time with war clubs hung with
+bells; and the whole company (most of whom were painted white) sung,
+"Hi! hi! hi!" or "Hey! hey! hey!" &c., sometimes shouting aloud. The
+manner of the dance was thus: bending their bodies forward, they
+leaped up with both feet at once, not rising high from the ground, and
+stamped loudly, while the drum beat in quick time, and their arms were
+rattled and occasionally lifted up into the air. Thus they leaped
+opposite to each other, with great exertion, for about an hour; they
+perspired violently, till the usual presents, a quantity of tobacco
+stalks, were thrown on the ground before them. This dance was very
+interesting to me, especially in connection with the beautiful evening
+scene on the Missouri. The bright light of the moon illumined the
+extensive and silent wilderness; before us, the grotesque band of
+Indians, uttering their wild cry, together with the loud call of the
+night raven, vividly recalled to my mind scenes which I had witnessed
+in Brazil. We did not return to our vessel till late at night, after
+taking leave of our kind host, and of Major Pilcher; the former was on
+the point of returning to St. Louis, leaving the superintendence of
+the trading post to Major Pilcher.
+
+  [Illustration: Omaha war club]
+
+The Omahas, or, as some erroneously call them, Mahas, were formerly a
+numerous tribe, but have been much reduced by frequent wars with their
+neighbours; the smallpox, too, has committed dreadful ravages, and
+there are now but few vigorous young men among them. Their language
+differs from that of the Otos, Missouris, and Joways; there is,
+however, an affinity between them. The best and most complete accounts
+of the Omahas are given by Mr. Say in his Narrative of Major Long's
+"Expedition to the Rocky Mountains," to which I would refer my
+readers.[232]
+
+On the 5th of May, the Yellow Stone left Cabann�'s trading house; the
+weather was warm [pg. 133] and serene; we passed the mouth of Boyer's
+Creek on the east bank, where the Missouri makes a bend, and saw the
+ruins of the former cantonment, or fort, at Council Bluffs.[233] This
+military post was established, in the year 1819, for 1,000 men, but,
+in fact, there were now only 500 men of the regiment in garrison at
+Jefferson barracks. In the year 1827, these troops were withdrawn and
+stationed at Leavenworth; the fort, or, rather, the barracks, formed a
+quadrangle, with a bastion or blockhouse, in two of the angles. At
+present there were only the stone chimneys, and, in the centre, a
+brick storehouse under roof. Everything of value had been carried away
+by the Indians. We were told that numerous rattlesnakes are found
+among the ruins. The situation of Council Bluffs is said to have been
+much more favourable for observing the Indians than that at
+Leavenworth; and it was even conjectured that this post will be again
+occupied. The military station was at first placed a little further
+inland, but the scurvy carried off 300 of the garrison in one winter.
+Mr. Sandford, who had rejoined us, once found here the large grinders
+of a mastodon, which are now in the possession of General Clarke, at
+St. Louis.
+
+At twelve at noon, we ran aground, but happily sustained no damage, at
+a dangerous place, where the left bank was blocked up with many snags,
+and which is called the Devil's Race-ground. The country was low and
+uniform till we again reached the hills, which were rather bare of
+wood, but of grotesque form, and covered with a fine verdant carpet.
+Near the mouth of the Soldier River, an _engag�_ met us, who brought
+letters from the Assiniboin steamer. We went on pretty well till the
+evening, when we got upon a sand bank, and then made the vessel fast
+for the night; after which our people exerted themselves to get off
+the bank, in the midst of a storm of thunder and lightning.
+
+The steamer was got afloat by daybreak on the 6th. On both sides there
+was alluvial soil, thickly covered with willows and poplars, mixed, in
+some places, with other trees. Here we saw, on a sand bank, two large
+wolves, which seemed to look at us with surprise. The Omaha Indians
+hunt on both banks of this part of the river; they are said to be the
+most indolent, dull, unintellectual, and cowardly of the Missouri
+Indians. At two in the afternoon we landed on the prairie, which was
+covered with tall trees, and forty or fifty of our men immediately
+began to hew down wood for fuel; there was abundance of grass, but not
+a single flower, which was caused by the prairie having been set on
+fire; black burnt wood was scattered about, and the ground itself was
+discoloured in places by the effects of the fire.
+
+From this place the country becomes more and more level, and bare of
+wood, and the eye roves over the boundless prairie. Behind a
+willow-tree I saw some remains of Indian huts, in front of one of
+which a pole was set up, with a piece of red cloth attached to the
+top. The forest, which had been inundated, was likewise destitute of
+flowers; numerous traces of stags were everywhere seen. During the
+night a man deserted, whom Mr. Mc Kenzie had some time before put under
+arrest for having uttered vehement threats. The 7th day of May, the
+anniversary of our [pg. 134] departure from Germany, was very fine. We
+soon reached the chain of hills on the left bank, at a place where the
+yellow limestone rock was nearly perpendicular, and in which
+innumerable swallows had built their nests; these are called Wood's
+Hills, and do not extend very far. On one of them we saw a small,
+conical mound, which is the grave of the celebrated Omaha chief,
+Washinga-Sahba (the blackbird). In James's Narrative of Major Long's
+Expedition, is a circumstantial account of this remarkable and
+powerful chief, who was a friend to the white man: he contrived, by
+means of arsenic, to make himself feared and dreaded, and passed for a
+magician, because he put his enemies and rivals out of the way when it
+suited him. An epidemical smallpox carried him off, with a great part
+of his nation, in the year 1800, and he was buried, sitting upright
+upon a live mule, at the top of a green hill on Wakonda Creek. When
+dying, he gave orders that they should bury him on that hill, with his
+face turned to the country of the white men.[234] The Omahas have been
+since so reduced by their enemies, the Sioux, Saukies, and Foxes, that
+they are now quite powerless and insignificant, not being able to
+muster above 300 or 400 warriors. Washinga-Sahba was so feared by his
+own people, that nobody ventured to wake him when he slept: it is said
+that they used then to tickle his nose with a blade of grass. The
+present chief of the Omahas is Ongpa-Tanga (the great elk), of whom
+Godman, in his Natural History, has given a good portrait. He lives on
+the Horn River, which falls into the La Platte, about twenty miles
+above its mouth.[235]
+
+On the following day (the 8th of May) we came to Floyd's Grave, where
+the sergeant of that name was buried by Lewis and Clarke. The bank on
+either side is low. The left is covered with poplars; on the right,
+behind the wood, rises a hill like the roof of a building, at the top
+of which Floyd is buried. A short stick marks the place where he is
+laid, and has often been renewed by travellers when the fires in the
+prairie have destroyed it. A little further up is Floyd's River, and
+on Floyd's Hills there were a few fir trees, over which the kite
+hovered in the air.[236] About half a league beyond Floyd's River is
+the mouth of the Big Sioux River, interesting from the circumstance of
+its being the boundary of the territory of the Dacota, or Sioux
+nation. Its breadth, at the mouth, is about sixty paces, and it is
+said to be navigable by Mackinaw boats for 100 miles. About 120 miles
+up this river, a tribe of the Sioux reside, which is known by the name
+of Wahch-Pekut�; this, and another tribe of this people on the
+Mississippi, and near Lake Pepin, are the only ones of their nation
+who plant maize; all the other hordes of the Sioux are hunters. The
+territory of these people formerly extended further to the south, till
+the before-mentioned treaty for the purchase of land was concluded
+with the Indians.[237]
+
+At noon, with a temperature of 75�, there was such a violent wind,
+that the fine sand from the banks penetrated into the innermost parts
+of our vessel; the broad river was so agitated by the wind, that the
+pilot could not distinguish the sand banks, and we were obliged to lie
+to. In a small meadow in the woods we saw the giant footsteps of the
+elks, and likewise of the common [pg. 135] stag, which we would
+willingly have followed had not a rising tempest compelled us to
+return on board. Vivid lightning flashed in the horizon, the rain soon
+poured down in torrents, and at night a storm arose which, at
+midnight, raged with such fury, that we might have felt some alarm,
+had not our vessel been so well protected by the bank. The storm
+frequently forced open the doors of the upper cabin, and the rain beat
+into the room. Towards daybreak the tempest returned with increased
+violence; the flashes of lightning and the claps of thunder were
+incessant during the twilight, and everybody thought that the vessel
+must be struck.
+
+The 9th of May set in with rain, a cloudy sky, and high wind; the
+thermometer, before so high, fell, at half-past seven o'clock, to 56�.
+When the storm had passed over, our vessel quitted the place where it
+had taken shelter. We passed along wild, desolate banks, then a green
+prairie, by a chain of steep hills, partly bare, partly covered with
+forests, or with isolated fir trees and picturesque ravines, with dark
+shadows, into which the close thicket scarcely allowed the eye to
+penetrate. We here saw, for the first time, a plant which now became
+more and more common; namely, the buffalo-berry-bush (_Sheperdia
+argentea_, Nutt.), with pale, bluish-green, narrow leaves. At the
+mouth of the Joway River, which runs into the Missouri, on the south
+bank, at a very acute angle, clay-slate appeared to stand out on the
+bluffs, divided into narrow, horizontal strata, the lower of which
+were blackish-blue, and those above of yellowish-red colour.[238] Our
+hunters and wood-cutters landed, on which occasion we lost a hound,
+which had strayed too far into the forest. Five or six hundred paces
+further up, we saw, among the thickets of willow and poplar, an old
+Indian wigwam,[239] near which the red willow, mixed with the common
+willow, was in blossom. The thermometer, which had been at 56� in the
+morning, rose at ten o'clock, when the sun broke through the clouds.
+We frequently observed the wild geese, which endeavoured to take their
+young, of which they never had more than four or six, to some place on
+shore, where they would be safe from us. When we came very near, the
+mother fluttered anxiously to a little distance, and called them to
+her.
+
+We continued our voyage, but soon lay to at the prairie, on the right
+bank, because Mr. Mc Kenzie wished to form a plantation at this place.
+The whole plain was covered with high, dry grass. On the bank of the
+river there was a fine border of tall timber trees, in which the
+turtle-dove cooed, and flocks of blackbirds were flying about. The
+hills of the prairie were covered with the finest verdure, and the
+singular forms of the hills afforded us an interesting subject of
+observation on the otherwise uniform appearance of the country. We
+halted for the night near the high trees that bordered the prairie,
+where there were numbers of ducks and plovers. As soon as it was dark,
+the young men set fire to the dry grass of the prairie, to give us the
+pleasure of seeing how the fire spread, but the attempt did not fully
+succeed, because there was [pg. 136] no wind. Mr. Mc Kenzie left some men
+here, with agricultural implements, to make a plantation; among them
+was one Fran�ois Roi, of Rheims, whose name gave occasion to many
+innocent jokes, and we deliberated what name should be given to the
+kingdom he was going to found.
+
+On the following day, the 10th, we had been exactly four weeks since
+we left St. Louis. At the spot where we now were, it is said that
+large herds of buffaloes are seen in the winter, but we had not yet
+met with one of these animals. The character of the country was much
+changed; it is, for the most part, naked, and without woods. The trees
+which are found here are no longer lofty and vigorous, as on the Lower
+Missouri; yet the wild vines are still seen climbing on the bushes,
+though this, too, entirely ceases further up the river. Near the mouth
+of Vermilion Creek, the green hills of the prairie approach very near
+the water; and here we saw, on the back of one of the hills, a grave
+surrounded with poles, which was that of some Sioux Indians, who had
+been killed by lightning in a violent thunder-storm. At the mouth of
+the stream we saw wild ducks and geese, of which a pair of the latter,
+with six young ones, anxiously endeavoured to escape us. The female
+remained faithfully with her young ones, while the male flew away.
+
+The morning of the following day (the 11th of May) brought us to the
+mouth of Jacques River, which was concealed from our view by a sand
+bank. The steep banks, which in Lewis and Clarke's map are called
+Calumet Bluffs, have deep ravines, and are of an ash-grey colour at
+the base, and yellow above. We reached the island called by those
+travellers Sego Island, where we found very little water, and then
+came to Lewis and Clarke's White Bear Bluffs, of which Mr. Bodmer made
+a drawing.[240] At noon the thermometer was at 63�. After dinner we
+saw, at a distance, the Assiniboin steamer, with which we came up in
+half an hour. It had not been able to proceed any further for want of
+a sufficient depth of water. After we had saluted the master of the
+vessel, Mr. Pratte, son of the General of that name at St. Louis, and
+a member of the American Fur Company, we went on board his
+vessel.[241] In this steamer there were two cabins, much lighter and
+more pleasant than those in the Yellow Stone; the stern cabin had ten
+berths, and the fore cabin twenty-four, and between decks was the
+large apartment distinct for the _engag�s_. The crew had lately killed
+a she-bear--the young ones were alive on board. While we were visiting
+the Assiniboin, we suddenly perceived, on the left or southern bank,
+a number of Indians, between fifteen and twenty of whom rolled down
+the hills. As our people did not seem very desirous of having anything
+to do with them, and contented themselves with looking at them through
+a telescope, we took advantage of the fine weather to make an
+excursion into the prairie.
+
+The chain of hills, bounding the valley of the Missouri on the north,
+crossed the verdant prairie, in a straight line, at a distance of
+about 1,000 paces from the river. The appearance of this chain was
+singular, with perpendicular, yellow, calcareous walls, which
+indicated that the [pg. 137] river must, formerly, have flowed in that
+direction; and the cylindrical hollow marked the ancient bed of the
+river. In the prairie itself there were many pools of water, and we
+found several interesting plants, among which were some with long
+roots like carrots, especially the yellow flowering _Batschia
+longiflora_ (Pursh.), and the _Oxitropis Lamberti B._ The great
+yellow-breasted lark (_Sturnella_, Vieill.), was everywhere seen in
+pairs, and its short, coy call, and its pleasing, whistling note, were
+heard from every side. Besides these, we saw the prairie hen, and the
+great long-billed curlews (_Numenius longirostris_), of which we shall
+speak hereafter. Skeletons of buffaloes were scattered in the plain,
+especially many skulls, but very few of which were entire.
+
+When I returned to the vessel, I found there three Punca Indians, the
+chief of the tribe Shudegacheh,[242] his brother Passitopa,[243] and
+Ha-cha-ga. They were all robust, good-looking men, tall, and
+well-proportioned, with strongly-marked features, high cheek-bones,
+aquiline noses, and animated dark hazel eyes. Their hair hung down as
+far as the shoulders, and part of it lower; that of the chief was
+shorter, and fastened together in a plait. The upper part of the body
+of these Indians was naked, only they wore round the neck an
+ornamented band, and had a large slit in their ears: from those of the
+chief an ornament of shell work was suspended. His beard below the
+chin consisted of scanty hairs, which had been suffered to grow very
+long.[244] They wore a narrow bracelet of white metal round the wrist,
+very plain, leather pantaloons, and large buffalo robes; the chief,
+however, was wrapped in a white blanket.
+
+The Puncas, as they are now universally called, or as some travellers
+formerly called them, Poncaras, or Poncars, the Pons of the French,
+were originally a branch of the Omahas, and speak nearly the same
+language. They have, however, been long separated from them, and dwell
+on both sides of Running-water River, and on Punca Creek, which Lewis
+and Clarke call Poncara. They formerly lived, like the Omahas, in clay
+huts, at the mouth of the river, but their powerful enemies, the Sioux
+and the Pawnees, destroyed their villages, and they have since adopted
+the mode of life of the former, living more generally in tents made of
+skins, and changing their place from time to time. Their external
+appearance and dress do not much differ from those of the Omahas. They
+are said to have been brave warriors, but have been greatly reduced by
+war and the smallpox. According to Dr. Morse's report, they numbered,
+in 1822, 1,750 in all; at present the total amount of their warriors
+is estimated at about 300.[245] The band of them, which [pg. 138] we
+met with here, has set up eight or nine leather tents, at the mouth
+of Basil Creek,[246] on a fine forest.[247] They plant maize, which
+they sell to the Sioux, but they had neglected to cultivate this grain
+for about three years, and obtained it from the Omahas; they, however,
+intended to grow it again themselves.
+
+As Major Bean was agent of the Puncas, they came to speak to him. The
+chief had formerly received, through the agent, a large silver medal
+of President Madison, which he wore suspended round his neck. On the
+face of all these medals, which are given as a distinction to the
+Indian chiefs, there is the bust of the President, and, on the
+reverse, two clasped hands, with a suitable inscription.[248]
+Shudegacheh had a remarkably intelligent countenance, and fine manly
+deportment. He sat down by us, and smoked, with his comrades, the only
+pipe that they had with them; but, according to Indian custom, several
+pipes soon circulated in the company. The evening was very cool, and,
+as some of the Indians had no leggins, we took them into our cabin,
+where their portraits were drawn, after they had been regaled with
+pork, bread, and tea, which Mr. Mc Kenzie gave them. One of the Indians
+made me a present of his wooden war-club, which was painted
+reddish-brown;[249] another, with a pair of shoes, made of elk
+leather, which were dyed black with the juice of white walnut. These
+people were not armed, as they had come merely on a visit, and had
+left their best effects behind. Among them was a French Canadian,
+named Primeau, who has long lived among them. He acted as
+interpreter, and communicated to me some words of the Punca
+language.[250]
+
+  [Illustration: Punca war club]
+
+The morning of the 12th of May was cold, there having been a hoar
+frost during the night. The Indians sat upon the bank, wrapped in
+their buffalo skins, as represented in the subjoined woodcut.[251]
+
+  [Illustration: Punca Indians in buffalo robes]
+
+[pg. 139] While the Yellow Stone remained stationary, the Assiniboin
+attempted to pass the shallow place on the river, during which time
+the hunters went into the prairie. The Indians had a conference with
+their agent, in which the chief expressed a wish that their great
+father (the President) would send them several articles, particularly
+agricultural implements. The attitude and gestures of the speaker were
+graceful; his right arm and shoulder were bare, while he gesticulated
+with his hand; and his fine, manly countenance was very expressive. As
+he had not put on his leggins, we observed, on his muscular calves,
+two tattooed stripes crossing each other, X; otherwise, he was neither
+tattooed nor painted. Some of these Indians had been inoculated with
+the smallpox by a surgeon, whom Major Bean had taken to them the year
+before, and who had inoculated 2,600 Indians of different tribes. Many
+of them had manifested distrust on this occasion; and, when he offered
+to perform the operation, said, "Now we are well; if we should become
+sick it will be time enough to submit to the operation." Shudegacheh
+had on the upper part of his arm a large, round scar, which he is said
+to have burnt into his flesh with his tobacco-pipe, on the death of a
+relation. Major Bean presented to the Indians, in the name of the
+Government, tobacco, powder, and ball, and the chief received a fine
+blanket. Mr. Mc Kenzie observed to him, that "the Puncas furnished
+too few skins, and did not plant maize enough; it was not possible
+to purchase anything of them;" to which he replied, that "there was no
+unity among his people; that they lived too scattered, and, therefore,
+he could not superintend them, and keep them to work." At noon, the
+thermometer being at 67�, our hunters returned, without having seen
+anything of consequence, except a couple of large curlews. The boats,
+which had been sent out to take soundings, likewise came back, and
+great exertions were made to lighten the steamer, by transferring part
+of the cargo to the Maria keel-boat. At length, at two o'clock, we
+were able to weigh anchor, and run awhile down the river, which was
+done with such rapidity that the Indians became giddy, and sat down on
+the floor. In this manner we turned round a sand bank, and proceeded
+upwards, along the south coast of the river, and in twenty minutes
+were opposite the huts of the Punca Indians. They lay in the shade of
+a forest, like white cones, and, in front of them, a sand bank
+extended into the river, which was separated from the land by a narrow
+channel. The whole troop was assembled on the edge of the bank, and it
+was amusing to see how the motley group crowded together, wrapped in
+brown buffalo skins, white and red blankets--some naked, of a deep
+brown colour. The little children, with their protuberant
+bellies,[252] and their legs, of a dark brown colour, carrying bows
+and arrows in their hands, were running along the beach, or cowering
+like little monkeys, while the men walked about, very gravely, with
+their weapons in their hands. We landed our Indian visitors on the
+sand bank; the boat brought back some skins, and we afterwards saw
+Primeau, with the Indians, wade through [pg. 140] the channel. A little
+further up we witnessed a great prairie fire, on the left bank. The
+flames rose from the forest to the height of 100 feet--fiery smoke
+filled the air: it was a splendid sight! A whirlwind had formed a
+remarkable towering column of smoke, which rose, in a most singular
+manner, in graceful undulations, to the zenith. Afterwards we came to
+steep hills, behind which is Manoel's Creek, so called from Manoel
+Lisa, a Spaniard, who formerly carried on the fur trade in these
+parts.[253] Towards evening we were near the Assiniboin steamer, which
+lay before us, and halted in the vicinity of Basil Creek, where the
+Puncas formerly dwelt, numbers of whose graves are seen upon the
+hills. The trunks of trees in the river had much injured our paddles.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[209] Lewis and Clark apply this term with different orthography
+(Waucarba, wacandda) to the island above Fort Leavenworth now known as
+Kickapoo. The river is here compressed into a narrow space, above
+which it widens considerably. See Thwaites, _Original Journals of the
+Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 64.--ED.
+
+[210] For this detachment under Captain Martin, see our volume xiv, p.
+175.--ED.
+
+[211] The creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because its mouth was
+passed by them on July 4, 1804. It is a small stream entering the
+Missouri near the boundaries of Doniphan and Atchison counties,
+Kansas. According to Lewis and Clark this was the second old Kansa
+village, the first being just above Kickapoo Island. If the Spanish
+ever had a post in this vicinity, it must have been in the capacity of
+succeeding (after 1764) to the possession of the old French post among
+the Kansa Indians. See on this subject, _Original Journals of the
+Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, pp. 64-68, and notes.--ED.
+
+[212] Joseph Robidoux, whose trading post was on the site of the
+future city of St. Joseph, which took its name from its founder. The
+Robidoux were a family of fur-traders. The father, Joseph, came from
+Montreal to Kaskaskia, and having won a competence removed to St.
+Louis, where at his house the first territorial legislature of
+Missouri met in 1812. Joseph, jr., was born in 1783, and early entered
+the fur-trade. Lewis and Clark met "young Mr. Robidoux" on their
+return journey (1806), and scrutinized his license with some
+suspicion. Lewis also complained of the loyalty of the elder trader,
+saying that he enticed the Indians from their allegiance to the United
+States. The younger Robidoux lived for many years at the post where
+Maximilian met him--in 1868 dying at this place, where the city had
+already sprung up around him. See sketch in Joseph Tasse, _Canadiens
+du Nord-Ouest_ (Montreal, 1878), ii, p. 131.--ED.
+
+[213] The Joways had exchanged their blankets and other effects for
+brandy. White settlers have already established themselves fifteen or
+sixteen miles within the Indian territory, who make whisky, and sell
+it excessively cheap to the Indians, by which these people are ruined.
+The distance is only eight miles from Roubedoux trading house to the
+Little Platte River; and between these two rivers and the high land,
+is the village of the Joways.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[214] This is, doubtless, the same river which Bradbury, in his
+_Travels_, calls Naduet River.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[215] For Captain Martin see James's _Long's Expedition_, in our
+volume xiv, p. 175, note 142. Maximilian would here appear to be
+confused. Martin passed the winter of 1818 to 1819 on Cow Island (see
+note 208, _ante_, p. 256). He had, however, a hunting camp in this
+vicinity.--ED.
+
+[216] For the Oto, see Bradbury's _Travels_, our volume v, p. 74, note
+42.--ED.
+
+[217] Morgan's Island is just below Nemaha City, in the Nebraska
+county of the same name. Probably it took its title from Colonel
+Willoughby Morgan, for whom see our volume xiv, p. 178, note 146. The
+trading post has not been identified, unless it were that of Crooks
+and McClellan, who once (1810-11) wintered in this region. See
+Brackenridge's _Journal_, volume vi of our series, p. 71.--ED.
+
+[218] Lewis and Clark found the passage across the narrows at this
+point but 300 yards. Changes have since occurred in the beds of both
+rivers. See our volume xiv, p. 217, note 166. The range of hills was
+aptly designated by the explorers as Bald Pated Prairie.--ED.
+
+[219] Weeping Water Creek is a small stream paralleling the Platte in
+Cass County, Nebraska. The French form was "l'eau qui pleure."
+
+Five Barrel Islands are laid down on early maps; with changes in the
+river's bed, they are now swept away.--ED.
+
+[220] For a brief sketch of Fontenelle, see our volume xiv, p. 275,
+note 196.--ED.
+
+[221] See Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our volume vi, p. 76, for the
+origin of this name. The Indian name of the chief--an Oto--is given by
+Lewis and Clark as "Sarnanona."--ED.
+
+[222] In the Appendix there is an account of this
+purchase.--MAXIMILIAN. _Comment by Ed._ See our volume xxiv.
+
+[223] The first trading post in this locality (with possible
+exceptions for the Spanish r�gime) was that of Crooks and McClellan,
+who in 1810 built a "wintering establishment" here, which was
+abandoned the following spring--see Bradbury and Brackenridge (1811).
+Shortly after, Manuel Lisa built his well-known Fort Lisa, some
+sixteen miles above Bellevue, which continued to be the prominent post
+of the vicinity (see James's _Long's Expedition_, our volume xiv, p.
+221), near which the Yellowstone Expedition built Engineer Cantonment
+for the winter of 1819-20. The Missouri Fur Company, under Joshua
+Pilcher, who succeeded Lisa as president, removed from Fort Lisa to
+the site of Bellevue about 1823. It was this post that Fontenelle
+bought out, and turned over to the American Fur Company when he became
+their agent. The post was for many years in command of Peter Sarpy.
+The Indian agency was officially entitled "Council Bluffs at
+Bellevue." In 1849 a postoffice was established here, and the village
+incorporated in 1854; some of the post buildings remained until 1870.
+Bellevue is now a village in Sarpy County, of which it was the capital
+until 1875.--ED.
+
+[224] Mackinaw boats are strong, open vessels, made of a light wood,
+in which goods are conveyed on the rivers of the Northern and Western
+States.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[225] See opposite page for illustration of Omaha Indians.--ED.
+
+[226] See our volume xv, pp. 27-33. This woman was the Indian wife of
+Manuel Lisa. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp. 133-135. Judge Walter
+B. Douglas, of St. Louis, furnishes the following facts concerning
+Lisa's daughter, who was educated among the whites. She married a
+Baptist minister named Ely, and reared a considerable family, dying
+recently at Trenton, Illinois, a small town not far from St.
+Louis.--ED.
+
+[227] For the Omaha Indians see our volume v, p. 86, note 49.--ED.
+
+[228] Jean Pierre Cabann� was born in Pau, France, in 1773. After
+receiving good education he came to America--first to New Orleans,
+later to St. Louis, where he married (1797) Julie Gratiot, whose
+sister was the wife of Pierre Chouteau. For many years he was member
+of the firm of Chouteau and Pratte, thus acquiring an interest in the
+American Fur Company. The family home at St. Louis was the seat of a
+pleasant hospitality; but like many of the chief fur-traders, Cabann�
+spent part of each year in the Indian country, where he was head of
+the department centering near Council Bluffs. He left this post about
+the time of Maximilian's visit, owing to difficulty with a rival
+trader, Le Clerc, who had appealed to the courts. Cabann� died in St.
+Louis in 1841. His post was nine or ten miles by land above the
+present site of Omaha.--ED.
+
+[229] See p. 269, for illustration of an Omaha boy.--ED.
+
+[230] Not only these feather caps are pretty similar to those in
+Brazil, but also the chief instrument of the conjurors, or physicians
+(medicine men)--schischikue, as it is called--a calabash with a
+handle, in which there are small stones to rattle. The Omahas, and all
+the other North American tribes, use it exactly in the same manner as
+the Brazilians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[231] See p. 269, for illustration of an Omaha war-club.--ED.
+
+[232] See our volume xiv, pp. 288-321; and xv, pp. 11-136.--ED.
+
+[233] For Boyer River, see our volume xiv, p. 221, note 174.
+
+This fort at Council Bluffs was not on the site of the Iowa town of
+that name, but some miles higher up the river, on the Nebraska bank,
+near the village now known as Fort Calhoun, in Washington County. The
+name was first applied to the bluffs by Lewis and Clark, who held here
+(1804) an important council with chiefs of neighboring tribes. The
+United States post was built by a detachment under Colonel Henry
+Atkinson, when embarked on the famous Yellowstone expedition of 1819.
+The means of transportation proving inadequate, the troops never
+reached the Yellowstone, but formed at this point Camp Missouri, where
+during the winter of 1819-20 much sickness prevailed. The fort was
+finally christened Atkinson, for its founder, and was so known to the
+government. The local name was Fort Calhoun--whether in honor of the
+then secretary of war, or for a soldier who was the first to be here
+buried, is disputed. On the building of Fort Leavenworth, the troops
+were removed thither. See note 204, _ante_, p. 253.--ED.
+
+[234] For Blackbird, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, p. 86;
+Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our volume vi, pp. 81, 82; and James's
+_Long's Expedition_, in our volume xiv, pp. 315-320.--ED.
+
+[235] For Big Elk, see our volume v, p. 90, note 52; also xv, p. 320.
+
+Dr. John D. Godman (1794-1830) was a Marylander who in 1814
+participated in the defense of Fort McHenry. Later studying medicine,
+he was a professor of anatomy at several colleges, retiring finally to
+Germantown, Pennsylvania, where he devoted himself to scientific
+pursuits. His best known work was _American Natural History_
+(Philadelphia, 1828).
+
+By Horn River our author intends Elkhorn, for which see our volume
+xiv, p. 240, note 182.--ED.
+
+[236] For Floyd, see our volume v, p. 91, note 56; also _Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 114.--ED.
+
+[237] For the Big Sioux River, see our volume vi, p. 85, note 30. This
+branch of the Dakota (or Sioux), mentioned by Maximilian, is known as
+the Wahpekute, one of the two components of the Santee band of the
+Sioux. Together with the Mdewakantonwan or Spirit Lake band, they were
+the Sioux first known to Europeans, being designated by Hennepin as
+Issati. Their habitat was the upper waters of the Mississippi, and the
+St. Peter's (Minnesota) River. They wandered toward the Big Sioux
+River, which was made the boundary by the treaty of 1825 at Prairie du
+Chien--William Clark and Lewis Cass, commissioners. In this treaty the
+Big Sioux River is designated as the Calumet, probably because of the
+proximity of its source to the red pipestone quarries of southwestern
+Minnesota.--ED.
+
+[238] Iowa Creek, a small stream running nearly parallel to the
+Missouri in Dixon County, Nebraska. Lewis and Clark speak of the
+peculiar appearance of the bluff at this place, calling the creek
+"Rologe."--ED.
+
+[239] Wigwam is the name given to the Indian huts. The word comes from
+the Ojibua language, in which uikiuam signifies hut. This word has
+been corrupted, and applied by the whites to the habitations of all
+the Indian tribes.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[240] The James (or Dakota) River rises just south of Devil's Lake in
+Wells and Fargo counties, North Dakota, and flows nearly south into
+the Missouri. Its French name was Rivi�re � Jacques. Calumet Bluff is
+just above its mouth, nearly opposite Yankton, South Dakota. The term
+"Sego Island" does not occur in the Lewis and Clark text, nor has the
+name been preserved to the present day. They named White Bear Cliff
+for an animal of that kind killed in one of its holes. It was on the
+north bank, three or four miles above Yankton.--ED.
+
+[241] For Bernard Pratte, sr., see our volume xv, p. 193, note 71. In
+addition, these facts of his life may be stated. Born at Ste.
+Genevi�ve in 1772, he went to St. Louis when twenty-one years of age,
+and entered the fur-trade, marrying (1794) Emilie Labbadie, niece of
+Pierre Chouteau, sr. During the War of 1812-15, he was in command of
+an expedition which proceeded against Fort Madison; later was
+appointed territorial judge, and in Monroe's administration receiver
+of public moneys at St. Louis. He died April 1, 1836, respected by the
+entire community.
+
+Bernard Pratte, jr., was born in upper Louisiana, December 17, 1803.
+He was sent to Kentucky to be educated, and upon his return embarked
+in the fur-trade with his father. Being particularly interested in
+navigation, he went on the "Yellowstone's" early voyages, in this
+instance taking command of the "Assiniboine;" see his recollections in
+J. T. Scharf, _History of St. Louis_ (Philadelphia, 1883), i, p. 675.
+He was a member of the Missouri assembly in 1838, and mayor of St.
+Louis for two terms (1844-46). In 1850 he retired to a farm near
+Jonesboro', Montgomery County, where he died in 1887.--ED.
+
+[242] This name signifies "the smoker." The French Canadians generally
+call this chief Le Boucan, because smoke has that name among
+them.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ This Indian was also painted by Catlin. See
+Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, ii, p. 64.
+
+[243] The word Passitopa signifies the number "four." This brother of
+the chief is known from the circumstance of his having shot an Indian,
+who sought the life of a white man, who was his friend. Mr. Bodmer
+drew the portraits of the two brothers, which are very like. He has
+succeeded particularly in that of Shudegacheh.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[244] For this portrait which Maximilian calls "a good resemblance"
+see Plate 40, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[245] For the Ponca, and their present numbers, see our volume v, p.
+96, note 63.--ED.
+
+[246] Now known as Bazile Creek, in Knox County, Nebraska. It flows
+into the Missouri just east of Niobrara. Lewis and Clark called it
+White Paint Creek.--ED.
+
+[247] See Plate 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[248] In the portrait referred to in note 242, _ante_, the chief wears
+this medal on his breast. Similar medals were carried by Lewis and
+Clark; see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 363, note
+133.--ED.
+
+[249] See p. 269 for illustration of Ponca war-club.--ED.
+
+[250] Probably Charles Primeau, a fur-trader in the employ of the
+American Fur Company--later (1845), setting up in opposition to the
+company. Consult _Larpenteur's Journal_, i, p. 227.--ED.
+
+[251] See opposite page for illustration of Ponca Indians in buffalo
+robes.--ED.
+
+[252] The children of the North Americans resemble, in all respects,
+those of the Brazilians; I have mentioned the same circumstance of the
+Tapuyas of eastern Brazil, in the account of my travels in that
+country.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[253] For Manuel Lisa, see our volume v, p. 97, note 64. This creek,
+now called Emanuel, is in Bonhomme County, South Dakota, just above
+Springfield.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+VOYAGE FROM L'EAU QUI COURT TO FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON RIVER (THE
+LITTLE MISSOURI), AND STAY THERE, FROM MAY 13TH TO JUNE 4TH
+
+   Running-water River (l'eau qui court)--Punca Creek--Remarkable
+   Mountains--Cedar Island--Delay caused by the insufficient Depth
+   of the Water--First Sight of Buffaloes and Antelopes--Burning
+   Mountain--Black Strata of bituminous Coal--Bijoux Hills--Prairie
+   Dogs--Shannon, or Dry River--White River--Ruins of Cedar
+   Fort--Fort Look-out (Sioux Agency)--Visit to it--The Dacotas of
+   the Branch of the Yanktons--Wahktageli--Big Bend, or Grand
+   D�tour--Medicine Hills--Teton River--Fort Pierre--Stay
+   there--The Tetons, a branch of the Dacotas or Sioux.
+
+
+On the morning of the 13th of May, the Yellow Stone passed the mouth
+of the Running-water River (l'eau qui court),[254] when the
+thermometer was at 55�. The Assiniboin was before us. We reached the
+mouth of Punca Creek, which runs along the chain of hills obliquely to
+the Missouri. At the time when the Puncas separated from the Omahas,
+they built a kind of fort of earth, some miles up this river, which,
+however, they no longer occupy. There are said to be hot springs in
+the neighbourhood, such as are known to exist in several places on the
+banks of the Missouri.[255] Springs of any kind are, however, very
+rare in these dry prairies. In this neighbourhood are many villages
+of the prairie dogs (_Arctomys ludoviciana_, Ord.), in the abandoned
+burrows of which, rattlesnakes abound. It has been affirmed that these
+two species of animals live peaceably together in these burrows; but
+observers of nature have proved that the snakes take possession of
+abandoned burrows only, which is in the usual course of things. Deep
+[pg. 142] gullies traverse the summits of the banks, above which the
+turkey buzzards were hovering. On a sudden, three Punca Indians
+appeared and hailed us; they were wrapped in their buffalo skins, and
+carried their bows and arrows on their shoulders. One of them had a
+very singular appearance, having bound up the hair of his head, so
+that it stood quite upright. Though they made signs to us to take them
+on board, we did not stop, but renounced the pleasure of more closely
+observing these interesting people. The trees on the edge of the
+prairie, by which we passed, were old, thick, and low, with their
+summits depressed and cramped. They were the resort of the Carolina
+pigeon, which is found all along the banks of the river. The red
+cedars, in particular, were stunted and crippled, often thicker than a
+man's body in the trunk, and very frequently wholly withered. The
+swallows' nests--numbers of which were built against the steep
+banks--were not yet inhabited. We were unable, on account of the
+shallowness, to reach a fine grove of poplars on the right bank, and
+proceeded along the hills of the left bank, which were seventy or
+eighty feet in height, where the red cedar abounded, and we stopped to
+fell a number of these trees. A wild lateral ravine here opened to the
+Missouri, up the steep sides of which our wood-cutters climbed, and
+cut down the cedars, which were loaded with their black berries. The
+wood of this tree emits a very aromatic scent, and it is much used by
+the steam-boats for fuel, because it supplies a great deal of steam,
+and the berries, as we were told, are eaten by the Indians for
+certain medicinal purposes. At the bottom of the narrow ravine, there
+was a thicket of elm, cedar, bird-cherry, clematis, celtis, celastrus,
+vine, and other shrubs; and the neighbouring lofty verdant hills of
+the prairie produced many beautiful plants, among which was _Stanleya
+pinnatifida_, with its splendid long bunches of yellow flowers.
+Returning to our vessel, when the bell gave the signal for departure,
+we found one of the three Punca Indians whom we had seen in the
+morning. He had taken advantage of our slow progress to overtake us.
+His hair hung down to his shoulders, and was tied together in a queue.
+His countenance was good-natured and friendly; he wore a buffalo robe,
+had a bow and arrows on his back, and, in his hand, a large hussar
+sabre, which he had received as a present. Major Bean gave him some
+tobacco, powder, lead, and ball; and after he had satisfied his
+craving appetite he returned, well satisfied, to his comrades. In the
+afternoon the country was by no means attractive, rather flat, and not
+so verdant; our vessel sustained many violent shocks. The chain of
+hills, in the distance, appeared in more and more singular forms,
+partly resembling ramparts and batteries, and then again perfectly
+flat, like table-land. An isolated, round, conical eminence, which is
+called the Tower, stands on them.[256] On the bank were, again,
+singularly stunted woods and thickets, probably kept down by the cold
+winds of the prairie. The soil and the whole character of the country
+was changed; on the Lower Missouri it was a black mould, and very
+fertile. Cedars flourished here, growing to the height of forty or
+fifty feet, yet they were often withered, or, at least, many had dry
+branches on their summits.
+
+[pg. 143] On the following morning, the 14th, we had a very difficult
+navigation, and were even obliged to put back, so that the Assiniboin
+overtook and passed us, and we followed it up the river on the north
+bank, and afterwards landed forty men to lighten the vessel; ran
+happily over a sand bank, and again passed the Assiniboin. In the
+preceding year, the whole prairie was seen from the steamer to be
+covered with herds of buffaloes, but now there were no living
+creatures, except a few wild geese and ducks, which had likewise
+become scarce, since the termination of the great forest below the La
+Platte River. The monotony of this rude landscape was, however, soon
+interrupted by the appearance of a canoe, in which were four white men
+rowing down the river. A boat was speedily manned, into which Mr.
+Mc Kenzie and Mr. Sandford went, well armed, in order to speak to them,
+because they were supposed to be _engag�s_ of the Company who were
+deserting. We were informed by them, that the Arikkaras, a dangerous
+Indian tribe, had lately murdered three beaver hunters, one of whom
+was a man named Glass, well known in the country, of whom I shall have
+occasion to speak in the sequel.[257]
+
+Upon an island, to which we came, was a real wilderness; the beavers
+had formed a kind of abattis, by felling poplars; another island was
+remarkable because there is a hot spring opposite to it, on the main
+land, the water of which has no mineral taste. On the left bank, about
+five or six miles below Cedar Island, we observed the remains of
+Indian huts. Mr. Mc Kenzie had met here, in the preceding year, a camp
+of the Punca Indians. On the steep banks were coloured stripes, or
+regular strata; some black, doubtless bituminous coal, others reddish
+brown, and, in several places, burnt black. Some parts had burnt very
+lately, and, in many places, had fallen in. Unhappily we were not able
+more closely to examine these remarkable strata. We fastened the
+vessel for the night to the western coast; and the lightning was very
+brilliant.
+
+On the following day, the 15th of May, we saw in the thickets, behind
+which the prairie extended, many traces of an Indian camp; heads of
+elks, stags, and other animals, were scattered about; the marks of
+horses' feet were everywhere visible; and a practicable trodden path
+led through the thickets. At noon, when the thermometer was at 77�,
+the Assiniboin again passed us, and, with the keel-boat Maria,
+vanished from our sight. At four in the afternoon, we reached the
+place where we had stopped the preceding night, with the help of the
+keel-boat, which had returned, and at length succeeded in getting
+forward; but again had a storm of thunder and lightning. The whole
+country, beyond the banks, consisted of hills, rising one above the
+other; some covered with verdure, some of a yellowish colour, mostly
+without life and variety. While the lightning flashed from the dense
+black clouds, we again overtook the Assiniboin, which had landed its
+wood-cutters to fell some cedars on the steep mountain. We, too,
+landed 300 paces further up, to cut down cedars for fuel. At this
+place there was the narrow deep ravine of a small stream, now dry, in
+which we caught a pale yellow bat, and saw some snakes, and the
+scattered bones of buffaloes. We climbed from the bottom of the ravine
+up the singular [pg. 144] eminences of the prairie, and collected some
+interesting plants, particularly the wild turnip. Two species of
+cactus were not yet in blossom; they are, probably, not sufficiently
+known to botanists. One of them has been taken for the _Cactus
+opuntia_; and Captain Back,[258] too, says, that it is found on an
+island in the Lake of the Woods; but this is certainly not the
+above-named plant. On the highest elevation above the river, we
+enjoyed a remarkably fine prospect, while the sky was darkened by
+black thunder clouds. Around us was the amphitheatre of
+singularly-formed mountain-tops; at our feet lay the fine broad river,
+intersected by innumerable sand banks, which plainly showed us the
+difficulties of our navigation. On the banks, at so great a distance
+from the dwellings of civilized men, were two large vessels emitting
+volumes of steam. We were lost in the contemplation of this vast
+wilderness, when the bell summoned us on board. Our people had found a
+channel with five feet water, but it was so dark and foggy, that we
+were obliged to lie to early.
+
+On the following morning, the 16th of May, having passed a village of
+the prairie dogs, we reached, at nine o'clock, the Cedar Island, which
+is said to be 1,075 miles from the mouth of the Missouri.[259] On the
+steep banks of this long narrow island, which lies near the south-west
+bank, there were thickets of poplars, willows, and buffalo berry; the
+rest of the island is covered with a dark forest of red cedars, of
+which we immediately felled a good number. Their beautiful
+violet-coloured wood is traversed towards the edge by white veins, and
+is found very fit for ship-building. We crossed, with great pleasure,
+this wilderness of lofty cedars, the rough bark of which peels off of
+itself, and hangs down in long slips; many of them were withered,
+others broken and thrown down, or lying on the ground, covered with
+moss and lichens. The notes of numerous birds were heard in the gloom
+of this cedar forest, into which no ray of the sun could penetrate.
+Here, too, we found everywhere traces of the elks and stags, and saw
+where they had rubbed off the bark with their antlers. This may be
+considered as the limit to which the wild turkey extends on the
+Missouri. It is true that this bird is, now and then, found higher up,
+even on the Yellow Stone River; but these are exceptions, for beyond
+this place the woods are too open and exposed. The Indians, on the
+Upper Missouri, very readily barter for the tails of these fine birds,
+to use them as fans and ornaments, and Mr. Mc Kenzie, accordingly, took
+a good supply with him.
+
+On account of the high wind we were obliged to stop longer than we
+intended at Cedar Island, and took advantage of the delay to send out
+our hunters with their fowling-pieces. They brought back some birds,
+and a quadruped which was new to me. The wood-cutters had found, in a
+hollow tree, a nest of the large wood-rat, with four young ones. This
+fine animal has a tuft of hair at the end of its tail, and sometimes
+the whole tail is covered with hair. In colour and shape it resembles
+our Norway rat, and has not yet been mentioned as found on the
+Missouri, unless a couple of passages in Lewis and Clarke's Travels,
+which say, "very large rats were found here," refer to it.
+
+[pg. 145] On the morning of the 17th we saw the first antelopes, or
+cabris, half a dozen of which fled over the hills, but at so great a
+distance that we could not well distinguish them; we, however,
+subsequently had the pleasure of seeing one of these animals stop so
+long on the summit of the bank that we could very plainly observe it
+nearer at hand. It gazed for a long time at the steamer, appeared to
+be alarmed, trotted away, then stopped again, and disappeared behind
+the hills. The antelope becomes more and more common in this part of
+the country, and we saw several to-day, but the wishes of our hunters
+were disappointed. The Indians use the skin of these animals for
+clothing, but they are not very eager in the chase of the antelope,
+except where the buffalo is scarce. As, on sounding the channel, only
+four feet of water were found, the steamer was moored to the bank, and
+we took our fowling-pieces. With difficulty we penetrated through the
+thickets of poplar and willow on the bank, where the large tracks of
+the elks and of the Virginian deer were everywhere deeply imprinted in
+the soft soil. We then reached the prairie, which is perfectly level,
+and extends for 300 or 400 paces to the hills. It was covered with
+high grass, and clusters of many different plants. Our people
+traversed the prairies in all directions, looking for the pomme
+blanche, which was very common. Near the thickets we saw the pretty
+Carolina pigeon, seeking its food on the ground, but, when we
+approached, all the birds immediately flew out of the prairie, and
+sought refuge in the recesses of the thickets. We had a fine,
+starlight, cool evening.
+
+On the 18th we saw the first buffaloes that we had met with on this
+voyage. Several of our hunters were immediately landed to pursue them.
+They ascended into a ravine, and disappeared behind the hills. We also
+landed, at noon, when the thermometer was at 68�. Beyond the thickets
+on the bank, there were some old isolated trees in the prairie, in
+which, as well as in the tall plants, bushes, and grass, there were
+numerous birds. During the day, the mosquitoes (_Tipula_) were so
+troublesome in the wood, that we could scarcely load our pieces; it is
+said that, in the height of summer, this nuisance is still more
+intolerable. The buffalo hunters returned to the vessel at the same
+time with us; they had, indeed, missed their object, but had killed a
+large buck antelope, as well as a great many prairie dogs, the heads
+of which were all mutilated by the rifle balls. As these little
+animals retreat to their burrows, on the approach of any strange
+object, and only put out their heads, the Americans, with their long
+rifles, generally hit them in this part: they are a favourite food
+among them. Our men brought back the skin and the head, as well as the
+flesh of the antelope which they had killed: they likewise brought me
+a fine grey eagle and a serpent (_Col. eximus_). The river being so
+shallow, we were not able to proceed on the following day, and
+continued our excursions on shore. I often passed my time in the lofty
+and shady forest which extended beyond the willow thickets on the
+banks, at the border of the open prairie. Sitting on an old trunk, in
+the cool shade, I could observe at leisure the surrounding scene. I
+saw the turkey buzzards, that hovered above the hills, contending
+against the high wind, while a couple of falcons frequently made a
+stoop at them, doubtless to defend [pg. 146] their nest. A couple of
+ravens likewise flew about them. The red-eyed finch, the beautiful
+_Sylvia �stiva_, the _Sylvia striata_, and the wren, flew around me,
+the latter singing very prettily. If I passed beyond the prairie
+hills, I found the ground, on the long-extended ridge, covered with
+the blue flowers of the _Oxitropis Lamberti_ (Pursh.), which grew in
+tufts about a foot high. There, too, I saw dens of the foxes and
+wolves. I saw a fine bird which we had not before met with, namely,
+the prairie hen (_Tetrao phasianellus_), a pair of which rose before
+me, and of which I first shot the cock. These birds are found in
+considerable numbers from this place up to the Rocky Mountains. In the
+daytime we suffered great heat in these excursions, while there was
+also a high wind, and the ground was hard and dry; the soles of our
+shoes became so polished on this ground and the hard dry grass, that
+it was difficult and fatiguing to walk on the slopes. We were forced
+to remain here many days, because the water was very shallow, and,
+during this time, we had several violent thunder-storms. It is a
+peculiarity of this part of the country that, in spring, rain, storms,
+and tempests prevail, while the summer and autumn are, in general,
+very dry. All the small streams in the extensive prairies then dry up,
+and there is a general want of water, except in the vicinity of the
+large rivers.
+
+On the 21st of May it was so cool that we were obliged to have fires
+in the cabins; the river had risen a little, and we endeavoured to
+proceed. Captain Pratte, of the Assiniboin, came on board with a man
+named May, a beaver hunter, who had left Fort Union, on the Yellow
+Stone, in March. He confirmed the account of the murder of the three
+men by the Arikkaras, and added the still more alarming intelligence,
+that thirteen of the Company's _engag�s_ had been killed by the
+Blackfoot Indians. He said that the herds of buffaloes had left the
+Missouri, and had been followed by the Sioux Indians, so that we must
+expect to see only a few of them on the river. The keel-boat of the
+Assiniboin had taken part of our cargo on board on the 22nd, and, as
+there was rather more depth of water, the Yellow Stone had been got
+afloat, after a delay of five days in this shallow place. We happened
+to be on the hills when the bell summoned us on board, and hastened as
+quickly as possible to the bank, but came too late, and were compelled
+to follow the vessel for a couple of hours, clambering over fragments
+of stone, pieces of rock, to creep through thickets full of thorns and
+burrs, or to wade through morasses; and not till eleven o'clock did
+we get on board. The hills on both sides of the river were of singular
+forms; some of them were crowned with rocks resembling ancient towers
+and ruins. The eminences had some dark spots, caused by black shining
+strata of coal. Many of these strata had been on fire, and one of them
+was extinguished only last year, after having burnt more than three
+years. Such a thick stratum of bituminous coal ran in a well-defined
+stripe on both sides of the river, at an equal elevation, along all
+the hills, as far as the eye could reach; and it is not difficult to
+follow this stratum for many hundred miles; it is only interrupted, at
+intervals, by ravines. Some lofty hills, hereabouts, are called Bijoux
+Hills, after a person of that name, who resided here many years.[260]
+[pg. 147] The next morning we found the Assiniboin at the foot of these
+hills. Our steamer could not be moved till noon, and then did not
+proceed far, but lay to near a sand bank. On the morning of the 24th,
+Major Bean left us, accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, to go by land to Sioux
+Agency, or Fort Lookout, where he intended to wait for us. He had
+procured saddle-horses from that place. As we expected the keel-boat,
+to lighten the ship, we had time to go ashore and make an excursion
+inland. At eleven o'clock the bell summoned us to return. The vessel
+was made to drop about 2,000 paces down the river, and then, with much
+exertion, to proceed along the north-east bank, where we found the
+Maria keel-boat, which had likewise run aground, but had been got
+afloat by its crew, who laboured up to their waists in water, while
+the people were lightening our steamer. Mr. Mc Kenzie and myself went
+on shore to explore the neighbouring eminences, where we found many
+rare plants. The geology and mineralogy of these hills are likewise
+interesting. The surface consists of clay of various colours, partly
+resembling lithomarge; plates and fragments of foliated gypsum were
+scattered around, and seemed to stand out in the clay. When we reached
+the bare sterile heights which belong to the black burnt
+stratifications, I found the soil quite different from what it had
+appeared to me when I looked at it from below. The whole consists of a
+clay, which has undergone the effects of fire, and is partly burnt
+black on the surface. We saw no living creatures on these bare
+heights, except the finch (_Fringilla grammaca_), first described by
+Say. Several caves or dens of wolves, foxes, and marmots, were
+observed in the declivities of the hills. Between four and five
+o'clock, the keel-boat having been sent on before, the Yellow Stone
+proceeded along the northeast bank. Near the Shannon, or Dry River,
+the sun sank behind the poplar wood on the bank, and we lay to for the
+night. From the Shannon, the mouth of which is on the west side, the
+territory of the Sioux nations is reckoned to extend up the Missouri.
+On the east bank, as I have observed, it begins much sooner.
+
+At five o'clock, on the following morning, the 25th of May, we had
+already reached the White River,[261] and at noon came to a place
+where the Cedar Fort, a trading post of the Missouri Fur Company, had
+formerly stood. When the Company was dissolved, this and other
+settlements were abandoned, and demolished by the Indians.[262]
+Directly opposite, on the east bank, a stratum of earth burnt till
+1823, in consequence of which a large portion of a hill fell, and now
+stands isolated before the bank; it is seventy or eighty feet high,
+and 150 feet long. In the course of the day we came to a place where
+an Arikkara village had formerly stood, on the ridge of the hills,
+which was destroyed by the Sioux, and the inhabitants expelled.
+Opposite to this was Fort Lookout, where the French Fur Trading
+Company had a post. A little further up the river we saw, on the
+hills, some burying-places of the Sioux Indians; most of them were
+formed of a high platform, on four stakes, on which the corpse, sewn
+up in skins, lies at full length; others consisted of stakes and
+brushwood, like a kind of hedge, in the middle of which the deceased
+is buried in the ground. We were told that the son of a chief was
+buried in one of the latter, in a [pg. 148] standing posture. On a point
+of land, at the left hand, round which the Missouri turns to the west,
+we saw the buildings of Sioux Agency; the Yellow Stone saluted the
+post with several guns, and was welcomed to the fort by the hoisting
+of a flag, while the whole population, about fifty in number, chiefly
+consisting of Sioux Indians, were assembled on the beach. We greeted
+our friends Major Bean and Mr. Bodmer, and proceeded a mile further,
+to an extensive forest, where we took in wood, and stopped for the
+night. In order to get acquainted with the Sioux, in whom I took so
+much interest, I returned, in a heavy rain, through the bushes and
+high grass, to the agency, where Major Bean received me very kindly,
+though his dwelling, according to the fashion of the place, was rudely
+constructed, and he was incommoded by too many visitors.
+
+Sioux Agency, or, as it is now usually called, Fort Lookout, is a
+square, of about sixty paces, surrounded by pickets, twenty or thirty
+feet high, made of squared trunks of trees, placed close to each
+other, within which the dwellings are built close to the palisades.
+These dwellings consisted of only three block-houses, with several
+apartments. Close to the fort, in a northern direction, the Fur
+Company of Mr. Soublette had a dwelling-house, with a store; and, in
+the opposite direction, was a similar post of the American Fur
+Company.[263] The fort is agreeably situated on a green spot, near the
+river, partly covered with bushes, and partly open, bounded by hills,
+beyond which the prairie extends, first, with a few old trees, and
+some wooded spots, but soon assuming its peculiar bare character.
+About ten leather tents or huts of the Sioux, of the branch of the
+Yanktons or Yanktoans, were set up near the fort.[264]
+
+The Dacotas, as they call themselves, or the Sioux of the French,
+called by the Ojibuas or Chippeways, Nandoesi (which has been
+corrupted into Nadowassis), are still one of the most numerous Indian
+tribes in North America. Pike stated their number at 21,575 souls, and
+they are still reckoned at 20,000; nay, some even affirm, that they
+are still able to furnish 15,000 warriors, which seems rather too high
+an estimate. Major Long, who gives much information respecting this
+people, calculates their number at 28,100, of which 7,055 are
+warriors, the nation possessing 2,330 tents, which agrees pretty
+nearly with the statements we received on the Missouri. If we add the
+Assiniboins, who are of the same origin, and who are estimated at
+28,000, we shall have for all the Dacotas, 56,100 souls, of whom
+14,055 are warriors, and the number of their tents 5,330. Major Long
+is of opinion that they cannot be calculated at less than 25,000
+souls, and 6,000 warriors; 20,000 is, therefore, not too high an
+estimate.
+
+The territory which they inhabit extends from Big Sioux River, between
+the Missouri and the Mississippi, down the latter to Rock River, and
+northwards to Elk River; then westwards, in a line which includes the
+sources of St. Peter's River, and reaches the Missouri below the
+Mandan villages, stretches down it, crosses it near Heart River, and
+includes the whole country on the western bank, to the Black Hills
+about Teton River, as far as Shannon River. The Sioux are divided into
+several branches, which all speak the same language, with some
+deviations. [pg. 149] Three principal branches live on the Missouri,
+viz., the Yanktons, or Yanktoans, the Tetons, or Titoans, and the
+Yanktonans, or Yanktoanons. The Mende-Wakan-Toann, or the people of
+the Spirit Lake, and some others, live on the Mississippi. All these
+branches together are, as Major Long says, divided by the traders into
+two great classes--the Gens du Lac and the Gens du Large; _i.e._,
+those who live near the Spirit Lake, and are now chiefly found on the
+banks of the Mississippi, and those who roam about in the prairies.
+The Yanktoanons are said to constitute one-fifth of all the Dacotas,
+and the Tetons the half of the whole nation.[265]
+
+The Dacotas roam as far as the territory of the Puncas, over the Black
+Hills, to the Arkansa, and westwards to the Rocky Mountains, into the
+territory of the Crows, on the Yellow Stone River, &c. Pike makes
+them, as well as the Pawnees, descend from the Tartars; but many
+objections may be made to this notion, as the affinity of the North
+Americans and the people of Asia is not proved, and the resemblance
+between them appears to be very limited. In general, these Indians
+have more strongly-marked countenances and higher cheek-bones than
+many other tribes on the Missouri, nor are their features so regular
+or pleasing, yet there is no considerable difference in their
+physiognomy. Bradbury says they are much inferior in stature to the
+Osages, Mandans, and Puncas, and by no means so robust; but this
+assertion must be very much restricted, because there are many tall
+men among the Dacotas. The Yanktons live in Sioux Agency, or the
+furthest down the Missouri, among which tribe we now were. All these
+Dacotas of the Missouri, as well as most of those of the Mississippi,
+are only hunters, and, in their excursions, always live in portable
+leather tents. Only two branches of them are exceptions to this rule,
+especially the Wahch-Pe-Kutch, on the Mississippi, who cultivate maize
+and other plants, and therefore live in fixed villages. All these
+Indians have great numbers of horses and dogs, the latter of which
+often serve them as food. The Dacotas, on the Missouri, were formerly
+dangerous enemies to the Whites. Bradbury calls them blood-thirsty
+savages; whereas now, with the exception of the Yanktonans, they bear
+a very good character, and constantly keep peace with the Whites. Pike
+seems to have too high an idea of their valour; at least, this is the
+opinion now entertained on the Missouri. Such of these Indians as
+reside near the Whites, are frequently connected with them by
+marriages, and depend on them for support. They then become negligent
+hunters, indolent, and, consequently, poor. This was partly the case
+at Sioux Agency, where they rarely possessed more than two horses. One
+of the most considerable men among them, wholly devoted to the Whites,
+was Wahktageli, called the Big Soldier, a tall, good-looking man,
+about sixty years of age, with a high aquiline nose, and large
+animated eyes. Besides him, there were several elderly, and some
+slender young men of this nation, here. They had, in general, a rather
+narrow, oval countenance, narrow, long eyes, and aquiline, or
+straight, well-formed noses; their colour was a dark brown. They wore
+their hair hanging down long over the shoulders, and often plaited _en
+queue_; the older men, however, let it hang loosely, cut off a little
+below the [pg. 150] neck, and turned back from the forehead. Younger
+people generally wore it parted, a large lock hanging down on the
+nose; young men had the upper part of the body only wrapped in their
+large white or painted buffalo hides. They had long strings of blue
+and white wampum shells in their ears; some of them wore one, two, or
+three feathers, which were partly stripped till towards the
+point.[266]
+
+  [Illustration: Method of wearing hair]
+
+Mr. Bodmer having expressed a wish, immediately on the arrival of the
+Big Soldier, to paint his portrait at full length, he appeared in his
+complete state dress. His face was painted red with vermilion, and
+with short, black, parallel, transverse stripes on the cheeks. On his
+head he wore long feathers of birds of prey, which were tokens of his
+warlike exploits, particularly of the enemies he had slain. They were
+fastened in a horizontal position with strips of red cloth. In his
+ears he wore long strings of blue glass beads, and, on his breast,
+suspended from his neck, the great silver medal of the United States.
+His leather leggins, painted with dark crosses and stripes, were very
+neatly ornamented with a broad embroidered stripe of yellow, red, and
+sky-blue figures, consisting of dyed porcupine quills, and his shoes
+were adorned in the same manner. His buffalo robe was tanned white,
+and he had his tomahawk or battle-axe in his hand.[267] He appeared to
+stand very willingly as a [pg. 151] model for Mr. Bodmer, and remained
+the whole day in the position required, which, in general, the Indians
+find it difficult to do. The remainder of these people were now
+entirely without ornaments, naked, and the upper parts of their
+bodies not at all painted, but only wrapped in their buffalo robes. On
+their backs they carried their quivers, which were made of leather, in
+which their arrows are kept; they carry their bows in their
+hands.[268]
+
+  [Illustration: Bows, arrows, and quiver]
+
+The features of the women resembled, on the whole, those we have
+already described, yet their faces, for the most part, were not so
+broad and flat as those of the Saukies, or Musquake women, and some
+were even pretty. The tents of the Sioux are high pointed cones, made
+of strong poles, covered with buffalo skins, closely sewed together.
+These skins are scraped on both sides, so that they become as
+transparent as parchment, and give free admission to the light. At the
+top, where the poles meet, or cross each other, there is an opening,
+to let out the smoke, which they endeavour to close by a piece of the
+skin covering of the tent, fixed to a separate pole standing upright,
+and fastened to the upper part of the covering on the side from which
+the wind blows. The door is a slit, in the front of the tent, which is
+generally closed by another piece of buffalo hide, stretched upon a
+frame.[269] A small fire is kept up in the centre of the tent. Poles
+are stuck in the ground, near the tent, and utensils of various kinds
+are suspended from them. There are, likewise, stages, on which to hang
+the newly-tanned hides; others, with gaily-painted parchment pouches
+and bags,[270] on some of which they hang their bows, arrows, quivers,
+leather shields, spears, and war clubs.
+
+  [Illustration: Tents of the Sioux]
+
+We paid a visit to Wahktageli in his tent, and had some difficulty in
+creeping into the narrow, low entrance, after pulling aside the skin
+that covered it. The inside of this tent was [pg. 152] light, and it was
+about ten paces in diameter. Buffalo skins were spread on the ground,
+upon which we sat down. Between us and the side of the tent were a
+variety of articles, such as pouches, boxes, saddles, arms, &c. A
+relation of the chief was employed in making arrows, which were
+finished very neatly, and with great care. Wahktageli immediately,
+with much gravity, handed the tobacco-pipe round, and seemed to inhale
+the precious smoke with great delight. His wife was present; their
+children were married. The conversation was carried on by Cephier, the
+interpreter kept by the Agency, who accompanied us on this visit. It
+is the custom with all the North American Indians, on paying a visit,
+to enter in perfect silence, to shake hands with the host, and
+unceremoniously sit down beside him. Refreshments are then presented,
+which the Big Soldier could not do, as he himself stood in need of
+food. After this the pipe circulates. The owner of a neighbouring tent
+had killed a large elk, the skin of which the women were then busily
+employed in dressing. They had stretched it out, by means of leather
+straps, on the ground near the tent, and the women were scraping off
+the particles of flesh and fat with a very well-contrived instrument.
+It is made of bone, sharpened at one end, and furnished with little
+teeth like a saw, and, at the other end, a strap, which is fastened
+round the wrist. The skin is scraped with the sharp side of this
+instrument till it is perfectly clean.[271] Several Indians have iron
+teeth fixed to this bone. Besides this operation, we took particular
+notice of the harness of the dogs and horses, hanging up near the
+tent, both these animals being indispensable to the Indians to
+transport their baggage on their journeys. Even the great tent, with
+many long, heavy poles, is carried by horses, as well as the
+semi-globular, transparent wicker panniers, under which the little
+children are protected against sun and rain, by spreading blankets and
+skins over them. Smaller articles are conveyed by the dogs, as we
+shall relate in the sequel. Many of the Sioux are rich, and have
+twenty or more horses, which they obtained originally from the
+Spaniards on the Mississippi, and the frontier of New Mexico on the
+Oregon, but which are now found in great numbers among the several
+Indian nations. One of their most important employments is to steal
+horses, and the theft of one of these animals, from another nation, is
+considered as an exploit, and as much, nay more honoured than the
+killing of an enemy. The dogs, whose flesh is eaten by the Sioux, are
+equally valuable to the Indians. In shape they differ very little from
+the wolf, and are equally large and strong. Some are of the real wolf
+colour; others black, white, or spotted with black and white, and
+differing only by the tail being rather more turned up. Their voice is
+not a proper barking, but a howl, like that of the wolf, and they
+partly descend from wolves, which approach the Indian huts, even in
+the daytime, and mix with the dogs.
+
+Among the peculiar customs of the Sioux is their treatment of the
+dead. Those who die [pg. 153] at home are sewed up, as I have before
+stated, in blankets and skins, in their complete dress, painted, and
+laid with their arms and other effects on a high stage, supported by
+four poles, till they are decomposed, when they are sometimes buried.
+Those who have been killed in battle are immediately interred on the
+spot. Sometimes, too, in times of peace, they bury their dead in the
+ground, and protect them against the wolves by a fence of wood and
+thorns. There were many such graves in the vicinity of the Sioux
+Agency, among which was that of the celebrated chief, Tschpunka, who
+was buried with his full dress and arms, and his face painted red.
+Very often, however, they lay their dead in trees; and we saw, in the
+neighbourhood of this place, an oak, in which there were three bodies
+wrapped in skins. At the foot of the tree there was a small arbour, or
+shed, made of branches of poplar, which the relations had built for
+the purpose of coming to lament and weep over the dead, which they
+frequently do for several days successively. As a sign of mourning,
+they cut off their hair with the first knife that comes to hand, daub
+themselves with white clay, and give away all their best clothes and
+valuable effects, as well as those of the deceased, to the persons who
+happen to be present. The corpse of a young woman had been enveloped
+in skins about a week before, and placed between the branches of the
+oak, with six pieces of wood under it; and a little higher in the tree
+there was a child. Guided by the obliging interpreter, we viewed
+everything remarkable in the Sioux agency, which, indeed, is confined
+to the Indians and their mode of life. Major Bean had the kindness to
+accommodate us for the night.
+
+We passed the 26th of May here, when Mr. Bodmer finished his very
+capital likeness of Wahktageli. The elk, killed by the Indians,
+furnished us with fresh meat, and we considered ourselves very well
+off. In the afternoon, Messrs. Mc Kenzie and Sandford came from the
+Yellow Stone to visit us, and we returned on board in the evening.
+
+The following morning (27th) was cool, windy, and cloudy, and, at
+half-past seven, the thermometer at only 54�. It was so cold that we
+had fires in our cabins the whole day. Major Bean had the courtesy to
+present me with the complete dress of the Big Soldier, an interesting
+_souvenir_ of the friendly reception we had met with in his house. The
+Assiniboin passed us rapidly in the afternoon, and we followed. A
+well-known Sioux chief, called Tukan Haton, and, by the Americans, the
+Little Soldier, was on board with his family, intending to accompany
+us to Fort Pi�rre, on the Teton River. These Indians were in mourning
+for some of their relations lately deceased; their dress was,
+therefore, as bad as possible, and their faces daubed with white clay.
+The Big Soldier also paid us a visit previous to our departure. He had
+no feathers on his head, but only a piece of red cloth. After
+receiving some food he took leave, and we saw the grotesque, tall
+figure stand for a long time motionless on the beach. As the vessel
+proceeded very quickly, our Indians laid down their heads as a sign
+that they were giddy, but they were soon relieved, as the water became
+shallow. We lay to not far above the stream which [pg. 154] Lewis and
+Clarke call the Three Rivers.[272] Here we again had leisure to make
+an excursion in the wood, where the ground was covered with pea vine
+(_Apios tuberosa_),[273] and a plant resembling convallaria. The
+Carolina pigeon was frequent here, and was sought after by our people
+for their dinner, to which the river contributed some cat-fish, of the
+usual olive-brown kind. Our Indians kindled their fire in the
+neighbouring wood, and lay around it, but soon returned to the vessel.
+
+Early on the 28th, part of the goods had been put into the keel-boat,
+to lighten the steamer, which was accomplished by eight o'clock. From
+this place to the Big Bend of the Missouri is fifteen miles, before
+reaching which we came to an island, which has been formed since Lewis
+and Clarke were there. The same stratum of coal, which I have before
+mentioned, ran along the hills, and was visible at a great distance.
+We soon overtook the Assiniboin, and reached the Big Bend which the
+Missouri takes round a flat point of land; following the course of
+the river, it is twenty-five miles round, while the isthmus is only
+one mile and a half across.[274] The large peninsula, round which the
+Missouri turns, is flat, and bordered with poplars and willows; the
+opposite bank is higher, steep, and bare. A couple of antelopes were,
+in this place, frightened by the noise of our steamer; these animals
+are said to be very numerous here in the winter time. The Little
+Soldier sat by the fireside, smoking his pipe, in doing which, like
+all the Indians, he inhaled the smoke, a custom which is, doubtless,
+the cause of many pectoral diseases. The tobacco, which the Indians of
+this part of the country smoke, is called kini-kenick, and consists of
+the inner green bark of the red willow, dried, and powdered, and mixed
+with the tobacco of the American traders. According to Say, they also
+smoke the leaves of the arrow-wood (_Viburnum_), when they have none
+of the bark.
+
+On the 29th, we were nearly at the end of the Big Bend, and stopped,
+at seven o'clock in the morning, to cut down cedars. Here we ascended
+the lofty, steep hills, which were partly bare, and burnt black, and
+from which we had a view of the whole bend of the river. To the south,
+we saw the tops of the Medicine Hills, which are about eight miles
+from the Medicine Creek, on the west bank.[275] Towards noon there
+appeared, on the western bank, steep, rocky walls, and, behind them,
+singularly-formed hills, some resembling pyramids, others, round
+towers, &c. At this place we suddenly espied a canoe, with four men
+in it, which touched at a sand bank; a boat was put out, and brought
+back two of the strangers, who proved to be Mr. Lamont, a member of
+the Fur Company, and Major Mitchell, one of their officers, and
+Director of Fort Mc Kenzie, which is situated near the falls of the
+Missouri.[276] They came last from Fort Pi�rre, and were on their way
+to St. Louis, but we persuaded them to return with us. Having taken in
+[pg. 155] wood on the morning of the 30th, we came to a leather tent on
+the bank, in which three of the Company's _engag�s_ and some Indians
+lived, to take care of 100 horses, belonging to Fort Pi�rre. They had
+lately killed three antelopes, and gave us some of the fresh meat. At
+seven o'clock we had, on the right hand, Simoneau's Island, which, in
+Lewis and Clarke's map, is called Elk Island; it was covered with
+lofty, green poplars.[277] Soon after twelve o'clock we came to a
+plantation, made by the inhabitants of Fort Pi�rre, where we found
+about ten men, who had got ready a great quantity of fine stack wood
+for our vessel. At this place, which is only three miles from the
+fort, we observed hills, of a singular form, often cleft
+perpendicularly, and, in the river, several islands, all of which have
+now different names from those given to them by Lewis and Clarke.
+Before six, in the evening, we reached the mouth of the Teton River,
+or the Little Missouri, which the Sioux call the Bad River. It rises
+in the Black Hills, and has a long course, with many windings; but is
+said, however, to be straight for 150 miles from the mouth. In this
+part of the Missouri are vast sand banks, on which we saw a numerous
+flock of pelicans. These birds, however, only stop here on their
+passage, and do not build their nests. The river is very wide at the
+mouth of the Teton, and has extensive low prairies, with a border of
+poplars and willows. The French Fur Company had formerly a fort just
+above the mouth of the Teton, which was abandoned when the Companies
+joined, and another built further up, which was called Fort Teton;
+this, too, was abandoned;[278] and Fort Pi�rre (so called after Mr.
+Pi�rre Chouteau) was erected higher up, on the west bank, opposite an
+island.[279]
+
+The steamer had proceeded a little further, when we came in sight of
+the Fort, to the great joy of all on board: the colours were hoisted,
+both on the steamer and on the fort, which produced a very good effect
+between the trees on the bank; a small village, consisting of thirteen
+Sioux tents, lay on the left hand. Our steamer first began to salute
+with its cannon, which was returned from the shore by a running fire
+of musketry, and this was answered from our deck by a similar very
+brisk fire. Before we reached the landing-place, we perceived an
+isolated, decayed old house, the only remains of Fort Tecumseh,[280]
+and, ten minutes afterwards, landed at Fort Pi�rre, on the fifty-first
+day of our voyage from St. Louis. A great crowd came to welcome us; we
+were received by the whole population, consisting of some hundred
+persons, with the white inhabitants at their head, the chief of whom
+was Mr. Laidlow, a proprietor of the Fur Company, who has the
+management at this place.[281] There were many Indians among them, who
+had done their part to welcome us by firing their muskets, which they
+carried in their hands. There seemed to be no end of shaking hands; a
+thousand questions were asked, and the latest news, on both sides, was
+eagerly sought for. Mr. Fontenelle, who was to undertake a journey to
+the Rocky Mountains, was already here, having performed the journey,
+on horseback, in eleven days. As soon as we set foot on land, we
+proceeded, accompanied by numbers of persons, to the Fort, to which
+there is a straight road of about a quarter of a mile. We put up at
+Mr. Laidlow's house, where we rested beside a good fire.
+
+  [Illustration: Plan of Fort Pierre]
+
+[pg. 156] Fort Pi�rre is one of the most considerable settlements of the
+Fur Company on the Missouri, and forms a large quadrangle, surrounded
+by high pickets,[282] round which the buildings stand in the manner
+already described. At the north-east and south-west corners there are
+block-houses, with embrasures, _f_, _f_, the fire of which commands
+the curtain; the upper story is adapted for small arms, and the lower
+for some cannon; each side of the quadrangle is 108 paces in length;
+the front and back, _g_, _g_, each 114 paces; the inner space
+eighty-seven paces in diameter. From the roof of the block-houses,
+which is surrounded with a gallery, there is a fine prospect over the
+prairie; and there is a flag-staff on the roof, on which the colours
+are hoisted. The timber for this fort was felled from forty to sixty
+miles up the river, and floated down, because none fit for the purpose
+was to be had in the neighbourhood. Mr. Laidlow's dwelling-house, _d_,
+_d_, consisted of one story only, but was very conveniently arranged,
+with large rooms, fire-places, and glass windows. Next this house was
+a smaller building, _e_, for the office and the residence of a clerk.
+The other clerks, the interpreters for the different Indian nations,
+the _engag�s_ and their families, altogether above 100 persons, lived
+in the other buildings, _a_, _a_, _a_, _a_. Opposite, in _c_, _c_,
+were the stores, at that time of the value of 80,000 dollars; and in
+other rooms, the furs obtained from the Indians by barter. The fort
+has two large doors, _g_, _g_, opposite each other, which are shut in
+the evening; in _b_ there was an enclosed piece of garden ground. The
+situation of the settlement is agreeable; the verdant prairie is very
+extensive, animated by herds of cattle and horses; of the latter, Fort
+Pi�rre possessed 150, and of the former, thirty-six, which afforded a
+sufficient supply of milk and fresh butter. Indians, on foot and on
+horseback, were scattered all over the plain, and their singular
+stages for the dead were in great numbers near the Fort; immediately
+behind which, the leather tents of the Sioux Indians, of the branches
+of the Tetons and the Yanktons, stood, like a little village; among
+them the most distinguished was the tent of the old interpreter,
+Dorion, a half Sioux, who is mentioned by many travellers, and resides
+here with his Indian family.[283] This tent was large, and painted
+red; at the top of the poles composing [pg. 157] it some scalps
+fluttered in the wind. A great number of Indian dogs surrounded this
+village, which did not differ from those we have already described.
+Many of them were perfectly similar to the wolf in form, size, and
+colour; they did not bark, but showed their teeth when any one
+approached them.
+
+Near the fort we roused, in the thickets, a Virginian deer, and saw
+wolves, in the middle of the day, prowling about in the prairies; but
+we could not get near them, and fired at them in vain with our rifles.
+Round an isolated tree in the prairie I observed a circle of holes in
+the ground, in which thick poles had stood. A number of buffalo skulls
+were piled up there; and we were told that this was a medicine, or
+charm, contrived by the Indians in order to entice the herds of
+buffaloes. Everywhere in the plain we saw circles of clods of earth,
+with a small circular ditch, where the tents of many Indians had
+stood. This time we visited the Indian tents uninvited; in that which
+we first entered there were several tall, good-looking men assembled;
+the owner of the tent was a man of middle-size; his complexion very
+light, and his features agreeable. His wives were dressed very neatly,
+and were remarkably clean, especially the one who appeared to be the
+principal; she wore a very elegant leather dress, with stripes and
+borders of azure and white beads, and polished metal buttons, and
+trimmed as usual at the bottom with fringes, round the ends of which
+lead is twisted, so that they tinkle at every motion. Her summer robe,
+which was dressed smooth on both sides, was painted red and black, on
+a yellowish white ground.[284] She estimated all these articles of
+dress very highly. Among the effects piled up inside the tent, there
+were several interesting things, such as cradles for the infants,
+viz., ornamented boards, to which they are fastened with broad
+leathern straps, one passing over the head, and the other over the
+middle of the body. The workmanship of these leathern straps was
+remarkably neat and curious; for instance, they were entirely covered
+with a ground of milk-white porcupine quills, on which figures of men,
+of a vermilion colour, and black figures of dogs, and other similar
+patterns, were most tastefully embroidered, and all of the most lively
+and well-chosen colours. After we had conversed with the men, the pipe
+circulated. The pipes of [pg. 158] the Dacotas are very beautiful,[285]
+in truth the most beautiful of all the North American Indians, which
+they make, in various forms, of the red indurated clay, or stone.[286]
+
+  [Illustration: Dakota pipes]
+
+The pipe has a long, flat, broad wooden tube, which is ornamented with
+tufts of horse-hair, dyed red, yellow, or green, and wound round with
+strings of porcupine quills of divers colours. We looked at the women
+as they were at work. For the shoes which they made they had softened
+the leather in a tub of water, and stretched it in the breadth and
+length with their teeth. In the middle of the hut was a fire, over
+which the kettle was suspended by a wooden hook; they now all use iron
+kettles, which they obtain from the traders. Before most of the tents
+poles were placed, leaning against each other, to which gaily-painted
+parchment pouches were hung, and likewise the medicine-bags, as they
+are called, in which the medicine, or charms, are preserved, and which
+they open and consult only on solemn or important occasions, such as
+campaigns and the like. Here, too, were suspended the bow and quiver
+of arrows, spears, and a round shield of thick leather, with a thin
+cover, also of the same material. In another tent the women were
+dressing the skins, either with a pumice-stone, or with the
+before-described toothed instrument, which was here entirely of iron.
+They then pulled the skin over a line, in all directions, backwards
+and forwards, to make it pliable.
+
+The Sioux at Fort Pi�rre were in general slender, sometimes
+muscular-men, of middling stature, though some of them were tall.
+They had oval faces, with prominent cheek-bones, slightly-curved and
+well-formed noses; the inner angle of the eye often drawn down. Their
+faces were painted red, some with white rings round the eyes, and
+others with a black point on the forehead, or a white circle with a
+black point on each cheek. Some had strings of wampum in their ears,
+but the greater part of them strings of white or blue glass beads, and
+round their necks an elegant, and frequently broad necklace,
+embroidered with white beads. The neck and breast of several were
+marked with dark blue tattooed stripes, or only with some small
+figures. These Indians let their hair grow as long as possible, and
+plait it behind in a long tail, which is ornamented with round pieces
+of brass, and often hangs down to a great length, as among the
+Chinese. Many of the Dacotas have three such tails, one behind, and
+one at each side, for the Indians on the Upper Missouri take much
+pride in long hair, whereas those in the country lower [pg. 159] down
+the river, cut it short. Some wore feathers in their hair, which are
+tokens of their exploits, and are determined with great precision,
+according to the merit of the wearer. The annexed figure of a Dacota
+shows the manner in which the hair is divided into plaits.[287]
+
+  [Illustration: A Dakota, with plaited hair]
+
+The women wore their hair hanging down, naturally parted on the middle
+of the head, and the parting painted red. Their robes were coloured
+red and black. Their shoes are neatly ornamented with various figures
+made of dyed porcupine quills. I purchased several Dacota shoes; and,
+among them, a pair, on the upper part of which the figure of a bear's
+footstep was very neatly embroidered in bright colours.[288] The old
+women are generally very ugly and dirty, as they are obliged to do
+very hard work.
+
+The Sioux, who live on Teton River, near Fort Pi�rre, are mostly of
+the branch of the Tetons; though there are some Yanktons here. The
+former are divided into five branches, and the latter into three.[289]
+Like all the North American Indians, they highly prize personal
+bravery, and, therefore, constantly wear the marks of distinction
+which they have received for their exploits; among these are,
+especially, tufts of human hair attached to their arms and legs, and
+feathers on their heads. He who, in the sight of the adversaries,
+touches a slain or a living enemy, places a feather horizontally in
+his hair for this exploit. They look upon this as a very distinguished
+act, for many are often killed in the attempt, before the object is
+attained. He who kills an enemy by a blow with his fist, sticks a
+feather upright in his hair. If the enemy is killed with a musket, a
+small piece of wood is put in the hair, which is intended to represent
+a ramrod. If a warrior is distinguished by many deeds, he has a right
+to wear the great feather-cap, with ox-horns, [pg. 160] which will be
+described in the sequel. This cap, composed of eagle's feathers, which
+are fastened to a long strip of red cloth, hanging down the back, is
+highly valued by all the tribes on the Missouri, and they never part
+with it except for a good horse. In a battle with the Pawnees, a Sioux
+chief was killed, who wore such a cap; the conqueror wore it as a
+trophy, and the Sioux recognized him by it in the next battle; they
+made great efforts to kill him, and succeeded in wounding him; but his
+horse was too fleet for them, and he always escaped. Whoever first
+discovers the enemy, and gives notice to his comrades of their
+approach, is allowed to wear a small feather, which is stripped,
+except towards the top.[290] The scalps taken in battle are drawn
+over small hoops, and hung on the top of the tent-poles. He who takes
+a prisoner wears a particular bracelet. These Indians frequently
+possess from thirty to forty horses, and are then reckoned to be rich.
+The tents are generally composed of fourteen skins, each worth two
+dollars. We were told, that wealthy people sometimes have eight or
+nine wives, because they are able to support them. The Sioux do not
+understand the treatment of diseases, but generally cure wounds very
+well. Before their death, they usually determine whether they will be
+buried, or be placed on a stage, or in a tree.
+
+There was, among the Dacotas at this place, a young Punca Indian,
+whose name was Ho-Ta-Ma, a handsome, friendly man, who often amused
+himself with different games; frequently he was seen with his comrades
+playing at what was called the hoop game, at which sticks, covered
+with leather, are thrown through a hoop in motion. In the daytime the
+Indians were often seen galloping their horses, mostly riding on their
+bare backs: sometimes they ran races, as Mr. Bodmer has
+represented.[291] In the evening they drive their horses into the
+fort, as they are more safe from a hostile attack, and horse-stealing
+is universally practised by the Indians. The Indian families residing
+here are mostly related to the white inhabitants of the fort, and,
+therefore, constantly abide near them. The men lead a very indolent
+life; for, besides the chase and war, their only occupations are
+eating, smoking, sleeping, and making their weapons.
+
+During our stay here, on board the vessel, we were continually
+besieged by Indians, who did not move from the spot. Our time was,
+therefore, divided between these visitors and our excursions into the
+prairie. On the 2nd of June, 7,000 buffalo skins and other furs were
+put on board the Yellow Stone, with which it was to return to St.
+Louis. We took this opportunity of sending letters to Europe: the
+Assiniboin was assigned us for the continuation of the voyage. The
+weather, at this time, was very unfavourable; it rained at a
+temperature of 57�, and we were obliged to have a fire in our cabin
+throughout the day. The Assiniboin had already taken our baggage on
+board, but still lay on the east bank, for an attempt to bring it over
+to our side had failed, because the water was too low. In the
+afternoon, when we visited Mr. Laidlow in the fort, six Sioux, from
+the prairie, arrived on horseback, whose horde, of 200 tents, was at
+the distance of a [pg. 161] day's journey. They brought word that, two
+days' march from the fort, there were numerous herds of buffaloes.
+Among these new comers there were some elderly men; the plaits of
+their hair were wound about with strips of skin, and their faces were
+painted red; their bodies were fleshy, which was a proof that they had
+suffered less from hunger than those in the fort. They paid a visit
+first to the Assiniboin, and then to Mr. Laidlow, who gave them food
+and tobacco. Mr. Lamont, who had taken leave of us to-day, to go by
+the steam-boat to St. Louis, embarked with some of the Company's
+clerks: he was saluted with several cannon shot, and before evening
+the Yellow Stone rapidly descended the river. While Messrs. Mc Kenzie,
+Sandford, and Mitchell took up their abode in the fort, we went on
+board the Assiniboin, from which I made, on the 4th of June, an
+interesting excursion into the prairie, in order to make myself
+acquainted with the eastern bank.
+
+I left the vessel at half-past seven o'clock, the thermometer being at
+59�, and immediately ascended the steep eminences, of which the lower
+were covered partly with bright green, partly with dry, yellow grass,
+and the higher ones bare, with the surface frequently blackened by
+fire. A path, trodden by the elks to the river, led me to the highest
+summit, from which I had a pleasing prospect of the opposite bank and
+the fort. It lay, clearly delineated, in the extensive verdant plain,
+bounded by a singular chain of hills; and I again distinguished, half
+way up the mountains, the black stripe of the extensive stratum of
+coal. At noon it was warm and I returned much heated, the thermometer
+being at 72�. We received a visit from six or seven newly arrived
+Tetons, whom the interpreter, Dorion, introduced to us. They were
+particularly interested by the steam-boat, and, after they had very
+minutely examined it, they were served with dinner and pipes. The
+dinner chiefly consisted of bacon, which the Indians do not like;
+[pg. 162] they, however, swallowed it, in order that they might not
+appear uncourteous. Among them was a Teton, named Wah-Menitu (the
+spirit, or god, in the water), and who had such a voracious appetite,
+that he devoured everything which the others had left; his face was
+painted red; he had a remarkably projecting upper lip, and an aquiline
+nose much bent. In his hair, which hung in disorder about his head,
+with a plait coming over one of his eyes or nose, the feather of a
+bird of prey was placed horizontally; but observe that he had a right
+to wear three. Mr. Bodmer, who desired to draw this man's portrait,
+gave him some vermilion, on which he spat, and rubbed his face with
+it, drawing parallel lines, in the red colour, with a wooden
+stick.[292] Wah-Menitu stayed on board for the night; sung, talked,
+laughed, and joked without ceasing; and seemed quite to enjoy
+himself.
+
+  [Illustration: A Teton]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[254] This river rises in the Black Hills, near the sources of Tongue
+River, and discharges itself into the Missouri, about 1,000 miles from
+its mouth. The mouth of this river is said to be 150 paces broad, and
+its current very rapid. In the American descriptions of travels, the
+French name of this river is generally written incorrectly; for
+instance, "Qui-courre River," &c. It likewise bears the name of the
+Rapid River. Bradbury gives the names of some plants which he gathered
+on its banks.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[255] Ponca Creek, a small prairie stream, rises in the eastern part
+of Tripp County, South Dakota, and flows east and southeast about
+parallel to the Niobrara. Lewis and Clark speak of mineral springs on
+the northern bank, but do not mention them as warm.--ED.
+
+[256] A conspicuous landmark in Wheeler County, South Dakota, just
+below Fort Randall, at the 969 mile mark from the mouth of the
+Missouri. Lewis and Clark speak of it as the Dome.--ED.
+
+[257] Hugh Glass's adventures with wild beasts and Indians formed a
+kind of frontier epic, and were told around many a camp-fire. All that
+is known of his early life is that he came from Pennsylvania, and was
+spoken of as "old man Glass." He was in the Ankara campaign of 1823,
+and seriously wounded. Nevertheless he set out with Andrew Henry for
+the Yellowstone, but was nearly killed by a grizzly bear, and left to
+die. He survived, made his way to Fort Kiowa, and later joined Henry
+on the Yellowstone. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, ii, pp. 698-705. For
+his death, see _post_, volume xxiv.--ED.
+
+[258] Sir George Back (1796-1878), a well-known explorer of arctic
+North America. He entered the navy in 1808, and in 1817 made his first
+northern journey in company with Sir John Franklin. Later he
+accompanied Franklin on several expeditions, being one of his most
+trusted lieutenants. In 1833 Back organized an expedition to search
+for Sir John Ross; his account of this latter enterprise was published
+as _Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition, 1833, 1834, and 1835_
+(London, 1836). In 1836 Back made a final voyage in the "Terror,"
+whose narrative was published in 1838. Upon his return he received
+many honors, being knighted, made rear-admiral (1857), and admiral
+(1867). Maximilian quotes either from his earlier book, or from some
+of his narratives published with those of Franklin's expeditions.--ED.
+
+[259] Little Cedar Island, still so-called, is just above Wheeler,
+South Dakota, about 1010 miles up the river. Maximilian has confused
+the distance with that of an island beyond, upon which Fort Recovery
+stood, given by Bradbury as 1075 miles up. See note 261, _post_, p.
+304, and Bradbury's _Travels_, our volume v, p. 99, note 66.--ED.
+
+[260] Bijoux Hills are on the east bank of the river, not far below
+Chamberlain, South Dakota. Bijoux was an engag� with Long. See our
+volume xvi, pp. 58-59. Catlin, _North American Indians_, ii, p. 432,
+says Bijoux was ultimately killed by the Sioux.--ED.
+
+[261] The name Shannon was given to the first creek by Lewis and
+Clark, for one of their men, George Shannon, who here rejoined them
+after an absence of sixteen days, when he had been lost on the
+prairies. It is now called Dry (or Rosebud) Creek, with Rosebud
+Landing at its mouth.
+
+White, a South Dakota river, entering the Missouri in Lyman County,
+from the west.--ED.
+
+[262] This is the post usually known as Fort Recovery; see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 99, note 67.--ED.
+
+[263] Fort Lookout had originally been built (about 1822) by the
+Columbia Fur Company, and from them passed into the hands of the
+American Fur Company. Later, the Indian agency was established here,
+as Maximilian notes. It later became a military post where troops were
+quartered until the building of Fort Randall in 1857. The site was
+some ten miles above Chamberlain, on the west bank--ED.
+
+[264] For the Yankton, see our volume v, p. 90, note 55.--ED.
+
+[265] Maximilian's classification of the Dakota (or Sioux) is in
+accord with modern philological conclusions. J. W. Powell, "Indian
+Linguistic Families," in United States Bureau of Ethnology _Report_,
+1885-86, gives six subdivisions of this great tribe--Santee, Wahpeton,
+Sisseton, Yankton, Yanktonnai, and Teton; the last three, or Missouri,
+tribes corresponding with those given by Maximilian.--ED.
+
+[266] See p. 287, for illustration of method of wearing hair.--ED.
+
+[267] See his portrait, which Maximilian calls "a striking likeness,"
+Plate 41, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[268] See p. 287, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.--ED.
+
+[269] See p. 319, for illustration of Sioux tents.--ED.
+
+[270] See Plate 81, figure 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[271] Schoolcraft (Expedition of Gov. Cass, p. 323) says, that the
+Dacotas, on the Mississippi, tanned their skins with oak bark, which I
+did not observe on the Missouri: they probably learned it from the
+Whites. The Aucas, in South America, seem to use such an
+instrument.--D'Orbigny Voyage, t. ii. p. 234.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[272] Apparently the creeks took somewhat different courses in the
+time of Clark's visit--at least Crow, Wolf, and Campbell are now some
+distance apart in the Crow Creek Indian reservation of Buffalo County,
+South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[273] This is a climbing plant, and the leaves are a very nourishing
+food for horses and oxen, which are said to thrive upon it. The root
+has a bulb, about the size of a walnut, with a violet outer skin, and
+white inside, which is said to be a wholesome food for man.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[274] Clark describes the Big Bend as being from a mile to a mile and
+a quarter at its neck, with a low range of hills running across, from
+ninety to a hundred and eighty feet high. He himself walked across the
+"gouge;" but the boats were a day and a half in passing around.--ED.
+
+[275] Medicine Creek was called by Lewis and Clark Tyler's River. It
+is a western affluent of the Missouri, and the hills mentioned are
+known as Medicine Butte, in Lyman County. The mouth of the creek is
+the site of the Red Cloud or Lower Brul� Indian agency. This creek and
+hills should be distinguished from Medicine Knoll and a creek of that
+name, eastern affluents a few miles higher up.--ED.
+
+[276] Daniel Lamont, supposed to be of a Scotch family, was one of the
+original members of the Columbia Fur Company, and became one of the
+three partners of the "Upper Missouri Outfit." He was for many years
+in the fur-trade, but little is known of his personal history.
+
+Colonel David D. Mitchell was a Virginian by birth (1806), who early
+entered the fur-trade--first as a clerk, later as a partner in the
+American Fur Company. In 1832 he built the first fort for that company
+among the Blackfeet (see our volume xxiii), and was for some time in
+charge at Fort Clark, where Larpenteur speaks of him as "very much of
+a gentleman." In 1841, Mitchell was chosen superintendent of Indian
+affairs for the Western Department, with headquarters at St. Louis--a
+position which he filled until 1852. Joining the volunteer service for
+the Mexican War, he was chosen lieutenant-colonel of Colonel Sterling
+Price's regiment, and advanced first to New Mexico and later to
+Chihuahua with Colonel Alexander Doniphan. Mitchell died in St. Louis
+in 1861.--ED.
+
+[277] This island is now known as Fort George (or Airhart's)
+Island.--ED.
+
+[278] The second Fort Teton was built about 1828; it has been
+contended by several authorities that its site was south of or below
+Teton River; but in the light of Maximilian's testimony, this appears
+improbable. The first Fort Teton was probably that built by Joseph La
+Framboise in 1817. Maximilian does not state that Fort Tecumseh was
+the successor of Fort Teton, and the predecessor of Fort Pierre,
+although alluding to the former--see note 278, _post_. On the entire
+subject see "Fort Pierre and its Neighbors," in _South Dakota
+Historical Collections_ (Aberdeen, 1902), i, pp. 263-379.--ED.
+
+[279] Fort Pierre was built by the American Fur Company in 1831-32 to
+replace Fort Tecumseh, which had begun to be undermined by the river.
+The site chosen was three miles above the mouth of the Teton, about
+one thousand yards back from the river. The post was christened in
+June, 1832, upon the visit of Pierre Chouteau, jr., in whose honor it
+was named. Fort Pierre continued to be the entrep�t of the upper
+Missouri until 1855, when the company sold the post to the United
+States, then engaged in a campaign against the hostile Sioux. General
+Harney wintered here (1855-56) with one thousand two hundred men. The
+following year (1857), Fort Pierre was abandoned for Fort Randall, a
+hundred miles farther down the river; the old post was demolished, the
+best of its fittings transferred to the new post, and the rest allowed
+to fall into the hands of the Indians. The same year a trader built a
+new post, also popularly called Fort Pierre, three miles above the old
+one. New Fort Pierre, a company trading post, was built in 1859 about
+two miles above the original stockade. This was abandoned in the Sioux
+outbreak of 1863, and the goods removed to the neighborhood of Fort
+Sully, a government post established on an island below the city of
+Pierre, South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[280] Fort Tecumseh was the principal establishment on this part of
+the river for the Columbia Fur Company, being built about 1822. When
+this concern was consolidated with the American Fur Company, the
+latter made headquarters at Fort Tecumseh until the building of the
+original Fort Pierre (1831-32). Its site has been thought, by a
+misreading of authorities, to have been on the east bank; but it was
+probably only a short distance below old Fort Pierre, on the western
+bank.--ED.
+
+[281] William Laidlaw was a Scotchman who had been trained in the
+British fur companies, and came to the Missouri with the Columbia Fur
+Company. He was for several years the factor of Forts Tecumseh and
+Pierre, and was then promoted to the charge of Fort Union, where he
+was as late as 1845--probably for some time after. When he finally
+retired, it was to settle near Liberty, Missouri, where he died a poor
+man. He was an able trader, but of quick, irascible temper, and
+unpopular with his subordinates.--ED.
+
+[282] See p. 319, for plan of Fort Pierre.--ED.
+
+[283] For Pierre Dorion, see our volume v, p. 38, note 7. Although
+Maximilian speaks of him as "old Dorion," it is probable that this was
+another son of Pierre, sr.; for Pierre, jr., was a grown man at the
+time of the Lewis and Clark expedition, and his father was a
+Frenchman, not a half-breed.--ED.
+
+[284] See the portrait of the Dakota woman, Plate 42, in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[285] The red pipe-clay is found chiefly on a lateral stream of the
+Big Sioux River, but also in other places, for instance, on St.
+Peter's River; and it is said, that the several Indian tribes behave
+peaceably towards each other while they are digging up the stone in
+that place, but again treat each other as enemies as soon as they have
+left it. Persons who have visited the quarries on the Big Sioux River
+have given me the following description of them: the red stone occurs
+in large beds or strata, where the perpendicular sides of the stream
+show divers alternating layers. The strata of red stone, which are at
+the most a foot thick, alternate with yellow, blue, white, and other
+kinds of clay. The green turf on the surface, and the upper stratum,
+are removed, and the red-brown colour of the stone is generally more
+lively and beautiful the deeper you go down. It is possible to obtain
+large pieces, and to make beautiful slabs of them. The Indians make
+not only pipe-heads of this stone, but likewise war-clubs, which,
+however, are only carried in their hands for show.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ The first white person to visit the Pipestone
+quarries in southwest Minnesota was the artist George Catlin, who in
+1836 obtained permission from the Indians to inspect this sacred spot.
+The mineral has since been called "catlinite," from his name. There
+are, however, other quarries in Dakota, Wisconsin, and Minnesota.
+
+[286] See Plate 81, figure 12, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv, for a figure of a Dakota pipe; also illustration on opposite page
+of Dakota pipes.--ED.
+
+[287] See p. 323, for illustration of a Dakota with plaited hair.--ED.
+
+[288] See Plate 81, figure 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[289] For the Teton, see our volume v, p. 104, note 71. The Teton
+bands (as at present classified) are the Brul�, Sans Arcs, Blackfeet
+(not to be confused with the Blackfoot tribe of Algonquian origin),
+Miniconjou, Two Kettle, Oglala, and Hunkpapa. The Yankton bands are
+not classified by Powell.--ED.
+
+[290] See p. 287, for illustration of method of wearing hair.--ED.
+
+[291] See Plate 30, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv, for an
+Indian horse-race.--ED.
+
+[292] See p. 323, for illustration of this Teton.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+VOYAGE FROM FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON RIVER, TO FORT CLARKE, NEAR THE
+VILLAGES OF THE MANDANS, FROM JUNE 5TH TO JUNE 19TH
+
+   Singular conformation of the Country--Traces of Fire--Chayenne
+   Island and River--Former abode of the Arikkaras--The Woodcutters
+   alarmed by the Indians--Cabris or Antelopes--Wolves and other
+   Animals--Little Chayenne River--Abundance of Game--Traces of the
+   Beaver, and of the breaking-up of the Ice--Moreau's River--Grand
+   or Wetarko River--Rampart River--The two abandoned Villages of
+   the Arikkaris--La Butte au Gr�s--La Butte de Chayenne--Murder of
+   Whites by the Arikkaras--Cannon-ball River, with its Sand-stone
+   Balls--Heart River--La Butte Carr�e--Interview with the
+   Yanktonans--Fort Clarke, near the Mandan Villages--The
+   Mandans--The Crows.
+
+
+Our departure was delayed till ten o'clock on the 5th of June, when
+three guns were fired, and we left the fort. The Assiniboin was
+perfectly equipped for the voyage up the river, and had sixty men on
+board. Mr. Mc Kenzie had remained behind in the fort, but overtook us
+at noon with Mr. Laidlow, who was desirous to accompany us a little
+way. We had stopped at an island called, by the Canadians, Isle au
+Village de Terre, because, on the other side of the channel which
+divides it from the continent, there was formerly a village of the
+Sioux. This island was covered with an almost impenetrable thicket of
+narrow-leaved willows, which was so dense and entangled, that one of
+our large dogs caught an elk calf alive; we heard its moaning, but
+were not able to find it. The next morning the thermometer was at
+66��. We were obliged to unload some goods, and to lighten our
+vessel, and our hunters brought us many interesting objects,
+particularly several birds, among which was the grey butcher-bird
+(_Lanius excubitoroides_), of which Richardson gives a representation,
+and which we had not met with before. Though antelopes and a white
+wolf had approached very closely to them, our hunters had not been
+able to kill any large animals. The addition to our Flora was very
+considerable. The hills all consisted of clammy, greasy, sterile clay,
+which was burnt on the surface, and covered with pieces of stone; and
+in many places we observed on them round masses, which looked as if
+they had been [pg. 164] melted and formed by fire. We stayed here till
+noon on the 7th of June, when we again proceeded with an agreeable
+temperature of 77��. We ran aground several times, and at last took
+in our goods, which we had deposited on the left bank. This delay gave
+us time to make an excursion. In company with Mr. Bodmer, I ascended
+the slippery, very steep eminences along the river, the singular
+shapes of which often appeared to form perfect craters. The earth and
+stones everywhere indicated that they had undergone change by fire.
+The earth was hard, friable, with many crevices--the stones brown,
+blackish, and often looking like scori�. This clay, when wet, is
+exceedingly clammy and tough. The conical summits, most of which were
+perfectly round and pyramidal, were most singularly formed. At the top
+there were always very regular, parallel, horizontal rings; the lower
+parts of the pyramid had perpendicular furrows, or clefts, as the
+annexed woodcut shows.[293] These conical hills have been evidently
+elevated by fire, so that many crater-like hollows are seen between
+and near them. In the furrows and clefts of these singular hills, many
+low plants grow, and form regular net-like green stripes on the bare
+black clay. These lines, intersecting each other, divide the surface
+into regular beds. The lower part of these eminences is generally
+covered with plants, particularly grasses, while the upper is bare, or
+merely crossed with the transverse stripes of verdure, and often they
+are entirely bare. The climbing up these high, slippery ascents in the
+heat of the day was rather fatiguing. When we came into the clefts
+between the pyramids, we found the ground, in general, slimy, and so
+adhesive that we were almost compelled to leave our shoes behind. In
+such places, some old red cedars, groups of the bird cherry, ashes,
+roses, &c., were nourished by the moisture. Near the hills, and in the
+plain, a cactus, with roundish, flat joints, grew in abundance. It was
+not yet in blossom, and I cannot say whether it is the plant taken, by
+Nuttall, for _Cactus opuntia_; probably it is _Cactus ferox_. We found
+many traces of antelopes and of herds of buffaloes. The latter had
+everywhere trodden broad paths on their way to the river to drink. No
+beast of the chase presented itself as an object for our rifles, and,
+as the sun was going down, we set out on our return. On the way we
+[pg. 165] found the horns of an elk, with twelve antlers, and it was
+late before we reached the Assiniboin. On the 8th of June, in the
+morning, we received a farewell visit from Mr. Laidlow, and then saw
+Mr. Fontenelle's party, consisting of sixty men and 185 horses, pass
+along over the hills. They rode in our sight through the stream
+called, by the Anglo-Americans, Breechcloth Creek, and, by the Sioux,
+Tscheh-ke-na-ka-oah-ta-pah.[294] This stream, as well as most of the
+small rivers of the prairie, not excepting even the Little Sioux
+River, have, in general, a brackish taste when the water is low.
+Frequently taking soundings, we proceeded but slowly in the shallow
+Missouri, and, early in the afternoon, reached the place where the
+timber for building Fort Pi�rre had been felled. From this place it is
+fifteen miles to the mouth of the Chayenne River. Finding some cords
+of wood ready piled up, we took them on board. At sunset, a high wind
+arose, so that we could not reach the mouth of the Chayenne till about
+seven o'clock on the following morning, after passing Chayenne Island.
+The country about the mouth of this river is open, the chain of hills
+low, and the banks covered with forests. At its mouth, and for some
+way up on both sides of the Missouri, the Arikkaras formerly dwelt,
+till they were driven further up by the Sioux, and, at length, wholly
+retired from the banks of the Missouri.[295] If we follow the course
+of the Chayenne for a couple of hundred miles up to the Black Hills,
+we come to the dwellings of the Chayenne Indians, who are hostile to
+most of the tribes of the Missouri. They are said to be tall, slender
+men, with long, narrow faces, and differing in their language from all
+the other tribes in the country. They formerly lived at the mouth of
+Chayenne River. They affirm that they came to the Missouri from the
+north-east.[296] Dr. Morse states their number at 3,250 souls.
+
+  [Illustration: Hill of baked clay]
+
+We made but slow progress to-day; and at two o'clock, after our boats
+had taken soundings in all directions, we remained fast aground, and
+had burnt all our fuel, so that we had to send wood-cutters into the
+forests on the left bank. In about half an hour the boats suddenly
+returned, bringing word that hostile Indians had been seen in the
+forest, and the wood-cutters had, therefore, refused to begin their
+work. To give them courage, and to protect them during their work, all
+hands on board, that could be spared, armed themselves with rifles and
+muskets, and, to the number of twenty-six persons, immediately went on
+shore. They formed a line of outposts behind the trees, under whose
+protection the wood-cutters pursued their work. But they were not
+disturbed, for the Indians had retired, or it had been a false alarm.
+We lay to for the night on the west bank; a strong wind had risen,
+with a pretty high temperature, which continued till the following
+morning, the 10th of June. Early on that day we reached an island,
+which appears to be that called, by Lewis and Clarke, Caution Island,
+where a couple of white wolves gazed at us without appearing to be at
+all afraid. In the afternoon, we came to the mouth of Little Chayenne
+River, on the east bank.[297] Elks are very numerous in these parts;
+on the following morning we saw a herd of, at least, thirty of these
+large animals, as well as a great many wolves, often three or four
+together, most of them white. The wood, on the high bank, bore marks
+of [pg. 166] the breaking up of the ice, the bark of the trees being
+peeled off eight or ten feet above ground. At noon, Mr. Bodmer had
+shot a very large male antelope, which we despatched some of the
+people to bring on board; other hunters, who had gone out early to the
+east bank, made signs that they had killed some game; and the boat
+which we sent to them returned in the evening with four large elks. In
+the thick forest, on the left bank, were many traces of beavers, which
+are more numerous hereabouts than in most of the other parts on the
+Missouri, because the trappers (beaver catchers) did not venture to
+place their traps in the territory of the hostile Arikkara Indians.
+
+Opposite to the mouth of Otter Creek,[298] in the woods and thickets
+of the west bank, behind which rose the green hills of the prairie,
+there were many elks, which were frightened by the noise of the
+steamer. In this forest we found an uninhabited loghouse, 180 steps
+from which runs a pretty river, called Moreau's River, from a man of
+that name who passed the night here with a Chayenne Indian woman, who
+had been taken by the Arikkaras and escaped.[299] She stabbed him
+while he slept, and fled on his horse to her own nation. This river is
+called the southern boundary of the territory of the Arikkaras, though
+they often make excursions far beyond it. We stopped at the
+above-mentioned loghouse to cut wood, but it was found more convenient
+to pull down part of the old building and take it away. On the morning
+of the 12th, our cannon, muskets and rifles were loaded with ball,
+because we were approaching the villages of the hostile Arikkaras. We
+came to Grand River, called in Lewis and Clarke's map Wetarko River.
+As we here touched the bottom, we crossed to the east bank, and in
+half an hour reached Rampart River,[300] which issues from a narrow
+chain of hills, called Les Ramparts; and soon afterwards an island
+covered with willows, which, on the large special map of Lewis and
+Clarke, has an Arikkara village, of which there are now no
+traces.[301] From the hills we had a fine prospect over the bend of
+the river, on which the villages of the Arikkaras are situated, and
+which we reached after a short run of only two miles.
+
+The two villages of this tribe are on the west bank, very near each
+other, but separated by a small stream. They consist of a great number
+of clay huts, round at the top, with a square entrance in front, and
+the whole surrounded with a fence of stakes, which were much decayed,
+and in many places thrown down. It is not quite a year since these
+villages had been wholly abandoned, because their inhabitants, who
+were extremely hostile to the Whites, killed so many Americans, that
+they themselves foresaw that they would be severely chastised by the
+United States, and therefore preferred to emigrate. To this cause was
+added, a dry, unproductive season, when the crops entirely failed; as
+well as the absence of the herds of buffaloes, which hastened their
+removal. It is said that these Indians now roam about on the road from
+St. Louis to Santa F�, and the late attacks on the caravans are
+ascribed to them.[302] Mr. Bodmer made an accurate drawing of these
+deserted villages. The principal chief of the Arikkaras, when they
+retired from [pg. 167] the Missouri, was called Starapat[303] (the
+little hawk, with bloody claws), and generally La Main pleine de Sang,
+who will be mentioned in the sequel.
+
+The Arikkaras, or, as they are called by the Mandans, Rikkaras or
+Rees, Les Ris of the Canadians, are a branch of the Pawnees, from whom
+they long since separated. Their language, which is very easy for a
+German to pronounce, is said to be a proof of this affinity. Their
+number is supposed to be still 4000 souls, among whom 500 or 600 are
+able to bear arms. The wife of La Chapelle, the interpreter for that
+nation, was an Arikkara; she had a round full countenance, and rather
+delicate small features, with a very light yellowish complexion. It is
+affirmed that the women of this nation are the handsomest on the
+Missouri. Manoel Lisa, a well-known fur trader, had formerly built a
+trading house in this country, of which nothing now remains; though
+the place is still called Manoel Lisa's Fort.[304] The prairie was
+to-day more verdant and pleasant than yesterday. A mountain, with some
+remarkable summits, called La Butte au Gr�s, gave it some diversity.
+Here we suddenly saw, on the bank, a man, who fired his musket three
+times, and at first took him for an Indian; but another soon appeared,
+in a small leathern boat, and we learnt that both were _engag�s_ or
+travellers of the Company, who were dispatched from the Upper
+Missouri, with letters for Mr. Mc Kenzie. We took them in, and the
+little leathern boat was left lying on the beach. In the distance, on
+the left, there was a chain of mountains, with numerous summits, near
+which Cannon-ball River flows; and, nearer to the Missouri, a chain of
+flat hills, level at the top, with many clefts, called La Butte de
+Chayenne.[305] In this neighbourhood we saw a high tree in a poplar
+wood, entirely covered with turkey buzzards, as in Brazil; towards
+evening we passed Beaver Creek (Rivi�re au Castor), the Warananno[306]
+of Lewis and Clarke.[307]
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, the sky was clouded, and the wind very
+bleak. On the west bank of the river a ravine was shown us, where,
+seven or eight years before, the Arikkaras had shot seven white men,
+who were towing a loaded Mackinaw boat up the river.
+
+After we had passed an island, which is not marked in Lewis and
+Clarke's map, we observed two isolated table mountains in the prairie,
+on the west bank, which are not far from Cannon-ball River; and we
+then came to an aperture in the chain of hills, from which this
+river, which was very high, issues.[308] On the north side of the
+mouth, there was a steep, yellow clay wall; and on the southern, a
+flat, covered with poplars and willows. This river has its name from
+the singular regular sand-stone balls which are found in its banks,
+and in those of the Missouri in its vicinity. They are of various
+sizes, from that of a musket ball to that of a large bomb, and lie
+irregularly on the bank, or in the strata, from which they often
+project to half their thickness [pg. 168] when the river has washed away
+the earth; they then fall down, and are found in great numbers on the
+bank. Such sand-stone balls are met with in many places on the Upper
+Missouri; and former travellers have spoken of them. Many of them are
+rather elliptical, others are more flattened, and others flat on one
+side, and rather convex on the other. Of the perfectly spherical
+balls, I observed some two feet in diameter. On the steep bank of the
+Missouri we saw many such balls projecting from the narrow strata of
+the yellow sand-stone. A mile above the mouth of the Cannon-ball
+River, I saw no more of them. The Missouri had risen considerably;
+and, during the night, our people were obliged to keep off, with long
+poles, the trunks of trees that came floating down the river, without
+being able to prevent our receiving shocks which made the whole vessel
+tremble.
+
+  [Illustration: Antlers of deer]
+
+On the 15th, the river had risen nine inches, and brought down much
+wood and foam, which was expected, for it is reckoned that, in the
+month of June, the Missouri is twice much swollen from the melting of
+the snow in the Rocky Mountains. The weather was serene and warm. As
+early as half-past five o'clock we saw, on the eastern bank, a chain
+of table hills, quite flat at the top, which extends to a pretty
+considerable distance. The river turns, to the westward, towards this
+interesting chain, which is called the Mountains of the Old Mandan
+Village, because, at the place where it is traversed by the river,
+such a village is said to have formerly stood. At nine o'clock we
+stopped on the western bank to repair the damage the vessel had
+sustained, which gave our hunters time to make an excursion a few
+miles into the prairie. Towards eleven o'clock the bell gave the
+signal for departure. The current of the river was now very strong, so
+that we could proceed but slowly. We came to the site of the old
+Mandan village, which was situated, at the foot of the hills, in a
+fine meadow near the river; some poles, that were still standing, were
+the only remains of it; there was no village here at the time of Lewis
+and Clarke's journey. Dry, yellow grass now covered the place which
+had once been the scene of busy Indian life: only a colony of
+swallows, that had built their nests in the neighbouring hills, gave
+some animation to the scene. We were now in the territory of the
+Indian tribe of the Mandans.[309] A little further up, we saw four of
+our hunters sitting on the level ground, which was covered with
+poplars; one of them, Ortubize, the Sioux interpreter, had killed a
+Virginian deer, and wounded a large elk, which had escaped; soon
+after, Messrs. Bodmer and Harvey[310] arrived quite fatigued and
+heated; they had gone a great way, and very nearly missed the
+steamer. Mr. Harvey had killed a black-tailed or mule deer.[311] They
+had met with four of these animals, and brought the [pg. 169] head and
+skin, with some of the flesh of the one killed. At the next place,
+where we reached the hills, an isolated summit rose above the rest,
+which is called Bald Eagle Head; these hills were beautifully
+illumined with the setting sun; we saw the white wolves trotting about
+on them, and some swans were swimming in the river. On the eastern
+bank we saw the ruins of an old trading house, and many traces of
+beavers. Near the mouth of Apple Creek we took in wood, and saw, on
+the left hand, the continuation of a chain of hills, of very singular
+forms.[312] The night swallows flew over the river at an early hour,
+and a large beaver appeared among the willows, which we shot at
+without success. The 16th of June set in with a high northeast wind,
+accompanied with rain. We soon reached the mouth of Heart River,[313]
+but the wind drove our vessel towards the bank, and we were obliged to
+lay to at six o'clock; and it was not till the evening that the wind
+so far abated as to allow us to continue our voyage. The next morning,
+early, we came in sight of the Butte Carr�e.[314] In the willow
+thickets, on the bank, a very fine buffalo bull stood within half
+musket-shot; our people fired, but to no purpose. Soon after, we saw,
+in the prairie, two more very large animals of this species; and, in
+the course of the day, perceived a great number of them. The river
+brought down several dead buffalo cows. A little before the mouth of
+Lewis and Clarke's Hunting Creek,[315] the Missouri is half a mile
+broad, but soon becomes narrower. At eight o'clock we reached the
+place where a Mandan village had formerly stood.[316] The Sioux, from
+St. Peter's River, surprised it about forty years ago, killed most of
+the inhabitants, and destroyed the huts. The prairie hills formed, in
+this part, long, flat, naked ridges, perfectly resembling the walls of
+a fortress. The oaks and ashes, at the edge of the thickets, were but
+just [pg. 170] beginning to unfold their buds. It is probable, however,
+that they had suffered by a fire in the prairie. After we had passed,
+alternately, prairies, with their hills, steep clay banks, and stripes
+of forest, we prosecuted our voyage till dusk, and lay to near a large
+willow thicket, on the eastern bank, when some musket shots were
+suddenly heard, the flashes of which were evidently seen. Mr. Mc Kenzie
+immediately supposed that it was an Indian war party, which people, in
+general, avoid, as they do not much trust them. We consulted what was
+to be done. Many shots followed, which made a very loud report, it
+being the custom of the Indians to use a great deal of powder; and we
+soon perceived, among the dark thickets, the figures of the Indians in
+their white buffalo robes. As nobody knew the intentions of these
+people, we looked forward to the meeting with some anxiety. The
+Indians broke silence first, calling out that they were come with
+peaceable intentions, and wished to be taken on board. Ortubize, the
+interpreter, telling us that they were Sioux, of the branch of the
+Yanktonans, we conferred some time with them, while a kind of bridge
+of planks was thrown across to the shore. Twenty-three, for the most
+part tall men, came on board, and were made to sit down, in a row, on
+one side of the large cabin. They came from a camp of the Yanktonans,
+consisting of 300 tents, which was in the neighbourhood; they
+generally lived on the banks of the Chayenne, which falls into the Red
+River, near the Devil's Lake, and the sources of St. Peter's
+River.[317] They had been hunting in the neighbourhood, and shot some
+buffaloes. The Yanktonans are represented as the most perfidious and
+dangerous of all the Sioux, and are stated frequently to have killed
+white men, especially Englishmen, in these parts. They generally come
+to the Missouri in the winter, but at this season it was a mere chance
+that we met with them. They were mostly robust, slender, well-shaped
+men, with long dishevelled hair, in which some wore feathers as
+indications of their exploits. The upper parts of their bodies were
+generally naked, merely covered with the buffalo's skin, or blanket;
+but their whole dress was plain and indifferent, as they only came out
+for a hunting excursion. The chief of these people was Tatanka-Kta
+(the dead buffalo), a man of middling stature, with a very dark brown,
+expressive countenance, and his hair bound together over the forehead
+in a thick knot; he was dressed in a uniform of red cloth, with blue
+facings and collar, and ornamented with silver trimmings, such as the
+traders are used to give, or to sell to such chiefs as they desire to
+distinguish. In his hand he had the wing of an eagle for a fan.
+
+After we had smoked with these Yanktonans all round, the chief opened,
+before Mr. Mc Kenzie, a bag, with old pemmican (dry meat powdered), by
+way of present, and then rose to make a speech. After shaking hands,
+successively, with all persons present, he said, with much
+gesticulation, and in short sentences, between which he appeared to be
+reflecting, "that the whole body of the 300 huts was under the
+principal chief, Jawitschahka; that his people had been formerly on
+good terms with the Mandans, but had been at variance with them for
+about a year, on account of the murder of a Sioux, and now wished to
+make peace again; that with this view [pg. 171] they had sent three of
+their people to the Mandan villages, but did not know the result; and,
+therefore, were very desirous of the mediation of Mr. Mc Kenzie; that
+they happened to be near the river, when they perceived their father's
+ship, and were come to visit him; that to be able to supply the Fur
+Company with more beaver skins, they wished to have liberty to hunt on
+the Missouri, and on that account peace with the Mandans was of
+importance to them. They hoped, therefore, that Mr. Mc Kenzie would
+intercede for them, and allow them to accompany him." The answer
+was--"That if, like the other tribes of their nation, who lived
+constantly on the Missouri, they would, in future, conduct themselves
+properly, and never kill white men, he would attempt all that lay in
+his power; but he bade them consider what would be the best for them,
+whether to come on board with him, or to go alone by land to the
+Mandan villages, as he did not know how they might be received by the
+young men of the Mandan tribe." These Indians showed us a beautiful
+skin of a young, white, female buffalo, which they intended as a
+present for the Mandans, by whom such skins are highly valued. They
+had already sent them a white buffalo calf. Our visitors were
+afterwards taken into another apartment, where refreshments were set
+before them, and they were lodged for the night. The next morning,
+however, they went ashore, and proceeded to Fort Clarke on foot.
+During the night there was a violent tempest, and the next morning,
+the 18th June, was gloomy, damp, and windy. We left at an early hour
+the place of the meeting, from which it was twelve miles to Fort
+Clarke. The Yanktonans, keeping in sight of us, walked through the
+prairie, where they frightened a herd of ten or twelve wolves, which
+had long amused us by their gambols. At half-past seven we passed a
+roundish island covered with willows, and reached then the wood on the
+western bank, in which the winter dwellings of part of the Mandan
+Indians are situated; and saw, at a distance, the largest village of
+this tribe, Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush, in the vicinity of which the whole
+prairie was covered with riders and pedestrians.[318] As we drew
+nearer the huts of that village, Fort Clarke, lying before it,
+relieved by the back-ground of the blue prairie hills, came in sight,
+with the gay American banner waving from the flagstaff.[319] On a
+tongue of land on the left bank were four white men on horseback;
+Indians, in their buffalo robes, sat in groups upon the bank, and the
+discharge of cannon and musketry commenced to welcome us. The
+Assiniboin soon lay to before the fort, against the gently sloping
+shore, where above 600 Indians were waiting for us. Close to the
+beach, the chiefs and most distinguished warriors of the Mandan nation
+stood in front of the assembly of red men, among whom the most eminent
+were Charata-Numakschi (the wolf chief), Mato-Top� (the four
+bears),[320] Dipauch (the broken arm), Berock-Itainu (the ox neck),
+Pehriska-Ruhpa (the two ravens), and some others. They were all
+dressed in their finest clothes, to do us honour. As soon as the
+vessel was moored, they came on board, and, after having given us
+their hands, sat down in the stern cabin. The pipe went round, and the
+conversation began with the Mandans, by the assistance of Mr. Kipp,
+clerk to the American Fur Company, and director of [pg. 172] the trading
+post at Fort Clarke;[321] and with the Manitaries, by the help of the
+old interpreter, Charbonneau, who had lived thirty-seven years in the
+villages of the latter people, near this place.[322] Mr. Mc Kenzie
+caused the proposal of the Yanktonans to be submitted to these
+Indians, but the latter, after long deliberation, replied that they
+could not possibly accept these proposals of peace, because the
+Yanktonans were much too treacherous; that, however, no harm should
+now be done to them, and that they might depart unmolested.
+
+Most of the Indians in our cabin were stout, tall men, except
+Mato-Top�, who was of middle stature, and rather slim. I shall have
+occasion to say more, in the sequel, of this brave and distinguished
+chief. They had their weapons, such as muskets, bows, war clubs, and
+battle axes, in their hands, and also fans of eagles' wings, and wore
+buffalo robes, which, on the inner side, are painted reddish-brown, or
+white, and adorned with coloured figures. They let their hair hang
+down at length, considering it as an ornament. Sometimes it is divided
+into plaits, and daubed with a reddish clay. However, I refrain, at
+present, from describing these Indians, of whom I shall have occasion
+to speak more at length. The Mandans, Manitaries, and Crows, of which
+tribe there were now seventy tents about the fort, differ very little
+from each other in their appearance and dress; they are, however,
+taller than the Indians on the Missouri whom we had before seen, and
+their features more regular than those of the Sioux.
+
+We soon went on shore, and examined the numerous assemblage of brown
+Indian figures, of whom the women and children, in numerous groups,
+were sitting on the ground; the men, some on horseback, some on foot,
+were collected around, and making their observations on the white
+strangers. Here we saw remarkably tall and handsome men, and fine
+dresses, for they had all done their utmost to adorn themselves. The
+haughty Crows[323] rode on beautiful panther skins, with red cloth
+under them, and, as they never wear spurs, had a whip of elk's horn in
+their hand. These mounted warriors, with their diversely painted
+faces, feathers in their long hair, bow and arrows slung across their
+backs, and with a musket or spear in their hands, the latter of which
+is merely for show, were a novel and highly interesting scene. This
+remarkable assembly gazed at the strangers with curiosity, and we
+conversed with them by signs, but soon proceeded to the fort, which is
+built on a smaller scale, on a plan similar to that of all the other
+trading posts or forts of the Company. It is about the size of the
+Sioux Agency, but more rudely constructed. Immediately behind the fort
+there were, in the prairies, seventy leather tents of the Crows, which
+we immediately visited.[324]
+
+The tents of the Crows are exactly like those of the Sioux, and are
+set up without any regular order. On the poles, instead of scalps,
+there were small pieces of coloured cloth, chiefly red, floating like
+streamers in the wind. We were struck with the number of wolf-like
+dogs of all colours, of which there were certainly from 500 to 600
+running about. They all fell upon the strangers, and it was not
+without difficulty that we kept them off by throwing stones, in which
+[pg. 173] some old Indian women assisted us. We then proceeded about 300
+paces in a north-west direction from the fort, up the Missouri, to the
+principal village of the Mandans, Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush.[325] This
+village consisted of about sixty large hemispherical clay huts, and
+was surrounded with a fence of stakes, at the four corners of which
+conical mounds were thrown up, covered with a facing of wicker-work,
+and embrasures, which serve for defence, and command the river and the
+plain. We were told that these cones or block-houses were not erected
+by the Indians themselves, but by the Whites. Three miles further up
+the river, and on the same bank, is the second village of the
+Mandans, called Ruhptare, consisting of about thirty-eight clay huts,
+which we could not then visit for want of time. In the immediate
+vicinity of the principal village, the stages, on which these Indians,
+like the Sioux, place their dead, lay scattered.[326]
+
+  [Illustration: Sioux burial stages]
+
+Around them were several high poles, with skins and other things
+hanging on them, as offerings to the lord of life, Omahank-Numakshi,
+or to the first man, Numank-Machana.[327] The three villages of the
+Manitaries (_gros ventre_) nation, whose language is totally different
+from that of the Mandans, are situated about fifteen miles higher up
+on the same side of the river, and most of their inhabitants had come
+on this day to the Mandan villages.[328]
+
+The view of the prairie around Fort Clarke was at this time highly
+interesting. A great number of horses were grazing all round; Indians
+of both sexes and all ages were in motion; we were, every moment,
+stopped by them, obliged to shake hands, and let them examine us on
+all sides. This was sometimes very troublesome. Thus, for example, a
+young warrior took hold of my pocket compass which I wore suspended by
+a ribbon, and attempted to take it by force, to hang as an ornament
+round his neck. I refused his request, but the more I insisted in my
+refusal, the more importunate he became. He offered me a handsome
+horse for my compass, [pg. 174] and then all his handsome clothes, and
+arms into the bargain, and as I still refused, he became angry, and
+it was only by the assistance of old Charbonneau, that I escaped a
+disagreeable and, perhaps, violent scene. On returning to the steamer
+we there found a numerous company of Indians, some smoking, others
+wrapped in their blankets, and asleep on the floor.
+
+Mr. Sandford, the sub-agent of the Mandans, Manitaries, and Crows, had
+a conference with Eripuass (the rotten belly), the distinguished chief
+of the latter. We accompanied Mr. Sandford to this meeting. Eripuass,
+a fine tall man, with a pleasing countenance, had much influence over
+his people; being in mourning he came to the fort in his worst dress,
+his hair cut close, and daubed with clay. Charbonneau acted as
+interpreter in the Manitari language. Mr. Sandford recommended to the
+chief continued good treatment of the white people who should come to
+his territory, hung a medal round his neck, and, in the name of the
+government, made him a considerable present of cloth, powder, ball,
+tobacco, &c., which this haughty man received without any sign of
+gratitude; on the contrary, these people consider such presents as a
+tribute due to them, and a proof of weakness. The Crows, in
+particular, as the proudest of the Indians, are said to despise the
+Whites. They do not, however, kill them, but often plunder them. At
+nightfall we visited Eripuass in his tent. The whole camp of the Crows
+was now filled with horses, some with their foals, all which had been
+driven in, to prevent their being stolen. This nation, consisting of
+400 tents, is said to possess between 9,000 and 10,000 horses, some of
+which are very fine. The dogs were partly taken into the tents, and we
+were less exposed to their attacks than in the day time, yet still we
+had to fight our way through them. The interior of the tent itself had
+a striking effect. A small fire in the centre gave sufficient light;
+the chief sat opposite the entrance, and round him many fine tall men,
+placed according to their rank, all with no other covering than a
+breech-cloth. Places were assigned to us on buffalo hides near the
+chief, who then lighted his Sioux pipe, which had a long flat tube,
+ornamented with bright yellow nails, made each of us take a few puffs,
+holding the pipe in his hand, and then passed it round to the left
+hand. After Charbonneau had continued the conversation for some time
+in the Manitari language, we suddenly rose and retired, according to
+the Indian customs.
+
+The Crows are called by the Mandans, Hahderuka, by the Manitaries,
+Haideroka; they themselves call their own tribe Apsaruka. The
+territory in which they move about is bounded, to the north or
+north-west, by the Yellow Stone River, and extends round Bighorn
+River, towards the sources of Chayenne River and the Rocky Mountains.
+These Indians are a wandering tribe of hunters, who neither dwell in
+fixed villages, like the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras, nor make
+any plantations except of tobacco, which, however, are very small.
+About six years ago, the Crows are said to have had only 1,000
+warriors, at present they are reckoned at 1,200. They roam about with
+their leather tents, hunt the buffalo, and other wild animals, and
+have many horses and dogs, which, however, they never use for food.
+They are said to possess more [pg. 175] horses than any other tribe of
+the Missouri, and to send them in the winter to Wind River, to feed on
+a certain shrub, which soon fattens them. The Crow women are very
+skilful in various kinds of work, and their shirts and dresses of
+bighorn leather, embroidered and ornamented with dyed porcupine
+quills, are particularly handsome, as well as their buffalo robes,
+which are painted and embroidered in the same manner. I shall speak,
+in the sequel, of their large caps of eagles' feathers, and of their
+shields, which are ornamented with feathers and paintings,[329] and
+other articles. The men make their weapons very well, and with much
+taste, especially their large bows, covered with the horn of the elk
+or bighorn, and often with the skin of the rattle-snake. I have
+represented a beautiful quiver of this nation, adorned with rosettes
+of porcupine quills.[330] In stature and dress these Indians
+correspond, on the whole, with the Manitaries, both having been
+originally one and the same people, as the affinity of their languages
+proves. Long hair is considered as a great beauty, and they take great
+pains with it. The hair of one of their chiefs, called Long Hair, was
+ten feet long, some feet of which trailed on the ground when he stood
+upright.[331] The enemies of the Crows are the Chayennes, the
+Blackfeet, and the Sioux; their allies are the Mandans and Manitaries.
+With the latter they bartered their good horses for European goods,
+but the American Fur Company has now established a separate trading
+post for them on the Yellow Stone River, which is called Fort
+Cass.[332]
+
+Though the Crows look down with contempt upon the Whites, they treat
+them very hospitably in their tents, yet their pride is singularly
+contrasted with a great propensity to stealing and begging, which
+makes them very troublesome. They are said to have many more
+superstitious notions than the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras; for
+instance, they never smoke a pipe when a pair of shoes is hung up in
+their tent; when the pipe circulates none ever takes more than three
+puffs, and then passes it in a certain manner to his left-hand
+neighbour. They are skilful horsemen, and, in their attacks on
+horseback, are said to throw themselves off on one side, as is done by
+many Asiatic tribes. They have many bardaches,[333] or hermaphrodites,
+among them, and exceed all the other tribes in unnatural practices.
+
+As among all the Missouri Indians, the Crows are divided into
+different bands or unions. A certain price is paid for admission into
+these unions and their dances, of which each has one peculiar to
+itself, like the other Missouri tribes; on which occasion the women
+are given up to the will of the seller in the same manner, as will be
+more particularly mentioned when speaking of the other tribes. Of the
+female sex, it is said of the Crows, that they, with the women of the
+Arikkaras, are the most dissolute of all the tribes of the Missouri.
+
+This people have a superstitious fear of a white buffalo cow; when a
+Crow meets one he addresses the sun in the following words: "I will
+give her (_i.e._ the cow) to you." He then [pg. 176] endeavours to kill
+the animal, but leaves it untouched, and then says to the sun, "Take
+her; she is yours." They never use the skin of these white buffalo
+cows, as the Mandans do, of which I shall, by-and-by, speak at length.
+The most sacred objects in the eyes of this people are the sun, the
+moon, and tobacco, that is, the leaves of the genuine tobacco
+(_Nicotiana_); and, therefore, all their children wear a small portion
+of this herb, well wrapped up, round their necks, by way of amulet.
+
+They do not bury their dead in the ground, but, like the Mandans,
+Manitaries, Sioux, and Assiniboins, lay them on stages in the
+prairie.[334] A Crow woman, who was on the point of death, was very
+apprehensive and uneasy in her mind lest she should be interred in the
+ground, according to the custom of the Whites. This was her sole
+concern, though she did not otherwise express any fear of death; as
+soon as she was made easy on this point, she died perfectly
+satisfied.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[293] See p. 323, for illustration of hill of baked clay.--ED.
+
+[294] Called "No Timber Creek," by Lewis and Clark. It is now Chantier
+in Stanley County, a term clipped from its Siouan name.--ED.
+
+[295] For the Cheyenne River see our volume v, p. 126, note 81.
+Cheyenne Island, about three miles long, below the river's
+embouchment, was called "Pania" by Lewis and Clark. They note also an
+old Arikara village, of which only a circular wall remained.--ED.
+
+[296] For the Cheyenne, see our volume v, p. 140, note 88. Their
+migration was from the northeast, the habitat of the Algonquian
+stock.--ED.
+
+[297] Coues, in his edition of Biddle's Lewis and Clark, identifies
+the island called "Caution" by the explorers, as the present Plum
+Island. The Little Cheyenne is a prairie stream coming into the
+Mission from the northeast, in Potter County, South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[298] Called Beaver (or Otter) Creek by Lewis and Clark; probably the
+present Swan Creek, in Walworth County, with the town of Lebeau at its
+mouth.--ED.
+
+[299] For this stream, see our volume v, p. 127, note 82.--ED.
+
+[300] For these rivers, see our volume v, p. 127, note 83.--ED.
+
+[301] In Lewis and Clark's time there were three Arikara villages on
+the Missouri. The lower village on the island, headed by the chief
+Kakawissassa, had been abandoned by 1811. See Bradbury's _Travels_,
+our volume v, p. 127.--ED.
+
+[302] A party returning from Santa F� in the winter of 1832-33, was
+attacked January 1, on the Canadian River, lost all of their property,
+and had one man killed. The Arikara apparently never reoccupied their
+village permanently. Audubon found them in 1843 in one village with
+the Mandan, where they lived until removed to Fort Berthold
+reservation.--ED.
+
+[303] Known to the traders as "Old Star" present at Fort Clark in
+1847; see _Larpenteur's Journal_, ii, p. 246.--ED.
+
+[304] For the Arikara and Lisa see our volume v, p. 113, note 76, and
+p. 97, note 64, respectively. Fort Manuel, Lisa's post, erected in
+1800, was near the Arikara villages, the site not being definitely
+determined.--ED.
+
+[305] These are now called Cheyenne Hills. Lewis and Clark speak of
+one with a top resembling the slanting roof of a house.--ED.
+
+[306] Lewis and Clark give this as Warraconne (Elk shed their horns)
+Creek; now Beaver (or Sand) Creek, in Emmons County, North
+Dakota.--ED.
+
+[307] On a careful investigation, I have not been able to discover
+from what source Lewis and Clarke procured a part of their singular
+denominations for the affluents of the Missouri; for, in the languages
+of the neighbouring Indian nations, they have entirely different
+names.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[308] The French form for this river was Le Boulet. It rises somewhat
+north of the Black Hills, flows east in two branches across North
+Dakota, and empties into the Missouri in Morton County.--ED.
+
+[309] For a brief sketch of the Mandan, see our volume v, pp. 113,
+114, note 76. Maximilian is a chief authority for the customs of this
+interesting tribe. See our volume xxiii.--ED.
+
+[310] Alexander Harvey was a clerk of the American Fur Company. Born
+and reared in St. Louis, he quarrelled with his first employers while
+still a minor, and ran away to join the fur company. He was for
+several years at Fort McKenzie, and one of the participants in the
+Blackfoot massacre of 1843-44. Harvey was a bold and desperate
+character, and tales of his atrocities are narrated by Larpenteur, a
+fellow employ�. In 1845 he left the company's employ, and organized a
+rival concern, of which he was head. He was living at Fort Yates as
+late as 1896.--ED.
+
+[311] The black-tailed or mule deer of the Americans (_Cervus
+macrotis_, Say), has been described, by later zoologists, from an
+imperfect skin; I will, therefore, give an imperfect description from
+nature. It is larger than the Virginian deer, not so light, has a
+larger hoof, much longer ears, and does not run so swiftly--not
+quicker than a buffalo cow. It casts its horns in March, and throws
+off the rough skin of them in August. They have, generally, only one
+young one--sometimes two; they are marked with white spots, on a pale
+yellowish-red ground. One of these animals, of three or four years
+old, in shape nearly resembled the Virginian deer; the hair of the
+body was hard and scanty; the whole of a pale yellowish-red; the
+breast greyish-brown, and, on the belly, yellowish-white. In winter,
+the colour nearly resembles that of our deer in the same season. Each
+of the horns of this deer had four antlers, nearly as in _Cervus
+elaphus_. Woodcut B represents the horns of a large deer of this
+species.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See p. 347, for illustration of antlers of deer.
+
+[312] Marked on Lewis and Clark's map as Shepherd River; it is now
+Apple Creek, flowing from the east in Bismarck County, North
+Dakota.--ED.
+
+[313] For Heart River, see our volume v, p. 148, note 91.--ED.
+
+[314] On the west bank; Square Butte Creek takes its name
+therefrom.--ED.
+
+[315] Lewis and Clark here met a party of Mandan on a hunting
+excursion. This creek has not been certainly identified, the river's
+bed having changed in the vicinity. It is probably Deer Creek, in
+Oliver County.--ED.
+
+[316] Old Mandan villages had been scattered all along this reach of
+the river, Lewis and Clark noting the first remains below Heart
+River.--ED.
+
+[317] The Cheyenne River of North Dakota--not to be confused with the
+Missour affluent in South Dakota--is the largest western tributary of
+Red River of the North. Devil's Lake, a large body of fresh water in
+Halsey County, was a favorite habitat of the Sioux. South of it is now
+an Indian reservation, chiefly for Sisseton and Wahpeton Sioux. St.
+Peter's River is the present Minnesota; its source is in Big Stone
+Lake, on the boundary of Minnesota and South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[318] Lewis and Clark called the first Mandan village Ma-too-ton-ka.
+This was in a wooded bend, three miles below the site of Fort
+Clark.--ED.
+
+[319] Fort Clark, named in honor of General William Clark, was built
+in 1831 as the American Fur Company's post among the Mandan. An
+earlier post near by, had been the company's home since 1822. Fort
+Clark was second in importance only to Forts Union and Pierre. A
+trusted employ� was kept as chief factor, and the post was maintained
+until the close of the fur-trading era. Its site was eight miles below
+the mouth of Big Knife River, on the west bank, some eighty or ninety
+paces back from the river, and about three-quarters of a mile lower
+down and on the opposite side of the river from Fort Mandan, Lewis and
+Clark's wintering place (1804-05).--ED.
+
+[320] The Wolf chief, called by the French traders Chef de Loup, and
+by Catlin Ha-na-ta-nu-mauk, was head chief of the nation. Of an
+austere and haughty nature, he was feared rather than beloved by the
+tribe, whose idol was Four Bears, the second chief. Bodmer painted
+this chief in two ways (see Plates 46 and 47, in the accompanying
+atlas, our volume xxv). Catlin also secured his likeness both in full
+dress and in mourning. Catlin describes in detail a buffalo robe
+covered with paintings representing his exploits; see Catlin, _North
+American Indians_, i, pp. 145-154.--ED.
+
+[321] James Kipp was born in Canada in 1788. When about twenty years
+of age he entered the fur-trade, as hunter and trapper in the Red
+River region. By 1818 he was on the upper Missouri, and became the
+agent of the Columbia Fur Company at its Mandan post. Later, he became
+a trusted employ� of the American Fur Company, building Fort Piegan
+among the Blackfeet (1831). For many years he was chief factor at Fort
+Clark, transferring (1835) to Fort McKenzie. Audubon found him in
+charge of Fort Alexander, on the Yellowstone, in 1843, and two years
+later he was entrusted with the important post at Fort Union. He
+retired from the fur-trade in 1865, and settled upon his Missouri
+farm, which he had acquired many years before. As late as 1876 he once
+more visited the Mandan, whose language he was said to have been the
+first white man to master.--ED.
+
+[322] For Toussaint Charbonneau, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our
+volume vi, p. 32, note 3.--ED.
+
+[323] For the Crow Indians, see our volume v, p. 226, note 121.--ED.
+
+[324] See Plate 13, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[325] See Plate 49, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[326] See p. 347, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.--ED.
+
+[327] For the traditions of the first man, Nu-mohk-muck-a-nah, consult
+Catlin, _North American Indians_, i, pp. 178-181.--ED.
+
+[328] For the Minitaree, see our volume v, pp. 113, 114, note 76. An
+extended account is given by Washington Matthews, "Ethnography and
+Philology of the Hidatsa Indians," in United States Geological and
+Geographical Survey of the Territories, _Miscellaneous Publications_,
+No. 7 (Washington, 1877). Maximilian classes with the Minitaree
+villages that of the Ahnahaway, or Gens des Souliers, also called
+Wetersoon, whom Lewis and Clark considered a separate though allied
+tribe.--ED.
+
+[329] See Plate 81, figures 5 and 6, in the accompanying atlas, volume
+xxv of our series.--ED.
+
+[330] _Ibid._, figure 10.--ED.
+
+[331] Catlin says that Long Hair was the head chief of the tribe,
+having received his office from the circumstance of having the longest
+hair in the tribe. Campbell and Sublette stated that they had lived in
+his lodge and examined his hair, which measured ten feet and seven
+inches of natural growth.--ED.
+
+[332] Fort Cass was built by the American Fur Company in the autumn of
+1832, on the right bank of the Yellowstone, two or three miles below
+the mouth of the Bighorn. It was intended for the Crow trade, and
+frequently was called Tulloch's fort from its founder, a company
+employ�. Wyeth, on his famous voyage, passed this fort in a bull-boat,
+August 18, 1833. See Irving, _Rocky Mountains_, ii, pp. 159-161. About
+1838 Fort Cass was abandoned in favor of Fort Van Buren farther down
+the Yellowstone.--ED.
+
+[333] The bardaches will be spoken of when we are treating of the
+customs of the Mandans.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[334] See p. 347, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+VOYAGE FROM FORT CLARKE TO FORT UNION, NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE YELLOW
+STONE RIVER, FROM THE 19TH TO THE 24TH JUNE
+
+   Ruhptare, the second Village of the Mandans--The Villages of the
+   Manitaries on the Knife River--Interview with the
+   Manitaries--Winter Villages of that Nation--Remarkable
+   Hills--Mountain L'Ours qui Danse--Little Missouri
+   River--Territory of the Assiniboins--Kiasax and Matsokui, two
+   Blackfeet Indians--The Grizzly Bear--Interview with the
+   Assiniboins--The Bighorn--Muddy River, Lewis and Clarke's White
+   Earth River--Yellow Stone River--Fort Union.
+
+
+On the 19th June, the Assiniboin left Fort Clarke, with a high, cold
+wind, and clouded sky; the thermometer, at nine in the morning, being
+at 60��. The chiefs, and other Indians, had come on board, and also
+Kiasax, a Blackfoot Indian, who wished to return to his own people.
+The country, on the south bank, appeared to us to have some
+resemblance with many parts on the banks of the Rhine; but, on the
+right bank, there soon appeared those singular hills, resembling
+fortifications. At ten o'clock, we came to Ruhptare, the second Mandan
+village, on the south bank, which is situated in a plain a little
+higher than the river. All the inhabitants, in their buffalo dresses,
+were collected on the bank, and some had taken their station on the
+tops of their huts to have a better view: the whole prairie was
+covered with people, Indians on horseback, and horses grazing. In the
+low willow thickets on the bank, the brown, naked children were
+running about; all the men had fans of eagles' feathers in their
+hands. The village was surrounded with a fence of palisades; and, with
+its spherical clay huts, looked like a New Zealand Hippah. Here, too,
+there were high poles near the village, on which skins and other
+things were hung, as offerings to the lord of life, or the sun, and
+numerous stages for the dead were scattered about the prairie. As we
+proceeded, the whole population accompanied us along the steep bank on
+foot and on horseback, followed by many of their large wolf dogs. The
+[pg. 178] country was pretty open and flat. We saw before us the fine
+broad mirror of the river, and, at a distance on the southern bank,
+the red mass of the clay huts of the lower village of the Manitaries,
+which we reached in half an hour. The Missouri is joined by the Knife
+River, on which the three villages of the Manitaries are built. The
+largest, which is the furthest from the Missouri, is called El�h-S�
+(the village of the great willows); the middle one, Awatichay (the
+little village), where Charbonneau, the interpreter, lives; and the
+third, Awach�wi (le village des souliers), which is the smallest,
+consisting of only eighteen huts, situated at the mouth of Knife
+River.[335] While we were examining this interesting country, and
+receiving from Charbonneau many particulars respecting these villages,
+in which he had lived for more than thirty years, our Indian
+companions were sitting or lying about the fire, smoking their pipes.
+Among them was Dipauch (the broken arm), a tall, stout man, with whom
+I frequently came in contact in the following winter. His long, thick
+hair was bound together in a large queue, and on his breast he wore a
+silver gorget, which he had received as a present from the Whites. The
+expression of his countenance was agreeable, whereas that of Berock
+Itain� (bull's neck), a similar colossus, the inseparable companion of
+the former, was gloomy and less pleasing. Both were six feet high, and
+Berock Itain� wore his hair tied together in a knot upon his head.
+Mato-Top� (the four bears), the eminent Mandan chief, whom I have
+before mentioned, and Ch�rat�-Num�kshi (the chief of the wolves), were
+also present; and I purchased from the former his painted buffalo
+dress, which had hitherto been his medicine (_i.e._ charm), which he
+highly valued as a _souvenir_ of his brother, who had been shot by the
+enemy. Our cookery pleased them much; they were fond of coffee, and
+sugar was a great delicacy; but they cannot make maple sugar like the
+Indians in the woody country, because the trees are neither numerous
+nor strong enough to produce this article.
+
+When we turned our eyes from the dark brown inhabitants to the
+surrounding scenery, we saw, on the banks, grey hills, with level
+prairies and willow thickets next the river, and the country, in
+general, was rather flat than mountainous. The hills were partly
+depressed at the top--a feature which is almost peculiar to these
+hills. At noon the sun burst forth, and the thermometer was at 76�,
+with a high wind. The south bank of the river was now animated by a
+crowd of Indians, both on foot and on horseback; they were the
+Manitaries, who had flocked from their three villages to see the
+steamer and to welcome us. The appearance of this vessel of the
+Company, which comes up, once in two years, to the Yellow Stone River,
+is an event of the greatest importance to the Indians; they then come
+from considerable distances to see this hissing machine, which they
+look upon as one of the most wonderful medicines (charms) of the white
+men. The sight of the red-brown crowd collected on the river side, for
+even their buffalo skins were mostly of this colour, was, in the
+highest degree, striking. We already saw above a hundred of them, with
+many dogs, some of which drew sledges, and others, wooden boards
+[pg. 179] fastened to their backs, and the ends trailing on the ground,
+to which the baggage was attached with leather straps. The Indians
+hastened through the willow thicket, and, altogether, stood opposite
+to us on the steep, low, sandy bank, where they were so crowded that
+we, every moment, expected to see the sand give way.
+
+The most attractive sight which we had yet met with upon this voyage,
+now presented itself to our view. The steamboat lay to close to the
+willow thicket, and we saw, immediately before us, the numerous,
+motley, gaily painted, and variously ornamented crowd of the most
+elegant Indians on the whole course of the Missouri. The handsomest
+and most robust persons, of both sexes and all ages, in highly
+original, graceful, and characteristic costumes, appeared, thronged
+together, to our astonished eye; and there was, all at once, so much
+to see and to observe, that we anxiously profited by every moment to
+catch only the main features of this unique picture. The Manitaries
+are, in fact, the tallest and best formed Indians on the Missouri,
+and, in this respect, as well as in the elegance of their costume, the
+Crows alone approach them, whom they, perhaps, even surpass in the
+latter particular. Their faces were, in general, painted red, in which
+the North Americans agree with the Brazilians, and many other South
+Americans; their long hair hung in broad flat braids down their backs;
+on the side of each eye, they had hanging, from the forehead, a string
+of white and blue beads, alternating with tooth shells, and their
+heads were adorned with feathers, stuck in the hair.
+
+The expression of their remarkable countenances, as they gazed at us,
+was very various; in some, it was cold and disdainful; in others,
+intense curiosity; in others, again, good-nature and simplicity. The
+upper parts of their bodies were, in general, naked, and the fine
+brown skin of their arms adorned with broad, bright bracelets of a
+white metal. In their hands they carried their musket, bow and
+battle-axe; their quivers, of otter skin, elegantly decorated, were
+slung over their backs; their leggins were trimmed with tufts of the
+hair of the enemies whom they had killed, with dyed horse-hair of
+different colours, and with a profusion of leather fringe, and
+beautifully embroidered with stripes of dyed porcupine quills, or
+glass beads, of the most brilliant colours. These handsome, robust
+men, showing their remarkably fine white teeth as they smiled, gave
+free expression to their feelings; and the unnatural and ugly
+fashions, as well as the different costumes of the white people,
+probably afforded ample matter for satirical observations, for which
+these children of nature have a peculiar turn. All these Indians were
+dressed in their very finest clothes, and they completely attained
+their object; for they made, at least upon us strangers, a very lively
+impression. Many of them were distinguished by wearing leather shirts,
+of exquisite workmanship, which they obtain by barter from the Crows.
+Several tall, athletic men were on horseback, and managed their
+horses, which were frightened by the noise of the steam-boats, with an
+ease which afforded us pleasure. Urging them with their short whips in
+the manner of the Cossacks, with the bridle fastened to the lower jaw,
+they, at length, pushed the [pg. 180] light, spirited animals through
+the willow thicket, till they reached the river, where these fine bold
+horsemen, resembling the Circassians, with their red-painted
+countenances, were regarded with great admiration. Many of them wore
+the large valuable necklace, made of long bears' claws, and their
+handsomely-painted buffalo robe was fastened round the waist by a
+girdle. In general they had no stirrups, but sat very firmly on the
+naked backs of the horses, and several rode on a saddle resembling the
+Hungarian saddle. Among the young women we observed some who were very
+pretty, the white of whose sparkling hazel eyes formed a striking
+contrast with the vermilion faces. I regret that it is impossible,
+by any description, to give the reader a distinct idea of such a
+scene, and there was not sufficient time for Mr. Bodmer to make a
+drawing of it. The following winter, however, afforded us an
+opportunity, in some measure, to supply this deficiency.
+
+  [Illustration: A Blackfoot musical instrument]
+
+The chiefs of the Manitaries came on board for a short time; among
+them were old Addi-Hiddisch (the road maker), P�hriska-R�hpa (the two
+ravens), Lachpiz�-Sihrish (the yellow bear), and several others, and
+with them the Blackfoot Kiasax, in his best dress, who was to make the
+voyage along with us. He was accompanied by his Manitari wife, who
+carried a little child, wrapped in a piece of leather, fastened with
+straps. She wept much at parting from her husband, and the farewell
+scene was very interesting. While this was going on, an Indian, on the
+shore, was employed in keeping off the crowd with a long willow rod,
+which he laid about the women and children with a right hearty good
+will, when, by their curiosity, they hindered our _engag�s_ and crew
+in loosening the vessel from the shore. The vessel, however, was ready
+to start; Mr. Kipp, Charbonneau, the interpreter, and the Manitari
+chiefs, took leave, and hastened to land, on which the Assiniboin
+proceeded rapidly up the Missouri. The Indians followed us, for a
+time, along the bank; about thirty of them formed an interesting group
+on horseback, two sometimes sitting on the same beast. As the willow
+thickets on the banks ceased, we had a good view of the prairie, where
+many Indian horsemen were galloping about; herds of horses fled from
+the noise of the vessel. The friends and relations of Kiasax and
+Matsokui--for we had taken another Blackfoot on board--followed the
+vessel longer than any of the others; they frequently called to them,
+and nodded farewell, to which Kiasax answered with a long wooden
+pipe, upon which he played a wretched piece of music.[336] This Mandan
+pipe, which the Indians, on the Upper Missouri, frequently use, is
+from two and a half to three feet long, rather wider at the lower end,
+and has a hole on the upper side, which is alternately opened and shut
+with the finger. By way of ornament, an eagle's feather is fastened
+[pg. 181] to the end of the instrument with a string, which is generally
+a medicine or talisman of the owner. Kiasax set a high value on his
+pipe, which he held constantly in his hand, and would not sell on any
+terms. A violent storm, accompanied by heavy rain, compelled us to lay
+to, for ten minutes, on the left bank, where the river is bounded by
+steep high hills. At this spot Major Pilcher had formerly established
+a trading post for the Crows and Assiniboins.[337] There were, at that
+time, no such posts further up the Missouri, but it has since been
+abandoned, and no trace of it is now to be seen. Before us was a fine
+extensive view of romantic gradations of the tongues of land, singular
+mountain tops and cones; and, on the grey chain of hills, we again saw
+the black horizontal parallel strata of the bituminous coal, which
+accompany, without interruption, the course of the Missouri. This
+black fossil has often been examined, with the hope that it might be
+employed as fuel, but it is unserviceable, has a very bad smell, and
+is of no use even for blacksmiths' work.[338] These black strata have
+evidently undergone, in former times, the action of fire; and we
+everywhere observed, on the ridges of the hills, clay or clay-slate
+formations, either in the shape of cones, or angular, like
+fortifications. Many of these pyramids are perfectly regular, and
+stand on a broad basis, furrowed by the water; some are square, and
+others regularly flattened. The strata of bituminous coal extend along
+the base of most of them; all these singularly-formed rocks have,
+doubtless, been elevated by the action of subterraneous fire. The
+evening sun illumined the grotesque pyramidal hills, and their shadows
+gave us a clear idea of their forms. The northern declivity of the
+mountains was partly covered with bushes; the southern, almost always
+naked and bare. Towards nightfall we passed the winter village of the
+Manitaries,[339] situated in a forest, which, at this time, was
+without inhabitants, and then came to a tongue of land on the right
+hand, with a high, steep, rocky bank, on which Mr. Sandford once
+found, in the month of April, great numbers of serpents, which he
+estimated at several thousands. They appear to have consisted of two
+species only, which, by their description, were, doubtless, the _Col.
+sirtalis_ and _flaviventris_ of Say. All the holes and pits in the
+sides of the rock, and between the blocks of stone on the bank, are
+said to have been full of them. In one small ravine they lay coiled up
+in balls; several hundreds of them were killed, the Americans, in
+general, having an antipathy to these animals. Bradbury, too, mentions
+large heaps of serpents, under stones, along the Missouri, but at
+another season of the year. That serpents must abound in these parts,
+seems to be proved by the name of a small stream, which is called
+Snake Creek. Half a mile from this place, the Miry Creek flows, from a
+flat meadow;[340] on the hills beyond we saw some antelopes.
+
+On the following morning, the 20th of June, we perceived, in a forest
+on the bank, fifteen Indians, and soon afterwards four large elks,
+which would have been a welcome prey to the hunters, had they been
+aware of their being so near. One of the strata of black coal on the
+generally flat hills of this part of the country had lately been on
+fire; we did not, however, perceive any smoke.
+
+[pg. 182] After ten o'clock, having taken in fuel, we came to singular
+hills, flattened at the top, which are called L'Ours qui Danse,
+because it is said the Indians here celebrate the bear dance, a
+medicine feast, in order to obtain success in the chase.[341] At noon
+there was a high cold wind while the thermometer was at 70�. The
+country was rather flat, and the river was bordered by green forests;
+on the right bank, in particular, the wood was beautiful, lofty, and
+dark. Here we observed many traces of beavers, such as gnawed trees
+and paths leading to the water's edge. Our hunters gradually returned
+to the bank; they had shot two Virginian deer, an antelope, and a
+prairie hen. Mr. Bodmer, who returned to the vessel much fatigued and
+heated, brought with him a stone[342] of the shape of a battle-axe,
+which had been found in the prairie.[343]
+
+  [Illustration: Stone battle-axe]
+
+Continuing our voyage, we saw the buffaloes hasten away, and moored
+our vessel at twilight to some trees on the north bank. All over the
+plain there were deeply trodden paths of the buffaloes. On the morning
+following, the 21st, the river had risen considerably, and brought
+down trunks of trees, branches, &c., which covered the surface, and
+gave our vessel some violent shocks: strips of wood, and desolate
+hills, without any vegetation, appeared. On the southern bank we came
+to a green spot at the mouth of the Little Missouri,[344] which is
+reckoned to be 1670 miles from the mouth of the Great Missouri. The
+chain of blue hills, with the same singular forms as we had seen
+before, appeared on the other side of this river. In the forests roses
+in full blossom formed a thick underwood, which was traversed by the
+path of the buffaloes. Before noon we reached the territory of the
+Assiniboins, and were, at this time, at Wild Onion Creek.[345] Kiasax
+(l'ours gauche--left-handed or awkward bear) had permitted Mr. Bodmer
+to take his portrait, without making any objection, whereas Matsokui
+(beautiful hair) was not to be persuaded to do so, affirming that he
+must then infallibly die. It turned out in the sequel that he was to
+die, and Kiasax to return, unhurt by the enemy. The latter had adopted
+the costume of the Manitaries, but at the same time wrapped himself in
+a Spanish blanket, striped blue, white and black, which, as well as a
+metal cross, which he wore suspended round his neck, was a proof of
+the intercourse between the Blackfoot Indians and the Spaniards near
+the Rocky Mountains. These two Indians appeared to be very quiet,
+obliging men. Thus, for instance, they never [pg. 183] returned from an
+excursion on shore, without bringing me some handfulls of plants,
+often, it is true, only common grass, because they had observed that
+we always brought plants home with us.
+
+We lay to about three miles below Goose Egg Lake. A white wolf
+accompanied the steam-boat as it proceeded. We came to the canal which
+joins Goose Egg Lake to the Missouri, which I was unable to examine,
+as the steamer did not stop. Here the river makes a great bend, which,
+as well as that near Fort Lookout, is called by some Canadians Le
+Grand D�tour.[346] Early on the following morning, the 22nd, we saw
+wild animals of various kinds, such as buffaloes, elks, and Virginian
+deer. The wild geese with their young suffered us to approach pretty
+closely, because, at this season, they moult their long wing feathers.
+About ten o'clock we had an alarm of fire on board: the upper deck had
+been set on fire by the iron pipe of the chimney of the great cabin.
+We immediately lay to, and, by breaking up the deck, the danger was
+soon over, which, however, was not inconsiderable, as we had many
+barrels of powder on board. We had scarcely got over this trouble,
+when another arose; the current of the swollen river was so strong,
+that we long contended against it to no purpose, in order to turn a
+certain point of land, while, at the same time, the high west wind was
+against us, and both together threw the vessel back three times on the
+south coast. The first shock was so violent, that the lower deck
+gallery was broken to pieces. Our second attempt succeeded no better;
+part of the paddle-box was broken, and carried away by the current. We
+were now obliged to land forty men to tow the vessel, for which
+purpose all on board voluntarily offered their services, even the two
+Blackfeet overcame their natural laziness. Beyond this dangerous
+place, we took on board the hunters whom we had sent out. They were
+covered from head to foot with blood, and hung about with game, having
+killed two elks. The effect of the current and the wind upon our
+vessel continued for a long time. It was often thrown against the
+alluvial bank, so that the deck was covered with earth, and the track
+of our vessel clearly marked along the clayey sand bank. After four
+o'clock we stopped at a narrow verdant prairie in front of the hills,
+to fell wood: several pretty plants, among which was a juniper with
+the berries still green, were found here. The cat bird, the wren and
+blackbird animated the thickets, and we observed also the great curlew
+(_Numenius longirostris_). A very large elk horn of twelve antlers had
+been found; a number of them lie about in all the forests and
+prairies, of which no use is made. In the afternoon we saw in the
+prairie of the north bank a large grizzly bear, and immediately sent
+Ortubize and another hunter in pursuit of him, but to no purpose. Soon
+after we saw two other bears, one of a whitish, the other of a dark
+colour, and our hunters, when they returned, affirmed that they had
+wounded the largest. Harvey had shot an elk, and brought the best part
+of it from a great distance, and with considerable exertion, to the
+river. From this place upwards, the grey bear became more and more
+common; further down the river it is still rare. Brackenridge says, it
+is not found below the [pg. 184] Mandan villages, but this is not quite
+correct. Near the prairie where we saw the bears, is the mouth of
+White Earth River, called by Lewis and Clarke, Goat-pen River.[347]
+Here we crossed the Missouri, and lay to for the night on the south
+coast, where some of our people landed to set traps for the beavers.
+Harvey had the good fortune to catch, during the night, a young
+beaver, which he brought on board alive, on the following morning, the
+23rd. The iron trap had broken one of the legs of the little beaver,
+and with all our care we could not keep it alive. The surrounding
+country on the banks of the Missouri, which is here very broad, again
+showed the singularly formed angular hills flattened at the top like
+tables: several pretty prairies, in which the white artemisia and
+other beautiful plants grew, extended at the foot of the eminences, on
+the declivity of which the buffalo berry and the creeping juniper were
+common; henceforward the clay cones were partly burnt as red as
+bricks, which was a clear proof of their origin. Many of them had
+parallel horizontal stripes, projecting a little, of harder sandstone
+strata, which had resisted the influence of the elements more than the
+intermediate strata of clay and sand.
+
+The vessel laying to, about eleven o'clock, near a wood on the south
+bank, we suddenly perceived on the north bank some Indians, who
+immediately called to us. They were the first Assiniboins that we had
+met with; they sat upon the bank waiting for the boat which Mr. Mc
+Kenzie sent to them. After a short pause they came on board the
+steamer, and proved to be Stass�ga (le brecheux), who was well known
+to Mr. Mc Kenzie, with seven of his people of the branch called by the
+French, Gens des Filles.[348] The chief, a robust, thick-set man,
+rather above the middle size, wore his hair tied behind in a thick
+queue, and cut short in front; he had bound across the crown a slip of
+whitish skin; in his ears he had strings of blue and white glass
+beads; round his neck a collar of bears' claws; the upper part of his
+body was wrapped in a red woollen shirt; his legs were quite bare, but
+he had a pair of handsomely embroidered leggins which he put on when
+his people left the vessel. He was wrapped in a buffalo robe, and had
+in his hand a musket, and an eagle's wing for a fan. Another robust
+man had smeared his face, about the eyes, with white clay. The rest of
+these Indians were neither well formed nor well dressed, but dirty and
+slovenly. Their hair hung in disorder about their heads; some of them
+had made it up into three plaits; their legs were mostly bare; only a
+couple of them had leggins. One of them, with a Jewish physiognomy,
+wore a white wolf skin cap. Some of them were marked with two parallel
+tattooed black stripes from the neck down the breast; the upper parts
+of their bodies were naked, but they were wrapped in buffalo robes.
+Most of them had guns, and all, without distinction, bows and arrows,
+the latter in a quiver or bag made of skin, to which also the case for
+the bow is attached, as shown in the woodcut.[349]
+
+As the Assiniboins are a branch of the Sioux, Ortubize was able to act
+as interpreter. They were made to sit down round the great cabin, and
+the pipe circulated; they likewise [pg. 185] received abundance of food,
+which seemed to please them much. They said that since they came to
+these parts in the spring, they had suffered much from want of food,
+buffaloes being scarce. They intended shortly to leave this part of
+the country, but the chief wished to go with us to Fort Union, which
+we allowed him to do. After they had been shown about the vessel, the
+steam-engine of which greatly excited their attention, though they
+suppressed any mark of surprise, they were landed in a lofty poplar
+grove on the north bank.
+
+After dinner, we proceeded along the side of a prairie, where we heard
+the note of the great curlew. The valley of the river was bounded on
+both sides by very remarkable whitish-grey, obliquely stratified
+ridges, with singular spots of red clay, and bushes in the ravines; at
+their feet was the prairie, covered with pale green artemisia; and on
+the tongues of land, at the windings of the Missouri, there were fine
+poplar groves, with an undergrowth of roses in full bloom,
+buffalo-berry bushes, and many species of plants. On the mountains we
+again saw naked rounded cones of earth, as if they had been thrown up
+by moles, and, on the tops of some of them, a little turret, or cone,
+while their sides were rounded by the rain water, or marked with
+parallel perpendicular furrows.
+
+On our further progress up the river, we saw, for the first time, the
+animal known by the name of the bighorn, or the Rocky Mountain sheep,
+the _Ovis montana_ of the zoologists. A ram and two sheep of this
+species stood on the summit of the highest hill, and, after looking at
+our steamer, slowly retired. These animals are not frequent
+hereabouts, but we afterwards met with them in great numbers. We here
+took on board some cord wood, which the different trading posts had
+employed their _engag�s_ to get ready for the steamboat.
+
+On the 24th, in the morning, we found the banks wooded, and beyond the
+thickets were the chain of hills, in the middle of which were strata
+of the colour of red bricks. Cones of that colour, and sometimes
+detached grey figures, with a red base, crowned the heights. Many
+varied colours showed that these eminences must have undergone the
+action of fire. About eight o'clock we came to the mouth of Muddy
+River (the White Earth River of Lewis and Clarke), which issues from a
+thicket on the north bank.[350] In this part we saw smoke on the
+bank, and, soon afterwards, some Assiniboins, one of whom fired three
+shots to attract our attention: others soon came up, and we took them
+on board. They were robust men, with high cheek-bones, well dressed,
+all in leather shirts, their legs mostly bare, and their hair hanging
+smooth about their heads; one of them took off the leather case of his
+bow, and wrapped it round his head like a turban, so that a little
+tuft of feathers, at one end of it, stood upright. Following the
+numerous windings of the Missouri, from one chain of hills to another,
+we reached, at seven o'clock in the evening, the mouth of the Yellow
+Stone, a fine river, hardly inferior in breadth to the Missouri at
+this part. It issues below the high grey chain of hills, and its mouth
+is bordered with a fine wood of tall poplars, with willow thickets.
+The two rivers unite in an obtuse angle; and there [pg. 186] is a sudden
+turn of the Missouri to the north-west; it is not wooded at the
+junction, but flows between prairies thirty or more miles in extent.
+Herds of buffaloes are often seen here; at this time they had left
+these parts: we saw, however, many antelopes. At the next turn of the
+river, towards the right hand, we had a fine prospect. Gentle
+eminences, with various rounded or flat tops, covered with bright
+verdure, formed the back-ground; before them, tall poplar groves, and
+willow thickets on the bank of the river, whose dark blue waters,
+splendidly illumined by the setting sun, flowed, with many windings,
+through the prairie. A little further on lay Fort Union, on a verdant
+plain, with the handsome American flag, gilded by the last rays of
+evening, floating in the azure sky, while a herd of horses grazing
+animated the peaceful scene.[351]
+
+As the steamer approached, the cannon of Fort Union fired a salute,
+with a running fire of musketry, to bid us welcome, which was answered
+in a similar manner by our vessel. When we reached the fort, we were
+received by Mr. Hamilton, an Englishman, who, during the absence of
+Mr. Mc Kenzie, had performed the functions of director,[352] as well
+as by several clerks of the Company, and a number of their servants
+(_engag�s_ or _voyageurs_), of many different nations, Americans,
+Englishmen, Germans, Frenchmen, Russians, Spaniards, and Italians,
+about 100 in number, with many Indians, and half-breed women and
+children. It was the seventy-fifth day since our departure from St.
+Louis, when the Assiniboin cast anchor at Fort Union.
+
+The Yellow Stone, being one of the principal affluents of the
+Missouri, receives several considerable streams, of which the
+following are the chief:--
+
+     1. The Bighorn River (_La Grosse Corne_).
+     2. The Little Bighorn River (_La Petite Grosse Corne_).
+     3. The Tongue River (_La Rivi�re � la Langue_).
+     4. The Powder River (_La Rivi�re � la Poudre_).
+
+The Yellow Stone is called, by the Canadians, La Roche Jaune. Warden
+calls it Keheetsa, but I do not know where he got this name. Lewis and
+Clarke say it has no name. The names given it by most of the Indian
+nations signify Elk River.[353]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[335] Knife River, called by the French Rivi�re de Couteau, and by the
+Indians Minah Wakpa, is a prairie stream, whose course is in general
+east, entering the Missouri in Mercer County, North Dakota. The town
+of Stanton is now on the site of the third village, Awachawi--ED.
+
+[336] See p. 361, for illustration of a Blackfoot musical
+instrument.--ED.
+
+[337] This fort of Pilcher, built for the Missouri Fur Company about
+1822, was about eleven miles above the mouth of Knife River, and named
+Fort Vanderburgh. Not proving profitable, it was maintained but a
+short time. See another mention in our volume xxiii, chapter
+xxiii.--ED.
+
+[338] See article by O. D. Wheeler, in _Wonderland_ (1904), on the
+recent development of the lignite coal area of North Dakota.--ED.
+
+[339] It was a custom of the Minitaree, maintained until 1866, to
+leave their permanent village each winter for a spot where fuel was
+convenient, and there build log-cabins, very warm and secure, as
+winter quarters. They thus preserved both the fuel supply, and the
+game in the neighborhood of their summer home.--ED.
+
+[340] Miry Creek appears to be the present Snake Creek, in McLean
+County, North Dakota, the one which Maximilian designates as Snake
+being a small run from a cliff which was known as Snake den. See
+_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 291.--ED.
+
+[341] See description of bear-dance, with illustration, in Catlin,
+_North American Indians_, i, pp. 242-245.--ED.
+
+[342] These stones are generally granite, not sharp, but rounded in
+front; are used by the Indians to break the large bones of the
+buffaloes, of the marrow of which they are very fond. Stones closely
+resembling these are found among the Blackfoot Indians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[343] See p. 361, for illustration of a stone battle-axe.--ED.
+
+[344] The Little Missouri is the most important North Dakota affluent
+of the Missouri, above the Cannonball. It rises on the northwestern
+slopes of the Black Hills and flows north for some distance, thence
+turning northeast and east to enter the main river in Williams County.
+It is a broad but shallow stream, impregnated with alkali.--ED.
+
+[345] Wild Onion Creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because of the
+quantity of that plant growing upon its bordering plains. Within
+Garfield County, North Dakota, it is now denominated Pride Creek.--ED.
+
+[346] Goose Egg Lake, so named by the explorers "from the circumstance
+of my [Clark] shooting a goose on her nest on some sticks in the top
+of a high cotton wood tree in which there was one egg," is now Cold
+Spring Lake (_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i,
+pp. 304, 305). The great bend (Grand Detour) is still so named, but is
+much wider than the lower bend, being nearly ten miles across, and
+over twenty around the curve.--ED.
+
+[347] Coues, _Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 274, identifies Goat
+Pen Creek with Upper Knife River. Maximilian's identification of this
+stream as the present White Earth River appears to accord better with
+the _Original Journals_ (i, p. 313). The White Earth rises in Coteau
+des Prairies, and flows directly south into the Missouri. Lewis and
+Clark applied the name to a river farther up, near the forks of the
+Yellowstone. See note 348, _post_, p. 372.--ED.
+
+[348] For the Assiniboin see our volume ii, p. 168, note 75. They
+separated from the Wazikute gens of the Yanktonnai Sioux before the
+middle of the seventeenth century. The Dakota stigmatize them as
+"Hohe" (rebels). Lewis and Clark name three bands of these people, of
+whom they heard along the Missouri--Gens de Canoe, Gens des Filles,
+and Gens des Grand Diables. The Gens des Filles (girl band) was
+composed of about sixty tents, its head chief being Les Yeux Gris
+(Grey Eyes). See United States Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, 1894-95,
+p. 223.--ED.
+
+[349] See p. 287, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.--ED.
+
+[350] The White Earth River of Lewis and Clark, now Muddy River, is a
+northern affluent of the Missouri, taking its name from the mud by
+which its mouth is choked. Above the mouth it is a clear and partly
+navigable stream, flowing through a valley nearly five miles wide,
+fertile although treeless. It enters the Missouri in Buford County,
+having the town of Williston at its mouth.--ED.
+
+[351] Fort Union was the most important post of the American Fur
+Company on the upper Missouri. It was commenced in the autumn of 1828
+(Maximilian says 1829), being at first known as Fort Floyd--another
+Fort Union existing higher up the river, which was abandoned, and the
+property transferred to the fort at the mouth of the Yellowstone. The
+actual site was five miles above the meeting of the rivers, on the
+north bank of the Missouri; see _Larpenteur's Journal_, i, pp. 50, 68.
+The fort was injured by fire in 1832, but substantially rebuilt, Wyeth
+(1833) pronouncing it superior to the Oregon forts of the British
+companies. Maintained until 1867, it was finally abandoned, part of
+its effects being transferred to the government post Fort Buford, some
+miles below.--ED.
+
+[352] Our knowledge of Hamilton is chiefly derived from the pages of
+Larpenteur, who says that the former was an English nobleman, whose
+real name was Archibald Palmer. Having become involved in some
+difficulties, he assumed the name James Archdale Hamilton, and having
+formed acquaintance with Kenneth McKenzie was sent by the latter as
+book-keeper to Fort Union, where he took full command during
+McKenzie's frequent absences. Hamilton was at this time about fifty
+years of age, punctilious in manner, particular in dress, and both
+respected and feared by his subordinates. Later he reverted to his own
+name and returned to St. Louis, becoming cashier for the American Fur
+Company, and dying in that city.--ED.
+
+[353] The French form for the name of this great river (Roche Jaune)
+was in early use; Chittenden (_Yellowstone National Park_ (Cincinnati,
+1895), pp. 1-7) thinks it a translation of the Indian term, derived
+from the predominant color of Yellowstone Ca�on. The first use of the
+English form appears to be in the writings of David Thompson, the
+English explorer (1798). See Elliott Coues, _New Light on the Early
+History of the Greater Northwest_ (New York, 1897), i, p. 302. The
+Crow Indians had a name for this stream, signifying "Elk."
+
+The reference is to D. B. Warden, _Statistical, Political, and
+Historical Account of the United States of North America_ (Edinburgh,
+1819), i, p. 93.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+DESCRIPTION OF FORT UNION AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD
+
+   Description of the Fort and its Vicinity--Its Inhabitants, and
+   the Fur Trade on the Upper Missouri--The Indian Branch of the
+   Assiniboins, the original Possessors of this Spot.
+
+
+The erection of Fort Union was commenced in the autumn of 1829, by Mr.
+Mc Kenzie, and is now completed, except that some of the edifices
+which were erected in haste are under repair. The fort is situated on
+an alluvial eminence, on the northern bank of the Missouri, in a
+prairie, which extends about 1,500 paces to a chain of hills, on whose
+summit there are other wide-spreading plains. The river runs at a
+distance of scarcely fifty or sixty feet from the fort, in the direction
+from west to east; it is here rather broad, and the opposite bank is
+wooded. The fort itself forms a quadrangle, the sides of which measure
+about eighty paces in length, on the exterior. The ramparts consist of
+strong pickets, sixteen or seventeen feet high, squared, and placed
+close to each other, and surmounted by a _chevaux-de-frise_. On the
+south-west and north-east ends, there are block-houses, with pointed
+roofs, two stories high, with embrasures and some cannon, which,
+though small, are fit for service. In the front of the enclosure, and
+towards the river, is the well-defended principal entrance, with a
+large folding gate. Opposite the entrance, on the other side of the
+quadrangle, is the house of the commandant; it is one story high, and
+has four handsome glass windows on each side of the door. The roof is
+spacious, and contains a large, light loft. This house is very
+commodious, and, like all the buildings of the inner quadrangle,
+constructed of poplar wood, the staple wood for building in this
+neighbourhood. In the inner quadrangle are the residences of the
+clerks, the interpreters, and the _engag�s_, the powder magazine, the
+stores, or supplies of goods and bartered skins, various workshops for
+the handicraftsmen, smiths, carpenters, &c., stables for the horses
+and cattle, rooms for receiving and entertaining the Indians; and in
+the centre is the flag-staff, around which several half-breed Indian
+hunters had erected their leathern tents. A cannon was also placed
+here, with its mouth towards the principal [pg. 188] entrance.[354]
+The fort contains about fifty or sixty horses, some mules, and an
+inconsiderable number of cattle, swine, goats, fowls, and domestic
+animals. The cattle are very fine, and the cows yield abundance of
+milk. The horses are driven, in the day-time, into the prairie,
+guarded and exercised by armed men, and, in the evening, brought back
+into the quadrangle of the fort, where the greater part of them pass
+the night in the open air. Mr. Mc Kenzie has, however, lately had a
+separate place, or park, provided for them.
+
+Fort Union is one of the principal posts of the Fur Company, because
+it is the central point of the two other trading stations, still
+higher up, towards the Rocky Mountains, and having the superintendence
+of the whole of the trade in the interior, and in the vicinity of the
+mountains. One of these two trading stations, called Fort Cass, is 200
+miles up the Yellow Stone River, and is confined to the trade with the
+Crow tribe; the other, Fort Piekann, or, as it is now called, Fort Mc
+Kenzie, is 850[355] miles up the Missouri, or about a day's journey
+from the falls of this river, and carries on the fur trade with the
+three tribes of the Blackfoot Indians. The latter station has been
+established about two years, and, as the steamers cannot often go up
+to Fort Union, they despatch keel-boats, to supply the various trading
+posts with goods for barter with the Indians. They then pass the
+winter at these stations, and in the spring carry the furs to Fort
+Union, whence they are transported, in the course of the summer, to
+St. Louis, by the steamers.
+
+The Company maintains a number of agents at these different stations;
+during their stay they marry Indian women, but leave them, without
+scruple, when they are removed to another station, or are recalled to
+the United States. The lower class of these agents, who are called
+_engag�s_, or _voyageurs_, have to act as steersmen, rowers, hunters,
+traders, &c., according to their several capabilities. They are often
+sent great distances, employed in perilous undertakings among the
+Indians, and are obliged to fight against the enemy, and many of them
+are killed every year by the arms with which the Whites themselves
+have furnished the Indians. Some of the agents of the Fur Company
+winter every year in the Rocky Mountains.[356]
+
+The proprietors of the American Fur Company were Messrs. Astor, at New
+York, General Pratte, Chouteau, Cabann�, Mc Kenzie, Laidlow, and
+Lamont; the three latter had a share [pg. 189] in the fur trade on the
+Upper Missouri only. Wild beasts and other animals, whose skins are
+valuable in the fur trade, have already diminished greatly in number
+along this river, and it is said that, in another ten years, the fur
+trade will be very inconsiderable. As the supplies along the banks of
+the Missouri decreased, the Company gradually extended the circle of
+their trading posts, as well as enterprises, and thus increased their
+income. Above 500 of their agents are in the forts of the Upper
+Missouri, and at their various trading posts; and, besides these
+individuals, who receive considerable salaries (for it is said that
+the Company yearly expend 150,000 dollars in salaries), there are in
+these prairies, and the forests of the Rocky Mountains, beaver and fur
+trappers, who live at their own cost; but whose present wants, such as
+horses, guns, powder, ball, woollen cloths, articles of clothing,
+tobacco, &c. &c., are supplied by the Company, and the scores settled,
+after the hunting season is over, by the furs which they deliver at
+the different trading posts. Many of these, when not employed in
+hunting, live at the Company's forts. They are, for the most part,
+enterprising, robust men, capital riflemen, and, from their rude
+course of life, are able to endure the greatest hardships.
+
+During the summer, the Company send out, under the direction of an
+experienced clerk, a number of strong, well-armed, mounted men, who
+convey the necessary goods and supplies, on pack-horses, to the
+trading stations, at a distance from the river; they always observe
+and enforce the required conditions of the Indians, and not
+unfrequently come to blows with them. These expeditions have to
+support themselves by the chase, consequently the men must be good
+hunters, as they subsist almost exclusively on what they procure by
+their guns. Besides the forts which I have so often named, the Company
+has also small winter posts, called log-houses, or block-houses, among
+the Indians, quickly erected, and as quickly abandoned: to these the
+Indians bring their furs, which are purchased, and sent, in the
+spring, to the trading posts. The American Fur Company has, at
+present, about twenty-three, large and small, trading posts. In the
+autumn and winter the Indian tribes generally approach nearer to these
+posts, to barter their skins; while in the spring and summer they
+devote themselves especially to catching beavers, for which they
+receive every encouragement from the merchants, who lend or advance
+them iron traps for the purpose.
+
+The animals, whose skins are objects of this trade, and the annual
+average of the income derived from skins, may be pretty well
+ascertained from the following statement:
+
+1. Beavers: about 25,000 skins. They are sold in packs of 100 lbs.
+weight each, put up separately, and tied together. There are,
+generally, about sixty large skins in a pack; if they are smaller, of
+course there are more skins. A large beaver skin weighs about two
+pounds--sometimes more. The usual price is four dollars a pound.[357]
+
+[pg. 190] 2. Otters: 200 to 300 skins.
+
+3. Buffalo cow skins: 40,000 to 50,000. Ten buffalo hides go to the
+pack.
+
+4. Canadian weasel (_Musetela Canadensis_): 500 to 600.
+
+5. Martin (pine or beech martin): about the same quantity.
+
+6. Lynx; the northern lynx (_Felis Canadensis_): 1,000 to 2,000.
+
+7. Lynx; the southern or wild cat (_Felis rufa_): ditto.
+
+8. Red foxes (_Canis fulvus_): 2,000.
+
+9. Cross foxes: 200 to 300.
+
+10. Silver foxes: twenty to thirty. Sixty dollars are often paid for a
+single skin.
+
+11. Minks (_Mustela vison_): 2,000.
+
+12. Musk-rats (_Ondathra_): from 1,000 to 100,000.[358] According to
+Captain Back, half a million of these skins are annually imported into
+London, as this animal is found in equal abundance as far as the
+coasts of the Frozen Ocean.
+
+13. Deer (_Cervus Virginianus_ and _macrotis_): from 20,000 to 30,000.
+
+Beyond Council Bluffs, scarcely any articles are bartered by the
+Indians--especially the Joways, Konzas, and the Osages--except the
+skins of the _Cervus Virginianus_, which is found in great abundance,
+but is said to have fallen off there likewise very considerably.
+
+The elk (_Cervus Canadensis_, or _major_), is not properly
+comprehended in the trade, as its skin is too thick and heavy, and is,
+therefore, used for home consumption. The buffalo skin is taken, as
+before observed, from the cows only, as the leather of the bulls is
+too heavy. The wolf skins are not at all sought by the company, that
+is to say, they do not send out any hunters to procure them; but, if
+the Indians bring any, they are bought not to create any
+dissatisfaction, and then they are sold at about a dollar a-piece. The
+Indians, however, have frequently nothing to offer for barter but
+their dresses, and painted buffalo robes.
+
+The support of so large an establishment as that at Fort Union
+requires frequent hunting excursions into the prairie; and Mr. Mc
+Kenzie, therefore, maintained here several experienced hunters of a
+mixed race, who made weekly excursions to the distance of twenty or
+more miles into the prairie, sought the buffalo herds, and, after they
+had killed a sufficient number, returned home with their mules well
+laden. The flesh of the cows is very good, especially the tongues,
+which are smoked in great numbers, and then sent down to St. Louis.
+The colossal marrow-bones are considered quite a delicacy by the
+hunters and by the Indians. The consumption of [pg. 191] this animal is
+immense in North America, and is as indispensable to the Indians as
+the reindeer is to the Laplanders, and the seal to the Esquimaux. It
+is difficult to obtain an exact estimate of the consumption of this
+animal, which is yearly decreasing and driven further inland. In a
+recent year, the Fur Company sent 42,000 of these hides down the
+river, which were sold, in the United States, at four dollars a-piece.
+Fort Union alone consumes about 600 to 800 buffaloes annually, and the
+other forts in proportion. The numerous Indian tribes subsist almost
+entirely on these animals, sell their skins after retaining a
+sufficient supply for their clothing, tents, &c., and the agents of
+the Company recklessly shoot down these noble animals for their own
+pleasure, often not making the least use of them, except taking out
+the tongue. Whole herds of them are often drowned in the Missouri;
+nay, I have been assured that, in some rivers, 1,800 and more of their
+dead bodies were found in one place. Complete dams are formed of the
+bodies of these animals in some of the morasses of the rivers; from
+this we may form some idea of the decrease of the buffaloes, which are
+now found on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, where they were
+not originally met with, but whither they have been driven.
+
+Besides the buffalo, the hunters also shoot the elk, the deer, and,
+occasionally, the bighorn. The former especially are very numerous on
+the Yellow Stone River. All other provisions, such as pork, hams,
+flour, sugar, coffee, wine, and other articles of luxury for the
+tables of the chief officers and the clerks, are sent from St. Louis
+by the steamer. The maize is procured from the neighbouring Indian
+nations. Vegetables do not thrive at Fort Union, which Mr. Mc Kenzie
+ascribes to the long-continued drought and high winds.
+
+The neighbourhood around Fort Union is, as I have observed, a wide,
+extended prairie, intersected, in a northerly direction, by a chain of
+rather high, round, clay-slate, and sand-stone hills, from the summits
+of which we had a wide-spreading view over the country on the other
+side of the Missouri, and of its junction with the Yellow Stone, of
+which Mr. Bodmer made a very faithful drawing.[359] We observed on the
+highest points, and at certain intervals of this mountain chain,
+singular stone signals, set up by the Assiniboins, of blocks of
+granite, or other large stones, on the top of which is placed a
+buffalo skull,[360] which we were told the Indians place there to
+attract the herds of buffaloes, and thereby to ensure a successful
+hunt. The strata of sand-stone occurring in the above-mentioned hills
+are filled, at least in part, with impressions of the leaves of
+phanerogamic plants, resembling the species still growing in the
+country.[361] A whitish-grey and reddish-yellow sand-stone are found
+here. In all these prairies of North America, as well as in the plains
+of northern Europe, those remarkable blocks or fragments of red
+granite, are everywhere scattered, which have afforded the geologist
+subject for many hypotheses. Major Long's Expedition to St. Peter's
+River[362] mentions blocks of granite in the prairies of Illinois;
+they are found in abundance in the north, about St. Peter's [pg. 192]
+River, in the State of Ohio, &c. Other boulders, however, of quartz,
+flint, slate, &c., evidently formed by water, are found everywhere in
+the prairies. The hills were partly bare, and very few flowers were in
+blossom; the whole country was covered with short, dry grass, among
+which there were numerous round spots with tufts of _Cactus ferox_,
+which was only partly in flower. Another _cactus_, resembling
+_mammillaris_, with dark red flowers, yellow on the inner side, was
+likewise abundant. Of the first kind it seems that two exactly similar
+varieties, probably species, are found everywhere here; both have
+fine, large, bright yellow flowers, sometimes a greenish-yellow, and,
+on their first expanding, are often whitish, and the outer side of the
+petals, with a reddish tinge; but in one species, the stamin� are
+bright yellow, like the flower itself, and, in the other, of a
+brownish blood red, with yellow anthers. The true flowering time of
+these plants begins at the end of June.
+
+The scene of destruction, which has often been mentioned, namely, the
+whitening bones of buffaloes and stags, recurs everywhere in the
+prairie, and the great dogs of the fort frequently seek for such
+animal remains. Between the hills, there are, sometimes, in the
+ravines, little thickets of oak, ash, negundo maple, elm, bird-cherry,
+and some others, in which many kinds of birds, particularly the
+starling, blackbird, &c., build their nests. The king-bird and the red
+thrush are likewise found. Of mammalia, besides those in the river,
+namely, the beaver, the otter, and the muskrat, there are, about Fort
+Union, in the prairie, great numbers of the pretty little squirrel,
+the skin of which is marked with long stripes, and regular spots
+between them (_Spermophilus Hoodii_, Sab.), which have been
+represented by Richardson and Cuvier. The Anglo-Americans of these
+parts call it the ground squirrel; and the Canadians, _l'�cureuil
+Suisse_. From its figure and agility, it is a genuine squirrel, and,
+therefore, rather different from the true marmot arctomys. The
+burrows, in which these animals live, are often carried to a great
+extent underground. The entrance is not much larger than a mouse hole,
+and has no mound of earth thrown up, like those of the prairie dogs.
+Besides these, there are several kinds of mice, particularly _Mus
+leucopus_. The flat hills of the goffer are likewise seen; this is a
+kind of large sand rat, living underground, of which I did not obtain
+a specimen.
+
+Not far above and below the fort there were woods on the banks of the
+Missouri, consisting of poplars, willows, ash, elm, negundo maple,
+&c., with a thick underwood of hazel, roses, which were now in flower,
+and dog-berry, rendered almost impassable by blackberry bushes and the
+burdock (_Xanthium strumarium_), the thorny fruit of which stuck to
+the clothes. In these thickets, where we collected many plants, the
+mosquitos were extremely troublesome. In such places we frequently
+heard the deep base note of the frogs; and in those places which were
+not damp, there were patches of two kinds of solidago; likewise _Gaura
+coccinea_ (Pursh.), and _Cristaria coccinea_, two extremely beautiful
+plants; and, on the banks of the river, the white-flowering _Bartonia
+ornata_ (Pursh.), and the _Helianthus petiolaris_ (Nutt.), which were
+everywhere in flower, &c. &c.
+
+[pg. 193] In the forest, a pretty small mouse was frequent, as well as
+the large wood rat, already mentioned. Of birds, there are some
+species of woodpeckers, the Carolina pigeon, numerous blackbirds
+(_Quiscalus ferrugineus_), thrushes, several smaller birds, the
+beautiful bluefinch, first described by Say, the American fly-catcher,
+and several others. The whip-poor-will is not found so high up the
+Missouri. The river does not abound in fish; it produces, however, two
+species of cat-fish, and soft shell turtles, but which are not often
+caught.
+
+The climate about Fort Union is very changeable. We had often 76�
+Fahrenheit, and storms of thunder and lightning alternating with heavy
+rains. Other days in the month of June were cold, the thermometer
+falling to 56�. Winds prevail here the greater part of the year, and
+therefore the temperature is usually dry. The weather, while we were
+there, was uncommonly rainy. Spring is generally the wettest season;
+the summer is dry; autumn the finest time of the year; the winter is
+severe, and often of long continuance. The snow is often three, four,
+or six feet deep in many places, and then dog sledges are used, and
+the Indians wear snow shoes. The winter of 1831-1832 had been
+remarkably mild in these parts. The Missouri had scarcely been frozen
+for three days together; but the spring, however, set in very late. On
+the 30th of May, 1832, the forests were still without verdure; and
+there was, in that month, such dreadful weather, that an Indian was
+frozen to death in the prairie: a snow storm overtook him and a girl,
+who escaped with one of her feet frozen. In general, however, the
+climate is said to be very healthy. There are no endemic disorders,
+and the fine water of the Missouri, which, notwithstanding the sand
+mixed with it, is light and cold, does not a little contribute to make
+the inhabitants attain an advanced age. There are no physicians here,
+and the people affirm they have no need of them. Persons, whom we
+questioned on the subject, said, "We don't want doctors; we have no
+diseases." In the preceding spring, however, there had been more
+sickness than usual on the Missouri, and at the time of our visit,
+the approach of the cholera was feared. Colds are, probably, the most
+frequent complaints, the changes in the temperature being sudden, the
+dwellings slight and ill built, and the people exposing themselves
+without any precaution.
+
+Fort Union is built in the territory of the Assiniboins, of whom a
+certain number generally live there. At this time they had left,
+because the herds of buffaloes were gone to a distant part of the
+country. The Assiniboins are real Dacotas, or Sioux, and form a branch
+which separated from the rest a considerable time ago, in consequence
+of a quarrel among them. They still call themselves by that name,
+though they seem generally to pronounce it Nacota. They parted from
+the rest of the tribe, after a battle which they had with each other
+on Devil's Lake, and removed further to the north. The tribe is said
+to consist of 28,000 souls, of whom 7,000 are warriors. They live in
+3,000 tents; the territory which they claim as theirs, is between the
+Missouri and the Saskatschawan, bounded by lake Winipick on the north,
+extending, on the east, to Assiniboin River, and, on the west, to Milk
+River. The English and Americans sometimes [pg. 194] call them Stone
+Indians, which, however, properly speaking, is the name of only one
+branch.
+
+The Assiniboins are divided into the following branches or bands:
+
+1. Itscheabin� (_les gens des filles_).
+
+2. Jatonabin� (_les gens des roches_). The Stone Indians of the
+English. Captain Franklin, in his first journey to the Frozen Ocean,
+speaks of these Indians, and observes that they are little to be
+depended upon.[363] He says that they call themselves Eascab, a name
+with which, however, I have not met.
+
+3. Otopachgnato (_les gens du large_).
+
+4. Otaopabin� (_les gens des canots_).
+
+5. Tschantoga (_les gens des bois_). They live near the Fort des
+Prairies, not far from Saskatschawan River.[364]
+
+6. Wat�pachnato (_les gens de l'age_).
+
+7. Tanintauei (_les gens des osayes_).[365]
+
+8. Ch�bin (_les gens des montagnes_).[366]
+
+In their personal appearance the Assiniboins differ little from the
+true Sioux; those whom we saw were, perhaps, on the whole, not so tall
+and slender as the Sioux. Their faces are broad, with high cheeks, and
+broad maxillary bones. They frequently do not wear their hair so long
+as the Sioux; many of them have it scarcely hanging down to the
+shoulders; some, however, let it grow to a great length, and braid it
+in two or three tails; nay, some let it hang like a lion's mane over
+their faces and about their heads. Several wore round white leather
+caps, others feathers in their hair, or a narrow strip of skin
+fastened over the crown. A remarkable head-dress is that with two
+horns, of which I shall have to speak in the sequel. They paint their
+faces red, or reddish-brown, and, when they have killed an enemy,
+quite black: the hair in front is often daubed with clay; the upper
+part of the body is seldom naked in winter time, when they wear
+leather shirts, with a large round rosette on the breast, which is
+embroidered with dyed porcupine quills, of the most vivid colours; and
+they have often another exactly similar ornament on their back. The
+sleeves of these leather shirts are adorned with tufts of their
+enemies' hair. The outer seam of the leggins, as among all the other
+tribes, has an embroidered stripe of coloured porcupine quills, and
+trimmed in the same manner with human or dyed horsehair. In the summer
+time the upper part of the body is often naked, and the feet bare, but
+they are never without the large buffalo robe, which is often
+curiously painted. Their necklaces and other ornaments are similar to
+those of the other nations which have already been described. They,
+however, very frequently wear the collar of the bears' claws, but not
+the long strings of beads [pg. 195] and dentalium shells, which are used
+by the Manitaries. Most of the Assiniboins have guns,[367] the stocks
+of which they ornament with bright yellow nails, and with small pieces
+of red cloth on the ferrels for the ramrod. Like all the Indians, they
+carry, besides, a separate ramrod in their hand, a large powder-horn,
+which they obtain from the Fur Company, and a leather pouch for the
+balls, which is made by themselves, and often neatly ornamented, or
+hung with rattling pieces of lead, and trimmed with coloured cloth.
+All have bows and arrows; many have these only, and no gun. The case
+for the bow and the quiver are of the skin of some animal, often of
+the otter, fastened to each other; and to the latter the tail of the
+animal, at full length, is appended. The bow is partly covered with
+elk horn, has a very strong string of twisted sinews of animals, and
+is wound round in different places with the same, to strengthen it.
+The bow is often adorned with coloured cloth, porcupine quills, and
+white strips of ermine, but, on the whole, this weapon does not differ
+from that of the Sioux. Most of them carry clubs in their hands, of
+various shapes, and the fan of eagles' or swans' wings is
+indispensable to an elegant dandy.
+
+The Assiniboins being hunters, live in movable leather tents, with
+which they roam about, and never cultivate the ground. Their chief
+subsistence they derive from the herds of buffaloes, which they follow
+in the summer, generally from the rivers, to a distance in the
+prairie; in the winter, to the woods on the banks of the rivers,
+because these herds, at that time, seek for shelter and food among the
+thickets. They are particularly dexterous in making what are called
+buffalo parks, when a tract is surrounded with scarecrows, made of
+stones, branches of trees, &c., and the terrified animals are driven
+into a narrow gorge, in which the hunters lie concealed, as
+represented and described by Franklin, in his first journey to the
+Frozen Ocean.[368] There was such a park ten miles from Fort Union,
+where I was told there were great numbers of the bones of those
+animals. On such occasions the Indians sometimes kill 700 or 800
+buffaloes. Of the dried and powdered flesh, mixed with tallow, the
+women prepare the well-known pemmican, which is an important article
+of food for these people in their wanderings. These Indians frequently
+suffer hunger, when the chase or other circumstances are unfavourable;
+this is particularly the case of the northern nations, the Crees, the
+Assiniboins, the Chippeways, and others, as may be seen in
+Tanner,[369] Captain Franklin, and other writers, when they consider
+dead dogs as a delicacy. In the north, entire families perish from
+hunger. They eat every kind of animals, except serpents; horses and
+dogs are very frequently killed for food, which is the reason why they
+keep so many, particularly of the latter.
+
+In comparison with the other nations, the Assiniboins have not many
+horses; their bridles and saddles are like those of the Manitaries.
+The rope of buffalo hair, which is fastened to the [pg. 196] lower jaw
+as a bridle, is always very long, and trails on the grass when the
+animal is not tied up. Many have large parchment stirrups in the shape
+of shoes, and all carry a short whip in their hand, generally made of
+the end of an elk's horn, and gaily ornamented. Their dogs are of
+great help to the women in their heavy work; and they are loaded with
+the baggage in the same manner as among the Manitaries.
+
+In general, the Assiniboins have the customs as well as the
+superstitious notions of the Sioux; for an account of which, Major
+Long's "Expedition to St. Peter's River," may be consulted. They keep
+on good terms with the Fur Company, for their own interest; they are,
+however, horse-stealers, and not to be trusted; and when one meets
+them alone in the prairie, there is great danger of being robbed.
+Smoking is a favourite enjoyment with them, but, as they live at a
+distance from the red pipe clay, the bowls of their pipes are
+generally made of a blackish stone, or black clay, and are different
+in shape from those of the Dacotas.[370] The pipe tube is ornamented
+like those of the other tribes.[371] They generally smoke the herb
+kinikenick, which we have before mentioned, or the leaves of the
+bear-berry (_Arbutus uva ursi_), mixed with genuine tobacco. To clean
+their pipes they make use of a painted stick, bound round with quills,
+dyed of various colours, and with a neat tassel at the end of it,[372]
+which is generally stuck in their hair.
+
+  [Illustration: Assiniboin pipes]
+
+  [Illustration: Pipe for warlike expeditions]
+
+Many games are in use among these Indians; one of these is a round
+game, in which one holds in his hand some small stones, of which the
+others must guess the number, or pay a forfeit. This game is known
+also to the Blackfeet. Another is that in which they play with four
+small bones and four yellow nails, to which one of each sort is added;
+they are laid upon a flat [pg. 197] wooden plate, which is struck, so
+that they fly up and fall back into the plate, and you gain, or lose,
+according as they lie together on one side, and the stake is often
+very high.
+
+Among the amusements and festivities are their eating feasts, when the
+guests must eat everything set before them, if they will not give
+offence. If one of the guests is not able to eat any more, he gives
+his neighbour a small wooden stick, and the plate with food, the
+meaning of which is that he will make him a present of a horse, on the
+next day, if he will undertake to empty the plate; and the young men
+do this in order to gain reputation. The Assiniboins are brave in
+battle, and often very daring. They frequently steal into the villages
+of the Mandans and Manitaries, shoot the inhabitants in or near their
+huts, or steal their horses.
+
+They believe in a creator, or lord of life (Unkan-Tange), and also in
+an evil spirit (Unkan-Schidja), who torments people with various
+disorders, against which their sorcerers or physicians (medicine men)
+use the drum and the rattle to expel the evil spirit. Like the Crees
+and several other tribes, they believe that thunder is produced by an
+enormous bird, which some of them pretend to have seen. Some ascribe
+lightning to the Great Spirit, and believe that he is angry when the
+storm is violent. They believe that the dead go to a country in the
+south, where the good and brave find women and buffaloes, while the
+wicked or cowardly are confined to an island, where they are destitute
+of all the pleasures of life. Those who, during their lives, have
+conducted themselves bravely, are not to be deposited in trees when
+they die, but their corpses are to be laid on the ground, it being
+taken for granted that, in case of need, they will help themselves. Of
+course they are generally devoured by the wolves, to secure them from
+which, however, they are covered with wood and stones. Other corpses
+are usually placed on trees, as among the Sioux, and sometimes on
+scaffolds. They are tied up in buffalo hides, and three or four are
+sometimes laid in one tree.
+
+The language of the Assiniboins is, on the whole, the same as that of
+the Sioux, altered by their long separation, and the influence of time
+and circumstances. Like them, they have many gutturals and nasal
+tones; in general, however, it is an harmonious language, which a
+German pronounces without difficulty.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[354] For a view of this fort see Plate 61, in the accompanying atlas,
+our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[355] This is the distance by water; on horseback, the journey has
+been accomplished in ten days.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[356] On this subject see "Astoria," and "Adventures of Captain
+Bonneville," also "Ross Cox's Adventures on the Columbia River," p.
+198. The dress of the white agents of the Company is made of cloth,
+like our own; but the hunters often wear a leather dress, ornamented,
+for the most part, in the Indian fashion, while the common _engag�s_
+wear white blanket coats, such as I have described when speaking of
+the inhabitants of Indiana, on the Wabash. They are mostly shod in
+Indian mocassins, a dozen pair of which may be purchased from the
+Indian women for one dollar, when they are not ornamented. The
+hunters, here, maintain that these Indian shoes are better adapted to
+the prairies than our European ones, as they do not become so
+slippery. They are frequently soled with elk hide, or parchment. The
+worst is, that they are easily penetrated by the prickles of the
+cactus, and on this account we greatly preferred our European shoes.
+At Fort Union, artisans of almost every description are to be met
+with, such as smiths, masons, carpenters, joiners, coopers, tailors,
+shoemakers, hatters, &c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[357] Some idea may be formed of the enormous quantity of beavers
+killed every year, from the circumstance that the Hudson's Bay Company
+sends to London alone 50,000, this animal being found as far as the
+coasts of the Frozen Ocean.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[358] At Rock River, which falls into the Mississippi, the Indians
+caught, in 1825, about 130,000 musk-rats; in the following year, about
+half the number; and, in about two years after, these animals were
+scarcely to be met with. Previous to this time, an Indian caught, in
+thirty days, as many as 1,600 of them. In South America, there is only
+one species of wild animal, known to me, whose skins are collected in
+large quantities. According to D'Orbigny, in the first six months of
+1828, above 150,000 dozen Quiyaa were sold, in Corrientes, at from
+fifteen to eighteen francs the dozen. The Indians hunt this animal,
+which lives in the morasses, with dogs, and shoot it with
+arrows.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[359] See Plate 62, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[360] See Plate 15, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[361] Unfortunately, all these interesting specimens were destroyed in
+the fire on board the steam-boat.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Reference is made to the burning of the
+"Assiniboine." See note 179, _ante_, p. 240.
+
+[362] William Keating, _Narrative of an Expedition to the source of
+St. Peter's River, performed in the year 1823, under command of
+Stephen H. Long_ (Philadelphia, 1824).--ED.
+
+[363] Sir John Franklin, _Narrative of a Journey to the shores of the
+Polar Sea in the years 1819, 1820, 1821, and 1822_ (London, 1823), p.
+104.--ED.
+
+[364] Fort des Prairies was at different periods applied to various
+Hudson's Bay Company posts. Apparently this was the fort on the site
+of Edmonton, for which see Franch�re's _Narrative_, in our volume vi,
+p. 364, note 177.--ED.
+
+[365] The word _osayes_ is one of the many Canadian terms which are
+mixed with the French of that country, and means bones.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[366] Consult on the bands or gentes of the Assiniboin, J. O. Dorsey,
+"Siouan Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, 1893-94, pp. 222,
+223.--ED.
+
+[367] The common Mackinaw guns, which the Fur Company obtain from
+England at the rate of eight dollars a-piece, and which are sold to
+the Indians for the value of thirty dollars.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[368] _Op. cit._ in note 361, [_ante_] p. 112.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[369] The reference is to Edwin James (editor) _Narrative of Captivity
+and Adventures during thirty years' residence among the Indians in the
+interior of North America by John Tanner_ (New York, 1830). John
+Tanner, a boy of nine years, was captured in Kentucky about 1790. He
+passed the larger part of his life in the northern woods. In 1818 he
+sought his relatives in Kentucky while his brother Edward was
+searching for him near Mackinac. For some years he was employed as
+interpreter at Sault Ste. Marie, but having become an Indian in habit
+he shot (1836) and killed James L. Schoolcraft and fled to the
+wilderness where he died about 1847 (but see _Minnesota Historical
+Collections_, vi, p. 114). His _Narrative_ was much quoted by
+contemporary writers.--ED.
+
+[370] See p. 361, for illustration of Assiniboin pipes.--ED.
+
+[371] The Indians on the Upper Missouri have another kind of tobacco
+pipe, the bowl of which is in the same line as the tube, and which
+they use only on their warlike expeditions. As the aperture of the
+pipe is more inclined downwards than usual, the fire can never be
+seen, so as to betray the smoker, who lies on the ground, and holds
+the pipe on one side.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See p. 361, for illustration of pipe for warlike
+expeditions.
+
+[372] See Plate 81, figure 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+     Important
+     Historical Publications
+     OF
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+
+     Full descriptive circulars will be mailed
+     on application
+
+
+
+     AUDUBON'S WESTERN
+     JOURNAL: 1849-1850
+
+
+     Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to
+     Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico
+     and Arizona to the gold-fields of California
+
+     BY
+     _JOHN W. AUDUBON_
+
+
+     With biographical memoir by his daughter
+     MARIA R. AUDUBON
+
+     _Edited by_
+     FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER
+     Professor of American History, University of Kansas
+
+     _With folded map, portrait, and original drawings_
+
+John W. Audubon, son of the famous ornithologist, was a member of
+Colonel Webb's California Expedition which started from New York City
+for the gold-fields in February, 1849. The Journal consists of careful
+notes which Audubon made en route. It was written with a view to
+publication, accompanied by a series of sketches made at intervals
+during the journey; but owing to Audubon's pre-occupation with other
+affairs, the plan of publication was never realized.
+
+The Journal is, therefore, here published for the first time, and is
+illustrated by the author's original sketches, carefully reproduced.
+It gives a vivid first-hand picture of the difficulties of an overland
+journey to California, and of the excitements, dangers, and privations
+of life in the gold-fields. An additional interest attaches to this
+account from the fact that Colonel Webb deserted his party, which
+consisted of nearly a hundred men, when the expedition reached Roma,
+and the command then by unanimous choice of the party devolved upon
+Audubon. This situation, as modestly related by the author, displays
+his sympathetic nature, as well as his keenness and ability as a
+leader.
+
+Besides being a fascinating story of adventure, the Journal throws
+much light on the interesting years immediately following the
+discovery of gold in California. John W. Audubon was (with his brother
+Victor G. Audubon) the assistant of his father, and executed much of
+the artistic work on the famous "Quadrupeds of North America." His
+pictures of the spreading of the gold craze in the East, the journey
+through Mexico, and the social conditions after reaching California,
+show him to be a keen and faithful observer.
+
+The Editor, Professor F. H. Hodder, of the University of Kansas, has
+supplied complete annotation explaining matters of topography, natural
+science, and historical and personal allusions. Professor Hodder in
+his editorial work has drawn liberally upon his special knowledge of
+the history and geography of the West and Southwest. A biographical
+memoir has been written by Miss Maria R. Audubon. Being the daughter
+of the author, she has availed herself of a large amount of auxiliary
+material not accessible to any other biographer.
+
+Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper, and
+illustrated with folded map, portrait, and plates, in one volume, 8vo,
+about 225 pages, cloth, uncut.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+     PERSONAL NARRATIVE
+     OF
+     _Travels in Virginia, Maryland,
+     Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana,
+     Kentucky; and of a Residence in
+     the Illinois Territory: 1817-1818_
+
+     BY
+     ELIAS PYM FORDHAM
+
+     With facsimiles of the author's sketches and plans
+
+     Edited with Notes, Introduction, Index, etc., by
+     FREDERIC AUSTIN OGG, A.M.
+     _Author of "The Opening of the Mississippi"_
+
+
+=AN UNPUBLISHED MS.=
+
+This hitherto unpublished MS., which is a real literary and historical
+find, was written in 1817-18 by a young Englishman of excellent
+education who assisted Morris Birkbeck in establishing his Illinois
+settlement. The author writes anonymously, but by a careful study of
+various allusions in the _Narrative_ and from information furnished by
+the family in possession of the MS., has been identified as Elias Pym
+Fordham. Landing at Baltimore, he reached the West by way of
+Philadelphia, Pittsburg, and the Ohio River to Cincinnati, describing
+the people and the country as he went along.
+
+
+=THE MIDDLE WEST IN 1817=
+
+Fordham was an especially well-qualified observer of the Middle West
+because of the numerous journeys he undertook, on land-hunting trips
+for new emigrants, in the service of Mr. Birkbeck. These journeys led
+him into Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky; and he never omits the
+opportunity to make frank and pointed comment on society, manners, and
+morals, as well as careful observations of the face of the country and
+of industrial conditions. The style is quite unaffected and has much
+natural charm and sprightliness; and the fact that he wrote
+anonymously made him much more free in his comments on contemporary
+society than would otherwise have been possible.
+
+
+=LOCAL AND PIONEER HISTORY=
+
+These journeys also gave him unexampled opportunities for contact with
+the pioneers of Middle West, and his journal is consequently rich in
+_personalia_ of early settlers, remarks on contemporary history and
+politics, state of trade, agriculture, prices, and information on
+local history not obtainable elsewhere. He also visited the larger
+cities and gives very interesting accounts of Pittsburg and
+Cincinnati, accompanied by original sketches and plans. In Kentucky he
+had the opportunity to study slavery; and although at first prejudiced
+against this institution he finally reached the conclusion that the
+slave states offered better chances of successful settlement than the
+free states.
+
+
+=VALUE FOR READERS AND STUDENTS=
+
+The publication of Fordham's _Narrative _with introduction, extensive
+annotations, and index by professor Frederic A. Ogg, one of the best
+authorities on the history of the Mississippi Valley, will make
+accessible to historical students much new and important material,
+besides giving the general reader a book of vital and absorbing
+interest.
+
+Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper, and
+illustrated with original sketches and plans, in one volume, 8vo,
+about 180 pages, cloth, uncut.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+"_AN AUTHORITY OF THE HIGHEST IMPORTANCE_"--Winsor
+
+
+     THE
+     PRESENT STATE
+     OF THE
+     EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS
+     ON THE
+     MISSISIPPI;
+
+     WITH
+     A GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THAT RIVER.
+
+     ILLUSTRATED BY
+     PLANS AND DRAUGHTS.
+
+     By Captain PHILIP PITTMAN.
+
+     LONDON.
+     Printed for J. NOURSE, Bookseller to His MAJESTY.
+     MDCCLXX
+
+     _Edited with Introduction, Notes, and Index, by_
+     FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER
+     PROFESSOR OF AMERICAN HISTORY, UNIVERSITY OF KANSAS
+
+
+This exceedingly rare work was issued in London, in 1770, and has been
+so much in demand by historical students and collectors of Americana
+that even imperfect copies of the original are now almost impossible
+to obtain at any price. Our text is from a perfect copy of the
+original with all the folding maps and plans carefully reproduced.
+
+*Only two copies have been offered for sale during the past five
+years; one copy sold at $95.00, and the other is now offered by a
+reliable firm of booksellers at $105.00.
+
+
+
+
+
+     PITTMAN'S MISSISSIPPI SETTLEMENTS
+
+
+_A valuable source work_
+
+Pittman's _Mississippi Settlements_ contains much valuable original
+material for the study of the French and Spanish Settlements of old
+Louisiana, West Florida, and the Illinois country. The author, Captain
+Philip Pittman, was a British military engineer, and gives an accurate
+general view of the Mississippi Settlements just after the English
+came into possession of the eastern half of the valley by the Peace of
+1763. His account, written from personal observation, is rich in
+allusions to the political, social, and military readjustments
+resulting from this change of possession. "A comprehensive account of
+the Illinois country and its inhabitants, with sketches in detail of
+the several French posts and villages situated therein, as personally
+viewed by him in 1766-67.... It contains, in a compact form, much
+useful and reliable information (nowhere else to be found) concerning
+the Mississippi Valley and its people at that transition
+period."--WALLACE: _Illinois and Louisiana under French Rule_.
+
+
+_The earliest English account_
+
+Dr. William F. Poole in Winsor's _Narrative and Critical History of
+America_ says: "It is the earliest English account of those
+settlements, and, as an authority in early western history, is of the
+highest importance. He [Pittman] was a military engineer, and for five
+years was employed in surveying the Mississippi River and exploring
+the western country. The excellent plans which accompany the work,
+artistically engraved on copper, add greatly to its value."
+
+
+_Annotation by Professor Hodder_
+
+An introduction, notes, and index have been supplied by Professor
+Frank Heywood Hodder, who has made a special study of American
+historical geography. The value of the reprint is thus enhanced by
+annotation embodying the results of the latest researches in this
+field of American history.
+
+
+The edition is limited to 500 copies, each numbered. It is handsomely
+printed in large Caslon type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper. With
+folding maps and plans. Large 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt top.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     _THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY_
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+"We cannot thoroughly understand our own history, local or
+National, without some knowledge of these routes of trade and
+war."--_The Outlook._
+
+
+     The Historic Highways of America
+
+     by ARCHER BUTLER HULBERT
+
+A series of monographs on the History of America as portrayed in the
+evolution of its highways of War, Commerce, and Social Expansion.
+
+Comprising the following volumes:
+
+     I--Paths of the Mound-Building Indians and Great Game Animals.
+    II--Indian Thoroughfares.
+   III--Washington's Road: The First Chapter of the Old French War.
+    IV--Braddock's Road.
+     V--The Old Glade (Forbes's) Road.
+    VI--Boone's Wilderness Road.
+   VII--Portage Paths: The Keys of the Continent.
+  VIII--Military Roads of the Mississippi Basin.
+    IX--Waterways of Westward Expansion.
+     X--The Cumberland Road.
+    XI, XII--Pioneer Roads of America, two volumes.
+  XIII, XIV--The Great American Canals, two volumes.
+    XV--The Future of Road-Making in America.
+   XVI--Index.
+
+Sixteen volumes, crown 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt tops. A LIMITED EDITION
+only printed direct from type, and the type distributed. Each volume
+handsomely printed in large type on Dickinson's hand-made paper, and
+illustrated with maps, plates, and facsimiles.
+
+Published a volume each two months, beginning September, 1902.
+
+PRICE, volumes 1 and 2, $2.00 net each; volumes 3 to 16, $2.50 net
+each.
+
+FIFTY SETS PRINTED ON LARGE PAPER, each numbered and _signed by the
+author_. Bound in cloth, with paper label, uncut, gilt tops. Price,
+$5.00 net per volume.
+
+"The fruit not only of the study of original historical sources in
+documents found here and in England, but of patient and enthusiastic
+topographical studies, in the course of which every foot of these old
+historic highways has been traced and traversed."--_The Living Age._
+
+"The volumes already issued show Mr. Hulbert to be an earnest and
+enthusiastic student, and a reliable guide."--_Out West._
+
+"A look through these volumes shows most conclusively that a new
+source of history is being developed--a source which deals with the
+operation of the most effective causes influencing human
+affairs."--_Iowa Journal of History and Politics._
+
+"The successive volumes in the series may certainly be awaited with
+great interest, for they promise to deal with the most romantic
+phases of the awakening of America at the dawn of occidental
+civilization."--_Boston Transcript._
+
+ "The publishers have done their part toward putting forth with
+proper dignity this important work. It is issued on handsome paper and
+is illustrated with many maps, diagrams, and old prints."--_Chicago
+Evening Post._
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH
+AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Interior of North America,
+Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843), by Alexander
+Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites,
+Translated by Hannibal Evans Lloyd, Illustrated by Karl Bodmer</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Travels in the Interior of North America, Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843)</p>
+<p>       Early Western Travels, 1748-1846, Volume XXII</p>
+<p>Author: Alexander Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied</p>
+<p>Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites</p>
+<p>Release Date: February 7, 2012  [eBook #38784]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4 class="center">E-text prepared by Greg Bergquist, Melissa McDaniel,<br />
+    and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+    from page images generously made available by<br />
+    Internet Archive/American Libraries<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/americana">http://www.archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+      <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav22thwa">
+      http://www.archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav22thwa</a>
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="tnbox">
+<p>Transcriber's note:</p>
+<p>This book's editors sought to "reproduce the old text as closely as practicable, with
+its typographic and orthographic peculiarities."  The transcriber has honored that intent.</p>
+<p> The pagination of the original edition which is being reprinted is indicated by enclosing within
+a box the number of the page at its beginning, e.g. <span class="opage">24</span>.</p>
+<p>Unnumbered illustration pages have been moved to the closest reference in the text.</p>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1>Early Western Travels</h1>
+<div id="title_pages">
+<p class="sm_date">1748-1846</p>
+<hr />
+<p class="vol_no">Volume XXII</p>
+
+<p class="series_title">Early Western Travels</p>
+
+<p class="lg_date">1748-1846</p>
+
+<p class="description">A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best
+and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive
+of the Aborigines and Social and
+Economic Conditions in the Middle
+and Far West, during the Period
+of Early American Settlement</p>
+
+<p class="edited">Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by</p>
+
+<p class="reuben">Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.</p>
+
+<p class="editor">Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's
+New Discovery," etc.</p>
+
+<p class="vol_no">Volume XXII</p>
+
+<p class="vol_description">Part I of Maximilian, Prince of Wied's, Travels in the
+Interior of North America, 1832-1834</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter p4">
+<img src="images/illo_004.jpg" width="87" height="100" alt="logo" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="cleveland">Cleveland, Ohio</p>
+<p class="arthur">The Arthur H. Clark Company</p>
+<p class="pub_date">1906</p>
+
+<p class="copyright"><span class="smcap">Copyright 1906, by</span><br />
+THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY</p>
+<hr />
+<p class="all_rights">ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</p>
+
+<p class="lakeside">The Lakeside Press</p>
+<p class="rrdonnelley">R. R. DONNELLEY &amp; SONS COMPANY<br />
+CHICAGO</p>
+</div>
+
+<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXII</h2>
+
+<div id="toc">
+
+<p class="section"><span class="section_head"><span class="smcap">Preface to Volumes XXII-XXIV.</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>The Editor</i></span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="section"><span class="smcap section_head">Travels in the Interior of North America.</span> [Part I,
+being chapters i-xv of the London edition, 1843.] <i>Maximilian,
+Prince of Wied.</i> Translated from the German
+by <i>Hannibal Evans Lloyd</i></p>
+
+<p class="sub-section">Author's Preface<span class="page"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="sub-section">Translator's Preface<span class="page"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="sub-section">Text:</p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER I&mdash;Voyage to Boston, Stay in
+that City, and Journey to New York,
+from May 17th to July 9th, 1832</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER II&mdash;Stay in New York, Philadelphia,
+and Bordentown, from the 9th
+to the 16th of July</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER III&mdash;Residence at Freiburg and
+Bethlehem in Pennsylvania, from July
+30th to August 23rd</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER IV&mdash;Journey to the Pokono,
+and through the Blue Mountains to
+Mauch Chunk, in the Coal District,
+from the 23rd to the 30th of August</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER V&mdash;Description of Mauch Chunk
+and its Coal Mines&mdash;Journey through
+the Lehigh Valley to Bethlehem, and
+last Residence in that Town, from
+August 31st to September 16th</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER VI&mdash;Journey from Bethlehem
+to Pittsburg, over the Alleghanys, from
+September 17th to October 7th</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER VII&mdash;Journey from Pittsburg to
+New Harmony, on the Wabash, from
+the 8th to the 19th of October</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER VIII&mdash;Description of the Country
+about New Harmony, in Indiana,
+and Winter Residence there from
+October 19th, 1832, to March 16th, 1833</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER IX&mdash;Journey from New Harmony
+to St. Louis on the Mississippi,
+and our Stay there, from March 16th
+to April 9th</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER X&mdash;Journey from St. Louis to
+the Cantonment of Leavenworth, or
+to the Borders of the Settlement, from
+the 10th to the 22nd of April</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER XI&mdash;Journey from the Cantonment
+of Leavenworth to the Punca Indians,
+from April 22nd to May 12th</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER XII&mdash;Voyage from L'Eau qui
+Court to Fort Pierre, on the Teton
+River (the Little Missouri), and Stay
+there, from May 13th to June 4th</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_291">291</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER XIII&mdash;Voyage from Fort Pierre,
+on the Teton River, to Fort
+Clarke, near the Villages of the Mandans,
+from the 5th to the 19th of June</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_330">330</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER XIV&mdash;Voyage from Fort Clarke
+to Fort Union, near the Mouth of the
+Yellow Stone River, from the 19th to
+the 24th of June</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_356">356</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="chapter"><span class="chap_head">CHAPTER XV&mdash;Description of Fort Union
+and its Neighbourhood</span><span class="page"><a href="#Page_376">375</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XXII</h2>
+<div id="loi">
+
+<p>Facsimile of title-page to Maximilian's <i>Travels</i><span class="page"><a href="#illo24">23</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">(The following are text cuts in original)</p>
+
+<p>Bear-trap<span class="page"><a href="#illo107">107</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Indian pipes<span class="page"><a href="#illo175">175</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Neck-yoke and plow<span class="page"><a href="#illo175b">175</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Formations of limestone rocks<span class="page"><a href="#illo213">213</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Omaha Indians<span class="page"><a href="#illo269">269</a></span></p>
+
+<p>An Omaha boy<span class="page"><a href="#illo269b">269</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Omaha war club<span class="page"><a href="#illo269c">269</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Punca war club<span class="page"><a href="#illo269d">269</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Punca Indians in buffalo robes<span class="page"><a href="#illo287">287</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Method of wearing hair<span class="page"><a href="#illo287b">287</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bows, arrows, and quiver<span class="page"><a href="#illo287c">287</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Tents of the Sioux<span class="page"><a href="#illo319">319</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Plan of Fort Pierre<span class="page"><a href="#illo319b">319</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Dakota pipes<span class="page"><a href="#illo323">323</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A Dakota, with plaited hair<span class="page"><a href="#illo323d">323</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A Teton<span class="page"><a href="#illo323c">323</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Hill of baked clay<span class="page"><a href="#illo323b">323</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Antlers of deer<span class="page"><a href="#illo347">347</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Sioux burial stages<span class="page"><a href="#illo347b">347</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A Blackfoot musical instrument<span class="page"><a href="#illo361">361</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Stone battle-axe<span class="page"><a href="#illo361b">361</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Assiniboin pipes<span class="page"><a href="#illo361c">361</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Pipe for warlike expeditions<span class="page"><a href="#illo361d">361</a></span></p>
+</div>
+<p><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a></p>
+<h2>PREFACE TO VOLUMES XXII-XXIV</h2>
+
+<p>Early trans-Mississippi exploration was undertaken largely
+in the interests of science. The great expedition of Lewis
+and Clark (1804-06) was, both in conception and plan,
+a scientific excursion. Bradbury and Brackenridge voyaged
+up the Missouri (1811) in search of rare plants and
+animals, Nuttall sought the Arkansas (1819) on a similar
+errand. Long's expedition (1819-20) was entirely scientific,
+both in organization and objects; while Townsend
+crossed the continent with Nathaniel Wyeth (1834) to
+secure a harvest of rare birds in the mountains and beyond.
+In the early nineteenth century, scientific collection was
+the chief object of ambition among thoughtful explorers&mdash;to
+secure for the world a complete catalogue of its plants
+and animals was worth much toil and hardship, heroic endeavor,
+and mighty daring. To such, the still unknown
+regions of the New World offered strong attractions. There
+were in the trans-Mississippi and in South America,
+spread out upon mountains and prairies and bordering far-flowing
+streams, fresh races of barbarians yet uncontaminated
+by civilized contact, beasts of prey, birds of brilliant
+plumage, and unknown plant species.</p>
+
+<p>Among those to whom this call of the New World came
+clearly, was a German savant, prince of a small house in
+Rhenish Prussia. Even while upon Napoleonic battle-fields,
+he felt a desire for the wilderness, and news of the victory
+of Waterloo reached him upon the far-distant rivers of
+Brazil. His later journey to North America was but the
+completion of a purpose formed in early boyhood. Alexander
+Philip Maximilian, Prince of Wied-Neuwied, was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span>
+born in the quaint capital of his little Rhenish sovereignty in
+September, 1782. The eighth child of the reigning Friedrich
+Karl, natural aptitude for study early marked his career
+for that of a scholar. Nevertheless, in obedience to the
+call of patriotism, he entered the Prussian army and was
+present at the battle of Jena. Soon thereafter he was
+captured and for some time suffered imprisonment. Exchanged
+and returned to Neuwied, he continued the scientific
+pursuits which had long interested him; but a fresh
+military crisis called him once more into service, in which
+he rose to a major-generalship, won the honor of the iron
+cross at Chalons, and entered Paris with the victorious
+army in 1813. Reminiscences of this warlike experience
+came to him twenty years later in the Missouri wilderness,
+when he notes that the song of the Assiniboin warriors
+before Fort McKenzie resembled that of the Russian soldiers
+heard in the winter of 1813-14.</p>
+
+<p>While successful as a soldier, at heart Maximilian was
+a searcher for knowledge. In his boyhood his mother had
+encouraged his love for natural history, and under the direction
+of his tutor he had begun a collection that was creditable
+to a youth. Later, in his university course, he came
+under the influence of the celebrated Professor Johann
+Friedrich Blumenbach, and as a favorite pupil absorbed
+from him a keen desire to contribute to the world's stock
+of knowledge. Throughout what leisure he could snatch
+in the Napoleonic campaigns, the young prince was planning
+a scientific expedition to Brazil, and no sooner was he finally
+released from martial duties than he made preparations
+that culminated, early in 1815, in a departure for that
+country. Joined in South America by two German scholars
+who had preceded him thither, the trio spent two years in
+the tropical forests of that country, studying its flora and
+fauna, and above all the native races. After the return
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span>
+to Germany, Maximilian's succeeding years were spent in
+arranging his collections and preparing for publication the
+results of his journey. His <i>Reise nach Brasilien in den
+Jahren 1815 bis 1817</i> (Frankfurt, 1820-21) was soon translated
+into French, Dutch, and English; later appeared
+<i>Beitrage zur Naturgeschichte von Brasilien</i> (Weimar, 1825-33),
+designed to accompany the atlas of ninety plates, entitled
+<i>Abbildungenen zur Naturgeschichte Brasiliens</i> (Weimar,
+1822-31). The publication of these works gave Maximilian
+an honored place among scientists, and proclaimed his
+ability as an exploring naturalist.</p>
+
+<p>By 1831 the prince was engaged in preparations for his
+second great enterprise&mdash;a visit to North America, including
+a scientific exploration of the trans-Mississippi region.
+Embarking on an American packet at Helvoetsluys, May 17,
+1832, our traveller arrived in Boston amid the salvos of
+artillery ushering in the anniversary of American independence.</p>
+
+<p>Maximilian was accompanied on this voyage by a young
+Swiss artist, Charles Bodmer, whom he had engaged to
+paint primitive landscapes in the New World, together with
+portraits of its aborigines. The artist's work proved eminently
+successful, as evidenced by the rare quality of the
+plates engraved from his sketches, which we reproduce in
+the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. Bodmer&mdash;born
+in Zurich in 1805&mdash;had studied in Paris; after his
+excursion to America with Maximilian, he returned to his
+former haunts, finally settling with the artist colony at Barbizon,
+in the forest of Fontainebleau, where he became a
+successful landscapist, and received medals of honor at the
+salons of 1851, 1855, and 1863, and in 1876 the ribbon of
+the legion of honor. One of his canvases was purchased
+by the French government for the Luxembourg gallery.
+His son Henri, also a painter, was recently exhibiting in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span>
+Paris salons. During the winter spent at Fort Clark, Bodmer
+experienced several adventures. At one time he was for
+several hours lost upon the prairie; again, his paints and
+oils congealed in the zero-blasts of the Dakotan winter. His
+interest in his task, however, was unwearied; by cajolery,
+bribery, and rare patience he secured sittings from famous
+Indian chiefs, faithfully presenting their portraits to the
+world in the full equipment of savage finery, thus giving us
+an unexcelled gallery of Indian types and costumes.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to this admirable artist&mdash;in some respects
+perhaps the most competent draughtsman who has thus far
+sought to depict the North American tribesmen&mdash;Prince
+Maximilian was accompanied by his faithful j�ger Dreidoppel,
+who had been with him in Brazil, and who rendered
+efficient service on the Missouri hills and prairies.</p>
+
+<p>"There are," our author tells us in his preface, "two
+distinct points of view" from which the traveller may study
+the United States&mdash;he may consider its present conditions
+and its future prosperity; its resources, population, immigration,
+and "gigantic strides of civilization." Maximilian's
+own purpose, however, was to collect data concerning the
+remnants of its aboriginal population, and the primitive
+state of its fields and forests; these he sought to observe
+and to perpetuate both in description and drawing. The
+America of the Eastern states had therefore slight charm
+for our traveller, his object being to reach the frontier as
+soon as was consistent with his scientific purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Tarrying briefly in Boston, New York, and Philadelphia,
+communities which he describes in a few terse sentences,
+he sought the forests of Pennsylvania for preliminary experience
+in the simpler phases of woodcraft and hunting,
+as well as to visit the German immigrants settled in this
+region. He had expected to journey westward by way of
+the Great Lakes, but the appearance of cholera at Detroit
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span>
+and Buffalo made this plan impractical; instead, he visited
+the Moravians at Bethlehem, and made a leisurely journey
+through northern Pennsylvania, inspecting the coal mines
+and the geological structures. In the early autumn the
+prince and his two companions reached Pittsburg, but
+there finding the water in the Ohio too low for navigation,
+they went overland to Wheeling, where they embarked
+(October 9) for the descent of the river. At Louisville,
+they found that the cholera scourge had preceded them,
+whereupon with but a brief stay they continued their
+voyage to the Wabash, where they turned aside to visit the
+colony of naturalists settled at the Indiana town of New
+Harmony.</p>
+
+<p>For some years Maximilian had been in correspondence
+with Thomas Say, the entomologist, who had accompanied
+Major S. H. Long's expedition, and was now managing
+the property of William Maclure, president of the Philadelphia
+Academy of Natural Sciences, who had purchased
+Robert Owen's communistic settlement on the Wabash,
+founded in 1825. Owen's two sons, Robert Dale and
+William, were still in the vicinity, together with Charles
+Alexander Lesueur, a French naturalist of repute. Even
+more attractive than the society of the scientists was the
+presence of a good library of Americana and natural history,
+at that time probably the best west of the Atlantic seaboard.
+Here, therefore, on the banks of the Wabash, our naturalist
+contentedly spent the winter of 1832-33, preparing for his
+journey into the Far West, and studying the antiquities and
+natural sciences of America. During these months, Bodmer
+made a voyage to New Orleans, but returned in time to set
+forth with his patron, March 16, 1833. After a steamboat
+journey to the mouth of the Ohio and up the Mississippi, they
+arrived at St. Louis before the departure for the interior of
+the usual spring caravans of the Western fur-traders.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At this entrep�t of the wilderness trade, Maximilian
+presented letters to its prominent citizens, and was invited
+by General William Clark to accompany a deputation of
+Sauk and Foxes, headed by Keokuk, on a visit to the imprisoned
+Sauk chiefs, Black Hawk and his confr�res, at
+Jefferson Barracks. The interest with which Maximilian
+regarded these first North American barbarians whom he
+had come so far to see, is well expressed in the narrative.
+Black Hawk he describes as a "little old man, perhaps
+seventy years of age, with grey hair, and a light yellow
+complexion, a slightly curved nose, and Chinese features,
+to which the shaven head, with the usual tuft behind, not
+a little contributed." The meeting between the prisoners
+and their free countrymen appeared to the prince most
+affecting.</p>
+
+<p>Maximilian had desired to visit the Rocky Mountains
+and their inhabitants, and accordingly planned to join one
+of the annual fur-trading caravans that, under the auspices
+of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, set off for their
+rendezvous in the heart of the Cordilleras. From this purpose
+he was dissuaded by General Clark, Major Benjamin
+O'Fallon, and other St. Louis folk cognizant with the situation.
+They represented to the illustrious traveller that
+these caravans avoided rather than sought the Indians;
+and that if they met, the encounter was apt to be hostile
+rather than friendly. It would also be extremely difficult to
+transport any extensive collections of fauna and flora by
+the land route. They thereupon advised a visit to the
+American Fur Company's trading posts on the Missouri
+via that company's annual steamboat, a plan which met
+the approval of the scientist and his companions.</p>
+
+<p>The tenth of April, 1833, the travellers boarded the "Yellowstone,"
+on its third trip to the posts of the upper Missouri.
+Before parting with Major O'Fallon, the latter gave them
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span>
+a manuscript map copied from one prepared during the
+Lewis and Clark expedition by Clark himself, the topographer
+of that famous exploring party. This chart
+was constantly used by the prince. His narrative recites
+the daily routine and incidents of the river voyage on the
+outward route. By April 22 the steamer had reached
+Fort (then Cantonment) Leavenworth, and ten days later
+they were at Bellevue, just below the present Omaha. It
+was not until the eighteenth of May that the prince's party
+were greeted by their first sight of buffalo, and by the last
+of that month they had arrived at Fort Pierre, the company's
+main post among the Sioux. Here our travellers were
+transferred from the "Yellowstone" to her sister steamer,
+the "Assiniboine," a newer, larger boat with, however, a
+lighter draught; the latter was to continue to the upper
+river, while the "Yellowstone" returned to St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly the party steamed up the river, past the Sioux
+territory and the Arikara villages into the land of the Mandan
+and the Minitaree, where on June 18 they were landed
+at the company's Fort Clark, just below a Mandan village
+several miles above the present Bismarck, North Dakota.
+Tarrying here but one day, the steamer continued its journey
+to the mouth of Yellowstone River, where Fort Union
+was reached on the twenty-fourth of June. After spending
+two weeks at this point, Maximilian and his suite were
+transferred to a keel-boat, and continued their voyage to
+Fort McKenzie, on Maria's River, among the treacherous
+Blackfeet.</p>
+
+<p>Here, during a stay of two months, the German naturalist
+was initiated into the mysteries of the fur-trade, came to
+understand the jealousies and rivalries of Indian tribes, and
+witnessed a battle before the stockade of the fort, between
+Blackfeet and Assiniboin warriors. Because of this
+intertribal quarrel and the consequent restlessness and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span>
+untrustworthiness of the neighboring barbarians, it was
+deemed inexpedient by the fur-traders for the travellers to
+advance farther into the Rockies, and Maximilian had
+need to content himself with such glimpses of the mountain
+ranges as could be had from the bluffs of Maria's River,
+and the upper reaches of the Missouri. The "Assiniboine"
+having long since departed on the home trip, the chief
+factor at Fort McKenzie built a barge for the princely
+visitor, upon which Maximilian embarked (September 14),
+together with a small crew of <i>voyageurs</i>, two cages of live
+bears, and several animal pets.</p>
+
+<p>Since wintering in the mountains had proved impracticable,
+our author determined to occupy the long cold months
+now at hand with the most interesting aborigines of the
+upper river. For this purpose he selected the Mandan and
+Minitaree, both because of their settled habitations and of
+the interest that these tribes had awakened in previous
+travellers. Known first to the early French explorers, it
+was from their villages that the V�rendrye brothers had in
+1742 set forth on their explorations toward the "Shining
+Mountains." Located at the upper bend of the Missouri,
+they were readily accessible to British traders of the Assiniboin
+and Saskatchewan valleys, who were found as habitu�s
+in their villages by Lewis and Clark, in 1804-05. Accordingly
+Maximilian requested permission of the American
+Fur Company officials to pass the winter at Fort Clark, the
+Mandan post. McKenzie accommodatingly ordered to be
+built for the famous traveller a small house within the stockade,
+and every facility to be given him for making records of
+the neighboring tribesmen. In company with Toussaint
+Charbonneau, Lewis and Clark's former interpreter, the
+German visitor attended various ceremonies, dances, and
+feasts, took many portraits of the chiefs, and studied the
+manners and customs, and myths and superstitions of this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span>
+vanishing race. The latter part of the winter the prince
+suffered with a serious attack of scurvy, from which, however,
+he recovered in time to set forth for the lower country
+on the breaking up of the ice.</p>
+
+<p>By the eighteenth of May he was once more at Fort
+Leavenworth. After brief visits at St. Louis and New
+Harmony, he journeyed eastward by way of the Ohio Canal
+and Lake Erie, stopped to wonder at the majesty of the
+Falls of Niagara, and on July 16, 1834, embarked at New
+York on the Havre packet for the Old World. A large
+portion of his collections were left behind at Fort Pierre, to
+be forwarded with the season's furs by the annual steamer.
+A fire occurring on the "Assiniboine," but few of these
+natural history specimens ever reached him, and one object
+of the prince's American visit was thereby frustrated.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting reminiscence of the visit of Prince Maximilian
+is found in the journals of Alexander Culbertson, a
+young fur-trade clerk who accompanied the scientist from
+Fort Union to Fort McKenzie. Culbertson says: "In this
+year an interesting character in the person of Prince Maximilian
+from Coblentz on the Rhine, made his first appearance
+in the upper Missouri. The Prince was at that time
+nearly seventy years of age [fifty-five], but well preserved,
+and able to endure considerable fatigue. He was a man of
+medium-height, rather slender, sans teeth, passionately fond
+of his pipe, unostentatious, and speaking very broken
+English. His favorite dress was a white slouch hat, a black
+velvet coat, rather rusty from long service, and probably
+the greasiest pair of trousers that ever encased princely
+legs. The Prince was a bachelor and a man of science, and
+it was in this latter capacity that he had roamed so far from
+his ancestral home on the Rhine. He was accompanied
+by an artist named Boadman [Bodmer] and a servant whose
+name was, as near as the author has been able to ascertain
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span>
+its spelling, Tritripel [Dreidoppel] ... McKenzie subsequently
+visited him in his palace at Coblentz, where he lived
+in a style befitting a prince, and was received with great cordiality
+and entertained with lavish hospitality. He inquired
+whether the double barrelled gun and the meershaum had
+reached their destination, as he had remembered his promise
+and forwarded them soon after his return to Europe.
+They had not, and never were received, for it subsequently
+appeared that the vessel in which they were shipped was
+lost; so they are probably now among the ill-gotten hoards
+of the Atlantic."<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>The years immediately following the prince's return to
+Europe were spent in preparing the results of his journey
+for the press. This proved to be his last foreign expedition,
+but he nevertheless continued absorbed with studies and
+consequent collections at his native place until death removed
+him in 1867. A few months before that event he
+wrote an interesting letter in English to the artist George
+Catlin, whose account of Mandan religious ceremonies had
+been discredited by many. The prince therein speaks of
+reviving the "quite forgotten recollections of my stay among
+the Indian tribes of the Missouri, now thirty-three years
+past," and says that not only does he know "most of the
+American works published on the American Indians," but
+he possesses many of them.<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> His library and collections are
+yet cherished as the chief treasures of Neuwied, where his
+grand-nephew Wilhelm still directs the principality's affairs.</p>
+
+<p>The narrative of Maximilian's North American journey
+was first published in German, having been written, as the
+author says, for foreigners rather than Americans, its title
+being <i>Reise in das Innere Nord-America in den Jahren 1832
+bis 1834</i> (Coblentz, 1839-41), and its form two handsome
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span>
+quarto volumes, with an atlas of Bodmer's remarkable
+engravings. A French edition in three volumes, with the
+atlas, appeared at Paris in 1840-43. The Englished version,
+undertaken by H. Evans Lloyd, was issued in London in
+1843, in one quarto volume. This latter translation we
+here reprint for the first time. In addition we have included
+in the Appendix to our volume xxiv, the twenty-three Indian
+vocabularies, one of the glories of the German original,
+which feature has never been reproduced in any other of
+the translated editions. Carefully recorded and scientifically
+collated by a trained observer and scholar, they form a
+contribution to American philology now impossible to duplicate.
+But five years after Maximilian's visit to the upper
+river, smallpox broke out among the tribes, and carried its
+ravages to such an extent that bands once powerful were
+reduced to scanty remnants. The Mandan were at the time
+reported to be absolutely annihilated; a few, however, are
+still living on Fort Berthold reservation, in North Dakota.
+Maximilian's observations are the more valuable because
+made in the plenitude of that tribe's power and prosperity,
+before their diminished numbers made them subservient
+to the invading fur-traders.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the vocabularies, and unique in the present
+English edition, we present Maximilian's account of the
+Indian sign language, his catalogues of birds for both the
+Missouri and Wabash river valleys, and a summary of his
+meteorological observations on the upper Missouri. All of
+these were omitted from the London edition of 1843. It has
+been our purpose to give to American readers the entire
+scientific as well as narrative product of the prince's famous
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p>While the chief value of the present work lies in its ethnological
+significance, it is highly interesting as an historical
+description of natural conditions west of the Mississippi,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span>
+seventy years ago. The author's style is simple, natural,
+and unforced, rather the expression of the scientific than of
+the literary type of mind. A traveller of today, gliding
+across the plains and along the windings of the Missouri
+in a palace-car, may follow the pages of Maximilian and
+the plates of Bodmer, and thus obtain as clearly as words
+and pictures can express, an accurate presentation of the
+trans-Mississippi region in 1833. These volumes are thus
+a fitting supplement to the work of the prince's great progenitors,
+the American explorers, Lewis and Clark.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing this volume for the press, the Editor has
+had throughout the valuable assistance of Louise Phelps
+Kellogg, Ph.D., who in turn has been aided by Clarence
+Cory Crawford, A.M. The translations from the German,
+not given by Lloyd, have been made for the present reprint
+by Asa Currier Tilton, Ph.D., chief of the department of
+maps and manuscripts in the Wisconsin Historical Library.</p>
+
+<p><span class="left65">R. G. T.</span></p>
+
+<p class="i2"><span class="smcap">Madison, Wis.</span>, November, 1905.</p>
+
+<p class="p6 center"><span class="smcap">Part I of Maximilian, Prince of Wied's, Travels
+in the Interior of North America</span></p>
+<hr />
+<p class="center s09">Reprint of chapters i-xv of London edition: 1843</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="illo24" id="illo24"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_024.jpg" width="401" height="600" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div id="folio_title">
+<p>
+<span class="b12">TRAVELS</span><br />
+<span class="s09">IN</span><br />
+<span class="b15">THE INTERIOR OF</span><br /><br />
+<span class="b20">NORTH AMERICA.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="s09">BY</span><br />
+<span class="b10">MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="s09">WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD,</span><br />
+<span class="s07">AND A LARGE MAP.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="s07">TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN,</span><br />
+<span class="b10">BY H. EVANS LLOYD.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="s09">TO ACCOMPANY THE ORIGINAL SERIES OF EIGHTY-ONE<br />
+ELABORATELY-COLOURED PLATES.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="s07">SIZE, IMPERIAL FOLIO.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="b10">LONDON:</span><br />
+<span class="b10">ACKERMANN AND CO., 96, STRAND</span><br />
+<span class="s07">MDCCCXLIII.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a></p>
+<h2>AUTHOR'S PREFACE</h2>
+
+<p>Immense additions have been made of late years to our
+knowledge of the extensive continent of North America.
+A large portion of that country, which, only a few years
+ago, was covered with almost uninterrupted primeval forests,
+and a scanty, scattered population of rude barbarians,
+has been converted, by the influx of emigrants from the
+Old World, into a rich and flourishing State, for the most
+part civilized, and almost as well known and cultivated as
+Europe itself. Large and flourishing towns, with fine public
+institutions of every kind, have risen rapidly, and every
+year adds to their number. Animated commerce, unfettered,
+unlimited industry, have caused this astonishing advance
+of civilization in the United States. The tide of emigration
+is impelled onwards, wave upon wave, and it is only the
+sterility of the North-west that can check the advancing
+torrent.</p>
+
+<p>We already possess numerous accounts of these daily-increasing
+States, and there are many good statistical works
+on the subject. We have even excellent general works on
+the physical state of this continent, among which Volney's
+"Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis," holds a high
+rank.<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Little, however, has yet been done towards a clear
+and vivid description of the natural scenery of North America:
+the works of American writers themselves on this subject,
+with the exception of Cooper's and Washington Irving's
+animated descriptions, cannot be taken into account, as, in
+writing for their countrymen, they take it for granted that
+their readers are well acquainted with the country.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span></p>
+
+<p>For this reason I have endeavoured, in the following work,
+to supply this deficiency to the best of my ability, and have
+aimed rather at giving a clear and faithful description of
+the country, than at collecting statistical information.
+Hence these travels are designed for foreign, rather than for
+American readers, to whom, probably, but few of the
+details would be new.</p>
+
+<p>There are two distinct points of view in which that remarkable
+country may be considered. Some travellers are
+interested by the rude, primitive character of the natural
+face of North America, and its aboriginal population, the
+traces of which are now scarcely discernible in most parts
+of the United States; while the majority are more inclined
+to contemplate the immigrant population, and the gigantic
+strides of civilization introduced by it. The account of my
+tour through a part of these countries, contained in the
+following pages, is chiefly intended for readers of the first
+class. I have avoided the repetition of numerous statements
+which may be found in various statistical publications;
+but, on the contrary, have aimed at a simple description
+of nature. As the United States were merely the basis of
+my more extensive undertaking, the object of which <span class="opage">vi</span> was
+the investigation of the upper part of the course of the Missouri,
+they do not form a prominent feature, and it is
+impossible to expect, from a few months' residence, an
+opinion on the social condition and character of that motley
+population.</p>
+
+<p>The indulgent reader, following the author beyond the
+frontier of the United States, will have to direct his attention
+to those extensive plains&mdash;those cheerless, desolate prairies,
+the western boundary of which is formed by the snow-covered
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, or the Oregon, where many
+tribes of the aborigines still enjoy a peaceful abode; while
+their brethren in the eastern part of the continent are supplanted,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>
+extirpated, degenerated, in the face of the constantly
+increasing immigration, or have been forced across the
+Mississippi, where they have for the most part perished.</p>
+
+<p>The vast tracts of the interior of North-western America
+are, in general, but little known, and the government of
+the United States may be justly reproached for not having
+done more to explore them. Some few scientific expeditions,
+among which the two under Major Long produced the most
+satisfactory results for natural history, though on a limited
+scale, were set on foot by the government; and it is only
+under its protection that a thorough investigation of those
+extensive wildernesses, especially in the Rocky Mountains,
+can be undertaken.<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Even Major Long's expeditions are
+but poorly furnished with respect to natural history, for a
+faithful and vivid picture of those countries, and their original
+inhabitants, can never be placed before the eye without
+the aid of a fine portfolio of plates by the hand of a skilful
+artist.</p>
+
+<p>In my description of the voyage up the Missouri, I have
+endeavoured to avail myself of the assistance of an able
+draughtsman, the want of which I so sensibly felt in my
+former travels in South America. On the present occasion
+I was accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, who has represented
+the Indian nations with great truth, and correct delineation
+of their characteristic features. His drawings will prove
+an important addition to our knowledge of this race of men,
+to whom so little attention has hitherto been paid.</p>
+
+<p>After mature consideration, I have judged it desirable to
+throw the account of my voyage on the Missouri itself into
+the form of a journal, as the daily notices were numerous,
+but the variety very trifling; so that the patience of the
+reader will unfortunately be tried a little in this part of the
+narrative. In those uninhabited, desert countries the traveller
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span>
+has nothing but the description of the naked banks of
+the river, and the little diversity they afford, interrupted at
+times by the adventures of the chase, and occasional meetings
+with Indians; the reader will therefore excuse many
+observations and unimportant descriptions, which would
+have been omitted if the materials had been richer in variety.
+I need still more indulgence with respect to many observations
+on natural history, but for this the loss of the greater part of
+my collections will be a sufficient excuse. The cases containing
+them were delivered to the Company, to be put on
+board the steamer for St. Louis, but not insured; and, when
+the steamer caught fire, the people thought rather of saving
+the goods than my cases, the contents of which were, probably,
+not considered to be of much value, and so they were
+all burnt. This may be a warning to future travellers not
+to neglect to insure such collections.</p>
+
+<p>Though the main object of my journey, namely, to pass
+some time in the chain of the Rocky Mountains, was defeated
+by unfavorable circumstances, I should have been
+able, but for the loss of my collections, to communicate
+many new observations, especially in the department of zoology,
+which are now more or less deficient. The accounts
+of the tribes of the aborigines, and <span class="opage">vii</span> especially of the
+Mandans and Manitaries, are more complete, because I
+spent a whole winter among them, and was able to have
+daily intercourse with them. Authentic and impartial accounts
+of the Indians of the Upper Missouri are now
+especially valuable, if the information that we have since
+received is well founded, namely, that to the many evils
+introduced by the Whites among those tribes, a most destructive
+epidemic&mdash;smallpox&mdash;has been added, and a
+great part of them exterminated: according to the newspapers,
+the Mandans, Manitaries, Assiniboins, and Blackfeet
+have been swept away except a small remnant. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>
+observation of the manners of the aborigines is undoubtedly
+that which must chiefly interest the foreign traveller in those
+countries, especially as the Anglo-Americans look down on
+them with a certain feeling of hatred. Hence we have
+hitherto met with little useful information respecting the
+Indians, except in the recent writings of Edward James,
+Long, Say, Schoolcraft, M<sup>c</sup>Kinney, Cass, Duponceau,
+Irving,<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> and a few others; and as good portraits of this
+race have hitherto been extremely rare, the faithful delineation
+contained in the portfolio of plates accompanying this
+work will be interesting to the friends of anthropology and
+ethnography.</p>
+
+<p>Several men, of great eminence in the learned world, have
+had the kindness to contribute to the publication. President
+Nees Von Esenbeck has undertaken the determination and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span>
+description of the plants which I brought home;<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Professor
+Goldfuss, of Bonn, that of some fossil shells; Professor
+G�ppert, of Breslau, that of the impression of fossil plants
+from Mauch Chunk;<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Professors Valenciennes at Paris, and
+Wiegmann at Boston, the comparison of some zoological
+specimens with those in their cities;<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and Lieut.-Col. W.
+Thorn, the construction of the map; for which obliging assistance
+I beg leave to offer to these gentlemen my sincere
+thanks.</p>
+<p><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a></p>
+
+<h2>TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE</h2>
+
+<p>The author, in his Preface, gives so full an account of
+the objects and results of his travels in the interior of North
+America, that it would have been unnecessary for me to
+prefix any observations of my own, were it not for some
+circumstances, connected with the translation, which seem
+to require explanation.</p>
+
+<p>The prospectus of the German original announced that
+the work would consist of two large quarto volumes, accompanied
+by a portfolio of above eighty beautifully coloured
+copper-plates, executed by eminent artists at Paris, from
+the original drawings. Some specimens of the plates having
+been brought to London, were so much admired by many
+competent judges, that Messrs. Ackermann were induced
+to agree with the Paris publisher for a limited number of
+copies of the plates; and as it might justly be presumed that
+the English purchasers would be desirous of having the
+narrative of the travels, it was resolved to publish a translation
+compressed into a single volume. By selecting, however,
+a page of a large size, the translator has been able to
+retain all the most interesting parts, omitting only minute
+details of the measurements of animals, &amp;c. All the chapters
+illustrative of the manners, customs, traditions, and
+superstitions of the Indians are given without abridgment,
+and these, as the author justly observes, are by far the most
+attractive and valuable portions of the work. The papers
+in the Appendix, giving an account of the plants collected,
+are also inserted entire, and have been kindly revised by my
+friend Sir William Hooker.<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The principal omission is that of the very extensive vocabularies
+of the languages of the different Indian tribes.<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>
+They are written so as to represent the pronunciation in
+German, and have, in numerous instances, special directions,
+as thus: kontschue (<i>on</i> as in French, <i>schue</i>, short and quick,
+<i>e</i>�). It appeared to be a hopeless and unprofitable task to
+rewrite these vocabularies, and to represent the true pronunciation
+in English. Those who are curious in such matters
+will find many specimens in Mr. Catlin's interesting
+work.<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The numerous Indian proper names are, of course, written
+in the original as pronounced in German. It has been
+thought best to leave them unchanged, merely requesting
+the reader to observe, in general, that the consonants
+are pronounced as in English; only that <i>ch</i> is guttural,
+as in the Scotch word <i>loch</i>; that <i>sch</i> is pronounced <i>sh</i>,
+and that the vowels have the same sound as in French,
+<i>ah</i>, <i>a</i>, <i>ee</i>, <i>o</i>, <i>oo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The author alludes, in his Preface, to the recent fearful
+ravages which have been caused among the Indian races by
+the small-pox. The origin and extent of these ravages will
+be seen from the following very affecting letter on the subject:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+<span class="opage">ix</span>"<span class="smcap">New Orleans</span>, <i>June 6, 1838</i>.&mdash;The southern parts of the United
+States, particularly Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana, are as healthy as
+can be wished; there has been no appearance of the yellow fever, and
+even at the Havannah only a few isolated cases have occurred. During
+the autumn, winter, and spring, the small-pox has carried off many
+victims among the whites, and thousands of the Indians; but it has
+now wholly disappeared in the territory of the Union, in consequence
+of a general vaccination of persons of all ages. On the other hand, we
+have, from the trading posts on the western frontier of the Missouri,
+the most frightful accounts of the ravages of the small-pox among the
+Indians. The destroying angel has visited the unfortunate sons of the
+wilderness with terrors never before known, and has converted the extensive
+hunting grounds, as well as the peaceful settlements of those
+tribes, into desolate and boundless cemeteries. The number of the
+victims within a few months is estimated at 30,000, and the pestilence
+is still spreading. The warlike spirit which but lately animated the
+several Indian tribes, and but a few months ago gave reason to apprehend
+the breaking-out of a sanguinary war, is broken. The mighty
+warriors are now the prey of the greedy wolves of the prairie, and the
+few survivors, in mute despair, throw themselves on the pity of the
+Whites, who, however, can do but little to help them. The vast preparations
+for the protection of the western frontier are superfluous:
+another arm has undertaken the defence of the white inhabitants of
+the frontier; and the funeral torch, that lights the red man to his dreary
+grave, has become the auspicious star of the advancing settler, and of
+the roving trader of the white race.</p>
+
+<p>"The small-pox was communicated to the Indians by a person who
+was on board the steam-boat which went, last summer, up to the mouth
+of the Yellow Stone, to convey both the government presents for the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span>
+Indians, and the goods for the barter trade of the fur dealers.<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> The
+disorder communicated itself to several of the crew of the steam-boat.
+The officers gave notice of it to the Indians, and exerted themselves to
+the utmost to prevent any intercourse between them and the vessel;
+but this was a vain attempt; for the Indians knew that presents and
+goods for barter were come for them, and it would have been impossible
+to drive them away from the fort without having recourse to arms.
+Two days before the arrival of the steam-boat, an express had been
+received at the trading fort, 2000 miles west of St. Louis, with the
+melancholy news of the breaking-out of the small-pox on board; this
+was immediately communicated to the Indians, with the most urgent
+entreaties to keep at a distance; but this was as good as preaching to
+the winds. The survivors now lament their disobedience, and are as
+submissive as the poor dogs which look in vain in the prairie for the
+footsteps of their masters. The miserable remnants of the Indians
+implore us not to abandon them in their misfortune, and promise, if
+we will take pity on them, never more to disobey our commands.</p>
+
+<p>"The disease first broke out about the 15th of June, 1837, in the
+village of the Mandans, a few miles below the American fort, Leavenworth,
+from which it spread, in all directions, with unexampled fury.<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
+The character of the disease was as appalling as the rapidity of the
+propagation. Among the remotest tribes of the Assiniboins from fifty
+to one hundred died daily. The patient, when first seized, complains
+of dreadful pains in the head and back, and in a few hours he is dead:
+the body immediately turns black, and swells to thrice its natural size.
+In vain were hospitals fitted up in Fort Union,<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> and the whole stock
+of medicines exhausted. For many weeks together our workmen did
+nothing but collect the dead bodies and bury them in large pits; but
+since the ground is frozen we are obliged to throw them into the river.
+The ravages of the disorder were the most frightful among the Mandans,
+where it first broke out. That once powerful tribe, which, by accumulated
+disasters, had already been reduced to 1500 souls, was exterminated,
+with the exception of thirty persons. Their neighbours, the Bigbellied
+Indians, and the Ricarees, were out on a hunting excursion at the time
+of the breaking-out of the disorder, so that it did not reach them till
+a month later; yet half the tribe was already destroyed on the 1st of
+October, and the disease continued to spread. Very few of those who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span>
+were attacked recovered their health; but when they saw all their relations
+buried, and the pestilence still raging with unabated fury among
+the remainder of their countrymen, life became a burden to them, and
+they put an end to their wretched existence, either with their knives
+and muskets, or by precipitating themselves from the summit of the
+rock near their settlement. The prairie all around is a vast field of
+death, covered with unburied corpses, and spreading, for miles, pestilence
+and infection. The Bigbellied Indians and the Ricarees, lately amounting
+to 4000 souls, were reduced to less than the half. The Assiniboins,
+9000 in number, roaming over a hunting territory to the north of the
+Missouri, as far as the trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+are, in the literal sense of the expression, nearly exterminated. They,
+as well as the Crows and Blackfeet, endeavoured to fly in all directions,
+but the disease everywhere pursued them. At last every feeling of
+mutual compassion and tenderness seems to have disappeared. Every
+one avoided the others. Women and children wandered about in the
+prairie seeking <span class="opage">x</span> for a scanty subsistence. The accounts of the situation
+of the Blackfeet are awful. The inmates of above 1000 of their
+tents are already swept away. They are the bravest and the most crafty
+of all the Indians, dangerous and implacable to their enemies, but faithful
+and kind to their friends. But very lately we seriously apprehended
+that a terrible war with them was at hand, and that they would unite
+the whole of their remaining strength against the Whites. Every day
+brought accounts of new armaments, and of a loudly expressed spirit of
+vengeance towards the Whites: but the small-pox cast them down, the
+brave as well as the feeble; and those who were once seized by this
+infection never recovered. It is affirmed that several bands of warriors,
+who were on their march to attack the fort, all perished by the way,
+so that not one survived to convey the intelligence to their tribe. Thus,
+in the course of a few weeks, their strength and their courage were
+broken, and nothing was to be heard but the frightful wailings of death
+in the camp. Every thought of war was dispelled, and the few that are
+left are as humble as famished dogs. No language can picture the scene
+of desolation which the country presents. In whatever direction we
+go, we see nothing but melancholy wrecks of human life. The tents
+are still standing on every hill, but no rising smoke announces the
+presence of human beings, and no sounds but the croaking of the raven
+and the howling of the wolf interrupt the fearful silence. The above
+accounts do not complete the terrible intelligence which we receive.
+There is scarcely a doubt that the pestilence will spread to the tribes in
+and beyond the Rocky Mountains, as well as to the Indians in the
+direction of Santa F� and Mexico. It seems to be irrevocably written
+in the book of fate, that the race of red men shall be wholly extirpated
+in the land in which they ruled the undisputed masters, till the rapacity
+of the Whites brought to their shores the murderous fire-arms, the
+enervating ardent spirits, and the all-destructive pestilence of the small-pox.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span>
+According to the most recent accounts, the number of the Indians
+who have been swept away by the small-pox, on the western frontier
+of the United States, amounts to more than 60,000."<a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The general correctness of the melancholy details given
+in the above letter has been confirmed to me by several travellers
+who have visited these nations since they were desolated
+by this awful epidemic. The almost total extinction
+of these tribes greatly enhances the value and importance
+of the full and interesting particulars imparted by his Highness.</p>
+
+<p class="left65">
+H. EVANS LLOYD.<a name="FNanchor_16" id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="smcap s09">Charterhouse Square</span>,<br />
+<span class="i2 s09">May 1st, 1843.</span></p>
+
+<h2>TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF<br />
+NORTH AMERICA, IN THE<br />
+YEARS 1832, 1833, AND 1834</h2>
+
+<p class="center b15"><b>[PART I]</b></p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a></p>
+
+<p class="chapter1_start">CHAPTER I</p>
+
+<p class="center">VOYAGE TO BOSTON, STAY IN THAT CITY, AND JOURNEY TO NEW YORK,
+FROM MAY 17TH TO JULY 9TH, 1832</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">Voyage&mdash;Boston&mdash;Festival of Independence&mdash;The American inns&mdash;Charlestown&mdash;Monument
+on Bunker's Hill&mdash;Cambridge&mdash;New
+England Museum&mdash;Pawtucket&mdash;Providence&mdash;Embark on board
+the Boston&mdash;Voyage to New York&mdash;Fine view of that city.</p>
+
+<p>Voyages to North America are become everyday occurrences,
+and little more is to be related of them than that
+you met and saluted ships, had fine or stormy weather, and
+the like; here, therefore, we shall merely say that our party
+embarked at Helvoetsluys, on board an American ship,
+on the 17th of May, in the evening, and on the 24th saw
+Land's End, Cornwall, vanish in the misty distance, and
+bade farewell to Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Even when we were in latitude 48� 40&prime;, and for several
+days afterwards, we had very unfavourable weather and violent
+storms, which were succeeded, on the 10th of June, by
+calms. On such days, shoals of dolphins crowded round
+the ship, and some men got on the bowsprit to throw the
+harpoon at them. The mate was at length so fortunate as
+to drive his harpoon through the body of one of these monsters
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>
+of the deep, an event which was hailed with loud
+cheers. By the aid of several sailors the heavy prey was
+drawn upon deck. The animal, after it was wounded, made
+desperate efforts to free itself, and the harpoon had nearly
+given way, when the fish was secured by a rope thrown under
+the pectoral fins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">2</span> On the following day we had some of the flesh dressed
+as steaks, which we found to be very good; indeed, we preferred
+them to all other meat. I did not know, at that time,
+that I should soon find dog's flesh relishing! It is necessary
+to remove the blubber immediately; because, if this precaution
+be neglected, the flesh contracts a taste of train oil.
+The liver in particular is excellent.</p>
+
+<p>On the same day we were to the south of the bank of Newfoundland,
+and, therefore, steered in nearly a northerly direction.
+On the 19th we were in a thick fog. White and other
+petrels flew round us, with some gulls, and birds resembling
+sea swallows, with a forked tail. We sounded, but found
+no bottom. On the 20th, however, we were on the bank,
+where, at half-past eight in the morning, the temperature
+of the air was +5�� Reaumur, and that of the water, +2��.
+At two in the afternoon, with thick fog, the temperature of
+the air was +8�; that of the water, +4�. We then had
+a calm, and sounded in thirty-five fathoms. Large whales
+and flocks of sea-birds showed that we were on the bank.
+A hook and line being thrown out, we caught a fine cod,
+from whose stomach clams were taken, which served as a
+bait for other fish. We were on the middle of the lower
+point of the great bank, when large dolphins, quite black,
+called by the Americans blackfish, swam rapidly past in
+long lines, alternating with porpoises, which threw up white
+foam as they leaped and tumbled on the waves. A diver
+was shot while swimming, and flocks of black petrels hovered
+round us. A dead calm succeeding, a boat was put
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span>
+out to give chase to the latter. Fat was thrown out to entice
+the birds, and many of the little black petrel, (<i>Procellaria
+Pelagica</i>), were shot, and also some of the birds, called
+by Charles Bonaparte,<a name="FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> <i>Thalassidroma Wilsonii</i>, which very
+nearly resemble each other in colour, as well as in shape.
+A snow white gull (probably <i>Larus eburneus</i>) flew about
+the ship. On the 26th of June, we had been just forty days
+at sea, and at noon were off the lower part of Sable Island
+bank, in fifty-five fathoms, but did not see the island itself.
+We steered towards Nova Scotia, but the wind soon forced
+us in a southerly direction. We had many indications of
+the vicinity of land, and from this time we proceeded more
+satisfactorily, till the 3rd of July, at noon, when, to the joy
+of all, we descried land. Cape Cod Bay lay to the south
+of us, about fifteen miles distant. It showed low sandhills,
+with dark bushes on them. About two o'clock we could
+distinguish a lighthouse of moderate height, with a wind-mill,
+and several other buildings. As the wind was unfavourable,
+we were obliged to tack often, in order to sail into
+the great bay of Massachusetts, which we did in the finest
+and most lovely weather. The cool of the evening had
+succeeded the heat of the day; the dark blue mirror of the
+sea shone around us, moved only by a gentle breeze, while
+a few white or dark brown sails hastened to the coast,
+which was already veiled in the evening mist.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Sublime repose prevailed in this extensive and grand
+scene, our ship alone was in a state of activity. Various
+preparations were made for the approaching landing, while
+we Europeans looked eagerly at the distance. I had hoped
+in vain for a sight of the famous sea serpent; it <span class="opage">3</span> would
+not shew itself. I had, in the sequel, opportunities to speak
+with several American naturalists on the subject, but they
+all looked upon the story as a fable.</p>
+
+<p>The moon rose in the utmost splendour, and lighted up
+the unagitated surface of the sea, and the fishing-boats which
+lay at anchor. Before midnight we saw Boston lighthouse,
+and soon afterwards several other such lights on the coast,
+which are a most welcome sight, and increase the impatience
+of the stranger in a remote quarter of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>The following day (4th of July), on which I landed for
+the second time in the New World, was the anniversary of
+the day on which America proclaimed its independence.
+Early in the morning, the salutes of artillery resounded from
+the coasts, which we now saw clearly before us. In the
+centre, in the direction of the city of Boston, was the white
+lighthouse, with its black roof, on a small rocky island,<a name="FNanchor_18" id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> and
+around it several little picturesque islands, partly of white
+sand, with plots of grass; partly rocks, which adorn the
+beautiful bay. At a distance we saw some low mountains,
+the coast covered with numerous villages, obscured by the
+smoke of the gunpowder, and numbers of ships and boats
+sailing in every direction, all adorned with gay flags in
+honour of the day. We passed in succession several islands,
+the lighthouse, the telegraph, and drew nearer and nearer
+to the coast of the Continent, diversified with gentle eminences
+covered with corn, or beautifully green as in England:
+and here and there, in the bays and inlets, adorned with
+lofty trees. These coasts, with the numerous white buildings
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span>
+of the towns and villages, presented a most charming scene
+in the splendour of the morning sun. At length the long-expected
+pilot came on board, and in the bay, on our right,
+we saw the city of Boston, and many steam-boats before it.
+The sea had no longer the blue colour, but the green tinge
+which it has on all coasts, and was covered with medus�, and
+the leaves of the sea grass, which grows on these shores.
+The heat was very great, 18� in the shade, by Reaumur's
+thermometer, on board the ship, when we cast anchor at
+India Wharf, Boston, on the forty-eighth day of our voyage.
+The temperature in this oblong basin, which is surrounded
+with large magazines of naval stores, was by no means
+agreeable at the moment of our arrival; we, therefore, left
+the ship as soon as possible, and repaired to the Commercial
+Coffee House, where we took up our quarters.</p>
+
+<p>Boston, an extensive city, with above 80,000 inhabitants,<a name="FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>
+reminded me, at first sight, of one of the old English towns;
+but various differences soon appeared. The streets are
+partly long and broad, partly narrow and irregular, with
+good flag pavement for foot passengers; the buildings are
+of brick or stone; but in a great portion of the old town the
+houses are of wood; the roofs are, for the most part, covered
+with shingles; the chimneys resemble those in England, but
+do not seem to be so lofty; the dark colours of the buildings
+give the city, on the whole, a gloomy appearance. <span class="opage">4</span> There
+are many important buildings and churches, which have
+been described by numerous travellers. In the front of the
+houses there are frequently little plots of garden, next the
+street, in the English fashion, planted with tall, shady trees,
+and flowers. Strangers will immediately look for American
+plants, especially for those species of trees which are generally
+cultivated in Europe; but, instead of them, they will
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span>
+observe only European trees, such as Lombardy poplars,
+Babylonian willows, syringa hibiscus, chestnuts, elms, &amp;c.,
+and it was with much difficulty that I found some stems of
+the catalpa, which was just then on the point of flowering,
+and some other native trees. Besides the little grass plots,
+planted with flowers, in the front of the houses, there are,
+in Boston, many plantations and avenues of very tall and
+shady elms, which, like the same species in England, are
+remarkably vigorous and flourishing. Among these avenues,
+the principal is that called the <i>Commons</i>, where there were
+fireworks in the evening of the 4th of July.</p>
+
+<p>Washington-street is looked upon as the finest and longest
+street in Boston; its length is nearly equal to that of the
+whole city. Here, as in the first cities of Europe, there are
+numerous fine and elegant shops, with the most costly articles;
+and the productions of the West Indies. Cocoa-nuts,
+oranges, bananas, &amp;c., are nowhere to be found so fresh,
+and in such perfection as in the seaports of North America.
+On account of the celebration of this day, most of the shops
+were closed; but then the entire population seemed to throng
+the streets, and the gay crowd was very interesting to strangers,
+as it was not difficult to catch the general features.
+Though a great part of the Americans have much of the
+English stamp, there are, however, some essential differences.
+The peculiar character of the English countenance seems to
+have disappeared in America, in the strange climate; the
+men are of a slenderer make, and of taller stature; a general
+expression of the physiognomy seems to be wanting. The
+women are elegant, and have handsome features, but frequently
+a paleness, which does not indicate a salubrious
+climate, or a healthy judicious way of living.<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> Straw hats,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span>
+trimmed with black or green ribbons, were in general use.
+Cloth was much worn, and everything was according to the
+newest English and French fashions. Among the busy
+throng were a great number of negroes, who, in the Northern
+and Eastern States, have been made free. Not far from the
+public walks was a small narrow street, almost entirely inhabited
+by negroes and their hybrids. The stranger in
+Boston looks in vain for the original American race of the
+Indians. Instead of its former state of nature, this country
+now shows a mixture of all nations, which is rapidly proceeding
+in the unjustifiable expulsion and extirpation of the
+aborigines, which began on the arrival of the Europeans in
+the New World, and has unremittingly continued.</p>
+
+<p>After we had enjoyed a hasty view of the city, we returned
+to our inn, where we had an opportunity of making ourselves
+acquainted with many new customs, differing from
+those of Europe. It must be confessed that the arrangements
+in the large and much frequented inns of <span class="opage">5</span> the great
+towns in the United States, are, in many respects, inferior
+to those of Europe. The rooms are very small, and all have
+beds in them: parlours, that is, rooms without beds, must be
+hired separately. The hours for meals are fixed&mdash;three
+times in the day; and the signal is usually given, two or three
+times, by ringing a bell. In general, a number of persons
+habitually take their meals in these inns; they besiege the
+house before the appointed time arrives, and, when the signal
+is given, they rush tumultuously into the eating-room; every
+one strives to get before the other, and, for the most part,
+the crowd of guests is far too great, in proportion to the
+number of the black attendants. Then every one takes possession
+of the dish that he can first lay his hands on, and in
+ten minutes all is consumed; in laconic silence the company
+rise from table, put on their hats, and the busy gentlemen
+hasten away, whom you see all the day long posted before
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span>
+the inns, or at the fire-side in the lower rooms, smoking cigars
+and reading the colossal newspapers. The hat, which the
+Americans seldom lay aside, except in the company of the
+women, is always taken off at table, which is certainly no
+small exertion in this land of perfect liberty, as Captain Morrell
+expresses it.<a name="FNanchor_21" id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Elegance of dress is far more common
+in America than in Europe; but then this is all that the
+gentleman in America cares about, when he has finished
+his mercantile business, read the newspaper, and performed
+his part in the government of the State. I have often been
+surprised at the crowd of idle gentlemen before and in the
+American inns, who spend the whole day in total inactivity;
+and these elegant loiterers are, in fact, a characteristic feature
+of these inns. Here, too, there is a peculiar arrangement,
+which many travellers have noticed, and which we do not
+meet with in ours&mdash;I mean the bar-room, where a man
+stationed behind the bar, mixes compounds, and sells all
+sorts of beverages, in which a quantity of ice and of freshly
+gathered peppermint leaves are employed. Very agreeable
+cooling liquors are here prepared, which the heat of the
+climate calls for. In the evening the European is surprised
+at being desired to pull off his shoes before a number of
+people in the bar-room, and to exchange them for slippers,
+which are piled up in large heaps. The attendance is, in
+general, indifferent. There are scarcely any white servants,
+or, at least, they are almost useless; all menial offices must
+be performed by blacks, who, though free people, are still
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span>
+held in contempt by the Americans, who so highly estimate
+the dignity of man, and form a rejected caste, like the Parias
+in India.</p>
+
+<p>At the approach of evening, on the 4th of July, the whole
+population of Boston was in motion; but the streets were
+soon entirely deserted, and all the inhabitants had collected
+in the promenade, called the Commons. The sight was
+highly interesting. An extensive piece of ground, covered
+with green sward, stretches in a gentle slope to the water,
+and is surrounded by avenues of lofty, shady elms. Numerous
+paths cross each other in the centre, and here there is a
+gigantic elm, with a wide-spreading crown, measuring from
+thirty to forty paces in diameter. We regretted that the
+great crowd of people rendered it impossible to approach
+this fine tree, on <span class="opage">6</span> this busy evening. All Boston, rich and
+poor, was here assembled, in the most elegant dresses.
+Groups were sitting, or lying in the grass; rows of tables
+and little stalls were set out, where there was a real oyster
+feast, in which the people indulged to an extent that rendered
+the appearance of the tables anything but inviting. As it
+grew dark, there was a very indifferent display of fireworks,
+on the eminence, in honour of the day, the expense of which
+was defrayed by subscription. Several companies of city
+militia had previously paraded the streets; they are all volunteers,
+who equip themselves, and that in a very superior
+manner; but their uniforms are very gay and motley, as may
+be expected, where every one is left to follow his own taste.
+Each company, or troop, had a different uniform&mdash;one red,
+another blue, and, in part, richly embroidered with gold.
+There were very few men in a company. It seemed very
+strange that the musicians, who preceded them, were, for
+the most, in plain clothes of all colours, with round hats.
+"The Yankee-doodle," the favourite popular song of the
+Americans, was heard in different directions; and it is much
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span>
+to the credit of this motley assemblage, that there was no
+impropriety of conduct or unseemly noise. The effect of
+the light on the mixed crowd of whites and negroes was very
+interesting, and we enjoyed the scene till the coolness and
+damp of the night air made us retire to our inn.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, the shops were opened, and
+Boston resumed its usual appearance of commercial activity.
+Our baggage was put on board a schooner bound to New
+York, to which city I wished to go by land. Our next excursion
+was to the monument on Bunker's Hill, from which
+there is the best view of the surrounding country.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning we got into our carriages, and drove
+rapidly through the streets, refreshed by the cool morning
+breeze, where many wagons were arriving with the productions
+of the environs. We noticed vehicles of various
+descriptions, with four or two wheels, often with an awning
+of linen, or leather, open at the sides, and drawn by two or
+four horses. The drivers, generally in a white summer dress,
+with straw hats, sit on a bear skin, which is here worth eight
+or ten dollars. On the causeway, out of the city, the dust
+was troublesome, but a number of water-carts (like those
+used in the streets of London) were already preparing to
+water the road.</p>
+
+<p>Boston is joined to the continent by a narrow tongue of
+land, at the two sides of which creeks, or bays run into the
+land. Over these creeks there are several long wooden
+bridges, made to draw up in the middle, one of which leads,
+in a north-west direction, to the neighbouring town of Charlestown;
+another, more to the south, to Cambridge, where
+there is a college, or university. All these places have been
+described by several travellers. We took the road through
+Charlestown, to the Navy Yard, close to which is the eminence
+on which the Bunker's Hill monument is erected. The
+hill is called Breed's Hill, and immediately beyond it is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span>
+Bunker's Hill, where the English troops were posted during
+the battle fought in 1775. The Americans were repulsed,
+and lost their leader, who was a physician. The monument
+in memory of this action <span class="opage">7</span> has been begun on the foremost,
+or Breed's Hill. The granite (Quincy granite) employed in
+it is found in the neighbourhood, and is of a grey colour.</p>
+
+<p>It was intended, originally, that this monument should
+be 210 feet high; it is now meant to be only 180 feet high.
+What is already done is a pyramid between fifty and sixty
+feet in height, which was covered with a temporary wooden
+roof. Withinside, a convenient stone staircase leads to the
+top, and from the small windows in the roof, there is an incomparable
+view over the city of Boston, Charlestown, the
+two inlets, the long bridges, the Bay of Boston, with its
+diversified islands, and the ships with their white swelling
+sails, coming from, and bound to, all parts of the world.
+Looking into the country, there is an alternation of verdant
+hills, numerous villages, and dark woods; the whole forming
+a highly picturesque landscape. Cattle were grazing near
+the monument, on the green hill; a well-dressed boy was
+employed in milking the cows.<a name="FNanchor_22" id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></p>
+
+<p>From Bunker's Hill we went to Cambridge, and had, on
+this road, the first sight of an American landscape. Meadows,
+partly covered with arundinaceous plants, corn-fields,
+and European fruit trees, alternated with small thickets and
+groves. The apples that grow here are said to be yellow, and
+not particularly good; they are chiefly used to make cider.
+On almost all these fruit trees we saw caterpillars' nests of
+extraordinary size, they being often a foot and more in diameter.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span>
+The butterfly which produces them must be in vast
+numbers, and it is surprising that more care is not taken to
+destroy them. The road was bordered with trees, as is
+generally the case here; we observed <i>Celtis occidentalis</i>,
+Lombardy poplars, partly lopped, and not growing to any
+great height. The thickets consisted of oaks, with various
+deeply indented leaves, in general of a beautiful shining
+green; different kinds of walnut, ash, and elm, which always
+attain a great height here, and, where they stand free, the
+stems are clothed with thick boughs down to the ground.
+The low thickets were of a bright green, and in adjacent
+meadows, which were partly marshy, grew plants, much
+resembling those of Europe, such as <i>Ranunculus</i>, <i>Pyrethrum</i>,
+several with white flowers of the genus <i>Syngenesia</i>; both
+a white clover and a red clover, common with us, seemed to
+be generally cultivated, as well as potatoes, corn, and maize.
+This part of the country has, on the whole, the European
+character&mdash;like England, for instance&mdash;but it is even now
+more wooded, and pines of different kinds give a variety:
+the population, too, is distributed in a different manner.
+In one of the nearest thickets, a little songster (<i>Sylvia �stiva</i>),
+and some other birds, reminded me that I was not in Europe,
+but on the borders of the northern part of the New World,
+and the beautiful Icterus Baltimore flew to the higher thickets;
+and I very well distinguished its black and bright red
+plumage. These new objects gave <span class="opage">8</span> us great pleasure, and
+we only regretted that we could not immediately pursue them.
+On the summit of the gentle eminences we came to Cambridge
+College, which is very agreeably situated on a verdant lawn,
+shaded with trees, and surrounded by avenues of elms,
+Weymouth pines, maples, ash, planes, and other shady trees.
+The buildings stand separately; and in all the gardens of
+the neat habitations, we observed, in general, European
+plants&mdash;the rose, syringa, hibiscus, and but few American
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span>
+plants, of which the trumpet tree was not then in blossom.
+My visit might have been very interesting if I had known
+that Mr. Nuttal,<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> one of the most active naturalists and
+travellers in North America, held an office in this college.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to Boston, we visited many of the curiosities
+of the city, which are enumerated in various works.
+Among them I mention only the New England Museum,<a name="FNanchor_24" id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a>
+as in part, at least, an institution for natural history, but
+where the expectation of the stranger is grievously disappointed.
+These museums, as they are styled, in all the
+larger cities of the United States, except, perhaps, the Peale
+Museum, at Philadelphia, are an accumulation of all sorts
+of curiosities, the selection of which is most extraordinary.
+Here we find specimens of natural history; stiff, awkward,
+wax figures; mathematical and other instruments,
+models, bad paintings and engravings, caricatures; nay,
+even the little prints out of our journals of the fashions, &amp;c.,
+hung up without any order. Among the animals there are
+some interesting specimens, but without any ticket or further
+direction. This collection was placed in several stories
+of a lofty house, in narrow passages, rooms, and closets,
+connected by many flights of steps; and to attract the public,
+a man played on the harpsichord during our visit&mdash;a
+concert which could have no great charms for us.</p>
+
+<p>Boston, however, has much that is worthy of notice,
+and numerous excellent institutions, respecting which the
+many descriptive works may be consulted, which treat on
+the subject more in detail than a passing traveller can do.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span>
+As my time was limited, I took places in a stage-coach that
+was to set out at noon for Providence, from Bunker's coach-office,
+at the Marlborough hotel. The establishment of
+stage-coaches, and the mode of travelling in this country,
+have been accurately described by Duke Bernhard of Saxe
+Weimar;<a name="FNanchor_25" id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> I therefore merely say, that we went in a commodious
+stage, with nine seats inside, and four good horses,
+which carried us at a rapid pace from Boston to New Providence,
+forty-one miles distant, where we embarked for New
+York.</p>
+
+<p>The causeway was a good, solid, broad road, paved in
+some places, and very dusty at this dry season; it led over
+low hills and plains. Near the city there is a great number
+of pretty, and some elegant country houses; and as they
+became less numerous, they were succeeded by the houses
+of the farmers and planters, which are spread over the whole
+country. All these farm-houses are slightly built, boarded,
+and roofed with shingles; often grey, of the natural colour
+of the wood; but many of those belonging to the richer class
+are neatly painted, and variously ornamented. The walls,
+even of large buildings of this kind, are extremely thin, and
+one would think they <span class="opage">9</span> must be too slight for the cold
+winters of this country. It seems quite inconceivable that,
+throughout the United States, you find only open fireplaces;
+and very rarely good stoves, against which the Americans
+are prejudiced, because they are not aware of their great
+superiority. The business of the occupant is painted on
+the house in large letters, as in England and France.</p>
+
+<p>The road by which we travelled was often bounded by
+hedges, or by walls of blocks of granite, or other kinds of
+stone, on which plantain, elder, stagshorn, sumach, &amp;c.,
+were growing. In the low marshy meadows were willows,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>
+a kind of reed mace, cotton grass, rushes, and, in the water,
+adder's tongue. Near the road, the hills, which here and
+there gradually rise to a great elevation, are covered with
+shrubs and trees, among which we noticed some firs, mixed
+with the other trees.</p>
+
+<p>Juniper trees, from fifteen to twenty feet high, grew in all
+these woods, partly as underwood. In the low grounds,
+near the road, we observed luxuriant tufts of various kinds
+of oak, walnut trees&mdash;some with large shining leaves,
+chestnuts, now in blossom, and many other kinds of trees
+cultivated in European gardens. Wild vines, with the under
+side of the leaves whitish, twine round many of the bushes;
+but, in these northern parts, they do not attain a great height.
+These thickets alternate with open tracts of land, where the
+peasants, tanned by the powerful American sun, wearing
+large straw hats, were busily employed in making hay.</p>
+
+<p>However small and poor the dwellings, we still saw at the
+windows, and before the doors, the women, most elegantly
+and fashionably dressed, engaged in their household employments.
+In this land of freedom, nobody, of course,
+will allow his neighbour to have an advantage over him;
+hence we often see silk gowns, and the newest fashions of
+all kinds, in laughable contrast with the poor little habitations.
+Small country carts pass the traveller, in which, beside
+the owner, who drives, sits a country lady, handsomely
+attired, who looks like a copy of some <i>journal des modes</i>.
+The dress of the countrymen is, in general, not so fine, but
+is, in some degree, according to the man's circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>We were much pleased with some thick forests of oak,
+with beautiful glossy (often deeply indented) leaves, of a
+great variety of forms. Forests, consisting wholly of the
+Weymouth pine, alternated with the oak. The trunks were
+large, but the height of the tree was not great in proportion.
+Among them there was always a number of dead trees;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>
+others had a quantity of bearded moss hanging on them;
+in a word, though so near to the habitations of man, and in
+a cultivated country, they had more of the wild character
+of unreclaimed nature than our European forests. In many
+places there were openings into dark forests, to a great
+distance; and, now and then, into lovely valleys, with a lake
+or a river, where the white buildings had a very picturesque
+appearance, contrasted with the dark woods and the green
+meadows. Mr. Bodmer, however, was not satisfied with
+all these landscapes: he had expected to find, at once, in
+America, forms differing from those of Europe; but these
+must be looked for under another zone; for, in <span class="opage">10</span> North
+America, the general character of the vegetation resembles
+that of Europe. In some parts, we remarked in the meadows
+large stones, something like those in Westphalia, or in the
+Westerwald, in Germany.</p>
+
+<p>We changed horses at three places, at one of which we
+had dinner, which, as in England, was ready when the
+passengers arrived. The regulations here have an advantage
+over those in most parts of Europe, inasmuch as fees are
+nowhere given, so that you cannot be molested by the importunity
+of the driver: on the other hand, the coachman
+dines at the same table as the passengers. You are, however,
+pretty secure against the conversation of unpolished
+people, because the Americans are usually mute at table.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening we reached Pawtucket, a neat town on
+the river of the same name, in the state of Massachusetts.
+The place has manufactures of various kinds, and is animated
+by trade and industry. The river empties itself into
+Narraganset bay, and is said to have falls of fifty feet. We
+soon travelled the few miles from this place to Providence.
+The evening being fine, the journey was very pleasant: the
+road was full of stages, cabriolets, farmers' wagons, and
+smart country ladies, whose veils on their large fashionable
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>
+hats waved in the wind; they were generally seated in little
+chaise carts, the seats of which were covered with bear
+skins.</p>
+
+<p>At Providence, which we reached before night, we put up
+at Franklin House, a respectable inn. A crowd of idle gentlemen
+and other curious persons stared at us, and laughed in
+our faces, when they found, by our pronunciation, that we
+were foreigners. We had to pass some days here, waiting
+for the return of a steam-boat from New York; we therefore
+employed this interval in exploring the town and neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Providence is a busy town, the capital of the state of Rhode
+Island, and situated on an arm of the sea. It is built partly
+on sandy hills, partly on the low ground next the sea, has
+some good new streets, and a brisk trade, as appears from the
+many ships at anchor. There is no want of handsome shops,
+and several public buildings deserve notice; such as twelve
+churches, several colleges, and other public institutions, which
+I forbear to enumerate. In the churches the singular style
+of the architecture calls for censure:&mdash;they are of brick, with
+steeples variously ornamented, but often painted with glaring
+colours; for instance, the lower part reddish brown, with the
+frames of the windows and of the doors white; the upper
+part bright yellow with white. There is a considerable degree
+of luxury at Providence. The women appear in the
+streets in the most expensive dresses; and the country ladies
+(farmers' wives), whom I have so often mentioned, dressed
+in silk, and wearing large straw bonnets and veils, bring
+milk to market in little carts. This love of finery is quite a
+characteristic trait in the American people; but it is, at the
+same time, an indication of prosperity; for it is true that,
+in this country, there are neither poor nor beggars; and if
+you see people doing nothing, they are generally new comers
+from Europe. Negroes and their coloured descendants
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span>
+are more numerous here than in Boston and the northern
+parts.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">11</span> The next day was Sunday, in the observance of which
+the Americans are very scrupulous. All the people, with
+their books under their arms, proceeded to the churches, the
+bells of which were very slowly tolled. The streets were quite
+still on this day, and all the shops closed; but, then, numerous
+carriages and cabriolets, filled with finely-dressed people,
+were in motion. We strolled about the surrounding country,
+which, in general, has a dead and rather sterile appearance.
+Here, too, we saw, almost exclusively, European trees and
+flowers in the gardens; there were, however, some peculiar
+to the country, among which the magnolia was now in
+blossom.</p>
+
+<p>Intelligence had been received from New York that the
+cholera had broken out there, and that numbers of the inhabitants
+were leaving the city. On the arrival of the Boston
+steam-boat, the Captain confirmed this unwelcome news,
+which, however, did not deter us from embarking in this fine
+vessel for New York. On the 8th of July, in the afternoon,
+we went on board the steam-boat, which had above 100 passengers.
+The Boston was a large, handsome vessel, about
+the size of a frigate. It had three decks; in the lower part
+was the large dining and sleeping room, where above 100
+persons were very well provided for. On the middle deck
+there was a cabin for the ladies, with twenty-four beds.
+The numerous attendants were negroes and mulattoes of
+both sexes, all free people. The vessel had two low-pressure
+engines, which are thought to be less dangerous than
+the high-pressure engines, though the Americans affirm the
+contrary. On the upper deck was a pavilion, with glass
+windows, in which, when the weather was unfavourable,
+the company could sit and enjoy the prospect.</p>
+
+<p>When all the passengers were on board, one of the engines
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span>
+was set to work, and when we got further from shore, the
+other also. The low, sandy coast, partly covered with trees,
+where towns alternated with forests, quickly disappeared.
+The sky was dark and cloudy, and a cool, fresh breeze blew.
+We reached the strongly fortified town of Newport, where
+many small vessels lay at anchor. The place is distinguished
+by three forts, and other fortifications, and a lighthouse.
+When twilight set in we were already in sight of the open
+sea, which, however, remained visible for a short time only,
+because we steered to the right, into the channel between
+the continent and Long Island.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 9th of July, the sky was gloomy,
+and the sea much agitated. On our left we had the coast
+of Long Island, which, in general, is not high, but has some
+more elevated parts, with an alternation of sand, bushes,
+and brushwood. Some very picturesque and diversified
+inlets run into the land. The channel becomes gradually
+narrower, and the beauty of the landscape increases in the
+same proportion. One narrow place is called Hellgate: there
+are here many rocky islets covered with sumach bushes
+(<i>Rhus typhinum</i>). At length, turning round a point of the
+continent, a new and most picturesque scene presented itself.
+We were in what is called the East River, an arm of the sea,
+open towards New York, which is connected with the Hudson
+or North River, one of the most beautiful rivers in North
+America. At the conflux <span class="opage">12</span> of both, lies the city. The
+banks of the East River are like an English park, shaded
+by beautiful copses and groups of lofty trees: the ground
+was clothed with the brightest and most luxuriant verdure,
+with tall tulip trees, planes, Babylonian willows, Lombardy
+poplars, and many others, alternating with green
+meadows, where there are neat, and often elegant country-houses;
+and the eye is charmed by many fine prospects and
+a great diversity of scenery. Passing the Navy Yard, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>
+is situated on a point of land, the great city of New York,
+with its innumerable masts, lies before you. As you approach
+and enter the broad and extensive piece of water formed
+by the conflux of the East and North Rivers, you see the
+whole mass of houses, with countless ships, which line both
+the banks to a considerable distance, with a forest of masts,
+to which few other cities can present a parallel. The steamer
+landed us at a spot where, notwithstanding the heavy rain,
+there was a great crowd of people collected. Porters, black
+workmen, and coachmen in abundance, with loud cries,
+and much importunity, offered their services; and we immediately
+proceeded to the American Hotel, a considerable
+inn, in one of the handsomest squares in the city.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a></p>
+
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER II</p>
+<p class="center">STAY IN NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, AND BORDENTOWN, FROM 9TH TO
+16TH JULY</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+New York&mdash;Bloomingdale&mdash;Hoboken&mdash;New Brunswick&mdash;Trenton&mdash;Bordentown&mdash;Philadelphia&mdash;Fair
+Mount, with the water-works&mdash;Stay
+at Bordentown&mdash;Park of the Count de Survilliers&mdash;Excursions
+in the forests&mdash;Return to Philadelphia.</p>
+
+<p>New York is but little inferior to the capital cities of
+Europe, with the exception of London and Paris. It has,
+at present, 220,000 inhabitants, and its commerce is so extensive,
+animated, and active, that, in this respect, it is
+scarcely surpassed by any. There are so many descriptions
+of this great city, that to say much on the subject would be
+merely repetition. The first impression that it made on me
+was very striking, on account of the beauty of its situation.
+In the interior the style of building resembles that of many
+English cities. It has one remarkably fine street, called
+the Broadway, which traverses its whole length; other parts
+are old, and not so handsome. In the Broadway, which is
+the favourite resort of the fashionable world, is an uninterrupted
+line of shops, but little inferior to those of London
+and Paris. The city is extremely animated, and people of
+all nations carry on business here. We were assured that
+the population had been diminished, in a few days, by the
+emigration of 20,000 of the inhabitants, who had fled to other
+towns for fear of the cholera.<a name="FNanchor_26" id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> It is well known that this
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span>
+lamentable disease had been very fatal in Canada, and had
+now penetrated into the Northern States of the Union: it
+was raging in Albany, on the Hudson, at Detroit, and on
+the great lakes, so that it seemed as if it would defeat our
+project of beginning our journey to the interior by that route.
+This had been my plan, in which the recommendations of
+our worthy countryman, Mr. Astor,<a name="FNanchor_27" id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> would have been of
+great service, as he is the founder and head of the American
+Fur Company, which has spread its trading stations over
+the whole of the interior of North America. I formed
+numerous interesting acquaintances, in a short time, in New
+York. Several estimable fellow-countrymen, Messrs. Gebhard
+and Schuchart, and Mr. Iselin, did their utmost to
+afford us their counsel and assistance. Mr. Schmidt, the
+Prussian consul, contributed not a little to make our stay
+in this city agreeable; and so did Mr. Meier and other of
+our German friends. Mr. Schmidt has a country-house at
+Bloomingdale, <span class="opage">14</span> where we passed some very pleasant
+days in the circle of his amiable family. Mrs. Schmidt, an
+American lady, had visited Europe and travelled in Germany,
+and remembered, with pleasure, the banks of the
+Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>The house at which Mr. Schmidt resides in the summer,
+is charmingly situated on the banks of that picturesque
+river, the Hudson, seven miles from the town. The pretty
+dwelling-house, with a veranda all round, covered with
+passion flowers, honeysuckles, the red trumpet flower, and
+other beautiful climbing plants, stands on a verdant lawn,
+shaded by lofty trees, among which we observed the finest
+kinds of this country, the trunks of which were slender,
+and straight as pillars. The park extends to the Hudson,
+where the tall sassafras, tulip, oak, walnut, and other trees,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span>
+protected us by their shade; while the large steam-boats,
+rapidly passing on the bright surface of the Hudson, had
+a very picturesque effect. Mr. Schmidt had the kindness
+to afford us an admirable view of what is called the island
+of New York. Near Bloomingdale is a large and very well
+conducted lunatic asylum, from the lofty roof of which we
+enjoyed an inexpressibly beautiful, extensive, and interesting
+prospect of the whole country. From this spot we
+overlooked the East and North Rivers, the broad bend of
+the latter, and its high banks towards Albany; to the north,
+dark forests, with detached dwellings and country seats;
+and, in all directions, luxuriant green thickets, towns,
+villages, and handsome country-houses. At our feet, contrasting
+with that rich and noble view, full of variety and
+life, we looked down on the buildings and court-yards of the
+hospital, in which we could observe the patients; while, in
+another enclosed space, Virginian deer were sporting and
+playing. This asylum is a very excellent establishment,
+and contains a great number of patients: the physician resides
+in the house, and was so good as to show us over it.
+New York has many such useful institutions,&mdash;hospitals,
+poorhouses, and houses of correction, in which latter the
+young, who may still be reclaimed, are not mixed with
+the old, hardened offenders, but are kept apart. There is
+an asylum for the deaf and dumb, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Our returning from Bloomingdale, in the evening, was
+extremely agreeable, the weather being delightful. In the
+dark thickets and woods were swarms of fire-flies; and from
+the marshes and pools came the croakings of the frogs, with
+which we were not yet familiar; but we did not hear that of
+the celebrated bull-frog.</p>
+
+<p>The most beautiful spots and environs of New York are
+indebted for the attraction of their views, to the variety of the
+waters surrounding the city: thus, for instance, at the end
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span>
+of the Broadway, is the Castle Garden, formerly a circular
+fort, the walls of which are converted into a public walk.
+From the wall itself is a fine prospect of the noble harbour,
+the neighbouring city, the banks, the opposite coast, and the
+broad river, where ships of every kind and of all nations
+are coming and going. Another favourite place of resort
+is the garden at Hoboken, the name of which indicates its
+Dutch origin, for it is well known that the Dutch founded
+the first considerable settlement in this place, numerous
+traces of which still remain. <span class="opage">15</span> The communication with
+Hoboken is by means of a steam-boat. The garden extends
+along the banks of the Hudson, and the lofty trees and
+thickets are pleasing and interesting to the stranger. The
+tall hickory and other kinds of walnut trees had now their
+fruit half grown. Storax trees (<i>Liquidambar styraciflua</i>),
+with their maple-like leaves, grow very high and straight,
+<i>Gleditschia triacanthos</i> and <i>inermis</i>, with wild vines, climbing
+round them; and many other fine forest trees afford protection
+against the heat of the summer. Many European
+trees and shrubs, too, have been planted here. Thus we
+saw a hedge of whitethorn, the growth of which, however,
+was stunted by other wood. Many birds, whose notes were
+unknown to us, were heard in these shades. On my first
+visit to New York, I was interested by some collections of
+natural history; for instance, two museums, one of which,
+belonging to Mr. Peale, is, however, much inferior to that
+of his brother at Philadelphia. Being anxious to see Philadelphia,
+I hastened to set out for that city, and left New
+York, where the cholera was daily spreading more and more.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th, at six in the morning, I embarked on board
+the Swan steam-boat, which was so crowded with passengers
+that there was scarcely room to sit down. On our left we
+had Staten Land; but we soon turned to the right, into the
+river Raritan, on which New Brunswick is situated.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span></p>
+
+<p>New Brunswick is a village, consisting of many straggling
+streets, where all the passengers landed from the steam-boat,
+and took their seats in stage-coaches, drawn by four horses,
+which were standing ready to receive them. The heat was
+great, the company very mixed, and I had the misfortune
+to have noisy and disagreeable companions. A long hill,
+with steep sides, which appears to consist of a reddish clay,
+extends along the water-side to New Brunswick. On the
+eminence above the town it was naked and rather sterile;
+the road was bad, and we were roughly jolted as we drove
+rapidly along. Meadows, fields of clover, rye, oats, and
+maize succeeded each other in the vicinity of the habitations,
+as well as plantations of European fruit trees, full of large
+caterpillar's nests, but flourishing in the greatest luxuriance.
+The beautiful red trumpet flower partly covered the sides of
+the houses, about which Italian poplars and Babylonian
+willows were frequently planted; the latter are often very
+high and spreading. The cattle are partly without horns.
+Sheep and swine were numerous.</p>
+
+<p>While we were changing horses at Kingston, negro and
+other children offered milk, little cakes, and half-ripe fruit
+for sale, of which a great deal was bought. Some German
+peasants, lately arrived from Europe, who were welcomed
+by their relations, previously settled in the country, completely
+filled a couple of stages, and were not a little merry,
+in their low German language, at which Americans laughed
+heartily. From this place the country was rather woody.
+Here and there were fine forests, the shade of which was
+very refreshing in this hot weather. The growth of timber
+was very fine. A pretty wild rose blossomed among the
+bushes in the meadows. Oak, sassafras, walnut, chestnut,
+plane, and tulip trees, displayed their luxuriant foliage of
+various and often glossy green. The tulip trees, when young,
+are distinguished by <span class="opage">16</span> their pyramidal shape and beautiful
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>
+light green leaves; they were at this time covered with
+their seed vessels, which were full-grown, but not ripe. The
+branching phytolacea, and the thorn-apple with its large
+white flowers, which were now open, as well as several
+plants brought from Europe, grew in abundance by the road-side,
+also species of sumach, partly entwined with wild vine;
+and in the forest was underwood of <i>Rhododendron maximum</i>.
+We passed rapidly through Prince Town, and arrived at
+Trenton, on the Delaware, a straggling town, lying among
+thickets, on the low banks of the river. A long, covered
+wooden bridge led to the opposite bank of this broad river,
+which was animated by ships and boats. Such colossal,
+covered wooden bridges are very common in the United
+States; and many travellers have already described the construction
+of these useless masses of timber. From Trenton,
+we hastened over a sandy tract to another place on the river,
+opposite to which is Bordentown, and at a short distance
+lay the steam-boat, Trenton, ready to convey us down the
+river to Philadelphia. We descended the fine river Delaware,
+the low, verdant banks of which are covered with many
+towns, settlements, and country houses; here and there,
+too, with forests of oaks, &amp;c., and of a kind of pine (<i>pinus
+rigida</i>).<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> After taking dinner, at which we were waited
+on by negroes and mulattoes, we reached Philadelphia about
+five or six o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>This city extends a great way along the right bank of the
+Delaware, but has by no means so beautiful and striking an
+effect as New York. It is large and regularly built; the long,
+straight streets crossing each other at right angles. The
+modern part of the city is handsome, consisting of lofty
+brick buildings, ornamented in the English fashion; but the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span>
+older parts of Philadelphia consist of low, mean houses. It
+is very judicious that, in hot weather, an agreeable shady
+walk is formed by awnings spread before the houses,
+and that the streets are well watered. The water-works are
+at Fairmount, where there is a basin, from which pipes convey
+the water to every part of the city.</p>
+
+<p>The streets which run at right angles to the Delaware
+are called by the names of different kinds of trees&mdash;Mulberry
+Street, Walnut Street, Chestnut Street, &amp;c.: the
+streets which cross them are numbered, First Street, Second
+Street, Third Street, &amp;c. Chestnut Street, without doubt
+the finest, is full of life and traffic. A part of it has, in the
+middle, a shady avenue of lime trees; and, besides, there are,
+in many of the streets, rows of trees which do not yet afford
+much shade. Splendid shops, in almost uninterrupted succession,
+line the streets, and you find here all the manufactures
+and produce of the other quarters of the globe. The
+ancient, injudicious practice of having the churchyards in
+the towns is still retained in America. They are filled with
+great numbers of whitish monuments, of various forms, often
+planted with high trees, and lie quite exposed to view, being
+separated from the street only by an iron railing. Philadelphia
+has a considerable number of public buildings,
+especially many churches and meeting-houses of <span class="opage">17</span> different
+religious denominations, most of which are extremely
+plain brick buildings, without any external ornaments whatever.
+This country has no history like the Old World, and
+therefore we look in vain for the ancient Gothic cathedrals,
+and those awe-inspiring monuments of past ages, from which
+the traveller in Europe derives so much pleasure and instruction.
+Besides the churches, the principal buildings
+are the State House, where the independence of the country
+was proclaimed on the 4th of July, 1776, the United States
+Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Exchange, the University
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span>
+and the Medical College, the Mint, some hospitals,
+the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, and many others, which it
+would lead us too far to mention here.</p>
+
+<p>Philadelphia would make a more striking impression if
+we could find a spot commanding a view of the whole; but
+as it lies in the plain between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill,
+which unite five miles below the city, no such spot is to
+be found.</p>
+
+<p>It is well known that this city was founded, in 1682, by
+William Penn, a Quaker, who concluded, under an elm tree,
+which recently fell down from age, a convention with the
+Delaware Indians, the proprietors of the soil, by which
+they ceded to him a tract of land. Philadelphia, literally
+"the city of the brethren" (Quakers), contains people from
+all the nations of Europe, especially Germans, French, and
+English. In some parts of the city, German is almost exclusively
+spoken. In the year 1834, the population consisted
+of 80,406 whites, and 59,482 people of colour. I arrived in
+Philadelphia at an unfavourable moment, for the cholera had
+already manifested itself also in that city. Letters of introduction
+from Europe procured me a kind reception in some
+houses; but, on the other hand, I had not an opportunity
+of becoming acquainted with several scientific gentlemen,
+because, being physicians, they were now particularly engaged.
+Professor Harlan, M. D., well known to the learned
+world as an author, was of the number.<a name="FNanchor_29" id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Mr. Krumbhaar,
+a German, to whom I had letters, received me with much
+kindness, and introduced me to many agreeable acquaintances.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span>
+He took me to the water-works at Fair Mount, one
+of the most interesting spots near the city, which are indeed
+worth seeing. The road led past the House of Correction,
+where young offenders, who are still capable of being reclaimed,
+are confined. On the bank of the river, there are
+buildings in which large wheels set in motion the machinery
+by which the water is raised to the reservoirs, on an eminence
+about eighty feet high, whence the pipes are carried
+to all parts of the city. The rocky eminence, from which
+a fine, clear spring rises, is provided with stairs and balustrades,
+and adorned with elegant pavilions, which command
+a view of the water-works, and of the beautiful valley of the
+Schuylkill. It is a favourite promenade, and daily resorted
+to by numbers of persons, as they can have all kinds of
+refreshments there. Beautiful plants, the catalpa, plantain,
+&amp;c., grow among the rocks with great luxuriance, being
+watered by the springs. We crossed the great bridge over
+the Schuylkill, to return to the city, where I made but a short
+stay, because my fellow-travellers were still detained at New
+York, waiting for our baggage from Boston. As <span class="opage">18</span> all the
+roads were crowded with fugitives from New York, it was
+not a favourable moment for travelling; I therefore resolved
+on an excursion to Bordentown, in order to obtain some
+little knowledge of the forests of New Jersey.</p>
+
+<p>I left Philadelphia, on board the Burlington steam-boat,
+about noon, and arrived at Bordentown between four and
+five o'clock. At this place are the estates of the Count de
+Survilliers (Joseph Buonaparte), who had but lately sailed
+for Europe.<a name="FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> The pleasant country house, in the fine park,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
+is about 300 paces from the village, near to the high road,
+and near, also, to the iron railway from Amboy to Camden,
+opposite to Philadelphia.<a name="FNanchor_31" id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> Workmen were employed in
+making this road, in doing which, advantage was taken of
+the hollow of the valley, so that the railway was much below
+the common road, or the street of the town. I found some
+interesting plants in the woods opposite the Count's park.
+There were three or four kinds of oak, among which are the
+<i>Quercus ferruginea</i>, with its large, peculiarly shaped leaves;
+the white oak, the leaves of which are the most like the
+European; also, varieties of walnut trees, chestnuts, and the
+sassafras, a fine, tall tree, which was just then in blossom,
+the leaves of which often vary in shape. The undergrowth
+of this forest, in which pines were mixed with other trees,
+consisted of <i>Rhododendron maximum</i> (Pennsylvania mountain
+laurel) and kalmia, the latter of which, in the deep shade,
+was already out of flower; but the former still had its large
+bunches of beautiful white or pale red blossoms, and was
+from ten to fifteen feet high. The stiff, laurel-like, dried
+leaves of this fine plant covered the ground, and crackled
+as we passed along, which reminded me of the Brazilian
+forests, where this occurs in a much greater degree. On
+open, uncultivated spots, the great mullein (<i>Verbascum
+thapsus</i>), with its yellow flowers, and large, woolly leaves,
+grew in great abundance, and likewise the phytolacea.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>
+Among the thick blackberry bushes, entwined with vines,
+by the road-side, I observed the little striped squirrel, which
+doubtless climbs to get at the fruit.</p>
+
+<p>At ten o'clock, the heat was already so intense that I
+returned to the inn, where I arrived very much fatigued.
+This house is very pleasantly situated on an eminence above
+the Delaware, at the place where the steam-boats arrive,
+and from which there is a fine view of the arm of the river,
+and the adjacent lowland, covered with woods and thickets.
+A great ornament of this landscape is the white garden-pavilion
+of Count Survilliers, which rises above the thick
+groves on the left bank of the Delaware, above Bordentown.
+In the cool of the evening I usually went to this park. The
+house itself is a pretty building, on a lawn near the water-side,
+where oleander and orange plants are placed. The park
+is very shady, and extends along the Croswick Creek, towards
+which the bank forms a steep, wildly wooded declivity. In
+this wood there was likewise a thick undergrowth of <i>Rhododendron
+maximum</i>, now in full blossom. On an eminence
+immediately above the river, stands a kind of tower, several
+stories high, upon a terrace, from the gallery of which is a
+fine and extensive view over the low, wooded country, and
+the arms of the river. From this place winding paths lead
+through the gloomy forest of <span class="opage">19</span> pine trees, of different
+varieties, where many birds, of kinds unknown to me, were
+flying about. The cat bird (<i>Turdus felivox</i>, Vieill.), whose
+voice has a slight resemblance to that of a cat, was very
+numerous in this place. From the top of the wooded bank
+a sort of bridge has been carried out, a great height above
+the river, and a square place furnished with seats, from
+which you overlook the whole country. An old Canadian
+pine stands at the edge of the bank, some branches of which
+we carried off, by way of memorial. The view from this
+place is remarkably beautiful; to the right and left extends
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span>
+the river, or rather broad brook, which, at the feet of the
+spectator, is covered with water plants. The yellow-blossomed
+<i>Nymph�a adversus</i>, and the beautiful <i>Pontederia cordata</i>
+grow here in great abundance. There was plenty of
+occupation for the botanist and the ornithologist, and the
+sportsman would have reason to be satisfied, for in the neighbouring
+thickets there were deer (<i>Cervus virginianus</i>), and
+hares (<i>Lepus Americanus</i>), which frequently crossed our
+path.<a name="FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p>
+
+<p>On my return to Bordentown, I found before the door
+of the inn a number of gentlemen lying in more than
+easy positions on the benches; the chief subject of conversation
+was the cholera, which filled the whole country with
+terror.</p>
+
+<p>It was precisely the hottest part of summer, and it was
+scarcely possible to protect one's self against the swarms of
+European flies, which are very numerous. On this account
+there are, in the inns, negroes and mulattoes, who attend at
+table, and give the company rest from those troublesome
+insects, and, at the same time, cool air, by fanning them with
+fans, made of feathers, often those of the peacock. Fans are,
+in fact, an article of luxury, and are purchased in the towns;
+they are made of the tail feathers of the wild turkey, the crane,
+or the swan, of palm leaves, &amp;c. It was so hot in the daytime,
+that it was hardly possible to leave the house; and the
+cholera, therefore, spread rapidly in New York. In this
+sultry season, the evenings were really refreshing, and gave
+new life both to men and animals. When it became dusk,
+luminous insects flew about, and the crickets chirped in notes
+like those in Europe, but in more rapid succession.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day I visited other places and woods in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>
+the vicinity of Bordentown. The town itself is built in the
+country fashion, with regular, broad, unpaved streets or
+roads, and the houses lie detached from each other, shaded
+by rows of trees: this is very necessary, for now, at 10
+o'clock in the morning, Fahrenheit's thermometer, in the
+cool passage of the inn, was at 73�. The avenues of trees
+in the town consisted of robinia, paper-mulberry, large-leaved
+poplars, which exude an aromatic gum, weeping willows, and
+Syrian mallow, which latter grow to the height of ten
+and even fifteen feet. These plants, with their beautiful
+flowers, flourish here in much greater perfection than in
+Germany. In the gardens we observed monarda (Oswego
+tea), <span class="opage">20</span> the Indian cress (<i>trop�olum</i>), purple convolvulus,
+buckthorn (<i>Lycum Europeum</i>), the climbing trumpet flower,
+vine, catalpa, larkspur, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>From Bordentown I sometimes passed beyond the iron
+railroad, and penetrated into the neighbouring forest. Five
+or six species of oak, several kinds of walnut trees, beeches,
+chestnuts, and dogwood, formed the thick wood, the undergrowth
+of which consisted of <i>Rhododendron maximum</i>,
+kalmia, rhus, and tall juniper.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd of July I left Bordentown, and returned to
+Philadelphia, as our baggage had not yet arrived from Boston.
+I made use of this interval to examine the museum of Mr.
+Titian Peale, which contains the best collection of natural
+history in the United States. There is the fine large skeleton
+of the Ohio elephant (<i>Mastodon, Cuv.</i>), and likewise most of
+the animals of North America, pretty well stuffed. Among
+them I noticed, especially, the bison, the bighorn or wild
+sheep of the rocky mountains, the prairie antelope (<i>Antilocapra
+Americana Ord.</i>), the elk (<i>Cervus major</i>, or <i>Canadensis</i>)
+the grisly bear (<i>Ursus ferox</i>), and others. Mr. Peale, the
+owner, accompanied the expedition under Major Long to the
+Rocky Mountains, where he procured part of these specimens
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span>
+himself.<a name="FNanchor_33" id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> There are likewise many specimens of foreign
+animals; for instance, a rhinoceros; and the collection of Indian
+dresses, utensils, and arms, is, I think, the most important
+that I have yet seen. I was particularly interested by
+some oil paintings of Indian villages and scenery by Seymour.
+This artist also accompanied Major Long's expedition. Mr.
+Peale's collection deserves precedence above all the public
+museums in the United States, for its more scientific arrangement,
+and because fewer trifling nicknacks have been
+admitted into it. Mr. Peale has also travelled in South
+America, and his health was still suffering from his visit to
+that country.</p>
+
+<p>As the study of the aboriginal nations of America had peculiar
+attractions for me, I searched the shops of all the
+booksellers and printsellers, for good representations of that
+interesting race; but how much was I astonished, that I
+could not find, in all the towns of this country, one good,
+that is, characteristic representation of them, but only some
+bad or very indifferent copper-plates, which are in books of
+travels! It is incredible how much the original American
+race is hated and neglected by the foreign usurpers. Only
+a few eminent men, who have felt this reproach and defect,
+are now exerting themselves to rescue from oblivion the
+neglected materials, scarce as they now are, after it has become
+next to impossible to collect anything complete respecting
+the history of many exterminated Indian tribes. Messrs.
+Morse, Smith Barton, Edwin James, Say, Duponceau, Schoolcraft,
+Cass, Mc Kenney, and some others, are an honourable
+exception in this respect. A fine work, with coloured lithographic
+plates, was contemplated at Philadelphia, which
+deserves encouragement; it was to give the history of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>
+several Indian tribes, with portraits of their chiefs, for which
+the Government was ready to furnish all the materials in its
+possession. It seems that this important publication has at
+length been carried into execution.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER III</p>
+
+<p class="center">RESIDENCE AT FREIBURG AND BETHLEHEM IN PENNSYLVANIA, FROM
+JULY 30TH TO AUGUST 23RD</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+View of the Country&mdash;Population of German Origin&mdash;Freiburg&mdash;Residence
+there&mdash;The Rocky Valley&mdash;Excursions&mdash;The Colony
+of the Moravian Brethren at Bethlehem&mdash;Residence there&mdash;Excursions.
+</p>
+
+<p>All the members of our party had now joined, and, though
+our baggage was not yet arrived from Boston, I resolved,
+in order to make myself acquainted with the interior of Pennsylvania,
+to take up my abode in the settlement of the Moravian
+Brethren at Bethlehem. I had previously paid a visit
+to the place, and found it very favourably situated for our
+object. On the 30th of June [July], before daybreak, in the
+finest weather and bright moonlight, we drove through the
+long streets of Philadelphia, and passed the churchyards,
+with their white, ghost-like monuments and tombstones. The
+day broke when we got out of the city. On both sides of the
+road were country houses, alternating with fields, enclosures,
+gardens, and parks; and high trees of various kinds were
+everywhere planted by the road-side. We passed through
+Germantown, a scattered village, and, by eight o'clock,
+arrived at Chestnut Hill, where the passengers usually breakfast.
+The inn was rather uncleanly, and the coffee so bad,
+that a portly Quaker in our company would not take this
+beverage, of which he was otherwise very fond. At table
+we were molested by innumerable European flies, though a
+servant girl took great pains to drive them away, by waving
+a large green bough over our heads.</p>
+
+<p>The whole country, as far as Bethlehem, and much farther,
+is chiefly inhabited by the descendants of German emigrants,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span>
+who all speak an indifferent low German, and say that they
+rather converse in German than in English. The appearance
+of the country in this part is not particularly pleasing.
+Fields of potatoes, clover, oats, and maize as high as a man,
+alternate with meadows and little thickets, and all the fields
+are surrounded with hedges or wooden fences. At Montgomeryville,
+the horses are changed a second time, and the
+road becomes more diversified. <span class="opage">22</span> The habitations of the
+country people are generally small, often rather poor, frequently
+composed of boards, covered with shingles; sometimes
+they are merely great block-houses, like the cowkeeper's
+cottage in Switzerland. These cottages are surrounded with
+little gardens, in which there are various kinds of European
+plants, such as the hollyhock, hibiscus, larkspur, balsam, &amp;c.
+The <i>Hibiscus Syriacus</i> was everywhere in blossom, in the
+greatest beauty. I have never seen this fine plant so high
+and vigorous, or its flowers so large and splendid, in Europe,
+as here. They are of three varieties of colour&mdash;white, purple,
+and bright pink, the latter by far the most beautiful.
+In general, the trees and shrubs in this country are very
+vigorous. The vegetative power increases the more you
+advance towards the south, and the prodigious fertility of
+the soil remains long unimpaired, even after it has been
+stripped of its primeval forests.</p>
+
+<p>The country, as we advanced, was gradually more and
+more wooded. We drove through fine young woods of
+slender oaks, walnuts and chestnuts, ash, sassafras, beech,
+tupelo (<i>Nyssa sylvatica</i>), and other tall trees, all, with the
+exception of a single spot, without any underwood or young
+trees, which is a proof that there is no intention of perpetuating
+these woods for future use. In many parts they are on the
+way to total destruction, for they contain neither timber fit
+for felling, nor young plants; and if it is thought fit in future
+to raise timber in these ruined forests, the country people
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span>
+must be checked in their love of destruction, and forest laws
+and regulations introduced. It is fortunate for Pennsylvania
+that the rich coal mines have been discovered. There was a
+very agreeable succession of woods and meadows, and we saw
+great numbers of the beautiful red-headed woodpecker,
+which, when it spreads its wings, displays a large surface as
+white as snow. It is often seen sitting on the fences where
+the ground squirrel and the reddish squirrel, with dark lateral
+stripes (<i>Sciurus Hudsonius</i>), frequently resort. The first,
+in particular, is seen in great numbers about all these fences,
+running backwards and forwards on them. The birds which
+we particularly remarked were the robin, the blue bird, the
+fox-coloured thrush, the goldfinch, the turtle-dove, &amp;c. The
+<i>Caprimulgus Virginianus</i>, which the Americans call the
+night hawk, was flying about in a meadow in bright sunshine.
+I have seen these birds everywhere, flying about in
+numbers, in the daytime, like <i>Azaras Nacunda</i> in Brazil.
+This species, too, shows, when on the wing, the white transverse
+stripes which are observed in many species in that
+country. Crows and blackbirds are common, but there are
+very few birds of prey, which are far more numerous in
+Brazil. The forests in this part of the country become more
+lofty; the crowns of the trees spread wider, and afford a
+thicker shade. Travelling by a road which runs alternately
+through corn-fields, meadows, and agreeable eminences, we
+arrived at Freiburg, a straggling village, almost wholly inhabited
+by descendants of German emigrants. We stopped
+here a couple of days, to make excursions in the forests, and
+took up our quarters in a tolerably good country miller's
+house, close to which a Jew had set up his store.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of August, conducted by my obliging neighbour,
+the German Jew, and some <span class="opage">23</span> others of the inhabitants
+of the neighbourhood, we made an excursion to the Rocky
+Valley, which was represented to us as very well worth
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span>
+seeing. We proceeded through meadows and between fences
+for about half a league, and often saw the large prairie lark
+(<i>Alauda magna</i>, Linn.; <i>Sturnella</i>, Vieill.), which usually sits
+on the ground, on the grass, or on the branch of a shrub, and,
+when scared, often lights on the pines. Its song is short, and
+not disagreeable. This handsome bird is shy of the sportsman,
+and flies away betimes, when it may immediately be
+recognized by its short, outspread tail, the side feathers of
+which are white. Our path lay past isolated farm-houses,
+most of the inhabitants of which spoke German, and we then
+reached the forest, where we shot many fine birds. We next
+passed by several lonely log or block-houses, before the doors
+of which the children, many of them very poorly and dirtily
+dressed, were at play, and seemed to be the only possession
+of the inhabitants. The sky was overcast, and it rained,
+while the weather was very warm, which obliged us to visit
+the cool draw-wells of the peasants. From this place the
+forest was more and more filled with blocks of primitive
+rocks, mixed with hornblende and quartz, and these blocks
+lay about irregularly, some of them very large, and covered
+with various kinds of lichens. In this wild wooded spot, our
+guides could not tell where they were, till a German peasant
+showed us the rather hidden path, which could hardly be
+distinguished among the many blocks of stone. The <i>Act�a
+racemosa</i>, with its long spikes of white flowers, was growing
+everywhere, four or five feet high, like the <i>Digitalis
+purpurea</i>, in the mountain forests on the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>The wood now became thicker, and fuller of brushwood.
+We reached the bed of a stream, now dry, likewise quite
+filled with blocks of stone, which we followed, leaping from
+block to block, till we came in sight of the place called the
+Rocky Valley. Here, on a gentle hill, is a free prospect
+through the forest up the stream, where prodigious masses
+of great blocks of stone were so piled up, one over another,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span>
+that a tract, from 150 to 200 paces in breadth, appears quite
+covered with them, exactly like similar heaps of stone, especially
+basalt, in Germany, some of which are found in the
+countries on the Rhine, where they are called <i>beilsteine</i>. No
+shrub or blade of grass can grow among these boulders, and
+the rain, which continued to fall, made them so slippery that
+it was dangerous to climb over them. No living creature
+was to be seen in this wilderness, nor, as I said before, was
+there any vegetation. These blocks seem to have been
+accumulated and piled up by some impetuous torrent, and
+it is said that, at the season of the year which is less hot
+and dry, the sound of water running under the stones is
+heard.</p>
+
+<p>From this place we returned to the habitation of the German
+peasant who had showed us the way, where we refreshed
+ourselves with brandy-and-water. The inmates of the house
+were, in part, engaged, sitting under the shade of the trees,
+in cutting shingles, which they sold. They were much astonished
+at our double-barrelled guns, with percussion locks
+and safety caps. There are now scarcely any wild animals
+in these forests; hardly any but the grey fox, the <span class="opage">24</span> Pennsylvania
+marmot (ground hog, or <i>wood chuck</i>), the grey and
+the red squirrel, have escaped the love of destruction of the
+invaders.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to Freiburg, I found our countryman, Dr.
+Saynisch, of Bethlehem, whom I had previously met with.
+He is a naturalist, and, being well acquainted with this part
+of the country, was able to give me much interesting information
+concerning it. He stopped a couple of days with
+us, and we set out on a shooting excursion the same afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd of August, early in the morning, we left Freiburg,
+in the most beautiful weather, and our host drove us
+in his dearborn (such is the name given to a small covered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span>
+vehicle), and two spirited horses, to Bethlehem, the road to
+which afforded us much pleasure. The country is very agreeable:
+meadows, corn-fields, habitations, and copses succeeded
+each other on the side of low hills; and the fine valley, called,
+by the inhabitants, Upper Sakena, is remarkably fertile.
+The road was here and there shaded by large trees, and a
+small pond was extremely interesting to us; for, besides
+many curious birds, we saw tortoises everywhere on the
+banks, and on old stumps in the water, which, however,
+were very shy, and plunged below the surface as soon as we
+approached them. In the sultry heat of noon, we reached
+the Moravian settlement, Bethlehem, where we put up at a
+German inn.<a name="FNanchor_34" id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+<p>This settlement is built on the top and the side of a hill,
+at the foot of which the Monocasa brook joins the Lecha
+(Lehigh). The Lecha is celebrated for its picturesque valley,
+which is at first wild and wooded, and lower down, fruitful
+and well cultivated. At present, Bethlehem is no more than
+a village, but it is rapidly increasing, and has already some
+pretty considerable streets, which, however, are still unpaved.
+The church is a large, neat, light building, quite
+in the plain style of the German churches of this sect, and
+gives the place a pretty appearance, being situated nearly at
+the top of the hill. Another large building is the girls' school,
+which has a shady garden, planted with timber trees, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span>
+lower part of which is on the Monocasa, where flowers of
+many kinds attract the little humming-birds. The lower
+part of the village, consisting of but a few houses, one of
+which is the inn where we lodged, and where there is a long
+wooden bridge over the Lecha, is situated in Lehigh county;
+and the large upper part, in the county of Northampton,
+the boundary line of the two counties passing through the
+place. Like all the settlements of the industrious brethren,
+Bethlehem has a number of different trades, mechanics and
+field-labourers. New settlers are continually arriving, and
+it will, in time, become a place of importance. The inhabitants
+are, for the most part, Germans; but there are likewise
+many English, and divine service is performed in the
+church in German and English alternately, and most of the
+inhabitants speak both languages. The country about Bethlehem
+is agreeable and diversified; the climate very healthy.
+Large woods alternate in the vicinity with the fields of the
+inhabitants, and a canal, from the coal district of Mauch
+Chunk to the Delaware, gives animation and support to the
+country by the numerous boats that navigate it. All kinds
+of <span class="opage">25</span> European field and garden plants are cultivated here,
+and likewise maize; they have even begun to plant vines;
+but what is called the Alexander grape, yields a rather acid
+beverage, which they usually sweeten with sugar. We were
+told that much better wine is produced in the country about
+Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, near York. Fruit does not
+seem to thrive so well in the United States as in Europe: the
+peach, however, may, perhaps, be excepted.</p>
+
+<p>I became acquainted with the directors of this colony:
+Mr. V. Schweinitz, well known in the literary world as a
+distinguished botanist, Mr. Anders the bishop,<a name="FNanchor_35" id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> and the Rev.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>
+Mr. Seidel. All these gentlemen received me in a very
+friendly manner, and Mr. Seidel, in particular, showed me
+much kindness. Dr. Saynisch lived in the same house with
+me, and I derived great benefit from his knowledge of the
+country. Our whole time at Bethlehem was devoted to excursions
+in the neighbouring country. Opposite the place,
+on the other side of the Lecha, is a range of mountains, or
+moderate hills, beautifully wooded, which afforded a great
+variety of pleasant walks. The mountains are covered with
+picturesque forests of oak, walnut, and other timber trees,
+under which there is, generally, a thick covert of tall <i>Rhododendron
+maximum</i>, which was still adorned with its magnificent
+large tufts of flowers. In these dark shades we soon
+learned to distinguish the notes of the different birds, among
+which was the flame-coloured Baltimore bird, which we
+recognized, at a distance, by its splendid plumage, when it
+was flying to its remarkable pendent nest, of which we saw
+several. The Lecha, the bottom of which was covered with
+naked blocks and masses of stone, is adorned by picturesque
+islands, some of them of considerable extent, to which
+we made many interesting excursions. Numerous kinds of
+aquatic plants grow in the water; and among these plants
+we saw numbers of tortoises. Mr. Bodmer made a very
+characteristic drawing of this wood and water scenery.<a name="FNanchor_36" id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>
+When we had crossed the river, we landed on the island in
+a dark, lofty, airy grove, where all the kinds of trees common
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span>
+in this country grow vigorously, and entirely exclude the
+sun's rays. The ground is clothed with many fine plants:
+the beautiful <i>Lobelia cardinalis</i>, which is common in all this
+part of the country, was in blossom on the banks, as well
+as many other plants.</p>
+
+<p>This beautiful forest was peopled by a great variety of
+birds; besides those above-mentioned, we saw, in the crowns
+of the highest trees, the bright red Tanagra, the black
+and red Baltimore bird, the humming-bird, with reddish-brown
+eyes; the greenish heron, and the ash-coloured kingfisher,
+flew up from the stones on the bank. Whenever we
+were overtaken by a shower of rain on these lovely islands,
+we took shelter in the hollow trunks of old plane trees, of
+which there is one capable of holding ten persons. In these
+cool shades we did not much feel the heat of the summer,
+but it was very oppressive in the town; at nine o'clock in the
+evening the temperature of our apartment was 18� Reaumur
+(72�� Fahrenheit), and there were frequent thunder-storms.
+At noon the temperature in the cool passages of our house
+was at 23� or 24� Reaumur (86� Fahrenheit).</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">26</span> We made frequent excursions to these charming
+islands; and Mr. Bodmer, who went thither every day to
+complete his sketch of the forests, generally came back
+laden with tortoises (<i>Emys odorata</i> and <i>picta</i>) and other
+amphibia, or fresh water shells. This <i>Emys picta</i> is one of
+the most beautiful kinds of this family in Pennsylvania:
+there is certainly no country in which tortoises are so numerous,
+and of such a variety of species, as North America.</p>
+
+<p>The banks of the Lehigh, chiefly covered with high woods,
+differ from the more open banks of the Monocasa, where
+extensive thickets of reed and reed mace (<i>Typha</i>) are the
+abode of the beautiful red-shouldered Oriole. The little
+shrub-like oak (<i>Quercus chincapin</i>) grows in abundance on
+the hills that border this stream. We made other interesting
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span>
+visits to the wooded Lecha mountains, on the north or north-east
+bank of that river, below Bethlehem. They are thickly
+covered with high timber and much underwood, and from
+their summits there is a fine prospect over the whole of the
+surrounding hilly country. The chestnut trees have been
+very much thinned in these forests, as the wood is highly
+valued, not for fuel, as it is light and porous, but for fences,
+because it is said to remain uninjured in the ground for
+sixty years.</p>
+
+<p>The splendid bright red Tanagra was not uncommon in
+these forests; but we now met with none that were quite red,
+because the old males put on, towards autumn, the plain
+olive-coloured plumage of the females. Many of these fine
+birds had still bright red spots, which showed that they were
+undergoing a change in their plumage. Only a couple of
+species of the genus Tanagra, which are so numerous in the
+Brazilian forests, are found in all North America; but the
+manner and mode of living of these animals are everywhere
+the same. They are quiet birds, not remarkable for their
+song, but make up for this deficiency by the splendour of
+their plumage. The small hare (<i>Lepus Americanus</i>) and
+the grey squirrel were almost the only quadrupeds we
+saw in these woods; but of the class of amphibia there
+were many kinds. The larger wild animals have almost
+wholly disappeared. All North America was formerly one
+interminable forest, only there were what are called prairies
+in the western parts beyond the Alleghany mountains; but
+all Pennsylvania, a state comprising 44,500 square miles,
+was a primeval forest, which was thinned in a short time by
+the numerous settlers who flocked to this country. The
+larger species of game disappeared in the same ratio; and
+in the immediate vicinity of Bethlehem there are now not
+even any deer. It was mentioned to me as a very rare occurrence,
+that a bear had been seen here two years before,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>
+and was immediately pursued, but in vain, by the hunters.
+Some small animals still live in these forests, which, however,
+are not to be found except at night; among these are the
+opossum (<i>Didelphys Virginiana</i>) and the skunk (<i>Mephitis
+Americana</i>). The first is not frequently met with in these
+parts; the latter, on the contrary, is not uncommon.</p>
+
+<p>In order to catch the skunk, our hunters went by night to
+the Lecha mountains, and searched the forest with hounds,
+and almost always attained their object. The dogs killed
+the animal by biting it, and were sometimes a little perfumed.
+It has been reported that they <span class="opage">27</span> avoid the smell; but I
+can testify that we did not meet with any confirmation whatever
+of this statement. In fact, the stories told of the offensive
+smell of this animal are rather exaggerated, for an European
+polecat is often nothing behind the skunk in this
+disagreeable quality. The hunters brought home a half-grown
+skunk alive, and we kept it in a box in the garden,
+where it was very tame and quiet, and never emitted the
+slightest smell. We opened the box, and let it run about at
+liberty. It is only when alarmed that the skunk is offensive
+to the olfactory nerves. The hollow trees in these forests
+were the abode of the pretty flying squirrel, which, however,
+is not to be seen in the daytime. The banks of the river
+are inhabited by the musk-rat, which is often seen swimming,
+and is sometimes taken in the fishing nets.</p>
+
+<p>One of our usual walks, during our stay at Bethlehem,
+was up or down the banks of the Mauch Chunk canal. This
+canal is divided from the Lecha by a dam, on which grow
+many fine plants, about which numbers of humming-birds
+were fluttering. In my whole journey through North America,
+I nowhere found these pretty birds so numerous as here.
+They hummed about the yellow flowers of the broad-leaved
+tree primrose (<i>Oenothera</i>), of the violet <i>Asclepias incarnata</i>
+(swallow wort), of the <i>Impatiens fulva</i>, with its deep orange-coloured
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span>
+flowers, &amp;c., and we shot many of these little creatures,
+among ten of which we found, at the most, one male,
+with deep red throat. The dam was bordered with stones
+at the sides; and among them were numbers of the striped
+ground squirrel. Tall thistles are the constant resort of the
+goldfinches, which picked the woolly seeds from the flower
+heads. At some mills, on an island near the road, there
+was a grove of tall trees, the dark shades of which were
+animated by many interesting birds, especially the beautiful
+Baltimore bird and the flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa ruticilla</i>),
+which is distinguished by the same colours, and is frequent
+here. Under the old stems, and from the roots of the trees
+on the bank, the great bull-frogs leaped into the water, however
+softly and cautiously we approached. Their deep,
+hollow note was not heard so much in this season, as in the
+spring and the beginning of the summer. I nowhere saw
+these frogs so numerous as here in Pennsylvania.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to these hills, on the other bank of the Lecha,
+was a wood of very tall, old trees, the airy, shady crowns of
+which were inhabited by birds of more different kinds
+than any other place in this neighbourhood. From that
+wood we always returned loaded with booty. There, too,
+we observed interesting butterflies, such as <i>Papileo turnus</i>,
+the beautiful black and blue philenor, and other species.
+The thick hedges near the houses were the resort of numerous
+cat-birds. The fishing-hawk hovered over the river,
+watching for prey, and we often saw the three-striped viper
+(<i>Coluber sirtalis</i>) glide among the grass.</p>
+
+<p>To the north and north-west of Bethlehem the woods
+consist of oaks without any underwood, the cattle having
+their pasture there. All these interesting excursions greatly
+increased our collections; and the Rev. Mr. Seidel, who had
+a good library, and a taste for the study of Nature, had the
+kindness to provide us with the necessary literary assistance.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span>
+We lived here <span class="opage">28</span> very agreeably in the society of well-informed
+men and fellow-countrymen, and our residence at
+the extremity of the place, close to the woods and fields,
+afforded us the most favourable opportunity for our researches
+and labours; and our landlord, Mr. W�hler, from
+Westphalia, did everything in his power to assist us in our
+occupations. This, in some degree, indemnified me for the
+deplorable loss of time occasioned by the delay in the arrival
+of our baggage. I should have reached the Western States
+long before, if I had not been obliged to wait for those indispensable
+articles. During our stay here, we often saw
+German emigrants arrive, almost all of whom were from
+W�rtemberg, Baden, or Rhenish Bavaria. In the most
+lamentable condition, without money, without the slightest
+knowledge of the country or the language, they were going to
+meet their precarious fate. They were generally refused
+admittance at the English inns, and then W�hler, not without
+considerable expense, took on him to forward them on their
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>We received news from Philadelphia that the cholera had
+rather abated; it had entirely spared Bethlehem and its
+vicinity. The canal colliers gave me an opportunity of sending
+my collections to New York, which I did in the beginning
+of September. The Flora of the country had then produced
+its white, yellow, or purple autumnal flowers; the golden
+rod, sunflower, Eupatorium, and some kinds of Aster were
+in blossom, and the white flowers of the <i>Clematis Virginiana</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The weather now remained very uniformly hot during the
+whole of July and August, with occasional thunder-storms;
+and if the summers in the United States are usually of this
+temperature, as we were assured, they are more equally hot,
+and for a longer time, than that season is in Germany. In
+order to make myself acquainted with Nazareth, the other
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span>
+settlement of the Moravian brethren, I drove there in company
+of the Rev. Mr. Seidel. It is ten miles from Bethlehem.
+On the road to it lies Altoona, consisting of some scattered
+habitations, and afterwards, on approaching the Monocasa,
+Hecktown. Nazareth is a pleasant place, with some unpaved
+streets, and has a gymnasium for the education of
+young clergymen. All the masters are Germans, but their
+instructions are given in the English language. The building
+seems to be old, and not very spacious. From the roof
+there is a fine, extensive prospect to the blue hills on the
+banks of the Delaware, and to the verdant, wooded banks
+of the Lecha. The gymnasium has a small cabinet of natural
+history. The church is not so large as that at Bethlehem,
+but can be easily warmed in the winter. A little beyond the
+garden, which has many shady walks, is the churchyard,
+where the flat, square tombstones, with short inscriptions,
+lie in regular rows, near to each other. The names of the
+brethren interred here show that most of them were Germans.
+There is a very fine prospect from the higher part of this
+churchyard. The greensward is here thickly covered with
+European thyme. Nazareth has about 350 inhabitants,
+and sixty youths in the gymnasium. There are in the place
+a good inn, shops of various kinds, &amp;c. Mr. Herrman,<a name="FNanchor_37" id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> the
+present director of the establishment, had the kindness to
+show us everything worthy of notice, and we had only to
+regret that we could not enjoy longer the pleasure of his
+company, as we were <span class="opage">29</span> obliged to return to Bethlehem
+in the afternoon. Mr. Gebhard, from New York, who had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span>
+surprised us by an unexpected visit, returned direct from
+Nazareth to his own residence. The view of these Pennsylvanian
+landscapes would be much more agreeable if the
+numerous wooden fences did not give them a stiff, unnatural
+character. Some idea may be formed of the number of
+these fences from the fact that, in the short distance of ten
+miles, persons going on foot, direct from Bethlehem to Nazareth,
+have to climb over twenty-five of these fences.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER IV</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY TO THE POKONO, AND THROUGH THE BLUE MOUNTAINS TO
+MAUCH CHUNK, IN THE COAL DISTRICT, FROM THE
+23RD TO THE 30TH OF AUGUST</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Easton on the Delaware&mdash;Morris Canal&mdash;View of the Blue Mountains&mdash;Delaware
+Gap&mdash;Dutotsburg&mdash;Chestnut Hill&mdash;Sach's Public
+house on the Pokono&mdash;Height of the Pokono&mdash;Long Pond&mdash;Tonkhanna
+Creek&mdash;Tobihanna Creek&mdash;Inn of the Widow Sachs&mdash;Saw-mill
+on the Tobihanna, with the Bear-trap&mdash;Stoddart's Ville
+on the Lehigh&mdash;Shade Creek&mdash;Bear Creek&mdash;Extensive View of the
+Mountains&mdash;Wilkesbarre in the Valley of Wyoming, or Susquehannah
+Valley&mdash;Falls of Solomon Creek&mdash;Hanover Township&mdash;Neskopeck
+Valley&mdash;German Settlers&mdash;Lausanne&mdash;Neskihone or Neskihoning
+Valley&mdash;Picturesque Scenery on the Lehigh&mdash;Mauch
+Chunk.</p>
+
+<p>In order to make ourselves acquainted with the interior
+of Pennsylvania, and the Alleghany mountains, which are
+the most interesting part of that state, we left Bethlehem
+early in the morning, on the 23rd of August, in a light,
+covered carriage, driven by our landlord, W�hler, who was
+well known in all this country. Dr. Saynisch and Mr. Bodmer
+accompanied me. I left my huntsman behind to look
+after our affairs at home. The country was enveloped in fog,
+as had been generally the case for some time past, till the
+sun dispelled it. We took the road to Easton, where the
+fields were partly cleared, and covered with stubble, partly
+planted with clover, maize, potatoes, and buckwheat, which
+was just in flower. The ground was gently undulating, with
+an alternation of fields, and woods of walnut and oak. This
+country belongs to the secondary limestone formation; where-ever
+the ground was broken up, limestone was seen, and in
+the woods were several limekilns, the produce of which was
+lying on the fields in large heaps, to be spread over them for
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span>
+manure. Isolated farm-houses are scattered along the road.
+They are slightly built of wood, many of them very small;
+but there are a great number of wealthy planters in this State.
+The little gardens of these houses were generally planted
+with European flowers, and on the road-side in the hedges,
+the kermes-oak and juniper abounded, and their berries
+attracted numbers of thrushes. Horses and horned cattle
+are very numerous, and the first, which are often of a very
+good breed, are left, day and night, at liberty in the meadow,
+and little trouble is taken about them. <span class="opage">31</span> The peasants
+are very bold in riding and driving, never use drags to their
+wheels, but drive down the hills full trot. In the hot and
+dry season, this country is often in want of water, and even
+the cisterns made by the farmers then become dry, so that
+the cattle must frequently be driven five or six miles to
+water. This arid tract is called by the inhabitants, in their
+German language, "das Trockene land," the dry land.</p>
+
+<p>We now saw, on our right hand, the heights on the banks
+of the Lehigh, covered with verdant forests, which we were
+again approaching. The double call of the <i>Perdix Virginiana
+et Marylandica</i>, called, by the Americans, quail or
+partridge, sounded in the clover fields; the ground squirrel
+ran along the fences; the red-headed woodpecker flew from
+tree to tree; and plants of various kinds, <i>Verbascum thapsus</i>
+(great mullein), <i>Antirrhinum linaria</i> (the common toadflax),
+<i>Phytolacea</i>, <i>Rhus typhinum</i> (Virginian sumach), <i>Eupatorium
+purpureum</i>, golden rod, &amp;c., grew by the road-side; the
+dwelling houses were surrounded with large orchards, and
+the apple trees were loaded with small yellow apples of an
+indifferent kind, and immense caterpillars' nests covered
+many of the branches. A great deal of cider is made, but the
+culture of fruit seems to be, in general, in rather a backward
+state. The cherry trees, too, were covered at this time with
+their small, bad fruit, which, as in Europe, was eagerly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span>
+sought after by numbers of birds. After travelling twelve
+miles, we arrived at Easton, a small town with a population
+of 2,000 inhabitants, the capital of Northampton county,
+situated at the conflux of the Delaware and the Lehigh. We
+alighted at the inn with many country people, and immediately
+set out to take a walk in the town, while breakfast was
+preparing. The streets of Easton cross each other at right
+angles; they are not paved, excepting a footway on the sides,
+paved with bricks; the largest of them runs with a gentle
+declivity to the Delaware. In a square in the highest part
+stands the Court-house. The buildings in the place are, in
+general, only two stories high; and the most interesting spot
+is the terrace, near the bridge over the Delaware. This
+bridge is 600 English feet long, has three arches, is quite
+closed, covered with a strong roof, and has fifteen glass
+windows on each side; it is painted yellow, and the building
+of it, like all similar undertakings in the United States, was
+a private speculation, and brings in thirty per cent., a toll
+being paid.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed this bridge, and walked down the river, till
+we came opposite to the spot, immediately below the town,
+where the Lehigh, issuing from its picturesque valley, between
+the rocky hills covered with pines and other trees, falls into
+the Delaware. Near to the former, on the same side, is the
+mouth of the Mauch Chunk canal; and on the other side of
+the Delaware begins the Morris canal, leading to New York.<a name="FNanchor_38" id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>
+A great number of men were busily employed at this spot.
+On the banks of the Delaware grew <i>Datura Tatula</i>, with its
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span>
+purple flowers, tall Virginian junipers, a verbena, and other
+plants; and the three-striped viper darted through the low
+bushes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">32</span> Returning to the inn, we loaded our guns and proceeded
+on our journey. As soon as we were out of the town,
+we went up the Delaware on the right bank, and crossed a
+bridge to Bushkill, a picturesque stream, flowing between
+lofty shady trees, on banks richly covered with a variety of
+plants. From this spot the way becomes extremely romantic
+and agreeable. It leads close by the bright mirror of the
+river, which may be full 200 paces broad, in the shade of the
+dark forest of plane, oak, tulip, walnut, chestnut, and other
+trees; and on the left hand rises the steep rocky wall, covered
+with many interesting plants, which are protected by the
+shade of the trees. The river soon becomes broader, and we
+came to isolated habitations situated in shady groves. We
+stopped at one of them to send a messenger, on horseback,
+back to Bethlehem, where the drawing materials, of which
+we had so much need, had been forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks often came so close to the bank of the river,
+that there was scarcely room for two carriages to pass each
+other: lofty forest trees afforded a welcome shade. In many
+places the rock stood out. Dr. Saynisch struck off with his
+hammer some fine pieces of saussurite (<i>Hornstone</i>), and talc,
+with mica; but a slate formation soon succeeded, and we
+were glad that we had taken good specimens of the preceding.
+Continuing our way, in the shade, by the banks of the river,
+we frequently came to other steep rocks, till the wilderness
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span>
+again gave way to human habitations, where we stopped at
+the White House to water our horses and take some refreshment.
+From this place the country was more diversified.
+The road still runs by the side of the river, which was animated
+by boats, and by numbers of ducks and geese. The
+Mudrun creek here issues in a very picturesque manner, between
+high trees, from a small side valley. A little farther
+on, we left the Delaware to ascend some pretty high hills.
+We proceeded along the side valley of Martin's creek, in
+which there are some spots of marshy meadow, where the
+splendid <i>Lobelia cardinalis</i>, which is usually found on the
+banks of all these rivers, attracted the eye by its deep red
+flowers. We then passed a naked lateral defile, where stubble,
+and clover fields, and woods, which we saw at a distance,
+reminded us of some parts of our own country. The road
+led over the heights, alternately gently ascending and descending
+till we came to the little village of Richmont, where
+we watered our horses, which suffered from the great heat,
+and ascended a considerable eminence, on which there is a
+mean looking church, called Upper Mount Bethel. We
+then proceeded through a more elevated plain, where, on the
+left hand, in a north-west direction, is a near prospect of the
+Blue Mountains, which form the first chain of the Alleghany.</p>
+
+<p>This first chain is said to be only 2,000 feet above the level
+of the sea; but it extends here further than the eye can reach,
+and is uniformly covered with verdant, primeval forests. It
+runs in the direction from north to south, and has no characteristically
+shaped peaks, or remarkable forms, so that there
+is nothing picturesque in the total effect. With the exception
+of some parts, especially the beautiful Catskill mountains,
+most of the landscapes of North America are characterized
+by this want of striking outlines, and this constitutes the
+great difference between them and <span class="opage">33</span> the views in Brazil,
+where the mountains and the outlines of the horizon are almost
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span>
+always marked by the most striking forms, as is usual
+in primitive mountains.</p>
+
+<p>In the chain before us, we remarked an opening in a northerly
+direction, where the Delaware breaks through; this
+is called the Delaware Water Gap, or the Delaware Gap.
+It is twenty-three miles from Bethlehem, and was the place
+of our destination to-day. We were now two miles from it.
+After passing the little town of Williamsburg, we saw before
+us, almost in all directions, luxuriant verdant woods, and
+eminences rising behind each other. As our horses hastened
+to the valley, the height of the mountains seemed to increase.
+At length the bright Delaware appeared before us, and we
+soon reached its banks. The river here forms the boundary
+of Warren County in New Jersey. On the opposite side we
+perceived a large glasshouse, managed by Germans, called
+Columbia Glasshouse, where many who have possessed it
+have already become bankrupts.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached this defile, we observed a water-snake
+swimming in the river, which suffered itself to be carried
+down with the stream, but disappeared as soon as we approached.
+We procured one on the following day, as they
+are not uncommon here.</p>
+
+<p>We had now reached the mountain chain, which rose bold
+and steep on both sides, and at every step became more and
+more contracted. Just before the defile, or gap, is an inn,
+behind which, at the distance of hardly a couple of hundred
+paces, runs the steep rocky wall of grauwacke and clay slate,
+here the predominant kind of rock. This high wall is
+crowned on the summit with pines, and covered at the base
+with various other trees, while the middle part is naked and
+rugged. At the foot of the mountains are luxuriant fields
+and meadows, in which the fine cattle were grazing. From
+this spot the rocky wall approaches nearer and nearer to the
+river, the banks of which, rude and desolate, are covered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span>
+with many broken trunks of trees confusedly thrown together,
+many of which were still lying in the water. This is the
+effect of the rising of the river, and the breaking-up of the
+ice in spring, which had caused more extensive damages in
+the spring of 1832 than on any former occasion within the
+memory of man. Where the banks of the river are flat and
+sandy, thickets of young planes often supply the place of
+the willows on the banks of our European rivers. The plane&mdash;called
+by the German inhabitants water maple, or water
+beech; by the Anglo-Americans, buttonwood, or sycamore&mdash;flourishes
+particularly near the water, or in low, moist situations,
+where it attains its colossal growth in perfection.
+These young planes, on the bank, were almost entirely
+stripped of their bark by the action of the water.</p>
+
+<p>The inn, Delaware Gap, is supposed to be 600 feet higher
+than Philadelphia, and the steep wall of rock behind it is
+elevated 600 or 700 feet above it. We might have stopped
+here for the night, but, as it was early, we preferred passing
+the Gap. The road now led immediately along the bank
+of the river, and then obliquely upwards on the steep wooded
+western rocky wall. The savage grandeur of the scenery
+is very striking. The forest has underwood of <span class="opage">34</span> various
+kinds, where numbers of interesting plants attracted our
+attention. Picturesque rocks, over which water trickles,
+covered with various coloured mosses, lichens, and beautiful
+ferns, stand between the trunks of the trees, and form shady
+nooks, caverns, seats; while all the forest trees of this country,
+mixed with pines, particularly the hemlock spruce fir, and
+the Weymouth pine, make a dark wilderness that inspires a
+feeling of awe.</p>
+
+<p>The valley of the Gap leaves the river just room enough
+to force its way between the steep walls of rock; and, if you
+turn and look back in this interesting ravine, you see against
+a steep-wooded height what is called the Indian ladder.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span>
+There are several islands in this part of the river, which are
+partially stripped of their wood by the action of the current,
+but some of them have pretty lofty trees on them. At the
+distance of about a mile from the narrowest part of the Gap,
+we reached a lonely house, where a man, six feet high, and
+very corpulent, came to meet us; he was of German descent,
+and his name was Dietrich. He would willingly have received
+us for the night in his small public-house, but there
+was no accommodation for our horses, and we therefore
+proceeded on our journey. In a short time we reached an
+eminence, at the turn of the rocky wall, where the solitary
+dwelling of a Frenchman, named Dutot, is built on a steep
+rock, high above the river. From this place the valley becomes
+more open, and the mountains less steep as you recede
+from the Delaware. A bad road leads over some eminences
+to a large open place in the woods, forming a hollow, where
+the poor little village, Dutotsburg, consisting of twelve or
+thirteen scattered dwellings, is situated. Here we took up
+our night's lodging in a tolerable public-house, which is also
+the post-office for the stages, and is kept by a farmer named
+Broadhead.</p>
+
+<p>We had scarcely taken a little rest, when a poor old man
+entered, who was the first person that had settled in this
+part of the country; his name was Dutot, and the village
+was called after him. He was formerly a wealthy planter
+in St. Domingo, and possessed 150 slaves; but, being obliged
+to fly during the revolution, had purchased a considerable
+piece of land here on the Delaware, and commenced building
+Dutotsburg. He had previously lost part of his property
+by the capture of ships, and his speculations here too seem
+to have failed. The property melted away, and the last
+remnant of his possessions was sold. He had built houses
+and sold them, so that he might be called the founder of the
+whole of Dutotsburg; yet, after all this, he is reduced to a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>
+state of great poverty, and his situation excites the compassion
+of travellers who pass that way.</p>
+
+<p>As the country about Delaware Gap was highly interesting
+to me, we remained here on the following day, the
+24th of August. We were early in motion, when the rising
+sun beautifully illumined the mountains. Our guide,
+W�hler, had accompanied young Broadhead on a shooting
+excursion in the woods; the rest of us went different ways,
+each with his gun, till breakfast time. Near the village, a
+small stream, the Cherry Creek, meandered through the
+thickets and meadows, where numbers of birds came to
+drink, while the report of the fowling-pieces of our sportsmen
+<span class="opage">35</span> echoed from the neighbouring wood. After
+our return, I accompanied old Dutot to see his house and
+his family. He himself had nearly forgotten his native
+language, and his family knew nothing of it. We found in
+this house a delightful view into the ravine of the Delaware
+below, and afterwards took the way to the romantic wild
+tract which we passed through on the preceding evening.
+Several plants were here pointed out to me, to the roots of
+which the inhabitants of the country ascribe great medicinal
+virtues; for instance, the snake root, perhaps <i>Aristolochia
+serpentaria</i>, which is said immediately to stanch the most
+violent bleeding of any wound; and, above all, the lion's
+heart (<i>Prenanthes rubicunda</i>), which is commended as a
+sovereign remedy against the bite of serpents. Old Dutot
+related a number of successful cures which he had performed
+with this root. This plant has a tall flower stem with
+many flowers, and large arrow-shaped leaves; its root is
+partly tuberous, partly long, pretty large, and branching,
+of a reddish yellow colour, and contains a milky juice. It
+is boiled with milk, and two table-spoonfuls are taken as
+a dose. The swelling, caused by the bite of the reptile, is
+said speedily to disappear, after chewing the root. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span>
+Delaware Indians,<a name="FNanchor_39" id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> who formerly inhabited all Pennsylvania,
+made this remedy known to an old man, from whom
+it was inherited by the family of Dutot. The latter had himself
+been among the Indians, and gave me some information
+respecting them. They, as well as the river, were called
+after an English nobleman, but they named themselves <i>Leni
+Lenape</i>, that is, the aboriginal, or chief race of mankind,
+and they called the river <i>Lenapewi-hittuck</i> (river of the
+Lenape). They are the <i>Loups</i>, or <i>Abenaquis</i> of the French,
+inhabited Pennsylvania, New Jersey, &amp;c., and were formerly
+a powerful tribe. A great part of them dwelt, subsequently,
+on the White River, in Indiana, after they had been much
+reduced by the whites; but, in 1818, they were compelled
+to sell the whole of this tract of country also, to the Government
+of the United States, and lands have been allotted to
+them beyond the Mississippi, where some half-degenerate
+remnants of them still live. They are said to have previously
+dwelt between fifty and sixty years in the territory of the
+present state of Ohio. They buried their dead in the islands
+of the Delaware, which are now partly in possession of old
+Dutot, but wholly uncultivated, and of little importance.
+It is said that human bones are still constantly met with on
+turning up the ground, and that, formerly, Indian corpses
+were found buried in an upright position, which, however,
+seems to be uncertain, and with them a quantity of arrow-heads
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>
+and axes of flint; but all these things were disregarded
+and thrown away, nor had Dutot anything remaining but a
+thin, smoothly polished stone cylinder, with which those
+Indians used to pound their maize. I was filled with
+melancholy by the reflection that, in the whole of the extensive
+state of Pennsylvania, there is not a trace remaining
+of the aboriginal population. O! land of liberty!</p>
+
+<p>Our excursion was extended to the public-house situated
+on the other side of the Delaware Gap, where we found a
+live specimen of the red fox of this country (<i>Canis fulvus</i>,
+Desm.), which we had not before met with. Loaded with
+plants, and other interesting objects, we returned to <span class="opage">36</span>
+Broadhead's house, where all the persons of our party successively
+arrived, each with something interesting. Some
+boys brought me the beautiful water-snake which we had
+seen on the preceding day. Mr. Bodmer had taken a faithful
+view of the Gap, near Dietrich's public-house.</p>
+
+<p>We left Broadhead's on the 25th of August, early in the
+morning. The place which we wished to reach on this day
+is called the Pokono, and is the most elevated point of the
+first chain of the Alleghanys or Blue Mountains. Our road
+led in a south-westerly direction, along Cherry Creek, through
+a pleasant valley diversified with meadows, thickets, and
+woods, and gradually ascending.</p>
+
+<p>As we rose higher and higher over gentle hills, we met a
+disagreeable, raw, cold wind, and reached, on the elevated
+plain, an isolated church, with a few habitations round it.
+On our asking the name of the place, a person, pretty well
+dressed, said, "he did not himself know the name of the
+place; the clergyman, a German, came, about once in a
+month, from Mount Bethel, to preach here."</p>
+
+<p>On reaching the top, we saw before us the highest ridge
+of the Blue Mountains, the summit of which, as I have said,
+is called Pokono, where an unbroken tract of dark forests
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span>
+covers the whole wilderness. We gradually advanced towards
+a more bleak and elevated region, where pines and
+firs more and more predominated. On an elevated plain we
+were surrounded, as far as the eye could reach, with woods
+or thickets of low oaks, from which numbers of slender,
+half-dried, short-branched pines (<i>Pinus rigida</i>) shot up.
+These pines originally formed the forest&mdash;the oaks, only
+the underwood; but the former have, for the most part,
+perished in the fires, with which the settlers have, in the most
+unwarrantable manner, without any necessity whatever,
+destroyed these primeval forests. On a part of the highland,
+cleared of wood, through which the road passes, we saw a
+row of new wooden houses, and at once perceived that timber
+is the source of the subsistence of the inhabitants. Boards,
+planks, shingles, everywhere lay about, and large quantities
+are exported. Shops, where most of the common necessaries
+of life were sold, had already been established in this new
+settlement.</p>
+
+<p>From this place, called Chestnut Hill, from the abundance
+of chestnut trees in the forests, the road declines a little, and
+you see, on all sides, numerous saw mills, which prepare
+for use the chief product of the country. The outside cuts
+of the pine and firs were piled up in large stacks; scarcely
+any use is made of them, and they may be bought for a
+trifle. We had to pass five or six times the windings of Pokonbochko
+Creek, the banks of which are agreeably bordered
+with thickets of alder, birch, willow-leaved spir�a, and the
+<i>Lobelia cardinalis</i>. A great number of skins of different
+animals were hung up at the house of a tanner, such as grey
+and red foxes, racoons, lynxes, &amp;c., which led us to ask
+what beasts of the chase were to be met with, and we learned
+that deer and other large animals are still numerous. Rattlesnakes
+abound in these parts; they showed us many of their
+skins stuffed, and one very large one was hung up on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>
+<span class="opage">37</span> gable end of a house. Some persons eat these dangerous
+serpents from a notion that, when dressed in a certain
+manner, they are an effectual remedy against many diseases.</p>
+
+<p>We had here a foretaste of the wild scenery of North
+America, which we might expect to find in perfection, in
+uninterrupted primeval forests on the Pokono; we, therefore,
+did not stop here, but hastened to the less inhabited,
+more elevated, and wilder region, where the mixture of firs
+in the forest already began to preponderate. We halted,
+and took our dinner at an isolated public-house, kept by
+a man of German origin, whose name is Meerwein. Forests
+surrounded the verdant meadows about the house, in
+which woodcocks were numerous. In a little excursion in
+the forest I saw splendid bushes of <i>Rhododendron maximum</i>,
+kalmia, Andromeda, <i>Rhodora canadensis</i>, <i>Ceanothus
+vaccinum</i>; and in the shade of the first, <i>Orchis ciliata</i>, with
+its beautiful orange-coloured flowers, which is found also
+nearer to Bethlehem.</p>
+
+<p>The entertainment in this solitary house was pretty good
+and reasonable; all the inmates, except one man, were Germans.
+If we had stopped for the night, they would have
+gone out for us with their guns, as deer and pheasants
+abound in the forests. Having taken the opportunity of
+forwarding our collections to Bethlehem by the stage which
+passed the house, we proceeded on our journey. From this
+place the road continues to ascend, traversing a fine thick
+wood, frequently crossing the stream. An undergrowth of
+scrub oak and chestnut is spread uniformly, and without
+interruption, over the whole country, the pines, as already
+mentioned, rising above it, most of which have suffered by
+fire; for in the dry season these woods have often been destroyed
+by extensive conflagrations, which have generally
+been caused by the negligence of the wood-cutters and
+hunters. Even now, clouds of smoke rose at a distance,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span>
+and announced a fire in this great lonely wilderness. The
+high road is here carried directly through the forest; it is,
+for the most part, laid with wood, covered with earth, which
+requires carriages with good springs.</p>
+
+<p>When you have nearly reached the most elevated part
+of this wilderness, and look back, you have a grand prospect.
+Lofty ridges rise one above another in a narrow valley,
+all covered with dark forests, and, on the right and left,
+high walls of rock close the valley. We soon reached the
+highest summit of the Pokono, or second chain of the Blue
+Mountains, which, as I have said, forms the most easterly
+of the Alleghanys.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Moser, a young botanist, had accompanied us from
+Bethlehem, and I undertook with him an excursion to a
+neighbouring lake on the top of the Pokono, while Dr. Saynisch
+prepared the birds that had been killed, and our other
+hunters went out to look for stags and woodhens.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded about half an hour along the high road,
+when we perceived the summit of the Pokono, and then turned
+to the right towards an old decayed cottage, where oxen
+were grazing among the thick bushes, and followed a scarcely
+perceptible path through the wilderness. We crossed a
+valley, with thickets and scorched pines rising above them,
+where the ground was covered with various kinds of plants.
+An old path led us half a league over an eminence; after
+which we <span class="opage">38</span> found a valley, where the lake, called Long
+Pond, is situated, surrounded by low reeds and rushes,
+among pine woods and various interesting shrubs. On the
+narrow lake we found a small boat, in which Mr. Moser
+pushed about to botanize. He procured in this manner the
+pretty blue flowering <i>Pontederia lanceolata</i>, a red flowering
+<i>utricularia</i>, <i>nymph�a</i>, &amp;c. Though this wilderness was
+perfectly lonely, we did not see any water-fowl, and, in fact,
+very little animal life, so that the botanist finds much more
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>
+employment than the zoologist. The lake is about a mile
+long, has but little open or clear water, and receives its supply
+from the Tonkhanna Brook. When Mr. Moser reached
+the bank again, he called to me that he was very near a
+rattlesnake, the rattle of which he had distinctly heard; but,
+though we looked diligently, we could not find the animal
+which we had long wished to possess, because the ground
+was so thickly overgrown with plants. One of the sons of
+Mr. Sachs, our landlord, had been lately bitten by a rattlesnake
+while fishing, and they affirmed that he was soon
+cured by tea made of the bark of the white ash, which is
+said to be an infallible antidote to the bite of serpents.</p>
+
+<p>At noon, while we were all taking some repose, we were
+suddenly alarmed. A mink, or minx (<i>Mustela vison</i>), a
+small beast of prey, resembling the European lesser otter,
+had had the boldness to attack, in broad daylight, the poultry
+that were about the house, and was shot. Our hunters had
+had no success, a single pheasant being all they had procured.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon Mr. Bodmer joined us, having been
+driven hither by Broadhead. We immediately went out to
+look in the neighbourhood of the Sand springs<a name="FNanchor_40" id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> for a bear-trap,
+with an iron plate fastened to a chain, which was
+carefully covered up and concealed. Mr. Moser, who
+thought he could find the place, led us astray, but we amused
+ourselves with the interesting vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>We made but little addition to our ornithological collections,
+scarcely anything having been killed but the whip-poor-will
+(<i>Caprimulgus Virginianus</i>), which is very numerous
+in all these forests. Day had scarcely dawned on the
+17th of August, when our whole company was in motion
+to go seven miles to the house of another Sachs (a near relation
+of our host), whose widow lived there. For about a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>
+mile the wood retains the same character, the firs then attain
+a greater height, and are closer together. The wood had
+been cleared around some houses, and <i>Phytolacea</i>, <i>Verbascum</i>,
+and <i>Rhus typhinum</i>, which occupy all the uncultivated
+spots in Pennsylvania, immediately sprang up. The small
+habitations were built entirely of wood, and generally painted
+a reddish brown. In some places we observed traces of fire:
+the low scrub oaks were scorched and black, and were putting
+forth shoots from the stumps and roots. At times we
+had an extensive view of the mountains, uniformly clothed
+with dark pine forests, everywhere high tops and ridges, and
+all around black woods. The Canadian and the Virginian
+pine were high and close together, especially in the valleys.
+The soil in this part is not very fertile, and requires to be
+well manured. All is forest and wilderness, and bears, deer,
+and other wild animals abound. <span class="opage">39</span> The Tonkhanna
+meanders picturesquely between thickets, and the <i>Lobelia
+cardinalis</i> was in blossom on its banks. Bull-frogs appeared
+here, as on the banks of the Lehigh at Bethlehem, and the
+same species of butterflies as are found there. Not far from
+this place we came to a second very romantic brook, the
+Tobihanna, over which a short, covered bridge is thrown,
+and about 300 paces further, reached the lonely habitation
+of the Widow Sachs, in a desert spot without wood, where
+we were to pass the night.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Sachs gave us tolerable quarters, and I immediately
+sent for the most expert hunters of the neighbourhood, in
+order, if possible, to procure a bear or a stag. Three or
+four men came who were ready to go for a remuneration.
+One of them had but a few days before, met with two bears
+and their young, among the bilberry bushes, and shot two
+of them. I obtained from him a fine large skin of one of
+them, and several interesting stags' horns.</p>
+
+<p>The part of the country in which we now were was so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span>
+lonely, wild, and grand, that we immediately took our fowling-pieces
+to ramble about. The Tobihanna,<a name="FNanchor_41" id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> over which is
+the above-mentioned bridge, thirty or forty paces in length,<a name="FNanchor_42" id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>
+is a pretty considerable stream, and the surrounding scenery
+is extremely picturesque. It is enclosed in rather high banks,
+overhung with fine, dark, primeval forests of Canadian pine
+trees, here called spruce fir, mixed with isolated trees of
+various kinds, and with a very close underwood of colossal
+<i>Rhododendron maximum</i>, thicker than a man's arm,<a name="FNanchor_43" id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> whose
+dense masses of foliage, with their dark green, laurel-like
+leaves hang down over the water, and are often mixed with
+the beautiful <i>Kalmia latifolia</i>. Even now, the appearance
+of this dark thicket on the bank was magnificent; how much
+more beautiful must it be when in blossom! The black
+forest of gigantic firs, crowded together, rises in awful gloom,
+here and there relieved by the light green foliage of other
+trees. These majestic pine forests have hitherto been visited
+by only a few settlers, and have escaped the great conflagrations
+which have deprived the skirts of these wooded mountains
+of part of their lofty stems. We were charmed with
+this North American wilderness, where Nature is, indeed,
+less vigorous, and poorer than in the hot climates, but still
+has a striking, though very different character of solemn
+and sublime grandeur. Mr. Bodmer immediately chose a
+place to sketch the above-mentioned beautiful brook, while
+the rest of our party strolled through the forest. Old decayed
+trees, often singularly hollowed, and roots of firs
+covered with moss, spreading over the surface in all directions,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span>
+hindered us from penetrating far into this wilderness.
+A dark, damp shade received us here in the heat of the day,
+and the three-striped viper, of which there are <span class="opage">40</span> numbers
+under the old, decayed trunks, frequently fled as we advanced.
+Rattlesnakes are said to be less common than in
+the parts which we had before visited. Birds were not numerous
+in the deep recesses of these forests; only the hammering
+of the woodpeckers resounded in the awful wilderness.
+In places where there was much underwood, very thick stems
+of <i>rhododendron</i>, often from ten to twenty feet high, formed
+an intricate, impenetrable thicket. It was now perfectly
+dark, and we found the most beautiful natural arbours.
+The <i>Kalmia latifolia</i>, too, grew to the height of eight or ten
+feet. This country was so wild and attractive that I resolved
+to stop another day. To the north-east of the solitary dwelling
+of the Widow Sachs, was a fine beech forest, among the
+underwood of which pheasants were pretty numerous. We
+procured some of them, but I could not yet succeed in obtaining
+a stag or a bear.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th of August we undertook an excursion to see
+the bear-trap, in which one of those animals had been caught
+two or three days before. The man who owned this trap
+lived on the road between Tonkhanna and the Tobihanna,
+both of which flow into the Lehigh. He had appointed his
+house for our rendezvous, where we saw the skin of the bear,
+lately taken, nailed up against the gable end to dry. The
+saw-mill of our bear-catcher lay in a rude valley, to the
+south-west of the road. We came to this saw-mill, in a solitary
+valley, on the Tonkhanna, which rushes, roaring and
+foaming over rocks covered with black moss, between old
+broken pines, in a true primeval wilderness. In this retreat
+for bears, prickly smilax, brambles, and other thorny plants,
+tear the strongest hunting dress, and leather alone resists
+these enemies. At every step we had to clamber over fallen
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span>
+trunks of trees, to the injury of our shins, which were almost
+always bleeding. We found our guide, who, though
+it poured of rain, took his rifle, and went before, to lead
+us to the bear-trap.</p>
+
+<p>The trap was in a place rather bare of thick stems, between
+young pines, and made of large logs, in such a manner
+that a young bear might be taken alive in it. It consisted
+of two round stems lying flat on the ground, between which
+two others, which are supported by a prop, are made to fit,
+and fall down when the prop is touched.<a name="FNanchor_44" id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> <i>a</i> is the base on
+which the two logs, <i>b</i>, rest; <i>c</i>, the two suspended logs, which
+fall as soon as the bear touches the bait, fixed in <i>e</i>, at the
+lower end of the rack <i>f</i>. The pole <span class="smcap">A</span>, <span class="smcap">A</span>, which is set in the
+rack <i>f</i>, rests in front on the prop <i>g</i>, and supports in <i>h</i>, by
+means of a withe, the logs <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>. When the bear touches
+the bait, the rack <i>f</i> moves, the pole <span class="smcap">A</span>, <span class="smcap">A</span>, becomes free, and
+lets the logs <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, fall, which catch or kill the animal. The
+whole is covered with green fir boughs when the trap is set,
+and all the parts must have their bark on. The bear caught
+here, some days before, was about a year old, so that there
+was room for him between the logs; and as he was not large,
+and had entered the trap in front and not from the side,
+his life was prolonged a little. He was shot in the trap, and
+his head used as a bait; we took the head away with us,
+and the owner of the trap substituted a piece of the animal's
+lungs in its stead.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo107" id="illo107"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_108.jpg" width="515" height="271" alt="Bear-trap" />
+<p class="caption">Bear-trap</p>
+<a href="images/illo_108lg.jpg">View larger image</a></div>
+
+<p>After a hasty sketch had been made of the bear-trap, we
+set out on our return; I very much regretted leaving the
+magnificent wilderness. On the way we found a fine viburnum,
+with large reddish leaves, and the <i>Oxalis acetosella</i>,
+which grew in abundance among the moss and decaying
+trunks of trees. The loud hammering of the woodpeckers
+resounded in this forest, and we shot the great spotted woodpecker
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span>
+of this country, which very much resembles our <i>Picus
+major</i>; for dinner we had bear's flesh, which we thought
+resembled mutton.</p>
+
+<p>When I returned to the house of Sachs, I found the
+hunters, whom I had hired, in no little confusion. One
+of them, in particular, after receiving his wages for the first
+day, had remained in the public-house the whole night and
+the following morning. Stretched at length on a table, he
+had slept off the effects of his drunken fit, talked big, and
+found here a willing audience, a number of drinkers of
+whisky being collected in this place. Brandy drinking is far
+more common among the lower classes in America than
+with us; and here, on the Pokono, this bad habit was peculiarly
+prevalent among the country people. Not far from
+Tobihanna Creek there was a small wooden house, ten or
+twelve feet square, with a little iron stove (see the view of
+the Tobihanna Bridge), in which a school was kept. The
+stalls for cattle, swine, and sheep, are, for the most part,
+cages, the bars of which being pretty wide apart, the cold
+winter wind blows freely through them; nay, many of them
+had half fallen to pieces. The swine, which ran about in
+great numbers, had a triangular yoke round their necks
+to hinder them from getting through the fences. In all this
+part of the country, garden vegetables are raised in beds, or
+rather boxes, filled with mould, elevated on four posts. The
+seeds are sown in these boxes, and the young plants not
+transplanted till they have acquired a certain growth,
+otherwise they would be destroyed by the insects. Maple
+sugar is not made here, because the tree does not grow in
+sufficient abundance. The <span class="opage">42</span> chief occupation of the settlers,
+in this part, is the making of shingles, which are manufactured
+from the Weymouth pine. We were assured, that
+these peasants steal the greater part of the wood for their
+shingles, in the forests belonging to greater landowners,
+<a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>
+<a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span>
+who live at a distance, and have no keepers to protect their
+property. One workman can make in a day 300 or 400
+shingles, which are sold on the spot for half-a-dollar per 100.
+They are sent to all the neighbouring country, in large wagons
+drawn by four horses. At Bethlehem, forty-two miles from
+Pokono, the best shingles were sold, at that time, for eleven
+dollars per 1,000. These shingles are of two kinds; the
+German, made by Germans, who first manufactured them
+in this way, which are considered to be the best, and the
+English; the former are equally thick at both edges, the
+latter thicker at one side than the other. Many persons,
+whose horses are not otherwise employed, come here and
+fetch shingles.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th of August we continued our journey through
+forests that extended, without interruption, on all sides.
+After crossing a bridge over the little brook called Two-miles-run,
+we came to an open spot in the forest, where the great
+village of Stoddartsville is built on the Lehigh, which at
+this place is still an inconsiderable stream. The environs
+of the place are still wild. Stumps of trees, cut or sawed
+off two or three feet from the ground, were everywhere seen,
+and this newly-cleared spot was still covered with wild plants.
+As you come down the hill, you look directly into the street
+of the place, to which some neat and pretty houses give a
+very striking effect in this wilderness. We continued our
+journey over wooded eminences, where bears and stags are
+said to be still numerous. Having passed Bear Creek and
+Ten-miles-run Creek, we soon reached the Pokono, or highest
+summit of the Blue Mountains, and began gradually to
+descend. In the forests through which we now passed,
+the firs began to give way to other timber trees, and the
+woods are again more burnt and ruined, frequently consisting
+only of shoots from the stumps of oaks, chestnuts, maples,
+and sassafras trees, with single pines everywhere rising above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span>
+them, as the palms in Brazil do, above the lower <i>Dicotyledones</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On one of the next eminences, we came to another lofty
+point, whence we had the most extensive view, backwards
+and forwards, that we had yet enjoyed in these mountains.
+Towards the north-west lies the beautiful valley of Wyoming,
+through which the Susquehannah flows; and backwards, in
+the opposite direction, a rude prospect of wood and mountain,
+where peak rises above peak, and the eye ranges over
+an uninterrupted extent of immense forests. It is said to
+have been ascertained, by actual measurement, that this
+spot is 1,050 feet above the level of the Atlantic. Unfortunately,
+our time would not allow us to take a drawing of
+this grand prospect. From this place we began to descend
+into the valley of the Susquehannah, where the woods assume
+a more cheerful character, the firs being soon entirely succeeded
+by the oak, chestnut, and other timber trees. The
+road resembles an avenue, overshadowed by lofty oaks, tulip,
+chestnut, walnut, beech, hornbeam, birch, maple, elm, nyssa,
+and other trees, growing very close <span class="opage">43</span> together. Here we
+already see the formation of the conglomerate&mdash;the precursor
+of the coal district, which we now enter. When we
+had descended rather more than half way down the declivity
+of the mountain, we were taken about 200 paces to the
+right of the road, to be surprised by the beautiful prospect
+of the valley of Wyoming, or the Susquehannah. A group
+of rocks of conglomerate rises, isolated in the forest, and,
+on ascending it, you have a magnificent view. The broad
+and extensive valley, covered with towns and detached
+houses, alternates agreeably with forests and fields; the river
+flows through its whole length, and at our feet lay the pretty
+town of Wilkesbarre, the streets of which we could overlook.
+It is manifest, at a glance, that the whole of the valley was
+formerly covered with a thick primeval forest, for strips of
+wood everywhere traverse the fields.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Proceeding on our journey we came to a solitary public-house,
+where we met with a rattlesnake. I bought it, and
+it was put into brandy, as a live creature of this kind is not
+the most agreeable travelling companion. This snake had
+been kept three weeks in a box, and had not taken any
+nourishment whatever, so that it moved its rattle but faintly
+when it was irritated. As it was a very large and handsome
+specimen, I paid two dollars and a half for it. The landlady,
+a very corpulent personage, was in a very light morning
+dress when she concluded the bargain with me, and not
+being able to give me change, she immediately threw on
+her Sunday clothes, to follow our carriage on foot, and settle
+the account at Wilkesbarre. Her head was adorned with a
+large fashionable straw hat; she had a silk gown, and a silk
+parasol, which she might very well have spared, protected
+her tanned face from the sun. It was remarkable that,
+heavy as she was, she reached the town as soon as we did,
+though we had half a league to go. Wilkesbarre, in Lucerne
+county, is a place with about 1,200 inhabitants, with three
+churches, a court-house, a bank, &amp;c.<a name="FNanchor_45" id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> The streets are pretty
+regular, and the buildings separated by gardens and intermediate
+spaces. The place has its singular name from the first
+settlers, who were called Wilkes and Barre. The population
+consists of handicraftsmen, field labourers, storekeepers,
+and merchants; and several of the inhabitants are interested
+in the important coal mines, situated to the west of the
+road which we had taken. This bed of coals is said to extend
+fourteen miles along the slope of the valley of the Susquehannah,
+and then to continue over other eminences, of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span>
+which there will be occasion to speak in the sequel. For
+the purpose of conveying the coals by water, a canal has been
+dug, which was not quite completed, and which is to form
+a communication between the coal mines and the Susquehannah.
+On the other side of the river the great Pennsylvania
+canal is already finished, which connects Pennsylvania
+with Maryland by means of the Susquehannah.<a name="FNanchor_46" id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> This last
+canal, which is divided into several parts, will be continued
+to Baltimore, the chief seaport, but it is not yet quite completed.
+Pennsylvania is already intersected by numerous
+canals, which connect the rivers, and are of the highest
+importance by the facilities they afford to inland trade.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">44</span> The inn at which we put up at Wilkesbarre was kept
+by a German, named Christ, who recommended to our notice
+some interesting points in the environs; and we, therefore,
+did not take the usual road at the bottom of the valley, but
+soon turned aside from the Susquehannah, into a wild, lateral
+valley, in which there are fine waterfalls. At less than a
+league from Wilkesbarre, we reached, at the foot of the mountain,
+a wild, thickly-wooded ravine, where we soon heard
+the roaring of Solomon Creek. Near a mill, the owner of
+which is General Ross,<a name="FNanchor_47" id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> this stream forms some highly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>
+picturesque cascades over smooth, perpendicular black rocks,
+covered with moss, forming a basin below, in a thick forest
+of pine and other timber. There are two cascades, one
+above the other, of which the second is the largest; then
+comes the last and highest, where the water, conducted from
+the mill directly across the ravine, falls perpendicularly,
+about the height of a house, over a steep rock. It was, unfortunately,
+too late, when we arrived, to make a drawing
+of this interesting scene. We asked for accommodation for
+the night in the mill, which is a roomy house; but our countryman
+(this man's mother was born in Germany) could
+not, or would not, receive us. They gave us some of the
+water of the stream to drink, which had a strong taste of
+iron and sulphur. As it was not possible to find a lodging
+in the neighbourhood, we were advised to proceed three
+miles to the top of the mountain, which we, indeed, accomplished,
+but had nearly had reason to repent of our
+resolution.</p>
+
+<p>The road ascends on the left rocky bank of Solomon Creek,
+in a thick forest, over rough ground, so that we constantly
+had the steep precipice on the right hand. There was no
+room for two carriages to pass; luckily, carriages are rare in
+this remote wilderness. As we had been told that there was
+abundance of wild animals, we loaded our fowling-pieces
+with ball. We now turned to ascend in a wooded defile,
+where a couple of solitary miserable dwellings, built of trunks
+of trees, scarcely left room for a small field or a little garden
+overgrown with weeds. While the road became more and
+more rude, and obstructed by the vegetation, twilight set in,
+and it was only with the greatest efforts that our horses could
+draw the carriages among rocks and fallen trunks of trees,
+and nothing but the greatest care prevented them from being
+overturned. We met several peasants, with their axes and
+guns, returning from their work in the woods: they were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span>
+robust, savage-looking, powerful men, whose sudden appearance
+in such a lonely spot might elsewhere have excited suspicion.
+There are no robbers in these parts; at least, I
+never heard of any, but it must be owned that the place is
+extremely well suited to them. The beautiful cardinal flower
+(<i>Lobelia cardinalis</i>) grew in such abundance in the swampy
+parts of the wood, as to form a fine red carpet. The <i>Chelone
+obliqua</i>, with its white flowers, was likewise very common.</p>
+
+<p>At length the moon rose bright and clear to relieve us from
+our unpleasant situation, and cheered by her friendly beams
+the gloomy path of the wanderer. When we reached the
+summit the road divided into two branches, of which we
+were so lucky as to choose the right one. At <span class="opage">45</span> length,
+about nine in the evening, we had the pleasure of seeing a
+light; and a lonely house, in an open spot, lay before us. On
+our knocking, the door was slowly opened. We entered a
+poor hut, where two women&mdash;one an elderly person, the
+other younger&mdash;were sitting by the fireside. The master of
+the house, whose name was Wright, was not at home. The
+two women were very tall, and were smoking, quite at their
+ease, small clay pipes. They were not a little surprised at
+so late a visit, but soon stirred up the fire, and set on water.
+Our frugal supper, consisting of coffee and potatoes, was
+soon finished, and we lay down in our clothes on tolerable
+beds, placed in a large unfurnished room, which in this
+country are almost always made for two persons. This house
+belongs to Hanover township; the settlement itself had not
+yet any name. Only English was spoken here. Not far
+from the house the Wapalpi Creek ran through the thickets
+towards the ravine.</p>
+
+<p>The night was soon passed, and at six in the morning we
+proceeded on our journey. In order to take a view of the
+Falls of Solomon Creek, Mr. Bodmer left us, and returned
+to the mill, with the intention of joining us again at Bethlehem,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span>
+by taking another road. John Wright, brother to
+our host, lived three miles off, in a little rude valley, where
+we intended to breakfast. Some men, who were going to
+hay-making, with their guns and dogs, met us. The inhabitants
+of these woods generally take their guns when they go
+to their work, as they frequently have opportunities of killing
+some large game. They have powerful dogs, resembling
+our German bloodhounds, brown or black, with red marks;
+or striped like the wolf, and sometimes, but seldom, their
+ears are cropped. These dogs are used in chasing the bear
+or the stag.</p>
+
+<p>In a romantic wooded valley we reached the solitary dwelling
+of John Wright, where we halted. The mistress of the
+house, who, with a little boy, was alone at home, gave us a
+very friendly reception, and prepared us a breakfast with
+coffee; all very clean and good for this retired spot. In the
+course of conversation we learned that she was of German
+descent, and born at Tomaqua.<a name="FNanchor_48" id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> She lived here in a
+pretty roomy log-house, with a chimney and iron stove; yet
+she said that in winter it was often very cold in the room,
+the walls of which were, indeed, not quite air-tight. In many
+rooms in these mountains we found two iron stoves. Leaving
+these scattered dwellings of Hanover township, we
+reached, in five hours, the Nescopeck Valley, eleven miles
+from our last night's quarters, the road to which is bad, little
+frequented, and in part stony, gently ascending and descending,
+and passing through ruined forests, such as have already
+been described. In some places the wood is thicker, in others
+the sides of the mountains had been quite cleared, and were
+covered with young shoots and some higher trees; small
+streams, here called runs, flow in the defiles and valleys; the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span>
+bridges of beams over which were, for the most part, so
+rotten, <span class="opage">46</span> and in such bad condition, that horses and carriages
+could not pass without danger. We saw no human
+beings or dwellings on this road, nor any animals except
+some small birds and frogs. After this rather monotonous
+journey, we were glad to descend into the Nescopeck Valley,
+and reached it, at the mill of one Bug, of German descent,
+where we refreshed ourselves with milk and brandy. The
+Nescopeck Creek, a pretty considerable stream, which turns
+several mills, flows through this beautiful wooded valley.
+This district belongs to Sugarloaf township, in Lucerne
+county.</p>
+
+<p>After we had watered our horses, and the miller had questioned
+us about his native Germany, we crossed the bridge
+over the stream, ascended the mountain on the other side,
+and reached an inn on the summit, from which it is eighteen
+miles to Wilkesbarre. Proceeding from this place, we crossed
+the valley of the little Nescopeck Creek, which is covered
+with lofty trees, then passed the little Black Creek, and afterwards
+came to a high mountain wall, with a beautiful wood
+of various forest trees, which the inhabitants, who are mostly
+of German origin, call the Bocksberg. German is everywhere
+spoken here.</p>
+
+<p>From the mill, the way leads through a thick underwood
+of shrub-like oaks, with a few higher trees, and we soon
+reached the high road from Berwick, in the Susquehannah
+Valley, along which we proceeded to Mauch Chunk, where
+two stage-coaches pass daily.</p>
+
+<p>We took this road, and soon came to an inn, kept by a
+German named Anders, who likewise had a saw-mill. The
+host had, a short time before, caught an old she-bear in a
+trap, and in the three following days her three cubs, which
+he sold to travellers passing that way. The point where we
+now were is called the Hasel Swamp; and, proceeding
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span>
+onwards, we passed Pismire Hill, where rattlesnakes are
+said to abound. We observed, too late, a very large animal
+of this kind dead in the road, one of the wheels of our carriage
+having crushed the head of the snake, which was otherwise
+in a good state of preservation. My driver laid it in a natural
+position by the road-side, and I have no doubt that it was
+again knocked on the head by some other traveller. The
+marshy tract through which the Beaver Creek flows, is called
+Beaver Meadow, and is covered with willow bushes. It is
+probable that beavers may have formerly been numerous
+here, at least the place is quite suited to them; but those
+harmless animals have been long since extirpated. We came
+next to a considerable eminence, called Spring Mountain,
+which we ascended, and then rapidly descended, always
+through a thick forest, where we observed, on both sides of
+the way, the Grauwacke formation. On reaching the bottom
+of Spring Mountain we entered a wide valley, both the steep
+sides and bottom of which are covered with thick woods, only
+thinned a little round the habitations. In the middle of the
+valley, directly before us, six or seven buildings, in a broad
+street, formed the village of Lausanne, five or six hundred
+paces below which the Quackack Brook flows through the
+valley. A Jew keeps here a public-house and shop, where
+we met likewise with newspapers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">47</span> Beyond Lausanne is a high mountain, called Broad
+Mountain, up which the road is carried in an oblique direction.
+Trees and shrubs form everywhere a very thick but
+ruined forest, in which there is scarcely any serviceable
+timber. The view back over the extensive and wild valley
+of Lausanne was extremely interesting. One can hardly
+fancy this sublime and rude country without its aboriginal
+red inhabitants. The wide and hollow valley is everywhere
+covered with dense forests; and the little village of
+Lausanne is scarcely to be seen amidst the dark green foliage.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>
+On the Broad Mountain we find again the same
+formation of conglomerate, which I have before mentioned;
+the beds of coal are at a small distance. On the side
+which we descended the wood is more beautiful, the trees
+taller than on the edge of the mountain; oaks, chestnuts,
+and other trees, were very vigorous and luxuriant. Several
+planters have formed detached settlements here, among
+whom an Irishman was pointed out to us, who had lately
+been arrested on an accusation of murder, but had been since
+set at liberty.</p>
+
+<p>The Neskihone or Neskihoning Valley, into which we now
+descended, is wide, and enclosed by very high, far-extending
+walls of rock, everywhere covered with thick woods, in which
+some small cultivated patches are here and there seen. Along
+the right, or southern wall, an iron railroad has been laid
+down, which forms a communication between one of the
+coal mines of the Mauch Chunk Company, on the Rumrun
+Creek, and Mauch Chunk. It runs down into the valley of
+the Lehigh, which it follows to the last-named place. The
+appearance of the valley is very wild and picturesque; the
+Neskihone, which you pass at a saw-mill, flows at the bottom
+of it, and then turns to the left into the beautiful valley of
+the Lehigh, into which the Neskihone empties itself. The
+Lehigh comes on the left hand, out of a deep, extremely wild
+mountain valley, or dark glen, the entrance to which is entirely
+concealed by lofty, steep wooded mountains. Its
+glassy surface shines, half hid by tall shady oaks, beeches,
+and chestnuts; and the whole is one of the most interesting
+scenes that I met with in Pennsylvania. The road from this
+place to the Lehigh Valley is agreeably shaded by high trees,
+and on the banks of the river there are several dwelling-houses
+and inns. In a quarter of an hour we reached Mauch
+Chunk, now celebrated as the central point of the Lehigh
+coal district.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER V</p>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF MAUCH CHUNK AND ITS COAL MINES&mdash;JOURNEY
+THROUGH THE LEHIGH VALLEY TO BETHLEHEM, AND LAST
+RESIDENCE IN THAT TOWN, FROM AUGUST 31ST TO
+SEPTEMBER 16TH</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Mauch Chunk&mdash;The Coal Mines&mdash;Lehighton&mdash;Mahoning Creek
+and Valley&mdash;Gnadenh�tten, a destroyed Colony of the Moravian
+Brethren&mdash;Weissport&mdash;Lehigh Gap&mdash;The Devil's Pulpit&mdash;Berlin&mdash;Crytersville&mdash;Howard
+Town&mdash;Schoner's Town&mdash;Last Residence
+in Bethlehem.</p>
+
+<p>Mauch Chunk is a village of about 200 houses, in the
+deep and narrow Lehigh Valley. The houses form almost
+one row only, and a small street in the lateral valley of the
+Mauch Chunk stream. This place has sprung up since the
+discovery of the very rich coal mines in the vicinity. The
+Lehigh Company employs from 800 to 1000 workmen, and
+supplies the whole surrounding country with the very fine
+coals obtained here. Several iron railroads, leading to the
+works, have already been made, canals dug to export the
+coals in numerous barges, great works erected, a large and
+capital inn established in the valley of the Lehigh, and mills
+of various kinds built; and travellers ought by no means to
+neglect this highly interesting spot. This deep and wild
+valley, which is enclosed on every side by wooded mountains
+from 800 to 1000 feet high, has become, within a few years,
+a scene of action and profitable industry, which will soon
+render this spot one of the most remarkable in Pennsylvania.
+The principal work, to which an iron railroad has been
+made, lies on a considerable eminence, nine miles from
+Mauch Chunk. On the 31st of August, we visited this interesting
+spot.</p>
+
+<p>As the railroad runs up along the declivity, it has been
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span>
+necessary to cut it obliquely; it is, therefore, narrow, with only
+one line; and places, at certain intervals, to allow two carriages
+to pass. For the convenience of travellers who wish
+to see the works, a stage-coach has been established, which
+is drawn up by two horses. Our company assembled at the
+inn, and ascended, by a steep path, from the town, to the iron
+railroad, which runs a little above the village. The <span class="opage">49</span> railroad
+stages are light carriages, with four low wheels, and
+seats for eight persons; they are covered at top, and open
+at the sides. The wheels are of iron, and have a groove,
+which fits into the rail, and runs upon it. The driver sits
+in front, and has a long tin horn, which he blows, to announce
+his approach to such as may be coming in the opposite direction;
+in the other hand he holds, in the descent, the machine
+with which the carriage is stopped when necessary. This
+contrivance consists of a pole, at the lower end of which there
+is a stuffed leather cushion, which, by moving the pole, is
+brought close to the wheels, and by its friction checks the
+rapidity of the motion. As a train of coal-wagons was expected,
+we slackened our pace. The two stages were fastened
+together, and though both were quite full of passengers, a
+couple of horses drew them up with great ease. We had
+not proceeded far, when we heard the rolling of a train of
+coal-wagons. It was interesting to see the black train advance,
+and dart by us with the rapidity of an arrow. These
+are built of strong beams and planks; each contains two
+tons of coals, and forty-five wagons go at the same time,
+which carry 90 tons; they run five times a day, thus 450 tons,
+or 25,200 bushels, are brought down to Mauch Chunk daily.
+Every fifteen wagons are fastened together by strong iron
+bands, and in the middle of this train is a man who holds a
+chain in his hand, by means of which he can check the
+rapidity of the motion, or even stop it entirely. Four or
+five hundred paces behind the first column comes the second,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span>
+and then, at an equal distance, the third, and after these,
+seven wagons, in each of which there are four mules, with
+provender, and a bridge for them to get in and out. Their
+heads are turned to the front, and they eat quietly, as they
+descend. These mules are to draw up the empty coal
+wagons.</p>
+
+<p>It was interesting to see the thundering column approach
+us, and then hasten by. As soon as it had passed, our horses
+trotted up the mountain, which could not be attempted, except
+on an iron railroad. The road runs along the rocky
+wall, always through a forest, where single settlers have here
+and there built their little wooden dwellings. Cattle were
+feeding in the neighbourhood, whose bells we heard in the
+woods. The valley at our left hand was very wild and romantic.
+Both the high mountain and the valley below, in
+which the Mauch Chunk flows, are clothed with a forest of
+fir and other timber, and wild vines twine about the bushes
+by the road-side. The number of miles is marked on white
+boards nailed to the trees. When we reached the top we
+came to an inn, which had a small park with Virginian deer.
+The fawns of these deer were still spotted a little at the end
+of August.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as our company had rested a little, and taken
+some refreshment, as it was very hot, we got again into our
+carriage, and proceeded, this time without horses, to the
+coal mines, about ten minutes from our inn, to which the
+railroad declines a little. You reach these interesting works
+by a deep section of the upper stratum of sandstone, and
+then enter the pits, which may be 300 paces long, 150
+wide, and 30 feet deep; quite open at top, having been gradually
+sunk to that depth. 112 men were at work in and
+about these mines, and 130 mules were employed <span class="opage">50</span> in
+conveying the coals, which stand out, shining, and with a
+beautiful play of colours; in some places they are of better
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span>
+quality than in others. They are detached partly with iron
+crows, partly by gunpowder, broken into pieces with pickaxes,
+and loaded in the wagons. From one part of the mine
+to another there are little railroads, on which boxes with four
+wheels run like what is called the dog (<i>hund</i>), in our German
+mines, in which refuse and rubbish are removed. In this
+manner high heaps of rubbish have arisen about the pits,
+which extend further and further into the valley. In some
+parts of the works there are impressions of antediluvian
+plants, of which we found some interesting specimens. The
+labour of seeking, in a stooping attitude, was particularly
+disagreeable on this day, which was hotter than any that
+preceded it. When we returned from the works to our inn,
+the thermometer, at twelve o'clock, and in the house, was
+at 96�; to which we must add that the mine is 1,460 feet
+above the level of the sea. There was not a breath of air
+stirring, and everybody found the heat extremely oppressive.</p>
+
+<p>To return to Mauch Chunk we again got into our carriage,
+but had now no need of horses; the driver shoved the carriage
+a few steps, leaped into his seat, and we immediately
+proceeded faster than a horse could gallop. We had travelled
+the greater part of the way in seventeen minutes, when
+we were obliged to halt, in order to let a train of wagons,
+returning, pass us, which detained us about twenty minutes;
+we then proceeded with the rapidity of an arrow, and travelled
+the whole distance of eight miles in thirty-two minutes.
+When we had reached the bottom we hastened to see the
+place where the wagons are unloaded.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the iron railroad is a building on the eminence,
+in which there is a large windlass, with an endless
+rope, which with one part lowers a loaded coal wagon, on
+an obliquely inclined iron railroad, down the mountain,
+while the other part draws up an empty wagon from below.
+The distance from the windlass to the place on the iron
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span>
+railway, where the wagons deposit the coals in a large shed,
+is above 700 feet.<a name="FNanchor_49" id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> The mechanism of all these works is
+well worth seeing, and the whole establishment extremely
+interesting. Mr. White, one of the principal members of
+the Lehigh Company, is a man of much and varied knowledge,
+and particularly well acquainted with machinery.<a name="FNanchor_50" id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> He
+has erected a saw-mill on the Lehigh, the construction of
+which is very ingenious. A single workman is able to saw
+4,000 square feet of deal in twelve hours. The Company
+requires six such saw-mills in the Mauch Chunk, to saw
+the wood that it wants, because the coal barges are sent
+down the canal and the Delaware, and sold at Philadelphia
+as planks.</p>
+
+<p>The road from Mauch Chunk through the Lehigh Valley,
+which we took, on the 31st of August, in the evening, is
+agreeable and diversified. A violent thunder-storm had
+passed over the valley, and had poured down torrents of rain,
+the traces of which were everywhere visible. We proceeded
+along the right bank of the river, in a rather sandy road,
+shaded by old trees. On <span class="opage">51</span> our right hand we had at first
+the steep wooded mountain, where <i>Rubus odoratus</i> and other
+beautiful plants grew amongst rude rocks. The mountains
+then recede, and fields, meadows, and detached dwellings,
+succeed.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We came to Lehighton, where the sign of the inn was conspicuous
+afar off.<a name="FNanchor_51" id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> Lehighton is situated at no great distance
+from the opening of the Mahoning Valley, from which
+the Mahoning stream flows. This valley is wooded, has
+many settlements, and is well known from the destruction of
+Gnadenh�tten, a small establishment, founded there by the
+Moravian Brethren. Some Delaware Indians, instigated,
+it is said, by neighbouring colonists, who were hostile to
+the Brethren, attacked the settlement, which they burnt,
+and killed eleven persons. Only four of the fifteen who
+composed the little colony escaped.<a name="FNanchor_52" id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> Mr. Bodmer, who
+followed us from Wilkesbarre, visited the spot. He found
+among the bushes the tomb-stone which covers the remains of
+the victims, and made a drawing of it. The following is
+the inscription:&mdash;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">
+TO THE MEMORY<br />
+OF<br />
+GOTTLIEB AND CHRISTINA ANDERS,<br />
+WITH THEIR CHILD JOHANNA;<br />
+MARTIN AND SUSANNAH NITSCHMANN;<br />
+ANN CATHARINE SENSEMANN;<br />
+LEONHARD GATTERMEYER;<br />
+CHRISTIAN FABRICIUS, CLERK;<br />
+GEORGE SCHWEIGERT;<br />
+JOHN FREDERIC LESLY; AND<br />
+MARTIN PRESSER;<br />
+WHO LIVED HERE AT GNADENH�TTEN, UNTO THE LORD,<br />
+AND LOST THEIR LIVES IN A SURPRISE FROM<br />
+INDIAN WARRIORS,<br />
+NOVEMBER 24TH, 1755.<br />
+"<i>Precious in the sight of the Lord is the death of his Saints.</i>"<br />
+PSALM CXVI. 15.<br />
+<span class="left30">1788, AND. W. BOVER, PHILADELPHIA.</span></p>
+
+<p>On the lands at Gnadenh�tten, which still belong to the
+Brethren, several farmers reside, among whom there is a
+singular female of no ordinary education, and, as it is said,
+of high rank, <span class="opage">52</span> whose real name is not known. She is
+said to have come from Germany, it is supposed from the
+principality of Lippe. Her sole employment is agriculture;
+she performs all manual labour herself, milks her cows, to
+which she has given names, and which she has tamed. She
+has rented a piece of land from the Brethren, which Mr.
+Von Schweinitz, as director of the council, let to her.</p>
+
+<p>Near the issue of the Mahoning, or Mahony Valley, a
+wooden bridge has been built, in a picturesque situation,
+over the Lehigh. It is surrounded on all sides by fine lofty
+trees, and on the right hand the wooded eminences of the
+Mahony Valley overlook it. From this place we came to
+a level, open part of the valley, where a few scattered dwellings
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>
+bear the name of Weissport.<a name="FNanchor_53" id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> A man named Weiss
+proposed to build a town here, and had collected the names
+of many subscribers, but the town consists, at present, of
+only four detached houses.</p>
+
+<p>Night set in, and the moon showed us, in the Blue Mountains
+before us, a deep cleft, called the Lehigh, or Lecha Gap,
+where that river passes through the mountain chain. At
+the Gap we halted at an isolated, but very good inn, kept
+by a man named Craig, son of the General of that name.
+He spoke both English and German, and we were very well
+accommodated in his house.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of September we visited the Lehigh Gap, the
+mountains on the north side of which are low, rocky, and
+wooded. A projecting portion is called the Devil's Rock.
+Near the buildings there are great heaps of limestone thrown
+up, which is obtained from a mountain in the Mahony
+Valley. The lime is of bad quality, but serves very well
+for mortar. It contains a number of small bivalve shells.
+About eight o'clock we left the Lehigh Gap, and took the
+road to Bethlehem, where we arrived at noon, having passed
+through Berlin, Cryterville, Howard Town, and Schoner's
+Town.</p>
+
+<p>Our baggage, which we had so long expected from Boston,
+arrived at length on the 4th of September, and as Mr. Bodmer
+rejoined us on the 10th, I should have thought of proceeding
+on our journey, did not the traveller often depend
+on accidents, which render it impossible to fix anything for
+certain. Mr. Bodmer, desiring to finish a drawing that he
+had begun, undertook a second visit to the Delaware Gap,
+and on this occasion was severely wounded by the bursting
+of his fowling-piece, which compelled us again to defer our
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span>
+departure. On our hunting excursions, we now saw the
+country in its autumnal dress. Night frosts had already
+set in, and the mornings were foggy, till the sun had risen
+pretty high, when a hot day followed. Most of the birds
+of passage were gone; no swallows were to be seen, and the
+wild pigeons passed by in large flocks. On a walk to Allentown,<a name="FNanchor_54" id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>
+the capital of Lehigh County, which has 1,700
+inhabitants, three churches, and a court-house, six miles
+from Bethlehem, we found, in the Lehigh Valley, several
+flocks of birds ready to depart. The blue birds (<i>Sylvia
+sialis</i>) were assembled, twenty together. The yellow woodpecker
+and the nuthatch were hovering about the gardens
+and fields, where <span class="opage">53</span> numbers were collected together. The
+plants that were in blossom in the fields and hedges were
+chiefly of the class <i>Syngenesia</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The accounts of the progress of the cholera, which we
+daily received, were not favourable. In New York and
+Philadelphia, and more especially at Baltimore, the disorder
+was extremely dangerous; it had also spread in the country
+about the great lakes, and on Hudson's River, and had
+extended from Detroit to the Mississippi and Ohio. It
+seemed impossible to avoid it; I therefore chose the route
+down the Ohio, intending to make the Mississippi, in the
+following spring, the basis of our excursions into the Western
+wilds or the Indian country. We took leave of our friends at
+Bethlehem, and set out in the first instance for Pittsburg.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER VI</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY FROM BETHLEHEM TO PITTSBURG, OVER THE ALLEGHANYS,
+FROM SEPTEMBER 17TH TO OCTOBER 7TH</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Allentown&mdash;Reading&mdash;Lebanon&mdash;Harrisburg&mdash;Mexico&mdash;Mifflin
+Town&mdash;Valley of the Juniata&mdash;Huntington&mdash;Alexandria&mdash;Yellow
+Springs&mdash;The Summit&mdash;Ebensburg&mdash;Hunting parties&mdash;Wild
+Scenery of the Alleghanys&mdash;Laurel Hills&mdash;Conomaugh Valley&mdash;Blairsville&mdash;New
+Alexandria on the Loyalhanna&mdash;Pittsburg&mdash;Situation
+of the Town&mdash;Economy, Mr. Rapp's Settlement on the
+Ohio&mdash;Remarkable natural productions of that river.</p>
+
+<p>Violent thunder-storms, accompanied with heavy rains,
+had taken place during the night before I left Bethlehem,
+early in the morning of the 17th, with the stage from Easton
+to Reading. Mr. Bodmer remained behind for some days,
+on account of the injury done to his hand. At day-break
+we reached Allentown, where we changed both carriage and
+horses, and passed the Cedar Creek, which was much swollen.
+The thunder-storm had not changed the temperature of the
+air. All this country was covered with plantations of maize,
+clover, and buckwheat, and detached farm-houses were
+numerous. The clover was often sown, as among us, with
+the corn. The ears of the maize were partly cut off, and
+the stalks tied up in bundles. The maize becomes ripe here
+in October. We halted very often at the post-houses, where
+the horses are always watered. As soon as the stage arrives,
+the large leather bag containing the letters is thrown down,
+and the correspondence for places further on the road is
+put in. We were here on a calcareous soil, and many limekilns
+were burning in the neighbourhood. Flocks of birds,
+of many kinds, appeared ready to depart; <i>Papilio plexippus</i>
+flew about the hedges. The <i>Datura</i>, with purple blossoms,
+and the <i>Phytolacea</i>, with ripe black berries, dark red stems
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span>
+and branches, grow on the road-side, and about the houses.<a name="FNanchor_55" id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>
+The leaves of the sumach, and of some kinds of oak and
+maple, had already <span class="opage">55</span> changed to a beautiful red colour.
+The fallow fields were entirely covered with the yellow blossoms
+of the golden rod, or St. John's wort, and beautiful
+asters, mostly with small white or purple flowers. The farm-houses
+in this part of the country are remarkably handsome.
+The barns are built of stone, very large, and have, in the
+lower part, the stables, with eight or twelve doors and windows,
+and over this is the barn, properly so called. At the
+end of the building there is a passage where the wagons
+stand under cover; the windows, doors and roof are frequently
+painted of a reddish brown colour: cattle of all kinds
+surround these farms. The swine are very fat, have broad
+hanging ears, and are generally marked with small round
+black spots, and sometimes, but more rarely, they are reddish
+brown. We saw some fine forests of oak and walnut trees,
+among which is much hickory (<i>Juglans alba</i>), which, next
+to the white oak, and the black walnut tree, furnishes the
+best timber. In general this country resembles Germany:
+it is diversified and pleasant; wooded eminences on the sides,
+and bright green meadows, often kept in very good order,
+occur as in our country; but large, new habitations, built
+in rather a different style, the zigzag fences, and the more
+lofty and luxuriant growth of the trees, give, on the whole,
+another character to the scenery.</p>
+
+<p>In Maxatawny township we addressed the inhabitants
+in the German language, who answered us at once in the
+same, and we heard German names all the way to Pittsburg.
+After passing Sackoma Creek, we arrived at ten
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span>
+o'clock at Kutztown, eighteen miles from Bethlehem, where
+we breakfasted. The heat being very great, the dust was
+extremely annoying, for the thunder-storm, which had passed
+over Bethlehem, had not extended to this part of the country.
+The cattle sought protection against the sun, in the shade
+of single trees, or in the orchards. Large stacks of corn,
+six, eight, or ten together, stood in rows by the fences. On
+the right hand ran the Oli Mountains, beautiful verdant
+wooded eminences, which are connected with the Lehigh
+Mountains. About noon we had travelled the thirty-six
+miles to Reading, where we were obliged to stop one day,
+because the stage had already left.</p>
+
+<p>Reading is a very pretty town on the Schuylkill, with 6,000
+or 7,000 inhabitants; it has seven churches, and a new one
+was just then building. There are about 400 negroes and
+people of colour. Some of the streets were not paved in the
+middle, but have on the sides a pavement of bricks for the
+foot passengers, planted with acacias, planes, poplars, and
+other trees. All these towns are rapidly increasing. The
+cholera had already carried off many persons here, but the
+inhabitants would not confess this. We saw a funeral procession
+returning home, in which there were several women
+on horseback; the veils on their large fashionable hats fluttered
+in the wind, and gave this caravan of Amazons a
+singular appearance. Much fruit is grown in the neighbourhood,
+and the apples are good, but not the plums. Peaches
+thrive very well; we saw whole wagon-loads of them brought
+into Reading, around which the people crowded to buy,
+while the children stole them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">56</span> On the 18th of September it was with very great difficulty
+that we got places in the stage, the travellers being
+very numerous. After we had passed Kakusa Creek, we
+came to Womelsdorf, founded by Germans, fourteen miles
+from Reading, where we stopped to dine, and then proceeded
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span>
+over Dolpahaga Creek, to Lebanon County, which is in a
+tract diversified with eminences and wooded mountains. On
+this road we several times passed the Union Canal, which goes
+from Baltimore to Pittsburg, is very nearly completed, and is
+said to have cost 18,000,000 of dollars. After we had passed
+the River Swatara, which runs into the Susquehannah, we
+continued our journey in a dark but fine evening; the crickets
+and grasshoppers chirped all around; but their note is by
+no means so loud as that of those in the Brazils. At length
+we perceived a number of lights before us, and came to
+Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, the end of our
+journey to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Harrisburg is a small town, with only 5,000 inhabitants,
+situated between the Susquehannah and the Union Canal.
+It has broad streets crossing each other at right angles; but
+many of the buildings are of wood, for which they are now,
+however, gradually substituting better ones of brick. Rows
+of trees are planted in front of the houses. The inn at
+which we put up was in a square, which they were just
+covering with broken stones. Here, too, is the market-hall,
+a long roofed building supported by pillars, in which the
+productions of the country are exposed for sale, as in most
+of the towns in the United States. Harrisburg, being the
+capital of the state, is the residence of the Governor. The
+state-house is built on a gentle eminence on the canal, near
+the town, and with its two wings is a very considerable
+building, with a colonnade and a cupola supported by pillars.
+Another interesting point of the town is the view of the
+Susquehannah, which is very broad here, and forms an island.
+A long bridge, covered at top, and enclosed at the sides, is
+built over each arm of the river. One of these bridges is
+about 600 paces in length. In the first there are twenty-three
+glass windows, and it has two pillars on shore, and
+five in the river. There are colossal bridges of this kind in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span>
+the United States; and there is one further down the Susquehannah,
+which is one and a quarter mile and four rods
+in length, and has fifty-two pillars. The view from this
+bridge up the river is peculiarly beautiful. Verdant wooded
+islands adorn its surface, which is broad, but it was at this
+time very shallow. There are 500 negroes and people of
+colour. Germans are met with everywhere, and we were
+told that an able German physician lived here.</p>
+
+<p>The defective arrangements of the post-houses obliged us
+to stop here three days, and it was not till the 21st of September,
+in the evening, that we could leave the town to continue
+our journey during the night. We passed the Susquehannah,
+and the Juniata, which comes from the Alleghany
+Mountains, and flows into it. On the 22nd, at day-break,
+we were at the little village of Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>Mexico is in Mifflin County, forty miles from Harrisburg.
+Three miles further is the village of Mifflin Town, the capital
+of the county, where they were just building a new town-hall.
+The Union Canal, which connects Philadelphia and
+Baltimore with Pittsburg, in general follows the <span class="opage">57</span> same
+direction as the river Juniata, near which it often runs at a
+greater elevation, and sometimes is even carried over it.
+The river is here about as broad as the Lehigh, but was at
+this time very shallow. Beyond Mifflin Town it receives
+the Los Creek. From this place we observed in the valley
+many robinias, which grow very high and vigorous, as well
+on the mountain, which is rather dry, as by the water-side;
+vines as thick as a man's arm twine round the trunks, and
+frequently rise to the very summit. The nettle tree (<i>Celtis</i>)
+grew in great abundance, and the maples were just assuming
+their red tinge. The picturesque forest is intermingled
+with Canadian pines, many of which are quite blighted and
+withered. The valley now became wilder and more romantic;
+on the right hand rose a high precipice, covered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span>
+with bolders, fragments of rock, mouldering trunks, and the
+finest trees of the country, forming a real wilderness. A
+very narrow part of the valley, where we watered our horses
+at an insulated house, bears the name of the Long Narrows;
+and the steep wooded mountain, on the south bank of the
+river, is called Blacklog Mountain; it is said to be the haunt
+of bears and stags. The cattle belonging to the log-houses
+were grazing among the rocks. After some time the valley
+grew more open, and at a wider spot, near the road, which
+descended towards the defile of James Creek, was a group of
+lofty and slender robinias, on which a flock of tame turkeys
+were sitting. These birds resemble in colour the wild ones
+which are common in this country; they often go into the
+forests, where they breed, and come home again with their
+young ones. After passing Kishikokinas Creek, we reached,
+at a broad part of the valley, the village of Louis Town, in
+which there are some considerable houses. The country
+people were ploughing and harrowing their fields; and I
+may here observe, that, in all Pennsylvania, they never
+employ oxen in these operations, but horses only, of which
+they have great numbers. The plough is rather different
+from that of Germany.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Louis Town we saw a number of horsemen, assembled
+for the fox-chase. The fox was caught in a trap, then
+let loose at a certain spot, and hunted with many dogs, as
+in England. In a district diversified with forests and cultivated
+fields, we came to Waynesburg, a small town agreeably
+situated in a valley. The forests began to assume their
+autumnal tints; the maples, the dogwood (<i>Cornus Florida</i>),
+and the sumach, were partly red; the walnut trees, and the
+hickory, yellow, which gave great variety to the landscape.
+Near some habitations we observed weeping willows of extraordinary
+size. The surrounding mountains were covered
+with forests, into which we penetrated to ascend the first
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span>
+ridge of the Western Alleghanys. The road, which is, for
+the most part, in bad condition, rose obliquely on the side
+of a rude picturesque precipice. Except a pheasant, which
+flew past us, we saw but few living objects. Advancing
+into the valley we again came to the Juniata, over which
+the canal is here carried by an aqueduct, supported by four
+pillars. In this part of the river there are several dams, such
+as we had seen in the Lehigh, near Bethlehem, with this
+difference that here they are triple. For this purpose, rows
+<span class="opage">58</span> of stones, piled one upon another, are laid across the
+river, forming, in the direction of the stream, acute angles,
+where a basket is placed, in which the fish are collected.</p>
+
+<p>At a place where three valleys meet stands the village of
+Huntingdon,<a name="FNanchor_56" id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> ninety miles from Harrisburg, where we found
+a tolerably good inn, on an eminence above the banks of the
+Juniata. From this inn we proceeded, during the night,
+through high rude tracts and forests, past Alexandria, and
+at midnight reached Yellow Springs, and then the highest
+points of this ridge, called the summit, between 2,400 and
+3,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the vicinity of Blair's
+Gap. This wild mountain region bears hemlock spruce
+firs of colossal magnitude, mixed with other timber. The
+night was clear and cool; towards morning fogs arose from
+the deep valleys, which at daybreak covered the pine forest
+through which we descended. We passed the Conomaugh
+Creek, and then arrived at the little town of Ebensburg, on
+an open spot in the forest. We stopped here at a small
+inn to wait for our travelling companions.</p>
+
+<p>Ebensburg, the capital of Cambria County, is an inconsiderable
+place, consisting of wooden buildings, forming not
+much more than one broad, unpaved street, but has a town-house
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span>
+and a pretty large church. The inhabitants, about
+300 or 400 in number, are of English, Irish, and some of
+German extraction. The surrounding country is very mountainous
+and woody, and is said to abound in all sorts of
+game, as indeed the many skins of lynxes, racoons, martens,
+and minks, fastened against the houses, prove; bears, stags,
+and wolves, are said not to be uncommon, as lofty and dark
+forests surround the town within a couple of hundred paces.
+Ebensburg derives some profit from the numerous wagons,
+drawn by two, four, or six strong horses, that pass through
+it on the high road to Pittsburg.</p>
+
+<p>Our hunting excursions in this rude country were very interesting.
+We proceeded first in a northern direction into
+the forest, which we found to be quite a primeval wilderness.
+The mountains rise peak above peak, with deep ravines,
+where pines, beeches, chestnuts, birches, maples, and walnut
+trees of various kinds, form a gloomy forest, and fallen
+and decayed trunks check your advance at every step; cool,
+sylvan brooks rushed foaming through all the defiles, and
+we had continually to cross them on natural bridges, formed
+by the fallen trunks of trees. Such old trunks are covered
+with a whole world of mosses, lichens, fungiwood, sorrel,
+ferns, &amp;c.; nay, even young shoots of maple, beeches, and
+tulip trees, had taken root on them. We clambered over
+the trunks, went round the fallen giants of the forest, and
+found everywhere, on the ground, traces of the numerous
+squirrels (<i>Sciurus cinereus</i>), in the remains of fruit and shells,
+especially, of the chestnut.</p>
+
+<p>But there was also an interesting wilderness in the opposite
+direction. Here a very extensive fall of timber had been
+commenced&mdash;a gigantic labour, as in Brazil, where the
+wood is burnt afterwards, as soon as it is sufficiently dry.
+The sturdy woodcutters were of German extraction, and
+spoke German. From this place a dark narrow path led
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span>
+through an old pine forest, where <span class="opage">59</span> the little creeping
+<i>Michella repens</i>, here called ground berry, with its beautiful
+red berries, grew among the moss, and often covered the
+ground. Several small runs and muddy ditches crossed
+the forest, over which I walked or rode on trunks of trees
+that served as bridges; in doing which my clothes suffered
+not a little. Woodpeckers abounded here, especially the
+great black woodpecker (<i>P. pileatus</i>), which we had not seen
+before. It is nearly as large as a crow, and its splendid
+bright red tuft is conspicuous at a great distance. They
+were very shy; knocked and hammered on the dead pine
+trees, which stood like the ruins of a colonnade, and were
+pierced and bored by their strong bills. This fine large bird
+is called here, and in general, woodcock. A young man who
+lived in the forest, some miles off, told me that bears, stags,
+and other wild animals, were very numerous, particularly
+the pheasant, or cock of the wood (<i>Tetrao umbellus</i>), one of
+which we shot. There is a saw-mill here, among the lofty
+pines, on an arm of Conomaugh Creek, in a wild, lonely spot.
+The owner was not a little astonished at my double-barrelled
+percussion gun. After we had spent two days here in exploring
+the woods, our travelling companions, Dr. Saynisch
+and Mr. Bodmer, at length joined us, on the 26th, but as
+the latter still had need of rest, on account of his wound,
+we took their places, and set out immediately for Pittsburg.</p>
+
+<p>Seven miles from Ebensburg is the place which is looked
+upon as the boundary of the Alleghanys, properly so called;
+here begins the ridge called the Laurel Hills, for these mountains
+consist of several parallel chains, many of which have
+distinct names. The forest now assumes a different character.
+Oaks of various species succeed the pines and beeches;
+the forest is not so high, rude, and thick, and from an elevated
+spot on the road there is a fine view as you look back
+on the long wooded chain of the Alleghanys.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The traveller soon sees before him a deep and wide valley
+in which the Conomaugh River flows, and beyond it a long
+ridge, covered with verdant woods, called the Chestnut Ridge,
+in which there is a gap, through which both the river and
+the canal pass. The eminences are uniformly wooded, and
+the chestnut and chestnut oak appear to predominate.
+We changed horses at Further Laurel Hill, and at Amagh,
+and then passed the gap. In the meadows and fields, the
+stumps of the trees that had been cut down were still
+standing, for the whole country was formerly one unbroken
+forest. The habitations were few in number, and, at the
+same time, small and wretched. We were told that this
+part of the country is chiefly inhabited by Irish, who are bad
+managers, and addicted to drinking. A better character
+is given to the settlers of German origin, and they are said
+frequently to possess well cultivated farms.</p>
+
+<p>In the woods of this district, we everywhere remarked that
+the tops of the branches, for about a foot or a foot and a
+half, were hanging down and withered, which is caused by
+a kind of cricket (locust, <i>Cicada septem decem</i>, Linn.). This
+insect, which, as is well known, appears only once in seventeen
+years, but then, like the cockchafer with us, in prodigious
+numbers, had abounded <span class="opage">60</span> in Pennsylvania in 1832, and
+in many places was a real scourge; it does not, however,
+appear everywhere at the same time. But a few weeks before,
+they were so numerous in these forests, that the noise
+they made almost overpowered the human voice. On examining
+the withered twigs, we found the bark, as it were,
+ripped open in many places, the wood quite dry, and in the
+sap, a whitish substance, which consists of the eggs of the
+insect.</p>
+
+<p>As we drove rapidly down the hills, we saw before us the
+extensive valley of the Conomaugh, for the most part covered
+with woods, and gently rising on all sides, in which, a little
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span>
+higher up, the small town of Indiana is situated. We stopped
+at a lonely inn by the road-side, watered our horses, and
+hastened forwards. On every side we saw extensive forests,
+and from the next eminence looked down into another valley,
+in which the Conomaugh runs by the town of Blairsville,
+a pretty little place, with many respectable houses, and a
+very good inn, in a broad main street, which runs directly
+across the valley. The country is hilly, or mountainous,
+well cultivated, and with neat farm-houses scattered around.
+From this place, it is ten miles to New Alexandria, a village
+with tolerably good wooden houses, many of which are
+painted. Beyond it runs the Loyalhanna, a small stream,
+which was at this time very shallow, with a covered bridge
+over it. At nightfall we reached New Salem, then Millersburg,
+and about midnight, Pittsburgh.<a name="FNanchor_57" id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a></p>
+
+<p>Pittsburg is an old, large, but by no means handsome
+town, celebrated for its manufactories and brisk trade, and
+has been described by many travellers. The town itself
+has 12,000 inhabitants; but with the suburbs, its population
+is estimated at 24,000 souls, including many Germans, some
+of whom are respectable merchants. Coal mines in the
+immediate neighbourhood (a part of which is now on fire),
+afford an ample supply of fuel for the numerous steam-engines,
+stoves, &amp;c. The style of building in the town is
+everything but uniform, neat brick houses being mixed with
+small wooden ones. The streets are ill-paved, dirty, and
+badly lighted; some of them, however, are modern and regular;
+and the new edifices are handsome and elegant. There
+are many iron works, nail manufactories, glasshouses, cotton
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span>
+manufactories, &amp;c., in many of which, steam-engines are
+employed, of which, as we were told, there are above 100 at
+work, which are likewise made here.</p>
+
+<p>This town lies on the tongue of land between the rivers
+Monongahela and Alleghany, which, by their union, form
+the Ohio; this river is not very considerable here; yet, at
+certain seasons, when the water is high, it is navigable by
+steam-boats, of which I counted sixteen on the banks of the
+Monongahela. Over the Alleghany there is a covered bridge,
+500 paces in length, which has, on each side, an additional
+covered footpath; and a covered aqueduct, of the same
+length, is likewise carried across the river. A similar long
+and colossal bridge is built over the Monongahela.</p>
+
+<p>The situation of Pittsburg itself is not very pleasing, but
+there are interesting points in the environs. As I was furnished
+with very good letters of recommendation, several of
+the inhabitants of Pittsburg endeavoured to make my stay
+there agreeable. Messrs. Volz and Von Bonnhorst <span class="opage">61</span> (the
+latter of whom had been an officer in the Prussian army)
+were extremely kind to me. Mr. Lambdin, possessor of a
+museum which was yet in its infancy, likewise gave useful
+recommendations and instructions.<a name="FNanchor_58" id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> Mr. Volz had the
+goodness to accompany me to Economy, the remarkable and
+interesting colony of Mr. Rapp. For this purpose we left
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span>
+Pittsburg on the 29th, passed the great Alleghany bridge,
+and the suburb, and drove by the large new House of Correction,
+towards the Ohio.<a name="FNanchor_59" id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> On the eminence to the
+right of the town is the convent of Flanders nuns, who have
+established a school, in which they receive children of all
+religious denominations. We proceeded on the right bank
+of the Ohio, eighteen miles, to Economy.</p>
+
+<p>Economy has been described, in its leading features, by
+Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar;<a name="FNanchor_60" id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> but it has become much
+more flourishing since that time. It is well known that old
+Mr. Rapp, with a company of between 600 and 700 Swabian
+emigrants, came to America, and had, at that time, but very
+limited resources. He founded, with his people, successively
+three settlements; first, Old Harmony, near the Ohio;
+then, New Harmony, on the Wabash, in the State of Indiana;
+and then, Economy, near Pittsburg. This last settlement
+has now about 150 houses, which at first were slightly built
+of wood, but are now succeeded by better ones of brick;
+they are two stories high, and neatly painted. The church
+is spacious and plain, built of brick, with a pretty steeple,
+and a good bell.</p>
+
+<p>The rapidity with which these settlements sprung up,
+amidst thick forests, proves the judgment and prudence of
+their founder. The order introduced at Economy is
+admirable; nobody is seen in the streets during the day;
+all the inhabitants are usefully employed; young men and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span>
+women, and also the children, are distributed among the
+several manufactories, where they work and receive no
+wages, but all their wants are amply provided for, free of
+cost. They are cleanly and neatly dressed in their Swabian
+costume, and nothing but German is spoken amongst them.
+The possessions and the revenues of the whole establishment
+are the joint property of the community, every inhabitant
+having placed his property in the common fund. Mr. Rapp
+and his adopted son are the directors, and the only complaint
+is, that no account is given of the management, and that the
+government of the institution is rather too dictatorial. Be
+this as it may, it cannot be denied that the arrangement and
+direction of this artificial society are admirable, and do honour
+to the founder. Mr. Rapp has established several important
+manufactories with steam-engines; even silks are manufactured
+from silk produced on the spot. The mulberry
+plantations and the management of the silk-worms are under
+the especial care of Mr. Rapp's grand-daughter. The manufactories
+alone are said now to yield an annual profit of
+20,000 dollars. Several large buildings have been erected
+for a cotton and a woollen cloth manufactory, a mill, an inn,
+where the accommodations are very good and reasonable, &amp;c.
+Everything they want is raised or made by themselves. They
+have extensive corn fields and vineyards, and breed great
+numbers of <span class="opage">62</span> cattle. Mr. Rapp has erected a large building,
+with a great saloon in the upper story, where the inhabitants
+meet on festive occasions, and where they have musical
+entertainments. In the lower story of this building, a cabinet
+of natural history has been commenced, in three rooms,
+which already contains some very interesting specimens.</p>
+
+<p>After we had viewed all these objects, and had been led
+by Mr. Rapp, jun., through the manufactories, we went to
+the dwelling-house of the director of the establishment, and
+met with a very friendly reception from his family, who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span>
+were dressed entirely in the manner of the country people
+of W�rtemberg. They told us they would never deviate
+from their old national manners, and would always remain
+Germans, which we were very glad to hear. Soon afterwards,
+the founder of the establishment, Mr. Rapp, came
+in. He was a vigorous old man, of venerable appearance,
+with white hair and a long beard. We supped with him,
+drank very good wine produced here, and, in conclusion,
+were entertained by six or seven girls and a young man, who
+is the schoolmaster, and is said to be well informed, with
+singing and playing on the piano. We here became acquainted
+with Mr. Ehrmann of Mannheim, an agreeable,
+well-educated man, whose wife is likewise a very interesting
+person, and who was engaged in establishing a manufactory
+near Economy.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we viewed the park, in which there
+were seventeen Virginian deer. Most of them had already
+got their winter coat; some were still a little red: they cast
+their horns in March. As it was Sunday, the people assembled,
+at nine in the morning, in the church, which has
+neither pulpit nor organ. The men sat on the right hand
+of the preacher, the women on the left; the older persons
+in front, the young people a little way back. Mr. Rapp's
+family had the first place. When the congregation were
+assembled, old Mr. Rapp entered with a firm step, seated
+himself at a table which was on a raised platform, and gave
+out a hymn, which was sung in rather quick time. After
+a prayer delivered standing, he preached on a text from the
+bible, in a bold, figurative style, well suited to country
+people, and with very animated gesticulation. After the
+sermon some verses were sung, and Mr. Rapp delivered a
+prayer, which the congregation repeated after him, sitting.
+The word Amen was always repeated by the whole congregation.
+In the afternoon we took a very cordial farewell
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span>
+of the worthy family of Mr. Rapp, and set out on our return.</p>
+
+<p>The country about Pittsburg has some zoological rarities,
+specimens of which my travelling companions had collected
+during my absence. Among them are, in particular, many
+interesting fresh water shells of the Ohio. Several American
+naturalists have written on these Bivalve testacea; and
+there is, probably, no other country so rich in beautiful and
+manifold productions of this kind. On their excursions in
+the neighbouring islands in the Ohio, they met with trees
+of colossal size, and especially a maple, that measured twenty
+French feet in circumference at the height of twelve feet
+from the ground, where it divided into four thick parallel
+stems, from which <span class="opage">63</span> the branches issued. Among the
+remarkable and interesting natural productions of these
+rivers, we must mention the soft shell turtles of the Americans
+(<i>Trionyx</i>, <i>Aspidonectes</i>, Wagl.), of which there are
+two or three species. They grow to a great size, and are
+often seen in the markets. Another very remarkable animal,
+which is very numerous here, is the great Alleghany salamander
+(<i>Menopoma</i>, Harlan), which is here called alligator,
+and of which I obtained many specimens alive, so that Mr.
+Bodmer was able to make an accurate drawing from the
+life. Then there is the <i>Triton lateralis</i>, Say., or <i>Menobranchus
+lateralis</i>, Harlan, which differs from the preceding by
+the tufts at the gills, which remain even in old age. America
+is well known to abound in these singular enigmatical animal
+forms, which are nearly akin to the European <i>Proteus</i>,
+or <i>Hypochthon</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER VII</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY FROM PITTSBURG TO NEW HARMONY, ON THE WABASH, FROM
+8TH TO 19TH OCTOBER, 1832</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Cannonsburg&mdash;Wheeling&mdash;Embarkation in the Nile Steam-boat&mdash;Marietta,
+on the Muskingum River&mdash;Indian Antiquities&mdash;Flat-boats&mdash;Gallipolis&mdash;Portsmouth,
+at the mouth of the Scioto River&mdash;Cincinnati&mdash;Big
+Miami River, which forms the boundary between Ohio
+and Indiana&mdash;Louisville, on the Falls of the Ohio&mdash;Horse-races&mdash;Embarkation
+in the Waterwitch Steam-boat&mdash;The Cholera on
+Board&mdash;Mount Vernon&mdash;Landing&mdash;Journey by Land to New
+Harmony.</p>
+
+<p>The Ohio, called by the French <i>La Belle Rivi�re</i>, was at
+this time too shallow at Pittsburg to be navigated by steamboats,
+and we were therefore obliged to go by land to
+Wheeling,<a name="FNanchor_61" id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> a distance of fifty-seven miles; by the river, it
+is ninety-five miles. After taking leave of Dr. Saynisch,
+who returned to Bethlehem, we crossed the Ohio, near
+the town, in a well contrived ferry, the wheels of which
+were moved by four horses. Our stage was drawn rapidly,
+by four good horses, along the path of the mountains,
+where the road passed through lofty forests, great part of
+which was, however, ruined and cleared. The foliage was
+adorned with the most beautiful varied tints of autumn,
+a circumstance which distinguishes North America, at this
+season, from all other countries. In the Brazils, it is the
+spring, or the transition from the rainy to the dry season,
+that adorns the forest with the most beautiful diversity of
+tints, which, however, are chiefly produced by the flowers,
+which frequently appear before the leaves. North America,
+on the other hand, has but few such flowering trees; most
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span>
+of them have catkins (<i>amenta</i>), and it is the foliage, which
+assumes in the autumn so great a variety of colours.</p>
+
+<p>On the next eminence, the road leaves the river, and
+turns to the south-west. Strata of coal appear in some
+places, and workmen were busy in removing the earth above
+them. We frequently met with European emigrants, most
+of them in their peasant's dress, with faces burnt by the
+sun, and carrying their children. The country consists of
+high hills and forests, and we frequently saw the robinia,
+pseud-acacia, which is partly planted for the sake of its
+timber, potatoes, <span class="opage">65</span> clover, and corn, which was now in the
+ear. A great deal of fruit is cultivated here, and the farmers
+were just reaping the maize. The farm-houses are all
+slightly built of wood, with the chimney on the outside, to
+avoid the danger of fire. As the sun shone with intense
+heat, the birds were all life, twittering on the high trees,
+where the loquacious blackbirds flew about in companies.
+The woods, presenting a beautiful mixture of yellow, vermilion,
+purple and green, gave us much pleasure, and we
+reached Chattier or Shirtee Creek, which, after numerous
+windings, falls into the Ohio, near Wheeling. We proceeded
+along its valley, where colossal planes and elms, as well
+as robinia and willows, afforded a welcome shade. We had
+passed several covered bridges before we reached Cannonsburg,
+eighteen miles from Pittsburg, where we changed
+horses, and, as usual in all such places in the United States,
+were gazed at by the curious and the idle. There is a
+college here for young divinity students. We now traversed
+the valley of the Chattier Creek, where the plane trees were
+very lofty and spreading. They were covered with their
+round fruit, from which the Americans have given the tree
+the name of button-wood.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we reached Washington,<a name="FNanchor_62" id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> a village, beyond which
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>
+the country presented an alternation of forests and fields,
+where stumps of trees showed that the whole country east
+of the Mississippi was a primeval forest. We found an ample
+variety in the splendid woods, where the lime (<i>Tilia grandifolia</i>),
+with its colossal leaves, was not uncommon, and the
+willow-leaved oak (<i>Quercus phellos</i>), was likewise in great
+abundance, the foliage of which resembles our white willow,
+but the bark and fruit are exactly like those of the oak.
+After passing a village called Alexandria, or more properly
+Alexander we reached the boundary of the state of Pennsylvania,
+and entered Virginia, which last state has a narrow
+strip of land on the eastern bank of the Ohio. The land
+here is said to be fruitful, and very well cultivated, though
+we did not immediately perceive this in the narrow valley
+of the Wheeling Creek, through which we drove. We saw
+numbers of young oxen, all brought for sale from the state of
+Ohio, where the breeding of cattle is very extensive. Many
+of these oxen had uncommonly large horns, others none at
+all. It was a beautiful moonlight evening when we passed
+the Mean Creek, which joins that above-mentioned, and
+both together forming Wheeling Creek. At this place, not
+far from the road-side, there is a pillar erected in honour
+of Mr. Henry Clay, who had been very instrumental in the
+opening of this road. The night prevented our taking a
+view of it. From an eminence we saw before us numerous
+lamps in Wheeling, and the Ohio sparkling in the light of
+the moon, and then took up our quarters at an inn at that
+place. Wheeling is a rapidly improving town, containing
+5,200 inhabitants, where at this time they were building
+whole streets, and is situated on a ledge of the mountain,
+on the bank of the Ohio. On the summit there is not much
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span>
+more than one broad, unpaved street, with footpaths of
+bricks: shops of all kinds were already opened. The Ohio
+at this place is about as broad as the Moselle near its mouth.
+The banks are moderately high wooded mountains, the uncultivated
+places in which are often overgrown with <i>Datura</i>.
+Two <span class="opage">66</span> steam-boats were expected on the 9th of October,
+and at noon we embarked on board the Nile, a small vessel,
+because steamers of a large size cannot come so high up
+the river. Our large or lower cabin had sixteen beds, the
+upper cabin being appropriated to the women. The river
+was, at this time, very low, and its banks, from forty to fifty
+feet high, consisted of yellowish red clay and strata of sand.</p>
+
+<p>The traces of the great inundation of the preceding spring
+were everywhere visible in uprooted trees, thrown one over
+the other. The water at that time overflowed the lower
+stories of the houses of Wheeling; whereas it was now so
+low, that our boat was obliged to stop for the night. Early
+on the following morning, however, the 10th of October, we
+passed Elizabeth Town. On the banks of the river lay
+pirogues, composed of the trunk of a tree hollowed out, like
+those in Brazil, and small habitations were scattered in the
+lofty and picturesque forests. A little field of maize generally
+surrounded these dwellings, and the recently felled
+trees indicated that it was a new settlement. The eminences
+on the banks of the Ohio are, in general, rounded, steep,
+wooded hills, separated by valleys or ravines. In many
+places stacks of wood were piled up for the steam-boats,
+and some was already in boats. We arrived at New Town,
+on the right bank, at the mouth of the Sunfish Creek,
+a village with only eight houses, which was not yet marked
+on Tanner's map.<a name="FNanchor_63" id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> Near Fishing Creek, which falls into
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span>
+the Ohio, we saw the white-headed eagle soaring in the
+air, while the kingfishers flew about the banks, and the note
+of the black crow sounded in the tall forests. Near the
+village of Sistersville, on the right bank, in the state of Ohio,
+the sand-banks in the river were covered with the yellow
+blossoms of some plant, which, however, I was not able
+clearly to distinguish; but it was an autumnal flower, and
+the wind reminded us of the approach of the cold season,
+blowing quantities of leaves from the forest, in some places
+entirely covering the surface of the water with them. Towards
+noon, the sun shone bright, and the gay tints of the
+forest appeared more lovely than ever; colossal planes,
+maples, tulip trees, beeches, elms, ashes, limes, walnuts,
+and other trees, grow to a great height, and beneath their
+shade we saw many rustic bridges, or planks, thrown picturesquely
+across the little brooks. The trunks of the trees,
+covered with the <i>Hedera quinquefolia</i>, which made them
+look like scarlet columns, and the varied tints of the foliage,
+charm the beholder. All along the Ohio, Mississippi, and
+Lower Missouri, the papaw tree (<i>Asimina triloba Dunal</i>)
+grows as underwood. Its fruit, resembling a small cucumber,
+was now ripe, and great quantities were brought on
+board our steamer. This tree has a beautiful light green,
+large, smooth leaf, and violet brown flower, which grows
+isolated, but it does not attain a greater height than between
+twenty and thirty feet. The fruit has a pleasant taste, but
+the smell is disagreeable. It contains a whitish, juicy pulp,
+and twelve thick black kernels.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A heavy fall of rain was very welcome to us, the water in
+the river being so low that our boat frequently grounded.
+At a narrow part of the river we came to the village of
+Newark, and then to the mouth of the Muskingum River,
+at the town of Marietta, which was founded in 1788.<a name="FNanchor_64" id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> This
+<span class="opage">67</span> place is small, but it has neat brick buildings, some
+of which looked like churches. We have read much about
+the ancient Indian remains and ramparts, between the
+Ohio and the Muskingum. Smith Barton, Attwater, Schultz,
+and especially Warden,<a name="FNanchor_65" id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> have written on this highly interesting
+subject, and given ground plans of the Indian ramparts,
+which are met with at many places in the state of
+Ohio, at Cincinnati, Wheeling, Chillicothe, as well as in all
+the States west of the Alleghanys, and respecting which
+Warden has collected everything that is known; but most
+of these interesting remains have been entirely annihilated
+by the love of devastation, or the negligence of the new
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span>
+settlers. Thus Marietta is built just on the fore part of the
+Indian works, and many of them are no longer to be seen.
+It is much to be lamented that the government of the United
+States suffers all this to be done without any attempt to
+prevent it. It looks on unmoved, while the plough continues
+from year to year the destruction of these remains
+of ages long since past, the only historical monuments of this
+country. Schultz gave, in 1820, a ground plan of the ramparts
+near Marietta, as Smith Barton and Warden did more
+recently; and Mr. Thomas Say made a sketch of them in
+1815, which he communicated to me. A great part of them
+has been since ploughed over.</p>
+
+<p>From Marietta we came to the Island of Muskingum,
+and then to Vienna Island; opposite to which, on the left
+bank, lies the village of Vienna. Swallows, which had long
+since left Pennsylvania, were still flying about here. We
+everywhere heard accounts of the great flood in the Ohio,
+when the steam-boats were on a level with the second story
+of the houses in Marietta.</p>
+
+<p>We saw tall forest trees, among the thick branches of
+which the river had deposited beams and other pieces of
+wood.<a name="FNanchor_66" id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> Below Parkersburg, a village on the southern side,
+the little Kenhava River issues from the high bank opposite
+Belpie, a settlement of a few houses.<a name="FNanchor_67" id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> A steam-boat, which
+had been entirely crushed by the ice, proved how violent
+the effects of the breaking up of the ice in the Ohio sometimes
+are. Our captain lay to for the night, on the right
+bank, which was necessary, on account of the unfavourable
+weather; the rain being so heavy, that it drenched the upper
+row of beds in the large cabin.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the 11th October the weather was fairer, but very cool.
+The appearance of the bank was the same as before&mdash;an
+unbroken, thick forest, with here and there some little settlements.
+We reached, at an early hour, the Little Hocking
+River, which comes from the state of Ohio. Ducks, particularly
+teal, flew past us, and we observed, also, many other
+birds of passage on their flight. Near Shade Creek, the
+banks of the river consisted of stratified, rocky walls, which
+appeared to be Grauwacke slate;<a name="FNanchor_68" id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> we observed, in the forest,
+trees of remarkable forms and colours; the trunks, covered
+with the scarlet foliage of the five-leaved ivy, were particularly
+beautiful. We frequently met, in the river, with flat
+boats, which are built all along the banks <span class="opage">68</span> of the Ohio,
+from Pittsburg, and are sent with the produce of the country
+to New Orleans. These boats are large four-cornered chests,
+composed of beams and planks, are often heavily laden,
+draw much water, and, having neither masts nor sails, proceed
+very slowly. They are propelled with large oars, and
+can only go down the river; they are many months on the
+voyage to New Orleans, and the rowers are commonly new
+European emigrants, hired for low wages, and often merely
+for a free passage. Many of these boats are wrecked, and
+they are, therefore, frequently insured; at New Orleans
+they are sold for lumber.</p>
+
+<p>The woods in the valley of the Ohio are more lofty and
+luxuriant than on the other side of the Alleghany Mountains;
+vines twine round the trees, and present a faint image of
+the woods of warmer countries. The kingfisher was common;
+the swallows had not yet taken their flight, and in
+some places the sandpiper was seen upon the bank. In the
+vicinity of the houses were cattle, horses, swine, large sheep,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span>
+and numerous flocks of European geese and ducks; here,
+too, the papaw tree was sometimes planted in rows. The
+river increased in breadth, but not in depth, of which we had
+the proof before us, for a flat boat had run aground, and
+the people stood in the water, trying to get it afloat. In
+this part of the country there are, in the state of Ohio, many
+Swiss colonists, who are much commended for their industry.
+The soil is extremely fruitful, and needs no manure.
+The dwellings of these people are small log-houses, exactly
+like the huts in Switzerland. Towards noon, before we
+reached Point Pleasant, we saw, in many places on the
+Ohio, considerable coal-pits, the sulphureous smell of which
+was perceptible in the steamer; many boats lay ready to
+take in cargoes; negro children were sitting in groups on
+the bank, near their extensive plantations of maize. These
+people are free in the state of Ohio. After we had passed
+Point Pleasant, a village on the left bank, where fine forests
+cover the low bank of the great Kenhava River, which here
+falls into the Ohio, we reached, in about twenty minutes,
+Gallipolis, on the right bank, an old French colony, the
+inhabitants of which still speak the French language.<a name="FNanchor_69" id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> Immediately
+below that town, there is a fine forest of beech
+trees; on the water-side, thickets of plane, and between them
+the papaw tree took the place which, in Pennsylvania, is
+occupied by the <i>Rhododendron maximum</i>; willows grew in
+front of the planes.</p>
+
+<p>The sun disappeared behind the hills on the bank; the
+evening sky was clear and serene, and the bright mirror
+of the Ohio extended unruffled near Racoon Creek, where
+we saw large flocks of ducks. We intended to continue
+our voyage during the night; but, about nine o'clock, we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span>
+struck violently on a sand-bank, near the Indian Guyandot
+River, where there is a small village of the same name, and,
+as a thick fog arose, we lay to, six miles below Guyandot.<a name="FNanchor_70" id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of October, in the morning, a dense fog
+covered the river, and the thermometer was, at half-past six
+o'clock, at 10� Reaumur, above zero. We passed the mouth
+of Symes Creek, and then Burlington, a small scattered village
+in Lawrence County, where our boat struck upon some
+stones, and was thrown a little on one side. On the left
+bank was Cadetsburg, <span class="opage">69</span> with Big Sandy Creek, then
+Hanging Rock, a small village, where most of the iron utensils
+for the whole of Ohio are shipped. The situation of
+the place is picturesque, surrounded with forests and rocks.
+On the left, or Kentucky bank, we passed Greenupsburg, a
+row of seventeen or eighteen small houses, on the high bank.
+The inhabitants, in order to attract the notice of the vessels
+that pass by to their public-houses, stores, or shops, have
+set up posts, with boards painted white, on which their trade,
+&amp;c., is described in very large letters. The beech woods on
+this part of the river were remarkably fine, their foliage green
+and yellow. On our right hand was the little Scioto River;
+we then came to the village of Portsmouth, at the mouth of
+the Scioto River, on the Ohio bank, where the celebrated
+Ohio Canal begins, which connects that river with lake Erie.
+At this place we took on board a number of European emigrants,
+among whom were many Germans, with their baggage,
+beds, and other effects, and many children. The
+negroes brought provisions for sale; one of them had a number
+of fowls, all of which escaped, and caused no little amusement.
+From this place, fine forests covered the bank, in
+which were tall poplars (<i>Populus Angulata</i>, or <i>Canadensis</i>),
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span>
+which I had not before observed. Here, too, I noticed some
+interesting forms of mountains, which in general are very
+rare in this country. Most of the summits are round, some
+broad, but very few pointed. Towards evening we came
+to the village of Rockville,<a name="FNanchor_71" id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> on the right bank, which was
+not marked on our map, and lay to, at nightfall, when we
+learned that our vessel had caught fire, but happily it was
+already extinguished. On the bank near the steam-boat,
+a large fire was burning, the reflection of which, on the dark
+forest, had a fine effect, and so had the steamers that hastened
+past us, which were brightly lighted up inside, and emitted
+sparks of fire as they rushed along in the dark night.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th, at daybreak, the landscape was obscured by
+rain. We had passed, during the night, Adamsville, Manchester,
+Aberdeen, Ripley, Vanceburg, Maysville, and Augusta,
+and were now off the village of Neville, where the
+Helen Mar steam-boat lay near us, to take in wood. We
+then came to Moscow, then to Point Pleasant, and on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span>
+right bank to New Richmond.<a name="FNanchor_72" id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> Near the little Miami
+River, six miles from Cincinnati, the Ohio was so shallow,
+that we saw the shells at the bottom, and our boat struck
+several times. The Miami River was nearly dry. At
+Columbia, in the state of Ohio, the valley becomes rather
+wider, but the hills soon close in again upon the river,
+and we come to the beginning of the great town of Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>Cincinnati, the most important and flourishing town of
+the West, with more than 36,000 inhabitants, was at this
+time visited by the cholera, which, as we were assured by a
+physician who came to our vessel, carried off, on an average,
+forty persons daily. I therefore resolved not to stop now,
+but to visit this town on my return; our baggage was transferred
+to the Portsmouth steamer, which was just about to
+depart; and at noon we reached the mouth of Big Miami
+River.<a name="FNanchor_73" id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 14th of October, we had pleasant sunshiny weather.
+The river had become considerably broader, when we came
+to Six-miles Island, a beautiful island six miles from Louisville.
+<span class="opage">70</span> We had passed several places during the night,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span>
+and likewise the celebrated Big-bone Lick,<a name="FNanchor_74" id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> where colossal
+bones of the mammoth have been dug up at the foot of a
+hill of black earth. I would gladly have stopped at this
+spot, but some of our passengers, who were well acquainted
+with the country, assured me that there was now nothing
+to be seen there, nor was anything more found. All that
+had been obtained had been sold to England and the
+American museums.</p>
+
+<p>Fossil bones<a name="FNanchor_75" id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> of animals are still found in the United
+States, but the possessors having learnt the value of such
+things, ask so high a price for them that it is difficult to
+obtain them; they are, besides, frequently presented, out
+of patriotism, to the American museums.</p>
+
+<p>We soon reached Louisville, a considerable town, with
+12,000 inhabitants, which in 1800 had only 600.<a name="FNanchor_76" id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> It is in
+the state of Kentucky, and, when seen from the river, does
+not make nearly so good an appearance as Cincinnati. Negroes
+conveyed our baggage to the inn, where we found, as
+usual, a great number of gentlemen, for the most part travelling
+merchants. The merchants are, in America, the class
+of people among whom the most idleness is found, and
+they are extremely numerous. The least numerous classes
+are the men of learning, and the military; the latter, in particular,
+so very few, that they are not at all remarked. The
+young men who, in North America, besiege the doors of
+the inns, are, doubtless, most of them, traders. Foreigners
+are often treated with contempt by these persons, who are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>
+usually equally conceited and unpolished, and make observations,
+as soon as they discover a foreigner, either by his
+incorrect pronunciation of English, or by his dress. This
+American conceit is to be attributed partly to their excessive
+patriotism, and partly to their ignorance, and want of acquaintance
+with other countries.</p>
+
+<p>When the dinner-hour was come, such a crowd of gentlemen
+had assembled before the house, that, at the ringing
+of the second (dinner) bell, the dining-room was in a manner
+carried by storm. All rushed impetuously into the
+room, every one making good use of his elbows, and in ten
+minutes all these people had dined and hastened out again.
+Mr. Wenzel, a German merchant, to whom I had letters,
+had the kindness to show me the town and neighbourhood.
+Louisville has the appearance of being likely soon
+to become an important town, and many new houses were,
+in fact, building. The streets are long, broad, and straight,
+crossing each other at right angles, and the situation on
+the Ohio is very favourable for trade. Handsome, showy
+shops are common here, as in all the towns of the United
+States, and elegance of dress characterizes everywhere, even
+in the smallest places, the inhabitants of this country, the
+great object of whose efforts is the acquisition of wealth.
+As it was Sunday, the various sects of the population were
+flocking to their respective places of worship; afterwards,
+many of them were driving out in their gigs. There were
+already above thirty hackney carriages, partly belonging
+to negroes, of whom only the far <span class="opage">71</span> smaller portion are
+free in the state of Kentucky. The state of oppression in
+which the negro slaves live in North America, makes them
+corrupt and knavish, which travellers often have occasion to
+learn by their own experience. At Louisville, the cholera
+had already appeared. Five persons, most of them negroes,
+were carried off the day before our arrival, and a general
+panic had seized the inhabitants.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Wenzel took us to a spot which was intended for
+horse-races, an institution quite new in the Western States.
+A society had purchased a beautiful level spot of ground,
+surrounded with woods, and about four miles in circumference.
+This place was surrounded with palisades, with several
+stands in the centre, and stables in the neighbourhood
+for the horses. The horses of Kentucky are considered
+to be the best in the country; the stallions which were to
+run, and some of which had come from a distance, seemed
+to be mostly of a very good breed, not large, but well built.
+The first races were to continue the whole of the next week.
+This institution will, doubtless, have a good effect in improving
+the breed of horses, and afford the inhabitants of
+the town and neighbourhood both advantage and amusement.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we left Louisville to embark at Portland,
+below the town, on account of the Falls of the Ohio, that
+now cannot be navigated past the town, and therefore a
+canal has been made, where, by the aid of five sluices, the
+boats are raised twenty-two feet. Those who land at Louisville
+embark again at Portland, where there is generally a
+great number of steam-boats, among which we chose the
+Water-witch, bound to New Orleans.<a name="FNanchor_77" id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> There were a great
+many passengers eager to embark, who drove in carriages
+into the river to reach the steam-boat, to which the baggage
+was conveyed in the same manner. The loading of the
+vessel not being completed, we did not set out till the 16th
+of October. At seven o'clock in the morning of that day,
+Reaumur's thermometer was at 5� above zero, while a thick
+fog covered the river. We put off at half-past ten, and had
+a fine view of the magnificent Ohio, with the large town
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
+of Louisville in Kentucky, and New Albany in Indiana,<a name="FNanchor_78" id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>
+opposite, with numerous steam-boats on both banks. It
+was soon discovered that our engine was out of order, and
+we were forced to lie to, on the Indiana side, to repair it.
+As this required much time, we took the opportunity of
+exploring the first forest in this State. The bank was fifty
+feet high, and steep; the upper part of the declivity was
+covered with <i>Datura</i>, the seeds of which were now ripe, but
+very few of the light purple flowers were to be seen. The
+beautiful blue flowering <i>Eupatorium c&oelig;lestinum</i> and the
+<i>Lobelia syphilitica</i> bore their flowers amongst the thorn-apples.
+On the summit of the bank there was a noble
+forest of tall, thick beech, maple, oak, walnut trees, &amp;c.,
+in which there were some plantations of maize, with their
+block-houses. The underwood was everywhere the papaw
+tree, and on the skirts of the forest the yellow flowering
+<i>Cassia Marylandica</i>, with ripe seed. Old trunks lay rotting
+on the ground, which was partly covered with the falling
+leaves.</p>
+
+<p>At nightfall our engine was repaired, and we proceeded
+on our voyage, and on the morning <span class="opage">72</span> of the 17th reached
+the village of Brandenburg, on the Kentucky bank, which
+is here rocky, and marked with horizontal white stripes,
+or strata. The mountains were rounded and covered with
+wood. In Indiana the forest was cleared in some places
+for plantations, which afforded a view into the picturesque
+interior; for on these cleared spots the tall forest trees stood,
+as in the primeval forests in Brazil, like columns crowded
+together. This dense forest was interrupted for a short
+space by the towns of Leavenworth and Rome, in Indiana,
+and Stevensport in Kentucky; the two last with some indifferent
+buildings. From this part the country had no
+great variety, the forests being seldom interrupted. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span>
+islands were bordered with willow bushes, with tall trees
+in the middle. On the bank where the rock was exposed,
+on account of the low water in the river, we observed singular
+forms produced by the action of the stream. They
+consisted of round or elliptical stratified masses, which gradually
+decreased in breadth, so that the whole looked like
+a truncated pyramid rising in terraces. Before night we
+reached Cloverburg, in Kentucky, and lay to till the stars
+or the moon should appear.<a name="FNanchor_79" id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> Numerous card parties sat
+down in the great cabin, where the heat was intolerable.
+Our beds swarmed with cockroaches, which ran over our
+faces and hands, or fell from the ceiling. These disagreeable
+animals are as common here as in Brazil; they gnaw
+everything, and, being quite soft, are crushed by the slightest
+motion.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th, at half-past six o'clock in the morning, the
+thermometer was +16� Reaumur, with rain, and wind,
+and a clouded sky. We reached at an early hour the little
+place of Rockport,<a name="FNanchor_80" id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> in Indiana, and at half-past eight,
+Owenburg, or Yellow Banks, in Kentucky, where we landed
+many passengers. We saw the Turkey buzzard hovering
+over the woods&mdash;a bird which we had not observed since
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span>
+we left Cincinnati, and which is not found to the west of
+the Alleghanys. The Ohio, though the water was extremely
+low, was still very broad and beautiful, its wooded banks
+rather low. French Island, and some others, covered with
+bushes and lime trees, lay quite dry, surrounded with a
+large sand-bank. It was discovered that we had the cholera
+on board. A man from Kentucky had declared himself
+ill early in the morning, and was dead before eleven o'clock,
+though the Captain employed all the remedies in his power.
+He was quite well in the evening, had played at cards all
+night, and did not complain till towards morning. A coffin
+was made of some planks; the vessel lay to on the bank,
+which was steep, and the bell was rung while the body was
+conveyed on shore and buried. Many of our passengers
+landed to see the funeral; others were extremely alarmed,
+and, meantime, took a walk.</p>
+
+<p>After the funeral was over, and a white board, with the
+name of the deceased, had been set up on the grave, the
+bell called the passengers on board; in half an hour we
+reached Evansville on the Indiana bank; soon afterwards
+Pigeon Creek; above this, on the other bank, the Green
+River, and subsequently the village of Henderson.<a name="FNanchor_81" id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> Here
+we took in fresh provisions, and, among the rest, 1000 fowls
+were offered for sale, of which we took a good supply at a
+dollar per dozen. <span class="opage">73</span> The sun was setting with great splendour
+as we left this place; the broad, unruffled bosom of
+the Ohio shone like a silver mirror, in which the beautiful
+wooded banks were reflected, and the magnificent purple
+and orange hues of the sky tinged the river with their glow.</p>
+
+<p>Towards midnight we reached Mount Vernon,<a name="FNanchor_82" id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> where
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span>
+we landed, intending to proceed, the next morning, to New
+Harmony, to visit the naturalists at that place. After
+passing the night at an indifferent inn, I set out for New
+Harmony, on the 19th of October, in the morning. I had
+been indisposed, as well as my huntsman, since I left Louisville,
+and was not in a mood properly to appreciate the
+fine, lofty forests of Indiana, the road through which was
+very bad and rough; the last part of the forest was remarkably
+grand and wild: vines and other climbing plants hung
+down from the old trees. The <i>Amorpha fruticosa</i> frequently
+formed the underwood. At some of the isolated dwellings
+of the farmers, racoon skins were hung up to dry, and the
+beautiful large feathers of the wild turkey were scattered
+on the ground. After having passed, in the most oppressive
+heat, the Big Creek, which flows between the wooded hills,
+we soon reached the fertile valley of the Wabash, near to
+which New Harmony is built.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER VIII</p>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY ABOUT NEW HARMONY IN INDIANA,
+AND WINTER RESIDENCE THERE FROM OCTOBER 19TH,
+1832, TO MARCH 16TH, 1833</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+New Harmony on the Wabash&mdash;The Environs&mdash;Forests&mdash;Animals&mdash;Geological
+Formation&mdash;Climate&mdash;Aborigines&mdash;Remains of the
+former Population&mdash;The present Indians&mdash;The White Usurpers&mdash;Cultivation
+of the Country&mdash;Productions&mdash;Breed of Cattle&mdash;Buffaloes&mdash;The
+Naturalists at Harmony&mdash;Excursions&mdash;Fox River&mdash;Black
+River&mdash;Long Pond&mdash;The present sanitary State of the
+Country.</p>
+
+<p>New Harmony was founded by Mr. Rapp, and his
+Swabian followers, in a wooded plain on the left or east
+bank of the Wabash, about fifteen or twenty miles distant
+from any other place. As Duke Bernhard of Saxe Weimar
+has already spoken on this subject, I need not give any further
+account of the history of this settlement; I will only
+add that Mr. Owen, a Scotchman, bought the whole of
+Mr. Rapp, but afterwards disposed of it to Mr. William
+Maclure, President of the Academy of Natural Sciences of
+Philadelphia.<a name="FNanchor_83" id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> At the time of our visit, Harmony had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span>
+fallen into decay, and the people whom Mr. Maclure had
+settled there, were in part dispersed. Two sons of Mr.
+Owen were, however, still here, and also Mr. Thomas Say,
+and Mr. Lesueur; the first, well known as having accompanied
+Major Long in his two journeys into the interior,
+and the second, by his voyage round the world with Captain
+Baudin, and the celebrated Piron. Though Mr. Maclure
+did not appear to take any active part in the management
+of Harmony, because the climate did not agree with him,
+and he therefore resided in Mexico, he took care to furnish
+Mr. Say with a fine library of books on Natural History,
+which was constantly enriched with the most valuable new
+works published in Europe. He likewise had here a printing
+press, a copper-plate press, and an engraver. Mr. Maclure
+had purchased in France all the plates of Audebert and
+Vieillot's splendid ornithological works, which are preserved
+in the library.<a name="FNanchor_84" id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> Mr. Say has undertaken the superintendence
+of Mr. Maclure's property on the Wabash, but
+lives in a very retired manner, devoted to the study of natural
+history, and to literary pursuits.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">75</span> Harmony is now a large village, with about 600 inhabitants;
+the buildings, which are partly of brick, are
+detached from each other; the streets are at right angles,
+broad, and unpaved. The church built by Mr. Rapp has
+been transformed into an amateur theatre. The situation of
+Harmony is by no means unpleasant. The Wabash, a fine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span>
+river, as broad as the Moselle, winds between banks which
+are now cultivated, but were lately covered with thick
+forests. A hilly tract, covered with woods, bounds the valley
+of the Wabash, which is frequently overflowed by the
+river, and thereby gains in fertility. The place itself lies
+rather higher than the valley, surrounded by orchards, and
+is not exposed to inundations. The Wabash divides at
+Harmony into two arms, the eastern of which is called Cutoff
+River,<a name="FNanchor_85" id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> and further down into several branches, forming
+many wooded islands, the largest of which are inhabited.</p>
+
+<p>New Harmony,<a name="FNanchor_86" id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> is surrounded on all sides by fields,
+which are from 600 to 800 paces in diameter; all around
+are lofty forests, where settlers have everywhere cultivated
+detached patches. These people are generally called backwoodsmen,
+who live like half savages, without any education
+or religious instruction. The forests which they inhabit
+are very extensive, and the soil extremely fertile: vegetation
+is much more luxuriant than to the east of the Alleghanys;
+and, therefore, a short description of the natural productions
+of the country will not be out of place here.</p>
+
+<p>Some remarkable peculiarities strike the observer when
+he looks at the forests on the Wabash; one of these is the
+want of evergreens, if we except the <i>Viscum flavescens</i>, <i>Pursh</i>,
+<i>Bignonia cruciata</i>, <i>Equisetum hyemale</i>, and <i>Miegia macrosperma</i>.
+The leaves of that bignonia, for the most part,
+remain green in the winter, as well as those of the miegia, and
+the stalks of the <i>Equisetum hyemale</i>, at least, in mild winters,
+which often grow to the height of eight or ten feet
+in the dry forests. The planes often attain an enormous
+size, and are then generally hollow, and divided into several
+colossal branches. We measured several of these trees,
+and found one that was forty one feet five inches in circumference.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span>
+The hollow inside was twelve feet in diameter,
+so that in our winter excursions we used to light a fire in it,
+where we sheltered from the wind. Tall tulip trees shoot
+up straight as masts, blossom, and bear seeds at their summits,
+unseen by human eye. Maples of great height and
+circumference, many species of oak, especially the mossy
+overcap oak (<i>Q. macrocarpa</i>), with its large acorns, which,
+at this time, lay on the ground, stand crowded together.
+A great many species of trees are mixed together; among
+them the <i>Gymnocladus Canadensis</i>, or <i>Guilandina Bonduc</i>,
+with its broad pods, the divers kinds of walnut trees, the
+<i>Gleditschia tricanthos</i>, with its formidable thorns; and many
+climbing plants twine round the trunks, and among them,
+the most beautiful of all, the <i>Bignonia radicans</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the forests of Indiana the ground is covered with a
+thick undergrowth, fifteen, twenty, or thirty feet high, consisting
+chiefly of the papaw tree, the spinewood (<i>Laurus
+Benzoin</i>), and the red bud; the flowers of the two latter
+precede the leaf. Under these lower trees, shrubs cover
+<span class="opage">76</span> the ground. No pine, rhododendron, kalmia, azalea,
+magnolia, nor even the chestnut tree, are found in these
+forests; but they seem to be especially the native country
+of the beautiful catalpa tree, of which it was not known in
+what part of America it properly grew wild, and which here
+attains a considerable height and size.</p>
+
+<p>These lofty forests re-echo with the hammering of the
+numerous woodpeckers; and, during the winter, the scarlet
+cardinal (<i>Fring. cardinalis</i>) shines in the distance; and the
+titmouse (<i>Parus. bicolor</i>, and <i>Atricapillus</i>), and the nuthatch
+(<i>Sitta Carolinensis</i>), everywhere seek for insects and nuts.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of these forests would never be in want
+of an ample supply of wood for fuel and for timber, if they
+had been at all careful. The black walnut and cherry tree
+wood are the best for cabinet work; and for fuel, the hickory,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span>
+which affords more heat than beech wood. The
+price of wood, at Harmony, was one dollar for a cord;
+but the price is already rising, because the forest in the
+neighbourhood of the village is gradually cleared, and the
+carriage is more expensive.</p>
+
+<p>There are several kinds of officinal plants in the vicinity
+of Harmony; ginseng (<i>Panax</i>) grows close by the village,
+and its roots are still in request, but not so much as formerly.
+Another plant of the woods of Indiana, which is much esteemed,
+is the spurious Colombo root; likewise the peppermint,
+which grows in every part of the United States. The
+wax tree (<i>Myrica cerifera</i>), of the berries of which the green,
+fragrant tapers are made, does not grow in Indiana, but is
+found on the whole east coast, from New Jersey to Florida.
+A kind of bark, which is now much used, is that of the
+slippery elm (<i>Ulmus rubra</i>): if chewed, or softened for a
+moment in water, it dissolves into a viscous slime, and is
+found very useful in dressing wounds, as it is cooling, and
+allays the inflammation. It is said to have been applied with
+success in cholera, and is now sold, in powder, in all the
+apothecaries' shops. A teaspoonful of this bark, in boiling
+water, makes a very useful beverage, which is sweetened
+with sugar, and has the same effect as linseed. Michaux
+has given a print of this elm, and it would be desirable to
+cultivate it in our gardens.</p>
+
+<p>The country on the banks of the Wabash is as interesting
+to the zoologist as to the botanist; formerly there were great
+numbers of the bison or buffalo of the Anglo-Americans,
+the elk,<a name="FNanchor_87" id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> bear, and beaver; but they are now entirely extirpated.
+The Virginian deer is still pretty numerous, but
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span>
+is daily becoming more scarce: when Mr. Rapp first settled
+here, seventy of these deer were shot, in a day, in one of
+the Wabash islands. The wolf is still common, and seems
+to differ but little from the European, but is a different
+species from the wolf of the prairies of the Missouri; <span class="opage">77</span>
+it is said that there is a black wolf in the prairies of Illinois,
+which may, perhaps, be a distinct species. Of foxes, I saw
+only the grey, though the red fox is said to be found here.
+In the works that treat of the natural history of North America,
+there are many errors. The racoon is common in the
+forests of Harmony, and is never seen in the daytime; it
+is hunted in the night with dogs, which drive it into a tree.
+It does not sleep through the winter, for I often obtained it
+in that season. The opossum is also common, and lives
+much in the same manner as the racoon. The polecat, the
+otter, and the mink are common; the pine marten is said
+to be sometimes seen; the ermine is not rare in the prairies
+of Illinois. The marmot, or ground hog, grows to a considerable
+size, and is found in the islands of the Wabash; the
+musk-rat abounds in all the rivers. The rabbit, as it is
+called (<i>Lepus Americanus</i>), is nowhere so common as in
+Europe, yet is found in all parts of the country. Of squirrels
+there are many species.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting of the birds of this part is the wild
+turkey, which was formerly extremely numerous, and is still
+pretty common. A large cock was sold at Harmony for a
+quarter of a dollar. A young man in the neighbourhood,
+who supplied the place with this delicate game, had often
+ten or fifteen hanging about his horse at the same time.
+The pheasant or heathcock is found in these forests, but in
+no great numbers. The prairie hen is common in the prairies
+of Illinois, and comes in large flocks to the neighbourhood
+of Harmony, as soon as the cold weather and snow
+set in. Partridges abound, and so do parrots (<i>Psitt. Carolinensis</i>)
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span>
+which remain here during the winter. No other
+kind of parrot seems to bear so great a degree of cold as this.
+We often saw them flying about in the forests, feeding on
+the fruit of the plane, when Reaumur's thermometer was at
+11� below zero. In the mild climate of the Ohio and Wabash
+they remain all the year through. They are amusing
+birds in a cage, and become very tame.</p>
+
+<p>There are but few species of amphibia in the country
+about Harmony. Soft shell turtles and several kinds of
+<i>emys</i> are numerous, such as the snapping turtle (<i>E. serpentina</i>),
+likewise <i>E. geographica</i>, <i>picta</i>, <i>pulchella</i>, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>There are several lizards, but no great number of species.
+The rattle-snake is seldom seen, this country not being sufficiently
+dry and stony; the copper-head, on the contrary, is
+said not to be rare, but I cannot speak with certainty.
+The hognose-snake is very common. There are many
+kinds of adder in the Wabash that are not venomous.</p>
+
+<p>The proteus (<i>Menobranchus lateralis</i>, Harl.) of the Ohio,
+and of the great Canadian lakes, is found in the Wabash.
+The rude inhabitants have many superstitious notions and
+fables respecting several kinds of animals, especially serpents.
+Of the glass-snake (<i>Ophisaurus ventralis</i>), which
+easily breaks to pieces, they say, that when the pieces are
+placed together, they immediately unite: they affirm that
+the horn-snake, which has a horn or sting at the end of its
+tail, takes it in its mouth, and then runs along like a hoop;
+and that if it passes a tree it wounds it with its sting, which
+always makes the tree die. Mr. Thomas Say was once informed
+that a <span class="opage">78</span> planter had brought one of these snakes,
+and would prove the truth of this assertion. He sent for
+the man, and found that he had the tail of one of these snakes
+carefully wrapped up. Mr. Say asked him whether he must
+die if he pricked himself with this horn? The man answered
+"undoubtedly." Mr. Say immediately pricked himself
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span>
+with the horn and drew blood, but was not affected by it;
+and the impostor, who affirmed that he had witnessed the
+effects of the sting, excused himself by saying that he had
+been deceived by a neighbour who gave him the snake. The
+inhabitants of the country generally believe that venomous
+serpents sting both with the tongue and with the tail, that
+they fascinate other animals, an old, long since refuted fable,
+which, however, is occasionally revived in American journals,
+with other stories of a similar kind.</p>
+
+<p>There are many kinds of fish in the Wabash, on the
+whole the same as in the Ohio and the Mississippi: the
+cat-fish is said sometimes to weigh above 100 lbs. Several
+species of sturgeon and pikes are found here; the horn-fish,
+the buffalo (<i>Catastomus carpioles</i>), a large fish resembling
+the carp, &amp;c. The remarkable paddle-fish is likewise met
+with, but not frequently, nor in all the rivers. Mr. Lesueur
+has given it the name of <i>ptalyrostra</i>, and has sent several
+specimens of it to Paris. This naturalist, during his long
+residence at Harmony, has very carefully studied this branch
+of zoology. He possesses a large collection of drawings and
+descriptions of this class, and specimens, for the most part
+stuffed. He has presented many of them to the National
+Museum at Paris; and it was his intention soon to visit
+Europe, and publish his observations on this subject, which
+will form an important supplement to the great work of
+Cuvier and Valenciennes.</p>
+
+<p>The bivalve shells (<i>Unio</i>, <i>Alasmodon</i>, and <i>Anodonta</i>),
+of which there are a great many different species, some of
+them very large and beautiful, are an interesting portion of
+the natural productions of the Ohio, the Wabash, and the
+tributary streams, especially Fox River. Several American
+naturalists have written on this subject. Mr. Say, who was
+the first, states the number of species of these bivalves at
+forty-four. He would have given descriptions and drawings
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span>
+of all the species existing in this country, as well on
+land as in the rivers, in his natural history of the North
+American testacea, had not death called him from this world,
+too soon for his friends and for science. He died on the
+10th of October, 1834, soon after I had left him in good
+health on my second visit to Harmony. This part of the
+country has two species of crustacea (<i>Astacus Bartoni</i>, Bosc.),
+and (<i>Astacus affinis</i>, Say), which are here called craw-fish.
+These are the only large species of crustacea, but there are
+many smaller ones. Mr. Say, by many years' study, made
+himself fully acquainted with the insects. It is remarkable
+that the bee, which was brought to America by the Europeans,
+is now common in all the forests; the Indians are
+said to call this insect the white-man's fly. Many beautiful
+butterflies and moths adorn the woods of Indiana.</p>
+
+<p>The eminences about Harmony are of secondary formation,
+with a basis of limestone, and upon that, strata of sandstone,
+clay-slate and indurated clay. The land in the neighbourhood
+of <span class="opage">79</span> Harmony is extremely fertile. The fields
+are not manured for many successive years, and produce
+the finest crops; such land, however, in good situations, is
+no longer cheap. The climate is salubrious, and the inhabitants
+attain a great age. The winters are generally mild;
+the changes of temperature are often very great and rapid.
+The cholera has not yet visited this country. We arrived
+at the season called the Indian summer, when, with a temperature
+of +16� to 17� Reaumur, the atmosphere was
+gloomy and misty. Most persons experience, at this season,
+irregularities in the digestive organs, and head-ache. P�ppig
+gives a very accurate account of the North American
+autumn, and Mrs. Trollope felt the peculiar effect of this
+warm autumnal weather on strangers; it is, however, very
+remarkable that this state of the atmosphere in the Ohio
+Valley quickly put an end to the cholera, on which Dr.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span>
+Daniel Drake wrote an essay.<a name="FNanchor_88" id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> The weather in the wintertime
+is generally bright and clear; sometimes there are fogs,
+and hoar frost, which encrusts the trees with the most beautiful
+crystals: parhelia and aurora borealis are frequently
+seen. On the 14th of December we had a tremendous
+thunder-storm at daybreak; Reaumur's thermometer was
+at +2�; the rain, thunder, and lightning were equally violent;
+the latter covered the heavens with a sheet of fire, and
+was extremely dazzling; the thunder resembled a discharge
+of artillery. We were told that, in the preceding year, 1831,
+the weather had been exceedingly unhealthy, and the inhabitants
+even affirmed that wounds would not heal.</p>
+
+<p>Like the whole of the interior of North America, the
+country on the Wabash has still numerous traces of a very
+early extinct original population, of which even the present
+Indians have no traditions, and whose remains have been
+spoken of by many writers. Warden, in his account of the
+United States, and more particularly in the great work,
+entitled "Antiquit�s Mexicaines," has mentioned such remains
+in all the states, and collected much information on
+this subject. Here, too, in the neighbourhood of Harmony,
+there are ancient tumuli, which, externally, are exactly similar
+to those which are everywhere found in our German
+forests. Lesueur had examined many of these tumuli, and
+sent part of the articles found in them to France. Some of
+the most considerable tumuli were found on the spot, near
+the back of the village, where Rapp made his churchyard,
+and which is now planted with acacias. The bones of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span>
+Swabian peasants are here mingled with those of the aboriginal
+Indians. Lesueur dug through some of those tumuli,
+which are now much levelled, and covered with greensward,
+and found a right-angled oblong parallelogram, level at the
+bottom, formed of large flat stones, set edgewise, and likewise
+covered over with similar stones. Some decayed bones
+were found in it, of which I received a considerable number
+from Mr. Lesueur, and sent them to Mr. Blumenbach, at
+G�ttingen.<a name="FNanchor_89" id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> This mode of interment is not that of the
+present Indians, who themselves affirm that these tumuli
+were made by the whites. Most of the skulls which were
+found were without the bones of the face, and all were very
+much decayed. The race of men to which they belonged
+were not smaller than those now existing, and, consequently,
+afford no evidence of a dwarfish race, which has been
+fabulously <span class="opage">80</span> ascribed to America. Potsherds were found
+in many of the tumuli; they were made of a grey clay, and
+in general marked with stripes, or rings; it would appear
+that they had been moulded in a cloth, or basket, as they
+were marked with similar impressions, or figures. Mr. Lesueur
+has seen unbroken vessels of this kind, which were
+large, very flat, and had figured handles. Broken shells are
+frequently found intermixed with the dark grey clay of these
+vessels. In one of the tumuli was found, together with the
+human bones, the jawbones of an animal of the stag
+kind; in others, battle-axes, arrow-heads, and tobacco-pipe
+heads of clay, different in form from those now used in Indiana.</p>
+
+<p>One of these pipes was in the shape of a squatting frog,
+the mouth serving for the tobacco; some of them are represented
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span>
+in the accompanying woodcuts.<a name="FNanchor_90" id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> Some of the most
+interesting articles found in and near these graves, are the
+narrow, oblong, square pieces of flint, which those nations
+made use of instead of knives. They are from two to two
+inches and a half long, and scarcely half an inch broad;
+very thin and very sharp on all the four sides. Several of
+these knives were discovered near New Harmony, and Mr.
+Lesueur found one during my stay there. There is a very
+remarkable coincidence of these knives with the perfectly
+similar instruments of obsidian or volcanic glass, which are
+found, even now, in Mexico, some of which Mr. T. Say
+brought with him, from his journey to that country, and
+wrote a paper respecting them.<a name="FNanchor_91" id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> In the <span class="opage">81</span> forty-eighth
+plate, I have represented the two kinds of stone knives together,
+as they seem to testify the affinity of the aborigines
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span>
+of the interior of North America with those of Mexico, which
+is supported by other reasons.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo175" id="illo175"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_176a.jpg" width="486" height="185" alt="Indian pipes" />
+<p class="caption">Indian pipes</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>About fifteen miles from Harmony, lower down the Wabash,
+is a part of the bank known by the name of the Bone
+Bank, where the river has partly cut through a hill, or laid it
+bare, in which there are numbers of human bones seen imbedded
+in the bank. Mr. Lesueur sent a perfect skull from
+this spot to Blumenbach. An old tree having fallen down
+on this place, he saw under the roots an entire human skeleton;
+this, therefore, was undoubtedly a burying-place.
+While the observer deeply regrets that he is wholly without
+information respecting these remarkable remains of antiquity,
+he feels that the present white population of North America
+may justly be reproached for neglecting or destroying them.
+Nobody in Harmony was able to give any account of the
+names of the Indian tribes who inhabited the country at
+the time when this village was founded. One of the first
+settlers of the country about Mount Vernon, who had grown
+up in Kentucky among the Indians, but had removed, in
+1806, to the forests on the Lower Wabash&mdash;where at that
+time there were no white settlers&mdash;had been well acquainted
+with the Indians about Harmony, and frequently visited
+them in their huts. He was the only man who was able
+to give me any information about them. He called them
+Muskoghe Indians; this name, however, seems to be incorrect.
+They lived in this part of the country till 1810; but
+in the year preceding the battle of Tippekanoe they all removed,
+and did not return. They were not numerous, and
+lived chiefly about the mouth of the Wabash, and on the
+Big Creek.<a name="FNanchor_92" id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> They were a good-looking, robust race; wore
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span>
+a kind of apron, and had bows and arrows, in the use of which
+they were very expert. They had among them thirty or
+forty indifferent guns; they smoked Sumach leaves in wooden
+pipes,<a name="FNanchor_93" id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> the tube of which was made of cane. Their huts,
+at the mouth of the Wabash, were composed of large bundles
+of reeds, lined inside with deer-skins. Many of these Indians
+fastened their pipes to the tomahawk. Their heads
+were shorn, with the exception of a tuft at the back, like
+the Indians of the Mississippi and Lower Missouri. They
+coloured their faces with red paint. To the whites they
+were friendly, visited the first settlers in their dwellings,
+and reposed around their hearths, especially in bad weather.
+At that time there were elks and beavers, yet in no great
+numbers; but bears and wolves in abundance. My informant
+had killed many bears, and great numbers of wild turkeys.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">82</span> The early history of Indiana mentions, as the inhabitants
+of this State, when the French first settled here,
+the Kickapoos, Musquitons, Potanons, and some other
+nations, remnants of which are still to be found at the
+sources of the Wabash, as well as the Piankishaws, Miamis,
+and Viandots. In the year 1804, a treaty was concluded
+with them at Vincennes for the purchase of the lands
+between the Wabash and the Ohio, after which they emigrated.<a name="FNanchor_94" id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a>
+Some well-informed inhabitants of Harmony,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span>
+who, at the time of the Indiana emigration, when the
+United States had repeatedly bought land of those people,
+saw the several dislodged tribes pass through this country,
+assured me that the character of their physiognomy was
+often essentially different; and I myself found this confirmed
+both in North and South America; though the
+fundamental features of the American race are everywhere
+the same. All these Indians are now totally extirpated or
+expelled from Indiana, and the country enjoys the advantage
+of being peopled by the backwoodsmen.</p>
+
+<p>The fertile and salubrious country of Harmony has attracted
+a great number of settlers, who have begun to thin
+the great forests of Indiana. These settlers are usually
+called backwoodsmen, because they live in the remote forests.
+They are a robust, rough race of men, of English or
+Irish origin. They dwell very isolated, scattered in the
+forests, and but seldom come to the towns, only when business
+calls them. There is a school at Harmony where the
+children learn to read and write; two dollars are paid quarterly,
+and the children receive instruction in the morning
+and afternoon; but in the country the young people grow
+up without any education, and are, probably, no better than
+the Indians themselves. In the Western States, the sixteenth
+section of the Congress land (<i>i. e.</i>, land belonging to the
+Government) is always assigned for the benefit of the schools,
+but is not always employed according to the first intention.
+At this time there was in the state of Indiana only one
+college; it was at Blooming Town.<a name="FNanchor_95" id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> There was no clergyman
+at Harmony, and, with the exception of the meetings
+of some religious sects, the inhabitants were destitute of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>
+both religious and school instruction. Business, or festive
+occasions, bring the backwoodsmen into the town, where
+they indulge their love of whisky, which generally retards
+their return homeward. They have a good race of horses,
+and are bold horsemen; even the women are frequently
+seen on the saddle, and whole families travel in this way&mdash;man,
+woman, and child ofttimes mounted on the same beast.
+There is nothing characteristic in their costume, like the
+original dresses which are met with in the country in Germany;
+but they wear a medley, and bad imitation of all
+the fashions of English towns; caps, felt and straw hats,
+frocks, great-coats, plaids, &amp;c. The women, too, endeavour
+to imitate the fashions of the towns, wear large hats with
+loose veils, and gaudy plaid mantles, which, altogether, have
+often a most ludicrous effect in these remote forests. The
+winter dress of the men is often not ill chosen, though perfectly
+novel to a stranger. At that season they wear great-coats
+made of the common woollen horsecloths, white or
+green, with gay stripes on the collar, cuffs, and pockets; <span class="opage">83</span>
+nay, some are striped all over like zebras: such a coat, of
+the commonest kind, cannot be had here for less than eight
+or ten dollars. Noisy parties of these people frequently
+assemble at the public-houses of Harmony, gather round the
+fire, and let the whisky circulate briskly, while their horses
+are frequently left the whole day, standing in the street, amid
+rain and snow. On Sunday, which is kept by many of the
+inhabitants, though there is no divine service, they are more
+decently clad, wash their faces, and make some attempt at
+putting their hair in order, which hangs dishevelled about
+their faces. The young men often went to the chase, others
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>
+played in the streets, generally at ball, but a great number
+remained at their work, and the peasants and farmers, with
+their huge wagons, followed their usual occupations. On
+certain days, especially when a magistrate, a president, or
+a governor was to be chosen, all were gathered together,
+for they all take great interest in the government of the
+country, and would not, on any account, renounce the
+privilege which, in their estimation, makes them important
+statesmen. On such election days, whole troops of them
+ride into the town; the streets are crowded with their horses,
+which are tied up, and the whisky-shops resound with their
+tumultuous discussions. Every man gives his vote; disputes
+arise; and, as in the Polish diets, their excited passions frequently
+lead to blows. They are all great politicians, and
+some of them are well acquainted with the newspapers. In
+the winter, as soon as snow fell, sledge parties commenced
+at Harmony. Six or eight persons were on separate
+seats, two and two together, upon one sledge; others amused
+themselves with skating, for which, however, they had not
+much opportunity in the winter of 1832-3. There were
+frequent balls at the inns; on New Year's Eve they literally
+danced the whole night through.</p>
+
+<p>Agriculture is still in its infancy about New Harmony,
+and the people depend on the extraordinary fertility of the
+soil. In the immediate vicinity of the town land is not
+cheap, having already risen to fifteen dollars per acre;
+whereas, at the distance of two miles, there was still a considerable
+quantity of Congress land, which might be had at
+one dollar per acre. There was a tax of fifty cents, or half a
+dollar,<a name="FNanchor_96" id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> on every quarter of a square mile of land. What is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span>
+called Congress land, is frequently taken possession of, for
+a time, by new comers, who have no right to it. They fell
+the wood, erect their huts, and nobody hinders them in their
+proceedings till the lawful owner ejects them, who has purchased
+the land of the Government. A square mile of <span class="opage">84</span>
+Congress land was still to be had for 100 dollars; but these
+lands are subject to the periodical inundations of the Wabash,
+when the farmers are obliged to fly with all their effects
+to more elevated stations. They have then to look for their
+cattle in the great forests, and drive them away; but they
+cannot always find all the animals, many of which perish.
+The fertility of the soil is increased by these inundations.
+Congress land which was not exposed to inundation, could be
+bought for one dollar twenty-five cents per acre. This high
+water is said often to present an interesting scene. Hogs
+and other animals, even the opossum, have been found on
+low trees, where they had sought protection.</p>
+
+<p>The chief vegetable production of this part of the country
+is maize, which grows to the height of twelve or thirteen
+feet; the ears are very large and heavy; I found some
+weighing fourteen to fifteen ounces, and nearly three inches
+in diameter, in which I counted above 1,000 grains. They
+ripen in September, October, November, and December,
+and are often left standing through the winter, till wanted
+for use. There are fifteen varieties of this important plant;
+one kind, called sweet corn, is particularly good when roasted
+in an unripe state. It is calculated that the best soil will
+yield 100 bushels of corn per acre. Very good cakes and
+bread are prepared of maize flour, and there are many other
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span>
+ways of dressing it. When boiled with milk it is called mush.
+All living creatures in this country subsist, almost exclusively,
+on this invaluable production. When the whites arrived
+in America numerous Indian tribes subsisted on it; quadrupeds,
+birds, nay, even fish, are fond of it. At the places
+where the flat boats, laden with maize, land, the fish collect
+and assemble in great numbers, and fall an easy prey to the
+fishermen. At this time the corn was sold at six and a half
+cents per bushel at Harmony; whereas, on the frontiers of
+Canada, two dollars were paid for it. Living is, consequently,
+very cheap on the banks of the Wabash. The maize is
+brought to market in large wagons, drawn by four oxen,
+and a considerable quantity is thence sent by water carriage.
+Other kinds of grain&mdash;wheat, rye, barley, and oats&mdash;which
+ripen in June, are likewise cultivated. Barley is grown for
+the brewers; and oats, in considerable quantities, for the
+horses. Potatoes, too, are extensively cultivated, but they
+are by no means so good and mealy as in Germany. There
+is a great variety of culinary vegetables. There are abundance
+of apples, but not many pears, which do not thrive;
+peaches are good, and very productive; quantities fall to the
+ground, where they are consumed by the hogs; plums and
+cherries are rarely grown; the latter are not so good as in
+Europe, but very fruitful. The vine was formerly cultivated,
+but it is now quite neglected. According to Warden, cotton
+is grown at Vincennes, Princetown, and Harmony, but this
+does not seem to be the case at present. This plant does not
+thrive beyond the 31st degree of latitude. The inhabitants
+grow hemp and flax for their own consumption, and some
+tobacco; bad cigars are made at Harmony, and, in general,
+good tobacco is rarely to be met with in the United States.
+Maple sugar is manufactured in great abundance in Indiana.
+Warden says that, in 1810, 50,000 lbs. <span class="opage">85</span> were made in
+this State, and, at present, it was worth seven or eight cents
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span>
+a pound. Many of the inhabitants obtain, in the spring,
+about 100 lbs. of this sugar. In this part of the country the
+corn is not thrashed, but generally trodden out by horses;
+a very imperfect process, which appears to have originated
+in the times of the ancient Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans.</p>
+
+<p>Next to agriculture the breeding of cattle is an important
+object among the backwoodsmen; but is likewise ill understood.
+The breed of swine furnishes the principal supply
+for food and exportation, great quantities of pork being sent
+to New Orleans. Mr. Owen had established a whisky distillery,
+and fattened the swine on the refuse. About 1,500
+barrels of whisky, worth ten dollars a barrel, were made
+every year in Mr. Owen's distillery. Great numbers of
+swine are in the woods of Indiana, far from all human dwellings,
+where they grow very fat by the abundance of oak and
+beech mast. They are of a reddish brown colour, with round
+black spots; there are some quite wild, which anybody is
+at liberty to shoot. These animals are never housed, even
+in the vicinity of Harmony. We observed them, in our
+excursions, in the depth of winter, when the young ones often
+perish with cold; and we also saw them eaten by the mothers.
+Dead swine were lying about in all directions, partly devoured
+by others. The negligence and want of feeling with
+which the animals are treated, are very great; and, accordingly,
+the breed of cattle can never flourish. The cattle,
+which are very fine, are kept in the open air day and night,
+amidst ice and snow, with which their backs are covered; the
+same may be said of the horses; nay, in cold moonlight
+nights, we saw these animals standing in the street, near
+their master's dwelling, as if they hoped to be let in. The
+animals are generally fed in the morning with maize, and a
+woman usually appears at an early hour, in her plaid, to
+milk the cows.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle of this country are large and handsome, very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span>
+hardy, and do not differ in figure or colour from those of
+Germany; no food is given them in winter but the dry leaves
+of maize. No clover or other forage is cultivated, so that
+the cattle and horses are confined to straw, the bark of trees,
+and the green reed, miegia, which forms a thick underwood
+in the forests on the Wabash. Everywhere one sees the
+bark and twigs gnawed, and even the fruit trees are often
+damaged in this manner. Horses and cattle frequently starve
+to death in the winter. I was told that the animals gnaw,
+in preference, the nettle-tree (<i>Celtis occidentalis</i>), the hack-berry
+(<i>Celtis crassifolia</i>), and the sugar maple. It is remarkable
+that the swine, which otherwise refuse no species
+of fruit, will not touch that of the papaw tree (<i>Asimina</i>).
+All the beef in this country is of a bad quality, because, as
+I have said, no forage is cultivated. In Pennsylvania it is
+quite the reverse; there a great deal of clover is grown, and
+the beef is, consequently, good. In Indiana pork is said to
+be much better and easier of digestion than to the east of the
+Alleghanys. We saw but few sheep, and no goats, at Harmony.
+There were plenty of geese and domestic fowls, but
+only a few tame ducks.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of tilling the ground for the different kinds of
+grain, has been described by <span class="opage">86</span> many travellers; I will
+therefore merely observe that the plough is different in its
+construction from that used in Germany, and that the oxen
+are attached to it by a very peculiar yoke, which consists
+of a long, thick, crooked piece of wood, which is laid horizontally
+over the necks of the two oxen, with two bows
+underneath, through which the heads of the animals are
+put.<a name="FNanchor_97" id="FNanchor_97" href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo175b" id="illo175b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_176b.jpg" width="476" height="348" alt="Neck-yoke and plow" />
+<p class="caption">Neck-yoke and plow</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>My stay at New Harmony, which was at first intended to
+be only for a few days, was prolonged by serious indisposition,
+nearly resembling cholera, to a four months' winter residence.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span>
+At any other place in this country I should have
+extremely regretted such a loss of time, but here I derived
+much instruction and entertainment from my intercourse
+with two highly-informed men, Mr. Thomas Say and Mr.
+Lesueur, who, during my two months' illness, gave me constant
+proofs of kindness, and endeavoured to make our time
+pass agreeably and usefully. I received also much kindness
+from other estimable families, Messrs. Owen (who were
+educated by Fellenberg, in Switzerland), Mr. Maclure and
+his sister, and Mr. Twigg. My walks and hunting excursions
+with the two naturalists were very instructive. Mr.
+Say's house was in a garden, where he cultivated many
+interesting plants of the interior of Western America. I
+there saw a large <i>Maclura aurantiaca</i> (Nuttall), the bow or
+yellow wood, or Osage orange, from the river Arkansas, of
+the wood of which many Indian tribes make their bows.
+It is a prickly tree, with very tough wood. There was one
+at St. Louis, in the garden of Mr. Pierre Chouteau, which
+did not, however, flourish.<a name="FNanchor_98" id="FNanchor_98" href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> Dr. Pitcher had the kindness
+to give me some of the seeds of this tree, <span class="opage">87</span> which, however,
+have not succeeded. In Mr. Say's garden I likewise saw
+<i>Euphorbia marginata</i>, from Arkansas, several beautiful <i>phlox</i>;
+and the <i>Lonicera sempervirens</i> was laden with its ripe fruit.
+The <i>Euphorbia marginata</i> flourishes exceedingly well at
+Bonn, where it was raised from seeds which I brought.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Say's zoological collection was confined to insects
+and shells. He was less anxious to possess a complete collection
+than to have a good library, which, thanks to Mr.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span>
+Maclure, he really possessed, and new insects and shells
+were sent to him from all parts of the United States, which
+he immediately described. He had a very extensive correspondence,
+even with Europe, and received many conchylia,
+which he used and compared for his work on American conchology.
+This work was entirely got up here in Harmony,
+for Mrs. Say drew and coloured the figures very faithfully
+after nature, which were engraved by an artist, engaged by
+Mr. Maclure; the text also was printed there. Mr. Say's
+entomological collection was continually damaged by the
+rapacious insects, which are much more dangerous and
+destructive here than in Europe. The most fatal to the
+zoological collections, in this country, besides the common
+European moth (<i>Phal�na sarcitella</i>), are the <i>Dermestes lardarius</i>,
+<i>Anthrinus muscorum</i>, <i>Dermestes vulpinus</i>, <i>Necrobia
+violetia</i>, <i>Acarus destructor</i>, and several others, among which
+there are some brought from Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Lesueur's labours were chiefly in the higher orders
+of the animal kingdom; he had explored the country in
+many directions, was acquainted with everything remarkable,
+collected and prepared all interesting objects, and had
+already sent considerable collections to France. He was
+a skilful draughtsman, and his portfolios of drawings, made
+during his voyage round the world, and in his residence
+in America, afforded us much gratification during the winter.
+He had paid great attention to the fishes of the Wabash,
+Ohio, and Mississippi, for which his frequent visits to New
+Orleans had given him the best opportunity. His friend
+Barrabino, who died prematurely in that city, and took
+much interest in the sciences, had been of great assistance to
+him. It would be a pity if the interesting labours of Mr.
+Lesueur, in natural history, were not communicated to the
+learned world during his lifetime.</p>
+
+<p>I shall always retain a most pleasing recollection of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span>
+excursions which we made in the neighbourhood of Harmony,
+with Mr. Say, and to greater distances, with Mr. Lesueur.
+One of the most agreeable was when we sailed down
+the Wabash, and landed on its wooded islands. Immediately
+on the west of the river, is Fox Island, a large thickly wooded
+tract, between the Wabash and Fox River.<a name="FNanchor_99" id="FNanchor_99" href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> We generally
+left Harmony by water, in bright, sunny weather. The Wabash
+divides into several arms, forming beautiful romantic
+islands, covered with tall forests, partly surrounded by quantities
+of drift wood. The water of the river is clear and
+dark green, and the bottom, which is plainly seen, is covered
+with large bivalve shells (<i>Unio</i>), as well as with several kinds
+of snails. High trees uniformly clothe the shore, and colossal,
+wide-spreading planes rise above the dense forests. In
+some places there are sand-banks, where shells are <span class="opage">88</span> found
+in abundance, and where the track of the racoon and the
+mink, which come here in the night to seek their food, are
+imprinted in all directions on the wet ground. Under the
+old roots of trees on the bank, which is from ten to twenty
+feet high, we saw the burrows of the minks, into which it
+had taken a quantity of shells. The common people here
+think that this is done by the musk-rat, which is certainly
+a mistake. The musk-rat lives on vegetables, and it is only
+the small beasts of prey that live on shell-fish. There were
+various species of ducks, which rose in flocks before us, and
+flew rapidly to the undisturbed parts of the banks. Besides
+the common wild duck, which was the most numerous, there
+were the beautiful wood duck, the blue-winged teal, and
+the pintail duck, or sea-pheasant. After proceeding about
+three quarters of an hour, we usually landed on Fox Island,
+on the right bank, fastened our boat to the trunk of a large
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span>
+fallen tree, and then went up the steep bank into a thick,
+lofty forest, where the high reeds were intersected with small,
+narrow paths, made by the horses and cattle of the neighbouring
+farmers. From our several landing places, we had
+to proceed only about 100 steps across the island to the Fox
+River, which runs here, for a pretty considerable distance,
+parallel to the Wabash, and joins it below Fox Island.<a name="FNanchor_100" id="FNanchor_100" href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a>
+The stream is highly picturesque, with romantic banks,
+large uprooted trees, colossal planes, magnificent oaks, hickory,
+shellbark hickory, &amp;c. Here grows the lofty <i>gymnocladus</i>,
+with its large, broad pods, and the beautiful catalpa.
+<i>Bignonia radicans</i> and <i>cruciata</i> wind round the trunks, as
+well as thick, clustering vines (<i>Hedera quinquefolia</i>) and the
+poison vine. Vast quantities of fallen trees lay in the water,
+and, when it was low, often formed a kind of bridge. The
+trunks of the plane are very remarkable; they are often so
+thick that five or six men cannot span them. When of this
+size they are generally hollow. These trees are suffered to
+grow so old, because they yield but indifferent timber.
+Twenty or thirty feet from the ground, the trunk usually
+divides into several thick branches, which rise to a very
+great height; they have a bark of dazzling whiteness, which
+forms a singular contrast with the brown forests, when leafless
+and bare in winter. This tree never attains such a
+thickness and height in Europe, and hence the white colour
+of the branches is wanting. The quiet, lonely Fox River
+is covered, during the whole day, with numerous ducks.
+Whenever we approached cautiously through the reeds, and
+over the dry leaves, scattered on the ground, we could immediately
+fire at them. The kingfisher (<i>Alcedo alcyon</i>), is constantly
+seen here, and many species of birds, particularly
+the blue-crested roller (<i>Garrulus cristatus</i>), came to the water
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span>
+to drink. Unluckily we had no European hounds, which
+would have been of great service to us, and thus, from want
+of them, we often lost the ducks we had shot. The turkey
+buzzards were seen hovering in the air, and, after wet weather,
+were often observed sitting in the sunshine, with outspread
+wings, on the highest trees. If we shot a bird, and did not
+immediately pick it up, it was sure to be devoured by these
+ravenous creatures. If the buzzards were driven away, the
+cunning crows supplied their place. The whole air was soon
+filled with these buzzards, hovering round and round, <span class="opage">89</span>
+while numbers of others sat together on the high trees. If
+we shot at them when flying, they immediately vomited;
+this I likewise observed in Brazil. We found here some
+heads of the paddle-fish, which lives in the stream. If we
+left the banks of the rivers, and advanced far into the forests,
+we had often to clamber over fallen trunks of trees, covered
+with moss, and to penetrate through matted reeds, where
+we heard the voice of the grey squirrel, and the hammering
+of the numerous woodpeckers. Among the entangled climbing
+plants, we often saw, throughout the whole winter, the
+beautiful cardinal, or red-bird; finches of various kinds;
+and on the decayed trees, on the ground, some kinds of
+<i>Troglodytes</i>. Towards the end of autumn, and early in
+warm days in February, nay, even in December and January,
+we often saw in Fox River, on stones, and old submersed
+trunks of trees, large tortoises basking in the sun, which we
+sometimes shot at with our fowling-pieces, but we seldom
+got them. They are very shy, and plunge into the water
+as soon as any one approaches.</p>
+
+<p>Towards noon the scattered sportsmen usually re-assembled,
+with their booty, round a cheerful fire, under ancient
+plane trees, on the bank of Fox River. Our frugal repast,
+which we had brought with us, was seasoned by the exercise
+in the open air, in the fine forests of Indiana and Illinois.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>
+Tortoises, shell-fish, birds, &amp;c., were deposited in our boat.
+Mr. Lesueur frequently accompanied us in these excursions.
+Once, on the 7th of March, he found, on Fox Island, a
+couple of marmots above ground, one of which ran into its
+burrow, while the other sought refuge on a low tree, where,
+however, it was shot. We then dug for the other, in hopes
+of finding it, but the burrow went so far and deep into the
+ground, that we were forced to give it up. This circumstance
+may serve as a proof that the animals which sleep
+throughout the winter make their appearance about this time.</p>
+
+<p>In our excursions we often visited some others of the numerous
+islands in the Wabash, being particularly attracted
+thither by the loud cries of the wild turkey; their voice is
+exactly similar to that of the European turkey. We could
+hear them scratching among the dry leaves on the ground,
+in search of food. If we surprised them, they were generally
+too far off for our fowling-pieces, loaded with small shot,
+for they ran away with extraordinary rapidity. Turkey
+Island seemed to be a favourite place of resort. At the
+upper end of the island drifted wood was frequently piled
+up to such a height, that it was difficult to clamber over it,
+and among this wood there were generally many otters.
+Here we often found wild turkeys, and even the Virginian
+deer; and it is really a fine sight to see a flock of these wild
+turkeys fly across the river, or a swarm of wild geese, with
+loud screams, swim down the stream. The grey eagle was
+often seen sitting on the lofty plane trees, on the bank; and
+the white-headed eagle hovered in the air, at a great height.</p>
+
+<p>On another hunting excursion, up the Wabash, we proceeded
+as far as Black River,<a name="FNanchor_101" id="FNanchor_101" href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> a stream which falls into the
+Wabash, three miles from Harmony. On the 5th of January,
+at eight <span class="opage">90</span> o'clock in the morning, the mercury in
+Reaumur's thermometer was twelve and a half degrees above
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span>
+freezing point, and the fish leaped above the surface of the
+water as in summer. Near some small log-houses the people
+were employed in felling the high trees, and our boatmen
+observed that those new settlers had taken possession of this
+Congress land without any right to do so. Such irregularities
+are very frequent here; thus, for instance, they cut down
+large trees on Mr. Maclure's property for making their flat
+boats, and yet nobody calls them to account. These are
+the backwoodsmen of Illinois and Indiana. On the high
+banks of the river we observed in the forest a mink-trap.
+It nearly resembles, in miniature, the great bear-trap; is
+covered on all sides with brushwood, so that the animal can
+enter only at a certain place. The Black River, which, in
+some parts, is wide and expanded, was now rather narrow
+and shallow, the water of a pure green colour. The bottom
+consists chiefly of sand or clay; it is contracted at the mouth,
+where a quantity of sand has accumulated, and where poplars
+and lofty planes grow; colossal vines wound round their
+trunks, of which we cut off one that was very thick, as a
+specimen. While our boatmen were engaged in this work,
+and in looking for shell-fish, we advanced several miles up
+the stream, where we met with frequent obstacles in the forest.
+The large dry leaves of the planes made such a rustling,
+that we could seldom get near the ducks, numbers of which
+were swimming on the stream. I collected on the bank the
+beautiful orange-coloured seeds of the <i>Celastrus scandens</i>,
+and several others. We generally returned home with ducks
+and other birds, but we were unsuccessful in our chase of
+the wild turkeys, of which we sometimes saw whole flocks
+fly across the Wabash. Many an hour we passed in these
+forests, watching for ducks and birds of prey; where, while
+we stood concealed in a hollow plane, the small birds sometimes
+flew almost into the face of the sportsman, or settled
+on his gun.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In order to explore the forests of Harmony, in the southern
+direction, Mr. Say took me to a neighbouring estate of Mr.
+Maclure, on Rush Creek, through a romantic, lofty forest,
+where very fine tulip trees, with thick and high trunks, as
+straight as a ship's mast, and very rough bark, were growing.
+This tall, splendid tree bears its fine large flowers only at the
+very summit. The wood is of a greenish pale yellow colour,
+and is used by cabinet makers. The red-headed woodpecker
+was almost the only bird that was seen here. The whole
+track consists of steep hills, separated by small valleys,
+on which we particularly observed the ancient tumuli of the
+aboriginal inhabitants of these forests. Passing through a
+valley we came to Rush Creek, which we crossed by a very
+ruinous bridge of branches of trees, to the opposite bank,
+where <i>Hydrangea arborescens</i> grew. Several species of maple
+grow here, which have certainly not been properly distinguished
+and classed. Their trunks, covered with rough
+bark, are often not to be spanned by three men, and they
+grow perfectly straight. Near the junction of the Rush
+Creek and the Wabash, we came to the small log-house of
+a tenant of Mr. Maclure, where the woman was engaged
+in domestic employments, while the children were picking
+bones, probably <span class="opage">91</span> of wild turkeys, with which they ate
+maize bread. In front of the house lay large blocks of
+catalpa wood, which, when fresh cut, is of a brownish
+yellow colour, and emits a peculiar smell. We were told
+of a stream in the neighbourhood, the water of which was
+said to have killed many persons. We visited this dangerous
+water, which is very cold, but does not appear to have
+any peculiar ingredients. One of our party, who had often
+drunk of it, without injury, affirmed that those men had not
+been killed by the water, but by whisky; probably, however,
+death was caused by drinking this excessively cold
+water when they were overheated.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In a dense forest, some miles to the north-west of Harmony,
+was a narrow pond, or, rather, long, broad ditch,
+called Long Pond, which, at certain seasons of the year, is
+connected with Fox River, to which we sometimes made excursions.
+Beyond the Wabash, in this direction, the forest
+has a sandy soil, which, however, is soon succeeded by a
+rich clay. A man well acquainted with the country was
+our conductor; we were obliged to force our way through
+the closely-matted reeds, where there was no path, and our
+clothes were completely torn by them. On all sides we heard
+the bells of the oxen and horses, and our guide easily found
+his own beasts, which knew his voice. He had wished me
+to take a compass, which was not done, and we, in fact,
+twice lost our way, in consequence; for it is not easy to discover
+one's latitude in such thick, bewildering reed forests.
+Woodpeckers and squirrels were the usual fruits of our excursions
+in this wilderness. After passing a couple of isolated
+habitations, we came to a hollow in the forest, about a mile
+long, and full of water. This was the Long Pond, in which
+many varieties of water plants were growing.</p>
+
+<p>Our guide had taken a hatchet and a basket, in order to
+dig up the roots of a yellow-flowering <i>Nymph�a</i>,<a name="FNanchor_102" id="FNanchor_102" href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> which
+was growing in luxuriance, and which he intended to employ
+as a poultice to a swelled face. The surface of the
+water was covered with an elegant plant, <i>Azolla Caroliniana</i>
+(Wild), which formed mossy verdant spots, and is here found
+on all standing water. The cardinal and the blue-crested
+roller frequented this place; and near a field of maize, in
+the forest, I saw large flocks of parrots, of which we often
+shot many with great ease. They were not shy, and soon
+re-assembled after our shot had dispersed them. Their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>
+manner and note much resembled those of the long-tailed
+paroquet of Brazil.<a name="FNanchor_103" id="FNanchor_103" href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> With a shrill cry they flew rapidly
+from tree to tree, when their beautiful bright green colour
+was seen to great advantage. Mr. Bodmer has given a very
+faithful representation of one of these flocks.<a name="FNanchor_104" id="FNanchor_104" href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> They eat
+the fruit of the planes; and if we did not disturb them, they
+sat in a row, close together, to warm themselves in the faint
+beams of the January sun. We sometimes found a great
+number of turkey buzzards collected about the carcass of a
+dead animal; some sitting crowded on the high trees, others
+hovering in the air; but it was not easy to get at them. We
+occasionally met with horses, which, in these <span class="opage">92</span> wildernesses,
+familiarly approach those who happen to pass, in
+the hope of receiving salt from them. On our return home
+we were often gratified with the view of a splendid fiery
+evening sky on the Wabash; the lofty crowns of the forest
+trees appeared to burn, while the snow-white stems of the
+tall planes assumed a roseate tint, and reflected their beauty
+in the smooth surface of the water.</p>
+
+<p>The winter which we passed at Harmony was, on the
+whole, mild. Woodpeckers, pigeons, thrushes, the great
+lark, the cardinal, the blue-bird, and many others, were seen
+in the orchards during the whole winter. The coveys of
+partridges lay in the fields of maize, or the thorn hedges,
+sheltered and protected from the cold. There were often
+very warm days in the middle of winter. On such a day,
+the 31st of January, I found, at noon, the thermometer
+being +5� R., at the foot of a thick plane tree, a great
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span>
+number of the red and black spotted lady-bird, which were
+half frozen. Tortoises were seen, on warm days, during
+the whole winter. In the middle of February, a great number
+of the white maple, called also the soft or swamp maple,
+were in blossom in the forests; and, towards the end of that
+month, the song of many birds resounded through the woods
+and orchards. Flights of cranes passed over. The <i>Arabis
+bulbosa</i> (M�hlenb.) blossomed, as well as the hazel, yet
+there were still some cold days. The Americans have a
+proverb&mdash;"When winter comes in like a lion, it goes out
+like a lamb," and <i>vice versa</i>. This winter, however, the cold
+had not set in early. At the beginning of March we had frost.
+On the 2nd of March, at eight in the morning, Reaumur's
+thermometer was at &ndash;16�; and at twelve o'clock at noon, &ndash;9�.
+Small pieces of water were frozen over; the ducks,
+especially the pintail ducks, which were now constantly
+disturbed in the Wabash, by the navigation and by the sportsman,
+sought for small pieces of open water; and when they
+were driven from these, repaired to the woods or the maize
+fields. The blackbird and the robin sought their scanty
+food on the banks of the brooks. Many species of animals
+were, however, in motion at the beginning of March. Numbers
+of tortoises appeared; the note of the owl was heard
+in the forests, even in the daytime; the wood-snipe fluttered
+about, and the young leaves of the <i>sambucus</i>, and the flowers
+of the <i>corylus</i>, gave an enlivening appearance to the forest.
+The voice of the turtle-dove was heard as early as the 8th
+of February; insects buzzed about; flocks of migratory
+pigeons flew towards the north and east; and on the 9th,
+the first steam-boat went up the Wabash.</p>
+
+<p>We had satisfactory accounts of the sanitary state of the
+southern and western parts of the United States. At Cincinnati
+the violence of the cholera had abated at the commencement
+of the Indian summer; on the Ohio it had generally
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span>
+ceased; and St. Louis, by the latest reports, was
+perfectly healthy. Mr. Bodmer, who had made an excursion
+to New Orleans, in December and January, found the
+cholera still there, but it had greatly abated; and I therefore
+resolved to make preparations for proceeding on our journey,
+as soon as our collections were packed up and sent off.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER IX</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY FROM NEW HARMONY TO ST. LOUIS ON THE MISSISSIPPI,
+AND OUR STAY THERE, FROM MARCH 16TH TO APRIL 9TH, 1833</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Mount Vernon&mdash;Mouth of the Wabash&mdash;Shawneetown&mdash;Battery
+Rock&mdash;Cave-in-Rock&mdash;Cumberland River&mdash;Tenessee River&mdash;Mouth
+of the Ohio&mdash;Cape Girardeau&mdash;Grand Tower&mdash;St. Genevieve&mdash;Merrimack
+River&mdash;Vide Poche&mdash;Kahokia&mdash;St. Louis&mdash;Sac
+and Fox Indians&mdash;Meeting of the Black Hawk with his Countrymen
+at Jefferson Barracks&mdash;The American Fur Company&mdash;Preparations
+for the Journey up the Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>After taking leave of our friends at Harmony, who, during
+a residence of four months, had given us unvarying
+proofs of kindness and hospitality, we set out on horseback
+early in the morning of the 16th of March, leaving our baggage
+to be conveyed by the Ohio. The day was fine, and,
+rejoicing in the warm spring sun, we reached the hills that
+bounded the valley of the Wabash. We were immediately
+surrounded by lofty forests, and cast a farewell look on the
+cheerful country which had so long sheltered us. Perched
+on the top of the maple, oak, and tulip tree, the robin poured
+forth his morning song. The turtle-dove was cooing with
+her sweet low moan, and the shrill voice and hammering
+of the woodpeckers resounded on every side. In Europe
+the soft note of the turtle is not heard till spring is more advanced,
+and the trees are clothed with verdure. Many
+trees were covered with buds; those of the dog-wood were
+particularly forward, the beautiful white flowers of which
+appear before the leaves; this is the case with many of the
+trees of this country. We passed Rush Creek, on the eminences
+near which grow many sugar-maple trees, the juice
+of which was tapped, and had in some of them already
+ceased to flow. At the lower part of all the trunks, we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>
+found small tubes of elder inserted, from which the insipid
+sweetish juice ran into the troughs placed below them. It
+is said to flow in great abundance, when hot spring days
+are succeeded by cold frosty nights. We soon reached what
+is called a sugar camp in the forest; it is a hut, in the floor
+of which four kettles are fixed for boiling the juice. This <span class="opage">94</span>
+hut contains likewise large troughs, in which the juice from
+the smaller, placed at the trees, is collected. Such a hut,
+with the maples growing around it, is called a sugar camp,
+and the quantity of sugar produced depends on the number
+of maples in the vicinity. Many camps furnish in one
+spring 300, 500, or even 1000 lbs. of sugar, which is crystallized
+in loaves. It is brown, but very sweet, and has no
+disagreeable flavour. We refreshed ourselves with the juice
+in the small troughs, which our horses drank greedily.</p>
+
+<p>The people in the isolated dwellings in the forest were
+partly engaged in burning the timber. Many of the small
+wooden houses of these peasants were without windows;
+glass windows are quite a luxury, and the only light enjoyed
+in the daytime is admitted by the open door. We saw in
+all these dwellings, very wide, large beds. We crossed the
+Big Creek, a considerable stream, with rising banks, by a
+wooden bridge; here we saw many piles of oak bark, which
+is sold to the tanneries. At noon, the weather being excessively
+hot, we reached Mount Vernon, on the Ohio.</p>
+
+<p>In this little scattered place, with about 600 inhabitants,
+among whom there are five medical men, about one third
+of the buildings are of brick; the town-hall stands in an
+open square. The Ohio, which we immediately visited,
+had now a much more striking appearance than at our first
+visit in the autumn. It is considerably broader than the
+Rhine, and it is said that it often rises thirty feet higher&mdash;up
+to the very thresholds of the buildings standing on the
+bank. The view both up and down the river was beautiful.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>
+The immediate environs of Mount Vernon consist of damp
+marshy forests; hence the water is very bad, and the inhabitants
+prefer even that of the Ohio. The temperature at
+noon was now very warm; 14� Reaumur.</p>
+
+<p>We were obliged to wait a couple of days in this little
+town for a steam-boat, to go down the river. The rushing
+noise of the steamers often called us to the river, but they
+were mostly going up, and disappeared at Diamond Island.
+At last, on the 18th of March, about ten in the morning,
+two steam-boats appeared, of which the largest, the Napoleon,
+did not stop; while the smaller one, the Conveyance,
+took us in.<a name="FNanchor_105" id="FNanchor_105" href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> We proceeded rapidly, reached before noon
+Wabash Island, near the mouth of that river, and after
+dinner landed at Shawneetown.</p>
+
+<p>Shawneetown or Shawaneetown is a hamlet lying along
+the banks of the river, and containing from 600 to 700 inhabitants.
+The best buildings are some inns, shops, and
+the post-office. The tribe of the Shawnee Indians formerly
+dwelt in this country, and were succeeded by some Delawares,
+who have been long since expelled or extirpated.
+Arrow-heads of flint, as well as the bones, &amp;c., of these
+people, are frequently found in the neighbourhood. The
+Shawnees were said to have previously dwelt on the Savaney
+River, on the coast of Florida, and afterwards lived for
+about sixty-five years in the state of Ohio. They consisted,
+according to Dr. Morse, of four tribes:&mdash;1. The Piqua;
+2. The Maguachake; 3. The Kiskopokoke, to which the
+celebrated prophet, Elsquataway, and his distinguished
+brother, Tecumseh, belonged. They were very warlike.
+In <span class="opage">95</span> 1806 they settled near Greenville, in the State of
+Ohio, and their subsequent history is well known. They
+afterwards went to the country about Tippecanoe. 4. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span>
+Chillicothes, who live in the vicinity of the town of that
+name; these, and further accounts of these people, are to
+be found in Dr. Morse, and other writers.<a name="FNanchor_106" id="FNanchor_106" href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a></p>
+
+<p>Twelve miles inland from Shawneetown are the celebrated
+salt works on Saline River,<a name="FNanchor_107" id="FNanchor_107" href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> near Equality; much salt is
+annually manufactured there, and sent to Shawneetown,
+on the Ohio, where it is embarked. Here, as at Mount
+Vernon, the environs of the place consist of damp forests,
+with many marshes, from which noxious exhalations arise.
+The weather was chilly, windy, and rainy, especially towards
+evening, so that a fire was very welcome. Coals are found
+about seven miles from the town, and seem to be of a good
+kind. There were many negroes in Shawneetown; whereas,
+in Harmony and Mount Vernon, there were only two or
+three families of that race.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 19th, the weather being warm,
+and the sky clouded, we embarked in the Paragon steamboat.<a name="FNanchor_108" id="FNanchor_108" href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a>
+The fine broad river shone brightly; on the banks
+the summits of the forest formed an even line parallel to
+the shore, as even as if they had been cut, the snow-white
+stems of the planes glistening among the sombre mass. The
+kingfisher, the wild duck, and red-breasted goose, were numerous
+in the wild, romantic willow islands. The banks
+of the Ohio now began to be higher; the rocks are of limestone,
+which forms, in many parts of the forests, romantic
+masses of rock, partly yellow, partly of a grey colour. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span>
+river was at this time nearly of the same colour as the Rhine,
+when clear. After passing the mouth of the Saline River,
+we reached, on the right, or Illinois bank, the long flat bank
+of rocks known by the name of Battery Rock.<a name="FNanchor_109" id="FNanchor_109" href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> This wall
+of rock, at the lower part of the bank, is marked with horizontal
+strata, or stripes, from sixty to eighty feet high, covered
+with whitish or bluish green and bright green lichens
+and mosses, rent by several ravines, and crowned with woods,
+and a small house or cottage on the very summit. From
+this place we saw, on the rocky banks, some red cedars
+here and there, from twenty to thirty feet in height. I observe,
+for the botanist, that this tree is not found except
+where the bank consists of rocks. After passing Cave-in-Rock
+Island, a long, wooded island, we glided past Cave-in-Rock,<a name="FNanchor_110" id="FNanchor_110" href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a>
+a cavern which traverses from side to side a steep
+rock in Illinois, and has been drawn by Lesueur. The rocky
+wall, in which this well-known opening is situated, is marked
+with regular, narrow, yellowish grey or reddish strata of
+limestone, and is crowned with cedars and other trees. It
+is twenty-five miles below Shawneetown. Calcareous petrifactions,
+or rather impressions, are very numerous. Above
+the larger mouth of the cavern, towards the Ohio, is a smaller
+chamber, which is said to have formerly been the retreat
+of banditti and coiners. The rock is hard limestone, with
+sea shells and animal remains scattered in it, but no fossil
+bones have ever been found there.</p>
+
+<p>Towards noon we reached Golconda Island, twenty and
+a half miles from Cave-in-Rock, <span class="opage">96</span> and then Golconda in
+Illinois, a small town, with a few white buildings, in which
+they were erecting a court-house, and which is the seat
+of the tribunals of Pope County. Near Sister Islands we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>
+met the Brunswick steamer, which had in tow two large flat
+boats, full of horses, which were being conveyed from
+Mount Vernon to New Orleans. The owners of the horses
+have to pay above 500 dollars for the voyage. Opposite
+Cumberland Island is the mouth of the Cumberland River,
+which comes from Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio, at an
+acute angle. This river is not so large as the Wabash. A
+small village, called Smithland, is built at the mouth, which
+reminded me of a little Brazilian villa, the houses, mostly
+one story high, lying in a row by the water-side.<a name="FNanchor_111" id="FNanchor_111" href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a></p>
+
+<p>At this place the Paragon took in wood and provisions.
+Not far from Smithland is the mouth of the Tenessee River,
+which is said to be more considerable than the Cumberland,
+and to have a course of 1,200 miles. The little village,
+Paduca, on the left bank of the Ohio, appeared to have
+much traffic, and a number of new shops had been built.
+The Western Pilot of the year 1829 does not mention this
+place&mdash;a proof of its recent origin. From hence we came
+to the spot where Fort Massac formerly stood, stones of
+which are still found.<a name="FNanchor_112" id="FNanchor_112" href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> We lay to some hundred paces
+below to take in wood, of which our vessel consumed twelve
+cords daily. The grass on the banks was already of a bright
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span>
+green colour, and a race of large long-legged sheep were
+grazing on it. We lay to for the night.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning of the 20th of March we approached
+the mouth of the Ohio, where it falls into the Mississippi,
+959 miles from Pittsburg, and 129� miles from St. Louis.
+The tongue of land on the right, which separates the two
+rivers, was, like the whole of the country, covered with
+rich woods, which were partly cleared, and a few houses
+erected, with an inn and store, and the dwelling of a planter,
+where we took in wood. In this store we saw, among heaps
+of skins, that of a black bear, lately killed, of which one
+of the three cubs, a very comical little beast, had been kept
+alive. This young bear had on his breast a semicircle of
+white hair. The settlement, at which we now were, has no
+other name than Mouth of the Ohio.<a name="FNanchor_113" id="FNanchor_113" href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> We now entered
+the Mississippi, and ascended it, keeping to the left or
+eastern bank. This river is not broader here than the Ohio,
+and the water of both was of the same colour; the bank
+was steep, covered with broken stems of trees, and crowned
+on the summit with high slender poplars. The lower banks
+were clothed with lofty trees, and at their feet strips of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span>
+poplar and willows bending over the water. On the right
+hand, in particular, were romantic forest scenes; a wilderness
+of fallen trees, which the floods and storms had thrown
+and piled upon each other, like an <i>abatis</i>. Parasite plants
+wound round the trees, and matted them together; while,
+further on, rose the picturesque terraces of the wood-covered
+bank. There being many snags (trunks lying in the water)
+in the river, we could only proceed by daylight. The islands,
+covered with high poplars, were generally bordered with
+thickets of willow, which had now no appearance whatever
+of green, but looked of a bright yellowish red, from
+the colour of their branches. Gleams of sunshine <span class="opage">97</span> sometimes
+cast over these willow thickets a fine red glow, and
+gave them a very original appearance. Large quantities
+of drifted wood were frequently seen on the points of the
+islands towards the current. The water being very low,
+we were obliged to take soundings, and yet our vessel proceeded
+five or eight hours against the stream. The O'Connell
+steam-boat had run aground in this place, and its people
+were employed in landing the cargo, consisting chiefly of
+lead.<a name="FNanchor_114" id="FNanchor_114" href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> In many places on the bank, slender poplars form
+thick groves, whose tall stems spread into branches at the
+summit. They are all of an equal height, and are one of the
+characteristic features in the landscape scenery of the Mississippi
+and Missouri. At twelve at noon, Reaumur's thermometer
+was at +14��, with a high wind, which blew the
+sand of the sand banks into the air. We lay to, to take
+in fuel, which cost three dollars for two cords. Here was a
+high, steep, sandy bank, and a small, very wretched planter's
+log-house, exposed on all parts to the wind, the sides of
+which consisted only of boards set upright. A couple of
+bad beds took up almost the whole of the interior. The
+woman, with her pipe in her mouth, was occupied at the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>
+miserable fire-place; the man was just returned, with a boy,
+from the forest; the two other children looked unhealthy,
+weak and pale; one of these girls was employed in planting
+onions in a small patch of newly-prepared ground. A
+couple of oxen, five or six young hogs, and some Muscovy
+ducks, were feeding about the cottage. Immediately behind,
+and close to it, commenced the magnificent, dense,
+and lofty forest, which we resolved at once to explore, and
+there very sensibly felt the heat of the spring, because the
+wind could not penetrate. The underwood of the forest
+consisted of the spicewood (<i>Laurus benzoin</i>), which grows
+to the height of ten and fifteen feet; its bark is highly aromatic,
+and it was covered with small yellow blossoms, which
+appear before the leaves, and resemble those of our cornelian
+cherry. The abundance of these flowers gives to
+the underwood a lively tint, which strikes the eye at a distance.
+Large, lofty trees, overgrown with climbing plants,
+formed the forest on the Mississippi, and the ground was
+covered with a delicate yellow flowering plant (<i>Corydalis
+flava, N.</i>) In the front of the cottage, which was close
+to the bank, stood a tree, about which a beautiful <i>Bignonia
+radicans</i> entwined; and the turkey buzzards hovered high
+in the air above the forest.</p>
+
+<p>As we proceeded on our voyage, the wind was so high,
+and it raised the waves and the sand so excessively, that
+we sought the protection of the opposite bank. We passed
+many islands, several of which give a great insight into the
+formation of the banks of the Mississippi. One of them,
+especially, showed, at a certain place, a bank which had
+sunk down, where we perceived layers of large trunks of
+trees, heaped one upon another, the tops of which were
+visible. On such foundations the river throws its sand,
+willows and poplars grow up, by the leaves of which good
+earth is formed, and, in the end, lofty forests of hard wood
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span>
+arise. Though the Paragon drew only five feet of water,
+we were often aground; the wind laid the vessel a little on
+the side, the crew shoved with poles, sounded, stopped the
+engine, then made the vessel go backwards <span class="opage">98</span> and then
+sidewards, and so got afloat again. Little villages were
+seldom seen on this part of the banks of the Mississippi;
+however, we came to the village of Commerce,<a name="FNanchor_115" id="FNanchor_115" href="#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> on a rocky
+hill, and it is here that rows of hills of a very interesting
+appearance commence on the left or Missouri bank. Fragments
+of rock lie about, and the cedar (<i>Juniperus Virginiana</i>)
+immediately appears again. The forest seems to decrease
+in height in these calcareous rocks, especially the
+planes, which are more colossal in Indiana; and on the
+eminences in the forests, isolated groups of rocks are often
+seen, frequently of singular forms, like pulpits. Night setting
+in, we retired to our cabin to avoid the cold evening
+air, and lay to under cover of the bank. At this spot there
+was a single planter's dwelling upon the steep bank, which
+was fifty or sixty feet high. A large fire was kindled at the
+top, which brilliantly illuminated the high trunks of the
+forest, and warmed our crew by its intense heat. In the
+cleanly cottage of the peasant, which was well closed on
+all sides, we conversed with his wife, who told us that their
+house had been burnt down a short time before, and
+rebuilt; she said also that wild animals abound in this part
+of the country; stags especially are numerous, but bears
+are rarely met with.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st of March we reached Cape Girardeau, an
+ancient French settlement, now a large scattered village,
+which, as we were told, had of late much improved. Beds
+of limestone appeared on the bank, and heaps of it were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span>
+piled up; it contains many shells. After passing Devil's
+Island, we found in the river a sunk steam-boat, which was
+now quite broken up; many of these vessels passed us.
+The spicewood was everywhere in flower in the forests on
+the bank, and it is said that its appearance indicates a fine
+soil. The pretty narrow-leaved willow, on the contrary,
+was still covered with its last year's dry leaves. We passed
+by the villages of Bainbridge and Harrisburg, and then
+came to that part of the river which is called Hanging-Dog-Bend,
+where the Mississippi is wide and beautiful.
+Various strata and ravines are observed in the wooded
+calcareous mountains; such a stratified rock, cleft perpendicularly,
+has the name of Devil's Tea-table; other rocks
+resembled round towers standing close to each other, all
+crowned with wood, where the turkey buzzard resorted.<a name="FNanchor_116" id="FNanchor_116" href="#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a>
+The opposite or Illinois bank has very seldom any such
+rocks, and it is more cultivated close to the river. Flocks
+of ducks, probably <i>Anas rufitorques</i>, were swimming on
+the water. The calcareous rocks, grey, bright yellow, bright
+blue, or yellowish red, were frequently very singularly formed,
+especially a little further up, the interesting Grand Tower,
+an isolated, cylindrical rock, from sixty to eighty feet in
+height, which we reached when it was splendidly illumined
+by the setting sun.<a name="FNanchor_117" id="FNanchor_117" href="#Footnote_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> To the right, on the Illinois bank,
+opposite the Tower Rock, at the point or corner of the mountain
+projecting towards the Mississippi, three or four very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span>
+strangely formed rocks are standing, full of clefts and ravines,
+the foremost of which is called the Devil's Bake-oven, and
+is covered at the summit with pines. The Grand Tower<a name="FNanchor_118" id="FNanchor_118" href="#Footnote_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a>
+stands <span class="opage">99</span> quite isolated on the left bank; and its summit
+is crowned with red cedars. Behind it there is another
+large rock, split into several perpendicular divisions, like
+towers, and the whole group forms, as it were, a most
+original portico. Some habitations were picturesquely situated
+against these rocks. A little above that narrow rocky
+portico of the river, the Obrazo Creek, in the State of Missouri,
+appears, where we took in fuel. The ravine of the
+stream was covered with fine tall timber, to which the kingfisher
+resorted. A couple of cottages were inhabited by
+negroes, and in front of them lay a piece of fertile land,
+where rows of cotton trees were planted. The high old
+elms were now in flower by the side of the stream, and the
+large red cedars, around the dwellings, were still partly
+laden with their black berries. The <i>Mnium ciliare</i> (Grev.;
+Bryum) was abundant in this neighbourhood. Above Hat
+Island, we lay to for the night on the Missouri bank.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 22nd of March was serene; the sight
+of the rising sun from the poop of the vessel was truly magnificent;
+as the flaming disk of the king of day rose above
+the woody banks of the Mississippi, the waves formed by
+the rapid course of the vessel glowed with the most resplendent
+colours; the wild geese and ducks, frightened by our
+Paragon, hastened away with rustling wings; the kingfisher
+was frequent on the shrubs. Near St. Mary River we ran
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span>
+aground, but were not long delayed by this accident. The
+cords of wood for the steam-boat were lying ready piled up
+on the bank, stating the price and the quantity. The village
+of Chester, in Illinois, where we took in wood, was
+quite a new settlement, consisting at present of but a few
+houses. Among the limestone and wood on the bank, we
+shot a beautiful lizard (<i>Agama undulata</i>, Daud.), which is
+said to attain a considerable size, especially on the river
+St. Peter. The buds of the red oak were very forward.
+At noon the weather was excessively warm, and on the
+river the thermometer was +11�� Reaumur. We saw the
+mouth of the Kaskaskia River, on the Illinois bank, six
+miles up which Kaskaskia is situated, one of the oldest
+French settlements on the Mississippi.<a name="FNanchor_119" id="FNanchor_119" href="#Footnote_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> The tribe of Kaskaskian
+Indians dwelt in these parts, and some remains of
+them still live near the settlement. We were told that there
+was at present only one man among them of the pure race.
+A wooded chain of hills runs along the Kaskaskia, in which
+large columns of smoke were rising, doubtless occasioned
+by the woods being on fire. Numbers of tortoises were
+basking at noon on the trunks of trees and stones in the
+river. They have hard shells, and most of them are not
+large; though we often shot at them, we did not succeed
+in getting a single one. Wild geese were walking upon the
+sand-banks; we fired at them; the first shot did not in the
+smallest degree discompose them; at the second, when the
+ball whizzed close by them, they flew away, but only to a
+short distance. At St. Genevi�ve Island, the river divides,
+and we steered to the west of the island. It is covered
+with lofty trees; the banks are abruptly broken; large trunks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>
+<span class="opage">100</span> of trees were lying in the water. Before us we saw
+St. Genevi�ve,<a name="FNanchor_120" id="FNanchor_120" href="#Footnote_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> where columns of smoke ascended in the
+distance; on the island was a small settlement, with a hut,
+worse than that of an Indian, and near, the canoe, turned
+bottom upwards. The inhabitants were sunburnt, badly
+clothed, of a savage aspect, like the Indians. A tall forest
+surrounded this characteristic scene. The Mississippi is
+here very broad, and is certainly a very noble stream. The
+prospect up the river is highly picturesque. Gentle eminences
+bound the horizon, and on account of a bend which
+the river makes to the right, it appears to come through a
+narrow opening. St. Genevi�ve, an old French settlement,
+now a large village, with 600 or 800 inhabitants, is about
+twenty minutes' walk from the landing-place, and appears
+to be in a state of decline; it was founded at the same time
+as Kaskaskia. The streets are at right angles, unpaved,
+and bordered with hedges. The houses, which are of one
+story, are separate from each other, and have, in general, a
+verandah in front. The church is built of red brick. French
+and English are spoken, and there are several German inhabitants.
+Caravans go every spring from hence to the
+interior of the western prairies, to Sante F� and the Rocky
+Mountains; they consist of many armed men, with their
+horses and wagons. The well-known lead mines are further
+up the country.<a name="FNanchor_121" id="FNanchor_121" href="#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> Limestone everywhere stands out:
+the water is very bad, and not fit for drinking.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 23rd of March, the sun shining
+very brightly, strange forms of rock, alternating with high
+forests, appeared on the banks of the river; on the left, or
+western bank especially, the walls of rock were cleft by rude
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span>
+valleys, from which a small stream generally issued. Single
+pines are scattered in the woods; on the right bank, on the
+skirts of the forest, is a row of poplars, of perfectly equal
+height, but the planes are not so high as those we have
+before seen. We passed the place where Fort Ch�rtres
+formerly stood.<a name="FNanchor_122" id="FNanchor_122" href="#Footnote_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> The limestone rocks in these parts assume
+the most highly original shapes and formations, about
+which much might be said if our limits would permit. They
+have often natural caverns and excavations, like the niches
+cut for the images of saints, which we see in Europe.<a name="FNanchor_123" id="FNanchor_123" href="#Footnote_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a>
+Others have regular <span class="opage">101</span> projecting ledges and lofty cones;
+sometimes they are so rounded as to represent a row of
+perpendicular towers, &amp;c. On many of the rocks shot
+towers have been erected, the whole country, as is well
+known, abounding in lead.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo213" id="illo213"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_214.jpg" width="515" height="228" alt="Formations of limestone rocks" />
+<p class="caption">Formations of limestone rocks</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We passed by the settlement of Selma, and the village
+of Herculaneum;<a name="FNanchor_124" id="FNanchor_124" href="#Footnote_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> the latter consisting of about thirty
+houses, the immediate vicinity of which is remarkable for
+a perforated limestone rock. The distance from hence to
+Genevi�ve is twenty-one miles, and to St. Louis, thirty.
+After passing round the point of Little Rock, which is about
+forty feet high&mdash;beyond which the small Platteen Creek
+falls into the river&mdash;we soon reached the mouth of the
+Merrimack River, where we saw large flocks of ducks and
+sea-gulls.<a name="FNanchor_125" id="FNanchor_125" href="#Footnote_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> About Robert's Island the country becomes
+flat and uninteresting. Towards evening we reached Jefferson
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>
+barracks, on the left bank, where the 6th regiment
+of regular infantry was in garrison, and the flag of the
+United States was hoisted. These barracks were interesting
+at this time, because the celebrated Indian chief, Black
+Hawk, was imprisoned in them. Before night, we passed
+the French settlement of Vide-Poche, or Carondelet, founded
+about 100 years ago, a large scattered village, the inhabitants
+of which are reported to be not very industrious. The
+neighbouring hills are covered with low oak bushes. We
+passed the night nearly opposite Kahokia, and on the morning
+of the 24th of March, to our great joy, beheld the town
+of St. Louis.<a name="FNanchor_126" id="FNanchor_126" href="#Footnote_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> Its first appearance is not prepossessing, as
+it has no high steeples. The mass of houses, however,
+unfolds itself as you approach; the environs are low and
+monotonous. We landed about nine o'clock in the morning,
+in a cold high wind. The people whom we first saw were
+mostly negroes, or labourers.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis is a rapidly increasing town, with 6,000 or 8,000
+inhabitants, on the western bank of the Mississippi, about
+1,200 miles from New Orleans, and 1,134 miles from Pittsburg.
+It is built on a rather bare, gently rising, and not
+very elevated part of the banks; forms two streets parallel
+to the river, besides many houses lying on the summit in
+the prairie, where building seemed to be proceeding rapidly.
+On this upper part there are churches and other considerable
+buildings, of which the town has many of different
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span>
+kinds; and the highly favourable situation, in the centre
+of the trade of the Mississippi, Ohio, and Missouri, will
+soon make it one of the most important places in the west.
+St. Louis was originally founded by the French; at first there
+was only a fort, and it was not till 1764 that the building
+of the town commenced, which in 1816 contained about 2,000
+inhabitants. Persons were still living&mdash;for instance, M.
+Chouteau&mdash;who had the wood felled on the spot where the
+buildings of the town now stand.<a name="FNanchor_127" id="FNanchor_127" href="#Footnote_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> The principal streets
+are full of handsome shops; numerous steam-boats come
+and go, daily, to and from New Orleans, Pittsburg, Cincinnati,
+Louisville, Prairie du Chien, &amp;c.; and a very brisk
+trade employs the motley population of many nations. Most
+of the merchants have their warehouses, which are mostly
+built of solid stone, on the bank of the Mississippi. The
+greater part of the workmen in the port, and all the servants
+in St. Louis, are negroes, and their descendants, who,
+as in the State <span class="opage">102</span> of Missouri, are all slaves. They are
+very numerous here; and though modern travellers represent
+in very favourable colours the situation of this oppressed
+race, the negro slaves are no better off here than in
+other countries. Everywhere they are a demoralized race,
+little to be depended upon; and the manner in which they
+are treated is generally not so good as has been represented.
+We were witnesses of deplorable punishments of
+these people. One of our neighbours at St. Louis, for
+instance, flogged one of his slaves in the public streets,
+with untiring arm. Sometimes he stopped a moment to
+rest, and then began anew.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis was the more interesting to us, at this moment,
+because we had, here, the first opportunity of becoming
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>
+acquainted with the North American Indians in all their
+originality; for the office for all the Indian affairs of the
+west is at St. Louis, under the direction of General Clarke,
+celebrated for his journey with Captain Lewis to the Rocky
+Mountains and Columbia River, who has the title of
+superintendent of Indian affairs.<a name="FNanchor_128" id="FNanchor_128" href="#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> He manages all these
+matters; and all strangers who wish to visit the interior of
+the western territory are obliged to have a passport from
+him, and all Indian agents and sub-agents are under him.
+It happened that, during our stay at St. Louis, a deputation
+came down the Mississippi from two Indian tribes, the
+Saukies (Sacs) and the Foxes or Outagamis, to intercede
+for the Black Hawk, who was a prisoner in Jefferson barracks.<a name="FNanchor_129" id="FNanchor_129" href="#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a>
+A Saukie chief, named Kiokuck, was at the head
+of this numerous deputation, and he was the very same
+person who had delivered the unfortunate Black Hawk into
+the hands of the Americans.<a name="FNanchor_130" id="FNanchor_130" href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> General Clarke, to whom
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span>
+I was introduced by the kindness of Duke Bernhard of Saxe
+Weimar, had very obligingly informed me of the meetings
+or councils which he held with the Indians, and we had the
+pleasure of being able thoroughly to observe and study these
+remarkable people. Quarters were assigned them in a large
+magazine near the harbour, to which we immediately repaired.
+We saw already on the beach a collection of the
+populace, and amidst the crowd of curious spectators, distinguished
+the strange dark brown figures, enveloped in red,
+white, or green blankets. We did not come up to them till
+they were in the house, and the first sight of them, which
+did not a little surprise me, convinced me at once of their
+great affinity to the Brazilians, so that I cannot hesitate to
+consider them as belonging to the same race.<a name="FNanchor_131" id="FNanchor_131" href="#Footnote_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> They are
+stout, well formed men, many of them above the middle
+size, broad shouldered, muscular and brawny. The features
+of the men are expressive, and strongly marked; the
+cheek bones prominent, the lower jaw broad and angular;
+the dark brown eyes animated and fiery, and especially in
+youth, the inner corner rather drawn down, but not so much
+so as in the Brazilians. The outer corner of the eye is not
+elevated either in the North or South Americans, at least I
+have seen it <span class="opage">103</span> in very few instances. The forehead appears
+to me not to recede so much in the North Americans
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span>
+as has been generally assumed, which is also the case with
+the Brazilians. Meyen<a name="FNanchor_132" id="FNanchor_132" href="#Footnote_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a> confirms this with respect to the
+people west of the Cordilleras. The teeth are strong, firm,
+and white, and generally perfectly sound, even at an advanced
+age. The nose is large and prominent, often much
+arched, but not always, a trait which occurs much more
+rarely among the Brazilians.<a name="FNanchor_133" id="FNanchor_133" href="#Footnote_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> The lips are usually rather
+thick; the hair straight, smooth, and black, as in all the
+Americans. The colour of the skin a darker or lighter brown,
+often deeper than in the Brazilians, but, on the whole, perfectly
+the same. Some of these Indians resemble the Chinese,
+which Bossu, too, affirms of the now extirpated race of the
+Natchez. The features of others strongly reminded me of
+the Botocudos.<a name="FNanchor_134" id="FNanchor_134" href="#Footnote_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a></p>
+
+<p>It may be observed here, with Von Humboldt and
+Meyen,<a name="FNanchor_135" id="FNanchor_135" href="#Footnote_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> that, notwithstanding a certain general affinity
+and resemblance of the race, there are, however, very great
+diversities among the people of American descent. Thus, for
+instance, the large aquiline nose of several northern nations
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>
+may be mentioned, which must have been very remarkable
+among the ancient tribes of Mexico, as is proved by the old
+monuments of that, historically, most interesting country.
+Though this similarity appears to indicate an affinity of
+the Mexicans with more northern nations, a similar conformation
+was found here and there in South America also;
+as Duperrey<a name="FNanchor_136" id="FNanchor_136" href="#Footnote_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> represents the Peruvians, and as Dr. Meyen
+also states. I am, however, of opinion that the notion of
+the last-named learned travellers is untenable, <i>viz.</i>, that on
+account of the different<a name="FNanchor_137" id="FNanchor_137" href="#Footnote_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> form of their skulls, the Puris and
+the Botocudos, who live so near to each other, are distinct
+races. I have compared numbers of Mandan skulls with
+each other, which were all genuine, and found great diversity
+in them, especially with respect to the receding of the forehead
+and the flattening of the head. In the same manner
+the brown colour of the American is of different shades.
+Mr. Von Humboldt found the Mexicans darker than many
+South Americans;<a name="FNanchor_138" id="FNanchor_138" href="#Footnote_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> and many of the North American nations
+which I have seen, were likewise of a darker complexion
+than many Brazilians. My observations with respect
+to this point coincide so perfectly with the views of that
+distinguished traveller, that I might copy the passages in his
+works which treat of the Americans, and confirm them by
+many additional proofs. Among the Botocudos I met with
+individuals who were nearly white; Volney was certainly
+deceived by Michichinakua (the little tortoise), who wanted
+to raise himself to the dignity of a white man, for the North
+Americans are not of a lighter colour on <span class="opage">104</span> those parts
+of their bodies which are clothed, than on those which are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span>
+exposed to the air and sun. Pike, and some other travellers,
+pretend to have found the Mongol physiognomy among the
+North American Indians, especially the Pawnees and the
+Sioux;<a name="FNanchor_139" id="FNanchor_139" href="#Footnote_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> but I can affirm that I met with no such physiognomy,
+though I saw a few instances of it in Brazil. Mr.
+Von Humboldt very justly observes, on this head, that not
+merely the bodily conformation, but likewise the mode of
+living, of the two races, are entirely different. The great
+contrast between the American and Mongol races is immediately
+apparent, when we consider that the former have
+no breed of cattle, and do not subsist on milk, without
+which the latter cannot live.<a name="FNanchor_140" id="FNanchor_140" href="#Footnote_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> The Tartar features, which
+are very handsome, did not occur to me in North America.
+Warden, in his work on American antiquities,<a name="FNanchor_141" id="FNanchor_141" href="#Footnote_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> gives a
+drawing of a vessel found near the river Cany, which is
+adorned with three human heads. These heads have not
+the Tartar physiognomy, as the author believes, but precisely
+that of the North American Indians.</p>
+
+<p>From this digression on the general conformation of the
+North Americans, we return to our narrative.</p>
+
+<p>The Saukies and Foxes had shaved their hair off the
+whole head except a small tuft behind, the greater part of
+which was cut short, like a brush, and which terminated in
+a thin braid, to which was fastened the chief ornament of
+the head, the deer's tail, which is a tuft of hair from the
+tail of the Virginian stag, white, with some black hair, the
+white part being dyed red with vermilion.<a name="FNanchor_142" id="FNanchor_142" href="#Footnote_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> It is fastened
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span>
+in an ingenious manner, with some strings and pegs of wood,
+to the tuft of hair at the back of the head; and in the middle
+of it, concealed between the hair, is a small piece of carved
+wood, to which a small bone box is affixed, into which a
+large eagle's feather is fastened, projecting horizontally behind;
+this feather is often dyed with vermilion, and is the
+characteristic distinction of a brave warrior. He who has
+become renowned for horse-stealing, which, according to
+their notions, is a heroic exploit, fastens to the tip of this
+feather the rattle of a rattlesnake. The whole deer's tail,
+when it is not worn, is rolled up in the form of a thick ball,
+fastened with leather straps, and kept in this manner, that
+the hair may remain smooth, and in the proper position.
+Mr. Bodmer took an admirable likeness of Watapinat (eagle's
+nest), a handsome Fox Indian, wearing this head-dress.<a name="FNanchor_143" id="FNanchor_143" href="#Footnote_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a>
+The North Americans pluck out their eyebrows, beard, &amp;c.,
+like the Brazilians, and, at present, employ in this operation
+a spiral wire, between the windings of which they take hold
+of the hair. These nations adorn their ears in a very original
+manner; three large holes, one above the other, are
+made at the outer rim, in which short strings of blue and
+white wampum shells<a name="FNanchor_144" id="FNanchor_144" href="#Footnote_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a> are hung, like tassels. Some of the
+men had even cut through <span class="opage">105</span> the whole outer rim, which
+remained attached only above and below, and was adorned
+with strings of wampum and metal rings; similar strings,
+and pieces of blue and white shells, are worn in many rows
+around the neck.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The women are small and thickset; most of them have
+large round heads, and broad, flat, round faces. They let
+their hair grow naturally, part it on the forehead, and tie
+it together, at the back of the head, in a short, thick bunch,
+which is bound round with red and green ribbon. A few
+old men had not shaved their heads; but in winter it is said
+that these Indians let their hair grow, to protect them against
+the cold. Both sexes had their faces more or less painted red:
+the Saukies mostly red, in different designs; the Foxes, red
+and yellow, or red, white, and black. The manner of painting
+depends on the taste of the individual; nearly all of them
+had red circles round the eyes and ears, and red stripes down
+the cheeks, the rest of the face being left of the natural colour.
+They use, for this purpose, vermilion, which they obtain
+from the merchants. The Fox Indians had often the whole
+head painted red; a yellow or white stripe on the forehead,
+and the mouth and chin with the figure of a yellow hand, or
+else quite black. A tall, handsome Saukie Indian, called
+Massica (the tortoise), had a bold, fierce countenance, and
+an aquiline nose; his cordiality was very striking; his brown
+eyes sparkled, and his white teeth looked quite dazzling,
+contrasted with the dark brown face, which had a good deal
+of red paint on it. On his forehead he wore a band of
+otter skin, which was fastened behind the head, and then
+fell down in two long stripes to the ground. He had attached
+a black and white eagle's feather to his deer's tail, and was
+covered with a large red blanket. Mr. Bodmer has given
+a very good likeness of this handsome man in Plate 36, but
+without his head-dress, in order to show the manner in
+which the tuft of hair was cut. Many of these people wore
+coloured calico shirts, and all used the Indian leather leggins,
+which come down to the shoes, and are ornamented
+at the ankles with leather fringes. They are fastened, with
+leather straps, above the girdle. They also wear a piece
+of woollen cloth, generally striped blue and white, round the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span>
+waist, which is fastened under the girdle. The girdle and
+knee bands were often very elegantly adorned with glass
+beads, and in the former is a sheath, similarly ornamented,
+for a large, broad, and very sharp knife, which they obtain,
+by barter, from the merchants, and employ for various purposes,
+especially for cutting up game, and scalping their
+enemies. The shoes, generally called mocassins, are made
+of soft, tanned buckskin, and the upper edge turned down
+below the ankle. These people wear them very plain, without
+any ornament. Many of them had fastened swan skins,
+with the down, or that of polecats, much marked with white,
+below their knees, the long hairy tail of which hung down
+to the ground, or to the ankle. Most of them had no other
+covering, on the upper part of the body, under their blankets;
+and <span class="opage">106</span> many wore brass necklaces and bracelets. The
+men, who were between thirty and forty in number, never
+appeared without their arms; they carried tomahawks,<a name="FNanchor_145" id="FNanchor_145" href="#Footnote_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a>
+or else the common Indian club,<a name="FNanchor_146" id="FNanchor_146" href="#Footnote_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a> which has, at the upper
+end, a steel plate, sharp on both edges, and pointed.<a name="FNanchor_147" id="FNanchor_147" href="#Footnote_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a> We
+did not see any bows and arrows among these Indians, because
+they had not come out on a warlike expedition, but on
+a festal visit; many of them had a kind of lance, made of
+a long sword blade, fastened to a pole, which was covered
+with red cloth, and ornamented with many black raven's
+or eagle's feathers, hanging down either in a long row, or
+in long bunches.<a name="FNanchor_148" id="FNanchor_148" href="#Footnote_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a> These weapons they had always in their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span>
+hand, and never laid them aside. The women, like those
+of Brazil, carried their bundles on their backs, with a leather
+strap passing over the forehead; they had their children
+with them, some of whom were in very convenient cradles.
+They all had very neat bast mats, ornamented with black
+figures, on which they slept, and some had, likewise, bear
+skins. Their travelling sacks, or bags, in which they had
+all their effects, were of the same material.</p>
+
+<p>The chief or leader of the Indians assembled here, was
+the Saukie chief, Kiokuck, a slender man, of the middle size,
+with agreeable features, not very different from those of an
+European, though of a darker colour. He wore a coloured
+calico shirt, and, on his breast, a large medal, which he
+had received from the President of the United States; and
+likewise wore a figured handkerchief round his head, and
+was wrapped in a green blanket. He carried in his hand
+a calumet, ornamented with feathers. His face was not
+painted, his ears not disfigured, and it was affirmed that
+he was not of pure Indian origin. He wore brass rings
+round his neck and wrists.</p>
+
+<p>The dwelling-place of these Indians is on the western
+banks of the Mississippi, about Rock River and Rock Island,
+where the agent appointed for them by the government resides.
+In 1805 they sold, to the United States, their territory
+on the east of the Mississippi; still claiming a large
+tract of land, which extends from the upper Jowa River, along
+the west bank of the Mississippi, down to the river Des
+Moines, and further back to the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_149" id="FNanchor_149" href="#Footnote_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a> The Fox
+Indians call themselves Musquacki, or Mus-quack-ki-uck.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span>
+They live sociably in villages, in permanent arched huts,
+and it is said that they can muster 1,600 warriors (according
+to Dr. Morse, however, only 800),<a name="FNanchor_150" id="FNanchor_150" href="#Footnote_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a> and that they number
+about 5,000 souls. They plant maize, beans, gourds, &amp;c.
+The men hunt, and work in their lead mines, which are
+very productive, so that, it is said, they have yielded 500,000
+lbs. in one season.<a name="FNanchor_151" id="FNanchor_151" href="#Footnote_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a> Their language has not a barbarous
+sound; it has some nasals and gutturals; the words are very
+frequently pronounced indistinctly, so that <span class="opage">107</span> it is often
+difficult to write them down; though, on the whole, less so
+than is the case with many other nations.</p>
+
+<p>The French and English find much more difficulty than
+the Germans, in pronouncing all the Indian languages of
+North America, with which I have become acquainted. It
+was highly interesting to us, to observe so many of these
+Indians together. They were by no means grave and still;
+on the contrary, they were very cheerful, and often laughed
+heartily. If one went up to them familiarly, and spoke to
+them, many of them had a very agreeable, friendly expression;
+others were cold, and appeared, to us, hostile. Several repeated,
+with pleasure, the words of their language, and were
+very willing to have their portraits drawn, for which they
+always required a present. At last they were so annoyed by
+the importunity of the motley crowd, that we could have no
+more intercourse with them. They sold many of their effects,
+for which they received money, which they soon disposed
+of, but always examined whether it was genuine or false.
+There were some grave, dignified men among them, who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>
+carefully observed what was passing around them. Of these,
+I especially noticed Watapinat and Massica.</p>
+
+<p>General Clarke invited us to a small assembly, which
+he was to hold in his house with the Indians. We accordingly
+repaired thither. This meeting took place in the apartments,
+which are ornamented with a highly interesting
+collection of arms and utensils, which the General had procured
+on his extensive travels with Captain Lewis.<a name="FNanchor_152" id="FNanchor_152" href="#Footnote_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> The
+rooms contain, likewise, portraits of the most distinguished
+Indian chiefs of different nations. General Clarke, with
+his secretary, was seated opposite to the Indians, who sat
+in rows along the walls of the apartment. We strangers
+sat at the General's side, and near him stood the interpreter, a
+French Canadian. The Indians, about thirty in number, had
+done their best to ornament and paint themselves; they all
+looked very serious and solemn, and their chief sat at their
+right hand. The general first told them, through the interpreter,
+for what reason he had assembled them here, on which
+Kiokuck rose, with the calumet in his left hand, gesticulating
+with his right hand, in harmony with his thoughts;
+he spoke very loud, in broken sentences, interrupted by
+short pauses. His speech was immediately translated and
+written down. This conference lasted above half an hour.
+General Clarke had introduced us to the Indians, telling
+them that we had come far over the ocean to see them;
+they all testified their satisfaction in a rather drawling "Hah!"
+or "Ahah." Before and after the sitting all the Indians
+passed us in a line, each giving us his right hand, and looking
+steadfastly in our faces. They then withdrew, headed by
+their chiefs. The General had told them that they should
+persevere in their amicable sentiments as hitherto; and they
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>
+had expressed the wish that their brethren might soon be
+set at liberty, because their wives and children at home
+were suffering hunger and distress. Upon this the General
+advised them, when Black Hawk and his associates
+should be set at liberty, to keep a watchful eye over them.
+On this condition he would intercede for the prisoners. We
+were invited by the General to accompany him, on the <span class="opage">108</span>
+following day, on board the Warrior<a name="FNanchor_153" id="FNanchor_153" href="#Footnote_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a> steam-boat, when
+he intended to convey the Indians to the barracks, to grant
+them an interview with Black Hawk.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th of March we found the Indians already on
+board the Warrior, which was hired for this excursion; others
+of these original figures, wrapped in their red blankets, were
+walking on the beach. We had provided cigars and other
+trifles, by which we soon gained their confidence. Massica,
+the tall young Saukie Indian, was the most interesting among
+them. As soon as General Clarke came, the anchor was
+weighed, and the Warrior proceeded down the Mississippi.
+The Indians assembled on the fore part of the ship, to sing:
+the bleak wind was much felt by many of them, as they
+wore no covering under their blankets, yet they always remained
+on deck. Below, in the after hold of the vessel, they
+had a fire, at which they boiled and roasted the provisions
+that were given them. They examined, with much attention,
+the steam-engine, the hissing and roaring of which
+interested them extremely. They formed groups of different
+kinds; many were busy in improving the painting of
+their faces, at their small looking-glasses; others were smoking
+their pipes in philosophical ease; and others lay asleep
+on the floor, wrapped in their blankets. They very readily
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span>
+acquiesced, whenever we asked them to sing; their chorus-singing
+was remarkable; it rises and falls, now loud now
+low, often quavering, yet, on the whole, not inharmonious;
+and though it has some resemblance with that of the Botocudos,
+in Brazil, it was by no means so rude and savage.
+Sometimes they shouted aloud, and generally ended their
+song with their war-whoop&mdash;a shrill cry, in which they
+cause the voice to quaver, by holding the hand before the
+mouth.</p>
+
+<p>About ten o'clock the Warrior approached Jefferson barracks,
+where the inhabitants had assembled on the shore
+to see the Indian deputation land. The Indians sung a
+wild chorus, rattling their weapons, and, as soon as they had
+landed, marched in procession, led by their chiefs, to the
+heights, where the barracks formed a quadrangle, open to
+the river, enclosing a large space. General Clarke introduced
+us to General Atkinson, the commandant of the place;<a name="FNanchor_154" id="FNanchor_154" href="#Footnote_154" class="fnanchor">[154]</a>
+and, after resting a short time in his house, we proceeded
+to a spacious empty hall in one of the adjoining buildings,
+where the Indians were already seated in rows. The Generals
+sat opposite to them, surrounded by the spectators,
+among whom were several ladies. When all were assembled,
+Kiokuck, with the aid of the interpreter, delivered an address
+to General Atkinson, who replied, on which the prisoners
+were introduced. First of all, Black Hawk appeared,
+a little old man, perhaps seventy years of age, with grey hair,
+and a light yellow complexion; a slightly curved nose, and
+Chinese features, to which the shaven head, with the usual
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span>
+tuft behind, not a little contributed.<a name="FNanchor_155" id="FNanchor_155" href="#Footnote_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a> None of the prisoners
+were painted. These poor men entered with downcast
+looks; and though no Indian betrayed any lively demonstrations
+of emotion, such feelings were very manifest in
+many of them. The prisoners gave their hands to their
+countrymen all round, and then sat down with them. Two
+of the Indians, known as particularly <span class="opage">109</span> dangerous men,
+one of them the celebrated Winnebago prophet, who has a
+repulsive countenance, had chains with large iron balls at
+their feet.<a name="FNanchor_156" id="FNanchor_156" href="#Footnote_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> The other prisoners were not chained, and we
+were told that they were taken out every day to walk, by the
+guard. The speeches now recommenced: Kiokuck spoke
+often, and interceded for the prisoners; and General Atkinson
+repeated to them pretty nearly what General Clarke
+had already said, on which the Indians again uttered their
+"Hah," or "Ahah." When the speeches were ended, the
+company withdrew, and left the prisoners alone with their
+countrymen, to give free vent to their feelings. The sight
+of old Black Hawk, and the whole scene of the prisoners
+and their friends, was affecting, and many of the spectators
+appeared to participate in their feelings.</p>
+
+<p>We then examined the barracks, in which four companies
+of the 6th regiment were quartered. The hospital is a detached
+building; the surrounding country is open prairie;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span>
+in the vicinity of the buildings, however, it is covered with
+a wood of slender oaks, without underwood, and from the
+eminence is a very agreeable prospect over the river. General
+Atkinson invited us to dinner, and introduced us to his
+family. At three o'clock we again embarked on the Warrior
+with all the Indians, and reached St. Louis late in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>As it was my intention to travel through the interior of
+the western part of North America, and, if possible, the
+Rocky Mountains, St. Louis was unquestionably the most
+proper basis for such an enterprise. The question was,
+whether it was more advisable to go by the caravans by
+land to Santa F�, or to proceed by water up the Missouri?
+Captain Stewart (of Grand Tully), an English traveller,
+with whom I had become acquainted at St. Louis, was on
+the point of setting out by land by the caravan, and it would
+have been agreeable to me to travel in his company;<a name="FNanchor_157" id="FNanchor_157" href="#Footnote_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a> but
+after I had consulted many persons well acquainted with
+the country, the plan of following the course of the Missouri
+seemed to be the most suitable for my purposes; for, first,
+I should not be able to observe any Indians on the land
+journey; for if you happen to meet with them, you must
+fight them, and, therefore, cannot become well acquainted
+with them; and, secondly, it is extremely difficult, nay impossible,
+to make considerable collections of natural history
+on such a journey. These reasons were decisive: I hoped,
+therefore, to obtain from the gentlemen of the American
+Fur Company, a passage up the Missouri in their steam-boat,
+the Yellow Stone, which was daily expected to return from
+New Orleans; and as soon as it had taken in a cargo, was
+to set out on its voyage up the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_158" id="FNanchor_158" href="#Footnote_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a> It is necessary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>
+to prefix a few words respecting this American Fur Company.
+The first regular company of this kind in the United
+States was the Michilimakinack Fur Company, established
+in 1790. Its capital belonged chiefly to some persons in
+Canada; but as foreigners were not allowed to trade with
+the Indians in the United States, some citizens of the latter
+gave it the sanction of their names.<a name="FNanchor_159" id="FNanchor_159" href="#Footnote_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a> The last war with
+England dissolved the company, and during that time no
+trade was carried on with the Indians. About 1816, Mr.
+Astor, of New York, a countryman of ours, formed a fur
+company, under the name of <span class="opage">110</span> the American Fur Company.<a name="FNanchor_160" id="FNanchor_160" href="#Footnote_160" class="fnanchor">[160]</a>
+His plan was well conceived, very extensive, and
+designed to carry on trade with all the Indian tribes. Mr.
+Astor's enterprises towards the Columbia River did not
+succeed, but in all other parts the fur trade prospered, and
+is carried on, up to the present time, with great success.<a name="FNanchor_161" id="FNanchor_161" href="#Footnote_161" class="fnanchor">[161]</a>
+About the same time two other companies were formed at
+St. Louis&mdash;the Missouri Fur Company, and the French
+Company, which proposed to carry on the trade on that
+river. The first continued its operations for about five or
+six years, when it terminated, having met with many difficulties.<a name="FNanchor_162" id="FNanchor_162" href="#Footnote_162" class="fnanchor">[162]</a>
+In 1822 the Columbia Fur Company was established,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span>
+and violent opposition and rivalry arose between the
+three companies, which continued till 1826.<a name="FNanchor_163" id="FNanchor_163" href="#Footnote_163" class="fnanchor">[163]</a> During this
+time the fur trade had afforded but little profit to any of the
+persons engaged in it. In the spring of that year, a person of
+the name of Crooks was sent from New York by the American
+Fur Company to buy up the two other companies, in
+which he succeeded.<a name="FNanchor_164" id="FNanchor_164" href="#Footnote_164" class="fnanchor">[164]</a> Some of the members of these companies
+were received into the American Company, and thus
+the whole of the very extensive fur trade was concentrated
+in the hands of that company, and remains so up to this
+moment. Some individuals and small associations have
+since made frequent attempts to carry on the trade in the
+Indian territory and the Rocky Mountains,<a name="FNanchor_165" id="FNanchor_165" href="#Footnote_165" class="fnanchor">[165]</a> but have always
+been obliged to give way to the powerful and wealthy
+company, which has now spread its commercial stations
+over a great part of the interior of North America, and continues
+to extend them more and more.<a name="FNanchor_166" id="FNanchor_166" href="#Footnote_166" class="fnanchor">[166]</a></p>
+
+<p>In British North America, two great fur companies were
+founded at an earlier period&mdash;the North-west, and the Hudson's
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span>
+Bay Company, which for a long time were at open
+war with each other, but afterwards joined, and still exist
+under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company.<a name="FNanchor_167" id="FNanchor_167" href="#Footnote_167" class="fnanchor">[167]</a> To the
+north of the Missouri on the borders of British North America,
+they are rivals of the American Company, and both parties
+endeavour to draw over the Indians to their side. But as
+no white settlers have yet penetrated to those remote and
+desolate regions, the American Company rules <i>there</i> alone,
+by its commercial stations and its numerous servants, the
+goods with which they carry on the trade having become
+necessary even to the most dangerous Indian tribes; for this
+reason foreign travellers cannot expect to succeed in their
+enterprises without the consent and assistance of this
+company.<a name="FNanchor_168" id="FNanchor_168" href="#Footnote_168" class="fnanchor">[168]</a></p>
+
+<p>At St. Louis I had become acquainted with several very
+interesting persons; Major Ofallon, having been formerly
+agent of the Indian nations on the Missouri, was well
+acquainted with the country, and assisted me with his
+advice, as well as Major Dougherty,<a name="FNanchor_169" id="FNanchor_169" href="#Footnote_169" class="fnanchor">[169]</a> now agent for the
+nations of the Pawnees, Otos, and the Joways: they both
+advised me, as the only practicable means of visiting those
+countries with safety, to join the American Fur Company,
+and to obtain from the <span class="opage">111</span> directors a passage on board
+their steam-boat. Fully appreciating the value of this
+counsel, I endeavoured to become acquainted with Mr.
+Pierre Chouteau, who directed the affairs of the company
+at St. Louis, and with Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, who usually lived on
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span>
+the Upper Missouri, and was now on the point of proceeding
+on board the steamer to Fort Union, at the mouth of the
+Yellow Stone River. Both gentlemen received me with
+great politeness, and readily acceded to my request.<a name="FNanchor_170" id="FNanchor_170" href="#Footnote_170" class="fnanchor">[170]</a></p>
+
+<p>Our necessaries for this journey,<a name="FNanchor_171" id="FNanchor_171" href="#Footnote_171" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> and many small articles
+for bartering with the Indians, were procured and
+placed on board the Yellow Stone steamer. General Clarke
+favoured me with his advice, as well as several other gentlemen,
+particularly Major Pilcher,<a name="FNanchor_172" id="FNanchor_172" href="#Footnote_172" class="fnanchor">[172]</a> who had penetrated far
+into the Indian territory to the Rocky Mountains, while he
+was a member of the Missouri Fur Company; likewise
+Messrs. Sanford and Bean, the former of whom was agent
+for the Crows, Mandans, Assiniboines, Manitaries and
+Blackfeet, and the latter for the Puncas and Sioux.<a name="FNanchor_173" id="FNanchor_173" href="#Footnote_173" class="fnanchor">[173]</a> All
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span>
+these persons, who were well acquainted with the Indian
+territory, were to accompany us up the Missouri to their
+several stations. Major Ofallon, whom we visited at his
+pleasant country seat, near St. Louis, had the kindness to
+furnish me with the map of the course of the Missouri, by
+Lewis and Clarke, on a large scale.<a name="FNanchor_174" id="FNanchor_174" href="#Footnote_174" class="fnanchor">[174]</a> We found at his
+house an interesting collection of Indian articles, and a great
+number of Indian scenes by Catlin, a painter from New
+York, who had travelled in 1831 to Fort Union.</p>
+
+<p>Before we left St. Louis, another deputation of Saukie
+Indians arrived from the Lower Missouri, who held councils
+with General Clarke. They came down the Missouri in
+long double canoes. Among them were several very strong,
+robust men, who, when they were in liquor, were dreadfully
+savage and wild. One of their most distinguished warriors,
+who was remarkable for a curved nose, exactly such as we
+see in the Mexican sculptures, suffered severely from consumption;
+his family seemed much concerned about him;
+the women sat around him and lamented. The time passed
+rapidly in observing these interesting people, till the 10th
+of April, which was the day fixed for our departure.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER X</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY FROM ST. LOUIS TO THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH,
+OR TO THE BORDERS OF THE SETTLEMENT, FROM THE 10TH
+TO THE 22ND OF APRIL</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Departure from St. Louis&mdash;The Engag�s, or Voyageurs&mdash;St. Charles&mdash;Gasconade
+River&mdash;Osage River&mdash;Jefferson City&mdash;Boonville
+and Franklin&mdash;Arrow Rock&mdash;Chariton&mdash;Grand River&mdash;Battle
+of the Missouri Indians&mdash;Fire Prairie&mdash;Dangerous place and situation
+of the vessel&mdash;Fort Osage&mdash;The Osages&mdash;Liberty&mdash;Quicksands&mdash;Konzas
+River&mdash;Boundary of the United States&mdash;The
+Konzas Indians&mdash;Pilcher's Expeditions&mdash;Little Platte River&mdash;Dwelling
+of the Joways&mdash;Diamond Island&mdash;Cantonment of
+Leavenworth.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th of April, at eleven o'clock, all our company
+having collected, the Yellow Stone left St. Louis; Mr. Pierre
+Chouteau, and several ladies of his family, accompanied us
+to St. Charles.<a name="FNanchor_175" id="FNanchor_175" href="#Footnote_175" class="fnanchor">[175]</a> Some guns were fired, as a signal, on our
+departure, on which numbers of the inhabitants assembled
+on the shore, among them the Saukies and some half-civilized
+Kikapoo Indians. Mr. Bodmer made some interesting
+sketches of the former, of which the plate gives a specimen.<a name="FNanchor_176" id="FNanchor_176" href="#Footnote_176" class="fnanchor">[176]</a>
+There were about 100 persons on board the Yellow Stone,
+most of whom were those called <i>engag�s</i>, or <i>voyageurs</i>, who
+are the lowest class of servants of the Fur Company. Most
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span>
+of them are French Canadians, or descendants of the French
+settlers on the Mississippi and Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the river above St. Louis did not differ
+from that already described. The red-bud (<i>Cercis Canadensis</i>)
+appeared as underwood in the forests, covered with
+dark red blossoms before the appearance of the leaves,
+which form red stripes along the shore, and make a pleasing
+contrast with the young, bright green leaves of the willows.
+At noon, Reaumur's thermometer on board was at +17��.
+We had soon passed the 16� miles to the mouth of the Missouri,<a name="FNanchor_177" id="FNanchor_177" href="#Footnote_177" class="fnanchor">[177]</a>
+but before we entered it, we lay to, on the Illinois
+side, to take in wood. The Yellow Stone entered <span class="opage">113</span> the
+Missouri, which, at its mouth, is about the same breadth
+as the Mississippi at this place. In the afternoon we reached,
+on the S. W. side, Belle Fontaine, a rather decayed building
+belonging to the military station established, in 1803, against
+the Indians, but which was subsequently abandoned. The
+current of the river runs here at the rate of five miles an hour;
+on the left bank there is a chain of calcareous hills with the
+same singular forms of towers, &amp;c. as on the Mississippi.
+The bushes of wild plums were covered with snow-white
+blossoms, and those of the <i>Cercis Canadensis</i>, with their red
+flowers; and I could not help remarking that, in this country,
+most of the trees and bushes have their flowers before their
+leaves. On the beach the inhabitants had fixed fishing rods,
+which they examined, from time to time, and we saw them
+take up a large cat-fish. Towards evening the lofty plane
+trees, with their white branches, were beautifully tinged with
+the setting sun. We passed several islands, which showed
+us the usual formation of these accumulations of sand, which
+arise rapidly, and are often as rapidly destroyed. Against
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span>
+the stream they generally have a naked, sandy point, with
+layers of thick, heavy timber; young willows grow first, then
+poplars, and, lastly, hard timber. In many places in the
+forests, and between the willows, we observed the high rushes
+(<i>Equisetum hyemale</i>) which are said to be injurious to the
+horses, unless salt is given them with it.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning we reached St. Charles, on the N. E. shore,
+one of the oldest French settlements on the Missouri, consisting
+of about 300 houses, where the massive church, with
+its low tower, has a very good appearance. The environs
+of this scattered village are rather bare, but there were many
+European fruit trees in blossom. Most of the houses are
+built of wood, but a modern part of the place is of brick. On
+an eminence rising behind it, stands an old stone tower,
+which formerly served as a defence against the Indians.
+We lay to, opposite St. Charles, where Messrs. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie
+and Dougherty joined us, and M. Chouteau and his family
+took leave, and returned to St. Louis. After stopping a few
+hours, we continued our voyage till a storm of wind filled
+the air with sand, from the sand banks, and compelled us to
+stop after twelve o'clock, above the whirlpool, called Remoux
+� Baguette;<a name="FNanchor_178" id="FNanchor_178" href="#Footnote_178" class="fnanchor">[178]</a> towards dark, however, we reached Isle au
+Bon Homme, in the vicinity of which we passed the night.
+On the 12th of April, the original forms of the calcareous rocks
+again appeared, with the red cedar, as usual, growing upon
+them. The hills were covered with forests, where many
+trees were putting forth leaves, especially the very delicate
+green foliage of the sugar maple. A cavern at this place
+is called the Tavern Rock (Taverne de Montardis), and on
+both sides of the river were numerous snags, which often
+prove dangerous to vessels. Near some habitations the European
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span>
+peach trees were in blossom; among the strange forms
+of the rocks, I saw one flattened at the top like a table, on
+a thin stem, and quite isolated. The country is here pretty
+well peopled, and game is rather rare in the forests, at least
+we were told that stags, bears, and wild turkeys were not
+often found there. The people settle on the eminences,
+rather than below on the bank of the river, where the air is
+<span class="opage">114</span> said to be less salubrious. The inundations of the
+river form marshes on the low grounds, which, being protected
+from the sun by the surrounding trees, produce fevers.
+Flint, in his History and Geography of the Mississippi Valley,<a name="FNanchor_179" id="FNanchor_179" href="#Footnote_179" class="fnanchor">[179]</a>
+gives a very good account of the climate and diseases of
+this country. We passed Isle and Rivi�re au B&oelig;uf, as well
+as the village of Pinkney;<a name="FNanchor_180" id="FNanchor_180" href="#Footnote_180" class="fnanchor">[180]</a> observed very picturesque rocky
+scenes, climbing plants, which twined round overthrown
+broken trunks of trees, and gloomy ravines, which were now
+full of the bright green young leaves that were everywhere
+sprouting forth. The Yellow Stone had several times struck
+against submerged trunks of trees, but it was purposely
+built very strong, for such dangerous voyages. This was
+its third voyage up the Missouri. The Fur Company possess
+another steamer called the Assiniboin which had left St. Louis
+to go up the Missouri before us.<a name="FNanchor_181" id="FNanchor_181" href="#Footnote_181" class="fnanchor">[181]</a> At night-fall we lay to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>
+on the right bank, where a cheerful fire of large logs was
+soon made, round which our <i>engag�s</i> assembled and chatted
+incessantly in French. We spent part of the night with
+Messrs. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, Dougherty, and Sanford, under the canopy
+of the starry heavens, while a couple of clarionets, on
+board the vessel, played Scotch airs and the famous "Yankee-doodle."</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 13th of April, the weather was
+serene and cool, the thermometer, at eight in the morning,
++5� Reaum., and at noon, +9�. We had lain to, for
+the night, near Otter Island,<a name="FNanchor_182" id="FNanchor_182" href="#Footnote_182" class="fnanchor">[182]</a> and soon saw before us the
+country about Gasconade River. There were extensive sand
+banks on the left hand, picturesque hills, many pleasing
+gradations of tint in the forests; an island, on the surface of
+which we distinctly saw the layer of black mould, six feet
+thick, with sand beneath it; further from the left bank a chain
+of hills, valleys, and eminences, covered with high trees,
+which were just beginning to put forth leaves, all illumined
+by the beams of the brightest morning sun. Near the Gasconade,
+where we took in wood, many interesting plants were
+in blossom. The Gasconade, which is an inconsiderable
+river, and rises not far from the source of the Merrimack, in
+the State of Missouri, expands behind a high, bold eminence,
+the summit of which is covered with rocks and red
+cedars. The hills near it are frequently covered with the
+white and the yellow pine, which supply St. Louis with
+boards and timber for building. Its mouth, which is reckoned
+to be 100 miles from that of the Missouri, is picturesquely
+situated in a lofty forest. Near it, our hunters fired
+unsuccessfully at a flock of wild turkeys. We soon passed
+the village of Portland; then the mouth of Little-Au-Vase
+Creek, where we observed, in the woods, the young leaves
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span>
+of the buck-eye trees (<i>Pavia</i>) which grew in great abundance.<a name="FNanchor_183" id="FNanchor_183" href="#Footnote_183" class="fnanchor">[183]</a>
+A little further on, the Osage River appears between
+wooded banks: it is a small stream, in which, according
+to Warden, many soft-shelled tortoises are found: we
+came then to C�te-Sans-Dessein, an old French settlement
+of six or eight houses, celebrated for the brave defence made
+by a few men against a numerous body of Indians. It must
+have been formerly much more considerable, since Brackenridge
+calls it a beautiful place.<a name="FNanchor_184" id="FNanchor_184" href="#Footnote_184" class="fnanchor">[184]</a> The river has destroyed it,
+and it is now quite insignificant. Opposite to it, on the left
+bank, further up the country, there <span class="opage">115</span> are many originally
+French families, and half-breeds, descendants of the Osage
+Indians, who formerly dwelt in these parts. While Mr.
+Bennett, the master of our vessel, landed to visit his family,
+who lived here, we botanized on the opposite bank, where
+oaks of many kinds were in blossom, and where the Monocotyledonous
+plant is found, which is called here Adam and
+Eve. Its roots consist of two bulbs joined together, of
+which it is said that, when thrown into the water, one swims
+and the other sinks. It is held to be a good cure for wounds.
+The flower was just beginning to appear.</p>
+
+<p>From C�te-Sans-Dessein, you soon come to Jefferson City,
+on the south bank of the Missouri, the capital, as it is
+called of the State of Missouri, where the governor resides.<a name="FNanchor_185" id="FNanchor_185" href="#Footnote_185" class="fnanchor">[185]</a>
+It is at present only a village, with a couple of short streets,
+and some detached buildings on the bank of the river. The
+governor's house is in front, on the top of the bank, and is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span>
+a plain brick building of moderate size. The gentle eminences,
+on which the place was built about ten years ago,
+are now traversed by fences, and the stumps of the felled
+trees are everywhere seen.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 14th of April was clear but cool; at
+8 o'clock +8�, a thick mist rising from the river. On a
+wooded eminence, on the left hand, at some distance from
+the bank, is a high, isolated rock, which stands like a tower
+in the forest. Major Dougherty, once passing this place
+with some Joway Indians, was told by them, that there was
+a tradition among their ancestors, that this rock was formed
+of the dung of a race of bisons, which lived in heaven, but
+they themselves no longer believed this fable. The Manito
+rocks, two isolated blocks, about fifty feet high, which have
+been mentioned by many travellers, appear below, on the
+bank of the river. They are mentioned in the account of
+Major Long's Expedition, which contains much information
+respecting the Missouri, as far as Council Bluff, to which
+I refer. We learn from that work, that almost all these
+calcareous rocks of the Missouri contain organic remains,
+encrinites, &amp;c. On the rocks, which are divided by ravines
+into broad rounded shapes, like towers, the Virginia
+red cedar grows, and falcons build their nests. We see here
+on the rocky walls red spots, strokes and figures, remaining
+from the times when the Indians dwelt here: two towering
+overhanging rocks, in which there are several caves, put me
+in mind of the ruins of the castle of Heidelburg. Just before
+dinner we reached Rockport, a village founded two
+years ago, on the Manito River, six miles up which river
+Columbia is situated.<a name="FNanchor_186" id="FNanchor_186" href="#Footnote_186" class="fnanchor">[186]</a> Near this place there are again
+many red figures on the rocky walls, among others that of a
+man with uplifted arms; not thirty years have elapsed since
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span>
+this whole country was in the possession of the Indians.
+After passing Manito and Bonne Femme Creek, we stopped
+at the village of Boonville on the left bank, opposite which
+is Old Franklin.<a name="FNanchor_187" id="FNanchor_187" href="#Footnote_187" class="fnanchor">[187]</a> As this place was threatened by the
+river, and is besides in an unhealthy situation, the people
+founded New Franklin, rather further inland, now a thriving
+village, near which salt springs have been discovered. We
+afterwards passed the mouth of La Mine River, which is
+about equal to the Lahn, and lay to for the night at Arrow
+Rock (Pierre � fl�che), a chain in which <span class="opage">116</span> flint is found,
+of which the Indians formerly made the heads of their arrows.
+In a ravine, before Arrow Rock Hill, there is a new village,
+which was called New Philadelphia, though the inhabitants
+did not approve of this name.<a name="FNanchor_188" id="FNanchor_188" href="#Footnote_188" class="fnanchor">[188]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the following morning (April 15th), proceeding on
+our voyage, we passed little Arrow Rock, and found a very
+fertile and rather populous country. Near the mouth of
+Chariton River, there are several islands, covered with willows,
+poplar, and hard timber. The river here makes a
+considerable bend; the numerous sand banks did not permit
+us to proceed in a direct line, but compelled us to take
+the narrow channel, at the outer edge of the bend, and to
+take soundings continually, being in great danger of striking
+against the snags. Some parts of the banks were rent in
+a remarkable manner by the rapid stream, when the water
+was high. In many places, large masses, fifteen or eighteen
+feet in height, had sunk down, with poplars thirty or forty
+feet high, as well as entire fields of maize, and piles of timber,
+which form together a wild scene of devastation, to which
+the broken poplars not a little contributed.</p>
+
+<p>The drift wood on the sand bank, consisting of the trunks
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span>
+of large timber trees, forms a scene characteristic of the
+North American rivers; at least I saw nothing like it in
+Brazil, where most of the rivers rise in the primeval mountains,
+or flow through more solid ground. On the banks
+which we now passed, the drifted trunks of trees were in many
+places already covered with sand; a border of willows and
+poplars was before the forest, and it is among these willow
+bushes that the Indians usually lie in ambush, when they
+intend to attack those who tow their vessels up the river by
+long ropes. At five o'clock in the afternoon we reached the
+mouth of Grand River, which was then very shallow, almost
+as broad as the Wabash. The Yellow Stone nearly run
+aground at the mouth of this river, and stirred up the sand
+so as to discolour the water. The Joway Indians dwelt on
+the Grand River till 1827, when they removed to Little
+Platte River.<a name="FNanchor_189" id="FNanchor_189" href="#Footnote_189" class="fnanchor">[189]</a> They continue, however, like the Saukies
+and Foxes, to hunt in the prairies at its source, where buffaloes,
+elks, and stags, are said to be still pretty numerous.
+The first of these Indians called the Grand River, Nischna-Honja;
+and the Missouri, Nischna-Dja:&mdash;Ni, in their language,
+means water, and Nischna, the river.<a name="FNanchor_190" id="FNanchor_190" href="#Footnote_190" class="fnanchor">[190]</a></p>
+
+<p>We lay to, for the night, beyond Waconda Creek.<a name="FNanchor_191" id="FNanchor_191" href="#Footnote_191" class="fnanchor">[191]</a> Our
+hunters dispersed into the neighbouring woods and plantations,
+but they only shot some parrots. On the 16th,
+in the morning, we had, on the left bank, undulating hills,
+thinly covered with trees, and on the bank were strata of
+limestone. Here is the mouth of the stream, the Bonnet
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span>
+de B&oelig;uf, which, doubtless, has its name from the caps, with
+ox horns, which the Indians, who formerly dwelt here, wore
+in their dances. Some highly dangerous submerged snags
+left only a very narrow channel open for our vessel. At
+ten <span class="opage">117</span> o'clock we came to some excessively dangerous
+parts, where our vessel frequently struck, and we were
+obliged to stop the engine, and to push by poles. The vessel
+stuck fast in the sand, and it was necessary to fasten it
+to the trees on the bank till it could be got afloat again.
+At this point the great forests begin to be interrupted by
+open places, or prairies, and we were at the part called Fox
+Prairie, where the Saukie and Fox Indians, and, perhaps,
+some other nations,<a name="FNanchor_192" id="FNanchor_192" href="#Footnote_192" class="fnanchor">[192]</a> formerly attacked, and nearly extirpated
+the tribe of the Missouris. The remainder of the
+people saved themselves among the Otos, on the southwest
+banks, where their descendants still live, mingled with
+the natives. The Missouris came down the river in many
+canoes, and their enemies had concealed themselves in the
+willow thickets. After the Missouris, who suspected no
+evil, had been killed or wounded with arrows, the victors
+leaped into the water, and finished their bloody work with
+clubs and knives: very few of the Missouris escaped.<a name="FNanchor_193" id="FNanchor_193" href="#Footnote_193" class="fnanchor">[193]</a></p>
+
+<p>To-day we saw, for the first time, from the deck of our
+vessel, the prairies of the Lower Missouri covered with luxuriant
+young grass, but the air was misty, and bounded our
+prospect. In the afternoon we took in fuel at Webb's warehouse;
+the river was here again covered with wood, which
+so greatly impeded our progress, that we were obliged to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span>
+lay to for the night, seven miles above Webb's warehouse.
+In the morning of the 17th we saw only an uninterrupted
+forest; in the course of the day we again encountered much
+danger from the quantity of snags, which, in some places,
+scarcely left a channel of ten feet in breadth; but our pilot
+steered, with great dexterity, between all these dangers,
+where many a smaller vessel had been wrecked. During
+this hazardous navigation, we were all on deck, anxiously
+expecting the result, but everything went off well. We afterwards
+sounded, sought another channel, but proceeded very
+slowly, so that we only passed Fire Prairie,<a name="FNanchor_194" id="FNanchor_194" href="#Footnote_194" class="fnanchor">[194]</a> and lay to
+for the night, five miles below Fort Osage.</p>
+
+<p>Our engine was broken, so that we could not proceed
+till the next morning (18th April). On that morning I had
+the misfortune to break my last Reaumur's thermometer,
+so that, henceforth, all the observations of the temperature
+are according to Fahrenheit's scale. Some of my people,
+attracted by the cries of the wild turkeys, were tempted to
+land, but returned without having met with any success. I
+happened to have taken no piece with me, which I much regretted,
+for a wild turkey-cock came out of a bush about ten
+paces from me, and stood still, looking at me, while his
+splendid feathers shone in the sun. Vegetation was rather
+backward. A large flock of sandhill cranes, taking their course
+to the north-east, filled the air with their cries; their note is
+very similar to that of the European crane. After the people
+had returned on board, at the repeated summons of the bell,
+we proceeded on our voyage, but were soon obliged to take
+soundings, and to saw off some dangerous snags; we then
+landed twenty men on a sand bank, to tow the <span class="opage">118</span> steamer,
+but their efforts broke the rope, and they all tumbled one
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span>
+upon another, to the great amusement of those on board.
+By way of precaution, our vessel was fastened to a large tree,
+which proved our safety, for the rudder was soon afterwards
+deranged, and rendered unserviceable. It was repaired
+about two o'clock, but we soon run aground on a sand bank,
+where we were obliged to remain all night, in a rather unsafe
+situation, for the current, on the bank, was very strong,
+and we could not fasten the vessel to anything, so that we
+might easily have been carried down the stream; the river,
+however, continued to subside. On the morning of the 19th
+a flat boat was procured, to lighten our vessel, by landing
+a part of the cargo, which was piled up in the wood, on the
+bank, and covered with cloths. Mr. Bodmer made a faithful
+sketch of this scene.<a name="FNanchor_195" id="FNanchor_195" href="#Footnote_195" class="fnanchor">[195]</a></p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon, the crew had got the
+steamer off the sand bank into deeper water, on the right,
+a little below the mouth of Fishing Creek.<a name="FNanchor_196" id="FNanchor_196" href="#Footnote_196" class="fnanchor">[196]</a> Here our anchors,
+boats, &amp;c., were taken on board, and three men left
+to take care of the landed goods, which consisted of the
+presents for the Indians in Major Dougherty's agency. The
+flat boat was sent back to its owner, on Fishing Creek, under
+the care of thirty men, who had to wade in the water to
+keep it afloat. After taking in fuel, for which the wood of
+the red mulberry and the ash is preferred, we proceeded
+slowly, and reached, at dusk, the hill, on the right bank,
+where Fort Osage, built, in 1808, by Governor Lewis, formerly
+stood. The ridge on which it was situated is free
+from wood, and cultivated, and the last posts and beams
+were taken away by the people in the neighbourhood. This
+part of the country was the chief abode of the Osages. Only
+ten years ago they were still at C�te-Sans-Dessein. They
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span>
+are peaceably disposed towards the Americans; and the
+Fur Company have trading posts in their territory. The
+whole tract, from the Osage River, through which we have
+passed, was formerly theirs, but they sold a part of it to
+the United States, and they are now entirely forced back
+into the prairies, on the river Arkansas.<a name="FNanchor_197" id="FNanchor_197" href="#Footnote_197" class="fnanchor">[197]</a></p>
+
+<p>We lay to, for the night, a short distance below Fort Osage.
+On the 20th, in the morning, Blue Water River was hid
+from us, by a long island, on the steep banks of which large
+snags, covered with sand and earth, projecting very far,
+formed a threatening point.<a name="FNanchor_198" id="FNanchor_198" href="#Footnote_198" class="fnanchor">[198]</a> We had scarcely passed it,
+when we run aground on a sand bank. The engine was
+immediately backed; but the current carried the vessel so
+close to the above point, that it tore away our side gallery
+with a great crash. The carpenter soon repaired it, and
+our progress was now more favourable. At noon we had
+68�� Fahrenheit. At this time a thunder-storm arose, accompanied
+with hail and rain. The rain continued to fall in
+torrents till we reached the landing-place of the village of
+Liberty, which is at some distance from the river.<a name="FNanchor_199" id="FNanchor_199" href="#Footnote_199" class="fnanchor">[199]</a> Some
+buildings and detached houses were situated on the bank, in
+front of the wooded mountains, where the vigorous vegetation,
+refreshed by the rain, was very brilliant. The tall,
+slender, forest trees, grow among picturesque rocks; the
+beautiful flowers of the red bud tree, bright green moss, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span>
+a thick carpet of verdure, chiefly consisting <span class="opage">119</span> of the leaves
+of the May-apple (<i>Podophyllum</i>), everywhere covered the
+mountains. The papaw trees were just opening their buds.
+This is about the northern limit for the growth of this
+tree. Some keel-boats were lying here, belonging to the
+Fur Company of Messrs. Ashley and Soublette, which was
+just established as a rival to the American Fur Company.<a name="FNanchor_200" id="FNanchor_200" href="#Footnote_200" class="fnanchor">[200]</a>
+In the pay of these gentlemen, there were, in the boats,
+about ten Germans, who had engaged in this service, for
+which they were not well qualified, and were, besides, wholly
+inexperienced in the mode of trading with the Indians. We
+next reached the mouth of the Blue Water River, the clear
+blue waters of which formed a great contrast to those of
+the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_201" id="FNanchor_201" href="#Footnote_201" class="fnanchor">[201]</a> We were here joined by a couple of canoes,
+with some Canadian <i>engag�s</i> from the Upper Missouri, who
+brought to Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie news from Fort Union, at the
+mouth of the Yellow Stone River. Their half Indian costume,
+which is usually worn, was new to us. One of them,
+named Defond, a tall, slender, brown man, was a half-breed
+Indian, and one of the best and most experienced pilots of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>
+the Missouri. Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie had sent for him to steer our
+vessel up the river, and he fully justified his reputation.
+He was likewise a sportsman, and brought us several turkeys
+which had been lately shot. Before evening we became
+acquainted with the quicksands of the Missouri. These
+are sand banks which are so soft that one immediately sinks
+in them. We saw an ox, which went deeper at every motion,
+while nobody could afford it any assistance.</p>
+
+<p>On the next morning (21st April), we reached the mouth
+of the river Konza, or Konzas, called by the French, Rivi�re
+des Cans, which is not quite so broad as the Wabash, and
+was now very shallow. Its clear green water was distinguished
+by a well-defined, undulating line, from the muddy
+stream of the Missouri. The steam-boat has navigated the
+Konzas about seven miles upward, to a trading-post of the
+American Fur Company, which is now under the direction
+of a brother of Mr. P. Chouteau.<a name="FNanchor_202" id="FNanchor_202" href="#Footnote_202" class="fnanchor">[202]</a> It is said that this
+country formerly abounded in beavers, but their numbers
+are much diminished. At the point of land between the
+Konzas and the Missouri, is the boundary which separates
+the United States from the territory of the free Indians.
+It runs directly from south to north, comes from the territory
+of the Osages, passes the Osage River, and goes northward
+from the Missouri, parallel to the Little Platte River, to
+Weeping Water River, which falls into the Missouri, whence
+it runs eastward to the Des-Moines and the Mississippi.
+About 500 or 600 paces from the mouth of the Konzas,
+the banks of the river consist of high yellow clay walls, in
+the forest; and near it live the remnants of several Indian
+tribes, which were driven or dislodged from the States to
+the east of the Mississippi, to whom land was assigned in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span>
+these parts. Among them were the Delawares, Shawnees,
+Miamis, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding 90 or 100 miles up the river, you come to the
+villages of the Konzas (Cans, of the French), the best accounts
+of whom are given by Mr. Say in the narrative of
+Mr. Long's travels.<a name="FNanchor_203" id="FNanchor_203" href="#Footnote_203" class="fnanchor">[203]</a> These people formerly lived nearer
+to the Missouri, but have gradually retired from it. Their
+language is entirely the same as that of the Osages, and
+the language of these two people <span class="opage">120</span> is only a dialect,
+originally not different from that of the Omahas and Puncas,
+being distinguished only by the pronunciation, and not by
+its roots. At present the Konzas inhabit the tract on both
+sides of the river of the same name, and its tributaries, and
+they make excursions into the prairies of the Arkansas.</p>
+
+<p>We were now in the free Indian territory, and felt much
+more interested in looking at the forests, because we might
+expect to meet with some of their savage inhabitants. We
+examined the country with a telescope, and had the satisfaction
+of seeing the first Indian, on a sand bank, wrapped
+in his blanket; but our attention was soon called to the obstacles
+on the river: we avoided one dangerous place, where
+the Missouri was so full of trunks of trees that we were
+forced to put back; but at noon, when the thermometer was
+at 75�, we got among drift wood, which broke some of the
+paddles of our wheels, so that it was necessary to stop the
+engine. Forty-two of our men, most of whom had been
+out with their fowling-pieces, came on board. Among
+them was Dr. Fellowes, a young physician, going to the
+cantonment at Leavenworth.</p>
+
+<p>The underwood of the forest consisted chiefly of <i>Laurus
+benzoin</i> and <i>Cercis Canadensis</i>; the ground was covered
+with <i>Equisetum hyemale</i>, from one and a half to two feet
+high. Limestone everywhere stood out; large blocks of it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span>
+were on the bank. The Little Platte River here falls into
+the Missouri. On the northern bank, seven miles up that
+river, are the villages of the Joway Indians, who speak the
+same language as the Ottowas.<a name="FNanchor_204" id="FNanchor_204" href="#Footnote_204" class="fnanchor">[204]</a> They inhabit and hunt
+the country about the Little Platte, Nadaway, Nishnebottoneh
+Rivers, together with a band of the Saukies, who have
+settled in this neighbourhood. A couple of Shawnee Indians
+stood on the high bank, and made us friendly signs. We
+halted, for the night, near Diamond Island; our people cut
+down some trees, and kindled a large fire, which illumined
+the tall forests.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, 22nd of April, was warm and cheerful,
+the thermometer being at 64�� Fahrenheit, at half-past
+seven o'clock. About six, we passed several islands, separated
+by narrow channels, where our pilot steered so close
+to the left bank that the hens which we had on board flew
+to the land.<a name="FNanchor_205" id="FNanchor_205" href="#Footnote_205" class="fnanchor">[205]</a> We soon came to a place where most of the
+trees were cut down, and we were not a little surprised at
+the sight of a sentinel. It was the landing-place of the cantonment
+Leavenworth, a military post, where four companies
+of the sixth regiment of infantry of the line, about 120
+men, under Major Ryley, were stationed to protect the Indian
+boundary.<a name="FNanchor_206" id="FNanchor_206" href="#Footnote_206" class="fnanchor">[206]</a> There were also 100 rangers, who are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span>
+mounted and armed militia, who are well acquainted with
+Indian warfare.</p>
+
+<p>We were stopped at this place, and our vessel searched
+for brandy, the importation of which, into the Indian territory,
+is prohibited;<a name="FNanchor_207" id="FNanchor_207" href="#Footnote_207" class="fnanchor">[207]</a> they would scarcely permit us to take
+a small portion to preserve our specimens of natural history.
+Major Dougherty rejoined us here, and brought with him
+several Kickapoo Indians who had come from St. Louis to
+receive land in these parts.<a name="FNanchor_208" id="FNanchor_208" href="#Footnote_208" class="fnanchor">[208]</a> The <span class="opage">121</span> Kikapoos, and
+Delawares, and some other Indians, are settled at no great
+distance from this place; the officers of the garrison were
+on board the whole day, and our hunters rambled about
+the surrounding country. We saw, in the neighbourhood,
+the beautiful yellow-headed <i>Icterus xanthocephalus</i>. The
+black oak and other trees were in blossom, and many interesting
+plants. Near the bank, where the vessel lay, the beds
+of limestone were full of shells, of which we kept some
+specimens. Between these limestone strata there were,
+alternately, thin layers of dark bluish clay slate, which was
+not yet very hard.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER XI</p>
+
+<p class="center">JOURNEY FROM THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH TO THE PUNCA
+INDIANS, FROM APRIL 22ND TO MAY 12TH</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Dangerous place, Wassoba-Wakandaga&mdash;Independence River&mdash;Blacksnake
+Hills, with Roubedoux Trading House&mdash;The Joways
+and Saukies&mdash;Nadaway River&mdash;Wolf River&mdash;Grand Nemahaw
+River&mdash;Country of the Half-breeds&mdash;Nishnebottoneh River&mdash;Little
+Nemahaw River&mdash;Violent Storm&mdash;Weeping-water Creek&mdash;La
+Platte River&mdash;Belle Vue, Dougherty's Agency&mdash;The Omaha
+Indians&mdash;Their Dance&mdash;Council Bluffs&mdash;Boyer's Creek&mdash;Little
+Sioux River&mdash;Blackbird Hills&mdash;Floyd's Grave&mdash;Big Sioux
+River&mdash;Joway River&mdash;Vermilion Creek&mdash;Jacques River&mdash;The
+Punca Indians&mdash;Meeting with the Assiniboin Steamer.</p>
+
+<p>The Yellow Stone left the cantonment at five in the afternoon
+of the 22nd of April, and we soon reached the narrow
+part of the river called, by the Osages and Konzas, Wassoba-Wakandaga
+(Bear-Medicine).<a name="FNanchor_209" id="FNanchor_209" href="#Footnote_209" class="fnanchor">[209]</a> There were so many trunks
+of trees in the river that it seemed very problematical whether
+we should be able to pass between them. Our people cut
+off some of the most dangerous branches below water, and
+got our vessel gradually through; soon after which we lay
+to for the night.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, 23rd of April brought us a storm, with
+thunder, but without lightning. Early in the morning a
+large branch of a tree, lying in the water, forced its way into
+the cabin, carried away part of the door case, and then broke
+off, and was left on the floor. After this accident, when
+one might have been crushed in bed, we came to Cow Island,
+where, in 1818, some troops, on their way to Council Bluff,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span>
+were overtaken by the frost, and obliged to pass the winter.<a name="FNanchor_210" id="FNanchor_210" href="#Footnote_210" class="fnanchor">[210]</a>
+At half-past seven o'clock, the temperature was 67�. The
+heat of the preceding day had greatly advanced vegetation;
+the forests were beautifully verdant, and there were many
+flowers. The Indians now make sugar from the maple.
+The Kikapoo Indians, whom we had seen at St. Louis, were
+to have lands assigned them in these parts, and their territory
+is said to extend to Independence River. There were
+no fixed Indian villages at that time, but the <span class="opage">123</span> Joways,
+Saukies, and Foxes hunt in these parts. We proceeded past
+Cow Island, which is six miles in length, and covered with
+poplars, and shave grass. The sand was marked by the
+footsteps of the stags which come here to drink, by which
+they tread down deep paths to the water's edge, and lick
+holes in the saline clay of the bank. Here began green hills
+without wood, which are the transition to the entirely naked
+prairie, as they at first alternate with woods, which grow
+in the ravines, and on the banks of the river. At twelve
+o'clock the thermometer was at 77�. Our navigation was
+attended with many difficulties to Independence River, the
+mouth of which is on the right bank; here we reached, on
+the same side of the river, naked grassy eminences, where
+a village of the Konzas formerly stood, and which is still
+usually marked in the maps. The Spaniards had a post
+of a few soldiers here.<a name="FNanchor_211" id="FNanchor_211" href="#Footnote_211" class="fnanchor">[211]</a> The soil is said to be very fertile
+and favourable to settlers. The forests were now in their
+greatest beauty, and began to afford some shade.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the 24th we saw the chain of the Blacksnake Hills,
+but we met with so many obstacles in the river that we did
+not reach them till towards the evening. They are moderate
+eminences, with many singular forms, with an alternation
+of wooded and open green spots. Near to the steep bank
+a trading house has been built, which was occupied by a
+man named Roubedoux, an agent of the Fur Company.<a name="FNanchor_212" id="FNanchor_212" href="#Footnote_212" class="fnanchor">[212]</a>
+This white house, surrounded by the bright green prairies,
+had a very neat appearance, and Mr. Bodmer sketched this
+pretty landscape, which had a beautiful effect of light and
+shade. It is only this part of the chain that is called Blacksnake
+Hills, for the chain itself is no other than that which
+we had long observed on the banks, of which there are two,
+one on each side, running parallel to each other, and forming
+the valley of the Missouri, more or less approaching to
+or receding from it. The river flows through the alluvial
+soil which it has thrown up, and which is changed, every
+year, crossing from one chain to the other, and, where it
+reaches the chain, produces high banks by the shock.</p>
+
+<p>When the steam-boat lay to, between 500 or 600 paces
+from the trading house, some of the <i>engag�s</i> of the company
+came on board, and reported that the Joway Indians, whose
+village was about five or six miles distant, had made an
+incursion into the neighbouring territory of the Omahas,
+and killed six of these Indians, and brought in a woman
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span>
+and child as prisoners, whom they offered for sale. Major
+Dougherty, to whose agency the Joways belong, immediately
+landed to rescue the prisoners, accompanied by Major Bean
+and Mr. Bodmer, but they returned, at eleven o'clock at
+night, without having accomplished their object, because
+the Joways, fearing his reproaches, had completely intoxicated
+both themselves and their prisoners.<a name="FNanchor_213" id="FNanchor_213" href="#Footnote_213" class="fnanchor">[213]</a> Mr. Bodmer
+brought some beautiful plants from the prairie, among which
+were <span class="opage">124</span> the fine orange-coloured flowers of the <i>Batschia
+canescens</i>, which we here saw for the first time.</p>
+
+<p>On the forenoon of the following day, the 25th, we passed
+the mouth of the Nadaway River,<a name="FNanchor_214" id="FNanchor_214" href="#Footnote_214" class="fnanchor">[214]</a> and met with many
+difficulties, so that we were even obliged to back for some
+distance, and landed our wood-cutters in Nadaway Island.
+A Captain Martin wintered on this island for two seasons,
+1818 and 1819, with three companies of riflemen.<a name="FNanchor_215" id="FNanchor_215" href="#Footnote_215" class="fnanchor">[215]</a> At
+that time there was so much game that they entirely subsisted
+on it. We were told that in one year they killed 1,600,
+in the other 1,800 head of game (<i>Cervus Virginianus</i>), besides
+elks and bears; and wounded, perhaps, as many more
+of those animals, which they were unable to take. The
+woods were very picturesque. The numerous horse-chestnuts
+were in full leaf; the white ash was in flower, as well as
+many species of pear and plum, which looked as if covered
+with snow, and formed a beautiful contrast with the red
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span>
+masses of the flower of the <i>Cercis</i>. The canal between
+Nadaway Island and the cantonment is called Nadaway
+Slew, at the end of which we saw the remains of some Indian
+huts. In a dark glen in the forest, we observed a long
+Indian hut, which occupied almost its whole breadth, and
+must have served for a great number of persons. The bald
+eagle had built its nest on many of the high trees on the
+bank. In some places we saw smoke rising in the forest;
+in others, the trees and the ground were burnt quite black.
+Such fires are sometimes caused by the Indians, in order
+to escape the pursuit of their enemies, and sometimes, also,
+by the agents of the fur traders. We were told that the
+forest was green, this year, a fortnight earlier than usual.
+We saw everywhere pairs of the beautiful <i>Anas sponsa</i>,
+which came out of the holes in the bank, where they doubtless
+had their nests. Before dusk we reached the mouth
+of Wolf River, where an eagle had built her nest. The Oto
+Indians, mixed with some Missouris, live in these parts, on
+the west bank of the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_216" id="FNanchor_216" href="#Footnote_216" class="fnanchor">[216]</a> They are allies of the
+Joways, and hunt as far as the river La Platte.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, April 26th, we saw great numbers
+of water fowl, and many wild geese with their woolly
+young; the parents never abandoned them, even when our
+people shot at them. The care and anxiety which these
+birds shewed for their young interested us much. We came
+to the mouth of the Grand Nemahaw river in a beautiful
+romantic country, from which, to the Little Nemahaw, the
+territory of the people called Half-breeds extends. Among
+the Omaha, Oto, Joway, and Yankton (Sioux) Indians,
+there lived from 150 to 200 of their descendants by white
+men, to whom they assigned this tract of land as their property.
+They had taken this resolution two years before, but
+had not yet carried it into execution. The land was given
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span>
+by the Otos to whom it belonged, and the other tribes bore
+part of the expenses. Towards noon, when the thermometer
+was at 27�, we again, several times touched the bottom,
+near Tarkio <span class="opage">125</span> River, but without receiving any injury.
+Picturesque forests alternate with the verdant alluvial banks
+of the river, and Indian hunting huts were everywhere seen,
+but no inhabitants. One may travel thousands of miles
+along this river without seeing a human being. From the
+mouth of the Nishnebottoneh to Council Bluffs, there is a
+narrow green prairie before the chain of hills; the mouth
+itself is between lofty trees on the east bank. In the wood
+below, Major Dougherty once killed twenty elks, all belonging
+to one troop. They had divided, and part broke into
+the ice in the river, where they fell a prey to the Otos who
+pursued them. Beavers formerly abounded in this river,
+but they are now extirpated. When the evening sun, gradually
+sinking behind the tall forest, illumined the whole
+country, we had a lovely view of the chain of hills, variously
+tinged with brilliant hues of violet, pink, and purple, while
+the broad mirror of the river and adjacent forest shone as
+if on fire. Silence reigned in these solitudes, the wind was
+hushed, and only the dashing and foaming of our steamboat
+interrupted the awful repose. We were disagreeably
+roused from our reverie by our vessel striking against the
+snags in the river. We passed the night near Morgan's
+Island, not far from which there was formerly a trading
+house for the Oto Indians, but it no longer existed.<a name="FNanchor_217" id="FNanchor_217" href="#Footnote_217" class="fnanchor">[217]</a> The
+note of the whip-poor-will, which we had not before met
+with, was heard in all the adjacent forests.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, proceeding on our voyage, we plainly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>
+observed in the steep banks of the river, the alternate strata
+of clay and sand, with a thick layer of fertile black mould
+at the top, and, about eight feet below the surface, a black
+stratum of bituminous coal, or coal slate, which we were,
+however, unable to examine closely. On the bank we saw
+what are called pumice stones, which are pieces of the rock
+of the Upper Missouri, changed by fire, and brought down
+by the river; the Indians use this pumice stone to smooth
+their tanned and hardened skins. At the mouth of the Little
+Nemahaw River, the Missouri was very shallow. Our vessel
+having received several violent shocks by striking, and a
+storm, accompanied by heavy rain, arising, we ran aground,
+about noon, on a sand bank, and were obliged to put out
+a boat to take soundings, but the wind, which blew with
+increasing violence from the open prairie on the south-west,
+drove us further into the sand bank. Every moment it
+became more furious; our vessel lay almost on her side,
+which the people endeavoured to counteract by fastening
+her with strong cables to the trees lying in the water. After
+dinner several of our hunters went on shore, but the boat
+had scarcely returned, when the storm suddenly increased
+to such a degree that the vessel appeared to be in imminent
+peril. One of our chimneys was thrown down, and the foredeck
+was considered in danger; the large coops, which contained
+a number of fowls, were blown overboard, and nearly
+all of them drowned. As they got upon the sand banks
+they were afterwards taken up, with other things which we
+had been obliged to throw overboard; our cables had, happily,
+held fast, and, as the wind abated a little, Captain Bennett
+hoped to lay the vessel close to the bank, which was
+twenty feet high, where it would be safe <span class="opage">126</span> but the storm
+again arose, and we got deeper and deeper into the sands.
+Some of our hunters and Mr. Bodmer appeared on the bank,
+and wanted to be taken on board, but the boat could not
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span>
+be sent, and they were obliged to seek shelter from the storm
+in the neighbouring forests. Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, and other
+persons acquainted with the Missouri, assured us they had
+never encountered so violent a storm in these parts. After
+four o'clock, however, the wind abated, and the boat was
+dispatched to pick up the articles we had lost.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we were obliged to lighten the ship
+before we could proceed, by landing the wood which we
+had taken in the previous day, and many other articles.
+Our vessel, however, soon ran aground again, and as we
+could not proceed, we made the vessel go backwards to the
+right bank, where we passed the night. In the preceding
+year the Yellow Stone had been detained five days at this
+place. Towards evening a flock of above 100 pelicans, flying
+northwards, passed over us. Their flight was in the
+form of a wedge, and sometimes of a semicircle. On the
+29th, we found sufficient water, and proceeded; a still larger
+flock of pelicans induced our <i>engag�s</i> to make use of their
+rifles, and they winged one of the birds, which strutted
+about on the shore, but we could not venture to take it.
+At half-past seven, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we were at a place called the Narrows
+of Nishnebottoneh; here, about thirty miles from its
+mouth, this river comes so near to the Missouri, that between
+both there is an interval of only 200 paces. The appearance
+of the chain of hills beyond the Nishnebottoneh is very
+remarkable.<a name="FNanchor_218" id="FNanchor_218" href="#Footnote_218" class="fnanchor">[218]</a> The calcareous rock is in very strange forms,
+sometimes like entrenchments and bastions, partly clothed
+with verdure, partly with dry yellow grass, and spotted with
+yellowish red clay. The soil is extremely fertile, and well
+adapted for agriculture; formerly there were hundreds of
+elks and stags in these parts, but they are now rarely
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span>
+met with. By a general agreement the Otos, Joway, Fox,
+and Saukie Indians hunt this country in common. Having
+been on shore for some time, I was returning to the
+vessel when the pilot called out that there was a rattlesnake
+very near me, the rattle of which he heard; I looked, and
+immediately found the animal, and having stunned it with
+some slight blows, I put it into a vessel in which there were
+already a live heterodon and a black snake, where it soon
+recovered. The three agreed very well together, but were
+afterwards put into a cask of brandy to go to Europe. This
+rattlesnake was of the species <i>Crotalus tergeminus</i>, first described
+by Say, which is very common on the Missouri.
+The water being too shallow, it was necessary partly to unload
+the vessel on a sand bank, and to stop for the night.
+On the morning of the 30th, many attempts were made to
+move from this spot; we sounded, put out thirty men, but
+were at last obliged to return to the place where we had
+passed the night. Messengers were then sent up the river
+to endeavour to procure a keelboat; meanwhile all our hunters
+went ashore. I found in the vicinity traces of the Indians,
+and large traces of wolves in the sand. A storm
+drove us back to the vessel, and soon drenched us with a
+torrent of rain. Our hunters killed a wild goose, a wood
+duck, and an owl, and brought a <span class="opage">127</span> black snake with
+them; one of them had broken off a piece of poison vine,
+by which his hands and face were much swollen; but the
+people here do not much mind such accidents, though the
+swelling frequently lasts many days.</p>
+
+<p>The 1st of May set in with rain and a clouded sky; the
+forests were dripping wet; during the night we had observed
+some fireflies. Numerous flocks of two kinds of swallows
+passed us, flying to the north. About noon a white cat-fish
+was caught by one of the lines which we had thrown
+out; a second broke the strong line as we were drawing it
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span>
+up. The first we had caught weighed sixty pounds, and
+we soon took another weighing sixty-five pounds, and a third
+weighing 100 lbs, in the jaws of which was the hook of
+the line that had been broken. In the stomach of this and
+the other cat-fish were found large pieces of pork, the bones
+of fowls, &amp;c., feet of geese, all refuse from the vessels; and
+likewise the entire gills of another large fish. A great number
+of leeches were attached to the gills of these fish. It is only
+on the Upper Missouri that this fish attains so large a size.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning the Missouri had risen a little.
+In the neighbouring thickets some birds were singing, or
+rather twittering, and there was nothing like the loud concert
+which, at this season of the year, animates the European
+forests. The Yellow Stone did not set out till near eleven
+o'clock. In the afternoon we came to some almost perpendicular
+hills on the bank, the base of which consisted of
+violet, the middle of bluish grey, the upper part of yellow
+red clay. In some places a whole colony of swallows had
+built against them. About the place where Weeping-water
+Creek opens, among beautiful thickets, before the
+green hills of the prairies, we met with great obstructions,
+and were several times obliged to put the vessel back. We
+reached Five Barrel Islands, in a broad part of the river,
+just when the evening sun gave a peculiar charm to the verdant
+landscape.<a name="FNanchor_219" id="FNanchor_219" href="#Footnote_219" class="fnanchor">[219]</a> The forest was picturesque but not very
+lofty; the bird cherry was in flower, but the blossoms of the
+red bud had lost their bright colour. Vines twined round the
+trunks of the trees, and the numerous blossoms of the phlox
+formed blue spots amongst the rocks. Towards night we
+met a canoe, with two persons on board, one of whom was
+M. Fontenelle, clerk to the Fur Company, who resided near
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span>
+at hand at Belle Vue. He was a man who had much experience
+in the trade with the Indians, and had often visited
+the Rocky Mountains. As he was shortly to undertake an
+expedition to the mountains, with a body of armed men, he
+turned back with us.<a name="FNanchor_220" id="FNanchor_220" href="#Footnote_220" class="fnanchor">[220]</a></p>
+
+<p>Early on the morning of the 3rd of May, we came to the
+hill called by the Otos and Omahas&mdash;Ischta Maso, or Ischta
+Manso (the iron eye). It is rather higher than the neighbouring
+hills, and a small stream of the same name runs
+from its side into the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_221" id="FNanchor_221" href="#Footnote_221" class="fnanchor">[221]</a> We were now near the
+month of La Platte River. Four or five miles before you
+come to the conflux, you distinguish the water of the two
+rivers by their colour, that of the La Platte being clear and
+green, and keeping unmixed on the western bank. A mile
+further up, the water was covered with foam, in <span class="opage">128</span> consequence
+of the heavy rains. In half an hour we came to
+the first mouth of the river, which is divided from the second
+by a low island, with gently rounded verdant hills in the
+back ground. The second mouth is the largest. There
+were large piles of drift wood on the sand bank, next the
+island. The river, which was much swollen, brought down
+wood and foam, and its waters, though, at present, not quite
+clear, yet still of a bluish tint, were plainly distinguished as
+they ran in a semicircular bend, from the yellowish, dirty
+water of the Missouri. After passing the sand bank at its
+mouth, we reached, in twenty minutes, Papilion Creek, and
+saw before us the green-wooded chain of hills with the buildings
+of Belle Vue, the agency of Major Dougherty. There
+were many sand banks in the river, on which there were
+numbers of wild geese, and some quite white birds, with
+black quill feathers&mdash;perhaps cranes or pelicans. At two
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span>
+in the afternoon we reached M. Fontenelle's dwelling, consisting
+of some buildings, with fine plantations of maize,
+and verdant wooded hills behind it. A part of the plantations
+belongs to the government. The prairie extends beyond
+the hills. The land is extremely fertile; even when
+negligently cultivated, it yields 100 bushels of maize per acre,
+but is said to produce much more when proper care is bestowed
+on it. The cattle thrive very well, and the cows give
+much milk, but some salt must now and then be given them.
+M. Fontenelle expected to possess, in a few years, 5,000 swine,
+if the Indians did not steal too many of them. The government
+of the United States bought of the Indians a great
+tract of land to the east of the Missouri, extending to Big
+Sioux River, but have hitherto left them in possession of
+this land.<a name="FNanchor_222" id="FNanchor_222" href="#Footnote_222" class="fnanchor">[222]</a></p>
+
+<p>Belle Vue, Mr. Dougherty's post, is agreeably situated.
+The direction of the river is north-west. Below, on the bank,
+there are some huts, and on the top the buildings of the
+agents, where a sub-agent, Major Beauchamp, a blacksmith,
+and some servants of the company, all lived with their families,
+who attend to the plantations and affairs of the company.
+These men were mostly married to women of the
+tribes of the Otos and Omahas; all, on our landing, immediately
+came on board. Their dress was of red or blue
+cloth, with a white border, and cut in the Indian fashion.
+Their faces were broad and coarse, their heads large and
+round, their breasts pendent, their teeth beautiful and white,
+their hands and feet small and delicate. Their children
+had dark brown hair, and agreeable features. Belle Vue
+was formerly a trading post of the Missouri Fur Company,
+on the dissolution of which it was bought by M. Fontenelle,
+who parted with it to the government, and was appointed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span>
+to the agency of the Otos, Omahas, Pawnees, and Joways.<a name="FNanchor_223" id="FNanchor_223" href="#Footnote_223" class="fnanchor">[223]</a>
+M. Fontenelle settled, as I have said, 600 or 800 paces further
+down the river. Here the Yellow Stone lay to, and
+we inspected the buildings of the agency, from which there
+is a very fine view of the river, especially from the summit
+of the hill, where the cemetery is situated. The rock here
+is limestone, with a great number of shells, of which, however,
+I could see only bivalves; but our time was too short
+to decide on this point.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">129</span> It was near this place that a marauding party
+of twelve Joways lately crossed the river, and pursued a
+defenceless company of Omahas, who had just left Belle
+Vue; and, having overtaken them three miles off, killed
+and plundered all of them, except some who were desperately
+wounded, and whom they believed to be dead. The
+victors returned by another way. A woman and a child
+recovered. Major Dougherty took leave of us at Belle Vue,
+intending to go to the Omahas, and appease the vengeance
+of that tribe. About five in the afternoon we also left, and
+were proceeding along the west bank, when we met two
+Mackinaw<a name="FNanchor_224" id="FNanchor_224" href="#Footnote_224" class="fnanchor">[224]</a> boats, which had been obtained for our vessel
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span>
+by a boat which we had sent before. On the same bank
+we suddenly saw three Omaha Indians, who crept slowly
+along. They were clothed in buffalo robes, and had bows,
+with quivers made of skin, on their backs. About the nose
+and eyes they were painted white.<a name="FNanchor_225" id="FNanchor_225" href="#Footnote_225" class="fnanchor">[225]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo269" id="illo269"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_270a.jpg" width="234" height="328" alt="Omaha Indians" />
+<p class="caption">Omaha Indians</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>Among these Indians there was a woman who had been
+severely wounded; namely, the well-known Mitain, who is
+spoken of in Major Long's "Travels to the Rocky Mountains,"
+as an interesting instance of maternal affection, but
+without mentioning her name. She and her child had received
+many severe wounds, but were so fortunate as not
+to be scalped.<a name="FNanchor_226" id="FNanchor_226" href="#Footnote_226" class="fnanchor">[226]</a> The nearest village of the Omahas is twenty-five
+miles from Belle Vue.<a name="FNanchor_227" id="FNanchor_227" href="#Footnote_227" class="fnanchor">[227]</a> This country is the proper
+territory of this tribe, which lives on both sides of the Missouri,
+from Boyer River to Big Sioux River, and hunts further
+up to Jacques River, as well as between Running Water
+River (l'eau qui court) and the La Platte.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 4th of May, at half-past seven
+o'clock, the thermometer was at 69��. We had all round
+us beautiful low prairie hills, before which was alluvial land,
+thrown up by the <span class="opage">130</span> river, covered with fine grass. The
+river had risen an inch during the night. The noise and
+smoke of our steamer frightened all living creatures; geese
+and ducks flew off in all directions. There was formerly a
+village of the Joway Indians at this place, the inhabitants
+of which, on the death of their chief, returned to their countrymen
+further down. On the left bank there were whole
+tracts covered with dead poplars, which had been killed by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>
+the fires caused by the Indians in the forest and prairie. We
+soon saw the white buildings of Mr. Cabann�'s trading post,
+which we saluted with some guns, and then landed.</p>
+
+<p>We were very glad to see, at the landing-place, a number
+of Omaha and Oto Indians, and some few Joways, who,
+in different groups, looked at us with much curiosity; all
+these people were wrapped in buffalo skins, with the hairy
+side outwards; some of them wore blankets, which they
+sometimes paint with coloured stripes. In their features
+they did not materially differ from those Indians we had
+already seen, but they were not so well formed as the Saukies.
+Many of them were much marked with the small pox.
+Several had only one eye; their faces were marked with red
+stripes: some had painted their foreheads and chins red;
+others, only stripes down the cheeks. Few only had aquiline
+noses, and their eyes were seldom drawn down at the corners;
+generally speaking, their eyes are small, though there
+are exceptions. They wore their hair loosely hanging down
+their backs; none had shaved their heads; and, on the whole,
+they looked very dirty and miserable. The countenances
+of the women were ugly, but not quite so broad and flat as
+those of the Foxes and Saukies; their noses, in general, rather
+longer. Their dress did not differ much from that of those
+Indians, and they wore the same strings of wampum in
+their ears. The men carried in their hands their tobacco
+pipes, made of red or black stone (a hardened clay), adorned
+with rings of lead or tin, which they generally obtain from
+the Sioux, at a high price.</p>
+
+<p>This trading post consists of a row of buildings of various
+sizes, stores, and the houses of the <i>engag�s</i>, married to Indian
+women, among which was that of Mr. Cabann�, which
+is two stories high. He is a proprietor of the American Fur
+Company, and director of this station.<a name="FNanchor_228" id="FNanchor_228" href="#Footnote_228" class="fnanchor">[228]</a> He received us
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span>
+very kindly, and conducted us over his premises. From
+the balcony of his house was a fine view over the river, but
+the prospect is still more interesting from the hills which
+rise at the back of the settlement. Between the buildings
+runs a small stream, with high banks, which rises from a
+pleasant valley, in which there are plantations of maize for
+the support of the inhabitants. Mr. Cabann� had planted
+fifteen acres of land with this invaluable grain, which yield,
+annually, 2,000 bushels of that corn, the land here being
+extremely fertile. The banks of the stream are covered
+with fine high trees, and many of the plants were in flower,
+especially the beautiful blue lychnis, the white oak, &amp;c.
+A high wind prevailed throughout the day, but, within doors,
+the weather was warm, 78� at four o'clock. Our vessel
+remained here the whole day, and we were besieged all the
+time by Indians, who caused a very disagreeable heat in
+our cabins. Among <span class="opage">131</span> them was a Joway, called Nih-Yu-M�h-Ni
+(<i>la pluie qui marche</i>), who sold us several articles
+of his dress. Mr. Bodmer made a sketch of the boy
+of an Omaha, whom the father first daubed with red paint.
+He took vermilion in the palm of the hand, spat upon it,
+and then rubbed it in the boy's face. The head of this boy
+was shaved quite smooth, excepting a tuft of hair in front,
+and another at the back.<a name="FNanchor_229" id="FNanchor_229" href="#Footnote_229" class="fnanchor">[229]</a> A number of men and women
+stood round, looking on with eager curiosity. I showed the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span>
+Indians a rattlesnake in brandy, and they gave me to understand
+that a child had lately been bitten by one of these
+animals, and died in consequence. The little child, lately
+wounded by the Joways, was brought to us; the wounds,
+though they had not been dressed and covered, were almost
+healed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo269b" id="illo269b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_270b.jpg" width="164" height="199" alt="An Omaha boy" />
+<p class="caption">An Omaha boy</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. Cabann�;
+sitting in the balcony of his house, we enjoyed the delightful
+temperature and the fine scene around us. The splendid
+sky was illumined by the full moon; silence reigned around,
+interrupted only by the noise of the frogs, and the incessant
+cry of the whip-poor-will, in the neighbouring woods, till
+the Indians assembled round the house, and, at the request
+of Mr. Cabann�, performed a dance. About twenty Omahas
+joined in it; the principal dancer, a tall man, wore on his
+head an immense feather cap, like those of the Camacans
+in Brazil, but larger and of less elaborate workmanship,
+composed of long tail and wing feathers of owls and birds
+of prey;<a name="FNanchor_230" id="FNanchor_230" href="#Footnote_230" class="fnanchor">[230]</a> in his hand he held his bow and arrows. The
+upper part of his body was covered only with a whitish skin,
+which fell over the right shoulder and breast, and was adorned
+with bunches of feathers; his arms, face, and the uncovered
+parts of his body, were painted with white stripes and spots.
+His trousers were marked with dark cross stripes, and
+trimmed at the ankles with a great quantity of fringe. He
+also wore an apron. He had a savage and martial appearance,
+to which his athletic figure greatly contributed. Another
+man, <span class="opage">132</span> who was younger, of a very muscular
+frame&mdash;the upper part of whose body was naked, but
+painted white&mdash;had in his hand a war club, striped with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span>
+white, ornamented at the handle with the skin of a polecat.<a name="FNanchor_231" id="FNanchor_231" href="#Footnote_231" class="fnanchor">[231]</a>
+He wore on his head a feather cap, like that already described.
+These two men, and several youths and boys,
+formed a line, opposite to which other Indians sat down in
+a row; in the middle of which row the drum was beat in
+quick time. Several men beat time with war clubs hung
+with bells; and the whole company (most of whom were
+painted white) sung, "Hi! hi! hi!" or "Hey! hey! hey!"
+&amp;c., sometimes shouting aloud. The manner of the dance
+was thus: bending their bodies forward, they leaped up with
+both feet at once, not rising high from the ground, and
+stamped loudly, while the drum beat in quick time, and
+their arms were rattled and occasionally lifted up into the
+air. Thus they leaped opposite to each other, with great
+exertion, for about an hour; they perspired violently, till
+the usual presents, a quantity of tobacco stalks, were thrown
+on the ground before them. This dance was very interesting
+to me, especially in connection with the beautiful evening
+scene on the Missouri. The bright light of the moon
+illumined the extensive and silent wilderness; before us, the
+grotesque band of Indians, uttering their wild cry, together
+with the loud call of the night raven, vividly recalled to my
+mind scenes which I had witnessed in Brazil. We did not
+return to our vessel till late at night, after taking leave of
+our kind host, and of Major Pilcher; the former was on the
+point of returning to St. Louis, leaving the superintendence
+of the trading post to Major Pilcher.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo269c" id="illo269c"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_270c.jpg" width="467" height="203" alt="Omaha war club" />
+<p class="caption">Omaha war club</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Omahas, or, as some erroneously call them, Mahas,
+were formerly a numerous tribe, but have been much reduced
+by frequent wars with their neighbours; the smallpox,
+too, has committed dreadful ravages, and there are
+now but few vigorous young men among them. Their language
+differs from that of the Otos, Missouris, and Joways;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span>
+there is, however, an affinity between them. The best and
+most complete accounts of the Omahas are given by Mr.
+Say in his Narrative of Major Long's "Expedition to the
+Rocky Mountains," to which I would refer my readers.<a name="FNanchor_232" id="FNanchor_232" href="#Footnote_232" class="fnanchor">[232]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of May, the Yellow Stone left Cabann�'s
+trading house; the weather was warm <span class="opage">133</span> and serene; we
+passed the mouth of Boyer's Creek on the east bank, where
+the Missouri makes a bend, and saw the ruins of the former
+cantonment, or fort, at Council Bluffs.<a name="FNanchor_233" id="FNanchor_233" href="#Footnote_233" class="fnanchor">[233]</a> This military post
+was established, in the year 1819, for 1,000 men, but, in
+fact, there were now only 500 men of the regiment in garrison
+at Jefferson barracks. In the year 1827, these troops
+were withdrawn and stationed at Leavenworth; the fort,
+or, rather, the barracks, formed a quadrangle, with a bastion
+or blockhouse, in two of the angles. At present there
+were only the stone chimneys, and, in the centre, a brick
+storehouse under roof. Everything of value had been carried
+away by the Indians. We were told that numerous
+rattlesnakes are found among the ruins. The situation of
+Council Bluffs is said to have been much more favourable
+for observing the Indians than that at Leavenworth; and
+it was even conjectured that this post will be again occupied.
+The military station was at first placed a little further inland,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span>
+but the scurvy carried off 300 of the garrison in one
+winter. Mr. Sandford, who had rejoined us, once found
+here the large grinders of a mastodon, which are now in
+the possession of General Clarke, at St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>At twelve at noon, we ran aground, but happily sustained
+no damage, at a dangerous place, where the left bank was
+blocked up with many snags, and which is called the Devil's
+Race-ground. The country was low and uniform till we
+again reached the hills, which were rather bare of wood,
+but of grotesque form, and covered with a fine verdant carpet.
+Near the mouth of the Soldier River, an <i>engag�</i> met us,
+who brought letters from the Assiniboin steamer. We went
+on pretty well till the evening, when we got upon a sand
+bank, and then made the vessel fast for the night; after
+which our people exerted themselves to get off the bank, in
+the midst of a storm of thunder and lightning.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer was got afloat by daybreak on the 6th. On
+both sides there was alluvial soil, thickly covered with willows
+and poplars, mixed, in some places, with other trees.
+Here we saw, on a sand bank, two large wolves, which
+seemed to look at us with surprise. The Omaha Indians
+hunt on both banks of this part of the river; they are said
+to be the most indolent, dull, unintellectual, and cowardly
+of the Missouri Indians. At two in the afternoon we landed
+on the prairie, which was covered with tall trees, and forty
+or fifty of our men immediately began to hew down wood
+for fuel; there was abundance of grass, but not a single
+flower, which was caused by the prairie having been set on
+fire; black burnt wood was scattered about, and the ground
+itself was discoloured in places by the effects of the fire.</p>
+
+<p>From this place the country becomes more and more level,
+and bare of wood, and the eye roves over the boundless
+prairie. Behind a willow-tree I saw some remains of Indian
+huts, in front of one of which a pole was set up, with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span>
+a piece of red cloth attached to the top. The forest, which
+had been inundated, was likewise destitute of flowers; numerous
+traces of stags were everywhere seen. During the
+night a man deserted, whom Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie had some time
+before put under arrest for having uttered vehement threats.
+The 7th day of May, the anniversary of our <span class="opage">134</span> departure
+from Germany, was very fine. We soon reached the chain
+of hills on the left bank, at a place where the yellow limestone
+rock was nearly perpendicular, and in which innumerable
+swallows had built their nests; these are called Wood's
+Hills, and do not extend very far. On one of them we saw
+a small, conical mound, which is the grave of the celebrated
+Omaha chief, Washinga-Sahba (the blackbird). In James's
+Narrative of Major Long's Expedition, is a circumstantial
+account of this remarkable and powerful chief, who was a
+friend to the white man: he contrived, by means of arsenic,
+to make himself feared and dreaded, and passed for a magician,
+because he put his enemies and rivals out of the way
+when it suited him. An epidemical smallpox carried him
+off, with a great part of his nation, in the year 1800, and
+he was buried, sitting upright upon a live mule, at the top
+of a green hill on Wakonda Creek. When dying, he gave
+orders that they should bury him on that hill, with his face
+turned to the country of the white men.<a name="FNanchor_234" id="FNanchor_234" href="#Footnote_234" class="fnanchor">[234]</a> The Omahas
+have been since so reduced by their enemies, the Sioux,
+Saukies, and Foxes, that they are now quite powerless and
+insignificant, not being able to muster above 300 or 400
+warriors. Washinga-Sahba was so feared by his own people,
+that nobody ventured to wake him when he slept: it
+is said that they used then to tickle his nose with a blade
+of grass. The present chief of the Omahas is Ongpa-Tanga
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span>
+(the great elk), of whom Godman, in his Natural History, has
+given a good portrait. He lives on the Horn River, which falls
+into the La Platte, about twenty miles above its mouth.<a name="FNanchor_235" id="FNanchor_235" href="#Footnote_235" class="fnanchor">[235]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the following day (the 8th of May) we came to Floyd's
+Grave, where the sergeant of that name was buried by Lewis
+and Clarke. The bank on either side is low. The left is
+covered with poplars; on the right, behind the wood, rises
+a hill like the roof of a building, at the top of which Floyd
+is buried. A short stick marks the place where he is laid,
+and has often been renewed by travellers when the fires in
+the prairie have destroyed it. A little further up is Floyd's
+River, and on Floyd's Hills there were a few fir trees,
+over which the kite hovered in the air.<a name="FNanchor_236" id="FNanchor_236" href="#Footnote_236" class="fnanchor">[236]</a> About half a
+league beyond Floyd's River is the mouth of the Big Sioux
+River, interesting from the circumstance of its being the
+boundary of the territory of the Dacota, or Sioux nation.
+Its breadth, at the mouth, is about sixty paces, and it is
+said to be navigable by Mackinaw boats for 100 miles.
+About 120 miles up this river, a tribe of the Sioux reside,
+which is known by the name of Wahch-Pekut�; this,
+and another tribe of this people on the Mississippi, and
+near Lake Pepin, are the only ones of their nation who plant
+maize; all the other hordes of the Sioux are hunters. The
+territory of these people formerly extended further to the
+south, till the before-mentioned treaty for the purchase of
+land was concluded with the Indians.<a name="FNanchor_237" id="FNanchor_237" href="#Footnote_237" class="fnanchor">[237]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At noon, with a temperature of 75�, there was such a
+violent wind, that the fine sand from the banks penetrated
+into the innermost parts of our vessel; the broad river was
+so agitated by the wind, that the pilot could not distinguish
+the sand banks, and we were obliged to lie to. In a small
+meadow in the woods we saw the giant footsteps of the elks,
+and likewise of the common <span class="opage">135</span> stag, which we would
+willingly have followed had not a rising tempest compelled
+us to return on board. Vivid lightning flashed in the horizon,
+the rain soon poured down in torrents, and at night a storm
+arose which, at midnight, raged with such fury, that we
+might have felt some alarm, had not our vessel been so well
+protected by the bank. The storm frequently forced open
+the doors of the upper cabin, and the rain beat into the room.
+Towards daybreak the tempest returned with increased violence;
+the flashes of lightning and the claps of thunder
+were incessant during the twilight, and everybody thought
+that the vessel must be struck.</p>
+
+<p>The 9th of May set in with rain, a cloudy sky, and high
+wind; the thermometer, before so high, fell, at half-past
+seven o'clock, to 56�. When the storm had passed over, our
+vessel quitted the place where it had taken shelter. We
+passed along wild, desolate banks, then a green prairie, by
+a chain of steep hills, partly bare, partly covered with forests,
+or with isolated fir trees and picturesque ravines, with dark
+shadows, into which the close thicket scarcely allowed the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span>
+eye to penetrate. We here saw, for the first time, a plant
+which now became more and more common; namely, the
+buffalo-berry-bush (<i>Sheperdia argentea</i>, Nutt.), with pale,
+bluish-green, narrow leaves. At the mouth of the Joway
+River, which runs into the Missouri, on the south bank, at
+a very acute angle, clay-slate appeared to stand out on the
+bluffs, divided into narrow, horizontal strata, the lower of
+which were blackish-blue, and those above of yellowish-red
+colour.<a name="FNanchor_238" id="FNanchor_238" href="#Footnote_238" class="fnanchor">[238]</a> Our hunters and wood-cutters landed, on
+which occasion we lost a hound, which had strayed too far
+into the forest. Five or six hundred paces further up, we
+saw, among the thickets of willow and poplar, an old Indian
+wigwam,<a name="FNanchor_239" id="FNanchor_239" href="#Footnote_239" class="fnanchor">[239]</a> near which the red willow, mixed with the common
+willow, was in blossom. The thermometer, which
+had been at 56� in the morning, rose at ten o'clock, when
+the sun broke through the clouds. We frequently observed
+the wild geese, which endeavoured to take their young, of
+which they never had more than four or six, to some place
+on shore, where they would be safe from us. When we
+came very near, the mother fluttered anxiously to a little
+distance, and called them to her.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our voyage, but soon lay to at the prairie,
+on the right bank, because Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie wished to form
+a plantation at this place. The whole plain was covered
+with high, dry grass. On the bank of the river there was
+a fine border of tall timber trees, in which the turtle-dove
+cooed, and flocks of blackbirds were flying about. The
+hills of the prairie were covered with the finest verdure, and
+the singular forms of the hills afforded us an interesting
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span>
+subject of observation on the otherwise uniform appearance
+of the country. We halted for the night near the high
+trees that bordered the prairie, where there were numbers
+of ducks and plovers. As soon as it was dark, the young
+men set fire to the dry grass of the prairie, to give us the
+pleasure of seeing how the fire spread, but the attempt did
+not fully succeed, because there was <span class="opage">136</span> no wind. Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie left some men here, with agricultural implements,
+to make a plantation; among them was one Fran�ois Roi,
+of Rheims, whose name gave occasion to many innocent
+jokes, and we deliberated what name should be given to
+the kingdom he was going to found.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, the 10th, we had been exactly
+four weeks since we left St. Louis. At the spot where we
+now were, it is said that large herds of buffaloes are seen
+in the winter, but we had not yet met with one of these
+animals. The character of the country was much changed;
+it is, for the most part, naked, and without woods. The
+trees which are found here are no longer lofty and vigorous,
+as on the Lower Missouri; yet the wild vines are still seen
+climbing on the bushes, though this, too, entirely ceases further
+up the river. Near the mouth of Vermilion Creek, the
+green hills of the prairie approach very near the water; and
+here we saw, on the back of one of the hills, a grave surrounded
+with poles, which was that of some Sioux Indians,
+who had been killed by lightning in a violent thunder-storm.
+At the mouth of the stream we saw wild ducks and geese,
+of which a pair of the latter, with six young ones, anxiously
+endeavoured to escape us. The female remained faithfully
+with her young ones, while the male flew away.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the following day (the 11th of May)
+brought us to the mouth of Jacques River, which was concealed
+from our view by a sand bank. The steep banks,
+which in Lewis and Clarke's map are called Calumet Bluffs,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span>
+have deep ravines, and are of an ash-grey colour at the base,
+and yellow above. We reached the island called by those
+travellers Sego Island, where we found very little water, and
+then came to Lewis and Clarke's White Bear Bluffs, of
+which Mr. Bodmer made a drawing.<a name="FNanchor_240" id="FNanchor_240" href="#Footnote_240" class="fnanchor">[240]</a> At noon the thermometer
+was at 63�. After dinner we saw, at a distance,
+the Assiniboin steamer, with which we came up in half an
+hour. It had not been able to proceed any further for want
+of a sufficient depth of water. After we had saluted the
+master of the vessel, Mr. Pratte, son of the General of that
+name at St. Louis, and a member of the American Fur Company,
+we went on board his vessel.<a name="FNanchor_241" id="FNanchor_241" href="#Footnote_241" class="fnanchor">[241]</a> In this steamer there
+were two cabins, much lighter and more pleasant than those
+in the Yellow Stone; the stern cabin had ten berths, and
+the fore cabin twenty-four, and between decks was the large
+apartment distinct for the <i>engag�s</i>. The crew had lately
+killed a she-bear&mdash;the young ones were alive on board.
+While we were visiting the Assiniboin, we suddenly perceived,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span>
+on the left or southern bank, a number of Indians, between
+fifteen and twenty of whom rolled down the hills. As our
+people did not seem very desirous of having anything to do
+with them, and contented themselves with looking at them
+through a telescope, we took advantage of the fine weather
+to make an excursion into the prairie.</p>
+
+<p>The chain of hills, bounding the valley of the Missouri
+on the north, crossed the verdant prairie, in a straight line,
+at a distance of about 1,000 paces from the river. The appearance
+of this chain was singular, with perpendicular,
+yellow, calcareous walls, which indicated that the <span class="opage">137</span> river
+must, formerly, have flowed in that direction; and the cylindrical
+hollow marked the ancient bed of the river. In the
+prairie itself there were many pools of water, and we found
+several interesting plants, among which were some with long
+roots like carrots, especially the yellow flowering <i>Batschia
+longiflora</i> (Pursh.), and the <i>Oxitropis Lamberti B.</i> The
+great yellow-breasted lark (<i>Sturnella</i>, Vieill.), was everywhere
+seen in pairs, and its short, coy call, and its pleasing,
+whistling note, were heard from every side. Besides these,
+we saw the prairie hen, and the great long-billed curlews
+(<i>Numenius longirostris</i>), of which we shall speak hereafter.
+Skeletons of buffaloes were scattered in the plain, especially
+many skulls, but very few of which were entire.</p>
+
+<p>When I returned to the vessel, I found there three Punca
+Indians, the chief of the tribe Shudegacheh,<a name="FNanchor_242" id="FNanchor_242" href="#Footnote_242" class="fnanchor">[242]</a> his brother
+Passitopa,<a name="FNanchor_243" id="FNanchor_243" href="#Footnote_243" class="fnanchor">[243]</a> and Ha-cha-ga. They were all robust, good-looking
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span>
+men, tall, and well-proportioned, with strongly-marked
+features, high cheek-bones, aquiline noses, and animated
+dark hazel eyes. Their hair hung down as far as
+the shoulders, and part of it lower; that of the chief was
+shorter, and fastened together in a plait. The upper part
+of the body of these Indians was naked, only they wore
+round the neck an ornamented band, and had a large slit
+in their ears: from those of the chief an ornament of shell
+work was suspended. His beard below the chin consisted
+of scanty hairs, which had been suffered to grow very long.<a name="FNanchor_244" id="FNanchor_244" href="#Footnote_244" class="fnanchor">[244]</a>
+They wore a narrow bracelet of white metal round the wrist,
+very plain, leather pantaloons, and large buffalo robes; the
+chief, however, was wrapped in a white blanket.</p>
+
+<p>The Puncas, as they are now universally called, or as some
+travellers formerly called them, Poncaras, or Poncars, the
+Pons of the French, were originally a branch of the Omahas,
+and speak nearly the same language. They have, however,
+been long separated from them, and dwell on both sides of
+Running-water River, and on Punca Creek, which Lewis
+and Clarke call Poncara. They formerly lived, like the
+Omahas, in clay huts, at the mouth of the river, but their
+powerful enemies, the Sioux and the Pawnees, destroyed
+their villages, and they have since adopted the mode of life
+of the former, living more generally in tents made of skins,
+and changing their place from time to time. Their external
+appearance and dress do not much differ from those of the
+Omahas. They are said to have been brave warriors, but
+have been greatly reduced by war and the smallpox. According
+to Dr. Morse's report, they numbered, in 1822, 1,750
+in all; at present the total amount of their warriors is estimated
+at about 300.<a name="FNanchor_245" id="FNanchor_245" href="#Footnote_245" class="fnanchor">[245]</a> The band of them, which <span class="opage">138</span> we met
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span>
+with here, has set up eight or nine leather tents, at the mouth
+of Basil Creek,<a name="FNanchor_246" id="FNanchor_246" href="#Footnote_246" class="fnanchor">[246]</a> on a fine forest.<a name="FNanchor_247" id="FNanchor_247" href="#Footnote_247" class="fnanchor">[247]</a> They plant maize,
+which they sell to the Sioux, but they had neglected to cultivate
+this grain for about three years, and obtained it from
+the Omahas; they, however, intended to grow it again
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p>As Major Bean was agent of the Puncas, they came to
+speak to him. The chief had formerly received, through
+the agent, a large silver medal of President Madison, which
+he wore suspended round his neck. On the face of all these
+medals, which are given as a distinction to the Indian chiefs,
+there is the bust of the President, and, on the reverse, two
+clasped hands, with a suitable inscription.<a name="FNanchor_248" id="FNanchor_248" href="#Footnote_248" class="fnanchor">[248]</a> Shudegacheh
+had a remarkably intelligent countenance, and fine manly
+deportment. He sat down by us, and smoked, with his
+comrades, the only pipe that they had with them; but, according
+to Indian custom, several pipes soon circulated in
+the company. The evening was very cool, and, as some of
+the Indians had no leggins, we took them into our
+cabin, where their portraits were drawn, after they had
+been regaled with pork, bread, and tea, which Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie
+gave them. One of the Indians made me a present of his
+wooden war-club, which was painted reddish-brown;<a name="FNanchor_249" id="FNanchor_249" href="#Footnote_249" class="fnanchor">[249]</a> another,
+with a pair of shoes, made of elk leather, which were
+dyed black with the juice of white walnut. These people
+were not armed, as they had come merely on a visit, and
+had left their best effects behind. Among them was a French
+Canadian, named Primeau, who has long lived among them.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span>
+He acted as interpreter, and communicated to me some words
+of the Punca language.<a name="FNanchor_250" id="FNanchor_250" href="#Footnote_250" class="fnanchor">[250]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo269d" id="illo269d"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_270d.jpg" width="485" height="79" alt="Punca war club" />
+<p class="caption">Punca war club</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The morning of the 12th of May was cold, there having
+been a hoar frost during the night. The Indians sat upon
+the bank, wrapped in their buffalo skins, as represented in
+the subjoined woodcut.<a name="FNanchor_251" id="FNanchor_251" href="#Footnote_251" class="fnanchor">[251]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo287" id="illo287"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_288a2.jpg" width="503" height="295" alt="Punca Indians in buffalo robes" />
+<p class="caption">Punca Indians in buffalo robes</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="opage">139</span> While the Yellow Stone remained stationary, the Assiniboin
+attempted to pass the shallow place on the river,
+during which time the hunters went into the prairie. The
+Indians had a conference with their agent, in which the chief
+expressed a wish that their great father (the President) would
+send them several articles, particularly agricultural implements.
+The attitude and gestures of the speaker were graceful;
+his right arm and shoulder were bare, while he gesticulated
+with his hand; and his fine, manly countenance was
+very expressive. As he had not put on his leggins, we observed,
+on his muscular calves, two tattooed stripes crossing
+each other, X; otherwise, he was neither tattooed nor painted.
+Some of these Indians had been inoculated with the smallpox
+by a surgeon, whom Major Bean had taken to them
+the year before, and who had inoculated 2,600 Indians of
+different tribes. Many of them had manifested distrust on
+this occasion; and, when he offered to perform the operation,
+said, "Now we are well; if we should become sick it will
+be time enough to submit to the operation." Shudegacheh
+had on the upper part of his arm a large, round scar, which
+he is said to have burnt into his flesh with his tobacco-pipe,
+on the death of a relation. Major Bean presented to the
+Indians, in the name of the Government, tobacco, powder,
+and ball, and the chief received a fine blanket. Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie observed to him, that "the Puncas furnished too
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span>
+few skins, and did not plant maize enough; it was not possible
+to purchase anything of them;" to which he replied,
+that "there was no unity among his people; that they lived
+too scattered, and, therefore, he could not superintend them,
+and keep them to work." At noon, the thermometer being
+at 67�, our hunters returned, without having seen anything
+of consequence, except a couple of large curlews. The boats,
+which had been sent out to take soundings, likewise came
+back, and great exertions were made to lighten the steamer,
+by transferring part of the cargo to the Maria keel-boat.
+At length, at two o'clock, we were able to weigh anchor,
+and run awhile down the river, which was done with such
+rapidity that the Indians became giddy, and sat down on
+the floor. In this manner we turned round a sand bank,
+and proceeded upwards, along the south coast of the river,
+and in twenty minutes were opposite the huts of the Punca
+Indians. They lay in the shade of a forest, like white cones,
+and, in front of them, a sand bank extended into the river,
+which was separated from the land by a narrow channel.
+The whole troop was assembled on the edge of the bank,
+and it was amusing to see how the motley group crowded
+together, wrapped in brown buffalo skins, white and red
+blankets&mdash;some naked, of a deep brown colour. The little
+children, with their protuberant bellies,<a name="FNanchor_252" id="FNanchor_252" href="#Footnote_252" class="fnanchor">[252]</a> and their legs, of a
+dark brown colour, carrying bows and arrows in their hands,
+were running along the beach, or cowering like little monkeys,
+while the men walked about, very gravely, with their weapons
+in their hands. We landed our Indian visitors on the sand
+bank; the boat brought back some skins, and we afterwards
+saw Primeau, with the Indians, wade through <span class="opage">140</span> the channel.
+A little further up we witnessed a great prairie fire,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span>
+on the left bank. The flames rose from the forest to the
+height of 100 feet&mdash;fiery smoke filled the air: it was a splendid
+sight! A whirlwind had formed a remarkable towering
+column of smoke, which rose, in a most singular manner,
+in graceful undulations, to the zenith. Afterwards we came
+to steep hills, behind which is Manoel's Creek, so called
+from Manoel Lisa, a Spaniard, who formerly carried on
+the fur trade in these parts.<a name="FNanchor_253" id="FNanchor_253" href="#Footnote_253" class="fnanchor">[253]</a> Towards evening we were
+near the Assiniboin steamer, which lay before us, and halted
+in the vicinity of Basil Creek, where the Puncas formerly
+dwelt, numbers of whose graves are seen upon the hills. The
+trunks of trees in the river had much injured our paddles.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER XII</p>
+
+<p class="center">VOYAGE FROM L'EAU QUI COURT TO FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON
+RIVER (THE LITTLE MISSOURI), AND STAY THERE, FROM
+MAY 13TH TO JUNE 4TH</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Running-water River (l'eau qui court)&mdash;Punca Creek&mdash;Remarkable
+Mountains&mdash;Cedar Island&mdash;Delay caused by the insufficient Depth
+of the Water&mdash;First Sight of Buffaloes and Antelopes&mdash;Burning
+Mountain&mdash;Black Strata of bituminous Coal&mdash;Bijoux Hills&mdash;Prairie
+Dogs&mdash;Shannon, or Dry River&mdash;White River&mdash;Ruins of
+Cedar Fort&mdash;Fort Look-out (Sioux Agency)&mdash;Visit to it&mdash;The
+Dacotas of the Branch of the Yanktons&mdash;Wahktageli&mdash;Big Bend,
+or Grand D�tour&mdash;Medicine Hills&mdash;Teton River&mdash;Fort Pierre&mdash;Stay
+there&mdash;The Tetons, a branch of the Dacotas or Sioux.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 13th of May, the Yellow Stone
+passed the mouth of the Running-water River (l'eau qui
+court),<a name="FNanchor_254" id="FNanchor_254" href="#Footnote_254" class="fnanchor">[254]</a> when the thermometer was at 55�. The Assiniboin
+was before us. We reached the mouth of Punca Creek,
+which runs along the chain of hills obliquely to the Missouri.
+At the time when the Puncas separated from the Omahas,
+they built a kind of fort of earth, some miles up this river,
+which, however, they no longer occupy. There are said to
+be hot springs in the neighbourhood, such as are known
+to exist in several places on the banks of the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_255" id="FNanchor_255" href="#Footnote_255" class="fnanchor">[255]</a>
+Springs of any kind are, however, very rare in these dry
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span>
+prairies. In this neighbourhood are many villages of the
+prairie dogs (<i>Arctomys ludoviciana</i>, Ord.), in the abandoned
+burrows of which, rattlesnakes abound. It has been affirmed
+that these two species of animals live peaceably together in
+these burrows; but observers of nature have proved that
+the snakes take possession of abandoned burrows only, which
+is in the usual course of things. Deep <span class="opage">142</span> gullies traverse
+the summits of the banks, above which the turkey buzzards
+were hovering. On a sudden, three Punca Indians appeared
+and hailed us; they were wrapped in their buffalo skins, and
+carried their bows and arrows on their shoulders. One of
+them had a very singular appearance, having bound up
+the hair of his head, so that it stood quite upright. Though
+they made signs to us to take them on board, we did not stop,
+but renounced the pleasure of more closely observing these
+interesting people. The trees on the edge of the prairie,
+by which we passed, were old, thick, and low, with their
+summits depressed and cramped. They were the resort of
+the Carolina pigeon, which is found all along the banks of
+the river. The red cedars, in particular, were stunted and
+crippled, often thicker than a man's body in the trunk, and
+very frequently wholly withered. The swallows' nests&mdash;numbers
+of which were built against the steep banks&mdash;were
+not yet inhabited. We were unable, on account of the
+shallowness, to reach a fine grove of poplars on the right
+bank, and proceeded along the hills of the left bank, which
+were seventy or eighty feet in height, where the red cedar
+abounded, and we stopped to fell a number of these trees.
+A wild lateral ravine here opened to the Missouri, up the
+steep sides of which our wood-cutters climbed, and cut down
+the cedars, which were loaded with their black berries. The
+wood of this tree emits a very aromatic scent, and it is much
+used by the steam-boats for fuel, because it supplies a great
+deal of steam, and the berries, as we were told, are eaten by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span>
+the Indians for certain medicinal purposes. At the bottom
+of the narrow ravine, there was a thicket of elm, cedar, bird-cherry,
+clematis, celtis, celastrus, vine, and other shrubs;
+and the neighbouring lofty verdant hills of the prairie produced
+many beautiful plants, among which was <i>Stanleya
+pinnatifida</i>, with its splendid long bunches of yellow flowers.
+Returning to our vessel, when the bell gave the signal for
+departure, we found one of the three Punca Indians whom
+we had seen in the morning. He had taken advantage
+of our slow progress to overtake us. His hair
+hung down to his shoulders, and was tied together
+in a queue. His countenance was good-natured and
+friendly; he wore a buffalo robe, had a bow and arrows
+on his back, and, in his hand, a large hussar sabre,
+which he had received as a present. Major Bean gave
+him some tobacco, powder, lead, and ball; and after
+he had satisfied his craving appetite he returned, well satisfied,
+to his comrades. In the afternoon the country was
+by no means attractive, rather flat, and not so verdant; our
+vessel sustained many violent shocks. The chain of hills,
+in the distance, appeared in more and more singular forms,
+partly resembling ramparts and batteries, and then again
+perfectly flat, like table-land. An isolated, round, conical
+eminence, which is called the Tower, stands on them.<a name="FNanchor_256" id="FNanchor_256" href="#Footnote_256" class="fnanchor">[256]</a> On
+the bank were, again, singularly stunted woods and thickets,
+probably kept down by the cold winds of the prairie. The
+soil and the whole character of the country was changed;
+on the Lower Missouri it was a black mould, and very fertile.
+Cedars flourished here, growing to the height of forty
+or fifty feet, yet they were often withered, or, at least, many
+had dry branches on their summits.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">143</span> On the following morning, the 14th, we had a very
+difficult navigation, and were even obliged to put back, so
+that the Assiniboin overtook and passed us, and we followed
+it up the river on the north bank, and afterwards landed
+forty men to lighten the vessel; ran happily over a sand
+bank, and again passed the Assiniboin. In the preceding
+year, the whole prairie was seen from the steamer to be covered
+with herds of buffaloes, but now there were no living
+creatures, except a few wild geese and ducks, which had
+likewise become scarce, since the termination of the great
+forest below the La Platte River. The monotony of this
+rude landscape was, however, soon interrupted by the appearance
+of a canoe, in which were four white men rowing down
+the river. A boat was speedily manned, into which Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie and Mr. Sandford went, well armed, in order to
+speak to them, because they were supposed to be <i>engag�s</i>
+of the Company who were deserting. We were informed
+by them, that the Arikkaras, a dangerous Indian tribe, had
+lately murdered three beaver hunters, one of whom was a
+man named Glass, well known in the country, of whom I
+shall have occasion to speak in the sequel.<a name="FNanchor_257" id="FNanchor_257" href="#Footnote_257" class="fnanchor">[257]</a></p>
+
+<p>Upon an island, to which we came, was a real wilderness;
+the beavers had formed a kind of abattis, by felling poplars;
+another island was remarkable because there is a hot spring
+opposite to it, on the main land, the water of which has no
+mineral taste. On the left bank, about five or six miles
+below Cedar Island, we observed the remains of Indian huts.
+Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie had met here, in the preceding year, a camp
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span>
+of the Punca Indians. On the steep banks were coloured
+stripes, or regular strata; some black, doubtless bituminous
+coal, others reddish brown, and, in several places, burnt
+black. Some parts had burnt very lately, and, in many
+places, had fallen in. Unhappily we were not able more
+closely to examine these remarkable strata. We fastened
+the vessel for the night to the western coast; and the lightning
+was very brilliant.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, the 15th of May, we saw in the
+thickets, behind which the prairie extended, many traces of
+an Indian camp; heads of elks, stags, and other animals,
+were scattered about; the marks of horses' feet were
+everywhere visible; and a practicable trodden path led
+through the thickets. At noon, when the thermometer was
+at 77�, the Assiniboin again passed us, and, with the keel-boat
+Maria, vanished from our sight. At four in the afternoon,
+we reached the place where we had stopped the preceding
+night, with the help of the keel-boat, which had
+returned, and at length succeeded in getting forward; but
+again had a storm of thunder and lightning. The whole
+country, beyond the banks, consisted of hills, rising one
+above the other; some covered with verdure, some of a yellowish
+colour, mostly without life and variety. While the
+lightning flashed from the dense black clouds, we again overtook
+the Assiniboin, which had landed its wood-cutters to
+fell some cedars on the steep mountain. We, too, landed
+300 paces further up, to cut down cedars for fuel. At this
+place there was the narrow deep ravine of a small stream,
+now dry, in which we caught a pale yellow bat, and saw
+some snakes, and the scattered bones of buffaloes. We
+climbed from the bottom of the ravine up the singular <span class="opage">144</span>
+eminences of the prairie, and collected some interesting plants,
+particularly the wild turnip. Two species of cactus were
+not yet in blossom; they are, probably, not sufficiently known
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span>
+to botanists. One of them has been taken for the <i>Cactus
+opuntia</i>; and Captain Back,<a name="FNanchor_258" id="FNanchor_258" href="#Footnote_258" class="fnanchor">[258]</a> too, says, that it is found on
+an island in the Lake of the Woods; but this is certainly
+not the above-named plant. On the highest elevation above
+the river, we enjoyed a remarkably fine prospect, while the
+sky was darkened by black thunder clouds. Around us was
+the amphitheatre of singularly-formed mountain-tops; at
+our feet lay the fine broad river, intersected by innumerable
+sand banks, which plainly showed us the difficulties of our
+navigation. On the banks, at so great a distance from the
+dwellings of civilized men, were two large vessels emitting
+volumes of steam. We were lost in the contemplation of
+this vast wilderness, when the bell summoned us on board.
+Our people had found a channel with five feet water, but
+it was so dark and foggy, that we were obliged to lie to
+early.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, the 16th of May, having passed
+a village of the prairie dogs, we reached, at nine o'clock,
+the Cedar Island, which is said to be 1,075 miles from the
+mouth of the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_259" id="FNanchor_259" href="#Footnote_259" class="fnanchor">[259]</a> On the steep banks of this long
+narrow island, which lies near the south-west bank, there
+were thickets of poplars, willows, and buffalo berry; the rest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span>
+of the island is covered with a dark forest of red cedars, of
+which we immediately felled a good number. Their beautiful
+violet-coloured wood is traversed towards the edge by
+white veins, and is found very fit for ship-building. We
+crossed, with great pleasure, this wilderness of lofty cedars, the
+rough bark of which peels off of itself, and hangs down in
+long slips; many of them were withered, others broken and
+thrown down, or lying on the ground, covered with moss and
+lichens. The notes of numerous birds were heard in the
+gloom of this cedar forest, into which no ray of the sun could
+penetrate. Here, too, we found everywhere traces of the elks
+and stags, and saw where they had rubbed off the bark with
+their antlers. This may be considered as the limit to which
+the wild turkey extends on the Missouri. It is true that this
+bird is, now and then, found higher up, even on the Yellow
+Stone River; but these are exceptions, for beyond this place
+the woods are too open and exposed. The Indians, on the
+Upper Missouri, very readily barter for the tails of these fine
+birds, to use them as fans and ornaments, and Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie,
+accordingly, took a good supply with him.</p>
+
+<p>On account of the high wind we were obliged to stop
+longer than we intended at Cedar Island, and took advantage
+of the delay to send out our hunters with their fowling-pieces.
+They brought back some birds, and a quadruped
+which was new to me. The wood-cutters had found, in a hollow
+tree, a nest of the large wood-rat, with four young ones.
+This fine animal has a tuft of hair at the end of its tail, and
+sometimes the whole tail is covered with hair. In colour and
+shape it resembles our Norway rat, and has not yet been
+mentioned as found on the Missouri, unless a couple of
+passages in Lewis and Clarke's Travels, which say, "very
+large rats were found here," refer to it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">145</span> On the morning of the 17th we saw the first
+antelopes, or cabris, half a dozen of which fled over the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span>
+hills, but at so great a distance that we could not well
+distinguish them; we, however, subsequently had the
+pleasure of seeing one of these animals stop so long on the
+summit of the bank that we could very plainly observe it
+nearer at hand. It gazed for a long time at the steamer,
+appeared to be alarmed, trotted away, then stopped again,
+and disappeared behind the hills. The antelope becomes
+more and more common in this part of the country,
+and we saw several to-day, but the wishes of our hunters were
+disappointed. The Indians use the skin of these animals
+for clothing, but they are not very eager in the chase of the
+antelope, except where the buffalo is scarce. As, on sounding
+the channel, only four feet of water were found, the
+steamer was moored to the bank, and we took our fowling-pieces.
+With difficulty we penetrated through the thickets
+of poplar and willow on the bank, where the large tracks of
+the elks and of the Virginian deer were everywhere deeply
+imprinted in the soft soil. We then reached the prairie,
+which is perfectly level, and extends for 300 or 400 paces
+to the hills. It was covered with high grass, and clusters
+of many different plants. Our people traversed the prairies
+in all directions, looking for the pomme blanche, which was
+very common. Near the thickets we saw the pretty Carolina
+pigeon, seeking its food on the ground, but, when we
+approached, all the birds immediately flew out of the prairie,
+and sought refuge in the recesses of the thickets. We had
+a fine, starlight, cool evening.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th we saw the first buffaloes that we had met
+with on this voyage. Several of our hunters were immediately
+landed to pursue them. They ascended into a ravine,
+and disappeared behind the hills. We also landed, at
+noon, when the thermometer was at 68�. Beyond the thickets
+on the bank, there were some old isolated trees in the prairie,
+in which, as well as in the tall plants, bushes, and grass,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span>
+there were numerous birds. During the day, the mosquitoes
+(<i>Tipula</i>) were so troublesome in the wood, that we could
+scarcely load our pieces; it is said that, in the height of summer,
+this nuisance is still more intolerable. The buffalo
+hunters returned to the vessel at the same time with us;
+they had, indeed, missed their object, but had killed a large
+buck antelope, as well as a great many prairie dogs, the heads
+of which were all mutilated by the rifle balls. As these little
+animals retreat to their burrows, on the approach of any
+strange object, and only put out their heads, the Americans,
+with their long rifles, generally hit them in this part: they
+are a favourite food among them. Our men brought back
+the skin and the head, as well as the flesh of the antelope
+which they had killed: they likewise brought me a fine grey
+eagle and a serpent (<i>Col. eximus</i>). The river being so shallow,
+we were not able to proceed on the following day, and
+continued our excursions on shore. I often passed my time
+in the lofty and shady forest which extended beyond the
+willow thickets on the banks, at the border of the open prairie.
+Sitting on an old trunk, in the cool shade, I could observe
+at leisure the surrounding scene. I saw the turkey buzzards,
+that hovered above the hills, contending against the high
+wind, while a couple of falcons frequently made a stoop at
+them, doubtless to defend <span class="opage">146</span> their nest. A couple of
+ravens likewise flew about them. The red-eyed finch, the
+beautiful <i>Sylvia �stiva</i>, the <i>Sylvia striata</i>, and the wren, flew
+around me, the latter singing very prettily. If I passed beyond
+the prairie hills, I found the ground, on the long-extended
+ridge, covered with the blue flowers of the <i>Oxitropis
+Lamberti</i> (Pursh.), which grew in tufts about a foot high.
+There, too, I saw dens of the foxes and wolves. I saw a fine
+bird which we had not before met with, namely, the prairie
+hen (<i>Tetrao phasianellus</i>), a pair of which rose before me,
+and of which I first shot the cock. These birds are found
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span>
+in considerable numbers from this place up to the Rocky
+Mountains. In the daytime we suffered great heat in these
+excursions, while there was also a high wind, and the ground
+was hard and dry; the soles of our shoes became so polished
+on this ground and the hard dry grass, that it was difficult
+and fatiguing to walk on the slopes. We were forced to remain
+here many days, because the water was very shallow,
+and, during this time, we had several violent thunder-storms.
+It is a peculiarity of this part of the country that, in spring,
+rain, storms, and tempests prevail, while the summer and
+autumn are, in general, very dry. All the small streams
+in the extensive prairies then dry up, and there is a general
+want of water, except in the vicinity of the large rivers.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st of May it was so cool that we were obliged
+to have fires in the cabins; the river had risen a little, and
+we endeavoured to proceed. Captain Pratte, of the Assiniboin,
+came on board with a man named May, a beaver hunter,
+who had left Fort Union, on the Yellow Stone, in March.
+He confirmed the account of the murder of the three men
+by the Arikkaras, and added the still more alarming intelligence,
+that thirteen of the Company's <i>engag�s</i> had been
+killed by the Blackfoot Indians. He said that the herds of
+buffaloes had left the Missouri, and had been followed by
+the Sioux Indians, so that we must expect to see only a few
+of them on the river. The keel-boat of the Assiniboin had
+taken part of our cargo on board on the 22nd, and, as there
+was rather more depth of water, the Yellow Stone had been
+got afloat, after a delay of five days in this shallow place.
+We happened to be on the hills when the bell summoned
+us on board, and hastened as quickly as possible to the bank,
+but came too late, and were compelled to follow the vessel
+for a couple of hours, clambering over fragments of stone,
+pieces of rock, to creep through thickets full of thorns and
+burrs, or to wade through morasses; and not till eleven
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>
+o'clock did we get on board. The hills on both sides of
+the river were of singular forms; some of them were
+crowned with rocks resembling ancient towers and ruins.
+The eminences had some dark spots, caused by black shining
+strata of coal. Many of these strata had been on fire,
+and one of them was extinguished only last year, after having
+burnt more than three years. Such a thick stratum of bituminous
+coal ran in a well-defined stripe on both sides of the
+river, at an equal elevation, along all the hills, as far as the
+eye could reach; and it is not difficult to follow this stratum
+for many hundred miles; it is only interrupted, at intervals,
+by ravines. Some lofty hills, hereabouts, are called Bijoux
+Hills, after a person of that name, who resided here many
+years.<a name="FNanchor_260" id="FNanchor_260" href="#Footnote_260" class="fnanchor">[260]</a> <span class="opage">147</span> The next morning we found the Assiniboin
+at the foot of these hills. Our steamer could not be moved
+till noon, and then did not proceed far, but lay to near a
+sand bank. On the morning of the 24th, Major Bean left
+us, accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, to go by land to Sioux
+Agency, or Fort Lookout, where he intended to wait for us.
+He had procured saddle-horses from that place. As we
+expected the keel-boat, to lighten the ship, we had time to
+go ashore and make an excursion inland. At eleven o'clock
+the bell summoned us to return. The vessel was made to
+drop about 2,000 paces down the river, and then, with much
+exertion, to proceed along the north-east bank, where we
+found the Maria keel-boat, which had likewise run aground,
+but had been got afloat by its crew, who laboured up to their
+waists in water, while the people were lightening our steamer.
+Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie and myself went on shore to explore the
+neighbouring eminences, where we found many rare plants.
+The geology and mineralogy of these hills are likewise interesting.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span>
+The surface consists of clay of various colours,
+partly resembling lithomarge; plates and fragments of foliated
+gypsum were scattered around, and seemed to stand
+out in the clay. When we reached the bare sterile heights
+which belong to the black burnt stratifications, I found the
+soil quite different from what it had appeared to me when
+I looked at it from below. The whole consists of a clay,
+which has undergone the effects of fire, and is partly burnt
+black on the surface. We saw no living creatures on these
+bare heights, except the finch (<i>Fringilla grammaca</i>), first
+described by Say. Several caves or dens of wolves, foxes,
+and marmots, were observed in the declivities of the hills.
+Between four and five o'clock, the keel-boat having been
+sent on before, the Yellow Stone proceeded along the northeast
+bank. Near the Shannon, or Dry River, the sun sank
+behind the poplar wood on the bank, and we lay to for the
+night. From the Shannon, the mouth of which is on the
+west side, the territory of the Sioux nations is reckoned to
+extend up the Missouri. On the east bank, as I have observed,
+it begins much sooner.</p>
+
+<p>At five o'clock, on the following morning, the 25th of May,
+we had already reached the White River,<a name="FNanchor_261" id="FNanchor_261" href="#Footnote_261" class="fnanchor">[261]</a> and at noon came
+to a place where the Cedar Fort, a trading post of the Missouri
+Fur Company, had formerly stood. When the Company
+was dissolved, this and other settlements were abandoned,
+and demolished by the Indians.<a name="FNanchor_262" id="FNanchor_262" href="#Footnote_262" class="fnanchor">[262]</a> Directly opposite,
+on the east bank, a stratum of earth burnt till 1823, in consequence
+of which a large portion of a hill fell, and now
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span>
+stands isolated before the bank; it is seventy or eighty feet
+high, and 150 feet long. In the course of the day we came
+to a place where an Arikkara village had formerly stood,
+on the ridge of the hills, which was destroyed by the Sioux,
+and the inhabitants expelled. Opposite to this was Fort
+Lookout, where the French Fur Trading Company had a
+post. A little further up the river we saw, on the hills, some
+burying-places of the Sioux Indians; most of them were
+formed of a high platform, on four stakes, on which the
+corpse, sewn up in skins, lies at full length; others consisted
+of stakes and brushwood, like a kind of hedge, in the middle
+of which the deceased is buried in the ground. We were
+told that the son of a chief was buried in one of the latter,
+in a <span class="opage">148</span> standing posture. On a point of land, at the left
+hand, round which the Missouri turns to the west, we saw
+the buildings of Sioux Agency; the Yellow Stone saluted
+the post with several guns, and was welcomed to the fort
+by the hoisting of a flag, while the whole population, about
+fifty in number, chiefly consisting of Sioux Indians, were
+assembled on the beach. We greeted our friends Major
+Bean and Mr. Bodmer, and proceeded a mile further, to an
+extensive forest, where we took in wood, and stopped for
+the night. In order to get acquainted with the Sioux, in
+whom I took so much interest, I returned, in a heavy rain,
+through the bushes and high grass, to the agency, where
+Major Bean received me very kindly, though his dwelling,
+according to the fashion of the place, was rudely constructed,
+and he was incommoded by too many visitors.</p>
+
+<p>Sioux Agency, or, as it is now usually called, Fort Lookout,
+is a square, of about sixty paces, surrounded by pickets,
+twenty or thirty feet high, made of squared trunks of trees,
+placed close to each other, within which the dwellings are
+built close to the palisades. These dwellings consisted of
+only three block-houses, with several apartments. Close to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span>
+the fort, in a northern direction, the Fur Company of Mr.
+Soublette had a dwelling-house, with a store; and, in the
+opposite direction, was a similar post of the American Fur
+Company.<a name="FNanchor_263" id="FNanchor_263" href="#Footnote_263" class="fnanchor">[263]</a> The fort is agreeably situated on a green spot,
+near the river, partly covered with bushes, and partly open,
+bounded by hills, beyond which the prairie extends, first,
+with a few old trees, and some wooded spots, but soon assuming
+its peculiar bare character. About ten leather tents or
+huts of the Sioux, of the branch of the Yanktons or Yanktoans,
+were set up near the fort.<a name="FNanchor_264" id="FNanchor_264" href="#Footnote_264" class="fnanchor">[264]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Dacotas, as they call themselves, or the Sioux of the
+French, called by the Ojibuas or Chippeways, Nandoesi
+(which has been corrupted into Nadowassis), are still one
+of the most numerous Indian tribes in North America. Pike
+stated their number at 21,575 souls, and they are still reckoned
+at 20,000; nay, some even affirm, that they are still
+able to furnish 15,000 warriors, which seems rather too high
+an estimate. Major Long, who gives much information
+respecting this people, calculates their number at 28,100,
+of which 7,055 are warriors, the nation possessing 2,330 tents,
+which agrees pretty nearly with the statements we received
+on the Missouri. If we add the Assiniboins, who are of
+the same origin, and who are estimated at 28,000, we shall
+have for all the Dacotas, 56,100 souls, of whom 14,055 are
+warriors, and the number of their tents 5,330. Major Long
+is of opinion that they cannot be calculated at less than
+25,000 souls, and 6,000 warriors; 20,000 is, therefore, not too
+high an estimate.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The territory which they inhabit extends from Big Sioux
+River, between the Missouri and the Mississippi, down the
+latter to Rock River, and northwards to Elk River; then
+westwards, in a line which includes the sources of St. Peter's
+River, and reaches the Missouri below the Mandan villages,
+stretches down it, crosses it near Heart River, and includes
+the whole country on the western bank, to the Black Hills
+about Teton River, as far as Shannon River. The Sioux
+are divided into several branches, which all speak the same
+language, with some deviations. <span class="opage">149</span> Three principal
+branches live on the Missouri, viz., the Yanktons, or Yanktoans,
+the Tetons, or Titoans, and the Yanktonans, or Yanktoanons.
+The Mende-Wakan-Toann, or the people of the
+Spirit Lake, and some others, live on the Mississippi. All
+these branches together are, as Major Long says, divided
+by the traders into two great classes&mdash;the Gens du Lac
+and the Gens du Large; <i>i.e.</i>, those who live near the Spirit
+Lake, and are now chiefly found on the banks of the Mississippi,
+and those who roam about in the prairies. The Yanktoanons
+are said to constitute one-fifth of all the Dacotas,
+and the Tetons the half of the whole nation.<a name="FNanchor_265" id="FNanchor_265" href="#Footnote_265" class="fnanchor">[265]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Dacotas roam as far as the territory of the Puncas,
+over the Black Hills, to the Arkansa, and westwards to the
+Rocky Mountains, into the territory of the Crows, on the
+Yellow Stone River, &amp;c. Pike makes them, as well as the
+Pawnees, descend from the Tartars; but many objections
+may be made to this notion, as the affinity of the North
+Americans and the people of Asia is not proved, and the
+resemblance between them appears to be very limited. In
+general, these Indians have more strongly-marked countenances
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span>
+and higher cheek-bones than many other tribes on
+the Missouri, nor are their features so regular or pleasing,
+yet there is no considerable difference in their physiognomy.
+Bradbury says they are much inferior in stature to the Osages,
+Mandans, and Puncas, and by no means so robust; but
+this assertion must be very much restricted, because there
+are many tall men among the Dacotas. The Yanktons
+live in Sioux Agency, or the furthest down the Missouri,
+among which tribe we now were. All these Dacotas of the
+Missouri, as well as most of those of the Mississippi, are
+only hunters, and, in their excursions, always live in portable
+leather tents. Only two branches of them are exceptions
+to this rule, especially the Wahch-Pe-Kutch, on the Mississippi,
+who cultivate maize and other plants, and therefore
+live in fixed villages. All these Indians have great numbers
+of horses and dogs, the latter of which often serve them as
+food. The Dacotas, on the Missouri, were formerly dangerous
+enemies to the Whites. Bradbury calls them blood-thirsty
+savages; whereas now, with the exception of the Yanktonans,
+they bear a very good character, and constantly keep
+peace with the Whites. Pike seems to have too high an idea
+of their valour; at least, this is the opinion now entertained
+on the Missouri. Such of these Indians as reside near the
+Whites, are frequently connected with them by marriages,
+and depend on them for support. They then become negligent
+hunters, indolent, and, consequently, poor. This was
+partly the case at Sioux Agency, where they rarely possessed
+more than two horses. One of the most considerable men
+among them, wholly devoted to the Whites, was Wahktageli,
+called the Big Soldier, a tall, good-looking man, about sixty
+years of age, with a high aquiline nose, and large animated
+eyes. Besides him, there were several elderly, and some
+slender young men of this nation, here. They had, in general,
+a rather narrow, oval countenance, narrow, long eyes,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span>
+and aquiline, or straight, well-formed noses; their colour
+was a dark brown. They wore their hair hanging down
+long over the shoulders, and often plaited <i>en queue</i>; the
+older men, however, let it hang loosely, cut off a little below
+the <span class="opage">150</span> neck, and turned back from the forehead.
+Younger people generally wore it parted, a large lock hanging
+down on the nose; young men had the upper part of
+the body only wrapped in their large white or painted buffalo
+hides. They had long strings of blue and white wampum
+shells in their ears; some of them wore one, two, or three
+feathers, which were partly stripped till towards the point.<a name="FNanchor_266" id="FNanchor_266" href="#Footnote_266" class="fnanchor">[266]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo287b" id="illo287b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_288b.jpg" width="284" height="286" alt="Method of wearing hair" />
+<p class="caption">Method of wearing hair</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Bodmer having expressed a wish, immediately on
+the arrival of the Big Soldier, to paint his portrait at full
+length, he appeared in his complete state dress. His face was
+painted red with vermilion, and with short, black, parallel,
+transverse stripes on the cheeks. On his head he wore long
+feathers of birds of prey, which were tokens of his warlike
+exploits, particularly of the enemies he had slain. They
+were fastened in a horizontal position with strips of red cloth.
+In his ears he wore long strings of blue glass beads, and, on
+his breast, suspended from his neck, the great silver medal
+of the United States. His leather leggins, painted with dark
+crosses and stripes, were very neatly ornamented with a
+broad embroidered stripe of yellow, red, and sky-blue figures,
+consisting of dyed porcupine quills, and his shoes were
+adorned in the same manner. His buffalo robe was tanned
+white, and he had his tomahawk or battle-axe in his hand.<a name="FNanchor_267" id="FNanchor_267" href="#Footnote_267" class="fnanchor">[267]</a>
+He appeared to stand very willingly as a <span class="opage">151</span> model for
+Mr. Bodmer, and remained the whole day in the position
+required, which, in general, the Indians find it difficult to do.
+The remainder of these people were now entirely without
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span>
+ornaments, naked, and the upper parts of their bodies
+not at all painted, but only wrapped in their buffalo robes.
+On their backs they carried their quivers, which were made
+of leather, in which their arrows are kept; they carry their
+bows in their hands.<a name="FNanchor_268" id="FNanchor_268" href="#Footnote_268" class="fnanchor">[268]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo287c" id="illo287c"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_288c.jpg" width="455" height="230" alt="Bows, arrows, and quiver" />
+<p class="caption">Bows, arrows, and quiver</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The features of the women resembled, on the whole, those
+we have already described, yet their faces, for the most part,
+were not so broad and flat as those of the Saukies, or Musquake
+women, and some were even pretty. The tents of
+the Sioux are high pointed cones, made of strong poles, covered
+with buffalo skins, closely sewed together. These skins
+are scraped on both sides, so that they become as transparent
+as parchment, and give free admission to the light. At the
+top, where the poles meet, or cross each other, there is an
+opening, to let out the smoke, which they endeavour to close
+by a piece of the skin covering of the tent, fixed to a separate
+pole standing upright, and fastened to the upper part of the
+covering on the side from which the wind blows. The door
+is a slit, in the front of the tent, which is generally closed
+by another piece of buffalo hide, stretched upon a frame.<a name="FNanchor_269" id="FNanchor_269" href="#Footnote_269" class="fnanchor">[269]</a>
+A small fire is kept up in the centre of the tent. Poles are
+stuck in the ground, near the tent, and utensils of various
+kinds are suspended from them. There are, likewise, stages,
+on which to hang the newly-tanned hides; others, with gaily-painted
+parchment pouches and bags,<a name="FNanchor_270" id="FNanchor_270" href="#Footnote_270" class="fnanchor">[270]</a> on some of which
+they hang their bows, arrows, quivers, leather shields, spears,
+and war clubs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo319" id="illo319"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_320a.jpg" width="468" height="315" alt="Tents of the Sioux" />
+<p class="caption">Tents of the Sioux</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We paid a visit to Wahktageli in his tent, and had some
+difficulty in creeping into the narrow, low entrance, after
+pulling aside the skin that covered it. The inside of this
+tent was <span class="opage">152</span> light, and it was about ten paces in diameter.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span>
+Buffalo skins were spread on the ground, upon which we
+sat down. Between us and the side of the tent were a variety
+of articles, such as pouches, boxes, saddles, arms, &amp;c. A
+relation of the chief was employed in making arrows, which
+were finished very neatly, and with great care. Wahktageli
+immediately, with much gravity, handed the tobacco-pipe
+round, and seemed to inhale the precious smoke with great
+delight. His wife was present; their children were married.
+The conversation was carried on by Cephier, the interpreter
+kept by the Agency, who accompanied us on this visit. It
+is the custom with all the North American Indians, on paying
+a visit, to enter in perfect silence, to shake hands with
+the host, and unceremoniously sit down beside him. Refreshments
+are then presented, which the Big Soldier could
+not do, as he himself stood in need of food. After this
+the pipe circulates. The owner of a neighbouring tent had
+killed a large elk, the skin of which the women were then
+busily employed in dressing. They had stretched it out, by
+means of leather straps, on the ground near the tent, and the
+women were scraping off the particles of flesh and fat with
+a very well-contrived instrument. It is made of bone, sharpened
+at one end, and furnished with little teeth like a saw,
+and, at the other end, a strap, which is fastened round the
+wrist. The skin is scraped with the sharp side of this instrument
+till it is perfectly clean.<a name="FNanchor_271" id="FNanchor_271" href="#Footnote_271" class="fnanchor">[271]</a> Several Indians have iron
+teeth fixed to this bone. Besides this operation, we took
+particular notice of the harness of the dogs and horses, hanging
+up near the tent, both these animals being indispensable
+to the Indians to transport their baggage on their journeys.
+Even the great tent, with many long, heavy poles, is carried
+by horses, as well as the semi-globular, transparent wicker
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span>
+panniers, under which the little children are protected against
+sun and rain, by spreading blankets and skins over them.
+Smaller articles are conveyed by the dogs, as we shall relate
+in the sequel. Many of the Sioux are rich, and have twenty
+or more horses, which they obtained originally from the
+Spaniards on the Mississippi, and the frontier of New Mexico
+on the Oregon, but which are now found in great numbers
+among the several Indian nations. One of their most
+important employments is to steal horses, and the theft of
+one of these animals, from another nation, is considered
+as an exploit, and as much, nay more honoured than the
+killing of an enemy. The dogs, whose flesh is eaten by
+the Sioux, are equally valuable to the Indians. In shape
+they differ very little from the wolf, and are equally large
+and strong. Some are of the real wolf colour; others black,
+white, or spotted with black and white, and differing only
+by the tail being rather more turned up. Their voice is not
+a proper barking, but a howl, like that of the wolf, and they
+partly descend from wolves, which approach the Indian
+huts, even in the daytime, and mix with the dogs.</p>
+
+<p>Among the peculiar customs of the Sioux is their treatment
+of the dead. Those who die <span class="opage">153</span> at home are sewed
+up, as I have before stated, in blankets and skins, in their
+complete dress, painted, and laid with their arms and other
+effects on a high stage, supported by four poles, till they
+are decomposed, when they are sometimes buried. Those
+who have been killed in battle are immediately interred on
+the spot. Sometimes, too, in times of peace, they bury their
+dead in the ground, and protect them against the wolves
+by a fence of wood and thorns. There were many such
+graves in the vicinity of the Sioux Agency, among which was
+that of the celebrated chief, Tschpunka, who was buried
+with his full dress and arms, and his face painted red. Very
+often, however, they lay their dead in trees; and we saw,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span>
+in the neighbourhood of this place, an oak, in which there
+were three bodies wrapped in skins. At the foot of the tree
+there was a small arbour, or shed, made of branches of poplar,
+which the relations had built for the purpose of coming
+to lament and weep over the dead, which they frequently
+do for several days successively. As a sign of mourning,
+they cut off their hair with the first knife that comes to hand,
+daub themselves with white clay, and give away all their
+best clothes and valuable effects, as well as those of the deceased,
+to the persons who happen to be present. The
+corpse of a young woman had been enveloped in skins about
+a week before, and placed between the branches of the oak,
+with six pieces of wood under it; and a little higher in the
+tree there was a child. Guided by the obliging interpreter,
+we viewed everything remarkable in the Sioux agency, which,
+indeed, is confined to the Indians and their mode of life.
+Major Bean had the kindness to accommodate us for the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>We passed the 26th of May here, when Mr. Bodmer finished
+his very capital likeness of Wahktageli. The elk,
+killed by the Indians, furnished us with fresh meat, and we
+considered ourselves very well off. In the afternoon, Messrs.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie and Sandford came from the Yellow Stone to
+visit us, and we returned on board in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning (27th) was cool, windy, and cloudy,
+and, at half-past seven, the thermometer at only 54�. It
+was so cold that we had fires in our cabins the whole day.
+Major Bean had the courtesy to present me with the complete
+dress of the Big Soldier, an interesting <i>souvenir</i> of the
+friendly reception we had met with in his house. The Assiniboin
+passed us rapidly in the afternoon, and we followed.
+A well-known Sioux chief, called Tukan Haton, and, by the
+Americans, the Little Soldier, was on board with his family,
+intending to accompany us to Fort Pi�rre, on the Teton
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span>
+River. These Indians were in mourning for some of their
+relations lately deceased; their dress was, therefore, as bad
+as possible, and their faces daubed with white clay. The
+Big Soldier also paid us a visit previous to our departure.
+He had no feathers on his head, but only a piece of red
+cloth. After receiving some food he took leave, and we saw
+the grotesque, tall figure stand for a long time motionless
+on the beach. As the vessel proceeded very quickly, our
+Indians laid down their heads as a sign that they were giddy,
+but they were soon relieved, as the water became shallow.
+We lay to not far above the stream which <span class="opage">154</span> Lewis and
+Clarke call the Three Rivers.<a name="FNanchor_272" id="FNanchor_272" href="#Footnote_272" class="fnanchor">[272]</a> Here we again had leisure
+to make an excursion in the wood, where the ground was
+covered with pea vine (<i>Apios tuberosa</i>),<a name="FNanchor_273" id="FNanchor_273" href="#Footnote_273" class="fnanchor">[273]</a> and a plant resembling
+convallaria. The Carolina pigeon was frequent
+here, and was sought after by our people for their dinner,
+to which the river contributed some cat-fish, of the usual
+olive-brown kind. Our Indians kindled their fire in the
+neighbouring wood, and lay around it, but soon returned to
+the vessel.</p>
+
+<p>Early on the 28th, part of the goods had been put into the
+keel-boat, to lighten the steamer, which was accomplished
+by eight o'clock. From this place to the Big Bend of the
+Missouri is fifteen miles, before reaching which we came to an
+island, which has been formed since Lewis and Clarke were
+there. The same stratum of coal, which I have before mentioned,
+ran along the hills, and was visible at a great distance.
+We soon overtook the Assiniboin, and reached the
+Big Bend which the Missouri takes round a flat point of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span>
+land; following the course of the river, it is twenty-five miles
+round, while the isthmus is only one mile and a half across.<a name="FNanchor_274" id="FNanchor_274" href="#Footnote_274" class="fnanchor">[274]</a>
+The large peninsula, round which the Missouri turns, is
+flat, and bordered with poplars and willows; the opposite
+bank is higher, steep, and bare. A couple of antelopes were,
+in this place, frightened by the noise of our steamer; these
+animals are said to be very numerous here in the winter
+time. The Little Soldier sat by the fireside, smoking his
+pipe, in doing which, like all the Indians, he inhaled the
+smoke, a custom which is, doubtless, the cause of many
+pectoral diseases. The tobacco, which the Indians of this
+part of the country smoke, is called kini-kenick, and consists
+of the inner green bark of the red willow, dried, and
+powdered, and mixed with the tobacco of the American
+traders. According to Say, they also smoke the leaves of
+the arrow-wood (<i>Viburnum</i>), when they have none of the
+bark.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th, we were nearly at the end of the Big Bend,
+and stopped, at seven o'clock in the morning, to cut down
+cedars. Here we ascended the lofty, steep hills, which were
+partly bare, and burnt black, and from which we had a
+view of the whole bend of the river. To the south, we saw
+the tops of the Medicine Hills, which are about eight miles
+from the Medicine Creek, on the west bank.<a name="FNanchor_275" id="FNanchor_275" href="#Footnote_275" class="fnanchor">[275]</a> Towards
+noon there appeared, on the western bank, steep, rocky walls,
+and, behind them, singularly-formed hills, some resembling
+pyramids, others, round towers, &amp;c. At this place we suddenly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span>
+espied a canoe, with four men in it, which touched at
+a sand bank; a boat was put out, and brought back two of
+the strangers, who proved to be Mr. Lamont, a member
+of the Fur Company, and Major Mitchell, one of their officers,
+and Director of Fort Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, which is situated near
+the falls of the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_276" id="FNanchor_276" href="#Footnote_276" class="fnanchor">[276]</a> They came last from Fort Pi�rre,
+and were on their way to St. Louis, but we persuaded them
+to return with us. Having taken in <span class="opage">155</span> wood on the morning
+of the 30th, we came to a leather tent on the bank, in
+which three of the Company's <i>engag�s</i> and some Indians
+lived, to take care of 100 horses, belonging to Fort Pi�rre.
+They had lately killed three antelopes, and gave us some of
+the fresh meat. At seven o'clock we had, on the right hand,
+Simoneau's Island, which, in Lewis and Clarke's map, is
+called Elk Island; it was covered with lofty, green poplars.<a name="FNanchor_277" id="FNanchor_277" href="#Footnote_277" class="fnanchor">[277]</a>
+Soon after twelve o'clock we came to a plantation, made
+by the inhabitants of Fort Pi�rre, where we found about
+ten men, who had got ready a great quantity of fine stack
+wood for our vessel. At this place, which is only three miles
+from the fort, we observed hills, of a singular form, often
+cleft perpendicularly, and, in the river, several islands, all
+of which have now different names from those given to them
+by Lewis and Clarke. Before six, in the evening, we reached
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span>
+the mouth of the Teton River, or the Little Missouri, which
+the Sioux call the Bad River. It rises in the Black Hills,
+and has a long course, with many windings; but is said, however,
+to be straight for 150 miles from the mouth. In this
+part of the Missouri are vast sand banks, on which we saw
+a numerous flock of pelicans. These birds, however, only
+stop here on their passage, and do not build their nests. The
+river is very wide at the mouth of the Teton, and has extensive
+low prairies, with a border of poplars and willows. The
+French Fur Company had formerly a fort just above the
+mouth of the Teton, which was abandoned when the Companies
+joined, and another built further up, which was called
+Fort Teton; this, too, was abandoned;<a name="FNanchor_278" id="FNanchor_278" href="#Footnote_278" class="fnanchor">[278]</a> and Fort Pi�rre
+(so called after Mr. Pi�rre Chouteau) was erected higher
+up, on the west bank, opposite an island.<a name="FNanchor_279" id="FNanchor_279" href="#Footnote_279" class="fnanchor">[279]</a></p>
+
+<p>The steamer had proceeded a little further, when we came
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span>
+in sight of the Fort, to the great joy of all on board: the
+colours were hoisted, both on the steamer and on the fort,
+which produced a very good effect between the trees on the
+bank; a small village, consisting of thirteen Sioux tents, lay
+on the left hand. Our steamer first began to salute with
+its cannon, which was returned from the shore by a running
+fire of musketry, and this was answered from our deck by
+a similar very brisk fire. Before we reached the landing-place,
+we perceived an isolated, decayed old house, the only
+remains of Fort Tecumseh,<a name="FNanchor_280" id="FNanchor_280" href="#Footnote_280" class="fnanchor">[280]</a> and, ten minutes afterwards,
+landed at Fort Pi�rre, on the fifty-first day of our voyage
+from St. Louis. A great crowd came to welcome us; we
+were received by the whole population, consisting of some
+hundred persons, with the white inhabitants at their head,
+the chief of whom was Mr. Laidlow, a proprietor of the
+Fur Company, who has the management at this place.<a name="FNanchor_281" id="FNanchor_281" href="#Footnote_281" class="fnanchor">[281]</a>
+There were many Indians among them, who had done their
+part to welcome us by firing their muskets, which they carried
+in their hands. There seemed to be no end of shaking
+hands; a thousand questions were asked, and the latest news,
+on both sides, was eagerly sought for. Mr. Fontenelle, who
+was to undertake a journey to the Rocky Mountains, was
+already here, having performed the journey, on horseback, in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span>
+eleven days. As soon as we set foot on land, we proceeded,
+accompanied by numbers of persons, to the Fort, to which
+there is a straight road of about a quarter of a mile. We
+put up at Mr. Laidlow's house, where we rested beside a
+good fire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo319b" id="illo319b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_320b.jpg" width="445" height="317" alt="Plan of Fort Pierre" />
+<p class="caption">Plan of Fort Pierre</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="opage">156</span> Fort Pi�rre is one of the most considerable settlements
+of the Fur Company on the Missouri, and forms a large
+quadrangle, surrounded by high pickets,<a name="FNanchor_282" id="FNanchor_282" href="#Footnote_282" class="fnanchor">[282]</a> round which the
+buildings stand in the manner already described. At the
+north-east and south-west corners there are block-houses,
+with embrasures, <i>f</i>, <i>f</i>, the fire of which commands the curtain;
+the upper story is adapted for small arms, and the lower
+for some cannon; each side of the quadrangle is 108 paces
+in length; the front and back, <i>g</i>, <i>g</i>, each 114 paces; the inner
+space eighty-seven paces in diameter. From the roof of the
+block-houses, which is surrounded with a gallery, there is
+a fine prospect over the prairie; and there is a flag-staff on
+the roof, on which the colours are hoisted. The timber
+for this fort was felled from forty to sixty miles up the river,
+and floated down, because none fit for the purpose was to
+be had in the neighbourhood. Mr. Laidlow's dwelling-house,
+<i>d</i>, <i>d</i>, consisted of one story only, but was very conveniently
+arranged, with large rooms, fire-places, and glass
+windows. Next this house was a smaller building, <i>e</i>, for the
+office and the residence of a clerk. The other clerks, the
+interpreters for the different Indian nations, the <i>engag�s</i> and
+their families, altogether above 100 persons, lived in the
+other buildings, <i>a</i>, <i>a</i>, <i>a</i>, <i>a</i>. Opposite, in <i>c</i>, <i>c</i>, were the stores,
+at that time of the value of 80,000 dollars; and in other
+rooms, the furs obtained from the Indians by barter. The
+fort has two large doors, <i>g</i>, <i>g</i>, opposite each other, which
+are shut in the evening; in <i>b</i> there was an enclosed piece of
+garden ground. The situation of the settlement is agreeable;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span>
+the verdant prairie is very extensive, animated by herds of
+cattle and horses; of the latter, Fort Pi�rre possessed 150,
+and of the former, thirty-six, which afforded a sufficient supply
+of milk and fresh butter. Indians, on foot and on horseback,
+were scattered all over the plain, and their singular
+stages for the dead were in great numbers near the Fort;
+immediately behind which, the leather tents of the Sioux
+Indians, of the branches of the Tetons and the Yanktons,
+stood, like a little village; among them the most distinguished
+was the tent of the old interpreter, Dorion, a half Sioux, who
+is mentioned by many travellers, and resides here with his
+Indian family.<a name="FNanchor_283" id="FNanchor_283" href="#Footnote_283" class="fnanchor">[283]</a> This tent was large, and painted red; at
+the top of the poles composing <span class="opage">157</span> it some scalps fluttered
+in the wind. A great number of Indian dogs surrounded
+this village, which did not differ from those we have already
+described. Many of them were perfectly similar to the wolf
+in form, size, and colour; they did not bark, but showed
+their teeth when any one approached them.</p>
+
+<p>Near the fort we roused, in the thickets, a Virginian deer,
+and saw wolves, in the middle of the day, prowling about
+in the prairies; but we could not get near them, and fired
+at them in vain with our rifles. Round an isolated tree in
+the prairie I observed a circle of holes in the ground, in
+which thick poles had stood. A number of buffalo skulls
+were piled up there; and we were told that this was a medicine,
+or charm, contrived by the Indians in order to entice
+the herds of buffaloes. Everywhere in the plain we saw
+circles of clods of earth, with a small circular ditch, where
+the tents of many Indians had stood. This time we visited
+the Indian tents uninvited; in that which we first entered there
+were several tall, good-looking men assembled; the owner
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span>
+of the tent was a man of middle-size; his complexion very
+light, and his features agreeable. His wives were dressed
+very neatly, and were remarkably clean, especially the one
+who appeared to be the principal; she wore a very elegant
+leather dress, with stripes and borders of azure and white
+beads, and polished metal buttons, and trimmed as usual
+at the bottom with fringes, round the ends of which lead is
+twisted, so that they tinkle at every motion. Her summer
+robe, which was dressed smooth on both sides, was painted
+red and black, on a yellowish white ground.<a name="FNanchor_284" id="FNanchor_284" href="#Footnote_284" class="fnanchor">[284]</a> She estimated
+all these articles of dress very highly. Among the
+effects piled up inside the tent, there were several interesting
+things, such as cradles for the infants, viz., ornamented
+boards, to which they are fastened with broad leathern straps,
+one passing over the head, and the other over the middle
+of the body. The workmanship of these leathern straps
+was remarkably neat and curious; for instance, they were
+entirely covered with a ground of milk-white porcupine quills,
+on which figures of men, of a vermilion colour, and black
+figures of dogs, and other similar patterns, were most tastefully
+embroidered, and all of the most lively and well-chosen
+colours. After we had conversed with the men, the pipe
+circulated. The pipes of <span class="opage">158</span> the Dacotas are very beautiful,<a name="FNanchor_285" id="FNanchor_285" href="#Footnote_285" class="fnanchor">[285]</a>
+in truth the most beautiful of all the North American
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span>
+Indians, which they make, in various forms, of the red indurated
+clay, or stone.<a name="FNanchor_286" id="FNanchor_286" href="#Footnote_286" class="fnanchor">[286]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo323" id="illo323"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_324a.jpg" width="556" height="271" alt="Dakota pipes" />
+<p class="caption">Dakota pipes</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The pipe has a long, flat, broad wooden tube, which is
+ornamented with tufts of horse-hair, dyed red, yellow, or
+green, and wound round with strings of porcupine quills of
+divers colours. We looked at the women as they were at
+work. For the shoes which they made they had softened
+the leather in a tub of water, and stretched it in the breadth
+and length with their teeth. In the middle of the hut was
+a fire, over which the kettle was suspended by a wooden
+hook; they now all use iron kettles, which they obtain from
+the traders. Before most of the tents poles were placed,
+leaning against each other, to which gaily-painted parchment
+pouches were hung, and likewise the medicine-bags,
+as they are called, in which the medicine, or charms, are
+preserved, and which they open and consult only on solemn
+or important occasions, such as campaigns and the like.
+Here, too, were suspended the bow and quiver of arrows,
+spears, and a round shield of thick leather, with a thin cover,
+also of the same material. In another tent the women were
+dressing the skins, either with a pumice-stone, or with the
+before-described toothed instrument, which was here entirely
+of iron. They then pulled the skin over a line, in all directions,
+backwards and forwards, to make it pliable.</p>
+
+<p>The Sioux at Fort Pi�rre were in general slender, sometimes
+muscular-men, of middling stature, though some of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span>
+them were tall. They had oval faces, with prominent cheek-bones,
+slightly-curved and well-formed noses; the inner angle
+of the eye often drawn down. Their faces were painted red,
+some with white rings round the eyes, and others with a
+black point on the forehead, or a white circle with a black
+point on each cheek. Some had strings of wampum in
+their ears, but the greater part of them strings of white
+or blue glass beads, and round their necks an elegant, and
+frequently broad necklace, embroidered with white beads.
+The neck and breast of several were marked with dark blue
+tattooed stripes, or only with some small figures. These
+Indians let their hair grow as long as possible, and plait it
+behind in a long tail, which is ornamented with round pieces
+of brass, and often hangs down to a great length, as among
+the Chinese. Many of the Dacotas have three such tails,
+one behind, and one at each side, for the Indians on the
+Upper Missouri take much pride in long hair, whereas those
+in the country lower <span class="opage">159</span> down the river, cut it short. Some
+wore feathers in their hair, which are tokens of their exploits,
+and are determined with great precision, according to the
+merit of the wearer. The annexed figure of a Dacota shows
+the manner in which the hair is divided into plaits.<a name="FNanchor_287" id="FNanchor_287" href="#Footnote_287" class="fnanchor">[287]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo323d" id="illo323d"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_324d.jpg" width="272" height="334" alt="A Dakota, with plaited hair" />
+<p class="caption">A Dakota, with plaited hair</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The women wore their hair hanging down, naturally parted
+on the middle of the head, and the parting painted red.
+Their robes were coloured red and black. Their shoes are
+neatly ornamented with various figures made of dyed porcupine
+quills. I purchased several Dacota shoes; and, among
+them, a pair, on the upper part of which the figure of a
+bear's footstep was very neatly embroidered in bright colours.<a name="FNanchor_288" id="FNanchor_288" href="#Footnote_288" class="fnanchor">[288]</a>
+The old women are generally very ugly and dirty,
+as they are obliged to do very hard work.</p>
+
+<p>The Sioux, who live on Teton River, near Fort Pi�rre,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span>
+are mostly of the branch of the Tetons; though there are
+some Yanktons here. The former are divided into five
+branches, and the latter into three.<a name="FNanchor_289" id="FNanchor_289" href="#Footnote_289" class="fnanchor">[289]</a> Like all the North
+American Indians, they highly prize personal bravery, and,
+therefore, constantly wear the marks of distinction which
+they have received for their exploits; among these are, especially,
+tufts of human hair attached to their arms and legs,
+and feathers on their heads. He who, in the sight of the
+adversaries, touches a slain or a living enemy, places a feather
+horizontally in his hair for this exploit. They look upon
+this as a very distinguished act, for many are often killed in
+the attempt, before the object is attained. He who kills
+an enemy by a blow with his fist, sticks a feather upright
+in his hair. If the enemy is killed with a musket, a small
+piece of wood is put in the hair, which is intended to represent
+a ramrod. If a warrior is distinguished by many deeds,
+he has a right to wear the great feather-cap, with ox-horns,
+<span class="opage">160</span> which will be described in the sequel. This cap, composed
+of eagle's feathers, which are fastened to a long strip
+of red cloth, hanging down the back, is highly valued by
+all the tribes on the Missouri, and they never part with it
+except for a good horse. In a battle with the Pawnees, a
+Sioux chief was killed, who wore such a cap; the conqueror
+wore it as a trophy, and the Sioux recognized him by it in
+the next battle; they made great efforts to kill him, and
+succeeded in wounding him; but his horse was too fleet for
+them, and he always escaped. Whoever first discovers the
+enemy, and gives notice to his comrades of their approach,
+is allowed to wear a small feather, which is stripped, except
+towards the top.<a name="FNanchor_290" id="FNanchor_290" href="#Footnote_290" class="fnanchor">[290]</a> The scalps taken in battle are drawn
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span>
+over small hoops, and hung on the top of the tent-poles.
+He who takes a prisoner wears a particular bracelet. These
+Indians frequently possess from thirty to forty horses, and
+are then reckoned to be rich. The tents are generally composed
+of fourteen skins, each worth two dollars. We were
+told, that wealthy people sometimes have eight or nine wives,
+because they are able to support them. The Sioux do not
+understand the treatment of diseases, but generally cure
+wounds very well. Before their death, they usually determine
+whether they will be buried, or be placed on a stage,
+or in a tree.</p>
+
+<p>There was, among the Dacotas at this place, a young
+Punca Indian, whose name was Ho-Ta-Ma, a handsome,
+friendly man, who often amused himself with different games;
+frequently he was seen with his comrades playing at what
+was called the hoop game, at which sticks, covered with
+leather, are thrown through a hoop in motion. In the daytime
+the Indians were often seen galloping their horses, mostly
+riding on their bare backs: sometimes they ran races, as
+Mr. Bodmer has represented.<a name="FNanchor_291" id="FNanchor_291" href="#Footnote_291" class="fnanchor">[291]</a> In the evening they drive
+their horses into the fort, as they are more safe from a hostile
+attack, and horse-stealing is universally practised by the
+Indians. The Indian families residing here are mostly related
+to the white inhabitants of the fort, and, therefore,
+constantly abide near them. The men lead a very indolent
+life; for, besides the chase and war, their only occupations
+are eating, smoking, sleeping, and making their weapons.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay here, on board the vessel, we were continually
+besieged by Indians, who did not move from the
+spot. Our time was, therefore, divided between these visitors
+and our excursions into the prairie. On the 2nd of
+June, 7,000 buffalo skins and other furs were put on board
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span>
+the Yellow Stone, with which it was to return to St. Louis.
+We took this opportunity of sending letters to Europe: the
+Assiniboin was assigned us for the continuation of the voyage.
+The weather, at this time, was very unfavourable;
+it rained at a temperature of 57�, and we were obliged to
+have a fire in our cabin throughout the day. The Assiniboin
+had already taken our baggage on board, but still lay
+on the east bank, for an attempt to bring it over to our
+side had failed, because the water was too low. In the afternoon,
+when we visited Mr. Laidlow in the fort, six Sioux,
+from the prairie, arrived on horseback, whose horde, of 200
+tents, was at the distance of a <span class="opage">161</span> day's journey. They
+brought word that, two days' march from the fort, there
+were numerous herds of buffaloes. Among these new comers
+there were some elderly men; the plaits of their hair
+were wound about with strips of skin, and their faces were
+painted red; their bodies were fleshy, which was a proof
+that they had suffered less from hunger than those in the
+fort. They paid a visit first to the Assiniboin, and then to Mr.
+Laidlow, who gave them food and tobacco. Mr. Lamont,
+who had taken leave of us to-day, to go by the steam-boat
+to St. Louis, embarked with some of the Company's clerks:
+he was saluted with several cannon shot, and before evening
+the Yellow Stone rapidly descended the river. While
+Messrs. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, Sandford, and Mitchell took up their
+abode in the fort, we went on board the Assiniboin, from
+which I made, on the 4th of June, an interesting excursion
+into the prairie, in order to make myself acquainted with
+the eastern bank.</p>
+
+<p>I left the vessel at half-past seven o'clock, the thermometer
+being at 59�, and immediately ascended the steep eminences,
+of which the lower were covered partly with bright green,
+partly with dry, yellow grass, and the higher ones bare, with
+the surface frequently blackened by fire. A path, trodden
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span>
+by the elks to the river, led me to the highest summit, from
+which I had a pleasing prospect of the opposite bank and
+the fort. It lay, clearly delineated, in the extensive verdant
+plain, bounded by a singular chain of hills; and I again
+distinguished, half way up the mountains, the black stripe
+of the extensive stratum of coal. At noon it was warm
+and I returned much heated, the thermometer being at 72�.
+We received a visit from six or seven newly arrived Tetons,
+whom the interpreter, Dorion, introduced to us. They were
+particularly interested by the steam-boat, and, after they
+had very minutely examined it, they were served with dinner
+and pipes. The dinner chiefly consisted of bacon, which
+the Indians do not like; <span class="opage">162</span> they, however, swallowed it,
+in order that they might not appear uncourteous. Among
+them was a Teton, named Wah-Menitu (the spirit, or god,
+in the water), and who had such a voracious appetite, that
+he devoured everything which the others had left; his face
+was painted red; he had a remarkably projecting upper
+lip, and an aquiline nose much bent. In his hair, which
+hung in disorder about his head, with a plait coming over
+one of his eyes or nose, the feather of a bird of prey was
+placed horizontally; but observe that he had a right to
+wear three. Mr. Bodmer, who desired to draw this man's
+portrait, gave him some vermilion, on which he spat, and
+rubbed his face with it, drawing parallel lines, in the red
+colour, with a wooden stick.<a name="FNanchor_292" id="FNanchor_292" href="#Footnote_292" class="fnanchor">[292]</a> Wah-Menitu stayed on
+board for the night; sung, talked, laughed, and joked without
+ceasing; and seemed quite to enjoy himself.
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo323c" id="illo323c"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_324c.jpg" width="238" height="309" alt="A Teton" />
+<p class="caption">A Teton</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER XIII</p>
+
+<p class="center">VOYAGE FROM FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON RIVER, TO FORT CLARKE,
+NEAR THE VILLAGES OF THE MANDANS, FROM
+JUNE 5TH TO JUNE 19TH</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Singular conformation of the Country&mdash;Traces of Fire&mdash;Chayenne
+Island and River&mdash;Former abode of the Arikkaras&mdash;The Woodcutters
+alarmed by the Indians&mdash;Cabris or Antelopes&mdash;Wolves and
+other Animals&mdash;Little Chayenne River&mdash;Abundance of Game&mdash;Traces
+of the Beaver, and of the breaking-up of the Ice&mdash;Moreau's
+River&mdash;Grand or Wetarko River&mdash;Rampart River&mdash;The two
+abandoned Villages of the Arikkaris&mdash;La Butte au Gr�s&mdash;La Butte
+de Chayenne&mdash;Murder of Whites by the Arikkaras&mdash;Cannon-ball
+River, with its Sand-stone Balls&mdash;Heart River&mdash;La Butte Carr�e&mdash;Interview
+with the Yanktonans&mdash;Fort Clarke, near the Mandan
+Villages&mdash;The Mandans&mdash;The Crows.</p>
+
+<p>Our departure was delayed till ten o'clock on the 5th of
+June, when three guns were fired, and we left the fort. The
+Assiniboin was perfectly equipped for the voyage up the
+river, and had sixty men on board. Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie had
+remained behind in the fort, but overtook us at noon with
+Mr. Laidlow, who was desirous to accompany us a little way.
+We had stopped at an island called, by the Canadians, Isle
+au Village de Terre, because, on the other side of the channel
+which divides it from the continent, there was formerly a
+village of the Sioux. This island was covered with an almost
+impenetrable thicket of narrow-leaved willows, which
+was so dense and entangled, that one of our large dogs
+caught an elk calf alive; we heard its moaning, but were not
+able to find it. The next morning the thermometer was
+at 66��. We were obliged to unload some goods, and to
+lighten our vessel, and our hunters brought us many interesting
+objects, particularly several birds, among which was
+the grey butcher-bird (<i>Lanius excubitoroides</i>), of which Richardson
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span>
+gives a representation, and which we had not met
+with before. Though antelopes and a white wolf had approached
+very closely to them, our hunters had not been
+able to kill any large animals. The addition to our Flora
+was very considerable. The hills all consisted of clammy,
+greasy, sterile clay, which was burnt on the surface, and
+covered with pieces of stone; and in many places we observed
+on them round masses, which looked as if they had
+been <span class="opage">164</span> melted and formed by fire. We stayed here till
+noon on the 7th of June, when we again proceeded with an
+agreeable temperature of 77��. We ran aground several
+times, and at last took in our goods, which we had deposited
+on the left bank. This delay gave us time to make an excursion.
+In company with Mr. Bodmer, I ascended the
+slippery, very steep eminences along the river, the singular
+shapes of which often appeared to form perfect craters. The
+earth and stones everywhere indicated that they had undergone
+change by fire. The earth was hard, friable, with many
+crevices&mdash;the stones brown, blackish, and often looking
+like scori�. This clay, when wet, is exceedingly clammy
+and tough. The conical summits, most of which were perfectly
+round and pyramidal, were most singularly formed.
+At the top there were always very regular, parallel, horizontal
+rings; the lower parts of the pyramid had perpendicular
+furrows, or clefts, as the <a href="#illo323b">annexed woodcut</a> shows.<a name="FNanchor_293" id="FNanchor_293" href="#Footnote_293" class="fnanchor">[293]</a> These
+conical hills have been evidently elevated by fire, so that
+many crater-like hollows are seen between and near them.
+In the furrows and clefts of these singular hills, many low
+plants grow, and form regular net-like green stripes on the
+bare black clay. These lines, intersecting each other, divide
+the surface into regular beds. The lower part of these
+eminences is generally covered with plants, particularly
+grasses, while the upper is bare, or merely crossed with the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span>
+transverse stripes of verdure, and often they are entirely
+bare. The climbing up these high, slippery ascents in the
+heat of the day was rather fatiguing. When we came into
+the clefts between the pyramids, we found the ground, in
+general, slimy, and so adhesive that we were almost compelled
+to leave our shoes behind. In such places, some old
+red cedars, groups of the bird cherry, ashes, roses, &amp;c., were
+nourished by the moisture. Near the hills, and in the plain,
+a cactus, with roundish, flat joints, grew in abundance. It
+was not yet in blossom, and I cannot say whether it is the
+plant taken, by Nuttall, for <i>Cactus opuntia</i>; probably it is
+<i>Cactus ferox</i>. We found many traces of antelopes and of
+herds of buffaloes. The latter had everywhere trodden
+broad paths on their way to the river to drink. No beast
+of the chase presented itself as an object for our rifles, and,
+as the sun was going down, we set out on our return. On
+the way we <span class="opage">165</span> found the horns of an elk, with twelve
+antlers, and it was late before we reached the Assiniboin.
+On the 8th of June, in the morning, we received a farewell
+visit from Mr. Laidlow, and then saw Mr. Fontenelle's party,
+consisting of sixty men and 185 horses, pass along over the
+hills. They rode in our sight through the stream called,
+by the Anglo-Americans, Breechcloth Creek, and, by the
+Sioux, Tscheh-ke-na-ka-oah-ta-pah.<a name="FNanchor_294" id="FNanchor_294" href="#Footnote_294" class="fnanchor">[294]</a> This stream, as well
+as most of the small rivers of the prairie, not excepting even
+the Little Sioux River, have, in general, a brackish taste when
+the water is low. Frequently taking soundings, we proceeded
+but slowly in the shallow Missouri, and, early in the afternoon,
+reached the place where the timber for building Fort
+Pi�rre had been felled. From this place it is fifteen miles
+to the mouth of the Chayenne River. Finding some cords
+of wood ready piled up, we took them on board. At sunset,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>
+a high wind arose, so that we could not reach the mouth of
+the Chayenne till about seven o'clock on the following morning,
+after passing Chayenne Island. The country about
+the mouth of this river is open, the chain of hills low, and
+the banks covered with forests. At its mouth, and for some
+way up on both sides of the Missouri, the Arikkaras formerly
+dwelt, till they were driven further up by the Sioux, and, at
+length, wholly retired from the banks of the Missouri.<a name="FNanchor_295" id="FNanchor_295" href="#Footnote_295" class="fnanchor">[295]</a> If
+we follow the course of the Chayenne for a couple of hundred
+miles up to the Black Hills, we come to the dwellings
+of the Chayenne Indians, who are hostile to most of the
+tribes of the Missouri. They are said to be tall, slender
+men, with long, narrow faces, and differing in their language
+from all the other tribes in the country. They formerly lived
+at the mouth of Chayenne River. They affirm that they
+came to the Missouri from the north-east.<a name="FNanchor_296" id="FNanchor_296" href="#Footnote_296" class="fnanchor">[296]</a> Dr. Morse
+states their number at 3,250 souls.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo323b" id="illo323b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_324b.jpg" width="226" height="181" alt="Hill of baked clay" />
+<p class="caption">Hill of baked clay</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We made but slow progress to-day; and at two o'clock,
+after our boats had taken soundings in all directions, we remained
+fast aground, and had burnt all our fuel, so that
+we had to send wood-cutters into the forests on the left bank.
+In about half an hour the boats suddenly returned, bringing
+word that hostile Indians had been seen in the forest,
+and the wood-cutters had, therefore, refused to begin their
+work. To give them courage, and to protect them during
+their work, all hands on board, that could be spared, armed
+themselves with rifles and muskets, and, to the number of
+twenty-six persons, immediately went on shore. They formed
+a line of outposts behind the trees, under whose protection
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span>
+the wood-cutters pursued their work. But they were not
+disturbed, for the Indians had retired, or it had been a false
+alarm. We lay to for the night on the west bank; a strong
+wind had risen, with a pretty high temperature, which continued
+till the following morning, the 10th of June. Early on
+that day we reached an island, which appears to be that called,
+by Lewis and Clarke, Caution Island, where a couple of
+white wolves gazed at us without appearing to be at all afraid.
+In the afternoon, we came to the mouth of Little Chayenne
+River, on the east bank.<a name="FNanchor_297" id="FNanchor_297" href="#Footnote_297" class="fnanchor">[297]</a> Elks are very numerous in these
+parts; on the following morning we saw a herd of, at least,
+thirty of these large animals, as well as a great many wolves,
+often three or four together, most of them white. The wood,
+on the high bank, bore marks of <span class="opage">166</span> the breaking up of
+the ice, the bark of the trees being peeled off eight or ten
+feet above ground. At noon, Mr. Bodmer had shot a very
+large male antelope, which we despatched some of the people
+to bring on board; other hunters, who had gone out early
+to the east bank, made signs that they had killed some game;
+and the boat which we sent to them returned in the evening
+with four large elks. In the thick forest, on the left bank,
+were many traces of beavers, which are more numerous hereabouts
+than in most of the other parts on the Missouri, because
+the trappers (beaver catchers) did not venture to place
+their traps in the territory of the hostile Arikkara Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to the mouth of Otter Creek,<a name="FNanchor_298" id="FNanchor_298" href="#Footnote_298" class="fnanchor">[298]</a> in the woods and
+thickets of the west bank, behind which rose the green hills
+of the prairie, there were many elks, which were frightened
+by the noise of the steamer. In this forest we found an uninhabited
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span>
+loghouse, 180 steps from which runs a pretty river,
+called Moreau's River, from a man of that name who passed
+the night here with a Chayenne Indian woman, who had
+been taken by the Arikkaras and escaped.<a name="FNanchor_299" id="FNanchor_299" href="#Footnote_299" class="fnanchor">[299]</a> She stabbed
+him while he slept, and fled on his horse to her own nation.
+This river is called the southern boundary of the territory
+of the Arikkaras, though they often make excursions far
+beyond it. We stopped at the above-mentioned loghouse
+to cut wood, but it was found more convenient to pull down
+part of the old building and take it away. On the morning
+of the 12th, our cannon, muskets and rifles were loaded
+with ball, because we were approaching the villages of the
+hostile Arikkaras. We came to Grand River, called in Lewis
+and Clarke's map Wetarko River. As we here touched the
+bottom, we crossed to the east bank, and in half an hour
+reached Rampart River,<a name="FNanchor_300" id="FNanchor_300" href="#Footnote_300" class="fnanchor">[300]</a> which issues from a narrow chain
+of hills, called Les Ramparts; and soon afterwards an island
+covered with willows, which, on the large special map of
+Lewis and Clarke, has an Arikkara village, of which there
+are now no traces.<a name="FNanchor_301" id="FNanchor_301" href="#Footnote_301" class="fnanchor">[301]</a> From the hills we had a fine prospect
+over the bend of the river, on which the villages of the Arikkaras
+are situated, and which we reached after a short run
+of only two miles.</p>
+
+<p>The two villages of this tribe are on the west bank, very
+near each other, but separated by a small stream. They
+consist of a great number of clay huts, round at the top, with
+a square entrance in front, and the whole surrounded with
+a fence of stakes, which were much decayed, and in many
+places thrown down. It is not quite a year since these villages
+had been wholly abandoned, because their inhabitants,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span>
+who were extremely hostile to the Whites, killed so many
+Americans, that they themselves foresaw that they would
+be severely chastised by the United States, and therefore
+preferred to emigrate. To this cause was added, a dry,
+unproductive season, when the crops entirely failed; as well
+as the absence of the herds of buffaloes, which hastened their
+removal. It is said that these Indians now roam about on
+the road from St. Louis to Santa F�, and the late attacks
+on the caravans are ascribed to them.<a name="FNanchor_302" id="FNanchor_302" href="#Footnote_302" class="fnanchor">[302]</a> Mr. Bodmer made
+an accurate drawing of these deserted villages. The principal
+chief of the Arikkaras, when they retired from <span class="opage">167</span> the
+Missouri, was called Starapat<a name="FNanchor_303" id="FNanchor_303" href="#Footnote_303" class="fnanchor">[303]</a> (the little hawk, with bloody
+claws), and generally La Main pleine de Sang, who will be
+mentioned in the sequel.</p>
+
+<p>The Arikkaras, or, as they are called by the Mandans,
+Rikkaras or Rees, Les Ris of the Canadians, are a branch
+of the Pawnees, from whom they long since separated. Their
+language, which is very easy for a German to pronounce,
+is said to be a proof of this affinity. Their number is supposed
+to be still 4000 souls, among whom 500 or 600 are
+able to bear arms. The wife of La Chapelle, the interpreter
+for that nation, was an Arikkara; she had a round full countenance,
+and rather delicate small features, with a very light
+yellowish complexion. It is affirmed that the women of this
+nation are the handsomest on the Missouri. Manoel Lisa,
+a well-known fur trader, had formerly built a trading house
+in this country, of which nothing now remains; though the
+place is still called Manoel Lisa's Fort.<a name="FNanchor_304" id="FNanchor_304" href="#Footnote_304" class="fnanchor">[304]</a> The prairie was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span>
+to-day more verdant and pleasant than yesterday. A mountain,
+with some remarkable summits, called La Butte au
+Gr�s, gave it some diversity. Here we suddenly saw, on
+the bank, a man, who fired his musket three times, and at
+first took him for an Indian; but another soon appeared, in
+a small leathern boat, and we learnt that both were <i>engag�s</i>
+or travellers of the Company, who were dispatched from the
+Upper Missouri, with letters for Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie. We took
+them in, and the little leathern boat was left lying on the
+beach. In the distance, on the left, there was a chain of
+mountains, with numerous summits, near which Cannon-ball
+River flows; and, nearer to the Missouri, a chain of
+flat hills, level at the top, with many clefts, called La Butte
+de Chayenne.<a name="FNanchor_305" id="FNanchor_305" href="#Footnote_305" class="fnanchor">[305]</a> In this neighbourhood we saw a high tree
+in a poplar wood, entirely covered with turkey buzzards, as
+in Brazil; towards evening we passed Beaver Creek (Rivi�re
+au Castor), the Warananno<a name="FNanchor_306" id="FNanchor_306" href="#Footnote_306" class="fnanchor">[306]</a> of Lewis and Clarke.<a name="FNanchor_307" id="FNanchor_307" href="#Footnote_307" class="fnanchor">[307]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 14th, in the morning, the sky was clouded, and
+the wind very bleak. On the west bank of the river a ravine
+was shown us, where, seven or eight years before, the Arikkaras
+had shot seven white men, who were towing a loaded
+Mackinaw boat up the river.</p>
+
+<p>After we had passed an island, which is not marked in
+Lewis and Clarke's map, we observed two isolated table
+mountains in the prairie, on the west bank, which are not
+far from Cannon-ball River; and we then came to an aperture
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span>
+in the chain of hills, from which this river, which
+was very high, issues.<a name="FNanchor_308" id="FNanchor_308" href="#Footnote_308" class="fnanchor">[308]</a> On the north side of the mouth,
+there was a steep, yellow clay wall; and on the southern,
+a flat, covered with poplars and willows. This
+river has its name from the singular regular sand-stone balls
+which are found in its banks, and in those of the Missouri
+in its vicinity. They are of various sizes, from that of a
+musket ball to that of a large bomb, and lie irregularly on
+the bank, or in the strata, from which they often project
+to half their thickness <span class="opage">168</span> when the river has washed away
+the earth; they then fall down, and are found in great numbers
+on the bank. Such sand-stone balls are met with in
+many places on the Upper Missouri; and former travellers
+have spoken of them. Many of them are rather elliptical,
+others are more flattened, and others flat on one side, and
+rather convex on the other. Of the perfectly spherical balls,
+I observed some two feet in diameter. On the steep bank
+of the Missouri we saw many such balls projecting from the
+narrow strata of the yellow sand-stone. A mile above the
+mouth of the Cannon-ball River, I saw no more of them.
+The Missouri had risen considerably; and, during the night,
+our people were obliged to keep off, with long poles, the
+trunks of trees that came floating down the river, without
+being able to prevent our receiving shocks which made the
+whole vessel tremble.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo347" id="illo347"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_348a.jpg" width="515" height="245" alt="Antlers of deer" />
+<p class="caption">Antlers of deer</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the 15th, the river had risen nine inches, and brought
+down much wood and foam, which was expected, for it is
+reckoned that, in the month of June, the Missouri is twice
+much swollen from the melting of the snow in the Rocky
+Mountains. The weather was serene and warm. As early
+as half-past five o'clock we saw, on the eastern bank, a chain
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span>
+of table hills, quite flat at the top, which extends to a pretty
+considerable distance. The river turns, to the westward,
+towards this interesting chain, which is called the Mountains
+of the Old Mandan Village, because, at the place where it
+is traversed by the river, such a village is said to have formerly
+stood. At nine o'clock we stopped on the western
+bank to repair the damage the vessel had sustained, which
+gave our hunters time to make an excursion a few miles into
+the prairie. Towards eleven o'clock the bell gave the signal
+for departure. The current of the river was now very
+strong, so that we could proceed but slowly. We came to
+the site of the old Mandan village, which was situated, at
+the foot of the hills, in a fine meadow near the river; some
+poles, that were still standing, were the only remains of it;
+there was no village here at the time of Lewis and Clarke's
+journey. Dry, yellow grass now covered the place which
+had once been the scene of busy Indian life: only a colony
+of swallows, that had built their nests in the neighbouring
+hills, gave some animation to the scene. We were now in
+the territory of the Indian tribe of the Mandans.<a name="FNanchor_309" id="FNanchor_309" href="#Footnote_309" class="fnanchor">[309]</a> A little
+further up, we saw four of our hunters sitting on the level
+ground, which was covered with poplars; one of them, Ortubize,
+the Sioux interpreter, had killed a Virginian deer,
+and wounded a large elk, which had escaped; soon after,
+Messrs. Bodmer and Harvey<a name="FNanchor_310" id="FNanchor_310" href="#Footnote_310" class="fnanchor">[310]</a> arrived quite fatigued and
+heated; they had gone a great way, and very nearly missed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span>
+the steamer. Mr. Harvey had killed a black-tailed or mule
+deer.<a name="FNanchor_311" id="FNanchor_311" href="#Footnote_311" class="fnanchor">[311]</a> They had met with four of these animals, and
+brought the <span class="opage">169</span> head and skin, with some of the flesh of
+the one killed. At the next place, where we reached the
+hills, an isolated summit rose above the rest, which is called
+Bald Eagle Head; these hills were beautifully illumined with
+the setting sun; we saw the white wolves trotting about on
+them, and some swans were swimming in the river. On
+the eastern bank we saw the ruins of an old trading house,
+and many traces of beavers. Near the mouth of Apple Creek
+we took in wood, and saw, on the left hand, the continuation
+of a chain of hills, of very singular forms.<a name="FNanchor_312" id="FNanchor_312" href="#Footnote_312" class="fnanchor">[312]</a> The night
+swallows flew over the river at an early hour, and a large
+beaver appeared among the willows, which we shot at without
+success. The 16th of June set in with a high northeast
+wind, accompanied with rain. We soon reached the
+mouth of Heart River,<a name="FNanchor_313" id="FNanchor_313" href="#Footnote_313" class="fnanchor">[313]</a> but the wind drove our vessel towards
+the bank, and we were obliged to lay to at six o'clock;
+and it was not till the evening that the wind so far abated
+as to allow us to continue our voyage. The next morning,
+early, we came in sight of the Butte Carr�e.<a name="FNanchor_314" id="FNanchor_314" href="#Footnote_314" class="fnanchor">[314]</a> In the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span>
+willow thickets, on the bank, a very fine buffalo bull stood
+within half musket-shot; our people fired, but to no purpose.
+Soon after, we saw, in the prairie, two more very
+large animals of this species; and, in the course of the day,
+perceived a great number of them. The river brought down
+several dead buffalo cows. A little before the mouth of
+Lewis and Clarke's Hunting Creek,<a name="FNanchor_315" id="FNanchor_315" href="#Footnote_315" class="fnanchor">[315]</a> the Missouri is half
+a mile broad, but soon becomes narrower. At eight o'clock
+we reached the place where a Mandan village had formerly
+stood.<a name="FNanchor_316" id="FNanchor_316" href="#Footnote_316" class="fnanchor">[316]</a> The Sioux, from St. Peter's River, surprised it
+about forty years ago, killed most of the inhabitants, and
+destroyed the huts. The prairie hills formed, in this part,
+long, flat, naked ridges, perfectly resembling the walls of
+a fortress. The oaks and ashes, at the edge of the thickets,
+were but just <span class="opage">170</span> beginning to unfold their buds. It is
+probable, however, that they had suffered by a fire in the
+prairie. After we had passed, alternately, prairies, with
+their hills, steep clay banks, and stripes of forest, we prosecuted
+our voyage till dusk, and lay to near a large willow
+thicket, on the eastern bank, when some musket shots were
+suddenly heard, the flashes of which were evidently seen.
+Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie immediately supposed that it was an Indian
+war party, which people, in general, avoid, as they do not
+much trust them. We consulted what was to be done.
+Many shots followed, which made a very loud report, it
+being the custom of the Indians to use a great deal of powder;
+and we soon perceived, among the dark thickets, the
+figures of the Indians in their white buffalo robes. As
+nobody knew the intentions of these people, we looked forward
+to the meeting with some anxiety. The Indians broke
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span>
+silence first, calling out that they were come with peaceable
+intentions, and wished to be taken on board. Ortubize,
+the interpreter, telling us that they were Sioux, of the branch
+of the Yanktonans, we conferred some time with them, while
+a kind of bridge of planks was thrown across to the shore.
+Twenty-three, for the most part tall men, came on board,
+and were made to sit down, in a row, on one side of the
+large cabin. They came from a camp of the Yanktonans,
+consisting of 300 tents, which was in the neighbourhood;
+they generally lived on the banks of the Chayenne, which
+falls into the Red River, near the Devil's Lake, and the
+sources of St. Peter's River.<a name="FNanchor_317" id="FNanchor_317" href="#Footnote_317" class="fnanchor">[317]</a> They had been hunting in
+the neighbourhood, and shot some buffaloes. The Yanktonans
+are represented as the most perfidious and dangerous
+of all the Sioux, and are stated frequently to have killed
+white men, especially Englishmen, in these parts. They
+generally come to the Missouri in the winter, but at this
+season it was a mere chance that we met with them. They
+were mostly robust, slender, well-shaped men, with long
+dishevelled hair, in which some wore feathers as indications
+of their exploits. The upper parts of their bodies were generally
+naked, merely covered with the buffalo's skin, or
+blanket; but their whole dress was plain and indifferent,
+as they only came out for a hunting excursion. The chief
+of these people was Tatanka-Kta (the dead buffalo), a man
+of middling stature, with a very dark brown, expressive
+countenance, and his hair bound together over the forehead
+in a thick knot; he was dressed in a uniform of red cloth,
+with blue facings and collar, and ornamented with silver
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span>
+trimmings, such as the traders are used to give, or to sell
+to such chiefs as they desire to distinguish. In his hand he
+had the wing of an eagle for a fan.</p>
+
+<p>After we had smoked with these Yanktonans all round,
+the chief opened, before Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, a bag, with old
+pemmican (dry meat powdered), by way of present, and
+then rose to make a speech. After shaking hands, successively,
+with all persons present, he said, with much gesticulation,
+and in short sentences, between which he appeared
+to be reflecting, "that the whole body of the 300 huts was
+under the principal chief, Jawitschahka; that his people
+had been formerly on good terms with the Mandans, but
+had been at variance with them for about a year, on account
+of the murder of a Sioux, and now wished to make peace
+again; that with this view <span class="opage">171</span> they had sent three of their
+people to the Mandan villages, but did not know the result;
+and, therefore, were very desirous of the mediation of Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie; that they happened to be near the river, when
+they perceived their father's ship, and were come to visit
+him; that to be able to supply the Fur Company with more
+beaver skins, they wished to have liberty to hunt on the
+Missouri, and on that account peace with the Mandans was
+of importance to them. They hoped, therefore, that Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie would intercede for them, and allow them to accompany
+him." The answer was&mdash;"That if, like the other
+tribes of their nation, who lived constantly on the Missouri,
+they would, in future, conduct themselves properly, and
+never kill white men, he would attempt all that lay in his
+power; but he bade them consider what would be the best
+for them, whether to come on board with him, or to go alone
+by land to the Mandan villages, as he did not know how
+they might be received by the young men of the Mandan
+tribe." These Indians showed us a beautiful skin of a young,
+white, female buffalo, which they intended as a present for
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span>
+the Mandans, by whom such skins are highly valued. They
+had already sent them a white buffalo calf. Our visitors
+were afterwards taken into another apartment, where refreshments
+were set before them, and they were lodged for
+the night. The next morning, however, they went ashore,
+and proceeded to Fort Clarke on foot. During the night
+there was a violent tempest, and the next morning, the 18th
+June, was gloomy, damp, and windy. We left at an early
+hour the place of the meeting, from which it was twelve
+miles to Fort Clarke. The Yanktonans, keeping in sight
+of us, walked through the prairie, where they frightened
+a herd of ten or twelve wolves, which had long amused us
+by their gambols. At half-past seven we passed a roundish
+island covered with willows, and reached then the wood on
+the western bank, in which the winter dwellings of part
+of the Mandan Indians are situated; and saw, at a distance,
+the largest village of this tribe, Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush,
+in the vicinity of which the whole prairie was covered with
+riders and pedestrians.<a name="FNanchor_318" id="FNanchor_318" href="#Footnote_318" class="fnanchor">[318]</a> As we drew nearer the huts of
+that village, Fort Clarke, lying before it, relieved by the
+back-ground of the blue prairie hills, came in sight, with
+the gay American banner waving from the flagstaff.<a name="FNanchor_319" id="FNanchor_319" href="#Footnote_319" class="fnanchor">[319]</a> On
+a tongue of land on the left bank were four white men
+on horseback; Indians, in their buffalo robes, sat in groups
+upon the bank, and the discharge of cannon and musketry
+commenced to welcome us. The Assiniboin soon lay to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>
+before the fort, against the gently sloping shore, where above
+600 Indians were waiting for us. Close to the beach, the
+chiefs and most distinguished warriors of the Mandan nation
+stood in front of the assembly of red men, among whom the
+most eminent were Charata-Numakschi (the wolf chief),
+Mato-Top� (the four bears),<a name="FNanchor_320" id="FNanchor_320" href="#Footnote_320" class="fnanchor">[320]</a> Dipauch (the broken arm),
+Berock-Itainu (the ox neck), Pehriska-Ruhpa (the two
+ravens), and some others. They were all dressed in their
+finest clothes, to do us honour. As soon as the vessel was
+moored, they came on board, and, after having given us
+their hands, sat down in the stern cabin. The pipe went
+round, and the conversation began with the Mandans, by
+the assistance of Mr. Kipp, clerk to the American Fur Company,
+and director of <span class="opage">172</span> the trading post at Fort
+Clarke;<a name="FNanchor_321" id="FNanchor_321" href="#Footnote_321" class="fnanchor">[321]</a> and with the Manitaries, by the help of the old
+interpreter, Charbonneau, who had lived thirty-seven years
+in the villages of the latter people, near this place.<a name="FNanchor_322" id="FNanchor_322" href="#Footnote_322" class="fnanchor">[322]</a> Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie caused the proposal of the Yanktonans to be
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span>
+submitted to these Indians, but the latter, after long deliberation,
+replied that they could not possibly accept these
+proposals of peace, because the Yanktonans were much too
+treacherous; that, however, no harm should now be done
+to them, and that they might depart unmolested.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the Indians in our cabin were stout, tall men,
+except Mato-Top�, who was of middle stature, and rather
+slim. I shall have occasion to say more, in the sequel, of
+this brave and distinguished chief. They had their weapons,
+such as muskets, bows, war clubs, and battle axes, in their
+hands, and also fans of eagles' wings, and wore buffalo robes,
+which, on the inner side, are painted reddish-brown, or white,
+and adorned with coloured figures. They let their hair hang
+down at length, considering it as an ornament. Sometimes
+it is divided into plaits, and daubed with a reddish clay.
+However, I refrain, at present, from describing these Indians,
+of whom I shall have occasion to speak more at length. The
+Mandans, Manitaries, and Crows, of which tribe there were
+now seventy tents about the fort, differ very little from each
+other in their appearance and dress; they are, however,
+taller than the Indians on the Missouri whom we had before
+seen, and their features more regular than those of the
+Sioux.</p>
+
+<p>We soon went on shore, and examined the numerous assemblage
+of brown Indian figures, of whom the women and
+children, in numerous groups, were sitting on the ground;
+the men, some on horseback, some on foot, were collected
+around, and making their observations on the white strangers.
+Here we saw remarkably tall and handsome men, and fine
+dresses, for they had all done their utmost to adorn themselves.
+The haughty Crows<a name="FNanchor_323" id="FNanchor_323" href="#Footnote_323" class="fnanchor">[323]</a> rode on beautiful panther
+skins, with red cloth under them, and, as they never wear
+spurs, had a whip of elk's horn in their hand. These
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span>
+mounted warriors, with their diversely painted faces, feathers
+in their long hair, bow and arrows slung across their backs,
+and with a musket or spear in their hands, the latter of
+which is merely for show, were a novel and highly interesting
+scene. This remarkable assembly gazed at the strangers
+with curiosity, and we conversed with them by signs,
+but soon proceeded to the fort, which is built on a smaller
+scale, on a plan similar to that of all the other trading posts
+or forts of the Company. It is about the size of the Sioux
+Agency, but more rudely constructed. Immediately behind
+the fort there were, in the prairies, seventy leather tents
+of the Crows, which we immediately visited.<a name="FNanchor_324" id="FNanchor_324" href="#Footnote_324" class="fnanchor">[324]</a></p>
+
+<p>The tents of the Crows are exactly like those of the Sioux,
+and are set up without any regular order. On the poles,
+instead of scalps, there were small pieces of coloured cloth,
+chiefly red, floating like streamers in the wind. We were
+struck with the number of wolf-like dogs of all colours, of
+which there were certainly from 500 to 600 running about.
+They all fell upon the strangers, and it was not without
+difficulty that we kept them off by throwing stones, in which
+<span class="opage">173</span> some old Indian women assisted us. We then proceeded
+about 300 paces in a north-west direction from the
+fort, up the Missouri, to the principal village of the Mandans,
+Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush.<a name="FNanchor_325" id="FNanchor_325" href="#Footnote_325" class="fnanchor">[325]</a> This village consisted of about
+sixty large hemispherical clay huts, and was surrounded
+with a fence of stakes, at the four corners of which conical
+mounds were thrown up, covered with a facing of wicker-work,
+and embrasures, which serve for defence, and command
+the river and the plain. We were told that these
+cones or block-houses were not erected by the Indians themselves,
+but by the Whites. Three miles further up the river,
+and on the same bank, is the second village of the Mandans,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span>
+called Ruhptare, consisting of about thirty-eight clay
+huts, which we could not then visit for want of time. In
+the immediate vicinity of the principal village, the stages,
+on which these Indians, like the Sioux, place their dead, lay
+scattered.<a name="FNanchor_326" id="FNanchor_326" href="#Footnote_326" class="fnanchor">[326]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo347b" id="illo347b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_348b.jpg" width="479" height="402" alt="Sioux burial stages" />
+<p class="caption">Sioux burial stages</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Around them were several high poles, with skins and other
+things hanging on them, as offerings to the lord of life, Omahank-Numakshi,
+or to the first man, Numank-Machana.<a name="FNanchor_327" id="FNanchor_327" href="#Footnote_327" class="fnanchor">[327]</a>
+The three villages of the Manitaries (<i>gros ventre</i>) nation,
+whose language is totally different from that of the Mandans,
+are situated about fifteen miles higher up on the same
+side of the river, and most of their inhabitants had come
+on this day to the Mandan villages.<a name="FNanchor_328" id="FNanchor_328" href="#Footnote_328" class="fnanchor">[328]</a></p>
+
+<p>The view of the prairie around Fort Clarke was at this
+time highly interesting. A great number of horses were
+grazing all round; Indians of both sexes and all ages were
+in motion; we were, every moment, stopped by them, obliged
+to shake hands, and let them examine us on all sides. This
+was sometimes very troublesome. Thus, for example, a
+young warrior took hold of my pocket compass which I wore
+suspended by a ribbon, and attempted to take it by force,
+to hang as an ornament round his neck. I refused his request,
+but the more I insisted in my refusal, the more importunate
+he became. He offered me a handsome horse
+for my compass, <span class="opage">174</span> and then all his handsome clothes,
+and arms into the bargain, and as I still refused, he became
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span>
+angry, and it was only by the assistance of old Charbonneau,
+that I escaped a disagreeable and, perhaps, violent scene.
+On returning to the steamer we there found a numerous
+company of Indians, some smoking, others wrapped in their
+blankets, and asleep on the floor.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Sandford, the sub-agent of the Mandans, Manitaries,
+and Crows, had a conference with Eripuass (the rotten belly),
+the distinguished chief of the latter. We accompanied Mr.
+Sandford to this meeting. Eripuass, a fine tall man, with a
+pleasing countenance, had much influence over his people;
+being in mourning he came to the fort in his worst dress,
+his hair cut close, and daubed with clay. Charbonneau
+acted as interpreter in the Manitari language. Mr. Sandford
+recommended to the chief continued good treatment of the
+white people who should come to his territory, hung a medal
+round his neck, and, in the name of the government, made
+him a considerable present of cloth, powder, ball, tobacco,
+&amp;c., which this haughty man received without any sign
+of gratitude; on the contrary, these people consider such
+presents as a tribute due to them, and a proof of weakness.
+The Crows, in particular, as the proudest of the Indians,
+are said to despise the Whites. They do not, however,
+kill them, but often plunder them. At nightfall we visited
+Eripuass in his tent. The whole camp of the Crows was
+now filled with horses, some with their foals, all which had
+been driven in, to prevent their being stolen. This nation,
+consisting of 400 tents, is said to possess between 9,000 and
+10,000 horses, some of which are very fine. The dogs were
+partly taken into the tents, and we were less exposed to
+their attacks than in the day time, yet still we had to fight
+our way through them. The interior of the tent itself had
+a striking effect. A small fire in the centre gave sufficient
+light; the chief sat opposite the entrance, and round him
+many fine tall men, placed according to their rank, all with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span>
+no other covering than a breech-cloth. Places were assigned
+to us on buffalo hides near the chief, who then lighted his
+Sioux pipe, which had a long flat tube, ornamented with
+bright yellow nails, made each of us take a few puffs, holding
+the pipe in his hand, and then passed it round to the
+left hand. After Charbonneau had continued the conversation
+for some time in the Manitari language, we suddenly
+rose and retired, according to the Indian customs.</p>
+
+<p>The Crows are called by the Mandans, Hahderuka, by
+the Manitaries, Haideroka; they themselves call their own
+tribe Apsaruka. The territory in which they move about
+is bounded, to the north or north-west, by the Yellow Stone
+River, and extends round Bighorn River, towards the
+sources of Chayenne River and the Rocky Mountains. These
+Indians are a wandering tribe of hunters, who neither dwell
+in fixed villages, like the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras,
+nor make any plantations except of tobacco, which,
+however, are very small. About six years ago, the Crows
+are said to have had only 1,000 warriors, at present they
+are reckoned at 1,200. They roam about with their leather
+tents, hunt the buffalo, and other wild animals, and have
+many horses and dogs, which, however, they never use for
+food. They are said to possess more <span class="opage">175</span> horses than any
+other tribe of the Missouri, and to send them in the winter
+to Wind River, to feed on a certain shrub, which soon fattens
+them. The Crow women are very skilful in various
+kinds of work, and their shirts and dresses of bighorn leather,
+embroidered and ornamented with dyed porcupine quills,
+are particularly handsome, as well as their buffalo robes,
+which are painted and embroidered in the same manner. I
+shall speak, in the sequel, of their large caps of eagles'
+feathers, and of their shields, which are ornamented with
+feathers and paintings,<a name="FNanchor_329" id="FNanchor_329" href="#Footnote_329" class="fnanchor">[329]</a> and other articles. The men make
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span>
+their weapons very well, and with much taste, especially
+their large bows, covered with the horn of the elk or bighorn,
+and often with the skin of the rattle-snake. I have represented
+a beautiful quiver of this nation, adorned with rosettes
+of porcupine quills.<a name="FNanchor_330" id="FNanchor_330" href="#Footnote_330" class="fnanchor">[330]</a> In stature and dress these Indians
+correspond, on the whole, with the Manitaries, both having
+been originally one and the same people, as the affinity of
+their languages proves. Long hair is considered as a great
+beauty, and they take great pains with it. The hair of
+one of their chiefs, called Long Hair, was ten feet long, some
+feet of which trailed on the ground when he stood upright.<a name="FNanchor_331" id="FNanchor_331" href="#Footnote_331" class="fnanchor">[331]</a>
+The enemies of the Crows are the Chayennes, the Blackfeet,
+and the Sioux; their allies are the Mandans and
+Manitaries. With the latter they bartered their good horses
+for European goods, but the American Fur Company has
+now established a separate trading post for them on the
+Yellow Stone River, which is called Fort Cass.<a name="FNanchor_332" id="FNanchor_332" href="#Footnote_332" class="fnanchor">[332]</a></p>
+
+<p>Though the Crows look down with contempt upon the
+Whites, they treat them very hospitably in their tents, yet
+their pride is singularly contrasted with a great propensity
+to stealing and begging, which makes them very troublesome.
+They are said to have many more superstitious notions than
+the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras; for instance, they
+never smoke a pipe when a pair of shoes is hung up in their
+tent; when the pipe circulates none ever takes more than
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span>
+three puffs, and then passes it in a certain manner to his
+left-hand neighbour. They are skilful horsemen, and, in
+their attacks on horseback, are said to throw themselves off
+on one side, as is done by many Asiatic tribes. They have
+many bardaches,<a name="FNanchor_333" id="FNanchor_333" href="#Footnote_333" class="fnanchor">[333]</a> or hermaphrodites, among them, and
+exceed all the other tribes in unnatural practices.</p>
+
+<p>As among all the Missouri Indians, the Crows are divided
+into different bands or unions. A certain price is paid for
+admission into these unions and their dances, of which each
+has one peculiar to itself, like the other Missouri tribes; on
+which occasion the women are given up to the will of the
+seller in the same manner, as will be more particularly mentioned
+when speaking of the other tribes. Of the female
+sex, it is said of the Crows, that they, with the women of
+the Arikkaras, are the most dissolute of all the tribes of the
+Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>This people have a superstitious fear of a white buffalo
+cow; when a Crow meets one he addresses the sun in the
+following words: "I will give her (<i>i.e.</i> the cow) to you."
+He then <span class="opage">176</span> endeavours to kill the animal, but leaves it untouched,
+and then says to the sun, "Take her; she is yours."
+They never use the skin of these white buffalo cows, as the
+Mandans do, of which I shall, by-and-by, speak at length.
+The most sacred objects in the eyes of this people are the
+sun, the moon, and tobacco, that is, the leaves of the genuine
+tobacco (<i>Nicotiana</i>); and, therefore, all their children
+wear a small portion of this herb, well wrapped up, round
+their necks, by way of amulet.</p>
+
+<p>They do not bury their dead in the ground, but, like the
+Mandans, Manitaries, Sioux, and Assiniboins, lay them on
+stages in the prairie.<a name="FNanchor_334" id="FNanchor_334" href="#Footnote_334" class="fnanchor">[334]</a> A Crow woman, who was on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span>
+point of death, was very apprehensive and uneasy in her
+mind lest she should be interred in the ground, according
+to the custom of the Whites. This was her sole concern,
+though she did not otherwise express any fear of death; as
+soon as she was made easy on this point, she died perfectly
+satisfied.
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER XIV</p>
+
+<p class="center">VOYAGE FROM FORT CLARKE TO FORT UNION, NEAR THE MOUTH OF
+THE YELLOW STONE RIVER, FROM THE 19TH TO
+THE 24TH JUNE</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Ruhptare, the second Village of the Mandans&mdash;The Villages of the
+Manitaries on the Knife River&mdash;Interview with the Manitaries&mdash;Winter
+Villages of that Nation&mdash;Remarkable Hills&mdash;Mountain
+L'Ours qui Danse&mdash;Little Missouri River&mdash;Territory of the Assiniboins&mdash;Kiasax
+and Matsokui, two Blackfeet Indians&mdash;The Grizzly
+Bear&mdash;Interview with the Assiniboins&mdash;The Bighorn&mdash;Muddy
+River, Lewis and Clarke's White Earth River&mdash;Yellow Stone River&mdash;Fort
+Union.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th June, the Assiniboin left Fort Clarke, with
+a high, cold wind, and clouded sky; the thermometer, at
+nine in the morning, being at 60��. The chiefs, and other
+Indians, had come on board, and also Kiasax, a Blackfoot
+Indian, who wished to return to his own people. The country,
+on the south bank, appeared to us to have some resemblance
+with many parts on the banks of the Rhine; but,
+on the right bank, there soon appeared those singular
+hills, resembling fortifications. At ten o'clock, we came to
+Ruhptare, the second Mandan village, on the south bank,
+which is situated in a plain a little higher than the river. All
+the inhabitants, in their buffalo dresses, were collected on
+the bank, and some had taken their station on the tops of
+their huts to have a better view: the whole prairie was covered
+with people, Indians on horseback, and horses grazing.
+In the low willow thickets on the bank, the brown, naked
+children were running about; all the men had fans of eagles'
+feathers in their hands. The village was surrounded with
+a fence of palisades; and, with its spherical clay huts, looked
+like a New Zealand Hippah. Here, too, there were high
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span>
+poles near the village, on which skins and other things were
+hung, as offerings to the lord of life, or the sun, and numerous
+stages for the dead were scattered about the prairie. As
+we proceeded, the whole population accompanied us along
+the steep bank on foot and on horseback, followed by many
+of their large wolf dogs. The <span class="opage">178</span> country was pretty open
+and flat. We saw before us the fine broad mirror of the
+river, and, at a distance on the southern bank, the red mass
+of the clay huts of the lower village of the Manitaries, which
+we reached in half an hour. The Missouri is joined by the
+Knife River, on which the three villages of the Manitaries
+are built. The largest, which is the furthest from the Missouri,
+is called El�h-S� (the village of the great willows);
+the middle one, Awatichay (the little village), where Charbonneau,
+the interpreter, lives; and the third, Awach�wi
+(le village des souliers), which is the smallest, consisting of
+only eighteen huts, situated at the mouth of Knife River.<a name="FNanchor_335" id="FNanchor_335" href="#Footnote_335" class="fnanchor">[335]</a>
+While we were examining this interesting country, and receiving
+from Charbonneau many particulars respecting these
+villages, in which he had lived for more than thirty years,
+our Indian companions were sitting or lying about the fire,
+smoking their pipes. Among them was Dipauch (the broken
+arm), a tall, stout man, with whom I frequently came in
+contact in the following winter. His long, thick hair was
+bound together in a large queue, and on his breast he wore
+a silver gorget, which he had received as a present from the
+Whites. The expression of his countenance was agreeable,
+whereas that of Berock Itain� (bull's neck), a similar colossus,
+the inseparable companion of the former, was gloomy
+and less pleasing. Both were six feet high, and Berock Itain�
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span>
+wore his hair tied together in a knot upon his head. Mato-Top�
+(the four bears), the eminent Mandan chief, whom
+I have before mentioned, and Ch�rat�-Num�kshi (the chief
+of the wolves), were also present; and I purchased from
+the former his painted buffalo dress, which had hitherto
+been his medicine (<i>i.e.</i> charm), which he highly valued as
+a <i>souvenir</i> of his brother, who had been shot by the enemy.
+Our cookery pleased them much; they were fond of coffee,
+and sugar was a great delicacy; but they cannot make maple
+sugar like the Indians in the woody country, because
+the trees are neither numerous nor strong enough to produce
+this article.</p>
+
+<p>When we turned our eyes from the dark brown inhabitants
+to the surrounding scenery, we saw, on the banks, grey
+hills, with level prairies and willow thickets next the river,
+and the country, in general, was rather flat than mountainous.
+The hills were partly depressed at the top&mdash;a feature
+which is almost peculiar to these hills. At noon the
+sun burst forth, and the thermometer was at 76�, with a high
+wind. The south bank of the river was now animated by
+a crowd of Indians, both on foot and on horseback; they
+were the Manitaries, who had flocked from their three villages
+to see the steamer and to welcome us. The appearance
+of this vessel of the Company, which comes up, once
+in two years, to the Yellow Stone River, is an event of the
+greatest importance to the Indians; they then come from
+considerable distances to see this hissing machine, which
+they look upon as one of the most wonderful medicines
+(charms) of the white men. The sight of the red-brown
+crowd collected on the river side, for even their buffalo skins
+were mostly of this colour, was, in the highest degree, striking.
+We already saw above a hundred of them, with many
+dogs, some of which drew sledges, and others, wooden boards
+<span class="opage">179</span> fastened to their backs, and the ends trailing on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span>
+ground, to which the baggage was attached with leather
+straps. The Indians hastened through the willow thicket,
+and, altogether, stood opposite to us on the steep, low, sandy
+bank, where they were so crowded that we, every moment,
+expected to see the sand give way.</p>
+
+<p>The most attractive sight which we had yet met with upon
+this voyage, now presented itself to our view. The steamboat
+lay to close to the willow thicket, and we saw, immediately
+before us, the numerous, motley, gaily painted, and variously
+ornamented crowd of the most elegant Indians on the whole
+course of the Missouri. The handsomest and most robust
+persons, of both sexes and all ages, in highly original, graceful,
+and characteristic costumes, appeared, thronged together,
+to our astonished eye; and there was, all at once, so much
+to see and to observe, that we anxiously profited by every
+moment to catch only the main features of this unique picture.
+The Manitaries are, in fact, the tallest and best formed
+Indians on the Missouri, and, in this respect, as well as in
+the elegance of their costume, the Crows alone approach
+them, whom they, perhaps, even surpass in the latter particular.
+Their faces were, in general, painted red, in which
+the North Americans agree with the Brazilians, and many
+other South Americans; their long hair hung in broad flat
+braids down their backs; on the side of each eye, they had
+hanging, from the forehead, a string of white and blue beads,
+alternating with tooth shells, and their heads were adorned
+with feathers, stuck in the hair.</p>
+
+<p>The expression of their remarkable countenances, as they
+gazed at us, was very various; in some, it was cold and disdainful;
+in others, intense curiosity; in others, again, good-nature
+and simplicity. The upper parts of their bodies were,
+in general, naked, and the fine brown skin of their arms
+adorned with broad, bright bracelets of a white metal. In
+their hands they carried their musket, bow and battle-axe;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span>
+their quivers, of otter skin, elegantly decorated, were slung
+over their backs; their leggins were trimmed with tufts of
+the hair of the enemies whom they had killed, with dyed
+horse-hair of different colours, and with a profusion of leather
+fringe, and beautifully embroidered with stripes of dyed porcupine
+quills, or glass beads, of the most brilliant colours. These
+handsome, robust men, showing their remarkably fine white
+teeth as they smiled, gave free expression to their feelings;
+and the unnatural and ugly fashions, as well as the different
+costumes of the white people, probably afforded ample matter
+for satirical observations, for which these children of
+nature have a peculiar turn. All these Indians were dressed
+in their very finest clothes, and they completely attained
+their object; for they made, at least upon us strangers, a
+very lively impression. Many of them were distinguished by
+wearing leather shirts, of exquisite workmanship, which they
+obtain by barter from the Crows. Several tall, athletic men
+were on horseback, and managed their horses, which were
+frightened by the noise of the steam-boats, with an ease
+which afforded us pleasure. Urging them with their short
+whips in the manner of the Cossacks, with the bridle fastened
+to the lower jaw, they, at length, pushed the <span class="opage">180</span> light,
+spirited animals through the willow thicket, till they reached
+the river, where these fine bold horsemen, resembling the
+Circassians, with their red-painted countenances, were regarded
+with great admiration. Many of them wore the
+large valuable necklace, made of long bears' claws, and their
+handsomely-painted buffalo robe was fastened round the
+waist by a girdle. In general they had no stirrups, but sat
+very firmly on the naked backs of the horses, and several
+rode on a saddle resembling the Hungarian saddle. Among
+the young women we observed some who were very pretty,
+the white of whose sparkling hazel eyes formed a striking contrast
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span>
+with the vermilion faces. I regret that it is impossible,
+by any description, to give the reader a distinct idea of such
+a scene, and there was not sufficient time for Mr. Bodmer
+to make a drawing of it. The following winter, however,
+afforded us an opportunity, in some measure, to supply this
+deficiency.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo361" id="illo361"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_362a.jpg" width="434" height="86" alt="A Blackfoot musical instrument" />
+<p class="caption">A Blackfoot musical instrument</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The chiefs of the Manitaries came on board for a short
+time; among them were old Addi-Hiddisch (the road maker),
+P�hriska-R�hpa (the two ravens), Lachpiz�-Sihrish (the yellow
+bear), and several others, and with them the Blackfoot
+Kiasax, in his best dress, who was to make the voyage along
+with us. He was accompanied by his Manitari wife, who
+carried a little child, wrapped in a piece of leather, fastened
+with straps. She wept much at parting from her husband,
+and the farewell scene was very interesting. While this was
+going on, an Indian, on the shore, was employed in keeping
+off the crowd with a long willow rod, which he laid about
+the women and children with a right hearty good will, when,
+by their curiosity, they hindered our <i>engag�s</i> and crew in
+loosening the vessel from the shore. The vessel, however,
+was ready to start; Mr. Kipp, Charbonneau, the interpreter,
+and the Manitari chiefs, took leave, and hastened to land,
+on which the Assiniboin proceeded rapidly up the Missouri.
+The Indians followed us, for a time, along the bank; about
+thirty of them formed an interesting group on horseback,
+two sometimes sitting on the same beast. As the willow
+thickets on the banks ceased, we had a good view of the
+prairie, where many Indian horsemen were galloping about;
+herds of horses fled from the noise of the vessel. The friends
+and relations of Kiasax and Matsokui&mdash;for we had taken
+another Blackfoot on board&mdash;followed the vessel longer
+than any of the others; they frequently called to them, and
+nodded farewell, to which Kiasax answered with a long
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span>
+wooden pipe, upon which he played a wretched piece of
+music.<a name="FNanchor_336" id="FNanchor_336" href="#Footnote_336" class="fnanchor">[336]</a> This Mandan pipe, which the Indians, on the Upper
+Missouri, frequently use, is from two and a half to three feet
+long, rather wider at the lower end, and has a hole on the
+upper side, which is alternately opened and shut with the
+finger. By way of ornament, an eagle's feather is fastened
+<span class="opage">181</span> to the end of the instrument with a string, which is
+generally a medicine or talisman of the owner. Kiasax set
+a high value on his pipe, which he held constantly in his
+hand, and would not sell on any terms. A violent storm,
+accompanied by heavy rain, compelled us to lay to, for ten
+minutes, on the left bank, where the river is bounded by
+steep high hills. At this spot Major Pilcher had formerly
+established a trading post for the Crows and Assiniboins.<a name="FNanchor_337" id="FNanchor_337" href="#Footnote_337" class="fnanchor">[337]</a>
+There were, at that time, no such posts further up the Missouri,
+but it has since been abandoned, and no trace of it
+is now to be seen. Before us was a fine extensive view of
+romantic gradations of the tongues of land, singular mountain
+tops and cones; and, on the grey chain of hills, we again
+saw the black horizontal parallel strata of the bituminous
+coal, which accompany, without interruption, the course of
+the Missouri. This black fossil has often been examined,
+with the hope that it might be employed as fuel, but it
+is unserviceable, has a very bad smell, and is of no use
+even for blacksmiths' work.<a name="FNanchor_338" id="FNanchor_338" href="#Footnote_338" class="fnanchor">[338]</a> These black strata have
+evidently undergone, in former times, the action of fire;
+and we everywhere observed, on the ridges of the hills,
+clay or clay-slate formations, either in the shape of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span>
+cones, or angular, like fortifications. Many of these pyramids
+are perfectly regular, and stand on a broad basis, furrowed
+by the water; some are square, and others regularly
+flattened. The strata of bituminous coal extend along the
+base of most of them; all these singularly-formed rocks have,
+doubtless, been elevated by the action of subterraneous fire.
+The evening sun illumined the grotesque pyramidal hills,
+and their shadows gave us a clear idea of their forms. The
+northern declivity of the mountains was partly covered with
+bushes; the southern, almost always naked and bare. Towards
+nightfall we passed the winter village of the Manitaries,<a name="FNanchor_339" id="FNanchor_339" href="#Footnote_339" class="fnanchor">[339]</a>
+situated in a forest, which, at this time, was without
+inhabitants, and then came to a tongue of land on the right
+hand, with a high, steep, rocky bank, on which Mr. Sandford
+once found, in the month of April, great numbers of
+serpents, which he estimated at several thousands. They
+appear to have consisted of two species only, which, by their
+description, were, doubtless, the <i>Col. sirtalis</i> and <i>flaviventris</i>
+of Say. All the holes and pits in the sides of the rock, and
+between the blocks of stone on the bank, are said to have
+been full of them. In one small ravine they lay coiled up
+in balls; several hundreds of them were killed, the Americans,
+in general, having an antipathy to these animals.
+Bradbury, too, mentions large heaps of serpents, under stones,
+along the Missouri, but at another season of the year. That
+serpents must abound in these parts, seems to be proved by
+the name of a small stream, which is called Snake Creek.
+Half a mile from this place, the Miry Creek flows, from a
+flat meadow;<a name="FNanchor_340" id="FNanchor_340" href="#Footnote_340" class="fnanchor">[340]</a> on the hills beyond we saw some antelopes.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, the 20th of June, we perceived,
+in a forest on the bank, fifteen Indians, and soon afterwards
+four large elks, which would have been a welcome prey to
+the hunters, had they been aware of their being so near.
+One of the strata of black coal on the generally flat hills of
+this part of the country had lately been on fire; we did not,
+however, perceive any smoke.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">182</span> After ten o'clock, having taken in fuel, we came to
+singular hills, flattened at the top, which are called L'Ours
+qui Danse, because it is said the Indians here celebrate the
+bear dance, a medicine feast, in order to obtain success in
+the chase.<a name="FNanchor_341" id="FNanchor_341" href="#Footnote_341" class="fnanchor">[341]</a> At noon there was a high cold wind while the
+thermometer was at 70�. The country was rather flat, and
+the river was bordered by green forests; on the right bank,
+in particular, the wood was beautiful, lofty, and dark. Here
+we observed many traces of beavers, such as gnawed trees
+and paths leading to the water's edge. Our hunters gradually
+returned to the bank; they had shot two Virginian
+deer, an antelope, and a prairie hen. Mr. Bodmer, who
+returned to the vessel much fatigued and heated, brought
+with him a stone<a name="FNanchor_342" id="FNanchor_342" href="#Footnote_342" class="fnanchor">[342]</a> of the shape of a battle-axe, which had
+been found in the prairie.<a name="FNanchor_343" id="FNanchor_343" href="#Footnote_343" class="fnanchor">[343]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo361b" id="illo361b"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_362b.jpg" width="227" height="148" alt="Stone battle-axe" />
+<p class="caption">Stone battle-axe</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Continuing our voyage, we saw the buffaloes hasten away,
+and moored our vessel at twilight to some trees on the north
+bank. All over the plain there were deeply trodden paths
+of the buffaloes. On the morning following, the 21st, the
+river had risen considerably, and brought down trunks of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span>
+trees, branches, &amp;c., which covered the surface, and gave
+our vessel some violent shocks: strips of wood, and desolate
+hills, without any vegetation, appeared. On the southern
+bank we came to a green spot at the mouth of the Little
+Missouri,<a name="FNanchor_344" id="FNanchor_344" href="#Footnote_344" class="fnanchor">[344]</a> which is reckoned to be 1670 miles from the
+mouth of the Great Missouri. The chain of blue hills, with
+the same singular forms as we had seen before, appeared
+on the other side of this river. In the forests roses in full
+blossom formed a thick underwood, which was traversed by
+the path of the buffaloes. Before noon we reached the territory
+of the Assiniboins, and were, at this time, at Wild Onion
+Creek.<a name="FNanchor_345" id="FNanchor_345" href="#Footnote_345" class="fnanchor">[345]</a> Kiasax (l'ours gauche&mdash;left-handed or awkward
+bear) had permitted Mr. Bodmer to take his portrait,
+without making any objection, whereas Matsokui (beautiful
+hair) was not to be persuaded to do so, affirming that he
+must then infallibly die. It turned out in the sequel that
+he was to die, and Kiasax to return, unhurt by the enemy.
+The latter had adopted the costume of the Manitaries, but
+at the same time wrapped himself in a Spanish blanket,
+striped blue, white and black, which, as well as a metal
+cross, which he wore suspended round his neck, was a proof
+of the intercourse between the Blackfoot Indians and the
+Spaniards near the Rocky Mountains. These two Indians
+appeared to be very quiet, obliging men. Thus, for instance,
+they never <span class="opage">183</span> returned from an excursion on shore, without
+bringing me some handfulls of plants, often, it is true,
+only common grass, because they had observed that we always
+brought plants home with us.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We lay to about three miles below Goose Egg Lake. A
+white wolf accompanied the steam-boat as it proceeded. We
+came to the canal which joins Goose Egg Lake to the Missouri,
+which I was unable to examine, as the steamer did
+not stop. Here the river makes a great bend, which, as
+well as that near Fort Lookout, is called by some Canadians
+Le Grand D�tour.<a name="FNanchor_346" id="FNanchor_346" href="#Footnote_346" class="fnanchor">[346]</a> Early on the following morning, the
+22nd, we saw wild animals of various kinds, such as buffaloes,
+elks, and Virginian deer. The wild geese with their
+young suffered us to approach pretty closely, because, at
+this season, they moult their long wing feathers. About
+ten o'clock we had an alarm of fire on board: the upper
+deck had been set on fire by the iron pipe of the chimney
+of the great cabin. We immediately lay to, and, by breaking
+up the deck, the danger was soon over, which, however,
+was not inconsiderable, as we had many barrels of powder
+on board. We had scarcely got over this trouble, when another
+arose; the current of the swollen river was so strong,
+that we long contended against it to no purpose, in order
+to turn a certain point of land, while, at the same time, the
+high west wind was against us, and both together threw the
+vessel back three times on the south coast. The first shock
+was so violent, that the lower deck gallery was broken to
+pieces. Our second attempt succeeded no better; part of
+the paddle-box was broken, and carried away by the current.
+We were now obliged to land forty men to tow the vessel,
+for which purpose all on board voluntarily offered their services,
+even the two Blackfeet overcame their natural laziness.
+Beyond this dangerous place, we took on board the hunters
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span>
+whom we had sent out. They were covered from head to
+foot with blood, and hung about with game, having killed
+two elks. The effect of the current and the wind upon our
+vessel continued for a long time. It was often thrown against
+the alluvial bank, so that the deck was covered with earth, and
+the track of our vessel clearly marked along the clayey sand
+bank. After four o'clock we stopped at a narrow verdant
+prairie in front of the hills, to fell wood: several pretty plants,
+among which was a juniper with the berries still green, were
+found here. The cat bird, the wren and blackbird animated
+the thickets, and we observed also the great curlew (<i>Numenius
+longirostris</i>). A very large elk horn of twelve antlers
+had been found; a number of them lie about in all the forests
+and prairies, of which no use is made. In the afternoon
+we saw in the prairie of the north bank a large grizzly bear,
+and immediately sent Ortubize and another hunter in pursuit
+of him, but to no purpose. Soon after we saw two other
+bears, one of a whitish, the other of a dark colour, and our
+hunters, when they returned, affirmed that they had wounded
+the largest. Harvey had shot an elk, and brought the best
+part of it from a great distance, and with considerable exertion,
+to the river. From this place upwards, the grey bear
+became more and more common; further down the river
+it is still rare. Brackenridge says, it is not found below the
+<span class="opage">184</span> Mandan villages, but this is not quite correct. Near
+the prairie where we saw the bears, is the mouth of White
+Earth River, called by Lewis and Clarke, Goat-pen River.<a name="FNanchor_347" id="FNanchor_347" href="#Footnote_347" class="fnanchor">[347]</a>
+Here we crossed the Missouri, and lay to for the night on
+the south coast, where some of our people landed to set
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span>
+traps for the beavers. Harvey had the good fortune to catch,
+during the night, a young beaver, which he brought on board
+alive, on the following morning, the 23rd. The iron trap
+had broken one of the legs of the little beaver, and with
+all our care we could not keep it alive. The surrounding
+country on the banks of the Missouri, which is here very
+broad, again showed the singularly formed angular hills flattened
+at the top like tables: several pretty prairies, in which
+the white artemisia and other beautiful plants grew, extended
+at the foot of the eminences, on the declivity of which the
+buffalo berry and the creeping juniper were common; henceforward
+the clay cones were partly burnt as red as bricks,
+which was a clear proof of their origin. Many of them had
+parallel horizontal stripes, projecting a little, of harder sandstone
+strata, which had resisted the influence of the elements
+more than the intermediate strata of clay and sand.</p>
+
+<p>The vessel laying to, about eleven o'clock, near a wood
+on the south bank, we suddenly perceived on the north bank
+some Indians, who immediately called to us. They were
+the first Assiniboins that we had met with; they sat upon
+the bank waiting for the boat which Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie sent
+to them. After a short pause they came on board the steamer,
+and proved to be Stass�ga (le brecheux), who was well known
+to Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, with seven of his people of the branch
+called by the French, Gens des Filles.<a name="FNanchor_348" id="FNanchor_348" href="#Footnote_348" class="fnanchor">[348]</a> The chief, a robust,
+thick-set man, rather above the middle size, wore his hair
+tied behind in a thick queue, and cut short in front; he had
+bound across the crown a slip of whitish skin; in his ears
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span>
+he had strings of blue and white glass beads; round his neck
+a collar of bears' claws; the upper part of his body was
+wrapped in a red woollen shirt; his legs were quite bare, but
+he had a pair of handsomely embroidered leggins which he
+put on when his people left the vessel. He was wrapped
+in a buffalo robe, and had in his hand a musket, and an eagle's
+wing for a fan. Another robust man had smeared his face,
+about the eyes, with white clay. The rest of these Indians
+were neither well formed nor well dressed, but dirty and
+slovenly. Their hair hung in disorder about their heads;
+some of them had made it up into three plaits; their legs
+were mostly bare; only a couple of them had leggins. One
+of them, with a Jewish physiognomy, wore a white wolf skin
+cap. Some of them were marked with two parallel
+tattooed black stripes from the neck down the breast; the
+upper parts of their bodies were naked, but they were wrapped
+in buffalo robes. Most of them had guns, and all, without
+distinction, bows and arrows, the latter in a quiver or
+bag made of skin, to which also the case for the bow is
+attached, as shown in the <a href="#illo287c">woodcut</a>.<a name="FNanchor_349" id="FNanchor_349" href="#Footnote_349" class="fnanchor">[349]</a></p>
+
+<p>As the Assiniboins are a branch of the Sioux, Ortubize
+was able to act as interpreter. They were made to sit down
+round the great cabin, and the pipe circulated; they likewise
+<span class="opage">185</span> received abundance of food, which seemed to please
+them much. They said that since they came to these parts
+in the spring, they had suffered much from want of food,
+buffaloes being scarce. They intended shortly to leave this
+part of the country, but the chief wished to go with us to
+Fort Union, which we allowed him to do. After they had
+been shown about the vessel, the steam-engine of which
+greatly excited their attention, though they suppressed any
+mark of surprise, they were landed in a lofty poplar grove
+on the north bank.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">372</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After dinner, we proceeded along the side of a prairie,
+where we heard the note of the great curlew. The valley
+of the river was bounded on both sides by very remarkable
+whitish-grey, obliquely stratified ridges, with singular
+spots of red clay, and bushes in the ravines; at their feet
+was the prairie, covered with pale green artemisia; and on
+the tongues of land, at the windings of the Missouri, there
+were fine poplar groves, with an undergrowth of roses in full
+bloom, buffalo-berry bushes, and many species of plants.
+On the mountains we again saw naked rounded cones of
+earth, as if they had been thrown up by moles, and, on the
+tops of some of them, a little turret, or cone, while their
+sides were rounded by the rain water, or marked with parallel
+perpendicular furrows.</p>
+
+<p>On our further progress up the river, we saw, for the first
+time, the animal known by the name of the bighorn, or the
+Rocky Mountain sheep, the <i>Ovis montana</i> of the zoologists.
+A ram and two sheep of this species stood on the summit
+of the highest hill, and, after looking at our steamer, slowly
+retired. These animals are not frequent hereabouts, but we
+afterwards met with them in great numbers. We here took
+on board some cord wood, which the different trading posts
+had employed their <i>engag�s</i> to get ready for the steamboat.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, in the morning, we found the banks wooded,
+and beyond the thickets were the chain of hills, in the middle
+of which were strata of the colour of red bricks. Cones
+of that colour, and sometimes detached grey figures, with
+a red base, crowned the heights. Many varied colours
+showed that these eminences must have undergone the action
+of fire. About eight o'clock we came to the mouth of Muddy
+River (the White Earth River of Lewis and Clarke), which
+issues from a thicket on the north bank.<a name="FNanchor_350" id="FNanchor_350" href="#Footnote_350" class="fnanchor">[350]</a> In this part we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">373</a></span>
+saw smoke on the bank, and, soon afterwards, some Assiniboins,
+one of whom fired three shots to attract our attention:
+others soon came up, and we took them on board. They
+were robust men, with high cheek-bones, well dressed, all in
+leather shirts, their legs mostly bare, and their hair hanging
+smooth about their heads; one of them took off the
+leather case of his bow, and wrapped it round his head like
+a turban, so that a little tuft of feathers, at one end of it,
+stood upright. Following the numerous windings of the
+Missouri, from one chain of hills to another, we reached,
+at seven o'clock in the evening, the mouth of the Yellow
+Stone, a fine river, hardly inferior in breadth to the Missouri
+at this part. It issues below the high grey chain of hills,
+and its mouth is bordered with a fine wood of tall poplars,
+with willow thickets. The two rivers unite in an obtuse
+angle; and there <span class="opage">186</span> is a sudden turn of the Missouri to
+the north-west; it is not wooded at the junction, but flows
+between prairies thirty or more miles in extent. Herds of
+buffaloes are often seen here; at this time they had left these
+parts: we saw, however, many antelopes. At the next turn
+of the river, towards the right hand, we had a fine prospect.
+Gentle eminences, with various rounded or flat tops, covered
+with bright verdure, formed the back-ground; before
+them, tall poplar groves, and willow thickets on the bank
+of the river, whose dark blue waters, splendidly illumined
+by the setting sun, flowed, with many windings, through
+the prairie. A little further on lay Fort Union, on a verdant
+plain, with the handsome American flag, gilded by the last
+rays of evening, floating in the azure sky, while a herd of
+horses grazing animated the peaceful scene.<a name="FNanchor_351" id="FNanchor_351" href="#Footnote_351" class="fnanchor">[351]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">374</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As the steamer approached, the cannon of Fort Union
+fired a salute, with a running fire of musketry, to bid us
+welcome, which was answered in a similar manner by our
+vessel. When we reached the fort, we were received by Mr.
+Hamilton, an Englishman, who, during the absence of Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, had performed the functions of director,<a name="FNanchor_352" id="FNanchor_352" href="#Footnote_352" class="fnanchor">[352]</a> as
+well as by several clerks of the Company, and a number of
+their servants (<i>engag�s</i> or <i>voyageurs</i>), of many different
+nations, Americans, Englishmen, Germans, Frenchmen,
+Russians, Spaniards, and Italians, about 100 in number,
+with many Indians, and half-breed women and children.
+It was the seventy-fifth day since our departure from St.
+Louis, when the Assiniboin cast anchor at Fort Union.</p>
+
+<p>The Yellow Stone, being one of the principal affluents of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span>
+the Missouri, receives several considerable streams, of which
+the following are the chief:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="i2">1. The Bighorn River (<i>La Grosse Corne</i>).</span><br />
+<span class="i2">2. The Little Bighorn River (<i>La Petite Grosse Corne</i>).</span><br />
+<span class="i2">3. The Tongue River (<i>La Rivi�re � la Langue</i>).</span><br />
+<span class="i2">4. The Powder River (<i>La Rivi�re � la Poudre</i>).</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The Yellow Stone is called, by the Canadians, La Roche
+Jaune. Warden calls it Keheetsa, but I do not know where
+he got this name. Lewis and Clarke say it has no name.
+The names given it by most of the Indian nations signify
+Elk River.<a name="FNanchor_353" id="FNanchor_353" href="#Footnote_353" class="fnanchor">[353]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376"></a></p>
+<p class="chapter_start">CHAPTER XV</p>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF FORT UNION AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD</p>
+
+<p class="chapter_summ">
+Description of the Fort and its Vicinity&mdash;Its Inhabitants, and the Fur
+Trade on the Upper Missouri&mdash;The Indian Branch of the Assiniboins,
+the original Possessors of this Spot.</p>
+
+<p>The erection of Fort Union was commenced in the autumn
+of 1829, by Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, and is now completed, except
+that some of the edifices which were erected in haste are
+under repair. The fort is situated on an alluvial eminence,
+on the northern bank of the Missouri, in a prairie, which
+extends about 1,500 paces to a chain of hills, on whose summit
+there are other wide-spreading plains. The river runs
+at a distance of scarcely fifty or sixty feet from the fort, in
+the direction from west to east; it is here rather broad, and
+the opposite bank is wooded. The fort itself forms a quadrangle,
+the sides of which measure about eighty paces in
+length, on the exterior. The ramparts consist of strong
+pickets, sixteen or seventeen feet high, squared, and placed
+close to each other, and surmounted by a <i>chevaux-de-frise</i>.
+On the south-west and north-east ends, there are block-houses,
+with pointed roofs, two stories high, with embrasures
+and some cannon, which, though small, are fit for service.
+In the front of the enclosure, and towards the river, is the
+well-defended principal entrance, with a large folding gate.
+Opposite the entrance, on the other side of the quadrangle,
+is the house of the commandant; it is one story high, and
+has four handsome glass windows on each side of the door.
+The roof is spacious, and contains a large, light loft. This
+house is very commodious, and, like all the buildings of the
+inner quadrangle, constructed of poplar wood, the staple
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">377</a></span>
+wood for building in this neighbourhood. In the inner quadrangle
+are the residences of the clerks, the interpreters, and
+the <i>engag�s</i>, the powder magazine, the stores, or supplies of
+goods and bartered skins, various workshops for the handicraftsmen,
+smiths, carpenters, &amp;c., stables for the horses
+and cattle, rooms for receiving and entertaining the Indians;
+and in the centre is the flag-staff, around which several half-breed
+Indian hunters had erected their leathern tents. A
+cannon was also placed here, with its mouth towards the
+principal <span class="opage">188</span> entrance.<a name="FNanchor_354" id="FNanchor_354" href="#Footnote_354" class="fnanchor">[354]</a> The fort contains about fifty
+or sixty horses, some mules, and an inconsiderable number
+of cattle, swine, goats, fowls, and domestic animals. The
+cattle are very fine, and the cows yield abundance of milk.
+The horses are driven, in the day-time, into the prairie,
+guarded and exercised by armed men, and, in the evening,
+brought back into the quadrangle of the fort, where the
+greater part of them pass the night in the open air. Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie has, however, lately had a separate place, or
+park, provided for them.</p>
+
+<p>Fort Union is one of the principal posts of the Fur Company,
+because it is the central point of the two other trading
+stations, still higher up, towards the Rocky Mountains, and
+having the superintendence of the whole of the trade in the
+interior, and in the vicinity of the mountains. One of these
+two trading stations, called Fort Cass, is 200 miles up the
+Yellow Stone River, and is confined to the trade with the
+Crow tribe; the other, Fort Piekann, or, as it is now called,
+Fort Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, is 850<a name="FNanchor_355" id="FNanchor_355" href="#Footnote_355" class="fnanchor">[355]</a> miles up the Missouri, or about a
+day's journey from the falls of this river, and carries on the
+fur trade with the three tribes of the Blackfoot Indians.
+The latter station has been established about two years, and,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">378</a></span>
+as the steamers cannot often go up to Fort Union, they despatch
+keel-boats, to supply the various trading posts with
+goods for barter with the Indians. They then pass the winter
+at these stations, and in the spring carry the furs to Fort
+Union, whence they are transported, in the course of the
+summer, to St. Louis, by the steamers.</p>
+
+<p>The Company maintains a number of agents at these different
+stations; during their stay they marry Indian women,
+but leave them, without scruple, when they are removed to
+another station, or are recalled to the United States. The
+lower class of these agents, who are called <i>engag�s</i>, or <i>voyageurs</i>,
+have to act as steersmen, rowers, hunters, traders,
+&amp;c., according to their several capabilities. They are often
+sent great distances, employed in perilous undertakings
+among the Indians, and are obliged to fight against the
+enemy, and many of them are killed every year by the
+arms with which the Whites themselves have furnished the
+Indians. Some of the agents of the Fur Company winter
+every year in the Rocky Mountains.<a name="FNanchor_356" id="FNanchor_356" href="#Footnote_356" class="fnanchor">[356]</a></p>
+
+<p>The proprietors of the American Fur Company were
+Messrs. Astor, at New York, General Pratte, Chouteau,
+Cabann�, Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, Laidlow, and Lamont; the three latter
+had a share <span class="opage">189</span> in the fur trade on the Upper Missouri
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">379</a></span>
+only. Wild beasts and other animals, whose skins are
+valuable in the fur trade, have already diminished greatly
+in number along this river, and it is said that, in another
+ten years, the fur trade will be very inconsiderable. As
+the supplies along the banks of the Missouri decreased, the
+Company gradually extended the circle of their trading
+posts, as well as enterprises, and thus increased their income.
+Above 500 of their agents are in the forts of the Upper Missouri,
+and at their various trading posts; and, besides these
+individuals, who receive considerable salaries (for it is said
+that the Company yearly expend 150,000 dollars in salaries),
+there are in these prairies, and the forests of the Rocky Mountains,
+beaver and fur trappers, who live at their own cost;
+but whose present wants, such as horses, guns, powder, ball,
+woollen cloths, articles of clothing, tobacco, &amp;c. &amp;c., are
+supplied by the Company, and the scores settled, after the
+hunting season is over, by the furs which they deliver at
+the different trading posts. Many of these, when not employed
+in hunting, live at the Company's forts. They are,
+for the most part, enterprising, robust men, capital riflemen,
+and, from their rude course of life, are able to endure the
+greatest hardships.</p>
+
+<p>During the summer, the Company send out, under the
+direction of an experienced clerk, a number of strong, well-armed,
+mounted men, who convey the necessary goods and
+supplies, on pack-horses, to the trading stations, at a distance
+from the river; they always observe and enforce the
+required conditions of the Indians, and not unfrequently
+come to blows with them. These expeditions have to support
+themselves by the chase, consequently the men must
+be good hunters, as they subsist almost exclusively on what
+they procure by their guns. Besides the forts which I have
+so often named, the Company has also small winter posts,
+called log-houses, or block-houses, among the Indians, quickly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span>
+erected, and as quickly abandoned: to these the Indians
+bring their furs, which are purchased, and sent, in the spring,
+to the trading posts. The American Fur Company has, at
+present, about twenty-three, large and small, trading posts.
+In the autumn and winter the Indian tribes generally approach
+nearer to these posts, to barter their skins; while
+in the spring and summer they devote themselves especially
+to catching beavers, for which they receive every encouragement
+from the merchants, who lend or advance them iron
+traps for the purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The animals, whose skins are objects of this trade, and
+the annual average of the income derived from skins, may
+be pretty well ascertained from the following statement:</p>
+
+<p>1. Beavers: about 25,000 skins. They are sold in packs
+of 100 lbs. weight each, put up separately, and tied together.
+There are, generally, about sixty large skins in a pack; if
+they are smaller, of course there are more skins. A large
+beaver skin weighs about two pounds&mdash;sometimes more.
+The usual price is four dollars a pound.<a name="FNanchor_357" id="FNanchor_357" href="#Footnote_357" class="fnanchor">[357]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">190</span> 2. Otters: 200 to 300 skins.</p>
+
+<p>3. Buffalo cow skins: 40,000 to 50,000. Ten buffalo hides
+go to the pack.</p>
+
+<p>4. Canadian weasel (<i>Musetela Canadensis</i>): 500 to 600.</p>
+
+<p>5. Martin (pine or beech martin): about the same
+quantity.</p>
+
+<p>6. Lynx; the northern lynx (<i>Felis Canadensis</i>): 1,000 to
+2,000.</p>
+
+<p>7. Lynx; the southern or wild cat (<i>Felis rufa</i>): ditto.</p>
+
+<p>8. Red foxes (<i>Canis fulvus</i>): 2,000.</p>
+
+<p>9. Cross foxes: 200 to 300.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span></p>
+
+<p>10. Silver foxes: twenty to thirty. Sixty dollars are often
+paid for a single skin.</p>
+
+<p>11. Minks (<i>Mustela vison</i>): 2,000.</p>
+
+<p>12. Musk-rats (<i>Ondathra</i>): from 1,000 to 100,000.<a name="FNanchor_358" id="FNanchor_358" href="#Footnote_358" class="fnanchor">[358]</a> According
+to Captain Back, half a million of these skins are
+annually imported into London, as this animal is found in
+equal abundance as far as the coasts of the Frozen Ocean.</p>
+
+<p>13. Deer (<i>Cervus Virginianus</i> and <i>macrotis</i>): from 20,000
+to 30,000.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Council Bluffs, scarcely any articles are bartered
+by the Indians&mdash;especially the Joways, Konzas, and the
+Osages&mdash;except the skins of the <i>Cervus Virginianus</i>, which
+is found in great abundance, but is said to have fallen off
+there likewise very considerably.</p>
+
+<p>The elk (<i>Cervus Canadensis</i>, or <i>major</i>), is not properly
+comprehended in the trade, as its skin is too thick and
+heavy, and is, therefore, used for home consumption. The
+buffalo skin is taken, as before observed, from the cows
+only, as the leather of the bulls is too heavy. The wolf
+skins are not at all sought by the company, that is to say,
+they do not send out any hunters to procure them; but,
+if the Indians bring any, they are bought not to create any
+dissatisfaction, and then they are sold at about a dollar
+a-piece. The Indians, however, have frequently nothing to
+offer for barter but their dresses, and painted buffalo robes.</p>
+
+<p>The support of so large an establishment as that at Fort
+Union requires frequent hunting excursions into the prairie;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span>
+and Mr. Mc&nbsp;Kenzie, therefore, maintained here several experienced
+hunters of a mixed race, who made weekly excursions
+to the distance of twenty or more miles into the
+prairie, sought the buffalo herds, and, after they had killed
+a sufficient number, returned home with their mules well
+laden. The flesh of the cows is very good, especially the
+tongues, which are smoked in great numbers, and then sent
+down to St. Louis. The colossal marrow-bones are considered
+quite a delicacy by the hunters and by the Indians.
+The consumption of <span class="opage">191</span> this animal is immense in North
+America, and is as indispensable to the Indians as the reindeer
+is to the Laplanders, and the seal to the Esquimaux.
+It is difficult to obtain an exact estimate of the consumption
+of this animal, which is yearly decreasing and driven further
+inland. In a recent year, the Fur Company sent 42,000
+of these hides down the river, which were sold, in the United
+States, at four dollars a-piece. Fort Union alone consumes
+about 600 to 800 buffaloes annually, and the other forts in
+proportion. The numerous Indian tribes subsist almost
+entirely on these animals, sell their skins after retaining a
+sufficient supply for their clothing, tents, &amp;c., and the agents
+of the Company recklessly shoot down these noble animals
+for their own pleasure, often not making the least use of
+them, except taking out the tongue. Whole herds of them
+are often drowned in the Missouri; nay, I have been assured
+that, in some rivers, 1,800 and more of their dead
+bodies were found in one place. Complete dams are formed
+of the bodies of these animals in some of the morasses of the
+rivers; from this we may form some idea of the decrease of
+the buffaloes, which are now found on the other side of the
+Rocky Mountains, where they were not originally met with,
+but whither they have been driven.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the buffalo, the hunters also shoot the elk, the
+deer, and, occasionally, the bighorn. The former especially
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">383</a></span>
+are very numerous on the Yellow Stone River. All other
+provisions, such as pork, hams, flour, sugar, coffee, wine,
+and other articles of luxury for the tables of the chief
+officers and the clerks, are sent from St. Louis by the steamer.
+The maize is procured from the neighbouring Indian
+nations. Vegetables do not thrive at Fort Union, which Mr.
+Mc&nbsp;Kenzie ascribes to the long-continued drought and high
+winds.</p>
+
+<p>The neighbourhood around Fort Union is, as I have observed,
+a wide, extended prairie, intersected, in a northerly
+direction, by a chain of rather high, round, clay-slate, and
+sand-stone hills, from the summits of which we had a wide-spreading
+view over the country on the other side of the
+Missouri, and of its junction with the Yellow Stone, of which
+Mr. Bodmer made a very faithful drawing.<a name="FNanchor_359" id="FNanchor_359" href="#Footnote_359" class="fnanchor">[359]</a> We observed
+on the highest points, and at certain intervals of this mountain
+chain, singular stone signals, set up by the Assiniboins, of
+blocks of granite, or other large stones, on the top of which
+is placed a buffalo skull,<a name="FNanchor_360" id="FNanchor_360" href="#Footnote_360" class="fnanchor">[360]</a> which we were told the Indians
+place there to attract the herds of buffaloes, and thereby to
+ensure a successful hunt. The strata of sand-stone occurring
+in the above-mentioned hills are filled, at least in part, with
+impressions of the leaves of phanerogamic plants, resembling
+the species still growing in the country.<a name="FNanchor_361" id="FNanchor_361" href="#Footnote_361" class="fnanchor">[361]</a> A whitish-grey
+and reddish-yellow sand-stone are found here. In all
+these prairies of North America, as well as in the plains of
+northern Europe, those remarkable blocks or fragments of
+red granite, are everywhere scattered, which have afforded
+the geologist subject for many hypotheses. Major Long's
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">384</a></span>
+Expedition to St. Peter's River<a name="FNanchor_362" id="FNanchor_362" href="#Footnote_362" class="fnanchor">[362]</a> mentions blocks of granite
+in the prairies of Illinois; they are found in abundance in
+the north, about St. Peter's <span class="opage">192</span> River, in the State of
+Ohio, &amp;c. Other boulders, however, of quartz, flint, slate,
+&amp;c., evidently formed by water, are found everywhere in the
+prairies. The hills were partly bare, and very few flowers
+were in blossom; the whole country was covered with short,
+dry grass, among which there were numerous round spots
+with tufts of <i>Cactus ferox</i>, which was only partly in flower.
+Another <i>cactus</i>, resembling <i>mammillaris</i>, with dark red flowers,
+yellow on the inner side, was likewise abundant. Of
+the first kind it seems that two exactly similar varieties,
+probably species, are found everywhere here; both have fine,
+large, bright yellow flowers, sometimes a greenish-yellow,
+and, on their first expanding, are often whitish, and the
+outer side of the petals, with a reddish tinge; but in one species,
+the stamin� are bright yellow, like the flower itself,
+and, in the other, of a brownish blood red, with yellow anthers.
+The true flowering time of these plants begins at
+the end of June.</p>
+
+<p>The scene of destruction, which has often been mentioned,
+namely, the whitening bones of buffaloes and stags, recurs
+everywhere in the prairie, and the great dogs of the fort
+frequently seek for such animal remains. Between the hills,
+there are, sometimes, in the ravines, little thickets of oak,
+ash, negundo maple, elm, bird-cherry, and some others, in
+which many kinds of birds, particularly the starling, blackbird,
+&amp;c., build their nests. The king-bird and the red
+thrush are likewise found. Of mammalia, besides those in
+the river, namely, the beaver, the otter, and the muskrat,
+there are, about Fort Union, in the prairie, great numbers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span>
+of the pretty little squirrel, the skin of which is marked
+with long stripes, and regular spots between them (<i>Spermophilus
+Hoodii</i>, Sab.), which have been represented by Richardson
+and Cuvier. The Anglo-Americans of these parts
+call it the ground squirrel; and the Canadians, <i>l'�cureuil
+Suisse</i>. From its figure and agility, it is a genuine squirrel,
+and, therefore, rather different from the true marmot arctomys.
+The burrows, in which these animals live, are often
+carried to a great extent underground. The entrance is not
+much larger than a mouse hole, and has no mound of earth
+thrown up, like those of the prairie dogs. Besides these,
+there are several kinds of mice, particularly <i>Mus leucopus</i>.
+The flat hills of the goffer are likewise seen; this is a kind of
+large sand rat, living underground, of which I did not
+obtain a specimen.</p>
+
+<p>Not far above and below the fort there were woods on
+the banks of the Missouri, consisting of poplars, willows,
+ash, elm, negundo maple, &amp;c., with a thick underwood of
+hazel, roses, which were now in flower, and dog-berry, rendered
+almost impassable by blackberry bushes and the burdock
+(<i>Xanthium strumarium</i>), the thorny fruit of which
+stuck to the clothes. In these thickets, where we collected
+many plants, the mosquitos were extremely troublesome. In
+such places we frequently heard the deep base note of the
+frogs; and in those places which were not damp, there were
+patches of two kinds of solidago; likewise <i>Gaura coccinea</i>
+(Pursh.), and <i>Cristaria coccinea</i>, two extremely beautiful
+plants; and, on the banks of the river, the white-flowering
+<i>Bartonia ornata</i> (Pursh.), and the <i>Helianthus petiolaris</i>
+(Nutt.), which were everywhere in flower, &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="opage">193</span> In the forest, a pretty small mouse was frequent,
+as well as the large wood rat, already mentioned. Of birds,
+there are some species of woodpeckers, the Carolina pigeon,
+numerous blackbirds (<i>Quiscalus ferrugineus</i>), thrushes, several
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span>
+smaller birds, the beautiful bluefinch, first described by
+Say, the American fly-catcher, and several others. The whip-poor-will
+is not found so high up the Missouri. The river
+does not abound in fish; it produces, however, two species
+of cat-fish, and soft shell turtles, but which are not often
+caught.</p>
+
+<p>The climate about Fort Union is very changeable. We
+had often 76� Fahrenheit, and storms of thunder and lightning
+alternating with heavy rains. Other days in the month
+of June were cold, the thermometer falling to 56�. Winds
+prevail here the greater part of the year, and therefore the
+temperature is usually dry. The weather, while we were
+there, was uncommonly rainy. Spring is generally the wettest
+season; the summer is dry; autumn the finest time of
+the year; the winter is severe, and often of long continuance.
+The snow is often three, four, or six feet deep in many
+places, and then dog sledges are used, and the Indians wear
+snow shoes. The winter of 1831-1832 had been remarkably
+mild in these parts. The Missouri had scarcely been frozen
+for three days together; but the spring, however, set in very
+late. On the 30th of May, 1832, the forests were still without
+verdure; and there was, in that month, such dreadful
+weather, that an Indian was frozen to death in the prairie:
+a snow storm overtook him and a girl, who escaped with
+one of her feet frozen. In general, however, the climate
+is said to be very healthy. There are no endemic disorders,
+and the fine water of the Missouri, which, notwithstanding
+the sand mixed with it, is light and cold, does not a little
+contribute to make the inhabitants attain an advanced
+age. There are no physicians here, and the people affirm
+they have no need of them. Persons, whom we questioned
+on the subject, said, "We don't want doctors; we have no
+diseases." In the preceding spring, however, there had
+been more sickness than usual on the Missouri, and at the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">387</a></span>
+time of our visit, the approach of the cholera was feared.
+Colds are, probably, the most frequent complaints, the
+changes in the temperature being sudden, the dwellings
+slight and ill built, and the people exposing themselves
+without any precaution.</p>
+
+<p>Fort Union is built in the territory of the Assiniboins, of
+whom a certain number generally live there. At this time
+they had left, because the herds of buffaloes were gone to
+a distant part of the country. The Assiniboins are real
+Dacotas, or Sioux, and form a branch which separated
+from the rest a considerable time ago, in consequence of a
+quarrel among them. They still call themselves by that
+name, though they seem generally to pronounce it Nacota.
+They parted from the rest of the tribe, after a battle which
+they had with each other on Devil's Lake, and removed
+further to the north. The tribe is said to consist of 28,000
+souls, of whom 7,000 are warriors. They live in 3,000 tents;
+the territory which they claim as theirs, is between the
+Missouri and the Saskatschawan, bounded by lake Winipick
+on the north, extending, on the east, to Assiniboin River,
+and, on the west, to Milk River. The English and Americans
+sometimes <span class="opage">194</span> call them Stone Indians, which, however,
+properly speaking, is the name of only one branch.</p>
+
+<p>The Assiniboins are divided into the following branches or
+bands:</p>
+
+<p>1. Itscheabin� (<i>les gens des filles</i>).</p>
+
+<p>2. Jatonabin� (<i>les gens des roches</i>). The Stone Indians
+of the English. Captain Franklin, in his first journey to
+the Frozen Ocean, speaks of these Indians, and observes
+that they are little to be depended upon.<a name="FNanchor_363" id="FNanchor_363" href="#Footnote_363" class="fnanchor">[363]</a> He says that
+they call themselves Eascab, a name with which, however,
+I have not met.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span></p>
+
+<p>3. Otopachgnato (<i>les gens du large</i>).</p>
+
+<p>4. Otaopabin� (<i>les gens des canots</i>).</p>
+
+<p>5. Tschantoga (<i>les gens des bois</i>). They live near the Fort
+des Prairies, not far from Saskatschawan River.<a name="FNanchor_364" id="FNanchor_364" href="#Footnote_364" class="fnanchor">[364]</a></p>
+
+<p>6. Wat�pachnato (<i>les gens de l'age</i>).</p>
+
+<p>7. Tanintauei (<i>les gens des osayes</i>).<a name="FNanchor_365" id="FNanchor_365" href="#Footnote_365" class="fnanchor">[365]</a></p>
+
+<p>8. Ch�bin (<i>les gens des montagnes</i>).<a name="FNanchor_366" id="FNanchor_366" href="#Footnote_366" class="fnanchor">[366]</a></p>
+
+<p>In their personal appearance the Assiniboins differ little
+from the true Sioux; those whom we saw were, perhaps, on
+the whole, not so tall and slender as the Sioux. Their faces
+are broad, with high cheeks, and broad maxillary bones.
+They frequently do not wear their hair so long as the Sioux;
+many of them have it scarcely hanging down to the shoulders;
+some, however, let it grow to a great length, and braid it
+in two or three tails; nay, some let it hang like a lion's mane
+over their faces and about their heads. Several wore round
+white leather caps, others feathers in their hair, or a narrow
+strip of skin fastened over the crown. A remarkable
+head-dress is that with two horns, of which I shall have to
+speak in the sequel. They paint their faces red, or reddish-brown,
+and, when they have killed an enemy, quite black:
+the hair in front is often daubed with clay; the upper part
+of the body is seldom naked in winter time, when they wear
+leather shirts, with a large round rosette on the breast, which
+is embroidered with dyed porcupine quills, of the most vivid
+colours; and they have often another exactly similar ornament
+on their back. The sleeves of these leather shirts are
+adorned with tufts of their enemies' hair. The outer seam
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span>
+of the leggins, as among all the other tribes, has an embroidered
+stripe of coloured porcupine quills, and trimmed in the
+same manner with human or dyed horsehair. In the summer
+time the upper part of the body is often naked, and the
+feet bare, but they are never without the large buffalo robe,
+which is often curiously painted. Their necklaces and other
+ornaments are similar to those of the other nations which
+have already been described. They, however, very frequently
+wear the collar of the bears' claws, but not the long
+strings of beads <span class="opage">195</span> and dentalium shells, which are used
+by the Manitaries. Most of the Assiniboins have guns,<a name="FNanchor_367" id="FNanchor_367" href="#Footnote_367" class="fnanchor">[367]</a>
+the stocks of which they ornament with bright yellow nails,
+and with small pieces of red cloth on the ferrels for the ramrod.
+Like all the Indians, they carry, besides, a separate
+ramrod in their hand, a large powder-horn, which they obtain
+from the Fur Company, and a leather pouch for the
+balls, which is made by themselves, and often neatly ornamented,
+or hung with rattling pieces of lead, and trimmed
+with coloured cloth. All have bows and arrows; many
+have these only, and no gun. The case for the bow and
+the quiver are of the skin of some animal, often of the
+otter, fastened to each other; and to the latter the tail of
+the animal, at full length, is appended. The bow is partly
+covered with elk horn, has a very strong string of twisted
+sinews of animals, and is wound round in different places
+with the same, to strengthen it. The bow is often adorned
+with coloured cloth, porcupine quills, and white strips of
+ermine, but, on the whole, this weapon does not differ from
+that of the Sioux. Most of them carry clubs in their hands,
+of various shapes, and the fan of eagles' or swans' wings
+is indispensable to an elegant dandy.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Assiniboins being hunters, live in movable leather
+tents, with which they roam about, and never cultivate the
+ground. Their chief subsistence they derive from the herds
+of buffaloes, which they follow in the summer, generally
+from the rivers, to a distance in the prairie; in the winter,
+to the woods on the banks of the rivers, because these herds,
+at that time, seek for shelter and food among the thickets.
+They are particularly dexterous in making what are called
+buffalo parks, when a tract is surrounded with scarecrows,
+made of stones, branches of trees, &amp;c., and the terrified
+animals are driven into a narrow gorge, in which the hunters
+lie concealed, as represented and described by Franklin, in
+his first journey to the Frozen Ocean.<a name="FNanchor_368" id="FNanchor_368" href="#Footnote_368" class="fnanchor">[368]</a> There was such
+a park ten miles from Fort Union, where I was told there
+were great numbers of the bones of those animals. On such
+occasions the Indians sometimes kill 700 or 800 buffaloes.
+Of the dried and powdered flesh, mixed with tallow, the
+women prepare the well-known pemmican, which is an important
+article of food for these people in their wanderings.
+These Indians frequently suffer hunger, when the chase or
+other circumstances are unfavourable; this is particularly
+the case of the northern nations, the Crees, the Assiniboins,
+the Chippeways, and others, as may be seen in Tanner,<a name="FNanchor_369" id="FNanchor_369" href="#Footnote_369" class="fnanchor">[369]</a>
+Captain Franklin, and other writers, when they consider
+dead dogs as a delicacy. In the north, entire families perish
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">391</a></span>
+from hunger. They eat every kind of animals, except serpents;
+horses and dogs are very frequently killed for food,
+which is the reason why they keep so many, particularly
+of the latter.</p>
+
+<p>In comparison with the other nations, the Assiniboins
+have not many horses; their bridles and saddles are like
+those of the Manitaries. The rope of buffalo hair, which
+is fastened to the <span class="opage">196</span> lower jaw as a bridle, is always very
+long, and trails on the grass when the animal is not tied up.
+Many have large parchment stirrups in the shape of shoes,
+and all carry a short whip in their hand, generally made of
+the end of an elk's horn, and gaily ornamented. Their
+dogs are of great help to the women in their heavy work;
+and they are loaded with the baggage in the same manner
+as among the Manitaries.</p>
+
+<p>In general, the Assiniboins have the customs as well as
+the superstitious notions of the Sioux; for an account of
+which, Major Long's "Expedition to St. Peter's River,"
+may be consulted. They keep on good terms with the Fur
+Company, for their own interest; they are, however, horse-stealers,
+and not to be trusted; and when one meets them
+alone in the prairie, there is great danger of being robbed.
+Smoking is a favourite enjoyment with them, but, as they
+live at a distance from the red pipe clay, the bowls of their
+pipes are generally made of a blackish stone, or black clay,
+and are different in shape from those of the Dacotas.<a name="FNanchor_370" id="FNanchor_370" href="#Footnote_370" class="fnanchor">[370]</a> The
+pipe tube is ornamented like those of the other tribes.<a name="FNanchor_371" id="FNanchor_371" href="#Footnote_371" class="fnanchor">[371]</a>
+They generally smoke the herb kinikenick, which we have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">392</a></span>
+before mentioned, or the leaves of the bear-berry (<i>Arbutus
+uva ursi</i>), mixed with genuine tobacco. To clean their pipes
+they make use of a painted stick, bound round with quills,
+dyed of various colours, and with a neat tassel at the end
+of it,<a name="FNanchor_372" id="FNanchor_372" href="#Footnote_372" class="fnanchor">[372]</a> which is generally stuck in their hair.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo361c" id="illo361c"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_362c.jpg" width="425" height="197" alt="Assiniboin pipes" />
+<p class="caption">Assiniboin pipes</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo361d" id="illo361d"></a>
+<img src="images/illo_362d.jpg" width="457" height="62" alt="Pipe for warlike expeditions" />
+<p class="caption">Pipe for warlike expeditions</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Many games are in use among these Indians; one of these
+is a round game, in which one holds in his hand some small
+stones, of which the others must guess the number, or pay
+a forfeit. This game is known also to the Blackfeet. Another
+is that in which they play with four small bones and
+four yellow nails, to which one of each sort is added; they
+are laid upon a flat <span class="opage">197</span> wooden plate, which is struck, so
+that they fly up and fall back into the plate, and you gain,
+or lose, according as they lie together on one side, and the
+stake is often very high.</p>
+
+<p>Among the amusements and festivities are their eating
+feasts, when the guests must eat everything set before them,
+if they will not give offence. If one of the guests is not able
+to eat any more, he gives his neighbour a small wooden
+stick, and the plate with food, the meaning of which is that
+he will make him a present of a horse, on the next day, if
+he will undertake to empty the plate; and the young men
+do this in order to gain reputation. The Assiniboins are
+brave in battle, and often very daring. They frequently
+steal into the villages of the Mandans and Manitaries, shoot
+the inhabitants in or near their huts, or steal their horses.</p>
+
+<p>They believe in a creator, or lord of life (Unkan-Tange),
+and also in an evil spirit (Unkan-Schidja), who torments
+people with various disorders, against which their sorcerers
+or physicians (medicine men) use the drum and the rattle
+to expel the evil spirit. Like the Crees and several other
+tribes, they believe that thunder is produced by an enormous
+bird, which some of them pretend to have seen. Some
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">393</a></span>
+ascribe lightning to the Great Spirit, and believe that he is
+angry when the storm is violent. They believe that the
+dead go to a country in the south, where the good and brave
+find women and buffaloes, while the wicked or cowardly
+are confined to an island, where they are destitute of all the
+pleasures of life. Those who, during their lives, have conducted
+themselves bravely, are not to be deposited in trees
+when they die, but their corpses are to be laid on the ground,
+it being taken for granted that, in case of need, they will
+help themselves. Of course they are generally devoured
+by the wolves, to secure them from which, however, they
+are covered with wood and stones. Other corpses are usually
+placed on trees, as among the Sioux, and sometimes on
+scaffolds. They are tied up in buffalo hides, and three or
+four are sometimes laid in one tree.</p>
+
+<p>The language of the Assiniboins is, on the whole, the
+same as that of the Sioux, altered by their long separation,
+and the influence of time and circumstances. Like them,
+they have many gutturals and nasal tones; in general, however,
+it is an harmonious language, which a German pronounces
+without difficulty.</p>
+
+<p class="center p10">
+<span class="b15">Important</span><br />
+<span class="b15">Historical Publications</span><br />
+OF<br />
+<span class="b15">The Arthur H. Clark Company</span></p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p class="center">Full descriptive circulars will be mailed
+on application</p>
+
+<div class="narrow_body">
+<p class="center b15 p6">
+AUDUBON'S WESTERN<br />
+JOURNAL: 1849-1850</p>
+<hr class="l100" />
+<p>Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to
+Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico
+and Arizona to the gold-fields of California</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span><br />
+<span class="b13"><i>JOHN W. AUDUBON</i></span></p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+
+<p class="center">With biographical memoir by his daughter<br />
+<span class="b11">MARIA R. AUDUBON</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="s09"><i>Edited by</i></span><br />
+<span class="b11">FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER</span><br />
+<span class="s09">Professor of American History, University of Kansas</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>With folded map, portrait, and original drawings</i></p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+
+<img src="images/illo_397.jpg" alt="J" width="100" height="95" class="floatl" />
+<p>OHN W. AUDUBON, son of the famous
+ornithologist, was a member of Colonel
+Webb's California Expedition which
+started from New York City for the gold-fields
+in February, 1849. The Journal
+consists of careful notes which Audubon
+made en route. It was written with a view
+to publication, accompanied by a series of sketches made
+at intervals during the journey; but owing to Audubon's
+pre-occupation with other affairs, the plan of publication
+was never realized.</p>
+
+<p>The Journal is, therefore, here published for the first
+time, and is illustrated by the author's original sketches,
+carefully reproduced. It gives a vivid first-hand picture
+of the difficulties of an overland journey to California, and
+of the excitements, dangers, and privations of life in the
+gold-fields. An additional interest attaches to this account
+from the fact that Colonel Webb deserted his party, which
+consisted of nearly a hundred men, when the expedition
+reached Roma, and the command then by unanimous
+choice of the party devolved upon Audubon. This situation,
+as modestly related by the author, displays his
+sympathetic nature, as well as his keenness and ability as
+a leader.</p>
+
+<p>Besides being a fascinating story of adventure, the Journal
+throws much light on the interesting years immediately
+following the discovery of gold in California. John W.
+Audubon was (with his brother Victor G. Audubon) the
+assistant of his father, and executed much of the artistic
+work on the famous "Quadrupeds of North America."
+His pictures of the spreading of the gold craze in the East,
+the journey through Mexico, and the social conditions
+after reaching California, show him to be a keen and
+faithful observer.</p>
+
+<p>The Editor, Professor F. H. Hodder, of the University
+of Kansas, has supplied complete annotation explaining
+matters of topography, natural science, and historical and
+personal allusions. Professor Hodder in his editorial work
+has drawn liberally upon his special knowledge of the history
+and geography of the West and Southwest. A biographical
+memoir has been written by Miss Maria R.
+Audubon. Being the daughter of the author, she has
+availed herself of a large amount of auxiliary material not
+accessible to any other biographer.</p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p>Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged
+paper, and illustrated with folded map, portrait, and plates,
+in one volume, 8vo, about 225 pages, cloth, uncut.</p>
+
+<p>Price $3.00 net.</p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="b15">The Arthur H. Clark Company</span><br />
+<span class="b12"><i>PUBLISHERS</i></span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="b12">CLEVELAND, OHIO</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="narrow_body">
+<p class="center p6">
+<span class="b15">PERSONAL NARRATIVE</span><br />
+OF<br /></p>
+<hr class="l100" />
+<p class="center b15"><i>Travels in Virginia, Maryland,<br />
+Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana,<br />
+Kentucky; and of a Residence in<br />
+the Illinois Territory: 1817-1818</i></p>
+
+<p class="center s09">BY</p>
+
+<p class="center b11">ELIAS PYM FORDHAM</p>
+
+<p class="center">With facsimiles of the author's sketches and plans</p>
+<hr class="l100" />
+<p class="center">Edited with Notes, Introduction, Index, etc., by<br />
+
+FREDERIC AUSTIN OGG, A.M.<br />
+
+<i>Author of "The Opening of the Mississippi"</i></p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+
+<p class="sidebar"><b>AN UNPUBLISHED
+MS.</b></p>
+
+<p>This hitherto unpublished MS., which is a
+real literary and historical find, was written
+in 1817-18 by a young Englishman of excellent education
+who assisted Morris Birkbeck in establishing his Illinois
+settlement. The author writes anonymously, but by a
+careful study of various allusions in the <i>Narrative</i> and
+from information furnished by the family in possession
+of the MS., has been identified as Elias Pym Fordham.
+Landing at Baltimore, he reached the West by way of
+Philadelphia, Pittsburg, and the Ohio River to Cincinnati,
+describing the people and the country as he went along.</p>
+<p class="sidebar"><b>THE MIDDLE
+WEST IN 1817</b></p>
+
+<p>Fordham was an especially well-qualified
+observer of the Middle West because of
+the numerous journeys he undertook, on land-hunting
+trips for new emigrants, in the service of Mr. Birkbeck.
+These journeys led him into Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky;
+and he never omits the opportunity to make frank and
+pointed comment on society, manners, and morals, as well
+as careful observations of the face of the country and of
+industrial conditions. The style is quite unaffected and
+has much natural charm and sprightliness; and the fact
+that he wrote anonymously made him much more free in
+his comments on contemporary society than would otherwise
+have been possible.</p>
+
+<p class="sidebar"><b>LOCAL AND
+PIONEER
+HISTORY</b></p>
+
+<p>These journeys also gave him unexampled
+opportunities for contact with the pioneers
+of Middle West, and his journal is consequently
+rich in <i>personalia</i> of early settlers, remarks on
+contemporary history and politics, state of trade, agriculture,
+prices, and information on local history not obtainable
+elsewhere. He also visited the larger cities and gives
+very interesting accounts of Pittsburg and Cincinnati, accompanied
+by original sketches and plans. In Kentucky
+he had the opportunity to study slavery; and although at
+first prejudiced against this institution he finally reached
+the conclusion that the slave states offered better chances
+of successful settlement than the free states.</p>
+
+<p class="sidebar"><b>VALUE FOR
+READERS AND
+STUDENTS</b></p>
+
+<p>The publication of Fordham's <i>Narrative
+</i>with introduction, extensive annotations,
+and index by professor Frederic A. Ogg, one
+of the best authorities on the history of the Mississippi
+Valley, will make accessible to historical students much
+new and important material, besides giving the general
+reader a book of vital and absorbing interest.</p>
+
+<hr  class="l15" />
+
+<p>Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged
+paper, and illustrated with original sketches and plans, in
+one volume, 8vo, about 180 pages, cloth, uncut.</p>
+
+<p>Price $3.00 net.</p>
+<hr class="l15" />
+<p class="center">
+<span class="b15">The Arthur H. Clark Company</span><br />
+<span class="b12"><i>PUBLISHERS</i></span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="b12">CLEVELAND, OHIO</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p6">"<i>AN AUTHORITY OF THE HIGHEST IMPORTANCE</i>"&mdash;Winsor</p>
+<hr class="l100" />
+<div id="ad_box">
+<p>THE<br />
+<span class="b12">PRESENT STATE</span><br />
+OF THE<br />
+<span class="b15">EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS</span><br />
+ON THE<br />
+<span class="b15">MISSISIPPI;</span><br />
+<span class="s07">WITH</span><br />
+<span class="smcap s09">A Geographical Description of that River</span>.<br />
+<span class="s07">ILLUSTRATED BY</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">PLANS and DRAUGHTS</span>.</p>
+<p><span class="s07">By Captain</span> PHILIP PITTMAN.</p>
+
+<p>LONDON.<br />
+<span class="s07">Printed for</span> <span class="smcap s07">J. Nourse</span><span class="s07">, Bookseller to His MAJESTY.</span><br />
+<span class="s07">MDCCLXX</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="narrow_body">
+<p class="center"><i>Edited with Introduction, Notes, and Index, by</i><br />
+<span class="b12">FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">Professor of American History, University of Kansas</span></p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>his exceedingly rare work was issued in London, in 1770, and
+has been so much in demand by historical students and collectors
+of Americana that even imperfect copies of the original are now almost
+impossible to obtain at any price. Our text is from a perfect copy of
+the original with all the folding maps and plans carefully reproduced.</p>
+
+<p class="s09">&#42;Only two copies have been offered for sale during the past five years; one copy sold
+at $95.00, and the other is now offered by a reliable firm of booksellers at $105.00.
+</p>
+
+<p class="sidebar_lg"><i>A valuable
+source work</i></p>
+
+<p>Pittman's <i>Mississippi Settlements</i> contains much valuable original material
+for the study of the French and Spanish
+Settlements of old Louisiana, West Florida, and
+the Illinois country. The author, Captain Philip
+Pittman, was a British military engineer, and
+gives an accurate general view of the Mississippi Settlements just after
+the English came into possession of the eastern half of the valley by
+the Peace of 1763. His account, written from personal observation,
+is rich in allusions to the political, social, and military readjustments
+resulting from this change of possession. "A comprehensive account
+of the Illinois country and its inhabitants, with sketches in detail of
+the several French posts and villages situated therein, as personally
+viewed by him in 1766-67.... It contains, in a compact form, much
+useful and reliable information (nowhere else to be found) concerning
+the Mississippi Valley and its people at that transition period."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wallace</span>:
+<i>Illinois and Louisiana under French Rule</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="sidebar_lg"><i>The earliest
+English account</i></p>
+
+<p>Dr. William F. Poole in Winsor's <i>Narrative and Critical History of
+America</i> says: "It is the earliest English
+account of those settlements, and, as an
+authority in early western history, is of the
+highest importance. He [Pittman] was a
+military engineer, and for five years was employed in surveying the
+Mississippi River and exploring the western country. The excellent
+plans which accompany the work, artistically engraved on copper,
+add greatly to its value."</p>
+
+<p class="sidebar_lg"><i>Annotation by
+Professor Hodder</i></p>
+
+<p>An introduction, notes, and index have been supplied by Professor
+Frank Heywood Hodder, who has made a
+special study of American historical geography.
+The value of the reprint is thus
+enhanced by annotation embodying the results
+of the latest researches in this field of American history.</p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p>The edition is limited to 500 copies, each numbered. It is handsomely
+printed in large Caslon type on Dickinson's deckle-edged
+paper. With folding maps and plans. Large 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt top.</p>
+
+<p>Price $3.00 net.</p>
+
+<hr class="l15" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="b15">The Arthur H. Clark Company</span><br />
+<span class="b12"><i>PUBLISHERS</i></span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="b12">CLEVELAND, OHIO</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="medium_body p6">
+<p class="s07">
+"We cannot thoroughly understand our own history, local or National, without some knowledge
+of these routes of trade and war."&mdash;<i>The Outlook.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+
+<p class="center"><span class="b15">The Historic Highways of America</span><br /><br />
+
+<span class="b12">by</span> <span class="smcap b12">Archer Butler Hulbert</span></p>
+
+<p>A series of monographs on the History of America as portrayed in the evolution
+of its highways of War, Commerce, and Social Expansion.</p>
+
+<p>Comprising the following volumes:</p>
+
+<table summary="Historic Highways Volumes">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">I</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Paths of the Mound-Building Indians and Great Game Animals.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">II</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Indian Thoroughfares.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">III</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Washington's Road: The First Chapter of the Old French War.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">IV</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Braddock's Road.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">V</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;The Old Glade (Forbes's) Road.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">VI</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Boone's Wilderness Road.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">VII</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Portage Paths: The Keys of the Continent.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">VIII</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Military Roads of the Mississippi Basin.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">IX</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Waterways of Westward Expansion.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">X</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;The Cumberland Road.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">XI, XII</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Pioneer Roads of America, two volumes.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">XIII, XIV</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;The Great American Canals, two volumes.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">XV</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;The Future of Road-Making in America.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">XVI</td><td class="tdl">&mdash;Index.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>Sixteen volumes, crown 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt tops. A <span class="smcap">LIMITED EDITION</span>
+only printed direct from type, and the type distributed. Each volume handsomely
+printed in large type on Dickinson's hand-made paper, and illustrated
+with maps, plates, and facsimiles.</p>
+
+<p>Published a volume each two months, beginning September, 1902.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Price</span>, volumes 1 and 2, $2.00 net each; volumes 3 to 16, $2.50 net
+each.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fifty sets printed on large paper</span>, each numbered and <i>signed by the
+author</i>. Bound in cloth, with paper label, uncut, gilt tops. Price, $5.00
+net per volume.</p>
+
+<hr class="l100" />
+<p class="s08">
+"The fruit not only of the study of original historical sources in documents found here and in
+England, but of patient and enthusiastic topographical studies, in the course of which every foot of
+these old historic highways has been traced and traversed."&mdash;<i>The Living Age.</i></p>
+
+<p class="s08">"The volumes already issued show Mr. Hulbert to be an earnest and enthusiastic student, and a
+reliable guide."&mdash;<i>Out West.</i></p>
+
+<p class="s08">"A look through these volumes shows most conclusively that a new source of history is being
+developed&mdash;a source which deals with the operation of the most effective causes influencing human
+affairs."&mdash;<i>Iowa Journal of History and Politics.</i></p>
+
+<p class="s08">"The successive volumes in the series may certainly be awaited with great interest, for they
+promise to deal with the most romantic phases of the awakening of America at the dawn of occidental
+civilization."&mdash;<i>Boston Transcript.</i></p>
+
+<p class="s08">"The publishers have done their part toward putting forth with proper dignity this important
+work. It is issued on handsome paper and is illustrated with many maps, diagrams, and old
+prints."&mdash;<i>Chicago Evening Post.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes p6">
+<p class="center b15">FOOTNOTES</p>
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Montana Historical Society <i>Contributions</i>, iii, pp. 206, 207.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Smithsonian Institution <i>Report</i>, 1885, part ii, p. 378.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Consult James's <i>Long's Expedition</i>, in our volume xiv, p. 75, note 41.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> We reprint the account of Long's expedition in our volumes xiv-xvii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> For Edwin (not Edward) James and S. H. Long see preface to our volume
+xiv, pp. 10-13, 25, 26; for Thomas Say, <i>ibid.</i>, p. 40, note 1; for Washington
+Irving as an authority on Western history, Gregg's <i>Commerce of the Prairies</i>, our
+volume xix, p. 161, note 2.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Henry Rowe Schoolcraft (1793-1864) was a well-known traveller, ethnologist,
+and historian. Born in New York, he studied at both Middlebury and Union colleges.
+His first tour to the West was in 1817-18, when he made a collection
+of minerals in Missouri and Arkansas. In 1820 he accompanied Cass's western
+expedition, and the following year acted as secretary of the Indian Commissioners
+at Chicago. In 1822 he was made Indian agent at Mackinac, where he resided
+for seventeen years, having married a descendant of a Chippewa chief. In 1837
+he was promoted to superintendency of the Northern department, whence he
+resigned (1841) to devote himself to literary work. In 1847 Congress authorized
+the publication of a work upon Indian tribes, to which Schoolcraft devoted the
+latter portion of his life. It appeared as <i>Historical and Statistical Information respecting
+the History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian Tribes of the United
+States</i> (Philadelphia, 1851-57). Schoolcraft belonged to many learned and historical
+societies, received a medal from the French Institute, and was in his day
+the chief authority on American Indians. Besides the work already cited, he published
+much, chief of which is <i>Personal Memoirs</i> (Philadelphia, 1851); <i>Summary
+Narrative of an Exploratory Expedition to the Source of the Mississippi River in
+1820, resumed and completed by the Discovery of its Origin in Itasca Lake in 1832</i>
+(Philadelphia, 1855).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Thomas Lorraine McKenney (1785-1859) was superintendent of trade with
+the Indian tribes, 1816-24. In the latter year he was made head of the bureau of
+Indian affairs in the war department, also serving frequently as treaty commissioner.
+The work to which reference is here made, is <i>Sketches of a Tour to the
+Lakes</i> (Baltimore, 1827).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Lewis Cass (1782-1866) had unusual opportunities for contact with the tribesmen.
+After taking a prominent part in the War of 1812-15, he was for eighteen
+years governor of Michigan Territory. His contributions to Indian bibliography
+were a series of articles published in the <i>North American Review</i>, xxvi-xxx
+(1828-30).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Peter Stephen Duponceau (1760-1844) was a Frenchman who came to America
+during the Revolution. Settling at Philadelphia, he became a member of the
+American Philosophical Society, and contributed to its <i>Transactions</i> several articles
+on the structure and grammar of Indian languages.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Christian Gottfried Nees von Esenbeck (1776-1858), a famous botanist and
+physician. He first engaged in the practice of medicine, but in 1818 went to Erlangen
+as professor of botany, the next year being called to Bonn, then being professor at
+Breslau (1831-52). The number of his published works is considerable.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Georg August Goldfuss (1782-1848) was born at Bayreuth, and became privatdocent
+at Erlangen, then professor of zo�logy and mineralogy at Bonn and director
+of the zo�logical museum.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Robert G�ppert (1800-1884) was a botanist and pal�ontologist. First studying
+medicine at Breslau and Berlin, he was professor of botany in the university
+at the former place (1831-39). In 1852 he was chosen director of the botanical
+gardens at Breslau, where he remained until his death.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Achille Valenciennes (1794-1864) was a French zo�logist, a friend and fellow-worker
+with Cuvier, and director of the Paris zo�logical museum.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Arend Friedrich August Wiegmann (1802-41) was for a time professor of
+zo�logy at Berlin. He founded (1835) <i>Archivs fur Naturgeschichte</i>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Sir William Jackson Hooker (1785-1865) was early devoted to the study
+of natural history, making scientific journeys to Scotland in 1806 and to Iceland
+in 1809. Later (1814), Hooker prosecuted a nine months' botanical tour on the
+continent of Europe. The following year he married and settled on his estate
+where he commenced an herbarium; from 1820 to 1841 he was regius professor of
+botany at Glasgow, being in 1836 knighted for eminent service to science. From
+1841 till his death he was director of Kew Gardens, London. Hooker's interest
+in American scientific development was marked, and he dispatched many pupils
+on botanical tours to unknown parts of the new continent.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Reprinted in our volume xxiv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> George Catlin was born in Wilkesbarre, Pennsylvania, in 1796, of a New
+England family; his mother was a woman of artistic tastes, and had lived on the
+Indian border. Early in his career, Catlin heard much of the traditions of the
+aborigines, and thus was unconsciously prepared for his later life work. In 1817
+he was sent to study law at Litchfield; returning to Pennsylvania two years later,
+he practiced in the rural districts until 1823, when he abandoned the law, and
+going to Philadelphia became an artist. For several years he was employed in
+painting miniatures and other portraits, going as far as Washington and Albany
+to execute orders. Having met at the former city a deputation of American Indians,
+Catlin was imbued with a desire to paint the portraits of these vanishing tribesmen,
+and in 1832 went west with this purpose in view. Eight years were spent
+in native lodges and fur-trade camps; then, with a wealth of material widely known
+as Catlin's Collection, he opened a museum&mdash;first in the United States (1837-39),
+then in London (1840-44). In 1845 he took his collection to Paris, where he remained
+until expelled by the Revolution of 1848. He thereupon re-opened his
+London museum, with additional material; but in 1852 became involved in debt,
+and his collection was shipped to the United States, where it remained neglected
+until 1879, when it was presented to the National Museum at Washington. Meanwhile
+Catlin visited South and Central America (1852-57), and resided thereafter
+in Europe, returning to the United States in 1871 only to die the following year at
+Jersey City. The work here referred to was <i>Letters and Notes on the Manners
+and Customs of the North American Indians</i> (New York and London, 1841),
+more commonly cited by the title of later editions, <i>Notes of Eight Years' Travels</i>.
+In an appendix are several vocabularies of the Mandan, Blackfeet, Arikara, Sioux,
+and Tuscarora Indians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> This was the American Fur Company's steamer "St. Peter's," which carried
+the annual outfit and supplies to the Missouri River forts. Larpenteur, in charge
+at Fort Union, says that the vessel arrived June 24, 1837. See Elliott Coues, <i>Forty
+Years a Fur-Trader on the Upper Missouri</i> (New York, 1898), pp. 131-135.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> For the Mandan see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume v, pp. 113, 114, note
+76. This should be Fort Clark, not Fort Leavenworth&mdash;an evident <i>lapsus calami</i>.
+Fort Clark, named for General William Clark, was an American fur-trade post built
+among the Mandan in 1831. See <i>post</i>, chapter xiii, for a detailed description.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> For Fort Union see <i>post</i>, chapter xv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Authorities differ as to the numbers perishing by the scourge of 1837.
+H. M. Chittenden, <i>History of American Fur-Trade of the Far West</i> (New York,
+1902), p. 627, thinks fifteen thousand a large estimate.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Hannibal Evans Lloyd (1771-1847), a well-known linguist and translator,
+especially interested in works of travel and science. His father had been in the
+Seven Years' War, of which he wrote a history. Early in life the son studied German,
+and published a grammar and dictionary of that language, as well as an
+<i>Englisches Lesebuch</i> (Hamburg, 1832) for the use of German students. Lloyd
+lived for several years in Hamburg, and was present during the French invasion
+in 1813, of which he afterwards wrote an account. Among his other original works
+were lives of George IV of England, and Alexander I of Russia. His translations
+were from Swedish, German, and Italian, having Englished Katzebue's
+<i>Voyages</i>, Orlich's <i>Travels in India</i>, and Maximilian's Brazilian travels. Under
+the signature "H. E. L.," Lloyd was a frequent contributor to the <i>London Literary
+Gazette</i> (1817-39). His translation of Maximilian's <i>Travels</i> is clear, simple, and
+straightforward; the German original sustains small loss either of style or meaning,
+although the translator saw fit in many cases to abbreviate the prince's prolix
+descriptions, and to eliminate not only the exceedingly valuable linguistic material,
+but much other scientific matter.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Charles Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino and Musignano (1803-1857),
+a noted ornithologist, was the eldest son of Lucien, brother of the great Napoleon.
+In 1822 he married Joseph Bonaparte's daughter, came to the United States, and
+until 1828 resided with his father-in-law, near Philadelphia, making a careful
+study of the birds of that locality. Returning to Italy, he headed the republican
+forces at Rome in the Revolution of 1848, and from 1854 until his death, three
+years later, was director of the Jardin des Plantes, at Paris. In the United States,
+Bonaparte published a supplement to Wilson's <i>Ornithology</i>, entitled <i>American
+Ornithology, or History of the Birds of the United States</i> (4 volumes, Philadelphia,
+1825-33), containing more than a hundred species which he had discovered.
+He wrote numerous articles for scientific journals both in this country and
+Europe.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> See Plate 1, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> According to the census of 1830, Boston had 61,392 souls, and with Charlestown,
+Roxbury, and Cambridge, about 80,000.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Vide Mrs. Trollope's "Domestic Manners of the Americans," page 106,
+where the authoress is probably right in many points.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> See Wyeth's <i>Oregon</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 44, note 24.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Captain Benjamin Morrell was born on Long Island (1795), entered the
+service of a privateer during the War of 1812-15, was captured by the British
+and held in prison until the declaration of peace. After his release he was made
+captain of a whaling vessel, and in 1832 published a book of travels entitled,
+<i>A Narrative of Four Voyages to the South Sea, North and South Pacific Ocean,
+Chinese Sea, Ethiopic and Southern Atlantic Ocean, Indian and Arctic Oceans,
+Comprising Critical Surveys of Coasts and Islands with Sailing Directions</i> (New
+York). A critical analysis of the book is given in <i>American Quarterly Review</i>,
+xiii, pp. 314 ff.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The cattle in this part of the country are, in general, large and handsome:
+there are oxen with immense horns, almost as in the <i>Campagna di Roma</i>, in Italy;
+and they are also large and fat. Their colour is generally brown, as in Germany,
+but for the most part, a very shining yellowish, or reddish brown, often spotted
+with white. The horns of many are turned rather forwards, and round balls are
+just on their tips, that they may not gore with them.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> See preface to Nuttall's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume xiii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> E. A. Greenwood having (1825) purchased the Columbian Museum,
+founded in Boston in 1795 by Daniel Bowen, erected a building on Court Street
+between Brattle and Cornhill, and started the New England Museum. The latter
+was purchased by Moses Kimball (1839), who seven years later constructed the
+Boston Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts building on Tremont Street, near Court,
+at a cost of a quarter of a million dollars. The stock-company theatre operated in
+connection with this institution was long regarded as the best in Boston.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> For the work of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, see Wyeth's <i>Oregon</i>, in our volume
+xxi, p. 71, note 47.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> The first recorded death by cholera, in North America, occurred on June
+8, 1832, at Quebec. The epidemic began raging in northwest India in 1827-28.
+It reached the shores of the Caspian Sea (1829), spread throughout Russia (1829-30),
+reached England (1831), and spread to the United States by way of Detroit
+the following year. Rapidly extending throughout the union, it counted its victims
+in nearly every state and territory.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> For a brief sketch of Astor, see Franch�re's <i>Narrative</i>, in our volume vi,
+p. 186, note 8.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> The Americans report of this pine that, if it is cut down, oaks and other trees
+immediately grow up in its place; and if these are cut down, the pines grow up
+again, and so continually alternating in the same manner!&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Richard Harlan (1796-1843) graduated from the medical department of the
+University of Pennsylvania (1818), practiced medicine in Philadelphia, and later
+occupied the chair of comparative anatomy in the Philadelphia Museum. He
+was a member of the Cholera Commission of 1832, and of many learned
+societies both in this country and abroad. His chief publications were: <i>Observations
+on the Genus Salamandra</i> (Philadelphia, 1824), <i>Fauna Americana</i> (1825),
+<i>American Herpitology</i> (1827), <i>Medical and Physical Researches</i> (1835), and a
+translation of Gaunal, <i>History Of Embalming</i>, with additions (1840).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Joseph Bonaparte (1768-1844) held many positions of trust under his brother
+Napoleon. He negotiated the treaty of peace between this country and France
+in 1800, and the treaty of Amiens in 1802. He was made king of Naples (1806),
+and king of Spain two years later. In an interview with his brother after the
+battle of Waterloo, arrangements were made for a meeting in New York. In
+the summer of 1815 Joseph Bonaparte, under the assumed title of Comte de
+Survilliers, came to the United States and purchased a mansion in Philadelphia,
+a country seat of about a thousand acres, near Bordentown, New Jersey, six
+miles below Trenton, and later a summer home on the edge of the Adirondack
+Mountains. His favorite residence was "Point Breeze," near Bordentown, where
+in 1820 he built what was accounted the finest mansion in the state. In 1850,
+Henry Beckett, the British consul at Philadelphia, purchased "Point Breeze,"
+and demolished its mansion. Joseph Bonaparte was in Europe from 1832 to
+1837; the next two years in this country; and in 1841 went to Florence, Italy,
+where he died. His benevolence and hospitality won for him much admiration
+in the United States. See our volumes xi, p. 159, and xii, p. 79.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> On February 4, 1830, the state legislature of New Jersey granted a charter
+for the Camden and Amboy Railroad.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> We were told that the Virginian deer were formerly very numerous here, but
+that it had been found necessary to shoot them, because, in the rutting season,
+they roamed about and did great damage to the crops.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> For Major Long's <i>Expedition</i>, see our volumes xiv-xvii. Short notes on
+the Peale family, Seymour, and Say may be found in our volume xiv, pp. 39-41,
+note 2.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Bethlehem is today a post borough and summer resort in Southampton
+County, Pennsylvania, fifty-six miles north of Philadelphia. At times during the
+Revolutionary War, it was the general hospital headquarters for the Continental
+army and about five hundred soldiers were buried there. In 1740, under the
+leadership of Whitefield, a small body of Moravians who had recently migrated
+to Georgia settled on the Forks of the Delaware. Within a few weeks, however,
+doctrinal differences influenced Whitefield to expel the Moravians from his estate.
+Through the labors of Bishop Nitschmann, the latter purchased from William
+Allen five hundred acres on the banks of the Lehigh River. Count Zinzendorf,
+visiting the hamlet at Christmas in the same year, named it Bethlehem. It has
+since remained the centre of the northern division of the Moravian church in the
+United States.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Lewis David von Schweinitz was born at Bethlehem (1780), and died there
+in 1834. Educated in Germany, he returned to the United States and won a
+large reputation as a botanist being made a member of various scientific societies
+in this country and Europe. He added fourteen hundred new species to the
+catalogue of American flora, wrote numerous books on botany, and at his death
+bequeathed to the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia his herbarium, at
+that time the largest in North America.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Before coming to Pennsylvania, John D. Anders (1771-1847) had charge of
+the Moravian church at Berlin, where his great ability attracted much attention
+among the students of the university. In 1827 he was appointed to preside over
+the northern district of the American Moravian church. This position he held
+until 1836, when he was elected to the supreme executive board of the <i>Unitas
+Fratrum</i>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> See Plate 34, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Born and educated in Prussia, John Gottlieb Herman came to the United
+States in 1817, and taught and preached in Pennsylvania until 1844, when he was
+elected to the supreme executive board of the Moravian church. During a part
+of his stay in America, he was principal of Brown's boarding school for boys.
+After a brief mission to the West Indies, he was elected president of the synod
+of the entire Moravian church, held in Herrnhut, Saxony. Returning to the
+United States in 1849, he died (1854) in the wilds of southwest Missouri while
+returning from a mission to the Cherokee Indians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The Lehigh Navigation Company, chartered August 10, 1818, was consolidated
+in 1820 with the Lehigh Coal Company, and since 1821 has been known
+as the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. Temporary navigation of the
+Lehigh River being opened by 1820, coal was floated down to the Delaware and
+thence to Philadelphia, where the scows were broken up. In 1827 the company
+began the construction of a canal which by 1829 was completed between Mauch
+Chunk and Easton. A line to White Haven was opened (1835), and to Stoddartsville
+(1838). In 1827 there was opened the Mauch Chunk (gravity) Railroad,
+the second of its kind in the United States, being in 1828 extended to Room
+Run and the Beaver Meadow region; in 1840 the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad
+was completed by the same company. In July, 1825, the Morris Canal
+and Banking Company, under a charter of the preceding year, commenced work
+on a twenty-mile canal between the Delaware and Newark, New Jersey, and completed
+it in 1831. Later the canal was extended to Jersey City, a distance of eleven
+miles.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> When found by Europeans, the Delaware Indians were living in detached
+bands along the Delaware River. A tribe of the Algonquian family, they comprised
+three powerful clans&mdash;the Turtle, Turkey, and Wolf&mdash;see Post's <i>Journals</i> in our
+volume i, p. 220, note 57. By 1753 a portion of the tribe had migrated to the Ohio,
+and by 1786 all had settled west of the Allegheny Mountains. They had aided
+Pontiac in his attack upon Fort Pitt, and allied themselves with the English during
+the Revolutionary War. Defeated, they established themselves along the banks
+of the Huron River in Ohio and in Canada. Neutral during the War of 1812-15,
+they sold their lands to the United States and occupied a reservation along White
+River, in Indiana. By subsequent treaties the Delaware were removed to Missouri,
+Kansas, and Texas; and in 1867 they were incorporated among the Cherokee,
+and stationed with the latter in Indian Territory.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Copious springs issuing from the white sand.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> The names of all these rivers, streams, and many places, are, for the most
+part, harmonious with many vowels, and are derived from the ancient Delaware
+or Lenni-lappe language. <i>Tobihanna</i> means alder brook. See Duponceau, in the
+Transactions of the American Philosophical Society, vol. iv. part iii. page 351, on
+the names from the Delaware languages still current in Pennsylvania, Maryland,
+New Jersey, and Virginia.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_42" id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> See Plate 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_43" id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> The wood of this shrub is extremely solid and hard.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_44" id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo107">107</a>, for illustration of bear-trap.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_45" id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> Wilkes-Barre, seat of Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, and eighteen miles
+southwest of Scranton, was laid out in 1769 and named jointly for John Wilkes
+and Colonel Barre, members of the British parliament. The town is near the
+famous "mammoth vein," of anthracite coal, nineteen million tons of which were
+mined in the vicinity of Wilkes-Barre in 1900. The census report for that year
+exhibited a population of 51,721.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_46" id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> The Susquehanna and Tide Water Canal Company was a consolidation
+of the Susquehanna Canal Company of Pennsylvania, and the Tide Water Canal
+Company of Maryland. It was encouraged by both states, Maryland lending it
+credit to the amount of a million dollars. It was opened in 1840. See Henry
+V. Poor, <i>History of the Railroads and Canals of the United States</i> (New York,
+1860), p. 552.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">In 1840 the total mileage of canals in Pennsylvania was twelve hundred and
+eighty; of which four hundred and thirty-two were owned by private companies;
+the total mileage of railroads in the same year was seven hundred and ninety-five.
+See Henry F. Walling and O. W. Gray, <i>New Topographical Atlas of the State
+of Pennsylvania</i> (Philadelphia, 1872), p. 30.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_47" id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> The executive council of Philadelphia presented General William Ross
+with a costly sword for his "gallant services of July 4, 1788," in rescuing Colonel
+Pickering from kidnappers. Ross was later made general of the militia, and in
+1812 elected to the state senate from the district of Northumberland and Luzerne;
+he died (1842) at the age of eighty-two.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_48" id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> Tomaqua lies in the coal district at the end of the little Schuylkill Valley, near
+Tuscarora. In this country the discovery of the coal has caused agriculture to be
+neglected, and thousands of people are said to have been ruined by unsuccessful
+speculations.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_49" id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> See Plate 5, in accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_50" id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> Josiah White, early interested in mechanics, purchased an estate on the
+Schuylkill, five miles above Philadelphia, constructed a dam across the river,
+and erected there a wire mill. Later, he sought a contract for furnishing Philadelphia
+with water by means of power generated at this dam. After long negotiations
+the city purchased the plant, belonging to White and Gillingham, his partner,
+and constructed the Fairmount water works. White, together with Erskine
+Hazard, then directed his activities to the Lehigh coal fields, and became the active
+promoter of the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. White resided at Mauch
+Chunk from 1818 to 1831, and then moved to Philadelphia where he died (1850)
+at the age of seventy. His name is inseparably connected with the canal system
+of Pennsylvania; see <i>History of the Counties of Lehigh and Carbon</i> (Philadelphia,
+1884), p. 670.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_51" id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Lehighton&mdash;a corruption of the Delaware, Lechauwekink, "where there
+are forks"&mdash;is a post borough in Carbon County, Pennsylvania, on the west bank
+of the Lehigh, twenty-five miles above Allentown. It was laid out in 1794 on the
+lands of Jacob Weiss and William Henry, and the population in 1900 is reported
+as 4,269.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_52" id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Loskiel, in his history of the Indian Missions (pp. 415 and 416), gives the following
+account of this affair. "On the 24th of November, 1755, the house of the
+Indian Missionaries in Gnadenh�tten, on the Mahony, was attacked in the evening
+by hostile Indians, and burnt. Eleven persons perished: <i>viz.</i>, nine in the flames,
+one of the brethren was shot, and another cruelly butchered, and then scalped.
+Three brethren, and one sister (the wife of one of them), and a boy, escaped by
+flight; the woman and the boy, by a fortunate leap from the burning roof. One
+of those who escaped, the Missionary Sensemann, who, at the beginning of the attack,
+had gone out of the back door to see what might be the cause of the violent
+barking of the dogs, and who of course was not able to return to those whom he
+had left in the house, had the affliction to see his wife perish in the flames."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> Gnadenh�tten was a mission established (1746) by the Moravians
+for their converts among the Delaware Indians; it was placed under the
+charge of Martin Mack.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_53" id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> Weissport is today a village of more than six hundred inhabitants, four
+miles southeast of Mauch Chunk. It was laid out by Colonel Jacob Weiss and
+his brother Francis.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_54" id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Allentown, the seat of Lehigh County, sixteen miles southwest of Easton,
+was laid out (1752) by William Allen, chief justice of Pennsylvania. In 1811
+it was incorporated with the borough of Northampton, but in 1838 reverted to
+its old name. Allentown is today one of the chief seats of furniture-making in
+the United States, and second only to Paterson in production of American silk.
+Its population in 1900 was 35,416.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_55" id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> This plant, called by the Americans the poke plant, is used, in many parts,
+as a vegetable for the table. When the plant is young, and not above six inches
+high, of a whitish, and not dark green colour, the leaves are tender, and very delicate.
+It is thought that it might be very advisable to cultivate it in the kitchen
+gardens.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_56" id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> Huntingdon, seat of the county of the same name, was settled about 1760
+on the site of a famous Indian council ground, and named for Selena, Countess
+of Huntingdon. It was incorporated in 1760, and had a population at the last
+federal census of 6,053.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_57" id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> New Alexandria is a small village in Westmoreland County, on Loyalhanna
+Creek, thirty-three miles east of Pittsburg.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">New Salem (or Salem), in the same county, twenty-five miles east of Pittsburg,
+was laid out in 1833.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Many early western travellers give descriptions and historical accounts of
+Pittsburg. See particularly Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, pp. 242-255.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_58" id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> James R. Lambdin was born in Pittsburg (1807), studied under Thomas
+Sully, of Philadelphia (1823-25), and began painting in his native town. Later he
+made professional visits to the chief towns between Pittsburg and Mobile, and started
+a museum of art and antiquities at Louisville, Kentucky, where he lived several years.
+From 1837 until his death in 1889 he resided principally in Philadelphia, but
+painted much at Washington, executing portraits of all the presidents from John Q.
+Adams to James A. Garfield. Lambdin was appointed by President Buchanan
+(May 15, 1859) as one of the three members of the Art Commission provided for
+by acts of Congress on June 12, 1858, and March 3, 1859, for the purpose of
+a survey of the public buildings at Washington and submitting a report on the
+system of decorations hitherto used, and recommending plans to secure a harmonious
+effect in the future. For this report, dated February 22, 1860, see
+<i>Executive Documents, 36 Cong., 1 sess., No. 43</i>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_59" id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> See Plate 6 in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_60" id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> Maximilian is here referring to Duke Bernard, <i>Travels through North America
+during the Years 1825-26</i> (2 vols., Philadelphia, 1828). For a short statement
+of George Rapp and his enterprises, see Hulme's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume x, pp. 50
+and 54, notes 22 and 25 respectively.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Economy, an Ohio River town, in Beaver County, Pennsylvania, seventeen
+miles northwest of Pittsburg, was settled by the Harmonites in 1825. The property
+of the community is now quite valuable, but in 1902 the membership was only
+eight. Celibacy has been encouraged and new members have not been solicited,
+and the property is now in the hands of a single trustee.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_61" id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> For the early history of Wheeling, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume
+iii, p. 33, note 15.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_62" id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> For notes on Canonsburg, Washington, and Alexandria, see Harris's <i>Journal</i>,
+in our volume iii, pp. 347, 348, notes 31, 32, 33 respectively. The Associate Presbyterian
+Theological Seminary was organized at Canonsburg in 1794, with Rev.
+John Anderson as the first instructor.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_63" id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> For Elizabeth Town, New Town, and Sistersville, see, respectively, Cuming's
+<i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 34, note 7; A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii,
+p. 49, note 66; and Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 223, note 25.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Henry S. Tanner (1786-1858), a resident of Philadelphia, engraved and published
+atlases and separate maps. Worthy of mention are the <i>New American
+Atlas</i> (Philadelphia, 1817-23), <i>The World</i> (1825), <i>Map of the United States of
+Mexico</i> (1825), <i>Map of the United States of America</i> (1829). Tanner was a member
+of the geographical societies of London and Paris, made numerous contributions
+to periodicals, and published the <i>American Traveller</i> (Philadelphia, 1836),
+<i>Central Traveller</i> (New York, 1840), <i>New Picture of Philadelphia</i> (Philadelphia,
+1840), <i>Description of the Canals and Railroads of the United States</i> (New York,
+1840), and <i>View of the Valley of the Mississippi</i> (Philadelphia, 1832).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_64" id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> Maximilian is probably here referring to the hamlet Newport, in Washington
+County, instead of to Newark. Newport was not laid out as a village until 1839.
+For an account of Marietta see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii, p. 34,
+note 16.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_65" id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> Benjamin Smith Barton (1766-1815) studied in Philadelphia, Edinburgh,
+London, and G�ttingen, practiced medicine in Philadelphia, and for a number of
+years taught in the college of that city and its successor, the University of Pennsylvania.
+He made numerous contributions to scientific journals, and published
+<i>Observations on Some Parts of Natural History</i> (London, 1787), <i>New Views on
+the Origin of the Tribes of America</i> (1797), etc.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Caleb Atwater (1778-1867) went to Ohio in 1811, served several years in the
+legislature of that state, and was appointed Indian commissioner under Jackson.
+He published <i>A Tour to Prairie du Chien</i> (1831), <i>Western Antiquities</i> (1833),
+<i>Writings of Caleb Atwater</i> (1833), and <i>History of Ohio</i> (1838).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Christian Schultz, <i>Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of New York,
+Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee and through the territories of
+Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New Orleans: performed in the years 1807-1808</i>
+(New York, 1810).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">David Baillie Warden (1778-1845) was for many years United States consul
+at Paris. He was much interested in antiquities and published <i>Recherches sur
+les Antiquit�s de l'Am�rique Septentrionale</i> (Paris, 1827); also earlier <i>A Statistical,
+Political, and Historical Account of the United States of North America</i> (Edinburgh,
+1819).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_66" id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Audubon (see "Ornithological Biography," vol. i. p. 156) mentions an instance
+of a cow that swam in to the window of a house which was seven feet above the
+ground, and sixty feet above low-watermark.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_67" id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> For Parkersburg, see Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 224,
+note 27. The other settlement should be Belpr�, for which see our volume iv,
+p. 127, note 87.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_68" id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> For points of historic interest connected with the Little Hockhocking (Hocking)
+River, see Croghan's <i>Journals</i>, in our volume i, p. 131, note 99.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Shade Creek rises in Atkins County, flows southeast through Meigs County,
+and enters the Ohio about twenty-one miles below Blennerhassett's Island.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_69" id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> For Point Pleasant and Gallipolis, see respectively Croghan's <i>Journals</i>, in
+our volume i, p. 132, note 101, and F. A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, volume iii, p. 185,
+note 34.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_70" id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> Racoon Creek, ninety miles in length, drains Vinton County, Ohio, flows
+through Gallia County, and joins the Ohio River seven miles below Gallipolis.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Guyandotte River, see Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 229,
+note 33.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_71" id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Symmes Creek, which enters the Ohio five miles above Burlington, probably
+derived its name, like the village Symmes, from John Cleves Symmes, appointed
+judge in the Northwest Territory in 1787. In 1788 Judge Symmes received a
+federal grant of a million acres of public land, upon which was founded Cincinnati
+and North Bend.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Burlington, in the southwestern extremity of Ohio, was once the seat of Lawrence
+County.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Catlettsburg, here incorrectly written Cadetsburg, is the seat of Boyd County,
+Kentucky. See Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 155, note 103.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The Sandy, or the Big Sandy, River (not creek), formed by the junction of
+Tug and Levisa forks, flows north to the Ohio River, separating the states of Kentucky
+and West Virginia. It drains an area of four thousand square miles, and
+is navigable for small steamboats to a distance of a hundred miles.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Hanging Rock, named for a high sandstone escarpment, is on the right bank
+of the river, three miles below Ironton.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Greenupsburg and Governor Greenup, see Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in
+our volume x, p. 229, note 34.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Concerning the historic importance of the Scioto River, see Croghan's <i>Journals</i>,
+in our volume i, p. 134, note 102; and for the Ohio Canal, see Flint's <i>Letters</i> in
+our volume ix, p. 96, note 44.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Rockville, Adams County, Ohio, was laid out in 1830.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_72" id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Adamsville, Muskingum County, Ohio, was laid out in 1832 by M. Adams.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For the early history of Manchester, Ohio, and its founder, General Nathaniel
+Massie, see Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 160, note 107.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Aberdeen, Brown County, Ohio, was laid out by Nathan Ellis in 1816.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Ripley, see Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 233, note 41; for
+Vanceburg, see Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 165, note 111; for Maysville,
+see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii, p. 35, note 23; and for Augusta, see
+Flint's <i>Letters</i>, in our volume ix, p. 148, note 69.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Neville, in Clermont County, Ohio, was settled by John Gregg in 1795.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The "Helen Mar" steamboat (88 tons) was built at Cincinnati in 1832; it was
+reported as being out of commission in 1837.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Moscow, Clermont County, Ohio, was laid out by Owen Davis (1816); and
+Point Pleasant, five miles farther down the river, in the same county, was platted
+in the same year by Joseph Jackson for its proprietor, Henry Ludlow.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For New Richmond, see Flint's <i>Letters</i>, in our volume ix, p. 148, note 70.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_73" id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> For the founding of Cincinnati, see Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 256,
+note 166.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_74" id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> For Big Bone Lick and the remains of the mammoth found there, see Croghan's
+<i>Journals</i>, in our volume i, p. 135, note 104.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_75" id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> In Ferussac's "Bulletin des Sciences," 1831, there is a notice of a colossal
+animal, sixty feet long, lately discovered there, and the whole story was invented,
+merely to attract visitors. In Silliman's American Journal (Vol. xx. No. 2, July,
+1831, page 370), there is a correct description of these bones, in refutation of the
+preceding statement.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_76" id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> On the early history of Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see Croghan's
+<i>Journals</i> in our volume i, p. 136, note 106.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_77" id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> Portland was laid out in 1814 for the proprietor, William Lytle; it was incorporated
+in 1834, and annexed to Louisville in 1837.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The "Water Witch" (120 tons) was built at Nashville in 1831, being sunk near
+Plaquemine, Louisiana, two years later.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_78" id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> For New Albany, see Hulme's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume x, p. 44, note 15.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_79" id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Brandenburg is the seat of Meade County, Kentucky, forty miles below
+Louisville. It was incorporated in 1825, and named after Colonel Solomon Brandenburg,
+the proprietor.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Leavenworth, named for Messrs. S. M. and J. Leavenworth, is the seat of
+justice in Crawford County, Indiana. It was located in 1818.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Rome, Perry County, Indiana, was laid out (May, 1818) by one Cummings,
+and named Washington; in the fall of the same year the name was changed to
+Franklin; when it was made the county seat in 1819, it was given its present name.
+See <i>History of Warrick, Spencer, and Perry Counties, Indiana</i> (Chicago, 1885).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Stevensport was incorporated in 1825. Cloverport, originally Jossville, was
+established in 1828.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_80" id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> For Rockport, see Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 251, note 58.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Owensboro (incorrectly written Owenburg) is the seat of justice for Daviess
+County, Kentucky. Originally called Rossborough, the name was later changed
+to that now used, being given in honor of Colonel Abraham Owen, killed in the
+battle of Tippecanoe. The town was incorporated February 3, 1817.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_81" id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> An account of the founding of Evansville is given in Hulme's <i>Journal</i>, in
+our volume x, p. 45, note 16.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Henderson, see Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 267, note 175.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_82" id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> For Mount Vernon, see Flint's <i>Letters</i>, in our volume ix, p. 306, note 154.
+A short account of New Harmony is given in Hulme's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume x,
+p. 50, note 22.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_83" id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> Robert Owen (1771-1858) was a prominent English socialist and propagandist.
+Rising from the ranks of workingmen, by shrewd business capacity he
+acquired a fortune, which he devoted to the improvement of the conditions of
+working people, and to the spread of principles of co-operation and education.
+His factory and schools at New Lanark, Scotland, became famous, and were visited
+by eminent reformers. He was also instrumental in securing the first Factory
+Act, protecting the rights of children. In 1825 he purchased New Harmony,
+Indiana, for the purpose of establishing a co-operative community. Owen's connection
+with this experiment was dissolved about 1828, although his sons remained
+on the property many years. The latter years of his life were entirely devoted to
+theoretical discussion, erratic journalism, and socialistic experimentation. He
+is considered the founder of the co-operative movement in England.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">William Maclure (1763-1840), a wealthy merchant, geologist, and philanthropist,
+made an unsuccessful attempt (1819) to found an agricultural school at Alicaut,
+Spain, for the benefit of the poorer classes. In 1824 he went with Robert Owen
+to New Harmony and took charge of the educational department. The following
+year, however, together with a hundred and fifty followers, he withdrew to found
+Macluria. Later, they purchased the New Harmony establishment, and for a
+short time conducted a school of industry destined to early failure. In 1827,
+because of failing health, he went to Mexico, where he died (1840).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_84" id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> Jean Baptiste Audebert (1759-1800), an eminent French painter, engraver,
+and naturalist, published <i>A Natural History of Apes, Lemurs, and Galeopitheci</i>,
+with numerous plates (1800), and <i>A History of Humming Birds, Fly Catchers,
+Jacamars and Promerap</i> (1 vol., 1802). Audebert at his death left unfinished several
+works on birds, subsequently edited by Vieillot and Destray.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_85" id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> See Plate 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_86" id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> See Plate 25, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_87" id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> <i>Cervus major</i>, or <i>Canadensis</i>. I have retained the American name of elk
+for this animal, but it must not be confounded with the elendthier (<i>Cervus alces</i>),
+which is sometimes called elk, in Prussia. The name wapiti, given to it by the
+English, which is derived from one of the Indian languages, ought never to be used,
+because it is scarcely known to anybody, even in America.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_88" id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> Edward P�ppig (1798-1868) was educated as a naturalist at Leipzig. He
+travelled in Cuba and the United States (1822-24), and subsequently went to South
+America, returning to Germany in 1832. In 1845 he was elected professor of
+zo�logy at the University of Leipzig and died in 1868. He wrote <i>Reise in Chila,
+Peru und auf dem Amazonenstromer</i> (Leipzig, 1835-36), and <i>Landschaftliche Ansichten
+und erl�uterude Darstellungen aus dem Gebiete der Erdbunde</i> (Leipzig, 1838).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Mrs. Trollope, see Wyeth's <i>Oregon</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 44, note 24;
+for Doctor Drake, see Flint's <i>Letters</i>, in our volume ix, p. 121, note 61.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_89" id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> For a brief sketch of Lesueur, see our volume xvi, p. 138, note 60.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Johann Friedrich Blumenbach (1752-1840) was a distinguished professor in
+the University of G�ttingen. As a recognition of his ability, he was in 1812 elected
+secretary of the Royal Society of Sciences.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_90" id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> Mr. Lesueur sketched these from memory, having parted with the originals.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> See opposite page for illustration of Indian pipes.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_91" id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> See the "Disseminator" for 1831. Say writes&mdash;"Some arrow-heads and
+knives made of flint were found in the same tumulus, which are perfectly like those
+often found on the surface. These arrow-heads are generally known, but the instrument
+which probably served as a knife, deserves more particular consideration.
+It is from an inch and a half to two inches and a quarter long, from three-tenths to
+seven-tenths broad, and has two edges; in shape it resembles the obsidian knives
+of the ancient Aztecks, or, perhaps, of the Tultecks, of which we found a great
+many near the Mexican city of Chalco, and of which there are engravings in one
+of the last numbers of 'Silliman's Journal.' We have compared several specimens
+of flint and obsidian knives, and found them as perfectly alike as if they had been
+made by the same artist, and as the difference of the material allows. If we cannot
+decide how far this fact may serve to confirm the hieroglyphic accounts of the
+emigration of the Aztecks and Tultecks from north to south, it seems, however, to
+strengthen the conjecture that the remote ancestors of the present Mexicans erected
+the tumuli and walls which are spread in such numbers over this country, and of
+the origin of which the present race of red men have no tradition." These obsidian
+knives are likewise represented in one of the early volumes of the French Academy,
+but Warden does not mention them in his "Antiquit�s Mexicaines." He puts the
+question, whether the people of the Ohio Valley may not have been a colony of the
+ancient inhabitants of Palenque? The old tumuli of Harmony appear, at least,
+to belong to a kindred race. On this obscure but highly interesting subject, see
+Alex. V. Humboldt, "Voy. au Nouv. Cont." t. iii. p. 155, &amp;c.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_92" id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> This must have been a wandering band either of Sauk and Foxes (the latter
+of whom often were entitled "Musquake") or of Mascoutin. The Indian title
+to this region had been extinguished in 1804; see note 92, <i>post</i>. Possibly they were
+Potawatomi, several of whose chiefs bore names resembling these.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">An account of the battle of Tippecanoe is given in Evans's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume
+viii, p. 286, note 131.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_93" id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> Some of the southern tribes of the North American Indians still use such
+wooden pipes. I have seen such belonging to the Cherokees, which were in the
+shape of a bear. The opening for the tobacco was on the back, and the tube fixed
+near the tail.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_94" id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> For the Kickapoo and Mascoutin (Masquiton) Indians, see Croghan's <i>Journals</i>,
+in our volume i, p. 139, note 111; for the Potawatomi (Potanons), <i>ibid.</i>, p. 115,
+note 84. The Piankeshaw and Miami are respectively noted in our volume i,
+p. 142, note 115; p. 27, note 24. The Wyandot (Viandots) were the Huron; see
+our volume i, p. 29, note 26.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Two treaties&mdash;the first with the Delawares, signed August 18, 1804; the second
+with the Piankeshaw, August 27, 1804&mdash;were concluded by William Henry
+Harrison at Vincennes. By these treaties all the southwestern portion of Indiana
+below the Vincennes tract already ceded, became the property of the United States.
+See W. H. Smith, <i>History of Indiana</i> (Indianapolis, 1897), pp. 230-233.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_95" id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> Bloomington, the seat of Monroe County, Indiana, was laid out by Benjamin
+Park, July 12, 1818.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">By the two acts of March 26, 1804, and April 16, 1816, Congress granted two
+townships of land, subsequently located in Gibson and Monroe counties "for the
+use of a seminary of learning." The territorial legislature on November 9, 1806,
+established in the borough of Vincennes "an university to be known by the name
+and style of the Vincennes University." The attempt proved a failure, and the
+land was transferred to the Indiana Seminary created on January 20, 1820. The
+latter was, on January 24, 1828, raised to the dignity of Indiana College, and on
+February 15, 1838, to Indiana University.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_96" id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> The other taxes were at this time the following:&mdash;1. Poll-tax, thirty-seven
+and a half cents per head, per annum. 2. Land-tax, according to the quality of
+the land; in Illinois, one and a half cents per acre on land of the best quality.
+3. Watch-tax, twenty-five cents on a silver watch, and half a dollar on a gold
+watch. 4. Horse-tax, thirty-five cents on every horse above three years old.
+Twenty-five cents on every pair of draught oxen. This was the case in Indiana;
+in Illinois, a tax of half a dollar, on the value of 100 dollars for every head of cattle
+above three years old. All grocers who sell sugar, coffee, and spirituous liquors,
+pay a tax in Indiana, as well as publicans. The landlord of the inn at which we
+lodged, paid a tax of ten dollars per annum. All these taxes are levied by the
+Government of the State, and are liable to be changed.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_97" id="Footnote_97" href="#FNanchor_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo175b">175</a>, for illustration of neck-yoke and plow.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_98" id="Footnote_98" href="#FNanchor_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> In the splendid work, "Genus Pinus," by my lamented friend, A. B. Lambert,
+Esq., Vice-President of the Linnean Society, lately deceased, there is a plate and
+an interesting account of this tree. Mr. Lambert states that "it was introduced
+into England by Lord Bagot, from seeds received from the celebrated naturalist,
+Mr. Correa de Serra, then ambassador of Portugal to the United States. Lord
+Bagot has two fine trees in his conservatory, and was so good as to give me plants
+of it, which are now growing in my conservatory at Boyton."&mdash;<span class="smcap">H. Evans Lloyd.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_99" id="Footnote_99" href="#FNanchor_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Fox River, a bayou of the Big Wabash River, in the eastern portion of Philip
+Township, White County, Illinois, cuts off about six miles of territory, known as
+Fox Island.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_100" id="Footnote_100" href="#FNanchor_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> See Bodmer's view of this junction, Plate 38, in the accompanying atlas,
+our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_101" id="Footnote_101" href="#FNanchor_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> See Evans's <i>Pedestrious Tour</i>, in our volume viii, p. 192, note 45.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_102" id="Footnote_102" href="#FNanchor_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> This <i>Nymph�a</i> had, in January, thrown out short pedunculi, near to its
+tuberculous root, at some depth below the water, from which thick, round, yellow
+flower-buds had sprouted. The arrow-shaped leaves were green, but, at this time,
+at a great depth under water.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_103" id="Footnote_103" href="#FNanchor_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> The parroquet (or parrakeet), a diminution of the Spanish <i>perico</i>, meaning
+parrot, is the term applied to many small varieties of parrots, especially to the
+long-tailed East Indian and Australian species of the genus <i>Pal�orius</i>. At the
+opening of the nineteenth century they were quite numerous in the southern portion
+of the United States; but they have now disappeared, save in the wilder portions
+of Indian Territory and Florida. See Cuming's <i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 161,
+note 108.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_104" id="Footnote_104" href="#FNanchor_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> See Plate 38, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_105" id="Footnote_105" href="#FNanchor_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> The "Napoleon" (100 tons) was built at Pittsburg in 1831, and the "Conveyance"
+(90 tons) at Cincinnati in the same year.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_106" id="Footnote_106" href="#FNanchor_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> For the Shawnee Indians and Shawneetown, see Croghan's <i>Journals</i>, in our
+volume i, p. 138, note 108.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The reference is to Dr. Jedidiah Morse (1761-1826), <i>Report to Secretary of War
+on Indian Affairs</i> (New Haven, 1822), the result of a tour among the Western
+tribes in 1820.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_107" id="Footnote_107" href="#FNanchor_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> Saline Creek (or River), formed by the union of the North and South Forks
+in Gallatin County, Illinois, flows southeast and enters the Ohio River about ten
+miles below Shawneetown. For a short statement on salt deposits, see James's
+<i>Long's Expedition</i>, in our volume xiv, p. 58, note 11.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_108" id="Footnote_108" href="#FNanchor_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> The "Paragon" (90 tons) was constructed at Cincinnati in 1829.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_109" id="Footnote_109" href="#FNanchor_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> Battery Rock is twelve miles below Shawneetown.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_110" id="Footnote_110" href="#FNanchor_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> See Plate 7, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. See also Cuming's
+<i>Tour</i>, in our volume iv, p. 273, note 180.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_111" id="Footnote_111" href="#FNanchor_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> For Golconda consult Woods's <i>English Prairie</i>, in our volume x, p. 327,
+note 77. Sister's Island, a narrow strip a mile in length, lies twenty miles below
+Elizabethtown, Illinois. Smithland is the county seat of Livingston County,
+Kentucky, immediately below the mouth of the Cumberland.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_112" id="Footnote_112" href="#FNanchor_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> Paducah, the seat of McCracken County, Kentucky, and forty-eight miles
+above Cairo, was laid out in 1827 and named from a well-known Indian chief. It
+is a large shipping place and in 1900 had a population of 12,797. It is the seat of
+Paducah University.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The book here referred to is Samuel Cumings' <i>Western Pilot, containing Charts
+of the Ohio River and of the Mississippi from the Mouth of the Missouri to the Gulf
+of Mexico, accompanied with Directions for navigating the same, and a Gazetteer
+or Description of Towns on their Banks, Tributary Streams, etc., also a variety of
+Matter interesting to Travelers and all concerned in the Navigation of these Rivers</i>
+(Cincinnati, 1828, 1829, 1834).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For a brief sketch of Fort Massac, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii,
+p. 73, note 139.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_113" id="Footnote_113" href="#FNanchor_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> Several fruitless attempts were made to establish a city at the confluence
+of the two rivers. Trinity, long time a rival of Cairo, was first settled in 1817 at
+Cache River. Shortly afterwards Shadrach Bond, John Comyges, and others
+entered a land claim for eighteen hundred acres between the Ohio and Mississippi
+rivers and incorporated it as the City and Bank of Cairo. At Comyges's death,
+however, the claim was allowed to lapse. In the same year William Bird occupied
+three hundred and sixty acres at the extreme point of the peninsula, and named
+his proposed city Bird's Point. A few houses were built; but during the War
+of Secession were removed to the Missouri side. In 1828 John and Thompson
+Bird built the first houses on the present site of Cairo. Here boats were long accustomed
+to stop for supplies. In 1835, Sidney Breeze, Baker Gilbert, and others
+re-entered the forfeited land of the City and Bank of Cairo, and two years later
+obtained its incorporation as Cairo City and Canal Company. Speculation followed;
+the company purchased at a high price ten thousand acres, comprising all
+the territory between the Ohio, Mississippi, and Cache rivers, including Bird's
+Point. Plans for extensive improvements were made. D. B. Holbrook, one of
+the leading promoters, sold in Europe two million dollars in bonds. Sharp reverses
+followed and Cairo was not incorporated as a city until 1858.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_114" id="Footnote_114" href="#FNanchor_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> The steamboat "O'Connell" was built at Pittsburg in 1833.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_115" id="Footnote_115" href="#FNanchor_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> Commerce, on the Missouri side thirty miles above Cairo, was a trading
+post, as early as 1803. It was laid out in 1822, incorporated in 1857, and made
+the seat of Scott County in 1864. See Campbell, <i>Gazetteer of Missouri</i> (St. Louis,
+1875).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_116" id="Footnote_116" href="#FNanchor_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> For the early history of Cape Girardeau, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our
+volume iii, p. 80, note 154. Devil's Island, less than three miles in length, is near
+the Illinois side four miles above Cape Girardeau. Bainbridge, Missouri, twelve
+miles above the town of Cape Girardeau, was on the road from Kentucky and
+Illinois to the White River and Arkansas. Hamburg (not Harrisburg), in Calhoun
+County, Illinois, is directly across the river from Bainbridge, and at the time
+of Maximilian's visit was a new landing. The Devil's Tea Table is on the Missouri
+side eighteen miles above Cape Girardeau. For more particulars concerning the
+places between St. Louis and the mouth of the Ohio, see Flagg's <i>Far West</i>, in our
+volume xxvi, pp. 50-83 (original pagination), and footnotes to the same.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_117" id="Footnote_117" href="#FNanchor_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> See Plate 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_118" id="Footnote_118" href="#FNanchor_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> It is well known that the whole tract contains shell limestone. Mr. Lesueur
+has made important collections of this kind on the Tower Rock at Vicksburg,
+Natchez, and other places on the banks of the Mississippi, of part of which he has
+made descriptions and drawings. He has accurately stated the several strata, with
+the shells of animals and fishbones occurring in them. The shells are very friable
+when taken out of the rock&mdash;afterwards, and especially if washed in water, they
+are firmer. Mr. Lesueur has sent large collections of these things to France.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_119" id="Footnote_119" href="#FNanchor_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> St. Mary's River rises in Perry County, Illinois, and enters the Mississippi
+six miles below the mouth of the Kaskaskia. Chester is the seat of Randolph
+County, seventy-six miles below St. Louis. Large quantities of bituminous coal
+and building stone are in the vicinity. For the early history of Kaskaskia, see
+A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii, p. 69, note 132.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_120" id="Footnote_120" href="#FNanchor_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> An account of the founding of Ste. Genevi�ve is given in Cuming's <i>Tour</i>
+in our volume iv, p. 266, note 174.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_121" id="Footnote_121" href="#FNanchor_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> The mines here referred to are the <i>Mine La Mothe</i> and the <i>Mine � Burton</i>;
+a more extended account of these will be given in Flagg's <i>Far West</i>, in our volume
+xxvi.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_122" id="Footnote_122" href="#FNanchor_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> For the history of Fort Chartres, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume
+iii, p. 71, note 136.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_123" id="Footnote_123" href="#FNanchor_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> See opposite page for formations of limestone rocks.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_124" id="Footnote_124" href="#FNanchor_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> Herculaneum is a small village in Jefferson County, Missouri, at the mouth
+of Joachim Creek, about twenty-eight miles below St. Louis, and a few miles above
+the hamlet of Selena. Herculaneum was laid out in 1808 by Moses Austin and S.
+Hammond, and subsequently was made the seat of Jefferson County.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_125" id="Footnote_125" href="#FNanchor_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> Platteen (commonly spelled Plattin) Creek is a small stream rising in the
+southern part of Jefferson County, flowing north, and emptying into the Mississippi
+at the northern extremity of the county, four and a half miles below Herculaneum.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The Maramec (often pronounced and written Merrimac) River finds its source
+in Dent County, Missouri, and flowing northeast joins the Mississippi nineteen
+miles below St. Louis. Its estimated length is a hundred and fifty miles, draining
+a territory rich in mines of copper, iron, and lead.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_126" id="Footnote_126" href="#FNanchor_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> For an account of Jefferson Barracks, see Townsend's <i>Narrative</i>, in our
+volume xxi, p. 122, note 2.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Carondelet, named for Baron Carondelet, Spanish governor of Louisiana in
+1791, was formerly a village in St. Louis County, Missouri; but in 1860 it was
+merged with the First Ward of St. Louis, under the name of South St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Cahokia, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume iii, p. 70, note 135.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_127" id="Footnote_127" href="#FNanchor_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> For the early history of St. Louis, see A. Michaux's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume
+iii, p. 71, note 138. Probably the author here intends Auguste Chouteau, stepson
+of Lacl�de, founder of the city&mdash;for the former consult our volume xvi, p. 275,
+note 127.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_128" id="Footnote_128" href="#FNanchor_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> For a brief sketch of General William Clark, see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, in our
+volume v, p. 254, note 143; for a more extended notice, consult Thwaites, <i>Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition</i> (New York, 1905), introduction. This
+is an interesting glimpse of General Clark in the professional duties of his later
+life.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_129" id="Footnote_129" href="#FNanchor_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> For the early history and the alliance of the Sauk and Foxes, see J. Long's
+<i>Voyages</i>, in our volume ii, p. 185, note 85. Black Hawk and his fellow prisoners
+were being kept as hostages for the good behavior of the remainder of the tribe,
+after the war of 1832. See Thwaites, "Black Hawk War," in <i>How George Rogers
+Clark won the Northwest</i> (Chicago, 1903), pp. 116-200; and <i>Treaties between the
+United States of America and the several Indian Tribes</i> (Washington, 1837), pp.
+508-510. Soon after Maximilian's visit, Black Hawk was sent on a tour to the
+East, in order that he might appreciate the resources and power of the American
+people.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_130" id="Footnote_130" href="#FNanchor_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> Keokuk (Watchful Fox) was not a chieftain by birth, but by his address
+and eloquence raised himself to a prominent place in the allied Sauk and Fox
+tribes. Born at Saukenuk about 1780, he was younger than Black Hawk, and
+early took opposition to his policy. Keokuk was for peace and the American alliance,
+and about 1826 removed his division of the tribe across the Mississippi to
+a village southwest of the present Muscatine, Iowa. During the Black Hawk War
+he kept a large portion of the tribe neutral, and at its close was recognized by the
+federal government as head-chief of the tribe. In 1836 a large tract of Iowa land
+was ceded by the Indians to the federal government, whereupon the tribesmen
+removed to Kansas. Keokuk visited Washington several times, notably in 1837,
+when he made addresses from the platform of Catlin's museum. Catlin painted
+his portrait in the full garb of an Indian councillor, and daguerreotypes of him also
+exist. His features were of a Caucasian type, for his father was part French.
+Keokuk died in Kansas in 1848; in 1883 his remains were removed to Keokuk,
+Iowa. It is not true that in person Keokuk surrendered Black Hawk to the American
+authorities. Consult on the capture of the latter, <i>Wisconsin Historical Collections</i>,
+v, p. 293; viii, p. 316.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_131" id="Footnote_131" href="#FNanchor_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> In confirmation of the similarity of the Americans to each other, we may
+quote the authority of Humboldt, and other travellers. (See Essay on the Political
+State of New Spain, vol. i. p. 115). Dr. Meyen gives a figure of a Peruvian Mummy
+(N. Acta Acad. Caes. Leop. Car. I. xvi. Suppl. 1. Tab. 1), which perfectly expresses
+the character of the North American Indians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_132" id="Footnote_132" href="#FNanchor_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> See Meyen, Loc. cit. p. 45.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_133" id="Footnote_133" href="#FNanchor_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> There are numerous tribes in North America, also, among whom the aquiline
+nose is very rare. This is certified, with respect to the Chippeways, in Major
+Long's account of his journey to St. Peter's River; and Captain Bonneville says
+that the people to the east of the Rocky Mountains have, in general, aquiline noses,
+but that the tribes to the west of those mountains, mostly straight or flat noses.
+(See Washington Irving's Adventures of Captain Bonneville, p. 221.)&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_134" id="Footnote_134" href="#FNanchor_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> N. Bossu, a French officer who in 1750 came with troops to Louisiana. He
+remained about twelve years in the country, and published <i>Nouveaux Voyages
+aux Indes occidentales</i> (Paris, 1768), an English translation of which appeared
+in 1771.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For the fate of the Natchez, consult Nuttall's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume xiii, p. 303,
+note 226.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The Botocudo are a Tapuyan tribe of southeastern Brazil.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_135" id="Footnote_135" href="#FNanchor_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> For Baron von Humboldt, see our volume xviii, p. 345, note 136.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Franz Julius Ferdinand Meyen was a German botanist who voyaged around
+the world in 1830-32. Upon his return he was called to a chair at Berlin, but
+died prematurely in 1840 at the age of thirty-eight. He published many memoirs
+in scientific journals, and in 1834-35 an account of his world-wide voyage.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_136" id="Footnote_136" href="#FNanchor_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> Louis Isidore Duperrey, a French naval officer (1786-1865), entered the
+navy in 1802. Soon afterwards he made two long voyages around the world, and
+published much hydrographic and scientific matter. In 1842 he was chosen member
+of the French Academy of Sciences.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_137" id="Footnote_137" href="#FNanchor_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> Loc. cit. p. 18.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_138" id="Footnote_138" href="#FNanchor_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> Loc. cit. p. 117.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_139" id="Footnote_139" href="#FNanchor_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> For Zebulon M. Pike, see Evans's <i>Pedestrious Tour</i>, in our volume viii,
+p. 280, note 122.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_140" id="Footnote_140" href="#FNanchor_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Loc. cit., vol. i. p. 3.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_141" id="Footnote_141" href="#FNanchor_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> Warden, Loc. cit., part ii. plate x. fig. 4.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> Referring to D. B. Warden, <i>Recherches sur les Antiquities
+de l'Am�rique Septentrionale</i>. The stream where the antique vase was found, was
+Caney Fork of Cumberland, in central Tennessee.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_142" id="Footnote_142" href="#FNanchor_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> The Foxes call this ornament kate�ikunn. I have given a figure of it, in
+the Plate of utensils and arms.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> See Plate 81, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_143" id="Footnote_143" href="#FNanchor_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> See Plate 36, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Watapinat, a Fox Indian, is cited as being here portrayed. This drawing
+could not, however, be engraved; and so another Musquake (Fox) Indian,
+Wakassasse was pictured.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian</span> (in German edition).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_144" id="Footnote_144" href="#FNanchor_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> These small shell cylinders are known to be cut out of the shells of the <i>Venus
+mercenaria</i>, and strung on threads; they are arranged blue and white alternately.
+All the northern and eastern nations, in the neighbourhood of the great lakes, and
+even the tribes on the Lower Missouri, use this ornament, but not those on the
+Upper Missouri. On this subject see Blumenbach, Handbuch der Naturgeschichte,
+12 ed., p. 359, 385.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_145" id="Footnote_145" href="#FNanchor_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> An iron battle-axe, made by the whites, which has a pipe bowl at the back,
+the handle being bored through, to serve as tube to the pipe.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_146" id="Footnote_146" href="#FNanchor_146"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> This instrument is the only weapon of the Indians which has lost something
+of its original character, since the merchants have had them manufactured
+with a steel point, as an article of trade with the Indians. A specimen of the
+original form is found in Pennant's "Arctic Zoology," Plate VI., the middle figure.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_147" id="Footnote_147" href="#FNanchor_147"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> See Plate 81, figure 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_148" id="Footnote_148" href="#FNanchor_148"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> See the same Plate, figure 3.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_149" id="Footnote_149" href="#FNanchor_149"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> In 1816, in order to control the neighboring territory, Fort Armstrong was
+erected on Rock Island. For many years Thomas Forsyth was Indian agent to
+the Sauk and Fox tribe at this place, and by many it was thought that had he not
+been removed the Black Hawk War might have been prevented. Felix St. Vrain,
+his successor, was slain at the outset of that uprising (1832). At the time of Maximilian's
+journey, W. S. Davenport was agent at Fort Armstrong.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">This treaty referred to was made in 1804 at St. Louis, by Governor William
+H. Harrison. It was not ratified, however, until January, 1805. It was the inciting
+cause of the Black Hawk War. See Thwaites, <i>op. cit.</i> in note 127, <i>ante</i>, pp.
+116-126.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_150" id="Footnote_150" href="#FNanchor_150"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> For this reference see note 104, <i>ante</i>, p. 201.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_151" id="Footnote_151" href="#FNanchor_151"><span class="label">[151]</span></a> See Thwaites, "Early Lead Mining on the Mississippi," in <i>How George
+Rogers Clark won the Northwest</i>, pp. 299-332.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_152" id="Footnote_152" href="#FNanchor_152"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> Portions of this collection are still in possession of Clark's descendants; see
+Thwaites, "Newly Discovered Records of Lewis and Clark," in <i>Scribner's Magazine</i>,
+xxxv, pp. 685-700.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_153" id="Footnote_153" href="#FNanchor_153"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> The "Warrior," built at Pittsburg in 1832, was rated at 110 tons. It was
+used during the Black Hawk War to convey federal supplies, and took effective
+part in the battle of Bad Axe, by which Black Hawk's band was nearly annihilated.
+See J. H. Fonda's "Reminiscences," in <i>Wisconsin Historical Collections</i>, v, pp.
+261-264.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_154" id="Footnote_154" href="#FNanchor_154"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> General Henry Atkinson was born in North Carolina in 1782. In 1808 he
+entered the regular army as captain, mounting through various grades to that of
+brigadier-general (1821). He was connected with the Yellowstone expeditions
+of 1819 and 1825, but perhaps his most important service was as leader of the
+federal troops in the Black Hawk War, wherein he was called "White Beaver"
+by the Indians. At its close he took command of Jefferson Barracks, where he
+died in 1842.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_155" id="Footnote_155" href="#FNanchor_155"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> See Townsend's <i>Narrative</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 123, note 3, for a brief
+sketch of Black Hawk. His portrait was painted by Catlin at Jefferson Barracks,
+and again by R. M. Sully at Fortress Monroe. The latter canvas is in the museum
+of the Wisconsin Historical Society.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_156" id="Footnote_156" href="#FNanchor_156"><span class="label">[156]</span></a> Winnebago Prophet, more commonly known as White Cloud (a translation
+of his Indian name Wabokieshiek), was the "medicine man" of Black Hawk's
+revolt. He was Winnebago on his mother's side, and had a village on Rock River,
+forty miles above Rock Island&mdash;the present Prophetstown, Illinois. After the war
+he was captured, and shared Black Hawk's imprisonment, dying among the Winnebago
+about 1841. His portrait was painted by Catlin at Jefferson Barracks,
+and again at Fortress Monroe by R. M. Sully&mdash;the latter, in the museum of the
+Wisconsin Historical Society, portrays a cunning, rather low type of face, stronger
+and more subtle than that of Black Hawk.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_157" id="Footnote_157" href="#FNanchor_157"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> For Captain Stewart, see Townsend's <i>Narrative</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 197,
+note 42.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_158" id="Footnote_158" href="#FNanchor_158"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> For the building and first voyages of the "Yellowstone" see our volume xxi,
+p. 46, note 26 (Wyeth).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_159" id="Footnote_159" href="#FNanchor_159"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> For the Mackinac Company see Ross's <i>Oregon Settlers</i>, our volume vii, pp.
+34, 35&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_160" id="Footnote_160" href="#FNanchor_160"><span class="label">[160]</span></a> See Washington Irving's Astoria.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_161" id="Footnote_161" href="#FNanchor_161"><span class="label">[161]</span></a> Astor's company had originally been organized in 1808. After absorbing
+the Mackinac Company it was until 1816 known as the South West Company,
+when a re-organization occurred, resulting in the American Fur Company. See
+Chittenden, <i>Fur-Trade</i>, i, pp. 309-311. The Columbia River enterprise is narrated
+in our volumes vi and vii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_162" id="Footnote_162" href="#FNanchor_162"><span class="label">[162]</span></a> The Missouri Fur Company was organized (1808) soon after the return of
+the Lewis and Clark expedition, with Clark, a brother of Lewis, and several well-known
+merchants of Illinois and St. Louis as members. Its chief trader, later
+the president, was Manuel Lisa. After his death in 1820 the fortunes of the company
+declined.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">By the French Company Maximilian intends a firm composed of Papin, Cerr�,
+and Picotte, which in 1830 sold out to the American Fur Company. Its career
+was but about three years long.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_163" id="Footnote_163" href="#FNanchor_163"><span class="label">[163]</span></a> The Columbia Fur Company was organized after the consolidation of the
+British companies (1821) had thrown a number of enterprising Scotch and Canadian
+traders out of employment. Its leading spirits were Kenneth McKenzie,
+William Laidlaw, and Daniel Lamont. Organized to trade within the boundaries
+of the United States, it was technically known as Tilton and Company, of
+New York. The chief outfitting post was built upon Lake Traverse, Minnesota,
+whence passage to the upper Missouri was quickly secured. The operations of
+this company harassed the American Fur Company, which in 1827 entered into
+a combination with the Columbia, thus securing control of the upper Missouri
+trade. See Chittenden, <i>Fur-Trade</i>, i, pp. 323-327.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_164" id="Footnote_164" href="#FNanchor_164"><span class="label">[164]</span></a> For Ramsay Crooks, see our volume v, p. 36, note 3.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_165" id="Footnote_165" href="#FNanchor_165"><span class="label">[165]</span></a> The Rocky Mountain Fur Company&mdash;first under General William H. Ashley,
+later under the Sublettes, Thomas Fitzpatrick, etc.&mdash;absorbed a large proportion
+of the Western fur-trade in the decade before Maximilian arrived in St. Louis.
+It was one of their caravans that Captain Stewart urged the prince to accompany.
+Consult our volume xxi, for the operations of this corporation.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_166" id="Footnote_166" href="#FNanchor_166"><span class="label">[166]</span></a> Mr. Schoolcraft, in his latest journey to Itasca Lake (page 35), gives a short
+history of the fur trade, which, in many places, has already fallen into entire decay;
+for instance, on Lake St. Croix (page 141), if the inhabitants of those parts do
+not take to agriculture, they must emigrate or starve.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_167" id="Footnote_167" href="#FNanchor_167"><span class="label">[167]</span></a> For the early history of the Hudson's Bay and North West companies see
+preface to J. Long's <i>Voyages</i>, in our volume ii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_168" id="Footnote_168" href="#FNanchor_168"><span class="label">[168]</span></a> The "Upper Missouri Outfit" branch of the American Fur Company controlled
+the upper Missouri and its tributaries, from the date of consolidation with
+the Columbia Company (1827) until the advance of emigration and settlement made
+fur-trapping unprofitable.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_169" id="Footnote_169" href="#FNanchor_169"><span class="label">[169]</span></a> For Major Benjamin O'Fallon and John Dougherty, see Faux's <i>Journal</i>
+in our volume xii, p. 49, note 127, and James's <i>Long's Expedition</i>, in our volume
+xiv, p. 126, note 92.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_170" id="Footnote_170" href="#FNanchor_170"><span class="label">[170]</span></a> Pierre Chouteau, jr., son of the elder of that name (for whom see our volume
+xvi, p. 275, note 127), was born at St. Louis, January 19, 1789; among his family
+he was known as "Cadet." Early evincing unusual talents as a trader, he entered
+his father's business at the age of sixteen. The years 1806-08 he spent at the lead
+mines with Julien Dubuque, and in 1809 made his first fur-trade voyage to the
+upper Missouri, whose commercial destinies he was so long to control. In 1813
+he formed a partnership on his own account with Bartholomew Berthold, which
+operated independently until they were bought out by the American Fur Company,
+for whom Chouteau became local manager. Later he extended his financial operations
+to New York, and became one of the moneyed princes of that city, although
+dying in St. Louis in 1865. His public services were chiefly local, but he served
+in the state constitutional convention of 1820. He was interested in scientific pursuits,
+and ready to assist travellers bound on such errands.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Kenneth McKenzie see Wyeth's <i>Oregon</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 45, note 25.
+The winter of 1834-35 McKenzie paid a visit to Prince Maximilian in his German
+home, where he was received with much hospitality and brought news to his host of
+recent affairs on the Missouri, which the latter reports in the appendix to the
+German edition of his work, ii, p. 616.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_171" id="Footnote_171" href="#FNanchor_171"><span class="label">[171]</span></a> Especially provisions, coffee, sugar, brandy, candles, fine gunpowder, shot
+of every kind, colours, paper, some books, &amp;c.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_172" id="Footnote_172" href="#FNanchor_172"><span class="label">[172]</span></a> For Joshua Pilcher, see our volume xiv, p. 269, note 193.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_173" id="Footnote_173" href="#FNanchor_173"><span class="label">[173]</span></a> Major John F. A. Sanford was a native of Winchester, Virginia. Upon
+appointment to an Indian sub-agency, he came west, and (1827-34) lived among
+the Mandans; later (1837), he was agent at Fort Gibson. He married Emilie
+Chouteau, daughter of Pierre, jr. Subsequently becoming interested in American
+Fur Company affairs, he (about 1838) removed to New York as its representative.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Jonathan L. Bean, of Pennsylvania, was government sub-agent (1827-34) for
+the Sioux.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_174" id="Footnote_174" href="#FNanchor_174"><span class="label">[174]</span></a> Major Benjamin O'Fallon was a nephew of William Clark, and the map of
+the upper Missouri, which he furnished to Maximilian, was a manuscript copy of
+an original map by the hand of the famous explorer. Inquiry of the reigning
+prince of Wied-Neuwied elicits the following information: "Major O'Fallon
+made a present to the prince in the year 1833, at the beginning of his journey of
+that year, of a copy of this chart, which the prince [Maximilian] during his journey
+completed and supplied its deficiencies. This copy, a little atlas of thirty-seven leaves,
+is in the archives here. Upon one leaf, in the handwriting of Prince Max, is the
+following inscription: 'I received this exact copy of the original by the goodness
+of the late Indian agent, Major O'Fallon.'" See Thwaites' <i>Original Journals of
+the Lewis and Clark Expedition</i>, introduction, concerning Clark's maps and the
+extant originals.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_175" id="Footnote_175" href="#FNanchor_175"><span class="label">[175]</span></a> Other travellers of our series made their way up the Missouri&mdash;Bradbury
+(volume v), and Brackenridge (volume vi), in 1811, in a barge; Long's party (our
+volumes xiv-xvii) in 1819, 1820 in a steamboat; Townsend (our volume xxi), in
+1834, partly by land and partly by river. Such places as they mention will not
+here be specifically noticed, a general reference to these earlier volumes being considered
+sufficient.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_176" id="Footnote_176" href="#FNanchor_176"><span class="label">[176]</span></a> See Plate 10, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. The Kickapoo
+are briefly noticed in Croghan's <i>Journals</i>, in our volume i, p. 139, note 111. They
+removed to the west of the Mississippi after the treaty at Edwardsville, Illinois,
+in 1819.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_177" id="Footnote_177" href="#FNanchor_177"><span class="label">[177]</span></a> Schoolcraft justly observes that the course of the Missouri is much more
+considerable than that of the Mississippi, and that it would have been more
+proper to leave the name Missouri to the river, and not call it the Mississippi.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_178" id="Footnote_178" href="#FNanchor_178"><span class="label">[178]</span></a> Still called Ramrod Eddy, about five miles above St. Charles. See Missouri
+River Commissioners' map, made by United States engineers in 1878-79,
+and published 1883-84.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_179" id="Footnote_179" href="#FNanchor_179"><span class="label">[179]</span></a> See our volume xviii, p. 25, note 1.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_180" id="Footnote_180" href="#FNanchor_180"><span class="label">[180]</span></a> The stream is now called Buffalo Creek, in Warren County, with the town
+of Dundee at its mouth.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Pinckney was a small village, the seat of Montgomery County (1818-24), but
+now in Warren County, where a township still retains the name, the site of the
+town having long since been washed away.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_181" id="Footnote_181" href="#FNanchor_181"><span class="label">[181]</span></a> The success of the steamboat "Yellowstone," in the fur-trade business,
+was so great that the company ordered a somewhat larger craft, which was built
+at Cincinnati in the winter of 1832-33, and christened the "Assiniboine." This
+was its initial voyage. The next year it ventured too far above the Yellowstone
+River, was caught by low water and obliged to winter near Poplar River. The
+"Assiniboine" was lost by fire near Bismarck, North Dakota, June 1, 1835, having
+on board a large cargo of furs, the year's supply, as well as all of Maximilian's
+collection. See preface, <i>ante</i> p. <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_182" id="Footnote_182" href="#FNanchor_182"><span class="label">[182]</span></a> Otter is more commonly known as Loutre Island; see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>,
+our volume v, p. 47, note 18.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_183" id="Footnote_183" href="#FNanchor_183"><span class="label">[183]</span></a> Au Vase (now Auxvasse) Creek took its name from the miring of a party
+under charge of Lilburn W. Boggs. It is in Callaway County; and Portland, a
+hamlet on the north side of the stream, was laid off therein in 1831.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_184" id="Footnote_184" href="#FNanchor_184"><span class="label">[184]</span></a> The defense of this place is detailed in our volume xiv, pp. 139, 140. For
+Brackenridge, see our volume vi.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_185" id="Footnote_185" href="#FNanchor_185"><span class="label">[185]</span></a> In 1820 a commission was chosen to select a site for the state capital, somewhere
+near the centre of the state. The place selected was in Cole County, but
+it did not actually become the capital until about 1826. On Long's map it is
+marked as "Missouriopolis."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_186" id="Footnote_186" href="#FNanchor_186"><span class="label">[186]</span></a> These two places are noticed in our volume xxi, p. 133, note 8 (Townsend.)&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_187" id="Footnote_187" href="#FNanchor_187"><span class="label">[187]</span></a> For Boonville see our volume xxi, p. 89, note 59 (Wyeth). For Franklin,
+volume xix, p. 188, note 33 (Gregg).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_188" id="Footnote_188" href="#FNanchor_188"><span class="label">[188]</span></a> Probably the settlement now known as Arrow Rock, in Saline County.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_189" id="Footnote_189" href="#FNanchor_189"><span class="label">[189]</span></a> The treaty of cession was signed in 1824, whereby the Iowa Indians relinquished
+all lands in Missouri, agreeing not to hunt therein after January 1, 1826.
+See <i>Indian Treaties</i> (Washington, 1837), p. 316.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_190" id="Footnote_190" href="#FNanchor_190"><span class="label">[190]</span></a> None of the Indian languages of these parts, of which Major Dougherty
+spoke thirteen or fourteen, have any general plural; thus, for instance, they never
+say, in general, <i>horses</i>, but always mention a number, as expressive of many horses;
+nor is there any real article.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_191" id="Footnote_191" href="#FNanchor_191"><span class="label">[191]</span></a> Wakenda Creek, the largest stream in Carroll County, is named from an
+Indian term meaning "divinity" or "worshipped."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_192" id="Footnote_192" href="#FNanchor_192"><span class="label">[192]</span></a> Some accounts say that the Osages were the assailants, but I believe the
+above statement to be correct, because it was given me by Major Dougherty.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_193" id="Footnote_193" href="#FNanchor_193"><span class="label">[193]</span></a> This defeat of the Missouri, once the most powerful tribe on the lower reaches
+of the river, occurred toward the close of the eighteenth century. Small-pox completed
+the destruction of the tribe. See Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume v,
+p. 56, note 26.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_194" id="Footnote_194" href="#FNanchor_194"><span class="label">[194]</span></a> Fire Prairie is on the south bank of the Missouri, in the present Lafayette
+County, a creek of the same name entering the river at this point. It is said to
+take its name from the death there of several Indians in a prairie fire.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_195" id="Footnote_195" href="#FNanchor_195"><span class="label">[195]</span></a> See Plate 37, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_196" id="Footnote_196" href="#FNanchor_196"><span class="label">[196]</span></a> Fishing Creek (or River) rises in Clinton County and flows south and southeast
+into the Missouri through Clay and Ray counties.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_197" id="Footnote_197" href="#FNanchor_197"><span class="label">[197]</span></a> An historical notice of old Fort Osage is given in Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, our
+volume v, p. 60, note 31. The Osage Indians, <i>ibid</i>, p. 50, note 22. The cession
+by which the Osage were forced back was made at St. Louis in June, 1825, under
+General William Clark's superintendency.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_198" id="Footnote_198" href="#FNanchor_198"><span class="label">[198]</span></a> Now known as Little Blue Creek, rising on the southern borders of Jackson
+County and flowing nearly north into the Missouri.&mdash;<i>Ed.</i></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_199" id="Footnote_199" href="#FNanchor_199"><span class="label">[199]</span></a> Liberty, the county seat of Clay, was settled in 1822, but up to 1826 had
+only about a dozen houses; it was incorporated in 1829. During the Mormon
+troubles of the fourth decade of the nineteenth century, Liberty rose into prominence.
+The town is set back about six miles from the river, on the high, salubrious
+uplands. Liberty Landing, on the river, was in the days of the Santa F�
+trade of some commercial importance.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_200" id="Footnote_200" href="#FNanchor_200"><span class="label">[200]</span></a> Maximilian's remarks are misleading in regard to the operations of these
+traders. Ashley began his fur-trading ventures in 1822; four years later he sold
+out to Smith, Jackson, and Sublette; they in turn relinquished their business to
+younger traders in 1830. So the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had for about
+eleven years been an efficient rival to the American.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For a brief sketch of Sublette see our volume xix, p. 221, note 55 (Gregg).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">General William Henry Ashley was born in Virginia in 1778. Soon after the
+beginning of the nineteenth century he went to Missouri, settling first at Ste. Genevi�ve,
+later in St. Louis, and embarking in various mercantile enterprises. In
+1816-17 he surveyed in the state, and the knowledge thus obtained permitted him
+to make heavy investments for some English capitalists, which laid the foundation
+of his fortune. In 1820 he was elected lieutenant-governor, and during his term
+(1820-24) began his fur-trading exploits, from which he derived profit and fame.
+His title came as leader of the state militia, in whose development he was much
+interested. In 1831 he was appointed to a vacant seat in Congress, being re-elected
+thereto two successive terms. He died at St. Louis in 1838.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_201" id="Footnote_201" href="#FNanchor_201"><span class="label">[201]</span></a> The Big Blue rises in Johnson County, Kansas, and flows northeast and
+north through Jackson County, Missouri, until it joins the Missouri six miles
+below Kansas City.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_202" id="Footnote_202" href="#FNanchor_202"><span class="label">[202]</span></a> This trading post was on the south side of the Kansas, opposite Muncie,
+in what is now Wyandotte County, built about 1828. It was for many years in
+charge of Cyprian Chouteau (1802-79), half brother of Pierre, jr. Fr�mont set
+out thence on his journey (1842).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_203" id="Footnote_203" href="#FNanchor_203"><span class="label">[203]</span></a> See our volume xiv, pp. 183-198.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_204" id="Footnote_204" href="#FNanchor_204"><span class="label">[204]</span></a> These villages of the Iowa, on the Little Platte, appear to have been temporary.
+Probably the tribe had fled in this direction after the troubles of the
+Black Hawk War (1832). In 1836 they ceded this strip&mdash;which was added to
+Missouri as the "Platte Purchase"&mdash;and removed to Kansas. The author cannot
+intend that the language of the Iowa resembled that of the Ottawa; the
+former is of Dakota stock, the latter of Algonquian. The Sauk and Foxes, at
+this time intimately commingled with the Iowa, spoke Algonquian.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_205" id="Footnote_205" href="#FNanchor_205"><span class="label">[205]</span></a> For these islands, see our volume xiv, p. 174, note 141.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_206" id="Footnote_206" href="#FNanchor_206"><span class="label">[206]</span></a> Fort Leavenworth was founded to supersede two smaller posts&mdash;Forts Osage
+and Atkinson&mdash;the latter near Council Bluffs. The site was chosen because of
+the increasing interest in the Santa F� trade, and because of the removal of large
+tribes of Indians west of the Missouri border. On March 7, 1827, Colonel Henry
+Leavenworth was ordered to proceed from Jefferson Barracks and choose the site
+for an establishment on the left bank of the Missouri, within twenty miles of the
+mouth of Little Platte. He selected instead Rattlesnake Hills on the right bank,
+a site later approved by the government. Fort Leavenworth has been an important
+military post throughout the history of the West. It was called Leavenworth
+Cantonment until the name was officially changed to "Fort," about 1832.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">For Major Bennett Riley see our volume xix, p. 185, note 25 (Gregg).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_207" id="Footnote_207" href="#FNanchor_207"><span class="label">[207]</span></a> This law was passed in the first session of the twenty-second congress, and
+was merely a portion of an act to create an Indian commissioner. It caused but
+little debate, and apparently was fathered by General Ashley and others cognizant
+of conditions in the fur-trade. For the consternation it created among the traders
+consult Chittenden, <i>Fur-Trade</i>, index.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_208" id="Footnote_208" href="#FNanchor_208"><span class="label">[208]</span></a> According to the treaty held at St. Louis in 1832, with the Kickapoo chiefs,
+a deputation was to visit the new territory in Kansas and agree to the lands chosen.
+This was accordingly done in November, and this would appear to be among the
+arrivals early in the spring of 1833 to take possession of the new reservation.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_209" id="Footnote_209" href="#FNanchor_209"><span class="label">[209]</span></a> Lewis and Clark apply this term with different orthography (Waucarba,
+wacandda) to the island above Fort Leavenworth now known as Kickapoo. The
+river is here compressed into a narrow space, above which it widens considerably.
+See Thwaites, <i>Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition</i>, i, p. 64.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_210" id="Footnote_210" href="#FNanchor_210"><span class="label">[210]</span></a> For this detachment under Captain Martin, see our volume xiv, p. 175.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_211" id="Footnote_211" href="#FNanchor_211"><span class="label">[211]</span></a> The creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because its mouth was passed
+by them on July 4, 1804. It is a small stream entering the Missouri near the
+boundaries of Doniphan and Atchison counties, Kansas. According to Lewis and
+Clark this was the second old Kansa village, the first being just above Kickapoo
+Island. If the Spanish ever had a post in this vicinity, it must have been in the
+capacity of succeeding (after 1764) to the possession of the old French post among
+the Kansa Indians. See on this subject, <i>Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition</i>, i, pp. 64-68, and notes.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_212" id="Footnote_212" href="#FNanchor_212"><span class="label">[212]</span></a> Joseph Robidoux, whose trading post was on the site of the future city of
+St. Joseph, which took its name from its founder. The Robidoux were a family
+of fur-traders. The father, Joseph, came from Montreal to Kaskaskia, and having
+won a competence removed to St. Louis, where at his house the first territorial
+legislature of Missouri met in 1812. Joseph, jr., was born in 1783, and early
+entered the fur-trade. Lewis and Clark met "young Mr. Robidoux" on their
+return journey (1806), and scrutinized his license with some suspicion. Lewis
+also complained of the loyalty of the elder trader, saying that he enticed the Indians
+from their allegiance to the United States. The younger Robidoux lived for many
+years at the post where Maximilian met him&mdash;in 1868 dying at this place, where
+the city had already sprung up around him. See sketch in Joseph Tasse, <i>Canadiens
+du Nord-Ouest</i> (Montreal, 1878), ii, p. 131.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_213" id="Footnote_213" href="#FNanchor_213"><span class="label">[213]</span></a> The Joways had exchanged their blankets and other effects for brandy.
+White settlers have already established themselves fifteen or sixteen miles within
+the Indian territory, who make whisky, and sell it excessively cheap to the Indians,
+by which these people are ruined. The distance is only eight miles from Roubedoux
+trading house to the Little Platte River; and between these two rivers and the
+high land, is the village of the Joways.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_214" id="Footnote_214" href="#FNanchor_214"><span class="label">[214]</span></a> This is, doubtless, the same river which Bradbury, in his <i>Travels</i>, calls Naduet
+River.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_215" id="Footnote_215" href="#FNanchor_215"><span class="label">[215]</span></a> For Captain Martin see James's <i>Long's Expedition</i>, in our volume xiv, p. 175,
+note 142. Maximilian would here appear to be confused. Martin passed the winter
+of 1818 to 1819 on Cow Island (see note 208, <i>ante</i>, p. 256). He had, however,
+a hunting camp in this vicinity.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_216" id="Footnote_216" href="#FNanchor_216"><span class="label">[216]</span></a> For the Oto, see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, our volume v, p. 74, note 42.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_217" id="Footnote_217" href="#FNanchor_217"><span class="label">[217]</span></a> Morgan's Island is just below Nemaha City, in the Nebraska county of the
+same name. Probably it took its title from Colonel Willoughby Morgan, for whom
+see our volume xiv, p. 178, note 146. The trading post has not been identified,
+unless it were that of Crooks and McClellan, who once (1810-11) wintered in this
+region. See Brackenridge's <i>Journal</i>, volume vi of our series, p. 71.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_218" id="Footnote_218" href="#FNanchor_218"><span class="label">[218]</span></a> Lewis and Clark found the passage across the narrows at this point but
+300 yards. Changes have since occurred in the beds of both rivers. See our
+volume xiv, p. 217, note 166. The range of hills was aptly designated by the explorers
+as Bald Pated Prairie.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_219" id="Footnote_219" href="#FNanchor_219"><span class="label">[219]</span></a> Weeping Water Creek is a small stream paralleling the Platte in Cass County,
+Nebraska. The French form was "l'eau qui pleure."</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Five Barrel Islands are laid down on early maps; with changes in the river's
+bed, they are now swept away.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_220" id="Footnote_220" href="#FNanchor_220"><span class="label">[220]</span></a> For a brief sketch of Fontenelle, see our volume xiv, p. 275, note 196.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_221" id="Footnote_221" href="#FNanchor_221"><span class="label">[221]</span></a> See Brackenridge's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume vi, p. 76, for the origin of this
+name. The Indian name of the chief&mdash;an Oto&mdash;is given by Lewis and Clark as
+"Sarnanona."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_222" id="Footnote_222" href="#FNanchor_222"><span class="label">[222]</span></a> In the Appendix there is an account of this purchase.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span>
+<i>Comment by Ed.</i> See our volume xxiv.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_223" id="Footnote_223" href="#FNanchor_223"><span class="label">[223]</span></a> The first trading post in this locality (with possible exceptions for the Spanish
+r�gime) was that of Crooks and McClellan, who in 1810 built a "wintering establishment"
+here, which was abandoned the following spring&mdash;see Bradbury and
+Brackenridge (1811). Shortly after, Manuel Lisa built his well-known Fort Lisa,
+some sixteen miles above Bellevue, which continued to be the prominent post of
+the vicinity (see James's <i>Long's Expedition</i>, our volume xiv, p. 221), near which
+the Yellowstone Expedition built Engineer Cantonment for the winter of 1819-20.
+The Missouri Fur Company, under Joshua Pilcher, who succeeded Lisa as president,
+removed from Fort Lisa to the site of Bellevue about 1823. It was this post
+that Fontenelle bought out, and turned over to the American Fur Company when
+he became their agent. The post was for many years in command of Peter Sarpy.
+The Indian agency was officially entitled "Council Bluffs at Bellevue." In 1849
+a postoffice was established here, and the village incorporated in 1854; some of
+the post buildings remained until 1870. Bellevue is now a village in Sarpy County,
+of which it was the capital until 1875.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_224" id="Footnote_224" href="#FNanchor_224"><span class="label">[224]</span></a> Mackinaw boats are strong, open vessels, made of a light wood, in which
+goods are conveyed on the rivers of the Northern and Western States.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_225" id="Footnote_225" href="#FNanchor_225"><span class="label">[225]</span></a> See opposite <a href="#illo269">page</a> for illustration of Omaha Indians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_226" id="Footnote_226" href="#FNanchor_226"><span class="label">[226]</span></a> See our volume xv, pp. 27-33. This woman was the Indian wife of Manuel
+Lisa. See Chittenden, <i>Fur-Trade</i>, i, pp. 133-135. Judge Walter B. Douglas, of
+St. Louis, furnishes the following facts concerning Lisa's daughter, who was
+educated among the whites. She married a Baptist minister named Ely, and
+reared a considerable family, dying recently at Trenton, Illinois, a small town not
+far from St. Louis.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_227" id="Footnote_227" href="#FNanchor_227"><span class="label">[227]</span></a> For the Omaha Indians see our volume v, p. 86, note 49.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_228" id="Footnote_228" href="#FNanchor_228"><span class="label">[228]</span></a> Jean Pierre Cabann� was born in Pau, France, in 1773. After receiving
+good education he came to America&mdash;first to New Orleans, later to St. Louis,
+where he married (1797) Julie Gratiot, whose sister was the wife of Pierre Chouteau.
+For many years he was member of the firm of Chouteau and Pratte, thus
+acquiring an interest in the American Fur Company. The family home at St.
+Louis was the seat of a pleasant hospitality; but like many of the chief fur-traders,
+Cabann� spent part of each year in the Indian country, where he was head of the
+department centering near Council Bluffs. He left this post about the time of
+Maximilian's visit, owing to difficulty with a rival trader, Le Clerc, who had appealed
+to the courts. Cabann� died in St. Louis in 1841. His post was nine or
+ten miles by land above the present site of Omaha.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_229" id="Footnote_229" href="#FNanchor_229"><span class="label">[229]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo269b">269</a>, for illustration of an Omaha boy.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_230" id="Footnote_230" href="#FNanchor_230"><span class="label">[230]</span></a> Not only these feather caps are pretty similar to those in Brazil, but also
+the chief instrument of the conjurors, or physicians (medicine men)&mdash;schischikue,
+as it is called&mdash;a calabash with a handle, in which there are small stones to rattle.
+The Omahas, and all the other North American tribes, use it exactly in the same
+manner as the Brazilians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_231" id="Footnote_231" href="#FNanchor_231"><span class="label">[231]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo269c">269</a>, for illustration of an Omaha war-club.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_232" id="Footnote_232" href="#FNanchor_232"><span class="label">[232]</span></a> See our volume xiv, pp. 288-321; and xv, pp. 11-136.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_233" id="Footnote_233" href="#FNanchor_233"><span class="label">[233]</span></a> For Boyer River, see our volume xiv, p. 221, note 174.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">This fort at Council Bluffs was not on the site of the Iowa town of that name,
+but some miles higher up the river, on the Nebraska bank, near the village now
+known as Fort Calhoun, in Washington County. The name was first applied to
+the bluffs by Lewis and Clark, who held here (1804) an important council with
+chiefs of neighboring tribes. The United States post was built by a detachment
+under Colonel Henry Atkinson, when embarked on the famous Yellowstone expedition
+of 1819. The means of transportation proving inadequate, the troops
+never reached the Yellowstone, but formed at this point Camp Missouri, where
+during the winter of 1819-20 much sickness prevailed. The fort was finally christened
+Atkinson, for its founder, and was so known to the government. The local
+name was Fort Calhoun&mdash;whether in honor of the then secretary of war, or for a
+soldier who was the first to be here buried, is disputed. On the building of Fort
+Leavenworth, the troops were removed thither. See note 204, <i>ante</i>, p. 253.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_234" id="Footnote_234" href="#FNanchor_234"><span class="label">[234]</span></a> For Blackbird, see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, in our volume v, p. 86; Brackenridge's
+<i>Journal</i>, in our volume vi, pp. 81, 82; and James's <i>Long's Expedition</i>, in
+our volume xiv, pp. 315-320.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_235" id="Footnote_235" href="#FNanchor_235"><span class="label">[235]</span></a> For Big Elk, see our volume v, p. 90, note 52; also xv, p. 320.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Dr. John D. Godman (1794-1830) was a Marylander who in 1814 participated
+in the defense of Fort McHenry. Later studying medicine, he was a professor of
+anatomy at several colleges, retiring finally to Germantown, Pennsylvania, where
+he devoted himself to scientific pursuits. His best known work was <i>American
+Natural History</i> (Philadelphia, 1828).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">By Horn River our author intends Elkhorn, for which see our volume xiv,
+p. 240, note 182.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_236" id="Footnote_236" href="#FNanchor_236"><span class="label">[236]</span></a> For Floyd, see our volume v, p. 91, note 56; also <i>Original Journals of the
+Lewis and Clark Expedition</i>, i, p. 114.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_237" id="Footnote_237" href="#FNanchor_237"><span class="label">[237]</span></a> For the Big Sioux River, see our volume vi, p. 85, note 30. This branch
+of the Dakota (or Sioux), mentioned by Maximilian, is known as the Wahpekute,
+one of the two components of the Santee band of the Sioux. Together with the
+Mdewakantonwan or Spirit Lake band, they were the Sioux first known to Europeans,
+being designated by Hennepin as Issati. Their habitat was the upper
+waters of the Mississippi, and the St. Peter's (Minnesota) River. They wandered
+toward the Big Sioux River, which was made the boundary by the treaty of 1825
+at Prairie du Chien&mdash;William Clark and Lewis Cass, commissioners. In this
+treaty the Big Sioux River is designated as the Calumet, probably because of the
+proximity of its source to the red pipestone quarries of southwestern Minnesota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_238" id="Footnote_238" href="#FNanchor_238"><span class="label">[238]</span></a> Iowa Creek, a small stream running nearly parallel to the Missouri in Dixon
+County, Nebraska. Lewis and Clark speak of the peculiar appearance of the
+bluff at this place, calling the creek "Rologe."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_239" id="Footnote_239" href="#FNanchor_239"><span class="label">[239]</span></a> Wigwam is the name given to the Indian huts. The word comes from the
+Ojibua language, in which uikiuam signifies hut. This word has been corrupted,
+and applied by the whites to the habitations of all the Indian tribes.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_240" id="Footnote_240" href="#FNanchor_240"><span class="label">[240]</span></a> The James (or Dakota) River rises just south of Devil's Lake in Wells and
+Fargo counties, North Dakota, and flows nearly south into the Missouri. Its
+French name was Rivi�re � Jacques. Calumet Bluff is just above its mouth, nearly
+opposite Yankton, South Dakota. The term "Sego Island" does not occur in
+the Lewis and Clark text, nor has the name been preserved to the present day.
+They named White Bear Cliff for an animal of that kind killed in one of its holes.
+It was on the north bank, three or four miles above Yankton.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_241" id="Footnote_241" href="#FNanchor_241"><span class="label">[241]</span></a> For Bernard Pratte, sr., see our volume xv, p. 193, note 71. In addition,
+these facts of his life may be stated. Born at Ste. Genevi�ve in 1772, he went to
+St. Louis when twenty-one years of age, and entered the fur-trade, marrying (1794)
+Emilie Labbadie, niece of Pierre Chouteau, sr. During the War of 1812-15, he
+was in command of an expedition which proceeded against Fort Madison; later
+was appointed territorial judge, and in Monroe's administration receiver of public
+moneys at St. Louis. He died April 1, 1836, respected by the entire community.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Bernard Pratte, jr., was born in upper Louisiana, December 17, 1803. He
+was sent to Kentucky to be educated, and upon his return embarked in the fur-trade
+with his father. Being particularly interested in navigation, he went on the
+"Yellowstone's" early voyages, in this instance taking command of the "Assiniboine;"
+see his recollections in J. T. Scharf, <i>History of St. Louis</i> (Philadelphia,
+1883), i, p. 675. He was a member of the Missouri assembly in 1838, and mayor
+of St. Louis for two terms (1844-46). In 1850 he retired to a farm near Jonesboro',
+Montgomery County, where he died in 1887.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_242" id="Footnote_242" href="#FNanchor_242"><span class="label">[242]</span></a> This name signifies "the smoker." The French Canadians generally call
+this chief Le Boucan, because smoke has that name among them.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> This Indian was also painted by Catlin. See Smithsonian
+Institution <i>Report</i>, 1885, ii, p. 64.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_243" id="Footnote_243" href="#FNanchor_243"><span class="label">[243]</span></a> The word Passitopa signifies the number "four." This brother of the
+chief is known from the circumstance of his having shot an Indian, who sought
+the life of a white man, who was his friend. Mr. Bodmer drew the portraits of
+the two brothers, which are very like. He has succeeded particularly in that of
+Shudegacheh.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_244" id="Footnote_244" href="#FNanchor_244"><span class="label">[244]</span></a> For this portrait which Maximilian calls "a good resemblance" see Plate
+40, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_245" id="Footnote_245" href="#FNanchor_245"><span class="label">[245]</span></a> For the Ponca, and their present numbers, see our volume v, p. 96, note
+63.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_246" id="Footnote_246" href="#FNanchor_246"><span class="label">[246]</span></a> Now known as Bazile Creek, in Knox County, Nebraska. It flows into the
+Missouri just east of Niobrara. Lewis and Clark called it White Paint Creek.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_247" id="Footnote_247" href="#FNanchor_247"><span class="label">[247]</span></a> See Plate 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_248" id="Footnote_248" href="#FNanchor_248"><span class="label">[248]</span></a> In the portrait referred to in note <a href="#Footnote_242">242</a>, <i>ante</i>, the chief wears this
+medal on his breast. Similar medals were carried by Lewis and Clark; see
+Townsend's <i>Narrative</i>, in our volume xxi, p. 363, note 133.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_249" id="Footnote_249" href="#FNanchor_249"><span class="label">[249]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo269d">269</a> for illustration of Ponca war-club.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_250" id="Footnote_250" href="#FNanchor_250"><span class="label">[250]</span></a> Probably Charles Primeau, a fur-trader in the employ of the American Fur
+Company&mdash;later (1845), setting up in opposition to the company. Consult <i>Larpenteur's
+Journal</i>, i, p. 227.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_251" id="Footnote_251" href="#FNanchor_251"><span class="label">[251]</span></a> See <a href="#illo287">opposite page</a> for illustration of Ponca Indians in buffalo robes.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_252" id="Footnote_252" href="#FNanchor_252"><span class="label">[252]</span></a> The children of the North Americans resemble, in all respects, those of the
+Brazilians; I have mentioned the same circumstance of the Tapuyas of eastern
+Brazil, in the account of my travels in that country.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_253" id="Footnote_253" href="#FNanchor_253"><span class="label">[253]</span></a> For Manuel Lisa, see our volume v, p. 97, note 64. This creek, now called
+Emanuel, is in Bonhomme County, South Dakota, just above Springfield.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_254" id="Footnote_254" href="#FNanchor_254"><span class="label">[254]</span></a> This river rises in the Black Hills, near the sources of Tongue River, and
+discharges itself into the Missouri, about 1,000 miles from its mouth. The mouth
+of this river is said to be 150 paces broad, and its current very rapid. In the
+American descriptions of travels, the French name of this river is generally written
+incorrectly; for instance, "Qui-courre River," &amp;c. It likewise bears the name
+of the Rapid River. Bradbury gives the names of some plants which he gathered
+on its banks.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_255" id="Footnote_255" href="#FNanchor_255"><span class="label">[255]</span></a> Ponca Creek, a small prairie stream, rises in the eastern part of Tripp County,
+South Dakota, and flows east and southeast about parallel to the Niobrara. Lewis
+and Clark speak of mineral springs on the northern bank, but do not mention them
+as warm.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_256" id="Footnote_256" href="#FNanchor_256"><span class="label">[256]</span></a> A conspicuous landmark in Wheeler County, South Dakota, just below Fort
+Randall, at the 969 mile mark from the mouth of the Missouri. Lewis and Clark
+speak of it as the Dome.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_257" id="Footnote_257" href="#FNanchor_257"><span class="label">[257]</span></a> Hugh Glass's adventures with wild beasts and Indians formed a kind of
+frontier epic, and were told around many a camp-fire. All that is known of his
+early life is that he came from Pennsylvania, and was spoken of as "old man
+Glass." He was in the Ankara campaign of 1823, and seriously wounded. Nevertheless
+he set out with Andrew Henry for the Yellowstone, but was nearly killed
+by a grizzly bear, and left to die. He survived, made his way to Fort Kiowa, and
+later joined Henry on the Yellowstone. See Chittenden, <i>Fur-Trade</i>, ii, pp. 698-705.
+For his death, see <i>post</i>, volume xxiv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_258" id="Footnote_258" href="#FNanchor_258"><span class="label">[258]</span></a> Sir George Back (1796-1878), a well-known explorer of arctic North America.
+He entered the navy in 1808, and in 1817 made his first northern journey in
+company with Sir John Franklin. Later he accompanied Franklin on several
+expeditions, being one of his most trusted lieutenants. In 1833 Back organized an
+expedition to search for Sir John Ross; his account of this latter enterprise was
+published as <i>Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition, 1833, 1834, and 1835</i> (London,
+1836). In 1836 Back made a final voyage in the "Terror," whose narrative was
+published in 1838. Upon his return he received many honors, being knighted,
+made rear-admiral (1857), and admiral (1867). Maximilian quotes either from
+his earlier book, or from some of his narratives published with those of Franklin's
+expeditions.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_259" id="Footnote_259" href="#FNanchor_259"><span class="label">[259]</span></a> Little Cedar Island, still so-called, is just above Wheeler, South Dakota,
+about 1010 miles up the river. Maximilian has confused the distance with that
+of an island beyond, upon which Fort Recovery stood, given by Bradbury as 1075
+miles up. See note 261, <i>post</i>, p. 304, and Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, our volume v,
+p. 99, note 66.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_260" id="Footnote_260" href="#FNanchor_260"><span class="label">[260]</span></a> Bijoux Hills are on the east bank of the river, not far below Chamberlain,
+South Dakota. Bijoux was an engag� with Long. See our volume xvi, pp. 58-59.
+Catlin, <i>North American Indians</i>, ii, p. 432, says Bijoux was ultimately killed
+by the Sioux.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_261" id="Footnote_261" href="#FNanchor_261"><span class="label">[261]</span></a> The name Shannon was given to the first creek by Lewis and Clark, for
+one of their men, George Shannon, who here rejoined them after an absence of
+sixteen days, when he had been lost on the prairies. It is now called Dry (or
+Rosebud) Creek, with Rosebud Landing at its mouth.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">White, a South Dakota river, entering the Missouri in Lyman County, from
+the west.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_262" id="Footnote_262" href="#FNanchor_262"><span class="label">[262]</span></a> This is the post usually known as Fort Recovery; see Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>,
+our volume v, p. 99, note 67.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_263" id="Footnote_263" href="#FNanchor_263"><span class="label">[263]</span></a> Fort Lookout had originally been built (about 1822) by the Columbia Fur
+Company, and from them passed into the hands of the American Fur Company.
+Later, the Indian agency was established here, as Maximilian notes. It later
+became a military post where troops were quartered until the building of Fort
+Randall in 1857. The site was some ten miles above Chamberlain, on the west
+bank&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_264" id="Footnote_264" href="#FNanchor_264"><span class="label">[264]</span></a> For the Yankton, see our volume v, p. 90, note 55.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_265" id="Footnote_265" href="#FNanchor_265"><span class="label">[265]</span></a> Maximilian's classification of the Dakota (or Sioux) is in accord with modern
+philological conclusions. J. W. Powell, "Indian Linguistic Families," in United
+States Bureau of Ethnology <i>Report</i>, 1885-86, gives six subdivisions of this great
+tribe&mdash;Santee, Wahpeton, Sisseton, Yankton, Yanktonnai, and Teton; the last
+three, or Missouri, tribes corresponding with those given by Maximilian.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_266" id="Footnote_266" href="#FNanchor_266"><span class="label">[266]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo287b">287</a>, for illustration of method of wearing hair.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_267" id="Footnote_267" href="#FNanchor_267"><span class="label">[267]</span></a> See his portrait, which Maximilian calls "a striking likeness," Plate 41, in
+the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_268" id="Footnote_268" href="#FNanchor_268"><span class="label">[268]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo287c">287</a>, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_269" id="Footnote_269" href="#FNanchor_269"><span class="label">[269]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo319">319</a>, for illustration of Sioux tents.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_270" id="Footnote_270" href="#FNanchor_270"><span class="label">[270]</span></a> See Plate 81, figure 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_271" id="Footnote_271" href="#FNanchor_271"><span class="label">[271]</span></a> Schoolcraft (Expedition of Gov. Cass, p. 323) says, that the Dacotas, on the
+Mississippi, tanned their skins with oak bark, which I did not observe on the Missouri:
+they probably learned it from the Whites. The Aucas, in South America,
+seem to use such an instrument.&mdash;D'Orbigny Voyage, t. ii. p. 234.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_272" id="Footnote_272" href="#FNanchor_272"><span class="label">[272]</span></a> Apparently the creeks took somewhat different courses in the time of Clark's
+visit&mdash;at least Crow, Wolf, and Campbell are now some distance apart in the Crow
+Creek Indian reservation of Buffalo County, South Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_273" id="Footnote_273" href="#FNanchor_273"><span class="label">[273]</span></a> This is a climbing plant, and the leaves are a very nourishing food for horses
+and oxen, which are said to thrive upon it. The root has a bulb, about the size
+of a walnut, with a violet outer skin, and white inside, which is said to be a wholesome
+food for man.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_274" id="Footnote_274" href="#FNanchor_274"><span class="label">[274]</span></a> Clark describes the Big Bend as being from a mile to a mile and a quarter
+at its neck, with a low range of hills running across, from ninety to a hundred and
+eighty feet high. He himself walked across the "gouge;" but the boats were a
+day and a half in passing around.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_275" id="Footnote_275" href="#FNanchor_275"><span class="label">[275]</span></a> Medicine Creek was called by Lewis and Clark Tyler's River. It is a western
+affluent of the Missouri, and the hills mentioned are known as Medicine Butte,
+in Lyman County. The mouth of the creek is the site of the Red Cloud or Lower
+Brul� Indian agency. This creek and hills should be distinguished from Medicine
+Knoll and a creek of that name, eastern affluents a few miles higher up.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_276" id="Footnote_276" href="#FNanchor_276"><span class="label">[276]</span></a> Daniel Lamont, supposed to be of a Scotch family, was one of the original
+members of the Columbia Fur Company, and became one of the three partners
+of the "Upper Missouri Outfit." He was for many years in the fur-trade, but
+little is known of his personal history.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Colonel David D. Mitchell was a Virginian by birth (1806), who early entered
+the fur-trade&mdash;first as a clerk, later as a partner in the American Fur Company.
+In 1832 he built the first fort for that company among the Blackfeet (see our volume
+xxiii), and was for some time in charge at Fort Clark, where Larpenteur speaks
+of him as "very much of a gentleman." In 1841, Mitchell was chosen superintendent
+of Indian affairs for the Western Department, with headquarters at St.
+Louis&mdash;a position which he filled until 1852. Joining the volunteer service for the
+Mexican War, he was chosen lieutenant-colonel of Colonel Sterling Price's regiment,
+and advanced first to New Mexico and later to Chihuahua with Colonel Alexander
+Doniphan. Mitchell died in St. Louis in 1861.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_277" id="Footnote_277" href="#FNanchor_277"><span class="label">[277]</span></a> This island is now known as Fort George (or Airhart's) Island.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_278" id="Footnote_278" href="#FNanchor_278"><span class="label">[278]</span></a> The second Fort Teton was built about 1828; it has been contended by
+several authorities that its site was south of or below Teton River; but in the light
+of Maximilian's testimony, this appears improbable. The first Fort Teton was
+probably that built by Joseph La Framboise in 1817. Maximilian does not state
+that Fort Tecumseh was the successor of Fort Teton, and the predecessor of Fort
+Pierre, although alluding to the former&mdash;see note 278, <i>post</i>. On the entire
+subject see "Fort Pierre and its Neighbors," in <i>South Dakota Historical Collections</i>
+(Aberdeen, 1902), i, pp. 263-379.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_279" id="Footnote_279" href="#FNanchor_279"><span class="label">[279]</span></a> Fort Pierre was built by the American Fur Company in 1831-32 to replace
+Fort Tecumseh, which had begun to be undermined by the river. The site chosen
+was three miles above the mouth of the Teton, about one thousand yards back
+from the river. The post was christened in June, 1832, upon the visit of Pierre
+Chouteau, jr., in whose honor it was named. Fort Pierre continued to be the
+entrep�t of the upper Missouri until 1855, when the company sold the post to the
+United States, then engaged in a campaign against the hostile Sioux. General
+Harney wintered here (1855-56) with one thousand two hundred men. The following
+year (1857), Fort Pierre was abandoned for Fort Randall, a hundred miles
+farther down the river; the old post was demolished, the best of its fittings transferred
+to the new post, and the rest allowed to fall into the hands of the Indians.
+The same year a trader built a new post, also popularly called Fort Pierre, three
+miles above the old one. New Fort Pierre, a company trading post, was built
+in 1859 about two miles above the original stockade. This was abandoned in
+the Sioux outbreak of 1863, and the goods removed to the neighborhood of Fort
+Sully, a government post established on an island below the city of Pierre, South
+Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_280" id="Footnote_280" href="#FNanchor_280"><span class="label">[280]</span></a> Fort Tecumseh was the principal establishment on this part of the river for
+the Columbia Fur Company, being built about 1822. When this concern was
+consolidated with the American Fur Company, the latter made headquarters at
+Fort Tecumseh until the building of the original Fort Pierre (1831-32). Its site
+has been thought, by a misreading of authorities, to have been on the east bank;
+but it was probably only a short distance below old Fort Pierre, on the western
+bank.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_281" id="Footnote_281" href="#FNanchor_281"><span class="label">[281]</span></a> William Laidlaw was a Scotchman who had been trained in the British
+fur companies, and came to the Missouri with the Columbia Fur Company. He
+was for several years the factor of Forts Tecumseh and Pierre, and was then promoted
+to the charge of Fort Union, where he was as late as 1845&mdash;probably for
+some time after. When he finally retired, it was to settle near Liberty, Missouri,
+where he died a poor man. He was an able trader, but of quick, irascible temper,
+and unpopular with his subordinates.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_282" id="Footnote_282" href="#FNanchor_282"><span class="label">[282]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo319b">319</a>, for plan of Fort Pierre.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_283" id="Footnote_283" href="#FNanchor_283"><span class="label">[283]</span></a> For Pierre Dorion, see our volume v, p. 38, note 7. Although Maximilian
+speaks of him as "old Dorion," it is probable that this was another son of Pierre,
+sr.; for Pierre, jr., was a grown man at the time of the Lewis and Clark expedition,
+and his father was a Frenchman, not a half-breed.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_284" id="Footnote_284" href="#FNanchor_284"><span class="label">[284]</span></a> See the portrait of the Dakota woman, Plate 42, in the accompanying atlas,
+our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_285" id="Footnote_285" href="#FNanchor_285"><span class="label">[285]</span></a> The red pipe-clay is found chiefly on a lateral stream of the Big Sioux River,
+but also in other places, for instance, on St. Peter's River; and it is said, that the
+several Indian tribes behave peaceably towards each other while they are digging
+up the stone in that place, but again treat each other as enemies as soon as they
+have left it. Persons who have visited the quarries on the Big Sioux River have
+given me the following description of them: the red stone occurs in large beds or
+strata, where the perpendicular sides of the stream show divers alternating layers.
+The strata of red stone, which are at the most a foot thick, alternate with yellow,
+blue, white, and other kinds of clay. The green turf on the surface, and the upper
+stratum, are removed, and the red-brown colour of the stone is generally more
+lively and beautiful the deeper you go down. It is possible to obtain large pieces,
+and to make beautiful slabs of them. The Indians make not only pipe-heads of
+this stone, but likewise war-clubs, which, however, are only carried in their hands
+for show.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> The first white person to visit the Pipestone quarries in
+southwest Minnesota was the artist George Catlin, who in 1836 obtained permission
+from the Indians to inspect this sacred spot. The mineral has since been called
+"catlinite," from his name. There are, however, other quarries in Dakota, Wisconsin,
+and Minnesota.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_286" id="Footnote_286" href="#FNanchor_286"><span class="label">[286]</span></a> See Plate 81, figure 12, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv, for a
+figure of a Dakota pipe; also illustration on opposite <a href="#illo323">page</a> of Dakota pipes.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_287" id="Footnote_287" href="#FNanchor_287"><span class="label">[287]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo323d">323</a>, for illustration of a Dakota with plaited hair.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_288" id="Footnote_288" href="#FNanchor_288"><span class="label">[288]</span></a> See Plate 81, figure 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_289" id="Footnote_289" href="#FNanchor_289"><span class="label">[289]</span></a> For the Teton, see our volume v, p. 104, note 71. The Teton bands (as
+at present classified) are the Brul�, Sans Arcs, Blackfeet (not to be confused
+with the Blackfoot tribe of Algonquian origin), Miniconjou, Two Kettle, Oglala,
+and Hunkpapa. The Yankton bands are not classified by Powell.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_290" id="Footnote_290" href="#FNanchor_290"><span class="label">[290]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo287b">287</a>, for illustration of method of wearing hair.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_291" id="Footnote_291" href="#FNanchor_291"><span class="label">[291]</span></a> See Plate 30, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv, for an Indian
+horse-race.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_292" id="Footnote_292" href="#FNanchor_292"><span class="label">[292]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo323c">323</a>, for illustration of this Teton.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_293" id="Footnote_293" href="#FNanchor_293"><span class="label">[293]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo323b">323</a>, for illustration of hill of baked clay.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_294" id="Footnote_294" href="#FNanchor_294"><span class="label">[294]</span></a> Called "No Timber Creek," by Lewis and Clark. It is now Chantier in
+Stanley County, a term clipped from its Siouan name.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_295" id="Footnote_295" href="#FNanchor_295"><span class="label">[295]</span></a> For the Cheyenne River see our volume v, p. 126, note 81. Cheyenne
+Island, about three miles long, below the river's embouchment, was called "Pania"
+by Lewis and Clark. They note also an old Arikara village, of which only a circular
+wall remained.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_296" id="Footnote_296" href="#FNanchor_296"><span class="label">[296]</span></a> For the Cheyenne, see our volume v, p. 140, note 88. Their migration was
+from the northeast, the habitat of the Algonquian stock.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_297" id="Footnote_297" href="#FNanchor_297"><span class="label">[297]</span></a> Coues, in his edition of Biddle's Lewis and Clark, identifies the island called
+"Caution" by the explorers, as the present Plum Island. The Little Cheyenne
+is a prairie stream coming into the Mission from the northeast, in Potter County,
+South Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_298" id="Footnote_298" href="#FNanchor_298"><span class="label">[298]</span></a> Called Beaver (or Otter) Creek by Lewis and Clark; probably the present
+Swan Creek, in Walworth County, with the town of Lebeau at its mouth.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_299" id="Footnote_299" href="#FNanchor_299"><span class="label">[299]</span></a> For this stream, see our volume v, p. 127, note 82.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_300" id="Footnote_300" href="#FNanchor_300"><span class="label">[300]</span></a> For these rivers, see our volume v, p. 127, note 83.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_301" id="Footnote_301" href="#FNanchor_301"><span class="label">[301]</span></a> In Lewis and Clark's time there were three Arikara villages on the Missouri.
+The lower village on the island, headed by the chief Kakawissassa, had
+been abandoned by 1811. See Bradbury's <i>Travels</i>, our volume v, p. 127.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_302" id="Footnote_302" href="#FNanchor_302"><span class="label">[302]</span></a> A party returning from Santa F� in the winter of 1832-33, was attacked
+January 1, on the Canadian River, lost all of their property, and had one man
+killed. The Arikara apparently never reoccupied their village permanently.
+Audubon found them in 1843 in one village with the Mandan, where they lived
+until removed to Fort Berthold reservation.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_303" id="Footnote_303" href="#FNanchor_303"><span class="label">[303]</span></a> Known to the traders as "Old Star" present at Fort Clark in 1847; see
+<i>Larpenteur's Journal</i>, ii, p. 246.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_304" id="Footnote_304" href="#FNanchor_304"><span class="label">[304]</span></a> For the Arikara and Lisa see our volume v, p. 113, note 76, and p. 97, note
+64, respectively. Fort Manuel, Lisa's post, erected in 1800, was near the Arikara
+villages, the site not being definitely determined.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_305" id="Footnote_305" href="#FNanchor_305"><span class="label">[305]</span></a> These are now called Cheyenne Hills. Lewis and Clark speak of one with
+a top resembling the slanting roof of a house.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_306" id="Footnote_306" href="#FNanchor_306"><span class="label">[306]</span></a> Lewis and Clark give this as Warraconne (Elk shed their horns) Creek; now
+Beaver (or Sand) Creek, in Emmons County, North Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_307" id="Footnote_307" href="#FNanchor_307"><span class="label">[307]</span></a> On a careful investigation, I have not been able to discover from what source
+Lewis and Clarke procured a part of their singular denominations for the affluents
+of the Missouri; for, in the languages of the neighbouring Indian nations, they
+have entirely different names.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_308" id="Footnote_308" href="#FNanchor_308"><span class="label">[308]</span></a> The French form for this river was Le Boulet. It rises somewhat north of
+the Black Hills, flows east in two branches across North Dakota, and empties into
+the Missouri in Morton County.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_309" id="Footnote_309" href="#FNanchor_309"><span class="label">[309]</span></a> For a brief sketch of the Mandan, see our volume v, pp. 113, 114, note 76.
+Maximilian is a chief authority for the customs of this interesting tribe. See our
+volume xxiii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_310" id="Footnote_310" href="#FNanchor_310"><span class="label">[310]</span></a> Alexander Harvey was a clerk of the American Fur Company. Born and
+reared in St. Louis, he quarrelled with his first employers while still a minor, and
+ran away to join the fur company. He was for several years at Fort McKenzie,
+and one of the participants in the Blackfoot massacre of 1843-44. Harvey was a
+bold and desperate character, and tales of his atrocities are narrated by Larpenteur,
+a fellow employ�. In 1845 he left the company's employ, and organized
+a rival concern, of which he was head. He was living at Fort Yates as late as
+1896.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_311" id="Footnote_311" href="#FNanchor_311"><span class="label">[311]</span></a> The black-tailed or mule deer of the Americans (<i>Cervus macrotis</i>, Say), has
+been described, by later zoologists, from an imperfect skin; I will, therefore, give
+an imperfect description from nature. It is larger than the Virginian deer, not
+so light, has a larger hoof, much longer ears, and does not run so swiftly&mdash;not
+quicker than a buffalo cow. It casts its horns in March, and throws off the rough
+skin of them in August. They have, generally, only one young one&mdash;sometimes
+two; they are marked with white spots, on a pale yellowish-red ground. One of
+these animals, of three or four years old, in shape nearly resembled the Virginian
+deer; the hair of the body was hard and scanty; the whole of a pale yellowish-red;
+the breast greyish-brown, and, on the belly, yellowish-white. In winter, the colour
+nearly resembles that of our deer in the same season. Each of the horns of this
+deer had four antlers, nearly as in <i>Cervus elaphus</i>. Woodcut B represents the horns
+of a large deer of this species.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> See p. <a href="#illo347">347</a>, for illustration of antlers of deer.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_312" id="Footnote_312" href="#FNanchor_312"><span class="label">[312]</span></a> Marked on Lewis and Clark's map as Shepherd River; it is now Apple
+Creek, flowing from the east in Bismarck County, North Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_313" id="Footnote_313" href="#FNanchor_313"><span class="label">[313]</span></a> For Heart River, see our volume v, p. 148, note 91.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_314" id="Footnote_314" href="#FNanchor_314"><span class="label">[314]</span></a> On the west bank; Square Butte Creek takes its name therefrom.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_315" id="Footnote_315" href="#FNanchor_315"><span class="label">[315]</span></a> Lewis and Clark here met a party of Mandan on a hunting excursion. This
+creek has not been certainly identified, the river's bed having changed in the vicinity.
+It is probably Deer Creek, in Oliver County.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_316" id="Footnote_316" href="#FNanchor_316"><span class="label">[316]</span></a> Old Mandan villages had been scattered all along this reach of the river,
+Lewis and Clark noting the first remains below Heart River.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_317" id="Footnote_317" href="#FNanchor_317"><span class="label">[317]</span></a> The Cheyenne River of North Dakota&mdash;not to be confused with the Missour
+affluent in South Dakota&mdash;is the largest western tributary of Red River of the
+North. Devil's Lake, a large body of fresh water in Halsey County, was a favorite
+habitat of the Sioux. South of it is now an Indian reservation, chiefly for Sisseton
+and Wahpeton Sioux. St. Peter's River is the present Minnesota; its source is
+in Big Stone Lake, on the boundary of Minnesota and South Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_318" id="Footnote_318" href="#FNanchor_318"><span class="label">[318]</span></a> Lewis and Clark called the first Mandan village Ma-too-ton-ka. This was
+in a wooded bend, three miles below the site of Fort Clark.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_319" id="Footnote_319" href="#FNanchor_319"><span class="label">[319]</span></a> Fort Clark, named in honor of General William Clark, was built in 1831
+as the American Fur Company's post among the Mandan. An earlier post near
+by, had been the company's home since 1822. Fort Clark was second in importance
+only to Forts Union and Pierre. A trusted employ� was kept as chief factor,
+and the post was maintained until the close of the fur-trading era. Its site was eight
+miles below the mouth of Big Knife River, on the west bank, some eighty or ninety
+paces back from the river, and about three-quarters of a mile lower down and on
+the opposite side of the river from Fort Mandan, Lewis and Clark's wintering
+place (1804-05).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_320" id="Footnote_320" href="#FNanchor_320"><span class="label">[320]</span></a> The Wolf chief, called by the French traders Chef de Loup, and by Catlin
+Ha-na-ta-nu-mauk, was head chief of the nation. Of an austere and haughty
+nature, he was feared rather than beloved by the tribe, whose idol was Four Bears,
+the second chief. Bodmer painted this chief in two ways (see Plates 46 and 47,
+in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv). Catlin also secured his likeness both
+in full dress and in mourning. Catlin describes in detail a buffalo robe covered
+with paintings representing his exploits; see Catlin, <i>North American Indians</i>, i,
+pp. 145-154.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_321" id="Footnote_321" href="#FNanchor_321"><span class="label">[321]</span></a> James Kipp was born in Canada in 1788. When about twenty years of
+age he entered the fur-trade, as hunter and trapper in the Red River region. By
+1818 he was on the upper Missouri, and became the agent of the Columbia Fur
+Company at its Mandan post. Later, he became a trusted employ� of the American
+Fur Company, building Fort Piegan among the Blackfeet (1831). For many
+years he was chief factor at Fort Clark, transferring (1835) to Fort McKenzie.
+Audubon found him in charge of Fort Alexander, on the Yellowstone, in 1843,
+and two years later he was entrusted with the important post at Fort Union. He
+retired from the fur-trade in 1865, and settled upon his Missouri farm, which he
+had acquired many years before. As late as 1876 he once more visited the Mandan,
+whose language he was said to have been the first white man to master.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_322" id="Footnote_322" href="#FNanchor_322"><span class="label">[322]</span></a> For Toussaint Charbonneau, see Brackenridge's <i>Journal</i>, in our volume vi,
+p. 32, note 3.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_323" id="Footnote_323" href="#FNanchor_323"><span class="label">[323]</span></a> For the Crow Indians, see our volume v, p. 226, note 121.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_324" id="Footnote_324" href="#FNanchor_324"><span class="label">[324]</span></a> See Plate 13, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_325" id="Footnote_325" href="#FNanchor_325"><span class="label">[325]</span></a> See Plate 49, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_326" id="Footnote_326" href="#FNanchor_326"><span class="label">[326]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo347b">347</a>, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_327" id="Footnote_327" href="#FNanchor_327"><span class="label">[327]</span></a> For the traditions of the first man, Nu-mohk-muck-a-nah, consult Catlin,
+<i>North American Indians</i>, i, pp. 178-181.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_328" id="Footnote_328" href="#FNanchor_328"><span class="label">[328]</span></a> For the Minitaree, see our volume v, pp. 113, 114, note 76. An extended
+account is given by Washington Matthews, "Ethnography and Philology of the
+Hidatsa Indians," in United States Geological and Geographical Survey of the
+Territories, <i>Miscellaneous Publications</i>, No. 7 (Washington, 1877). Maximilian
+classes with the Minitaree villages that of the Ahnahaway, or Gens des Souliers,
+also called Wetersoon, whom Lewis and Clark considered a separate though
+allied tribe.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_329" id="Footnote_329" href="#FNanchor_329"><span class="label">[329]</span></a> See Plate 81, figures 5 and 6, in the accompanying atlas, volume xxv of
+our series.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_330" id="Footnote_330" href="#FNanchor_330"><span class="label">[330]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i>, figure 10.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_331" id="Footnote_331" href="#FNanchor_331"><span class="label">[331]</span></a> Catlin says that Long Hair was the head chief of the tribe, having received
+his office from the circumstance of having the longest hair in the tribe. Campbell
+and Sublette stated that they had lived in his lodge and examined his hair, which
+measured ten feet and seven inches of natural growth.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_332" id="Footnote_332" href="#FNanchor_332"><span class="label">[332]</span></a> Fort Cass was built by the American Fur Company in the autumn of 1832,
+on the right bank of the Yellowstone, two or three miles below the mouth of the
+Bighorn. It was intended for the Crow trade, and frequently was called Tulloch's
+fort from its founder, a company employ�. Wyeth, on his famous voyage, passed
+this fort in a bull-boat, August 18, 1833. See Irving, <i>Rocky Mountains</i>, ii, pp.
+159-161. About 1838 Fort Cass was abandoned in favor of Fort Van Buren
+farther down the Yellowstone.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_333" id="Footnote_333" href="#FNanchor_333"><span class="label">[333]</span></a> The bardaches will be spoken of when we are treating of the customs of
+the Mandans.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_334" id="Footnote_334" href="#FNanchor_334"><span class="label">[334]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo347b">347</a>, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_335" id="Footnote_335" href="#FNanchor_335"><span class="label">[335]</span></a> Knife River, called by the French Rivi�re de Couteau, and by the Indians
+Minah Wakpa, is a prairie stream, whose course is in general east, entering the
+Missouri in Mercer County, North Dakota. The town of Stanton is now on the
+site of the third village, Awachawi&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_336" id="Footnote_336" href="#FNanchor_336"><span class="label">[336]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo361">361</a>, for illustration of a Blackfoot musical instrument.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_337" id="Footnote_337" href="#FNanchor_337"><span class="label">[337]</span></a> This fort of Pilcher, built for the Missouri Fur Company about 1822, was
+about eleven miles above the mouth of Knife River, and named Fort Vanderburgh.
+Not proving profitable, it was maintained but a short time. See another mention
+in our volume xxiii, chapter xxiii.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_338" id="Footnote_338" href="#FNanchor_338"><span class="label">[338]</span></a> See article by O. D. Wheeler, in <i>Wonderland</i> (1904), on the recent development
+of the lignite coal area of North Dakota.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_339" id="Footnote_339" href="#FNanchor_339"><span class="label">[339]</span></a> It was a custom of the Minitaree, maintained until 1866, to leave their permanent
+village each winter for a spot where fuel was convenient, and there build
+log-cabins, very warm and secure, as winter quarters. They thus preserved both
+the fuel supply, and the game in the neighborhood of their summer home.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_340" id="Footnote_340" href="#FNanchor_340"><span class="label">[340]</span></a> Miry Creek appears to be the present Snake Creek, in McLean County,
+North Dakota, the one which Maximilian designates as Snake being a small run
+from a cliff which was known as Snake den. See <i>Original Journals of the Lewis
+and Clark Expedition</i>, i, p. 291.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_341" id="Footnote_341" href="#FNanchor_341"><span class="label">[341]</span></a> See description of bear-dance, with illustration, in Catlin, <i>North American
+Indians</i>, i, pp. 242-245.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_342" id="Footnote_342" href="#FNanchor_342"><span class="label">[342]</span></a> These stones are generally granite, not sharp, but rounded in front; are used
+by the Indians to break the large bones of the buffaloes, of the marrow of which
+they are very fond. Stones closely resembling these are found among the Blackfoot
+Indians.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_343" id="Footnote_343" href="#FNanchor_343"><span class="label">[343]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo361b">361</a>, for illustration of a stone battle-axe.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_344" id="Footnote_344" href="#FNanchor_344"><span class="label">[344]</span></a> The Little Missouri is the most important North Dakota affluent of the
+Missouri, above the Cannonball. It rises on the northwestern slopes of the Black
+Hills and flows north for some distance, thence turning northeast and east to enter
+the main river in Williams County. It is a broad but shallow stream, impregnated
+with alkali.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_345" id="Footnote_345" href="#FNanchor_345"><span class="label">[345]</span></a> Wild Onion Creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because of the quantity
+of that plant growing upon its bordering plains. Within Garfield County, North
+Dakota, it is now denominated Pride Creek.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_346" id="Footnote_346" href="#FNanchor_346"><span class="label">[346]</span></a> Goose Egg Lake, so named by the explorers "from the circumstance of my
+[Clark] shooting a goose on her nest on some sticks in the top of a high cotton
+wood tree in which there was one egg," is now Cold Spring Lake (<i>Original Journals
+of the Lewis and Clark Expedition</i>, i, pp. 304, 305). The great bend (Grand Detour)
+is still so named, but is much wider than the lower bend, being nearly ten
+miles across, and over twenty around the curve.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_347" id="Footnote_347" href="#FNanchor_347"><span class="label">[347]</span></a> Coues, <i>Lewis and Clark Expedition</i>, i, p. 274, identifies Goat Pen Creek
+with Upper Knife River. Maximilian's identification of this stream as the present
+White Earth River appears to accord better with the <i>Original Journals</i> (i,
+p. 313). The White Earth rises in Coteau des Prairies, and flows directly south
+into the Missouri. Lewis and Clark applied the name to a river farther up, near
+the forks of the Yellowstone. See note 348, <i>post</i>, p. 372.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_348" id="Footnote_348" href="#FNanchor_348"><span class="label">[348]</span></a> For the Assiniboin see our volume ii, p. 168, note 75. They separated from
+the Wazikute gens of the Yanktonnai Sioux before the middle of the seventeenth
+century. The Dakota stigmatize them as "Hohe" (rebels). Lewis and Clark
+name three bands of these people, of whom they heard along the Missouri&mdash;Gens
+de Canoe, Gens des Filles, and Gens des Grand Diables. The Gens des Filles
+(girl band) was composed of about sixty tents, its head chief being Les Yeux Gris
+(Grey Eyes). See United States Bureau of Ethnology <i>Report</i>, 1894-95, p. 223.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_349" id="Footnote_349" href="#FNanchor_349"><span class="label">[349]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo287c">287</a>, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_350" id="Footnote_350" href="#FNanchor_350"><span class="label">[350]</span></a> The White Earth River of Lewis and Clark, now Muddy River, is a northern
+affluent of the Missouri, taking its name from the mud by which its mouth is choked.
+Above the mouth it is a clear and partly navigable stream, flowing through a
+valley nearly five miles wide, fertile although treeless. It enters the Missouri in
+Buford County, having the town of Williston at its mouth.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_351" id="Footnote_351" href="#FNanchor_351"><span class="label">[351]</span></a> Fort Union was the most important post of the American Fur Company on
+the upper Missouri. It was commenced in the autumn of 1828 (Maximilian says
+1829), being at first known as Fort Floyd&mdash;another Fort Union existing higher up
+the river, which was abandoned, and the property transferred to the fort at the
+mouth of the Yellowstone. The actual site was five miles above the meeting of
+the rivers, on the north bank of the Missouri; see <i>Larpenteur's Journal</i>, i, pp. 50,
+68. The fort was injured by fire in 1832, but substantially rebuilt, Wyeth (1833)
+pronouncing it superior to the Oregon forts of the British companies. Maintained
+until 1867, it was finally abandoned, part of its effects being transferred to the
+government post Fort Buford, some miles below.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_352" id="Footnote_352" href="#FNanchor_352"><span class="label">[352]</span></a> Our knowledge of Hamilton is chiefly derived from the pages of Larpenteur,
+who says that the former was an English nobleman, whose real name was Archibald
+Palmer. Having become involved in some difficulties, he assumed the name
+James Archdale Hamilton, and having formed acquaintance with Kenneth McKenzie
+was sent by the latter as book-keeper to Fort Union, where he took full
+command during McKenzie's frequent absences. Hamilton was at this time about
+fifty years of age, punctilious in manner, particular in dress, and both respected
+and feared by his subordinates. Later he reverted to his own name and returned
+to St. Louis, becoming cashier for the American Fur Company, and dying in that
+city.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_353" id="Footnote_353" href="#FNanchor_353"><span class="label">[353]</span></a> The French form for the name of this great river (Roche Jaune) was in
+early use; Chittenden (<i>Yellowstone National Park</i> (Cincinnati, 1895), pp. 1-7)
+thinks it a translation of the Indian term, derived from the predominant color of
+Yellowstone Ca�on. The first use of the English form appears to be in the writings
+of David Thompson, the English explorer (1798). See Elliott Coues, <i>New
+Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest</i> (New York, 1897), i, p. 302.
+The Crow Indians had a name for this stream, signifying "Elk."</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">The reference is to D. B. Warden, <i>Statistical, Political, and Historical Account
+of the United States of North America</i> (Edinburgh, 1819), i, p. 93.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_354" id="Footnote_354" href="#FNanchor_354"><span class="label">[354]</span></a> For a view of this fort see Plate 61, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_355" id="Footnote_355" href="#FNanchor_355"><span class="label">[355]</span></a> This is the distance by water; on horseback, the journey has been accomplished
+in ten days.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_356" id="Footnote_356" href="#FNanchor_356"><span class="label">[356]</span></a> On this subject see "Astoria," and "Adventures of Captain Bonneville,"
+also "Ross Cox's Adventures on the Columbia River," p. 198. The dress of the
+white agents of the Company is made of cloth, like our own; but the hunters often
+wear a leather dress, ornamented, for the most part, in the Indian fashion, while
+the common <i>engag�s</i> wear white blanket coats, such as I have described when
+speaking of the inhabitants of Indiana, on the Wabash. They are mostly shod
+in Indian mocassins, a dozen pair of which may be purchased from the Indian
+women for one dollar, when they are not ornamented. The hunters, here, maintain
+that these Indian shoes are better adapted to the prairies than our European
+ones, as they do not become so slippery. They are frequently soled with elk hide,
+or parchment. The worst is, that they are easily penetrated by the prickles of
+the cactus, and on this account we greatly preferred our European shoes. At Fort
+Union, artisans of almost every description are to be met with, such as smiths,
+masons, carpenters, joiners, coopers, tailors, shoemakers, hatters, &amp;c.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_357" id="Footnote_357" href="#FNanchor_357"><span class="label">[357]</span></a> Some idea may be formed of the enormous quantity of beavers killed every
+year, from the circumstance that the Hudson's Bay Company sends to London
+alone 50,000, this animal being found as far as the coasts of the Frozen Ocean.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_358" id="Footnote_358" href="#FNanchor_358"><span class="label">[358]</span></a> At Rock River, which falls into the Mississippi, the Indians caught, in 1825,
+about 130,000 musk-rats; in the following year, about half the number; and, in
+about two years after, these animals were scarcely to be met with. Previous to
+this time, an Indian caught, in thirty days, as many as 1,600 of them. In South
+America, there is only one species of wild animal, known to me, whose skins are
+collected in large quantities. According to D'Orbigny, in the first six months of
+1828, above 150,000 dozen Quiyaa were sold, in Corrientes, at from fifteen to
+eighteen francs the dozen. The Indians hunt this animal, which lives in the
+morasses, with dogs, and shoot it with arrows.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_359" id="Footnote_359" href="#FNanchor_359"><span class="label">[359]</span></a> See Plate 62, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_360" id="Footnote_360" href="#FNanchor_360"><span class="label">[360]</span></a> See Plate 15, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_361" id="Footnote_361" href="#FNanchor_361"><span class="label">[361]</span></a> Unfortunately, all these interesting specimens were destroyed in the fire
+on board the steam-boat.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> Reference is made to the burning of the "Assiniboine."
+See note 179, <i>ante</i>, p. 240.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_362" id="Footnote_362" href="#FNanchor_362"><span class="label">[362]</span></a> William Keating, <i>Narrative of an Expedition to the source of St. Peter's
+River, performed in the year 1823, under command of Stephen H. Long</i> (Philadelphia,
+1824).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_363" id="Footnote_363" href="#FNanchor_363"><span class="label">[363]</span></a> Sir John Franklin, <i>Narrative of a Journey to the shores of the Polar Sea in
+the years 1819, 1820, 1821, and 1822</i> (London, 1823), p. 104.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_364" id="Footnote_364" href="#FNanchor_364"><span class="label">[364]</span></a> Fort des Prairies was at different periods applied to various Hudson's Bay
+Company posts. Apparently this was the fort on the site of Edmonton, for which
+see Franch�re's <i>Narrative</i>, in our volume vi, p. 364, note 177.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_365" id="Footnote_365" href="#FNanchor_365"><span class="label">[365]</span></a> The word <i>osayes</i> is one of the many Canadian terms which are mixed with
+the French of that country, and means bones.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_366" id="Footnote_366" href="#FNanchor_366"><span class="label">[366]</span></a> Consult on the bands or gentes of the Assiniboin, J. O. Dorsey, "Siouan
+Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology <i>Report</i>, 1893-94, pp. 222, 223.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_367" id="Footnote_367" href="#FNanchor_367"><span class="label">[367]</span></a> The common Mackinaw guns, which the Fur Company obtain from England
+at the rate of eight dollars a-piece, and which are sold to the Indians for the
+value of thirty dollars.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_368" id="Footnote_368" href="#FNanchor_368"><span class="label">[368]</span></a> <i>Op. cit.</i> in note 361, [<i>ante</i>] p. 112.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_369" id="Footnote_369" href="#FNanchor_369"><span class="label">[369]</span></a> The reference is to Edwin James (editor) <i>Narrative of Captivity and Adventures
+during thirty years' residence among the Indians in the interior of North
+America by John Tanner</i> (New York, 1830). John Tanner, a boy of nine years,
+was captured in Kentucky about 1790. He passed the larger part of his life in
+the northern woods. In 1818 he sought his relatives in Kentucky while his brother
+Edward was searching for him near Mackinac. For some years he was employed
+as interpreter at Sault Ste. Marie, but having become an Indian in habit he shot
+(1836) and killed James L. Schoolcraft and fled to the wilderness where he died
+about 1847 (but see <i>Minnesota Historical Collections</i>, vi, p. 114). His <i>Narrative</i>
+was much quoted by contemporary writers.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_370" id="Footnote_370" href="#FNanchor_370"><span class="label">[370]</span></a> See p. <a href="#illo361c">361</a>, for illustration of Assiniboin pipes.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_371" id="Footnote_371" href="#FNanchor_371"><span class="label">[371]</span></a> The Indians on the Upper Missouri have another kind of tobacco pipe,
+the bowl of which is in the same line as the tube, and which they use only on their
+warlike expeditions. As the aperture of the pipe is more inclined downwards than
+usual, the fire can never be seen, so as to betray the smoker, who lies on the ground,
+and holds the pipe on one side.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Maximilian.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><i>Comment by Ed.</i> See p. <a href="#illo361d">361</a>, for illustration of pipe for warlike expeditions.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_372" id="Footnote_372" href="#FNanchor_372"><span class="label">[372]</span></a> See Plate 81, figure 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels in the Interior of North America,
+Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843), by Alexander
+Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied, Edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites,
+Translated by Hannibal Evans Lloyd, Illustrated by Karl Bodmer
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels in the Interior of North America, Part I, (Being Chapters I-XV of the London Edition, 1843)
+       Early Western Travels, 1748-1846, Volume XXII
+
+
+Author: Alexander Philipp Maximilian, Prince of Wied
+
+Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012  [eBook #38784]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH
+AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Greg Bergquist, Melissa McDaniel, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images
+generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries
+(http://www.archive.org/details/americana)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 38784-h.htm or 38784-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38784/38784-h/38784-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38784/38784-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/earlywesterntrav22thwa
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      This book's editors sought to "reproduce the old text as
+      closely as practicable, with its typographic and orthographic
+      peculiarities." The transcriber has honored that intent.
+
+      The pagination of the original journal edition here reprinted
+      is indicated by enclosing, within brackets, the number of the
+      page at its beginning, e.g. [pg. 24].
+
+      Unnumbered illustration pages have been moved to the closest
+      reference in the text.
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). Text
+      enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+Early Western Travels
+1748-1846
+Volume XXII
+
+Early Western Travels
+1748-1846
+
+A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best and rarest
+contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive of the Aborigines and
+Social and Economic Conditions in the Middle and Far West, during
+the Period of Early American Settlement
+
+Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by
+Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D.
+
+Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's
+New Discovery," etc.
+
+Volume XXII
+
+PART I OF MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED'S, TRAVELS IN THE
+INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, 1832-1834
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Cleveland, Ohio
+The Arthur H. Clark Company
+1906
+
+Copyright 1906, by
+The Arthur H. Clark Company
+
+All Rights Reserved
+
+The Lakeside Press
+R. R. Donnelley & Sons Company
+Chicago
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXII
+
+
+  PREFACE TO VOLUMES XXII-XXIV. _The Editor_                      9
+
+  TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA. [Part I,
+    being chapters i-xv of the London edition, 1843.]
+    _Maximilian, Prince of Wied._ Translated from the
+    German by _Hannibal Evans Lloyd_
+
+      Author's Preface                                           25
+
+      Translator's Preface                                       31
+
+      Text:
+
+        CHAPTER I--Voyage to Boston, Stay in
+          that City, and Journey to New York,
+          from May 17th to July 9th, 1832                        37
+
+        CHAPTER II--Stay in New York, Philadelphia,
+          and Bordentown, from the 9th
+          to the 16th of July                                    57
+
+        CHAPTER III--Residence at Freiburg and
+          Bethlehem in Pennsylvania, from July
+          30th to August 23rd                                    72
+
+        CHAPTER IV--Journey to the Pokono,
+          and through the Blue Mountains to
+          Mauch Chunk, in the Coal District,
+          from the 23rd to the 30th of August                    87
+
+        CHAPTER V--Description of Mauch Chunk
+          and its Coal Mines--Journey through
+          the Lehigh Valley to Bethlehem, and
+          last Residence in that Town, from
+          August 31st to September 16th                         119
+
+        CHAPTER VI--Journey from Bethlehem
+          to Pittsburg, over the Alleghanys, from
+          September 17th to October 7th                         128
+
+        CHAPTER VII--Journey from Pittsburg to
+          New Harmony, on the Wabash, from
+          the 8th to the 19th of October                        144
+
+        CHAPTER VIII--Description of the Country
+          about New Harmony, in Indiana,
+          and Winter Residence there from
+          October 19th, 1832, to March 16th, 1833               163
+
+        CHAPTER IX--Journey from New Harmony
+          to St. Louis on the Mississippi,
+          and our Stay there, from March 16th
+          to April 9th                                          198
+
+        CHAPTER X--Journey from St. Louis to
+          the Cantonment of Leavenworth, or
+          to the Borders of the Settlement, from
+          the 10th to the 22nd of April                         237
+
+        CHAPTER XI--Journey from the Cantonment
+          of Leavenworth to the Punca Indians,
+          from April 22nd to May 12th                           255
+
+        CHAPTER XII--Voyage from L'Eau qui
+          Court to Fort Pierre, on the Teton
+          River (the Little Missouri), and Stay
+          there, from May 13th to June 4th                      291
+
+        CHAPTER XIII--Voyage from Fort Pierre,
+          on the Teton River, to Fort
+          Clarke, near the Villages of the Mandans,
+          from the 5th to the 19th of June                      330
+
+        CHAPTER XIV--Voyage from Fort Clarke
+          to Fort Union, near the Mouth of the
+          Yellow Stone River, from the 19th to
+          the 24th of June                                      356
+
+        CHAPTER XV--Description of Fort Union
+          and its Neighbourhood                                 375
+
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XXII
+
+
+     Facsimile of title-page to Maximilian's _Travels_           23
+
+       (The following are text cuts in original)
+
+     Bear-trap                                                  107
+
+     Indian pipes                                               175
+
+     Neck-yoke and plow                                         175
+
+     Formations of limestone rocks                              213
+
+     Omaha Indians                                              269
+
+     An Omaha boy                                               269
+
+     Omaha war club                                             269
+
+     Punca war club                                             269
+
+     Punca Indians in buffalo robes                             287
+
+     Method of wearing hair                                     287
+
+     Bows, arrows, and quiver                                   287
+
+     Tents of the Sioux                                         319
+
+     Plan of Fort Pierre                                        319
+
+     Dakota pipes                                               323
+
+     A Dakota, with plaited hair                                323
+
+     A Teton                                                    323
+
+     Hill of baked clay                                         323
+
+     Antlers of deer                                            347
+
+     Sioux burial stages                                        347
+
+     A Blackfoot musical instrument                             361
+
+     Stone battle-axe                                           361
+
+     Assiniboin pipes                                           361
+
+     Pipe for warlike expeditions                               361
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO VOLUMES XXII-XXIV
+
+
+Early trans-Mississippi exploration was undertaken largely in the
+interests of science. The great expedition of Lewis and Clark
+(1804-06) was, both in conception and plan, a scientific excursion.
+Bradbury and Brackenridge voyaged up the Missouri (1811) in search of
+rare plants and animals, Nuttall sought the Arkansas (1819) on a
+similar errand. Long's expedition (1819-20) was entirely scientific,
+both in organization and objects; while Townsend crossed the continent
+with Nathaniel Wyeth (1834) to secure a harvest of rare birds in the
+mountains and beyond. In the early nineteenth century, scientific
+collection was the chief object of ambition among thoughtful
+explorers--to secure for the world a complete catalogue of its plants
+and animals was worth much toil and hardship, heroic endeavor, and
+mighty daring. To such, the still unknown regions of the New World
+offered strong attractions. There were in the trans-Mississippi and in
+South America, spread out upon mountains and prairies and bordering
+far-flowing streams, fresh races of barbarians yet uncontaminated by
+civilized contact, beasts of prey, birds of brilliant plumage, and
+unknown plant species.
+
+Among those to whom this call of the New World came clearly, was a
+German savant, prince of a small house in Rhenish Prussia. Even while
+upon Napoleonic battle-fields, he felt a desire for the wilderness,
+and news of the victory of Waterloo reached him upon the far-distant
+rivers of Brazil. His later journey to North America was but the
+completion of a purpose formed in early boyhood. Alexander Philip
+Maximilian, Prince of Wied-Neuwied, was born in the quaint capital of
+his little Rhenish sovereignty in September, 1782. The eighth child of
+the reigning Friedrich Karl, natural aptitude for study early marked
+his career for that of a scholar. Nevertheless, in obedience to the
+call of patriotism, he entered the Prussian army and was present at
+the battle of Jena. Soon thereafter he was captured and for some time
+suffered imprisonment. Exchanged and returned to Neuwied, he continued
+the scientific pursuits which had long interested him; but a fresh
+military crisis called him once more into service, in which he rose to
+a major-generalship, won the honor of the iron cross at Chalons, and
+entered Paris with the victorious army in 1813. Reminiscences of this
+warlike experience came to him twenty years later in the Missouri
+wilderness, when he notes that the song of the Assiniboin warriors
+before Fort McKenzie resembled that of the Russian soldiers heard in
+the winter of 1813-14.
+
+While successful as a soldier, at heart Maximilian was a searcher for
+knowledge. In his boyhood his mother had encouraged his love for
+natural history, and under the direction of his tutor he had begun a
+collection that was creditable to a youth. Later, in his university
+course, he came under the influence of the celebrated Professor Johann
+Friedrich Blumenbach, and as a favorite pupil absorbed from him a keen
+desire to contribute to the world's stock of knowledge. Throughout
+what leisure he could snatch in the Napoleonic campaigns, the young
+prince was planning a scientific expedition to Brazil, and no sooner
+was he finally released from martial duties than he made preparations
+that culminated, early in 1815, in a departure for that country.
+Joined in South America by two German scholars who had preceded him
+thither, the trio spent two years in the tropical forests of that
+country, studying its flora and fauna, and above all the native races.
+After the return to Germany, Maximilian's succeeding years were spent
+in arranging his collections and preparing for publication the results
+of his journey. His _Reise nach Brasilien in den Jahren 1815 bis 1817_
+(Frankfurt, 1820-21) was soon translated into French, Dutch, and
+English; later appeared _Beitrage zur Naturgeschichte von Brasilien_
+(Weimar, 1825-33), designed to accompany the atlas of ninety plates,
+entitled _Abbildungenen zur Naturgeschichte Brasiliens_ (Weimar,
+1822-31). The publication of these works gave Maximilian an honored
+place among scientists, and proclaimed his ability as an exploring
+naturalist.
+
+By 1831 the prince was engaged in preparations for his second great
+enterprise--a visit to North America, including a scientific
+exploration of the trans-Mississippi region. Embarking on an American
+packet at Helvoetsluys, May 17, 1832, our traveller arrived in Boston
+amid the salvos of artillery ushering in the anniversary of American
+independence.
+
+Maximilian was accompanied on this voyage by a young Swiss artist,
+Charles Bodmer, whom he had engaged to paint primitive landscapes in
+the New World, together with portraits of its aborigines. The artist's
+work proved eminently successful, as evidenced by the rare quality of
+the plates engraved from his sketches, which we reproduce in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. Bodmer--born in Zurich in
+1805--had studied in Paris; after his excursion to America with
+Maximilian, he returned to his former haunts, finally settling with
+the artist colony at Barbizon, in the forest of Fontainebleau, where
+he became a successful landscapist, and received medals of honor at
+the salons of 1851, 1855, and 1863, and in 1876 the ribbon of the
+legion of honor. One of his canvases was purchased by the French
+government for the Luxembourg gallery. His son Henri, also a painter,
+was recently exhibiting in the Paris salons. During the winter spent
+at Fort Clark, Bodmer experienced several adventures. At one time he
+was for several hours lost upon the prairie; again, his paints and
+oils congealed in the zero-blasts of the Dakotan winter. His interest
+in his task, however, was unwearied; by cajolery, bribery, and rare
+patience he secured sittings from famous Indian chiefs, faithfully
+presenting their portraits to the world in the full equipment of
+savage finery, thus giving us an unexcelled gallery of Indian types
+and costumes.
+
+In addition to this admirable artist--in some respects perhaps the
+most competent draughtsman who has thus far sought to depict the North
+American tribesmen--Prince Maximilian was accompanied by his faithful
+jaeger Dreidoppel, who had been with him in Brazil, and who rendered
+efficient service on the Missouri hills and prairies.
+
+"There are," our author tells us in his preface, "two distinct points
+of view" from which the traveller may study the United States--he may
+consider its present conditions and its future prosperity; its
+resources, population, immigration, and "gigantic strides of
+civilization." Maximilian's own purpose, however, was to collect data
+concerning the remnants of its aboriginal population, and the
+primitive state of its fields and forests; these he sought to observe
+and to perpetuate both in description and drawing. The America of the
+Eastern states had therefore slight charm for our traveller, his
+object being to reach the frontier as soon as was consistent with his
+scientific purposes.
+
+Tarrying briefly in Boston, New York, and Philadelphia, communities
+which he describes in a few terse sentences, he sought the forests of
+Pennsylvania for preliminary experience in the simpler phases of
+woodcraft and hunting, as well as to visit the German immigrants
+settled in this region. He had expected to journey westward by way of
+the Great Lakes, but the appearance of cholera at Detroit and Buffalo
+made this plan impractical; instead, he visited the Moravians at
+Bethlehem, and made a leisurely journey through northern Pennsylvania,
+inspecting the coal mines and the geological structures. In the early
+autumn the prince and his two companions reached Pittsburg, but there
+finding the water in the Ohio too low for navigation, they went
+overland to Wheeling, where they embarked (October 9) for the descent
+of the river. At Louisville, they found that the cholera scourge had
+preceded them, whereupon with but a brief stay they continued their
+voyage to the Wabash, where they turned aside to visit the colony of
+naturalists settled at the Indiana town of New Harmony.
+
+For some years Maximilian had been in correspondence with Thomas Say,
+the entomologist, who had accompanied Major S. H. Long's expedition,
+and was now managing the property of William Maclure, president of the
+Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences, who had purchased Robert
+Owen's communistic settlement on the Wabash, founded in 1825. Owen's
+two sons, Robert Dale and William, were still in the vicinity,
+together with Charles Alexander Lesueur, a French naturalist of
+repute. Even more attractive than the society of the scientists was
+the presence of a good library of Americana and natural history, at
+that time probably the best west of the Atlantic seaboard. Here,
+therefore, on the banks of the Wabash, our naturalist contentedly
+spent the winter of 1832-33, preparing for his journey into the Far
+West, and studying the antiquities and natural sciences of America.
+During these months, Bodmer made a voyage to New Orleans, but returned
+in time to set forth with his patron, March 16, 1833. After a
+steamboat journey to the mouth of the Ohio and up the Mississippi,
+they arrived at St. Louis before the departure for the interior of the
+usual spring caravans of the Western fur-traders.
+
+At this entrepot of the wilderness trade, Maximilian presented letters
+to its prominent citizens, and was invited by General William Clark to
+accompany a deputation of Sauk and Foxes, headed by Keokuk, on a visit
+to the imprisoned Sauk chiefs, Black Hawk and his confreres, at
+Jefferson Barracks. The interest with which Maximilian regarded these
+first North American barbarians whom he had come so far to see, is
+well expressed in the narrative. Black Hawk he describes as a "little
+old man, perhaps seventy years of age, with grey hair, and a light
+yellow complexion, a slightly curved nose, and Chinese features, to
+which the shaven head, with the usual tuft behind, not a little
+contributed." The meeting between the prisoners and their free
+countrymen appeared to the prince most affecting.
+
+Maximilian had desired to visit the Rocky Mountains and their
+inhabitants, and accordingly planned to join one of the annual
+fur-trading caravans that, under the auspices of the Rocky Mountain
+Fur Company, set off for their rendezvous in the heart of the
+Cordilleras. From this purpose he was dissuaded by General Clark,
+Major Benjamin O'Fallon, and other St. Louis folk cognizant with the
+situation. They represented to the illustrious traveller that these
+caravans avoided rather than sought the Indians; and that if they met,
+the encounter was apt to be hostile rather than friendly. It would
+also be extremely difficult to transport any extensive collections of
+fauna and flora by the land route. They thereupon advised a visit to
+the American Fur Company's trading posts on the Missouri via that
+company's annual steamboat, a plan which met the approval of the
+scientist and his companions.
+
+The tenth of April, 1833, the travellers boarded the "Yellowstone," on
+its third trip to the posts of the upper Missouri. Before parting with
+Major O'Fallon, the latter gave them a manuscript map copied from one
+prepared during the Lewis and Clark expedition by Clark himself, the
+topographer of that famous exploring party. This chart was constantly
+used by the prince. His narrative recites the daily routine and
+incidents of the river voyage on the outward route. By April 22 the
+steamer had reached Fort (then Cantonment) Leavenworth, and ten days
+later they were at Bellevue, just below the present Omaha. It was not
+until the eighteenth of May that the prince's party were greeted by
+their first sight of buffalo, and by the last of that month they had
+arrived at Fort Pierre, the company's main post among the Sioux. Here
+our travellers were transferred from the "Yellowstone" to her sister
+steamer, the "Assiniboine," a newer, larger boat with, however, a
+lighter draught; the latter was to continue to the upper river, while
+the "Yellowstone" returned to St. Louis.
+
+Slowly the party steamed up the river, past the Sioux territory and
+the Arikara villages into the land of the Mandan and the Minitaree,
+where on June 18 they were landed at the company's Fort Clark, just
+below a Mandan village several miles above the present Bismarck, North
+Dakota. Tarrying here but one day, the steamer continued its journey
+to the mouth of Yellowstone River, where Fort Union was reached on the
+twenty-fourth of June. After spending two weeks at this point,
+Maximilian and his suite were transferred to a keel-boat, and
+continued their voyage to Fort McKenzie, on Maria's River, among the
+treacherous Blackfeet.
+
+Here, during a stay of two months, the German naturalist was initiated
+into the mysteries of the fur-trade, came to understand the jealousies
+and rivalries of Indian tribes, and witnessed a battle before the
+stockade of the fort, between Blackfeet and Assiniboin warriors.
+Because of this intertribal quarrel and the consequent restlessness
+and untrustworthiness of the neighboring barbarians, it was deemed
+inexpedient by the fur-traders for the travellers to advance farther
+into the Rockies, and Maximilian had need to content himself with such
+glimpses of the mountain ranges as could be had from the bluffs of
+Maria's River, and the upper reaches of the Missouri. The
+"Assiniboine" having long since departed on the home trip, the chief
+factor at Fort McKenzie built a barge for the princely visitor, upon
+which Maximilian embarked (September 14), together with a small crew
+of _voyageurs_, two cages of live bears, and several animal pets.
+
+Since wintering in the mountains had proved impracticable, our author
+determined to occupy the long cold months now at hand with the most
+interesting aborigines of the upper river. For this purpose he
+selected the Mandan and Minitaree, both because of their settled
+habitations and of the interest that these tribes had awakened in
+previous travellers. Known first to the early French explorers, it was
+from their villages that the Verendrye brothers had in 1742 set forth
+on their explorations toward the "Shining Mountains." Located at the
+upper bend of the Missouri, they were readily accessible to British
+traders of the Assiniboin and Saskatchewan valleys, who were found as
+habitues in their villages by Lewis and Clark, in 1804-05. Accordingly
+Maximilian requested permission of the American Fur Company officials
+to pass the winter at Fort Clark, the Mandan post. McKenzie
+accommodatingly ordered to be built for the famous traveller a small
+house within the stockade, and every facility to be given him for
+making records of the neighboring tribesmen. In company with Toussaint
+Charbonneau, Lewis and Clark's former interpreter, the German visitor
+attended various ceremonies, dances, and feasts, took many portraits
+of the chiefs, and studied the manners and customs, and myths and
+superstitions of this vanishing race. The latter part of the winter
+the prince suffered with a serious attack of scurvy, from which,
+however, he recovered in time to set forth for the lower country on
+the breaking up of the ice.
+
+By the eighteenth of May he was once more at Fort Leavenworth. After
+brief visits at St. Louis and New Harmony, he journeyed eastward by
+way of the Ohio Canal and Lake Erie, stopped to wonder at the majesty
+of the Falls of Niagara, and on July 16, 1834, embarked at New York on
+the Havre packet for the Old World. A large portion of his collections
+were left behind at Fort Pierre, to be forwarded with the season's
+furs by the annual steamer. A fire occurring on the "Assiniboine," but
+few of these natural history specimens ever reached him, and one
+object of the prince's American visit was thereby frustrated.
+
+An interesting reminiscence of the visit of Prince Maximilian is found
+in the journals of Alexander Culbertson, a young fur-trade clerk who
+accompanied the scientist from Fort Union to Fort McKenzie. Culbertson
+says: "In this year an interesting character in the person of Prince
+Maximilian from Coblentz on the Rhine, made his first appearance in
+the upper Missouri. The Prince was at that time nearly seventy years
+of age [fifty-five], but well preserved, and able to endure
+considerable fatigue. He was a man of medium-height, rather slender,
+sans teeth, passionately fond of his pipe, unostentatious, and
+speaking very broken English. His favorite dress was a white slouch
+hat, a black velvet coat, rather rusty from long service, and probably
+the greasiest pair of trousers that ever encased princely legs. The
+Prince was a bachelor and a man of science, and it was in this latter
+capacity that he had roamed so far from his ancestral home on the
+Rhine. He was accompanied by an artist named Boadman [Bodmer] and a
+servant whose name was, as near as the author has been able to
+ascertain its spelling, Tritripel [Dreidoppel] ... McKenzie
+subsequently visited him in his palace at Coblentz, where he lived in
+a style befitting a prince, and was received with great cordiality and
+entertained with lavish hospitality. He inquired whether the double
+barrelled gun and the meershaum had reached their destination, as he
+had remembered his promise and forwarded them soon after his return to
+Europe. They had not, and never were received, for it subsequently
+appeared that the vessel in which they were shipped was lost; so they
+are probably now among the ill-gotten hoards of the Atlantic."[1]
+
+The years immediately following the prince's return to Europe were
+spent in preparing the results of his journey for the press. This
+proved to be his last foreign expedition, but he nevertheless
+continued absorbed with studies and consequent collections at his
+native place until death removed him in 1867. A few months before that
+event he wrote an interesting letter in English to the artist George
+Catlin, whose account of Mandan religious ceremonies had been
+discredited by many. The prince therein speaks of reviving the "quite
+forgotten recollections of my stay among the Indian tribes of the
+Missouri, now thirty-three years past," and says that not only does he
+know "most of the American works published on the American Indians,"
+but he possesses many of them.[2] His library and collections are yet
+cherished as the chief treasures of Neuwied, where his grand-nephew
+Wilhelm still directs the principality's affairs.
+
+The narrative of Maximilian's North American journey was first
+published in German, having been written, as the author says, for
+foreigners rather than Americans, its title being _Reise in das Innere
+Nord-America in den Jahren 1832 bis 1834_ (Coblentz, 1839-41), and its
+form two handsome quarto volumes, with an atlas of Bodmer's
+remarkable engravings. A French edition in three volumes, with the
+atlas, appeared at Paris in 1840-43. The Englished version, undertaken
+by H. Evans Lloyd, was issued in London in 1843, in one quarto volume.
+This latter translation we here reprint for the first time. In
+addition we have included in the Appendix to our volume xxiv, the
+twenty-three Indian vocabularies, one of the glories of the German
+original, which feature has never been reproduced in any other of the
+translated editions. Carefully recorded and scientifically collated by
+a trained observer and scholar, they form a contribution to American
+philology now impossible to duplicate. But five years after
+Maximilian's visit to the upper river, smallpox broke out among the
+tribes, and carried its ravages to such an extent that bands once
+powerful were reduced to scanty remnants. The Mandan were at the time
+reported to be absolutely annihilated; a few, however, are still
+living on Fort Berthold reservation, in North Dakota. Maximilian's
+observations are the more valuable because made in the plenitude of
+that tribe's power and prosperity, before their diminished numbers
+made them subservient to the invading fur-traders.
+
+In addition to the vocabularies, and unique in the present English
+edition, we present Maximilian's account of the Indian sign language,
+his catalogues of birds for both the Missouri and Wabash river
+valleys, and a summary of his meteorological observations on the upper
+Missouri. All of these were omitted from the London edition of 1843.
+It has been our purpose to give to American readers the entire
+scientific as well as narrative product of the prince's famous
+expedition.
+
+While the chief value of the present work lies in its ethnological
+significance, it is highly interesting as an historical description of
+natural conditions west of the Mississippi, seventy years ago. The
+author's style is simple, natural, and unforced, rather the expression
+of the scientific than of the literary type of mind. A traveller of
+today, gliding across the plains and along the windings of the
+Missouri in a palace-car, may follow the pages of Maximilian and the
+plates of Bodmer, and thus obtain as clearly as words and pictures can
+express, an accurate presentation of the trans-Mississippi region in
+1833. These volumes are thus a fitting supplement to the work of the
+prince's great progenitors, the American explorers, Lewis and Clark.
+
+In preparing this volume for the press, the Editor has had throughout
+the valuable assistance of Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph.D., who in turn
+has been aided by Clarence Cory Crawford, A.M. The translations from
+the German, not given by Lloyd, have been made for the present reprint
+by Asa Currier Tilton, Ph.D., chief of the department of maps and
+manuscripts in the Wisconsin Historical Library.
+
+     R. G. T.
+
+     MADISON, WIS., November, 1905.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Montana Historical Society _Contributions_, iii, pp. 206, 207.
+
+[2] Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, part ii, p. 378.
+
+
+
+
+
+     PART I OF MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED'S, TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR
+     OF NORTH AMERICA
+
+     Reprint of chapters i-xv of London edition: 1843
+
+
+
+
+
+     TRAVELS
+     IN
+     THE INTERIOR OF
+     NORTH AMERICA.
+
+     BY
+     MAXIMILIAN, PRINCE OF WIED.
+
+     WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD,
+     AND A LARGE MAP.
+
+     TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN,
+     BY H. EVANS LLOYD,
+
+     TO ACCOMPANY THE ORIGINAL SERIES OF EIGHTY-ONE
+     ELABORATELY-COLOURED PLATES.
+
+     SIZE, IMPERIAL FOLIO.
+
+     LONDON:
+     ACKERMANN AND CO., 96, STRAND
+     MDCCCXLIII.
+
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+Immense additions have been made of late years to our knowledge of the
+extensive continent of North America. A large portion of that country,
+which, only a few years ago, was covered with almost uninterrupted
+primeval forests, and a scanty, scattered population of rude
+barbarians, has been converted, by the influx of emigrants from the
+Old World, into a rich and flourishing State, for the most part
+civilized, and almost as well known and cultivated as Europe itself.
+Large and flourishing towns, with fine public institutions of every
+kind, have risen rapidly, and every year adds to their number.
+Animated commerce, unfettered, unlimited industry, have caused this
+astonishing advance of civilization in the United States. The tide of
+emigration is impelled onwards, wave upon wave, and it is only the
+sterility of the North-west that can check the advancing torrent.
+
+We already possess numerous accounts of these daily-increasing States,
+and there are many good statistical works on the subject. We have even
+excellent general works on the physical state of this continent, among
+which Volney's "Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis," holds a
+high rank.[3] Little, however, has yet been done towards a clear and
+vivid description of the natural scenery of North America: the works
+of American writers themselves on this subject, with the exception of
+Cooper's and Washington Irving's animated descriptions, cannot be
+taken into account, as, in writing for their countrymen, they take it
+for granted that their readers are well acquainted with the country.
+
+For this reason I have endeavoured, in the following work, to supply
+this deficiency to the best of my ability, and have aimed rather at
+giving a clear and faithful description of the country, than at
+collecting statistical information. Hence these travels are designed
+for foreign, rather than for American readers, to whom, probably, but
+few of the details would be new.
+
+There are two distinct points of view in which that remarkable country
+may be considered. Some travellers are interested by the rude,
+primitive character of the natural face of North America, and its
+aboriginal population, the traces of which are now scarcely
+discernible in most parts of the United States; while the majority are
+more inclined to contemplate the immigrant population, and the
+gigantic strides of civilization introduced by it. The account of my
+tour through a part of these countries, contained in the following
+pages, is chiefly intended for readers of the first class. I have
+avoided the repetition of numerous statements which may be found in
+various statistical publications; but, on the contrary, have aimed at
+a simple description of nature. As the United States were merely the
+basis of my more extensive undertaking, the object of which [vi] was
+the investigation of the upper part of the course of the Missouri,
+they do not form a prominent feature, and it is impossible to expect,
+from a few months' residence, an opinion on the social condition and
+character of that motley population.
+
+The indulgent reader, following the author beyond the frontier of the
+United States, will have to direct his attention to those extensive
+plains--those cheerless, desolate prairies, the western boundary of
+which is formed by the snow-covered chain of the Rocky Mountains, or
+the Oregon, where many tribes of the aborigines still enjoy a peaceful
+abode; while their brethren in the eastern part of the continent are
+supplanted, extirpated, degenerated, in the face of the constantly
+increasing immigration, or have been forced across the Mississippi,
+where they have for the most part perished.
+
+The vast tracts of the interior of North-western America are, in
+general, but little known, and the government of the United States may
+be justly reproached for not having done more to explore them. Some
+few scientific expeditions, among which the two under Major Long
+produced the most satisfactory results for natural history, though on
+a limited scale, were set on foot by the government; and it is only
+under its protection that a thorough investigation of those extensive
+wildernesses, especially in the Rocky Mountains, can be undertaken.[4]
+Even Major Long's expeditions are but poorly furnished with respect to
+natural history, for a faithful and vivid picture of those countries,
+and their original inhabitants, can never be placed before the eye
+without the aid of a fine portfolio of plates by the hand of a skilful
+artist.
+
+In my description of the voyage up the Missouri, I have endeavoured to
+avail myself of the assistance of an able draughtsman, the want of
+which I so sensibly felt in my former travels in South America. On the
+present occasion I was accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, who has represented
+the Indian nations with great truth, and correct delineation of their
+characteristic features. His drawings will prove an important addition
+to our knowledge of this race of men, to whom so little attention has
+hitherto been paid.
+
+After mature consideration, I have judged it desirable to throw the
+account of my voyage on the Missouri itself into the form of a
+journal, as the daily notices were numerous, but the variety very
+trifling; so that the patience of the reader will unfortunately be
+tried a little in this part of the narrative. In those uninhabited,
+desert countries the traveller has nothing but the description of the
+naked banks of the river, and the little diversity they afford,
+interrupted at times by the adventures of the chase, and occasional
+meetings with Indians; the reader will therefore excuse many
+observations and unimportant descriptions, which would have been
+omitted if the materials had been richer in variety. I need still more
+indulgence with respect to many observations on natural history, but
+for this the loss of the greater part of my collections will be a
+sufficient excuse. The cases containing them were delivered to the
+Company, to be put on board the steamer for St. Louis, but not
+insured; and, when the steamer caught fire, the people thought rather
+of saving the goods than my cases, the contents of which were,
+probably, not considered to be of much value, and so they were all
+burnt. This may be a warning to future travellers not to neglect to
+insure such collections.
+
+Though the main object of my journey, namely, to pass some time in the
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, was defeated by unfavorable circumstances,
+I should have been able, but for the loss of my collections, to
+communicate many new observations, especially in the department of
+zoology, which are now more or less deficient. The accounts of the
+tribes of the aborigines, and [vii] especially of the Mandans and
+Manitaries, are more complete, because I spent a whole winter among
+them, and was able to have daily intercourse with them. Authentic and
+impartial accounts of the Indians of the Upper Missouri are now
+especially valuable, if the information that we have since received is
+well founded, namely, that to the many evils introduced by the Whites
+among those tribes, a most destructive epidemic--smallpox--has been
+added, and a great part of them exterminated: according to the
+newspapers, the Mandans, Manitaries, Assiniboins, and Blackfeet have
+been swept away except a small remnant. The observation of the
+manners of the aborigines is undoubtedly that which must chiefly
+interest the foreign traveller in those countries, especially as the
+Anglo-Americans look down on them with a certain feeling of hatred.
+Hence we have hitherto met with little useful information respecting
+the Indians, except in the recent writings of Edward James, Long, Say,
+Schoolcraft, McKinney, Cass, Duponceau, Irving,[5] and a few others;
+and as good portraits of this race have hitherto been extremely rare,
+the faithful delineation contained in the portfolio of plates
+accompanying this work will be interesting to the friends of
+anthropology and ethnography.
+
+Several men, of great eminence in the learned world, have had the
+kindness to contribute to the publication. President Nees Von Esenbeck
+has undertaken the determination and description of the plants which
+I brought home;[6] Professor Goldfuss, of Bonn, that of some fossil
+shells; Professor Goeppert, of Breslau, that of the impression of
+fossil plants from Mauch Chunk;[7] Professors Valenciennes at Paris,
+and Wiegmann at Boston, the comparison of some zoological specimens
+with those in their cities;[8] and Lieut.-Col. W. Thorn, the
+construction of the map; for which obliging assistance I beg leave to
+offer to these gentlemen my sincere thanks.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Consult James's _Long's Expedition_, in our volume xiv, p. 75,
+note 41.--ED.
+
+[4] We reprint the account of Long's expedition in our volumes
+xiv-xvii.--ED.
+
+[5] For Edwin (not Edward) James and S. H. Long see preface to our
+volume xiv, pp. 10-13, 25, 26; for Thomas Say, _ibid._, p. 40, note 1;
+for Washington Irving as an authority on Western history, Gregg's
+_Commerce of the Prairies_, our volume xix, p. 161, note 2.
+
+Henry Rowe Schoolcraft (1793-1864) was a well-known traveller,
+ethnologist, and historian. Born in New York, he studied at both
+Middlebury and Union colleges. His first tour to the West was in
+1817-18, when he made a collection of minerals in Missouri and
+Arkansas. In 1820 he accompanied Cass's western expedition, and the
+following year acted as secretary of the Indian Commissioners at
+Chicago. In 1822 he was made Indian agent at Mackinac, where he
+resided for seventeen years, having married a descendant of a Chippewa
+chief. In 1837 he was promoted to superintendency of the Northern
+department, whence he resigned (1841) to devote himself to literary
+work. In 1847 Congress authorized the publication of a work upon
+Indian tribes, to which Schoolcraft devoted the latter portion of his
+life. It appeared as _Historical and Statistical Information
+respecting the History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian Tribes
+of the United States_ (Philadelphia, 1851-57). Schoolcraft belonged to
+many learned and historical societies, received a medal from the
+French Institute, and was in his day the chief authority on American
+Indians. Besides the work already cited, he published much, chief of
+which is _Personal Memoirs_ (Philadelphia, 1851); _Summary Narrative
+of an Exploratory Expedition to the Source of the Mississippi River in
+1820, resumed and completed by the Discovery of its Origin in Itasca
+Lake in 1832_ (Philadelphia, 1855).
+
+Thomas Lorraine McKenney (1785-1859) was superintendent of trade with
+the Indian tribes, 1816-24. In the latter year he was made head of the
+bureau of Indian affairs in the war department, also serving
+frequently as treaty commissioner. The work to which reference is here
+made, is _Sketches of a Tour to the Lakes_ (Baltimore, 1827).
+
+Lewis Cass (1782-1866) had unusual opportunities for contact with the
+tribesmen. After taking a prominent part in the War of 1812-15, he was
+for eighteen years governor of Michigan Territory. His contributions
+to Indian bibliography were a series of articles published in the
+_North American Review_, xxvi-xxx (1828-30).
+
+Peter Stephen Duponceau (1760-1844) was a Frenchman who came to
+America during the Revolution. Settling at Philadelphia, he became a
+member of the American Philosophical Society, and contributed to its
+_Transactions_ several articles on the structure and grammar of Indian
+languages.--ED.
+
+[6] Christian Gottfried Nees von Esenbeck (1776-1858), a famous
+botanist and physician. He first engaged in the practice of medicine,
+but in 1818 went to Erlangen as professor of botany, the next year
+being called to Bonn, then being professor at Breslau (1831-52). The
+number of his published works is considerable.--ED.
+
+[7] Georg August Goldfuss (1782-1848) was born at Bayreuth, and became
+privatdocent at Erlangen, then professor of zoology and mineralogy at
+Bonn and director of the zoological museum.
+
+Robert Goeppert (1800-1884) was a botanist and palaeontologist. First
+studying medicine at Breslau and Berlin, he was professor of botany in
+the university at the former place (1831-39). In 1852 he was chosen
+director of the botanical gardens at Breslau, where he remained until
+his death.--ED.
+
+[8] Achille Valenciennes (1794-1864) was a French zoologist, a friend
+and fellow-worker with Cuvier, and director of the Paris zoological
+museum.
+
+Arend Friedrich August Wiegmann (1802-41) was for a time professor of
+zoology at Berlin. He founded (1835) _Archivs fur Naturgeschichte_.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE
+
+
+The author, in his Preface, gives so full an account of the objects
+and results of his travels in the interior of North America, that it
+would have been unnecessary for me to prefix any observations of my
+own, were it not for some circumstances, connected with the
+translation, which seem to require explanation.
+
+The prospectus of the German original announced that the work would
+consist of two large quarto volumes, accompanied by a portfolio of
+above eighty beautifully coloured copper-plates, executed by eminent
+artists at Paris, from the original drawings. Some specimens of the
+plates having been brought to London, were so much admired by many
+competent judges, that Messrs. Ackermann were induced to agree with
+the Paris publisher for a limited number of copies of the plates; and
+as it might justly be presumed that the English purchasers would be
+desirous of having the narrative of the travels, it was resolved to
+publish a translation compressed into a single volume. By selecting,
+however, a page of a large size, the translator has been able to
+retain all the most interesting parts, omitting only minute details of
+the measurements of animals, &c. All the chapters illustrative of the
+manners, customs, traditions, and superstitions of the Indians are
+given without abridgment, and these, as the author justly observes,
+are by far the most attractive and valuable portions of the work. The
+papers in the Appendix, giving an account of the plants collected, are
+also inserted entire, and have been kindly revised by my friend Sir
+William Hooker.[9]
+
+The principal omission is that of the very extensive vocabularies of
+the languages of the different Indian tribes.[10] They are written so
+as to represent the pronunciation in German, and have, in numerous
+instances, special directions, as thus: kontschue (_on_ as in French,
+_schue_, short and quick, _e_1/2). It appeared to be a hopeless and
+unprofitable task to rewrite these vocabularies, and to represent the
+true pronunciation in English. Those who are curious in such matters
+will find many specimens in Mr. Catlin's interesting work.[11]
+
+The numerous Indian proper names are, of course, written in the
+original as pronounced in German. It has been thought best to leave
+them unchanged, merely requesting the reader to observe, in general,
+that the consonants are pronounced as in English; only that _ch_ is
+guttural, as in the Scotch word _loch_; that _sch_ is pronounced _sh_,
+and that the vowels have the same sound as in French, _ah_, _a_, _ee_,
+_o_, _oo_.
+
+The author alludes, in his Preface, to the recent fearful ravages
+which have been caused among the Indian races by the small-pox. The
+origin and extent of these ravages will be seen from the following
+very affecting letter on the subject:
+
+   [pg. ix]"NEW ORLEANS, _June 6, 1838_.--The southern parts of the
+   United States, particularly Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana, are
+   as healthy as can be wished; there has been no appearance of the
+   yellow fever, and even at the Havannah only a few isolated cases
+   have occurred. During the autumn, winter, and spring, the
+   small-pox has carried off many victims among the whites, and
+   thousands of the Indians; but it has now wholly disappeared in
+   the territory of the Union, in consequence of a general
+   vaccination of persons of all ages. On the other hand, we have,
+   from the trading posts on the western frontier of the Missouri,
+   the most frightful accounts of the ravages of the small-pox
+   among the Indians. The destroying angel has visited the
+   unfortunate sons of the wilderness with terrors never before
+   known, and has converted the extensive hunting grounds, as well
+   as the peaceful settlements of those tribes, into desolate and
+   boundless cemeteries. The number of the victims within a few
+   months is estimated at 30,000, and the pestilence is still
+   spreading. The warlike spirit which but lately animated the
+   several Indian tribes, and but a few months ago gave reason to
+   apprehend the breaking-out of a sanguinary war, is broken. The
+   mighty warriors are now the prey of the greedy wolves of the
+   prairie, and the few survivors, in mute despair, throw
+   themselves on the pity of the Whites, who, however, can do but
+   little to help them. The vast preparations for the protection of
+   the western frontier are superfluous: another arm has undertaken
+   the defence of the white inhabitants of the frontier; and the
+   funeral torch, that lights the red man to his dreary grave, has
+   become the auspicious star of the advancing settler, and of the
+   roving trader of the white race.
+
+   "The small-pox was communicated to the Indians by a person who
+   was on board the steam-boat which went, last summer, up to the
+   mouth of the Yellow Stone, to convey both the government
+   presents for the Indians, and the goods for the barter trade of
+   the fur dealers.[12] The disorder communicated itself to several
+   of the crew of the steam-boat. The officers gave notice of it to
+   the Indians, and exerted themselves to the utmost to prevent any
+   intercourse between them and the vessel; but this was a vain
+   attempt; for the Indians knew that presents and goods for barter
+   were come for them, and it would have been impossible to drive
+   them away from the fort without having recourse to arms. Two
+   days before the arrival of the steam-boat, an express had been
+   received at the trading fort, 2000 miles west of St. Louis, with
+   the melancholy news of the breaking-out of the small-pox on
+   board; this was immediately communicated to the Indians, with
+   the most urgent entreaties to keep at a distance; but this was
+   as good as preaching to the winds. The survivors now lament
+   their disobedience, and are as submissive as the poor dogs which
+   look in vain in the prairie for the footsteps of their masters.
+   The miserable remnants of the Indians implore us not to abandon
+   them in their misfortune, and promise, if we will take pity on
+   them, never more to disobey our commands.
+
+   "The disease first broke out about the 15th of June, 1837, in
+   the village of the Mandans, a few miles below the American fort,
+   Leavenworth, from which it spread, in all directions, with
+   unexampled fury.[13] The character of the disease was as
+   appalling as the rapidity of the propagation. Among the remotest
+   tribes of the Assiniboins from fifty to one hundred died daily.
+   The patient, when first seized, complains of dreadful pains in
+   the head and back, and in a few hours he is dead: the body
+   immediately turns black, and swells to thrice its natural size.
+   In vain were hospitals fitted up in Fort Union,[14] and the
+   whole stock of medicines exhausted. For many weeks together our
+   workmen did nothing but collect the dead bodies and bury them in
+   large pits; but since the ground is frozen we are obliged to
+   throw them into the river. The ravages of the disorder were the
+   most frightful among the Mandans, where it first broke out. That
+   once powerful tribe, which, by accumulated disasters, had
+   already been reduced to 1500 souls, was exterminated, with the
+   exception of thirty persons. Their neighbours, the Bigbellied
+   Indians, and the Ricarees, were out on a hunting excursion at
+   the time of the breaking-out of the disorder, so that it did not
+   reach them till a month later; yet half the tribe was already
+   destroyed on the 1st of October, and the disease continued to
+   spread. Very few of those who were attacked recovered their
+   health; but when they saw all their relations buried, and the
+   pestilence still raging with unabated fury among the remainder
+   of their countrymen, life became a burden to them, and they put
+   an end to their wretched existence, either with their knives and
+   muskets, or by precipitating themselves from the summit of the
+   rock near their settlement. The prairie all around is a vast
+   field of death, covered with unburied corpses, and spreading,
+   for miles, pestilence and infection. The Bigbellied Indians and
+   the Ricarees, lately amounting to 4000 souls, were reduced to
+   less than the half. The Assiniboins, 9000 in number, roaming
+   over a hunting territory to the north of the Missouri, as far as
+   the trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company, are, in the
+   literal sense of the expression, nearly exterminated. They, as
+   well as the Crows and Blackfeet, endeavoured to fly in all
+   directions, but the disease everywhere pursued them. At last
+   every feeling of mutual compassion and tenderness seems to have
+   disappeared. Every one avoided the others. Women and children
+   wandered about in the prairie seeking [pg. x] for a scanty
+   subsistence. The accounts of the situation of the Blackfeet are
+   awful. The inmates of above 1000 of their tents are already
+   swept away. They are the bravest and the most crafty of all the
+   Indians, dangerous and implacable to their enemies, but faithful
+   and kind to their friends. But very lately we seriously
+   apprehended that a terrible war with them was at hand, and that
+   they would unite the whole of their remaining strength against
+   the Whites. Every day brought accounts of new armaments, and of
+   a loudly expressed spirit of vengeance towards the Whites: but
+   the small-pox cast them down, the brave as well as the feeble;
+   and those who were once seized by this infection never
+   recovered. It is affirmed that several bands of warriors, who
+   were on their march to attack the fort, all perished by the way,
+   so that not one survived to convey the intelligence to their
+   tribe. Thus, in the course of a few weeks, their strength and
+   their courage were broken, and nothing was to be heard but the
+   frightful wailings of death in the camp. Every thought of war
+   was dispelled, and the few that are left are as humble as
+   famished dogs. No language can picture the scene of desolation
+   which the country presents. In whatever direction we go, we see
+   nothing but melancholy wrecks of human life. The tents are still
+   standing on every hill, but no rising smoke announces the
+   presence of human beings, and no sounds but the croaking of the
+   raven and the howling of the wolf interrupt the fearful silence.
+   The above accounts do not complete the terrible intelligence
+   which we receive. There is scarcely a doubt that the pestilence
+   will spread to the tribes in and beyond the Rocky Mountains, as
+   well as to the Indians in the direction of Santa Fe and Mexico.
+   It seems to be irrevocably written in the book of fate, that the
+   race of red men shall be wholly extirpated in the land in which
+   they ruled the undisputed masters, till the rapacity of the
+   Whites brought to their shores the murderous fire-arms, the
+   enervating ardent spirits, and the all-destructive pestilence of
+   the small-pox. According to the most recent accounts, the
+   number of the Indians who have been swept away by the small-pox,
+   on the western frontier of the United States, amounts to more
+   than 60,000."[15]
+
+The general correctness of the melancholy details given in the above
+letter has been confirmed to me by several travellers who have visited
+these nations since they were desolated by this awful epidemic. The
+almost total extinction of these tribes greatly enhances the value and
+importance of the full and interesting particulars imparted by his
+Highness.
+
+     H. EVANS LLOYD.[16]
+
+     CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE,
+     May 1st, 1843.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Sir William Jackson Hooker (1785-1865) was early devoted to the
+study of natural history, making scientific journeys to Scotland in
+1806 and to Iceland in 1809. Later (1814), Hooker prosecuted a nine
+months' botanical tour on the continent of Europe. The following year
+he married and settled on his estate where he commenced an herbarium;
+from 1820 to 1841 he was regius professor of botany at Glasgow, being
+in 1836 knighted for eminent service to science. From 1841 till his
+death he was director of Kew Gardens, London. Hooker's interest in
+American scientific development was marked, and he dispatched many
+pupils on botanical tours to unknown parts of the new continent.--ED.
+
+[10] Reprinted in our volume xxiv.--ED.
+
+[11] George Catlin was born in Wilkesbarre, Pennsylvania, in 1796, of
+a New England family; his mother was a woman of artistic tastes, and
+had lived on the Indian border. Early in his career, Catlin heard much
+of the traditions of the aborigines, and thus was unconsciously
+prepared for his later life work. In 1817 he was sent to study law at
+Litchfield; returning to Pennsylvania two years later, he practiced in
+the rural districts until 1823, when he abandoned the law, and going
+to Philadelphia became an artist. For several years he was employed in
+painting miniatures and other portraits, going as far as Washington
+and Albany to execute orders. Having met at the former city a
+deputation of American Indians, Catlin was imbued with a desire to
+paint the portraits of these vanishing tribesmen, and in 1832 went
+west with this purpose in view. Eight years were spent in native
+lodges and fur-trade camps; then, with a wealth of material widely
+known as Catlin's Collection, he opened a museum--first in the United
+States (1837-39), then in London (1840-44). In 1845 he took his
+collection to Paris, where he remained until expelled by the
+Revolution of 1848. He thereupon re-opened his London museum, with
+additional material; but in 1852 became involved in debt, and his
+collection was shipped to the United States, where it remained
+neglected until 1879, when it was presented to the National Museum at
+Washington. Meanwhile Catlin visited South and Central America
+(1852-57), and resided thereafter in Europe, returning to the United
+States in 1871 only to die the following year at Jersey City. The work
+here referred to was _Letters and Notes on the Manners and Customs of
+the North American Indians_ (New York and London, 1841), more commonly
+cited by the title of later editions, _Notes of Eight Years' Travels_.
+In an appendix are several vocabularies of the Mandan, Blackfeet,
+Arikara, Sioux, and Tuscarora Indians.--ED.
+
+[12] This was the American Fur Company's steamer "St. Peter's," which
+carried the annual outfit and supplies to the Missouri River forts.
+Larpenteur, in charge at Fort Union, says that the vessel arrived June
+24, 1837. See Elliott Coues, _Forty Years a Fur-Trader on the Upper
+Missouri_ (New York, 1898), pp. 131-135.--ED.
+
+[13] For the Mandan see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, pp.
+113, 114, note 76. This should be Fort Clark, not Fort Leavenworth--an
+evident _lapsus calami_. Fort Clark, named for General William Clark,
+was an American fur-trade post built among the Mandan in 1831. See
+_post_, chapter xiii, for a detailed description.--ED.
+
+[14] For Fort Union see _post_, chapter xv.--ED.
+
+[15] Authorities differ as to the numbers perishing by the scourge of
+1837. H. M. Chittenden, _History of American Fur-Trade of the Far
+West_ (New York, 1902), p. 627, thinks fifteen thousand a large
+estimate.--ED.
+
+[16] Hannibal Evans Lloyd (1771-1847), a well-known linguist and
+translator, especially interested in works of travel and science. His
+father had been in the Seven Years' War, of which he wrote a history.
+Early in life the son studied German, and published a grammar and
+dictionary of that language, as well as an _Englisches Lesebuch_
+(Hamburg, 1832) for the use of German students. Lloyd lived for
+several years in Hamburg, and was present during the French invasion
+in 1813, of which he afterwards wrote an account. Among his other
+original works were lives of George IV of England, and Alexander I of
+Russia. His translations were from Swedish, German, and Italian,
+having Englished Katzebue's _Voyages_, Orlich's _Travels in India_,
+and Maximilian's Brazilian travels. Under the signature "H. E. L.,"
+Lloyd was a frequent contributor to the _London Literary Gazette_
+(1817-39). His translation of Maximilian's _Travels_ is clear, simple,
+and straightforward; the German original sustains small loss either of
+style or meaning, although the translator saw fit in many cases to
+abbreviate the prince's prolix descriptions, and to eliminate not only
+the exceedingly valuable linguistic material, but much other
+scientific matter.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH AMERICA, IN THE YEARS 1832, 1833,
+AND 1834
+
+[PART I]
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+VOYAGE TO BOSTON, STAY IN THAT CITY, AND JOURNEY TO NEW YORK, FROM MAY
+17TH TO JULY 9TH, 1832
+
+   Voyage--Boston--Festival of Independence--The American
+   inns--Charlestown--Monument on Bunker's Hill--Cambridge--New
+   England Museum--Pawtucket--Providence--Embark on board the
+   Boston--Voyage to New York--Fine view of that city.
+
+
+Voyages to North America are become everyday occurrences, and little
+more is to be related of them than that you met and saluted ships, had
+fine or stormy weather, and the like; here, therefore, we shall merely
+say that our party embarked at Helvoetsluys, on board an American
+ship, on the 17th of May, in the evening, and on the 24th saw Land's
+End, Cornwall, vanish in the misty distance, and bade farewell to
+Europe.
+
+Even when we were in latitude 48 deg. 40', and for several days
+afterwards, we had very unfavourable weather and violent storms, which
+were succeeded, on the 10th of June, by calms. On such days, shoals of
+dolphins crowded round the ship, and some men got on the bowsprit to
+throw the harpoon at them. The mate was at length so fortunate as to
+drive his harpoon through the body of one of these monsters of the
+deep, an event which was hailed with loud cheers. By the aid of
+several sailors the heavy prey was drawn upon deck. The animal, after
+it was wounded, made desperate efforts to free itself, and the harpoon
+had nearly given way, when the fish was secured by a rope thrown under
+the pectoral fins.
+
+[pg. 2] On the following day we had some of the flesh dressed as steaks,
+which we found to be very good; indeed, we preferred them to all other
+meat. I did not know, at that time, that I should soon find dog's
+flesh relishing! It is necessary to remove the blubber immediately;
+because, if this precaution be neglected, the flesh contracts a taste
+of train oil. The liver in particular is excellent.
+
+On the same day we were to the south of the bank of Newfoundland, and,
+therefore, steered in nearly a northerly direction. On the 19th we
+were in a thick fog. White and other petrels flew round us, with some
+gulls, and birds resembling sea swallows, with a forked tail. We
+sounded, but found no bottom. On the 20th, however, we were on the
+bank, where, at half-past eight in the morning, the temperature of the
+air was +5-1/4 deg. Reaumur, and that of the water, +2-3/4 deg. At two
+in the afternoon, with thick fog, the temperature of the air was +8 deg.;
+that of the water, +4 deg. We then had a calm, and sounded in thirty-five
+fathoms. Large whales and flocks of sea-birds showed that we were on
+the bank. A hook and line being thrown out, we caught a fine cod, from
+whose stomach clams were taken, which served as a bait for other fish.
+We were on the middle of the lower point of the great bank, when large
+dolphins, quite black, called by the Americans blackfish, swam rapidly
+past in long lines, alternating with porpoises, which threw up white
+foam as they leaped and tumbled on the waves. A diver was shot while
+swimming, and flocks of black petrels hovered round us. A dead calm
+succeeding, a boat was put out to give chase to the latter. Fat was
+thrown out to entice the birds, and many of the little black petrel,
+(_Procellaria Pelagica_), were shot, and also some of the birds,
+called by Charles Bonaparte,[17] _Thalassidroma Wilsonii_, which very
+nearly resemble each other in colour, as well as in shape. A snow
+white gull (probably _Larus eburneus_) flew about the ship. On the
+26th of June, we had been just forty days at sea, and at noon were off
+the lower part of Sable Island bank, in fifty-five fathoms, but did
+not see the island itself. We steered towards Nova Scotia, but the
+wind soon forced us in a southerly direction. We had many indications
+of the vicinity of land, and from this time we proceeded more
+satisfactorily, till the 3rd of July, at noon, when, to the joy of
+all, we descried land. Cape Cod Bay lay to the south of us, about
+fifteen miles distant. It showed low sandhills, with dark bushes on
+them. About two o'clock we could distinguish a lighthouse of moderate
+height, with a wind-mill, and several other buildings. As the wind was
+unfavourable, we were obliged to tack often, in order to sail into the
+great bay of Massachusetts, which we did in the finest and most lovely
+weather. The cool of the evening had succeeded the heat of the day;
+the dark blue mirror of the sea shone around us, moved only by a
+gentle breeze, while a few white or dark brown sails hastened to the
+coast, which was already veiled in the evening mist.
+
+Sublime repose prevailed in this extensive and grand scene, our ship
+alone was in a state of activity. Various preparations were made for
+the approaching landing, while we Europeans looked eagerly at the
+distance. I had hoped in vain for a sight of the famous sea serpent;
+it [pg. 3] would not shew itself. I had, in the sequel, opportunities to
+speak with several American naturalists on the subject, but they all
+looked upon the story as a fable.
+
+The moon rose in the utmost splendour, and lighted up the unagitated
+surface of the sea, and the fishing-boats which lay at anchor. Before
+midnight we saw Boston lighthouse, and soon afterwards several other
+such lights on the coast, which are a most welcome sight, and increase
+the impatience of the stranger in a remote quarter of the globe.
+
+The following day (4th of July), on which I landed for the second time
+in the New World, was the anniversary of the day on which America
+proclaimed its independence. Early in the morning, the salutes of
+artillery resounded from the coasts, which we now saw clearly before
+us. In the centre, in the direction of the city of Boston, was the
+white lighthouse, with its black roof, on a small rocky island,[18]
+and around it several little picturesque islands, partly of white
+sand, with plots of grass; partly rocks, which adorn the beautiful
+bay. At a distance we saw some low mountains, the coast covered with
+numerous villages, obscured by the smoke of the gunpowder, and numbers
+of ships and boats sailing in every direction, all adorned with gay
+flags in honour of the day. We passed in succession several islands,
+the lighthouse, the telegraph, and drew nearer and nearer to the coast
+of the Continent, diversified with gentle eminences covered with corn,
+or beautifully green as in England: and here and there, in the bays
+and inlets, adorned with lofty trees. These coasts, with the numerous
+white buildings of the towns and villages, presented a most charming
+scene in the splendour of the morning sun. At length the long-expected
+pilot came on board, and in the bay, on our right, we saw the city of
+Boston, and many steam-boats before it. The sea had no longer the blue
+colour, but the green tinge which it has on all coasts, and was
+covered with medusae, and the leaves of the sea grass, which grows on
+these shores. The heat was very great, 18 deg. in the shade, by Reaumur's
+thermometer, on board the ship, when we cast anchor at India Wharf,
+Boston, on the forty-eighth day of our voyage. The temperature in this
+oblong basin, which is surrounded with large magazines of naval
+stores, was by no means agreeable at the moment of our arrival; we,
+therefore, left the ship as soon as possible, and repaired to the
+Commercial Coffee House, where we took up our quarters.
+
+Boston, an extensive city, with above 80,000 inhabitants,[19] reminded
+me, at first sight, of one of the old English towns; but various
+differences soon appeared. The streets are partly long and broad,
+partly narrow and irregular, with good flag pavement for foot
+passengers; the buildings are of brick or stone; but in a great
+portion of the old town the houses are of wood; the roofs are, for the
+most part, covered with shingles; the chimneys resemble those in
+England, but do not seem to be so lofty; the dark colours of the
+buildings give the city, on the whole, a gloomy appearance. [pg. 4]
+There are many important buildings and churches, which have been
+described by numerous travellers. In the front of the houses there are
+frequently little plots of garden, next the street, in the English
+fashion, planted with tall, shady trees, and flowers. Strangers will
+immediately look for American plants, especially for those species of
+trees which are generally cultivated in Europe; but, instead of them,
+they will observe only European trees, such as Lombardy poplars,
+Babylonian willows, syringa hibiscus, chestnuts, elms, &c., and it was
+with much difficulty that I found some stems of the catalpa, which was
+just then on the point of flowering, and some other native trees.
+Besides the little grass plots, planted with flowers, in the front of
+the houses, there are, in Boston, many plantations and avenues of very
+tall and shady elms, which, like the same species in England, are
+remarkably vigorous and flourishing. Among these avenues, the
+principal is that called the _Commons_, where there were fireworks in
+the evening of the 4th of July.
+
+Washington-street is looked upon as the finest and longest street in
+Boston; its length is nearly equal to that of the whole city. Here, as
+in the first cities of Europe, there are numerous fine and elegant
+shops, with the most costly articles; and the productions of the West
+Indies. Cocoa-nuts, oranges, bananas, &c., are nowhere to be found so
+fresh, and in such perfection as in the seaports of North America. On
+account of the celebration of this day, most of the shops were closed;
+but then the entire population seemed to throng the streets, and the
+gay crowd was very interesting to strangers, as it was not difficult
+to catch the general features. Though a great part of the Americans
+have much of the English stamp, there are, however, some essential
+differences. The peculiar character of the English countenance seems
+to have disappeared in America, in the strange climate; the men are of
+a slenderer make, and of taller stature; a general expression of the
+physiognomy seems to be wanting. The women are elegant, and have
+handsome features, but frequently a paleness, which does not indicate
+a salubrious climate, or a healthy judicious way of living.[20] Straw
+hats, trimmed with black or green ribbons, were in general use. Cloth
+was much worn, and everything was according to the newest English and
+French fashions. Among the busy throng were a great number of negroes,
+who, in the Northern and Eastern States, have been made free. Not far
+from the public walks was a small narrow street, almost entirely
+inhabited by negroes and their hybrids. The stranger in Boston looks
+in vain for the original American race of the Indians. Instead of its
+former state of nature, this country now shows a mixture of all
+nations, which is rapidly proceeding in the unjustifiable expulsion
+and extirpation of the aborigines, which began on the arrival of the
+Europeans in the New World, and has unremittingly continued.
+
+After we had enjoyed a hasty view of the city, we returned to our inn,
+where we had an opportunity of making ourselves acquainted with many
+new customs, differing from those of Europe. It must be confessed that
+the arrangements in the large and much frequented inns of [pg. 5] the
+great towns in the United States, are, in many respects, inferior to
+those of Europe. The rooms are very small, and all have beds in them:
+parlours, that is, rooms without beds, must be hired separately. The
+hours for meals are fixed--three times in the day; and the signal is
+usually given, two or three times, by ringing a bell. In general, a
+number of persons habitually take their meals in these inns; they
+besiege the house before the appointed time arrives, and, when the
+signal is given, they rush tumultuously into the eating-room; every
+one strives to get before the other, and, for the most part, the crowd
+of guests is far too great, in proportion to the number of the black
+attendants. Then every one takes possession of the dish that he can
+first lay his hands on, and in ten minutes all is consumed; in laconic
+silence the company rise from table, put on their hats, and the busy
+gentlemen hasten away, whom you see all the day long posted before
+the inns, or at the fire-side in the lower rooms, smoking cigars and
+reading the colossal newspapers. The hat, which the Americans seldom
+lay aside, except in the company of the women, is always taken off at
+table, which is certainly no small exertion in this land of perfect
+liberty, as Captain Morrell expresses it.[21] Elegance of dress is far
+more common in America than in Europe; but then this is all that the
+gentleman in America cares about, when he has finished his mercantile
+business, read the newspaper, and performed his part in the government
+of the State. I have often been surprised at the crowd of idle
+gentlemen before and in the American inns, who spend the whole day in
+total inactivity; and these elegant loiterers are, in fact, a
+characteristic feature of these inns. Here, too, there is a peculiar
+arrangement, which many travellers have noticed, and which we do not
+meet with in ours--I mean the bar-room, where a man stationed behind
+the bar, mixes compounds, and sells all sorts of beverages, in which a
+quantity of ice and of freshly gathered peppermint leaves are
+employed. Very agreeable cooling liquors are here prepared, which the
+heat of the climate calls for. In the evening the European is
+surprised at being desired to pull off his shoes before a number of
+people in the bar-room, and to exchange them for slippers, which are
+piled up in large heaps. The attendance is, in general, indifferent.
+There are scarcely any white servants, or, at least, they are almost
+useless; all menial offices must be performed by blacks, who, though
+free people, are still held in contempt by the Americans, who so
+highly estimate the dignity of man, and form a rejected caste, like
+the Parias in India.
+
+At the approach of evening, on the 4th of July, the whole population
+of Boston was in motion; but the streets were soon entirely deserted,
+and all the inhabitants had collected in the promenade, called the
+Commons. The sight was highly interesting. An extensive piece of
+ground, covered with green sward, stretches in a gentle slope to the
+water, and is surrounded by avenues of lofty, shady elms. Numerous
+paths cross each other in the centre, and here there is a gigantic
+elm, with a wide-spreading crown, measuring from thirty to forty paces
+in diameter. We regretted that the great crowd of people rendered it
+impossible to approach this fine tree, on [pg. 6] this busy evening. All
+Boston, rich and poor, was here assembled, in the most elegant
+dresses. Groups were sitting, or lying in the grass; rows of tables
+and little stalls were set out, where there was a real oyster feast,
+in which the people indulged to an extent that rendered the appearance
+of the tables anything but inviting. As it grew dark, there was a very
+indifferent display of fireworks, on the eminence, in honour of the
+day, the expense of which was defrayed by subscription. Several
+companies of city militia had previously paraded the streets; they are
+all volunteers, who equip themselves, and that in a very superior
+manner; but their uniforms are very gay and motley, as may be
+expected, where every one is left to follow his own taste. Each
+company, or troop, had a different uniform--one red, another blue,
+and, in part, richly embroidered with gold. There were very few men in
+a company. It seemed very strange that the musicians, who preceded
+them, were, for the most, in plain clothes of all colours, with round
+hats. "The Yankee-doodle," the favourite popular song of the
+Americans, was heard in different directions; and it is much to the
+credit of this motley assemblage, that there was no impropriety of
+conduct or unseemly noise. The effect of the light on the mixed crowd
+of whites and negroes was very interesting, and we enjoyed the scene
+till the coolness and damp of the night air made us retire to our inn.
+
+On the following morning, the shops were opened, and Boston resumed
+its usual appearance of commercial activity. Our baggage was put on
+board a schooner bound to New York, to which city I wished to go by
+land. Our next excursion was to the monument on Bunker's Hill, from
+which there is the best view of the surrounding country.
+
+Early in the morning we got into our carriages, and drove rapidly
+through the streets, refreshed by the cool morning breeze, where many
+wagons were arriving with the productions of the environs. We noticed
+vehicles of various descriptions, with four or two wheels, often with
+an awning of linen, or leather, open at the sides, and drawn by two or
+four horses. The drivers, generally in a white summer dress, with
+straw hats, sit on a bear skin, which is here worth eight or ten
+dollars. On the causeway, out of the city, the dust was troublesome,
+but a number of water-carts (like those used in the streets of London)
+were already preparing to water the road.
+
+Boston is joined to the continent by a narrow tongue of land, at the
+two sides of which creeks, or bays run into the land. Over these
+creeks there are several long wooden bridges, made to draw up in the
+middle, one of which leads, in a north-west direction, to the
+neighbouring town of Charlestown; another, more to the south, to
+Cambridge, where there is a college, or university. All these places
+have been described by several travellers. We took the road through
+Charlestown, to the Navy Yard, close to which is the eminence on which
+the Bunker's Hill monument is erected. The hill is called Breed's
+Hill, and immediately beyond it is Bunker's Hill, where the English
+troops were posted during the battle fought in 1775. The Americans
+were repulsed, and lost their leader, who was a physician. The
+monument in memory of this action [pg. 7] has been begun on the
+foremost, or Breed's Hill. The granite (Quincy granite) employed in it
+is found in the neighbourhood, and is of a grey colour.
+
+It was intended, originally, that this monument should be 210 feet
+high; it is now meant to be only 180 feet high. What is already done
+is a pyramid between fifty and sixty feet in height, which was covered
+with a temporary wooden roof. Withinside, a convenient stone staircase
+leads to the top, and from the small windows in the roof, there is an
+incomparable view over the city of Boston, Charlestown, the two
+inlets, the long bridges, the Bay of Boston, with its diversified
+islands, and the ships with their white swelling sails, coming from,
+and bound to, all parts of the world. Looking into the country, there
+is an alternation of verdant hills, numerous villages, and dark woods;
+the whole forming a highly picturesque landscape. Cattle were grazing
+near the monument, on the green hill; a well-dressed boy was employed
+in milking the cows.[22]
+
+From Bunker's Hill we went to Cambridge, and had, on this road, the
+first sight of an American landscape. Meadows, partly covered with
+arundinaceous plants, corn-fields, and European fruit trees,
+alternated with small thickets and groves. The apples that grow here
+are said to be yellow, and not particularly good; they are chiefly
+used to make cider. On almost all these fruit trees we saw
+caterpillars' nests of extraordinary size, they being often a foot and
+more in diameter. The butterfly which produces them must be in vast
+numbers, and it is surprising that more care is not taken to destroy
+them. The road was bordered with trees, as is generally the case here;
+we observed _Celtis occidentalis_, Lombardy poplars, partly lopped,
+and not growing to any great height. The thickets consisted of oaks,
+with various deeply indented leaves, in general of a beautiful shining
+green; different kinds of walnut, ash, and elm, which always attain a
+great height here, and, where they stand free, the stems are clothed
+with thick boughs down to the ground. The low thickets were of a
+bright green, and in adjacent meadows, which were partly marshy, grew
+plants, much resembling those of Europe, such as _Ranunculus_,
+_Pyrethrum_, several with white flowers of the genus _Syngenesia_;
+both a white clover and a red clover, common with us, seemed to be
+generally cultivated, as well as potatoes, corn, and maize. This part
+of the country has, on the whole, the European character--like
+England, for instance--but it is even now more wooded, and pines of
+different kinds give a variety: the population, too, is distributed in
+a different manner. In one of the nearest thickets, a little songster
+(_Sylvia aestiva_), and some other birds, reminded me that I was not in
+Europe, but on the borders of the northern part of the New World, and
+the beautiful Icterus Baltimore flew to the higher thickets; and I
+very well distinguished its black and bright red plumage. These new
+objects gave [pg. 8] us great pleasure, and we only regretted that we
+could not immediately pursue them. On the summit of the gentle
+eminences we came to Cambridge College, which is very agreeably
+situated on a verdant lawn, shaded with trees, and surrounded by
+avenues of elms, Weymouth pines, maples, ash, planes, and other shady
+trees. The buildings stand separately; and in all the gardens of the
+neat habitations, we observed, in general, European plants--the rose,
+syringa, hibiscus, and but few American plants, of which the trumpet
+tree was not then in blossom. My visit might have been very
+interesting if I had known that Mr. Nuttal,[23] one of the most active
+naturalists and travellers in North America, held an office in this
+college.
+
+On our return to Boston, we visited many of the curiosities of the
+city, which are enumerated in various works. Among them I mention only
+the New England Museum,[24] as in part, at least, an institution for
+natural history, but where the expectation of the stranger is
+grievously disappointed. These museums, as they are styled, in all the
+larger cities of the United States, except, perhaps, the Peale Museum,
+at Philadelphia, are an accumulation of all sorts of curiosities, the
+selection of which is most extraordinary. Here we find specimens of
+natural history; stiff, awkward, wax figures; mathematical and other
+instruments, models, bad paintings and engravings, caricatures; nay,
+even the little prints out of our journals of the fashions, &c., hung
+up without any order. Among the animals there are some interesting
+specimens, but without any ticket or further direction. This
+collection was placed in several stories of a lofty house, in narrow
+passages, rooms, and closets, connected by many flights of steps; and
+to attract the public, a man played on the harpsichord during our
+visit--a concert which could have no great charms for us.
+
+Boston, however, has much that is worthy of notice, and numerous
+excellent institutions, respecting which the many descriptive works
+may be consulted, which treat on the subject more in detail than a
+passing traveller can do. As my time was limited, I took places in a
+stage-coach that was to set out at noon for Providence, from Bunker's
+coach-office, at the Marlborough hotel. The establishment of
+stage-coaches, and the mode of travelling in this country, have been
+accurately described by Duke Bernhard of Saxe Weimar;[25] I therefore
+merely say, that we went in a commodious stage, with nine seats
+inside, and four good horses, which carried us at a rapid pace from
+Boston to New Providence, forty-one miles distant, where we embarked
+for New York.
+
+The causeway was a good, solid, broad road, paved in some places, and
+very dusty at this dry season; it led over low hills and plains. Near
+the city there is a great number of pretty, and some elegant country
+houses; and as they became less numerous, they were succeeded by the
+houses of the farmers and planters, which are spread over the whole
+country. All these farm-houses are slightly built, boarded, and roofed
+with shingles; often grey, of the natural colour of the wood; but many
+of those belonging to the richer class are neatly painted, and
+variously ornamented. The walls, even of large buildings of this kind,
+are extremely thin, and one would think they [pg. 9] must be too slight
+for the cold winters of this country. It seems quite inconceivable
+that, throughout the United States, you find only open fireplaces; and
+very rarely good stoves, against which the Americans are prejudiced,
+because they are not aware of their great superiority. The business of
+the occupant is painted on the house in large letters, as in England
+and France.
+
+The road by which we travelled was often bounded by hedges, or by
+walls of blocks of granite, or other kinds of stone, on which
+plantain, elder, stagshorn, sumach, &c., were growing. In the low
+marshy meadows were willows, a kind of reed mace, cotton grass,
+rushes, and, in the water, adder's tongue. Near the road, the hills,
+which here and there gradually rise to a great elevation, are covered
+with shrubs and trees, among which we noticed some firs, mixed with
+the other trees.
+
+Juniper trees, from fifteen to twenty feet high, grew in all these
+woods, partly as underwood. In the low grounds, near the road, we
+observed luxuriant tufts of various kinds of oak, walnut trees--some
+with large shining leaves, chestnuts, now in blossom, and many other
+kinds of trees cultivated in European gardens. Wild vines, with the
+under side of the leaves whitish, twine round many of the bushes; but,
+in these northern parts, they do not attain a great height. These
+thickets alternate with open tracts of land, where the peasants,
+tanned by the powerful American sun, wearing large straw hats, were
+busily employed in making hay.
+
+However small and poor the dwellings, we still saw at the windows, and
+before the doors, the women, most elegantly and fashionably dressed,
+engaged in their household employments. In this land of freedom,
+nobody, of course, will allow his neighbour to have an advantage over
+him; hence we often see silk gowns, and the newest fashions of all
+kinds, in laughable contrast with the poor little habitations. Small
+country carts pass the traveller, in which, beside the owner, who
+drives, sits a country lady, handsomely attired, who looks like a copy
+of some _journal des modes_. The dress of the countrymen is, in
+general, not so fine, but is, in some degree, according to the man's
+circumstances.
+
+We were much pleased with some thick forests of oak, with beautiful
+glossy (often deeply indented) leaves, of a great variety of forms.
+Forests, consisting wholly of the Weymouth pine, alternated with the
+oak. The trunks were large, but the height of the tree was not great
+in proportion. Among them there was always a number of dead trees;
+others had a quantity of bearded moss hanging on them; in a word,
+though so near to the habitations of man, and in a cultivated country,
+they had more of the wild character of unreclaimed nature than our
+European forests. In many places there were openings into dark
+forests, to a great distance; and, now and then, into lovely valleys,
+with a lake or a river, where the white buildings had a very
+picturesque appearance, contrasted with the dark woods and the green
+meadows. Mr. Bodmer, however, was not satisfied with all these
+landscapes: he had expected to find, at once, in America, forms
+differing from those of Europe; but these must be looked for under
+another zone; for, in [pg. 10] North America, the general character of
+the vegetation resembles that of Europe. In some parts, we remarked in
+the meadows large stones, something like those in Westphalia, or in
+the Westerwald, in Germany.
+
+We changed horses at three places, at one of which we had dinner,
+which, as in England, was ready when the passengers arrived. The
+regulations here have an advantage over those in most parts of Europe,
+inasmuch as fees are nowhere given, so that you cannot be molested by
+the importunity of the driver: on the other hand, the coachman dines
+at the same table as the passengers. You are, however, pretty secure
+against the conversation of unpolished people, because the Americans
+are usually mute at table.
+
+Towards evening we reached Pawtucket, a neat town on the river of the
+same name, in the state of Massachusetts. The place has manufactures
+of various kinds, and is animated by trade and industry. The river
+empties itself into Narraganset bay, and is said to have falls of
+fifty feet. We soon travelled the few miles from this place to
+Providence. The evening being fine, the journey was very pleasant: the
+road was full of stages, cabriolets, farmers' wagons, and smart
+country ladies, whose veils on their large fashionable hats waved in
+the wind; they were generally seated in little chaise carts, the seats
+of which were covered with bear skins.
+
+At Providence, which we reached before night, we put up at Franklin
+House, a respectable inn. A crowd of idle gentlemen and other curious
+persons stared at us, and laughed in our faces, when they found, by
+our pronunciation, that we were foreigners. We had to pass some days
+here, waiting for the return of a steam-boat from New York; we
+therefore employed this interval in exploring the town and
+neighbourhood.
+
+Providence is a busy town, the capital of the state of Rhode Island,
+and situated on an arm of the sea. It is built partly on sandy hills,
+partly on the low ground next the sea, has some good new streets, and
+a brisk trade, as appears from the many ships at anchor. There is no
+want of handsome shops, and several public buildings deserve notice;
+such as twelve churches, several colleges, and other public
+institutions, which I forbear to enumerate. In the churches the
+singular style of the architecture calls for censure:--they are of
+brick, with steeples variously ornamented, but often painted with
+glaring colours; for instance, the lower part reddish brown, with the
+frames of the windows and of the doors white; the upper part bright
+yellow with white. There is a considerable degree of luxury at
+Providence. The women appear in the streets in the most expensive
+dresses; and the country ladies (farmers' wives), whom I have so often
+mentioned, dressed in silk, and wearing large straw bonnets and veils,
+bring milk to market in little carts. This love of finery is quite a
+characteristic trait in the American people; but it is, at the same
+time, an indication of prosperity; for it is true that, in this
+country, there are neither poor nor beggars; and if you see people
+doing nothing, they are generally new comers from Europe. Negroes and
+their coloured descendants are more numerous here than in Boston and
+the northern parts.
+
+[pg. 11] The next day was Sunday, in the observance of which the
+Americans are very scrupulous. All the people, with their books under
+their arms, proceeded to the churches, the bells of which were very
+slowly tolled. The streets were quite still on this day, and all the
+shops closed; but, then, numerous carriages and cabriolets, filled
+with finely-dressed people, were in motion. We strolled about the
+surrounding country, which, in general, has a dead and rather sterile
+appearance. Here, too, we saw, almost exclusively, European trees and
+flowers in the gardens; there were, however, some peculiar to the
+country, among which the magnolia was now in blossom.
+
+Intelligence had been received from New York that the cholera had
+broken out there, and that numbers of the inhabitants were leaving the
+city. On the arrival of the Boston steam-boat, the Captain confirmed
+this unwelcome news, which, however, did not deter us from embarking
+in this fine vessel for New York. On the 8th of July, in the
+afternoon, we went on board the steam-boat, which had above 100
+passengers. The Boston was a large, handsome vessel, about the size of
+a frigate. It had three decks; in the lower part was the large dining
+and sleeping room, where above 100 persons were very well provided
+for. On the middle deck there was a cabin for the ladies, with
+twenty-four beds. The numerous attendants were negroes and mulattoes
+of both sexes, all free people. The vessel had two low-pressure
+engines, which are thought to be less dangerous than the high-pressure
+engines, though the Americans affirm the contrary. On the upper deck
+was a pavilion, with glass windows, in which, when the weather was
+unfavourable, the company could sit and enjoy the prospect.
+
+When all the passengers were on board, one of the engines was set to
+work, and when we got further from shore, the other also. The low,
+sandy coast, partly covered with trees, where towns alternated with
+forests, quickly disappeared. The sky was dark and cloudy, and a cool,
+fresh breeze blew. We reached the strongly fortified town of Newport,
+where many small vessels lay at anchor. The place is distinguished by
+three forts, and other fortifications, and a lighthouse. When twilight
+set in we were already in sight of the open sea, which, however,
+remained visible for a short time only, because we steered to the
+right, into the channel between the continent and Long Island.
+
+On the morning of the 9th of July, the sky was gloomy, and the sea
+much agitated. On our left we had the coast of Long Island, which, in
+general, is not high, but has some more elevated parts, with an
+alternation of sand, bushes, and brushwood. Some very picturesque and
+diversified inlets run into the land. The channel becomes gradually
+narrower, and the beauty of the landscape increases in the same
+proportion. One narrow place is called Hellgate: there are here many
+rocky islets covered with sumach bushes (_Rhus typhinum_). At length,
+turning round a point of the continent, a new and most picturesque
+scene presented itself. We were in what is called the East River, an
+arm of the sea, open towards New York, which is connected with the
+Hudson or North River, one of the most beautiful rivers in North
+America. At the conflux [pg. 12] of both, lies the city. The banks of
+the East River are like an English park, shaded by beautiful copses
+and groups of lofty trees: the ground was clothed with the brightest
+and most luxuriant verdure, with tall tulip trees, planes, Babylonian
+willows, Lombardy poplars, and many others, alternating with green
+meadows, where there are neat, and often elegant country-houses; and
+the eye is charmed by many fine prospects and a great diversity of
+scenery. Passing the Navy Yard, which is situated on a point of land,
+the great city of New York, with its innumerable masts, lies before
+you. As you approach and enter the broad and extensive piece of water
+formed by the conflux of the East and North Rivers, you see the whole
+mass of houses, with countless ships, which line both the banks to a
+considerable distance, with a forest of masts, to which few other
+cities can present a parallel. The steamer landed us at a spot where,
+notwithstanding the heavy rain, there was a great crowd of people
+collected. Porters, black workmen, and coachmen in abundance, with
+loud cries, and much importunity, offered their services; and we
+immediately proceeded to the American Hotel, a considerable inn, in
+one of the handsomest squares in the city.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] Charles Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino and Musignano
+(1803-1857), a noted ornithologist, was the eldest son of Lucien,
+brother of the great Napoleon. In 1822 he married Joseph Bonaparte's
+daughter, came to the United States, and until 1828 resided with his
+father-in-law, near Philadelphia, making a careful study of the birds
+of that locality. Returning to Italy, he headed the republican forces
+at Rome in the Revolution of 1848, and from 1854 until his death,
+three years later, was director of the Jardin des Plantes, at Paris.
+In the United States, Bonaparte published a supplement to Wilson's
+_Ornithology_, entitled _American Ornithology, or History of the Birds
+of the United States_ (4 volumes, Philadelphia, 1825-33), containing
+more than a hundred species which he had discovered. He wrote numerous
+articles for scientific journals both in this country and Europe.--ED.
+
+[18] See Plate 1, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[19] According to the census of 1830, Boston had 61,392 souls, and
+with Charlestown, Roxbury, and Cambridge, about 80,000.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[20] Vide Mrs. Trollope's "Domestic Manners of the Americans," page 106,
+where the authoress is probably right in many points.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 44, note
+24.
+
+[21] Captain Benjamin Morrell was born on Long Island (1795), entered
+the service of a privateer during the War of 1812-15, was captured by
+the British and held in prison until the declaration of peace. After
+his release he was made captain of a whaling vessel, and in 1832
+published a book of travels entitled, _A Narrative of Four Voyages to
+the South Sea, North and South Pacific Ocean, Chinese Sea, Ethiopic
+and Southern Atlantic Ocean, Indian and Arctic Oceans, Comprising
+Critical Surveys of Coasts and Islands with Sailing Directions_ (New
+York). A critical analysis of the book is given in _American Quarterly
+Review_, xiii, pp. 314 ff.--ED.
+
+[22] The cattle in this part of the country are, in general, large and
+handsome: there are oxen with immense horns, almost as in the
+_Campagna di Roma_, in Italy; and they are also large and fat. Their
+colour is generally brown, as in Germany, but for the most part, a
+very shining yellowish, or reddish brown, often spotted with white.
+The horns of many are turned rather forwards, and round balls are just
+on their tips, that they may not gore with them.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[23] See preface to Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii.--ED.
+
+[24] E. A. Greenwood having (1825) purchased the Columbian Museum,
+founded in Boston in 1795 by Daniel Bowen, erected a building on Court
+Street between Brattle and Cornhill, and started the New England
+Museum. The latter was purchased by Moses Kimball (1839), who seven
+years later constructed the Boston Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts
+building on Tremont Street, near Court, at a cost of a quarter of a
+million dollars. The stock-company theatre operated in connection with
+this institution was long regarded as the best in Boston.--ED.
+
+[25] For the work of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in
+our volume xxi, p. 71, note 47.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+STAY IN NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, AND BORDENTOWN, FROM 9TH TO 16TH JULY
+
+   New York--Bloomingdale--Hoboken--New
+   Brunswick--Trenton--Bordentown--Philadelphia--Fair Mount, with
+   the water-works--Stay at Bordentown--Park of the Count de
+   Survilliers--Excursions in the forests--Return to Philadelphia.
+
+
+New York is but little inferior to the capital cities of Europe, with
+the exception of London and Paris. It has, at present, 220,000
+inhabitants, and its commerce is so extensive, animated, and active,
+that, in this respect, it is scarcely surpassed by any. There are so
+many descriptions of this great city, that to say much on the subject
+would be merely repetition. The first impression that it made on me
+was very striking, on account of the beauty of its situation. In the
+interior the style of building resembles that of many English cities.
+It has one remarkably fine street, called the Broadway, which
+traverses its whole length; other parts are old, and not so handsome.
+In the Broadway, which is the favourite resort of the fashionable
+world, is an uninterrupted line of shops, but little inferior to those
+of London and Paris. The city is extremely animated, and people of all
+nations carry on business here. We were assured that the population
+had been diminished, in a few days, by the emigration of 20,000 of the
+inhabitants, who had fled to other towns for fear of the cholera.[26]
+It is well known that this lamentable disease had been very fatal in
+Canada, and had now penetrated into the Northern States of the Union:
+it was raging in Albany, on the Hudson, at Detroit, and on the great
+lakes, so that it seemed as if it would defeat our project of
+beginning our journey to the interior by that route. This had been my
+plan, in which the recommendations of our worthy countryman, Mr.
+Astor,[27] would have been of great service, as he is the founder and
+head of the American Fur Company, which has spread its trading
+stations over the whole of the interior of North America. I formed
+numerous interesting acquaintances, in a short time, in New York.
+Several estimable fellow-countrymen, Messrs. Gebhard and Schuchart,
+and Mr. Iselin, did their utmost to afford us their counsel and
+assistance. Mr. Schmidt, the Prussian consul, contributed not a little
+to make our stay in this city agreeable; and so did Mr. Meier and
+other of our German friends. Mr. Schmidt has a country-house at
+Bloomingdale, [pg. 14] where we passed some very pleasant days in the
+circle of his amiable family. Mrs. Schmidt, an American lady, had
+visited Europe and travelled in Germany, and remembered, with
+pleasure, the banks of the Rhine.
+
+The house at which Mr. Schmidt resides in the summer, is charmingly
+situated on the banks of that picturesque river, the Hudson, seven
+miles from the town. The pretty dwelling-house, with a veranda all
+round, covered with passion flowers, honeysuckles, the red trumpet
+flower, and other beautiful climbing plants, stands on a verdant lawn,
+shaded by lofty trees, among which we observed the finest kinds of
+this country, the trunks of which were slender, and straight as
+pillars. The park extends to the Hudson, where the tall sassafras,
+tulip, oak, walnut, and other trees, protected us by their shade;
+while the large steam-boats, rapidly passing on the bright surface of
+the Hudson, had a very picturesque effect. Mr. Schmidt had the
+kindness to afford us an admirable view of what is called the island
+of New York. Near Bloomingdale is a large and very well conducted
+lunatic asylum, from the lofty roof of which we enjoyed an
+inexpressibly beautiful, extensive, and interesting prospect of the
+whole country. From this spot we overlooked the East and North Rivers,
+the broad bend of the latter, and its high banks towards Albany; to
+the north, dark forests, with detached dwellings and country seats;
+and, in all directions, luxuriant green thickets, towns, villages, and
+handsome country-houses. At our feet, contrasting with that rich and
+noble view, full of variety and life, we looked down on the buildings
+and court-yards of the hospital, in which we could observe the
+patients; while, in another enclosed space, Virginian deer were
+sporting and playing. This asylum is a very excellent establishment,
+and contains a great number of patients: the physician resides in the
+house, and was so good as to show us over it. New York has many such
+useful institutions,--hospitals, poorhouses, and houses of correction,
+in which latter the young, who may still be reclaimed, are not mixed
+with the old, hardened offenders, but are kept apart. There is an
+asylum for the deaf and dumb, &c.
+
+Our returning from Bloomingdale, in the evening, was extremely
+agreeable, the weather being delightful. In the dark thickets and
+woods were swarms of fire-flies; and from the marshes and pools came
+the croakings of the frogs, with which we were not yet familiar; but
+we did not hear that of the celebrated bull-frog.
+
+The most beautiful spots and environs of New York are indebted for the
+attraction of their views, to the variety of the waters surrounding
+the city: thus, for instance, at the end of the Broadway, is the
+Castle Garden, formerly a circular fort, the walls of which are
+converted into a public walk. From the wall itself is a fine prospect
+of the noble harbour, the neighbouring city, the banks, the opposite
+coast, and the broad river, where ships of every kind and of all
+nations are coming and going. Another favourite place of resort is the
+garden at Hoboken, the name of which indicates its Dutch origin, for
+it is well known that the Dutch founded the first considerable
+settlement in this place, numerous traces of which still remain.
+[pg. 15] The communication with Hoboken is by means of a steam-boat. The
+garden extends along the banks of the Hudson, and the lofty trees and
+thickets are pleasing and interesting to the stranger. The tall
+hickory and other kinds of walnut trees had now their fruit half
+grown. Storax trees (_Liquidambar styraciflua_), with their maple-like
+leaves, grow very high and straight, _Gleditschia triacanthos_ and
+_inermis_, with wild vines, climbing round them; and many other fine
+forest trees afford protection against the heat of the summer. Many
+European trees and shrubs, too, have been planted here. Thus we saw a
+hedge of whitethorn, the growth of which, however, was stunted by
+other wood. Many birds, whose notes were unknown to us, were heard in
+these shades. On my first visit to New York, I was interested by some
+collections of natural history; for instance, two museums, one of
+which, belonging to Mr. Peale, is, however, much inferior to that of
+his brother at Philadelphia. Being anxious to see Philadelphia, I
+hastened to set out for that city, and left New York, where the
+cholera was daily spreading more and more.
+
+On the 16th, at six in the morning, I embarked on board the Swan
+steam-boat, which was so crowded with passengers that there was
+scarcely room to sit down. On our left we had Staten Land; but we soon
+turned to the right, into the river Raritan, on which New Brunswick is
+situated.
+
+New Brunswick is a village, consisting of many straggling streets,
+where all the passengers landed from the steam-boat, and took their
+seats in stage-coaches, drawn by four horses, which were standing
+ready to receive them. The heat was great, the company very mixed, and
+I had the misfortune to have noisy and disagreeable companions. A long
+hill, with steep sides, which appears to consist of a reddish clay,
+extends along the water-side to New Brunswick. On the eminence above
+the town it was naked and rather sterile; the road was bad, and we
+were roughly jolted as we drove rapidly along. Meadows, fields of
+clover, rye, oats, and maize succeeded each other in the vicinity of
+the habitations, as well as plantations of European fruit trees, full
+of large caterpillar's nests, but flourishing in the greatest
+luxuriance. The beautiful red trumpet flower partly covered the sides
+of the houses, about which Italian poplars and Babylonian willows were
+frequently planted; the latter are often very high and spreading. The
+cattle are partly without horns. Sheep and swine were numerous.
+
+While we were changing horses at Kingston, negro and other children
+offered milk, little cakes, and half-ripe fruit for sale, of which a
+great deal was bought. Some German peasants, lately arrived from
+Europe, who were welcomed by their relations, previously settled in
+the country, completely filled a couple of stages, and were not a
+little merry, in their low German language, at which Americans laughed
+heartily. From this place the country was rather woody. Here and there
+were fine forests, the shade of which was very refreshing in this hot
+weather. The growth of timber was very fine. A pretty wild rose
+blossomed among the bushes in the meadows. Oak, sassafras, walnut,
+chestnut, plane, and tulip trees, displayed their luxuriant foliage of
+various and often glossy green. The tulip trees, when young, are
+distinguished by [pg. 16] their pyramidal shape and beautiful light
+green leaves; they were at this time covered with their seed vessels,
+which were full-grown, but not ripe. The branching phytolacea, and the
+thorn-apple with its large white flowers, which were now open, as well
+as several plants brought from Europe, grew in abundance by the
+road-side, also species of sumach, partly entwined with wild vine; and
+in the forest was underwood of _Rhododendron maximum_. We passed
+rapidly through Prince Town, and arrived at Trenton, on the Delaware,
+a straggling town, lying among thickets, on the low banks of the
+river. A long, covered wooden bridge led to the opposite bank of this
+broad river, which was animated by ships and boats. Such colossal,
+covered wooden bridges are very common in the United States; and many
+travellers have already described the construction of these useless
+masses of timber. From Trenton, we hastened over a sandy tract to
+another place on the river, opposite to which is Bordentown, and at a
+short distance lay the steam-boat, Trenton, ready to convey us down
+the river to Philadelphia. We descended the fine river Delaware, the
+low, verdant banks of which are covered with many towns, settlements,
+and country houses; here and there, too, with forests of oaks, &c.,
+and of a kind of pine (_pinus rigida_).[28] After taking dinner, at
+which we were waited on by negroes and mulattoes, we reached
+Philadelphia about five or six o'clock.
+
+This city extends a great way along the right bank of the Delaware,
+but has by no means so beautiful and striking an effect as New York.
+It is large and regularly built; the long, straight streets crossing
+each other at right angles. The modern part of the city is handsome,
+consisting of lofty brick buildings, ornamented in the English
+fashion; but the older parts of Philadelphia consist of low, mean
+houses. It is very judicious that, in hot weather, an agreeable shady
+walk is formed by awnings spread before the houses, and that the
+streets are well watered. The water-works are at Fairmount, where
+there is a basin, from which pipes convey the water to every part of
+the city.
+
+The streets which run at right angles to the Delaware are called by
+the names of different kinds of trees--Mulberry Street, Walnut Street,
+Chestnut Street, &c.: the streets which cross them are numbered, First
+Street, Second Street, Third Street, &c. Chestnut Street, without
+doubt the finest, is full of life and traffic. A part of it has, in
+the middle, a shady avenue of lime trees; and, besides, there are, in
+many of the streets, rows of trees which do not yet afford much shade.
+Splendid shops, in almost uninterrupted succession, line the streets,
+and you find here all the manufactures and produce of the other
+quarters of the globe. The ancient, injudicious practice of having the
+churchyards in the towns is still retained in America. They are filled
+with great numbers of whitish monuments, of various forms, often
+planted with high trees, and lie quite exposed to view, being
+separated from the street only by an iron railing. Philadelphia has a
+considerable number of public buildings, especially many churches and
+meeting-houses of [pg. 17] different religious denominations, most of
+which are extremely plain brick buildings, without any external
+ornaments whatever. This country has no history like the Old World,
+and therefore we look in vain for the ancient Gothic cathedrals, and
+those awe-inspiring monuments of past ages, from which the traveller
+in Europe derives so much pleasure and instruction. Besides the
+churches, the principal buildings are the State House, where the
+independence of the country was proclaimed on the 4th of July, 1776,
+the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Exchange, the
+University and the Medical College, the Mint, some hospitals, the
+Deaf and Dumb Asylum, and many others, which it would lead us too far
+to mention here.
+
+Philadelphia would make a more striking impression if we could find a
+spot commanding a view of the whole; but as it lies in the plain
+between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, which unite five miles
+below the city, no such spot is to be found.
+
+It is well known that this city was founded, in 1682, by William Penn,
+a Quaker, who concluded, under an elm tree, which recently fell down
+from age, a convention with the Delaware Indians, the proprietors of
+the soil, by which they ceded to him a tract of land. Philadelphia,
+literally "the city of the brethren" (Quakers), contains people from
+all the nations of Europe, especially Germans, French, and English. In
+some parts of the city, German is almost exclusively spoken. In the
+year 1834, the population consisted of 80,406 whites, and 59,482
+people of colour. I arrived in Philadelphia at an unfavourable moment,
+for the cholera had already manifested itself also in that city.
+Letters of introduction from Europe procured me a kind reception in
+some houses; but, on the other hand, I had not an opportunity of
+becoming acquainted with several scientific gentlemen, because, being
+physicians, they were now particularly engaged. Professor Harlan, M. D.,
+well known to the learned world as an author, was of the number.[29]
+Mr. Krumbhaar, a German, to whom I had letters, received me with much
+kindness, and introduced me to many agreeable acquaintances. He took
+me to the water-works at Fair Mount, one of the most interesting spots
+near the city, which are indeed worth seeing. The road led past the
+House of Correction, where young offenders, who are still capable of
+being reclaimed, are confined. On the bank of the river, there are
+buildings in which large wheels set in motion the machinery by which
+the water is raised to the reservoirs, on an eminence about eighty
+feet high, whence the pipes are carried to all parts of the city. The
+rocky eminence, from which a fine, clear spring rises, is provided
+with stairs and balustrades, and adorned with elegant pavilions, which
+command a view of the water-works, and of the beautiful valley of the
+Schuylkill. It is a favourite promenade, and daily resorted to by
+numbers of persons, as they can have all kinds of refreshments there.
+Beautiful plants, the catalpa, plantain, &c., grow among the rocks
+with great luxuriance, being watered by the springs. We crossed the
+great bridge over the Schuylkill, to return to the city, where I made
+but a short stay, because my fellow-travellers were still detained at
+New York, waiting for our baggage from Boston. As [pg. 18] all the
+roads were crowded with fugitives from New York, it was not a
+favourable moment for travelling; I therefore resolved on an excursion
+to Bordentown, in order to obtain some little knowledge of the forests
+of New Jersey.
+
+I left Philadelphia, on board the Burlington steam-boat, about noon,
+and arrived at Bordentown between four and five o'clock. At this place
+are the estates of the Count de Survilliers (Joseph Buonaparte), who
+had but lately sailed for Europe.[30] The pleasant country house, in
+the fine park, is about 300 paces from the village, near to the high
+road, and near, also, to the iron railway from Amboy to Camden,
+opposite to Philadelphia.[31] Workmen were employed in making this
+road, in doing which, advantage was taken of the hollow of the valley,
+so that the railway was much below the common road, or the street of
+the town. I found some interesting plants in the woods opposite the
+Count's park. There were three or four kinds of oak, among which are
+the _Quercus ferruginea_, with its large, peculiarly shaped leaves;
+the white oak, the leaves of which are the most like the European;
+also, varieties of walnut trees, chestnuts, and the sassafras, a fine,
+tall tree, which was just then in blossom, the leaves of which often
+vary in shape. The undergrowth of this forest, in which pines were
+mixed with other trees, consisted of _Rhododendron maximum_
+(Pennsylvania mountain laurel) and kalmia, the latter of which, in the
+deep shade, was already out of flower; but the former still had its
+large bunches of beautiful white or pale red blossoms, and was from
+ten to fifteen feet high. The stiff, laurel-like, dried leaves of this
+fine plant covered the ground, and crackled as we passed along, which
+reminded me of the Brazilian forests, where this occurs in a much
+greater degree. On open, uncultivated spots, the great mullein
+(_Verbascum thapsus_), with its yellow flowers, and large, woolly
+leaves, grew in great abundance, and likewise the phytolacea. Among
+the thick blackberry bushes, entwined with vines, by the road-side, I
+observed the little striped squirrel, which doubtless climbs to get at
+the fruit.
+
+At ten o'clock, the heat was already so intense that I returned to the
+inn, where I arrived very much fatigued. This house is very pleasantly
+situated on an eminence above the Delaware, at the place where the
+steam-boats arrive, and from which there is a fine view of the arm of
+the river, and the adjacent lowland, covered with woods and thickets.
+A great ornament of this landscape is the white garden-pavilion of
+Count Survilliers, which rises above the thick groves on the left bank
+of the Delaware, above Bordentown. In the cool of the evening I
+usually went to this park. The house itself is a pretty building, on a
+lawn near the water-side, where oleander and orange plants are placed.
+The park is very shady, and extends along the Croswick Creek, towards
+which the bank forms a steep, wildly wooded declivity. In this wood
+there was likewise a thick undergrowth of _Rhododendron maximum_, now
+in full blossom. On an eminence immediately above the river, stands a
+kind of tower, several stories high, upon a terrace, from the gallery
+of which is a fine and extensive view over the low, wooded country,
+and the arms of the river. From this place winding paths lead through
+the gloomy forest of [pg. 19] pine trees, of different varieties, where
+many birds, of kinds unknown to me, were flying about. The cat bird
+(_Turdus felivox_, Vieill.), whose voice has a slight resemblance to
+that of a cat, was very numerous in this place. From the top of the
+wooded bank a sort of bridge has been carried out, a great height
+above the river, and a square place furnished with seats, from which
+you overlook the whole country. An old Canadian pine stands at the
+edge of the bank, some branches of which we carried off, by way of
+memorial. The view from this place is remarkably beautiful; to the
+right and left extends the river, or rather broad brook, which, at
+the feet of the spectator, is covered with water plants. The
+yellow-blossomed _Nymphaea adversus_, and the beautiful _Pontederia
+cordata_ grow here in great abundance. There was plenty of occupation
+for the botanist and the ornithologist, and the sportsman would have
+reason to be satisfied, for in the neighbouring thickets there were
+deer (_Cervus virginianus_), and hares (_Lepus Americanus_), which
+frequently crossed our path.[32]
+
+On my return to Bordentown, I found before the door of the inn a
+number of gentlemen lying in more than easy positions on the benches;
+the chief subject of conversation was the cholera, which filled the
+whole country with terror.
+
+It was precisely the hottest part of summer, and it was scarcely
+possible to protect one's self against the swarms of European flies,
+which are very numerous. On this account there are, in the inns,
+negroes and mulattoes, who attend at table, and give the company rest
+from those troublesome insects, and, at the same time, cool air, by
+fanning them with fans, made of feathers, often those of the peacock.
+Fans are, in fact, an article of luxury, and are purchased in the
+towns; they are made of the tail feathers of the wild turkey, the
+crane, or the swan, of palm leaves, &c. It was so hot in the daytime,
+that it was hardly possible to leave the house; and the cholera,
+therefore, spread rapidly in New York. In this sultry season, the
+evenings were really refreshing, and gave new life both to men and
+animals. When it became dusk, luminous insects flew about, and the
+crickets chirped in notes like those in Europe, but in more rapid
+succession.
+
+On the following day I visited other places and woods in the vicinity
+of Bordentown. The town itself is built in the country fashion, with
+regular, broad, unpaved streets or roads, and the houses lie detached
+from each other, shaded by rows of trees: this is very necessary, for
+now, at 10 o'clock in the morning, Fahrenheit's thermometer, in the
+cool passage of the inn, was at 73 deg. The avenues of trees in the
+town consisted of robinia, paper-mulberry, large-leaved poplars, which
+exude an aromatic gum, weeping willows, and Syrian mallow, which
+latter grow to the height of ten and even fifteen feet. These plants,
+with their beautiful flowers, flourish here in much greater perfection
+than in Germany. In the gardens we observed monarda (Oswego tea),
+[pg. 20] the Indian cress (_tropaeolum_), purple convolvulus, buckthorn
+(_Lycum Europeum_), the climbing trumpet flower, vine, catalpa,
+larkspur, &c.
+
+From Bordentown I sometimes passed beyond the iron railroad, and
+penetrated into the neighbouring forest. Five or six species of oak,
+several kinds of walnut trees, beeches, chestnuts, and dogwood, formed
+the thick wood, the undergrowth of which consisted of _Rhododendron
+maximum_, kalmia, rhus, and tall juniper.
+
+On the 23rd of July I left Bordentown, and returned to Philadelphia,
+as our baggage had not yet arrived from Boston. I made use of this
+interval to examine the museum of Mr. Titian Peale, which contains the
+best collection of natural history in the United States. There is the
+fine large skeleton of the Ohio elephant (_Mastodon, Cuv._), and
+likewise most of the animals of North America, pretty well stuffed.
+Among them I noticed, especially, the bison, the bighorn or wild sheep
+of the rocky mountains, the prairie antelope (_Antilocapra Americana
+Ord._), the elk (_Cervus major_, or _Canadensis_) the grisly bear
+(_Ursus ferox_), and others. Mr. Peale, the owner, accompanied the
+expedition under Major Long to the Rocky Mountains, where he procured
+part of these specimens himself.[33] There are likewise many
+specimens of foreign animals; for instance, a rhinoceros; and the
+collection of Indian dresses, utensils, and arms, is, I think, the
+most important that I have yet seen. I was particularly interested by
+some oil paintings of Indian villages and scenery by Seymour. This
+artist also accompanied Major Long's expedition. Mr. Peale's
+collection deserves precedence above all the public museums in the
+United States, for its more scientific arrangement, and because fewer
+trifling nicknacks have been admitted into it. Mr. Peale has also
+travelled in South America, and his health was still suffering from
+his visit to that country.
+
+As the study of the aboriginal nations of America had peculiar
+attractions for me, I searched the shops of all the booksellers and
+printsellers, for good representations of that interesting race; but
+how much was I astonished, that I could not find, in all the towns of
+this country, one good, that is, characteristic representation of
+them, but only some bad or very indifferent copper-plates, which are
+in books of travels! It is incredible how much the original American
+race is hated and neglected by the foreign usurpers. Only a few
+eminent men, who have felt this reproach and defect, are now exerting
+themselves to rescue from oblivion the neglected materials, scarce as
+they now are, after it has become next to impossible to collect
+anything complete respecting the history of many exterminated Indian
+tribes. Messrs. Morse, Smith Barton, Edwin James, Say, Duponceau,
+Schoolcraft, Cass, McKenney, and some others, are an honourable
+exception in this respect. A fine work, with coloured lithographic
+plates, was contemplated at Philadelphia, which deserves
+encouragement; it was to give the history of the several Indian
+tribes, with portraits of their chiefs, for which the Government was
+ready to furnish all the materials in its possession. It seems that
+this important publication has at length been carried into execution.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] The first recorded death by cholera, in North America, occurred
+on June 8, 1832, at Quebec. The epidemic began raging in northwest
+India in 1827-28. It reached the shores of the Caspian Sea (1829),
+spread throughout Russia (1829-30), reached England (1831), and spread
+to the United States by way of Detroit the following year. Rapidly
+extending throughout the union, it counted its victims in nearly every
+state and territory.--ED.
+
+[27] For a brief sketch of Astor, see Franchere's _Narrative_, in our
+volume vi, p. 186, note 8.--ED.
+
+[28] The Americans report of this pine that, if it is cut down, oaks
+and other trees immediately grow up in its place; and if these are cut
+down, the pines grow up again, and so continually alternating in the
+same manner!--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[29] Richard Harlan (1796-1843) graduated from the medical department
+of the University of Pennsylvania (1818), practiced medicine in
+Philadelphia, and later occupied the chair of comparative anatomy in
+the Philadelphia Museum. He was a member of the Cholera Commission of
+1832, and of many learned societies both in this country and abroad.
+His chief publications were: _Observations on the Genus Salamandra_
+(Philadelphia, 1824), _Fauna Americana_ (1825), _American Herpitology_
+(1827), _Medical and Physical Researches_ (1835), and a translation of
+Gaunal, _History Of Embalming_, with additions (1840).--ED.
+
+[30] Joseph Bonaparte (1768-1844) held many positions of trust under
+his brother Napoleon. He negotiated the treaty of peace between this
+country and France in 1800, and the treaty of Amiens in 1802. He was
+made king of Naples (1806), and king of Spain two years later. In an
+interview with his brother after the battle of Waterloo, arrangements
+were made for a meeting in New York. In the summer of 1815 Joseph
+Bonaparte, under the assumed title of Comte de Survilliers, came to
+the United States and purchased a mansion in Philadelphia, a country
+seat of about a thousand acres, near Bordentown, New Jersey, six miles
+below Trenton, and later a summer home on the edge of the Adirondack
+Mountains. His favorite residence was "Point Breeze," near Bordentown,
+where in 1820 he built what was accounted the finest mansion in the
+state. In 1850, Henry Beckett, the British consul at Philadelphia,
+purchased "Point Breeze," and demolished its mansion. Joseph Bonaparte
+was in Europe from 1832 to 1837; the next two years in this country;
+and in 1841 went to Florence, Italy, where he died. His benevolence
+and hospitality won for him much admiration in the United States. See
+our volumes xi, p. 159, and xii, p. 79.--ED.
+
+[31] On February 4, 1830, the state legislature of New Jersey granted
+a charter for the Camden and Amboy Railroad.--ED.
+
+[32] We were told that the Virginian deer were formerly very numerous
+here, but that it had been found necessary to shoot them, because, in
+the rutting season, they roamed about and did great damage to the
+crops.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[33] For Major Long's _Expedition_, see our volumes xiv-xvii. Short
+notes on the Peale family, Seymour, and Say may be found in our volume
+xiv, pp. 39-41, note 2.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+RESIDENCE AT FREIBURG AND BETHLEHEM IN PENNSYLVANIA, FROM JULY 30TH TO
+AUGUST 23RD
+
+   View of the Country--Population of German
+   Origin--Freiburg--Residence there--The Rocky
+   Valley--Excursions--The Colony of the Moravian Brethren at
+   Bethlehem--Residence there--Excursions.
+
+
+All the members of our party had now joined, and, though our baggage
+was not yet arrived from Boston, I resolved, in order to make myself
+acquainted with the interior of Pennsylvania, to take up my abode in
+the settlement of the Moravian Brethren at Bethlehem. I had previously
+paid a visit to the place, and found it very favourably situated for
+our object. On the 30th of June [July], before daybreak, in the finest
+weather and bright moonlight, we drove through the long streets of
+Philadelphia, and passed the churchyards, with their white, ghost-like
+monuments and tombstones. The day broke when we got out of the city.
+On both sides of the road were country houses, alternating with
+fields, enclosures, gardens, and parks; and high trees of various
+kinds were everywhere planted by the road-side. We passed through
+Germantown, a scattered village, and, by eight o'clock, arrived at
+Chestnut Hill, where the passengers usually breakfast. The inn was
+rather uncleanly, and the coffee so bad, that a portly Quaker in our
+company would not take this beverage, of which he was otherwise very
+fond. At table we were molested by innumerable European flies, though
+a servant girl took great pains to drive them away, by waving a large
+green bough over our heads.
+
+The whole country, as far as Bethlehem, and much farther, is chiefly
+inhabited by the descendants of German emigrants, who all speak an
+indifferent low German, and say that they rather converse in German
+than in English. The appearance of the country in this part is not
+particularly pleasing. Fields of potatoes, clover, oats, and maize as
+high as a man, alternate with meadows and little thickets, and all the
+fields are surrounded with hedges or wooden fences. At Montgomeryville,
+the horses are changed a second time, and the road becomes more
+diversified. [pg. 22] The habitations of the country people are
+generally small, often rather poor, frequently composed of boards,
+covered with shingles; sometimes they are merely great block-houses,
+like the cowkeeper's cottage in Switzerland. These cottages are
+surrounded with little gardens, in which there are various kinds of
+European plants, such as the hollyhock, hibiscus, larkspur, balsam,
+&c. The _Hibiscus Syriacus_ was everywhere in blossom, in the greatest
+beauty. I have never seen this fine plant so high and vigorous, or its
+flowers so large and splendid, in Europe, as here. They are of three
+varieties of colour--white, purple, and bright pink, the latter by far
+the most beautiful. In general, the trees and shrubs in this country
+are very vigorous. The vegetative power increases the more you advance
+towards the south, and the prodigious fertility of the soil remains
+long unimpaired, even after it has been stripped of its primeval
+forests.
+
+The country, as we advanced, was gradually more and more wooded. We
+drove through fine young woods of slender oaks, walnuts and chestnuts,
+ash, sassafras, beech, tupelo (_Nyssa sylvatica_), and other tall
+trees, all, with the exception of a single spot, without any underwood
+or young trees, which is a proof that there is no intention of
+perpetuating these woods for future use. In many parts they are on the
+way to total destruction, for they contain neither timber fit for
+felling, nor young plants; and if it is thought fit in future to raise
+timber in these ruined forests, the country people must be checked in
+their love of destruction, and forest laws and regulations introduced.
+It is fortunate for Pennsylvania that the rich coal mines have been
+discovered. There was a very agreeable succession of woods and
+meadows, and we saw great numbers of the beautiful red-headed
+woodpecker, which, when it spreads its wings, displays a large surface
+as white as snow. It is often seen sitting on the fences where the
+ground squirrel and the reddish squirrel, with dark lateral stripes
+(_Sciurus Hudsonius_), frequently resort. The first, in particular, is
+seen in great numbers about all these fences, running backwards and
+forwards on them. The birds which we particularly remarked were the
+robin, the blue bird, the fox-coloured thrush, the goldfinch, the
+turtle-dove, &c. The _Caprimulgus Virginianus_, which the Americans
+call the night hawk, was flying about in a meadow in bright sunshine.
+I have seen these birds everywhere, flying about in numbers, in the
+daytime, like _Azaras Nacunda_ in Brazil. This species, too, shows,
+when on the wing, the white transverse stripes which are observed in
+many species in that country. Crows and blackbirds are common, but
+there are very few birds of prey, which are far more numerous in
+Brazil. The forests in this part of the country become more lofty; the
+crowns of the trees spread wider, and afford a thicker shade.
+Travelling by a road which runs alternately through corn-fields,
+meadows, and agreeable eminences, we arrived at Freiburg, a straggling
+village, almost wholly inhabited by descendants of German emigrants.
+We stopped here a couple of days, to make excursions in the forests,
+and took up our quarters in a tolerably good country miller's house,
+close to which a Jew had set up his store.
+
+On the 1st of August, conducted by my obliging neighbour, the German
+Jew, and some [pg. 23] others of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood,
+we made an excursion to the Rocky Valley, which was represented to us
+as very well worth seeing. We proceeded through meadows and between
+fences for about half a league, and often saw the large prairie lark
+(_Alauda magna_, Linn.; _Sturnella_, Vieill.), which usually sits on
+the ground, on the grass, or on the branch of a shrub, and, when
+scared, often lights on the pines. Its song is short, and not
+disagreeable. This handsome bird is shy of the sportsman, and flies
+away betimes, when it may immediately be recognized by its short,
+outspread tail, the side feathers of which are white. Our path lay
+past isolated farm-houses, most of the inhabitants of which spoke
+German, and we then reached the forest, where we shot many fine birds.
+We next passed by several lonely log or block-houses, before the doors
+of which the children, many of them very poorly and dirtily dressed,
+were at play, and seemed to be the only possession of the inhabitants.
+The sky was overcast, and it rained, while the weather was very warm,
+which obliged us to visit the cool draw-wells of the peasants. From
+this place the forest was more and more filled with blocks of
+primitive rocks, mixed with hornblende and quartz, and these blocks
+lay about irregularly, some of them very large, and covered with
+various kinds of lichens. In this wild wooded spot, our guides could
+not tell where they were, till a German peasant showed us the rather
+hidden path, which could hardly be distinguished among the many blocks
+of stone. The _Actaea Racemosa_, with its long spikes of white flowers,
+was growing everywhere, four or five feet high, like the _Digitalis
+purpurea_, in the mountain forests on the Rhine.
+
+The wood now became thicker, and fuller of brushwood. We reached the
+bed of a stream, now dry, likewise quite filled with blocks of stone,
+which we followed, leaping from block to block, till we came in sight
+of the place called the Rocky Valley. Here, on a gentle hill, is a
+free prospect through the forest up the stream, where prodigious
+masses of great blocks of stone were so piled up, one over another,
+that a tract, from 150 to 200 paces in breadth, appears quite covered
+with them, exactly like similar heaps of stone, especially basalt, in
+Germany, some of which are found in the countries on the Rhine, where
+they are called _beilsteine_. No shrub or blade of grass can grow
+among these boulders, and the rain, which continued to fall, made them
+so slippery that it was dangerous to climb over them. No living
+creature was to be seen in this wilderness, nor, as I said before, was
+there any vegetation. These blocks seem to have been accumulated and
+piled up by some impetuous torrent, and it is said that, at the season
+of the year which is less hot and dry, the sound of water running
+under the stones is heard.
+
+From this place we returned to the habitation of the German peasant
+who had showed us the way, where we refreshed ourselves with
+brandy-and-water. The inmates of the house were, in part, engaged,
+sitting under the shade of the trees, in cutting shingles, which they
+sold. They were much astonished at our double-barrelled guns, with
+percussion locks and safety caps. There are now scarcely any wild
+animals in these forests; hardly any but the grey fox, the [pg. 24]
+Pennsylvania marmot (ground hog, or _wood chuck_), the grey and the
+red squirrel, have escaped the love of destruction of the invaders.
+
+On our return to Freiburg, I found our countryman, Dr. Saynisch, of
+Bethlehem, whom I had previously met with. He is a naturalist, and,
+being well acquainted with this part of the country, was able to give
+me much interesting information concerning it. He stopped a couple of
+days with us, and we set out on a shooting excursion the same
+afternoon.
+
+On the 2nd of August, early in the morning, we left Freiburg, in the
+most beautiful weather, and our host drove us in his dearborn (such is
+the name given to a small covered vehicle), and two spirited horses,
+to Bethlehem, the road to which afforded us much pleasure. The country
+is very agreeable: meadows, corn-fields, habitations, and copses
+succeeded each other on the side of low hills; and the fine valley,
+called, by the inhabitants, Upper Sakena, is remarkably fertile. The
+road was here and there shaded by large trees, and a small pond was
+extremely interesting to us; for, besides many curious birds, we saw
+tortoises everywhere on the banks, and on old stumps in the water,
+which, however, were very shy, and plunged below the surface as soon
+as we approached them. In the sultry heat of noon, we reached the
+Moravian settlement, Bethlehem, where we put up at a German inn.[34]
+
+This settlement is built on the top and the side of a hill, at the
+foot of which the Monocasa brook joins the Lecha (Lehigh). The Lecha
+is celebrated for its picturesque valley, which is at first wild and
+wooded, and lower down, fruitful and well cultivated. At present,
+Bethlehem is no more than a village, but it is rapidly increasing, and
+has already some pretty considerable streets, which, however, are
+still unpaved. The church is a large, neat, light building, quite in
+the plain style of the German churches of this sect, and gives the
+place a pretty appearance, being situated nearly at the top of the
+hill. Another large building is the girls' school, which has a shady
+garden, planted with timber trees, the lower part of which is on the
+Monocasa, where flowers of many kinds attract the little
+humming-birds. The lower part of the village, consisting of but a few
+houses, one of which is the inn where we lodged, and where there is a
+long wooden bridge over the Lecha, is situated in Lehigh county; and
+the large upper part, in the county of Northampton, the boundary line
+of the two counties passing through the place. Like all the
+settlements of the industrious brethren, Bethlehem has a number of
+different trades, mechanics and field-labourers. New settlers are
+continually arriving, and it will, in time, become a place of
+importance. The inhabitants are, for the most part, Germans; but there
+are likewise many English, and divine service is performed in the
+church in German and English alternately, and most of the inhabitants
+speak both languages. The country about Bethlehem is agreeable and
+diversified; the climate very healthy. Large woods alternate in the
+vicinity with the fields of the inhabitants, and a canal, from the
+coal district of Mauch Chunk to the Delaware, gives animation and
+support to the country by the numerous boats that navigate it. All
+kinds of [pg. 25] European field and garden plants are cultivated here,
+and likewise maize; they have even begun to plant vines; but what is
+called the Alexander grape, yields a rather acid beverage, which they
+usually sweeten with sugar. We were told that much better wine is
+produced in the country about Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, near York.
+Fruit does not seem to thrive so well in the United States as in
+Europe: the peach, however, may, perhaps, be excepted.
+
+I became acquainted with the directors of this colony: Mr. V.
+Schweinitz, well known in the literary world as a distinguished
+botanist, Mr. Anders the bishop,[35] and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. All
+these gentlemen received me in a very friendly manner, and Mr. Seidel,
+in particular, showed me much kindness. Dr. Saynisch lived in the same
+house with me, and I derived great benefit from his knowledge of the
+country. Our whole time at Bethlehem was devoted to excursions in the
+neighbouring country. Opposite the place, on the other side of the
+Lecha, is a range of mountains, or moderate hills, beautifully wooded,
+which afforded a great variety of pleasant walks. The mountains are
+covered with picturesque forests of oak, walnut, and other timber
+trees, under which there is, generally, a thick covert of tall
+_Rhododendron maximum_, which was still adorned with its magnificent
+large tufts of flowers. In these dark shades we soon learned to
+distinguish the notes of the different birds, among which was the
+flame-coloured Baltimore bird, which we recognized, at a distance, by
+its splendid plumage, when it was flying to its remarkable pendent
+nest, of which we saw several. The Lecha, the bottom of which was
+covered with naked blocks and masses of stone, is adorned by
+picturesque islands, some of them of considerable extent, to which we
+made many interesting excursions. Numerous kinds of aquatic plants
+grow in the water; and among these plants we saw numbers of tortoises.
+Mr. Bodmer made a very characteristic drawing of this wood and water
+scenery.[36] When we had crossed the river, we landed on the island in
+a dark, lofty, airy grove, where all the kinds of trees common in
+this country grow vigorously, and entirely exclude the sun's rays. The
+ground is clothed with many fine plants: the beautiful _Lobelia
+cardinalis_, which is common in all this part of the country, was in
+blossom on the banks, as well as many other plants.
+
+This beautiful forest was peopled by a great variety of birds; besides
+those above-mentioned, we saw, in the crowns of the highest trees, the
+bright red Tanagra, the black and red Baltimore bird, the
+humming-bird, with reddish-brown eyes; the greenish heron, and the
+ash-coloured kingfisher, flew up from the stones on the bank. Whenever
+we were overtaken by a shower of rain on these lovely islands, we took
+shelter in the hollow trunks of old plane trees, of which there is one
+capable of holding ten persons. In these cool shades we did not much
+feel the heat of the summer, but it was very oppressive in the town;
+at nine o'clock in the evening the temperature of our apartment was 18
+deg. Reaumur (72-1/2 deg. Fahrenheit), and there were frequent
+thunder-storms. At noon the temperature in the cool passages of our
+house was at 23 deg. or 24 deg. Reaumur (86 deg. Fahrenheit).
+
+[pg. 26] We made frequent excursions to these charming islands; and Mr.
+Bodmer, who went thither every day to complete his sketch of the
+forests, generally came back laden with tortoises (_Emys odorata_ and
+_picta_) and other amphibia, or fresh water shells. This _Emys picta_
+is one of the most beautiful kinds of this family in Pennsylvania:
+there is certainly no country in which tortoises are so numerous, and
+of such a variety of species, as North America.
+
+The banks of the Lehigh, chiefly covered with high woods, differ from
+the more open banks of the Monocasa, where extensive thickets of reed
+and reed mace (_Typha_) are the abode of the beautiful red-shouldered
+Oriole. The little shrub-like oak (_Quercus chincapin_) grows in
+abundance on the hills that border this stream. We made other
+interesting visits to the wooded Lecha mountains, on the north or
+north-east bank of that river, below Bethlehem. They are thickly
+covered with high timber and much underwood, and from their summits
+there is a fine prospect over the whole of the surrounding hilly
+country. The chestnut trees have been very much thinned in these
+forests, as the wood is highly valued, not for fuel, as it is light
+and porous, but for fences, because it is said to remain uninjured in
+the ground for sixty years.
+
+The splendid bright red Tanagra was not uncommon in these forests; but
+we now met with none that were quite red, because the old males put
+on, towards autumn, the plain olive-coloured plumage of the females.
+Many of these fine birds had still bright red spots, which showed that
+they were undergoing a change in their plumage. Only a couple of
+species of the genus Tanagra, which are so numerous in the Brazilian
+forests, are found in all North America; but the manner and mode of
+living of these animals are everywhere the same. They are quiet birds,
+not remarkable for their song, but make up for this deficiency by the
+splendour of their plumage. The small hare (_Lepus Americanus_) and
+the grey squirrel were almost the only quadrupeds we saw in these
+woods; but of the class of amphibia there were many kinds. The larger
+wild animals have almost wholly disappeared. All North America was
+formerly one interminable forest, only there were what are called
+prairies in the western parts beyond the Alleghany mountains; but all
+Pennsylvania, a state comprising 44,500 square miles, was a primeval
+forest, which was thinned in a short time by the numerous settlers who
+flocked to this country. The larger species of game disappeared in the
+same ratio; and in the immediate vicinity of Bethlehem there are now
+not even any deer. It was mentioned to me as a very rare occurrence,
+that a bear had been seen here two years before, and was immediately
+pursued, but in vain, by the hunters. Some small animals still live in
+these forests, which, however, are not to be found except at night;
+among these are the opossum (_Didelphys Virginiana_) and the skunk
+(_Mephitis Americana_). The first is not frequently met with in these
+parts; the latter, on the contrary, is not uncommon.
+
+In order to catch the skunk, our hunters went by night to the Lecha
+mountains, and searched the forest with hounds, and almost always
+attained their object. The dogs killed the animal by biting it, and
+were sometimes a little perfumed. It has been reported that they
+[pg. 27] avoid the smell; but I can testify that we did not meet with
+any confirmation whatever of this statement. In fact, the stories told
+of the offensive smell of this animal are rather exaggerated, for an
+European polecat is often nothing behind the skunk in this
+disagreeable quality. The hunters brought home a half-grown skunk
+alive, and we kept it in a box in the garden, where it was very tame
+and quiet, and never emitted the slightest smell. We opened the box,
+and let it run about at liberty. It is only when alarmed that the
+skunk is offensive to the olfactory nerves. The hollow trees in these
+forests were the abode of the pretty flying squirrel, which, however,
+is not to be seen in the daytime. The banks of the river are inhabited
+by the musk-rat, which is often seen swimming, and is sometimes taken
+in the fishing nets.
+
+One of our usual walks, during our stay at Bethlehem, was up or down
+the banks of the Mauch Chunk canal. This canal is divided from the
+Lecha by a dam, on which grow many fine plants, about which numbers of
+humming-birds were fluttering. In my whole journey through North
+America, I nowhere found these pretty birds so numerous as here. They
+hummed about the yellow flowers of the broad-leaved tree primrose
+(_Oenothera_), of the violet _Asclepias incarnata_ (swallow wort), of
+the _Impatiens fulva_, with its deep orange-coloured flowers, &c.,
+and we shot many of these little creatures, among ten of which we
+found, at the most, one male, with deep red throat. The dam was
+bordered with stones at the sides; and among them were numbers of the
+striped ground squirrel. Tall thistles are the constant resort of the
+goldfinches, which picked the woolly seeds from the flower heads. At
+some mills, on an island near the road, there was a grove of tall
+trees, the dark shades of which were animated by many interesting
+birds, especially the beautiful Baltimore bird and the flycatcher
+(_Muscicapa ruticilla_), which is distinguished by the same colours,
+and is frequent here. Under the old stems, and from the roots of the
+trees on the bank, the great bull-frogs leaped into the water, however
+softly and cautiously we approached. Their deep, hollow note was not
+heard so much in this season, as in the spring and the beginning of
+the summer. I nowhere saw these frogs so numerous as here in
+Pennsylvania.
+
+Opposite to these hills, on the other bank of the Lecha, was a wood of
+very tall, old trees, the airy, shady crowns of which were inhabited
+by birds of more different kinds than any other place in this
+neighbourhood. From that wood we always returned loaded with booty.
+There, too, we observed interesting butterflies, such as _Papileo
+turnus_, the beautiful black and blue philenor, and other species. The
+thick hedges near the houses were the resort of numerous cat-birds.
+The fishing-hawk hovered over the river, watching for prey, and we
+often saw the three-striped viper (_Coluber sirtalis_) glide among the
+grass.
+
+To the north and north-west of Bethlehem the woods consist of oaks
+without any underwood, the cattle having their pasture there. All
+these interesting excursions greatly increased our collections; and
+the Rev. Mr. Seidel, who had a good library, and a taste for the study
+of Nature, had the kindness to provide us with the necessary literary
+assistance. We lived here [pg. 28] very agreeably in the society of
+well-informed men and fellow-countrymen, and our residence at the
+extremity of the place, close to the woods and fields, afforded us the
+most favourable opportunity for our researches and labours; and our
+landlord, Mr. Woehler, from Westphalia, did everything in his power to
+assist us in our occupations. This, in some degree, indemnified me for
+the deplorable loss of time occasioned by the delay in the arrival of
+our baggage. I should have reached the Western States long before, if
+I had not been obliged to wait for those indispensable articles.
+During our stay here, we often saw German emigrants arrive, almost all
+of whom were from Wuertemberg, Baden, or Rhenish Bavaria. In the most
+lamentable condition, without money, without the slightest knowledge
+of the country or the language, they were going to meet their
+precarious fate. They were generally refused admittance at the English
+inns, and then Woehler, not without considerable expense, took on him
+to forward them on their journey.
+
+We received news from Philadelphia that the cholera had rather abated;
+it had entirely spared Bethlehem and its vicinity. The canal colliers
+gave me an opportunity of sending my collections to New York, which I
+did in the beginning of September. The Flora of the country had then
+produced its white, yellow, or purple autumnal flowers; the golden
+rod, sunflower, Eupatorium, and some kinds of Aster were in blossom,
+and the white flowers of the _Clematis Virginiana_.
+
+The weather now remained very uniformly hot during the whole of July
+and August, with occasional thunder-storms; and if the summers in the
+United States are usually of this temperature, as we were assured,
+they are more equally hot, and for a longer time, than that season is
+in Germany. In order to make myself acquainted with Nazareth, the
+other settlement of the Moravian brethren, I drove there in company
+of the Rev. Mr. Seidel. It is ten miles from Bethlehem. On the road to
+it lies Altoona, consisting of some scattered habitations, and
+afterwards, on approaching the Monocasa, Hecktown. Nazareth is a
+pleasant place, with some unpaved streets, and has a gymnasium for the
+education of young clergymen. All the masters are Germans, but their
+instructions are given in the English language. The building seems to
+be old, and not very spacious. From the roof there is a fine,
+extensive prospect to the blue hills on the banks of the Delaware, and
+to the verdant, wooded banks of the Lecha. The gymnasium has a small
+cabinet of natural history. The church is not so large as that at
+Bethlehem, but can be easily warmed in the winter. A little beyond the
+garden, which has many shady walks, is the churchyard, where the flat,
+square tombstones, with short inscriptions, lie in regular rows, near
+to each other. The names of the brethren interred here show that most
+of them were Germans. There is a very fine prospect from the higher
+part of this churchyard. The greensward is here thickly covered with
+European thyme. Nazareth has about 350 inhabitants, and sixty youths
+in the gymnasium. There are in the place a good inn, shops of various
+kinds, &c. Mr. Herrman,[37] the present director of the establishment,
+had the kindness to show us everything worthy of notice, and we had
+only to regret that we could not enjoy longer the pleasure of his
+company, as we were [pg. 29] obliged to return to Bethlehem in the
+afternoon. Mr. Gebhard, from New York, who had surprised us by an
+unexpected visit, returned direct from Nazareth to his own residence.
+The view of these Pennsylvanian landscapes would be much more
+agreeable if the numerous wooden fences did not give them a stiff,
+unnatural character. Some idea may be formed of the number of these
+fences from the fact that, in the short distance of ten miles, persons
+going on foot, direct from Bethlehem to Nazareth, have to climb over
+twenty-five of these fences.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[34] Bethlehem is today a post borough and summer resort in
+Southampton County, Pennsylvania, fifty-six miles north of
+Philadelphia. At times during the Revolutionary War, it was the
+general hospital headquarters for the Continental army and about five
+hundred soldiers were buried there. In 1740, under the leadership of
+Whitefield, a small body of Moravians who had recently migrated to
+Georgia settled on the Forks of the Delaware. Within a few weeks,
+however, doctrinal differences influenced Whitefield to expel the
+Moravians from his estate. Through the labors of Bishop Nitschmann,
+the latter purchased from William Allen five hundred acres on the
+banks of the Lehigh River. Count Zinzendorf, visiting the hamlet at
+Christmas in the same year, named it Bethlehem. It has since remained
+the centre of the northern division of the Moravian church in the
+United States.--ED.
+
+[35] Lewis David von Schweinitz was born at Bethlehem (1780), and died
+there in 1834. Educated in Germany, he returned to the United States
+and won a large reputation as a botanist being made a member of
+various scientific societies in this country and Europe. He added
+fourteen hundred new species to the catalogue of American flora, wrote
+numerous books on botany, and at his death bequeathed to the Academy
+of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia his herbarium, at that time the
+largest in North America.
+
+Before coming to Pennsylvania, John D. Anders (1771-1847) had charge
+of the Moravian church at Berlin, where his great ability attracted
+much attention among the students of the university. In 1827 he was
+appointed to preside over the northern district of the American
+Moravian church. This position he held until 1836, when he was elected
+to the supreme executive board of the _Unitas Fratrum_.--ED.
+
+[36] See Plate 34, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[37] Born and educated in Prussia, John Gottlieb Herman came to the
+United States in 1817, and taught and preached in Pennsylvania until
+1844, when he was elected to the supreme executive board of the
+Moravian church. During a part of his stay in America, he was
+principal of Brown's boarding school for boys. After a brief mission
+to the West Indies, he was elected president of the synod of the
+entire Moravian church, held in Herrnhut, Saxony. Returning to the
+United States in 1849, he died (1854) in the wilds of southwest
+Missouri while returning from a mission to the Cherokee Indians.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+JOURNEY TO THE POKONO, AND THROUGH THE BLUE MOUNTAINS TO MAUCH CHUNK,
+IN THE COAL DISTRICT, FROM THE 23RD TO THE 30TH OF AUGUST
+
+   Easton on the Delaware--Morris Canal--View of the Blue
+   Mountains--Delaware Gap--Dutotsburg--Chestnut Hill--Sach's
+   Public house on the Pokono--Height of the Pokono--Long
+   Pond--Tonkhanna Creek--Tobihanna Creek--Inn of the Widow
+   Sachs--Saw-mill on the Tobihanna, with the Bear-trap--Stoddart's
+   Ville on the Lehigh--Shade Creek--Bear Creek--Extensive View of
+   the Mountains--Wilkesbarre in the Valley of Wyoming, or
+   Susquehannah Valley--Falls of Solomon Creek--Hanover
+   Township--Neskopeck Valley--German Settlers--Lausanne--Neskihone
+   or Neskihoning Valley--Picturesque Scenery on the Lehigh--Mauch
+   Chunk.
+
+
+In order to make ourselves acquainted with the interior of
+Pennsylvania, and the Alleghany mountains, which are the most
+interesting part of that state, we left Bethlehem early in the
+morning, on the 23rd of August, in a light, covered carriage, driven
+by our landlord, Woehler, who was well known in all this country. Dr.
+Saynisch and Mr. Bodmer accompanied me. I left my huntsman behind to
+look after our affairs at home. The country was enveloped in fog, as
+had been generally the case for some time past, till the sun dispelled
+it. We took the road to Easton, where the fields were partly cleared,
+and covered with stubble, partly planted with clover, maize, potatoes,
+and buckwheat, which was just in flower. The ground was gently
+undulating, with an alternation of fields, and woods of walnut and
+oak. This country belongs to the secondary limestone formation;
+where-ever the ground was broken up, limestone was seen, and in the
+woods were several limekilns, the produce of which was lying on the
+fields in large heaps, to be spread over them for manure. Isolated
+farm-houses are scattered along the road. They are slightly built of
+wood, many of them very small; but there are a great number of wealthy
+planters in this State. The little gardens of these houses were
+generally planted with European flowers, and on the road-side in the
+hedges, the kermes-oak and juniper abounded, and their berries
+attracted numbers of thrushes. Horses and horned cattle are very
+numerous, and the first, which are often of a very good breed, are
+left, day and night, at liberty in the meadow, and little trouble is
+taken about them. [pg. 31] The peasants are very bold in riding and
+driving, never use drags to their wheels, but drive down the hills
+full trot. In the hot and dry season, this country is often in want of
+water, and even the cisterns made by the farmers then become dry, so
+that the cattle must frequently be driven five or six miles to water.
+This arid tract is called by the inhabitants, in their German
+language, "das Trockene land," the dry land.
+
+We now saw, on our right hand, the heights on the banks of the Lehigh,
+covered with verdant forests, which we were again approaching. The
+double call of the _Perdix Virginiana et Marylandica_, called, by the
+Americans, quail or partridge, sounded in the clover fields; the
+ground squirrel ran along the fences; the red-headed woodpecker flew
+from tree to tree; and plants of various kinds, _Verbascum thapsus_
+(great mullein), _Antirrhinum linaria_ (the common toadflax),
+_Phytolacea_, _Rhus typhinum_ (Virginian sumach), _Eupatorium
+purpureum_, golden rod, &c., grew by the road-side; the dwelling
+houses were surrounded with large orchards, and the apple trees were
+loaded with small yellow apples of an indifferent kind, and immense
+caterpillars' nests covered many of the branches. A great deal of
+cider is made, but the culture of fruit seems to be, in general, in
+rather a backward state. The cherry trees, too, were covered at this
+time with their small, bad fruit, which, as in Europe, was eagerly
+sought after by numbers of birds. After travelling twelve miles, we
+arrived at Easton, a small town with a population of 2,000
+inhabitants, the capital of Northampton county, situated at the
+conflux of the Delaware and the Lehigh. We alighted at the inn with
+many country people, and immediately set out to take a walk in the
+town, while breakfast was preparing. The streets of Easton cross each
+other at right angles; they are not paved, excepting a footway on the
+sides, paved with bricks; the largest of them runs with a gentle
+declivity to the Delaware. In a square in the highest part stands the
+Court-house. The buildings in the place are, in general, only two
+stories high; and the most interesting spot is the terrace, near the
+bridge over the Delaware. This bridge is 600 English feet long, has
+three arches, is quite closed, covered with a strong roof, and has
+fifteen glass windows on each side; it is painted yellow, and the
+building of it, like all similar undertakings in the United States,
+was a private speculation, and brings in thirty per cent., a toll
+being paid.
+
+We crossed this bridge, and walked down the river, till we came
+opposite to the spot, immediately below the town, where the Lehigh,
+issuing from its picturesque valley, between the rocky hills covered
+with pines and other trees, falls into the Delaware. Near to the
+former, on the same side, is the mouth of the Mauch Chunk canal; and
+on the other side of the Delaware begins the Morris canal, leading to
+New York.[38] A great number of men were busily employed at this spot.
+On the banks of the Delaware grew _Datura Tatula_, with its purple
+flowers, tall Virginian junipers, a verbena, and other plants; and the
+three-striped viper darted through the low bushes.
+
+[pg. 32] Returning to the inn, we loaded our guns and proceeded on our
+journey. As soon as we were out of the town, we went up the Delaware
+on the right bank, and crossed a bridge to Bushkill, a picturesque
+stream, flowing between lofty shady trees, on banks richly covered
+with a variety of plants. From this spot the way becomes extremely
+romantic and agreeable. It leads close by the bright mirror of the
+river, which may be full 200 paces broad, in the shade of the dark
+forest of plane, oak, tulip, walnut, chestnut, and other trees; and on
+the left hand rises the steep rocky wall, covered with many
+interesting plants, which are protected by the shade of the trees. The
+river soon becomes broader, and we came to isolated habitations
+situated in shady groves. We stopped at one of them to send a
+messenger, on horseback, back to Bethlehem, where the drawing
+materials, of which we had so much need, had been forgotten.
+
+The rocks often came so close to the bank of the river, that there was
+scarcely room for two carriages to pass each other: lofty forest trees
+afforded a welcome shade. In many places the rock stood out. Dr.
+Saynisch struck off with his hammer some fine pieces of saussurite
+(_Hornstone_), and talc, with mica; but a slate formation soon
+succeeded, and we were glad that we had taken good specimens of the
+preceding. Continuing our way, in the shade, by the banks of the
+river, we frequently came to other steep rocks, till the wilderness
+again gave way to human habitations, where we stopped at the White
+House to water our horses and take some refreshment. From this place
+the country was more diversified. The road still runs by the side of
+the river, which was animated by boats, and by numbers of ducks and
+geese. The Mudrun creek here issues in a very picturesque manner,
+between high trees, from a small side valley. A little farther on, we
+left the Delaware to ascend some pretty high hills. We proceeded along
+the side valley of Martin's creek, in which there are some spots of
+marshy meadow, where the splendid _Lobelia cardinalis_, which is
+usually found on the banks of all these rivers, attracted the eye by
+its deep red flowers. We then passed a naked lateral defile, where
+stubble, and clover fields, and woods, which we saw at a distance,
+reminded us of some parts of our own country. The road led over the
+heights, alternately gently ascending and descending till we came to
+the little village of Richmont, where we watered our horses, which
+suffered from the great heat, and ascended a considerable eminence, on
+which there is a mean looking church, called Upper Mount Bethel. We
+then proceeded through a more elevated plain, where, on the left hand,
+in a north-west direction, is a near prospect of the Blue Mountains,
+which form the first chain of the Alleghany.
+
+This first chain is said to be only 2,000 feet above the level of the
+sea; but it extends here further than the eye can reach, and is
+uniformly covered with verdant, primeval forests. It runs in the
+direction from north to south, and has no characteristically shaped
+peaks, or remarkable forms, so that there is nothing picturesque in
+the total effect. With the exception of some parts, especially the
+beautiful Catskill mountains, most of the landscapes of North America
+are characterized by this want of striking outlines, and this
+constitutes the great difference between them and [pg. 33] the views in
+Brazil, where the mountains and the outlines of the horizon are
+almost always marked by the most striking forms, as is usual in
+primitive mountains.
+
+In the chain before us, we remarked an opening in a northerly
+direction, where the Delaware breaks through; this is called the
+Delaware Water Gap, or the Delaware Gap. It is twenty-three miles from
+Bethlehem, and was the place of our destination to-day. We were now
+two miles from it. After passing the little town of Williamsburg, we
+saw before us, almost in all directions, luxuriant verdant woods, and
+eminences rising behind each other. As our horses hastened to the
+valley, the height of the mountains seemed to increase. At length the
+bright Delaware appeared before us, and we soon reached its banks. The
+river here forms the boundary of Warren County in New Jersey. On the
+opposite side we perceived a large glasshouse, managed by Germans,
+called Columbia Glasshouse, where many who have possessed it have
+already become bankrupts.
+
+As we approached this defile, we observed a water-snake swimming in
+the river, which suffered itself to be carried down with the stream,
+but disappeared as soon as we approached. We procured one on the
+following day, as they are not uncommon here.
+
+We had now reached the mountain chain, which rose bold and steep on
+both sides, and at every step became more and more contracted. Just
+before the defile, or gap, is an inn, behind which, at the distance of
+hardly a couple of hundred paces, runs the steep rocky wall of
+grauwacke and clay slate, here the predominant kind of rock. This high
+wall is crowned on the summit with pines, and covered at the base with
+various other trees, while the middle part is naked and rugged. At the
+foot of the mountains are luxuriant fields and meadows, in which the
+fine cattle were grazing. From this spot the rocky wall approaches
+nearer and nearer to the river, the banks of which, rude and desolate,
+are covered with many broken trunks of trees confusedly thrown
+together, many of which were still lying in the water. This is the
+effect of the rising of the river, and the breaking-up of the ice in
+spring, which had caused more extensive damages in the spring of 1832
+than on any former occasion within the memory of man. Where the banks
+of the river are flat and sandy, thickets of young planes often supply
+the place of the willows on the banks of our European rivers. The
+plane--called by the German inhabitants water maple, or water beech;
+by the Anglo-Americans, buttonwood, or sycamore--flourishes
+particularly near the water, or in low, moist situations, where it
+attains its colossal growth in perfection. These young planes, on the
+bank, were almost entirely stripped of their bark by the action of the
+water.
+
+The inn, Delaware Gap, is supposed to be 600 feet higher than
+Philadelphia, and the steep wall of rock behind it is elevated 600 or
+700 feet above it. We might have stopped here for the night, but, as
+it was early, we preferred passing the Gap. The road now led
+immediately along the bank of the river, and then obliquely upwards on
+the steep wooded western rocky wall. The savage grandeur of the
+scenery is very striking. The forest has underwood of [pg. 34] various
+kinds, where numbers of interesting plants attracted our attention.
+Picturesque rocks, over which water trickles, covered with various
+coloured mosses, lichens, and beautiful ferns, stand between the
+trunks of the trees, and form shady nooks, caverns, seats; while all
+the forest trees of this country, mixed with pines, particularly the
+hemlock spruce fir, and the Weymouth pine, make a dark wilderness that
+inspires a feeling of awe.
+
+The valley of the Gap leaves the river just room enough to force its
+way between the steep walls of rock; and, if you turn and look back in
+this interesting ravine, you see against a steep-wooded height what is
+called the Indian ladder. There are several islands in this part of
+the river, which are partially stripped of their wood by the action of
+the current, but some of them have pretty lofty trees on them. At the
+distance of about a mile from the narrowest part of the Gap, we
+reached a lonely house, where a man, six feet high, and very
+corpulent, came to meet us; he was of German descent, and his name was
+Dietrich. He would willingly have received us for the night in his
+small public-house, but there was no accommodation for our horses, and
+we therefore proceeded on our journey. In a short time we reached an
+eminence, at the turn of the rocky wall, where the solitary dwelling
+of a Frenchman, named Dutot, is built on a steep rock, high above the
+river. From this place the valley becomes more open, and the mountains
+less steep as you recede from the Delaware. A bad road leads over some
+eminences to a large open place in the woods, forming a hollow, where
+the poor little village, Dutotsburg, consisting of twelve or thirteen
+scattered dwellings, is situated. Here we took up our night's lodging
+in a tolerable public-house, which is also the post-office for the
+stages, and is kept by a farmer named Broadhead.
+
+We had scarcely taken a little rest, when a poor old man entered, who
+was the first person that had settled in this part of the country; his
+name was Dutot, and the village was called after him. He was formerly
+a wealthy planter in St. Domingo, and possessed 150 slaves; but, being
+obliged to fly during the revolution, had purchased a considerable
+piece of land here on the Delaware, and commenced building Dutotsburg.
+He had previously lost part of his property by the capture of ships,
+and his speculations here too seem to have failed. The property melted
+away, and the last remnant of his possessions was sold. He had built
+houses and sold them, so that he might be called the founder of the
+whole of Dutotsburg; yet, after all this, he is reduced to a state of
+great poverty, and his situation excites the compassion of travellers
+who pass that way.
+
+As the country about Delaware Gap was highly interesting to me, we
+remained here on the following day, the 24th of August. We were early
+in motion, when the rising sun beautifully illumined the mountains.
+Our guide, Woehler, had accompanied young Broadhead on a shooting
+excursion in the woods; the rest of us went different ways, each with
+his gun, till breakfast time. Near the village, a small stream, the
+Cherry Creek, meandered through the thickets and meadows, where
+numbers of birds came to drink, while the report of the fowling-pieces
+of our sportsmen [pg. 35] echoed from the neighbouring wood. After our
+return, I accompanied old Dutot to see his house and his family. He
+himself had nearly forgotten his native language, and his family knew
+nothing of it. We found in this house a delightful view into the
+ravine of the Delaware below, and afterwards took the way to the
+romantic wild tract which we passed through on the preceding evening.
+Several plants were here pointed out to me, to the roots of which the
+inhabitants of the country ascribe great medicinal virtues; for
+instance, the snake root, perhaps _Aristolochia serpentaria_, which is
+said immediately to stanch the most violent bleeding of any wound;
+and, above all, the lion's heart (_Prenanthes rubicunda_), which is
+commended as a sovereign remedy against the bite of serpents. Old
+Dutot related a number of successful cures which he had performed with
+this root. This plant has a tall flower stem with many flowers, and
+large arrow-shaped leaves; its root is partly tuberous, partly long,
+pretty large, and branching, of a reddish yellow colour, and contains
+a milky juice. It is boiled with milk, and two table-spoonfuls are
+taken as a dose. The swelling, caused by the bite of the reptile, is
+said speedily to disappear, after chewing the root. The Delaware
+Indians,[39] who formerly inhabited all Pennsylvania, made this remedy
+known to an old man, from whom it was inherited by the family of
+Dutot. The latter had himself been among the Indians, and gave me some
+information respecting them. They, as well as the river, were called
+after an English nobleman, but they named themselves _Leni Lenape_,
+that is, the aboriginal, or chief race of mankind, and they called the
+river _Lenapewi-hittuck_ (river of the Lenape). They are the _Loups_,
+or _Abenaquis_ of the French, inhabited Pennsylvania, New Jersey, &c.,
+and were formerly a powerful tribe. A great part of them dwelt,
+subsequently, on the White River, in Indiana, after they had been much
+reduced by the whites; but, in 1818, they were compelled to sell the
+whole of this tract of country also, to the Government of the United
+States, and lands have been allotted to them beyond the Mississippi,
+where some half-degenerate remnants of them still live. They are said
+to have previously dwelt between fifty and sixty years in the
+territory of the present state of Ohio. They buried their dead in the
+islands of the Delaware, which are now partly in possession of old
+Dutot, but wholly uncultivated, and of little importance. It is said
+that human bones are still constantly met with on turning up the
+ground, and that, formerly, Indian corpses were found buried in an
+upright position, which, however, seems to be uncertain, and with them
+a quantity of arrow-heads and axes of flint; but all these things
+were disregarded and thrown away, nor had Dutot anything remaining but
+a thin, smoothly polished stone cylinder, with which those Indians
+used to pound their maize. I was filled with melancholy by the
+reflection that, in the whole of the extensive state of Pennsylvania,
+there is not a trace remaining of the aboriginal population. O! land
+of liberty!
+
+Our excursion was extended to the public-house situated on the other
+side of the Delaware Gap, where we found a live specimen of the red
+fox of this country (_Canis fulvus_, Desm.), which we had not before
+met with. Loaded with plants, and other interesting objects, we
+returned to [pg. 36] Broadhead's house, where all the persons of our
+party successively arrived, each with something interesting. Some boys
+brought me the beautiful water-snake which we had seen on the
+preceding day. Mr. Bodmer had taken a faithful view of the Gap, near
+Dietrich's public-house.
+
+We left Broadhead's on the 25th of August, early in the morning. The
+place which we wished to reach on this day is called the Pokono, and
+is the most elevated point of the first chain of the Alleghanys or
+Blue Mountains. Our road led in a south-westerly direction, along
+Cherry Creek, through a pleasant valley diversified with meadows,
+thickets, and woods, and gradually ascending.
+
+As we rose higher and higher over gentle hills, we met a disagreeable,
+raw, cold wind, and reached, on the elevated plain, an isolated
+church, with a few habitations round it. On our asking the name of the
+place, a person, pretty well dressed, said, "he did not himself know
+the name of the place; the clergyman, a German, came, about once in a
+month, from Mount Bethel, to preach here."
+
+On reaching the top, we saw before us the highest ridge of the Blue
+Mountains, the summit of which, as I have said, is called Pokono,
+where an unbroken tract of dark forests covers the whole wilderness.
+We gradually advanced towards a more bleak and elevated region, where
+pines and firs more and more predominated. On an elevated plain we
+were surrounded, as far as the eye could reach, with woods or thickets
+of low oaks, from which numbers of slender, half-dried, short-branched
+pines (_Pinus rigida_) shot up. These pines originally formed the
+forest--the oaks, only the underwood; but the former have, for the
+most part, perished in the fires, with which the settlers have, in the
+most unwarrantable manner, without any necessity whatever, destroyed
+these primeval forests. On a part of the highland, cleared of wood,
+through which the road passes, we saw a row of new wooden houses, and
+at once perceived that timber is the source of the subsistence of the
+inhabitants. Boards, planks, shingles, everywhere lay about, and large
+quantities are exported. Shops, where most of the common necessaries
+of life were sold, had already been established in this new
+settlement.
+
+From this place, called Chestnut Hill, from the abundance of chestnut
+trees in the forests, the road declines a little, and you see, on all
+sides, numerous saw mills, which prepare for use the chief product of
+the country. The outside cuts of the pine and firs were piled up in
+large stacks; scarcely any use is made of them, and they may be bought
+for a trifle. We had to pass five or six times the windings of
+Pokonbochko Creek, the banks of which are agreeably bordered with
+thickets of alder, birch, willow-leaved spiraea, and the _Lobelia
+cardinalis_. A great number of skins of different animals were hung up
+at the house of a tanner, such as grey and red foxes, racoons, lynxes,
+&c., which led us to ask what beasts of the chase were to be met with,
+and we learned that deer and other large animals are still numerous.
+Rattlesnakes abound in these parts; they showed us many of their skins
+stuffed, and one very large one was hung up on the [pg. 37] gable end
+of a house. Some persons eat these dangerous serpents from a notion
+that, when dressed in a certain manner, they are an effectual remedy
+against many diseases.
+
+We had here a foretaste of the wild scenery of North America, which we
+might expect to find in perfection, in uninterrupted primeval forests
+on the Pokono; we, therefore, did not stop here, but hastened to the
+less inhabited, more elevated, and wilder region, where the mixture of
+firs in the forest already began to preponderate. We halted, and took
+our dinner at an isolated public-house, kept by a man of German
+origin, whose name is Meerwein. Forests surrounded the verdant meadows
+about the house, in which woodcocks were numerous. In a little
+excursion in the forest I saw splendid bushes of _Rhododendron
+maximum_, kalmia, Andromeda, _Rhodora canadensis_, _Ceanothus
+vaccinum_; and in the shade of the first, _Orchis ciliata_, with its
+beautiful orange-coloured flowers, which is found also nearer to
+Bethlehem.
+
+The entertainment in this solitary house was pretty good and
+reasonable; all the inmates, except one man, were Germans. If we had
+stopped for the night, they would have gone out for us with their
+guns, as deer and pheasants abound in the forests. Having taken the
+opportunity of forwarding our collections to Bethlehem by the stage
+which passed the house, we proceeded on our journey. From this place
+the road continues to ascend, traversing a fine thick wood, frequently
+crossing the stream. An undergrowth of scrub oak and chestnut is
+spread uniformly, and without interruption, over the whole country,
+the pines, as already mentioned, rising above it, most of which have
+suffered by fire; for in the dry season these woods have often been
+destroyed by extensive conflagrations, which have generally been
+caused by the negligence of the wood-cutters and hunters. Even now,
+clouds of smoke rose at a distance, and announced a fire in this
+great lonely wilderness. The high road is here carried directly
+through the forest; it is, for the most part, laid with wood, covered
+with earth, which requires carriages with good springs.
+
+When you have nearly reached the most elevated part of this
+wilderness, and look back, you have a grand prospect. Lofty ridges
+rise one above another in a narrow valley, all covered with dark
+forests, and, on the right and left, high walls of rock close the
+valley. We soon reached the highest summit of the Pokono, or second
+chain of the Blue Mountains, which, as I have said, forms the most
+easterly of the Alleghanys.
+
+Mr. Moser, a young botanist, had accompanied us from Bethlehem, and I
+undertook with him an excursion to a neighbouring lake on the top of
+the Pokono, while Dr. Saynisch prepared the birds that had been
+killed, and our other hunters went out to look for stags and woodhens.
+
+We proceeded about half an hour along the high road, when we perceived
+the summit of the Pokono, and then turned to the right towards an old
+decayed cottage, where oxen were grazing among the thick bushes, and
+followed a scarcely perceptible path through the wilderness. We
+crossed a valley, with thickets and scorched pines rising above them,
+where the ground was covered with various kinds of plants. An old path
+led us half a league over an eminence; after which we [pg. 38] found a
+valley, where the lake, called Long Pond, is situated, surrounded by
+low reeds and rushes, among pine woods and various interesting shrubs.
+On the narrow lake we found a small boat, in which Mr. Moser pushed
+about to botanize. He procured in this manner the pretty blue
+flowering _Pontederia lanceolata_, a red flowering _utricularia_,
+_nymphaea_, &c. Though this wilderness was perfectly lonely, we did not
+see any water-fowl, and, in fact, very little animal life, so that the
+botanist finds much more employment than the zoologist. The lake is
+about a mile long, has but little open or clear water, and receives
+its supply from the Tonkhanna Brook. When Mr. Moser reached the bank
+again, he called to me that he was very near a rattlesnake, the rattle
+of which he had distinctly heard; but, though we looked diligently, we
+could not find the animal which we had long wished to possess, because
+the ground was so thickly overgrown with plants. One of the sons of
+Mr. Sachs, our landlord, had been lately bitten by a rattlesnake while
+fishing, and they affirmed that he was soon cured by tea made of the
+bark of the white ash, which is said to be an infallible antidote to
+the bite of serpents.
+
+At noon, while we were all taking some repose, we were suddenly
+alarmed. A mink, or minx (_Mustela vison_), a small beast of prey,
+resembling the European lesser otter, had had the boldness to attack,
+in broad daylight, the poultry that were about the house, and was
+shot. Our hunters had had no success, a single pheasant being all they
+had procured.
+
+In the afternoon Mr. Bodmer joined us, having been driven hither by
+Broadhead. We immediately went out to look in the neighbourhood of the
+Sand springs[40] for a bear-trap, with an iron plate fastened to a
+chain, which was carefully covered up and concealed. Mr. Moser, who
+thought he could find the place, led us astray, but we amused
+ourselves with the interesting vegetation.
+
+We made but little addition to our ornithological collections,
+scarcely anything having been killed but the whip-poor-will
+(_Caprimulgus Virginianus_), which is very numerous in all these
+forests. Day had scarcely dawned on the 17th of August, when our whole
+company was in motion to go seven miles to the house of another Sachs
+(a near relation of our host), whose widow lived there. For about a
+mile the wood retains the same character, the firs then attain a
+greater height, and are closer together. The wood had been cleared
+around some houses, and _Phytolacea_, _Verbascum_, and _Rhus
+typhinum_, which occupy all the uncultivated spots in Pennsylvania,
+immediately sprang up. The small habitations were built entirely of
+wood, and generally painted a reddish brown. In some places we
+observed traces of fire: the low scrub oaks were scorched and black,
+and were putting forth shoots from the stumps and roots. At times we
+had an extensive view of the mountains, uniformly clothed with dark
+pine forests, everywhere high tops and ridges, and all around black
+woods. The Canadian and the Virginian pine were high and close
+together, especially in the valleys. The soil in this part is not very
+fertile, and requires to be well manured. All is forest and
+wilderness, and bears, deer, and other wild animals abound. [pg. 39] The
+Tonkhanna meanders picturesquely between thickets, and the _Lobelia
+cardinalis_ was in blossom on its banks. Bull-frogs appeared here, as
+on the banks of the Lehigh at Bethlehem, and the same species of
+butterflies as are found there. Not far from this place we came to a
+second very romantic brook, the Tobihanna, over which a short, covered
+bridge is thrown, and about 300 paces further, reached the lonely
+habitation of the Widow Sachs, in a desert spot without wood, where we
+were to pass the night.
+
+Mrs. Sachs gave us tolerable quarters, and I immediately sent for the
+most expert hunters of the neighbourhood, in order, if possible, to
+procure a bear or a stag. Three or four men came who were ready to go
+for a remuneration. One of them had but a few days before, met with
+two bears and their young, among the bilberry bushes, and shot two of
+them. I obtained from him a fine large skin of one of them, and
+several interesting stags' horns.
+
+The part of the country in which we now were was so lonely, wild, and
+grand, that we immediately took our fowling-pieces to ramble about.
+The Tobihanna,[41] over which is the above-mentioned bridge, thirty or
+forty paces in length,[42] is a pretty considerable stream, and the
+surrounding scenery is extremely picturesque. It is enclosed in rather
+high banks, overhung with fine, dark, primeval forests of Canadian
+pine trees, here called spruce fir, mixed with isolated trees of
+various kinds, and with a very close underwood of colossal
+_Rhododendron maximum_, thicker than a man's arm,[43] whose dense
+masses of foliage, with their dark green, laurel-like leaves hang down
+over the water, and are often mixed with the beautiful _Kalmia
+latifolia_. Even now, the appearance of this dark thicket on the bank
+was magnificent; how much more beautiful must it be when in blossom!
+The black forest of gigantic firs, crowded together, rises in awful
+gloom, here and there relieved by the light green foliage of other
+trees. These majestic pine forests have hitherto been visited by only
+a few settlers, and have escaped the great conflagrations which have
+deprived the skirts of these wooded mountains of part of their lofty
+stems. We were charmed with this North American wilderness, where
+Nature is, indeed, less vigorous, and poorer than in the hot climates,
+but still has a striking, though very different character of solemn
+and sublime grandeur. Mr. Bodmer immediately chose a place to sketch
+the above-mentioned beautiful brook, while the rest of our party
+strolled through the forest. Old decayed trees, often singularly
+hollowed, and roots of firs covered with moss, spreading over the
+surface in all directions, hindered us from penetrating far into this
+wilderness. A dark, damp shade received us here in the heat of the
+day, and the three-striped viper, of which there are [pg. 40] numbers
+under the old, decayed trunks, frequently fled as we advanced.
+Rattlesnakes are said to be less common than in the parts which we had
+before visited. Birds were not numerous in the deep recesses of these
+forests; only the hammering of the woodpeckers resounded in the awful
+wilderness. In places where there was much underwood, very thick stems
+of _rhododendron_, often from ten to twenty feet high, formed an
+intricate, impenetrable thicket. It was now perfectly dark, and we
+found the most beautiful natural arbours. The _Kalmia latifolia_, too,
+grew to the height of eight or ten feet. This country was so wild and
+attractive that I resolved to stop another day. To the north-east of
+the solitary dwelling of the Widow Sachs, was a fine beech forest,
+among the underwood of which pheasants were pretty numerous. We
+procured some of them, but I could not yet succeed in obtaining a stag
+or a bear.
+
+On the 28th of August we undertook an excursion to see the bear-trap,
+in which one of those animals had been caught two or three days
+before. The man who owned this trap lived on the road between
+Tonkhanna and the Tobihanna, both of which flow into the Lehigh. He
+had appointed his house for our rendezvous, where we saw the skin of
+the bear, lately taken, nailed up against the gable end to dry. The
+saw-mill of our bear-catcher lay in a rude valley, to the south-west
+of the road. We came to this saw-mill, in a solitary valley, on the
+Tonkhanna, which rushes, roaring and foaming over rocks covered with
+black moss, between old broken pines, in a true primeval wilderness.
+In this retreat for bears, prickly smilax, brambles, and other thorny
+plants, tear the strongest hunting dress, and leather alone resists
+these enemies. At every step we had to clamber over fallen trunks of
+trees, to the injury of our shins, which were almost always bleeding.
+We found our guide, who, though it poured of rain, took his rifle, and
+went before, to lead us to the bear-trap.
+
+The trap was in a place rather bare of thick stems, between young
+pines, and made of large logs, in such a manner that a young bear
+might be taken alive in it. It consisted of two round stems lying flat
+on the ground, between which two others, which are supported by a
+prop, are made to fit, and fall down when the prop is touched.[44] _a_
+is the base on which the two logs, _b_, rest; _c_, the two suspended
+logs, which fall as soon as the bear touches the bait, fixed in _e_,
+at the lower end of the rack _f_. The pole A, A, which is set in the
+rack _f_, rests in front on the prop _g_, and supports in _h_, by
+means of a withe, the logs _c_, _c_, _c_, _c_. When the bear touches
+the bait, the rack _f_ moves, the pole A, A, becomes free, and lets
+the logs _c_, _c_, _c_, _c_, fall, which catch or kill the animal. The
+whole is covered with green fir boughs when the trap is set, and all
+the parts must have their bark on. The bear caught here, some days
+before, was about a year old, so that there was room for him between
+the logs; and as he was not large, and had entered the trap in front
+and not from the side, his life was prolonged a little. He was shot in
+the trap, and his head used as a bait; we took the head away with us,
+and the owner of the trap substituted a piece of the animal's lungs in
+its stead.
+
+  [Illustration: Bear-trap]
+
+After a hasty sketch had been made of the bear-trap, we set out on our
+return; I very much regretted leaving the magnificent wilderness. On
+the way we found a fine viburnum, with large reddish leaves, and the
+_Oxalis acetosella_, which grew in abundance among the moss and
+decaying trunks of trees. The loud hammering of the woodpeckers
+resounded in this forest, and we shot the great spotted woodpecker of
+this country, which very much resembles our _Picus major_; for dinner
+we had bear's flesh, which we thought resembled mutton.
+
+When I returned to the house of Sachs, I found the hunters, whom I had
+hired, in no little confusion. One of them, in particular, after
+receiving his wages for the first day, had remained in the
+public-house the whole night and the following morning. Stretched at
+length on a table, he had slept off the effects of his drunken fit,
+talked big, and found here a willing audience, a number of drinkers of
+whisky being collected in this place. Brandy drinking is far more
+common among the lower classes in America than with us; and here, on
+the Pokono, this bad habit was peculiarly prevalent among the country
+people. Not far from Tobihanna Creek there was a small wooden house,
+ten or twelve feet square, with a little iron stove (see the view of
+the Tobihanna Bridge), in which a school was kept. The stalls for
+cattle, swine, and sheep, are, for the most part, cages, the bars of
+which being pretty wide apart, the cold winter wind blows freely
+through them; nay, many of them had half fallen to pieces. The swine,
+which ran about in great numbers, had a triangular yoke round their
+necks to hinder them from getting through the fences. In all this part
+of the country, garden vegetables are raised in beds, or rather boxes,
+filled with mould, elevated on four posts. The seeds are sown in these
+boxes, and the young plants not transplanted till they have acquired a
+certain growth, otherwise they would be destroyed by the insects.
+Maple sugar is not made here, because the tree does not grow in
+sufficient abundance. The [pg. 42] chief occupation of the settlers, in
+this part, is the making of shingles, which are manufactured from the
+Weymouth pine. We were assured, that these peasants steal the greater
+part of the wood for their shingles, in the forests belonging to
+greater landowners, who live at a distance, and have no keepers to
+protect their property. One workman can make in a day 300 or 400
+shingles, which are sold on the spot for half-a-dollar per 100. They
+are sent to all the neighbouring country, in large wagons drawn by
+four horses. At Bethlehem, forty-two miles from Pokono, the best
+shingles were sold, at that time, for eleven dollars per 1,000. These
+shingles are of two kinds; the German, made by Germans, who first
+manufactured them in this way, which are considered to be the best,
+and the English; the former are equally thick at both edges, the
+latter thicker at one side than the other. Many persons, whose horses
+are not otherwise employed, come here and fetch shingles.
+
+On the 29th of August we continued our journey through forests that
+extended, without interruption, on all sides. After crossing a bridge
+over the little brook called Two-miles-run, we came to an open spot in
+the forest, where the great village of Stoddartsville is built on the
+Lehigh, which at this place is still an inconsiderable stream. The
+environs of the place are still wild. Stumps of trees, cut or sawed
+off two or three feet from the ground, were everywhere seen, and this
+newly-cleared spot was still covered with wild plants. As you come
+down the hill, you look directly into the street of the place, to
+which some neat and pretty houses give a very striking effect in this
+wilderness. We continued our journey over wooded eminences, where
+bears and stags are said to be still numerous. Having passed Bear
+Creek and Ten-miles-run Creek, we soon reached the Pokono, or highest
+summit of the Blue Mountains, and began gradually to descend. In the
+forests through which we now passed, the firs began to give way to
+other timber trees, and the woods are again more burnt and ruined,
+frequently consisting only of shoots from the stumps of oaks,
+chestnuts, maples, and sassafras trees, with single pines everywhere
+rising above them, as the palms in Brazil do, above the lower
+_Dicotyledones_.
+
+On one of the next eminences, we came to another lofty point, whence
+we had the most extensive view, backwards and forwards, that we had
+yet enjoyed in these mountains. Towards the north-west lies the
+beautiful valley of Wyoming, through which the Susquehannah flows; and
+backwards, in the opposite direction, a rude prospect of wood and
+mountain, where peak rises above peak, and the eye ranges over an
+uninterrupted extent of immense forests. It is said to have been
+ascertained, by actual measurement, that this spot is 1,050 feet above
+the level of the Atlantic. Unfortunately, our time would not allow us
+to take a drawing of this grand prospect. From this place we began to
+descend into the valley of the Susquehannah, where the woods assume a
+more cheerful character, the firs being soon entirely succeeded by the
+oak, chestnut, and other timber trees. The road resembles an avenue,
+overshadowed by lofty oaks, tulip, chestnut, walnut, beech, hornbeam,
+birch, maple, elm, nyssa, and other trees, growing very close [pg. 43]
+together. Here we already see the formation of the conglomerate--the
+precursor of the coal district, which we now enter. When we had
+descended rather more than half way down the declivity of the
+mountain, we were taken about 200 paces to the right of the road, to
+be surprised by the beautiful prospect of the valley of Wyoming, or
+the Susquehannah. A group of rocks of conglomerate rises, isolated in
+the forest, and, on ascending it, you have a magnificent view. The
+broad and extensive valley, covered with towns and detached houses,
+alternates agreeably with forests and fields; the river flows through
+its whole length, and at our feet lay the pretty town of Wilkesbarre,
+the streets of which we could overlook. It is manifest, at a glance,
+that the whole of the valley was formerly covered with a thick
+primeval forest, for strips of wood everywhere traverse the fields.
+
+Proceeding on our journey we came to a solitary public-house, where we
+met with a rattlesnake. I bought it, and it was put into brandy, as a
+live creature of this kind is not the most agreeable travelling
+companion. This snake had been kept three weeks in a box, and had not
+taken any nourishment whatever, so that it moved its rattle but
+faintly when it was irritated. As it was a very large and handsome
+specimen, I paid two dollars and a half for it. The landlady, a very
+corpulent personage, was in a very light morning dress when she
+concluded the bargain with me, and not being able to give me change,
+she immediately threw on her Sunday clothes, to follow our carriage on
+foot, and settle the account at Wilkesbarre. Her head was adorned with
+a large fashionable straw hat; she had a silk gown, and a silk
+parasol, which she might very well have spared, protected her tanned
+face from the sun. It was remarkable that, heavy as she was, she
+reached the town as soon as we did, though we had half a league to go.
+Wilkesbarre, in Lucerne county, is a place with about 1,200
+inhabitants, with three churches, a court-house, a bank, &c.[45] The
+streets are pretty regular, and the buildings separated by gardens and
+intermediate spaces. The place has its singular name from the first
+settlers, who were called Wilkes and Barre. The population consists of
+handicraftsmen, field labourers, storekeepers, and merchants; and
+several of the inhabitants are interested in the important coal mines,
+situated to the west of the road which we had taken. This bed of coals
+is said to extend fourteen miles along the slope of the valley of the
+Susquehannah, and then to continue over other eminences, of which
+there will be occasion to speak in the sequel. For the purpose of
+conveying the coals by water, a canal has been dug, which was not
+quite completed, and which is to form a communication between the coal
+mines and the Susquehannah. On the other side of the river the great
+Pennsylvania canal is already finished, which connects Pennsylvania
+with Maryland by means of the Susquehannah.[46] This last canal, which
+is divided into several parts, will be continued to Baltimore, the
+chief seaport, but it is not yet quite completed. Pennsylvania is
+already intersected by numerous canals, which connect the rivers, and
+are of the highest importance by the facilities they afford to inland
+trade.
+
+[pg. 44] The inn at which we put up at Wilkesbarre was kept by a German,
+named Christ, who recommended to our notice some interesting points in
+the environs; and we, therefore, did not take the usual road at the
+bottom of the valley, but soon turned aside from the Susquehannah,
+into a wild, lateral valley, in which there are fine waterfalls. At
+less than a league from Wilkesbarre, we reached, at the foot of the
+mountain, a wild, thickly-wooded ravine, where we soon heard the
+roaring of Solomon Creek. Near a mill, the owner of which is General
+Ross,[47] this stream forms some highly picturesque cascades over
+smooth, perpendicular black rocks, covered with moss, forming a basin
+below, in a thick forest of pine and other timber. There are two
+cascades, one above the other, of which the second is the largest;
+then comes the last and highest, where the water, conducted from the
+mill directly across the ravine, falls perpendicularly, about the
+height of a house, over a steep rock. It was, unfortunately, too late,
+when we arrived, to make a drawing of this interesting scene. We asked
+for accommodation for the night in the mill, which is a roomy house;
+but our countryman (this man's mother was born in Germany) could not,
+or would not, receive us. They gave us some of the water of the stream
+to drink, which had a strong taste of iron and sulphur. As it was not
+possible to find a lodging in the neighbourhood, we were advised to
+proceed three miles to the top of the mountain, which we, indeed,
+accomplished, but had nearly had reason to repent of our resolution.
+
+The road ascends on the left rocky bank of Solomon Creek, in a thick
+forest, over rough ground, so that we constantly had the steep
+precipice on the right hand. There was no room for two carriages to
+pass; luckily, carriages are rare in this remote wilderness. As we had
+been told that there was abundance of wild animals, we loaded our
+fowling-pieces with ball. We now turned to ascend in a wooded defile,
+where a couple of solitary miserable dwellings, built of trunks of
+trees, scarcely left room for a small field or a little garden
+overgrown with weeds. While the road became more and more rude, and
+obstructed by the vegetation, twilight set in, and it was only with
+the greatest efforts that our horses could draw the carriages among
+rocks and fallen trunks of trees, and nothing but the greatest care
+prevented them from being overturned. We met several peasants, with
+their axes and guns, returning from their work in the woods: they
+were robust, savage-looking, powerful men, whose sudden appearance in
+such a lonely spot might elsewhere have excited suspicion. There are
+no robbers in these parts; at least, I never heard of any, but it must
+be owned that the place is extremely well suited to them. The
+beautiful cardinal flower (_Lobelia cardinalis_) grew in such
+abundance in the swampy parts of the wood, as to form a fine red
+carpet. The _Chelone obliqua_, with its white flowers, was likewise
+very common.
+
+At length the moon rose bright and clear to relieve us from our
+unpleasant situation, and cheered by her friendly beams the gloomy
+path of the wanderer. When we reached the summit the road divided into
+two branches, of which we were so lucky as to choose the right one. At
+[pg. 45] length, about nine in the evening, we had the pleasure of
+seeing a light; and a lonely house, in an open spot, lay before us. On
+our knocking, the door was slowly opened. We entered a poor hut, where
+two women--one an elderly person, the other younger--were sitting by
+the fireside. The master of the house, whose name was Wright, was not
+at home. The two women were very tall, and were smoking, quite at
+their ease, small clay pipes. They were not a little surprised at so
+late a visit, but soon stirred up the fire, and set on water. Our
+frugal supper, consisting of coffee and potatoes, was soon finished,
+and we lay down in our clothes on tolerable beds, placed in a large
+unfurnished room, which in this country are almost always made for two
+persons. This house belongs to Hanover township; the settlement itself
+had not yet any name. Only English was spoken here. Not far from the
+house the Wapalpi Creek ran through the thickets towards the ravine.
+
+The night was soon passed, and at six in the morning we proceeded on
+our journey. In order to take a view of the Falls of Solomon Creek,
+Mr. Bodmer left us, and returned to the mill, with the intention of
+joining us again at Bethlehem, by taking another road. John Wright,
+brother to our host, lived three miles off, in a little rude valley,
+where we intended to breakfast. Some men, who were going to
+hay-making, with their guns and dogs, met us. The inhabitants of these
+woods generally take their guns when they go to their work, as they
+frequently have opportunities of killing some large game. They have
+powerful dogs, resembling our German bloodhounds, brown or black, with
+red marks; or striped like the wolf, and sometimes, but seldom, their
+ears are cropped. These dogs are used in chasing the bear or the stag.
+
+In a romantic wooded valley we reached the solitary dwelling of John
+Wright, where we halted. The mistress of the house, who, with a little
+boy, was alone at home, gave us a very friendly reception, and
+prepared us a breakfast with coffee; all very clean and good for this
+retired spot. In the course of conversation we learned that she was of
+German descent, and born at Tomaqua.[48] She lived here in a pretty
+roomy log-house, with a chimney and iron stove; yet she said that in
+winter it was often very cold in the room, the walls of which were,
+indeed, not quite air-tight. In many rooms in these mountains we found
+two iron stoves. Leaving these scattered dwellings of Hanover
+township, we reached, in five hours, the Nescopeck Valley, eleven
+miles from our last night's quarters, the road to which is bad, little
+frequented, and in part stony, gently ascending and descending, and
+passing through ruined forests, such as have already been described.
+In some places the wood is thicker, in others the sides of the
+mountains had been quite cleared, and were covered with young shoots
+and some higher trees; small streams, here called runs, flow in the
+defiles and valleys; the bridges of beams over which were, for the
+most part, so rotten, [pg. 46] and in such bad condition, that horses
+and carriages could not pass without danger. We saw no human beings or
+dwellings on this road, nor any animals except some small birds and
+frogs. After this rather monotonous journey, we were glad to descend
+into the Nescopeck Valley, and reached it, at the mill of one Bug, of
+German descent, where we refreshed ourselves with milk and brandy. The
+Nescopeck Creek, a pretty considerable stream, which turns several
+mills, flows through this beautiful wooded valley. This district
+belongs to Sugarloaf township, in Lucerne county.
+
+After we had watered our horses, and the miller had questioned us
+about his native Germany, we crossed the bridge over the stream,
+ascended the mountain on the other side, and reached an inn on the
+summit, from which it is eighteen miles to Wilkesbarre. Proceeding
+from this place, we crossed the valley of the little Nescopeck Creek,
+which is covered with lofty trees, then passed the little Black Creek,
+and afterwards came to a high mountain wall, with a beautiful wood of
+various forest trees, which the inhabitants, who are mostly of German
+origin, call the Bocksberg. German is everywhere spoken here.
+
+From the mill, the way leads through a thick underwood of shrub-like
+oaks, with a few higher trees, and we soon reached the high road from
+Berwick, in the Susquehannah Valley, along which we proceeded to Mauch
+Chunk, where two stage-coaches pass daily.
+
+We took this road, and soon came to an inn, kept by a German named
+Anders, who likewise had a saw-mill. The host had, a short time
+before, caught an old she-bear in a trap, and in the three following
+days her three cubs, which he sold to travellers passing that way. The
+point where we now were is called the Hasel Swamp; and, proceeding
+onwards, we passed Pismire Hill, where rattlesnakes are said to
+abound. We observed, too late, a very large animal of this kind dead
+in the road, one of the wheels of our carriage having crushed the head
+of the snake, which was otherwise in a good state of preservation. My
+driver laid it in a natural position by the road-side, and I have no
+doubt that it was again knocked on the head by some other traveller.
+The marshy tract through which the Beaver Creek flows, is called
+Beaver Meadow, and is covered with willow bushes. It is probable that
+beavers may have formerly been numerous here, at least the place is
+quite suited to them; but those harmless animals have been long since
+extirpated. We came next to a considerable eminence, called Spring
+Mountain, which we ascended, and then rapidly descended, always
+through a thick forest, where we observed, on both sides of the way,
+the Grauwacke formation. On reaching the bottom of Spring Mountain we
+entered a wide valley, both the steep sides and bottom of which are
+covered with thick woods, only thinned a little round the habitations.
+In the middle of the valley, directly before us, six or seven
+buildings, in a broad street, formed the village of Lausanne, five or
+six hundred paces below which the Quackack Brook flows through the
+valley. A Jew keeps here a public-house and shop, where we met
+likewise with newspapers.
+
+[pg. 47] Beyond Lausanne is a high mountain, called Broad Mountain, up
+which the road is carried in an oblique direction. Trees and shrubs
+form everywhere a very thick but ruined forest, in which there is
+scarcely any serviceable timber. The view back over the extensive and
+wild valley of Lausanne was extremely interesting. One can hardly
+fancy this sublime and rude country without its aboriginal red
+inhabitants. The wide and hollow valley is everywhere covered with
+dense forests; and the little village of Lausanne is scarcely to be
+seen amidst the dark green foliage. On the Broad Mountain we find
+again the same formation of conglomerate, which I have before
+mentioned; the beds of coal are at a small distance. On the side which
+we descended the wood is more beautiful, the trees taller than on the
+edge of the mountain; oaks, chestnuts, and other trees, were very
+vigorous and luxuriant. Several planters have formed detached
+settlements here, among whom an Irishman was pointed out to us, who
+had lately been arrested on an accusation of murder, but had been
+since set at liberty.
+
+The Neskihone or Neskihoning Valley, into which we now descended, is
+wide, and enclosed by very high, far-extending walls of rock,
+everywhere covered with thick woods, in which some small cultivated
+patches are here and there seen. Along the right, or southern wall, an
+iron railroad has been laid down, which forms a communication between
+one of the coal mines of the Mauch Chunk Company, on the Rumrun Creek,
+and Mauch Chunk. It runs down into the valley of the Lehigh, which it
+follows to the last-named place. The appearance of the valley is very
+wild and picturesque; the Neskihone, which you pass at a saw-mill,
+flows at the bottom of it, and then turns to the left into the
+beautiful valley of the Lehigh, into which the Neskihone empties
+itself. The Lehigh comes on the left hand, out of a deep, extremely
+wild mountain valley, or dark glen, the entrance to which is entirely
+concealed by lofty, steep wooded mountains. Its glassy surface shines,
+half hid by tall shady oaks, beeches, and chestnuts; and the whole is
+one of the most interesting scenes that I met with in Pennsylvania.
+The road from this place to the Lehigh Valley is agreeably shaded by
+high trees, and on the banks of the river there are several
+dwelling-houses and inns. In a quarter of an hour we reached Mauch
+Chunk, now celebrated as the central point of the Lehigh coal
+district.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[38] The Lehigh Navigation Company, chartered August 10, 1818, was
+consolidated in 1820 with the Lehigh Coal Company, and since 1821 has
+been known as the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. Temporary
+navigation of the Lehigh River being opened by 1820, coal was floated
+down to the Delaware and thence to Philadelphia, where the scows were
+broken up. In 1827 the company began the construction of a canal which
+by 1829 was completed between Mauch Chunk and Easton. A line to White
+Haven was opened (1835), and to Stoddartsville (1838). In 1827 there
+was opened the Mauch Chunk (gravity) Railroad, the second of its kind
+in the United States, being in 1828 extended to Room Run and the
+Beaver Meadow region; in 1840 the Lehigh and Susquehanna Railroad was
+completed by the same company. In July, 1825, the Morris Canal and
+Banking Company, under a charter of the preceding year, commenced work
+on a twenty-mile canal between the Delaware and Newark, New Jersey,
+and completed it in 1831. Later the canal was extended to Jersey City,
+a distance of eleven miles.--ED.
+
+[39] When found by Europeans, the Delaware Indians were living in
+detached bands along the Delaware River. A tribe of the Algonquian
+family, they comprised three powerful clans--the Turtle, Turkey, and
+Wolf--see Post's _Journals_ in our volume i, p. 220, note 57. By 1753
+a portion of the tribe had migrated to the Ohio, and by 1786 all had
+settled west of the Allegheny Mountains. They had aided Pontiac in his
+attack upon Fort Pitt, and allied themselves with the English during
+the Revolutionary War. Defeated, they established themselves along the
+banks of the Huron River in Ohio and in Canada. Neutral during the War
+of 1812-15, they sold their lands to the United States and occupied a
+reservation along White River, in Indiana. By subsequent treaties the
+Delaware were removed to Missouri, Kansas, and Texas; and in 1867 they
+were incorporated among the Cherokee, and stationed with the latter in
+Indian Territory.--ED.
+
+[40] Copious springs issuing from the white sand.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[41] The names of all these rivers, streams, and many places, are, for
+the most part, harmonious with many vowels, and are derived from the
+ancient Delaware or Lenni-lappe language. _Tobihanna_ means alder
+brook. See Duponceau, in the Transactions of the American
+Philosophical Society, vol. iv. part iii. page 351, on the names from
+the Delaware languages still current in Pennsylvania, Maryland, New
+Jersey, and Virginia.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[42] See Plate 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[43] The wood of this shrub is extremely solid and hard.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[44] See p. 107, for illustration of bear-trap.--ED.
+
+[45] Wilkes-Barre, seat of Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, and eighteen
+miles southwest of Scranton, was laid out in 1769 and named jointly
+for John Wilkes and Colonel Barre, members of the British parliament.
+The town is near the famous "mammoth vein," of anthracite coal,
+nineteen million tons of which were mined in the vicinity of
+Wilkes-Barre in 1900. The census report for that year exhibited a
+population of 51,721.--ED.
+
+[46] The Susquehanna and Tide Water Canal Company was a consolidation
+of the Susquehanna Canal Company of Pennsylvania, and the Tide Water
+Canal Company of Maryland. It was encouraged by both states, Maryland
+lending it credit to the amount of a million dollars. It was opened in
+1840. See Henry V. Poor, _History of the Railroads and Canals of the
+United States_ (New York, 1860), p. 552.
+
+In 1840 the total mileage of canals in Pennsylvania was twelve hundred
+and eighty; of which four hundred and thirty-two were owned by private
+companies; the total mileage of railroads in the same year was seven
+hundred and ninety-five. See Henry F. Walling and O. W. Gray, _New
+Topographical Atlas of the State of Pennsylvania_ (Philadelphia,
+1872), p. 30.--ED.
+
+[47] The executive council of Philadelphia presented General William
+Ross with a costly sword for his "gallant services of July 4, 1788,"
+in rescuing Colonel Pickering from kidnappers. Ross was later made
+general of the militia, and in 1812 elected to the state senate from
+the district of Northumberland and Luzerne; he died (1842) at the age
+of eighty-two.--ED.
+
+[48] Tomaqua lies in the coal district at the end of the little
+Schuylkill Valley, near Tuscarora. In this country the discovery of the
+coal has caused agriculture to be neglected, and thousands of people
+are said to have been ruined by unsuccessful speculations.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+DESCRIPTION OF MAUCH CHUNK AND ITS COAL MINES--JOURNEY THROUGH THE
+LEHIGH VALLEY TO BETHLEHEM, AND LAST RESIDENCE IN THAT TOWN, FROM
+AUGUST 31ST TO SEPTEMBER 16TH
+
+   Mauch Chunk--The Coal Mines--Lehighton--Mahoning Creek and
+   Valley--Gnadenhuetten, a destroyed Colony of the Moravian
+   Brethren--Weissport--Lehigh Gap--The Devil's
+   Pulpit--Berlin--Crytersville--Howard Town--Schoner's Town--Last
+   Residence in Bethlehem.
+
+
+Mauch Chunk is a village of about 200 houses, in the deep and narrow
+Lehigh Valley. The houses form almost one row only, and a small street
+in the lateral valley of the Mauch Chunk stream. This place has sprung
+up since the discovery of the very rich coal mines in the vicinity.
+The Lehigh Company employs from 800 to 1000 workmen, and supplies the
+whole surrounding country with the very fine coals obtained here.
+Several iron railroads, leading to the works, have already been made,
+canals dug to export the coals in numerous barges, great works
+erected, a large and capital inn established in the valley of the
+Lehigh, and mills of various kinds built; and travellers ought by no
+means to neglect this highly interesting spot. This deep and wild
+valley, which is enclosed on every side by wooded mountains from 800
+to 1000 feet high, has become, within a few years, a scene of action
+and profitable industry, which will soon render this spot one of the
+most remarkable in Pennsylvania. The principal work, to which an iron
+railroad has been made, lies on a considerable eminence, nine miles
+from Mauch Chunk. On the 31st of August, we visited this interesting
+spot.
+
+As the railroad runs up along the declivity, it has been necessary to
+cut it obliquely; it is, therefore, narrow, with only one line; and
+places, at certain intervals, to allow two carriages to pass. For the
+convenience of travellers who wish to see the works, a stage-coach has
+been established, which is drawn up by two horses. Our company
+assembled at the inn, and ascended, by a steep path, from the town, to
+the iron railroad, which runs a little above the village. The [pg. 49]
+railroad stages are light carriages, with four low wheels, and seats
+for eight persons; they are covered at top, and open at the sides. The
+wheels are of iron, and have a groove, which fits into the rail, and
+runs upon it. The driver sits in front, and has a long tin horn, which
+he blows, to announce his approach to such as may be coming in the
+opposite direction; in the other hand he holds, in the descent, the
+machine with which the carriage is stopped when necessary. This
+contrivance consists of a pole, at the lower end of which there is a
+stuffed leather cushion, which, by moving the pole, is brought close
+to the wheels, and by its friction checks the rapidity of the motion.
+As a train of coal-wagons was expected, we slackened our pace. The two
+stages were fastened together, and though both were quite full of
+passengers, a couple of horses drew them up with great ease. We had
+not proceeded far, when we heard the rolling of a train of
+coal-wagons. It was interesting to see the black train advance, and
+dart by us with the rapidity of an arrow. These are built of strong
+beams and planks; each contains two tons of coals, and forty-five
+wagons go at the same time, which carry 90 tons; they run five times a
+day, thus 450 tons, or 25,200 bushels, are brought down to Mauch Chunk
+daily. Every fifteen wagons are fastened together by strong iron
+bands, and in the middle of this train is a man who holds a chain in
+his hand, by means of which he can check the rapidity of the motion,
+or even stop it entirely. Four or five hundred paces behind the first
+column comes the second, and then, at an equal distance, the third,
+and after these, seven wagons, in each of which there are four mules,
+with provender, and a bridge for them to get in and out. Their heads
+are turned to the front, and they eat quietly, as they descend. These
+mules are to draw up the empty coal wagons.
+
+It was interesting to see the thundering column approach us, and then
+hasten by. As soon as it had passed, our horses trotted up the
+mountain, which could not be attempted, except on an iron railroad.
+The road runs along the rocky wall, always through a forest, where
+single settlers have here and there built their little wooden
+dwellings. Cattle were feeding in the neighbourhood, whose bells we
+heard in the woods. The valley at our left hand was very wild and
+romantic. Both the high mountain and the valley below, in which the
+Mauch Chunk flows, are clothed with a forest of fir and other timber,
+and wild vines twine about the bushes by the road-side. The number of
+miles is marked on white boards nailed to the trees. When we reached
+the top we came to an inn, which had a small park with Virginian deer.
+The fawns of these deer were still spotted a little at the end of
+August.
+
+As soon as our company had rested a little, and taken some
+refreshment, as it was very hot, we got again into our carriage, and
+proceeded, this time without horses, to the coal mines, about ten
+minutes from our inn, to which the railroad declines a little. You
+reach these interesting works by a deep section of the upper stratum
+of sandstone, and then enter the pits, which may be 300 paces long,
+150 wide, and 30 feet deep; quite open at top, having been gradually
+sunk to that depth. 112 men were at work in and about these mines, and
+130 mules were employed [pg. 50] in conveying the coals, which stand
+out, shining, and with a beautiful play of colours; in some places
+they are of better quality than in others. They are detached partly
+with iron crows, partly by gunpowder, broken into pieces with
+pickaxes, and loaded in the wagons. From one part of the mine to
+another there are little railroads, on which boxes with four wheels
+run like what is called the dog (_hund_), in our German mines, in
+which refuse and rubbish are removed. In this manner high heaps of
+rubbish have arisen about the pits, which extend further and further
+into the valley. In some parts of the works there are impressions of
+antediluvian plants, of which we found some interesting specimens. The
+labour of seeking, in a stooping attitude, was particularly
+disagreeable on this day, which was hotter than any that preceded it.
+When we returned from the works to our inn, the thermometer, at twelve
+o'clock, and in the house, was at 96 deg.; to which we must add that the
+mine is 1,460 feet above the level of the sea. There was not a breath
+of air stirring, and everybody found the heat extremely oppressive.
+
+To return to Mauch Chunk we again got into our carriage, but had now
+no need of horses; the driver shoved the carriage a few steps, leaped
+into his seat, and we immediately proceeded faster than a horse could
+gallop. We had travelled the greater part of the way in seventeen
+minutes, when we were obliged to halt, in order to let a train of
+wagons, returning, pass us, which detained us about twenty minutes; we
+then proceeded with the rapidity of an arrow, and travelled the whole
+distance of eight miles in thirty-two minutes. When we had reached the
+bottom we hastened to see the place where the wagons are unloaded.
+
+At the end of the iron railroad is a building on the eminence, in
+which there is a large windlass, with an endless rope, which with one
+part lowers a loaded coal wagon, on an obliquely inclined iron
+railroad, down the mountain, while the other part draws up an empty
+wagon from below. The distance from the windlass to the place on the
+iron railway, where the wagons deposit the coals in a large shed, is
+above 700 feet.[49] The mechanism of all these works is well worth
+seeing, and the whole establishment extremely interesting. Mr. White,
+one of the principal members of the Lehigh Company, is a man of much
+and varied knowledge, and particularly well acquainted with
+machinery.[50] He has erected a saw-mill on the Lehigh, the
+construction of which is very ingenious. A single workman is able to
+saw 4,000 square feet of deal in twelve hours. The Company requires
+six such saw-mills in the Mauch Chunk, to saw the wood that it wants,
+because the coal barges are sent down the canal and the Delaware, and
+sold at Philadelphia as planks.
+
+The road from Mauch Chunk through the Lehigh Valley, which we took, on
+the 31st of August, in the evening, is agreeable and diversified. A
+violent thunder-storm had passed over the valley, and had poured down
+torrents of rain, the traces of which were everywhere visible. We
+proceeded along the right bank of the river, in a rather sandy road,
+shaded by old trees. On [pg. 51] our right hand we had at first the
+steep wooded mountain, where _Rubus odoratus_ and other beautiful
+plants grew amongst rude rocks. The mountains then recede, and fields,
+meadows, and detached dwellings, succeed.
+
+We came to Lehighton, where the sign of the inn was conspicuous afar
+off.[51] Lehighton is situated at no great distance from the opening
+of the Mahoning Valley, from which the Mahoning stream flows. This
+valley is wooded, has many settlements, and is well known from the
+destruction of Gnadenhuetten, a small establishment, founded there by
+the Moravian Brethren. Some Delaware Indians, instigated, it is said,
+by neighbouring colonists, who were hostile to the Brethren, attacked
+the settlement, which they burnt, and killed eleven persons. Only four
+of the fifteen who composed the little colony escaped.[52] Mr. Bodmer,
+who followed us from Wilkesbarre, visited the spot. He found among the
+bushes the tomb-stone which covers the remains of the victims, and
+made a drawing of it. The following is the inscription:--
+
+     TO THE MEMORY
+     OF
+     GOTTLIEB AND CHRISTINA ANDERS,
+     WITH THEIR CHILD JOHANNA;
+     MARTIN AND SUSANNAH NITSCHMANN;
+     ANN CATHARINE SENSEMANN;
+     LEONHARD GATTERMEYER;
+     CHRISTIAN FABRICIUS, CLERK;
+     GEORGE SCHWEIGERT;
+     JOHN FREDERIC LESLY; AND
+     MARTIN PRESSER;
+     WHO LIVED HERE AT GNADENHUETTEN, UNTO THE LORD,
+     AND LOST THEIR LIVES IN A SURPRISE FROM
+     INDIAN WARRIORS,
+     NOVEMBER 24TH, 1755.
+     "_Precious in the sight of the Lord is the death of his Saints._"
+     PSALM CXVI. 15.
+
+     1788, AND. W. BOVER, PHILADELPHIA.
+
+On the lands at Gnadenhuetten, which still belong to the Brethren,
+several farmers reside, among whom there is a singular female of no
+ordinary education, and, as it is said, of high rank, [pg. 52] whose
+real name is not known. She is said to have come from Germany, it is
+supposed from the principality of Lippe. Her sole employment is
+agriculture; she performs all manual labour herself, milks her cows,
+to which she has given names, and which she has tamed. She has rented
+a piece of land from the Brethren, which Mr. Von Schweinitz, as
+director of the council, let to her.
+
+Near the issue of the Mahoning, or Mahony Valley, a wooden bridge has
+been built, in a picturesque situation, over the Lehigh. It is
+surrounded on all sides by fine lofty trees, and on the right hand the
+wooded eminences of the Mahony Valley overlook it. From this place we
+came to a level, open part of the valley, where a few scattered
+dwellings bear the name of Weissport.[53] A man named Weiss proposed
+to build a town here, and had collected the names of many subscribers,
+but the town consists, at present, of only four detached houses.
+
+Night set in, and the moon showed us, in the Blue Mountains before us,
+a deep cleft, called the Lehigh, or Lecha Gap, where that river passes
+through the mountain chain. At the Gap we halted at an isolated, but
+very good inn, kept by a man named Craig, son of the General of that
+name. He spoke both English and German, and we were very well
+accommodated in his house.
+
+On the 1st of September we visited the Lehigh Gap, the mountains on
+the north side of which are low, rocky, and wooded. A projecting
+portion is called the Devil's Rock. Near the buildings there are great
+heaps of limestone thrown up, which is obtained from a mountain in the
+Mahony Valley. The lime is of bad quality, but serves very well for
+mortar. It contains a number of small bivalve shells. About eight
+o'clock we left the Lehigh Gap, and took the road to Bethlehem, where
+we arrived at noon, having passed through Berlin, Cryterville, Howard
+Town, and Schoner's Town.
+
+Our baggage, which we had so long expected from Boston, arrived at
+length on the 4th of September, and as Mr. Bodmer rejoined us on the
+10th, I should have thought of proceeding on our journey, did not the
+traveller often depend on accidents, which render it impossible to fix
+anything for certain. Mr. Bodmer, desiring to finish a drawing that he
+had begun, undertook a second visit to the Delaware Gap, and on this
+occasion was severely wounded by the bursting of his fowling-piece,
+which compelled us again to defer our departure. On our hunting
+excursions, we now saw the country in its autumnal dress. Night frosts
+had already set in, and the mornings were foggy, till the sun had
+risen pretty high, when a hot day followed. Most of the birds of
+passage were gone; no swallows were to be seen, and the wild pigeons
+passed by in large flocks. On a walk to Allentown,[54] the capital of
+Lehigh County, which has 1,700 inhabitants, three churches, and a
+court-house, six miles from Bethlehem, we found, in the Lehigh Valley,
+several flocks of birds ready to depart. The blue birds (_Sylvia
+sialis_) were assembled, twenty together. The yellow woodpecker and
+the nuthatch were hovering about the gardens and fields, where [pg. 53]
+numbers were collected together. The plants that were in blossom in
+the fields and hedges were chiefly of the class _Syngenesia_.
+
+The accounts of the progress of the cholera, which we daily received,
+were not favourable. In New York and Philadelphia, and more especially
+at Baltimore, the disorder was extremely dangerous; it had also spread
+in the country about the great lakes, and on Hudson's River, and had
+extended from Detroit to the Mississippi and Ohio. It seemed
+impossible to avoid it; I therefore chose the route down the Ohio,
+intending to make the Mississippi, in the following spring, the basis
+of our excursions into the Western wilds or the Indian country. We
+took leave of our friends at Bethlehem, and set out in the first
+instance for Pittsburg.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[49] See Plate 5, in accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[50] Josiah White, early interested in mechanics, purchased an estate
+on the Schuylkill, five miles above Philadelphia, constructed a dam
+across the river, and erected there a wire mill. Later, he sought a
+contract for furnishing Philadelphia with water by means of power
+generated at this dam. After long negotiations the city purchased the
+plant, belonging to White and Gillingham, his partner, and constructed
+the Fairmount water works. White, together with Erskine Hazard, then
+directed his activities to the Lehigh coal fields, and became the
+active promoter of the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. White
+resided at Mauch Chunk from 1818 to 1831, and then moved to
+Philadelphia where he died (1850) at the age of seventy. His name is
+inseparably connected with the canal system of Pennsylvania; see
+_History of the Counties of Lehigh and Carbon_ (Philadelphia, 1884),
+p. 670.--ED.
+
+[51] Lehighton--a corruption of the Delaware, Lechauwekink, "where
+there are forks"--is a post borough in Carbon County, Pennsylvania, on
+the west bank of the Lehigh, twenty-five miles above Allentown. It was
+laid out in 1794 on the lands of Jacob Weiss and William Henry, and
+the population in 1900 is reported as 4,269.--ED.
+
+[52] Loskiel, in his history of the Indian Missions (pp. 415 and 416),
+gives the following account of this affair. "On the 24th of November,
+1755, the house of the Indian Missionaries in Gnadenhuetten, on the
+Mahony, was attacked in the evening by hostile Indians, and burnt.
+Eleven persons perished: _viz._, nine in the flames, one of the
+brethren was shot, and another cruelly butchered, and then scalped.
+Three brethren, and one sister (the wife of one of them), and a boy,
+escaped by flight; the woman and the boy, by a fortunate leap from the
+burning roof. One of those who escaped, the Missionary Sensemann, who,
+at the beginning of the attack, had gone out of the back door to see
+what might be the cause of the violent barking of the dogs, and who of
+course was not able to return to those whom he had left in the house,
+had the affliction to see his wife perish in the flames."--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Gnadenhuetten was a mission established (1746) by the
+Moravians for their converts among the Delaware Indians; it was placed
+under the charge of Martin Mack.
+
+[53] Weissport is today a village of more than six hundred
+inhabitants, four miles southeast of Mauch Chunk. It was laid out by
+Colonel Jacob Weiss and his brother Francis.--ED.
+
+[54] Allentown, the seat of Lehigh County, sixteen miles southwest of
+Easton, was laid out (1752) by William Allen, chief justice of
+Pennsylvania. In 1811 it was incorporated with the borough of
+Northampton, but in 1838 reverted to its old name. Allentown is today
+one of the chief seats of furniture-making in the United States, and
+second only to Paterson in production of American silk. Its population
+in 1900 was 35,416.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+JOURNEY FROM BETHLEHEM TO PITTSBURG, OVER THE ALLEGHANYS, FROM
+SEPTEMBER 17TH TO OCTOBER 7TH
+
+   Allentown--Reading--Lebanon--Harrisburg--Mexico--Mifflin
+   Town--Valley of the Juniata--Huntington--Alexandria--Yellow
+   Springs--The Summit--Ebensburg--Hunting parties--Wild Scenery of
+   the Alleghanys--Laurel Hills--Conomaugh Valley--Blairsville--New
+   Alexandria on the Loyalhanna--Pittsburg--Situation of the
+   Town--Economy, Mr. Rapp's Settlement on the Ohio--Remarkable
+   natural productions of that river.
+
+
+Violent thunder-storms, accompanied with heavy rains, had taken place
+during the night before I left Bethlehem, early in the morning of the
+17th, with the stage from Easton to Reading. Mr. Bodmer remained
+behind for some days, on account of the injury done to his hand. At
+day-break we reached Allentown, where we changed both carriage and
+horses, and passed the Cedar Creek, which was much swollen. The
+thunder-storm had not changed the temperature of the air. All this
+country was covered with plantations of maize, clover, and buckwheat,
+and detached farm-houses were numerous. The clover was often sown, as
+among us, with the corn. The ears of the maize were partly cut off,
+and the stalks tied up in bundles. The maize becomes ripe here in
+October. We halted very often at the post-houses, where the horses are
+always watered. As soon as the stage arrives, the large leather bag
+containing the letters is thrown down, and the correspondence for
+places further on the road is put in. We were here on a calcareous
+soil, and many limekilns were burning in the neighbourhood. Flocks of
+birds, of many kinds, appeared ready to depart; _Papilio plexippus_
+flew about the hedges. The _Datura_, with purple blossoms, and the
+_Phytolacea_, with ripe black berries, dark red stems and branches,
+grow on the road-side, and about the houses.[55] The leaves of the
+sumach, and of some kinds of oak and maple, had already [pg. 55] changed
+to a beautiful red colour. The fallow fields were entirely covered
+with the yellow blossoms of the golden rod, or St. John's wort, and
+beautiful asters, mostly with small white or purple flowers. The
+farm-houses in this part of the country are remarkably handsome. The
+barns are built of stone, very large, and have, in the lower part, the
+stables, with eight or twelve doors and windows, and over this is the
+barn, properly so called. At the end of the building there is a
+passage where the wagons stand under cover; the windows, doors and
+roof are frequently painted of a reddish brown colour: cattle of all
+kinds surround these farms. The swine are very fat, have broad hanging
+ears, and are generally marked with small round black spots, and
+sometimes, but more rarely, they are reddish brown. We saw some fine
+forests of oak and walnut trees, among which is much hickory (_Juglans
+alba_), which, next to the white oak, and the black walnut tree,
+furnishes the best timber. In general this country resembles Germany:
+it is diversified and pleasant; wooded eminences on the sides, and
+bright green meadows, often kept in very good order, occur as in our
+country; but large, new habitations, built in rather a different
+style, the zigzag fences, and the more lofty and luxuriant growth of
+the trees, give, on the whole, another character to the scenery.
+
+In Maxatawny township we addressed the inhabitants in the German
+language, who answered us at once in the same, and we heard German
+names all the way to Pittsburg. After passing Sackoma Creek, we
+arrived at ten o'clock at Kutztown, eighteen miles from Bethlehem,
+where we breakfasted. The heat being very great, the dust was
+extremely annoying, for the thunder-storm, which had passed over
+Bethlehem, had not extended to this part of the country. The cattle
+sought protection against the sun, in the shade of single trees, or in
+the orchards. Large stacks of corn, six, eight, or ten together, stood
+in rows by the fences. On the right hand ran the Oli Mountains,
+beautiful verdant wooded eminences, which are connected with the
+Lehigh Mountains. About noon we had travelled the thirty-six miles to
+Reading, where we were obliged to stop one day, because the stage had
+already left.
+
+Reading is a very pretty town on the Schuylkill, with 6,000 or 7,000
+inhabitants; it has seven churches, and a new one was just then
+building. There are about 400 negroes and people of colour. Some of
+the streets were not paved in the middle, but have on the sides a
+pavement of bricks for the foot passengers, planted with acacias,
+planes, poplars, and other trees. All these towns are rapidly
+increasing. The cholera had already carried off many persons here, but
+the inhabitants would not confess this. We saw a funeral procession
+returning home, in which there were several women on horseback; the
+veils on their large fashionable hats fluttered in the wind, and gave
+this caravan of Amazons a singular appearance. Much fruit is grown in
+the neighbourhood, and the apples are good, but not the plums. Peaches
+thrive very well; we saw whole wagon-loads of them brought into
+Reading, around which the people crowded to buy, while the children
+stole them.
+
+[pg. 56] On the 18th of September it was with very great difficulty that
+we got places in the stage, the travellers being very numerous. After
+we had passed Kakusa Creek, we came to Womelsdorf, founded by Germans,
+fourteen miles from Reading, where we stopped to dine, and then
+proceeded over Dolpahaga Creek, to Lebanon County, which is in a
+tract diversified with eminences and wooded mountains. On this road we
+several times passed the Union Canal, which goes from Baltimore to
+Pittsburg, is very nearly completed, and is said to have cost
+18,000,000 of dollars. After we had passed the River Swatara, which
+runs into the Susquehannah, we continued our journey in a dark but
+fine evening; the crickets and grasshoppers chirped all around; but
+their note is by no means so loud as that of those in the Brazils. At
+length we perceived a number of lights before us, and came to
+Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, the end of our journey
+to-day.
+
+Harrisburg is a small town, with only 5,000 inhabitants, situated
+between the Susquehannah and the Union Canal. It has broad streets
+crossing each other at right angles; but many of the buildings are of
+wood, for which they are now, however, gradually substituting better
+ones of brick. Rows of trees are planted in front of the houses. The
+inn at which we put up was in a square, which they were just covering
+with broken stones. Here, too, is the market-hall, a long roofed
+building supported by pillars, in which the productions of the country
+are exposed for sale, as in most of the towns in the United States.
+Harrisburg, being the capital of the state, is the residence of the
+Governor. The state-house is built on a gentle eminence on the canal,
+near the town, and with its two wings is a very considerable building,
+with a colonnade and a cupola supported by pillars. Another
+interesting point of the town is the view of the Susquehannah, which
+is very broad here, and forms an island. A long bridge, covered at
+top, and enclosed at the sides, is built over each arm of the river.
+One of these bridges is about 600 paces in length. In the first there
+are twenty-three glass windows, and it has two pillars on shore, and
+five in the river. There are colossal bridges of this kind in the
+United States; and there is one further down the Susquehannah, which
+is one and a quarter mile and four rods in length, and has fifty-two
+pillars. The view from this bridge up the river is peculiarly
+beautiful. Verdant wooded islands adorn its surface, which is broad,
+but it was at this time very shallow. There are 500 negroes and people
+of colour. Germans are met with everywhere, and we were told that an
+able German physician lived here.
+
+The defective arrangements of the post-houses obliged us to stop here
+three days, and it was not till the 21st of September, in the evening,
+that we could leave the town to continue our journey during the night.
+We passed the Susquehannah, and the Juniata, which comes from the
+Alleghany Mountains, and flows into it. On the 22nd, at day-break, we
+were at the little village of Mexico.
+
+Mexico is in Mifflin County, forty miles from Harrisburg. Three miles
+further is the village of Mifflin Town, the capital of the county,
+where they were just building a new town-hall. The Union Canal, which
+connects Philadelphia and Baltimore with Pittsburg, in general follows
+the [pg. 57] same direction as the river Juniata, near which it often
+runs at a greater elevation, and sometimes is even carried over it.
+The river is here about as broad as the Lehigh, but was at this time
+very shallow. Beyond Mifflin Town it receives the Los Creek. From this
+place we observed in the valley many robinias, which grow very high
+and vigorous, as well on the mountain, which is rather dry, as by the
+water-side; vines as thick as a man's arm twine round the trunks, and
+frequently rise to the very summit. The nettle tree (_Celtis_) grew in
+great abundance, and the maples were just assuming their red tinge.
+The picturesque forest is intermingled with Canadian pines, many of
+which are quite blighted and withered. The valley now became wilder
+and more romantic; on the right hand rose a high precipice, covered
+with bolders, fragments of rock, mouldering trunks, and the finest
+trees of the country, forming a real wilderness. A very narrow part of
+the valley, where we watered our horses at an insulated house, bears
+the name of the Long Narrows; and the steep wooded mountain, on the
+south bank of the river, is called Blacklog Mountain; it is said to be
+the haunt of bears and stags. The cattle belonging to the log-houses
+were grazing among the rocks. After some time the valley grew more
+open, and at a wider spot, near the road, which descended towards the
+defile of James Creek, was a group of lofty and slender robinias, on
+which a flock of tame turkeys were sitting. These birds resemble in
+colour the wild ones which are common in this country; they often go
+into the forests, where they breed, and come home again with their
+young ones. After passing Kishikokinas Creek, we reached, at a broad
+part of the valley, the village of Louis Town, in which there are some
+considerable houses. The country people were ploughing and harrowing
+their fields; and I may here observe, that, in all Pennsylvania, they
+never employ oxen in these operations, but horses only, of which they
+have great numbers. The plough is rather different from that of
+Germany.
+
+Beyond Louis Town we saw a number of horsemen, assembled for the
+fox-chase. The fox was caught in a trap, then let loose at a certain
+spot, and hunted with many dogs, as in England. In a district
+diversified with forests and cultivated fields, we came to Waynesburg,
+a small town agreeably situated in a valley. The forests began to
+assume their autumnal tints; the maples, the dogwood (_Cornus
+Florida_), and the sumach, were partly red; the walnut trees, and the
+hickory, yellow, which gave great variety to the landscape. Near some
+habitations we observed weeping willows of extraordinary size. The
+surrounding mountains were covered with forests, into which we
+penetrated to ascend the first ridge of the Western Alleghanys. The
+road, which is, for the most part, in bad condition, rose obliquely on
+the side of a rude picturesque precipice. Except a pheasant, which
+flew past us, we saw but few living objects. Advancing into the valley
+we again came to the Juniata, over which the canal is here carried by
+an aqueduct, supported by four pillars. In this part of the river
+there are several dams, such as we had seen in the Lehigh, near
+Bethlehem, with this difference that here they are triple. For this
+purpose, rows [pg. 58] of stones, piled one upon another, are laid
+across the river, forming, in the direction of the stream, acute
+angles, where a basket is placed, in which the fish are collected.
+
+At a place where three valleys meet stands the village of
+Huntingdon,[56] ninety miles from Harrisburg, where we found a
+tolerably good inn, on an eminence above the banks of the Juniata.
+From this inn we proceeded, during the night, through high rude tracts
+and forests, past Alexandria, and at midnight reached Yellow Springs,
+and then the highest points of this ridge, called the summit, between
+2,400 and 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the vicinity of
+Blair's Gap. This wild mountain region bears hemlock spruce firs of
+colossal magnitude, mixed with other timber. The night was clear and
+cool; towards morning fogs arose from the deep valleys, which at
+daybreak covered the pine forest through which we descended. We passed
+the Conomaugh Creek, and then arrived at the little town of Ebensburg,
+on an open spot in the forest. We stopped here at a small inn to wait
+for our travelling companions.
+
+Ebensburg, the capital of Cambria County, is an inconsiderable place,
+consisting of wooden buildings, forming not much more than one broad,
+unpaved street, but has a town-house and a pretty large church. The
+inhabitants, about 300 or 400 in number, are of English, Irish, and
+some of German extraction. The surrounding country is very mountainous
+and woody, and is said to abound in all sorts of game, as indeed the
+many skins of lynxes, racoons, martens, and minks, fastened against
+the houses, prove; bears, stags, and wolves, are said not to be
+uncommon, as lofty and dark forests surround the town within a couple
+of hundred paces. Ebensburg derives some profit from the numerous
+wagons, drawn by two, four, or six strong horses, that pass through it
+on the high road to Pittsburg.
+
+Our hunting excursions in this rude country were very interesting. We
+proceeded first in a northern direction into the forest, which we
+found to be quite a primeval wilderness. The mountains rise peak above
+peak, with deep ravines, where pines, beeches, chestnuts, birches,
+maples, and walnut trees of various kinds, form a gloomy forest, and
+fallen and decayed trunks check your advance at every step; cool,
+sylvan brooks rushed foaming through all the defiles, and we had
+continually to cross them on natural bridges, formed by the fallen
+trunks of trees. Such old trunks are covered with a whole world of
+mosses, lichens, fungiwood, sorrel, ferns, &c.; nay, even young shoots
+of maple, beeches, and tulip trees, had taken root on them. We
+clambered over the trunks, went round the fallen giants of the forest,
+and found everywhere, on the ground, traces of the numerous squirrels
+(_Sciurus cinereus_), in the remains of fruit and shells, especially,
+of the chestnut.
+
+But there was also an interesting wilderness in the opposite
+direction. Here a very extensive fall of timber had been commenced--a
+gigantic labour, as in Brazil, where the wood is burnt afterwards, as
+soon as it is sufficiently dry. The sturdy woodcutters were of German
+extraction, and spoke German. From this place a dark narrow path led
+through an old pine forest, where [pg. 59] the little creeping _Michella
+repens_, here called ground berry, with its beautiful red berries,
+grew among the moss, and often covered the ground. Several small runs
+and muddy ditches crossed the forest, over which I walked or rode on
+trunks of trees that served as bridges; in doing which my clothes
+suffered not a little. Woodpeckers abounded here, especially the great
+black woodpecker (_P. pileatus_), which we had not seen before. It is
+nearly as large as a crow, and its splendid bright red tuft is
+conspicuous at a great distance. They were very shy; knocked and
+hammered on the dead pine trees, which stood like the ruins of a
+colonnade, and were pierced and bored by their strong bills. This fine
+large bird is called here, and in general, woodcock. A young man who
+lived in the forest, some miles off, told me that bears, stags, and
+other wild animals, were very numerous, particularly the pheasant, or
+cock of the wood (_Tetrao umbellus_), one of which we shot. There is a
+saw-mill here, among the lofty pines, on an arm of Conomaugh Creek, in
+a wild, lonely spot. The owner was not a little astonished at my
+double-barrelled percussion gun. After we had spent two days here in
+exploring the woods, our travelling companions, Dr. Saynisch and Mr.
+Bodmer, at length joined us, on the 26th, but as the latter still had
+need of rest, on account of his wound, we took their places, and set
+out immediately for Pittsburg.
+
+Seven miles from Ebensburg is the place which is looked upon as the
+boundary of the Alleghanys, properly so called; here begins the ridge
+called the Laurel Hills, for these mountains consist of several
+parallel chains, many of which have distinct names. The forest now
+assumes a different character. Oaks of various species succeed the
+pines and beeches; the forest is not so high, rude, and thick, and
+from an elevated spot on the road there is a fine view as you look
+back on the long wooded chain of the Alleghanys.
+
+The traveller soon sees before him a deep and wide valley in which the
+Conomaugh River flows, and beyond it a long ridge, covered with
+verdant woods, called the Chestnut Ridge, in which there is a gap,
+through which both the river and the canal pass. The eminences are
+uniformly wooded, and the chestnut and chestnut oak appear to
+predominate. We changed horses at Further Laurel Hill, and at Amagh,
+and then passed the gap. In the meadows and fields, the stumps of the
+trees that had been cut down were still standing, for the whole
+country was formerly one unbroken forest. The habitations were few in
+number, and, at the same time, small and wretched. We were told that
+this part of the country is chiefly inhabited by Irish, who are bad
+managers, and addicted to drinking. A better character is given to the
+settlers of German origin, and they are said frequently to possess
+well cultivated farms.
+
+In the woods of this district, we everywhere remarked that the tops of
+the branches, for about a foot or a foot and a half, were hanging down
+and withered, which is caused by a kind of cricket (locust, _Cicada
+septem decem_, Linn.). This insect, which, as is well known, appears
+only once in seventeen years, but then, like the cockchafer with us,
+in prodigious numbers, had abounded [pg. 60] in Pennsylvania in 1832,
+and in many places was a real scourge; it does not, however, appear
+everywhere at the same time. But a few weeks before, they were so
+numerous in these forests, that the noise they made almost overpowered
+the human voice. On examining the withered twigs, we found the bark,
+as it were, ripped open in many places, the wood quite dry, and in the
+sap, a whitish substance, which consists of the eggs of the insect.
+
+As we drove rapidly down the hills, we saw before us the extensive
+valley of the Conomaugh, for the most part covered with woods, and
+gently rising on all sides, in which, a little higher up, the small
+town of Indiana is situated. We stopped at a lonely inn by the
+road-side, watered our horses, and hastened forwards. On every side we
+saw extensive forests, and from the next eminence looked down into
+another valley, in which the Conomaugh runs by the town of
+Blairsville, a pretty little place, with many respectable houses, and
+a very good inn, in a broad main street, which runs directly across
+the valley. The country is hilly, or mountainous, well cultivated, and
+with neat farm-houses scattered around. From this place, it is ten
+miles to New Alexandria, a village with tolerably good wooden houses,
+many of which are painted. Beyond it runs the Loyalhanna, a small
+stream, which was at this time very shallow, with a covered bridge
+over it. At nightfall we reached New Salem, then Millersburg, and
+about midnight, Pittsburgh.[57]
+
+Pittsburg is an old, large, but by no means handsome town, celebrated
+for its manufactories and brisk trade, and has been described by many
+travellers. The town itself has 12,000 inhabitants; but with the
+suburbs, its population is estimated at 24,000 souls, including many
+Germans, some of whom are respectable merchants. Coal mines in the
+immediate neighbourhood (a part of which is now on fire), afford an
+ample supply of fuel for the numerous steam-engines, stoves, &c. The
+style of building in the town is everything but uniform, neat brick
+houses being mixed with small wooden ones. The streets are ill-paved,
+dirty, and badly lighted; some of them, however, are modern and
+regular; and the new edifices are handsome and elegant. There are many
+iron works, nail manufactories, glasshouses, cotton manufactories,
+&c., in many of which, steam-engines are employed, of which, as we
+were told, there are above 100 at work, which are likewise made here.
+
+This town lies on the tongue of land between the rivers Monongahela
+and Alleghany, which, by their union, form the Ohio; this river is not
+very considerable here; yet, at certain seasons, when the water is
+high, it is navigable by steam-boats, of which I counted sixteen on
+the banks of the Monongahela. Over the Alleghany there is a covered
+bridge, 500 paces in length, which has, on each side, an additional
+covered footpath; and a covered aqueduct, of the same length, is
+likewise carried across the river. A similar long and colossal bridge
+is built over the Monongahela.
+
+The situation of Pittsburg itself is not very pleasing, but there are
+interesting points in the environs. As I was furnished with very good
+letters of recommendation, several of the inhabitants of Pittsburg
+endeavoured to make my stay there agreeable. Messrs. Volz and Von
+Bonnhorst [pg. 61] (the latter of whom had been an officer in the
+Prussian army) were extremely kind to me. Mr. Lambdin, possessor of a
+museum which was yet in its infancy, likewise gave useful
+recommendations and instructions.[58] Mr. Volz had the goodness to
+accompany me to Economy, the remarkable and interesting colony of Mr.
+Rapp. For this purpose we left Pittsburg on the 29th, passed the
+great Alleghany bridge, and the suburb, and drove by the large new
+House of Correction, towards the Ohio.[59] On the eminence to the
+right of the town is the convent of Flanders nuns, who have
+established a school, in which they receive children of all religious
+denominations. We proceeded on the right bank of the Ohio, eighteen
+miles, to Economy.
+
+Economy has been described, in its leading features, by Duke Bernard
+of Saxe Weimar;[60] but it has become much more flourishing since that
+time. It is well known that old Mr. Rapp, with a company of between
+600 and 700 Swabian emigrants, came to America, and had, at that time,
+but very limited resources. He founded, with his people, successively
+three settlements; first, Old Harmony, near the Ohio; then, New
+Harmony, on the Wabash, in the State of Indiana; and then, Economy,
+near Pittsburg. This last settlement has now about 150 houses, which
+at first were slightly built of wood, but are now succeeded by better
+ones of brick; they are two stories high, and neatly painted. The
+church is spacious and plain, built of brick, with a pretty steeple,
+and a good bell.
+
+The rapidity with which these settlements sprung up, amidst thick
+forests, proves the judgment and prudence of their founder. The order
+introduced at Economy is admirable; nobody is seen in the streets
+during the day; all the inhabitants are usefully employed; young men
+and women, and also the children, are distributed among the several
+manufactories, where they work and receive no wages, but all their
+wants are amply provided for, free of cost. They are cleanly and
+neatly dressed in their Swabian costume, and nothing but German is
+spoken amongst them. The possessions and the revenues of the whole
+establishment are the joint property of the community, every
+inhabitant having placed his property in the common fund. Mr. Rapp and
+his adopted son are the directors, and the only complaint is, that no
+account is given of the management, and that the government of the
+institution is rather too dictatorial. Be this as it may, it cannot be
+denied that the arrangement and direction of this artificial society
+are admirable, and do honour to the founder. Mr. Rapp has established
+several important manufactories with steam-engines; even silks are
+manufactured from silk produced on the spot. The mulberry plantations
+and the management of the silk-worms are under the especial care of
+Mr. Rapp's grand-daughter. The manufactories alone are said now to
+yield an annual profit of 20,000 dollars. Several large buildings have
+been erected for a cotton and a woollen cloth manufactory, a mill, an
+inn, where the accommodations are very good and reasonable, &c.
+Everything they want is raised or made by themselves. They have
+extensive corn fields and vineyards, and breed great numbers of [pg. 62]
+cattle. Mr. Rapp has erected a large building, with a great saloon in
+the upper story, where the inhabitants meet on festive occasions, and
+where they have musical entertainments. In the lower story of this
+building, a cabinet of natural history has been commenced, in three
+rooms, which already contains some very interesting specimens.
+
+After we had viewed all these objects, and had been led by Mr. Rapp,
+jun., through the manufactories, we went to the dwelling-house of the
+director of the establishment, and met with a very friendly reception
+from his family, who were dressed entirely in the manner of the
+country people of Wuertemberg. They told us they would never deviate
+from their old national manners, and would always remain Germans,
+which we were very glad to hear. Soon afterwards, the founder of the
+establishment, Mr. Rapp, came in. He was a vigorous old man, of
+venerable appearance, with white hair and a long beard. We supped with
+him, drank very good wine produced here, and, in conclusion, were
+entertained by six or seven girls and a young man, who is the
+schoolmaster, and is said to be well informed, with singing and
+playing on the piano. We here became acquainted with Mr. Ehrmann of
+Mannheim, an agreeable, well-educated man, whose wife is likewise a
+very interesting person, and who was engaged in establishing a
+manufactory near Economy.
+
+On the following day we viewed the park, in which there were seventeen
+Virginian deer. Most of them had already got their winter coat; some
+were still a little red: they cast their horns in March. As it was
+Sunday, the people assembled, at nine in the morning, in the church,
+which has neither pulpit nor organ. The men sat on the right hand of
+the preacher, the women on the left; the older persons in front, the
+young people a little way back. Mr. Rapp's family had the first place.
+When the congregation were assembled, old Mr. Rapp entered with a firm
+step, seated himself at a table which was on a raised platform, and
+gave out a hymn, which was sung in rather quick time. After a prayer
+delivered standing, he preached on a text from the bible, in a bold,
+figurative style, well suited to country people, and with very
+animated gesticulation. After the sermon some verses were sung, and
+Mr. Rapp delivered a prayer, which the congregation repeated after
+him, sitting. The word Amen was always repeated by the whole
+congregation. In the afternoon we took a very cordial farewell of the
+worthy family of Mr. Rapp, and set out on our return.
+
+The country about Pittsburg has some zoological rarities, specimens of
+which my travelling companions had collected during my absence. Among
+them are, in particular, many interesting fresh water shells of the
+Ohio. Several American naturalists have written on these Bivalve
+testacea; and there is, probably, no other country so rich in
+beautiful and manifold productions of this kind. On their excursions
+in the neighbouring islands in the Ohio, they met with trees of
+colossal size, and especially a maple, that measured twenty French
+feet in circumference at the height of twelve feet from the ground,
+where it divided into four thick parallel stems, from which [pg. 63] the
+branches issued. Among the remarkable and interesting natural
+productions of these rivers, we must mention the soft shell turtles of
+the Americans (_Trionyx_, _Aspidonectes_, Wagl.), of which there are
+two or three species. They grow to a great size, and are often seen in
+the markets. Another very remarkable animal, which is very numerous
+here, is the great Alleghany salamander (_Menopoma_, Harlan), which is
+here called alligator, and of which I obtained many specimens alive,
+so that Mr. Bodmer was able to make an accurate drawing from the life.
+Then there is the _Triton lateralis_, Say., or _Menobranchus
+lateralis_, Harlan, which differs from the preceding by the tufts at
+the gills, which remain even in old age. America is well known to
+abound in these singular enigmatical animal forms, which are nearly
+akin to the European _Proteus_, or _Hypochthon_.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[55] This plant, called by the Americans the poke plant, is used, in
+many parts, as a vegetable for the table. When the plant is young, and
+not above six inches high, of a whitish, and not dark green colour,
+the leaves are tender, and very delicate. It is thought that it might
+be very advisable to cultivate it in the kitchen gardens.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[56] Huntingdon, seat of the county of the same name, was settled
+about 1760 on the site of a famous Indian council ground, and named
+for Selena, Countess of Huntingdon. It was incorporated in 1760, and
+had a population at the last federal census of 6,053.--ED.
+
+[57] New Alexandria is a small village in Westmoreland County, on
+Loyalhanna Creek, thirty-three miles east of Pittsburg.
+
+New Salem (or Salem), in the same county, twenty-five miles east of
+Pittsburg, was laid out in 1833.
+
+Many early western travellers give descriptions and historical
+accounts of Pittsburg. See particularly Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume
+iv, pp. 242-255.--ED.
+
+[58] James R. Lambdin was born in Pittsburg (1807), studied under
+Thomas Sully, of Philadelphia (1823-25), and began painting in his
+native town. Later he made professional visits to the chief towns
+between Pittsburg and Mobile, and started a museum of art and
+antiquities at Louisville, Kentucky, where he lived several years.
+From 1837 until his death in 1889 he resided principally in
+Philadelphia, but painted much at Washington, executing portraits of
+all the presidents from John Q. Adams to James A. Garfield. Lambdin
+was appointed by President Buchanan (May 15, 1859) as one of the three
+members of the Art Commission provided for by acts of Congress on June
+12, 1858, and March 3, 1859, for the purpose of a survey of the public
+buildings at Washington and submitting a report on the system of
+decorations hitherto used, and recommending plans to secure a
+harmonious effect in the future. For this report, dated February 22,
+1860, see _Executive Documents, 36 Cong., 1 sess., No. 43_.--ED.
+
+[59] See Plate 6 in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[60] Maximilian is here referring to Duke Bernard, _Travels through
+North America during the Years 1825-26_ (2 vols., Philadelphia, 1828).
+For a short statement of George Rapp and his enterprises, see Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, pp. 50 and 54, notes 22 and 25
+respectively.
+
+Economy, an Ohio River town, in Beaver County, Pennsylvania, seventeen
+miles northwest of Pittsburg, was settled by the Harmonites in 1825.
+The property of the community is now quite valuable, but in 1902 the
+membership was only eight. Celibacy has been encouraged and new
+members have not been solicited, and the property is now in the hands
+of a single trustee.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+JOURNEY FROM PITTSBURG TO NEW HARMONY, ON THE WABASH, FROM 8TH TO 19TH
+OCTOBER, 1832
+
+   Cannonsburg--Wheeling--Embarkation in the Nile
+   Steam-boat--Marietta, on the Muskingum River--Indian
+   Antiquities--Flat-boats--Gallipolis--Portsmouth, at the mouth of
+   the Scioto River--Cincinnati--Big Miami River, which forms the
+   boundary between Ohio and Indiana--Louisville, on the Falls of
+   the Ohio--Horse-races--Embarkation in the Waterwitch
+   Steam-boat--The Cholera on Board--Mount Vernon--Landing--Journey
+   by Land to New Harmony.
+
+
+The Ohio, called by the French _La Belle Riviere_, was at this time
+too shallow at Pittsburg to be navigated by steamboats, and we were
+therefore obliged to go by land to Wheeling,[61] a distance of
+fifty-seven miles; by the river, it is ninety-five miles. After taking
+leave of Dr. Saynisch, who returned to Bethlehem, we crossed the Ohio,
+near the town, in a well contrived ferry, the wheels of which were
+moved by four horses. Our stage was drawn rapidly, by four good
+horses, along the path of the mountains, where the road passed through
+lofty forests, great part of which was, however, ruined and cleared.
+The foliage was adorned with the most beautiful varied tints of
+autumn, a circumstance which distinguishes North America, at this
+season, from all other countries. In the Brazils, it is the spring, or
+the transition from the rainy to the dry season, that adorns the
+forest with the most beautiful diversity of tints, which, however, are
+chiefly produced by the flowers, which frequently appear before the
+leaves. North America, on the other hand, has but few such flowering
+trees; most of them have catkins (_amenta_), and it is the foliage,
+which assumes in the autumn so great a variety of colours.
+
+On the next eminence, the road leaves the river, and turns to the
+south-west. Strata of coal appear in some places, and workmen were
+busy in removing the earth above them. We frequently met with European
+emigrants, most of them in their peasant's dress, with faces burnt by
+the sun, and carrying their children. The country consists of high
+hills and forests, and we frequently saw the robinia, pseud-acacia,
+which is partly planted for the sake of its timber, potatoes, [pg. 65]
+clover, and corn, which was now in the ear. A great deal of fruit is
+cultivated here, and the farmers were just reaping the maize. The
+farm-houses are all slightly built of wood, with the chimney on the
+outside, to avoid the danger of fire. As the sun shone with intense
+heat, the birds were all life, twittering on the high trees, where the
+loquacious blackbirds flew about in companies. The woods, presenting a
+beautiful mixture of yellow, vermilion, purple and green, gave us much
+pleasure, and we reached Chattier or Shirtee Creek, which, after
+numerous windings, falls into the Ohio, near Wheeling. We proceeded
+along its valley, where colossal planes and elms, as well as robinia
+and willows, afforded a welcome shade. We had passed several covered
+bridges before we reached Cannonsburg, eighteen miles from Pittsburg,
+where we changed horses, and, as usual in all such places in the
+United States, were gazed at by the curious and the idle. There is a
+college here for young divinity students. We now traversed the valley
+of the Chattier Creek, where the plane trees were very lofty and
+spreading. They were covered with their round fruit, from which the
+Americans have given the tree the name of button-wood.
+
+At noon we reached Washington,[62] a village, beyond which the
+country presented an alternation of forests and fields, where stumps
+of trees showed that the whole country east of the Mississippi was a
+primeval forest. We found an ample variety in the splendid woods,
+where the lime (_Tilia grandifolia_), with its colossal leaves, was
+not uncommon, and the willow-leaved oak (_Quercus phellos_), was
+likewise in great abundance, the foliage of which resembles our white
+willow, but the bark and fruit are exactly like those of the oak.
+After passing a village called Alexandria, or more properly Alexander
+we reached the boundary of the state of Pennsylvania, and entered
+Virginia, which last state has a narrow strip of land on the eastern
+bank of the Ohio. The land here is said to be fruitful, and very well
+cultivated, though we did not immediately perceive this in the narrow
+valley of the Wheeling Creek, through which we drove. We saw numbers
+of young oxen, all brought for sale from the state of Ohio, where the
+breeding of cattle is very extensive. Many of these oxen had
+uncommonly large horns, others none at all. It was a beautiful
+moonlight evening when we passed the Mean Creek, which joins that
+above-mentioned, and both together forming Wheeling Creek. At this
+place, not far from the road-side, there is a pillar erected in honour
+of Mr. Henry Clay, who had been very instrumental in the opening of
+this road. The night prevented our taking a view of it. From an
+eminence we saw before us numerous lamps in Wheeling, and the Ohio
+sparkling in the light of the moon, and then took up our quarters at
+an inn at that place. Wheeling is a rapidly improving town, containing
+5,200 inhabitants, where at this time they were building whole
+streets, and is situated on a ledge of the mountain, on the bank of
+the Ohio. On the summit there is not much more than one broad,
+unpaved street, with footpaths of bricks: shops of all kinds were
+already opened. The Ohio at this place is about as broad as the
+Moselle near its mouth. The banks are moderately high wooded
+mountains, the uncultivated places in which are often overgrown with
+_Datura_. Two [pg. 66] steam-boats were expected on the 9th of October,
+and at noon we embarked on board the Nile, a small vessel, because
+steamers of a large size cannot come so high up the river. Our large
+or lower cabin had sixteen beds, the upper cabin being appropriated to
+the women. The river was, at this time, very low, and its banks, from
+forty to fifty feet high, consisted of yellowish red clay and strata
+of sand.
+
+The traces of the great inundation of the preceding spring were
+everywhere visible in uprooted trees, thrown one over the other. The
+water at that time overflowed the lower stories of the houses of
+Wheeling; whereas it was now so low, that our boat was obliged to stop
+for the night. Early on the following morning, however, the 10th of
+October, we passed Elizabeth Town. On the banks of the river lay
+pirogues, composed of the trunk of a tree hollowed out, like those in
+Brazil, and small habitations were scattered in the lofty and
+picturesque forests. A little field of maize generally surrounded
+these dwellings, and the recently felled trees indicated that it was a
+new settlement. The eminences on the banks of the Ohio are, in
+general, rounded, steep, wooded hills, separated by valleys or
+ravines. In many places stacks of wood were piled up for the
+steam-boats, and some was already in boats. We arrived at New Town, on
+the right bank, at the mouth of the Sunfish Creek, a village with only
+eight houses, which was not yet marked on Tanner's map.[63] Near
+Fishing Creek, which falls into the Ohio, we saw the white-headed
+eagle soaring in the air, while the kingfishers flew about the banks,
+and the note of the black crow sounded in the tall forests. Near the
+village of Sistersville, on the right bank, in the state of Ohio, the
+sand-banks in the river were covered with the yellow blossoms of some
+plant, which, however, I was not able clearly to distinguish; but it
+was an autumnal flower, and the wind reminded us of the approach of
+the cold season, blowing quantities of leaves from the forest, in some
+places entirely covering the surface of the water with them. Towards
+noon, the sun shone bright, and the gay tints of the forest appeared
+more lovely than ever; colossal planes, maples, tulip trees, beeches,
+elms, ashes, limes, walnuts, and other trees, grow to a great height,
+and beneath their shade we saw many rustic bridges, or planks, thrown
+picturesquely across the little brooks. The trunks of the trees,
+covered with the _Hedera quinquefolia_, which made them look like
+scarlet columns, and the varied tints of the foliage, charm the
+beholder. All along the Ohio, Mississippi, and Lower Missouri, the
+papaw tree (_Asimina triloba Dunal_) grows as underwood. Its fruit,
+resembling a small cucumber, was now ripe, and great quantities were
+brought on board our steamer. This tree has a beautiful light green,
+large, smooth leaf, and violet brown flower, which grows isolated, but
+it does not attain a greater height than between twenty and thirty
+feet. The fruit has a pleasant taste, but the smell is disagreeable.
+It contains a whitish, juicy pulp, and twelve thick black kernels.
+
+A heavy fall of rain was very welcome to us, the water in the river
+being so low that our boat frequently grounded. At a narrow part of
+the river we came to the village of Newark, and then to the mouth of
+the Muskingum River, at the town of Marietta, which was founded in
+1788.[64] This [pg. 67] place is small, but it has neat brick buildings,
+some of which looked like churches. We have read much about the
+ancient Indian remains and ramparts, between the Ohio and the
+Muskingum. Smith Barton, Attwater, Schultz, and especially Warden,[65]
+have written on this highly interesting subject, and given ground
+plans of the Indian ramparts, which are met with at many places in the
+state of Ohio, at Cincinnati, Wheeling, Chillicothe, as well as in all
+the States west of the Alleghanys, and respecting which Warden has
+collected everything that is known; but most of these interesting
+remains have been entirely annihilated by the love of devastation, or
+the negligence of the new settlers. Thus Marietta is built just on
+the fore part of the Indian works, and many of them are no longer to
+be seen. It is much to be lamented that the government of the United
+States suffers all this to be done without any attempt to prevent it.
+It looks on unmoved, while the plough continues from year to year the
+destruction of these remains of ages long since past, the only
+historical monuments of this country. Schultz gave, in 1820, a ground
+plan of the ramparts near Marietta, as Smith Barton and Warden did
+more recently; and Mr. Thomas Say made a sketch of them in 1815, which
+he communicated to me. A great part of them has been since ploughed
+over.
+
+From Marietta we came to the Island of Muskingum, and then to Vienna
+Island; opposite to which, on the left bank, lies the village of
+Vienna. Swallows, which had long since left Pennsylvania, were still
+flying about here. We everywhere heard accounts of the great flood in
+the Ohio, when the steam-boats were on a level with the second story
+of the houses in Marietta.
+
+We saw tall forest trees, among the thick branches of which the river
+had deposited beams and other pieces of wood.[66] Below Parkersburg, a
+village on the southern side, the little Kenhava River issues from the
+high bank opposite Belpie, a settlement of a few houses.[67] A
+steam-boat, which had been entirely crushed by the ice, proved how
+violent the effects of the breaking up of the ice in the Ohio
+sometimes are. Our captain lay to for the night, on the right bank,
+which was necessary, on account of the unfavourable weather; the rain
+being so heavy, that it drenched the upper row of beds in the large
+cabin.
+
+On the 11th October the weather was fairer, but very cool. The
+appearance of the bank was the same as before--an unbroken, thick
+forest, with here and there some little settlements. We reached, at an
+early hour, the Little Hocking River, which comes from the state of
+Ohio. Ducks, particularly teal, flew past us, and we observed, also,
+many other birds of passage on their flight. Near Shade Creek, the
+banks of the river consisted of stratified, rocky walls, which
+appeared to be Grauwacke slate;[68] we observed, in the forest, trees
+of remarkable forms and colours; the trunks, covered with the scarlet
+foliage of the five-leaved ivy, were particularly beautiful. We
+frequently met, in the river, with flat boats, which are built all
+along the banks [pg. 68] of the Ohio, from Pittsburg, and are sent with
+the produce of the country to New Orleans. These boats are large
+four-cornered chests, composed of beams and planks, are often heavily
+laden, draw much water, and, having neither masts nor sails, proceed
+very slowly. They are propelled with large oars, and can only go down
+the river; they are many months on the voyage to New Orleans, and the
+rowers are commonly new European emigrants, hired for low wages, and
+often merely for a free passage. Many of these boats are wrecked, and
+they are, therefore, frequently insured; at New Orleans they are sold
+for lumber.
+
+The woods in the valley of the Ohio are more lofty and luxuriant than
+on the other side of the Alleghany Mountains; vines twine round the
+trees, and present a faint image of the woods of warmer countries. The
+kingfisher was common; the swallows had not yet taken their flight,
+and in some places the sandpiper was seen upon the bank. In the
+vicinity of the houses were cattle, horses, swine, large sheep, and
+numerous flocks of European geese and ducks; here, too, the papaw tree
+was sometimes planted in rows. The river increased in breadth, but not
+in depth, of which we had the proof before us, for a flat boat had run
+aground, and the people stood in the water, trying to get it afloat.
+In this part of the country there are, in the state of Ohio, many
+Swiss colonists, who are much commended for their industry. The soil
+is extremely fruitful, and needs no manure. The dwellings of these
+people are small log-houses, exactly like the huts in Switzerland.
+Towards noon, before we reached Point Pleasant, we saw, in many places
+on the Ohio, considerable coal-pits, the sulphureous smell of which
+was perceptible in the steamer; many boats lay ready to take in
+cargoes; negro children were sitting in groups on the bank, near their
+extensive plantations of maize. These people are free in the state of
+Ohio. After we had passed Point Pleasant, a village on the left bank,
+where fine forests cover the low bank of the great Kenhava River,
+which here falls into the Ohio, we reached, in about twenty minutes,
+Gallipolis, on the right bank, an old French colony, the inhabitants
+of which still speak the French language.[69] Immediately below that
+town, there is a fine forest of beech trees; on the water-side,
+thickets of plane, and between them the papaw tree took the place
+which, in Pennsylvania, is occupied by the _Rhododendron maximum_;
+willows grew in front of the planes.
+
+The sun disappeared behind the hills on the bank; the evening sky was
+clear and serene, and the bright mirror of the Ohio extended unruffled
+near Racoon Creek, where we saw large flocks of ducks. We intended to
+continue our voyage during the night; but, about nine o'clock, we
+struck violently on a sand-bank, near the Indian Guyandot River, where
+there is a small village of the same name, and, as a thick fog arose,
+we lay to, six miles below Guyandot.[70]
+
+On the 12th of October, in the morning, a dense fog covered the river,
+and the thermometer was, at half-past six o'clock, at 10 deg. Reaumur,
+above zero. We passed the mouth of Symes Creek, and then Burlington, a
+small scattered village in Lawrence County, where our boat struck upon
+some stones, and was thrown a little on one side. On the left bank was
+Cadetsburg, [pg. 69] with Big Sandy Creek, then Hanging Rock, a small
+village, where most of the iron utensils for the whole of Ohio are
+shipped. The situation of the place is picturesque, surrounded with
+forests and rocks. On the left, or Kentucky bank, we passed
+Greenupsburg, a row of seventeen or eighteen small houses, on the high
+bank. The inhabitants, in order to attract the notice of the vessels
+that pass by to their public-houses, stores, or shops, have set up
+posts, with boards painted white, on which their trade, &c., is
+described in very large letters. The beech woods on this part of the
+river were remarkably fine, their foliage green and yellow. On our
+right hand was the little Scioto River; we then came to the village of
+Portsmouth, at the mouth of the Scioto River, on the Ohio bank, where
+the celebrated Ohio Canal begins, which connects that river with lake
+Erie. At this place we took on board a number of European emigrants,
+among whom were many Germans, with their baggage, beds, and other
+effects, and many children. The negroes brought provisions for sale;
+one of them had a number of fowls, all of which escaped, and caused no
+little amusement. From this place, fine forests covered the bank, in
+which were tall poplars (_Populus Angulata_, or _Canadensis_), which
+I had not before observed. Here, too, I noticed some interesting forms
+of mountains, which in general are very rare in this country. Most of
+the summits are round, some broad, but very few pointed. Towards
+evening we came to the village of Rockville,[71] on the right bank,
+which was not marked on our map, and lay to, at nightfall, when we
+learned that our vessel had caught fire, but happily it was already
+extinguished. On the bank near the steam-boat, a large fire was
+burning, the reflection of which, on the dark forest, had a fine
+effect, and so had the steamers that hastened past us, which were
+brightly lighted up inside, and emitted sparks of fire as they rushed
+along in the dark night.
+
+On the 13th, at daybreak, the landscape was obscured by rain. We had
+passed, during the night, Adamsville, Manchester, Aberdeen, Ripley,
+Vanceburg, Maysville, and Augusta, and were now off the village of
+Neville, where the Helen Mar steam-boat lay near us, to take in wood.
+We then came to Moscow, then to Point Pleasant, and on the right bank
+to New Richmond.[72] Near the little Miami River, six miles from
+Cincinnati, the Ohio was so shallow, that we saw the shells at the
+bottom, and our boat struck several times. The Miami River was nearly
+dry. At Columbia, in the state of Ohio, the valley becomes rather
+wider, but the hills soon close in again upon the river, and we come
+to the beginning of the great town of Cincinnati.
+
+Cincinnati, the most important and flourishing town of the West, with
+more than 36,000 inhabitants, was at this time visited by the cholera,
+which, as we were assured by a physician who came to our vessel,
+carried off, on an average, forty persons daily. I therefore resolved
+not to stop now, but to visit this town on my return; our baggage was
+transferred to the Portsmouth steamer, which was just about to depart;
+and at noon we reached the mouth of Big Miami River.[73]
+
+On the 14th of October, we had pleasant sunshiny weather. The river
+had become considerably broader, when we came to Six-miles Island, a
+beautiful island six miles from Louisville. [pg. 70] We had passed
+several places during the night, and likewise the celebrated Big-bone
+Lick,[74] where colossal bones of the mammoth have been dug up at the
+foot of a hill of black earth. I would gladly have stopped at this
+spot, but some of our passengers, who were well acquainted with the
+country, assured me that there was now nothing to be seen there, nor
+was anything more found. All that had been obtained had been sold to
+England and the American museums.
+
+Fossil bones[75] of animals are still found in the United States, but
+the possessors having learnt the value of such things, ask so high a
+price for them that it is difficult to obtain them; they are, besides,
+frequently presented, out of patriotism, to the American museums.
+
+We soon reached Louisville, a considerable town, with 12,000
+inhabitants, which in 1800 had only 600.[76] It is in the state of
+Kentucky, and, when seen from the river, does not make nearly so good
+an appearance as Cincinnati. Negroes conveyed our baggage to the inn,
+where we found, as usual, a great number of gentlemen, for the most
+part travelling merchants. The merchants are, in America, the class of
+people among whom the most idleness is found, and they are extremely
+numerous. The least numerous classes are the men of learning, and the
+military; the latter, in particular, so very few, that they are not at
+all remarked. The young men who, in North America, besiege the doors
+of the inns, are, doubtless, most of them, traders. Foreigners are
+often treated with contempt by these persons, who are usually equally
+conceited and unpolished, and make observations, as soon as they
+discover a foreigner, either by his incorrect pronunciation of
+English, or by his dress. This American conceit is to be attributed
+partly to their excessive patriotism, and partly to their ignorance,
+and want of acquaintance with other countries.
+
+When the dinner-hour was come, such a crowd of gentlemen had assembled
+before the house, that, at the ringing of the second (dinner) bell,
+the dining-room was in a manner carried by storm. All rushed
+impetuously into the room, every one making good use of his elbows,
+and in ten minutes all these people had dined and hastened out again.
+Mr. Wenzel, a German merchant, to whom I had letters, had the kindness
+to show me the town and neighbourhood. Louisville has the appearance
+of being likely soon to become an important town, and many new houses
+were, in fact, building. The streets are long, broad, and straight,
+crossing each other at right angles, and the situation on the Ohio is
+very favourable for trade. Handsome, showy shops are common here, as
+in all the towns of the United States, and elegance of dress
+characterizes everywhere, even in the smallest places, the inhabitants
+of this country, the great object of whose efforts is the acquisition
+of wealth. As it was Sunday, the various sects of the population were
+flocking to their respective places of worship; afterwards, many of
+them were driving out in their gigs. There were already above thirty
+hackney carriages, partly belonging to negroes, of whom only the far
+[pg. 71] smaller portion are free in the state of Kentucky. The state of
+oppression in which the negro slaves live in North America, makes them
+corrupt and knavish, which travellers often have occasion to learn by
+their own experience. At Louisville, the cholera had already appeared.
+Five persons, most of them negroes, were carried off the day before
+our arrival, and a general panic had seized the inhabitants.
+
+Mr. Wenzel took us to a spot which was intended for horse-races, an
+institution quite new in the Western States. A society had purchased a
+beautiful level spot of ground, surrounded with woods, and about four
+miles in circumference. This place was surrounded with palisades, with
+several stands in the centre, and stables in the neighbourhood for the
+horses. The horses of Kentucky are considered to be the best in the
+country; the stallions which were to run, and some of which had come
+from a distance, seemed to be mostly of a very good breed, not large,
+but well built. The first races were to continue the whole of the next
+week. This institution will, doubtless, have a good effect in
+improving the breed of horses, and afford the inhabitants of the town
+and neighbourhood both advantage and amusement.
+
+In the afternoon we left Louisville to embark at Portland, below the
+town, on account of the Falls of the Ohio, that now cannot be
+navigated past the town, and therefore a canal has been made, where,
+by the aid of five sluices, the boats are raised twenty-two feet.
+Those who land at Louisville embark again at Portland, where there is
+generally a great number of steam-boats, among which we chose the
+Water-witch, bound to New Orleans.[77] There were a great many
+passengers eager to embark, who drove in carriages into the river to
+reach the steam-boat, to which the baggage was conveyed in the same
+manner. The loading of the vessel not being completed, we did not set
+out till the 16th of October. At seven o'clock in the morning of that
+day, Reaumur's thermometer was at 5 deg. above zero, while a thick fog
+covered the river. We put off at half-past ten, and had a fine view of
+the magnificent Ohio, with the large town of Louisville in Kentucky,
+and New Albany in Indiana,[78] opposite, with numerous steam-boats on
+both banks. It was soon discovered that our engine was out of order,
+and we were forced to lie to, on the Indiana side, to repair it. As
+this required much time, we took the opportunity of exploring the
+first forest in this State. The bank was fifty feet high, and steep;
+the upper part of the declivity was covered with _Datura_, the seeds
+of which were now ripe, but very few of the light purple flowers were
+to be seen. The beautiful blue flowering _Eupatorium coelestinum_
+and the _Lobelia syphilitica_ bore their flowers amongst the
+thorn-apples. On the summit of the bank there was a noble forest of
+tall, thick beech, maple, oak, walnut trees, &c., in which there were
+some plantations of maize, with their block-houses. The underwood was
+everywhere the papaw tree, and on the skirts of the forest the yellow
+flowering _Cassia Marylandica_, with ripe seed. Old trunks lay rotting
+on the ground, which was partly covered with the falling leaves.
+
+At nightfall our engine was repaired, and we proceeded on our voyage,
+and on the morning [pg. 72] of the 17th reached the village of
+Brandenburg, on the Kentucky bank, which is here rocky, and marked
+with horizontal white stripes, or strata. The mountains were rounded
+and covered with wood. In Indiana the forest was cleared in some
+places for plantations, which afforded a view into the picturesque
+interior; for on these cleared spots the tall forest trees stood, as
+in the primeval forests in Brazil, like columns crowded together. This
+dense forest was interrupted for a short space by the towns of
+Leavenworth and Rome, in Indiana, and Stevensport in Kentucky; the two
+last with some indifferent buildings. From this part the country had
+no great variety, the forests being seldom interrupted. The islands
+were bordered with willow bushes, with tall trees in the middle. On
+the bank where the rock was exposed, on account of the low water in
+the river, we observed singular forms produced by the action of the
+stream. They consisted of round or elliptical stratified masses, which
+gradually decreased in breadth, so that the whole looked like a
+truncated pyramid rising in terraces. Before night we reached
+Cloverburg, in Kentucky, and lay to till the stars or the moon should
+appear.[79] Numerous card parties sat down in the great cabin, where
+the heat was intolerable. Our beds swarmed with cockroaches, which ran
+over our faces and hands, or fell from the ceiling. These disagreeable
+animals are as common here as in Brazil; they gnaw everything, and,
+being quite soft, are crushed by the slightest motion.
+
+On the 18th, at half-past six o'clock in the morning, the thermometer
+was +16 deg. Reaumur, with rain, and wind, and a clouded sky. We reached
+at an early hour the little place of Rockport,[80] in Indiana, and at
+half-past eight, Owenburg, or Yellow Banks, in Kentucky, where we
+landed many passengers. We saw the Turkey buzzard hovering over the
+woods--a bird which we had not observed since we left Cincinnati, and
+which is not found to the west of the Alleghanys. The Ohio, though the
+water was extremely low, was still very broad and beautiful, its
+wooded banks rather low. French Island, and some others, covered with
+bushes and lime trees, lay quite dry, surrounded with a large
+sand-bank. It was discovered that we had the cholera on board. A man
+from Kentucky had declared himself ill early in the morning, and was
+dead before eleven o'clock, though the Captain employed all the
+remedies in his power. He was quite well in the evening, had played at
+cards all night, and did not complain till towards morning. A coffin
+was made of some planks; the vessel lay to on the bank, which was
+steep, and the bell was rung while the body was conveyed on shore and
+buried. Many of our passengers landed to see the funeral; others were
+extremely alarmed, and, meantime, took a walk.
+
+After the funeral was over, and a white board, with the name of the
+deceased, had been set up on the grave, the bell called the passengers
+on board; in half an hour we reached Evansville on the Indiana bank;
+soon afterwards Pigeon Creek; above this, on the other bank, the Green
+River, and subsequently the village of Henderson.[81] Here we took in
+fresh provisions, and, among the rest, 1000 fowls were offered for
+sale, of which we took a good supply at a dollar per dozen. [pg. 73] The
+sun was setting with great splendour as we left this place; the broad,
+unruffled bosom of the Ohio shone like a silver mirror, in which the
+beautiful wooded banks were reflected, and the magnificent purple and
+orange hues of the sky tinged the river with their glow.
+
+Towards midnight we reached Mount Vernon,[82] where we landed,
+intending to proceed, the next morning, to New Harmony, to visit the
+naturalists at that place. After passing the night at an indifferent
+inn, I set out for New Harmony, on the 19th of October, in the
+morning. I had been indisposed, as well as my huntsman, since I left
+Louisville, and was not in a mood properly to appreciate the fine,
+lofty forests of Indiana, the road through which was very bad and
+rough; the last part of the forest was remarkably grand and wild:
+vines and other climbing plants hung down from the old trees. The
+_Amorpha fruticosa_ frequently formed the underwood. At some of the
+isolated dwellings of the farmers, racoon skins were hung up to dry,
+and the beautiful large feathers of the wild turkey were scattered on
+the ground. After having passed, in the most oppressive heat, the Big
+Creek, which flows between the wooded hills, we soon reached the
+fertile valley of the Wabash, near to which New Harmony is built.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[61] For the early history of Wheeling, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in
+our volume iii, p. 33, note 15.--ED.
+
+[62] For notes on Canonsburg, Washington, and Alexandria, see Harris's
+_Journal_, in our volume iii, pp. 347, 348, notes 31, 32, 33
+respectively. The Associate Presbyterian Theological Seminary was
+organized at Canonsburg in 1794, with Rev. John Anderson as the first
+instructor.--ED.
+
+[63] For Elizabeth Town, New Town, and Sistersville, see,
+respectively, Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 34, note 7; A.
+Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 49, note 66; and Woods's
+_English Prairie_, in our volume x, p. 223, note 25.
+
+Henry S. Tanner (1786-1858), a resident of Philadelphia, engraved and
+published atlases and separate maps. Worthy of mention are the _New
+American Atlas_ (Philadelphia, 1817-23), _The World_ (1825), _Map of
+the United States of Mexico_ (1825), _Map of the United States of
+America_ (1829). Tanner was a member of the geographical societies of
+London and Paris, made numerous contributions to periodicals, and
+published the _American Traveller_ (Philadelphia, 1836), _Central
+Traveller_ (New York, 1840), _New Picture of Philadelphia_
+(Philadelphia, 1840), _Description of the Canals and Railroads of the
+United States_ (New York, 1840), and _View of the Valley of the
+Mississippi_ (Philadelphia, 1832).--ED.
+
+[64] Maximilian is probably here referring to the hamlet Newport, in
+Washington County, instead of to Newark. Newport was not laid out as a
+village until 1839. For an account of Marietta see A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 34, note 16.--ED.
+
+[65] Benjamin Smith Barton (1766-1815) studied in Philadelphia,
+Edinburgh, London, and Goettingen, practiced medicine in Philadelphia,
+and for a number of years taught in the college of that city and its
+successor, the University of Pennsylvania. He made numerous
+contributions to scientific journals, and published _Observations on
+Some Parts of Natural History_ (London, 1787), _New Views on the
+Origin of the Tribes of America_ (1797), etc.
+
+Caleb Atwater (1778-1867) went to Ohio in 1811, served several years
+in the legislature of that state, and was appointed Indian
+commissioner under Jackson. He published _A Tour to Prairie du Chien_
+(1831), _Western Antiquities_ (1833), _Writings of Caleb Atwater_
+(1833), and _History of Ohio_ (1838).
+
+Christian Schultz, _Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of
+New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee and
+through the territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New
+Orleans: performed in the years 1807-1808_ (New York, 1810).
+
+David Baillie Warden (1778-1845) was for many years United States
+consul at Paris. He was much interested in antiquities and published
+_Recherches sur les Antiquites de l'Amerique Septentrionale_ (Paris,
+1827); also earlier _A Statistical, Political, and Historical Account
+of the United States of North America_ (Edinburgh, 1819).--ED.
+
+[66] Audubon (see "Ornithological Biography," vol. i. p. 156) mentions an
+instance of a cow that swam in to the window of a house which was seven
+feet above the ground, and sixty feet above low-watermark.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[67] For Parkersburg, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 224, note 27. The other settlement should be Belpre, for which see
+our volume iv, p. 127, note 87.--ED.
+
+[68] For points of historic interest connected with the Little
+Hockhocking (Hocking) River, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume
+i, p. 131, note 99.
+
+Shade Creek rises in Atkins County, flows southeast through Meigs
+County, and enters the Ohio about twenty-one miles below
+Blennerhassett's Island.--ED.
+
+[69] For Point Pleasant and Gallipolis, see respectively Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 132, note 101, and F. A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, volume iii, p. 185, note 34.--ED.
+
+[70] Racoon Creek, ninety miles in length, drains Vinton County, Ohio,
+flows through Gallia County, and joins the Ohio River seven miles
+below Gallipolis.
+
+For Guyandotte River, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 229, note 33.--ED.
+
+[71] Symmes Creek, which enters the Ohio five miles above Burlington,
+probably derived its name, like the village Symmes, from John Cleves
+Symmes, appointed judge in the Northwest Territory in 1787. In 1788
+Judge Symmes received a federal grant of a million acres of public
+land, upon which was founded Cincinnati and North Bend.
+
+Burlington, in the southwestern extremity of Ohio, was once the seat
+of Lawrence County.
+
+Catlettsburg, here incorrectly written Cadetsburg, is the seat of Boyd
+County, Kentucky. See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 155, note
+103.
+
+The Sandy, or the Big Sandy, River (not creek), formed by the junction
+of Tug and Levisa forks, flows north to the Ohio River, separating the
+states of Kentucky and West Virginia. It drains an area of four
+thousand square miles, and is navigable for small steamboats to a
+distance of a hundred miles.
+
+Hanging Rock, named for a high sandstone escarpment, is on the right
+bank of the river, three miles below Ironton.
+
+For Greenupsburg and Governor Greenup, see Woods's _English Prairie_,
+in our volume x, p. 229, note 34.
+
+Concerning the historic importance of the Scioto River, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 134, note 102; and for the Ohio Canal,
+see Flint's _Letters_ in our volume ix, p. 96, note 44.
+
+Rockville, Adams County, Ohio, was laid out in 1830.--ED.
+
+[72] Adamsville, Muskingum County, Ohio, was laid out in 1832 by M.
+Adams.
+
+For the early history of Manchester, Ohio, and its founder, General
+Nathaniel Massie, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 160, note
+107.
+
+Aberdeen, Brown County, Ohio, was laid out by Nathan Ellis in 1816.
+
+For Ripley, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x, p. 233,
+note 41; for Vanceburg, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 165,
+note 111; for Maysville, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume
+iii, p. 35, note 23; and for Augusta, see Flint's _Letters_, in our
+volume ix, p. 148, note 69.
+
+Neville, in Clermont County, Ohio, was settled by John Gregg in 1795.
+
+The "Helen Mar" steamboat (88 tons) was built at Cincinnati in 1832;
+it was reported as being out of commission in 1837.
+
+Moscow, Clermont County, Ohio, was laid out by Owen Davis (1816); and
+Point Pleasant, five miles farther down the river, in the same county,
+was platted in the same year by Joseph Jackson for its proprietor,
+Henry Ludlow.
+
+For New Richmond, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p. 148,
+note 70.--ED.
+
+[73] For the founding of Cincinnati, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our
+volume iv, p. 256, note 166.--ED.
+
+[74] For Big Bone Lick and the remains of the mammoth found there, see
+Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, p. 135, note 104.--ED.
+
+[75] In Ferussac's "Bulletin des Sciences," 1831, there is a notice of
+a colossal animal, sixty feet long, lately discovered there, and the
+whole story was invented, merely to attract visitors. In Silliman's
+American Journal (Vol. xx. No. 2, July, 1831, page 370), there is a
+correct description of these bones, in refutation of the preceding
+statement.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[76] On the early history of Louisville and the Falls of the Ohio, see
+Croghan's _Journals_ in our volume i, p. 136, note 106.--ED.
+
+[77] Portland was laid out in 1814 for the proprietor, William Lytle;
+it was incorporated in 1834, and annexed to Louisville in 1837.
+
+The "Water Witch" (120 tons) was built at Nashville in 1831, being
+sunk near Plaquemine, Louisiana, two years later.--ED.
+
+[78] For New Albany, see Hulme's _Journal_, in our volume x, p. 44,
+note 15.--ED.
+
+[79] Brandenburg is the seat of Meade County, Kentucky, forty miles
+below Louisville. It was incorporated in 1825, and named after Colonel
+Solomon Brandenburg, the proprietor.
+
+Leavenworth, named for Messrs. S. M. and J. Leavenworth, is the seat
+of justice in Crawford County, Indiana. It was located in 1818.
+
+Rome, Perry County, Indiana, was laid out (May, 1818) by one Cummings,
+and named Washington; in the fall of the same year the name was
+changed to Franklin; when it was made the county seat in 1819, it was
+given its present name. See _History of Warrick, Spencer, and Perry
+Counties, Indiana_ (Chicago, 1885).
+
+Stevensport was incorporated in 1825. Cloverport, originally
+Jossville, was established in 1828.--ED.
+
+[80] For Rockport, see Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x, p.
+251, note 58.
+
+Owensboro (incorrectly written Owenburg) is the seat of justice for
+Daviess County, Kentucky. Originally called Rossborough, the name was
+later changed to that now used, being given in honor of Colonel
+Abraham Owen, killed in the battle of Tippecanoe. The town was
+incorporated February 3, 1817.--ED.
+
+[81] An account of the founding of Evansville is given in Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, p. 45, note 16.
+
+For Henderson, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 267, note
+175.--ED.
+
+[82] For Mount Vernon, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p.
+306, note 154. A short account of New Harmony is given in Hulme's
+_Journal_, in our volume x, p. 50, note 22.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY ABOUT NEW HARMONY IN INDIANA, AND WINTER
+RESIDENCE THERE FROM OCTOBER 19TH, 1832, TO MARCH 16TH, 1833
+
+   New Harmony on the Wabash--The
+   Environs--Forests--Animals--Geological
+   Formation--Climate--Aborigines--Remains of the former
+   Population--The present Indians--The White Usurpers--Cultivation
+   of the Country--Productions--Breed of Cattle--Buffaloes--The
+   Naturalists at Harmony--Excursions--Fox River--Black River--Long
+   Pond--The present sanitary State of the Country.
+
+
+New Harmony was founded by Mr. Rapp, and his Swabian followers, in a
+wooded plain on the left or east bank of the Wabash, about fifteen or
+twenty miles distant from any other place. As Duke Bernhard of Saxe
+Weimar has already spoken on this subject, I need not give any further
+account of the history of this settlement; I will only add that Mr.
+Owen, a Scotchman, bought the whole of Mr. Rapp, but afterwards
+disposed of it to Mr. William Maclure, President of the Academy of
+Natural Sciences of Philadelphia.[83] At the time of our visit,
+Harmony had fallen into decay, and the people whom Mr. Maclure had
+settled there, were in part dispersed. Two sons of Mr. Owen were,
+however, still here, and also Mr. Thomas Say, and Mr. Lesueur; the
+first, well known as having accompanied Major Long in his two journeys
+into the interior, and the second, by his voyage round the world with
+Captain Baudin, and the celebrated Piron. Though Mr. Maclure did not
+appear to take any active part in the management of Harmony, because
+the climate did not agree with him, and he therefore resided in
+Mexico, he took care to furnish Mr. Say with a fine library of books
+on Natural History, which was constantly enriched with the most
+valuable new works published in Europe. He likewise had here a
+printing press, a copper-plate press, and an engraver. Mr. Maclure had
+purchased in France all the plates of Audebert and Vieillot's splendid
+ornithological works, which are preserved in the library.[84] Mr. Say
+has undertaken the superintendence of Mr. Maclure's property on the
+Wabash, but lives in a very retired manner, devoted to the study of
+natural history, and to literary pursuits.
+
+[pg. 75] Harmony is now a large village, with about 600 inhabitants; the
+buildings, which are partly of brick, are detached from each other;
+the streets are at right angles, broad, and unpaved. The church built
+by Mr. Rapp has been transformed into an amateur theatre. The
+situation of Harmony is by no means unpleasant. The Wabash, a fine
+river, as broad as the Moselle, winds between banks which are now
+cultivated, but were lately covered with thick forests. A hilly tract,
+covered with woods, bounds the valley of the Wabash, which is
+frequently overflowed by the river, and thereby gains in fertility.
+The place itself lies rather higher than the valley, surrounded by
+orchards, and is not exposed to inundations. The Wabash divides at
+Harmony into two arms, the eastern of which is called Cutoff
+River,[85] and further down into several branches, forming many wooded
+islands, the largest of which are inhabited.
+
+New Harmony,[86] is surrounded on all sides by fields, which are from
+600 to 800 paces in diameter; all around are lofty forests, where
+settlers have everywhere cultivated detached patches. These people are
+generally called backwoodsmen, who live like half savages, without any
+education or religious instruction. The forests which they inhabit are
+very extensive, and the soil extremely fertile: vegetation is much
+more luxuriant than to the east of the Alleghanys; and, therefore, a
+short description of the natural productions of the country will not
+be out of place here.
+
+Some remarkable peculiarities strike the observer when he looks at the
+forests on the Wabash; one of these is the want of evergreens, if we
+except the _Viscum flavescens_, _Pursh_, _Bignonia cruciata_,
+_Equisetum hyemale_, and _Miegia macrosperma_. The leaves of that
+bignonia, for the most part, remain green in the winter, as well as
+those of the miegia, and the stalks of the _Equisetum hyemale_, at
+least, in mild winters, which often grow to the height of eight or ten
+feet in the dry forests. The planes often attain an enormous size, and
+are then generally hollow, and divided into several colossal branches.
+We measured several of these trees, and found one that was forty one
+feet five inches in circumference. The hollow inside was twelve feet
+in diameter, so that in our winter excursions we used to light a fire
+in it, where we sheltered from the wind. Tall tulip trees shoot up
+straight as masts, blossom, and bear seeds at their summits, unseen by
+human eye. Maples of great height and circumference, many species of
+oak, especially the mossy overcap oak (_Q. macrocarpa_), with its
+large acorns, which, at this time, lay on the ground, stand crowded
+together. A great many species of trees are mixed together; among them
+the _Gymnocladus Canadensis_, or _Guilandina Bonduc_, with its broad
+pods, the divers kinds of walnut trees, the _Gleditschia tricanthos_,
+with its formidable thorns; and many climbing plants twine round the
+trunks, and among them, the most beautiful of all, the _Bignonia
+radicans_.
+
+In the forests of Indiana the ground is covered with a thick
+undergrowth, fifteen, twenty, or thirty feet high, consisting chiefly
+of the papaw tree, the spinewood (_Laurus Benzoin_), and the red bud;
+the flowers of the two latter precede the leaf. Under these lower
+trees, shrubs cover [pg. 76] the ground. No pine, rhododendron, kalmia,
+azalea, magnolia, nor even the chestnut tree, are found in these
+forests; but they seem to be especially the native country of the
+beautiful catalpa tree, of which it was not known in what part of
+America it properly grew wild, and which here attains a considerable
+height and size.
+
+These lofty forests re-echo with the hammering of the numerous
+woodpeckers; and, during the winter, the scarlet cardinal (_Fring.
+cardinalis_) shines in the distance; and the titmouse (_Parus.
+bicolor_, and _Atricapillus_), and the nuthatch (_Sitta
+Carolinensis_), everywhere seek for insects and nuts.
+
+The inhabitants of these forests would never be in want of an ample
+supply of wood for fuel and for timber, if they had been at all
+careful. The black walnut and cherry tree wood are the best for
+cabinet work; and for fuel, the hickory, which affords more heat than
+beech wood. The price of wood, at Harmony, was one dollar for a cord;
+but the price is already rising, because the forest in the
+neighbourhood of the village is gradually cleared, and the carriage is
+more expensive.
+
+There are several kinds of officinal plants in the vicinity of
+Harmony; ginseng (_Panax_) grows close by the village, and its roots
+are still in request, but not so much as formerly. Another plant of
+the woods of Indiana, which is much esteemed, is the spurious Colombo
+root; likewise the peppermint, which grows in every part of the United
+States. The wax tree (_Myrica cerifera_), of the berries of which the
+green, fragrant tapers are made, does not grow in Indiana, but is
+found on the whole east coast, from New Jersey to Florida. A kind of
+bark, which is now much used, is that of the slippery elm (_Ulmus
+rubra_): if chewed, or softened for a moment in water, it dissolves
+into a viscous slime, and is found very useful in dressing wounds, as
+it is cooling, and allays the inflammation. It is said to have been
+applied with success in cholera, and is now sold, in powder, in all
+the apothecaries' shops. A teaspoonful of this bark, in boiling water,
+makes a very useful beverage, which is sweetened with sugar, and has
+the same effect as linseed. Michaux has given a print of this elm, and
+it would be desirable to cultivate it in our gardens.
+
+The country on the banks of the Wabash is as interesting to the
+zoologist as to the botanist; formerly there were great numbers of the
+bison or buffalo of the Anglo-Americans, the elk,[87] bear, and
+beaver; but they are now entirely extirpated. The Virginian deer is
+still pretty numerous, but is daily becoming more scarce: when Mr.
+Rapp first settled here, seventy of these deer were shot, in a day, in
+one of the Wabash islands. The wolf is still common, and seems to
+differ but little from the European, but is a different species from
+the wolf of the prairies of the Missouri; [pg. 77] it is said that there
+is a black wolf in the prairies of Illinois, which may, perhaps, be a
+distinct species. Of foxes, I saw only the grey, though the red fox is
+said to be found here. In the works that treat of the natural history
+of North America, there are many errors. The racoon is common in the
+forests of Harmony, and is never seen in the daytime; it is hunted in
+the night with dogs, which drive it into a tree. It does not sleep
+through the winter, for I often obtained it in that season. The
+opossum is also common, and lives much in the same manner as the
+racoon. The polecat, the otter, and the mink are common; the pine
+marten is said to be sometimes seen; the ermine is not rare in the
+prairies of Illinois. The marmot, or ground hog, grows to a
+considerable size, and is found in the islands of the Wabash; the
+musk-rat abounds in all the rivers. The rabbit, as it is called
+(_Lepus Americanus_), is nowhere so common as in Europe, yet is found
+in all parts of the country. Of squirrels there are many species.
+
+The most interesting of the birds of this part is the wild turkey,
+which was formerly extremely numerous, and is still pretty common. A
+large cock was sold at Harmony for a quarter of a dollar. A young man
+in the neighbourhood, who supplied the place with this delicate game,
+had often ten or fifteen hanging about his horse at the same time. The
+pheasant or heathcock is found in these forests, but in no great
+numbers. The prairie hen is common in the prairies of Illinois, and
+comes in large flocks to the neighbourhood of Harmony, as soon as the
+cold weather and snow set in. Partridges abound, and so do parrots
+(_Psitt. Carolinensis_) which remain here during the winter. No other
+kind of parrot seems to bear so great a degree of cold as this. We
+often saw them flying about in the forests, feeding on the fruit of
+the plane, when Reaumur's thermometer was at 11 deg. below zero. In the
+mild climate of the Ohio and Wabash they remain all the year through.
+They are amusing birds in a cage, and become very tame.
+
+There are but few species of amphibia in the country about Harmony.
+Soft shell turtles and several kinds of _emys_ are numerous, such as
+the snapping turtle (_E. serpentina_), likewise _E. geographica_,
+_picta_, _pulchella_, &c.
+
+There are several lizards, but no great number of species. The
+rattle-snake is seldom seen, this country not being sufficiently dry
+and stony; the copper-head, on the contrary, is said not to be rare,
+but I cannot speak with certainty. The hognose-snake is very common.
+There are many kinds of adder in the Wabash that are not venomous.
+
+The proteus (_Menobranchus lateralis_, Harl.) of the Ohio, and of the
+great Canadian lakes, is found in the Wabash. The rude inhabitants
+have many superstitious notions and fables respecting several kinds of
+animals, especially serpents. Of the glass-snake (_Ophisaurus
+ventralis_), which easily breaks to pieces, they say, that when the
+pieces are placed together, they immediately unite: they affirm that
+the horn-snake, which has a horn or sting at the end of its tail,
+takes it in its mouth, and then runs along like a hoop; and that if it
+passes a tree it wounds it with its sting, which always makes the tree
+die. Mr. Thomas Say was once informed that a [pg. 78] planter had
+brought one of these snakes, and would prove the truth of this
+assertion. He sent for the man, and found that he had the tail of one
+of these snakes carefully wrapped up. Mr. Say asked him whether he
+must die if he pricked himself with this horn? The man answered
+"undoubtedly." Mr. Say immediately pricked himself with the horn and
+drew blood, but was not affected by it; and the impostor, who affirmed
+that he had witnessed the effects of the sting, excused himself by
+saying that he had been deceived by a neighbour who gave him the
+snake. The inhabitants of the country generally believe that venomous
+serpents sting both with the tongue and with the tail, that they
+fascinate other animals, an old, long since refuted fable, which,
+however, is occasionally revived in American journals, with other
+stories of a similar kind.
+
+There are many kinds of fish in the Wabash, on the whole the same as
+in the Ohio and the Mississippi: the cat-fish is said sometimes to
+weigh above 100 lbs. Several species of sturgeon and pikes are found
+here; the horn-fish, the buffalo (_Catastomus carpioles_), a large
+fish resembling the carp, &c. The remarkable paddle-fish is likewise
+met with, but not frequently, nor in all the rivers. Mr. Lesueur has
+given it the name of _ptalyrostra_, and has sent several specimens of
+it to Paris. This naturalist, during his long residence at Harmony,
+has very carefully studied this branch of zoology. He possesses a
+large collection of drawings and descriptions of this class, and
+specimens, for the most part stuffed. He has presented many of them to
+the National Museum at Paris; and it was his intention soon to visit
+Europe, and publish his observations on this subject, which will form
+an important supplement to the great work of Cuvier and Valenciennes.
+
+The bivalve shells (_Unio_, _Alasmodon_, and _Anodonta_), of which
+there are a great many different species, some of them very large and
+beautiful, are an interesting portion of the natural productions of
+the Ohio, the Wabash, and the tributary streams, especially Fox River.
+Several American naturalists have written on this subject. Mr. Say,
+who was the first, states the number of species of these bivalves at
+forty-four. He would have given descriptions and drawings of all the
+species existing in this country, as well on land as in the rivers, in
+his natural history of the North American testacea, had not death
+called him from this world, too soon for his friends and for science.
+He died on the 10th of October, 1834, soon after I had left him in
+good health on my second visit to Harmony. This part of the country
+has two species of crustacea (_Astacus Bartoni_, Bosc.), and (_Astacus
+affinis_, Say), which are here called craw-fish. These are the only
+large species of crustacea, but there are many smaller ones. Mr. Say,
+by many years' study, made himself fully acquainted with the insects.
+It is remarkable that the bee, which was brought to America by the
+Europeans, is now common in all the forests; the Indians are said to
+call this insect the white-man's fly. Many beautiful butterflies and
+moths adorn the woods of Indiana.
+
+The eminences about Harmony are of secondary formation, with a basis
+of limestone, and upon that, strata of sandstone, clay-slate and
+indurated clay. The land in the neighbourhood of [pg. 79] Harmony is
+extremely fertile. The fields are not manured for many successive
+years, and produce the finest crops; such land, however, in good
+situations, is no longer cheap. The climate is salubrious, and the
+inhabitants attain a great age. The winters are generally mild; the
+changes of temperature are often very great and rapid. The cholera has
+not yet visited this country. We arrived at the season called the
+Indian summer, when, with a temperature of +16 deg. to 17 deg. Reaumur,
+the atmosphere was gloomy and misty. Most persons experience, at this
+season, irregularities in the digestive organs, and head-ache. Poeppig
+gives a very accurate account of the North American autumn, and Mrs.
+Trollope felt the peculiar effect of this warm autumnal weather on
+strangers; it is, however, very remarkable that this state of the
+atmosphere in the Ohio Valley quickly put an end to the cholera, on
+which Dr. Daniel Drake wrote an essay.[88] The weather in the
+wintertime is generally bright and clear; sometimes there are fogs,
+and hoar frost, which encrusts the trees with the most beautiful
+crystals: parhelia and aurora borealis are frequently seen. On the
+14th of December we had a tremendous thunder-storm at daybreak;
+Reaumur's thermometer was at +2 deg.; the rain, thunder, and lightning
+were equally violent; the latter covered the heavens with a sheet of
+fire, and was extremely dazzling; the thunder resembled a discharge of
+artillery. We were told that, in the preceding year, 1831, the weather
+had been exceedingly unhealthy, and the inhabitants even affirmed that
+wounds would not heal.
+
+Like the whole of the interior of North America, the country on the
+Wabash has still numerous traces of a very early extinct original
+population, of which even the present Indians have no traditions, and
+whose remains have been spoken of by many writers. Warden, in his
+account of the United States, and more particularly in the great work,
+entitled "Antiquites Mexicaines," has mentioned such remains in all
+the states, and collected much information on this subject. Here, too,
+in the neighbourhood of Harmony, there are ancient tumuli, which,
+externally, are exactly similar to those which are everywhere found in
+our German forests. Lesueur had examined many of these tumuli, and
+sent part of the articles found in them to France. Some of the most
+considerable tumuli were found on the spot, near the back of the
+village, where Rapp made his churchyard, and which is now planted with
+acacias. The bones of the Swabian peasants are here mingled with
+those of the aboriginal Indians. Lesueur dug through some of those
+tumuli, which are now much levelled, and covered with greensward, and
+found a right-angled oblong parallelogram, level at the bottom, formed
+of large flat stones, set edgewise, and likewise covered over with
+similar stones. Some decayed bones were found in it, of which I
+received a considerable number from Mr. Lesueur, and sent them to Mr.
+Blumenbach, at Goettingen.[89] This mode of interment is not that of
+the present Indians, who themselves affirm that these tumuli were made
+by the whites. Most of the skulls which were found were without the
+bones of the face, and all were very much decayed. The race of men to
+which they belonged were not smaller than those now existing, and,
+consequently, afford no evidence of a dwarfish race, which has been
+fabulously [pg. 80] ascribed to America. Potsherds were found in many of
+the tumuli; they were made of a grey clay, and in general marked with
+stripes, or rings; it would appear that they had been moulded in a
+cloth, or basket, as they were marked with similar impressions, or
+figures. Mr. Lesueur has seen unbroken vessels of this kind, which
+were large, very flat, and had figured handles. Broken shells are
+frequently found intermixed with the dark grey clay of these vessels.
+In one of the tumuli was found, together with the human bones, the
+jawbones of an animal of the stag kind; in others, battle-axes,
+arrow-heads, and tobacco-pipe heads of clay, different in form from
+those now used in Indiana.
+
+One of these pipes was in the shape of a squatting frog, the mouth
+serving for the tobacco; some of them are represented in the
+accompanying woodcuts.[90] Some of the most interesting articles found
+in and near these graves, are the narrow, oblong, square pieces of
+flint, which those nations made use of instead of knives. They are
+from two to two inches and a half long, and scarcely half an inch
+broad; very thin and very sharp on all the four sides. Several of
+these knives were discovered near New Harmony, and Mr. Lesueur found
+one during my stay there. There is a very remarkable coincidence of
+these knives with the perfectly similar instruments of obsidian or
+volcanic glass, which are found, even now, in Mexico, some of which
+Mr. T. Say brought with him, from his journey to that country, and
+wrote a paper respecting them.[91] In the [pg. 81] forty-eighth plate, I
+have represented the two kinds of stone knives together, as they seem
+to testify the affinity of the aborigines of the interior of North
+America with those of Mexico, which is supported by other reasons.
+
+  [Illustration: Indian pipes]
+
+About fifteen miles from Harmony, lower down the Wabash, is a part of
+the bank known by the name of the Bone Bank, where the river has
+partly cut through a hill, or laid it bare, in which there are numbers
+of human bones seen imbedded in the bank. Mr. Lesueur sent a perfect
+skull from this spot to Blumenbach. An old tree having fallen down on
+this place, he saw under the roots an entire human skeleton; this,
+therefore, was undoubtedly a burying-place. While the observer deeply
+regrets that he is wholly without information respecting these
+remarkable remains of antiquity, he feels that the present white
+population of North America may justly be reproached for neglecting or
+destroying them. Nobody in Harmony was able to give any account of the
+names of the Indian tribes who inhabited the country at the time when
+this village was founded. One of the first settlers of the country
+about Mount Vernon, who had grown up in Kentucky among the Indians,
+but had removed, in 1806, to the forests on the Lower Wabash--where at
+that time there were no white settlers--had been well acquainted with
+the Indians about Harmony, and frequently visited them in their huts.
+He was the only man who was able to give me any information about
+them. He called them Muskoghe Indians; this name, however, seems to be
+incorrect. They lived in this part of the country till 1810; but in
+the year preceding the battle of Tippekanoe they all removed, and did
+not return. They were not numerous, and lived chiefly about the mouth
+of the Wabash, and on the Big Creek.[92] They were a good-looking,
+robust race; wore a kind of apron, and had bows and arrows, in the
+use of which they were very expert. They had among them thirty or
+forty indifferent guns; they smoked Sumach leaves in wooden pipes,[93]
+the tube of which was made of cane. Their huts, at the mouth of the
+Wabash, were composed of large bundles of reeds, lined inside with
+deer-skins. Many of these Indians fastened their pipes to the
+tomahawk. Their heads were shorn, with the exception of a tuft at the
+back, like the Indians of the Mississippi and Lower Missouri. They
+coloured their faces with red paint. To the whites they were friendly,
+visited the first settlers in their dwellings, and reposed around
+their hearths, especially in bad weather. At that time there were elks
+and beavers, yet in no great numbers; but bears and wolves in
+abundance. My informant had killed many bears, and great numbers of
+wild turkeys.
+
+[pg. 82] The early history of Indiana mentions, as the inhabitants of
+this State, when the French first settled here, the Kickapoos,
+Musquitons, Potanons, and some other nations, remnants of which are
+still to be found at the sources of the Wabash, as well as the
+Piankishaws, Miamis, and Viandots. In the year 1804, a treaty was
+concluded with them at Vincennes for the purchase of the lands between
+the Wabash and the Ohio, after which they emigrated.[94] Some
+well-informed inhabitants of Harmony, who, at the time of the Indiana
+emigration, when the United States had repeatedly bought land of those
+people, saw the several dislodged tribes pass through this country,
+assured me that the character of their physiognomy was often
+essentially different; and I myself found this confirmed both in North
+and South America; though the fundamental features of the American
+race are everywhere the same. All these Indians are now totally
+extirpated or expelled from Indiana, and the country enjoys the
+advantage of being peopled by the backwoodsmen.
+
+The fertile and salubrious country of Harmony has attracted a great
+number of settlers, who have begun to thin the great forests of
+Indiana. These settlers are usually called backwoodsmen, because they
+live in the remote forests. They are a robust, rough race of men, of
+English or Irish origin. They dwell very isolated, scattered in the
+forests, and but seldom come to the towns, only when business calls
+them. There is a school at Harmony where the children learn to read
+and write; two dollars are paid quarterly, and the children receive
+instruction in the morning and afternoon; but in the country the young
+people grow up without any education, and are, probably, no better
+than the Indians themselves. In the Western States, the sixteenth
+section of the Congress land (_i. e._, land belonging to the
+Government) is always assigned for the benefit of the schools, but is
+not always employed according to the first intention. At this time
+there was in the state of Indiana only one college; it was at Blooming
+Town.[95] There was no clergyman at Harmony, and, with the exception
+of the meetings of some religious sects, the inhabitants were
+destitute of both religious and school instruction. Business, or
+festive occasions, bring the backwoodsmen into the town, where they
+indulge their love of whisky, which generally retards their return
+homeward. They have a good race of horses, and are bold horsemen; even
+the women are frequently seen on the saddle, and whole families travel
+in this way--man, woman, and child ofttimes mounted on the same beast.
+There is nothing characteristic in their costume, like the original
+dresses which are met with in the country in Germany; but they wear a
+medley, and bad imitation of all the fashions of English towns; caps,
+felt and straw hats, frocks, great-coats, plaids, &c. The women, too,
+endeavour to imitate the fashions of the towns, wear large hats with
+loose veils, and gaudy plaid mantles, which, altogether, have often a
+most ludicrous effect in these remote forests. The winter dress of the
+men is often not ill chosen, though perfectly novel to a stranger. At
+that season they wear great-coats made of the common woollen
+horsecloths, white or green, with gay stripes on the collar, cuffs,
+and pockets; [pg. 83] nay, some are striped all over like zebras: such a
+coat, of the commonest kind, cannot be had here for less than eight or
+ten dollars. Noisy parties of these people frequently assemble at the
+public-houses of Harmony, gather round the fire, and let the whisky
+circulate briskly, while their horses are frequently left the whole
+day, standing in the street, amid rain and snow. On Sunday, which is
+kept by many of the inhabitants, though there is no divine service,
+they are more decently clad, wash their faces, and make some attempt
+at putting their hair in order, which hangs dishevelled about their
+faces. The young men often went to the chase, others played in the
+streets, generally at ball, but a great number remained at their work,
+and the peasants and farmers, with their huge wagons, followed their
+usual occupations. On certain days, especially when a magistrate, a
+president, or a governor was to be chosen, all were gathered together,
+for they all take great interest in the government of the country, and
+would not, on any account, renounce the privilege which, in their
+estimation, makes them important statesmen. On such election days,
+whole troops of them ride into the town; the streets are crowded with
+their horses, which are tied up, and the whisky-shops resound with
+their tumultuous discussions. Every man gives his vote; disputes
+arise; and, as in the Polish diets, their excited passions frequently
+lead to blows. They are all great politicians, and some of them are
+well acquainted with the newspapers. In the winter, as soon as snow
+fell, sledge parties commenced at Harmony. Six or eight persons were
+on separate seats, two and two together, upon one sledge; others
+amused themselves with skating, for which, however, they had not much
+opportunity in the winter of 1832-3. There were frequent balls at the
+inns; on New Year's Eve they literally danced the whole night through.
+
+Agriculture is still in its infancy about New Harmony, and the people
+depend on the extraordinary fertility of the soil. In the immediate
+vicinity of the town land is not cheap, having already risen to
+fifteen dollars per acre; whereas, at the distance of two miles, there
+was still a considerable quantity of Congress land, which might be had
+at one dollar per acre. There was a tax of fifty cents, or half a
+dollar,[96] on every quarter of a square mile of land. What is called
+Congress land, is frequently taken possession of, for a time, by new
+comers, who have no right to it. They fell the wood, erect their huts,
+and nobody hinders them in their proceedings till the lawful owner
+ejects them, who has purchased the land of the Government. A square
+mile of [pg. 84] Congress land was still to be had for 100 dollars; but
+these lands are subject to the periodical inundations of the Wabash,
+when the farmers are obliged to fly with all their effects to more
+elevated stations. They have then to look for their cattle in the
+great forests, and drive them away; but they cannot always find all
+the animals, many of which perish. The fertility of the soil is
+increased by these inundations. Congress land which was not exposed to
+inundation, could be bought for one dollar twenty-five cents per acre.
+This high water is said often to present an interesting scene. Hogs
+and other animals, even the opossum, have been found on low trees,
+where they had sought protection.
+
+The chief vegetable production of this part of the country is maize,
+which grows to the height of twelve or thirteen feet; the ears are
+very large and heavy; I found some weighing fourteen to fifteen
+ounces, and nearly three inches in diameter, in which I counted above
+1,000 grains. They ripen in September, October, November, and
+December, and are often left standing through the winter, till wanted
+for use. There are fifteen varieties of this important plant; one
+kind, called sweet corn, is particularly good when roasted in an
+unripe state. It is calculated that the best soil will yield 100
+bushels of corn per acre. Very good cakes and bread are prepared of
+maize flour, and there are many other ways of dressing it. When
+boiled with milk it is called mush. All living creatures in this
+country subsist, almost exclusively, on this invaluable production.
+When the whites arrived in America numerous Indian tribes subsisted on
+it; quadrupeds, birds, nay, even fish, are fond of it. At the places
+where the flat boats, laden with maize, land, the fish collect and
+assemble in great numbers, and fall an easy prey to the fishermen. At
+this time the corn was sold at six and a half cents per bushel at
+Harmony; whereas, on the frontiers of Canada, two dollars were paid
+for it. Living is, consequently, very cheap on the banks of the
+Wabash. The maize is brought to market in large wagons, drawn by four
+oxen, and a considerable quantity is thence sent by water carriage.
+Other kinds of grain--wheat, rye, barley, and oats--which ripen in
+June, are likewise cultivated. Barley is grown for the brewers; and
+oats, in considerable quantities, for the horses. Potatoes, too, are
+extensively cultivated, but they are by no means so good and mealy as
+in Germany. There is a great variety of culinary vegetables. There are
+abundance of apples, but not many pears, which do not thrive; peaches
+are good, and very productive; quantities fall to the ground, where
+they are consumed by the hogs; plums and cherries are rarely grown;
+the latter are not so good as in Europe, but very fruitful. The vine
+was formerly cultivated, but it is now quite neglected. According to
+Warden, cotton is grown at Vincennes, Princetown, and Harmony, but
+this does not seem to be the case at present. This plant does not
+thrive beyond the 31st degree of latitude. The inhabitants grow hemp
+and flax for their own consumption, and some tobacco; bad cigars are
+made at Harmony, and, in general, good tobacco is rarely to be met
+with in the United States. Maple sugar is manufactured in great
+abundance in Indiana. Warden says that, in 1810, 50,000 lbs. [pg. 85]
+were made in this State, and, at present, it was worth seven or eight
+cents a pound. Many of the inhabitants obtain, in the spring, about
+100 lbs. of this sugar. In this part of the country the corn is not
+thrashed, but generally trodden out by horses; a very imperfect
+process, which appears to have originated in the times of the ancient
+Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans.
+
+Next to agriculture the breeding of cattle is an important object
+among the backwoodsmen; but is likewise ill understood. The breed of
+swine furnishes the principal supply for food and exportation, great
+quantities of pork being sent to New Orleans. Mr. Owen had established
+a whisky distillery, and fattened the swine on the refuse. About 1,500
+barrels of whisky, worth ten dollars a barrel, were made every year in
+Mr. Owen's distillery. Great numbers of swine are in the woods of
+Indiana, far from all human dwellings, where they grow very fat by the
+abundance of oak and beech mast. They are of a reddish brown colour,
+with round black spots; there are some quite wild, which anybody is at
+liberty to shoot. These animals are never housed, even in the vicinity
+of Harmony. We observed them, in our excursions, in the depth of
+winter, when the young ones often perish with cold; and we also saw
+them eaten by the mothers. Dead swine were lying about in all
+directions, partly devoured by others. The negligence and want of
+feeling with which the animals are treated, are very great; and,
+accordingly, the breed of cattle can never flourish. The cattle, which
+are very fine, are kept in the open air day and night, amidst ice and
+snow, with which their backs are covered; the same may be said of the
+horses; nay, in cold moonlight nights, we saw these animals standing
+in the street, near their master's dwelling, as if they hoped to be
+let in. The animals are generally fed in the morning with maize, and a
+woman usually appears at an early hour, in her plaid, to milk the
+cows.
+
+The cattle of this country are large and handsome, very hardy, and do
+not differ in figure or colour from those of Germany; no food is given
+them in winter but the dry leaves of maize. No clover or other forage
+is cultivated, so that the cattle and horses are confined to straw,
+the bark of trees, and the green reed, miegia, which forms a thick
+underwood in the forests on the Wabash. Everywhere one sees the bark
+and twigs gnawed, and even the fruit trees are often damaged in this
+manner. Horses and cattle frequently starve to death in the winter. I
+was told that the animals gnaw, in preference, the nettle-tree
+(_Celtis occidentalis_), the hack-berry (_Celtis crassifolia_), and
+the sugar maple. It is remarkable that the swine, which otherwise
+refuse no species of fruit, will not touch that of the papaw tree
+(_Asimina_). All the beef in this country is of a bad quality,
+because, as I have said, no forage is cultivated. In Pennsylvania it
+is quite the reverse; there a great deal of clover is grown, and the
+beef is, consequently, good. In Indiana pork is said to be much better
+and easier of digestion than to the east of the Alleghanys. We saw but
+few sheep, and no goats, at Harmony. There were plenty of geese and
+domestic fowls, but only a few tame ducks.
+
+The mode of tilling the ground for the different kinds of grain, has
+been described by [pg. 86] many travellers; I will therefore merely
+observe that the plough is different in its construction from that
+used in Germany, and that the oxen are attached to it by a very
+peculiar yoke, which consists of a long, thick, crooked piece of wood,
+which is laid horizontally over the necks of the two oxen, with two
+bows underneath, through which the heads of the animals are put.[97]
+
+  [Illustration: Neck-yoke and plow]
+
+My stay at New Harmony, which was at first intended to be only for a
+few days, was prolonged by serious indisposition, nearly resembling
+cholera, to a four months' winter residence. At any other place in
+this country I should have extremely regretted such a loss of time,
+but here I derived much instruction and entertainment from my
+intercourse with two highly-informed men, Mr. Thomas Say and Mr.
+Lesueur, who, during my two months' illness, gave me constant proofs
+of kindness, and endeavoured to make our time pass agreeably and
+usefully. I received also much kindness from other estimable families,
+Messrs. Owen (who were educated by Fellenberg, in Switzerland), Mr.
+Maclure and his sister, and Mr. Twigg. My walks and hunting excursions
+with the two naturalists were very instructive. Mr. Say's house was in
+a garden, where he cultivated many interesting plants of the interior
+of Western America. I there saw a large _Maclura aurantiaca_
+(Nuttall), the bow or yellow wood, or Osage orange, from the river
+Arkansas, of the wood of which many Indian tribes make their bows. It
+is a prickly tree, with very tough wood. There was one at St. Louis,
+in the garden of Mr. Pierre Chouteau, which did not, however,
+flourish.[98] Dr. Pitcher had the kindness to give me some of the
+seeds of this tree, [pg. 87] which, however, have not succeeded. In Mr.
+Say's garden I likewise saw _Euphorbia marginata_, from Arkansas,
+several beautiful _phlox_; and the _Lonicera sempervirens_ was laden
+with its ripe fruit. The _Euphorbia marginata_ flourishes exceedingly
+well at Bonn, where it was raised from seeds which I brought.
+
+Mr. Say's zoological collection was confined to insects and shells. He
+was less anxious to possess a complete collection than to have a good
+library, which, thanks to Mr. Maclure, he really possessed, and new
+insects and shells were sent to him from all parts of the United
+States, which he immediately described. He had a very extensive
+correspondence, even with Europe, and received many conchylia, which
+he used and compared for his work on American conchology. This work
+was entirely got up here in Harmony, for Mrs. Say drew and coloured
+the figures very faithfully after nature, which were engraved by an
+artist, engaged by Mr. Maclure; the text also was printed there. Mr.
+Say's entomological collection was continually damaged by the
+rapacious insects, which are much more dangerous and destructive here
+than in Europe. The most fatal to the zoological collections, in this
+country, besides the common European moth (_Phalaena sarcitella_), are
+the _Dermestes lardarius_, _Anthrinus muscorum_, _Dermestes vulpinus_,
+_Necrobia violetia_, _Acarus destructor_, and several others, among
+which there are some brought from Europe.
+
+Mr. Lesueur's labours were chiefly in the higher orders of the animal
+kingdom; he had explored the country in many directions, was
+acquainted with everything remarkable, collected and prepared all
+interesting objects, and had already sent considerable collections to
+France. He was a skilful draughtsman, and his portfolios of drawings,
+made during his voyage round the world, and in his residence in
+America, afforded us much gratification during the winter. He had paid
+great attention to the fishes of the Wabash, Ohio, and Mississippi,
+for which his frequent visits to New Orleans had given him the best
+opportunity. His friend Barrabino, who died prematurely in that city,
+and took much interest in the sciences, had been of great assistance
+to him. It would be a pity if the interesting labours of Mr. Lesueur,
+in natural history, were not communicated to the learned world during
+his lifetime.
+
+I shall always retain a most pleasing recollection of the excursions
+which we made in the neighbourhood of Harmony, with Mr. Say, and to
+greater distances, with Mr. Lesueur. One of the most agreeable was
+when we sailed down the Wabash, and landed on its wooded islands.
+Immediately on the west of the river, is Fox Island, a large thickly
+wooded tract, between the Wabash and Fox River.[99] We generally left
+Harmony by water, in bright, sunny weather. The Wabash divides into
+several arms, forming beautiful romantic islands, covered with tall
+forests, partly surrounded by quantities of drift wood. The water of
+the river is clear and dark green, and the bottom, which is plainly
+seen, is covered with large bivalve shells (_Unio_), as well as with
+several kinds of snails. High trees uniformly clothe the shore, and
+colossal, wide-spreading planes rise above the dense forests. In some
+places there are sand-banks, where shells are [pg. 88] found in
+abundance, and where the track of the racoon and the mink, which come
+here in the night to seek their food, are imprinted in all directions
+on the wet ground. Under the old roots of trees on the bank, which is
+from ten to twenty feet high, we saw the burrows of the minks, into
+which it had taken a quantity of shells. The common people here think
+that this is done by the musk-rat, which is certainly a mistake. The
+musk-rat lives on vegetables, and it is only the small beasts of prey
+that live on shell-fish. There were various species of ducks, which
+rose in flocks before us, and flew rapidly to the undisturbed parts of
+the banks. Besides the common wild duck, which was the most numerous,
+there were the beautiful wood duck, the blue-winged teal, and the
+pintail duck, or sea-pheasant. After proceeding about three quarters
+of an hour, we usually landed on Fox Island, on the right bank,
+fastened our boat to the trunk of a large fallen tree, and then went
+up the steep bank into a thick, lofty forest, where the high reeds
+were intersected with small, narrow paths, made by the horses and
+cattle of the neighbouring farmers. From our several landing places,
+we had to proceed only about 100 steps across the island to the Fox
+River, which runs here, for a pretty considerable distance, parallel
+to the Wabash, and joins it below Fox Island.[100] The stream is
+highly picturesque, with romantic banks, large uprooted trees,
+colossal planes, magnificent oaks, hickory, shellbark hickory, &c.
+Here grows the lofty _gymnocladus_, with its large, broad pods, and
+the beautiful catalpa. _Bignonia radicans_ and _cruciata_ wind round
+the trunks, as well as thick, clustering vines (_Hedera quinquefolia_)
+and the poison vine. Vast quantities of fallen trees lay in the water,
+and, when it was low, often formed a kind of bridge. The trunks of the
+plane are very remarkable; they are often so thick that five or six
+men cannot span them. When of this size they are generally hollow.
+These trees are suffered to grow so old, because they yield but
+indifferent timber. Twenty or thirty feet from the ground, the trunk
+usually divides into several thick branches, which rise to a very
+great height; they have a bark of dazzling whiteness, which forms a
+singular contrast with the brown forests, when leafless and bare in
+winter. This tree never attains such a thickness and height in Europe,
+and hence the white colour of the branches is wanting. The quiet,
+lonely Fox River is covered, during the whole day, with numerous
+ducks. Whenever we approached cautiously through the reeds, and over
+the dry leaves, scattered on the ground, we could immediately fire at
+them. The kingfisher (_Alcedo alcyon_), is constantly seen here, and
+many species of birds, particularly the blue-crested roller (_Garrulus
+cristatus_), came to the water to drink. Unluckily we had no European
+hounds, which would have been of great service to us, and thus, from
+want of them, we often lost the ducks we had shot. The turkey buzzards
+were seen hovering in the air, and, after wet weather, were often
+observed sitting in the sunshine, with outspread wings, on the highest
+trees. If we shot a bird, and did not immediately pick it up, it was
+sure to be devoured by these ravenous creatures. If the buzzards were
+driven away, the cunning crows supplied their place. The whole air was
+soon filled with these buzzards, hovering round and round, [pg. 89]
+while numbers of others sat together on the high trees. If we shot at
+them when flying, they immediately vomited; this I likewise observed
+in Brazil. We found here some heads of the paddle-fish, which lives in
+the stream. If we left the banks of the rivers, and advanced far into
+the forests, we had often to clamber over fallen trunks of trees,
+covered with moss, and to penetrate through matted reeds, where we
+heard the voice of the grey squirrel, and the hammering of the
+numerous woodpeckers. Among the entangled climbing plants, we often
+saw, throughout the whole winter, the beautiful cardinal, or red-bird;
+finches of various kinds; and on the decayed trees, on the ground,
+some kinds of _Troglodytes_. Towards the end of autumn, and early in
+warm days in February, nay, even in December and January, we often saw
+in Fox River, on stones, and old submersed trunks of trees, large
+tortoises basking in the sun, which we sometimes shot at with our
+fowling-pieces, but we seldom got them. They are very shy, and plunge
+into the water as soon as any one approaches.
+
+Towards noon the scattered sportsmen usually re-assembled, with their
+booty, round a cheerful fire, under ancient plane trees, on the bank
+of Fox River. Our frugal repast, which we had brought with us, was
+seasoned by the exercise in the open air, in the fine forests of
+Indiana and Illinois. Tortoises, shell-fish, birds, &c., were
+deposited in our boat. Mr. Lesueur frequently accompanied us in these
+excursions. Once, on the 7th of March, he found, on Fox Island, a
+couple of marmots above ground, one of which ran into its burrow,
+while the other sought refuge on a low tree, where, however, it was
+shot. We then dug for the other, in hopes of finding it, but the
+burrow went so far and deep into the ground, that we were forced to
+give it up. This circumstance may serve as a proof that the animals
+which sleep throughout the winter make their appearance about this
+time.
+
+In our excursions we often visited some others of the numerous islands
+in the Wabash, being particularly attracted thither by the loud cries
+of the wild turkey; their voice is exactly similar to that of the
+European turkey. We could hear them scratching among the dry leaves on
+the ground, in search of food. If we surprised them, they were
+generally too far off for our fowling-pieces, loaded with small shot,
+for they ran away with extraordinary rapidity. Turkey Island seemed to
+be a favourite place of resort. At the upper end of the island drifted
+wood was frequently piled up to such a height, that it was difficult
+to clamber over it, and among this wood there were generally many
+otters. Here we often found wild turkeys, and even the Virginian deer;
+and it is really a fine sight to see a flock of these wild turkeys fly
+across the river, or a swarm of wild geese, with loud screams, swim
+down the stream. The grey eagle was often seen sitting on the lofty
+plane trees, on the bank; and the white-headed eagle hovered in the
+air, at a great height.
+
+On another hunting excursion, up the Wabash, we proceeded as far as
+Black River,[101] a stream which falls into the Wabash, three miles
+from Harmony. On the 5th of January, at eight [pg. 90] o'clock in the
+morning, the mercury in Reaumur's thermometer was twelve and a half
+degrees above freezing point, and the fish leaped above the surface
+of the water as in summer. Near some small log-houses the people were
+employed in felling the high trees, and our boatmen observed that
+those new settlers had taken possession of this Congress land without
+any right to do so. Such irregularities are very frequent here; thus,
+for instance, they cut down large trees on Mr. Maclure's property for
+making their flat boats, and yet nobody calls them to account. These
+are the backwoodsmen of Illinois and Indiana. On the high banks of the
+river we observed in the forest a mink-trap. It nearly resembles, in
+miniature, the great bear-trap; is covered on all sides with
+brushwood, so that the animal can enter only at a certain place. The
+Black River, which, in some parts, is wide and expanded, was now
+rather narrow and shallow, the water of a pure green colour. The
+bottom consists chiefly of sand or clay; it is contracted at the
+mouth, where a quantity of sand has accumulated, and where poplars and
+lofty planes grow; colossal vines wound round their trunks, of which
+we cut off one that was very thick, as a specimen. While our boatmen
+were engaged in this work, and in looking for shell-fish, we advanced
+several miles up the stream, where we met with frequent obstacles in
+the forest. The large dry leaves of the planes made such a rustling,
+that we could seldom get near the ducks, numbers of which were
+swimming on the stream. I collected on the bank the beautiful
+orange-coloured seeds of the _Celastrus scandens_, and several others.
+We generally returned home with ducks and other birds, but we were
+unsuccessful in our chase of the wild turkeys, of which we sometimes
+saw whole flocks fly across the Wabash. Many an hour we passed in
+these forests, watching for ducks and birds of prey; where, while we
+stood concealed in a hollow plane, the small birds sometimes flew
+almost into the face of the sportsman, or settled on his gun.
+
+In order to explore the forests of Harmony, in the southern direction,
+Mr. Say took me to a neighbouring estate of Mr. Maclure, on Rush
+Creek, through a romantic, lofty forest, where very fine tulip trees,
+with thick and high trunks, as straight as a ship's mast, and very
+rough bark, were growing. This tall, splendid tree bears its fine
+large flowers only at the very summit. The wood is of a greenish pale
+yellow colour, and is used by cabinet makers. The red-headed
+woodpecker was almost the only bird that was seen here. The whole
+track consists of steep hills, separated by small valleys, on which we
+particularly observed the ancient tumuli of the aboriginal inhabitants
+of these forests. Passing through a valley we came to Rush Creek,
+which we crossed by a very ruinous bridge of branches of trees, to the
+opposite bank, where _Hydrangea arborescens_ grew. Several species of
+maple grow here, which have certainly not been properly distinguished
+and classed. Their trunks, covered with rough bark, are often not to
+be spanned by three men, and they grow perfectly straight. Near the
+junction of the Rush Creek and the Wabash, we came to the small
+log-house of a tenant of Mr. Maclure, where the woman was engaged in
+domestic employments, while the children were picking bones, probably
+[pg. 91] of wild turkeys, with which they ate maize bread. In front of
+the house lay large blocks of catalpa wood, which, when fresh cut, is
+of a brownish yellow colour, and emits a peculiar smell. We were told
+of a stream in the neighbourhood, the water of which was said to have
+killed many persons. We visited this dangerous water, which is very
+cold, but does not appear to have any peculiar ingredients. One of our
+party, who had often drunk of it, without injury, affirmed that those
+men had not been killed by the water, but by whisky; probably,
+however, death was caused by drinking this excessively cold water when
+they were overheated.
+
+In a dense forest, some miles to the north-west of Harmony, was a
+narrow pond, or, rather, long, broad ditch, called Long Pond, which,
+at certain seasons of the year, is connected with Fox River, to which
+we sometimes made excursions. Beyond the Wabash, in this direction,
+the forest has a sandy soil, which, however, is soon succeeded by a
+rich clay. A man well acquainted with the country was our conductor;
+we were obliged to force our way through the closely-matted reeds,
+where there was no path, and our clothes were completely torn by them.
+On all sides we heard the bells of the oxen and horses, and our guide
+easily found his own beasts, which knew his voice. He had wished me to
+take a compass, which was not done, and we, in fact, twice lost our
+way, in consequence; for it is not easy to discover one's latitude in
+such thick, bewildering reed forests. Woodpeckers and squirrels were
+the usual fruits of our excursions in this wilderness. After passing a
+couple of isolated habitations, we came to a hollow in the forest,
+about a mile long, and full of water. This was the Long Pond, in which
+many varieties of water plants were growing.
+
+Our guide had taken a hatchet and a basket, in order to dig up the
+roots of a yellow-flowering _Nymphaea_,[102] which was growing in
+luxuriance, and which he intended to employ as a poultice to a swelled
+face. The surface of the water was covered with an elegant plant,
+_Azolla Caroliniana_ (Wild), which formed mossy verdant spots, and is
+here found on all standing water. The cardinal and the blue-crested
+roller frequented this place; and near a field of maize, in the
+forest, I saw large flocks of parrots, of which we often shot many
+with great ease. They were not shy, and soon re-assembled after our
+shot had dispersed them. Their manner and note much resembled those
+of the long-tailed paroquet of Brazil.[103] With a shrill cry they
+flew rapidly from tree to tree, when their beautiful bright green
+colour was seen to great advantage. Mr. Bodmer has given a very
+faithful representation of one of these flocks.[104] They eat the
+fruit of the planes; and if we did not disturb them, they sat in a
+row, close together, to warm themselves in the faint beams of the
+January sun. We sometimes found a great number of turkey buzzards
+collected about the carcass of a dead animal; some sitting crowded on
+the high trees, others hovering in the air; but it was not easy to get
+at them. We occasionally met with horses, which, in these [pg. 92]
+wildernesses, familiarly approach those who happen to pass, in the
+hope of receiving salt from them. On our return home we were often
+gratified with the view of a splendid fiery evening sky on the Wabash;
+the lofty crowns of the forest trees appeared to burn, while the
+snow-white stems of the tall planes assumed a roseate tint, and
+reflected their beauty in the smooth surface of the water.
+
+The winter which we passed at Harmony was, on the whole, mild.
+Woodpeckers, pigeons, thrushes, the great lark, the cardinal, the
+blue-bird, and many others, were seen in the orchards during the whole
+winter. The coveys of partridges lay in the fields of maize, or the
+thorn hedges, sheltered and protected from the cold. There were often
+very warm days in the middle of winter. On such a day, the 31st of
+January, I found, at noon, the thermometer being +5 deg. R., at the
+foot of a thick plane tree, a great number of the red and black spotted
+lady-bird, which were half frozen. Tortoises were seen, on warm days,
+during the whole winter. In the middle of February, a great number of
+the white maple, called also the soft or swamp maple, were in blossom
+in the forests; and, towards the end of that month, the song of many
+birds resounded through the woods and orchards. Flights of cranes
+passed over. The _Arabis bulbosa_ (Muehlenb.) blossomed, as well as the
+hazel, yet there were still some cold days. The Americans have a
+proverb--"When winter comes in like a lion, it goes out like a lamb,"
+and _vice versa_. This winter, however, the cold had not set in early.
+At the beginning of March we had frost. On the 2nd of March, at eight
+in the morning, Reaumur's thermometer was at -16 deg.; and at twelve
+o'clock at noon, -9 deg. Small pieces of water were frozen over; the
+ducks, especially the pintail ducks, which were now constantly
+disturbed in the Wabash, by the navigation and by the sportsman,
+sought for small pieces of open water; and when they were driven from
+these, repaired to the woods or the maize fields. The blackbird and
+the robin sought their scanty food on the banks of the brooks. Many
+species of animals were, however, in motion at the beginning of March.
+Numbers of tortoises appeared; the note of the owl was heard in the
+forests, even in the daytime; the wood-snipe fluttered about, and the
+young leaves of the _sambucus_, and the flowers of the _corylus_, gave
+an enlivening appearance to the forest. The voice of the turtle-dove
+was heard as early as the 8th of February; insects buzzed about;
+flocks of migratory pigeons flew towards the north and east; and on
+the 9th, the first steam-boat went up the Wabash.
+
+We had satisfactory accounts of the sanitary state of the southern and
+western parts of the United States. At Cincinnati the violence of the
+cholera had abated at the commencement of the Indian summer; on the
+Ohio it had generally ceased; and St. Louis, by the latest reports,
+was perfectly healthy. Mr. Bodmer, who had made an excursion to New
+Orleans, in December and January, found the cholera still there, but
+it had greatly abated; and I therefore resolved to make preparations
+for proceeding on our journey, as soon as our collections were packed
+up and sent off.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[83] Robert Owen (1771-1858) was a prominent English socialist and
+propagandist. Rising from the ranks of workingmen, by shrewd business
+capacity he acquired a fortune, which he devoted to the improvement of
+the conditions of working people, and to the spread of principles of
+co-operation and education. His factory and schools at New Lanark,
+Scotland, became famous, and were visited by eminent reformers. He was
+also instrumental in securing the first Factory Act, protecting the
+rights of children. In 1825 he purchased New Harmony, Indiana, for the
+purpose of establishing a co-operative community. Owen's connection
+with this experiment was dissolved about 1828, although his sons
+remained on the property many years. The latter years of his life were
+entirely devoted to theoretical discussion, erratic journalism, and
+socialistic experimentation. He is considered the founder of the
+co-operative movement in England.
+
+William Maclure (1763-1840), a wealthy merchant, geologist, and
+philanthropist, made an unsuccessful attempt (1819) to found an
+agricultural school at Alicaut, Spain, for the benefit of the poorer
+classes. In 1824 he went with Robert Owen to New Harmony and took
+charge of the educational department. The following year, however,
+together with a hundred and fifty followers, he withdrew to found
+Macluria. Later, they purchased the New Harmony establishment, and for
+a short time conducted a school of industry destined to early failure.
+In 1827, because of failing health, he went to Mexico, where he died
+(1840).--ED.
+
+[84] Jean Baptiste Audebert (1759-1800), an eminent French painter,
+engraver, and naturalist, published _A Natural History of Apes,
+Lemurs, and Galeopitheci_, with numerous plates (1800), and _A History
+of Humming Birds, Fly Catchers, Jacamars and Promerap_ (1 vol., 1802).
+Audebert at his death left unfinished several works on birds,
+subsequently edited by Vieillot and Destray.--ED.
+
+[85] See Plate 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[86] See Plate 25, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[87] _Cervus major_, or _Canadensis_. I have retained the American
+name of elk for this animal, but it must not be confounded with the
+elendthier (_Cervus alces_), which is sometimes called elk, in
+Prussia. The name wapiti, given to it by the English, which is derived
+from one of the Indian languages, ought never to be used, because it
+is scarcely known to anybody, even in America.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[88] Edward Poeppig (1798-1868) was educated as a naturalist at
+Leipzig. He travelled in Cuba and the United States (1822-24), and
+subsequently went to South America, returning to Germany in 1832. In
+1845 he was elected professor of zoology at the University of Leipzig
+and died in 1868. He wrote _Reise in Chila, Peru und auf dem
+Amazonenstromer_ (Leipzig, 1835-36), and _Landschaftliche Ansichten
+und erlaeuterude Darstellungen aus dem Gebiete der Erdbunde_ (Leipzig,
+1838).
+
+For Mrs. Trollope, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 44,
+note 24; for Doctor Drake, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p.
+121, note 61.--ED.
+
+[89] For a brief sketch of Lesueur, see our volume xvi, p. 138, note
+60.
+
+Johann Friedrich Blumenbach (1752-1840) was a distinguished professor
+in the University of Goettingen. As a recognition of his ability, he
+was in 1812 elected secretary of the Royal Society of Sciences.--ED.
+
+[90] Mr. Lesueur sketched these from memory, having parted with the
+originals.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See opposite page for illustration of Indian pipes.
+
+[91] See the "Disseminator" for 1831. Say writes--"Some arrow-heads
+and knives made of flint were found in the same tumulus, which are
+perfectly like those often found on the surface. These arrow-heads are
+generally known, but the instrument which probably served as a knife,
+deserves more particular consideration. It is from an inch and a half
+to two inches and a quarter long, from three-tenths to seven-tenths
+broad, and has two edges; in shape it resembles the obsidian knives of
+the ancient Aztecks, or, perhaps, of the Tultecks, of which we found a
+great many near the Mexican city of Chalco, and of which there are
+engravings in one of the last numbers of 'Silliman's Journal.' We have
+compared several specimens of flint and obsidian knives, and found
+them as perfectly alike as if they had been made by the same artist,
+and as the difference of the material allows. If we cannot decide how
+far this fact may serve to confirm the hieroglyphic accounts of the
+emigration of the Aztecks and Tultecks from north to south, it seems,
+however, to strengthen the conjecture that the remote ancestors of the
+present Mexicans erected the tumuli and walls which are spread in such
+numbers over this country, and of the origin of which the present race
+of red men have no tradition." These obsidian knives are likewise
+represented in one of the early volumes of the French Academy, but
+Warden does not mention them in his "Antiquites Mexicaines." He puts
+the question, whether the people of the Ohio Valley may not have been
+a colony of the ancient inhabitants of Palenque? The old tumuli of
+Harmony appear, at least, to belong to a kindred race. On this obscure
+but highly interesting subject, see Alex. V. Humboldt, "Voy. au Nouv.
+Cont." t. iii. p. 155, &c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[92] This must have been a wandering band either of Sauk and Foxes
+(the latter of whom often were entitled "Musquake") or of Mascoutin.
+The Indian title to this region had been extinguished in 1804; see
+note 92, _post_. Possibly they were Potawatomi, several of whose
+chiefs bore names resembling these.
+
+An account of the battle of Tippecanoe is given in Evans's _Tour_, in
+our volume viii, p. 286, note 131.--ED.
+
+[93] Some of the southern tribes of the North American Indians still
+use such wooden pipes. I have seen such belonging to the Cherokees,
+which were in the shape of a bear. The opening for the tobacco was on
+the back, and the tube fixed near the tail.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[94] For the Kickapoo and Mascoutin (Masquiton) Indians, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 139, note 111; for the Potawatomi
+(Potanons), _ibid._, p. 115, note 84. The Piankeshaw and Miami are
+respectively noted in our volume i, p. 142, note 115; p. 27, note 24.
+The Wyandot (Viandots) were the Huron; see our volume i, p. 29, note
+26.
+
+Two treaties--the first with the Delawares, signed August 18, 1804;
+the second with the Piankeshaw, August 27, 1804--were concluded by
+William Henry Harrison at Vincennes. By these treaties all the
+southwestern portion of Indiana below the Vincennes tract already
+ceded, became the property of the United States. See W. H. Smith,
+_History of Indiana_ (Indianapolis, 1897), pp. 230-233.--ED.
+
+[95] Bloomington, the seat of Monroe County, Indiana, was laid out by
+Benjamin Park, July 12, 1818.
+
+By the two acts of March 26, 1804, and April 16, 1816, Congress
+granted two townships of land, subsequently located in Gibson and
+Monroe counties "for the use of a seminary of learning." The
+territorial legislature on November 9, 1806, established in the
+borough of Vincennes "an university to be known by the name and style
+of the Vincennes University." The attempt proved a failure, and the
+land was transferred to the Indiana Seminary created on January 20,
+1820. The latter was, on January 24, 1828, raised to the dignity of
+Indiana College, and on February 15, 1838, to Indiana University.--ED.
+
+[96] The other taxes were at this time the following:--1. Poll-tax,
+thirty-seven and a half cents per head, per annum. 2. Land-tax,
+according to the quality of the land; in Illinois, one and a half
+cents per acre on land of the best quality. 3. Watch-tax, twenty-five
+cents on a silver watch, and half a dollar on a gold watch. 4.
+Horse-tax, thirty-five cents on every horse above three years old.
+Twenty-five cents on every pair of draught oxen. This was the case in
+Indiana; in Illinois, a tax of half a dollar, on the value of 100
+dollars for every head of cattle above three years old. All grocers
+who sell sugar, coffee, and spirituous liquors, pay a tax in Indiana,
+as well as publicans. The landlord of the inn at which we lodged, paid
+a tax of ten dollars per annum. All these taxes are levied by the
+Government of the State, and are liable to be changed.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[97] See p. 175, for illustration of neck-yoke and plow.--ED.
+
+[98] In the splendid work, "Genus Pinus," by my lamented friend, A. B.
+Lambert, Esq., Vice-President of the Linnean Society, lately deceased,
+there is a plate and an interesting account of this tree. Mr. Lambert
+states that "it was introduced into England by Lord Bagot, from seeds
+received from the celebrated naturalist, Mr. Correa de Serra, then
+ambassador of Portugal to the United States. Lord Bagot has two fine
+trees in his conservatory, and was so good as to give me plants of it,
+which are now growing in my conservatory at Boyton."--H. EVANS LLOYD.
+
+[99] Fox River, a bayou of the Big Wabash River, in the eastern
+portion of Philip Township, White County, Illinois, cuts off about six
+miles of territory, known as Fox Island.--ED.
+
+[100] See Bodmer's view of this junction, Plate 38, in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[101] See Evans's _Pedestrious Tour_, in our volume viii, p. 192, note
+45.--ED.
+
+[102] This _Nymphaea_ had, in January, thrown out short pedunculi, near
+to its tuberculous root, at some depth below the water, from which
+thick, round, yellow flower-buds had sprouted. The arrow-shaped leaves
+were green, but, at this time, at a great depth under water.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[103] The parroquet (or parrakeet), a diminution of the Spanish
+_perico_, meaning parrot, is the term applied to many small varieties
+of parrots, especially to the long-tailed East Indian and Australian
+species of the genus _Palaeorius_. At the opening of the nineteenth
+century they were quite numerous in the southern portion of the United
+States; but they have now disappeared, save in the wilder portions of
+Indian Territory and Florida. See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv,
+p. 161, note 108.--ED.
+
+[104] See Plate 38, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+JOURNEY FROM NEW HARMONY TO ST. LOUIS ON THE MISSISSIPPI, AND OUR STAY
+THERE, FROM MARCH 16TH TO APRIL 9TH, 1833
+
+   Mount Vernon--Mouth of the Wabash--Shawneetown--Battery
+   Rock--Cave-in-Rock--Cumberland River--Tenessee River--Mouth of
+   the Ohio--Cape Girardeau--Grand Tower--St. Genevieve--Merrimack
+   River--Vide Poche--Kahokia--St. Louis--Sac and Fox
+   Indians--Meeting of the Black Hawk with his Countrymen at
+   Jefferson Barracks--The American Fur Company--Preparations for
+   the Journey up the Missouri.
+
+
+After taking leave of our friends at Harmony, who, during a residence
+of four months, had given us unvarying proofs of kindness and
+hospitality, we set out on horseback early in the morning of the 16th
+of March, leaving our baggage to be conveyed by the Ohio. The day was
+fine, and, rejoicing in the warm spring sun, we reached the hills that
+bounded the valley of the Wabash. We were immediately surrounded by
+lofty forests, and cast a farewell look on the cheerful country which
+had so long sheltered us. Perched on the top of the maple, oak, and
+tulip tree, the robin poured forth his morning song. The turtle-dove
+was cooing with her sweet low moan, and the shrill voice and hammering
+of the woodpeckers resounded on every side. In Europe the soft note of
+the turtle is not heard till spring is more advanced, and the trees
+are clothed with verdure. Many trees were covered with buds; those of
+the dog-wood were particularly forward, the beautiful white flowers of
+which appear before the leaves; this is the case with many of the
+trees of this country. We passed Rush Creek, on the eminences near
+which grow many sugar-maple trees, the juice of which was tapped, and
+had in some of them already ceased to flow. At the lower part of all
+the trunks, we found small tubes of elder inserted, from which the
+insipid sweetish juice ran into the troughs placed below them. It is
+said to flow in great abundance, when hot spring days are succeeded by
+cold frosty nights. We soon reached what is called a sugar camp in the
+forest; it is a hut, in the floor of which four kettles are fixed for
+boiling the juice. This [pg. 94] hut contains likewise large troughs, in
+which the juice from the smaller, placed at the trees, is collected.
+Such a hut, with the maples growing around it, is called a sugar camp,
+and the quantity of sugar produced depends on the number of maples in
+the vicinity. Many camps furnish in one spring 300, 500, or even 1000
+lbs. of sugar, which is crystallized in loaves. It is brown, but very
+sweet, and has no disagreeable flavour. We refreshed ourselves with
+the juice in the small troughs, which our horses drank greedily.
+
+The people in the isolated dwellings in the forest were partly engaged
+in burning the timber. Many of the small wooden houses of these
+peasants were without windows; glass windows are quite a luxury, and
+the only light enjoyed in the daytime is admitted by the open door. We
+saw in all these dwellings, very wide, large beds. We crossed the Big
+Creek, a considerable stream, with rising banks, by a wooden bridge;
+here we saw many piles of oak bark, which is sold to the tanneries. At
+noon, the weather being excessively hot, we reached Mount Vernon, on
+the Ohio.
+
+In this little scattered place, with about 600 inhabitants, among whom
+there are five medical men, about one third of the buildings are of
+brick; the town-hall stands in an open square. The Ohio, which we
+immediately visited, had now a much more striking appearance than at
+our first visit in the autumn. It is considerably broader than the
+Rhine, and it is said that it often rises thirty feet higher--up to
+the very thresholds of the buildings standing on the bank. The view
+both up and down the river was beautiful. The immediate environs of
+Mount Vernon consist of damp marshy forests; hence the water is very
+bad, and the inhabitants prefer even that of the Ohio. The temperature
+at noon was now very warm; 14 deg. Reaumur.
+
+We were obliged to wait a couple of days in this little town for a
+steam-boat, to go down the river. The rushing noise of the steamers
+often called us to the river, but they were mostly going up, and
+disappeared at Diamond Island. At last, on the 18th of March, about
+ten in the morning, two steam-boats appeared, of which the largest,
+the Napoleon, did not stop; while the smaller one, the Conveyance,
+took us in.[105] We proceeded rapidly, reached before noon Wabash
+Island, near the mouth of that river, and after dinner landed at
+Shawneetown.
+
+Shawneetown or Shawaneetown is a hamlet lying along the banks of the
+river, and containing from 600 to 700 inhabitants. The best buildings
+are some inns, shops, and the post-office. The tribe of the Shawnee
+Indians formerly dwelt in this country, and were succeeded by some
+Delawares, who have been long since expelled or extirpated.
+Arrow-heads of flint, as well as the bones, &c., of these people, are
+frequently found in the neighbourhood. The Shawnees were said to have
+previously dwelt on the Savaney River, on the coast of Florida, and
+afterwards lived for about sixty-five years in the state of Ohio. They
+consisted, according to Dr. Morse, of four tribes:--1. The Piqua; 2.
+The Maguachake; 3. The Kiskopokoke, to which the celebrated prophet,
+Elsquataway, and his distinguished brother, Tecumseh, belonged. They
+were very warlike. In [pg. 95] 1806 they settled near Greenville, in the
+State of Ohio, and their subsequent history is well known. They
+afterwards went to the country about Tippecanoe. 4. The Chillicothes,
+who live in the vicinity of the town of that name; these, and further
+accounts of these people, are to be found in Dr. Morse, and other
+writers.[106]
+
+Twelve miles inland from Shawneetown are the celebrated salt works on
+Saline River,[107] near Equality; much salt is annually manufactured
+there, and sent to Shawneetown, on the Ohio, where it is embarked.
+Here, as at Mount Vernon, the environs of the place consist of damp
+forests, with many marshes, from which noxious exhalations arise. The
+weather was chilly, windy, and rainy, especially towards evening, so
+that a fire was very welcome. Coals are found about seven miles from
+the town, and seem to be of a good kind. There were many negroes in
+Shawneetown; whereas, in Harmony and Mount Vernon, there were only two
+or three families of that race.
+
+On the morning of the 19th, the weather being warm, and the sky
+clouded, we embarked in the Paragon steamboat.[108] The fine broad
+river shone brightly; on the banks the summits of the forest formed an
+even line parallel to the shore, as even as if they had been cut, the
+snow-white stems of the planes glistening among the sombre mass. The
+kingfisher, the wild duck, and red-breasted goose, were numerous in
+the wild, romantic willow islands. The banks of the Ohio now began to
+be higher; the rocks are of limestone, which forms, in many parts of
+the forests, romantic masses of rock, partly yellow, partly of a grey
+colour. The river was at this time nearly of the same colour as the
+Rhine, when clear. After passing the mouth of the Saline River, we
+reached, on the right, or Illinois bank, the long flat bank of rocks
+known by the name of Battery Rock.[109] This wall of rock, at the
+lower part of the bank, is marked with horizontal strata, or stripes,
+from sixty to eighty feet high, covered with whitish or bluish green
+and bright green lichens and mosses, rent by several ravines, and
+crowned with woods, and a small house or cottage on the very summit.
+From this place we saw, on the rocky banks, some red cedars here and
+there, from twenty to thirty feet in height. I observe, for the
+botanist, that this tree is not found except where the bank consists
+of rocks. After passing Cave-in-Rock Island, a long, wooded island, we
+glided past Cave-in-Rock,[110] a cavern which traverses from side to
+side a steep rock in Illinois, and has been drawn by Lesueur. The
+rocky wall, in which this well-known opening is situated, is marked
+with regular, narrow, yellowish grey or reddish strata of limestone,
+and is crowned with cedars and other trees. It is twenty-five miles
+below Shawneetown. Calcareous petrifactions, or rather impressions,
+are very numerous. Above the larger mouth of the cavern, towards the
+Ohio, is a smaller chamber, which is said to have formerly been the
+retreat of banditti and coiners. The rock is hard limestone, with sea
+shells and animal remains scattered in it, but no fossil bones have
+ever been found there.
+
+Towards noon we reached Golconda Island, twenty and a half miles from
+Cave-in-Rock, [pg. 96] and then Golconda in Illinois, a small town, with
+a few white buildings, in which they were erecting a court-house, and
+which is the seat of the tribunals of Pope County. Near Sister Islands
+we met the Brunswick steamer, which had in tow two large flat boats,
+full of horses, which were being conveyed from Mount Vernon to New
+Orleans. The owners of the horses have to pay above 500 dollars for
+the voyage. Opposite Cumberland Island is the mouth of the Cumberland
+River, which comes from Kentucky, and falls into the Ohio, at an acute
+angle. This river is not so large as the Wabash. A small village,
+called Smithland, is built at the mouth, which reminded me of a little
+Brazilian villa, the houses, mostly one story high, lying in a row by
+the water-side.[111]
+
+At this place the Paragon took in wood and provisions. Not far from
+Smithland is the mouth of the Tenessee River, which is said to be more
+considerable than the Cumberland, and to have a course of 1,200 miles.
+The little village, Paduca, on the left bank of the Ohio, appeared to
+have much traffic, and a number of new shops had been built. The
+Western Pilot of the year 1829 does not mention this place--a proof of
+its recent origin. From hence we came to the spot where Fort Massac
+formerly stood, stones of which are still found.[112] We lay to some
+hundred paces below to take in wood, of which our vessel consumed
+twelve cords daily. The grass on the banks was already of a bright
+green colour, and a race of large long-legged sheep were grazing on
+it. We lay to for the night.
+
+Early in the morning of the 20th of March we approached the mouth of
+the Ohio, where it falls into the Mississippi, 959 miles from
+Pittsburg, and 129-3/4 miles from St. Louis. The tongue of land on the
+right, which separates the two rivers, was, like the whole of the
+country, covered with rich woods, which were partly cleared, and a few
+houses erected, with an inn and store, and the dwelling of a planter,
+where we took in wood. In this store we saw, among heaps of skins,
+that of a black bear, lately killed, of which one of the three cubs, a
+very comical little beast, had been kept alive. This young bear had on
+his breast a semicircle of white hair. The settlement, at which we now
+were, has no other name than Mouth of the Ohio.[113] We now entered
+the Mississippi, and ascended it, keeping to the left or eastern bank.
+This river is not broader here than the Ohio, and the water of both
+was of the same colour; the bank was steep, covered with broken stems
+of trees, and crowned on the summit with high slender poplars. The
+lower banks were clothed with lofty trees, and at their feet strips
+of poplar and willows bending over the water. On the right hand, in
+particular, were romantic forest scenes; a wilderness of fallen trees,
+which the floods and storms had thrown and piled upon each other, like
+an _abatis_. Parasite plants wound round the trees, and matted them
+together; while, further on, rose the picturesque terraces of the
+wood-covered bank. There being many snags (trunks lying in the water)
+in the river, we could only proceed by daylight. The islands, covered
+with high poplars, were generally bordered with thickets of willow,
+which had now no appearance whatever of green, but looked of a bright
+yellowish red, from the colour of their branches. Gleams of sunshine
+[pg. 97] sometimes cast over these willow thickets a fine red glow, and
+gave them a very original appearance. Large quantities of drifted wood
+were frequently seen on the points of the islands towards the current.
+The water being very low, we were obliged to take soundings, and yet
+our vessel proceeded five or eight hours against the stream. The
+O'Connell steam-boat had run aground in this place, and its people
+were employed in landing the cargo, consisting chiefly of lead.[114]
+In many places on the bank, slender poplars form thick groves, whose
+tall stems spread into branches at the summit. They are all of an
+equal height, and are one of the characteristic features in the
+landscape scenery of the Mississippi and Missouri. At twelve at noon,
+Reaumur's thermometer was at +14-1/2 deg., with a high wind, which blew
+the sand of the sand banks into the air. We lay to, to take in fuel,
+which cost three dollars for two cords. Here was a high, steep, sandy
+bank, and a small, very wretched planter's log-house, exposed on all
+parts to the wind, the sides of which consisted only of boards set
+upright. A couple of bad beds took up almost the whole of the
+interior. The woman, with her pipe in her mouth, was occupied at the
+miserable fire-place; the man was just returned, with a boy, from the
+forest; the two other children looked unhealthy, weak and pale; one of
+these girls was employed in planting onions in a small patch of
+newly-prepared ground. A couple of oxen, five or six young hogs, and
+some Muscovy ducks, were feeding about the cottage. Immediately
+behind, and close to it, commenced the magnificent, dense, and lofty
+forest, which we resolved at once to explore, and there very sensibly
+felt the heat of the spring, because the wind could not penetrate. The
+underwood of the forest consisted of the spicewood (_Laurus benzoin_),
+which grows to the height of ten and fifteen feet; its bark is highly
+aromatic, and it was covered with small yellow blossoms, which appear
+before the leaves, and resemble those of our cornelian cherry. The
+abundance of these flowers gives to the underwood a lively tint, which
+strikes the eye at a distance. Large, lofty trees, overgrown with
+climbing plants, formed the forest on the Mississippi, and the ground
+was covered with a delicate yellow flowering plant (_Corydalis flava,
+N._) In the front of the cottage, which was close to the bank, stood a
+tree, about which a beautiful _Bignonia radicans_ entwined; and the
+turkey buzzards hovered high in the air above the forest.
+
+As we proceeded on our voyage, the wind was so high, and it raised the
+waves and the sand so excessively, that we sought the protection of
+the opposite bank. We passed many islands, several of which give a
+great insight into the formation of the banks of the Mississippi. One
+of them, especially, showed, at a certain place, a bank which had sunk
+down, where we perceived layers of large trunks of trees, heaped one
+upon another, the tops of which were visible. On such foundations the
+river throws its sand, willows and poplars grow up, by the leaves of
+which good earth is formed, and, in the end, lofty forests of hard
+wood arise. Though the Paragon drew only five feet of water, we were
+often aground; the wind laid the vessel a little on the side, the crew
+shoved with poles, sounded, stopped the engine, then made the vessel
+go backwards [pg. 98] and then sidewards, and so got afloat again.
+Little villages were seldom seen on this part of the banks of the
+Mississippi; however, we came to the village of Commerce,[115] on a
+rocky hill, and it is here that rows of hills of a very interesting
+appearance commence on the left or Missouri bank. Fragments of rock
+lie about, and the cedar (_Juniperus Virginiana_) immediately appears
+again. The forest seems to decrease in height in these calcareous
+rocks, especially the planes, which are more colossal in Indiana; and
+on the eminences in the forests, isolated groups of rocks are often
+seen, frequently of singular forms, like pulpits. Night setting in, we
+retired to our cabin to avoid the cold evening air, and lay to under
+cover of the bank. At this spot there was a single planter's dwelling
+upon the steep bank, which was fifty or sixty feet high. A large fire
+was kindled at the top, which brilliantly illuminated the high trunks
+of the forest, and warmed our crew by its intense heat. In the cleanly
+cottage of the peasant, which was well closed on all sides, we
+conversed with his wife, who told us that their house had been burnt
+down a short time before, and rebuilt; she said also that wild animals
+abound in this part of the country; stags especially are numerous, but
+bears are rarely met with.
+
+On the 21st of March we reached Cape Girardeau, an ancient French
+settlement, now a large scattered village, which, as we were told, had
+of late much improved. Beds of limestone appeared on the bank, and
+heaps of it were piled up; it contains many shells. After passing
+Devil's Island, we found in the river a sunk steam-boat, which was now
+quite broken up; many of these vessels passed us. The spicewood was
+everywhere in flower in the forests on the bank, and it is said that
+its appearance indicates a fine soil. The pretty narrow-leaved willow,
+on the contrary, was still covered with its last year's dry leaves. We
+passed by the villages of Bainbridge and Harrisburg, and then came to
+that part of the river which is called Hanging-Dog-Bend, where the
+Mississippi is wide and beautiful. Various strata and ravines are
+observed in the wooded calcareous mountains; such a stratified rock,
+cleft perpendicularly, has the name of Devil's Tea-table; other rocks
+resembled round towers standing close to each other, all crowned with
+wood, where the turkey buzzard resorted.[116] The opposite or Illinois
+bank has very seldom any such rocks, and it is more cultivated close
+to the river. Flocks of ducks, probably _Anas rufitorques_, were
+swimming on the water. The calcareous rocks, grey, bright yellow,
+bright blue, or yellowish red, were frequently very singularly formed,
+especially a little further up, the interesting Grand Tower, an
+isolated, cylindrical rock, from sixty to eighty feet in height, which
+we reached when it was splendidly illumined by the setting sun.[117]
+To the right, on the Illinois bank, opposite the Tower Rock, at the
+point or corner of the mountain projecting towards the Mississippi,
+three or four very strangely formed rocks are standing, full of
+clefts and ravines, the foremost of which is called the Devil's
+Bake-oven, and is covered at the summit with pines. The Grand
+Tower[118] stands [pg. 99] quite isolated on the left bank; and its
+summit is crowned with red cedars. Behind it there is another large
+rock, split into several perpendicular divisions, like towers, and the
+whole group forms, as it were, a most original portico. Some
+habitations were picturesquely situated against these rocks. A little
+above that narrow rocky portico of the river, the Obrazo Creek, in the
+State of Missouri, appears, where we took in fuel. The ravine of the
+stream was covered with fine tall timber, to which the kingfisher
+resorted. A couple of cottages were inhabited by negroes, and in front
+of them lay a piece of fertile land, where rows of cotton trees were
+planted. The high old elms were now in flower by the side of the
+stream, and the large red cedars, around the dwellings, were still
+partly laden with their black berries. The _Mnium ciliare_ (Grev.;
+Bryum) was abundant in this neighbourhood. Above Hat Island, we lay to
+for the night on the Missouri bank.
+
+The morning of the 22nd of March was serene; the sight of the rising
+sun from the poop of the vessel was truly magnificent; as the flaming
+disk of the king of day rose above the woody banks of the Mississippi,
+the waves formed by the rapid course of the vessel glowed with the
+most resplendent colours; the wild geese and ducks, frightened by our
+Paragon, hastened away with rustling wings; the kingfisher was
+frequent on the shrubs. Near St. Mary River we ran aground, but were
+not long delayed by this accident. The cords of wood for the
+steam-boat were lying ready piled up on the bank, stating the price
+and the quantity. The village of Chester, in Illinois, where we took
+in wood, was quite a new settlement, consisting at present of but a
+few houses. Among the limestone and wood on the bank, we shot a
+beautiful lizard (_Agama undulata_, Daud.), which is said to attain a
+considerable size, especially on the river St. Peter. The buds of the
+red oak were very forward. At noon the weather was excessively warm,
+and on the river the thermometer was +11-1/2 deg. Reaumur. We saw the
+mouth of the Kaskaskia River, on the Illinois bank, six miles up which
+Kaskaskia is situated, one of the oldest French settlements on the
+Mississippi.[119] The tribe of Kaskaskian Indians dwelt in these
+parts, and some remains of them still live near the settlement. We
+were told that there was at present only one man among them of the
+pure race. A wooded chain of hills runs along the Kaskaskia, in which
+large columns of smoke were rising, doubtless occasioned by the woods
+being on fire. Numbers of tortoises were basking at noon on the trunks
+of trees and stones in the river. They have hard shells, and most of
+them are not large; though we often shot at them, we did not succeed
+in getting a single one. Wild geese were walking upon the sand-banks;
+we fired at them; the first shot did not in the smallest degree
+discompose them; at the second, when the ball whizzed close by them,
+they flew away, but only to a short distance. At St. Genevieve Island,
+the river divides, and we steered to the west of the island. It is
+covered with lofty trees; the banks are abruptly broken; large trunks
+[pg. 100] of trees were lying in the water. Before us we saw St.
+Genevieve,[120] where columns of smoke ascended in the distance; on
+the island was a small settlement, with a hut, worse than that of an
+Indian, and near, the canoe, turned bottom upwards. The inhabitants
+were sunburnt, badly clothed, of a savage aspect, like the Indians. A
+tall forest surrounded this characteristic scene. The Mississippi is
+here very broad, and is certainly a very noble stream. The prospect up
+the river is highly picturesque. Gentle eminences bound the horizon,
+and on account of a bend which the river makes to the right, it
+appears to come through a narrow opening. St. Genevieve, an old French
+settlement, now a large village, with 600 or 800 inhabitants, is about
+twenty minutes' walk from the landing-place, and appears to be in a
+state of decline; it was founded at the same time as Kaskaskia. The
+streets are at right angles, unpaved, and bordered with hedges. The
+houses, which are of one story, are separate from each other, and
+have, in general, a verandah in front. The church is built of red
+brick. French and English are spoken, and there are several German
+inhabitants. Caravans go every spring from hence to the interior of
+the western prairies, to Sante Fe and the Rocky Mountains; they
+consist of many armed men, with their horses and wagons. The
+well-known lead mines are further up the country.[121] Limestone
+everywhere stands out: the water is very bad, and not fit for
+drinking.
+
+On the morning of the 23rd of March, the sun shining very brightly,
+strange forms of rock, alternating with high forests, appeared on the
+banks of the river; on the left, or western bank especially, the walls
+of rock were cleft by rude valleys, from which a small stream
+generally issued. Single pines are scattered in the woods; on the
+right bank, on the skirts of the forest, is a row of poplars, of
+perfectly equal height, but the planes are not so high as those we
+have before seen. We passed the place where Fort Chartres formerly
+stood.[122] The limestone rocks in these parts assume the most highly
+original shapes and formations, about which much might be said if our
+limits would permit. They have often natural caverns and excavations,
+like the niches cut for the images of saints, which we see in
+Europe.[123] Others have regular [pg. 101] projecting ledges and lofty
+cones; sometimes they are so rounded as to represent a row of
+perpendicular towers, &c. On many of the rocks shot towers have been
+erected, the whole country, as is well known, abounding in lead.
+
+  [Illustration: Formations of limestone rocks]
+
+We passed by the settlement of Selma, and the village of
+Herculaneum;[124] the latter consisting of about thirty houses, the
+immediate vicinity of which is remarkable for a perforated limestone
+rock. The distance from hence to Genevieve is twenty-one miles, and to
+St. Louis, thirty. After passing round the point of Little Rock, which
+is about forty feet high--beyond which the small Platteen Creek falls
+into the river--we soon reached the mouth of the Merrimack River,
+where we saw large flocks of ducks and sea-gulls.[125] About Robert's
+Island the country becomes flat and uninteresting. Towards evening we
+reached Jefferson barracks, on the left bank, where the 6th
+regiment of regular infantry was in garrison, and the flag of the
+United States was hoisted. These barracks were interesting at this
+time, because the celebrated Indian chief, Black Hawk, was imprisoned
+in them. Before night, we passed the French settlement of Vide-Poche,
+or Carondelet, founded about 100 years ago, a large scattered village,
+the inhabitants of which are reported to be not very industrious. The
+neighbouring hills are covered with low oak bushes. We passed the
+night nearly opposite Kahokia, and on the morning of the 24th of
+March, to our great joy, beheld the town of St. Louis.[126] Its first
+appearance is not prepossessing, as it has no high steeples. The mass
+of houses, however, unfolds itself as you approach; the environs are
+low and monotonous. We landed about nine o'clock in the morning, in a
+cold high wind. The people whom we first saw were mostly negroes, or
+labourers.
+
+St. Louis is a rapidly increasing town, with 6,000 or 8,000
+inhabitants, on the western bank of the Mississippi, about 1,200 miles
+from New Orleans, and 1,134 miles from Pittsburg. It is built on a
+rather bare, gently rising, and not very elevated part of the banks;
+forms two streets parallel to the river, besides many houses lying on
+the summit in the prairie, where building seemed to be proceeding
+rapidly. On this upper part there are churches and other considerable
+buildings, of which the town has many of different kinds; and the
+highly favourable situation, in the centre of the trade of the
+Mississippi, Ohio, and Missouri, will soon make it one of the most
+important places in the west. St. Louis was originally founded by the
+French; at first there was only a fort, and it was not till 1764 that
+the building of the town commenced, which in 1816 contained about
+2,000 inhabitants. Persons were still living--for instance, M.
+Chouteau--who had the wood felled on the spot where the buildings of
+the town now stand.[127] The principal streets are full of handsome
+shops; numerous steam-boats come and go, daily, to and from New
+Orleans, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, Prairie du Chien, &c.; and
+a very brisk trade employs the motley population of many nations. Most
+of the merchants have their warehouses, which are mostly built of
+solid stone, on the bank of the Mississippi. The greater part of the
+workmen in the port, and all the servants in St. Louis, are negroes,
+and their descendants, who, as in the State [pg. 102] of Missouri, are
+all slaves. They are very numerous here; and though modern travellers
+represent in very favourable colours the situation of this oppressed
+race, the negro slaves are no better off here than in other countries.
+Everywhere they are a demoralized race, little to be depended upon;
+and the manner in which they are treated is generally not so good as
+has been represented. We were witnesses of deplorable punishments of
+these people. One of our neighbours at St. Louis, for instance,
+flogged one of his slaves in the public streets, with untiring arm.
+Sometimes he stopped a moment to rest, and then began anew.
+
+St. Louis was the more interesting to us, at this moment, because we
+had, here, the first opportunity of becoming acquainted with the
+North American Indians in all their originality; for the office for
+all the Indian affairs of the west is at St. Louis, under the
+direction of General Clarke, celebrated for his journey with Captain
+Lewis to the Rocky Mountains and Columbia River, who has the title of
+superintendent of Indian affairs.[128] He manages all these matters;
+and all strangers who wish to visit the interior of the western
+territory are obliged to have a passport from him, and all Indian
+agents and sub-agents are under him. It happened that, during our stay
+at St. Louis, a deputation came down the Mississippi from two Indian
+tribes, the Saukies (Sacs) and the Foxes or Outagamis, to intercede
+for the Black Hawk, who was a prisoner in Jefferson barracks.[129] A
+Saukie chief, named Kiokuck, was at the head of this numerous
+deputation, and he was the very same person who had delivered the
+unfortunate Black Hawk into the hands of the Americans.[130] General
+Clarke, to whom I was introduced by the kindness of Duke Bernhard of
+Saxe Weimar, had very obligingly informed me of the meetings or
+councils which he held with the Indians, and we had the pleasure of
+being able thoroughly to observe and study these remarkable people.
+Quarters were assigned them in a large magazine near the harbour, to
+which we immediately repaired. We saw already on the beach a
+collection of the populace, and amidst the crowd of curious
+spectators, distinguished the strange dark brown figures, enveloped in
+red, white, or green blankets. We did not come up to them till they
+were in the house, and the first sight of them, which did not a little
+surprise me, convinced me at once of their great affinity to the
+Brazilians, so that I cannot hesitate to consider them as belonging to
+the same race.[131] They are stout, well formed men, many of them
+above the middle size, broad shouldered, muscular and brawny. The
+features of the men are expressive, and strongly marked; the cheek
+bones prominent, the lower jaw broad and angular; the dark brown eyes
+animated and fiery, and especially in youth, the inner corner rather
+drawn down, but not so much so as in the Brazilians. The outer corner
+of the eye is not elevated either in the North or South Americans, at
+least I have seen it [pg. 103] in very few instances. The forehead
+appears to me not to recede so much in the North Americans as has
+been generally assumed, which is also the case with the Brazilians.
+Meyen[132] confirms this with respect to the people west of the
+Cordilleras. The teeth are strong, firm, and white, and generally
+perfectly sound, even at an advanced age. The nose is large and
+prominent, often much arched, but not always, a trait which occurs
+much more rarely among the Brazilians.[133] The lips are usually
+rather thick; the hair straight, smooth, and black, as in all the
+Americans. The colour of the skin a darker or lighter brown, often
+deeper than in the Brazilians, but, on the whole, perfectly the same.
+Some of these Indians resemble the Chinese, which Bossu, too, affirms
+of the now extirpated race of the Natchez. The features of others
+strongly reminded me of the Botocudos.[134]
+
+It may be observed here, with Von Humboldt and Meyen,[135] that,
+notwithstanding a certain general affinity and resemblance of the
+race, there are, however, very great diversities among the people of
+American descent. Thus, for instance, the large aquiline nose of
+several northern nations may be mentioned, which must have been very
+remarkable among the ancient tribes of Mexico, as is proved by the old
+monuments of that, historically, most interesting country. Though this
+similarity appears to indicate an affinity of the Mexicans with more
+northern nations, a similar conformation was found here and there in
+South America also; as Duperrey[136] represents the Peruvians, and as
+Dr. Meyen also states. I am, however, of opinion that the notion of
+the last-named learned travellers is untenable, _viz._, that on
+account of the different[137] form of their skulls, the Puris and the
+Botocudos, who live so near to each other, are distinct races. I have
+compared numbers of Mandan skulls with each other, which were all
+genuine, and found great diversity in them, especially with respect to
+the receding of the forehead and the flattening of the head. In the
+same manner the brown colour of the American is of different shades.
+Mr. Von Humboldt found the Mexicans darker than many South
+Americans;[138] and many of the North American nations which I have
+seen, were likewise of a darker complexion than many Brazilians. My
+observations with respect to this point coincide so perfectly with the
+views of that distinguished traveller, that I might copy the passages
+in his works which treat of the Americans, and confirm them by many
+additional proofs. Among the Botocudos I met with individuals who were
+nearly white; Volney was certainly deceived by Michichinakua (the
+little tortoise), who wanted to raise himself to the dignity of a
+white man, for the North Americans are not of a lighter colour on
+[pg. 104] those parts of their bodies which are clothed, than on those
+which are exposed to the air and sun. Pike, and some other
+travellers, pretend to have found the Mongol physiognomy among the
+North American Indians, especially the Pawnees and the Sioux;[139] but
+I can affirm that I met with no such physiognomy, though I saw a few
+instances of it in Brazil. Mr. Von Humboldt very justly observes, on
+this head, that not merely the bodily conformation, but likewise the
+mode of living, of the two races, are entirely different. The great
+contrast between the American and Mongol races is immediately
+apparent, when we consider that the former have no breed of cattle,
+and do not subsist on milk, without which the latter cannot live.[140]
+The Tartar features, which are very handsome, did not occur to me in
+North America. Warden, in his work on American antiquities,[141] gives
+a drawing of a vessel found near the river Cany, which is adorned with
+three human heads. These heads have not the Tartar physiognomy, as the
+author believes, but precisely that of the North American Indians.
+
+From this digression on the general conformation of the North
+Americans, we return to our narrative.
+
+The Saukies and Foxes had shaved their hair off the whole head except
+a small tuft behind, the greater part of which was cut short, like a
+brush, and which terminated in a thin braid, to which was fastened the
+chief ornament of the head, the deer's tail, which is a tuft of hair
+from the tail of the Virginian stag, white, with some black hair, the
+white part being dyed red with vermilion.[142] It is fastened in an
+ingenious manner, with some strings and pegs of wood, to the tuft of
+hair at the back of the head; and in the middle of it, concealed
+between the hair, is a small piece of carved wood, to which a small
+bone box is affixed, into which a large eagle's feather is fastened,
+projecting horizontally behind; this feather is often dyed with
+vermilion, and is the characteristic distinction of a brave warrior.
+He who has become renowned for horse-stealing, which, according to
+their notions, is a heroic exploit, fastens to the tip of this feather
+the rattle of a rattlesnake. The whole deer's tail, when it is not
+worn, is rolled up in the form of a thick ball, fastened with leather
+straps, and kept in this manner, that the hair may remain smooth, and
+in the proper position. Mr. Bodmer took an admirable likeness of
+Watapinat (eagle's nest), a handsome Fox Indian, wearing this
+head-dress.[143] The North Americans pluck out their eyebrows, beard,
+&c., like the Brazilians, and, at present, employ in this operation a
+spiral wire, between the windings of which they take hold of the hair.
+These nations adorn their ears in a very original manner; three large
+holes, one above the other, are made at the outer rim, in which short
+strings of blue and white wampum shells[144] are hung, like tassels.
+Some of the men had even cut through [pg. 105] the whole outer rim,
+which remained attached only above and below, and was adorned with
+strings of wampum and metal rings; similar strings, and pieces of blue
+and white shells, are worn in many rows around the neck.
+
+The women are small and thickset; most of them have large round heads,
+and broad, flat, round faces. They let their hair grow naturally, part
+it on the forehead, and tie it together, at the back of the head, in a
+short, thick bunch, which is bound round with red and green ribbon. A
+few old men had not shaved their heads; but in winter it is said that
+these Indians let their hair grow, to protect them against the cold.
+Both sexes had their faces more or less painted red: the Saukies
+mostly red, in different designs; the Foxes, red and yellow, or red,
+white, and black. The manner of painting depends on the taste of the
+individual; nearly all of them had red circles round the eyes and
+ears, and red stripes down the cheeks, the rest of the face being left
+of the natural colour. They use, for this purpose, vermilion, which
+they obtain from the merchants. The Fox Indians had often the whole
+head painted red; a yellow or white stripe on the forehead, and the
+mouth and chin with the figure of a yellow hand, or else quite black.
+A tall, handsome Saukie Indian, called Massica (the tortoise), had a
+bold, fierce countenance, and an aquiline nose; his cordiality was
+very striking; his brown eyes sparkled, and his white teeth looked
+quite dazzling, contrasted with the dark brown face, which had a good
+deal of red paint on it. On his forehead he wore a band of otter skin,
+which was fastened behind the head, and then fell down in two long
+stripes to the ground. He had attached a black and white eagle's
+feather to his deer's tail, and was covered with a large red blanket.
+Mr. Bodmer has given a very good likeness of this handsome man in
+Plate 36, but without his head-dress, in order to show the manner in
+which the tuft of hair was cut. Many of these people wore coloured
+calico shirts, and all used the Indian leather leggins, which come
+down to the shoes, and are ornamented at the ankles with leather
+fringes. They are fastened, with leather straps, above the girdle.
+They also wear a piece of woollen cloth, generally striped blue and
+white, round the waist, which is fastened under the girdle. The
+girdle and knee bands were often very elegantly adorned with glass
+beads, and in the former is a sheath, similarly ornamented, for a
+large, broad, and very sharp knife, which they obtain, by barter, from
+the merchants, and employ for various purposes, especially for cutting
+up game, and scalping their enemies. The shoes, generally called
+mocassins, are made of soft, tanned buckskin, and the upper edge
+turned down below the ankle. These people wear them very plain,
+without any ornament. Many of them had fastened swan skins, with the
+down, or that of polecats, much marked with white, below their knees,
+the long hairy tail of which hung down to the ground, or to the ankle.
+Most of them had no other covering, on the upper part of the body,
+under their blankets; and [pg. 106] many wore brass necklaces and
+bracelets. The men, who were between thirty and forty in number, never
+appeared without their arms; they carried tomahawks,[145] or else the
+common Indian club,[146] which has, at the upper end, a steel plate,
+sharp on both edges, and pointed.[147] We did not see any bows and
+arrows among these Indians, because they had not come out on a warlike
+expedition, but on a festal visit; many of them had a kind of lance,
+made of a long sword blade, fastened to a pole, which was covered with
+red cloth, and ornamented with many black raven's or eagle's feathers,
+hanging down either in a long row, or in long bunches.[148] These
+weapons they had always in their hand, and never laid them aside. The
+women, like those of Brazil, carried their bundles on their backs,
+with a leather strap passing over the forehead; they had their
+children with them, some of whom were in very convenient cradles. They
+all had very neat bast mats, ornamented with black figures, on which
+they slept, and some had, likewise, bear skins. Their travelling
+sacks, or bags, in which they had all their effects, were of the same
+material.
+
+The chief or leader of the Indians assembled here, was the Saukie
+chief, Kiokuck, a slender man, of the middle size, with agreeable
+features, not very different from those of an European, though of a
+darker colour. He wore a coloured calico shirt, and, on his breast, a
+large medal, which he had received from the President of the United
+States; and likewise wore a figured handkerchief round his head, and
+was wrapped in a green blanket. He carried in his hand a calumet,
+ornamented with feathers. His face was not painted, his ears not
+disfigured, and it was affirmed that he was not of pure Indian origin.
+He wore brass rings round his neck and wrists.
+
+The dwelling-place of these Indians is on the western banks of the
+Mississippi, about Rock River and Rock Island, where the agent
+appointed for them by the government resides. In 1805 they sold, to
+the United States, their territory on the east of the Mississippi;
+still claiming a large tract of land, which extends from the upper
+Jowa River, along the west bank of the Mississippi, down to the river
+Des Moines, and further back to the Missouri.[149] The Fox Indians
+call themselves Musquacki, or Mus-quack-ki-uck. They live sociably in
+villages, in permanent arched huts, and it is said that they can
+muster 1,600 warriors (according to Dr. Morse, however, only
+800),[150] and that they number about 5,000 souls. They plant maize,
+beans, gourds, &c. The men hunt, and work in their lead mines, which
+are very productive, so that, it is said, they have yielded 500,000
+lbs. in one season.[151] Their language has not a barbarous sound; it
+has some nasals and gutturals; the words are very frequently
+pronounced indistinctly, so that [pg. 107] it is often difficult to
+write them down; though, on the whole, less so than is the case with
+many other nations.
+
+The French and English find much more difficulty than the Germans, in
+pronouncing all the Indian languages of North America, with which I
+have become acquainted. It was highly interesting to us, to observe so
+many of these Indians together. They were by no means grave and still;
+on the contrary, they were very cheerful, and often laughed heartily.
+If one went up to them familiarly, and spoke to them, many of them had
+a very agreeable, friendly expression; others were cold, and appeared,
+to us, hostile. Several repeated, with pleasure, the words of their
+language, and were very willing to have their portraits drawn, for
+which they always required a present. At last they were so annoyed by
+the importunity of the motley crowd, that we could have no more
+intercourse with them. They sold many of their effects, for which they
+received money, which they soon disposed of, but always examined
+whether it was genuine or false. There were some grave, dignified men
+among them, who carefully observed what was passing around them. Of
+these, I especially noticed Watapinat and Massica.
+
+General Clarke invited us to a small assembly, which he was to hold in
+his house with the Indians. We accordingly repaired thither. This
+meeting took place in the apartments, which are ornamented with a
+highly interesting collection of arms and utensils, which the General
+had procured on his extensive travels with Captain Lewis.[152] The
+rooms contain, likewise, portraits of the most distinguished Indian
+chiefs of different nations. General Clarke, with his secretary, was
+seated opposite to the Indians, who sat in rows along the walls of the
+apartment. We strangers sat at the General's side, and near him stood
+the interpreter, a French Canadian. The Indians, about thirty in
+number, had done their best to ornament and paint themselves; they all
+looked very serious and solemn, and their chief sat at their right
+hand. The general first told them, through the interpreter, for what
+reason he had assembled them here, on which Kiokuck rose, with the
+calumet in his left hand, gesticulating with his right hand, in
+harmony with his thoughts; he spoke very loud, in broken sentences,
+interrupted by short pauses. His speech was immediately translated and
+written down. This conference lasted above half an hour. General
+Clarke had introduced us to the Indians, telling them that we had come
+far over the ocean to see them; they all testified their satisfaction
+in a rather drawling "Hah!" or "Ahah." Before and after the sitting
+all the Indians passed us in a line, each giving us his right hand,
+and looking steadfastly in our faces. They then withdrew, headed by
+their chiefs. The General had told them that they should persevere in
+their amicable sentiments as hitherto; and they had expressed the
+wish that their brethren might soon be set at liberty, because their
+wives and children at home were suffering hunger and distress. Upon
+this the General advised them, when Black Hawk and his associates
+should be set at liberty, to keep a watchful eye over them. On this
+condition he would intercede for the prisoners. We were invited by the
+General to accompany him, on the [pg. 108] following day, on board the
+Warrior[153] steam-boat, when he intended to convey the Indians to the
+barracks, to grant them an interview with Black Hawk.
+
+On the 26th of March we found the Indians already on board the
+Warrior, which was hired for this excursion; others of these original
+figures, wrapped in their red blankets, were walking on the beach. We
+had provided cigars and other trifles, by which we soon gained their
+confidence. Massica, the tall young Saukie Indian, was the most
+interesting among them. As soon as General Clarke came, the anchor was
+weighed, and the Warrior proceeded down the Mississippi. The Indians
+assembled on the fore part of the ship, to sing: the bleak wind was
+much felt by many of them, as they wore no covering under their
+blankets, yet they always remained on deck. Below, in the after hold
+of the vessel, they had a fire, at which they boiled and roasted the
+provisions that were given them. They examined, with much attention,
+the steam-engine, the hissing and roaring of which interested them
+extremely. They formed groups of different kinds; many were busy in
+improving the painting of their faces, at their small looking-glasses;
+others were smoking their pipes in philosophical ease; and others lay
+asleep on the floor, wrapped in their blankets. They very readily
+acquiesced, whenever we asked them to sing; their chorus-singing was
+remarkable; it rises and falls, now loud now low, often quavering,
+yet, on the whole, not inharmonious; and though it has some
+resemblance with that of the Botocudos, in Brazil, it was by no means
+so rude and savage. Sometimes they shouted aloud, and generally ended
+their song with their war-whoop--a shrill cry, in which they cause the
+voice to quaver, by holding the hand before the mouth.
+
+About ten o'clock the Warrior approached Jefferson barracks, where the
+inhabitants had assembled on the shore to see the Indian deputation
+land. The Indians sung a wild chorus, rattling their weapons, and, as
+soon as they had landed, marched in procession, led by their chiefs,
+to the heights, where the barracks formed a quadrangle, open to the
+river, enclosing a large space. General Clarke introduced us to
+General Atkinson, the commandant of the place;[154] and, after resting
+a short time in his house, we proceeded to a spacious empty hall in
+one of the adjoining buildings, where the Indians were already seated
+in rows. The Generals sat opposite to them, surrounded by the
+spectators, among whom were several ladies. When all were assembled,
+Kiokuck, with the aid of the interpreter, delivered an address to
+General Atkinson, who replied, on which the prisoners were introduced.
+First of all, Black Hawk appeared, a little old man, perhaps seventy
+years of age, with grey hair, and a light yellow complexion; a
+slightly curved nose, and Chinese features, to which the shaven head,
+with the usual tuft behind, not a little contributed.[155] None of
+the prisoners were painted. These poor men entered with downcast
+looks; and though no Indian betrayed any lively demonstrations of
+emotion, such feelings were very manifest in many of them. The
+prisoners gave their hands to their countrymen all round, and then sat
+down with them. Two of the Indians, known as particularly [pg. 109]
+dangerous men, one of them the celebrated Winnebago prophet, who has a
+repulsive countenance, had chains with large iron balls at their
+feet.[156] The other prisoners were not chained, and we were told that
+they were taken out every day to walk, by the guard. The speeches now
+recommenced: Kiokuck spoke often, and interceded for the prisoners;
+and General Atkinson repeated to them pretty nearly what General
+Clarke had already said, on which the Indians again uttered their
+"Hah," or "Ahah." When the speeches were ended, the company withdrew,
+and left the prisoners alone with their countrymen, to give free vent
+to their feelings. The sight of old Black Hawk, and the whole scene of
+the prisoners and their friends, was affecting, and many of the
+spectators appeared to participate in their feelings.
+
+We then examined the barracks, in which four companies of the 6th
+regiment were quartered. The hospital is a detached building; the
+surrounding country is open prairie; in the vicinity of the
+buildings, however, it is covered with a wood of slender oaks, without
+underwood, and from the eminence is a very agreeable prospect over the
+river. General Atkinson invited us to dinner, and introduced us to his
+family. At three o'clock we again embarked on the Warrior with all the
+Indians, and reached St. Louis late in the evening.
+
+As it was my intention to travel through the interior of the western
+part of North America, and, if possible, the Rocky Mountains, St.
+Louis was unquestionably the most proper basis for such an enterprise.
+The question was, whether it was more advisable to go by the caravans
+by land to Santa Fe, or to proceed by water up the Missouri? Captain
+Stewart (of Grand Tully), an English traveller, with whom I had become
+acquainted at St. Louis, was on the point of setting out by land by
+the caravan, and it would have been agreeable to me to travel in his
+company;[157] but after I had consulted many persons well acquainted
+with the country, the plan of following the course of the Missouri
+seemed to be the most suitable for my purposes; for, first, I should
+not be able to observe any Indians on the land journey; for if you
+happen to meet with them, you must fight them, and, therefore, cannot
+become well acquainted with them; and, secondly, it is extremely
+difficult, nay impossible, to make considerable collections of natural
+history on such a journey. These reasons were decisive: I hoped,
+therefore, to obtain from the gentlemen of the American Fur Company, a
+passage up the Missouri in their steam-boat, the Yellow Stone, which
+was daily expected to return from New Orleans; and as soon as it had
+taken in a cargo, was to set out on its voyage up the Missouri.[158]
+It is necessary to prefix a few words respecting this American Fur
+Company. The first regular company of this kind in the United States
+was the Michilimakinack Fur Company, established in 1790. Its capital
+belonged chiefly to some persons in Canada; but as foreigners were not
+allowed to trade with the Indians in the United States, some citizens
+of the latter gave it the sanction of their names.[159] The last war
+with England dissolved the company, and during that time no trade was
+carried on with the Indians. About 1816, Mr. Astor, of New York, a
+countryman of ours, formed a fur company, under the name of [pg. 110]
+the American Fur Company.[160] His plan was well conceived, very
+extensive, and designed to carry on trade with all the Indian tribes.
+Mr. Astor's enterprises towards the Columbia River did not succeed,
+but in all other parts the fur trade prospered, and is carried on, up
+to the present time, with great success.[161] About the same time two
+other companies were formed at St. Louis--the Missouri Fur Company,
+and the French Company, which proposed to carry on the trade on that
+river. The first continued its operations for about five or six years,
+when it terminated, having met with many difficulties.[162] In 1822
+the Columbia Fur Company was established, and violent opposition and
+rivalry arose between the three companies, which continued till
+1826.[163] During this time the fur trade had afforded but little
+profit to any of the persons engaged in it. In the spring of that
+year, a person of the name of Crooks was sent from New York by the
+American Fur Company to buy up the two other companies, in which he
+succeeded.[164] Some of the members of these companies were received
+into the American Company, and thus the whole of the very extensive
+fur trade was concentrated in the hands of that company, and remains
+so up to this moment. Some individuals and small associations have
+since made frequent attempts to carry on the trade in the Indian
+territory and the Rocky Mountains,[165] but have always been obliged
+to give way to the powerful and wealthy company, which has now spread
+its commercial stations over a great part of the interior of North
+America, and continues to extend them more and more.[166]
+
+In British North America, two great fur companies were founded at an
+earlier period--the North-west, and the Hudson's Bay Company, which
+for a long time were at open war with each other, but afterwards
+joined, and still exist under the name of the Hudson's Bay
+Company.[167] To the north of the Missouri on the borders of British
+North America, they are rivals of the American Company, and both
+parties endeavour to draw over the Indians to their side. But as no
+white settlers have yet penetrated to those remote and desolate
+regions, the American Company rules _there_ alone, by its commercial
+stations and its numerous servants, the goods with which they carry on
+the trade having become necessary even to the most dangerous Indian
+tribes; for this reason foreign travellers cannot expect to succeed in
+their enterprises without the consent and assistance of this
+company.[168]
+
+At St. Louis I had become acquainted with several very interesting
+persons; Major Ofallon, having been formerly agent of the Indian
+nations on the Missouri, was well acquainted with the country, and
+assisted me with his advice, as well as Major Dougherty,[169] now
+agent for the nations of the Pawnees, Otos, and the Joways: they both
+advised me, as the only practicable means of visiting those countries
+with safety, to join the American Fur Company, and to obtain from the
+[pg. 111] directors a passage on board their steam-boat. Fully
+appreciating the value of this counsel, I endeavoured to become
+acquainted with Mr. Pierre Chouteau, who directed the affairs of the
+company at St. Louis, and with Mr. Mc Kenzie, who usually lived on the
+Upper Missouri, and was now on the point of proceeding on board the
+steamer to Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. Both
+gentlemen received me with great politeness, and readily acceded to my
+request.[170]
+
+Our necessaries for this journey,[171] and many small articles for
+bartering with the Indians, were procured and placed on board the
+Yellow Stone steamer. General Clarke favoured me with his advice, as
+well as several other gentlemen, particularly Major Pilcher,[172] who
+had penetrated far into the Indian territory to the Rocky Mountains,
+while he was a member of the Missouri Fur Company; likewise Messrs.
+Sanford and Bean, the former of whom was agent for the Crows, Mandans,
+Assiniboines, Manitaries and Blackfeet, and the latter for the Puncas
+and Sioux.[173] All these persons, who were well acquainted with the
+Indian territory, were to accompany us up the Missouri to their
+several stations. Major Ofallon, whom we visited at his pleasant
+country seat, near St. Louis, had the kindness to furnish me with the
+map of the course of the Missouri, by Lewis and Clarke, on a large
+scale.[174] We found at his house an interesting collection of Indian
+articles, and a great number of Indian scenes by Catlin, a painter
+from New York, who had travelled in 1831 to Fort Union.
+
+Before we left St. Louis, another deputation of Saukie Indians arrived
+from the Lower Missouri, who held councils with General Clarke. They
+came down the Missouri in long double canoes. Among them were several
+very strong, robust men, who, when they were in liquor, were
+dreadfully savage and wild. One of their most distinguished warriors,
+who was remarkable for a curved nose, exactly such as we see in the
+Mexican sculptures, suffered severely from consumption; his family
+seemed much concerned about him; the women sat around him and
+lamented. The time passed rapidly in observing these interesting
+people, till the 10th of April, which was the day fixed for our
+departure.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[105] The "Napoleon" (100 tons) was built at Pittsburg in 1831, and
+the "Conveyance" (90 tons) at Cincinnati in the same year.--ED.
+
+[106] For the Shawnee Indians and Shawneetown, see Croghan's
+_Journals_, in our volume i, p. 138, note 108.
+
+The reference is to Dr. Jedidiah Morse (1761-1826), _Report to
+Secretary of War on Indian Affairs_ (New Haven, 1822), the result of a
+tour among the Western tribes in 1820.--ED.
+
+[107] Saline Creek (or River), formed by the union of the North and
+South Forks in Gallatin County, Illinois, flows southeast and enters
+the Ohio River about ten miles below Shawneetown. For a short
+statement on salt deposits, see James's _Long's Expedition_, in our
+volume xiv, p. 58, note 11.--ED.
+
+[108] The "Paragon" (90 tons) was constructed at Cincinnati in
+1829.--ED.
+
+[109] Battery Rock is twelve miles below Shawneetown.--ED.
+
+[110] See Plate 7, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. See also
+Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, p. 273, note 180.--ED.
+
+[111] For Golconda consult Woods's _English Prairie_, in our volume x,
+p. 327, note 77. Sister's Island, a narrow strip a mile in length,
+lies twenty miles below Elizabethtown, Illinois. Smithland is the
+county seat of Livingston County, Kentucky, immediately below the
+mouth of the Cumberland.--ED.
+
+[112] Paducah, the seat of McCracken County, Kentucky, and forty-eight
+miles above Cairo, was laid out in 1827 and named from a well-known
+Indian chief. It is a large shipping place and in 1900 had a
+population of 12,797. It is the seat of Paducah University.
+
+The book here referred to is Samuel Cumings' _Western Pilot,
+containing Charts of the Ohio River and of the Mississippi from the
+Mouth of the Missouri to the Gulf of Mexico, accompanied with
+Directions for navigating the same, and a Gazetteer or Description of
+Towns on their Banks, Tributary Streams, etc., also a variety of
+Matter interesting to Travelers and all concerned in the Navigation of
+these Rivers_ (Cincinnati, 1828, 1829, 1834).
+
+For a brief sketch of Fort Massac, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our
+volume iii, p. 73, note 139.--ED.
+
+[113] Several fruitless attempts were made to establish a city at the
+confluence of the two rivers. Trinity, long time a rival of Cairo, was
+first settled in 1817 at Cache River. Shortly afterwards Shadrach
+Bond, John Comyges, and others entered a land claim for eighteen
+hundred acres between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers and incorporated
+it as the City and Bank of Cairo. At Comyges's death, however, the
+claim was allowed to lapse. In the same year William Bird occupied
+three hundred and sixty acres at the extreme point of the peninsula,
+and named his proposed city Bird's Point. A few houses were built; but
+during the War of Secession were removed to the Missouri side. In 1828
+John and Thompson Bird built the first houses on the present site of
+Cairo. Here boats were long accustomed to stop for supplies. In 1835,
+Sidney Breeze, Baker Gilbert, and others re-entered the forfeited land
+of the City and Bank of Cairo, and two years later obtained its
+incorporation as Cairo City and Canal Company. Speculation followed;
+the company purchased at a high price ten thousand acres, comprising
+all the territory between the Ohio, Mississippi, and Cache rivers,
+including Bird's Point. Plans for extensive improvements were made. D.
+B. Holbrook, one of the leading promoters, sold in Europe two million
+dollars in bonds. Sharp reverses followed and Cairo was not
+incorporated as a city until 1858.--ED.
+
+[114] The steamboat "O'Connell" was built at Pittsburg in 1833.--ED.
+
+[115] Commerce, on the Missouri side thirty miles above Cairo, was a
+trading post, as early as 1803. It was laid out in 1822, incorporated
+in 1857, and made the seat of Scott County in 1864. See Campbell,
+_Gazetteer of Missouri_ (St. Louis, 1875).--ED.
+
+[116] For the early history of Cape Girardeau, see A. Michaux's
+_Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 80, note 154. Devil's Island, less
+than three miles in length, is near the Illinois side four miles above
+Cape Girardeau. Bainbridge, Missouri, twelve miles above the town of
+Cape Girardeau, was on the road from Kentucky and Illinois to the
+White River and Arkansas. Hamburg (not Harrisburg), in Calhoun County,
+Illinois, is directly across the river from Bainbridge, and at the
+time of Maximilian's visit was a new landing. The Devil's Tea Table is
+on the Missouri side eighteen miles above Cape Girardeau. For more
+particulars concerning the places between St. Louis and the mouth of
+the Ohio, see Flagg's _Far West_, in our volume xxvi, pp. 50-83
+(original pagination), and footnotes to the same.--ED.
+
+[117] See Plate 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[118] It is well known that the whole tract contains shell limestone.
+Mr. Lesueur has made important collections of this kind on the Tower
+Rock at Vicksburg, Natchez, and other places on the banks of the
+Mississippi, of part of which he has made descriptions and drawings.
+He has accurately stated the several strata, with the shells of
+animals and fishbones occurring in them. The shells are very friable
+when taken out of the rock--afterwards, and especially if washed in
+water, they are firmer. Mr. Lesueur has sent large collections of
+these things to France.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[119] St. Mary's River rises in Perry County, Illinois, and enters the
+Mississippi six miles below the mouth of the Kaskaskia. Chester is the
+seat of Randolph County, seventy-six miles below St. Louis. Large
+quantities of bituminous coal and building stone are in the vicinity.
+For the early history of Kaskaskia, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our
+volume iii, p. 69, note 132.--ED.
+
+[120] An account of the founding of Ste. Genevieve is given in
+Cuming's _Tour_ in our volume iv, p. 266, note 174.--ED.
+
+[121] The mines here referred to are the _Mine La Mothe_ and the _Mine
+a Burton_; a more extended account of these will be given in Flagg's
+_Far West_, in our volume xxvi.--ED.
+
+[122] For the history of Fort Chartres, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in
+our volume iii, p. 71, note 136.--ED.
+
+[123] See opposite page for formations of limestone rocks.--ED.
+
+[124] Herculaneum is a small village in Jefferson County, Missouri, at
+the mouth of Joachim Creek, about twenty-eight miles below St. Louis,
+and a few miles above the hamlet of Selena. Herculaneum was laid out
+in 1808 by Moses Austin and S. Hammond, and subsequently was made the
+seat of Jefferson County.--ED.
+
+[125] Platteen (commonly spelled Plattin) Creek is a small stream
+rising in the southern part of Jefferson County, flowing north, and
+emptying into the Mississippi at the northern extremity of the county,
+four and a half miles below Herculaneum.
+
+The Maramec (often pronounced and written Merrimac) River finds its
+source in Dent County, Missouri, and flowing northeast joins the
+Mississippi nineteen miles below St. Louis. Its estimated length is a
+hundred and fifty miles, draining a territory rich in mines of copper,
+iron, and lead.--ED.
+
+[126] For an account of Jefferson Barracks, see Townsend's
+_Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 122, note 2.
+
+Carondelet, named for Baron Carondelet, Spanish governor of Louisiana
+in 1791, was formerly a village in St. Louis County, Missouri; but in
+1860 it was merged with the First Ward of St. Louis, under the name of
+South St. Louis.
+
+For Cahokia, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 70,
+note 135.--ED.
+
+[127] For the early history of St. Louis, see A. Michaux's _Travels_,
+in our volume iii, p. 71, note 138. Probably the author here intends
+Auguste Chouteau, stepson of Laclede, founder of the city--for the
+former consult our volume xvi, p. 275, note 127.--ED.
+
+[128] For a brief sketch of General William Clark, see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, in our volume v, p. 254, note 143; for a more extended
+notice, consult Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition_ (New York, 1905), introduction. This is an interesting
+glimpse of General Clark in the professional duties of his later
+life.--ED.
+
+[129] For the early history and the alliance of the Sauk and Foxes,
+see J. Long's _Voyages_, in our volume ii, p. 185, note 85. Black Hawk
+and his fellow prisoners were being kept as hostages for the good
+behavior of the remainder of the tribe, after the war of 1832. See
+Thwaites, "Black Hawk War," in _How George Rogers Clark won the
+Northwest_ (Chicago, 1903), pp. 116-200; and _Treaties between the
+United States of America and the several Indian Tribes_ (Washington,
+1837), pp. 508-510. Soon after Maximilian's visit, Black Hawk was sent
+on a tour to the East, in order that he might appreciate the resources
+and power of the American people.--ED.
+
+[130] Keokuk (Watchful Fox) was not a chieftain by birth, but by his
+address and eloquence raised himself to a prominent place in the
+allied Sauk and Fox tribes. Born at Saukenuk about 1780, he was
+younger than Black Hawk, and early took opposition to his policy.
+Keokuk was for peace and the American alliance, and about 1826 removed
+his division of the tribe across the Mississippi to a village
+southwest of the present Muscatine, Iowa. During the Black Hawk War he
+kept a large portion of the tribe neutral, and at its close was
+recognized by the federal government as head-chief of the tribe. In
+1836 a large tract of Iowa land was ceded by the Indians to the
+federal government, whereupon the tribesmen removed to Kansas. Keokuk
+visited Washington several times, notably in 1837, when he made
+addresses from the platform of Catlin's museum. Catlin painted his
+portrait in the full garb of an Indian councillor, and daguerreotypes
+of him also exist. His features were of a Caucasian type, for his
+father was part French. Keokuk died in Kansas in 1848; in 1883 his
+remains were removed to Keokuk, Iowa. It is not true that in person
+Keokuk surrendered Black Hawk to the American authorities. Consult on
+the capture of the latter, _Wisconsin Historical Collections_, v, p.
+293; viii, p. 316.--ED.
+
+[131] In confirmation of the similarity of the Americans to each
+other, we may quote the authority of Humboldt, and other travellers.
+(See Essay on the Political State of New Spain, vol. i. p. 115). Dr.
+Meyen gives a figure of a Peruvian Mummy (N. Acta Acad. Caes. Leop.
+Car. I. xvi. Suppl. 1. Tab. 1), which perfectly expresses the
+character of the North American Indians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[132] See Meyen, Loc. cit. p. 45.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[133] There are numerous tribes in North America, also, among whom the
+aquiline nose is very rare. This is certified, with respect to the
+Chippeways, in Major Long's account of his journey to St. Peter's
+River; and Captain Bonneville says that the people to the east of the
+Rocky Mountains have, in general, aquiline noses, but that the tribes
+to the west of those mountains, mostly straight or flat noses. (See
+Washington Irving's Adventures of Captain Bonneville, p.
+221.)--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[134] N. Bossu, a French officer who in 1750 came with troops to
+Louisiana. He remained about twelve years in the country, and
+published _Nouveaux Voyages aux Indes occidentales_ (Paris, 1768), an
+English translation of which appeared in 1771.
+
+For the fate of the Natchez, consult Nuttall's _Journal_, in our
+volume xiii, p. 303, note 226.
+
+The Botocudo are a Tapuyan tribe of southeastern Brazil.--ED.
+
+[135] For Baron von Humboldt, see our volume xviii, p. 345, note 136.
+
+Franz Julius Ferdinand Meyen was a German botanist who voyaged around
+the world in 1830-32. Upon his return he was called to a chair at
+Berlin, but died prematurely in 1840 at the age of thirty-eight. He
+published many memoirs in scientific journals, and in 1834-35 an
+account of his world-wide voyage.--ED.
+
+[136] Louis Isidore Duperrey, a French naval officer (1786-1865),
+entered the navy in 1802. Soon afterwards he made two long voyages
+around the world, and published much hydrographic and scientific
+matter. In 1842 he was chosen member of the French Academy of
+Sciences.--ED.
+
+[137] Loc. cit. p. 18.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[138] Loc. cit. p. 117.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[139] For Zebulon M. Pike, see Evans's _Pedestrious Tour_, in our
+volume viii, p. 280, note 122.--ED.
+
+[140] Loc. cit., vol. i. p. 3.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[141] Warden, Loc. cit., part ii. plate x. fig. 4.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Referring to D. B. Warden, _Recherches sur les
+Antiquities de l'Amerique Septentrionale_. The stream where the
+antique vase was found, was Caney Fork of Cumberland, in central
+Tennessee.
+
+[142] The Foxes call this ornament kateueikunn. I have given a figure
+of it, in the Plate of utensils and arms.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See Plate 81, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.
+
+[143] See Plate 36, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+Watapinat, a Fox Indian, is cited as being here portrayed. This
+drawing could not, however, be engraved; and so another Musquake (Fox)
+Indian, Wakassasse was pictured.--MAXIMILIAN (in German edition).
+
+
+[144] These small shell cylinders are known to be cut out of the
+shells of the _Venus mercenaria_, and strung on threads; they are
+arranged blue and white alternately. All the northern and eastern
+nations, in the neighbourhood of the great lakes, and even the tribes
+on the Lower Missouri, use this ornament, but not those on the Upper
+Missouri. On this subject see Blumenbach, Handbuch der Naturgeschichte,
+12 ed., p. 359, 385.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[145] An iron battle-axe, made by the whites, which has a pipe bowl at
+the back, the handle being bored through, to serve as tube to the
+pipe.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[146] This instrument is the only weapon of the Indians which has lost
+something of its original character, since the merchants have had them
+manufactured with a steel point, as an article of trade with the
+Indians. A specimen of the original form is found in Pennant's "Arctic
+Zoology," Plate VI., the middle figure.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[147] See Plate 81, figure 4, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[148] See the same Plate, figure 3.--ED.
+
+[149] In 1816, in order to control the neighboring territory, Fort
+Armstrong was erected on Rock Island. For many years Thomas Forsyth
+was Indian agent to the Sauk and Fox tribe at this place, and by many
+it was thought that had he not been removed the Black Hawk War might
+have been prevented. Felix St. Vrain, his successor, was slain at the
+outset of that uprising (1832). At the time of Maximilian's journey,
+W. S. Davenport was agent at Fort Armstrong.
+
+This treaty referred to was made in 1804 at St. Louis, by Governor
+William H. Harrison. It was not ratified, however, until January,
+1805. It was the inciting cause of the Black Hawk War. See Thwaites,
+_op. cit._ in note 127, _ante_, pp. 116-126.--ED.
+
+[150] For this reference see note 104, _ante_, p. 201.--ED.
+
+[151] See Thwaites, "Early Lead Mining on the Mississippi," in _How
+George Rogers Clark won the Northwest_, pp. 299-332.--ED.
+
+[152] Portions of this collection are still in possession of Clark's
+descendants; see Thwaites, "Newly Discovered Records of Lewis and
+Clark," in _Scribner's Magazine_, xxxv, pp. 685-700.--ED.
+
+[153] The "Warrior," built at Pittsburg in 1832, was rated at 110
+tons. It was used during the Black Hawk War to convey federal
+supplies, and took effective part in the battle of Bad Axe, by which
+Black Hawk's band was nearly annihilated. See J. H. Fonda's
+"Reminiscences," in _Wisconsin Historical Collections_, v, pp.
+261-264.--ED.
+
+[154] General Henry Atkinson was born in North Carolina in 1782. In
+1808 he entered the regular army as captain, mounting through various
+grades to that of brigadier-general (1821). He was connected with the
+Yellowstone expeditions of 1819 and 1825, but perhaps his most
+important service was as leader of the federal troops in the Black
+Hawk War, wherein he was called "White Beaver" by the Indians. At its
+close he took command of Jefferson Barracks, where he died in
+1842.--ED.
+
+[155] See Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 123, note 3,
+for a brief sketch of Black Hawk. His portrait was painted by Catlin
+at Jefferson Barracks, and again by R. M. Sully at Fortress Monroe.
+The latter canvas is in the museum of the Wisconsin Historical
+Society.--ED.
+
+[156] Winnebago Prophet, more commonly known as White Cloud (a
+translation of his Indian name Wabokieshiek), was the "medicine man"
+of Black Hawk's revolt. He was Winnebago on his mother's side, and had
+a village on Rock River, forty miles above Rock Island--the present
+Prophetstown, Illinois. After the war he was captured, and shared
+Black Hawk's imprisonment, dying among the Winnebago about 1841. His
+portrait was painted by Catlin at Jefferson Barracks, and again at
+Fortress Monroe by R. M. Sully--the latter, in the museum of the
+Wisconsin Historical Society, portrays a cunning, rather low type of
+face, stronger and more subtle than that of Black Hawk.--ED.
+
+[157] For Captain Stewart, see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume
+xxi, p. 197, note 42.--ED.
+
+[158] For the building and first voyages of the "Yellowstone" see our
+volume xxi, p. 46, note 26 (Wyeth).--ED.
+
+[159] For the Mackinac Company see Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, our
+volume vii, pp. 34, 35--ED.
+
+[160] See Washington Irving's Astoria.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[161] Astor's company had originally been organized in 1808. After
+absorbing the Mackinac Company it was until 1816 known as the South
+West Company, when a re-organization occurred, resulting in the
+American Fur Company. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp. 309-311. The
+Columbia River enterprise is narrated in our volumes vi and vii.--ED.
+
+[162] The Missouri Fur Company was organized (1808) soon after the
+return of the Lewis and Clark expedition, with Clark, a brother of
+Lewis, and several well-known merchants of Illinois and St. Louis as
+members. Its chief trader, later the president, was Manuel Lisa. After
+his death in 1820 the fortunes of the company declined.
+
+By the French Company Maximilian intends a firm composed of Papin,
+Cerre, and Picotte, which in 1830 sold out to the American Fur
+Company. Its career was but about three years long.--ED.
+
+[163] The Columbia Fur Company was organized after the consolidation
+of the British companies (1821) had thrown a number of enterprising
+Scotch and Canadian traders out of employment. Its leading spirits
+were Kenneth McKenzie, William Laidlaw, and Daniel Lamont. Organized
+to trade within the boundaries of the United States, it was
+technically known as Tilton and Company, of New York. The chief
+outfitting post was built upon Lake Traverse, Minnesota, whence
+passage to the upper Missouri was quickly secured. The operations of
+this company harassed the American Fur Company, which in 1827 entered
+into a combination with the Columbia, thus securing control of the
+upper Missouri trade. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp.
+323-327.--ED.
+
+[164] For Ramsay Crooks, see our volume v, p. 36, note 3.--ED.
+
+[165] The Rocky Mountain Fur Company--first under General William H.
+Ashley, later under the Sublettes, Thomas Fitzpatrick, etc.--absorbed
+a large proportion of the Western fur-trade in the decade before
+Maximilian arrived in St. Louis. It was one of their caravans that
+Captain Stewart urged the prince to accompany. Consult our volume xxi,
+for the operations of this corporation.--ED.
+
+[166] Mr. Schoolcraft, in his latest journey to Itasca Lake (page 35),
+gives a short history of the fur trade, which, in many places, has
+already fallen into entire decay; for instance, on Lake St. Croix
+(page 141), if the inhabitants of those parts do not take to
+agriculture, they must emigrate or starve.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[167] For the early history of the Hudson's Bay and North West
+companies see preface to J. Long's _Voyages_, in our volume ii.--ED.
+
+[168] The "Upper Missouri Outfit" branch of the American Fur Company
+controlled the upper Missouri and its tributaries, from the date of
+consolidation with the Columbia Company (1827) until the advance of
+emigration and settlement made fur-trapping unprofitable.--ED.
+
+[169] For Major Benjamin O'Fallon and John Dougherty, see Faux's
+_Journal_ in our volume xii, p. 49, note 127, and James's _Long's
+Expedition_, in our volume xiv, p. 126, note 92.--ED.
+
+[170] Pierre Chouteau, jr., son of the elder of that name (for whom
+see our volume xvi, p. 275, note 127), was born at St. Louis, January
+19, 1789; among his family he was known as "Cadet." Early evincing
+unusual talents as a trader, he entered his father's business at the
+age of sixteen. The years 1806-08 he spent at the lead mines with
+Julien Dubuque, and in 1809 made his first fur-trade voyage to the
+upper Missouri, whose commercial destinies he was so long to control.
+In 1813 he formed a partnership on his own account with Bartholomew
+Berthold, which operated independently until they were bought out by
+the American Fur Company, for whom Chouteau became local manager.
+Later he extended his financial operations to New York, and became one
+of the moneyed princes of that city, although dying in St. Louis in
+1865. His public services were chiefly local, but he served in the
+state constitutional convention of 1820. He was interested in
+scientific pursuits, and ready to assist travellers bound on such
+errands.
+
+For Kenneth McKenzie see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 45,
+note 25. The winter of 1834-35 McKenzie paid a visit to Prince
+Maximilian in his German home, where he was received with much
+hospitality and brought news to his host of recent affairs on the
+Missouri, which the latter reports in the appendix to the German
+edition of his work, ii, p. 616.--ED.
+
+[171] Especially provisions, coffee, sugar, brandy, candles, fine
+gunpowder, shot of every kind, colours, paper, some books,
+&c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[172] For Joshua Pilcher, see our volume xiv, p. 269, note 193.--ED.
+
+[173] Major John F. A. Sanford was a native of Winchester, Virginia.
+Upon appointment to an Indian sub-agency, he came west, and (1827-34)
+lived among the Mandans; later (1837), he was agent at Fort Gibson. He
+married Emilie Chouteau, daughter of Pierre, jr. Subsequently becoming
+interested in American Fur Company affairs, he (about 1838) removed to
+New York as its representative.
+
+Jonathan L. Bean, of Pennsylvania, was government sub-agent (1827-34)
+for the Sioux.--ED.
+
+[174] Major Benjamin O'Fallon was a nephew of William Clark, and the
+map of the upper Missouri, which he furnished to Maximilian, was a
+manuscript copy of an original map by the hand of the famous explorer.
+Inquiry of the reigning prince of Wied-Neuwied elicits the following
+information: "Major O'Fallon made a present to the prince in the year
+1833, at the beginning of his journey of that year, of a copy of this
+chart, which the prince [Maximilian] during his journey completed and
+supplied its deficiencies. This copy, a little atlas of thirty-seven
+leaves, is in the archives here. Upon one leaf, in the handwriting of
+Prince Max, is the following inscription: 'I received this exact copy
+of the original by the goodness of the late Indian agent, Major
+O'Fallon.'" See Thwaites' _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
+Expedition_, introduction, concerning Clark's maps and the extant
+originals.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+JOURNEY FROM ST. LOUIS TO THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH, OR TO THE
+BORDERS OF THE SETTLEMENT, FROM THE 10TH TO THE 22ND OF APRIL
+
+   Departure from St. Louis--The Engages, or Voyageurs--St.
+   Charles--Gasconade River--Osage River--Jefferson City--Boonville
+   and Franklin--Arrow Rock--Chariton--Grand River--Battle of the
+   Missouri Indians--Fire Prairie--Dangerous place and situation of
+   the vessel--Fort Osage--The Osages--Liberty--Quicksands--Konzas
+   River--Boundary of the United States--The Konzas
+   Indians--Pilcher's Expeditions--Little Platte River--Dwelling of
+   the Joways--Diamond Island--Cantonment of Leavenworth.
+
+
+On the 10th of April, at eleven o'clock, all our company having
+collected, the Yellow Stone left St. Louis; Mr. Pierre Chouteau, and
+several ladies of his family, accompanied us to St. Charles.[175] Some
+guns were fired, as a signal, on our departure, on which numbers of
+the inhabitants assembled on the shore, among them the Saukies and
+some half-civilized Kikapoo Indians. Mr. Bodmer made some interesting
+sketches of the former, of which the plate gives a specimen.[176]
+There were about 100 persons on board the Yellow Stone, most of whom
+were those called _engages_, or _voyageurs_, who are the lowest class
+of servants of the Fur Company. Most of them are French Canadians, or
+descendants of the French settlers on the Mississippi and Missouri.
+
+The appearance of the river above St. Louis did not differ from that
+already described. The red-bud (_Cercis Canadensis_) appeared as
+underwood in the forests, covered with dark red blossoms before the
+appearance of the leaves, which form red stripes along the shore, and
+make a pleasing contrast with the young, bright green leaves of the
+willows. At noon, Reaumur's thermometer on board was at +17-1/2 deg.
+We had soon passed the 16-1/2 miles to the mouth of the Missouri,[177]
+but before we entered it, we lay to, on the Illinois side, to take in
+wood. The Yellow Stone entered [pg. 113] the Missouri, which, at its
+mouth, is about the same breadth as the Mississippi at this place. In
+the afternoon we reached, on the S. W. side, Belle Fontaine, a rather
+decayed building belonging to the military station established, in
+1803, against the Indians, but which was subsequently abandoned. The
+current of the river runs here at the rate of five miles an hour; on
+the left bank there is a chain of calcareous hills with the same
+singular forms of towers, &c. as on the Mississippi. The bushes of
+wild plums were covered with snow-white blossoms, and those of the
+_Cercis Canadensis_, with their red flowers; and I could not help
+remarking that, in this country, most of the trees and bushes have
+their flowers before their leaves. On the beach the inhabitants had
+fixed fishing rods, which they examined, from time to time, and we saw
+them take up a large cat-fish. Towards evening the lofty plane trees,
+with their white branches, were beautifully tinged with the setting
+sun. We passed several islands, which showed us the usual formation of
+these accumulations of sand, which arise rapidly, and are often as
+rapidly destroyed. Against the stream they generally have a naked,
+sandy point, with layers of thick, heavy timber; young willows grow
+first, then poplars, and, lastly, hard timber. In many places in the
+forests, and between the willows, we observed the high rushes
+(_Equisetum hyemale_) which are said to be injurious to the horses,
+unless salt is given them with it.
+
+Next morning we reached St. Charles, on the N. E. shore, one of the
+oldest French settlements on the Missouri, consisting of about 300
+houses, where the massive church, with its low tower, has a very good
+appearance. The environs of this scattered village are rather bare,
+but there were many European fruit trees in blossom. Most of the
+houses are built of wood, but a modern part of the place is of brick.
+On an eminence rising behind it, stands an old stone tower, which
+formerly served as a defence against the Indians. We lay to, opposite
+St. Charles, where Messrs. Mc Kenzie and Dougherty joined us, and M.
+Chouteau and his family took leave, and returned to St. Louis. After
+stopping a few hours, we continued our voyage till a storm of wind
+filled the air with sand, from the sand banks, and compelled us to
+stop after twelve o'clock, above the whirlpool, called Remoux a
+Baguette;[178] towards dark, however, we reached Isle au Bon Homme, in
+the vicinity of which we passed the night. On the 12th of April, the
+original forms of the calcareous rocks again appeared, with the red
+cedar, as usual, growing upon them. The hills were covered with
+forests, where many trees were putting forth leaves, especially the
+very delicate green foliage of the sugar maple. A cavern at this place
+is called the Tavern Rock (Taverne de Montardis), and on both sides of
+the river were numerous snags, which often prove dangerous to vessels.
+Near some habitations the European peach trees were in blossom; among
+the strange forms of the rocks, I saw one flattened at the top like a
+table, on a thin stem, and quite isolated. The country is here pretty
+well peopled, and game is rather rare in the forests, at least we were
+told that stags, bears, and wild turkeys were not often found there.
+The people settle on the eminences, rather than below on the bank of
+the river, where the air is [pg. 114] said to be less salubrious. The
+inundations of the river form marshes on the low grounds, which, being
+protected from the sun by the surrounding trees, produce fevers.
+Flint, in his History and Geography of the Mississippi Valley,[179]
+gives a very good account of the climate and diseases of this country.
+We passed Isle and Riviere au Boeuf, as well as the village of
+Pinkney;[180] observed very picturesque rocky scenes, climbing plants,
+which twined round overthrown broken trunks of trees, and gloomy
+ravines, which were now full of the bright green young leaves that
+were everywhere sprouting forth. The Yellow Stone had several times
+struck against submerged trunks of trees, but it was purposely built
+very strong, for such dangerous voyages. This was its third voyage up
+the Missouri. The Fur Company possess another steamer called the
+Assiniboin which had left St. Louis to go up the Missouri before
+us.[181] At night-fall we lay to on the right bank, where a cheerful
+fire of large logs was soon made, round which our _engages_ assembled
+and chatted incessantly in French. We spent part of the night with
+Messrs. Mc Kenzie, Dougherty, and Sanford, under the canopy of the
+starry heavens, while a couple of clarionets, on board the vessel,
+played Scotch airs and the famous "Yankee-doodle."
+
+On the morning of the 13th of April, the weather was serene and cool,
+the thermometer, at eight in the morning, +5 deg. Reaum., and at noon,
++9 deg. We had lain to, for the night, near Otter Island,[182] and soon
+saw before us the country about Gasconade River. There were extensive
+sand banks on the left hand, picturesque hills, many pleasing
+gradations of tint in the forests; an island, on the surface of which
+we distinctly saw the layer of black mould, six feet thick, with sand
+beneath it; further from the left bank a chain of hills, valleys, and
+eminences, covered with high trees, which were just beginning to put
+forth leaves, all illumined by the beams of the brightest morning sun.
+Near the Gasconade, where we took in wood, many interesting plants were
+in blossom. The Gasconade, which is an inconsiderable river, and rises
+not far from the source of the Merrimack, in the State of Missouri,
+expands behind a high, bold eminence, the summit of which is covered
+with rocks and red cedars. The hills near it are frequently covered
+with the white and the yellow pine, which supply St. Louis with boards
+and timber for building. Its mouth, which is reckoned to be 100 miles
+from that of the Missouri, is picturesquely situated in a lofty forest.
+Near it, our hunters fired unsuccessfully at a flock of wild turkeys.
+We soon passed the village of Portland; then the mouth of Little-Au-Vase
+Creek, where we observed, in the woods, the young leaves of the
+buck-eye trees (_Pavia_) which grew in great abundance.[183] A little
+further on, the Osage River appears between wooded banks: it is a
+small stream, in which, according to Warden, many soft-shelled
+tortoises are found: we came then to Cote-Sans-Dessein, an old French
+settlement of six or eight houses, celebrated for the brave defence
+made by a few men against a numerous body of Indians. It must have
+been formerly much more considerable, since Brackenridge calls it a
+beautiful place.[184] The river has destroyed it, and it is now quite
+insignificant. Opposite to it, on the left bank, further up the
+country, there [pg. 115] are many originally French families, and
+half-breeds, descendants of the Osage Indians, who formerly dwelt in
+these parts. While Mr. Bennett, the master of our vessel, landed to
+visit his family, who lived here, we botanized on the opposite
+bank, where oaks of many kinds were in blossom, and where the
+Monocotyledonous plant is found, which is called here Adam and Eve.
+Its roots consist of two bulbs joined together, of which it is said
+that, when thrown into the water, one swims and the other sinks. It is
+held to be a good cure for wounds. The flower was just beginning to
+appear.
+
+From Cote-Sans-Dessein, you soon come to Jefferson City, on the south
+bank of the Missouri, the capital, as it is called of the State of
+Missouri, where the governor resides.[185] It is at present only a
+village, with a couple of short streets, and some detached buildings
+on the bank of the river. The governor's house is in front, on the top
+of the bank, and is a plain brick building of moderate size. The
+gentle eminences, on which the place was built about ten years ago,
+are now traversed by fences, and the stumps of the felled trees are
+everywhere seen.
+
+The morning of the 14th of April was clear but cool; at 8 o'clock +8 deg.,
+a thick mist rising from the river. On a wooded eminence, on the left
+hand, at some distance from the bank, is a high, isolated rock, which
+stands like a tower in the forest. Major Dougherty, once passing this
+place with some Joway Indians, was told by them, that there was a
+tradition among their ancestors, that this rock was formed of the dung
+of a race of bisons, which lived in heaven, but they themselves no
+longer believed this fable. The Manito rocks, two isolated blocks,
+about fifty feet high, which have been mentioned by many travellers,
+appear below, on the bank of the river. They are mentioned in the
+account of Major Long's Expedition, which contains much information
+respecting the Missouri, as far as Council Bluff, to which I refer. We
+learn from that work, that almost all these calcareous rocks of the
+Missouri contain organic remains, encrinites, &c. On the rocks, which
+are divided by ravines into broad rounded shapes, like towers, the
+Virginia red cedar grows, and falcons build their nests. We see here
+on the rocky walls red spots, strokes and figures, remaining from the
+times when the Indians dwelt here: two towering overhanging rocks, in
+which there are several caves, put me in mind of the ruins of the
+castle of Heidelburg. Just before dinner we reached Rockport, a
+village founded two years ago, on the Manito River, six miles up which
+river Columbia is situated.[186] Near this place there are again many
+red figures on the rocky walls, among others that of a man with
+uplifted arms; not thirty years have elapsed since this whole country
+was in the possession of the Indians. After passing Manito and Bonne
+Femme Creek, we stopped at the village of Boonville on the left bank,
+opposite which is Old Franklin.[187] As this place was threatened by
+the river, and is besides in an unhealthy situation, the people
+founded New Franklin, rather further inland, now a thriving village,
+near which salt springs have been discovered. We afterwards passed the
+mouth of La Mine River, which is about equal to the Lahn, and lay to
+for the night at Arrow Rock (Pierre a fleche), a chain in which
+[pg. 116] flint is found, of which the Indians formerly made the heads
+of their arrows. In a ravine, before Arrow Rock Hill, there is a new
+village, which was called New Philadelphia, though the inhabitants did
+not approve of this name.[188]
+
+On the following morning (April 15th), proceeding on our voyage, we
+passed little Arrow Rock, and found a very fertile and rather populous
+country. Near the mouth of Chariton River, there are several islands,
+covered with willows, poplar, and hard timber. The river here makes a
+considerable bend; the numerous sand banks did not permit us to
+proceed in a direct line, but compelled us to take the narrow channel,
+at the outer edge of the bend, and to take soundings continually,
+being in great danger of striking against the snags. Some parts of the
+banks were rent in a remarkable manner by the rapid stream, when the
+water was high. In many places, large masses, fifteen or eighteen feet
+in height, had sunk down, with poplars thirty or forty feet high, as
+well as entire fields of maize, and piles of timber, which form
+together a wild scene of devastation, to which the broken poplars not
+a little contributed.
+
+The drift wood on the sand bank, consisting of the trunks of large
+timber trees, forms a scene characteristic of the North American
+rivers; at least I saw nothing like it in Brazil, where most of the
+rivers rise in the primeval mountains, or flow through more solid
+ground. On the banks which we now passed, the drifted trunks of trees
+were in many places already covered with sand; a border of willows and
+poplars was before the forest, and it is among these willow bushes
+that the Indians usually lie in ambush, when they intend to attack
+those who tow their vessels up the river by long ropes. At five
+o'clock in the afternoon we reached the mouth of Grand River, which
+was then very shallow, almost as broad as the Wabash. The Yellow Stone
+nearly run aground at the mouth of this river, and stirred up the sand
+so as to discolour the water. The Joway Indians dwelt on the Grand
+River till 1827, when they removed to Little Platte River.[189] They
+continue, however, like the Saukies and Foxes, to hunt in the prairies
+at its source, where buffaloes, elks, and stags, are said to be still
+pretty numerous. The first of these Indians called the Grand River,
+Nischna-Honja; and the Missouri, Nischna-Dja:--Ni, in their language,
+means water, and Nischna, the river.[190]
+
+We lay to, for the night, beyond Waconda Creek.[191] Our hunters
+dispersed into the neighbouring woods and plantations, but they only
+shot some parrots. On the 16th, in the morning, we had, on the left
+bank, undulating hills, thinly covered with trees, and on the bank
+were strata of limestone. Here is the mouth of the stream, the Bonnet
+de Boeuf, which, doubtless, has its name from the caps, with ox
+horns, which the Indians, who formerly dwelt here, wore in their
+dances. Some highly dangerous submerged snags left only a very narrow
+channel open for our vessel. At ten [pg. 117] o'clock we came to some
+excessively dangerous parts, where our vessel frequently struck, and
+we were obliged to stop the engine, and to push by poles. The vessel
+stuck fast in the sand, and it was necessary to fasten it to the trees
+on the bank till it could be got afloat again. At this point the great
+forests begin to be interrupted by open places, or prairies, and we
+were at the part called Fox Prairie, where the Saukie and Fox Indians,
+and, perhaps, some other nations,[192] formerly attacked, and nearly
+extirpated the tribe of the Missouris. The remainder of the people
+saved themselves among the Otos, on the southwest banks, where their
+descendants still live, mingled with the natives. The Missouris came
+down the river in many canoes, and their enemies had concealed
+themselves in the willow thickets. After the Missouris, who suspected
+no evil, had been killed or wounded with arrows, the victors leaped
+into the water, and finished their bloody work with clubs and knives:
+very few of the Missouris escaped.[193]
+
+To-day we saw, for the first time, from the deck of our vessel, the
+prairies of the Lower Missouri covered with luxuriant young grass, but
+the air was misty, and bounded our prospect. In the afternoon we took
+in fuel at Webb's warehouse; the river was here again covered with
+wood, which so greatly impeded our progress, that we were obliged to
+lay to for the night, seven miles above Webb's warehouse. In the
+morning of the 17th we saw only an uninterrupted forest; in the course
+of the day we again encountered much danger from the quantity of
+snags, which, in some places, scarcely left a channel of ten feet in
+breadth; but our pilot steered, with great dexterity, between all
+these dangers, where many a smaller vessel had been wrecked. During
+this hazardous navigation, we were all on deck, anxiously expecting
+the result, but everything went off well. We afterwards sounded,
+sought another channel, but proceeded very slowly, so that we only
+passed Fire Prairie,[194] and lay to for the night, five miles below
+Fort Osage.
+
+Our engine was broken, so that we could not proceed till the next
+morning (18th April). On that morning I had the misfortune to break my
+last Reaumur's thermometer, so that, henceforth, all the observations
+of the temperature are according to Fahrenheit's scale. Some of my
+people, attracted by the cries of the wild turkeys, were tempted to
+land, but returned without having met with any success. I happened to
+have taken no piece with me, which I much regretted, for a wild
+turkey-cock came out of a bush about ten paces from me, and stood
+still, looking at me, while his splendid feathers shone in the sun.
+Vegetation was rather backward. A large flock of sandhill cranes,
+taking their course to the north-east, filled the air with their
+cries; their note is very similar to that of the European crane. After
+the people had returned on board, at the repeated summons of the bell,
+we proceeded on our voyage, but were soon obliged to take soundings,
+and to saw off some dangerous snags; we then landed twenty men on a
+sand bank, to tow the [pg. 118] steamer, but their efforts broke the
+rope, and they all tumbled one upon another, to the great amusement
+of those on board. By way of precaution, our vessel was fastened to a
+large tree, which proved our safety, for the rudder was soon
+afterwards deranged, and rendered unserviceable. It was repaired about
+two o'clock, but we soon run aground on a sand bank, where we were
+obliged to remain all night, in a rather unsafe situation, for the
+current, on the bank, was very strong, and we could not fasten the
+vessel to anything, so that we might easily have been carried down the
+stream; the river, however, continued to subside. On the morning of
+the 19th a flat boat was procured, to lighten our vessel, by landing a
+part of the cargo, which was piled up in the wood, on the bank, and
+covered with cloths. Mr. Bodmer made a faithful sketch of this
+scene.[195]
+
+At four o'clock in the afternoon, the crew had got the steamer off the
+sand bank into deeper water, on the right, a little below the mouth of
+Fishing Creek.[196] Here our anchors, boats, &c., were taken on board,
+and three men left to take care of the landed goods, which consisted
+of the presents for the Indians in Major Dougherty's agency. The flat
+boat was sent back to its owner, on Fishing Creek, under the care of
+thirty men, who had to wade in the water to keep it afloat. After
+taking in fuel, for which the wood of the red mulberry and the ash is
+preferred, we proceeded slowly, and reached, at dusk, the hill, on the
+right bank, where Fort Osage, built, in 1808, by Governor Lewis,
+formerly stood. The ridge on which it was situated is free from wood,
+and cultivated, and the last posts and beams were taken away by the
+people in the neighbourhood. This part of the country was the chief
+abode of the Osages. Only ten years ago they were still at
+Cote-Sans-Dessein. They are peaceably disposed towards the Americans;
+and the Fur Company have trading posts in their territory. The whole
+tract, from the Osage River, through which we have passed, was
+formerly theirs, but they sold a part of it to the United States, and
+they are now entirely forced back into the prairies, on the river
+Arkansas.[197]
+
+We lay to, for the night, a short distance below Fort Osage. On the
+20th, in the morning, Blue Water River was hid from us, by a long
+island, on the steep banks of which large snags, covered with sand and
+earth, projecting very far, formed a threatening point.[198] We had
+scarcely passed it, when we run aground on a sand bank. The engine was
+immediately backed; but the current carried the vessel so close to the
+above point, that it tore away our side gallery with a great crash.
+The carpenter soon repaired it, and our progress was now more
+favourable. At noon we had 68-1/2 deg. Fahrenheit. At this time a
+thunder-storm arose, accompanied with hail and rain. The rain
+continued to fall in torrents till we reached the landing-place of the
+village of Liberty, which is at some distance from the river.[199]
+Some buildings and detached houses were situated on the bank, in front
+of the wooded mountains, where the vigorous vegetation, refreshed by
+the rain, was very brilliant. The tall, slender, forest trees, grow
+among picturesque rocks; the beautiful flowers of the red bud tree,
+bright green moss, and a thick carpet of verdure, chiefly consisting
+[pg. 119] of the leaves of the May-apple (_Podophyllum_), everywhere
+covered the mountains. The papaw trees were just opening their buds.
+This is about the northern limit for the growth of this tree. Some
+keel-boats were lying here, belonging to the Fur Company of Messrs.
+Ashley and Soublette, which was just established as a rival to the
+American Fur Company.[200] In the pay of these gentlemen, there were,
+in the boats, about ten Germans, who had engaged in this service, for
+which they were not well qualified, and were, besides, wholly
+inexperienced in the mode of trading with the Indians. We next reached
+the mouth of the Blue Water River, the clear blue waters of which
+formed a great contrast to those of the Missouri.[201] We were here
+joined by a couple of canoes, with some Canadian _engages_ from the
+Upper Missouri, who brought to Mr. Mc Kenzie news from Fort Union, at
+the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. Their half Indian costume, which
+is usually worn, was new to us. One of them, named Defond, a tall,
+slender, brown man, was a half-breed Indian, and one of the best and
+most experienced pilots of the Missouri. Mr. Mc Kenzie had sent for
+him to steer our vessel up the river, and he fully justified his
+reputation. He was likewise a sportsman, and brought us several
+turkeys which had been lately shot. Before evening we became
+acquainted with the quicksands of the Missouri. These are sand banks
+which are so soft that one immediately sinks in them. We saw an ox,
+which went deeper at every motion, while nobody could afford it any
+assistance.
+
+On the next morning (21st April), we reached the mouth of the river
+Konza, or Konzas, called by the French, Riviere des Cans, which is not
+quite so broad as the Wabash, and was now very shallow. Its clear
+green water was distinguished by a well-defined, undulating line, from
+the muddy stream of the Missouri. The steam-boat has navigated the
+Konzas about seven miles upward, to a trading-post of the American Fur
+Company, which is now under the direction of a brother of Mr. P.
+Chouteau.[202] It is said that this country formerly abounded in
+beavers, but their numbers are much diminished. At the point of land
+between the Konzas and the Missouri, is the boundary which separates
+the United States from the territory of the free Indians. It runs
+directly from south to north, comes from the territory of the Osages,
+passes the Osage River, and goes northward from the Missouri, parallel
+to the Little Platte River, to Weeping Water River, which falls into
+the Missouri, whence it runs eastward to the Des-Moines and the
+Mississippi. About 500 or 600 paces from the mouth of the Konzas, the
+banks of the river consist of high yellow clay walls, in the forest;
+and near it live the remnants of several Indian tribes, which were
+driven or dislodged from the States to the east of the Mississippi, to
+whom land was assigned in these parts. Among them were the Delawares,
+Shawnees, Miamis, &c., &c.
+
+Proceeding 90 or 100 miles up the river, you come to the villages of
+the Konzas (Cans, of the French), the best accounts of whom are given
+by Mr. Say in the narrative of Mr. Long's travels.[203] These people
+formerly lived nearer to the Missouri, but have gradually retired from
+it. Their language is entirely the same as that of the Osages, and the
+language of these two people [pg. 120] is only a dialect, originally not
+different from that of the Omahas and Puncas, being distinguished only
+by the pronunciation, and not by its roots. At present the Konzas
+inhabit the tract on both sides of the river of the same name, and its
+tributaries, and they make excursions into the prairies of the
+Arkansas.
+
+We were now in the free Indian territory, and felt much more
+interested in looking at the forests, because we might expect to meet
+with some of their savage inhabitants. We examined the country with a
+telescope, and had the satisfaction of seeing the first Indian, on a
+sand bank, wrapped in his blanket; but our attention was soon called
+to the obstacles on the river: we avoided one dangerous place, where
+the Missouri was so full of trunks of trees that we were forced to put
+back; but at noon, when the thermometer was at 75 deg., we got among
+drift wood, which broke some of the paddles of our wheels, so that it
+was necessary to stop the engine. Forty-two of our men, most of whom had
+been out with their fowling-pieces, came on board. Among them was Dr.
+Fellowes, a young physician, going to the cantonment at Leavenworth.
+
+The underwood of the forest consisted chiefly of _Laurus benzoin_ and
+_Cercis Canadensis_; the ground was covered with _Equisetum hyemale_,
+from one and a half to two feet high. Limestone everywhere stood out;
+large blocks of it were on the bank. The Little Platte River here
+falls into the Missouri. On the northern bank, seven miles up that
+river, are the villages of the Joway Indians, who speak the same
+language as the Ottowas.[204] They inhabit and hunt the country about
+the Little Platte, Nadaway, Nishnebottoneh Rivers, together with a
+band of the Saukies, who have settled in this neighbourhood. A couple
+of Shawnee Indians stood on the high bank, and made us friendly signs.
+We halted, for the night, near Diamond Island; our people cut down
+some trees, and kindled a large fire, which illumined the tall
+forests.
+
+The next morning, 22nd of April, was warm and cheerful, the
+thermometer being at 64-1/2 deg. Fahrenheit, at half-past seven o'clock.
+About six, we passed several islands, separated by narrow channels,
+where our pilot steered so close to the left bank that the hens which
+we had on board flew to the land.[205] We soon came to a place where
+most of the trees were cut down, and we were not a little surprised at
+the sight of a sentinel. It was the landing-place of the cantonment
+Leavenworth, a military post, where four companies of the sixth
+regiment of infantry of the line, about 120 men, under Major Ryley,
+were stationed to protect the Indian boundary.[206] There were also
+100 rangers, who are mounted and armed militia, who are well
+acquainted with Indian warfare.
+
+We were stopped at this place, and our vessel searched for brandy, the
+importation of which, into the Indian territory, is prohibited;[207]
+they would scarcely permit us to take a small portion to preserve our
+specimens of natural history. Major Dougherty rejoined us here, and
+brought with him several Kickapoo Indians who had come from St. Louis
+to receive land in these parts.[208] The [pg. 121] Kikapoos, and
+Delawares, and some other Indians, are settled at no great distance
+from this place; the officers of the garrison were on board the whole
+day, and our hunters rambled about the surrounding country. We saw, in
+the neighbourhood, the beautiful yellow-headed _Icterus
+xanthocephalus_. The black oak and other trees were in blossom, and
+many interesting plants. Near the bank, where the vessel lay, the beds
+of limestone were full of shells, of which we kept some specimens.
+Between these limestone strata there were, alternately, thin layers of
+dark bluish clay slate, which was not yet very hard.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[175] Other travellers of our series made their way up the
+Missouri--Bradbury (volume v), and Brackenridge (volume vi), in 1811,
+in a barge; Long's party (our volumes xiv-xvii) in 1819, 1820 in a
+steamboat; Townsend (our volume xxi), in 1834, partly by land and
+partly by river. Such places as they mention will not here be
+specifically noticed, a general reference to these earlier volumes
+being considered sufficient.--ED.
+
+[176] See Plate 10, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. The
+Kickapoo are briefly noticed in Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i,
+p. 139, note 111. They removed to the west of the Mississippi after
+the treaty at Edwardsville, Illinois, in 1819.--ED.
+
+[177] Schoolcraft justly observes that the course of the Missouri is
+much more considerable than that of the Mississippi, and that it would
+have been more proper to leave the name Missouri to the river, and not
+call it the Mississippi.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[178] Still called Ramrod Eddy, about five miles above St. Charles.
+See Missouri River Commissioners' map, made by United States engineers
+in 1878-79, and published 1883-84.--ED.
+
+[179] See our volume xviii, p. 25, note 1.--ED.
+
+[180] The stream is now called Buffalo Creek, in Warren County, with
+the town of Dundee at its mouth.
+
+Pinckney was a small village, the seat of Montgomery County (1818-24),
+but now in Warren County, where a township still retains the name, the
+site of the town having long since been washed away.--ED.
+
+[181] The success of the steamboat "Yellowstone," in the fur-trade
+business, was so great that the company ordered a somewhat larger
+craft, which was built at Cincinnati in the winter of 1832-33, and
+christened the "Assiniboine." This was its initial voyage. The next
+year it ventured too far above the Yellowstone River, was caught by
+low water and obliged to winter near Poplar River. The "Assiniboine"
+was lost by fire near Bismarck, North Dakota, June 1, 1835, having on
+board a large cargo of furs, the year's supply, as well as all of
+Maximilian's collection. See preface, _ante_ p. 17.--ED.
+
+[182] Otter is more commonly known as Loutre Island; see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 47, note 18.--ED.
+
+[183] Au Vase (now Auxvasse) Creek took its name from the miring of a
+party under charge of Lilburn W. Boggs. It is in Callaway County; and
+Portland, a hamlet on the north side of the stream, was laid off
+therein in 1831.--ED.
+
+[184] The defense of this place is detailed in our volume xiv, pp.
+139, 140. For Brackenridge, see our volume vi.--ED.
+
+[185] In 1820 a commission was chosen to select a site for the state
+capital, somewhere near the centre of the state. The place selected
+was in Cole County, but it did not actually become the capital until
+about 1826. On Long's map it is marked as "Missouriopolis."--ED.
+
+[186] These two places are noticed in our volume xxi, p. 133, note 8
+(Townsend.)--ED.
+
+[187] For Boonville see our volume xxi, p. 89, note 59 (Wyeth). For
+Franklin, volume xix, p. 188, note 33 (Gregg).--ED.
+
+[188] Probably the settlement now known as Arrow Rock, in Saline
+County.--ED.
+
+[189] The treaty of cession was signed in 1824, whereby the Iowa
+Indians relinquished all lands in Missouri, agreeing not to hunt
+therein after January 1, 1826. See _Indian Treaties_ (Washington,
+1837), p. 316.--ED.
+
+[190] None of the Indian languages of these parts, of which Major
+Dougherty spoke thirteen or fourteen, have any general plural; thus,
+for instance, they never say, in general, _horses_, but always mention
+a number, as expressive of many horses; nor is there any real
+article.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[191] Wakenda Creek, the largest stream in Carroll County, is named
+from an Indian term meaning "divinity" or "worshipped."--ED.
+
+[192] Some accounts say that the Osages were the assailants, but I
+believe the above statement to be correct, because it was given me by
+Major Dougherty.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[193] This defeat of the Missouri, once the most powerful tribe on the
+lower reaches of the river, occurred toward the close of the
+eighteenth century. Small-pox completed the destruction of the tribe.
+See Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, p. 56, note 26.--ED.
+
+[194] Fire Prairie is on the south bank of the Missouri, in the
+present Lafayette County, a creek of the same name entering the river
+at this point. It is said to take its name from the death there of
+several Indians in a prairie fire.--ED.
+
+[195] See Plate 37, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[196] Fishing Creek (or River) rises in Clinton County and flows south
+and southeast into the Missouri through Clay and Ray counties.--ED.
+
+[197] An historical notice of old Fort Osage is given in Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 60, note 31. The Osage Indians, _ibid_, p.
+50, note 22. The cession by which the Osage were forced back was made
+at St. Louis in June, 1825, under General William Clark's
+superintendency.--ED.
+
+[198] Now known as Little Blue Creek, rising on the southern borders
+of Jackson County and flowing nearly north into the Missouri.--_Ed._
+
+[199] Liberty, the county seat of Clay, was settled in 1822, but up to
+1826 had only about a dozen houses; it was incorporated in 1829.
+During the Mormon troubles of the fourth decade of the nineteenth
+century, Liberty rose into prominence. The town is set back about six
+miles from the river, on the high, salubrious uplands. Liberty
+Landing, on the river, was in the days of the Santa Fe trade of some
+commercial importance.--ED.
+
+[200] Maximilian's remarks are misleading in regard to the operations
+of these traders. Ashley began his fur-trading ventures in 1822; four
+years later he sold out to Smith, Jackson, and Sublette; they in turn
+relinquished their business to younger traders in 1830. So the Rocky
+Mountain Fur Company had for about eleven years been an efficient
+rival to the American.
+
+For a brief sketch of Sublette see our volume xix, p. 221, note 55
+(Gregg).
+
+General William Henry Ashley was born in Virginia in 1778. Soon after
+the beginning of the nineteenth century he went to Missouri, settling
+first at Ste. Genevieve, later in St. Louis, and embarking in various
+mercantile enterprises. In 1816-17 he surveyed in the state, and the
+knowledge thus obtained permitted him to make heavy investments for
+some English capitalists, which laid the foundation of his fortune. In
+1820 he was elected lieutenant-governor, and during his term (1820-24)
+began his fur-trading exploits, from which he derived profit and fame.
+His title came as leader of the state militia, in whose development he
+was much interested. In 1831 he was appointed to a vacant seat in
+Congress, being re-elected thereto two successive terms. He died at
+St. Louis in 1838.--ED.
+
+[201] The Big Blue rises in Johnson County, Kansas, and flows
+northeast and north through Jackson County, Missouri, until it joins
+the Missouri six miles below Kansas City.--ED.
+
+[202] This trading post was on the south side of the Kansas, opposite
+Muncie, in what is now Wyandotte County, built about 1828. It was for
+many years in charge of Cyprian Chouteau (1802-79), half brother of
+Pierre, jr. Fremont set out thence on his journey (1842).--ED.
+
+[203] See our volume xiv, pp. 183-198.--ED.
+
+[204] These villages of the Iowa, on the Little Platte, appear to have
+been temporary. Probably the tribe had fled in this direction after
+the troubles of the Black Hawk War (1832). In 1836 they ceded this
+strip--which was added to Missouri as the "Platte Purchase"--and
+removed to Kansas. The author cannot intend that the language of the
+Iowa resembled that of the Ottawa; the former is of Dakota stock, the
+latter of Algonquian. The Sauk and Foxes, at this time intimately
+commingled with the Iowa, spoke Algonquian.--ED.
+
+[205] For these islands, see our volume xiv, p. 174, note 141.--ED.
+
+[206] Fort Leavenworth was founded to supersede two smaller
+posts--Forts Osage and Atkinson--the latter near Council Bluffs. The
+site was chosen because of the increasing interest in the Santa Fe
+trade, and because of the removal of large tribes of Indians west of
+the Missouri border. On March 7, 1827, Colonel Henry Leavenworth was
+ordered to proceed from Jefferson Barracks and choose the site for an
+establishment on the left bank of the Missouri, within twenty miles of
+the mouth of Little Platte. He selected instead Rattlesnake Hills on
+the right bank, a site later approved by the government. Fort
+Leavenworth has been an important military post throughout the history
+of the West. It was called Leavenworth Cantonment until the name was
+officially changed to "Fort," about 1832.
+
+For Major Bennett Riley see our volume xix, p. 185, note 25
+(Gregg).--ED.
+
+[207] This law was passed in the first session of the twenty-second
+congress, and was merely a portion of an act to create an Indian
+commissioner. It caused but little debate, and apparently was fathered
+by General Ashley and others cognizant of conditions in the fur-trade.
+For the consternation it created among the traders consult Chittenden,
+_Fur-Trade_, index.--ED.
+
+[208] According to the treaty held at St. Louis in 1832, with the
+Kickapoo chiefs, a deputation was to visit the new territory in Kansas
+and agree to the lands chosen. This was accordingly done in November,
+and this would appear to be among the arrivals early in the spring of
+1833 to take possession of the new reservation.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+JOURNEY FROM THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH TO THE PUNCA INDIANS, FROM
+APRIL 22ND TO MAY 12TH
+
+   Dangerous place, Wassoba-Wakandaga--Independence
+   River--Blacksnake Hills, with Roubedoux Trading House--The
+   Joways and Saukies--Nadaway River--Wolf River--Grand Nemahaw
+   River--Country of the Half-breeds--Nishnebottoneh River--Little
+   Nemahaw River--Violent Storm--Weeping-water Creek--La Platte
+   River--Belle Vue, Dougherty's Agency--The Omaha Indians--Their
+   Dance--Council Bluffs--Boyer's Creek--Little Sioux
+   River--Blackbird Hills--Floyd's Grave--Big Sioux River--Joway
+   River--Vermilion Creek--Jacques River--The Punca
+   Indians--Meeting with the Assiniboin Steamer.
+
+
+The Yellow Stone left the cantonment at five in the afternoon of the
+22nd of April, and we soon reached the narrow part of the river called,
+by the Osages and Konzas, Wassoba-Wakandaga (Bear-Medicine).[209]
+There were so many trunks of trees in the river that it seemed very
+problematical whether we should be able to pass between them. Our
+people cut off some of the most dangerous branches below water, and
+got our vessel gradually through; soon after which we lay to for the
+night.
+
+The next morning, 23rd of April brought us a storm, with thunder, but
+without lightning. Early in the morning a large branch of a tree,
+lying in the water, forced its way into the cabin, carried away part
+of the door case, and then broke off, and was left on the floor. After
+this accident, when one might have been crushed in bed, we came to Cow
+Island, where, in 1818, some troops, on their way to Council Bluff,
+were overtaken by the frost, and obliged to pass the winter.[210] At
+half-past seven o'clock, the temperature was 67 deg. The heat of the
+preceding day had greatly advanced vegetation; the forests were
+beautifully verdant, and there were many flowers. The Indians now make
+sugar from the maple. The Kikapoo Indians, whom we had seen at St.
+Louis, were to have lands assigned them in these parts, and their
+territory is said to extend to Independence River. There were no fixed
+Indian villages at that time, but the [pg. 123] Joways, Saukies, and
+Foxes hunt in these parts. We proceeded past Cow Island, which is six
+miles in length, and covered with poplars, and shave grass. The sand
+was marked by the footsteps of the stags which come here to drink, by
+which they tread down deep paths to the water's edge, and lick holes
+in the saline clay of the bank. Here began green hills without wood,
+which are the transition to the entirely naked prairie, as they at
+first alternate with woods, which grow in the ravines, and on the
+banks of the river. At twelve o'clock the thermometer was at 77 deg. Our
+navigation was attended with many difficulties to Independence River,
+the mouth of which is on the right bank; here we reached, on the same
+side of the river, naked grassy eminences, where a village of the
+Konzas formerly stood, and which is still usually marked in the maps.
+The Spaniards had a post of a few soldiers here.[211] The soil is said
+to be very fertile and favourable to settlers. The forests were now in
+their greatest beauty, and began to afford some shade.
+
+On the 24th we saw the chain of the Blacksnake Hills, but we met with
+so many obstacles in the river that we did not reach them till towards
+the evening. They are moderate eminences, with many singular forms,
+with an alternation of wooded and open green spots. Near to the steep
+bank a trading house has been built, which was occupied by a man named
+Roubedoux, an agent of the Fur Company.[212] This white house,
+surrounded by the bright green prairies, had a very neat appearance,
+and Mr. Bodmer sketched this pretty landscape, which had a beautiful
+effect of light and shade. It is only this part of the chain that is
+called Blacksnake Hills, for the chain itself is no other than that
+which we had long observed on the banks, of which there are two, one
+on each side, running parallel to each other, and forming the valley
+of the Missouri, more or less approaching to or receding from it. The
+river flows through the alluvial soil which it has thrown up, and
+which is changed, every year, crossing from one chain to the other,
+and, where it reaches the chain, produces high banks by the shock.
+
+When the steam-boat lay to, between 500 or 600 paces from the trading
+house, some of the _engages_ of the company came on board, and
+reported that the Joway Indians, whose village was about five or six
+miles distant, had made an incursion into the neighbouring territory
+of the Omahas, and killed six of these Indians, and brought in a
+woman and child as prisoners, whom they offered for sale. Major
+Dougherty, to whose agency the Joways belong, immediately landed to
+rescue the prisoners, accompanied by Major Bean and Mr. Bodmer, but
+they returned, at eleven o'clock at night, without having accomplished
+their object, because the Joways, fearing his reproaches, had
+completely intoxicated both themselves and their prisoners.[213] Mr.
+Bodmer brought some beautiful plants from the prairie, among which
+were [pg. 124] the fine orange-coloured flowers of the _Batschia
+canescens_, which we here saw for the first time.
+
+On the forenoon of the following day, the 25th, we passed the mouth of
+the Nadaway River,[214] and met with many difficulties, so that we
+were even obliged to back for some distance, and landed our
+wood-cutters in Nadaway Island. A Captain Martin wintered on this
+island for two seasons, 1818 and 1819, with three companies of
+riflemen.[215] At that time there was so much game that they entirely
+subsisted on it. We were told that in one year they killed 1,600, in
+the other 1,800 head of game (_Cervus Virginianus_), besides elks and
+bears; and wounded, perhaps, as many more of those animals, which they
+were unable to take. The woods were very picturesque. The numerous
+horse-chestnuts were in full leaf; the white ash was in flower, as
+well as many species of pear and plum, which looked as if covered with
+snow, and formed a beautiful contrast with the red masses of the
+flower of the _Cercis_. The canal between Nadaway Island and the
+cantonment is called Nadaway Slew, at the end of which we saw the
+remains of some Indian huts. In a dark glen in the forest, we observed
+a long Indian hut, which occupied almost its whole breadth, and must
+have served for a great number of persons. The bald eagle had built
+its nest on many of the high trees on the bank. In some places we saw
+smoke rising in the forest; in others, the trees and the ground were
+burnt quite black. Such fires are sometimes caused by the Indians, in
+order to escape the pursuit of their enemies, and sometimes, also, by
+the agents of the fur traders. We were told that the forest was green,
+this year, a fortnight earlier than usual. We saw everywhere pairs of
+the beautiful _Anas sponsa_, which came out of the holes in the bank,
+where they doubtless had their nests. Before dusk we reached the mouth
+of Wolf River, where an eagle had built her nest. The Oto Indians,
+mixed with some Missouris, live in these parts, on the west bank of
+the Missouri.[216] They are allies of the Joways, and hunt as far as
+the river La Platte.
+
+On the following morning, April 26th, we saw great numbers of water
+fowl, and many wild geese with their woolly young; the parents never
+abandoned them, even when our people shot at them. The care and
+anxiety which these birds shewed for their young interested us much.
+We came to the mouth of the Grand Nemahaw river in a beautiful
+romantic country, from which, to the Little Nemahaw, the territory of
+the people called Half-breeds extends. Among the Omaha, Oto, Joway,
+and Yankton (Sioux) Indians, there lived from 150 to 200 of their
+descendants by white men, to whom they assigned this tract of land as
+their property. They had taken this resolution two years before, but
+had not yet carried it into execution. The land was given by the Otos
+to whom it belonged, and the other tribes bore part of the expenses.
+Towards noon, when the thermometer was at 27 deg., we again, several
+times touched the bottom, near Tarkio [pg. 125] River, but without
+receiving any injury. Picturesque forests alternate with the verdant
+alluvial banks of the river, and Indian hunting huts were everywhere
+seen, but no inhabitants. One may travel thousands of miles along this
+river without seeing a human being. From the mouth of the Nishnebottoneh
+to Council Bluffs, there is a narrow green prairie before the chain of
+hills; the mouth itself is between lofty trees on the east bank. In
+the wood below, Major Dougherty once killed twenty elks, all belonging
+to one troop. They had divided, and part broke into the ice in the
+river, where they fell a prey to the Otos who pursued them. Beavers
+formerly abounded in this river, but they are now extirpated. When the
+evening sun, gradually sinking behind the tall forest, illumined the
+whole country, we had a lovely view of the chain of hills, variously
+tinged with brilliant hues of violet, pink, and purple, while the
+broad mirror of the river and adjacent forest shone as if on fire.
+Silence reigned in these solitudes, the wind was hushed, and only the
+dashing and foaming of our steamboat interrupted the awful repose. We
+were disagreeably roused from our reverie by our vessel striking
+against the snags in the river. We passed the night near Morgan's
+Island, not far from which there was formerly a trading house for the
+Oto Indians, but it no longer existed.[217] The note of the
+whip-poor-will, which we had not before met with, was heard in all the
+adjacent forests.
+
+The next morning, proceeding on our voyage, we plainly observed in
+the steep banks of the river, the alternate strata of clay and sand,
+with a thick layer of fertile black mould at the top, and, about eight
+feet below the surface, a black stratum of bituminous coal, or coal
+slate, which we were, however, unable to examine closely. On the bank
+we saw what are called pumice stones, which are pieces of the rock of
+the Upper Missouri, changed by fire, and brought down by the river;
+the Indians use this pumice stone to smooth their tanned and hardened
+skins. At the mouth of the Little Nemahaw River, the Missouri was very
+shallow. Our vessel having received several violent shocks by
+striking, and a storm, accompanied by heavy rain, arising, we ran
+aground, about noon, on a sand bank, and were obliged to put out a
+boat to take soundings, but the wind, which blew with increasing
+violence from the open prairie on the south-west, drove us further
+into the sand bank. Every moment it became more furious; our vessel
+lay almost on her side, which the people endeavoured to counteract by
+fastening her with strong cables to the trees lying in the water.
+After dinner several of our hunters went on shore, but the boat had
+scarcely returned, when the storm suddenly increased to such a degree
+that the vessel appeared to be in imminent peril. One of our chimneys
+was thrown down, and the foredeck was considered in danger; the large
+coops, which contained a number of fowls, were blown overboard, and
+nearly all of them drowned. As they got upon the sand banks they were
+afterwards taken up, with other things which we had been obliged to
+throw overboard; our cables had, happily, held fast, and, as the wind
+abated a little, Captain Bennett hoped to lay the vessel close to the
+bank, which was twenty feet high, where it would be safe [pg. 126] but
+the storm again arose, and we got deeper and deeper into the sands.
+Some of our hunters and Mr. Bodmer appeared on the bank, and wanted to
+be taken on board, but the boat could not be sent, and they were
+obliged to seek shelter from the storm in the neighbouring forests.
+Mr. Mc Kenzie, and other persons acquainted with the Missouri, assured
+us they had never encountered so violent a storm in these parts. After
+four o'clock, however, the wind abated, and the boat was dispatched to
+pick up the articles we had lost.
+
+On the following day we were obliged to lighten the ship before we
+could proceed, by landing the wood which we had taken in the previous
+day, and many other articles. Our vessel, however, soon ran aground
+again, and as we could not proceed, we made the vessel go backwards to
+the right bank, where we passed the night. In the preceding year the
+Yellow Stone had been detained five days at this place. Towards
+evening a flock of above 100 pelicans, flying northwards, passed over
+us. Their flight was in the form of a wedge, and sometimes of a
+semicircle. On the 29th, we found sufficient water, and proceeded; a
+still larger flock of pelicans induced our _engages_ to make use of
+their rifles, and they winged one of the birds, which strutted about
+on the shore, but we could not venture to take it. At half-past seven,
+A.M., we were at a place called the Narrows of Nishnebottoneh; here,
+about thirty miles from its mouth, this river comes so near to the
+Missouri, that between both there is an interval of only 200 paces.
+The appearance of the chain of hills beyond the Nishnebottoneh is very
+remarkable.[218] The calcareous rock is in very strange forms,
+sometimes like entrenchments and bastions, partly clothed with
+verdure, partly with dry yellow grass, and spotted with yellowish red
+clay. The soil is extremely fertile, and well adapted for agriculture;
+formerly there were hundreds of elks and stags in these parts, but
+they are now rarely met with. By a general agreement the Otos, Joway,
+Fox, and Saukie Indians hunt this country in common. Having been on
+shore for some time, I was returning to the vessel when the pilot
+called out that there was a rattlesnake very near me, the rattle of
+which he heard; I looked, and immediately found the animal, and having
+stunned it with some slight blows, I put it into a vessel in which
+there were already a live heterodon and a black snake, where it soon
+recovered. The three agreed very well together, but were afterwards
+put into a cask of brandy to go to Europe. This rattlesnake was of the
+species _Crotalus tergeminus_, first described by Say, which is very
+common on the Missouri. The water being too shallow, it was necessary
+partly to unload the vessel on a sand bank, and to stop for the night.
+On the morning of the 30th, many attempts were made to move from this
+spot; we sounded, put out thirty men, but were at last obliged to
+return to the place where we had passed the night. Messengers were
+then sent up the river to endeavour to procure a keelboat; meanwhile
+all our hunters went ashore. I found in the vicinity traces of the
+Indians, and large traces of wolves in the sand. A storm drove us back
+to the vessel, and soon drenched us with a torrent of rain. Our
+hunters killed a wild goose, a wood duck, and an owl, and brought a
+[pg. 127] black snake with them; one of them had broken off a piece of
+poison vine, by which his hands and face were much swollen; but the
+people here do not much mind such accidents, though the swelling
+frequently lasts many days.
+
+The 1st of May set in with rain and a clouded sky; the forests were
+dripping wet; during the night we had observed some fireflies.
+Numerous flocks of two kinds of swallows passed us, flying to the
+north. About noon a white cat-fish was caught by one of the lines
+which we had thrown out; a second broke the strong line as we were
+drawing it up. The first we had caught weighed sixty pounds, and we
+soon took another weighing sixty-five pounds, and a third weighing 100
+lbs, in the jaws of which was the hook of the line that had been
+broken. In the stomach of this and the other cat-fish were found large
+pieces of pork, the bones of fowls, &c., feet of geese, all refuse
+from the vessels; and likewise the entire gills of another large fish.
+A great number of leeches were attached to the gills of these fish. It
+is only on the Upper Missouri that this fish attains so large a size.
+
+On the following morning the Missouri had risen a little. In the
+neighbouring thickets some birds were singing, or rather twittering,
+and there was nothing like the loud concert which, at this season of
+the year, animates the European forests. The Yellow Stone did not set
+out till near eleven o'clock. In the afternoon we came to some almost
+perpendicular hills on the bank, the base of which consisted of
+violet, the middle of bluish grey, the upper part of yellow red clay.
+In some places a whole colony of swallows had built against them.
+About the place where Weeping-water Creek opens, among beautiful
+thickets, before the green hills of the prairies, we met with great
+obstructions, and were several times obliged to put the vessel back.
+We reached Five Barrel Islands, in a broad part of the river, just
+when the evening sun gave a peculiar charm to the verdant
+landscape.[219] The forest was picturesque but not very lofty; the
+bird cherry was in flower, but the blossoms of the red bud had lost
+their bright colour. Vines twined round the trunks of the trees, and
+the numerous blossoms of the phlox formed blue spots amongst the
+rocks. Towards night we met a canoe, with two persons on board, one of
+whom was M. Fontenelle, clerk to the Fur Company, who resided near at
+hand at Belle Vue. He was a man who had much experience in the trade
+with the Indians, and had often visited the Rocky Mountains. As he was
+shortly to undertake an expedition to the mountains, with a body of
+armed men, he turned back with us.[220]
+
+Early on the morning of the 3rd of May, we came to the hill called by
+the Otos and Omahas--Ischta Maso, or Ischta Manso (the iron eye). It
+is rather higher than the neighbouring hills, and a small stream of
+the same name runs from its side into the Missouri.[221] We were now
+near the month of La Platte River. Four or five miles before you come
+to the conflux, you distinguish the water of the two rivers by their
+colour, that of the La Platte being clear and green, and keeping
+unmixed on the western bank. A mile further up, the water was covered
+with foam, in [pg. 128] consequence of the heavy rains. In half an hour
+we came to the first mouth of the river, which is divided from the
+second by a low island, with gently rounded verdant hills in the back
+ground. The second mouth is the largest. There were large piles of
+drift wood on the sand bank, next the island. The river, which was
+much swollen, brought down wood and foam, and its waters, though, at
+present, not quite clear, yet still of a bluish tint, were plainly
+distinguished as they ran in a semicircular bend, from the yellowish,
+dirty water of the Missouri. After passing the sand bank at its mouth,
+we reached, in twenty minutes, Papilion Creek, and saw before us the
+green-wooded chain of hills with the buildings of Belle Vue, the
+agency of Major Dougherty. There were many sand banks in the river, on
+which there were numbers of wild geese, and some quite white birds,
+with black quill feathers--perhaps cranes or pelicans. At two in the
+afternoon we reached M. Fontenelle's dwelling, consisting of some
+buildings, with fine plantations of maize, and verdant wooded hills
+behind it. A part of the plantations belongs to the government. The
+prairie extends beyond the hills. The land is extremely fertile; even
+when negligently cultivated, it yields 100 bushels of maize per acre,
+but is said to produce much more when proper care is bestowed on it.
+The cattle thrive very well, and the cows give much milk, but some
+salt must now and then be given them. M. Fontenelle expected to
+possess, in a few years, 5,000 swine, if the Indians did not steal too
+many of them. The government of the United States bought of the
+Indians a great tract of land to the east of the Missouri, extending
+to Big Sioux River, but have hitherto left them in possession of this
+land.[222]
+
+Belle Vue, Mr. Dougherty's post, is agreeably situated. The direction
+of the river is north-west. Below, on the bank, there are some huts,
+and on the top the buildings of the agents, where a sub-agent, Major
+Beauchamp, a blacksmith, and some servants of the company, all lived
+with their families, who attend to the plantations and affairs of the
+company. These men were mostly married to women of the tribes of the
+Otos and Omahas; all, on our landing, immediately came on board. Their
+dress was of red or blue cloth, with a white border, and cut in the
+Indian fashion. Their faces were broad and coarse, their heads large
+and round, their breasts pendent, their teeth beautiful and white,
+their hands and feet small and delicate. Their children had dark brown
+hair, and agreeable features. Belle Vue was formerly a trading post of
+the Missouri Fur Company, on the dissolution of which it was bought by
+M. Fontenelle, who parted with it to the government, and was
+appointed to the agency of the Otos, Omahas, Pawnees, and
+Joways.[223] M. Fontenelle settled, as I have said, 600 or 800 paces
+further down the river. Here the Yellow Stone lay to, and we inspected
+the buildings of the agency, from which there is a very fine view of
+the river, especially from the summit of the hill, where the cemetery
+is situated. The rock here is limestone, with a great number of
+shells, of which, however, I could see only bivalves; but our time was
+too short to decide on this point.
+
+[pg. 129] It was near this place that a marauding party of twelve Joways
+lately crossed the river, and pursued a defenceless company of Omahas,
+who had just left Belle Vue; and, having overtaken them three miles
+off, killed and plundered all of them, except some who were
+desperately wounded, and whom they believed to be dead. The victors
+returned by another way. A woman and a child recovered. Major
+Dougherty took leave of us at Belle Vue, intending to go to the
+Omahas, and appease the vengeance of that tribe. About five in the
+afternoon we also left, and were proceeding along the west bank, when
+we met two Mackinaw[224] boats, which had been obtained for our
+vessel by a boat which we had sent before. On the same bank we
+suddenly saw three Omaha Indians, who crept slowly along. They were
+clothed in buffalo robes, and had bows, with quivers made of skin, on
+their backs. About the nose and eyes they were painted white.[225]
+
+  [Illustration: Omaha Indians]
+
+Among these Indians there was a woman who had been severely wounded;
+namely, the well-known Mitain, who is spoken of in Major Long's
+"Travels to the Rocky Mountains," as an interesting instance of
+maternal affection, but without mentioning her name. She and her child
+had received many severe wounds, but were so fortunate as not to be
+scalped.[226] The nearest village of the Omahas is twenty-five miles
+from Belle Vue.[227] This country is the proper territory of this
+tribe, which lives on both sides of the Missouri, from Boyer River to
+Big Sioux River, and hunts further up to Jacques River, as well as
+between Running Water River (l'eau qui court) and the La Platte.
+
+On the morning of the 4th of May, at half-past seven o'clock, the
+thermometer was at 69-3/4 deg. We had all round us beautiful low prairie
+hills, before which was alluvial land, thrown up by the [pg. 130] river,
+covered with fine grass. The river had risen an inch during the night.
+The noise and smoke of our steamer frightened all living creatures;
+geese and ducks flew off in all directions. There was formerly a
+village of the Joway Indians at this place, the inhabitants of which,
+on the death of their chief, returned to their countrymen further
+down. On the left bank there were whole tracts covered with dead
+poplars, which had been killed by the fires caused by the Indians
+in the forest and prairie. We soon saw the white buildings of Mr.
+Cabanne's trading post, which we saluted with some guns, and then
+landed.
+
+We were very glad to see, at the landing-place, a number of Omaha and
+Oto Indians, and some few Joways, who, in different groups, looked at
+us with much curiosity; all these people were wrapped in buffalo
+skins, with the hairy side outwards; some of them wore blankets, which
+they sometimes paint with coloured stripes. In their features they did
+not materially differ from those Indians we had already seen, but they
+were not so well formed as the Saukies. Many of them were much marked
+with the small pox. Several had only one eye; their faces were marked
+with red stripes: some had painted their foreheads and chins red;
+others, only stripes down the cheeks. Few only had aquiline noses, and
+their eyes were seldom drawn down at the corners; generally speaking,
+their eyes are small, though there are exceptions. They wore their
+hair loosely hanging down their backs; none had shaved their heads;
+and, on the whole, they looked very dirty and miserable. The
+countenances of the women were ugly, but not quite so broad and flat
+as those of the Foxes and Saukies; their noses, in general, rather
+longer. Their dress did not differ much from that of those Indians,
+and they wore the same strings of wampum in their ears. The men
+carried in their hands their tobacco pipes, made of red or black stone
+(a hardened clay), adorned with rings of lead or tin, which they
+generally obtain from the Sioux, at a high price.
+
+This trading post consists of a row of buildings of various sizes,
+stores, and the houses of the _engages_, married to Indian women,
+among which was that of Mr. Cabanne, which is two stories high. He is
+a proprietor of the American Fur Company, and director of this
+station.[228] He received us very kindly, and conducted us over his
+premises. From the balcony of his house was a fine view over the
+river, but the prospect is still more interesting from the hills which
+rise at the back of the settlement. Between the buildings runs a small
+stream, with high banks, which rises from a pleasant valley, in which
+there are plantations of maize for the support of the inhabitants. Mr.
+Cabanne had planted fifteen acres of land with this invaluable grain,
+which yield, annually, 2,000 bushels of that corn, the land here being
+extremely fertile. The banks of the stream are covered with fine high
+trees, and many of the plants were in flower, especially the beautiful
+blue lychnis, the white oak, &c. A high wind prevailed throughout the
+day, but, within doors, the weather was warm, 78 deg. at four o'clock.
+Our vessel remained here the whole day, and we were besieged all the
+time by Indians, who caused a very disagreeable heat in our cabins.
+Among [pg. 131] them was a Joway, called Nih-Yu-Mah-Ni (_la pluie qui
+marche_), who sold us several articles of his dress. Mr. Bodmer made a
+sketch of the boy of an Omaha, whom the father first daubed with red
+paint. He took vermilion in the palm of the hand, spat upon it, and
+then rubbed it in the boy's face. The head of this boy was shaved
+quite smooth, excepting a tuft of hair in front, and another at the
+back.[229] A number of men and women stood round, looking on with
+eager curiosity. I showed the Indians a rattlesnake in brandy, and
+they gave me to understand that a child had lately been bitten by one
+of these animals, and died in consequence. The little child, lately
+wounded by the Joways, was brought to us; the wounds, though they had
+not been dressed and covered, were almost healed.
+
+  [Illustration: An Omaha boy]
+
+We spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. Cabanne; sitting in the
+balcony of his house, we enjoyed the delightful temperature and the
+fine scene around us. The splendid sky was illumined by the full moon;
+silence reigned around, interrupted only by the noise of the frogs,
+and the incessant cry of the whip-poor-will, in the neighbouring
+woods, till the Indians assembled round the house, and, at the request
+of Mr. Cabanne, performed a dance. About twenty Omahas joined in it;
+the principal dancer, a tall man, wore on his head an immense feather
+cap, like those of the Camacans in Brazil, but larger and of less
+elaborate workmanship, composed of long tail and wing feathers of owls
+and birds of prey;[230] in his hand he held his bow and arrows. The
+upper part of his body was covered only with a whitish skin, which
+fell over the right shoulder and breast, and was adorned with bunches
+of feathers; his arms, face, and the uncovered parts of his body, were
+painted with white stripes and spots. His trousers were marked with
+dark cross stripes, and trimmed at the ankles with a great quantity of
+fringe. He also wore an apron. He had a savage and martial appearance,
+to which his athletic figure greatly contributed. Another man, [pg. 132]
+who was younger, of a very muscular frame--the upper part of whose
+body was naked, but painted white--had in his hand a war club, striped
+with white, ornamented at the handle with the skin of a polecat.[231]
+He wore on his head a feather cap, like that already described. These
+two men, and several youths and boys, formed a line, opposite to which
+other Indians sat down in a row; in the middle of which row the drum
+was beat in quick time. Several men beat time with war clubs hung with
+bells; and the whole company (most of whom were painted white) sung,
+"Hi! hi! hi!" or "Hey! hey! hey!" &c., sometimes shouting aloud. The
+manner of the dance was thus: bending their bodies forward, they
+leaped up with both feet at once, not rising high from the ground, and
+stamped loudly, while the drum beat in quick time, and their arms were
+rattled and occasionally lifted up into the air. Thus they leaped
+opposite to each other, with great exertion, for about an hour; they
+perspired violently, till the usual presents, a quantity of tobacco
+stalks, were thrown on the ground before them. This dance was very
+interesting to me, especially in connection with the beautiful evening
+scene on the Missouri. The bright light of the moon illumined the
+extensive and silent wilderness; before us, the grotesque band of
+Indians, uttering their wild cry, together with the loud call of the
+night raven, vividly recalled to my mind scenes which I had witnessed
+in Brazil. We did not return to our vessel till late at night, after
+taking leave of our kind host, and of Major Pilcher; the former was on
+the point of returning to St. Louis, leaving the superintendence of
+the trading post to Major Pilcher.
+
+  [Illustration: Omaha war club]
+
+The Omahas, or, as some erroneously call them, Mahas, were formerly a
+numerous tribe, but have been much reduced by frequent wars with their
+neighbours; the smallpox, too, has committed dreadful ravages, and
+there are now but few vigorous young men among them. Their language
+differs from that of the Otos, Missouris, and Joways; there is,
+however, an affinity between them. The best and most complete accounts
+of the Omahas are given by Mr. Say in his Narrative of Major Long's
+"Expedition to the Rocky Mountains," to which I would refer my
+readers.[232]
+
+On the 5th of May, the Yellow Stone left Cabanne's trading house; the
+weather was warm [pg. 133] and serene; we passed the mouth of Boyer's
+Creek on the east bank, where the Missouri makes a bend, and saw the
+ruins of the former cantonment, or fort, at Council Bluffs.[233] This
+military post was established, in the year 1819, for 1,000 men, but,
+in fact, there were now only 500 men of the regiment in garrison at
+Jefferson barracks. In the year 1827, these troops were withdrawn and
+stationed at Leavenworth; the fort, or, rather, the barracks, formed a
+quadrangle, with a bastion or blockhouse, in two of the angles. At
+present there were only the stone chimneys, and, in the centre, a
+brick storehouse under roof. Everything of value had been carried away
+by the Indians. We were told that numerous rattlesnakes are found
+among the ruins. The situation of Council Bluffs is said to have been
+much more favourable for observing the Indians than that at
+Leavenworth; and it was even conjectured that this post will be again
+occupied. The military station was at first placed a little further
+inland, but the scurvy carried off 300 of the garrison in one winter.
+Mr. Sandford, who had rejoined us, once found here the large grinders
+of a mastodon, which are now in the possession of General Clarke, at
+St. Louis.
+
+At twelve at noon, we ran aground, but happily sustained no damage, at
+a dangerous place, where the left bank was blocked up with many snags,
+and which is called the Devil's Race-ground. The country was low and
+uniform till we again reached the hills, which were rather bare of
+wood, but of grotesque form, and covered with a fine verdant carpet.
+Near the mouth of the Soldier River, an _engage_ met us, who brought
+letters from the Assiniboin steamer. We went on pretty well till the
+evening, when we got upon a sand bank, and then made the vessel fast
+for the night; after which our people exerted themselves to get off
+the bank, in the midst of a storm of thunder and lightning.
+
+The steamer was got afloat by daybreak on the 6th. On both sides there
+was alluvial soil, thickly covered with willows and poplars, mixed, in
+some places, with other trees. Here we saw, on a sand bank, two large
+wolves, which seemed to look at us with surprise. The Omaha Indians
+hunt on both banks of this part of the river; they are said to be the
+most indolent, dull, unintellectual, and cowardly of the Missouri
+Indians. At two in the afternoon we landed on the prairie, which was
+covered with tall trees, and forty or fifty of our men immediately
+began to hew down wood for fuel; there was abundance of grass, but not
+a single flower, which was caused by the prairie having been set on
+fire; black burnt wood was scattered about, and the ground itself was
+discoloured in places by the effects of the fire.
+
+From this place the country becomes more and more level, and bare of
+wood, and the eye roves over the boundless prairie. Behind a
+willow-tree I saw some remains of Indian huts, in front of one of
+which a pole was set up, with a piece of red cloth attached to the
+top. The forest, which had been inundated, was likewise destitute of
+flowers; numerous traces of stags were everywhere seen. During the
+night a man deserted, whom Mr. Mc Kenzie had some time before put under
+arrest for having uttered vehement threats. The 7th day of May, the
+anniversary of our [pg. 134] departure from Germany, was very fine. We
+soon reached the chain of hills on the left bank, at a place where the
+yellow limestone rock was nearly perpendicular, and in which
+innumerable swallows had built their nests; these are called Wood's
+Hills, and do not extend very far. On one of them we saw a small,
+conical mound, which is the grave of the celebrated Omaha chief,
+Washinga-Sahba (the blackbird). In James's Narrative of Major Long's
+Expedition, is a circumstantial account of this remarkable and
+powerful chief, who was a friend to the white man: he contrived, by
+means of arsenic, to make himself feared and dreaded, and passed for a
+magician, because he put his enemies and rivals out of the way when it
+suited him. An epidemical smallpox carried him off, with a great part
+of his nation, in the year 1800, and he was buried, sitting upright
+upon a live mule, at the top of a green hill on Wakonda Creek. When
+dying, he gave orders that they should bury him on that hill, with his
+face turned to the country of the white men.[234] The Omahas have been
+since so reduced by their enemies, the Sioux, Saukies, and Foxes, that
+they are now quite powerless and insignificant, not being able to
+muster above 300 or 400 warriors. Washinga-Sahba was so feared by his
+own people, that nobody ventured to wake him when he slept: it is said
+that they used then to tickle his nose with a blade of grass. The
+present chief of the Omahas is Ongpa-Tanga (the great elk), of whom
+Godman, in his Natural History, has given a good portrait. He lives on
+the Horn River, which falls into the La Platte, about twenty miles
+above its mouth.[235]
+
+On the following day (the 8th of May) we came to Floyd's Grave, where
+the sergeant of that name was buried by Lewis and Clarke. The bank on
+either side is low. The left is covered with poplars; on the right,
+behind the wood, rises a hill like the roof of a building, at the top
+of which Floyd is buried. A short stick marks the place where he is
+laid, and has often been renewed by travellers when the fires in the
+prairie have destroyed it. A little further up is Floyd's River, and
+on Floyd's Hills there were a few fir trees, over which the kite
+hovered in the air.[236] About half a league beyond Floyd's River is
+the mouth of the Big Sioux River, interesting from the circumstance of
+its being the boundary of the territory of the Dacota, or Sioux
+nation. Its breadth, at the mouth, is about sixty paces, and it is
+said to be navigable by Mackinaw boats for 100 miles. About 120 miles
+up this river, a tribe of the Sioux reside, which is known by the name
+of Wahch-Pekute; this, and another tribe of this people on the
+Mississippi, and near Lake Pepin, are the only ones of their nation
+who plant maize; all the other hordes of the Sioux are hunters. The
+territory of these people formerly extended further to the south, till
+the before-mentioned treaty for the purchase of land was concluded
+with the Indians.[237]
+
+At noon, with a temperature of 75 deg., there was such a violent wind,
+that the fine sand from the banks penetrated into the innermost parts
+of our vessel; the broad river was so agitated by the wind, that the
+pilot could not distinguish the sand banks, and we were obliged to lie
+to. In a small meadow in the woods we saw the giant footsteps of the
+elks, and likewise of the common [pg. 135] stag, which we would
+willingly have followed had not a rising tempest compelled us to
+return on board. Vivid lightning flashed in the horizon, the rain soon
+poured down in torrents, and at night a storm arose which, at
+midnight, raged with such fury, that we might have felt some alarm,
+had not our vessel been so well protected by the bank. The storm
+frequently forced open the doors of the upper cabin, and the rain beat
+into the room. Towards daybreak the tempest returned with increased
+violence; the flashes of lightning and the claps of thunder were
+incessant during the twilight, and everybody thought that the vessel
+must be struck.
+
+The 9th of May set in with rain, a cloudy sky, and high wind; the
+thermometer, before so high, fell, at half-past seven o'clock, to 56 deg.
+When the storm had passed over, our vessel quitted the place where it
+had taken shelter. We passed along wild, desolate banks, then a green
+prairie, by a chain of steep hills, partly bare, partly covered with
+forests, or with isolated fir trees and picturesque ravines, with dark
+shadows, into which the close thicket scarcely allowed the eye to
+penetrate. We here saw, for the first time, a plant which now became
+more and more common; namely, the buffalo-berry-bush (_Sheperdia
+argentea_, Nutt.), with pale, bluish-green, narrow leaves. At the
+mouth of the Joway River, which runs into the Missouri, on the south
+bank, at a very acute angle, clay-slate appeared to stand out on the
+bluffs, divided into narrow, horizontal strata, the lower of which
+were blackish-blue, and those above of yellowish-red colour.[238] Our
+hunters and wood-cutters landed, on which occasion we lost a hound,
+which had strayed too far into the forest. Five or six hundred paces
+further up, we saw, among the thickets of willow and poplar, an old
+Indian wigwam,[239] near which the red willow, mixed with the common
+willow, was in blossom. The thermometer, which had been at 56 deg. in
+the morning, rose at ten o'clock, when the sun broke through the clouds.
+We frequently observed the wild geese, which endeavoured to take their
+young, of which they never had more than four or six, to some place on
+shore, where they would be safe from us. When we came very near, the
+mother fluttered anxiously to a little distance, and called them to
+her.
+
+We continued our voyage, but soon lay to at the prairie, on the right
+bank, because Mr. Mc Kenzie wished to form a plantation at this place.
+The whole plain was covered with high, dry grass. On the bank of the
+river there was a fine border of tall timber trees, in which the
+turtle-dove cooed, and flocks of blackbirds were flying about. The
+hills of the prairie were covered with the finest verdure, and the
+singular forms of the hills afforded us an interesting subject of
+observation on the otherwise uniform appearance of the country. We
+halted for the night near the high trees that bordered the prairie,
+where there were numbers of ducks and plovers. As soon as it was dark,
+the young men set fire to the dry grass of the prairie, to give us the
+pleasure of seeing how the fire spread, but the attempt did not fully
+succeed, because there was [pg. 136] no wind. Mr. Mc Kenzie left some men
+here, with agricultural implements, to make a plantation; among them
+was one Francois Roi, of Rheims, whose name gave occasion to many
+innocent jokes, and we deliberated what name should be given to the
+kingdom he was going to found.
+
+On the following day, the 10th, we had been exactly four weeks since
+we left St. Louis. At the spot where we now were, it is said that
+large herds of buffaloes are seen in the winter, but we had not yet
+met with one of these animals. The character of the country was much
+changed; it is, for the most part, naked, and without woods. The trees
+which are found here are no longer lofty and vigorous, as on the Lower
+Missouri; yet the wild vines are still seen climbing on the bushes,
+though this, too, entirely ceases further up the river. Near the mouth
+of Vermilion Creek, the green hills of the prairie approach very near
+the water; and here we saw, on the back of one of the hills, a grave
+surrounded with poles, which was that of some Sioux Indians, who had
+been killed by lightning in a violent thunder-storm. At the mouth of
+the stream we saw wild ducks and geese, of which a pair of the latter,
+with six young ones, anxiously endeavoured to escape us. The female
+remained faithfully with her young ones, while the male flew away.
+
+The morning of the following day (the 11th of May) brought us to the
+mouth of Jacques River, which was concealed from our view by a sand
+bank. The steep banks, which in Lewis and Clarke's map are called
+Calumet Bluffs, have deep ravines, and are of an ash-grey colour at
+the base, and yellow above. We reached the island called by those
+travellers Sego Island, where we found very little water, and then
+came to Lewis and Clarke's White Bear Bluffs, of which Mr. Bodmer made
+a drawing.[240] At noon the thermometer was at 63 deg. After dinner we
+saw, at a distance, the Assiniboin steamer, with which we came up in
+half an hour. It had not been able to proceed any further for want of
+a sufficient depth of water. After we had saluted the master of the
+vessel, Mr. Pratte, son of the General of that name at St. Louis, and
+a member of the American Fur Company, we went on board his
+vessel.[241] In this steamer there were two cabins, much lighter and
+more pleasant than those in the Yellow Stone; the stern cabin had ten
+berths, and the fore cabin twenty-four, and between decks was the
+large apartment distinct for the _engages_. The crew had lately killed
+a she-bear--the young ones were alive on board. While we were visiting
+the Assiniboin, we suddenly perceived, on the left or southern bank,
+a number of Indians, between fifteen and twenty of whom rolled down
+the hills. As our people did not seem very desirous of having anything
+to do with them, and contented themselves with looking at them through
+a telescope, we took advantage of the fine weather to make an
+excursion into the prairie.
+
+The chain of hills, bounding the valley of the Missouri on the north,
+crossed the verdant prairie, in a straight line, at a distance of
+about 1,000 paces from the river. The appearance of this chain was
+singular, with perpendicular, yellow, calcareous walls, which
+indicated that the [pg. 137] river must, formerly, have flowed in that
+direction; and the cylindrical hollow marked the ancient bed of the
+river. In the prairie itself there were many pools of water, and we
+found several interesting plants, among which were some with long
+roots like carrots, especially the yellow flowering _Batschia
+longiflora_ (Pursh.), and the _Oxitropis Lamberti B._ The great
+yellow-breasted lark (_Sturnella_, Vieill.), was everywhere seen in
+pairs, and its short, coy call, and its pleasing, whistling note, were
+heard from every side. Besides these, we saw the prairie hen, and the
+great long-billed curlews (_Numenius longirostris_), of which we shall
+speak hereafter. Skeletons of buffaloes were scattered in the plain,
+especially many skulls, but very few of which were entire.
+
+When I returned to the vessel, I found there three Punca Indians, the
+chief of the tribe Shudegacheh,[242] his brother Passitopa,[243] and
+Ha-cha-ga. They were all robust, good-looking men, tall, and
+well-proportioned, with strongly-marked features, high cheek-bones,
+aquiline noses, and animated dark hazel eyes. Their hair hung down as
+far as the shoulders, and part of it lower; that of the chief was
+shorter, and fastened together in a plait. The upper part of the body
+of these Indians was naked, only they wore round the neck an
+ornamented band, and had a large slit in their ears: from those of the
+chief an ornament of shell work was suspended. His beard below the
+chin consisted of scanty hairs, which had been suffered to grow very
+long.[244] They wore a narrow bracelet of white metal round the wrist,
+very plain, leather pantaloons, and large buffalo robes; the chief,
+however, was wrapped in a white blanket.
+
+The Puncas, as they are now universally called, or as some travellers
+formerly called them, Poncaras, or Poncars, the Pons of the French,
+were originally a branch of the Omahas, and speak nearly the same
+language. They have, however, been long separated from them, and dwell
+on both sides of Running-water River, and on Punca Creek, which Lewis
+and Clarke call Poncara. They formerly lived, like the Omahas, in clay
+huts, at the mouth of the river, but their powerful enemies, the Sioux
+and the Pawnees, destroyed their villages, and they have since adopted
+the mode of life of the former, living more generally in tents made of
+skins, and changing their place from time to time. Their external
+appearance and dress do not much differ from those of the Omahas. They
+are said to have been brave warriors, but have been greatly reduced by
+war and the smallpox. According to Dr. Morse's report, they numbered,
+in 1822, 1,750 in all; at present the total amount of their warriors
+is estimated at about 300.[245] The band of them, which [pg. 138] we
+met with here, has set up eight or nine leather tents, at the mouth
+of Basil Creek,[246] on a fine forest.[247] They plant maize, which
+they sell to the Sioux, but they had neglected to cultivate this grain
+for about three years, and obtained it from the Omahas; they, however,
+intended to grow it again themselves.
+
+As Major Bean was agent of the Puncas, they came to speak to him. The
+chief had formerly received, through the agent, a large silver medal
+of President Madison, which he wore suspended round his neck. On the
+face of all these medals, which are given as a distinction to the
+Indian chiefs, there is the bust of the President, and, on the
+reverse, two clasped hands, with a suitable inscription.[248]
+Shudegacheh had a remarkably intelligent countenance, and fine manly
+deportment. He sat down by us, and smoked, with his comrades, the only
+pipe that they had with them; but, according to Indian custom, several
+pipes soon circulated in the company. The evening was very cool, and,
+as some of the Indians had no leggins, we took them into our cabin,
+where their portraits were drawn, after they had been regaled with
+pork, bread, and tea, which Mr. Mc Kenzie gave them. One of the Indians
+made me a present of his wooden war-club, which was painted
+reddish-brown;[249] another, with a pair of shoes, made of elk
+leather, which were dyed black with the juice of white walnut. These
+people were not armed, as they had come merely on a visit, and had
+left their best effects behind. Among them was a French Canadian,
+named Primeau, who has long lived among them. He acted as
+interpreter, and communicated to me some words of the Punca
+language.[250]
+
+  [Illustration: Punca war club]
+
+The morning of the 12th of May was cold, there having been a hoar
+frost during the night. The Indians sat upon the bank, wrapped in
+their buffalo skins, as represented in the subjoined woodcut.[251]
+
+  [Illustration: Punca Indians in buffalo robes]
+
+[pg. 139] While the Yellow Stone remained stationary, the Assiniboin
+attempted to pass the shallow place on the river, during which time
+the hunters went into the prairie. The Indians had a conference with
+their agent, in which the chief expressed a wish that their great
+father (the President) would send them several articles, particularly
+agricultural implements. The attitude and gestures of the speaker were
+graceful; his right arm and shoulder were bare, while he gesticulated
+with his hand; and his fine, manly countenance was very expressive. As
+he had not put on his leggins, we observed, on his muscular calves,
+two tattooed stripes crossing each other, X; otherwise, he was neither
+tattooed nor painted. Some of these Indians had been inoculated with
+the smallpox by a surgeon, whom Major Bean had taken to them the year
+before, and who had inoculated 2,600 Indians of different tribes. Many
+of them had manifested distrust on this occasion; and, when he offered
+to perform the operation, said, "Now we are well; if we should become
+sick it will be time enough to submit to the operation." Shudegacheh
+had on the upper part of his arm a large, round scar, which he is said
+to have burnt into his flesh with his tobacco-pipe, on the death of a
+relation. Major Bean presented to the Indians, in the name of the
+Government, tobacco, powder, and ball, and the chief received a fine
+blanket. Mr. Mc Kenzie observed to him, that "the Puncas furnished
+too few skins, and did not plant maize enough; it was not possible
+to purchase anything of them;" to which he replied, that "there was no
+unity among his people; that they lived too scattered, and, therefore,
+he could not superintend them, and keep them to work." At noon, the
+thermometer being at 67 deg., our hunters returned, without having seen
+anything of consequence, except a couple of large curlews. The boats,
+which had been sent out to take soundings, likewise came back, and
+great exertions were made to lighten the steamer, by transferring part
+of the cargo to the Maria keel-boat. At length, at two o'clock, we
+were able to weigh anchor, and run awhile down the river, which was
+done with such rapidity that the Indians became giddy, and sat down on
+the floor. In this manner we turned round a sand bank, and proceeded
+upwards, along the south coast of the river, and in twenty minutes
+were opposite the huts of the Punca Indians. They lay in the shade of
+a forest, like white cones, and, in front of them, a sand bank
+extended into the river, which was separated from the land by a narrow
+channel. The whole troop was assembled on the edge of the bank, and it
+was amusing to see how the motley group crowded together, wrapped in
+brown buffalo skins, white and red blankets--some naked, of a deep
+brown colour. The little children, with their protuberant
+bellies,[252] and their legs, of a dark brown colour, carrying bows
+and arrows in their hands, were running along the beach, or cowering
+like little monkeys, while the men walked about, very gravely, with
+their weapons in their hands. We landed our Indian visitors on the
+sand bank; the boat brought back some skins, and we afterwards saw
+Primeau, with the Indians, wade through [pg. 140] the channel. A little
+further up we witnessed a great prairie fire, on the left bank. The
+flames rose from the forest to the height of 100 feet--fiery smoke
+filled the air: it was a splendid sight! A whirlwind had formed a
+remarkable towering column of smoke, which rose, in a most singular
+manner, in graceful undulations, to the zenith. Afterwards we came to
+steep hills, behind which is Manoel's Creek, so called from Manoel
+Lisa, a Spaniard, who formerly carried on the fur trade in these
+parts.[253] Towards evening we were near the Assiniboin steamer, which
+lay before us, and halted in the vicinity of Basil Creek, where the
+Puncas formerly dwelt, numbers of whose graves are seen upon the
+hills. The trunks of trees in the river had much injured our paddles.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[209] Lewis and Clark apply this term with different orthography
+(Waucarba, wacandda) to the island above Fort Leavenworth now known as
+Kickapoo. The river is here compressed into a narrow space, above
+which it widens considerably. See Thwaites, _Original Journals of the
+Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 64.--ED.
+
+[210] For this detachment under Captain Martin, see our volume xiv, p.
+175.--ED.
+
+[211] The creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because its mouth was
+passed by them on July 4, 1804. It is a small stream entering the
+Missouri near the boundaries of Doniphan and Atchison counties,
+Kansas. According to Lewis and Clark this was the second old Kansa
+village, the first being just above Kickapoo Island. If the Spanish
+ever had a post in this vicinity, it must have been in the capacity of
+succeeding (after 1764) to the possession of the old French post among
+the Kansa Indians. See on this subject, _Original Journals of the
+Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, pp. 64-68, and notes.--ED.
+
+[212] Joseph Robidoux, whose trading post was on the site of the
+future city of St. Joseph, which took its name from its founder. The
+Robidoux were a family of fur-traders. The father, Joseph, came from
+Montreal to Kaskaskia, and having won a competence removed to St.
+Louis, where at his house the first territorial legislature of
+Missouri met in 1812. Joseph, jr., was born in 1783, and early entered
+the fur-trade. Lewis and Clark met "young Mr. Robidoux" on their
+return journey (1806), and scrutinized his license with some
+suspicion. Lewis also complained of the loyalty of the elder trader,
+saying that he enticed the Indians from their allegiance to the United
+States. The younger Robidoux lived for many years at the post where
+Maximilian met him--in 1868 dying at this place, where the city had
+already sprung up around him. See sketch in Joseph Tasse, _Canadiens
+du Nord-Ouest_ (Montreal, 1878), ii, p. 131.--ED.
+
+[213] The Joways had exchanged their blankets and other effects for
+brandy. White settlers have already established themselves fifteen or
+sixteen miles within the Indian territory, who make whisky, and sell
+it excessively cheap to the Indians, by which these people are ruined.
+The distance is only eight miles from Roubedoux trading house to the
+Little Platte River; and between these two rivers and the high land,
+is the village of the Joways.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[214] This is, doubtless, the same river which Bradbury, in his
+_Travels_, calls Naduet River.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[215] For Captain Martin see James's _Long's Expedition_, in our
+volume xiv, p. 175, note 142. Maximilian would here appear to be
+confused. Martin passed the winter of 1818 to 1819 on Cow Island (see
+note 208, _ante_, p. 256). He had, however, a hunting camp in this
+vicinity.--ED.
+
+[216] For the Oto, see Bradbury's _Travels_, our volume v, p. 74, note
+42.--ED.
+
+[217] Morgan's Island is just below Nemaha City, in the Nebraska
+county of the same name. Probably it took its title from Colonel
+Willoughby Morgan, for whom see our volume xiv, p. 178, note 146. The
+trading post has not been identified, unless it were that of Crooks
+and McClellan, who once (1810-11) wintered in this region. See
+Brackenridge's _Journal_, volume vi of our series, p. 71.--ED.
+
+[218] Lewis and Clark found the passage across the narrows at this
+point but 300 yards. Changes have since occurred in the beds of both
+rivers. See our volume xiv, p. 217, note 166. The range of hills was
+aptly designated by the explorers as Bald Pated Prairie.--ED.
+
+[219] Weeping Water Creek is a small stream paralleling the Platte in
+Cass County, Nebraska. The French form was "l'eau qui pleure."
+
+Five Barrel Islands are laid down on early maps; with changes in the
+river's bed, they are now swept away.--ED.
+
+[220] For a brief sketch of Fontenelle, see our volume xiv, p. 275,
+note 196.--ED.
+
+[221] See Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our volume vi, p. 76, for the
+origin of this name. The Indian name of the chief--an Oto--is given by
+Lewis and Clark as "Sarnanona."--ED.
+
+[222] In the Appendix there is an account of this
+purchase.--MAXIMILIAN. _Comment by Ed._ See our volume xxiv.
+
+[223] The first trading post in this locality (with possible
+exceptions for the Spanish regime) was that of Crooks and McClellan,
+who in 1810 built a "wintering establishment" here, which was
+abandoned the following spring--see Bradbury and Brackenridge (1811).
+Shortly after, Manuel Lisa built his well-known Fort Lisa, some
+sixteen miles above Bellevue, which continued to be the prominent post
+of the vicinity (see James's _Long's Expedition_, our volume xiv, p.
+221), near which the Yellowstone Expedition built Engineer Cantonment
+for the winter of 1819-20. The Missouri Fur Company, under Joshua
+Pilcher, who succeeded Lisa as president, removed from Fort Lisa to
+the site of Bellevue about 1823. It was this post that Fontenelle
+bought out, and turned over to the American Fur Company when he became
+their agent. The post was for many years in command of Peter Sarpy.
+The Indian agency was officially entitled "Council Bluffs at
+Bellevue." In 1849 a postoffice was established here, and the village
+incorporated in 1854; some of the post buildings remained until 1870.
+Bellevue is now a village in Sarpy County, of which it was the capital
+until 1875.--ED.
+
+[224] Mackinaw boats are strong, open vessels, made of a light wood,
+in which goods are conveyed on the rivers of the Northern and Western
+States.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[225] See opposite page for illustration of Omaha Indians.--ED.
+
+[226] See our volume xv, pp. 27-33. This woman was the Indian wife of
+Manuel Lisa. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i, pp. 133-135. Judge Walter
+B. Douglas, of St. Louis, furnishes the following facts concerning
+Lisa's daughter, who was educated among the whites. She married a
+Baptist minister named Ely, and reared a considerable family, dying
+recently at Trenton, Illinois, a small town not far from St.
+Louis.--ED.
+
+[227] For the Omaha Indians see our volume v, p. 86, note 49.--ED.
+
+[228] Jean Pierre Cabanne was born in Pau, France, in 1773. After
+receiving good education he came to America--first to New Orleans,
+later to St. Louis, where he married (1797) Julie Gratiot, whose
+sister was the wife of Pierre Chouteau. For many years he was member
+of the firm of Chouteau and Pratte, thus acquiring an interest in the
+American Fur Company. The family home at St. Louis was the seat of a
+pleasant hospitality; but like many of the chief fur-traders, Cabanne
+spent part of each year in the Indian country, where he was head of
+the department centering near Council Bluffs. He left this post about
+the time of Maximilian's visit, owing to difficulty with a rival
+trader, Le Clerc, who had appealed to the courts. Cabanne died in St.
+Louis in 1841. His post was nine or ten miles by land above the
+present site of Omaha.--ED.
+
+[229] See p. 269, for illustration of an Omaha boy.--ED.
+
+[230] Not only these feather caps are pretty similar to those in
+Brazil, but also the chief instrument of the conjurors, or physicians
+(medicine men)--schischikue, as it is called--a calabash with a
+handle, in which there are small stones to rattle. The Omahas, and all
+the other North American tribes, use it exactly in the same manner as
+the Brazilians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[231] See p. 269, for illustration of an Omaha war-club.--ED.
+
+[232] See our volume xiv, pp. 288-321; and xv, pp. 11-136.--ED.
+
+[233] For Boyer River, see our volume xiv, p. 221, note 174.
+
+This fort at Council Bluffs was not on the site of the Iowa town of
+that name, but some miles higher up the river, on the Nebraska bank,
+near the village now known as Fort Calhoun, in Washington County. The
+name was first applied to the bluffs by Lewis and Clark, who held here
+(1804) an important council with chiefs of neighboring tribes. The
+United States post was built by a detachment under Colonel Henry
+Atkinson, when embarked on the famous Yellowstone expedition of 1819.
+The means of transportation proving inadequate, the troops never
+reached the Yellowstone, but formed at this point Camp Missouri, where
+during the winter of 1819-20 much sickness prevailed. The fort was
+finally christened Atkinson, for its founder, and was so known to the
+government. The local name was Fort Calhoun--whether in honor of the
+then secretary of war, or for a soldier who was the first to be here
+buried, is disputed. On the building of Fort Leavenworth, the troops
+were removed thither. See note 204, _ante_, p. 253.--ED.
+
+[234] For Blackbird, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, p. 86;
+Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our volume vi, pp. 81, 82; and James's
+_Long's Expedition_, in our volume xiv, pp. 315-320.--ED.
+
+[235] For Big Elk, see our volume v, p. 90, note 52; also xv, p. 320.
+
+Dr. John D. Godman (1794-1830) was a Marylander who in 1814
+participated in the defense of Fort McHenry. Later studying medicine,
+he was a professor of anatomy at several colleges, retiring finally to
+Germantown, Pennsylvania, where he devoted himself to scientific
+pursuits. His best known work was _American Natural History_
+(Philadelphia, 1828).
+
+By Horn River our author intends Elkhorn, for which see our volume
+xiv, p. 240, note 182.--ED.
+
+[236] For Floyd, see our volume v, p. 91, note 56; also _Original
+Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 114.--ED.
+
+[237] For the Big Sioux River, see our volume vi, p. 85, note 30. This
+branch of the Dakota (or Sioux), mentioned by Maximilian, is known as
+the Wahpekute, one of the two components of the Santee band of the
+Sioux. Together with the Mdewakantonwan or Spirit Lake band, they were
+the Sioux first known to Europeans, being designated by Hennepin as
+Issati. Their habitat was the upper waters of the Mississippi, and the
+St. Peter's (Minnesota) River. They wandered toward the Big Sioux
+River, which was made the boundary by the treaty of 1825 at Prairie du
+Chien--William Clark and Lewis Cass, commissioners. In this treaty the
+Big Sioux River is designated as the Calumet, probably because of the
+proximity of its source to the red pipestone quarries of southwestern
+Minnesota.--ED.
+
+[238] Iowa Creek, a small stream running nearly parallel to the
+Missouri in Dixon County, Nebraska. Lewis and Clark speak of the
+peculiar appearance of the bluff at this place, calling the creek
+"Rologe."--ED.
+
+[239] Wigwam is the name given to the Indian huts. The word comes from
+the Ojibua language, in which uikiuam signifies hut. This word has
+been corrupted, and applied by the whites to the habitations of all
+the Indian tribes.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[240] The James (or Dakota) River rises just south of Devil's Lake in
+Wells and Fargo counties, North Dakota, and flows nearly south into
+the Missouri. Its French name was Riviere a Jacques. Calumet Bluff is
+just above its mouth, nearly opposite Yankton, South Dakota. The term
+"Sego Island" does not occur in the Lewis and Clark text, nor has the
+name been preserved to the present day. They named White Bear Cliff
+for an animal of that kind killed in one of its holes. It was on the
+north bank, three or four miles above Yankton.--ED.
+
+[241] For Bernard Pratte, sr., see our volume xv, p. 193, note 71. In
+addition, these facts of his life may be stated. Born at Ste.
+Genevieve in 1772, he went to St. Louis when twenty-one years of age,
+and entered the fur-trade, marrying (1794) Emilie Labbadie, niece of
+Pierre Chouteau, sr. During the War of 1812-15, he was in command of
+an expedition which proceeded against Fort Madison; later was
+appointed territorial judge, and in Monroe's administration receiver
+of public moneys at St. Louis. He died April 1, 1836, respected by the
+entire community.
+
+Bernard Pratte, jr., was born in upper Louisiana, December 17, 1803.
+He was sent to Kentucky to be educated, and upon his return embarked
+in the fur-trade with his father. Being particularly interested in
+navigation, he went on the "Yellowstone's" early voyages, in this
+instance taking command of the "Assiniboine;" see his recollections in
+J. T. Scharf, _History of St. Louis_ (Philadelphia, 1883), i, p. 675.
+He was a member of the Missouri assembly in 1838, and mayor of St.
+Louis for two terms (1844-46). In 1850 he retired to a farm near
+Jonesboro', Montgomery County, where he died in 1887.--ED.
+
+[242] This name signifies "the smoker." The French Canadians generally
+call this chief Le Boucan, because smoke has that name among
+them.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ This Indian was also painted by Catlin. See
+Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1885, ii, p. 64.
+
+[243] The word Passitopa signifies the number "four." This brother of
+the chief is known from the circumstance of his having shot an Indian,
+who sought the life of a white man, who was his friend. Mr. Bodmer
+drew the portraits of the two brothers, which are very like. He has
+succeeded particularly in that of Shudegacheh.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[244] For this portrait which Maximilian calls "a good resemblance"
+see Plate 40, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[245] For the Ponca, and their present numbers, see our volume v, p.
+96, note 63.--ED.
+
+[246] Now known as Bazile Creek, in Knox County, Nebraska. It flows
+into the Missouri just east of Niobrara. Lewis and Clark called it
+White Paint Creek.--ED.
+
+[247] See Plate 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[248] In the portrait referred to in note 242, _ante_, the chief wears
+this medal on his breast. Similar medals were carried by Lewis and
+Clark; see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 363, note
+133.--ED.
+
+[249] See p. 269 for illustration of Ponca war-club.--ED.
+
+[250] Probably Charles Primeau, a fur-trader in the employ of the
+American Fur Company--later (1845), setting up in opposition to the
+company. Consult _Larpenteur's Journal_, i, p. 227.--ED.
+
+[251] See opposite page for illustration of Ponca Indians in buffalo
+robes.--ED.
+
+[252] The children of the North Americans resemble, in all respects,
+those of the Brazilians; I have mentioned the same circumstance of the
+Tapuyas of eastern Brazil, in the account of my travels in that
+country.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[253] For Manuel Lisa, see our volume v, p. 97, note 64. This creek,
+now called Emanuel, is in Bonhomme County, South Dakota, just above
+Springfield.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+VOYAGE FROM L'EAU QUI COURT TO FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON RIVER (THE
+LITTLE MISSOURI), AND STAY THERE, FROM MAY 13TH TO JUNE 4TH
+
+   Running-water River (l'eau qui court)--Punca Creek--Remarkable
+   Mountains--Cedar Island--Delay caused by the insufficient Depth
+   of the Water--First Sight of Buffaloes and Antelopes--Burning
+   Mountain--Black Strata of bituminous Coal--Bijoux Hills--Prairie
+   Dogs--Shannon, or Dry River--White River--Ruins of Cedar
+   Fort--Fort Look-out (Sioux Agency)--Visit to it--The Dacotas of
+   the Branch of the Yanktons--Wahktageli--Big Bend, or Grand
+   Detour--Medicine Hills--Teton River--Fort Pierre--Stay
+   there--The Tetons, a branch of the Dacotas or Sioux.
+
+
+On the morning of the 13th of May, the Yellow Stone passed the mouth
+of the Running-water River (l'eau qui court),[254] when the
+thermometer was at 55 deg. The Assiniboin was before us. We reached the
+mouth of Punca Creek, which runs along the chain of hills obliquely to
+the Missouri. At the time when the Puncas separated from the Omahas,
+they built a kind of fort of earth, some miles up this river, which,
+however, they no longer occupy. There are said to be hot springs in
+the neighbourhood, such as are known to exist in several places on the
+banks of the Missouri.[255] Springs of any kind are, however, very
+rare in these dry prairies. In this neighbourhood are many villages
+of the prairie dogs (_Arctomys ludoviciana_, Ord.), in the abandoned
+burrows of which, rattlesnakes abound. It has been affirmed that these
+two species of animals live peaceably together in these burrows; but
+observers of nature have proved that the snakes take possession of
+abandoned burrows only, which is in the usual course of things. Deep
+[pg. 142] gullies traverse the summits of the banks, above which the
+turkey buzzards were hovering. On a sudden, three Punca Indians
+appeared and hailed us; they were wrapped in their buffalo skins, and
+carried their bows and arrows on their shoulders. One of them had a
+very singular appearance, having bound up the hair of his head, so
+that it stood quite upright. Though they made signs to us to take them
+on board, we did not stop, but renounced the pleasure of more closely
+observing these interesting people. The trees on the edge of the
+prairie, by which we passed, were old, thick, and low, with their
+summits depressed and cramped. They were the resort of the Carolina
+pigeon, which is found all along the banks of the river. The red
+cedars, in particular, were stunted and crippled, often thicker than a
+man's body in the trunk, and very frequently wholly withered. The
+swallows' nests--numbers of which were built against the steep
+banks--were not yet inhabited. We were unable, on account of the
+shallowness, to reach a fine grove of poplars on the right bank, and
+proceeded along the hills of the left bank, which were seventy or
+eighty feet in height, where the red cedar abounded, and we stopped to
+fell a number of these trees. A wild lateral ravine here opened to the
+Missouri, up the steep sides of which our wood-cutters climbed, and
+cut down the cedars, which were loaded with their black berries. The
+wood of this tree emits a very aromatic scent, and it is much used by
+the steam-boats for fuel, because it supplies a great deal of steam,
+and the berries, as we were told, are eaten by the Indians for
+certain medicinal purposes. At the bottom of the narrow ravine, there
+was a thicket of elm, cedar, bird-cherry, clematis, celtis, celastrus,
+vine, and other shrubs; and the neighbouring lofty verdant hills of
+the prairie produced many beautiful plants, among which was _Stanleya
+pinnatifida_, with its splendid long bunches of yellow flowers.
+Returning to our vessel, when the bell gave the signal for departure,
+we found one of the three Punca Indians whom we had seen in the
+morning. He had taken advantage of our slow progress to overtake us.
+His hair hung down to his shoulders, and was tied together in a queue.
+His countenance was good-natured and friendly; he wore a buffalo robe,
+had a bow and arrows on his back, and, in his hand, a large hussar
+sabre, which he had received as a present. Major Bean gave him some
+tobacco, powder, lead, and ball; and after he had satisfied his
+craving appetite he returned, well satisfied, to his comrades. In the
+afternoon the country was by no means attractive, rather flat, and not
+so verdant; our vessel sustained many violent shocks. The chain of
+hills, in the distance, appeared in more and more singular forms,
+partly resembling ramparts and batteries, and then again perfectly
+flat, like table-land. An isolated, round, conical eminence, which is
+called the Tower, stands on them.[256] On the bank were, again,
+singularly stunted woods and thickets, probably kept down by the cold
+winds of the prairie. The soil and the whole character of the country
+was changed; on the Lower Missouri it was a black mould, and very
+fertile. Cedars flourished here, growing to the height of forty or
+fifty feet, yet they were often withered, or, at least, many had dry
+branches on their summits.
+
+[pg. 143] On the following morning, the 14th, we had a very difficult
+navigation, and were even obliged to put back, so that the Assiniboin
+overtook and passed us, and we followed it up the river on the north
+bank, and afterwards landed forty men to lighten the vessel; ran
+happily over a sand bank, and again passed the Assiniboin. In the
+preceding year, the whole prairie was seen from the steamer to be
+covered with herds of buffaloes, but now there were no living
+creatures, except a few wild geese and ducks, which had likewise
+become scarce, since the termination of the great forest below the La
+Platte River. The monotony of this rude landscape was, however, soon
+interrupted by the appearance of a canoe, in which were four white men
+rowing down the river. A boat was speedily manned, into which Mr.
+Mc Kenzie and Mr. Sandford went, well armed, in order to speak to them,
+because they were supposed to be _engages_ of the Company who were
+deserting. We were informed by them, that the Arikkaras, a dangerous
+Indian tribe, had lately murdered three beaver hunters, one of whom
+was a man named Glass, well known in the country, of whom I shall have
+occasion to speak in the sequel.[257]
+
+Upon an island, to which we came, was a real wilderness; the beavers
+had formed a kind of abattis, by felling poplars; another island was
+remarkable because there is a hot spring opposite to it, on the main
+land, the water of which has no mineral taste. On the left bank, about
+five or six miles below Cedar Island, we observed the remains of
+Indian huts. Mr. Mc Kenzie had met here, in the preceding year, a camp
+of the Punca Indians. On the steep banks were coloured stripes, or
+regular strata; some black, doubtless bituminous coal, others reddish
+brown, and, in several places, burnt black. Some parts had burnt very
+lately, and, in many places, had fallen in. Unhappily we were not able
+more closely to examine these remarkable strata. We fastened the
+vessel for the night to the western coast; and the lightning was very
+brilliant.
+
+On the following day, the 15th of May, we saw in the thickets, behind
+which the prairie extended, many traces of an Indian camp; heads of
+elks, stags, and other animals, were scattered about; the marks of
+horses' feet were everywhere visible; and a practicable trodden path
+led through the thickets. At noon, when the thermometer was at 77 deg.,
+the Assiniboin again passed us, and, with the keel-boat Maria,
+vanished from our sight. At four in the afternoon, we reached the
+place where we had stopped the preceding night, with the help of the
+keel-boat, which had returned, and at length succeeded in getting
+forward; but again had a storm of thunder and lightning. The whole
+country, beyond the banks, consisted of hills, rising one above the
+other; some covered with verdure, some of a yellowish colour, mostly
+without life and variety. While the lightning flashed from the dense
+black clouds, we again overtook the Assiniboin, which had landed its
+wood-cutters to fell some cedars on the steep mountain. We, too,
+landed 300 paces further up, to cut down cedars for fuel. At this
+place there was the narrow deep ravine of a small stream, now dry, in
+which we caught a pale yellow bat, and saw some snakes, and the
+scattered bones of buffaloes. We climbed from the bottom of the ravine
+up the singular [pg. 144] eminences of the prairie, and collected some
+interesting plants, particularly the wild turnip. Two species of
+cactus were not yet in blossom; they are, probably, not sufficiently
+known to botanists. One of them has been taken for the _Cactus
+opuntia_; and Captain Back,[258] too, says, that it is found on an
+island in the Lake of the Woods; but this is certainly not the
+above-named plant. On the highest elevation above the river, we
+enjoyed a remarkably fine prospect, while the sky was darkened by
+black thunder clouds. Around us was the amphitheatre of
+singularly-formed mountain-tops; at our feet lay the fine broad river,
+intersected by innumerable sand banks, which plainly showed us the
+difficulties of our navigation. On the banks, at so great a distance
+from the dwellings of civilized men, were two large vessels emitting
+volumes of steam. We were lost in the contemplation of this vast
+wilderness, when the bell summoned us on board. Our people had found a
+channel with five feet water, but it was so dark and foggy, that we
+were obliged to lie to early.
+
+On the following morning, the 16th of May, having passed a village of
+the prairie dogs, we reached, at nine o'clock, the Cedar Island, which
+is said to be 1,075 miles from the mouth of the Missouri.[259] On the
+steep banks of this long narrow island, which lies near the south-west
+bank, there were thickets of poplars, willows, and buffalo berry; the
+rest of the island is covered with a dark forest of red cedars, of
+which we immediately felled a good number. Their beautiful
+violet-coloured wood is traversed towards the edge by white veins, and
+is found very fit for ship-building. We crossed, with great pleasure,
+this wilderness of lofty cedars, the rough bark of which peels off of
+itself, and hangs down in long slips; many of them were withered,
+others broken and thrown down, or lying on the ground, covered with
+moss and lichens. The notes of numerous birds were heard in the gloom
+of this cedar forest, into which no ray of the sun could penetrate.
+Here, too, we found everywhere traces of the elks and stags, and saw
+where they had rubbed off the bark with their antlers. This may be
+considered as the limit to which the wild turkey extends on the
+Missouri. It is true that this bird is, now and then, found higher up,
+even on the Yellow Stone River; but these are exceptions, for beyond
+this place the woods are too open and exposed. The Indians, on the
+Upper Missouri, very readily barter for the tails of these fine birds,
+to use them as fans and ornaments, and Mr. Mc Kenzie, accordingly, took
+a good supply with him.
+
+On account of the high wind we were obliged to stop longer than we
+intended at Cedar Island, and took advantage of the delay to send out
+our hunters with their fowling-pieces. They brought back some birds,
+and a quadruped which was new to me. The wood-cutters had found, in a
+hollow tree, a nest of the large wood-rat, with four young ones. This
+fine animal has a tuft of hair at the end of its tail, and sometimes
+the whole tail is covered with hair. In colour and shape it resembles
+our Norway rat, and has not yet been mentioned as found on the
+Missouri, unless a couple of passages in Lewis and Clarke's Travels,
+which say, "very large rats were found here," refer to it.
+
+[pg. 145] On the morning of the 17th we saw the first antelopes, or
+cabris, half a dozen of which fled over the hills, but at so great a
+distance that we could not well distinguish them; we, however,
+subsequently had the pleasure of seeing one of these animals stop so
+long on the summit of the bank that we could very plainly observe it
+nearer at hand. It gazed for a long time at the steamer, appeared to
+be alarmed, trotted away, then stopped again, and disappeared behind
+the hills. The antelope becomes more and more common in this part of
+the country, and we saw several to-day, but the wishes of our hunters
+were disappointed. The Indians use the skin of these animals for
+clothing, but they are not very eager in the chase of the antelope,
+except where the buffalo is scarce. As, on sounding the channel, only
+four feet of water were found, the steamer was moored to the bank, and
+we took our fowling-pieces. With difficulty we penetrated through the
+thickets of poplar and willow on the bank, where the large tracks of
+the elks and of the Virginian deer were everywhere deeply imprinted in
+the soft soil. We then reached the prairie, which is perfectly level,
+and extends for 300 or 400 paces to the hills. It was covered with
+high grass, and clusters of many different plants. Our people
+traversed the prairies in all directions, looking for the pomme
+blanche, which was very common. Near the thickets we saw the pretty
+Carolina pigeon, seeking its food on the ground, but, when we
+approached, all the birds immediately flew out of the prairie, and
+sought refuge in the recesses of the thickets. We had a fine,
+starlight, cool evening.
+
+On the 18th we saw the first buffaloes that we had met with on this
+voyage. Several of our hunters were immediately landed to pursue them.
+They ascended into a ravine, and disappeared behind the hills. We also
+landed, at noon, when the thermometer was at 68 deg. Beyond the thickets
+on the bank, there were some old isolated trees in the prairie, in
+which, as well as in the tall plants, bushes, and grass, there were
+numerous birds. During the day, the mosquitoes (_Tipula_) were so
+troublesome in the wood, that we could scarcely load our pieces; it is
+said that, in the height of summer, this nuisance is still more
+intolerable. The buffalo hunters returned to the vessel at the same
+time with us; they had, indeed, missed their object, but had killed a
+large buck antelope, as well as a great many prairie dogs, the heads
+of which were all mutilated by the rifle balls. As these little
+animals retreat to their burrows, on the approach of any strange
+object, and only put out their heads, the Americans, with their long
+rifles, generally hit them in this part: they are a favourite food
+among them. Our men brought back the skin and the head, as well as the
+flesh of the antelope which they had killed: they likewise brought me
+a fine grey eagle and a serpent (_Col. eximus_). The river being so
+shallow, we were not able to proceed on the following day, and
+continued our excursions on shore. I often passed my time in the lofty
+and shady forest which extended beyond the willow thickets on the
+banks, at the border of the open prairie. Sitting on an old trunk, in
+the cool shade, I could observe at leisure the surrounding scene. I
+saw the turkey buzzards, that hovered above the hills, contending
+against the high wind, while a couple of falcons frequently made a
+stoop at them, doubtless to defend [pg. 146] their nest. A couple of
+ravens likewise flew about them. The red-eyed finch, the beautiful
+_Sylvia aestiva_, the _Sylvia striata_, and the wren, flew around me,
+the latter singing very prettily. If I passed beyond the prairie
+hills, I found the ground, on the long-extended ridge, covered with
+the blue flowers of the _Oxitropis Lamberti_ (Pursh.), which grew in
+tufts about a foot high. There, too, I saw dens of the foxes and
+wolves. I saw a fine bird which we had not before met with, namely,
+the prairie hen (_Tetrao phasianellus_), a pair of which rose before
+me, and of which I first shot the cock. These birds are found in
+considerable numbers from this place up to the Rocky Mountains. In the
+daytime we suffered great heat in these excursions, while there was
+also a high wind, and the ground was hard and dry; the soles of our
+shoes became so polished on this ground and the hard dry grass, that
+it was difficult and fatiguing to walk on the slopes. We were forced
+to remain here many days, because the water was very shallow, and,
+during this time, we had several violent thunder-storms. It is a
+peculiarity of this part of the country that, in spring, rain, storms,
+and tempests prevail, while the summer and autumn are, in general,
+very dry. All the small streams in the extensive prairies then dry up,
+and there is a general want of water, except in the vicinity of the
+large rivers.
+
+On the 21st of May it was so cool that we were obliged to have fires
+in the cabins; the river had risen a little, and we endeavoured to
+proceed. Captain Pratte, of the Assiniboin, came on board with a man
+named May, a beaver hunter, who had left Fort Union, on the Yellow
+Stone, in March. He confirmed the account of the murder of the three
+men by the Arikkaras, and added the still more alarming intelligence,
+that thirteen of the Company's _engages_ had been killed by the
+Blackfoot Indians. He said that the herds of buffaloes had left the
+Missouri, and had been followed by the Sioux Indians, so that we must
+expect to see only a few of them on the river. The keel-boat of the
+Assiniboin had taken part of our cargo on board on the 22nd, and, as
+there was rather more depth of water, the Yellow Stone had been got
+afloat, after a delay of five days in this shallow place. We happened
+to be on the hills when the bell summoned us on board, and hastened as
+quickly as possible to the bank, but came too late, and were compelled
+to follow the vessel for a couple of hours, clambering over fragments
+of stone, pieces of rock, to creep through thickets full of thorns and
+burrs, or to wade through morasses; and not till eleven o'clock did
+we get on board. The hills on both sides of the river were of singular
+forms; some of them were crowned with rocks resembling ancient towers
+and ruins. The eminences had some dark spots, caused by black shining
+strata of coal. Many of these strata had been on fire, and one of them
+was extinguished only last year, after having burnt more than three
+years. Such a thick stratum of bituminous coal ran in a well-defined
+stripe on both sides of the river, at an equal elevation, along all
+the hills, as far as the eye could reach; and it is not difficult to
+follow this stratum for many hundred miles; it is only interrupted, at
+intervals, by ravines. Some lofty hills, hereabouts, are called Bijoux
+Hills, after a person of that name, who resided here many years.[260]
+[pg. 147] The next morning we found the Assiniboin at the foot of these
+hills. Our steamer could not be moved till noon, and then did not
+proceed far, but lay to near a sand bank. On the morning of the 24th,
+Major Bean left us, accompanied by Mr. Bodmer, to go by land to Sioux
+Agency, or Fort Lookout, where he intended to wait for us. He had
+procured saddle-horses from that place. As we expected the keel-boat,
+to lighten the ship, we had time to go ashore and make an excursion
+inland. At eleven o'clock the bell summoned us to return. The vessel
+was made to drop about 2,000 paces down the river, and then, with much
+exertion, to proceed along the north-east bank, where we found the
+Maria keel-boat, which had likewise run aground, but had been got
+afloat by its crew, who laboured up to their waists in water, while
+the people were lightening our steamer. Mr. Mc Kenzie and myself went
+on shore to explore the neighbouring eminences, where we found many
+rare plants. The geology and mineralogy of these hills are likewise
+interesting. The surface consists of clay of various colours, partly
+resembling lithomarge; plates and fragments of foliated gypsum were
+scattered around, and seemed to stand out in the clay. When we reached
+the bare sterile heights which belong to the black burnt
+stratifications, I found the soil quite different from what it had
+appeared to me when I looked at it from below. The whole consists of a
+clay, which has undergone the effects of fire, and is partly burnt
+black on the surface. We saw no living creatures on these bare
+heights, except the finch (_Fringilla grammaca_), first described by
+Say. Several caves or dens of wolves, foxes, and marmots, were
+observed in the declivities of the hills. Between four and five
+o'clock, the keel-boat having been sent on before, the Yellow Stone
+proceeded along the northeast bank. Near the Shannon, or Dry River,
+the sun sank behind the poplar wood on the bank, and we lay to for the
+night. From the Shannon, the mouth of which is on the west side, the
+territory of the Sioux nations is reckoned to extend up the Missouri.
+On the east bank, as I have observed, it begins much sooner.
+
+At five o'clock, on the following morning, the 25th of May, we had
+already reached the White River,[261] and at noon came to a place
+where the Cedar Fort, a trading post of the Missouri Fur Company, had
+formerly stood. When the Company was dissolved, this and other
+settlements were abandoned, and demolished by the Indians.[262]
+Directly opposite, on the east bank, a stratum of earth burnt till
+1823, in consequence of which a large portion of a hill fell, and now
+stands isolated before the bank; it is seventy or eighty feet high,
+and 150 feet long. In the course of the day we came to a place where
+an Arikkara village had formerly stood, on the ridge of the hills,
+which was destroyed by the Sioux, and the inhabitants expelled.
+Opposite to this was Fort Lookout, where the French Fur Trading
+Company had a post. A little further up the river we saw, on the
+hills, some burying-places of the Sioux Indians; most of them were
+formed of a high platform, on four stakes, on which the corpse, sewn
+up in skins, lies at full length; others consisted of stakes and
+brushwood, like a kind of hedge, in the middle of which the deceased
+is buried in the ground. We were told that the son of a chief was
+buried in one of the latter, in a [pg. 148] standing posture. On a point
+of land, at the left hand, round which the Missouri turns to the west,
+we saw the buildings of Sioux Agency; the Yellow Stone saluted the
+post with several guns, and was welcomed to the fort by the hoisting
+of a flag, while the whole population, about fifty in number, chiefly
+consisting of Sioux Indians, were assembled on the beach. We greeted
+our friends Major Bean and Mr. Bodmer, and proceeded a mile further,
+to an extensive forest, where we took in wood, and stopped for the
+night. In order to get acquainted with the Sioux, in whom I took so
+much interest, I returned, in a heavy rain, through the bushes and
+high grass, to the agency, where Major Bean received me very kindly,
+though his dwelling, according to the fashion of the place, was rudely
+constructed, and he was incommoded by too many visitors.
+
+Sioux Agency, or, as it is now usually called, Fort Lookout, is a
+square, of about sixty paces, surrounded by pickets, twenty or thirty
+feet high, made of squared trunks of trees, placed close to each
+other, within which the dwellings are built close to the palisades.
+These dwellings consisted of only three block-houses, with several
+apartments. Close to the fort, in a northern direction, the Fur
+Company of Mr. Soublette had a dwelling-house, with a store; and, in
+the opposite direction, was a similar post of the American Fur
+Company.[263] The fort is agreeably situated on a green spot, near the
+river, partly covered with bushes, and partly open, bounded by hills,
+beyond which the prairie extends, first, with a few old trees, and
+some wooded spots, but soon assuming its peculiar bare character.
+About ten leather tents or huts of the Sioux, of the branch of the
+Yanktons or Yanktoans, were set up near the fort.[264]
+
+The Dacotas, as they call themselves, or the Sioux of the French,
+called by the Ojibuas or Chippeways, Nandoesi (which has been
+corrupted into Nadowassis), are still one of the most numerous Indian
+tribes in North America. Pike stated their number at 21,575 souls, and
+they are still reckoned at 20,000; nay, some even affirm, that they
+are still able to furnish 15,000 warriors, which seems rather too high
+an estimate. Major Long, who gives much information respecting this
+people, calculates their number at 28,100, of which 7,055 are
+warriors, the nation possessing 2,330 tents, which agrees pretty
+nearly with the statements we received on the Missouri. If we add the
+Assiniboins, who are of the same origin, and who are estimated at
+28,000, we shall have for all the Dacotas, 56,100 souls, of whom
+14,055 are warriors, and the number of their tents 5,330. Major Long
+is of opinion that they cannot be calculated at less than 25,000
+souls, and 6,000 warriors; 20,000 is, therefore, not too high an
+estimate.
+
+The territory which they inhabit extends from Big Sioux River, between
+the Missouri and the Mississippi, down the latter to Rock River, and
+northwards to Elk River; then westwards, in a line which includes the
+sources of St. Peter's River, and reaches the Missouri below the
+Mandan villages, stretches down it, crosses it near Heart River, and
+includes the whole country on the western bank, to the Black Hills
+about Teton River, as far as Shannon River. The Sioux are divided into
+several branches, which all speak the same language, with some
+deviations. [pg. 149] Three principal branches live on the Missouri,
+viz., the Yanktons, or Yanktoans, the Tetons, or Titoans, and the
+Yanktonans, or Yanktoanons. The Mende-Wakan-Toann, or the people of
+the Spirit Lake, and some others, live on the Mississippi. All these
+branches together are, as Major Long says, divided by the traders into
+two great classes--the Gens du Lac and the Gens du Large; _i.e._,
+those who live near the Spirit Lake, and are now chiefly found on the
+banks of the Mississippi, and those who roam about in the prairies.
+The Yanktoanons are said to constitute one-fifth of all the Dacotas,
+and the Tetons the half of the whole nation.[265]
+
+The Dacotas roam as far as the territory of the Puncas, over the Black
+Hills, to the Arkansa, and westwards to the Rocky Mountains, into the
+territory of the Crows, on the Yellow Stone River, &c. Pike makes
+them, as well as the Pawnees, descend from the Tartars; but many
+objections may be made to this notion, as the affinity of the North
+Americans and the people of Asia is not proved, and the resemblance
+between them appears to be very limited. In general, these Indians
+have more strongly-marked countenances and higher cheek-bones than
+many other tribes on the Missouri, nor are their features so regular
+or pleasing, yet there is no considerable difference in their
+physiognomy. Bradbury says they are much inferior in stature to the
+Osages, Mandans, and Puncas, and by no means so robust; but this
+assertion must be very much restricted, because there are many tall
+men among the Dacotas. The Yanktons live in Sioux Agency, or the
+furthest down the Missouri, among which tribe we now were. All these
+Dacotas of the Missouri, as well as most of those of the Mississippi,
+are only hunters, and, in their excursions, always live in portable
+leather tents. Only two branches of them are exceptions to this rule,
+especially the Wahch-Pe-Kutch, on the Mississippi, who cultivate maize
+and other plants, and therefore live in fixed villages. All these
+Indians have great numbers of horses and dogs, the latter of which
+often serve them as food. The Dacotas, on the Missouri, were formerly
+dangerous enemies to the Whites. Bradbury calls them blood-thirsty
+savages; whereas now, with the exception of the Yanktonans, they bear
+a very good character, and constantly keep peace with the Whites. Pike
+seems to have too high an idea of their valour; at least, this is the
+opinion now entertained on the Missouri. Such of these Indians as
+reside near the Whites, are frequently connected with them by
+marriages, and depend on them for support. They then become negligent
+hunters, indolent, and, consequently, poor. This was partly the case
+at Sioux Agency, where they rarely possessed more than two horses. One
+of the most considerable men among them, wholly devoted to the Whites,
+was Wahktageli, called the Big Soldier, a tall, good-looking man,
+about sixty years of age, with a high aquiline nose, and large
+animated eyes. Besides him, there were several elderly, and some
+slender young men of this nation, here. They had, in general, a rather
+narrow, oval countenance, narrow, long eyes, and aquiline, or
+straight, well-formed noses; their colour was a dark brown. They wore
+their hair hanging down long over the shoulders, and often plaited _en
+queue_; the older men, however, let it hang loosely, cut off a little
+below the [pg. 150] neck, and turned back from the forehead. Younger
+people generally wore it parted, a large lock hanging down on the
+nose; young men had the upper part of the body only wrapped in their
+large white or painted buffalo hides. They had long strings of blue
+and white wampum shells in their ears; some of them wore one, two, or
+three feathers, which were partly stripped till towards the
+point.[266]
+
+  [Illustration: Method of wearing hair]
+
+Mr. Bodmer having expressed a wish, immediately on the arrival of the
+Big Soldier, to paint his portrait at full length, he appeared in his
+complete state dress. His face was painted red with vermilion, and
+with short, black, parallel, transverse stripes on the cheeks. On his
+head he wore long feathers of birds of prey, which were tokens of his
+warlike exploits, particularly of the enemies he had slain. They were
+fastened in a horizontal position with strips of red cloth. In his
+ears he wore long strings of blue glass beads, and, on his breast,
+suspended from his neck, the great silver medal of the United States.
+His leather leggins, painted with dark crosses and stripes, were very
+neatly ornamented with a broad embroidered stripe of yellow, red, and
+sky-blue figures, consisting of dyed porcupine quills, and his shoes
+were adorned in the same manner. His buffalo robe was tanned white,
+and he had his tomahawk or battle-axe in his hand.[267] He appeared to
+stand very willingly as a [pg. 151] model for Mr. Bodmer, and remained
+the whole day in the position required, which, in general, the Indians
+find it difficult to do. The remainder of these people were now
+entirely without ornaments, naked, and the upper parts of their
+bodies not at all painted, but only wrapped in their buffalo robes. On
+their backs they carried their quivers, which were made of leather, in
+which their arrows are kept; they carry their bows in their
+hands.[268]
+
+  [Illustration: Bows, arrows, and quiver]
+
+The features of the women resembled, on the whole, those we have
+already described, yet their faces, for the most part, were not so
+broad and flat as those of the Saukies, or Musquake women, and some
+were even pretty. The tents of the Sioux are high pointed cones, made
+of strong poles, covered with buffalo skins, closely sewed together.
+These skins are scraped on both sides, so that they become as
+transparent as parchment, and give free admission to the light. At the
+top, where the poles meet, or cross each other, there is an opening,
+to let out the smoke, which they endeavour to close by a piece of the
+skin covering of the tent, fixed to a separate pole standing upright,
+and fastened to the upper part of the covering on the side from which
+the wind blows. The door is a slit, in the front of the tent, which is
+generally closed by another piece of buffalo hide, stretched upon a
+frame.[269] A small fire is kept up in the centre of the tent. Poles
+are stuck in the ground, near the tent, and utensils of various kinds
+are suspended from them. There are, likewise, stages, on which to hang
+the newly-tanned hides; others, with gaily-painted parchment pouches
+and bags,[270] on some of which they hang their bows, arrows, quivers,
+leather shields, spears, and war clubs.
+
+  [Illustration: Tents of the Sioux]
+
+We paid a visit to Wahktageli in his tent, and had some difficulty in
+creeping into the narrow, low entrance, after pulling aside the skin
+that covered it. The inside of this tent was [pg. 152] light, and it was
+about ten paces in diameter. Buffalo skins were spread on the ground,
+upon which we sat down. Between us and the side of the tent were a
+variety of articles, such as pouches, boxes, saddles, arms, &c. A
+relation of the chief was employed in making arrows, which were
+finished very neatly, and with great care. Wahktageli immediately,
+with much gravity, handed the tobacco-pipe round, and seemed to inhale
+the precious smoke with great delight. His wife was present; their
+children were married. The conversation was carried on by Cephier, the
+interpreter kept by the Agency, who accompanied us on this visit. It
+is the custom with all the North American Indians, on paying a visit,
+to enter in perfect silence, to shake hands with the host, and
+unceremoniously sit down beside him. Refreshments are then presented,
+which the Big Soldier could not do, as he himself stood in need of
+food. After this the pipe circulates. The owner of a neighbouring tent
+had killed a large elk, the skin of which the women were then busily
+employed in dressing. They had stretched it out, by means of leather
+straps, on the ground near the tent, and the women were scraping off
+the particles of flesh and fat with a very well-contrived instrument.
+It is made of bone, sharpened at one end, and furnished with little
+teeth like a saw, and, at the other end, a strap, which is fastened
+round the wrist. The skin is scraped with the sharp side of this
+instrument till it is perfectly clean.[271] Several Indians have iron
+teeth fixed to this bone. Besides this operation, we took particular
+notice of the harness of the dogs and horses, hanging up near the
+tent, both these animals being indispensable to the Indians to
+transport their baggage on their journeys. Even the great tent, with
+many long, heavy poles, is carried by horses, as well as the
+semi-globular, transparent wicker panniers, under which the little
+children are protected against sun and rain, by spreading blankets and
+skins over them. Smaller articles are conveyed by the dogs, as we
+shall relate in the sequel. Many of the Sioux are rich, and have
+twenty or more horses, which they obtained originally from the
+Spaniards on the Mississippi, and the frontier of New Mexico on the
+Oregon, but which are now found in great numbers among the several
+Indian nations. One of their most important employments is to steal
+horses, and the theft of one of these animals, from another nation, is
+considered as an exploit, and as much, nay more honoured than the
+killing of an enemy. The dogs, whose flesh is eaten by the Sioux, are
+equally valuable to the Indians. In shape they differ very little from
+the wolf, and are equally large and strong. Some are of the real wolf
+colour; others black, white, or spotted with black and white, and
+differing only by the tail being rather more turned up. Their voice is
+not a proper barking, but a howl, like that of the wolf, and they
+partly descend from wolves, which approach the Indian huts, even in
+the daytime, and mix with the dogs.
+
+Among the peculiar customs of the Sioux is their treatment of the
+dead. Those who die [pg. 153] at home are sewed up, as I have before
+stated, in blankets and skins, in their complete dress, painted, and
+laid with their arms and other effects on a high stage, supported by
+four poles, till they are decomposed, when they are sometimes buried.
+Those who have been killed in battle are immediately interred on the
+spot. Sometimes, too, in times of peace, they bury their dead in the
+ground, and protect them against the wolves by a fence of wood and
+thorns. There were many such graves in the vicinity of the Sioux
+Agency, among which was that of the celebrated chief, Tschpunka, who
+was buried with his full dress and arms, and his face painted red.
+Very often, however, they lay their dead in trees; and we saw, in the
+neighbourhood of this place, an oak, in which there were three bodies
+wrapped in skins. At the foot of the tree there was a small arbour, or
+shed, made of branches of poplar, which the relations had built for
+the purpose of coming to lament and weep over the dead, which they
+frequently do for several days successively. As a sign of mourning,
+they cut off their hair with the first knife that comes to hand, daub
+themselves with white clay, and give away all their best clothes and
+valuable effects, as well as those of the deceased, to the persons who
+happen to be present. The corpse of a young woman had been enveloped
+in skins about a week before, and placed between the branches of the
+oak, with six pieces of wood under it; and a little higher in the tree
+there was a child. Guided by the obliging interpreter, we viewed
+everything remarkable in the Sioux agency, which, indeed, is confined
+to the Indians and their mode of life. Major Bean had the kindness to
+accommodate us for the night.
+
+We passed the 26th of May here, when Mr. Bodmer finished his very
+capital likeness of Wahktageli. The elk, killed by the Indians,
+furnished us with fresh meat, and we considered ourselves very well
+off. In the afternoon, Messrs. Mc Kenzie and Sandford came from the
+Yellow Stone to visit us, and we returned on board in the evening.
+
+The following morning (27th) was cool, windy, and cloudy, and, at
+half-past seven, the thermometer at only 54 deg. It was so cold that we
+had fires in our cabins the whole day. Major Bean had the courtesy to
+present me with the complete dress of the Big Soldier, an interesting
+_souvenir_ of the friendly reception we had met with in his house. The
+Assiniboin passed us rapidly in the afternoon, and we followed. A
+well-known Sioux chief, called Tukan Haton, and, by the Americans, the
+Little Soldier, was on board with his family, intending to accompany
+us to Fort Pierre, on the Teton River. These Indians were in mourning
+for some of their relations lately deceased; their dress was,
+therefore, as bad as possible, and their faces daubed with white clay.
+The Big Soldier also paid us a visit previous to our departure. He had
+no feathers on his head, but only a piece of red cloth. After
+receiving some food he took leave, and we saw the grotesque, tall
+figure stand for a long time motionless on the beach. As the vessel
+proceeded very quickly, our Indians laid down their heads as a sign
+that they were giddy, but they were soon relieved, as the water became
+shallow. We lay to not far above the stream which [pg. 154] Lewis and
+Clarke call the Three Rivers.[272] Here we again had leisure to make
+an excursion in the wood, where the ground was covered with pea vine
+(_Apios tuberosa_),[273] and a plant resembling convallaria. The
+Carolina pigeon was frequent here, and was sought after by our people
+for their dinner, to which the river contributed some cat-fish, of the
+usual olive-brown kind. Our Indians kindled their fire in the
+neighbouring wood, and lay around it, but soon returned to the vessel.
+
+Early on the 28th, part of the goods had been put into the keel-boat,
+to lighten the steamer, which was accomplished by eight o'clock. From
+this place to the Big Bend of the Missouri is fifteen miles, before
+reaching which we came to an island, which has been formed since Lewis
+and Clarke were there. The same stratum of coal, which I have before
+mentioned, ran along the hills, and was visible at a great distance.
+We soon overtook the Assiniboin, and reached the Big Bend which the
+Missouri takes round a flat point of land; following the course of
+the river, it is twenty-five miles round, while the isthmus is only
+one mile and a half across.[274] The large peninsula, round which the
+Missouri turns, is flat, and bordered with poplars and willows; the
+opposite bank is higher, steep, and bare. A couple of antelopes were,
+in this place, frightened by the noise of our steamer; these animals
+are said to be very numerous here in the winter time. The Little
+Soldier sat by the fireside, smoking his pipe, in doing which, like
+all the Indians, he inhaled the smoke, a custom which is, doubtless,
+the cause of many pectoral diseases. The tobacco, which the Indians of
+this part of the country smoke, is called kini-kenick, and consists of
+the inner green bark of the red willow, dried, and powdered, and mixed
+with the tobacco of the American traders. According to Say, they also
+smoke the leaves of the arrow-wood (_Viburnum_), when they have none
+of the bark.
+
+On the 29th, we were nearly at the end of the Big Bend, and stopped,
+at seven o'clock in the morning, to cut down cedars. Here we ascended
+the lofty, steep hills, which were partly bare, and burnt black, and
+from which we had a view of the whole bend of the river. To the south,
+we saw the tops of the Medicine Hills, which are about eight miles
+from the Medicine Creek, on the west bank.[275] Towards noon there
+appeared, on the western bank, steep, rocky walls, and, behind them,
+singularly-formed hills, some resembling pyramids, others, round
+towers, &c. At this place we suddenly espied a canoe, with four men
+in it, which touched at a sand bank; a boat was put out, and brought
+back two of the strangers, who proved to be Mr. Lamont, a member of
+the Fur Company, and Major Mitchell, one of their officers, and
+Director of Fort Mc Kenzie, which is situated near the falls of the
+Missouri.[276] They came last from Fort Pierre, and were on their way
+to St. Louis, but we persuaded them to return with us. Having taken in
+[pg. 155] wood on the morning of the 30th, we came to a leather tent on
+the bank, in which three of the Company's _engages_ and some Indians
+lived, to take care of 100 horses, belonging to Fort Pierre. They had
+lately killed three antelopes, and gave us some of the fresh meat. At
+seven o'clock we had, on the right hand, Simoneau's Island, which, in
+Lewis and Clarke's map, is called Elk Island; it was covered with
+lofty, green poplars.[277] Soon after twelve o'clock we came to a
+plantation, made by the inhabitants of Fort Pierre, where we found
+about ten men, who had got ready a great quantity of fine stack wood
+for our vessel. At this place, which is only three miles from the
+fort, we observed hills, of a singular form, often cleft
+perpendicularly, and, in the river, several islands, all of which have
+now different names from those given to them by Lewis and Clarke.
+Before six, in the evening, we reached the mouth of the Teton River,
+or the Little Missouri, which the Sioux call the Bad River. It rises
+in the Black Hills, and has a long course, with many windings; but is
+said, however, to be straight for 150 miles from the mouth. In this
+part of the Missouri are vast sand banks, on which we saw a numerous
+flock of pelicans. These birds, however, only stop here on their
+passage, and do not build their nests. The river is very wide at the
+mouth of the Teton, and has extensive low prairies, with a border of
+poplars and willows. The French Fur Company had formerly a fort just
+above the mouth of the Teton, which was abandoned when the Companies
+joined, and another built further up, which was called Fort Teton;
+this, too, was abandoned;[278] and Fort Pierre (so called after Mr.
+Pierre Chouteau) was erected higher up, on the west bank, opposite an
+island.[279]
+
+The steamer had proceeded a little further, when we came in sight of
+the Fort, to the great joy of all on board: the colours were hoisted,
+both on the steamer and on the fort, which produced a very good effect
+between the trees on the bank; a small village, consisting of thirteen
+Sioux tents, lay on the left hand. Our steamer first began to salute
+with its cannon, which was returned from the shore by a running fire
+of musketry, and this was answered from our deck by a similar very
+brisk fire. Before we reached the landing-place, we perceived an
+isolated, decayed old house, the only remains of Fort Tecumseh,[280]
+and, ten minutes afterwards, landed at Fort Pierre, on the fifty-first
+day of our voyage from St. Louis. A great crowd came to welcome us; we
+were received by the whole population, consisting of some hundred
+persons, with the white inhabitants at their head, the chief of whom
+was Mr. Laidlow, a proprietor of the Fur Company, who has the
+management at this place.[281] There were many Indians among them, who
+had done their part to welcome us by firing their muskets, which they
+carried in their hands. There seemed to be no end of shaking hands; a
+thousand questions were asked, and the latest news, on both sides, was
+eagerly sought for. Mr. Fontenelle, who was to undertake a journey to
+the Rocky Mountains, was already here, having performed the journey,
+on horseback, in eleven days. As soon as we set foot on land, we
+proceeded, accompanied by numbers of persons, to the Fort, to which
+there is a straight road of about a quarter of a mile. We put up at
+Mr. Laidlow's house, where we rested beside a good fire.
+
+  [Illustration: Plan of Fort Pierre]
+
+[pg. 156] Fort Pierre is one of the most considerable settlements of the
+Fur Company on the Missouri, and forms a large quadrangle, surrounded
+by high pickets,[282] round which the buildings stand in the manner
+already described. At the north-east and south-west corners there are
+block-houses, with embrasures, _f_, _f_, the fire of which commands
+the curtain; the upper story is adapted for small arms, and the lower
+for some cannon; each side of the quadrangle is 108 paces in length;
+the front and back, _g_, _g_, each 114 paces; the inner space
+eighty-seven paces in diameter. From the roof of the block-houses,
+which is surrounded with a gallery, there is a fine prospect over the
+prairie; and there is a flag-staff on the roof, on which the colours
+are hoisted. The timber for this fort was felled from forty to sixty
+miles up the river, and floated down, because none fit for the purpose
+was to be had in the neighbourhood. Mr. Laidlow's dwelling-house, _d_,
+_d_, consisted of one story only, but was very conveniently arranged,
+with large rooms, fire-places, and glass windows. Next this house was
+a smaller building, _e_, for the office and the residence of a clerk.
+The other clerks, the interpreters for the different Indian nations,
+the _engages_ and their families, altogether above 100 persons, lived
+in the other buildings, _a_, _a_, _a_, _a_. Opposite, in _c_, _c_,
+were the stores, at that time of the value of 80,000 dollars; and in
+other rooms, the furs obtained from the Indians by barter. The fort
+has two large doors, _g_, _g_, opposite each other, which are shut in
+the evening; in _b_ there was an enclosed piece of garden ground. The
+situation of the settlement is agreeable; the verdant prairie is very
+extensive, animated by herds of cattle and horses; of the latter, Fort
+Pierre possessed 150, and of the former, thirty-six, which afforded a
+sufficient supply of milk and fresh butter. Indians, on foot and on
+horseback, were scattered all over the plain, and their singular
+stages for the dead were in great numbers near the Fort; immediately
+behind which, the leather tents of the Sioux Indians, of the branches
+of the Tetons and the Yanktons, stood, like a little village; among
+them the most distinguished was the tent of the old interpreter,
+Dorion, a half Sioux, who is mentioned by many travellers, and resides
+here with his Indian family.[283] This tent was large, and painted
+red; at the top of the poles composing [pg. 157] it some scalps
+fluttered in the wind. A great number of Indian dogs surrounded this
+village, which did not differ from those we have already described.
+Many of them were perfectly similar to the wolf in form, size, and
+colour; they did not bark, but showed their teeth when any one
+approached them.
+
+Near the fort we roused, in the thickets, a Virginian deer, and saw
+wolves, in the middle of the day, prowling about in the prairies; but
+we could not get near them, and fired at them in vain with our rifles.
+Round an isolated tree in the prairie I observed a circle of holes in
+the ground, in which thick poles had stood. A number of buffalo skulls
+were piled up there; and we were told that this was a medicine, or
+charm, contrived by the Indians in order to entice the herds of
+buffaloes. Everywhere in the plain we saw circles of clods of earth,
+with a small circular ditch, where the tents of many Indians had
+stood. This time we visited the Indian tents uninvited; in that which
+we first entered there were several tall, good-looking men assembled;
+the owner of the tent was a man of middle-size; his complexion very
+light, and his features agreeable. His wives were dressed very neatly,
+and were remarkably clean, especially the one who appeared to be the
+principal; she wore a very elegant leather dress, with stripes and
+borders of azure and white beads, and polished metal buttons, and
+trimmed as usual at the bottom with fringes, round the ends of which
+lead is twisted, so that they tinkle at every motion. Her summer robe,
+which was dressed smooth on both sides, was painted red and black, on
+a yellowish white ground.[284] She estimated all these articles of
+dress very highly. Among the effects piled up inside the tent, there
+were several interesting things, such as cradles for the infants,
+viz., ornamented boards, to which they are fastened with broad
+leathern straps, one passing over the head, and the other over the
+middle of the body. The workmanship of these leathern straps was
+remarkably neat and curious; for instance, they were entirely covered
+with a ground of milk-white porcupine quills, on which figures of men,
+of a vermilion colour, and black figures of dogs, and other similar
+patterns, were most tastefully embroidered, and all of the most lively
+and well-chosen colours. After we had conversed with the men, the pipe
+circulated. The pipes of [pg. 158] the Dacotas are very beautiful,[285]
+in truth the most beautiful of all the North American Indians, which
+they make, in various forms, of the red indurated clay, or stone.[286]
+
+  [Illustration: Dakota pipes]
+
+The pipe has a long, flat, broad wooden tube, which is ornamented with
+tufts of horse-hair, dyed red, yellow, or green, and wound round with
+strings of porcupine quills of divers colours. We looked at the women
+as they were at work. For the shoes which they made they had softened
+the leather in a tub of water, and stretched it in the breadth and
+length with their teeth. In the middle of the hut was a fire, over
+which the kettle was suspended by a wooden hook; they now all use iron
+kettles, which they obtain from the traders. Before most of the tents
+poles were placed, leaning against each other, to which gaily-painted
+parchment pouches were hung, and likewise the medicine-bags, as they
+are called, in which the medicine, or charms, are preserved, and which
+they open and consult only on solemn or important occasions, such as
+campaigns and the like. Here, too, were suspended the bow and quiver
+of arrows, spears, and a round shield of thick leather, with a thin
+cover, also of the same material. In another tent the women were
+dressing the skins, either with a pumice-stone, or with the
+before-described toothed instrument, which was here entirely of iron.
+They then pulled the skin over a line, in all directions, backwards
+and forwards, to make it pliable.
+
+The Sioux at Fort Pierre were in general slender, sometimes
+muscular-men, of middling stature, though some of them were tall.
+They had oval faces, with prominent cheek-bones, slightly-curved and
+well-formed noses; the inner angle of the eye often drawn down. Their
+faces were painted red, some with white rings round the eyes, and
+others with a black point on the forehead, or a white circle with a
+black point on each cheek. Some had strings of wampum in their ears,
+but the greater part of them strings of white or blue glass beads, and
+round their necks an elegant, and frequently broad necklace,
+embroidered with white beads. The neck and breast of several were
+marked with dark blue tattooed stripes, or only with some small
+figures. These Indians let their hair grow as long as possible, and
+plait it behind in a long tail, which is ornamented with round pieces
+of brass, and often hangs down to a great length, as among the
+Chinese. Many of the Dacotas have three such tails, one behind, and
+one at each side, for the Indians on the Upper Missouri take much
+pride in long hair, whereas those in the country lower [pg. 159] down
+the river, cut it short. Some wore feathers in their hair, which are
+tokens of their exploits, and are determined with great precision,
+according to the merit of the wearer. The annexed figure of a Dacota
+shows the manner in which the hair is divided into plaits.[287]
+
+  [Illustration: A Dakota, with plaited hair]
+
+The women wore their hair hanging down, naturally parted on the middle
+of the head, and the parting painted red. Their robes were coloured
+red and black. Their shoes are neatly ornamented with various figures
+made of dyed porcupine quills. I purchased several Dacota shoes; and,
+among them, a pair, on the upper part of which the figure of a bear's
+footstep was very neatly embroidered in bright colours.[288] The old
+women are generally very ugly and dirty, as they are obliged to do
+very hard work.
+
+The Sioux, who live on Teton River, near Fort Pierre, are mostly of
+the branch of the Tetons; though there are some Yanktons here. The
+former are divided into five branches, and the latter into three.[289]
+Like all the North American Indians, they highly prize personal
+bravery, and, therefore, constantly wear the marks of distinction
+which they have received for their exploits; among these are,
+especially, tufts of human hair attached to their arms and legs, and
+feathers on their heads. He who, in the sight of the adversaries,
+touches a slain or a living enemy, places a feather horizontally in
+his hair for this exploit. They look upon this as a very distinguished
+act, for many are often killed in the attempt, before the object is
+attained. He who kills an enemy by a blow with his fist, sticks a
+feather upright in his hair. If the enemy is killed with a musket, a
+small piece of wood is put in the hair, which is intended to represent
+a ramrod. If a warrior is distinguished by many deeds, he has a right
+to wear the great feather-cap, with ox-horns, [pg. 160] which will be
+described in the sequel. This cap, composed of eagle's feathers, which
+are fastened to a long strip of red cloth, hanging down the back, is
+highly valued by all the tribes on the Missouri, and they never part
+with it except for a good horse. In a battle with the Pawnees, a Sioux
+chief was killed, who wore such a cap; the conqueror wore it as a
+trophy, and the Sioux recognized him by it in the next battle; they
+made great efforts to kill him, and succeeded in wounding him; but his
+horse was too fleet for them, and he always escaped. Whoever first
+discovers the enemy, and gives notice to his comrades of their
+approach, is allowed to wear a small feather, which is stripped,
+except towards the top.[290] The scalps taken in battle are drawn
+over small hoops, and hung on the top of the tent-poles. He who takes
+a prisoner wears a particular bracelet. These Indians frequently
+possess from thirty to forty horses, and are then reckoned to be rich.
+The tents are generally composed of fourteen skins, each worth two
+dollars. We were told, that wealthy people sometimes have eight or
+nine wives, because they are able to support them. The Sioux do not
+understand the treatment of diseases, but generally cure wounds very
+well. Before their death, they usually determine whether they will be
+buried, or be placed on a stage, or in a tree.
+
+There was, among the Dacotas at this place, a young Punca Indian,
+whose name was Ho-Ta-Ma, a handsome, friendly man, who often amused
+himself with different games; frequently he was seen with his comrades
+playing at what was called the hoop game, at which sticks, covered
+with leather, are thrown through a hoop in motion. In the daytime the
+Indians were often seen galloping their horses, mostly riding on their
+bare backs: sometimes they ran races, as Mr. Bodmer has
+represented.[291] In the evening they drive their horses into the
+fort, as they are more safe from a hostile attack, and horse-stealing
+is universally practised by the Indians. The Indian families residing
+here are mostly related to the white inhabitants of the fort, and,
+therefore, constantly abide near them. The men lead a very indolent
+life; for, besides the chase and war, their only occupations are
+eating, smoking, sleeping, and making their weapons.
+
+During our stay here, on board the vessel, we were continually
+besieged by Indians, who did not move from the spot. Our time was,
+therefore, divided between these visitors and our excursions into the
+prairie. On the 2nd of June, 7,000 buffalo skins and other furs were
+put on board the Yellow Stone, with which it was to return to St.
+Louis. We took this opportunity of sending letters to Europe: the
+Assiniboin was assigned us for the continuation of the voyage. The
+weather, at this time, was very unfavourable; it rained at a
+temperature of 57 deg., and we were obliged to have a fire in our cabin
+throughout the day. The Assiniboin had already taken our baggage on
+board, but still lay on the east bank, for an attempt to bring it over
+to our side had failed, because the water was too low. In the
+afternoon, when we visited Mr. Laidlow in the fort, six Sioux, from
+the prairie, arrived on horseback, whose horde, of 200 tents, was at
+the distance of a [pg. 161] day's journey. They brought word that, two
+days' march from the fort, there were numerous herds of buffaloes.
+Among these new comers there were some elderly men; the plaits of
+their hair were wound about with strips of skin, and their faces were
+painted red; their bodies were fleshy, which was a proof that they had
+suffered less from hunger than those in the fort. They paid a visit
+first to the Assiniboin, and then to Mr. Laidlow, who gave them food
+and tobacco. Mr. Lamont, who had taken leave of us to-day, to go by
+the steam-boat to St. Louis, embarked with some of the Company's
+clerks: he was saluted with several cannon shot, and before evening
+the Yellow Stone rapidly descended the river. While Messrs. Mc Kenzie,
+Sandford, and Mitchell took up their abode in the fort, we went on
+board the Assiniboin, from which I made, on the 4th of June, an
+interesting excursion into the prairie, in order to make myself
+acquainted with the eastern bank.
+
+I left the vessel at half-past seven o'clock, the thermometer being at
+59 deg., and immediately ascended the steep eminences, of which the lower
+were covered partly with bright green, partly with dry, yellow grass,
+and the higher ones bare, with the surface frequently blackened by
+fire. A path, trodden by the elks to the river, led me to the highest
+summit, from which I had a pleasing prospect of the opposite bank and
+the fort. It lay, clearly delineated, in the extensive verdant plain,
+bounded by a singular chain of hills; and I again distinguished, half
+way up the mountains, the black stripe of the extensive stratum of
+coal. At noon it was warm and I returned much heated, the thermometer
+being at 72 deg. We received a visit from six or seven newly arrived
+Tetons, whom the interpreter, Dorion, introduced to us. They were
+particularly interested by the steam-boat, and, after they had very
+minutely examined it, they were served with dinner and pipes. The
+dinner chiefly consisted of bacon, which the Indians do not like;
+[pg. 162] they, however, swallowed it, in order that they might not
+appear uncourteous. Among them was a Teton, named Wah-Menitu (the
+spirit, or god, in the water), and who had such a voracious appetite,
+that he devoured everything which the others had left; his face was
+painted red; he had a remarkably projecting upper lip, and an aquiline
+nose much bent. In his hair, which hung in disorder about his head,
+with a plait coming over one of his eyes or nose, the feather of a
+bird of prey was placed horizontally; but observe that he had a right
+to wear three. Mr. Bodmer, who desired to draw this man's portrait,
+gave him some vermilion, on which he spat, and rubbed his face with
+it, drawing parallel lines, in the red colour, with a wooden
+stick.[292] Wah-Menitu stayed on board for the night; sung, talked,
+laughed, and joked without ceasing; and seemed quite to enjoy
+himself.
+
+  [Illustration: A Teton]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[254] This river rises in the Black Hills, near the sources of Tongue
+River, and discharges itself into the Missouri, about 1,000 miles from
+its mouth. The mouth of this river is said to be 150 paces broad, and
+its current very rapid. In the American descriptions of travels, the
+French name of this river is generally written incorrectly; for
+instance, "Qui-courre River," &c. It likewise bears the name of the
+Rapid River. Bradbury gives the names of some plants which he gathered
+on its banks.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[255] Ponca Creek, a small prairie stream, rises in the eastern part
+of Tripp County, South Dakota, and flows east and southeast about
+parallel to the Niobrara. Lewis and Clark speak of mineral springs on
+the northern bank, but do not mention them as warm.--ED.
+
+[256] A conspicuous landmark in Wheeler County, South Dakota, just
+below Fort Randall, at the 969 mile mark from the mouth of the
+Missouri. Lewis and Clark speak of it as the Dome.--ED.
+
+[257] Hugh Glass's adventures with wild beasts and Indians formed a
+kind of frontier epic, and were told around many a camp-fire. All that
+is known of his early life is that he came from Pennsylvania, and was
+spoken of as "old man Glass." He was in the Ankara campaign of 1823,
+and seriously wounded. Nevertheless he set out with Andrew Henry for
+the Yellowstone, but was nearly killed by a grizzly bear, and left to
+die. He survived, made his way to Fort Kiowa, and later joined Henry
+on the Yellowstone. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, ii, pp. 698-705. For
+his death, see _post_, volume xxiv.--ED.
+
+[258] Sir George Back (1796-1878), a well-known explorer of arctic
+North America. He entered the navy in 1808, and in 1817 made his first
+northern journey in company with Sir John Franklin. Later he
+accompanied Franklin on several expeditions, being one of his most
+trusted lieutenants. In 1833 Back organized an expedition to search
+for Sir John Ross; his account of this latter enterprise was published
+as _Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition, 1833, 1834, and 1835_
+(London, 1836). In 1836 Back made a final voyage in the "Terror,"
+whose narrative was published in 1838. Upon his return he received
+many honors, being knighted, made rear-admiral (1857), and admiral
+(1867). Maximilian quotes either from his earlier book, or from some
+of his narratives published with those of Franklin's expeditions.--ED.
+
+[259] Little Cedar Island, still so-called, is just above Wheeler,
+South Dakota, about 1010 miles up the river. Maximilian has confused
+the distance with that of an island beyond, upon which Fort Recovery
+stood, given by Bradbury as 1075 miles up. See note 261, _post_, p.
+304, and Bradbury's _Travels_, our volume v, p. 99, note 66.--ED.
+
+[260] Bijoux Hills are on the east bank of the river, not far below
+Chamberlain, South Dakota. Bijoux was an engage with Long. See our
+volume xvi, pp. 58-59. Catlin, _North American Indians_, ii, p. 432,
+says Bijoux was ultimately killed by the Sioux.--ED.
+
+[261] The name Shannon was given to the first creek by Lewis and
+Clark, for one of their men, George Shannon, who here rejoined them
+after an absence of sixteen days, when he had been lost on the
+prairies. It is now called Dry (or Rosebud) Creek, with Rosebud
+Landing at its mouth.
+
+White, a South Dakota river, entering the Missouri in Lyman County,
+from the west.--ED.
+
+[262] This is the post usually known as Fort Recovery; see Bradbury's
+_Travels_, our volume v, p. 99, note 67.--ED.
+
+[263] Fort Lookout had originally been built (about 1822) by the
+Columbia Fur Company, and from them passed into the hands of the
+American Fur Company. Later, the Indian agency was established here,
+as Maximilian notes. It later became a military post where troops were
+quartered until the building of Fort Randall in 1857. The site was
+some ten miles above Chamberlain, on the west bank--ED.
+
+[264] For the Yankton, see our volume v, p. 90, note 55.--ED.
+
+[265] Maximilian's classification of the Dakota (or Sioux) is in
+accord with modern philological conclusions. J. W. Powell, "Indian
+Linguistic Families," in United States Bureau of Ethnology _Report_,
+1885-86, gives six subdivisions of this great tribe--Santee, Wahpeton,
+Sisseton, Yankton, Yanktonnai, and Teton; the last three, or Missouri,
+tribes corresponding with those given by Maximilian.--ED.
+
+[266] See p. 287, for illustration of method of wearing hair.--ED.
+
+[267] See his portrait, which Maximilian calls "a striking likeness,"
+Plate 41, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[268] See p. 287, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.--ED.
+
+[269] See p. 319, for illustration of Sioux tents.--ED.
+
+[270] See Plate 81, figure 8, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[271] Schoolcraft (Expedition of Gov. Cass, p. 323) says, that the
+Dacotas, on the Mississippi, tanned their skins with oak bark, which I
+did not observe on the Missouri: they probably learned it from the
+Whites. The Aucas, in South America, seem to use such an
+instrument.--D'Orbigny Voyage, t. ii. p. 234.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[272] Apparently the creeks took somewhat different courses in the
+time of Clark's visit--at least Crow, Wolf, and Campbell are now some
+distance apart in the Crow Creek Indian reservation of Buffalo County,
+South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[273] This is a climbing plant, and the leaves are a very nourishing
+food for horses and oxen, which are said to thrive upon it. The root
+has a bulb, about the size of a walnut, with a violet outer skin, and
+white inside, which is said to be a wholesome food for man.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[274] Clark describes the Big Bend as being from a mile to a mile and
+a quarter at its neck, with a low range of hills running across, from
+ninety to a hundred and eighty feet high. He himself walked across the
+"gouge;" but the boats were a day and a half in passing around.--ED.
+
+[275] Medicine Creek was called by Lewis and Clark Tyler's River. It
+is a western affluent of the Missouri, and the hills mentioned are
+known as Medicine Butte, in Lyman County. The mouth of the creek is
+the site of the Red Cloud or Lower Brule Indian agency. This creek and
+hills should be distinguished from Medicine Knoll and a creek of that
+name, eastern affluents a few miles higher up.--ED.
+
+[276] Daniel Lamont, supposed to be of a Scotch family, was one of the
+original members of the Columbia Fur Company, and became one of the
+three partners of the "Upper Missouri Outfit." He was for many years
+in the fur-trade, but little is known of his personal history.
+
+Colonel David D. Mitchell was a Virginian by birth (1806), who early
+entered the fur-trade--first as a clerk, later as a partner in the
+American Fur Company. In 1832 he built the first fort for that company
+among the Blackfeet (see our volume xxiii), and was for some time in
+charge at Fort Clark, where Larpenteur speaks of him as "very much of
+a gentleman." In 1841, Mitchell was chosen superintendent of Indian
+affairs for the Western Department, with headquarters at St. Louis--a
+position which he filled until 1852. Joining the volunteer service for
+the Mexican War, he was chosen lieutenant-colonel of Colonel Sterling
+Price's regiment, and advanced first to New Mexico and later to
+Chihuahua with Colonel Alexander Doniphan. Mitchell died in St. Louis
+in 1861.--ED.
+
+[277] This island is now known as Fort George (or Airhart's)
+Island.--ED.
+
+[278] The second Fort Teton was built about 1828; it has been
+contended by several authorities that its site was south of or below
+Teton River; but in the light of Maximilian's testimony, this appears
+improbable. The first Fort Teton was probably that built by Joseph La
+Framboise in 1817. Maximilian does not state that Fort Tecumseh was
+the successor of Fort Teton, and the predecessor of Fort Pierre,
+although alluding to the former--see note 278, _post_. On the entire
+subject see "Fort Pierre and its Neighbors," in _South Dakota
+Historical Collections_ (Aberdeen, 1902), i, pp. 263-379.--ED.
+
+[279] Fort Pierre was built by the American Fur Company in 1831-32 to
+replace Fort Tecumseh, which had begun to be undermined by the river.
+The site chosen was three miles above the mouth of the Teton, about
+one thousand yards back from the river. The post was christened in
+June, 1832, upon the visit of Pierre Chouteau, jr., in whose honor it
+was named. Fort Pierre continued to be the entrepot of the upper
+Missouri until 1855, when the company sold the post to the United
+States, then engaged in a campaign against the hostile Sioux. General
+Harney wintered here (1855-56) with one thousand two hundred men. The
+following year (1857), Fort Pierre was abandoned for Fort Randall, a
+hundred miles farther down the river; the old post was demolished, the
+best of its fittings transferred to the new post, and the rest allowed
+to fall into the hands of the Indians. The same year a trader built a
+new post, also popularly called Fort Pierre, three miles above the old
+one. New Fort Pierre, a company trading post, was built in 1859 about
+two miles above the original stockade. This was abandoned in the Sioux
+outbreak of 1863, and the goods removed to the neighborhood of Fort
+Sully, a government post established on an island below the city of
+Pierre, South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[280] Fort Tecumseh was the principal establishment on this part of
+the river for the Columbia Fur Company, being built about 1822. When
+this concern was consolidated with the American Fur Company, the
+latter made headquarters at Fort Tecumseh until the building of the
+original Fort Pierre (1831-32). Its site has been thought, by a
+misreading of authorities, to have been on the east bank; but it was
+probably only a short distance below old Fort Pierre, on the western
+bank.--ED.
+
+[281] William Laidlaw was a Scotchman who had been trained in the
+British fur companies, and came to the Missouri with the Columbia Fur
+Company. He was for several years the factor of Forts Tecumseh and
+Pierre, and was then promoted to the charge of Fort Union, where he
+was as late as 1845--probably for some time after. When he finally
+retired, it was to settle near Liberty, Missouri, where he died a poor
+man. He was an able trader, but of quick, irascible temper, and
+unpopular with his subordinates.--ED.
+
+[282] See p. 319, for plan of Fort Pierre.--ED.
+
+[283] For Pierre Dorion, see our volume v, p. 38, note 7. Although
+Maximilian speaks of him as "old Dorion," it is probable that this was
+another son of Pierre, sr.; for Pierre, jr., was a grown man at the
+time of the Lewis and Clark expedition, and his father was a
+Frenchman, not a half-breed.--ED.
+
+[284] See the portrait of the Dakota woman, Plate 42, in the
+accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[285] The red pipe-clay is found chiefly on a lateral stream of the
+Big Sioux River, but also in other places, for instance, on St.
+Peter's River; and it is said, that the several Indian tribes behave
+peaceably towards each other while they are digging up the stone in
+that place, but again treat each other as enemies as soon as they have
+left it. Persons who have visited the quarries on the Big Sioux River
+have given me the following description of them: the red stone occurs
+in large beds or strata, where the perpendicular sides of the stream
+show divers alternating layers. The strata of red stone, which are at
+the most a foot thick, alternate with yellow, blue, white, and other
+kinds of clay. The green turf on the surface, and the upper stratum,
+are removed, and the red-brown colour of the stone is generally more
+lively and beautiful the deeper you go down. It is possible to obtain
+large pieces, and to make beautiful slabs of them. The Indians make
+not only pipe-heads of this stone, but likewise war-clubs, which,
+however, are only carried in their hands for show.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ The first white person to visit the Pipestone
+quarries in southwest Minnesota was the artist George Catlin, who in
+1836 obtained permission from the Indians to inspect this sacred spot.
+The mineral has since been called "catlinite," from his name. There
+are, however, other quarries in Dakota, Wisconsin, and Minnesota.
+
+[286] See Plate 81, figure 12, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv, for a figure of a Dakota pipe; also illustration on opposite page
+of Dakota pipes.--ED.
+
+[287] See p. 323, for illustration of a Dakota with plaited hair.--ED.
+
+[288] See Plate 81, figure 9, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+[289] For the Teton, see our volume v, p. 104, note 71. The Teton
+bands (as at present classified) are the Brule, Sans Arcs, Blackfeet
+(not to be confused with the Blackfoot tribe of Algonquian origin),
+Miniconjou, Two Kettle, Oglala, and Hunkpapa. The Yankton bands are
+not classified by Powell.--ED.
+
+[290] See p. 287, for illustration of method of wearing hair.--ED.
+
+[291] See Plate 30, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv, for an
+Indian horse-race.--ED.
+
+[292] See p. 323, for illustration of this Teton.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+VOYAGE FROM FORT PIERRE, ON THE TETON RIVER, TO FORT CLARKE, NEAR THE
+VILLAGES OF THE MANDANS, FROM JUNE 5TH TO JUNE 19TH
+
+   Singular conformation of the Country--Traces of Fire--Chayenne
+   Island and River--Former abode of the Arikkaras--The Woodcutters
+   alarmed by the Indians--Cabris or Antelopes--Wolves and other
+   Animals--Little Chayenne River--Abundance of Game--Traces of the
+   Beaver, and of the breaking-up of the Ice--Moreau's River--Grand
+   or Wetarko River--Rampart River--The two abandoned Villages of
+   the Arikkaris--La Butte au Gres--La Butte de Chayenne--Murder of
+   Whites by the Arikkaras--Cannon-ball River, with its Sand-stone
+   Balls--Heart River--La Butte Carree--Interview with the
+   Yanktonans--Fort Clarke, near the Mandan Villages--The
+   Mandans--The Crows.
+
+
+Our departure was delayed till ten o'clock on the 5th of June, when
+three guns were fired, and we left the fort. The Assiniboin was
+perfectly equipped for the voyage up the river, and had sixty men on
+board. Mr. Mc Kenzie had remained behind in the fort, but overtook us
+at noon with Mr. Laidlow, who was desirous to accompany us a little
+way. We had stopped at an island called, by the Canadians, Isle au
+Village de Terre, because, on the other side of the channel which
+divides it from the continent, there was formerly a village of the
+Sioux. This island was covered with an almost impenetrable thicket of
+narrow-leaved willows, which was so dense and entangled, that one of
+our large dogs caught an elk calf alive; we heard its moaning, but
+were not able to find it. The next morning the thermometer was at
+66-1/2 deg. We were obliged to unload some goods, and to lighten our
+vessel, and our hunters brought us many interesting objects,
+particularly several birds, among which was the grey butcher-bird
+(_Lanius excubitoroides_), of which Richardson gives a representation,
+and which we had not met with before. Though antelopes and a white
+wolf had approached very closely to them, our hunters had not been
+able to kill any large animals. The addition to our Flora was very
+considerable. The hills all consisted of clammy, greasy, sterile clay,
+which was burnt on the surface, and covered with pieces of stone; and
+in many places we observed on them round masses, which looked as if
+they had been [pg. 164] melted and formed by fire. We stayed here till
+noon on the 7th of June, when we again proceeded with an agreeable
+temperature of 77-1/2 deg. We ran aground several times, and at last took
+in our goods, which we had deposited on the left bank. This delay gave
+us time to make an excursion. In company with Mr. Bodmer, I ascended
+the slippery, very steep eminences along the river, the singular
+shapes of which often appeared to form perfect craters. The earth and
+stones everywhere indicated that they had undergone change by fire.
+The earth was hard, friable, with many crevices--the stones brown,
+blackish, and often looking like scoriae. This clay, when wet, is
+exceedingly clammy and tough. The conical summits, most of which were
+perfectly round and pyramidal, were most singularly formed. At the top
+there were always very regular, parallel, horizontal rings; the lower
+parts of the pyramid had perpendicular furrows, or clefts, as the
+annexed woodcut shows.[293] These conical hills have been evidently
+elevated by fire, so that many crater-like hollows are seen between
+and near them. In the furrows and clefts of these singular hills, many
+low plants grow, and form regular net-like green stripes on the bare
+black clay. These lines, intersecting each other, divide the surface
+into regular beds. The lower part of these eminences is generally
+covered with plants, particularly grasses, while the upper is bare, or
+merely crossed with the transverse stripes of verdure, and often they
+are entirely bare. The climbing up these high, slippery ascents in the
+heat of the day was rather fatiguing. When we came into the clefts
+between the pyramids, we found the ground, in general, slimy, and so
+adhesive that we were almost compelled to leave our shoes behind. In
+such places, some old red cedars, groups of the bird cherry, ashes,
+roses, &c., were nourished by the moisture. Near the hills, and in the
+plain, a cactus, with roundish, flat joints, grew in abundance. It was
+not yet in blossom, and I cannot say whether it is the plant taken, by
+Nuttall, for _Cactus opuntia_; probably it is _Cactus ferox_. We found
+many traces of antelopes and of herds of buffaloes. The latter had
+everywhere trodden broad paths on their way to the river to drink. No
+beast of the chase presented itself as an object for our rifles, and,
+as the sun was going down, we set out on our return. On the way we
+[pg. 165] found the horns of an elk, with twelve antlers, and it was
+late before we reached the Assiniboin. On the 8th of June, in the
+morning, we received a farewell visit from Mr. Laidlow, and then saw
+Mr. Fontenelle's party, consisting of sixty men and 185 horses, pass
+along over the hills. They rode in our sight through the stream
+called, by the Anglo-Americans, Breechcloth Creek, and, by the Sioux,
+Tscheh-ke-na-ka-oah-ta-pah.[294] This stream, as well as most of the
+small rivers of the prairie, not excepting even the Little Sioux
+River, have, in general, a brackish taste when the water is low.
+Frequently taking soundings, we proceeded but slowly in the shallow
+Missouri, and, early in the afternoon, reached the place where the
+timber for building Fort Pierre had been felled. From this place it is
+fifteen miles to the mouth of the Chayenne River. Finding some cords
+of wood ready piled up, we took them on board. At sunset, a high wind
+arose, so that we could not reach the mouth of the Chayenne till about
+seven o'clock on the following morning, after passing Chayenne Island.
+The country about the mouth of this river is open, the chain of hills
+low, and the banks covered with forests. At its mouth, and for some
+way up on both sides of the Missouri, the Arikkaras formerly dwelt,
+till they were driven further up by the Sioux, and, at length, wholly
+retired from the banks of the Missouri.[295] If we follow the course
+of the Chayenne for a couple of hundred miles up to the Black Hills,
+we come to the dwellings of the Chayenne Indians, who are hostile to
+most of the tribes of the Missouri. They are said to be tall, slender
+men, with long, narrow faces, and differing in their language from all
+the other tribes in the country. They formerly lived at the mouth of
+Chayenne River. They affirm that they came to the Missouri from the
+north-east.[296] Dr. Morse states their number at 3,250 souls.
+
+  [Illustration: Hill of baked clay]
+
+We made but slow progress to-day; and at two o'clock, after our boats
+had taken soundings in all directions, we remained fast aground, and
+had burnt all our fuel, so that we had to send wood-cutters into the
+forests on the left bank. In about half an hour the boats suddenly
+returned, bringing word that hostile Indians had been seen in the
+forest, and the wood-cutters had, therefore, refused to begin their
+work. To give them courage, and to protect them during their work, all
+hands on board, that could be spared, armed themselves with rifles and
+muskets, and, to the number of twenty-six persons, immediately went on
+shore. They formed a line of outposts behind the trees, under whose
+protection the wood-cutters pursued their work. But they were not
+disturbed, for the Indians had retired, or it had been a false alarm.
+We lay to for the night on the west bank; a strong wind had risen,
+with a pretty high temperature, which continued till the following
+morning, the 10th of June. Early on that day we reached an island,
+which appears to be that called, by Lewis and Clarke, Caution Island,
+where a couple of white wolves gazed at us without appearing to be at
+all afraid. In the afternoon, we came to the mouth of Little Chayenne
+River, on the east bank.[297] Elks are very numerous in these parts;
+on the following morning we saw a herd of, at least, thirty of these
+large animals, as well as a great many wolves, often three or four
+together, most of them white. The wood, on the high bank, bore marks
+of [pg. 166] the breaking up of the ice, the bark of the trees being
+peeled off eight or ten feet above ground. At noon, Mr. Bodmer had
+shot a very large male antelope, which we despatched some of the
+people to bring on board; other hunters, who had gone out early to the
+east bank, made signs that they had killed some game; and the boat
+which we sent to them returned in the evening with four large elks. In
+the thick forest, on the left bank, were many traces of beavers, which
+are more numerous hereabouts than in most of the other parts on the
+Missouri, because the trappers (beaver catchers) did not venture to
+place their traps in the territory of the hostile Arikkara Indians.
+
+Opposite to the mouth of Otter Creek,[298] in the woods and thickets
+of the west bank, behind which rose the green hills of the prairie,
+there were many elks, which were frightened by the noise of the
+steamer. In this forest we found an uninhabited loghouse, 180 steps
+from which runs a pretty river, called Moreau's River, from a man of
+that name who passed the night here with a Chayenne Indian woman, who
+had been taken by the Arikkaras and escaped.[299] She stabbed him
+while he slept, and fled on his horse to her own nation. This river is
+called the southern boundary of the territory of the Arikkaras, though
+they often make excursions far beyond it. We stopped at the
+above-mentioned loghouse to cut wood, but it was found more convenient
+to pull down part of the old building and take it away. On the morning
+of the 12th, our cannon, muskets and rifles were loaded with ball,
+because we were approaching the villages of the hostile Arikkaras. We
+came to Grand River, called in Lewis and Clarke's map Wetarko River.
+As we here touched the bottom, we crossed to the east bank, and in
+half an hour reached Rampart River,[300] which issues from a narrow
+chain of hills, called Les Ramparts; and soon afterwards an island
+covered with willows, which, on the large special map of Lewis and
+Clarke, has an Arikkara village, of which there are now no
+traces.[301] From the hills we had a fine prospect over the bend of
+the river, on which the villages of the Arikkaras are situated, and
+which we reached after a short run of only two miles.
+
+The two villages of this tribe are on the west bank, very near each
+other, but separated by a small stream. They consist of a great number
+of clay huts, round at the top, with a square entrance in front, and
+the whole surrounded with a fence of stakes, which were much decayed,
+and in many places thrown down. It is not quite a year since these
+villages had been wholly abandoned, because their inhabitants, who
+were extremely hostile to the Whites, killed so many Americans, that
+they themselves foresaw that they would be severely chastised by the
+United States, and therefore preferred to emigrate. To this cause was
+added, a dry, unproductive season, when the crops entirely failed; as
+well as the absence of the herds of buffaloes, which hastened their
+removal. It is said that these Indians now roam about on the road from
+St. Louis to Santa Fe, and the late attacks on the caravans are
+ascribed to them.[302] Mr. Bodmer made an accurate drawing of these
+deserted villages. The principal chief of the Arikkaras, when they
+retired from [pg. 167] the Missouri, was called Starapat[303] (the
+little hawk, with bloody claws), and generally La Main pleine de Sang,
+who will be mentioned in the sequel.
+
+The Arikkaras, or, as they are called by the Mandans, Rikkaras or
+Rees, Les Ris of the Canadians, are a branch of the Pawnees, from whom
+they long since separated. Their language, which is very easy for a
+German to pronounce, is said to be a proof of this affinity. Their
+number is supposed to be still 4000 souls, among whom 500 or 600 are
+able to bear arms. The wife of La Chapelle, the interpreter for that
+nation, was an Arikkara; she had a round full countenance, and rather
+delicate small features, with a very light yellowish complexion. It is
+affirmed that the women of this nation are the handsomest on the
+Missouri. Manoel Lisa, a well-known fur trader, had formerly built a
+trading house in this country, of which nothing now remains; though
+the place is still called Manoel Lisa's Fort.[304] The prairie was
+to-day more verdant and pleasant than yesterday. A mountain, with some
+remarkable summits, called La Butte au Gres, gave it some diversity.
+Here we suddenly saw, on the bank, a man, who fired his musket three
+times, and at first took him for an Indian; but another soon appeared,
+in a small leathern boat, and we learnt that both were _engages_ or
+travellers of the Company, who were dispatched from the Upper
+Missouri, with letters for Mr. Mc Kenzie. We took them in, and the
+little leathern boat was left lying on the beach. In the distance, on
+the left, there was a chain of mountains, with numerous summits, near
+which Cannon-ball River flows; and, nearer to the Missouri, a chain of
+flat hills, level at the top, with many clefts, called La Butte de
+Chayenne.[305] In this neighbourhood we saw a high tree in a poplar
+wood, entirely covered with turkey buzzards, as in Brazil; towards
+evening we passed Beaver Creek (Riviere au Castor), the Warananno[306]
+of Lewis and Clarke.[307]
+
+On the 14th, in the morning, the sky was clouded, and the wind very
+bleak. On the west bank of the river a ravine was shown us, where,
+seven or eight years before, the Arikkaras had shot seven white men,
+who were towing a loaded Mackinaw boat up the river.
+
+After we had passed an island, which is not marked in Lewis and
+Clarke's map, we observed two isolated table mountains in the prairie,
+on the west bank, which are not far from Cannon-ball River; and we
+then came to an aperture in the chain of hills, from which this
+river, which was very high, issues.[308] On the north side of the
+mouth, there was a steep, yellow clay wall; and on the southern, a
+flat, covered with poplars and willows. This river has its name from
+the singular regular sand-stone balls which are found in its banks,
+and in those of the Missouri in its vicinity. They are of various
+sizes, from that of a musket ball to that of a large bomb, and lie
+irregularly on the bank, or in the strata, from which they often
+project to half their thickness [pg. 168] when the river has washed away
+the earth; they then fall down, and are found in great numbers on the
+bank. Such sand-stone balls are met with in many places on the Upper
+Missouri; and former travellers have spoken of them. Many of them are
+rather elliptical, others are more flattened, and others flat on one
+side, and rather convex on the other. Of the perfectly spherical
+balls, I observed some two feet in diameter. On the steep bank of the
+Missouri we saw many such balls projecting from the narrow strata of
+the yellow sand-stone. A mile above the mouth of the Cannon-ball
+River, I saw no more of them. The Missouri had risen considerably;
+and, during the night, our people were obliged to keep off, with long
+poles, the trunks of trees that came floating down the river, without
+being able to prevent our receiving shocks which made the whole vessel
+tremble.
+
+  [Illustration: Antlers of deer]
+
+On the 15th, the river had risen nine inches, and brought down much
+wood and foam, which was expected, for it is reckoned that, in the
+month of June, the Missouri is twice much swollen from the melting of
+the snow in the Rocky Mountains. The weather was serene and warm. As
+early as half-past five o'clock we saw, on the eastern bank, a chain
+of table hills, quite flat at the top, which extends to a pretty
+considerable distance. The river turns, to the westward, towards this
+interesting chain, which is called the Mountains of the Old Mandan
+Village, because, at the place where it is traversed by the river,
+such a village is said to have formerly stood. At nine o'clock we
+stopped on the western bank to repair the damage the vessel had
+sustained, which gave our hunters time to make an excursion a few
+miles into the prairie. Towards eleven o'clock the bell gave the
+signal for departure. The current of the river was now very strong, so
+that we could proceed but slowly. We came to the site of the old
+Mandan village, which was situated, at the foot of the hills, in a
+fine meadow near the river; some poles, that were still standing, were
+the only remains of it; there was no village here at the time of Lewis
+and Clarke's journey. Dry, yellow grass now covered the place which
+had once been the scene of busy Indian life: only a colony of
+swallows, that had built their nests in the neighbouring hills, gave
+some animation to the scene. We were now in the territory of the
+Indian tribe of the Mandans.[309] A little further up, we saw four of
+our hunters sitting on the level ground, which was covered with
+poplars; one of them, Ortubize, the Sioux interpreter, had killed a
+Virginian deer, and wounded a large elk, which had escaped; soon
+after, Messrs. Bodmer and Harvey[310] arrived quite fatigued and
+heated; they had gone a great way, and very nearly missed the
+steamer. Mr. Harvey had killed a black-tailed or mule deer.[311] They
+had met with four of these animals, and brought the [pg. 169] head and
+skin, with some of the flesh of the one killed. At the next place,
+where we reached the hills, an isolated summit rose above the rest,
+which is called Bald Eagle Head; these hills were beautifully
+illumined with the setting sun; we saw the white wolves trotting about
+on them, and some swans were swimming in the river. On the eastern
+bank we saw the ruins of an old trading house, and many traces of
+beavers. Near the mouth of Apple Creek we took in wood, and saw, on
+the left hand, the continuation of a chain of hills, of very singular
+forms.[312] The night swallows flew over the river at an early hour,
+and a large beaver appeared among the willows, which we shot at
+without success. The 16th of June set in with a high northeast wind,
+accompanied with rain. We soon reached the mouth of Heart River,[313]
+but the wind drove our vessel towards the bank, and we were obliged to
+lay to at six o'clock; and it was not till the evening that the wind
+so far abated as to allow us to continue our voyage. The next morning,
+early, we came in sight of the Butte Carree.[314] In the willow
+thickets, on the bank, a very fine buffalo bull stood within half
+musket-shot; our people fired, but to no purpose. Soon after, we saw,
+in the prairie, two more very large animals of this species; and, in
+the course of the day, perceived a great number of them. The river
+brought down several dead buffalo cows. A little before the mouth of
+Lewis and Clarke's Hunting Creek,[315] the Missouri is half a mile
+broad, but soon becomes narrower. At eight o'clock we reached the
+place where a Mandan village had formerly stood.[316] The Sioux, from
+St. Peter's River, surprised it about forty years ago, killed most of
+the inhabitants, and destroyed the huts. The prairie hills formed, in
+this part, long, flat, naked ridges, perfectly resembling the walls of
+a fortress. The oaks and ashes, at the edge of the thickets, were but
+just [pg. 170] beginning to unfold their buds. It is probable, however,
+that they had suffered by a fire in the prairie. After we had passed,
+alternately, prairies, with their hills, steep clay banks, and stripes
+of forest, we prosecuted our voyage till dusk, and lay to near a large
+willow thicket, on the eastern bank, when some musket shots were
+suddenly heard, the flashes of which were evidently seen. Mr. Mc Kenzie
+immediately supposed that it was an Indian war party, which people, in
+general, avoid, as they do not much trust them. We consulted what was
+to be done. Many shots followed, which made a very loud report, it
+being the custom of the Indians to use a great deal of powder; and we
+soon perceived, among the dark thickets, the figures of the Indians in
+their white buffalo robes. As nobody knew the intentions of these
+people, we looked forward to the meeting with some anxiety. The
+Indians broke silence first, calling out that they were come with
+peaceable intentions, and wished to be taken on board. Ortubize, the
+interpreter, telling us that they were Sioux, of the branch of the
+Yanktonans, we conferred some time with them, while a kind of bridge
+of planks was thrown across to the shore. Twenty-three, for the most
+part tall men, came on board, and were made to sit down, in a row, on
+one side of the large cabin. They came from a camp of the Yanktonans,
+consisting of 300 tents, which was in the neighbourhood; they
+generally lived on the banks of the Chayenne, which falls into the Red
+River, near the Devil's Lake, and the sources of St. Peter's
+River.[317] They had been hunting in the neighbourhood, and shot some
+buffaloes. The Yanktonans are represented as the most perfidious and
+dangerous of all the Sioux, and are stated frequently to have killed
+white men, especially Englishmen, in these parts. They generally come
+to the Missouri in the winter, but at this season it was a mere chance
+that we met with them. They were mostly robust, slender, well-shaped
+men, with long dishevelled hair, in which some wore feathers as
+indications of their exploits. The upper parts of their bodies were
+generally naked, merely covered with the buffalo's skin, or blanket;
+but their whole dress was plain and indifferent, as they only came out
+for a hunting excursion. The chief of these people was Tatanka-Kta
+(the dead buffalo), a man of middling stature, with a very dark brown,
+expressive countenance, and his hair bound together over the forehead
+in a thick knot; he was dressed in a uniform of red cloth, with blue
+facings and collar, and ornamented with silver trimmings, such as the
+traders are used to give, or to sell to such chiefs as they desire to
+distinguish. In his hand he had the wing of an eagle for a fan.
+
+After we had smoked with these Yanktonans all round, the chief opened,
+before Mr. Mc Kenzie, a bag, with old pemmican (dry meat powdered), by
+way of present, and then rose to make a speech. After shaking hands,
+successively, with all persons present, he said, with much
+gesticulation, and in short sentences, between which he appeared to be
+reflecting, "that the whole body of the 300 huts was under the
+principal chief, Jawitschahka; that his people had been formerly on
+good terms with the Mandans, but had been at variance with them for
+about a year, on account of the murder of a Sioux, and now wished to
+make peace again; that with this view [pg. 171] they had sent three of
+their people to the Mandan villages, but did not know the result; and,
+therefore, were very desirous of the mediation of Mr. Mc Kenzie; that
+they happened to be near the river, when they perceived their father's
+ship, and were come to visit him; that to be able to supply the Fur
+Company with more beaver skins, they wished to have liberty to hunt on
+the Missouri, and on that account peace with the Mandans was of
+importance to them. They hoped, therefore, that Mr. Mc Kenzie would
+intercede for them, and allow them to accompany him." The answer
+was--"That if, like the other tribes of their nation, who lived
+constantly on the Missouri, they would, in future, conduct themselves
+properly, and never kill white men, he would attempt all that lay in
+his power; but he bade them consider what would be the best for them,
+whether to come on board with him, or to go alone by land to the
+Mandan villages, as he did not know how they might be received by the
+young men of the Mandan tribe." These Indians showed us a beautiful
+skin of a young, white, female buffalo, which they intended as a
+present for the Mandans, by whom such skins are highly valued. They
+had already sent them a white buffalo calf. Our visitors were
+afterwards taken into another apartment, where refreshments were set
+before them, and they were lodged for the night. The next morning,
+however, they went ashore, and proceeded to Fort Clarke on foot.
+During the night there was a violent tempest, and the next morning,
+the 18th June, was gloomy, damp, and windy. We left at an early hour
+the place of the meeting, from which it was twelve miles to Fort
+Clarke. The Yanktonans, keeping in sight of us, walked through the
+prairie, where they frightened a herd of ten or twelve wolves, which
+had long amused us by their gambols. At half-past seven we passed a
+roundish island covered with willows, and reached then the wood on the
+western bank, in which the winter dwellings of part of the Mandan
+Indians are situated; and saw, at a distance, the largest village of
+this tribe, Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush, in the vicinity of which the whole
+prairie was covered with riders and pedestrians.[318] As we drew
+nearer the huts of that village, Fort Clarke, lying before it,
+relieved by the back-ground of the blue prairie hills, came in sight,
+with the gay American banner waving from the flagstaff.[319] On a
+tongue of land on the left bank were four white men on horseback;
+Indians, in their buffalo robes, sat in groups upon the bank, and the
+discharge of cannon and musketry commenced to welcome us. The
+Assiniboin soon lay to before the fort, against the gently sloping
+shore, where above 600 Indians were waiting for us. Close to the
+beach, the chiefs and most distinguished warriors of the Mandan nation
+stood in front of the assembly of red men, among whom the most eminent
+were Charata-Numakschi (the wolf chief), Mato-Tope (the four
+bears),[320] Dipauch (the broken arm), Berock-Itainu (the ox neck),
+Pehriska-Ruhpa (the two ravens), and some others. They were all
+dressed in their finest clothes, to do us honour. As soon as the
+vessel was moored, they came on board, and, after having given us
+their hands, sat down in the stern cabin. The pipe went round, and the
+conversation began with the Mandans, by the assistance of Mr. Kipp,
+clerk to the American Fur Company, and director of [pg. 172] the trading
+post at Fort Clarke;[321] and with the Manitaries, by the help of the
+old interpreter, Charbonneau, who had lived thirty-seven years in the
+villages of the latter people, near this place.[322] Mr. Mc Kenzie
+caused the proposal of the Yanktonans to be submitted to these
+Indians, but the latter, after long deliberation, replied that they
+could not possibly accept these proposals of peace, because the
+Yanktonans were much too treacherous; that, however, no harm should
+now be done to them, and that they might depart unmolested.
+
+Most of the Indians in our cabin were stout, tall men, except
+Mato-Tope, who was of middle stature, and rather slim. I shall have
+occasion to say more, in the sequel, of this brave and distinguished
+chief. They had their weapons, such as muskets, bows, war clubs, and
+battle axes, in their hands, and also fans of eagles' wings, and wore
+buffalo robes, which, on the inner side, are painted reddish-brown, or
+white, and adorned with coloured figures. They let their hair hang
+down at length, considering it as an ornament. Sometimes it is divided
+into plaits, and daubed with a reddish clay. However, I refrain, at
+present, from describing these Indians, of whom I shall have occasion
+to speak more at length. The Mandans, Manitaries, and Crows, of which
+tribe there were now seventy tents about the fort, differ very little
+from each other in their appearance and dress; they are, however,
+taller than the Indians on the Missouri whom we had before seen, and
+their features more regular than those of the Sioux.
+
+We soon went on shore, and examined the numerous assemblage of brown
+Indian figures, of whom the women and children, in numerous groups,
+were sitting on the ground; the men, some on horseback, some on foot,
+were collected around, and making their observations on the white
+strangers. Here we saw remarkably tall and handsome men, and fine
+dresses, for they had all done their utmost to adorn themselves. The
+haughty Crows[323] rode on beautiful panther skins, with red cloth
+under them, and, as they never wear spurs, had a whip of elk's horn in
+their hand. These mounted warriors, with their diversely painted
+faces, feathers in their long hair, bow and arrows slung across their
+backs, and with a musket or spear in their hands, the latter of which
+is merely for show, were a novel and highly interesting scene. This
+remarkable assembly gazed at the strangers with curiosity, and we
+conversed with them by signs, but soon proceeded to the fort, which is
+built on a smaller scale, on a plan similar to that of all the other
+trading posts or forts of the Company. It is about the size of the
+Sioux Agency, but more rudely constructed. Immediately behind the fort
+there were, in the prairies, seventy leather tents of the Crows, which
+we immediately visited.[324]
+
+The tents of the Crows are exactly like those of the Sioux, and are
+set up without any regular order. On the poles, instead of scalps,
+there were small pieces of coloured cloth, chiefly red, floating like
+streamers in the wind. We were struck with the number of wolf-like
+dogs of all colours, of which there were certainly from 500 to 600
+running about. They all fell upon the strangers, and it was not
+without difficulty that we kept them off by throwing stones, in which
+[pg. 173] some old Indian women assisted us. We then proceeded about 300
+paces in a north-west direction from the fort, up the Missouri, to the
+principal village of the Mandans, Mih-Tutta-Hang-Kush.[325] This
+village consisted of about sixty large hemispherical clay huts, and
+was surrounded with a fence of stakes, at the four corners of which
+conical mounds were thrown up, covered with a facing of wicker-work,
+and embrasures, which serve for defence, and command the river and the
+plain. We were told that these cones or block-houses were not erected
+by the Indians themselves, but by the Whites. Three miles further up
+the river, and on the same bank, is the second village of the
+Mandans, called Ruhptare, consisting of about thirty-eight clay huts,
+which we could not then visit for want of time. In the immediate
+vicinity of the principal village, the stages, on which these Indians,
+like the Sioux, place their dead, lay scattered.[326]
+
+  [Illustration: Sioux burial stages]
+
+Around them were several high poles, with skins and other things
+hanging on them, as offerings to the lord of life, Omahank-Numakshi,
+or to the first man, Numank-Machana.[327] The three villages of the
+Manitaries (_gros ventre_) nation, whose language is totally different
+from that of the Mandans, are situated about fifteen miles higher up
+on the same side of the river, and most of their inhabitants had come
+on this day to the Mandan villages.[328]
+
+The view of the prairie around Fort Clarke was at this time highly
+interesting. A great number of horses were grazing all round; Indians
+of both sexes and all ages were in motion; we were, every moment,
+stopped by them, obliged to shake hands, and let them examine us on
+all sides. This was sometimes very troublesome. Thus, for example, a
+young warrior took hold of my pocket compass which I wore suspended by
+a ribbon, and attempted to take it by force, to hang as an ornament
+round his neck. I refused his request, but the more I insisted in my
+refusal, the more importunate he became. He offered me a handsome
+horse for my compass, [pg. 174] and then all his handsome clothes, and
+arms into the bargain, and as I still refused, he became angry, and
+it was only by the assistance of old Charbonneau, that I escaped a
+disagreeable and, perhaps, violent scene. On returning to the steamer
+we there found a numerous company of Indians, some smoking, others
+wrapped in their blankets, and asleep on the floor.
+
+Mr. Sandford, the sub-agent of the Mandans, Manitaries, and Crows, had
+a conference with Eripuass (the rotten belly), the distinguished chief
+of the latter. We accompanied Mr. Sandford to this meeting. Eripuass,
+a fine tall man, with a pleasing countenance, had much influence over
+his people; being in mourning he came to the fort in his worst dress,
+his hair cut close, and daubed with clay. Charbonneau acted as
+interpreter in the Manitari language. Mr. Sandford recommended to the
+chief continued good treatment of the white people who should come to
+his territory, hung a medal round his neck, and, in the name of the
+government, made him a considerable present of cloth, powder, ball,
+tobacco, &c., which this haughty man received without any sign of
+gratitude; on the contrary, these people consider such presents as a
+tribute due to them, and a proof of weakness. The Crows, in
+particular, as the proudest of the Indians, are said to despise the
+Whites. They do not, however, kill them, but often plunder them. At
+nightfall we visited Eripuass in his tent. The whole camp of the Crows
+was now filled with horses, some with their foals, all which had been
+driven in, to prevent their being stolen. This nation, consisting of
+400 tents, is said to possess between 9,000 and 10,000 horses, some of
+which are very fine. The dogs were partly taken into the tents, and we
+were less exposed to their attacks than in the day time, yet still we
+had to fight our way through them. The interior of the tent itself had
+a striking effect. A small fire in the centre gave sufficient light;
+the chief sat opposite the entrance, and round him many fine tall men,
+placed according to their rank, all with no other covering than a
+breech-cloth. Places were assigned to us on buffalo hides near the
+chief, who then lighted his Sioux pipe, which had a long flat tube,
+ornamented with bright yellow nails, made each of us take a few puffs,
+holding the pipe in his hand, and then passed it round to the left
+hand. After Charbonneau had continued the conversation for some time
+in the Manitari language, we suddenly rose and retired, according to
+the Indian customs.
+
+The Crows are called by the Mandans, Hahderuka, by the Manitaries,
+Haideroka; they themselves call their own tribe Apsaruka. The
+territory in which they move about is bounded, to the north or
+north-west, by the Yellow Stone River, and extends round Bighorn
+River, towards the sources of Chayenne River and the Rocky Mountains.
+These Indians are a wandering tribe of hunters, who neither dwell in
+fixed villages, like the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras, nor make
+any plantations except of tobacco, which, however, are very small.
+About six years ago, the Crows are said to have had only 1,000
+warriors, at present they are reckoned at 1,200. They roam about with
+their leather tents, hunt the buffalo, and other wild animals, and
+have many horses and dogs, which, however, they never use for food.
+They are said to possess more [pg. 175] horses than any other tribe of
+the Missouri, and to send them in the winter to Wind River, to feed on
+a certain shrub, which soon fattens them. The Crow women are very
+skilful in various kinds of work, and their shirts and dresses of
+bighorn leather, embroidered and ornamented with dyed porcupine
+quills, are particularly handsome, as well as their buffalo robes,
+which are painted and embroidered in the same manner. I shall speak,
+in the sequel, of their large caps of eagles' feathers, and of their
+shields, which are ornamented with feathers and paintings,[329] and
+other articles. The men make their weapons very well, and with much
+taste, especially their large bows, covered with the horn of the elk
+or bighorn, and often with the skin of the rattle-snake. I have
+represented a beautiful quiver of this nation, adorned with rosettes
+of porcupine quills.[330] In stature and dress these Indians
+correspond, on the whole, with the Manitaries, both having been
+originally one and the same people, as the affinity of their languages
+proves. Long hair is considered as a great beauty, and they take great
+pains with it. The hair of one of their chiefs, called Long Hair, was
+ten feet long, some feet of which trailed on the ground when he stood
+upright.[331] The enemies of the Crows are the Chayennes, the
+Blackfeet, and the Sioux; their allies are the Mandans and Manitaries.
+With the latter they bartered their good horses for European goods,
+but the American Fur Company has now established a separate trading
+post for them on the Yellow Stone River, which is called Fort
+Cass.[332]
+
+Though the Crows look down with contempt upon the Whites, they treat
+them very hospitably in their tents, yet their pride is singularly
+contrasted with a great propensity to stealing and begging, which
+makes them very troublesome. They are said to have many more
+superstitious notions than the Mandans, Manitaries, and Arikkaras; for
+instance, they never smoke a pipe when a pair of shoes is hung up in
+their tent; when the pipe circulates none ever takes more than three
+puffs, and then passes it in a certain manner to his left-hand
+neighbour. They are skilful horsemen, and, in their attacks on
+horseback, are said to throw themselves off on one side, as is done by
+many Asiatic tribes. They have many bardaches,[333] or hermaphrodites,
+among them, and exceed all the other tribes in unnatural practices.
+
+As among all the Missouri Indians, the Crows are divided into
+different bands or unions. A certain price is paid for admission into
+these unions and their dances, of which each has one peculiar to
+itself, like the other Missouri tribes; on which occasion the women
+are given up to the will of the seller in the same manner, as will be
+more particularly mentioned when speaking of the other tribes. Of the
+female sex, it is said of the Crows, that they, with the women of the
+Arikkaras, are the most dissolute of all the tribes of the Missouri.
+
+This people have a superstitious fear of a white buffalo cow; when a
+Crow meets one he addresses the sun in the following words: "I will
+give her (_i.e._ the cow) to you." He then [pg. 176] endeavours to kill
+the animal, but leaves it untouched, and then says to the sun, "Take
+her; she is yours." They never use the skin of these white buffalo
+cows, as the Mandans do, of which I shall, by-and-by, speak at length.
+The most sacred objects in the eyes of this people are the sun, the
+moon, and tobacco, that is, the leaves of the genuine tobacco
+(_Nicotiana_); and, therefore, all their children wear a small portion
+of this herb, well wrapped up, round their necks, by way of amulet.
+
+They do not bury their dead in the ground, but, like the Mandans,
+Manitaries, Sioux, and Assiniboins, lay them on stages in the
+prairie.[334] A Crow woman, who was on the point of death, was very
+apprehensive and uneasy in her mind lest she should be interred in the
+ground, according to the custom of the Whites. This was her sole
+concern, though she did not otherwise express any fear of death; as
+soon as she was made easy on this point, she died perfectly
+satisfied.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[293] See p. 323, for illustration of hill of baked clay.--ED.
+
+[294] Called "No Timber Creek," by Lewis and Clark. It is now Chantier
+in Stanley County, a term clipped from its Siouan name.--ED.
+
+[295] For the Cheyenne River see our volume v, p. 126, note 81.
+Cheyenne Island, about three miles long, below the river's
+embouchment, was called "Pania" by Lewis and Clark. They note also an
+old Arikara village, of which only a circular wall remained.--ED.
+
+[296] For the Cheyenne, see our volume v, p. 140, note 88. Their
+migration was from the northeast, the habitat of the Algonquian
+stock.--ED.
+
+[297] Coues, in his edition of Biddle's Lewis and Clark, identifies
+the island called "Caution" by the explorers, as the present Plum
+Island. The Little Cheyenne is a prairie stream coming into the
+Mission from the northeast, in Potter County, South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[298] Called Beaver (or Otter) Creek by Lewis and Clark; probably the
+present Swan Creek, in Walworth County, with the town of Lebeau at its
+mouth.--ED.
+
+[299] For this stream, see our volume v, p. 127, note 82.--ED.
+
+[300] For these rivers, see our volume v, p. 127, note 83.--ED.
+
+[301] In Lewis and Clark's time there were three Arikara villages on
+the Missouri. The lower village on the island, headed by the chief
+Kakawissassa, had been abandoned by 1811. See Bradbury's _Travels_,
+our volume v, p. 127.--ED.
+
+[302] A party returning from Santa Fe in the winter of 1832-33, was
+attacked January 1, on the Canadian River, lost all of their property,
+and had one man killed. The Arikara apparently never reoccupied their
+village permanently. Audubon found them in 1843 in one village with
+the Mandan, where they lived until removed to Fort Berthold
+reservation.--ED.
+
+[303] Known to the traders as "Old Star" present at Fort Clark in
+1847; see _Larpenteur's Journal_, ii, p. 246.--ED.
+
+[304] For the Arikara and Lisa see our volume v, p. 113, note 76, and
+p. 97, note 64, respectively. Fort Manuel, Lisa's post, erected in
+1800, was near the Arikara villages, the site not being definitely
+determined.--ED.
+
+[305] These are now called Cheyenne Hills. Lewis and Clark speak of
+one with a top resembling the slanting roof of a house.--ED.
+
+[306] Lewis and Clark give this as Warraconne (Elk shed their horns)
+Creek; now Beaver (or Sand) Creek, in Emmons County, North
+Dakota.--ED.
+
+[307] On a careful investigation, I have not been able to discover
+from what source Lewis and Clarke procured a part of their singular
+denominations for the affluents of the Missouri; for, in the languages
+of the neighbouring Indian nations, they have entirely different
+names.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[308] The French form for this river was Le Boulet. It rises somewhat
+north of the Black Hills, flows east in two branches across North
+Dakota, and empties into the Missouri in Morton County.--ED.
+
+[309] For a brief sketch of the Mandan, see our volume v, pp. 113,
+114, note 76. Maximilian is a chief authority for the customs of this
+interesting tribe. See our volume xxiii.--ED.
+
+[310] Alexander Harvey was a clerk of the American Fur Company. Born
+and reared in St. Louis, he quarrelled with his first employers while
+still a minor, and ran away to join the fur company. He was for
+several years at Fort McKenzie, and one of the participants in the
+Blackfoot massacre of 1843-44. Harvey was a bold and desperate
+character, and tales of his atrocities are narrated by Larpenteur, a
+fellow employe. In 1845 he left the company's employ, and organized a
+rival concern, of which he was head. He was living at Fort Yates as
+late as 1896.--ED.
+
+[311] The black-tailed or mule deer of the Americans (_Cervus
+macrotis_, Say), has been described, by later zoologists, from an
+imperfect skin; I will, therefore, give an imperfect description from
+nature. It is larger than the Virginian deer, not so light, has a
+larger hoof, much longer ears, and does not run so swiftly--not
+quicker than a buffalo cow. It casts its horns in March, and throws
+off the rough skin of them in August. They have, generally, only one
+young one--sometimes two; they are marked with white spots, on a pale
+yellowish-red ground. One of these animals, of three or four years
+old, in shape nearly resembled the Virginian deer; the hair of the
+body was hard and scanty; the whole of a pale yellowish-red; the
+breast greyish-brown, and, on the belly, yellowish-white. In winter,
+the colour nearly resembles that of our deer in the same season. Each
+of the horns of this deer had four antlers, nearly as in _Cervus
+elaphus_. Woodcut B represents the horns of a large deer of this
+species.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See p. 347, for illustration of antlers of deer.
+
+[312] Marked on Lewis and Clark's map as Shepherd River; it is now
+Apple Creek, flowing from the east in Bismarck County, North
+Dakota.--ED.
+
+[313] For Heart River, see our volume v, p. 148, note 91.--ED.
+
+[314] On the west bank; Square Butte Creek takes its name
+therefrom.--ED.
+
+[315] Lewis and Clark here met a party of Mandan on a hunting
+excursion. This creek has not been certainly identified, the river's
+bed having changed in the vicinity. It is probably Deer Creek, in
+Oliver County.--ED.
+
+[316] Old Mandan villages had been scattered all along this reach of
+the river, Lewis and Clark noting the first remains below Heart
+River.--ED.
+
+[317] The Cheyenne River of North Dakota--not to be confused with the
+Missour affluent in South Dakota--is the largest western tributary of
+Red River of the North. Devil's Lake, a large body of fresh water in
+Halsey County, was a favorite habitat of the Sioux. South of it is now
+an Indian reservation, chiefly for Sisseton and Wahpeton Sioux. St.
+Peter's River is the present Minnesota; its source is in Big Stone
+Lake, on the boundary of Minnesota and South Dakota.--ED.
+
+[318] Lewis and Clark called the first Mandan village Ma-too-ton-ka.
+This was in a wooded bend, three miles below the site of Fort
+Clark.--ED.
+
+[319] Fort Clark, named in honor of General William Clark, was built
+in 1831 as the American Fur Company's post among the Mandan. An
+earlier post near by, had been the company's home since 1822. Fort
+Clark was second in importance only to Forts Union and Pierre. A
+trusted employe was kept as chief factor, and the post was maintained
+until the close of the fur-trading era. Its site was eight miles below
+the mouth of Big Knife River, on the west bank, some eighty or ninety
+paces back from the river, and about three-quarters of a mile lower
+down and on the opposite side of the river from Fort Mandan, Lewis and
+Clark's wintering place (1804-05).--ED.
+
+[320] The Wolf chief, called by the French traders Chef de Loup, and
+by Catlin Ha-na-ta-nu-mauk, was head chief of the nation. Of an
+austere and haughty nature, he was feared rather than beloved by the
+tribe, whose idol was Four Bears, the second chief. Bodmer painted
+this chief in two ways (see Plates 46 and 47, in the accompanying
+atlas, our volume xxv). Catlin also secured his likeness both in full
+dress and in mourning. Catlin describes in detail a buffalo robe
+covered with paintings representing his exploits; see Catlin, _North
+American Indians_, i, pp. 145-154.--ED.
+
+[321] James Kipp was born in Canada in 1788. When about twenty years
+of age he entered the fur-trade, as hunter and trapper in the Red
+River region. By 1818 he was on the upper Missouri, and became the
+agent of the Columbia Fur Company at its Mandan post. Later, he became
+a trusted employe of the American Fur Company, building Fort Piegan
+among the Blackfeet (1831). For many years he was chief factor at Fort
+Clark, transferring (1835) to Fort McKenzie. Audubon found him in
+charge of Fort Alexander, on the Yellowstone, in 1843, and two years
+later he was entrusted with the important post at Fort Union. He
+retired from the fur-trade in 1865, and settled upon his Missouri
+farm, which he had acquired many years before. As late as 1876 he once
+more visited the Mandan, whose language he was said to have been the
+first white man to master.--ED.
+
+[322] For Toussaint Charbonneau, see Brackenridge's _Journal_, in our
+volume vi, p. 32, note 3.--ED.
+
+[323] For the Crow Indians, see our volume v, p. 226, note 121.--ED.
+
+[324] See Plate 13, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[325] See Plate 49, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[326] See p. 347, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.--ED.
+
+[327] For the traditions of the first man, Nu-mohk-muck-a-nah, consult
+Catlin, _North American Indians_, i, pp. 178-181.--ED.
+
+[328] For the Minitaree, see our volume v, pp. 113, 114, note 76. An
+extended account is given by Washington Matthews, "Ethnography and
+Philology of the Hidatsa Indians," in United States Geological and
+Geographical Survey of the Territories, _Miscellaneous Publications_,
+No. 7 (Washington, 1877). Maximilian classes with the Minitaree
+villages that of the Ahnahaway, or Gens des Souliers, also called
+Wetersoon, whom Lewis and Clark considered a separate though allied
+tribe.--ED.
+
+[329] See Plate 81, figures 5 and 6, in the accompanying atlas, volume
+xxv of our series.--ED.
+
+[330] _Ibid._, figure 10.--ED.
+
+[331] Catlin says that Long Hair was the head chief of the tribe,
+having received his office from the circumstance of having the longest
+hair in the tribe. Campbell and Sublette stated that they had lived in
+his lodge and examined his hair, which measured ten feet and seven
+inches of natural growth.--ED.
+
+[332] Fort Cass was built by the American Fur Company in the autumn of
+1832, on the right bank of the Yellowstone, two or three miles below
+the mouth of the Bighorn. It was intended for the Crow trade, and
+frequently was called Tulloch's fort from its founder, a company
+employe. Wyeth, on his famous voyage, passed this fort in a bull-boat,
+August 18, 1833. See Irving, _Rocky Mountains_, ii, pp. 159-161. About
+1838 Fort Cass was abandoned in favor of Fort Van Buren farther down
+the Yellowstone.--ED.
+
+[333] The bardaches will be spoken of when we are treating of the
+customs of the Mandans.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[334] See p. 347, for illustration of Sioux burial stages.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+VOYAGE FROM FORT CLARKE TO FORT UNION, NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE YELLOW
+STONE RIVER, FROM THE 19TH TO THE 24TH JUNE
+
+   Ruhptare, the second Village of the Mandans--The Villages of the
+   Manitaries on the Knife River--Interview with the
+   Manitaries--Winter Villages of that Nation--Remarkable
+   Hills--Mountain L'Ours qui Danse--Little Missouri
+   River--Territory of the Assiniboins--Kiasax and Matsokui, two
+   Blackfeet Indians--The Grizzly Bear--Interview with the
+   Assiniboins--The Bighorn--Muddy River, Lewis and Clarke's White
+   Earth River--Yellow Stone River--Fort Union.
+
+
+On the 19th June, the Assiniboin left Fort Clarke, with a high, cold
+wind, and clouded sky; the thermometer, at nine in the morning, being
+at 60-1/2 deg. The chiefs, and other Indians, had come on board, and
+also Kiasax, a Blackfoot Indian, who wished to return to his own people.
+The country, on the south bank, appeared to us to have some
+resemblance with many parts on the banks of the Rhine; but, on the
+right bank, there soon appeared those singular hills, resembling
+fortifications. At ten o'clock, we came to Ruhptare, the second Mandan
+village, on the south bank, which is situated in a plain a little
+higher than the river. All the inhabitants, in their buffalo dresses,
+were collected on the bank, and some had taken their station on the
+tops of their huts to have a better view: the whole prairie was
+covered with people, Indians on horseback, and horses grazing. In the
+low willow thickets on the bank, the brown, naked children were
+running about; all the men had fans of eagles' feathers in their
+hands. The village was surrounded with a fence of palisades; and, with
+its spherical clay huts, looked like a New Zealand Hippah. Here, too,
+there were high poles near the village, on which skins and other
+things were hung, as offerings to the lord of life, or the sun, and
+numerous stages for the dead were scattered about the prairie. As we
+proceeded, the whole population accompanied us along the steep bank on
+foot and on horseback, followed by many of their large wolf dogs. The
+[pg. 178] country was pretty open and flat. We saw before us the fine
+broad mirror of the river, and, at a distance on the southern bank,
+the red mass of the clay huts of the lower village of the Manitaries,
+which we reached in half an hour. The Missouri is joined by the Knife
+River, on which the three villages of the Manitaries are built. The
+largest, which is the furthest from the Missouri, is called Elah-Sa
+(the village of the great willows); the middle one, Awatichay (the
+little village), where Charbonneau, the interpreter, lives; and the
+third, Awachawi (le village des souliers), which is the smallest,
+consisting of only eighteen huts, situated at the mouth of Knife
+River.[335] While we were examining this interesting country, and
+receiving from Charbonneau many particulars respecting these villages,
+in which he had lived for more than thirty years, our Indian
+companions were sitting or lying about the fire, smoking their pipes.
+Among them was Dipauch (the broken arm), a tall, stout man, with whom
+I frequently came in contact in the following winter. His long, thick
+hair was bound together in a large queue, and on his breast he wore a
+silver gorget, which he had received as a present from the Whites. The
+expression of his countenance was agreeable, whereas that of Berock
+Itainu (bull's neck), a similar colossus, the inseparable companion of
+the former, was gloomy and less pleasing. Both were six feet high, and
+Berock Itainu wore his hair tied together in a knot upon his head.
+Mato-Tope (the four bears), the eminent Mandan chief, whom I have
+before mentioned, and Charata-Numakshi (the chief of the wolves), were
+also present; and I purchased from the former his painted buffalo
+dress, which had hitherto been his medicine (_i.e._ charm), which he
+highly valued as a _souvenir_ of his brother, who had been shot by the
+enemy. Our cookery pleased them much; they were fond of coffee, and
+sugar was a great delicacy; but they cannot make maple sugar like the
+Indians in the woody country, because the trees are neither numerous
+nor strong enough to produce this article.
+
+When we turned our eyes from the dark brown inhabitants to the
+surrounding scenery, we saw, on the banks, grey hills, with level
+prairies and willow thickets next the river, and the country, in
+general, was rather flat than mountainous. The hills were partly
+depressed at the top--a feature which is almost peculiar to these
+hills. At noon the sun burst forth, and the thermometer was at 76 deg.,
+with a high wind. The south bank of the river was now animated by a
+crowd of Indians, both on foot and on horseback; they were the
+Manitaries, who had flocked from their three villages to see the
+steamer and to welcome us. The appearance of this vessel of the
+Company, which comes up, once in two years, to the Yellow Stone River,
+is an event of the greatest importance to the Indians; they then come
+from considerable distances to see this hissing machine, which they
+look upon as one of the most wonderful medicines (charms) of the white
+men. The sight of the red-brown crowd collected on the river side, for
+even their buffalo skins were mostly of this colour, was, in the
+highest degree, striking. We already saw above a hundred of them, with
+many dogs, some of which drew sledges, and others, wooden boards
+[pg. 179] fastened to their backs, and the ends trailing on the ground,
+to which the baggage was attached with leather straps. The Indians
+hastened through the willow thicket, and, altogether, stood opposite
+to us on the steep, low, sandy bank, where they were so crowded that
+we, every moment, expected to see the sand give way.
+
+The most attractive sight which we had yet met with upon this voyage,
+now presented itself to our view. The steamboat lay to close to the
+willow thicket, and we saw, immediately before us, the numerous,
+motley, gaily painted, and variously ornamented crowd of the most
+elegant Indians on the whole course of the Missouri. The handsomest
+and most robust persons, of both sexes and all ages, in highly
+original, graceful, and characteristic costumes, appeared, thronged
+together, to our astonished eye; and there was, all at once, so much
+to see and to observe, that we anxiously profited by every moment to
+catch only the main features of this unique picture. The Manitaries
+are, in fact, the tallest and best formed Indians on the Missouri,
+and, in this respect, as well as in the elegance of their costume, the
+Crows alone approach them, whom they, perhaps, even surpass in the
+latter particular. Their faces were, in general, painted red, in which
+the North Americans agree with the Brazilians, and many other South
+Americans; their long hair hung in broad flat braids down their backs;
+on the side of each eye, they had hanging, from the forehead, a string
+of white and blue beads, alternating with tooth shells, and their
+heads were adorned with feathers, stuck in the hair.
+
+The expression of their remarkable countenances, as they gazed at us,
+was very various; in some, it was cold and disdainful; in others,
+intense curiosity; in others, again, good-nature and simplicity. The
+upper parts of their bodies were, in general, naked, and the fine
+brown skin of their arms adorned with broad, bright bracelets of a
+white metal. In their hands they carried their musket, bow and
+battle-axe; their quivers, of otter skin, elegantly decorated, were
+slung over their backs; their leggins were trimmed with tufts of the
+hair of the enemies whom they had killed, with dyed horse-hair of
+different colours, and with a profusion of leather fringe, and
+beautifully embroidered with stripes of dyed porcupine quills, or
+glass beads, of the most brilliant colours. These handsome, robust
+men, showing their remarkably fine white teeth as they smiled, gave
+free expression to their feelings; and the unnatural and ugly
+fashions, as well as the different costumes of the white people,
+probably afforded ample matter for satirical observations, for which
+these children of nature have a peculiar turn. All these Indians were
+dressed in their very finest clothes, and they completely attained
+their object; for they made, at least upon us strangers, a very lively
+impression. Many of them were distinguished by wearing leather shirts,
+of exquisite workmanship, which they obtain by barter from the Crows.
+Several tall, athletic men were on horseback, and managed their
+horses, which were frightened by the noise of the steam-boats, with an
+ease which afforded us pleasure. Urging them with their short whips in
+the manner of the Cossacks, with the bridle fastened to the lower jaw,
+they, at length, pushed the [pg. 180] light, spirited animals through
+the willow thicket, till they reached the river, where these fine bold
+horsemen, resembling the Circassians, with their red-painted
+countenances, were regarded with great admiration. Many of them wore
+the large valuable necklace, made of long bears' claws, and their
+handsomely-painted buffalo robe was fastened round the waist by a
+girdle. In general they had no stirrups, but sat very firmly on the
+naked backs of the horses, and several rode on a saddle resembling the
+Hungarian saddle. Among the young women we observed some who were very
+pretty, the white of whose sparkling hazel eyes formed a striking
+contrast with the vermilion faces. I regret that it is impossible,
+by any description, to give the reader a distinct idea of such a
+scene, and there was not sufficient time for Mr. Bodmer to make a
+drawing of it. The following winter, however, afforded us an
+opportunity, in some measure, to supply this deficiency.
+
+  [Illustration: A Blackfoot musical instrument]
+
+The chiefs of the Manitaries came on board for a short time; among
+them were old Addi-Hiddisch (the road maker), Pehriska-Ruhpa (the two
+ravens), Lachpizi-Sihrish (the yellow bear), and several others, and
+with them the Blackfoot Kiasax, in his best dress, who was to make the
+voyage along with us. He was accompanied by his Manitari wife, who
+carried a little child, wrapped in a piece of leather, fastened with
+straps. She wept much at parting from her husband, and the farewell
+scene was very interesting. While this was going on, an Indian, on the
+shore, was employed in keeping off the crowd with a long willow rod,
+which he laid about the women and children with a right hearty good
+will, when, by their curiosity, they hindered our _engages_ and crew
+in loosening the vessel from the shore. The vessel, however, was ready
+to start; Mr. Kipp, Charbonneau, the interpreter, and the Manitari
+chiefs, took leave, and hastened to land, on which the Assiniboin
+proceeded rapidly up the Missouri. The Indians followed us, for a
+time, along the bank; about thirty of them formed an interesting group
+on horseback, two sometimes sitting on the same beast. As the willow
+thickets on the banks ceased, we had a good view of the prairie, where
+many Indian horsemen were galloping about; herds of horses fled from
+the noise of the vessel. The friends and relations of Kiasax and
+Matsokui--for we had taken another Blackfoot on board--followed the
+vessel longer than any of the others; they frequently called to them,
+and nodded farewell, to which Kiasax answered with a long wooden
+pipe, upon which he played a wretched piece of music.[336] This Mandan
+pipe, which the Indians, on the Upper Missouri, frequently use, is
+from two and a half to three feet long, rather wider at the lower end,
+and has a hole on the upper side, which is alternately opened and shut
+with the finger. By way of ornament, an eagle's feather is fastened
+[pg. 181] to the end of the instrument with a string, which is generally
+a medicine or talisman of the owner. Kiasax set a high value on his
+pipe, which he held constantly in his hand, and would not sell on any
+terms. A violent storm, accompanied by heavy rain, compelled us to lay
+to, for ten minutes, on the left bank, where the river is bounded by
+steep high hills. At this spot Major Pilcher had formerly established
+a trading post for the Crows and Assiniboins.[337] There were, at that
+time, no such posts further up the Missouri, but it has since been
+abandoned, and no trace of it is now to be seen. Before us was a fine
+extensive view of romantic gradations of the tongues of land, singular
+mountain tops and cones; and, on the grey chain of hills, we again saw
+the black horizontal parallel strata of the bituminous coal, which
+accompany, without interruption, the course of the Missouri. This
+black fossil has often been examined, with the hope that it might be
+employed as fuel, but it is unserviceable, has a very bad smell, and
+is of no use even for blacksmiths' work.[338] These black strata have
+evidently undergone, in former times, the action of fire; and we
+everywhere observed, on the ridges of the hills, clay or clay-slate
+formations, either in the shape of cones, or angular, like
+fortifications. Many of these pyramids are perfectly regular, and
+stand on a broad basis, furrowed by the water; some are square, and
+others regularly flattened. The strata of bituminous coal extend along
+the base of most of them; all these singularly-formed rocks have,
+doubtless, been elevated by the action of subterraneous fire. The
+evening sun illumined the grotesque pyramidal hills, and their shadows
+gave us a clear idea of their forms. The northern declivity of the
+mountains was partly covered with bushes; the southern, almost always
+naked and bare. Towards nightfall we passed the winter village of the
+Manitaries,[339] situated in a forest, which, at this time, was
+without inhabitants, and then came to a tongue of land on the right
+hand, with a high, steep, rocky bank, on which Mr. Sandford once
+found, in the month of April, great numbers of serpents, which he
+estimated at several thousands. They appear to have consisted of two
+species only, which, by their description, were, doubtless, the _Col.
+sirtalis_ and _flaviventris_ of Say. All the holes and pits in the
+sides of the rock, and between the blocks of stone on the bank, are
+said to have been full of them. In one small ravine they lay coiled up
+in balls; several hundreds of them were killed, the Americans, in
+general, having an antipathy to these animals. Bradbury, too, mentions
+large heaps of serpents, under stones, along the Missouri, but at
+another season of the year. That serpents must abound in these parts,
+seems to be proved by the name of a small stream, which is called
+Snake Creek. Half a mile from this place, the Miry Creek flows, from a
+flat meadow;[340] on the hills beyond we saw some antelopes.
+
+On the following morning, the 20th of June, we perceived, in a forest
+on the bank, fifteen Indians, and soon afterwards four large elks,
+which would have been a welcome prey to the hunters, had they been
+aware of their being so near. One of the strata of black coal on the
+generally flat hills of this part of the country had lately been on
+fire; we did not, however, perceive any smoke.
+
+[pg. 182] After ten o'clock, having taken in fuel, we came to singular
+hills, flattened at the top, which are called L'Ours qui Danse,
+because it is said the Indians here celebrate the bear dance, a
+medicine feast, in order to obtain success in the chase.[341] At noon
+there was a high cold wind while the thermometer was at 70 deg. The
+country was rather flat, and the river was bordered by green forests;
+on the right bank, in particular, the wood was beautiful, lofty, and
+dark. Here we observed many traces of beavers, such as gnawed trees
+and paths leading to the water's edge. Our hunters gradually returned
+to the bank; they had shot two Virginian deer, an antelope, and a
+prairie hen. Mr. Bodmer, who returned to the vessel much fatigued and
+heated, brought with him a stone[342] of the shape of a battle-axe,
+which had been found in the prairie.[343]
+
+  [Illustration: Stone battle-axe]
+
+Continuing our voyage, we saw the buffaloes hasten away, and moored
+our vessel at twilight to some trees on the north bank. All over the
+plain there were deeply trodden paths of the buffaloes. On the morning
+following, the 21st, the river had risen considerably, and brought
+down trunks of trees, branches, &c., which covered the surface, and
+gave our vessel some violent shocks: strips of wood, and desolate
+hills, without any vegetation, appeared. On the southern bank we came
+to a green spot at the mouth of the Little Missouri,[344] which is
+reckoned to be 1670 miles from the mouth of the Great Missouri. The
+chain of blue hills, with the same singular forms as we had seen
+before, appeared on the other side of this river. In the forests roses
+in full blossom formed a thick underwood, which was traversed by the
+path of the buffaloes. Before noon we reached the territory of the
+Assiniboins, and were, at this time, at Wild Onion Creek.[345] Kiasax
+(l'ours gauche--left-handed or awkward bear) had permitted Mr. Bodmer
+to take his portrait, without making any objection, whereas Matsokui
+(beautiful hair) was not to be persuaded to do so, affirming that he
+must then infallibly die. It turned out in the sequel that he was to
+die, and Kiasax to return, unhurt by the enemy. The latter had adopted
+the costume of the Manitaries, but at the same time wrapped himself in
+a Spanish blanket, striped blue, white and black, which, as well as a
+metal cross, which he wore suspended round his neck, was a proof of
+the intercourse between the Blackfoot Indians and the Spaniards near
+the Rocky Mountains. These two Indians appeared to be very quiet,
+obliging men. Thus, for instance, they never [pg. 183] returned from an
+excursion on shore, without bringing me some handfulls of plants,
+often, it is true, only common grass, because they had observed that
+we always brought plants home with us.
+
+We lay to about three miles below Goose Egg Lake. A white wolf
+accompanied the steam-boat as it proceeded. We came to the canal which
+joins Goose Egg Lake to the Missouri, which I was unable to examine,
+as the steamer did not stop. Here the river makes a great bend, which,
+as well as that near Fort Lookout, is called by some Canadians Le
+Grand Detour.[346] Early on the following morning, the 22nd, we saw
+wild animals of various kinds, such as buffaloes, elks, and Virginian
+deer. The wild geese with their young suffered us to approach pretty
+closely, because, at this season, they moult their long wing feathers.
+About ten o'clock we had an alarm of fire on board: the upper deck had
+been set on fire by the iron pipe of the chimney of the great cabin.
+We immediately lay to, and, by breaking up the deck, the danger was
+soon over, which, however, was not inconsiderable, as we had many
+barrels of powder on board. We had scarcely got over this trouble,
+when another arose; the current of the swollen river was so strong,
+that we long contended against it to no purpose, in order to turn a
+certain point of land, while, at the same time, the high west wind was
+against us, and both together threw the vessel back three times on the
+south coast. The first shock was so violent, that the lower deck
+gallery was broken to pieces. Our second attempt succeeded no better;
+part of the paddle-box was broken, and carried away by the current. We
+were now obliged to land forty men to tow the vessel, for which
+purpose all on board voluntarily offered their services, even the two
+Blackfeet overcame their natural laziness. Beyond this dangerous
+place, we took on board the hunters whom we had sent out. They were
+covered from head to foot with blood, and hung about with game, having
+killed two elks. The effect of the current and the wind upon our
+vessel continued for a long time. It was often thrown against the
+alluvial bank, so that the deck was covered with earth, and the track
+of our vessel clearly marked along the clayey sand bank. After four
+o'clock we stopped at a narrow verdant prairie in front of the hills,
+to fell wood: several pretty plants, among which was a juniper with
+the berries still green, were found here. The cat bird, the wren and
+blackbird animated the thickets, and we observed also the great curlew
+(_Numenius longirostris_). A very large elk horn of twelve antlers had
+been found; a number of them lie about in all the forests and
+prairies, of which no use is made. In the afternoon we saw in the
+prairie of the north bank a large grizzly bear, and immediately sent
+Ortubize and another hunter in pursuit of him, but to no purpose. Soon
+after we saw two other bears, one of a whitish, the other of a dark
+colour, and our hunters, when they returned, affirmed that they had
+wounded the largest. Harvey had shot an elk, and brought the best part
+of it from a great distance, and with considerable exertion, to the
+river. From this place upwards, the grey bear became more and more
+common; further down the river it is still rare. Brackenridge says, it
+is not found below the [pg. 184] Mandan villages, but this is not quite
+correct. Near the prairie where we saw the bears, is the mouth of
+White Earth River, called by Lewis and Clarke, Goat-pen River.[347]
+Here we crossed the Missouri, and lay to for the night on the south
+coast, where some of our people landed to set traps for the beavers.
+Harvey had the good fortune to catch, during the night, a young
+beaver, which he brought on board alive, on the following morning, the
+23rd. The iron trap had broken one of the legs of the little beaver,
+and with all our care we could not keep it alive. The surrounding
+country on the banks of the Missouri, which is here very broad, again
+showed the singularly formed angular hills flattened at the top like
+tables: several pretty prairies, in which the white artemisia and
+other beautiful plants grew, extended at the foot of the eminences, on
+the declivity of which the buffalo berry and the creeping juniper were
+common; henceforward the clay cones were partly burnt as red as
+bricks, which was a clear proof of their origin. Many of them had
+parallel horizontal stripes, projecting a little, of harder sandstone
+strata, which had resisted the influence of the elements more than the
+intermediate strata of clay and sand.
+
+The vessel laying to, about eleven o'clock, near a wood on the south
+bank, we suddenly perceived on the north bank some Indians, who
+immediately called to us. They were the first Assiniboins that we had
+met with; they sat upon the bank waiting for the boat which Mr. Mc
+Kenzie sent to them. After a short pause they came on board the
+steamer, and proved to be Stassaga (le brecheux), who was well known
+to Mr. Mc Kenzie, with seven of his people of the branch called by the
+French, Gens des Filles.[348] The chief, a robust, thick-set man,
+rather above the middle size, wore his hair tied behind in a thick
+queue, and cut short in front; he had bound across the crown a slip of
+whitish skin; in his ears he had strings of blue and white glass
+beads; round his neck a collar of bears' claws; the upper part of his
+body was wrapped in a red woollen shirt; his legs were quite bare, but
+he had a pair of handsomely embroidered leggins which he put on when
+his people left the vessel. He was wrapped in a buffalo robe, and had
+in his hand a musket, and an eagle's wing for a fan. Another robust
+man had smeared his face, about the eyes, with white clay. The rest of
+these Indians were neither well formed nor well dressed, but dirty and
+slovenly. Their hair hung in disorder about their heads; some of them
+had made it up into three plaits; their legs were mostly bare; only a
+couple of them had leggins. One of them, with a Jewish physiognomy,
+wore a white wolf skin cap. Some of them were marked with two parallel
+tattooed black stripes from the neck down the breast; the upper parts
+of their bodies were naked, but they were wrapped in buffalo robes.
+Most of them had guns, and all, without distinction, bows and arrows,
+the latter in a quiver or bag made of skin, to which also the case for
+the bow is attached, as shown in the woodcut.[349]
+
+As the Assiniboins are a branch of the Sioux, Ortubize was able to act
+as interpreter. They were made to sit down round the great cabin, and
+the pipe circulated; they likewise [pg. 185] received abundance of food,
+which seemed to please them much. They said that since they came to
+these parts in the spring, they had suffered much from want of food,
+buffaloes being scarce. They intended shortly to leave this part of
+the country, but the chief wished to go with us to Fort Union, which
+we allowed him to do. After they had been shown about the vessel, the
+steam-engine of which greatly excited their attention, though they
+suppressed any mark of surprise, they were landed in a lofty poplar
+grove on the north bank.
+
+After dinner, we proceeded along the side of a prairie, where we heard
+the note of the great curlew. The valley of the river was bounded on
+both sides by very remarkable whitish-grey, obliquely stratified
+ridges, with singular spots of red clay, and bushes in the ravines; at
+their feet was the prairie, covered with pale green artemisia; and on
+the tongues of land, at the windings of the Missouri, there were fine
+poplar groves, with an undergrowth of roses in full bloom,
+buffalo-berry bushes, and many species of plants. On the mountains we
+again saw naked rounded cones of earth, as if they had been thrown up
+by moles, and, on the tops of some of them, a little turret, or cone,
+while their sides were rounded by the rain water, or marked with
+parallel perpendicular furrows.
+
+On our further progress up the river, we saw, for the first time, the
+animal known by the name of the bighorn, or the Rocky Mountain sheep,
+the _Ovis montana_ of the zoologists. A ram and two sheep of this
+species stood on the summit of the highest hill, and, after looking at
+our steamer, slowly retired. These animals are not frequent
+hereabouts, but we afterwards met with them in great numbers. We here
+took on board some cord wood, which the different trading posts had
+employed their _engages_ to get ready for the steamboat.
+
+On the 24th, in the morning, we found the banks wooded, and beyond the
+thickets were the chain of hills, in the middle of which were strata
+of the colour of red bricks. Cones of that colour, and sometimes
+detached grey figures, with a red base, crowned the heights. Many
+varied colours showed that these eminences must have undergone the
+action of fire. About eight o'clock we came to the mouth of Muddy
+River (the White Earth River of Lewis and Clarke), which issues from a
+thicket on the north bank.[350] In this part we saw smoke on the
+bank, and, soon afterwards, some Assiniboins, one of whom fired three
+shots to attract our attention: others soon came up, and we took them
+on board. They were robust men, with high cheek-bones, well dressed,
+all in leather shirts, their legs mostly bare, and their hair hanging
+smooth about their heads; one of them took off the leather case of his
+bow, and wrapped it round his head like a turban, so that a little
+tuft of feathers, at one end of it, stood upright. Following the
+numerous windings of the Missouri, from one chain of hills to another,
+we reached, at seven o'clock in the evening, the mouth of the Yellow
+Stone, a fine river, hardly inferior in breadth to the Missouri at
+this part. It issues below the high grey chain of hills, and its mouth
+is bordered with a fine wood of tall poplars, with willow thickets.
+The two rivers unite in an obtuse angle; and there [pg. 186] is a sudden
+turn of the Missouri to the north-west; it is not wooded at the
+junction, but flows between prairies thirty or more miles in extent.
+Herds of buffaloes are often seen here; at this time they had left
+these parts: we saw, however, many antelopes. At the next turn of the
+river, towards the right hand, we had a fine prospect. Gentle
+eminences, with various rounded or flat tops, covered with bright
+verdure, formed the back-ground; before them, tall poplar groves, and
+willow thickets on the bank of the river, whose dark blue waters,
+splendidly illumined by the setting sun, flowed, with many windings,
+through the prairie. A little further on lay Fort Union, on a verdant
+plain, with the handsome American flag, gilded by the last rays of
+evening, floating in the azure sky, while a herd of horses grazing
+animated the peaceful scene.[351]
+
+As the steamer approached, the cannon of Fort Union fired a salute,
+with a running fire of musketry, to bid us welcome, which was answered
+in a similar manner by our vessel. When we reached the fort, we were
+received by Mr. Hamilton, an Englishman, who, during the absence of
+Mr. Mc Kenzie, had performed the functions of director,[352] as well
+as by several clerks of the Company, and a number of their servants
+(_engages_ or _voyageurs_), of many different nations, Americans,
+Englishmen, Germans, Frenchmen, Russians, Spaniards, and Italians,
+about 100 in number, with many Indians, and half-breed women and
+children. It was the seventy-fifth day since our departure from St.
+Louis, when the Assiniboin cast anchor at Fort Union.
+
+The Yellow Stone, being one of the principal affluents of the
+Missouri, receives several considerable streams, of which the
+following are the chief:--
+
+     1. The Bighorn River (_La Grosse Corne_).
+     2. The Little Bighorn River (_La Petite Grosse Corne_).
+     3. The Tongue River (_La Riviere a la Langue_).
+     4. The Powder River (_La Riviere a la Poudre_).
+
+The Yellow Stone is called, by the Canadians, La Roche Jaune. Warden
+calls it Keheetsa, but I do not know where he got this name. Lewis and
+Clarke say it has no name. The names given it by most of the Indian
+nations signify Elk River.[353]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[335] Knife River, called by the French Riviere de Couteau, and by the
+Indians Minah Wakpa, is a prairie stream, whose course is in general
+east, entering the Missouri in Mercer County, North Dakota. The town
+of Stanton is now on the site of the third village, Awachawi--ED.
+
+[336] See p. 361, for illustration of a Blackfoot musical
+instrument.--ED.
+
+[337] This fort of Pilcher, built for the Missouri Fur Company about
+1822, was about eleven miles above the mouth of Knife River, and named
+Fort Vanderburgh. Not proving profitable, it was maintained but a
+short time. See another mention in our volume xxiii, chapter
+xxiii.--ED.
+
+[338] See article by O. D. Wheeler, in _Wonderland_ (1904), on the
+recent development of the lignite coal area of North Dakota.--ED.
+
+[339] It was a custom of the Minitaree, maintained until 1866, to
+leave their permanent village each winter for a spot where fuel was
+convenient, and there build log-cabins, very warm and secure, as
+winter quarters. They thus preserved both the fuel supply, and the
+game in the neighborhood of their summer home.--ED.
+
+[340] Miry Creek appears to be the present Snake Creek, in McLean
+County, North Dakota, the one which Maximilian designates as Snake
+being a small run from a cliff which was known as Snake den. See
+_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 291.--ED.
+
+[341] See description of bear-dance, with illustration, in Catlin,
+_North American Indians_, i, pp. 242-245.--ED.
+
+[342] These stones are generally granite, not sharp, but rounded in
+front; are used by the Indians to break the large bones of the
+buffaloes, of the marrow of which they are very fond. Stones closely
+resembling these are found among the Blackfoot Indians.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[343] See p. 361, for illustration of a stone battle-axe.--ED.
+
+[344] The Little Missouri is the most important North Dakota affluent
+of the Missouri, above the Cannonball. It rises on the northwestern
+slopes of the Black Hills and flows north for some distance, thence
+turning northeast and east to enter the main river in Williams County.
+It is a broad but shallow stream, impregnated with alkali.--ED.
+
+[345] Wild Onion Creek was so named by Lewis and Clark because of the
+quantity of that plant growing upon its bordering plains. Within
+Garfield County, North Dakota, it is now denominated Pride Creek.--ED.
+
+[346] Goose Egg Lake, so named by the explorers "from the circumstance
+of my [Clark] shooting a goose on her nest on some sticks in the top
+of a high cotton wood tree in which there was one egg," is now Cold
+Spring Lake (_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i,
+pp. 304, 305). The great bend (Grand Detour) is still so named, but is
+much wider than the lower bend, being nearly ten miles across, and
+over twenty around the curve.--ED.
+
+[347] Coues, _Lewis and Clark Expedition_, i, p. 274, identifies Goat
+Pen Creek with Upper Knife River. Maximilian's identification of this
+stream as the present White Earth River appears to accord better with
+the _Original Journals_ (i, p. 313). The White Earth rises in Coteau
+des Prairies, and flows directly south into the Missouri. Lewis and
+Clark applied the name to a river farther up, near the forks of the
+Yellowstone. See note 348, _post_, p. 372.--ED.
+
+[348] For the Assiniboin see our volume ii, p. 168, note 75. They
+separated from the Wazikute gens of the Yanktonnai Sioux before the
+middle of the seventeenth century. The Dakota stigmatize them as
+"Hohe" (rebels). Lewis and Clark name three bands of these people, of
+whom they heard along the Missouri--Gens de Canoe, Gens des Filles,
+and Gens des Grand Diables. The Gens des Filles (girl band) was
+composed of about sixty tents, its head chief being Les Yeux Gris
+(Grey Eyes). See United States Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, 1894-95,
+p. 223.--ED.
+
+[349] See p. 287, for illustration of bows, arrows, and quiver.--ED.
+
+[350] The White Earth River of Lewis and Clark, now Muddy River, is a
+northern affluent of the Missouri, taking its name from the mud by
+which its mouth is choked. Above the mouth it is a clear and partly
+navigable stream, flowing through a valley nearly five miles wide,
+fertile although treeless. It enters the Missouri in Buford County,
+having the town of Williston at its mouth.--ED.
+
+[351] Fort Union was the most important post of the American Fur
+Company on the upper Missouri. It was commenced in the autumn of 1828
+(Maximilian says 1829), being at first known as Fort Floyd--another
+Fort Union existing higher up the river, which was abandoned, and the
+property transferred to the fort at the mouth of the Yellowstone. The
+actual site was five miles above the meeting of the rivers, on the
+north bank of the Missouri; see _Larpenteur's Journal_, i, pp. 50, 68.
+The fort was injured by fire in 1832, but substantially rebuilt, Wyeth
+(1833) pronouncing it superior to the Oregon forts of the British
+companies. Maintained until 1867, it was finally abandoned, part of
+its effects being transferred to the government post Fort Buford, some
+miles below.--ED.
+
+[352] Our knowledge of Hamilton is chiefly derived from the pages of
+Larpenteur, who says that the former was an English nobleman, whose
+real name was Archibald Palmer. Having become involved in some
+difficulties, he assumed the name James Archdale Hamilton, and having
+formed acquaintance with Kenneth McKenzie was sent by the latter as
+book-keeper to Fort Union, where he took full command during
+McKenzie's frequent absences. Hamilton was at this time about fifty
+years of age, punctilious in manner, particular in dress, and both
+respected and feared by his subordinates. Later he reverted to his own
+name and returned to St. Louis, becoming cashier for the American Fur
+Company, and dying in that city.--ED.
+
+[353] The French form for the name of this great river (Roche Jaune)
+was in early use; Chittenden (_Yellowstone National Park_ (Cincinnati,
+1895), pp. 1-7) thinks it a translation of the Indian term, derived
+from the predominant color of Yellowstone Canon. The first use of the
+English form appears to be in the writings of David Thompson, the
+English explorer (1798). See Elliott Coues, _New Light on the Early
+History of the Greater Northwest_ (New York, 1897), i, p. 302. The
+Crow Indians had a name for this stream, signifying "Elk."
+
+The reference is to D. B. Warden, _Statistical, Political, and
+Historical Account of the United States of North America_ (Edinburgh,
+1819), i, p. 93.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+DESCRIPTION OF FORT UNION AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD
+
+   Description of the Fort and its Vicinity--Its Inhabitants, and
+   the Fur Trade on the Upper Missouri--The Indian Branch of the
+   Assiniboins, the original Possessors of this Spot.
+
+
+The erection of Fort Union was commenced in the autumn of 1829, by Mr.
+Mc Kenzie, and is now completed, except that some of the edifices
+which were erected in haste are under repair. The fort is situated on
+an alluvial eminence, on the northern bank of the Missouri, in a
+prairie, which extends about 1,500 paces to a chain of hills, on whose
+summit there are other wide-spreading plains. The river runs at a
+distance of scarcely fifty or sixty feet from the fort, in the direction
+from west to east; it is here rather broad, and the opposite bank is
+wooded. The fort itself forms a quadrangle, the sides of which measure
+about eighty paces in length, on the exterior. The ramparts consist of
+strong pickets, sixteen or seventeen feet high, squared, and placed
+close to each other, and surmounted by a _chevaux-de-frise_. On the
+south-west and north-east ends, there are block-houses, with pointed
+roofs, two stories high, with embrasures and some cannon, which,
+though small, are fit for service. In the front of the enclosure, and
+towards the river, is the well-defended principal entrance, with a
+large folding gate. Opposite the entrance, on the other side of the
+quadrangle, is the house of the commandant; it is one story high, and
+has four handsome glass windows on each side of the door. The roof is
+spacious, and contains a large, light loft. This house is very
+commodious, and, like all the buildings of the inner quadrangle,
+constructed of poplar wood, the staple wood for building in this
+neighbourhood. In the inner quadrangle are the residences of the
+clerks, the interpreters, and the _engages_, the powder magazine, the
+stores, or supplies of goods and bartered skins, various workshops for
+the handicraftsmen, smiths, carpenters, &c., stables for the horses
+and cattle, rooms for receiving and entertaining the Indians; and in
+the centre is the flag-staff, around which several half-breed Indian
+hunters had erected their leathern tents. A cannon was also placed
+here, with its mouth towards the principal [pg. 188] entrance.[354]
+The fort contains about fifty or sixty horses, some mules, and an
+inconsiderable number of cattle, swine, goats, fowls, and domestic
+animals. The cattle are very fine, and the cows yield abundance of
+milk. The horses are driven, in the day-time, into the prairie,
+guarded and exercised by armed men, and, in the evening, brought back
+into the quadrangle of the fort, where the greater part of them pass
+the night in the open air. Mr. Mc Kenzie has, however, lately had a
+separate place, or park, provided for them.
+
+Fort Union is one of the principal posts of the Fur Company, because
+it is the central point of the two other trading stations, still
+higher up, towards the Rocky Mountains, and having the superintendence
+of the whole of the trade in the interior, and in the vicinity of the
+mountains. One of these two trading stations, called Fort Cass, is 200
+miles up the Yellow Stone River, and is confined to the trade with the
+Crow tribe; the other, Fort Piekann, or, as it is now called, Fort Mc
+Kenzie, is 850[355] miles up the Missouri, or about a day's journey
+from the falls of this river, and carries on the fur trade with the
+three tribes of the Blackfoot Indians. The latter station has been
+established about two years, and, as the steamers cannot often go up
+to Fort Union, they despatch keel-boats, to supply the various trading
+posts with goods for barter with the Indians. They then pass the
+winter at these stations, and in the spring carry the furs to Fort
+Union, whence they are transported, in the course of the summer, to
+St. Louis, by the steamers.
+
+The Company maintains a number of agents at these different stations;
+during their stay they marry Indian women, but leave them, without
+scruple, when they are removed to another station, or are recalled to
+the United States. The lower class of these agents, who are called
+_engages_, or _voyageurs_, have to act as steersmen, rowers, hunters,
+traders, &c., according to their several capabilities. They are often
+sent great distances, employed in perilous undertakings among the
+Indians, and are obliged to fight against the enemy, and many of them
+are killed every year by the arms with which the Whites themselves
+have furnished the Indians. Some of the agents of the Fur Company
+winter every year in the Rocky Mountains.[356]
+
+The proprietors of the American Fur Company were Messrs. Astor, at New
+York, General Pratte, Chouteau, Cabanne, Mc Kenzie, Laidlow, and
+Lamont; the three latter had a share [pg. 189] in the fur trade on the
+Upper Missouri only. Wild beasts and other animals, whose skins are
+valuable in the fur trade, have already diminished greatly in number
+along this river, and it is said that, in another ten years, the fur
+trade will be very inconsiderable. As the supplies along the banks of
+the Missouri decreased, the Company gradually extended the circle of
+their trading posts, as well as enterprises, and thus increased their
+income. Above 500 of their agents are in the forts of the Upper
+Missouri, and at their various trading posts; and, besides these
+individuals, who receive considerable salaries (for it is said that
+the Company yearly expend 150,000 dollars in salaries), there are in
+these prairies, and the forests of the Rocky Mountains, beaver and fur
+trappers, who live at their own cost; but whose present wants, such as
+horses, guns, powder, ball, woollen cloths, articles of clothing,
+tobacco, &c. &c., are supplied by the Company, and the scores settled,
+after the hunting season is over, by the furs which they deliver at
+the different trading posts. Many of these, when not employed in
+hunting, live at the Company's forts. They are, for the most part,
+enterprising, robust men, capital riflemen, and, from their rude
+course of life, are able to endure the greatest hardships.
+
+During the summer, the Company send out, under the direction of an
+experienced clerk, a number of strong, well-armed, mounted men, who
+convey the necessary goods and supplies, on pack-horses, to the
+trading stations, at a distance from the river; they always observe
+and enforce the required conditions of the Indians, and not
+unfrequently come to blows with them. These expeditions have to
+support themselves by the chase, consequently the men must be good
+hunters, as they subsist almost exclusively on what they procure by
+their guns. Besides the forts which I have so often named, the Company
+has also small winter posts, called log-houses, or block-houses, among
+the Indians, quickly erected, and as quickly abandoned: to these the
+Indians bring their furs, which are purchased, and sent, in the
+spring, to the trading posts. The American Fur Company has, at
+present, about twenty-three, large and small, trading posts. In the
+autumn and winter the Indian tribes generally approach nearer to these
+posts, to barter their skins; while in the spring and summer they
+devote themselves especially to catching beavers, for which they
+receive every encouragement from the merchants, who lend or advance
+them iron traps for the purpose.
+
+The animals, whose skins are objects of this trade, and the annual
+average of the income derived from skins, may be pretty well
+ascertained from the following statement:
+
+1. Beavers: about 25,000 skins. They are sold in packs of 100 lbs.
+weight each, put up separately, and tied together. There are,
+generally, about sixty large skins in a pack; if they are smaller, of
+course there are more skins. A large beaver skin weighs about two
+pounds--sometimes more. The usual price is four dollars a pound.[357]
+
+[pg. 190] 2. Otters: 200 to 300 skins.
+
+3. Buffalo cow skins: 40,000 to 50,000. Ten buffalo hides go to the
+pack.
+
+4. Canadian weasel (_Musetela Canadensis_): 500 to 600.
+
+5. Martin (pine or beech martin): about the same quantity.
+
+6. Lynx; the northern lynx (_Felis Canadensis_): 1,000 to 2,000.
+
+7. Lynx; the southern or wild cat (_Felis rufa_): ditto.
+
+8. Red foxes (_Canis fulvus_): 2,000.
+
+9. Cross foxes: 200 to 300.
+
+10. Silver foxes: twenty to thirty. Sixty dollars are often paid for a
+single skin.
+
+11. Minks (_Mustela vison_): 2,000.
+
+12. Musk-rats (_Ondathra_): from 1,000 to 100,000.[358] According to
+Captain Back, half a million of these skins are annually imported into
+London, as this animal is found in equal abundance as far as the
+coasts of the Frozen Ocean.
+
+13. Deer (_Cervus Virginianus_ and _macrotis_): from 20,000 to 30,000.
+
+Beyond Council Bluffs, scarcely any articles are bartered by the
+Indians--especially the Joways, Konzas, and the Osages--except the
+skins of the _Cervus Virginianus_, which is found in great abundance,
+but is said to have fallen off there likewise very considerably.
+
+The elk (_Cervus Canadensis_, or _major_), is not properly
+comprehended in the trade, as its skin is too thick and heavy, and is,
+therefore, used for home consumption. The buffalo skin is taken, as
+before observed, from the cows only, as the leather of the bulls is
+too heavy. The wolf skins are not at all sought by the company, that
+is to say, they do not send out any hunters to procure them; but, if
+the Indians bring any, they are bought not to create any
+dissatisfaction, and then they are sold at about a dollar a-piece. The
+Indians, however, have frequently nothing to offer for barter but
+their dresses, and painted buffalo robes.
+
+The support of so large an establishment as that at Fort Union
+requires frequent hunting excursions into the prairie; and Mr. Mc
+Kenzie, therefore, maintained here several experienced hunters of a
+mixed race, who made weekly excursions to the distance of twenty or
+more miles into the prairie, sought the buffalo herds, and, after they
+had killed a sufficient number, returned home with their mules well
+laden. The flesh of the cows is very good, especially the tongues,
+which are smoked in great numbers, and then sent down to St. Louis.
+The colossal marrow-bones are considered quite a delicacy by the
+hunters and by the Indians. The consumption of [pg. 191] this animal is
+immense in North America, and is as indispensable to the Indians as
+the reindeer is to the Laplanders, and the seal to the Esquimaux. It
+is difficult to obtain an exact estimate of the consumption of this
+animal, which is yearly decreasing and driven further inland. In a
+recent year, the Fur Company sent 42,000 of these hides down the
+river, which were sold, in the United States, at four dollars a-piece.
+Fort Union alone consumes about 600 to 800 buffaloes annually, and the
+other forts in proportion. The numerous Indian tribes subsist almost
+entirely on these animals, sell their skins after retaining a
+sufficient supply for their clothing, tents, &c., and the agents of
+the Company recklessly shoot down these noble animals for their own
+pleasure, often not making the least use of them, except taking out
+the tongue. Whole herds of them are often drowned in the Missouri;
+nay, I have been assured that, in some rivers, 1,800 and more of their
+dead bodies were found in one place. Complete dams are formed of the
+bodies of these animals in some of the morasses of the rivers; from
+this we may form some idea of the decrease of the buffaloes, which are
+now found on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, where they were
+not originally met with, but whither they have been driven.
+
+Besides the buffalo, the hunters also shoot the elk, the deer, and,
+occasionally, the bighorn. The former especially are very numerous on
+the Yellow Stone River. All other provisions, such as pork, hams,
+flour, sugar, coffee, wine, and other articles of luxury for the
+tables of the chief officers and the clerks, are sent from St. Louis
+by the steamer. The maize is procured from the neighbouring Indian
+nations. Vegetables do not thrive at Fort Union, which Mr. Mc Kenzie
+ascribes to the long-continued drought and high winds.
+
+The neighbourhood around Fort Union is, as I have observed, a wide,
+extended prairie, intersected, in a northerly direction, by a chain of
+rather high, round, clay-slate, and sand-stone hills, from the summits
+of which we had a wide-spreading view over the country on the other
+side of the Missouri, and of its junction with the Yellow Stone, of
+which Mr. Bodmer made a very faithful drawing.[359] We observed on the
+highest points, and at certain intervals of this mountain chain,
+singular stone signals, set up by the Assiniboins, of blocks of
+granite, or other large stones, on the top of which is placed a
+buffalo skull,[360] which we were told the Indians place there to
+attract the herds of buffaloes, and thereby to ensure a successful
+hunt. The strata of sand-stone occurring in the above-mentioned hills
+are filled, at least in part, with impressions of the leaves of
+phanerogamic plants, resembling the species still growing in the
+country.[361] A whitish-grey and reddish-yellow sand-stone are found
+here. In all these prairies of North America, as well as in the plains
+of northern Europe, those remarkable blocks or fragments of red
+granite, are everywhere scattered, which have afforded the geologist
+subject for many hypotheses. Major Long's Expedition to St. Peter's
+River[362] mentions blocks of granite in the prairies of Illinois;
+they are found in abundance in the north, about St. Peter's [pg. 192]
+River, in the State of Ohio, &c. Other boulders, however, of quartz,
+flint, slate, &c., evidently formed by water, are found everywhere in
+the prairies. The hills were partly bare, and very few flowers were in
+blossom; the whole country was covered with short, dry grass, among
+which there were numerous round spots with tufts of _Cactus ferox_,
+which was only partly in flower. Another _cactus_, resembling
+_mammillaris_, with dark red flowers, yellow on the inner side, was
+likewise abundant. Of the first kind it seems that two exactly similar
+varieties, probably species, are found everywhere here; both have
+fine, large, bright yellow flowers, sometimes a greenish-yellow, and,
+on their first expanding, are often whitish, and the outer side of the
+petals, with a reddish tinge; but in one species, the staminae are
+bright yellow, like the flower itself, and, in the other, of a
+brownish blood red, with yellow anthers. The true flowering time of
+these plants begins at the end of June.
+
+The scene of destruction, which has often been mentioned, namely, the
+whitening bones of buffaloes and stags, recurs everywhere in the
+prairie, and the great dogs of the fort frequently seek for such
+animal remains. Between the hills, there are, sometimes, in the
+ravines, little thickets of oak, ash, negundo maple, elm, bird-cherry,
+and some others, in which many kinds of birds, particularly the
+starling, blackbird, &c., build their nests. The king-bird and the red
+thrush are likewise found. Of mammalia, besides those in the river,
+namely, the beaver, the otter, and the muskrat, there are, about Fort
+Union, in the prairie, great numbers of the pretty little squirrel,
+the skin of which is marked with long stripes, and regular spots
+between them (_Spermophilus Hoodii_, Sab.), which have been
+represented by Richardson and Cuvier. The Anglo-Americans of these
+parts call it the ground squirrel; and the Canadians, _l'ecureuil
+Suisse_. From its figure and agility, it is a genuine squirrel, and,
+therefore, rather different from the true marmot arctomys. The
+burrows, in which these animals live, are often carried to a great
+extent underground. The entrance is not much larger than a mouse hole,
+and has no mound of earth thrown up, like those of the prairie dogs.
+Besides these, there are several kinds of mice, particularly _Mus
+leucopus_. The flat hills of the goffer are likewise seen; this is a
+kind of large sand rat, living underground, of which I did not obtain
+a specimen.
+
+Not far above and below the fort there were woods on the banks of the
+Missouri, consisting of poplars, willows, ash, elm, negundo maple,
+&c., with a thick underwood of hazel, roses, which were now in flower,
+and dog-berry, rendered almost impassable by blackberry bushes and the
+burdock (_Xanthium strumarium_), the thorny fruit of which stuck to
+the clothes. In these thickets, where we collected many plants, the
+mosquitos were extremely troublesome. In such places we frequently
+heard the deep base note of the frogs; and in those places which were
+not damp, there were patches of two kinds of solidago; likewise _Gaura
+coccinea_ (Pursh.), and _Cristaria coccinea_, two extremely beautiful
+plants; and, on the banks of the river, the white-flowering _Bartonia
+ornata_ (Pursh.), and the _Helianthus petiolaris_ (Nutt.), which were
+everywhere in flower, &c. &c.
+
+[pg. 193] In the forest, a pretty small mouse was frequent, as well as
+the large wood rat, already mentioned. Of birds, there are some
+species of woodpeckers, the Carolina pigeon, numerous blackbirds
+(_Quiscalus ferrugineus_), thrushes, several smaller birds, the
+beautiful bluefinch, first described by Say, the American fly-catcher,
+and several others. The whip-poor-will is not found so high up the
+Missouri. The river does not abound in fish; it produces, however, two
+species of cat-fish, and soft shell turtles, but which are not often
+caught.
+
+The climate about Fort Union is very changeable. We had often 76 deg.
+Fahrenheit, and storms of thunder and lightning alternating with heavy
+rains. Other days in the month of June were cold, the thermometer
+falling to 56 deg. Winds prevail here the greater part of the year, and
+therefore the temperature is usually dry. The weather, while we were
+there, was uncommonly rainy. Spring is generally the wettest season;
+the summer is dry; autumn the finest time of the year; the winter is
+severe, and often of long continuance. The snow is often three, four,
+or six feet deep in many places, and then dog sledges are used, and
+the Indians wear snow shoes. The winter of 1831-1832 had been
+remarkably mild in these parts. The Missouri had scarcely been frozen
+for three days together; but the spring, however, set in very late. On
+the 30th of May, 1832, the forests were still without verdure; and
+there was, in that month, such dreadful weather, that an Indian was
+frozen to death in the prairie: a snow storm overtook him and a girl,
+who escaped with one of her feet frozen. In general, however, the
+climate is said to be very healthy. There are no endemic disorders,
+and the fine water of the Missouri, which, notwithstanding the sand
+mixed with it, is light and cold, does not a little contribute to make
+the inhabitants attain an advanced age. There are no physicians here,
+and the people affirm they have no need of them. Persons, whom we
+questioned on the subject, said, "We don't want doctors; we have no
+diseases." In the preceding spring, however, there had been more
+sickness than usual on the Missouri, and at the time of our visit,
+the approach of the cholera was feared. Colds are, probably, the most
+frequent complaints, the changes in the temperature being sudden, the
+dwellings slight and ill built, and the people exposing themselves
+without any precaution.
+
+Fort Union is built in the territory of the Assiniboins, of whom a
+certain number generally live there. At this time they had left,
+because the herds of buffaloes were gone to a distant part of the
+country. The Assiniboins are real Dacotas, or Sioux, and form a branch
+which separated from the rest a considerable time ago, in consequence
+of a quarrel among them. They still call themselves by that name,
+though they seem generally to pronounce it Nacota. They parted from
+the rest of the tribe, after a battle which they had with each other
+on Devil's Lake, and removed further to the north. The tribe is said
+to consist of 28,000 souls, of whom 7,000 are warriors. They live in
+3,000 tents; the territory which they claim as theirs, is between the
+Missouri and the Saskatschawan, bounded by lake Winipick on the north,
+extending, on the east, to Assiniboin River, and, on the west, to Milk
+River. The English and Americans sometimes [pg. 194] call them Stone
+Indians, which, however, properly speaking, is the name of only one
+branch.
+
+The Assiniboins are divided into the following branches or bands:
+
+1. Itscheabine (_les gens des filles_).
+
+2. Jatonabine (_les gens des roches_). The Stone Indians of the
+English. Captain Franklin, in his first journey to the Frozen Ocean,
+speaks of these Indians, and observes that they are little to be
+depended upon.[363] He says that they call themselves Eascab, a name
+with which, however, I have not met.
+
+3. Otopachgnato (_les gens du large_).
+
+4. Otaopabine (_les gens des canots_).
+
+5. Tschantoga (_les gens des bois_). They live near the Fort des
+Prairies, not far from Saskatschawan River.[364]
+
+6. Watopachnato (_les gens de l'age_).
+
+7. Tanintauei (_les gens des osayes_).[365]
+
+8. Chabin (_les gens des montagnes_).[366]
+
+In their personal appearance the Assiniboins differ little from the
+true Sioux; those whom we saw were, perhaps, on the whole, not so tall
+and slender as the Sioux. Their faces are broad, with high cheeks, and
+broad maxillary bones. They frequently do not wear their hair so long
+as the Sioux; many of them have it scarcely hanging down to the
+shoulders; some, however, let it grow to a great length, and braid it
+in two or three tails; nay, some let it hang like a lion's mane over
+their faces and about their heads. Several wore round white leather
+caps, others feathers in their hair, or a narrow strip of skin
+fastened over the crown. A remarkable head-dress is that with two
+horns, of which I shall have to speak in the sequel. They paint their
+faces red, or reddish-brown, and, when they have killed an enemy,
+quite black: the hair in front is often daubed with clay; the upper
+part of the body is seldom naked in winter time, when they wear
+leather shirts, with a large round rosette on the breast, which is
+embroidered with dyed porcupine quills, of the most vivid colours; and
+they have often another exactly similar ornament on their back. The
+sleeves of these leather shirts are adorned with tufts of their
+enemies' hair. The outer seam of the leggins, as among all the other
+tribes, has an embroidered stripe of coloured porcupine quills, and
+trimmed in the same manner with human or dyed horsehair. In the summer
+time the upper part of the body is often naked, and the feet bare, but
+they are never without the large buffalo robe, which is often
+curiously painted. Their necklaces and other ornaments are similar to
+those of the other nations which have already been described. They,
+however, very frequently wear the collar of the bears' claws, but not
+the long strings of beads [pg. 195] and dentalium shells, which are used
+by the Manitaries. Most of the Assiniboins have guns,[367] the stocks
+of which they ornament with bright yellow nails, and with small pieces
+of red cloth on the ferrels for the ramrod. Like all the Indians, they
+carry, besides, a separate ramrod in their hand, a large powder-horn,
+which they obtain from the Fur Company, and a leather pouch for the
+balls, which is made by themselves, and often neatly ornamented, or
+hung with rattling pieces of lead, and trimmed with coloured cloth.
+All have bows and arrows; many have these only, and no gun. The case
+for the bow and the quiver are of the skin of some animal, often of
+the otter, fastened to each other; and to the latter the tail of the
+animal, at full length, is appended. The bow is partly covered with
+elk horn, has a very strong string of twisted sinews of animals, and
+is wound round in different places with the same, to strengthen it.
+The bow is often adorned with coloured cloth, porcupine quills, and
+white strips of ermine, but, on the whole, this weapon does not differ
+from that of the Sioux. Most of them carry clubs in their hands, of
+various shapes, and the fan of eagles' or swans' wings is
+indispensable to an elegant dandy.
+
+The Assiniboins being hunters, live in movable leather tents, with
+which they roam about, and never cultivate the ground. Their chief
+subsistence they derive from the herds of buffaloes, which they follow
+in the summer, generally from the rivers, to a distance in the
+prairie; in the winter, to the woods on the banks of the rivers,
+because these herds, at that time, seek for shelter and food among the
+thickets. They are particularly dexterous in making what are called
+buffalo parks, when a tract is surrounded with scarecrows, made of
+stones, branches of trees, &c., and the terrified animals are driven
+into a narrow gorge, in which the hunters lie concealed, as
+represented and described by Franklin, in his first journey to the
+Frozen Ocean.[368] There was such a park ten miles from Fort Union,
+where I was told there were great numbers of the bones of those
+animals. On such occasions the Indians sometimes kill 700 or 800
+buffaloes. Of the dried and powdered flesh, mixed with tallow, the
+women prepare the well-known pemmican, which is an important article
+of food for these people in their wanderings. These Indians frequently
+suffer hunger, when the chase or other circumstances are unfavourable;
+this is particularly the case of the northern nations, the Crees, the
+Assiniboins, the Chippeways, and others, as may be seen in
+Tanner,[369] Captain Franklin, and other writers, when they consider
+dead dogs as a delicacy. In the north, entire families perish from
+hunger. They eat every kind of animals, except serpents; horses and
+dogs are very frequently killed for food, which is the reason why they
+keep so many, particularly of the latter.
+
+In comparison with the other nations, the Assiniboins have not many
+horses; their bridles and saddles are like those of the Manitaries.
+The rope of buffalo hair, which is fastened to the [pg. 196] lower jaw
+as a bridle, is always very long, and trails on the grass when the
+animal is not tied up. Many have large parchment stirrups in the shape
+of shoes, and all carry a short whip in their hand, generally made of
+the end of an elk's horn, and gaily ornamented. Their dogs are of
+great help to the women in their heavy work; and they are loaded with
+the baggage in the same manner as among the Manitaries.
+
+In general, the Assiniboins have the customs as well as the
+superstitious notions of the Sioux; for an account of which, Major
+Long's "Expedition to St. Peter's River," may be consulted. They keep
+on good terms with the Fur Company, for their own interest; they are,
+however, horse-stealers, and not to be trusted; and when one meets
+them alone in the prairie, there is great danger of being robbed.
+Smoking is a favourite enjoyment with them, but, as they live at a
+distance from the red pipe clay, the bowls of their pipes are
+generally made of a blackish stone, or black clay, and are different
+in shape from those of the Dacotas.[370] The pipe tube is ornamented
+like those of the other tribes.[371] They generally smoke the herb
+kinikenick, which we have before mentioned, or the leaves of the
+bear-berry (_Arbutus uva ursi_), mixed with genuine tobacco. To clean
+their pipes they make use of a painted stick, bound round with quills,
+dyed of various colours, and with a neat tassel at the end of it,[372]
+which is generally stuck in their hair.
+
+  [Illustration: Assiniboin pipes]
+
+  [Illustration: Pipe for warlike expeditions]
+
+Many games are in use among these Indians; one of these is a round
+game, in which one holds in his hand some small stones, of which the
+others must guess the number, or pay a forfeit. This game is known
+also to the Blackfeet. Another is that in which they play with four
+small bones and four yellow nails, to which one of each sort is added;
+they are laid upon a flat [pg. 197] wooden plate, which is struck, so
+that they fly up and fall back into the plate, and you gain, or lose,
+according as they lie together on one side, and the stake is often
+very high.
+
+Among the amusements and festivities are their eating feasts, when the
+guests must eat everything set before them, if they will not give
+offence. If one of the guests is not able to eat any more, he gives
+his neighbour a small wooden stick, and the plate with food, the
+meaning of which is that he will make him a present of a horse, on the
+next day, if he will undertake to empty the plate; and the young men
+do this in order to gain reputation. The Assiniboins are brave in
+battle, and often very daring. They frequently steal into the villages
+of the Mandans and Manitaries, shoot the inhabitants in or near their
+huts, or steal their horses.
+
+They believe in a creator, or lord of life (Unkan-Tange), and also in
+an evil spirit (Unkan-Schidja), who torments people with various
+disorders, against which their sorcerers or physicians (medicine men)
+use the drum and the rattle to expel the evil spirit. Like the Crees
+and several other tribes, they believe that thunder is produced by an
+enormous bird, which some of them pretend to have seen. Some ascribe
+lightning to the Great Spirit, and believe that he is angry when the
+storm is violent. They believe that the dead go to a country in the
+south, where the good and brave find women and buffaloes, while the
+wicked or cowardly are confined to an island, where they are destitute
+of all the pleasures of life. Those who, during their lives, have
+conducted themselves bravely, are not to be deposited in trees when
+they die, but their corpses are to be laid on the ground, it being
+taken for granted that, in case of need, they will help themselves. Of
+course they are generally devoured by the wolves, to secure them from
+which, however, they are covered with wood and stones. Other corpses
+are usually placed on trees, as among the Sioux, and sometimes on
+scaffolds. They are tied up in buffalo hides, and three or four are
+sometimes laid in one tree.
+
+The language of the Assiniboins is, on the whole, the same as that of
+the Sioux, altered by their long separation, and the influence of time
+and circumstances. Like them, they have many gutturals and nasal
+tones; in general, however, it is an harmonious language, which a
+German pronounces without difficulty.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[354] For a view of this fort see Plate 61, in the accompanying atlas,
+our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[355] This is the distance by water; on horseback, the journey has
+been accomplished in ten days.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[356] On this subject see "Astoria," and "Adventures of Captain
+Bonneville," also "Ross Cox's Adventures on the Columbia River," p.
+198. The dress of the white agents of the Company is made of cloth,
+like our own; but the hunters often wear a leather dress, ornamented,
+for the most part, in the Indian fashion, while the common _engages_
+wear white blanket coats, such as I have described when speaking of
+the inhabitants of Indiana, on the Wabash. They are mostly shod in
+Indian mocassins, a dozen pair of which may be purchased from the
+Indian women for one dollar, when they are not ornamented. The
+hunters, here, maintain that these Indian shoes are better adapted to
+the prairies than our European ones, as they do not become so
+slippery. They are frequently soled with elk hide, or parchment. The
+worst is, that they are easily penetrated by the prickles of the
+cactus, and on this account we greatly preferred our European shoes.
+At Fort Union, artisans of almost every description are to be met
+with, such as smiths, masons, carpenters, joiners, coopers, tailors,
+shoemakers, hatters, &c.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[357] Some idea may be formed of the enormous quantity of beavers
+killed every year, from the circumstance that the Hudson's Bay Company
+sends to London alone 50,000, this animal being found as far as the
+coasts of the Frozen Ocean.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[358] At Rock River, which falls into the Mississippi, the Indians
+caught, in 1825, about 130,000 musk-rats; in the following year, about
+half the number; and, in about two years after, these animals were
+scarcely to be met with. Previous to this time, an Indian caught, in
+thirty days, as many as 1,600 of them. In South America, there is only
+one species of wild animal, known to me, whose skins are collected in
+large quantities. According to D'Orbigny, in the first six months of
+1828, above 150,000 dozen Quiyaa were sold, in Corrientes, at from
+fifteen to eighteen francs the dozen. The Indians hunt this animal,
+which lives in the morasses, with dogs, and shoot it with
+arrows.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[359] See Plate 62, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[360] See Plate 15, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
+
+[361] Unfortunately, all these interesting specimens were destroyed in
+the fire on board the steam-boat.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ Reference is made to the burning of the
+"Assiniboine." See note 179, _ante_, p. 240.
+
+[362] William Keating, _Narrative of an Expedition to the source of
+St. Peter's River, performed in the year 1823, under command of
+Stephen H. Long_ (Philadelphia, 1824).--ED.
+
+[363] Sir John Franklin, _Narrative of a Journey to the shores of the
+Polar Sea in the years 1819, 1820, 1821, and 1822_ (London, 1823), p.
+104.--ED.
+
+[364] Fort des Prairies was at different periods applied to various
+Hudson's Bay Company posts. Apparently this was the fort on the site
+of Edmonton, for which see Franchere's _Narrative_, in our volume vi,
+p. 364, note 177.--ED.
+
+[365] The word _osayes_ is one of the many Canadian terms which are
+mixed with the French of that country, and means bones.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[366] Consult on the bands or gentes of the Assiniboin, J. O. Dorsey,
+"Siouan Sociology," in Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, 1893-94, pp. 222,
+223.--ED.
+
+[367] The common Mackinaw guns, which the Fur Company obtain from
+England at the rate of eight dollars a-piece, and which are sold to
+the Indians for the value of thirty dollars.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[368] _Op. cit._ in note 361, [_ante_] p. 112.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+[369] The reference is to Edwin James (editor) _Narrative of Captivity
+and Adventures during thirty years' residence among the Indians in the
+interior of North America by John Tanner_ (New York, 1830). John
+Tanner, a boy of nine years, was captured in Kentucky about 1790. He
+passed the larger part of his life in the northern woods. In 1818 he
+sought his relatives in Kentucky while his brother Edward was
+searching for him near Mackinac. For some years he was employed as
+interpreter at Sault Ste. Marie, but having become an Indian in habit
+he shot (1836) and killed James L. Schoolcraft and fled to the
+wilderness where he died about 1847 (but see _Minnesota Historical
+Collections_, vi, p. 114). His _Narrative_ was much quoted by
+contemporary writers.--ED.
+
+[370] See p. 361, for illustration of Assiniboin pipes.--ED.
+
+[371] The Indians on the Upper Missouri have another kind of tobacco
+pipe, the bowl of which is in the same line as the tube, and which
+they use only on their warlike expeditions. As the aperture of the
+pipe is more inclined downwards than usual, the fire can never be
+seen, so as to betray the smoker, who lies on the ground, and holds
+the pipe on one side.--MAXIMILIAN.
+
+_Comment by Ed._ See p. 361, for illustration of pipe for warlike
+expeditions.
+
+[372] See Plate 81, figure 11, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
+xxv.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+
+     Important
+     Historical Publications
+     OF
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+
+     Full descriptive circulars will be mailed
+     on application
+
+
+
+     AUDUBON'S WESTERN
+     JOURNAL: 1849-1850
+
+
+     Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to
+     Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico
+     and Arizona to the gold-fields of California
+
+     BY
+     _JOHN W. AUDUBON_
+
+
+     With biographical memoir by his daughter
+     MARIA R. AUDUBON
+
+     _Edited by_
+     FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER
+     Professor of American History, University of Kansas
+
+     _With folded map, portrait, and original drawings_
+
+John W. Audubon, son of the famous ornithologist, was a member of
+Colonel Webb's California Expedition which started from New York City
+for the gold-fields in February, 1849. The Journal consists of careful
+notes which Audubon made en route. It was written with a view to
+publication, accompanied by a series of sketches made at intervals
+during the journey; but owing to Audubon's pre-occupation with other
+affairs, the plan of publication was never realized.
+
+The Journal is, therefore, here published for the first time, and is
+illustrated by the author's original sketches, carefully reproduced.
+It gives a vivid first-hand picture of the difficulties of an overland
+journey to California, and of the excitements, dangers, and privations
+of life in the gold-fields. An additional interest attaches to this
+account from the fact that Colonel Webb deserted his party, which
+consisted of nearly a hundred men, when the expedition reached Roma,
+and the command then by unanimous choice of the party devolved upon
+Audubon. This situation, as modestly related by the author, displays
+his sympathetic nature, as well as his keenness and ability as a
+leader.
+
+Besides being a fascinating story of adventure, the Journal throws
+much light on the interesting years immediately following the
+discovery of gold in California. John W. Audubon was (with his brother
+Victor G. Audubon) the assistant of his father, and executed much of
+the artistic work on the famous "Quadrupeds of North America." His
+pictures of the spreading of the gold craze in the East, the journey
+through Mexico, and the social conditions after reaching California,
+show him to be a keen and faithful observer.
+
+The Editor, Professor F. H. Hodder, of the University of Kansas, has
+supplied complete annotation explaining matters of topography, natural
+science, and historical and personal allusions. Professor Hodder in
+his editorial work has drawn liberally upon his special knowledge of
+the history and geography of the West and Southwest. A biographical
+memoir has been written by Miss Maria R. Audubon. Being the daughter
+of the author, she has availed herself of a large amount of auxiliary
+material not accessible to any other biographer.
+
+Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper, and
+illustrated with folded map, portrait, and plates, in one volume, 8vo,
+about 225 pages, cloth, uncut.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+     PERSONAL NARRATIVE
+     OF
+     _Travels in Virginia, Maryland,
+     Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana,
+     Kentucky; and of a Residence in
+     the Illinois Territory: 1817-1818_
+
+     BY
+     ELIAS PYM FORDHAM
+
+     With facsimiles of the author's sketches and plans
+
+     Edited with Notes, Introduction, Index, etc., by
+     FREDERIC AUSTIN OGG, A.M.
+     _Author of "The Opening of the Mississippi"_
+
+
+=AN UNPUBLISHED MS.=
+
+This hitherto unpublished MS., which is a real literary and historical
+find, was written in 1817-18 by a young Englishman of excellent
+education who assisted Morris Birkbeck in establishing his Illinois
+settlement. The author writes anonymously, but by a careful study of
+various allusions in the _Narrative_ and from information furnished by
+the family in possession of the MS., has been identified as Elias Pym
+Fordham. Landing at Baltimore, he reached the West by way of
+Philadelphia, Pittsburg, and the Ohio River to Cincinnati, describing
+the people and the country as he went along.
+
+
+=THE MIDDLE WEST IN 1817=
+
+Fordham was an especially well-qualified observer of the Middle West
+because of the numerous journeys he undertook, on land-hunting trips
+for new emigrants, in the service of Mr. Birkbeck. These journeys led
+him into Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky; and he never omits the
+opportunity to make frank and pointed comment on society, manners, and
+morals, as well as careful observations of the face of the country and
+of industrial conditions. The style is quite unaffected and has much
+natural charm and sprightliness; and the fact that he wrote
+anonymously made him much more free in his comments on contemporary
+society than would otherwise have been possible.
+
+
+=LOCAL AND PIONEER HISTORY=
+
+These journeys also gave him unexampled opportunities for contact with
+the pioneers of Middle West, and his journal is consequently rich in
+_personalia_ of early settlers, remarks on contemporary history and
+politics, state of trade, agriculture, prices, and information on
+local history not obtainable elsewhere. He also visited the larger
+cities and gives very interesting accounts of Pittsburg and
+Cincinnati, accompanied by original sketches and plans. In Kentucky he
+had the opportunity to study slavery; and although at first prejudiced
+against this institution he finally reached the conclusion that the
+slave states offered better chances of successful settlement than the
+free states.
+
+
+=VALUE FOR READERS AND STUDENTS=
+
+The publication of Fordham's _Narrative _with introduction, extensive
+annotations, and index by professor Frederic A. Ogg, one of the best
+authorities on the history of the Mississippi Valley, will make
+accessible to historical students much new and important material,
+besides giving the general reader a book of vital and absorbing
+interest.
+
+Printed direct from type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper, and
+illustrated with original sketches and plans, in one volume, 8vo,
+about 180 pages, cloth, uncut.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     The Arthur H. Clark Company
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+"_AN AUTHORITY OF THE HIGHEST IMPORTANCE_"--Winsor
+
+
+     THE
+     PRESENT STATE
+     OF THE
+     EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS
+     ON THE
+     MISSISIPPI;
+
+     WITH
+     A GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THAT RIVER.
+
+     ILLUSTRATED BY
+     PLANS AND DRAUGHTS.
+
+     By Captain PHILIP PITTMAN.
+
+     LONDON.
+     Printed for J. NOURSE, Bookseller to His MAJESTY.
+     MDCCLXX
+
+     _Edited with Introduction, Notes, and Index, by_
+     FRANK HEYWOOD HODDER
+     PROFESSOR OF AMERICAN HISTORY, UNIVERSITY OF KANSAS
+
+
+This exceedingly rare work was issued in London, in 1770, and has been
+so much in demand by historical students and collectors of Americana
+that even imperfect copies of the original are now almost impossible
+to obtain at any price. Our text is from a perfect copy of the
+original with all the folding maps and plans carefully reproduced.
+
+*Only two copies have been offered for sale during the past five
+years; one copy sold at $95.00, and the other is now offered by a
+reliable firm of booksellers at $105.00.
+
+
+
+
+
+     PITTMAN'S MISSISSIPPI SETTLEMENTS
+
+
+_A valuable source work_
+
+Pittman's _Mississippi Settlements_ contains much valuable original
+material for the study of the French and Spanish Settlements of old
+Louisiana, West Florida, and the Illinois country. The author, Captain
+Philip Pittman, was a British military engineer, and gives an accurate
+general view of the Mississippi Settlements just after the English
+came into possession of the eastern half of the valley by the Peace of
+1763. His account, written from personal observation, is rich in
+allusions to the political, social, and military readjustments
+resulting from this change of possession. "A comprehensive account of
+the Illinois country and its inhabitants, with sketches in detail of
+the several French posts and villages situated therein, as personally
+viewed by him in 1766-67.... It contains, in a compact form, much
+useful and reliable information (nowhere else to be found) concerning
+the Mississippi Valley and its people at that transition
+period."--WALLACE: _Illinois and Louisiana under French Rule_.
+
+
+_The earliest English account_
+
+Dr. William F. Poole in Winsor's _Narrative and Critical History of
+America_ says: "It is the earliest English account of those
+settlements, and, as an authority in early western history, is of the
+highest importance. He [Pittman] was a military engineer, and for five
+years was employed in surveying the Mississippi River and exploring
+the western country. The excellent plans which accompany the work,
+artistically engraved on copper, add greatly to its value."
+
+
+_Annotation by Professor Hodder_
+
+An introduction, notes, and index have been supplied by Professor
+Frank Heywood Hodder, who has made a special study of American
+historical geography. The value of the reprint is thus enhanced by
+annotation embodying the results of the latest researches in this
+field of American history.
+
+
+The edition is limited to 500 copies, each numbered. It is handsomely
+printed in large Caslon type on Dickinson's deckle-edged paper. With
+folding maps and plans. Large 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt top.
+
+Price $3.00 net.
+
+     _THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY_
+     _PUBLISHERS_      CLEVELAND, OHIO
+
+
+
+
+
+"We cannot thoroughly understand our own history, local or
+National, without some knowledge of these routes of trade and
+war."--_The Outlook._
+
+
+     The Historic Highways of America
+
+     by ARCHER BUTLER HULBERT
+
+A series of monographs on the History of America as portrayed in the
+evolution of its highways of War, Commerce, and Social Expansion.
+
+Comprising the following volumes:
+
+     I--Paths of the Mound-Building Indians and Great Game Animals.
+    II--Indian Thoroughfares.
+   III--Washington's Road: The First Chapter of the Old French War.
+    IV--Braddock's Road.
+     V--The Old Glade (Forbes's) Road.
+    VI--Boone's Wilderness Road.
+   VII--Portage Paths: The Keys of the Continent.
+  VIII--Military Roads of the Mississippi Basin.
+    IX--Waterways of Westward Expansion.
+     X--The Cumberland Road.
+    XI, XII--Pioneer Roads of America, two volumes.
+  XIII, XIV--The Great American Canals, two volumes.
+    XV--The Future of Road-Making in America.
+   XVI--Index.
+
+Sixteen volumes, crown 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt tops. A LIMITED EDITION
+only printed direct from type, and the type distributed. Each volume
+handsomely printed in large type on Dickinson's hand-made paper, and
+illustrated with maps, plates, and facsimiles.
+
+Published a volume each two months, beginning September, 1902.
+
+PRICE, volumes 1 and 2, $2.00 net each; volumes 3 to 16, $2.50 net
+each.
+
+FIFTY SETS PRINTED ON LARGE PAPER, each numbered and _signed by the
+author_. Bound in cloth, with paper label, uncut, gilt tops. Price,
+$5.00 net per volume.
+
+"The fruit not only of the study of original historical sources in
+documents found here and in England, but of patient and enthusiastic
+topographical studies, in the course of which every foot of these old
+historic highways has been traced and traversed."--_The Living Age._
+
+"The volumes already issued show Mr. Hulbert to be an earnest and
+enthusiastic student, and a reliable guide."--_Out West._
+
+"A look through these volumes shows most conclusively that a new
+source of history is being developed--a source which deals with the
+operation of the most effective causes influencing human
+affairs."--_Iowa Journal of History and Politics._
+
+"The successive volumes in the series may certainly be awaited with
+great interest, for they promise to deal with the most romantic
+phases of the awakening of America at the dawn of occidental
+civilization."--_Boston Transcript._
+
+ "The publishers have done their part toward putting forth with
+proper dignity this important work. It is issued on handsome paper and
+is illustrated with many maps, diagrams, and old prints."--_Chicago
+Evening Post._
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF NORTH
+AMERICA, PART I, (BEING CHAPTERS I-XV OF THE LONDON EDITION, 1843)***
+
+
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