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diff --git a/38501.txt b/38501.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c323364 --- /dev/null +++ b/38501.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16568 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de +Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II + Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels From + Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, + England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not + Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but + the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several + Courts. + +Author: Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz + +Release Date: January 5, 2012 [EBook #38501] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated +faithfully except as shown in the TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS at the end of +the text. This etext presumes a mono-spaced font on the user's device, +such as Courier New. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. But the +publisher also wanted to emphasize words in sentences already italicized, +so he printed them in the regular font which is indicated here with: _The +pirates then went to +Hispaniola+._ Footnotes are located near the end of +the work. + +[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode] + + + + + THE + + MEMOIRS + + OF + + _CHARLES-LEWIS_, + + Baron de POLLNITZ. + + BEING + + The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro' + + _GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_, + _ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_, + _FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c. + + In LETTERS to his FRIEND. + + Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS; + + BUT + + The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS. + + In TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. II. + + The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS. + + _LONDON_: + + Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_. + M.DCC.XXXIX. + + + + + TABLE OF CONTENTS + + + LETTER XXVIII 1 + + LETTER XXIX 24 + + LETTER XXX 46 + + LETTER XXXI 55 + + LETTER XXXII 77 + + LETTER XXXIII 95 + + LETTER XXXIV 113 + + LETTER XXXV 129 + + LETTER XXXVI 151 + + LETTER XXXVII 168 + + LETTER XXXVIII 179 + + LETTER XXXIX 189 + + LETTER XL 203 + + LETTER XLI 228 + + LETTER XLII 261 + + LETTER XLIII 277 + + LETTER XLIV 290 + + LETTER XLV 310 + + LETTER XLVI 325 + + LETTER XLVII 337 + + LETTER XLVIII 348 + + LETTER XLIX 357 + + LETTER L 364 + + LETTER LI 384 + + LETTER LII 394 + + LETTER LIII 430 + + LETTER LIV 449 + + INDEX 473 + + FOOTNOTES + +[Illustration] + + + + + MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ. + + In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._ + + + + + LETTER XXVIII. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, July 30, 1730._ + +Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which +has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of +_Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it, +because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am. +I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most +beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the +Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I +shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much +rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well +described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a +Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over. + +ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now +That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any +Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must +be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal +to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first +Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck +with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled +the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right +and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a +Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you. +When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a +triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_, +through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point, +in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches, +the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the +middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental +Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised +by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's +a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be +worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village. +The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church +consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on +the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The +Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched +Hovels. + +From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which +lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in +the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_, +because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run +Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day +by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine +Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_, +_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St. +_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good +substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar, +which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the +Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given +place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called, +because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In +it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by +the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V. + +The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is +called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs +leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so +contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for +the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the +Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME. + +The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in +it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one +would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that +less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at +both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_, +which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that +Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In +the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed +in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious +Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_, +belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of +Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a +rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say, +that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if +true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste +perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to +Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old +_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I +dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build. + +The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the +Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies, +sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the +Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent +every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of +Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in +Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press +forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not +how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man +for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had +rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have +the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I +extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and +there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the +Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abbes and Prelates; but they are +not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of +the Ladies Coaches. + +Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets +which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the +_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or +to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by +Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous +of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he: +This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say +it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an +Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and +their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their +Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection. + +The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square +_Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the +Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis +adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention +of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order +of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by +Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in +this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white +Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in +it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, +which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_. +At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble, +sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four +principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and +_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by +different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes +suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an +oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin +cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_. + +Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_, +begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_. +'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is +an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent +Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace, +belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal +_Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in +Painting. + +The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its +round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has +been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an +Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he +afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope +_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to +the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with +the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the +Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental +Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of +the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by +an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome. +The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the +Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was +heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of +that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Brass partly on the High Altar +of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be +cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who +did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_, +who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that +the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it +is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_ +was always spared. + +St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in +Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that +though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be +worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which +lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it. +Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero +in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is +round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars, +which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support +an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers +holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which +continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the +lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which +runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the +Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who +may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments +with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after +'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s +Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior +_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense +a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V. +commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep +Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the +Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders +of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a +Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was +almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so +confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the +Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the +Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope +promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no +body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd, +and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk, +including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V. +caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass +at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person +that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_, +and as many _Ave Maries_. + +When you have passed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some +Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is +before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the +_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is +of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which +form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all +over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of +_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has +represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the +Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the +Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by +_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not +near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the +Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and +shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee. + +I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike +me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and +Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I +was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The +High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a +Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all +Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense +Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by +Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would +naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar +none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by +his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly +adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St. +_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case +of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and +surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps, +which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is +hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour. + +At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair, +a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four +Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and +St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them, +raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of +which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable +Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand, +has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of +such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their +Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in +whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are +not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others +altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess +_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes +granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of +that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high +Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be +honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the +Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated +her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion. +_Christina_'s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with +Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is +perfectly well executed. + +Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular +Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than +the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated, +than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing +that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists +have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One +of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta. +_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely +coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One +would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little +Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is +extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it +is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They +design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which +grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in +their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried +on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a +Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it. + +The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the +Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its +Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this +Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that +leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to +the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St. +_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross, +by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance. + +All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that +the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious +Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention, +are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary +Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_, +our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the +_Jesuits_. + +As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition, +that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having +pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for +what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God +signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at +the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the +more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_. +But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy +Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next +Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and +by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of +Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow. +The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called +the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_, +because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at +last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those +Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin. + +I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene. +I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came, +referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of +ROME to another Opportunity. + +The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and +warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they +have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to +chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_ +was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon +account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the +Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of +their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People, +that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he +had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to +Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to +the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the +Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did, +at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time, +it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his +Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill +Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain +Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested +by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at +_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this +as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as +the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold +on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely +for having done an Act of Justice. + +Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for +Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_, +pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his +Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed, +and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de +Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he +was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great +Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own +Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_ +Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it +will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy, +they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_, +who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear +of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and +to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him +directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to +the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were +accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to +consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his +Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_ +having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon +the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the +Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his +Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_ +hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared +openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The +Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more +apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal +_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some +other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight +to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him; +and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and +conjured him for God's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement. +'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you +end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What +have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course +of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy +the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in +the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his +Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be +obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and +consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal +Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good +Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the +best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election +of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any +longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man +whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at +length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope, +they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated +Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be +Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the +Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the +_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them. +Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were +bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the +Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the +Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_; +yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are +even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that +they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore, +that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a +Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day +of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal +_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the +Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was +exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy +Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove. + +Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_, +in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory +of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his +Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the +_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that +he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble, +good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that +he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope. + +In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII. +received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are +here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a +while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and +placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration +of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling +down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one +after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day +and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for +afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over, +the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great +Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and +then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the +great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel +of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair, +he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short +Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar, +where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another +Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; +and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off +his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment, +where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the +_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there +were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a +Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_. + +The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in +giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the +Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_ +Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a +long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his +Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME +about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling +him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the +Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of +the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive +they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they +had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,' +said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no +Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my +Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then +turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal, +whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew, +_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My +Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much +rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name +may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry +it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not +want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII. +ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_. + +The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I +can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops +who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested +in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in +Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and +then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico, +where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to +kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at +the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer +kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to +the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer +prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the +Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches, +on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_, +they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of +white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this, +they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope, +with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy +Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this +Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave +his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing +a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from +his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried +before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on +his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While +he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before +him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him, +_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth +away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the +Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he +lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks. +When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great +deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three +of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented +him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with +Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was +erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat +upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the +Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_, +with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on +the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this, +were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners. +I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here +these two Months. + +From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops, +pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's +Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and +Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a +Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration, +returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the +consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took +one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according +to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest +had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the +Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded +by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession +to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the +great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be +seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his +Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and +Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the +People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that +led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were +fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of +their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again +placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he +dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy +Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses +were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of +St. _Angelo_. + +Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have +seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the +Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the +Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb +that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is +covered with precious Stones, tho' I assure you, that there cannot be a +greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many +Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony +august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is +hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the +very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon +this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_ +could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really +affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he +has deviated from the Truth. + +The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the +Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown, +commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of +_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same +Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the +Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand. + +Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and +took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father +marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond +of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had +seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode +in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback, +his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The +Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy, +as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw +_Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed +nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXIX. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._ + +In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I +traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no +Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know, +that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are +here styled Palaces. + +I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and +_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first, +for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a +Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most +healthful Air in the City. + +The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high, +and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of +its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired +in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been +employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot +help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of +the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to +have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has +done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History +of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed. + +_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful +Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment, +by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons +of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake +them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he +did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick +of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among +the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him +out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power +extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from +thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune +to be in such Company, there he must stay. + +The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in +the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_, +and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the +best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the +_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The +former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of +_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_ +submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased +by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this +Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from +the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the +Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty +broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance +is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that +are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted, +both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists +of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the +Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers +Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of +sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short, +ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their +Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope +_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church. + +The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes +his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought +it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_, +which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And +as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop, +if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit +the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the +Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built, +with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his +Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain +Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he +used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this +Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen. + +I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here, +touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the +most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St. +_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_, +he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a +Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the +_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at +_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the +Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When +he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so +that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal, +the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave +at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the +Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed +at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long +enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They +were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should +give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State; +however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such +Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what +they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal +_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be +_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred +College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had +for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the +Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the +State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_. + +This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had +done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand +Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he +converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body +groan'd; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so +byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even +the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to +the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he +would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_ +confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of +every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my +Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken +me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too +strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made +his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his +Good-nature, that he wept too. + +I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which +however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals +represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of +innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the +World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he +would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged +was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_ +easily brought himself off. He said, 'twas all Calumny; swore with Tears +in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in +Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his +Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope +should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing +an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty +_Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: 'Your Holiness +being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give +Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, 'tis thought +proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o'Clock, the +Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an +Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to +the Cardinal's Apartment, and peep thro' the Key-hole.' The Pope did not +fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected, +the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at +Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he +kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty +Cardinal in this Posture, cry'd out to somebody that was with him, _Do but +see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light! +Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the +Cardinal's Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have +accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to +think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the +Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the +Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a +Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of +Hypocrites. But, to the Pope's Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_ +was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him +being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they +were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal +_Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the +Hands of the_ Turks. + +This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave +away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold +all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of +Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been +told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from +the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them +offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred. +Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the +golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, 'I am +sorry I can't let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but +here's one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not +wrong them.' Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the +Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope. +They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at +their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit. + +At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having +complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great +many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor? +Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State +Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he +said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have +any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put +them back, tho' perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long +expired. + +This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst +of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in +the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry, +would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him +rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as 'twas possible for any mean +Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day +in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any +Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the +_Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher'd, and without any +Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he +happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his +Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So +much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have +been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now +return to the _Vatican_. + +This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of +ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent +_Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought +proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but, +Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are +the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in +it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are +also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V. +deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that +they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the +Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St. +_Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard, +to denote that God had stay'd the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of +St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME, +carried in Procession to St. _Peter_'s Church two Images of the Virgin, +the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_, +the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church +of St. _Mary in Compitello_. + +From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace +of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other. +_Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes +have carried it on. 'Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none +of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed +is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_ +V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all +contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here +are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This +vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle, +encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross +Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the +Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main +Building there's a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant +_Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an +admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they +are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of +this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being +rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold +Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the +reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other +in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope's Apartments there's one of the +most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far +into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in +_Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here +rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much +admir'd by the _Italians_, who never travell'd out of their Country, where +Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_, +who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this +Country with very great Indifference. + +The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a +Traveller's Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII. +The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn'd on both +Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are +plac'd, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At +the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing +_Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the +Victory gain'd over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is +form'd by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc'd +Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there's an _Equestrian_ +Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the +most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the +Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer'd some Years ago +to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou'd be put into the Horse's +Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it +is at present. 'Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable +Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all +Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the +Direction of _Michael Angelo_. + +In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two +others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer'd. +There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of +the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there's a stately +Fountain adorn'd with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals, +representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the +Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of +excellent Sculpture. + +The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings, +particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the +Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by +_Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by +_Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus +Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in +short, which I don't mention, as being of less Value, and which are not +much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou'd +pass with us for Master-pieces. + +Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call'd _Campo-vaccino_, I +cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to +particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the +admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold +without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou'd have the +same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to +see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the +ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much +Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury'd; beyond +that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the +immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of +_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain +Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Divae Faustinae_; on your Right-hand the +melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the +eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was +built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having +reconcil'd the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. 'Twas in this Temple, +according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of +the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the +Mistress of the Universe, as wou'd put you in mind of the Instability of +this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou'd you say, if you shou'd +go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of +all Things, had spar'd, but was destroy'd by Men, and such too as were +most concern'd in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was +beautiful? And what wou'd you think, if you saw there was scarce enough +remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once? +'Twas _Vespasian_ that caus'd it to be built after the Model which was +intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and 'tis built +of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena +is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the +highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for +the common People. They say it contain'd eighty-five thousand Spectators. +It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great +Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter'd five +thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and +_Urban_ VIII. caus'd the _Coliseum_ to be demolish'd, and made use of the +Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families. + +Having entertain'd you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now +take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you +into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general. +I don't deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere; +but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so +much Notice as is taken of 'em. Methinks, 'tis with the Buildings of ROME, +as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish'd, we are +apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou'd censure. A great +many Palaces are admir'd here, barely from the Prepossession that +Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was +true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an +_Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but 'tis not so +now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their +Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in +_France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the +Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments +of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which +have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms +have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is +the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix'd where +they shou'd be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and +Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or +six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving +Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not +look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As +to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of +Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho' +there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work'd, that +the Gilding employ'd on them serves only the more to expose their +Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either +of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn'd +with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which +are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six +Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some +Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in +such sorry old-fashion'd Frames, that they disparage them. They have but +few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal +Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are +beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou'd be +better pleas'd to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I +don't think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here +is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a +long while in their Graves; and there's no House furnish'd in the modern +Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_ +and _Carolis_. + +'Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here +the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME; +_Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building +were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of +_Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of +Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This +Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn'd +with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up +fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of +oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to +this Palace is through a great Court, adorn'd within by _Doric_ Pillars; +and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by +Arches, with great Galleries well cover'd over, where we see the famous +Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation +of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there +is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble, +all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten'd to a Bull, +by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of +_Boeotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had +divorc'd, because she had suffer'd herself to be debauch'd by _Jupiter_ in +the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie +_Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she +was dragg'd about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess, +turn'd her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_ +to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under +Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor, +from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that +it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been +plac'd there. + +The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn'd with several +fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History +of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass'd the _Scheld_, who is represented as +crown'd by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain'd to his Feet. +There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches, +and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by +_Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and +_Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the +memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference +with that Pope's _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many +fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest +Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout +by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very +great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In +fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that +the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all +taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. 'Tis +pity that 'tis not finish'd, for in Truth it wou'd be a fine Piece of +Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_'s _Miracles_, +which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for +their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate, +and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their +Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of +their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don't live to finish; +and 'tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles, +either because they don't care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left +them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the +Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good +for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a +mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the +Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that +they are swallow'd up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the +Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to +decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch'd off on +sudden by Winter. + +_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind +the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden +of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River, +in the Quarter call'd _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the +Duke of _Parma_ wou'd have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in +his own Capital. + +The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is +larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The +Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms +a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great +Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_, +who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of +Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection. +The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really +contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give +you all the Particulars, I shou'd never have done. That which very much +disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might +easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses +which belong to it. + +The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the +Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now +actually carrying up, is finish'd. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner +of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the +richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who +died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in +Specie. The Prince is a very good [OE]conomist, has no Children, and being +not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife, +his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_ +Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted; +and though they have been as often reconcil'd, either by their Kindred, or +by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been +assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are +asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender +Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as +bad. + +'Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts +(which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_ +XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended +they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in +Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe +it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But, +'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the +Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I +shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his +Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_. + +If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will +be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady +who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes +to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in +better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME, +and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to +many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same +Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is +extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of +this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the +Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand +of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the +Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece, +and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for +presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of +_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable +and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The +present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the +finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and +live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis +what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most +magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had +another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being +oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you +the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all +richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an +extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that +are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all +_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which +support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon, +which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete +Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six +Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The +Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory +gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the +Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands, +and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn +the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing +more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never +saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and +Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting +the Hackney to the Pope. + +This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on +St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it +was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the +Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the +Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs, +and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach. +When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession +Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which +were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's +grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set +out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They +were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse +and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the +Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an +Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March; +then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The +Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their +Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is +a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with +the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on +the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the +Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the +Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney, +came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by +thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own +Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_, +the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left. +The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and +riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the +Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses. +When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who +was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador +kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of +the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his +Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which +his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of +_Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which +the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the +Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor +and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August +Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all +his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the +Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all +the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was +present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical +Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the +Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. +The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's +Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief +Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the +Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any +Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of +the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which +were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the +Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white +Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the +Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine +Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a +manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the +Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the +principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was +illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as +they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the +Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by +assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXX. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._ + +Tho' I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can't +forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_. +There's an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an +elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above +the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form +Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The +Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a +Monarch. 'Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the +Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of +Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of +Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this +Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the +_Borghese_ Family, and tho' no more than an Advocate at first, rais'd his +Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_. + +The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen +thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a +Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done +more than this. The Prince's Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a +stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there's a +second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the +Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most +populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent +Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built +by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by +Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope's Nephews. Before the Art of +Gardening was introduc'd into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of +_Italy_ were reckon'd the finest in the World; but now-a-days 'tis +otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ'd before) a Man is an +_Italian_, and never pass'd the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon +all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and +_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou'd not have you think that I find no +Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their +Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form'd, tho' +they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz'd at the Magnificence of those +who made those Gardens, and am pleas'd to find by what they have done, +that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come +short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to +see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer +them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the +Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V. +and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are +kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all +this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm'd, as the Gardens of +_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries. + +_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. 'Tis a large +Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments +are spacious, but very sorrily furnish'd. The House at the Vineyard +_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with +which 'tis adorn'd. 'Tis almost intirely cover'd on the Outside with +stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, 'tis a Pleasure to +see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the +Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of +_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made, +that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho' very ill furnish'd, are +adorn'd with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou'd admire +_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe +representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos'd into a Laurel, at the +Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient +Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble, +representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or +Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the +_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, +as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue; +and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of +curious Workmanship. 'Tis said that this Statue was discover'd under the +Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the +Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus'd it to be erected; and really +'tis so curious a Piece, that it wou'd have been pity it had not been +found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other +Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou'd never have done; for no King in +the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of +a Treasure that is inestimable. + +I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings +and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has +taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was +perform'd on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the +Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of +the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o'Clock, as they call it +here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the +Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the +Way, follow'd by several close Carriages cover'd with Tapestry embroider'd +with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong'd: Then came the +Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were +follow'd by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of +_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress'd +in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope's Equerries in red Robes, his +Holiness's Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge, +went before two Portmanteaus trimm'd with red Velvet lac'd with Gold, +which were carry'd on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms +in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute +for _Naples_. The Pope's Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace +and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover'd with red Velvet trimm'd with +Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope's Stables follow'd by two Prickers. At +some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without +Distinction of Rank, all dress'd in black Coats and Mantles, with great +Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope's Mace-bearers, in +long-sleev'd purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of +solid Silver, and follow'd by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of +red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen +Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope's Trumpeters +dress'd in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in +red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call'd _Camerieri extra muros_. The +Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial +Advocates dress'd in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes. +The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple +Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that +are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in +Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were +follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the +Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the +Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin +Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then +came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del +Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding +the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd +towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands. +Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with +red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules. +Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many +red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver +Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompass'd the Litter, as did +the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths +trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the +hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuirass of Iron, and his +Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with +Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white +Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd +with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a +Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came +the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At +some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were +dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes, +with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a +Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops, +assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber, +the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic +Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was +clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the +Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of +the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts +of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats +great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and +Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not +of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were +adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms +they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue +Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_. + +All this Cavalcade pass'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung +with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis +_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the +Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope +answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train +pass'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which +the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect +every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church. +From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable +Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who +had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose. + +When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St. +_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of +the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and +being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to +the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope +being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on +the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the +Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and +presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other +of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the +Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from +his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal +Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler +to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled +the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and +was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of +the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the +Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a +Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he +receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other +Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being +assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre, +and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended +from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to +the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the +Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the +great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of +ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to +all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among +the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was +carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals +_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of +_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train. + +This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more +magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than +they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of +Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS +CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple, +mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the +Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not +to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at +all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either +in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this +Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers +Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_ +upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic. + +The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but +as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen +for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of +the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals +of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_ +Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour +getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals; +if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But +at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from +me again before Lent. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXI. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, March 10, 1731_ + +I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it +sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate +for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score +from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is +the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of +obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all +Countries, and all Courts are alike. + +Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who +officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then +indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order'd me to +be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according +to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair, +ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red +Velvet. As I enter'd the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which +I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach'd +him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel'd again, and +receiv'd the Pope's Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming +up close to the Pope, I kneel'd again, and receiv'd a third Blessing, all +which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they +consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one +Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask'd me many Questions, +and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was +extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so +long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the +Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope's Countenance change; his Smiles +were turn'd into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather +have my Room than my Company. But being appriz'd beforehand, that his +Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without +omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber, +I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at +Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all +that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon; +for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun'd, and therefore I will +gratify him in his own Way. + +Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than +I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the +Pope's Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago, +went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv'd in the same manner +as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in +the Antichamber, and without being oblig'd to leave his Sword and Hat, as +those of his Retinue were, he was introduc'd by the _Major Domo_ to the +Pope, who receiv'd him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as +he enter'd, nor did the Pope, who ask'd him several Questions, and was +inform'd that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he +withdrew, the Prince desir'd the Pope, that he would give him leave to +introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the +last Degree, neither kneel'd, nor kiss'd the Pope's Foot. At _Geneva_ +indeed he deserv'd to have his Statue erected, tho' here his Politeness +was call'd in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was +charm'd with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five +Months here, and liv'd handsomely. He apply'd himself to the Knowledge of +Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho' not so +large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover'd a very +great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_ +if all its Princes were like him. + +The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those +unfortunate Princes who are here call'd the King and Queen of _England_. +Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot +they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body +can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the +Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him +easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis +_Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that +are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court, +since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord +_Inverness_, retir'd to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the +Education of the young Princes, who are here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, +and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall +see. + +The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style +of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never +goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the +Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the +Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When +the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool; +but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to +do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem'd to be more embroil'd with +the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go +to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict +Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_. +When the eldest Prince, who is here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, goes to +wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has +a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals. +As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet +settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope. + +_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I +may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is +prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II. +his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far +from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would +indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch'd by the +Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_, +_alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If +one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely +attach'd to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a +Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be +educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister +preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is +extremely reserv'd at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but +it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very +courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table, +and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me. + +His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what +is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are +seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits +himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his +Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His +Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally +upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he +rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon, +when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours +at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes +to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without +ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at +Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his +Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to +Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every +Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the +Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court. + +The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen; +and tho' not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is +infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish'd +Lady, and never was there a better natur'd Person with more Humility; she +is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in +Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of +ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good, +and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho' she is heartily +attach'd to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ +from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and +good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it +her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed, +Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a +Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory, +and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_ +so well, that 'tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is +most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I +had the Honour to approach, I don't know one more deserving of the +Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that +Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so +strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her +wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms. + +You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by +consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and +Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of +_Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at +_Inspruck_, when she pass'd that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the +Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her +Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr. +_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could +procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany'd by +Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who +carry'd his Wife with him. They arriv'd accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a +great Retinue, and there they pass'd for People of Consequence: They +contriv'd so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to +give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was +repair'd: They introduc'd themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a +Nun whom they brib'd to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix'd on +the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was +Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess's Stature to pass +thro' the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner's Bed, who +for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl's +Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass'd thro' her +Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the +Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to +apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow'd a +great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen'd to step into a +Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig'd to +leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From +thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet +and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr. +_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the +Coach, and _Misset_ stay'd two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether +any Discovery was made of the Princess's Flight. The Silence of the Guard +was such, that he believ'd they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he +rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to +watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for +early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and +the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the +great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend +the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he +travell'd a little way with him, and resolv'd either to make him drunk, or +to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a +certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their +Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the +Messenger; and when he found him doz'd, he took away his Dispatches, and +went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three +Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy +See. + +Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a +Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony +was accordingly perform'd there without much Pomp, and the Princess set +out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany'd by all the +_English_ of both Sexes that were at ROME of the Pretender's Party, went +in that Prince's Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the +_Roman_ Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus +did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv'd +with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join'd by +her Husband[5]. + +While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you +of a certain Prophecy in every body's Mouth here, which was said to be +found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734, +the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of +_Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this +as it will, the Prophecy is as follows: + + Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah, + Et Antonius Veni Creator, + Et Joannes Baptista caenabit, + Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III. + + _i. e._ + + _When Easter falls on St. Mark's Day, + And Whitsunday on St. Antony's of Padua, + And when St. John the Baptist's is a Sacrament Day, + Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._ + +Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was +to me very tiresom, tho' it lasted here, according to an establish'd +Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o'Clock in the +Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on +Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things, +and the latter throw Meslin in one another's Eyes by Handfuls; but the +best on't is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body +is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even +in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make +them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in +open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn'd with Plumes of +Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the +Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del +Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of +Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer'd to run loose +without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the +_Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro' the Shouts and Cries of +the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the +Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for +his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at +Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the +Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World. + +But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where +to be parallell'd for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now +be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb'd this Winter for the Hire of the +Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus'd it to be +furnish'd by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix'd for the Ball, they +invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of +appearing there mask'd, provided they made themselves known at the Door: +All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several +Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design'd +for the principal Nobility was encompass'd with Forms, and the Place for +the Dancers was an oval Nook rail'd in. A Gentleman of the Company that +gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title +of Master of the Hall, and 'twas he that call'd out the Dancers. All the +Ladies were mask'd at this Ball, which was call'd a Feast, but I know not +why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink. +The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have +been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir'd, and in +such Danger of being press'd to Death, that I don't care to go again; for +which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste. + +Neither am I very well reconcil'd to their Plays, of which indeed here are +none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two +Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there's +but one that's good for any thing, and that's the Ladies Theatre, commonly +call'd the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because 'twas built by Order of one Count +_Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in +it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room +look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage +is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don't shift the +Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the +whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the +three principal Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are +horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most +part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can't imagine any +thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a +ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here, +that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that +the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_. +There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures, +who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho' they have neither +Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best +Actresses are elsewhere. Tho' I am passionately fond of the _Italian_ +Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see +those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such +Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no +Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an +Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very +scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that +have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the +Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; _viz. +Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison'd at _Naples_; but there are +still remaining M. _Hass_, commonly call'd the _Saxon_, and _Signior +Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous +_Signiora Faustina_. + +While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to +omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform'd on the +four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being +then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring. +The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses +are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a +Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which +sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while +the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a +thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the +Square, bawl'd out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho' very +few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and 'twas not his +Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces +from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions +of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit +had. + +Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never +pass'd the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell +you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_ +don't know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where +reigns the greatest Freedom, there's always an Air of Constraint, which +one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them, +insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget +Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know +how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be +acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats, +where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where +they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and +I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not +the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don't set it off +to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to +me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their +Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for +us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of +Cookery. + +I know not whether 'tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of +Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or +Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more +melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in +particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of +Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself, +that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can't be of that +Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so +contrary to ours. At my Age, 'tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste +and Fashion of Living: Those of ROME don't agree with me, and I foresee +they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I +promise you, I'll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my +Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin. + +The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they +do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of +which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return +home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After +their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and +after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they +dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from +thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there's a Walk, which is very sorrily pav'd, +between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there's no Air, but Dust +enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_ +repairs to the Square, or Place _d'Espagne_, where I think I have already +told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their +Visits of Ceremony: At Two o'Clock at Night, which in the long Days in +Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _Assemblies_. These may be +divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private +Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only +converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the +Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of +all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses. + +The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of +Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope's Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the +Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there +is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain'd. The +Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all +the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand +Assembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the +most part well-dress'd, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbes, +lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and +salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except +Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises; +and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which +she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak +this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they +don't care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I +travell'd hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_ +Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer'd +me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+ +Language_. She then turn'd about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking +Abbe come in, who talk'd with her in private all the Evening, and probably +in such a Language as she understood. + +After the Levee they fall to play, but 'tis at such Games as we +_Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_, +_Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take +it to be like the Languages, which 'tis difficult to be Master of, unless +People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man's +whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with +99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes, +Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope. +During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all +Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the +Money for the Cards. + +The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have +not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a +Dozen _Petits-colets_, who really are the _Petits-Maitres_ of this Place, +supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these +Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abbe to put in a Word, because +they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of +Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. 'Tis +true, that the Abbe wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and +as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so +that when you see a _Petit-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you +must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even +Clergymen. + +The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at +the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure +and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the +Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter +a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles, +so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where +to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles +are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion'd Stands of +the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts +with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if +those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but +whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill +Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so +that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse +with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a +black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every +time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been +congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring +Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the +two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes +the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you +that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality. +Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises +his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to +what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary +Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or +Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And +after having thoroughly canvass'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight, +all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs. + +Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes +his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman +indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion +of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture, +and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has +digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing +more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing. +There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of +the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers +in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method. +All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon +Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are +Masters of it in its Purity. + +A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the +good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say +it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony, +because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there's scarce one of them +in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this, +one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave +at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they +then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a +Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in +their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that +puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in +_France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho' an _Italian_, was in the _French_ +Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told +me one Day that he observ'd I follow'd the _French_ Fashion strictly: I +ask'd him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day. +Nevertheless I wou'd not have you think that this Slovenliness is general; +for there are People as much perfum'd here as elsewhere; and you may take +my Word for it, that a _Petit-Maitre_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the +pertest _French Petit-Maitre_. Indeed they are more rare here than +elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before +they are twenty Years of Age. + +But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you +ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains +have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all +Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest +_Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the +same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth, +where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus'd +of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there's no Nation where +the Ladies have more Freedom than here. 'Tis possible that some of the +Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as +to the People of Quality, I don't think them any more liable to that +Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou'd say as much in their +Vindication as to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the +Fact is too well known, and 'tis the original Sin of almost all the +_Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest; +and 'tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as +they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other +Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort +drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus'd also of +being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry'd out +against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some +that have receiv'd Affronts, so good-natur'd as to forget them. 'Tis true, +that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is +owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder +for the first Time is condemn'd to the Gallies; tho' in some Cases indeed +he is only banish'd from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then, +after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME. +They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally +compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money. +If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches +were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou'd have more Crimes perhaps +committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and +done, we don't hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of +Robberies; and tho' there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls +here in the Night, I shou'd make no Scruple to go from one End of the City +to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou'd be most afraid of +wou'd be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind +are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among +Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such +an Accident to any Person of Note. + +I happen'd not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my +Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven +o'Clock, 'twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People +stirring in the Streets. I pass'd thro' the Street _del Corso_, and just +as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal +_Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance +behind the other: As the former brush'd close by me, I heard a Pistol go +off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from +the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming; +but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went +very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after; +at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50 +Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But 'tis +really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the +Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou'd serve as a Place of Retreat for +a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour's Blood. This is an +Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient +Privileges. In the last Pope's Time, _Alberoni_ propos'd to the other +Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the +Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he +said with Indignation, 'Since 'tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain +wou'd take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge +to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole +Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to +Justice, I wou'd do all in my Power to promote his Escape.' 'Tis said, +that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard +to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture +at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges +of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People, +and the Homage of the Mob. + +Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so +establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better +serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this +Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims +is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it +almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days, +and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of +the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and +the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME. + +Divine Service is perform'd with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but +particularly in the Pope's Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all +the Ceremonies therein observ'd, it wou'd take me up another Day. I will, +in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy +Week, which, tho' I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of +_Clement_ XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better +enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXII. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, June 15, 1731._ + +Tho' the first Promotion of Cardinals by _Clement_ XII. was made the Close +of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with, +that I deferr'd giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This +Promotion was made in Favour of three _Nuncios_, (who, by the way, never +quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean +the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_, and _Spain_, and Signior _Ruspoli_, +the Pope's Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the +Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. his Father having obtain'd it for him of +Cardinal _Coscia_, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being +appriz'd of the Bargain, which his Father had made with _Coscia_, he went +to _Corsini_, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father's Friend +and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass'd betwixt his Father and +_Coscia_, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou'd +never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope's mere Good-will. +Cardinal _Corsini_ being charm'd with the generous Temper of young +_Ruspoli_, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in +St. _Peter_'s Throne, he has preferr'd _Ruspoli_ over the Heads of many +Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See. + +This Promotion was made at _Monte-Cavallo_. The Pope had declar'd in a +private Consistory, that he was resolv'd to make five Cardinals, _viz._ +the three _Nuncios_ above-mention'd, Signior _Ruspoli_, and a Fifth, whom +he reserv'd in _Petto_. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a +Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch'd Couriers to the _Nuncios_ to carry +them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint _Ruspoli_ +of what had pass'd. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the +Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the +Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank'd him for the Favour he had just done +him, and then return'd to his Palace, where he receiv'd the Compliments of +all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior +_Neri Corsini_, _Clement_ XIIth's Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had +reserv'd in _Petto_. On the _Thursday_ following there was a public +Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according +to the Ceremonial, been oblig'd to keep his Chamber, and to be dress'd in +Purple, receiv'd the Hat from the Pope's own Hand. His Eminency repair'd +in the Morning to the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_, while the Cardinals were +assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join'd in the Chapel by +these Cardinals, _viz. Barberini_, who represented the Dean of the Sacred +College; _Ottoboni_, the Great Chancellor; _Albano_, the Chamberlain; and +_Cienfuegos_, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great +Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the +usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return'd from thence into the +Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel, +with his _Caudataire_, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies. +During this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by +kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch +Cardinal _Ruspoli_, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As +he enter'd within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated +at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle +of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on +his Knees, and kiss'd both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who +rais'd him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went +afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their +Seniority, and then return'd and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A +Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on +his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies. +The new Cardinal now kiss'd the Holy Father's Foot and Hand a second Time; +and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither +_Ruspoli_ followed him, and after having thank'd him for the Honour he had +done him, went and rejoin'd the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory. +This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope's Music playing before +them, to the Chapel, where _Te Deum_ was sung; after which the Cardinals +went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call'd the _Royal +Hall_. There they form'd a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank'd his +Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a +Brother, and then they all retir'd. When _Ruspoli_ came home, he there +found a Gentleman of the Pope's Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat, +which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When +Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair'd with a great Train to St. +_Peter_'s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the +Pretender to the Crown of _England_, and to the Princess his Wife; he also +made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited +the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank. + +A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which +he both shut and open'd the Mouth of Cardinal _Ruspoli_. At the former +Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father's Feet, his Holiness +laid two Fingers on the Cardinal's Mouth, and strictly injoin'd him not so +reveal to any body what shou'd pass in the Consistories at which he shou'd +be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv'd the Cardinals +of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter'd the +Conclave before the Pope had open'd their Mouths; which might sometimes be +the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days +between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But +_Pius_ V. declar'd by a Bull which he publish'd the 26th of _January_ +1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou'd not +exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking. + +Cardinal _Ruspoli_ being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took +his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc'd +the Words _extra omnes_, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies, +and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory +was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter'd +the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope's +Feet, who open'd his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and +Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to +bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring +adorn'd with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a +Custom establish'd by _Gregory_ XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold +to the College _de propaganda fide_. With that the Ceremony ended. In the +Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign +Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were +illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion. + +There are, as I have observ'd, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public, +the other Secret, and they are both notify'd to the Cardinals by two of +the Pope's Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father +himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels +to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They +wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the +Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, _Eminentissime Domine, Crastina +Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum_, or, +_fiat Processio._ They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not +let them wait a Moment; but are oblig'd to admit them, in what Plight +soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their +Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find +a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal +chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles. + +This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope's Council of State, wherein +he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs +of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to +each Cardinal, the Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the +Palls conferr'd upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of +in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin'd, as is, in short, +every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in +Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call'd the Secret +Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors +that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new +Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as +he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In +this Public Consistory, the Pope's Throne is rais'd much higher than +ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers +plac'd at their Feet. The Constable _Colonna_, in Quality of first Prince +of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour +that he yields to none but the Pope's Nephews. The Ambassador of +_Bologna_, and the Conservators of ROME, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are +plac'd on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope's great +Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right, +the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools. + +When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in _Petto_, tho' he names him +not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all +those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the +Pope dies ere he has declar'd him in Public, 'tis sufficient if the Holy +Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he +declar'd a Cardinal in _Petto_, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest +that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had +nominated in _Petto_. + +The Dignity of a Cardinal is look'd upon here as the greatest Thing in the +World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates +of this Court don't form to obtain it; and a Family at ROME never thinks +its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so +true, that one of the first Princes in ROME, who did not want a Hat in his +Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the +Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal +_Coscia_, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But 'tis mere Ambition +only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those +purple Gentry lead, is, as 'tis here said, the most melancholy in the +World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are +continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig'd almost every Day to +be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and +receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the +taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds +his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. 'Tis +true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify +such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational +Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is +but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their +Grandeur is a Burden. + +When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call'd _in +Fiochi_, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes +foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an +Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho' they are Princes, must +stop for him; and when two Cardinals meet one another riding out after +this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment +each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus +ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress'd in long Robes of Scarlet, +except in Time of _Lent_, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is +that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and 'tis in this Habit +they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the +Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person +has been once introduc'd to them, is to attend in their Train, when they +go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal, +when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most +honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a +Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest. + +As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of +the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can't see wherein it +consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics +are generally a _Maitre de Chambre_, an Officer who they say is tantamount +to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one +or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many _Valets de Chambre_; eight +or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their +Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they +commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the +Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat +alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and +of these, not one does it at present, but the Cardinal _de Polignac_, the +Minister[7] of _France_: For the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, the Emperor's +Ambassador, has retrench'd his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has +the Cardinal[8] _Bentivoglio_, on account of his Infirmities. + +I can't help thinking there's much more Reason to exclaim against the +ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown'd Heads, +and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho' a Cardinal is often but an ordinary +Man at first, only rais'd to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of +the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last +Pontificate, the Cardinals _Fini_ and _Coscia_. That such Cardinals shou'd +presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of _Bavaria_, or of +_Cologne_, of a Duke of _Lorain_, and in short, of every Prince +whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College, +I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv'd such a +high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of +the Princes of _Italy_, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a +Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency +in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of _Italy_. Our Princes on the +other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much +devoted to the Holy See, as the _Italian_ Princes are; yet they don't pay +this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We +have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there +are very few of 'em that wou'd refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of +the Empire. + +When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the +Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience, +where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after +having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal +that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When +the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a +Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one +another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there's a great +Air of Constraint. + +The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope's +Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are +distinguish'd into three Orders, _viz._ Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty +Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix'd by Pope _Sixtus_ the +Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl'd Dean of the Sacred College. He +that is so now is Cardinal _Pignatelli_, Archbishop of _Naples_. This +Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl'd +_Chiefs of the Order_; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving +Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical +State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. _Innocent_ the IVth, while the +Council was held at _Lyons_, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou'd be +red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the +Liberties of the Church. _Boniface_ the VIIIth order'd that they shou'd +wear scarlet Robes. _Paul_ III. requir'd that their Bonnets shou'd be of +the same Colour; and _Urban_ the VIIIth granted them the Title of +Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors +of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of _Malta_. The Council of _Trent_ +own'd it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of +Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the +Kindred of the reigning Pope, the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_ and +_Spain_, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine, +many of the Pope's Great Officers. + +There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat. +The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal _Ardicinio_; but Pope +_Innocent_ VIII. refus'd to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the +Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be +depriv'd of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal _Borgia_ +resign'd his Dignity to _Alexander_ VI. The Cardinal _Henry_ of _Portugal_ +quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King +_Don Sebastian_. After him, _Ferdinand de Medicis_, upon the Death of his +Brother _Francis de Medicis_, without Issue Male, preferr'd the +Sovereignty of _Tuscany_ to the red Hat, which he restor'd to Pope +_Sixtus_ V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr'd +an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly +Cardinal _Maurice_ of _Savoy_, _Ferdinand_ and _Vincent Gonzague_, +_Francis_ of _Lorain_, _Camillus Pamphili_, _John Casimir_ of _Poland_; +and _Gabriel Filippuci_ of _Macerata_, so lately as in the Pontificate of +_Clement_ XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the +Pope's Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it +must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs +wou'd be oblig'd to pay, if he was dead. + +There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly +honour one or other of the Pope's Family with it who advanc'd them to the +Purple; which is what they here call _Restitution_; and when they omit +this Piece of Respect, they are accus'd of Ingratitude. _Clement_ XII. has +not yet made this _Restitution_ to the _Albano_[10] Family, tho' he has +promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer +that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which +he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the _Albani_, +because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them, +that he wou'd take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The +_Albani_ were oblig'd to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not +give them much for the Hat they are like to have of _Clement_ XII. for you +are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is +afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat +vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion, +and then to satisfy the _Albani_. + +The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they +deny it. Be this as it will, there's hardly an Instance that the Popes +ever exercis'd this Act of Authority. _Clement_ XI. had an Intention +indeed to haue depriv'd Cardinal _Alberoni_ of his Hat, because when the +Cardinal was the Minister of _Spain_, he employ'd that Money against the +Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the +War against the _Turks_. But _Clement_ XI. met with so much Opposition +from the Sacred College, that he cou'd not accomplish it, and died. +Whether _Clement_ XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be +able to deprive _Coscia_ of his Hat, which is what he seems to be very +much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great +many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal _Coscia_ is of the +Purple, are not willing that he shou'd serve as an Example for the future. +The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho' it +has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc'd. Cardinal +_Coscia_ is retir'd to _Naples_. He has been very much blam'd for quitting +ROME, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur'd me that +he might have stay'd here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been +the unfortunate Cardinal _Coscia_, I wou'd have retir'd, but not in the +Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that +he is now, they shou'd cite me long enough before I wou'd be seen at ROME; +and I think, whoever advis'd him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11]. + +You know that immediately after the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. the +Populace ran to _Coscia_'s Palace, plunder'd it, and wou'd have torn the +Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap'd by a Back-door; after +which, he disguis'd himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come +back again, or else he shou'd have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues, +whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his +Archbishoprick of _Benevento_, after the Election of the new Pope; but he +did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and +afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten'd him with +the Castle of _St. Angelo_; whereupon he was frighten'd, and march'd out +of the Country; which is charg'd upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of +_Innocent_ X. of the _Pamphili_ Family, publish'd the 19th of _February_, +1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the +Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the +Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon'd three times in the Space of +fifteen Months, _viz._ once at the End of each six Months, and the last +Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the +Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv'd of +the Hat. _Coscia_ has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem +inclin'd to return, tho' his Acquaintance don't stick to affirm that he +will. Mean time, he has been depriv'd of the Archbishoprick of +_Benevento_, which the Pope has conferr'd on[12] M. _Doria_, the first +Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal _Coscia_ +complain'd of it bitterly, tho' to no manner of Purpose. I question +whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho' the Pope were +to give him his Passport: And really, what happen'd to M. _Targa_, his +Brother, is enough to deter him; for this _Prelate_ coming to _Venice_, +after he had been at _Vienna_, soliciting the Emperor's Protection for +himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order'd him to return to ROME; +which, after having desir'd, and obtain'd Promise of a Safeguard for his +Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two +Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not +to stir out of it without his Leave. _Targa_ yields Obedience, and the +Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all +this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry'd him off to the +Castle of _St. Angelo_; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope +intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin'd, and can speak +to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of +_Clement_ XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his +Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the +Holy See, we hear of nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men, +or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others +suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior _Sardini_, who was +impeach'd of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King +of _Sardinia_, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination +to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was +arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of +_St. Angelo_, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days +before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz'd, which he desir'd to +have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus'd. Some +Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify +himself, if he cou'd; to which _Sardini_ made Answer, That he had nothing +to say; that the Pope shou'd be his Judge, and Cardinal _Corsini_, his +Holiness's Nephew, shou'd be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in +no stead; he is still in Prison, and 'tis said, that the Pope will either +behead or pardon him. + +Some time ago Cardinal _Ottoboni_ made Interest for one _Nocera_, a Canon, +who was in Trouble also upon _Sardini_'s Account; and he desir'd the Pope +that he wou'd please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person +of _Nocera_, who was retir'd to a Sanctuary at _Albano_. The Pope made +Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he cou'd not grant him his +Request; but that he wou'd not charge his Conference with the Sin of +having suffer'd Iniquity to pass with Impunity. 'We are old, _said the +Holy Father_; and our Age tells us, that it can't be long before we shall +appear at God's Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that +we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if +we don't let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether +we shall live till To-morrow?' 'Your Holiness, _reply'd the Cardinal_, +ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great +Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the +other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of +Justice, and 'tis to be hop'd, that he will also permit you to run that of +Mercy.' + +I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had +from Cardinal _Imperiali_, who has had the Purple so long, that he is +actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of +_Innocent_ X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the +Ecclesiastical State without the Pope's Leave, he told me, That _Innocent_ +X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal _Astalli_, +his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to +all the Rout was this: After the _Portuguese_ had shook off the Yoke of +the _Spaniards_, and restor'd the _Braganza_ Family to the Throne, the +King of _Spain_, who always took the Title of King of _Portugal_, +pretended that 'twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and +Benefices that became vacant in _Portugal_. The Pope was at that time in +so much Subjection to the _Spaniards_, that this Plea of their Monarch +perplex'd him sadly. At last he thought of extricating himself out of +this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the +_Portuguese_ Bishopricks, and he resolv'd to assemble one with all Speed +for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal +Secretary of State, and the Cardinal _Astalli_, whom he injoin'd not to +speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be +summon'd for the next Day, the Ambassador of _Spain_ made such an earnest +Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The +Minister therein told him, That he was inform'd of his Design; and at the +same time protested against every thing that shou'd be done in the said +Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope, +very much incens'd that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had +been betray'd by his Secretary of State, and he reproach'd him for it +bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore, +that he had not reveal'd it to the _Spaniard_; and he said moreover, That +if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness's Secret, it cou'd be only from +Cardinal _Astalli_. He desir'd but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove +his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent +for one of the _Spanish_ Ambassador's _Valets de Chambre_, and promis'd +him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou'd +search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was +in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal _Astalli_. The _Valet +de Chambre_ cou'd not stand the Temptation, but carry'd the fatal Letter +to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope; +whose Wrath was then wholly turn'd against _Astalli_, to such a Degree, +that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him arrested +the very next Day: But _Astalli_ disappointed him of that Pleasure, +escap'd the same Night in a _Felucca_ from ROME, and sail'd for _Sicily_. +Then it was that _Innocent_ X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus'd +_Astalli_ to be summon'd, who indeed return'd to the Dominions of the Holy +See; but he stay'd in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of _Naples_, +where he was accompany'd by a Guard of two thousand _Spaniards_, who +remain'd with him as long as the Pope liv'd, after whose Death _Astalli_ +return'd to ROME. I have the Honour to be, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXIII. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 5, 1731._ + +Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you +honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all +the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected +Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported +to me; if I accuse wrongfully, 'tis owing to my Misinformation, or my +Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can't +define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I +will now relate them to you as they pass'd this Year. + +On _Palm_ Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of +_Monte-Cavallo_ to all the Cardinals, and others that were present. + +Upon the last _Wednesday_ in _Lent_, the Cardinals went after Dinner to +the Pope's Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the _Tenebrae_, +sung by the Pope's Voices, without being accompany'd by Instruments. 'Tis +perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos'd, and 'tis +so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give +Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication. + +The Pope being somewhat indispos'd upon _Holy Thursday_, Cardinal +_Barberini_ officiated for him. The Cardinals repair'd in the Morning to +the _Vatican_ in _Sixtus_'s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which +the Cardinal _Barberini_, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in +Mitres and white Copes, carry'd the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a +Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into _Paul_'s Chapel, which was +finely illuminated. There our Lord's Body was deposited, after which the +Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers +Nations, dress'd in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all +sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal _Barberini_, who +sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and +having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc'd some Collects, which were +answer'd by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin, +and went and wash'd the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which +was carry'd by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip'd their Feet dry, +he kiss'd them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the +Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he +reascended the Throne, and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up +the _Pater-noster_, and the Music finish'd it. This done, he went with the +Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum'd his ordinary +Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the +Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was +elegantly serv'd. The Pope's Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if +the Pope had been well, he wou'd have done the same himself. The Cardinals +din'd also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most +sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of +certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests +Table is defray'd by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both +Tables is order'd by the Pope's _Major Domo_. The Cardinal's Beaufet is +very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that +is better dispos'd. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with 'em; +which, 'tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that +happen'd to Pope _Alexander_ VI. and his Son _Caesar Borgia_, Duke _de +Valentinois_, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the +Cardinal _Adrian de Cornetto_, order'd Wine that was poison'd to be serv'd +up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said +Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But _Cornetto_ had +the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and _Caesar_ suffer'd +by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and +calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was +let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill'd them out each +a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar'd, which kill'd the Pope; but +_Caesar_, having caus'd himself to be wrapp'd up in the Skin of a Mule, +recover'd. + +After Dinner, the Cardinals return'd to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where they +assisted at the _Tenebrae_, and the _Miserere_. This Day's Ceremony of +washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes. +We find in the History of _France_, that _Robert_ the _Pious_, he that was +call'd King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two +hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash'd their Feet, particularly +upon Holy _Thursday_. So at _Vienna_, _Versailles_, in _Spain_, and at +several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign +Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day. + +Upon good _Friday_ in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at +Divine Service in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; after which, they din'd together, but +they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope's Chaplains read the +Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the _Miserere_, and +then they all went down into St. _Peter_'s Church, where, having form'd a +Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel'd down upon Cushions of +purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc'd the Reliques, which were held +forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our +Saviour's Side was pierc'd, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of +the Cross on which he was crucify'd. + +On _Saturday_ the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of +_Monte-Cavallo_. + +Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress'd in +his _Pontificalibus_, was carry'd in his processional Chair to his Chapel, +where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal +Priest. Then the Pope was carry'd to the Box or Gallery facing the Great +Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Coena Domini_ with an +audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures +against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square. +After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir'd from the Castles +of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the +Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that +led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn, +and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon +Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the +Saviour of the World, the Pope's Chapel is stripp'd of all Ornaments, the +Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives +so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand. + +Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those +that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_'s +of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the +Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the +Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_. +This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes +mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th +Volume, that 'twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_, +to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_'s consecrated by the Pope. And +Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus +Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn'd +with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_'s in the +first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the +Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of +their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform'd the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_ +after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_, +which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope's +Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and +between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and +his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps +to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of +Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of +the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover'd with red Damask, +there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of +solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and +gilt, Admirably carv'd by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten +Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the +Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a +Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The +Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the +same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry'd on. +Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that +was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy +Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp'd them into +the Holy Water, and carry'd it to mix with the Water that was in the four +Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons, +and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while +two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and +the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_'s in wooden Tubs, +wash'd with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns +fill'd with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish'd them up again +with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the +Prelates deliver'd to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the +Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then +retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days +they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_'s, which they say cost the +Chamber twelve thousand Crowns. + +Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_'s with very +great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry'd in his +Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated +on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform'd by the Music, one +of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_'s in a Silver Bason, +preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing +Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter'd the +Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater +Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo +venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir +answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and +kneel'd down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words +as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope's Throne, to whom +he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_'s, in little Packets, wrapp'd up +in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the +Standers-by, who receiv'd them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and +only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you. + +There's a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These +are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this +princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them +a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are +complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to +the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from +their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience +in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses +without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they +are pleas'd to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous +Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies +Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive +Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy +like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to +follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself, +and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman +carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is +a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the +Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they +pass by. + +The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies +of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex'd to +_Nepotism_ have been abolish'd, they have been oblig'd to humble +themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they +correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope's Nieces did not +give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in +general were oblig'd to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit; +nor did the Nieces go to any body's House, but enjoy'd all the Honours of +Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope +not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return +their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and +complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho' the Pope has +declar'd their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with +the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are +vastly pleas'd with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at +it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity. + +Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in +the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach'd to +the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that +the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the +Nobility, but as much dislik'd by the Princes. 'What! _said the Pope_, Do +the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood, +when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are +now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho' I +have declar'd my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an +old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.' + +I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy'd any +solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain +Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest +them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up +this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no +Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great, +and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword, +because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated +from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their +Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a +delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts +them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their +Inferiors in Birth. + +Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or +their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some +no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of +them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at +most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them; +for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over, +the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all +Compliments at meeting are set aside. + +The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that +their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to +a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what +they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the +Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again +when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they +find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for +Money. + +The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public +Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them, +who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or +five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp'd to give their +Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at +the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp'd at the very same +Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all +the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of +little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of +going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_ +Dutchess, who having travell'd in that manner at ROME, would fain have +introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that +Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad +with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the +Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person. + +Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches, +but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately +match'd his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for +which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost +more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and 'tis as much as a +Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable +Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are +generally accompany'd by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who, +with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen. +Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there +are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most +part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has +a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much +as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his +Service his Master _jubilees_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay, +and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are +Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number, +what matters it, say they, how they look? + +This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens; +they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to +maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_ +and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who +has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often +borrow'd of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty +Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn'd up behind his Ears, +and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon'd indecent here to +see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon'd Prostitutes +are always attended with a Matron. + +The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform'd here with very great +Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw +the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the +Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to +the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black. +Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave +of the Church, dress'd in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn'd +towards the Choir, and the Cardinal's Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de +Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black +Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas'd: There were an hundred great Tapers +or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high +Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When +the Cardinals enter'd the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy +Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of +the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine, +&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the +Corpse: The Cardinals retir'd after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos'd +till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the +Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos'd in +another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince +_Ruspoli_'s Corpse was expos'd in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_, +which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de +Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased's +Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, 'tis barbarous to +oblige Relations to attend each other's Funerals, as is the Fashion with +us. + +But tho' they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much +more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman's Mourning is black from +Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have, +which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown +Complexion. The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their +nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a +Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the +Kindred of a Pope. + +They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes +sooner. 'Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches, +whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow'd is always done +with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have +their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung +with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn'd +throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church +are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the +adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as +in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play'd off in +the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the +Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all +Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere +Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to +it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho' all that they +see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the +Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover'd +with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There's +scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of +these Fireworks. + +The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals, +the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority +extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See. +It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._ +one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one +_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three +_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is +President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides. +Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are +made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_. + +The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in +partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals, +and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown'd Heads[15]; tho' +I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet +saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign +Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that +require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor +Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern +Officers; and the Provost, who is call'd the _Barrigello_, with 300 +Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards, +who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever +saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must +know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes +by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the +Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of +Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major +Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes +abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the +Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to +give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of +the condemn'd Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of +the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits +it but to be made a Cardinal. + +Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend +that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, 'tis but a poor +Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of +ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his +Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil, +styl'd Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant +Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right +to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise +between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also +under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are +at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress'd in +a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin'd with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black +Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope's Chapel, and goes, like the +Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the +Cardinal Nephew of what has pass'd at his Bar; he is then dress'd in a +long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his +Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff +of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with +great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on +Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City. + +Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two +Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The +first, tho' 'tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death +itself; the Malefactor being ty'd with his two Hands together to a Rope, +by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on +a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is +to be hang'd, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest +Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates, +Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of +Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the +Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler, +_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn'd. _Here +he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the +Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will +remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the +Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along +with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him +in the middle, and carry him thro' several Galleries and Turnings towards +the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as +the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his +Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time +throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads +it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very +Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the +Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the +Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in +the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him, +_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die +willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him +the best Advice that he can. + +The _Italians_ generally make their _Exit_ like good Christians, but 'tis +with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn'd to die some Years ago +for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon _Sodom_, would not +hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal _Banchieri_, at that time +only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of +God to pardon his Sins; _What!_ said the Criminal to him, _Would you have +me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don't +know_, said the Cardinal, _of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit +such a Crime; but if there are, they don't plead guilty in the Face of +Justice_. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to +him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. _True_, reply'd the +Convict, _but they are not all hang'd_. + +After a Criminal has confess'd, he receives the Sacraments, and the +Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o'Clock, which is +the Hour of Execution, he is convey'd in a Cart to the Gallows, to which +he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they +are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a +Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the +Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the +Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and +then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his +Pain. After he is expir'd, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even +in the Pope's Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a +Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at +length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury'd like another +Man. + +You'll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal +Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to +write, so that I hope you won't take it ill that I add no more to this. I +am, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXIV. + + + _SIR_, _Rome, October 10, 1731._ + +This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from +ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put +to me in your last. + +You desire, _Sir_, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy +Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that +such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro' a Perspective in all +his Glory and Grandeur, shou'd be able to paint him? No, Sir, the +Successors of St. _Peter_ are not like other Princes: None but such of +their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them +thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them +always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell +me, that in all Courts 'tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this, +one may judge of Princes by their Actions. 'Tis very true, yet this gives +us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without +meaning either. + +To judge by outward Appearances, _Clement_ XII. may be rank'd among the +greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was +Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that +Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt +in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances, +which were very much disorder'd by the Ministers of _Benedict_ XIII. +renders him an [OE]conomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He +has the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus'd of +being more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of _Parma_, (which they give +out here was devolv'd to the Holy See by the death of the Duke _Francis +Farnese_) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the +Constitution in _France_: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but +he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews, +whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given +them very little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to +every body; he liv'd magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be +a prodigal Pope, than a _saving_ one: He was civil and affable, but not +very ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought +that was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent +his Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the +_Romans_, who had other Reasons not to be pleas'd with his Election, said +he rose to the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet. + +Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is +desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own +Minister. But 'tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and +he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ'd in State +Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all +this it were to be wish'd, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that +he had been chose Pope in the place of _Benedict_ XIII. But 'tis the +Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass'd +with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: 'Tis +pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that +constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the +good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho' he has not been sixteen Months in +the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not +generally approv'd of. Among other coarse _Pasquinades_ that were utter'd +upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix'd to several Gates of the +Pontifical Palace, _Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti, +ed un Minchione, +i. e.+ Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen +and one Fool_. Those five Cardinals were Signior _Guadagno_, the Pope's +Nephew, formerly a barefooted _Carmelite_; Signior _Doria Maestro di +Camera_, Archbishop of _Benevento_; Signior _Gentili_, a _Datary_, who had +been formerly _Secretary of the Congregation of the Bishops, and the +Regular Clergy_, a Post which, tho' the very next Step to a Cardinal's +Cap, the Pope had made him resign for the Office of a _Datary_, which is +but a mean Commission; Signior _Ferrayo_, and Signior _Bichi_, both +Nuncios in _Portugal_. + +The last is noted for the Broils that he occasion'd between the Holy See +and the Court of _Lisbon_: The King of _Portugal_ being disgusted with +this Nuncio for having defrauded him of the Customs, by entring Goods upon +his own Account, which he sold afterwards to the Prejudice of the +_Portuguese_ Merchants, and being moreover exasperated with this Prelate +for assuming more Authority to himself, than his Predecessors had ever +done, demanded of _Clement_ XI. to recall him; and upon that Pope's Death +he repeated his Instances to _Innocent_ XIII. who at length consented to +his Demand: But then the King, for what Cause I know not, alter'd his +Mind, and declared he was not willing that _Bichi_ should leave his Court +till the Term of his Nunciature was expired. And as the Pope had nominated +M. _Ferrayo_ to relieve _Bichi_, and was obstinate for the Return of the +latter to ROME, the King order'd his Ambassador to demand of the Pope for +what Reason he recall'd _Bichi_; and in case the Holy Father should +declare that it was to punish his Nuncio, He injoin'd him to say, that +this Minister was intirely innocent of the Matters laid to his Charge in +_Portugal_; but that if, on the contrary, the Pope should give him to +understand, that he recall'd _Bichi_, to give him such an Office in the +Apostolical Palace as might secure him a Cardinal's Hat, he the Ambassador +should then make Answer, that His _Portuguese_ Majesty was of Opinion, +the Dignity of Nuncio at his Court ought to procure the Purple for all +those who resided with him in that Quality; and that therefore his Majesty +would never suffer M. _Bichi_ to depart from _Lisbon_, till he was +declared a Cardinal. + +The Pope exclaimed against the King's new Demand, repeated his Orders to +_Bichi_ to return to ROME, and sent away M. _Ferrayo_ for _Portugal_. But +the King would not let _Bichi_ go out of the Kingdom, nor _Ferrayo_ come +into it; and _Bichi_ himself refus'd to obey the Holy Father, who +threaten'd him with Excommunication, but the Prelate, being sure of the +King's Protection, did not much value the Apostolical Censures. The King +in short continu'd to solicit the Hat for him strenuously; but _Innocent_ +XIII. would not hear it mention'd, alledging that it was not proper for +him, who, in Quality of Cardinal Protector of _Portugal_, had impeach'd +_Bichi_ at the Holy See, to advance him to the Purple. _Benedict_ XIII. +who was of a beneficent and pacific Disposition, no sooner came to the +Pontificate, but he wrote a Letter with his own Hand to the King of +_Portugal_, wherein he promis'd him the Hat for _Bichi_. The Sacred +College, when they were inform'd of the Pope's Intentions, made smart +Remonstrances to him, and every Cardinal in particular represented to him +how unworthy _Bichi_ was of the Purple. Cardinal _Corsini_, the present +Pope, was the Man that declar'd himself against that Prelate with the +greatest Warmth; for he told the Pope, that notwithstanding his Respect +for his Holiness, he would never consent that _Bichi_, that dishonourable, +that faithless Man, (which were the Epithets wherewith he honour'd him) +should be one of his Brethren. In a Word, the whole Sacred College shew'd +so much Disgust at the Thoughts of this Promotion, that the Pope was +oblig'd to revoke the Promise he had made to the King of _Portugal_. That +Monarch, incensed to see himself made a Jest of by the Priests, recalled +his Ambassador and Envoy then at ROME, and ordered his Subjects to leave +that City, and to have nothing more to do with the Holy See. And the Pope, +in his Turn, recalled _Ferrayo_, who still continued in _Spain_, on the +Frontier of _Portugal_, and summoned _Bichi_ to ROME, whither at last he +was determined to return. + +During this, _Benedict_ XIII. died, and _Clement_ XII. succeeding him, +_Bichi_, who is his Kinsman, went to _Sienna_, the Place of his Birth. +There it was that he heard of his Promotion, which was made on the 24th of +_September_ last, but not without strong Debates in the Sacred College. A +great number of the Cardinals put the Holy Father in mind, that he was +formerly the most zealous Stickler against _Bichi_: And in the Consistory +wherein the Pope propos'd him, a Cardinal gave his Opinion, that the +Prelate might be admitted into the Sacred College in Quality of a +Penitent, The Pope happening to say, that he knew of no other Way to come +to an Accommodation with the King of _Portugal_, than by making _Bichi_ a +Cardinal; one of the Cardinals made Answer, 'I question whether the +promoting of _Bichi_ will set us to Rights with _Portugal_; but let it +happen as it may, 'twill be, at the worst, but one Hat more ill bestow'd.' + +The _Romans_ actually pine for an Accommodation with _Portugal_; for the +Ambassadors of that Crown have always expended great Sums here, especially +since the Accession of the present King, who has caus'd a great deal of +Money to be laid out here in Statues, Pictures, and other Things of Value. +'Tis reckon'd upon the whole, that the Absence of the _Portuguese_ is a +Loss to the City of ROME of above a Million of _Roman_ Crowns in a Year. + +The Pope's Nephews are like their Uncle, Men of great Sincerity, Honour +and Probity; but whether 'tis owing to the Indolence of their Tempers, or +to their Want of Interest with their Uncle, they serve nobody, and know +not the Pleasure of doing Good. The Cardinal, who should naturally have +the most Credit, is he that has the least: He is penurious to the last +Degree[16]. Before he was made a Cardinal and Minister, People conceiv'd a +high Idea of him; they believ'd that a Person who had travelled so much as +he had done, and who had been many Years employ'd by the Great Duke in +_France_, and at the Congress of _Cambray_, must needs be well versed in +Business; therefore they apply this Verse to him, + + _Tel brille au second rang, qui s'eclipse au premier._ + + i. e. + + _He shines so much in the second Class, as eclipses him in the first._ + +Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don't look upon him as a +Minister. He is so reserved, that 'tis quite disgusting; and when he +grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who +receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will +have very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies. + +In the same Consistory wherein the Pope made _Bichi_ a Cardinal, the Holy +Father talk'd a great deal about the Succession of _Parma_. He complain'd +in general Terms of the Emperor, for arrogating to himself those +Prerogatives relating to the Dominions of _Parma_, which were only due to +the Holy See. He acquainted the Sacred College with every thing that he +had done for maintaining the Rights of the Church; he said, that as soon +as he was informed that the Duchess of _Parma_ was really not with Child, +he ordered his _Nuncio_ at _Parma_ to take Possession of the Dominions, +that were devolved to the Holy See by the Extinction of the Male Line of +the _Farnese_ Family; that his _Nuncio_ had executed his Orders; but that +_Stampa_, the Emperor's General and Commissary, had caus'd an Edict to be +publish'd, whereby, in the Name of the Emperor, he forbad all the Subjects +of _Parma_ from owning any other Sovereign, but him to whom his Imperial +Majesty shou'd give the Investiture of the Duchy. The Pope said, he was +sorry when he heard _Stampa_ had taken that Step; but that he expected +from the Emperor's Justice and Piety, that he wou'd not approve of the +Conduct of his General, and that he wou'd not do any thing contrary to the +incontestable Claim of the Holy See to the Dominions of the _Farnese_ +Family. The Cardinals returned a very modest Answer to the Pope, thanking +him for the Endeavours he had us'd to maintain the Rights of the Holy See, +and praying him to continue them. The Cardinals _Cienfuegos_ and +_Bentivoglio_, being inform'd of all the Complaints which the Pope +intended to make in this Consistory, took care not to be there. These +Gentlemen are extremely angry with the Emperor; 'What! _said they_, to +have no more Respect for the Pope and the Holy See, to invade the Estates +of the Church, and dispose of them as he pleases, are these Actions +becoming an Emperor, Protector of the Catholic Faith?' Really, to hear how +they talk, one wou'd think the Emperor had actually taken all they had +from 'em; tho' I am persuaded, that if he would but give them the Duchy of +_Parma_, they wou'd consent to his being a _Jansenist_. + +You desire, Sir, to be inform'd of the Reception that is given here to +Ambassadors. I shou'd have done this long before you desired it, if I had +seen any Ambassador go to an Audience of the Pope, besides the _Maltese_, +who has not so grand a Reception here as the Ambassadors of Crown'd Heads. +'Twas on the second _Sunday_ in _Lent_, in the Afternoon, that the +Ambassador of _Malta_, who has resided here six Years in Quality of +Ambassador of that Order, made his Entry as Tributary Ambassador +Extraordinary. This Minister, repairing without any Retinue to the +Vineyard of Pope _Julius_, without the Gate _del Popoli_, was complimented +there, on the Part of the Pope, by the _Major Domo_, and the oldest +Prelate; and on the Part of the Cardinals, and principal Nobility, by +their Gentlemen. After this, the Cavalcade was made with more Order than +is commonly observ'd here at public Ceremonies. First came the several +Coaches and Six of the Cardinals, Princes, and other Persons of +Distinction, following one another without Observation of the respective +Ranks of their Owners. Then came two of the Ambassador's Grooms on +Horseback, who were follow'd by four cover'd Waggons, and a Couple of +Field Carriages, cover'd with Tapestry, that was embroidered with his +Excellency's Coat of Arms. Next came the Ambassador's Master of the +Horse, follow'd by six led Horses, two Trumpets, with the Lackeys, _Valets +de Chambre_, Pages, and Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador, all on +Horseback. These were follow'd by the chief Lackeys of the Cardinals +riding upon Mules, and carrying their Master's red Hats flung over their +Shoulders; and after these came the Cardinals Gentlemen, who were follow'd +by a Detachment of Light-horse. The Chamberlains of Honour follow'd riding +upon Mules. The Knights of _Malta_ on Horseback rode just before the +Ambassador, who was supported by the _Major Domo_, and Signior _Colonna_, +the oldest Prelate. His Excellency was preceded by twelve running Footmen +in his Livery, and he walked in the Middle of a Couple of Files of the +hundred _Switzers_ of the Pope's Guard. Three of the Ambassador's Coaches +and Six clos'd the March. The whole Train pass'd thro' the chief Streets +of ROME, and accompany'd the Ambassador to his Palace, where his +Excellency treated all the Company with Refreshments. + +On the Day of Audience, the Ambassador went in his Equipage to the Palace +of _Monte-Cavallo_, attended by the Coaches of the Cardinals and the +Nobility. He was receiv'd at the Top of the Stairs by the _Major Domo_, +who conducted him into that called the Prince's Apartment. The Ambassador +having waited there a little Time, two Masters of the Ceremonies came to +acquaint him, that his Holiness was ready to admit him to an Audience in +the Consistory then sitting. The Ambassador went thither, conducted by the +Masters of the Ceremonies; and Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, +received him at the Entrance of the Hall of the Consistory, and conducted +him to the Entrance of the Court fronting the Pope. The Ambassador fell on +his Knees, and made a profound Obeisance to the Pope, who gave him his +Blessing. Then he fell on his Knees again in the Middle of the Court, and +the third Time at the Pope's Feet, to whom he made his Speech kneeling. In +this Posture he also delivered the Letter from the Grand Master to the +Holy Father, who gave it to a Prelate, ordering him to read it. The +Ambassador arose, and having crossed the Court, saluting the Cardinals on +the Right and Left, he fell on his Knees at the Entrance of the Court, +opposite to the Holy Father. There he heard the Grand Master's Letter +read, and afterwards a very long Speech in _Latin_, which an Abbat, who +was a Knight of _Malta_, made in the Name of the Order, upon his Knees. +The Prelate had no sooner read the Letter, but he answered the Speech in +_Latin_. The Ambassador, who was still on his Knees, arose, after the +Prelate had ended his Speech; went and kneel'd again at the Pope's Feet, +which he kiss'd, and then presented to his Holiness the Knights of +_Malta_, who had accompany'd him to the Audience, and who all kiss'd the +Holy Father's Feet. The Pope, rising from his Seat, retir'd to his +Apartment; but the Ambassador stay'd in the Hall of the Consistory, till +all the Cardinals were gone out. He then returned to his Palace, where he +gave a grand Repast to the Knights of his Order. The next and the +following Days, he made his Visits of Ceremony to the Cardinals. Their +Eminencies don't give Precedence to the Ambassadors; but bating that only, +they treat them as their Equals. + +I have been assured, that the Ambassadors Extraordinary of Kings are +lodged three Days in the Pontifical Palace, during which they have the +Honour to dine once with the Holy Father. If I continue here till the +Arrival of the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, who is +every Day expected, I will give you an Account how he is received; for +tho' these Ceremonies are printed here, I shall be willing to have ocular +Demonstration of the Things that I write to you. + +Of all the public Functions at this Place, there is none more august, and +more solemn, than the Procession with the Holy Sacrament, when 'tis +carry'd by the Pope. Upon _Corpus Christi_ Day, the Holy Father was placed +in an Arm-chair, without a Back to it, with a Desk before him, upon which +he laid the Pyx that contained the Holy Sacrament. His Cope, which was +very long, and very wide, so cover'd the Desk and the Chair, that the Pope +seemed to be kneeling. His Head was uncovered, and in this Posture he was +carry'd by eight Men. In my whole Life, I never saw any thing more +exemplary than the Countenance of the Pope during the Ceremony, his Face +being the very Picture of Contrition and Devotion. The Procession set out +from St. _Peter_'s Church, attended by all the Fraternities, the Monastic +Orders, the _Roman_ Nobility, the Conservators of ROME, the Governor of +ROME, the Chapter of St. _Peter_, and all the Prelates and Bishops. Three +_Tiara_'s, and as many Mitres, adorn'd with Pearls and Diamonds, were +carry'd before the Holy Father. The Pope was environed with the hundred +_Swiss_ of his Guards, all in Armour, and by the Officers of his Chamber; +and the Procession was clos'd by the Light-horse, and Cuirassiers on +Horseback. The Colonnade of St. _Peter_, and the Streets, were hung with +Tapestry, and cover'd with Canvas, to keep off the Heat of the Sun. As the +Pope passed by the House where the Family of the _Stuarts_ liv'd, he gave +to those Princes the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament. The Holy Father's +Nieces were in a neighbouring House; but they did not receive that +Honour, it being reserved only for Sovereigns. + +You seem, Sir, to be so much prejudiced against the holy Office of the +Inquisition, that I must endeavour to convince you of the mistaken Notion, +which, I presume to say, you have conceived upon that Head. Honest People +have no more Reason to dread this Tribunal, than any of the other Courts +of Justice. They tell a thousand Stories of it in our Part of the World, +and especially among the _Protestants_, which are absolute Falsehoods. Be +but an honest Man; speak of God and the Saints with all due Respect, or at +least don't offer to insult them; give no public Scandal; and you have +nothing to fear from the Holy Office. To speak the Truth, will not a Man +in all the Christian Countries, that is notoriously impious in Word or +Deed, will he not be taken to Talk by the Consistories, and by the Law? I +own, for my part, that I don't see wherein that Barbarity, and that +Inhumanity consists, which the Holy Office is charg'd with in _Protestant_ +Countries; on the contrary, it seems to me to be the mildest Tribunal in +the World. Let me be guilty of the greatest Injuries to God and Religion, +in Thought, Word or Deed; if I do but go and confess my Crimes to the Holy +Office, and tell them I repent of my Wickedness and Folly, the Father +Commissary will represent the Horror of my Sins to me, will exhort me, for +the Salvation of my Soul, to behave and think better for the future, and +at last will absolve me. Where now is that _Protestant_ Tribunal, which is +content with a voluntary Confession? Instead of absolving the Penitent, +don't they condemn him to Imprisonment, and bodily Pains? + +For these sixteen Months that I have been at ROME, I have not heard of any +one's being arrested by the Holy Office; on the contrary, I have seen +Acts of Clemency perform'd by this Tribunal, so much run down, which +perhaps the Consistory of _Geneva_ would never have done. I had not long +been here, but there came one _Pallas_, a Native of _Toulon_, and Captain +in _France_, who brought a young Woman with him, whom he said he had +ravish'd; he desir'd a License of the Vicar to marry her, which was +granted. But some Months after, there comes a Woman, who appear'd to be +the Wife of _Pallas_, and the Mother of the young Creature that he had but +just married, and who was ready to lie in. _Pallas_, perceiving his Crime +on the Brink of being detected, goes and reveals the whole to the Holy +Office, which first gave him Protection for his Person, and in a few Days +after acquitted him, injoining him at the same time to take his first Wife +again. This _Pallas_ dying not many Days after, his two Wives went to Law +for their Jointure. I question now whether this Officer would have been +acquitted by a Parliament of _France_. + +The Congregation of the Holy Office was established by Pope _Paul_ III. at +the Solicitation of the Cardinal _John Peter Caraffa_, who afterwards, +becoming Pope, by the Name of _Paul_ IV. made a remarkable Addition to the +Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, _Pius_ V. reduced it to its +present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a +Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are +called _Consultori & Qualificatori del Santo Officio_. Among those are +included a Conventual, the General of the _Dominicans_, the Master of the +Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the +Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes +Cognizance of the Causes of Heresy, and of such novel Opinions as are +repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of +Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked +Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits +twice a Week, _viz._ on _Wednesdays_ in the Convent of _Minerva_, and on +_Thursdays_ in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest +Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper +of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no +Proposals but what they think proper. + +The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. _Peter_'s Church, and there +live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and +other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are +try'd, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office +acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the +Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive +Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation. + +I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the +_Romans_ in particular, and the _Italians_ in general, I mean its to the +reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of _Italy_. +That the _Romans_ hate the _Florentines_, I think I have told you more +than once; but that's not all, for they as heartily hate the _Neapolitans_ +and the _Genoese_. They commonly say, that there must be seven _Jews_ to +make one _Genoese_, and seven _Genoese_ to make one _Florentine_. 'Tis +unaccountable how the People of _Italy_ can so hate one another. I can't +imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does +them; for, in short, 'tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to +another, but it diffuses its Poison to the Towns that are subject to one +and the same Sovereign. These People don't consider that they form one and +the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be +both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek +to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid +Support of their Liberty. + +To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho' our _Germany_ is divided +into many more Dominions than _Italy_ is, we do however form a Body +against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties. +The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor's Will; and their own Interest, +and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with +one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the _Italian_ +Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a +Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview +with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to +adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between _Philip_ IV. +and _Lewis_ XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act +towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful +Kingdoms? 'Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the +Governments and Towns of _Italy_, that has made them for a long time the +Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good +Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature +has furnish'd them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don't defend, +'tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of +all Dominions is determin'd, would not have it so. + +Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you +again, much less when I shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho' +there's scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do +you but render me like for like, and be assur'd that nobody in the World +is more strictly than I am, _Yours, &c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXV. + + + _SIR_, _Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731._ + +The Road from _Rome_ to LORETTO has been so fully describ'd, that I think +I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of +the _Santa Casa_, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the +Place where it now stands. If you would be inform'd of the Treasure of +this House, look into the Voyages of _Misson_, who has given a large +Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much +increas'd, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it. +The Queen of _France_ has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for +the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth +of the Dauphin. + +From _Loretto_ to BOLOGNA the Road is good, and 'tis a fine fruitful +Country; I stay'd three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see +the Cardinal _Grimani_, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a +Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected +Behaviour. He has been _Internuncio_ at _Brussels_, _Nuncio_ at +_Cologne_, and in _Poland_, and in this Quality he resided at _Vienna_, +when he was advanc'd to the Purple. I knew him at all those _Nunciatures_; +I saw him at _Rome_, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have +now seen him again at _Bologna_, and find he is the same Man now he is +both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an _Internuncio_[17]. For +'tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners. + +Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the _Apennine_ Hills a +second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all +Thoughts of being at _Leghorn_ at the Arrival of the Fleets from _Spain_ +and _England_, I have been at FLORENCE, and have had the Honour to wait on +the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly +paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at _Dusseldorp_, and +she was now pleas'd to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of +Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very +retir'd, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own +Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the +Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince's Equipage. + +I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great +Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an +Audience of him; yet I attain'd to that Honour at the very Time when I +least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress's Apartment, I +met one of the Great Duke's _Valets de Chambre_, who came to tell me, +That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz'd +me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he +convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the +_Valet de Chambre_ introduc'd me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke +sitting upright in Bed, accompany'd by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on +but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse +Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear'd with Snuff, and truly there was +nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in +Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain'd +Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv'd me however +with great Marks of Goodness, reproach'd me because I had not yet desired +to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very +ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince +remember'd he had known my Father, and he call'd to mind, that when he was +at _Berlin_, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask'd me what News +from the Court of _Prussia_? and wanted to know all the Alterations that +had been made there since his Time: He talk'd to me of the Court of +_Rome_, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy +Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master +of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a +gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand +Duke said, 'twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for 'twas no more +than Two o'Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which +I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a +Bottle which was by his Bed-side. 'Twas to no Purpose for me to protest, +that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another, +and after that a third. The Great Duke assum'd no State upon Account of +his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me. +I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good +Luck would have it, _Joannino_, his favourite _Valet de Chambre_, came in, +and whisper'd something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a +serious Air, and soon after dismiss'd me, but charg'd me not to go from +FLORENCE before I had receiv'd his Commands. _Make yourself as merry as +you can_, said the Prince; _but be sure not to go away without taking year +Leave of me_. Two Hours after I return'd to my Inn, his Royal Highness +sent me a Present of Fowls, _Bologna_ Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and +other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most +excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three +Months. + +I stay'd four Days, expecting the Great Duke's Orders; but as none came in +all that Time, I desir'd his Favourite _Joannino_ to ask him if he had any +Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir'd I would stay +two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was +arriv'd from _Leghorn_, which brought him News, that the _Spanish_ Fleet +had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be +very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform'd, that he +left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the +Commandeur _d'Elbene_, and the Marquis _Rinuccini_, who settled every +thing as they thought fit with Father _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister. + +The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure +Indulgence. 'Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace, +and above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon, +and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but +this is an Honour which the _Florentines_ don't easily attain to; for he +seems to be fondest of the _German_ Nation, whose Language he speaks well, +and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims +that pass this Way, either to or from _Rome_, but he sends for them to his +Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his +Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at +Five o'Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always +eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in +Table-Talk with _Joannino_, and some young Fellows call'd _Ruspanti_, +because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in _Ruspes_, which +are a Coin of the same Value as _Sequins_; and some of them have two, +three, and even five _Ruspes_ a Week. They are paid by _Joannino_ every +_Wednesday_ and _Saturday_; but all their Business is to attend the Great +Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; 'tis said their +Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal +Highness 80,000 Crowns _per Ann._ They consist of all Nations, but of +_Germans_ more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad +alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much +curl'd and powder'd. + +When the two Days which the Great Duke had order'd me to stay were +expir'd, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me +to wait on him, and receiv'd me altogether as kindly as he did the first +Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to +talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss'd me, +saying, _Farewel, go to +Leghorn+, and see my new Guests safe ashore_. + +I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some +Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court. + +The Commandeur _d'Elbene_ is Steward of the Great Duke's Houshold, and +President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit. + +The Marquis _Rinuccini_ is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul +of the Council, having been employ'd in Business a long time; for in 1711 +he was the Great Duke's Envoy at the _Hague_, and about that Time he +attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at +_Franckfort_. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the +Congress at _Utrecht_, and from thence he went to _England_: When he +return'd from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of +his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has +still the Direction. 'Twas he that dispos'd the Great Duke and the +Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don _Carlos_, the +Infante of _Spain_, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that +settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected +here with very great Impatience. + +Tho' the Nobility of FLORENCE are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet +'tis certain, that the Marquis _Richardi_ is one of those Gentlemen that +give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in +_Tuscany_, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three +Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don _Vincenzo_, +who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell'd +very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and +Merit. + +There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don't dress well, and +have not near so much Liberty as those of _Rome_: There's one Madame +_Suarez_ indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to +all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the +_English_; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming +in it. + +Before I set out from FLORENCE, I can't think it will be improper to give +you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the _Medicis_, which is +near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke _John Gaston_. + +This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to _Tuscany_. _Cosmo_ the +First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain'd that Title +about _Ann._ 1568. from the Emperor _Maximilian_ II of whom he had +demanded the Title of _King of Hetruria_; but the Emperor return'd him for +Answer, That he knew of but one King in _Italy_, and that was himself. +However, to gratify _Cosmo_'s Vanity, _Maximilian_ invented the Title of +_Great Duke_, that of _Arch Duke_ being already the Appenage of the House +of _Austria_. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances, +are as follow. + + _+Cosmo I.+ who married +Eleanor+ of +Toledo+._ + + _+Ferdinand I.+ who married +Joan+ of +Austria+._ + + _+Francis I.+ who married +Mary Magdalen+ of +Austria+._ + + _+Cosmo II.+ whose Wife was +Claude+ of +Lorain+._ + + _+Ferdinand II.+ married to +Mary de la Rovero+, Duchess of + +Urbino+._ + + _+Cosmo III.+ who married +Margaretta Louisa+ of +Orleans+._ + + _+John Gaston+, married to +Anna Maria Frances+ of + +Saxe-Lawenbourg+._ + +The Family of _Medicis_ calls to my Mind that of the _Kettlers_, Dukes of +_Courland_; and I fansy the following Parallel will hold between the two +Families. The _Medicis_, before they were Sovereigns of _Tuscany_, were +Standard-Bearers of FLORENCE; the _Kettlers_ were Gentlemen, and Grand +Masters of the _Teutonic_ Order in _Courland_. The Emperor _Maximilian_ +II. made _Medicis_ Grand Duke: _Sigismond Augustus_, King of _Poland_, +made _Kettler_ a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns +to _Europe_, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last +of the _Medicis_, and the last of the _Kettlers_, were married to +Princesses of the _Saxon_ Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing +of their Succession before they are dead[18]. Both Families began to +flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of _Europe_; and +in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same. + +I could stay but six Days at _Florence_ this Journey, because I had a mind +to see the Landing of the _Spaniards_ at LEGHORN. I had no Time neither to +lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv'd, and landed two +or three Days after. The Fleet was compos'd of two Squadrons, one of +which, _viz._ the _English_, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded +by Admiral _Wager_. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time, +but had been dispers'd by a Storm in the Gulph of _Lyons_. The _English_ +came in all together; but the _Spaniards_ arriv'd one after another, and +some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on +the second of _November_, _All Souls Day_, whereon there fell a terrible +Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis +_de Charni_[19], the Commander of the _Spanish_ Forces, came on Shore the +Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis _Rinuccini_, whom +the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to LEGHORN. The _Spanish_ General +was oblig'd to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the +Marquis _Rinuccini_, which when he had done, the _Spanish_ Forces enter'd +the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and +mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated, +that there shall be always two Thirds _Spaniards_ to one Third of the +Great Duke's Soldiers. The _Spanish_ Army consists of no more than 6000 +Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and +Equipage for above 20,000. There's one _Swiss_ Regiment, another of +_Walloons_. + +I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The _English_ has three Decks, +and carries 86 Guns: The _Spanish_, which had Admiral _Mari_ on board, +carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the +_English_ Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante +Don _Carlos_, and no Expence was spar'd to render it magnificent. The +Admiral's Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables, +Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, _&c._ were of _Indian_ Lacca +Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the _English_ +Ship was the neatest, and far out-did the _Spaniard_ in the civil +Treatment of those that went aboard. The _English_ Naval Officers are +almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to +such as came to visit them, and talk'd very modestly both of their Ships +and their Tackling; whereas the _Spaniards_ bragg'd of theirs beyond +measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were +much easier to work than those of the _English_, which are all of three +Decks; and affirm'd, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and +their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the _English_, and +not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was +told by an _Engish_ Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable +to one that had but two, because when 'tis a high Sea, and they are forc'd +to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining, +whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one +remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, _said the Officer_, being +higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the +other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of +Navigation, I know not whether my _Englishman_ was in the right. But be +that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally, +that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects, +it will be always safer to _lay a Wager_ on the Side of the _English_ than +on the _Spanish_ Ships. + +On St. _Charles_'s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don +_Carlos_, the Marquis _Mari_ gave us a grand Feast: I say _us_, because I +was there, as well as all _Leghorn_, _Florence_, _Sienna_, _Lucca_, and +_Pisa_, which you'll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover, +it was very gay. The _Florence_ Gentry, who expected that the Infante +would have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they +are naturally very prodigal, they spar'd no Cost upon this Occasion. The +_Lucquese_ Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that +taking the _Milanese_ and _Genoese_ along with them, they are of all the +_Italians_ the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality. +Besides the _Italians_, there was so great a Concourse of _Englishmen_ and +Foreigners at LEGHORN, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless +Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever. + +The _English_ are return'd home. 'Tis said, that the Infante[20] will come +hither speedily by Land. The _Tuscans_ long mightily to see him, and +expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his +Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of _Nostradamus_, who says +in one of his Stanzas, + + _Du plus profund de l'Occident d'Europe, + De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra, + Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe: + Son bruit au Regne d'Orient plus croitra._ + + _i. e._ + + 'In the most Western Part of _Europe_ an Infant + shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall + lead a great Force towards the _Po_, and whose + Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.' + +This Child, _born of a double Marriage_, must be the Infante, who is the +Son of _Philip_ V. by his second Wife. + +I heartily wish that I cou'd have staid at _Florence_ till this Prince +arriv'd; but I have order'd my Affairs so as to be at _Paris_ before +_Christmas_, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave +LEGHORN, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note +for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. 'Tis one of the neatest +Cities in _Italy_, and that to which there's the greatest Concourse of +Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their +Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and +lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of _Holland_. +The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided +into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render'd +convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for +Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the +Gallies. There's an admirable Marble Statue of _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_, +which is rais'd on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is +represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on +his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue +are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or +Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass, +representing _Turks_, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were, +chain'd to the Pedestal: The _Connoisseurs_ reckon them Master-pieces: +Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they +represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of +four _Turks_, _viz._ the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father, +and the Son; who being all on board a _Turkish_ Vessel, the youngest of +them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they +embark'd, that on such a Day they shou'd all be taken into Slavery by the +Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they +were taken by the Great Duke's Gallies, and this Prince caus'd their +Statues to be carv'd, to transmit the Event to Posterity. + +PISA, tho' a much more considerable City than _Leghorn_ for its Antiquity, +and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. 'Tis a +large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; 'tis divided +into two Parts by the River _Arno_, which comes from _Florence_, and forms +two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of _Gothic_ +Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are +of Brass, and represent the Passages mention'd in the New Testament, a +Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of +_Solomon_'s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the +Baptistery of _Florence_. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the +Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble +Columns. + +I say nothing to you of the Tower that leans to one Side, and which +consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor +of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call'd _il Campo +Santo_. Look into _Misson_, he will tell you the Measures of every thing; +for that Gentleman always carry'd Mathematical Instruments about him, so +that there was nothing but what he measur'd and weigh'd. + +PISA is a City, which a Traveller can't avoid seeing, but 'tis impossible +for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their +Ancestors gain'd by the Conquest of _Carthage_, that their Vanity is +perfectly surfeiting. + +Having stay'd but one Day at _Pisa_, I proceeded in my Journey to _Genoa_, +passing thro' the Forest of VIAREGGIO, where, if I had had a great Charge +of Money about me, and had credited what my Guide said, I shou'd have +sweat for Fear; because he affirm'd to me, that there was not a Week +throughout the Year but Passengers were robb'd and murder'd in this +Forest. But when I came to the Village of _Viareggio_, which stands in the +Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was +false; and that since the Courier from _Lucca_ was robb'd, which was +eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put +me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don't care to +tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an _Italian_ Lacquey that I have +in my Service, cou'd not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this +Forest to pass thro', he conjur'd me to take a Guard; but I banter'd him, +and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his +Beads. I had scarce travell'd half a League, but I saw five Men coming +arm'd; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy'd them, cry'd out like a +Madman, _Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia! +Misericordia!_ I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men, +who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their +Garb, that they were Soldiers from _Lucca_, who patroll'd there for the +Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at +first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to +PIETRA-SANTA, a little Place in the State of _Lucca_, he had not Strength +to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz'd him, that he was +almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every +whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus'd him to +bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my +Chaise, and went and lay at MASSA DI CARRARA, the Capital of a very small +Feodal Sovereignty of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal _Cibo_, the last +of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece, +who, 'tis said, is design'd for the young Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_, +Nephew[21] to the Great _Eugene_, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor's +Forces. + +The Founder of this Family was _Alberic Cibo_, the natural Son of +_Innocent_ VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor _Maximilian_ II. erected +_Massa_ into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing +remarkable in it but the Prince's Palace, which makes some Shew. The +Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at _Massa_ are of good +florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble, +and for Oil in abundance. + +From _Massa_ to SERSANA, or SARZANA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, the +Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and +Vines. In this City the _Genoese_ have a Governor, or Podestat, but they +keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better +Soldiers to withstand the _Corsicans_, who are call'd the _Devils_ of +_Italy_, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress'd. The +Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for +Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from +Foreigners. + +From _Sersana_ I proceeded to LERICI, a little Town on the Sea-side. There +I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv'd in less than twenty-four +Hours at _Genoa_, tho' I stay'd some Hours at SESTRI, an Episcopal City of +that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and very agreeably +situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This +Town is defended by a Fort, which seem'd to me to be well furnish'd with +Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann'd than that of _Sersana_. + +GENOA, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the +greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the +Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns +of _Italy_ it is with Justice call'd the _Superb_; for there is not a City +in _Europe_, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and +where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City +has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer'd a greater +Shock than in 1684. when 'twas bombarded by Order of _Lewis_ XIV. The +Marquis _de Seignelai_, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg'd +his Commission so well, that from the 18th of _May_ to the 28th, he caus'd +13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The _Genoese_ were oblig'd to +humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that +they wou'd send four Senators into _France_, to make their Submission to +him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho', +according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a +Foot out of the City, _Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari_ was then the Doge, +who went to _Versailles_, and had his Audience there on the 15th of _May_ +1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more +Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity. + +The _French_ boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck +Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in +Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of +the most glorious Epochas of the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. Far be it from me +to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and +to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether +the _French_ wou'd easily pardon any other Nations for making the like +Boast of their Exploits. The _Spaniards_, who have the Character of being +vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the +_French_. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is, +the Excuses which _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, Son to _Charles +Emanuel_, Duke of _Savoy_, made in Person to _Philip_ IV. King of _Spain_, +in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because +he had made a Treaty with _France_, sought to be reveng'd on him, and +found an Opportunity. _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ being assassinated, +_Mary de Medicis_, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with +_Spain_, by assisting _Charles Emanuel_. _Philip_ IV. improv'd this +Opportunity, and caus'd Troops to march from the _Milanese_ towards +_Piedmont_: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to +_Madrid_. The young Prince was very well receiv'd there at first, but he +had the Mortification to be oblig'd to make the most submissive Speech +that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: 'Sir, _said he, +addressing himself to the King_, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being +hinder'd from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to +supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I +am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief +of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at +your Majesty's Feet, resolv'd not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till +you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke +my Father, and our whole Family, into your Royal Protection. By this, +_Sir_, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest +Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is +devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration, +which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if +necessary, be seal'd by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon +your Majesty's Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve. +If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it +will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.' + +Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of +the King of _Spain_, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of _Genoa_ to +puff up _Lewis_ XIV? And is not a Prince of _Piedmont_ at _Madrid_, a +Person of more Consequence than a Doge of _Genoa_ at _Versailles_? +Nevertheless, the _Spaniards_ have neither struck any Medals, nor raised +any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for +this Digression: The Prince of _Piedmont_'s Speech is not to be met with +in all the Historians: I believ'd it would be acceptable to you, and +thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation +made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the _Doge_. I now resume +the Thread of my Narrative. + +The Street _Balbi_, and the _new_ Street, are more like Galleries than +Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the _Annunciation_ +and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the _Jesuits_ +College, of which _James Balbi_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, made a Present on +his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always +remain over the great Gate. The Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have +laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for +this End have had great Law-Suits with the _Balbi_ Family; but at length +they were condemn'd by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the +Founder, and there they still remain. + +The two Palaces _Purazzi_, which are in the same Street, are very +magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a +Theatre, called the Theatre of the _Falcon_, which is so extremely well +laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and +without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient, +and the Ornaments dispos'd every-where with Judgment. + +The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street _Balbi_. Here +are the two Palaces _Brignole_, and indeed they are both stately +Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the +newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent +Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an +extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon +Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one +wou'd not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs +_Brignole_ are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son: +They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in _Genoa_. + +The Palace of the Duke _Doria_, which is in the same Street, is grand and +stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince _Doria_, +without the Gate of St. _Thomas_, which owes its Foundation to the +celebrated _Doria_, who was a General of the Emperor _Charles_ V. This +Palace is very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the +Apartments are low and old-fashioned. + +The Suburb of St. _Peter d'Arena_ is very large, and contains several +noble Palaces, of which the Palace _Imperiali_, where the Emperor and +Empress lodged at their Return from _Spain_, is esteemed by the +Connoisseurs in Architecture. + +The People at _Genoa_ are more sociable than they are at _Venice_, and the +Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don't believe, that they who +accuse the _Italians_ of Jealousy, include the _Genoese_ in that Charge; +there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow'd more +Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have +very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess'd Lovers. +These Sparks, who go by the Name of _Cicisbei_, are never out of their +Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so +fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from +the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have +five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go; +and 'tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the +Ears. 'Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it; +for the Gentry here don't wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the +Lawyers in _France_; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I +could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in _France_ would likewise wear, +in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers. + +The People of Quality here dress very well, and the _Genoese_ of both +Sexes have a much better Air than those of _Florence_ and _Rome_. The +Princess of _Modena_'s Residence with them has not been to their +Detriment; for they have contracted a courtly Behaviour, to which the +_Italians_ are pretty much Strangers. The _Genoese_ in general understand +good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing +better. Tho' they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here +very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the +Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for +a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced +to them by the Count _Guiccardi_, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor, +and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke +of _Modena_, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince's +Minister at _Vienna_, when he went into the Service of his Imperial +Majesty. He married the Countess _Sinzendorff_, who was the Daughter of +_Hawitz_, the Grand Marshal at _Dresden_. This Lady was a _Lutheran_; but +being at _Vienna_, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the +Metropolitan Church of St. _Stephen_, while she was looking upon a Picture +of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she +was, and scorch'd her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou'd not shew +for all the Gold of _Peru_; but she received no other Harm, and thinking +that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression +upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary +Professor. + +You know that the _Genoese_ are actually at War with their Subjects the +_Corsicans_, who have newly publish'd a Manifesto of their Reasons for +taking Arms. If all they say be true, 'tis certain they have been very ill +used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus'd, theirs may. This War has +already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are +taking, 'tis to be presumed it will run them into a much greater Expence. +The _Corsicans_ have chose one _Giafferi_ for their Leader. He is a Man of +Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure +his Country its Liberties; and if the _Genoese_ are not assisted by some +Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to +Light. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXVI. + + + _SIR_, _Turin, Nov. 28, 1731._ + +The Road hither from GENOA is very bad at this time of the Year. During +the first two Post-Stages I cross'd one River no less than thirty-two +times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho' the +Neighbourhood of GENOA is very mountainous, 'tis very pleasant, all the +Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had +travell'd about four Post-Stages, I enter'd on the Plain which brought me +to _Turin_. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World, +and wants nothing but Causeys. + +The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was ALEXANDRIA DE +LA PAILLE, which stands on the River _Tanaro_. 'Tis a great Town, but not +very populous. It formerly depended on the _Milanese_, and was yielded by +the Emperor to the King of _Sardinia_, who keeps a good Garison in it, and +has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been +very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are +the most considerable in _Italy_. + +I afterwards came to ASTI, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which +indeed is one of the best of _Italy_, From thence I went and lay at +QUIERI, a great Town in _Piedmont_, ill built, but full of People of +Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was +in so much Haste to get to TURIN, that I did not stay there. I pass'd by +the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of MONTCALLIER, a Royal +Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King _Victor +Amedeus_. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the +finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more +worth a Traveller's View, than the Village of _Montcallier_ itself. + +At some Distance from this Place I cross'd the _Po_ over a wooden Bridge, +and came thro' a pleasant Avenue to TURIN, the Capital of _Piedmont_, and +the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of _Savoy_. Those Princes chose also +to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which +is what they call in _France_ the Parlement; and they have rendered it one +of the strongest and finest Cities of _Italy_, exclusive of its charming +Situation. 'Tis divided into two Parts, the _old_ and the _new_ City, with +Bastions and Outworks, well fac'd, and a Citadel very regularly fortify'd. +It stands eighteen Miles from the _Alps_, in a Plain which has the _Po_ on +one Side, and the _Duero_ on the other. + +This City will always be remember'd for the Siege which it sustained in +1704, when the Marshal and Count _Daun_, Governor of _Milan_, commanded +here, by the Emperor's Permission, at the Request of the Duke of _Savoy_. +He defended the Place against the Duke of _Orleans_, the Grandson of +_France_, and gave Time to Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ to come to its +Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The _French_ pretend, +that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of +_Burgundy_, the Daughter of King _Victor Amedeus_, was the Person that +prevail'd on _Lewis_ XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As +I am not privy to what pass'd at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of +_France_, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as +the Belief of what the _French_ give out upon this Head is not an Article +of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to +Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had: +For how can it be imagin'd, that if _Lewis_ XIV, had really a Desire, that +his Army should decamp from before TURIN, he would have chose to have +subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his +Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos'd the Honour of his +Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men, +which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet +would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the +Appearance of a Flight. But the _French_ have this Notion: They were never +routed, but 'twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be +routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the +Battle of _Hochstet_, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the +Elector of _Bavaria_, and the Marshal _de Tallard_; that of _Ramillies_, +because the Marshal _de Villeroy_ would not let the Elector of _Bavaria_ +have the Honour of beating us; that of _Audenarde_, because the Duke of +_Vendosme_'s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of +_Burgundy_, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. _de la Motte_, too, +suffered himself to be beaten near _Wynendale_, only in Complaisance to +the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to +persuade the King his Grandfather to the Peace, which he had very much at +Heart, if _Lisle_ was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have +been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. _de la Motte_ had +attack'd. The Passage of the _Scheld_, the raising of the Siege of +_Brussels_, the Surrender of _Ghent_, without strikeing a Blow; all this +was done also by Order of the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was for a Peace upon +any Terms, and cou'd not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and +Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the +Marshals of _France_ to tell me the same Story, they would find me as +great an Unbeliever as St. _Thomas_, and wou'd never prevail with me to be +guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of _Burgundy_, the +wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his +Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart. + +Nothing can be more regular than that Part of TURIN, which is called the +_new City_. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets +are wide, strait, and well-pav'd. It has fine Churches, particularly the +Metropolis, or Chapel of the _Holy Handkerchief_, which is also the Royal +Chapel, and may be reckon'd the Master-piece of Architecture. 'Tis in the +Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac'd, not excepting the Roof, with black +Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the +precious Relique of our Lord's Handkerchief, of which there's the like in +St. _Peter_'s Church at _Rome_, and at _Besancon_. I had been told, that I +should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this +Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour's Body; but I was not so happy as +to discern any thing like it. + +The King's Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite +finish'd; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv'd; The Furniture +is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There +are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos'd in the Manner of +Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they +are not much adorn'd. + +The finest, and the completest Thing at TURIN, and perhaps in _Europe_, in +the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame +Royale, the King's Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King's +Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. 'Twas a very old Building, +and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar'd no Cost, either in +Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it +happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal +Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and +to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This +Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in _Italy_, and fix'd +upon the Plans, which to her appear'd the most grand and beautiful. Before +this Stair-case was built, they us'd to say that Madame Royale's Palace +was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say 'tis a Stair-case +without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou'd become the _Louvre_, it +being by much too big for the Building it belongs to. + +I cou'd not get a Sight of the Castle of the _Venerie_, three Leagues from +TURIN; for while King _Victor_ is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer'd to +go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince's being under an +Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform'd of what gave +Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into +Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows. + +King _Victor Amedeus_, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was +Daughter of _Philip_ of _France_, the late Duke of _Orleans_, by +_Henrietta_ of _England_, fell in Love with the Marchioness of[24] _St. +Sebastian_, Lady of Honour to the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of +_Sardinia_. The Virtue of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, and the King's +Devotion for her, induc'd him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it +honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a +Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal +a[25]Match. He imparted his Design to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, who did +all she cou'd to prevail with _Victor_ to continue upon the Throne; but +finding he was resolv'd not to make her a Queen, she consented to his +Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour'd to become the Wife of a +Prince, who had worn a Crown. King _Victor_ consulted with his chief +Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis'd him not to leave the +Throne. His Son King _Charles_ conjur'd him to keep Possession of it. _I +protest to your Majesty_, said this Prince, _I never once indulged a Wish +to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject_. But +all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of _September_, 1730, +was fix'd for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons +in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the[26]Palace. +There the King appear'd without any Mark of Royalty, accompany'd by the +Prince of _Piedmont_, and declar'd to the Assembly, that he was resolv'd +to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted +them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had +taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son +_Charles_, Prince of _Piedmont_, for their King; and desir'd them to be as +Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of +Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis _del Borgo_, +Secretary of State, and _Charles_ was recogniz'd for King. + +After the Ceremony was over, King _Victor_, with the Marchioness of _St. +Sebastian_, whom he had married, on Condition[27] that she shou'd wear no +other Title, set out for _Chamberry_, which he had chose for the Place of +his Retirement. But scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of +having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved +as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King +_Victor_ resign'd, he advis'd his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility +and Gentry to be survey'd, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to +the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho' it had a View to the Increase of +the King's Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason, +_Charles_ when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in +Execution. _Victor_ being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son, +rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and +perceiving that _Charles_ was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained +a Thought of reascending the Throne[28]. To this End, he secretly felt the +Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to _Charles_: +Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he +knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou'd also be his Friends; +for most of the Officers having been preferr'd by him, he did not doubt +but they were still attach'd to him, and he flatter'd himself with their +Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal _Rhebinder_, in +general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting. +This General, who was Commander in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of +what Consequence it was to deprive King _Victor_ of the least Hopes of +reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged +to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: 'Your Majesty, _said the +Marshal in his Letter_, has made me all that I am. I am under no +Obligation to King _Charles_; but my Engagements to your Majesty are +inexpressible; tho' of all the Favours which you have heap'd upon me, the +Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave +therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have +acquir'd by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I +shou'd forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the +King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I +shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last +Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready +to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person, +being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me, +but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your +Actions, _&c._' + +This Answer was not sufficient to cool King _Victor_'s Ambition to resume +the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal _de Rhebinder_, and +to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify'd, +that he knew how to punish those that refus'd to obey him. All these +Letters were carried to King _Charles_, who being concerned to see his +Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou'd you have me +do? _He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to +Providence._ + +The King was still in Hopes, that he shou'd be able to make _Victor_ easy, +and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he +went with his Queen to _Evian_, and from thence to _Chamberry_, where +_Charles_ paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper. +The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he +took leave of _Victor_, he paid a Visit to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, with +whom he had a long Conference. He desir'd this Lady to pacify King +_Victor_, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with +State Affairs. _He hath made me King_, said _Charles, and King I will be. +You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not +like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that +he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal_. They say +_Charles_ dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin'd to yield +his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis'd great +Advantages to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, not only for herself, but for the +Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady +promis'd the King all that he desir'd, but kept her Word very ill; for her +Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King _Victor_ every Day more and +more uneasy. + +_Victor_ after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would +reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be +nearer TURIN. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of +_Chamberry_ was bad for his Health, and desir'd him to let him go and +reside at the Castle of _Montcallier_. _Charles_ was return'd to TURIN +when he receiv'd this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he +understood that the King his Father, and Madame _de St. Sebastian_, were +already come to _Montcallier_. He was not at all sorry for it, because, +as he knew King _Victor_'s Designs, he cou'd better observe his Motions, +when so near him: And King _Victor_, on his Part, was glad that he was at +_Montcallier_, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of TURIN might give him a +better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding +Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and +gave such publick[29] Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that +_Charles_'s Ministers[30], fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to +his Assistance, unanimously advis'd the King to confine him. The young +Prince exclaim'd several times against this Proposition. _What!_ said he, +_make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that_: And indeed, +it was a long time ere he cou'd agree to it; but at length he was +prevail'd on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho', when he +sign'd the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that +the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it. + +The Count _de la Perouse_, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged +with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King _Victor_, and had a +Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of +TURIN, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking. +They all march'd out at the same Hour from their Quarters, without +knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o'Clock next Morning they all +came to the Place appointed at _Montcallier_. The Count _de la Perouse_, +attended by the Chevalier _de Solare_, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards, +at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw'd to +their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led +to King _Victor_'s Apartment, while the Marquis _d'Ormea_, Secretary of +State, who carry'd the Order sign'd by King _Charles_, secur'd the +Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. _de la Perouse_, +finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page +in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way +farther, and forc'd open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where +the King was a-bed with Madame _de St. Sebastian_. This Lady, hearing a +Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown, +ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm'd Men, she cry'd out, _Oh! Sir, +we are betray'd!_ They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers +carry'd her into the next Chamber, where they caus'd her to be dress'd, +and afterwards conducted her to _Ceve_, a Fortress of _Piedmont_. + +Neither the Outcry of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, nor all the Noise that +was made, had awak'd King _Victor_, who always slept sound. The Chevalier +_de Solare_ seiz'd the King's Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and +the Count _de la Perouse_ went to the Bed-side, and open'd the Curtains. +Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask'd what was the +Matter. The Count _de la Perouse_ said to him, That he had Orders from the +King to arrest him. _What King do you mean?_ said _Victor_: _'Tis I that +am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty +has been so_, reply'd the Count, _but you are so no longer; and since it +has pleas'd you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to +command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such +Obedience_. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten'd the Officers, +and refus'd to rise. The Chevalier _de Solare_ coming too near the Bed, +the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in +Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise, +the Officers lifted him. up, and dress'd him. The King was heard to say, +in the mean time, that he only wish'd to sit two Hours on the Throne, that +he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam'd the +principal Lords of the Court. + +As soon as he was dress'd, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him +down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard. +The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem'd surpriz'd at +it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent, +seem'd no less surpriz'd, when they saw their old King was to be carry'd +off a Prisoner. _What! Our King!_ said they softly to each other, _What +has he done? What is the Matter?_ The Count _de la Perouse_, fearing a +Mutiny, call'd out _Silence_, in the King's Name, _on Pain of Death_. The +old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he +had always valu'd above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected +him, and he wou'd have spoke to it; but no Time was allow'd him, and he +was oblig'd to go into the Coach. The Count _de la Perouse_, and the +Chevalier _de Solare_, ask'd his Leave to sit with him; but the King +answer'd, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode +by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and +conducted him to _Rivoli_. I had almost forgot to tell you, that when he +went from _Montcallier_, he ask'd for three Things; his Wife, his Papers, +and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain'd. + +The Day after he came to _Rivoli_, as they were clapping iron Bars, and +double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask'd the +Glazier what he was going to do! _I am going_, said the Man, _to put on +double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn't catch Cold this Winter_. +_How now, Varlet!_ said the King, _Do you think I shall spend all the +Winter here?_ _Ah! by my Faith_, reply'd the Glazier, _you will pass this +winter here, and I believe many more_. + +This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to +his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier _de +Solare_, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he +sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all +manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints[31]. + +In the whole Course of this Affair, 'tis fortunate for King _Charles_, +that not one of his Subjects has fail'd in his Allegiance to him; he has +not been oblig'd to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has +he caus'd above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King +_Victor_'s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately +set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored +between the father and the Son. + +They say, that Madame _de St. Sebastian_ is fallen into a deep Melancholy; +and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After +her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen +at Court. The young King missing him, ordered the Marquis _d'Ormea_, +Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to +Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he +did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever, +which Madame _de St. Sebastian_ had committed, and that he would take Care +of his Fortune. + +The _Piedmontese_ are charm'd with their new King, and indeed, he is a +Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane, +compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in +Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and +particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a +great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, 'tis only owing to the +Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible. + +The Queen[32] is of the Family of _Hesse Rhinfels_. She is tall and +slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very +fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and +ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is +the Mother of two lovely[33] Princes, and a Princess, and seems very +attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth. + +The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is +observed at the Court of _France_, The King and Queen always eat together, +and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The +Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the +Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to +attend her, who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a +Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the +young Princess of _Carignan_, and the Queen's youngest Sister, sitting on +Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen's Chair; and all +the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds +for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and +Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where +there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the +Marchioness _de Prie_, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the +_Netherlands_, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes +present. + +There's an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be +enjoy'd in all _Italy_ besides; and the _Piedmontese_ don't think +themselves _Italians_; so that I am often ask'd, Whether I came last from +_Italy_? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City +better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the _French_ Manners +with the _Italians_ is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live +well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very +civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal _de la Rhebinder_ is +particularly noted. This General is a Native of _Livonia_: He commanded +the Elector Palatine's Troops in _Italy_, and then went into the Service +of the Duke of _Savoy_, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a +foreign Regiment of Foot. King _Victor_ created him a Velt-Marshal, and he +is actually Commander in Chief of the King of _Sardinia_'s Troops. + +The Marquis _d'Ormea_ is the Chief or President of the Council, first +Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the +Confidence of King _Victor_. That Prince had sent him to _Rome_, where +the Marquis _d'Ormea_ obtained great Advantages of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. +for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices. +This Minister was recall'd in the first Year of the Pontificate of +_Clement_ XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that +his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King _Victor_'s Abdication he +returned to TURIN. King _Charles_ does nothing without him. He is a +Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his +Promises. I knew him at _Rome_, and have the Honour of seeing him here as +often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my +Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not +always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This +Minister has a Brother a[34]Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very +lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the +Steps of his Father. + +The Youth here don't seem to be so hair-brain'd as they are elsewhere: I +don't know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so +in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his +Children to the University here, than which I question whether there's a +better in _Europe_, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises, +as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed +in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which +the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the +other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow'd to go abroad +on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go +where they please, except to Houses of Gaming. + +The Out-parts of TURIN are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned +with a great many pretty _Cassines_ or Pleasure-Houses, which are only +separated by Meadows, that are constantly water'd by a Number of little +Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the _Esplanade_, between the City +and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very +pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the _Piedmontese_ +Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave +them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone. +I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at _Lyons_, if I don't stay at +_Chamberry_; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don't fail to write +to me at _Paris_, and believe me to be, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXVII. + + + _SIR_, _Lyons, March 2, 1732._ + +Tho' I had pass'd Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers'd _Savoy_, yet I +thought the Passage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily +glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put +together. + +From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pass'd by the Castle +of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there's an Avenue +from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell'd +thro' SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a +River form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as +it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which 'tis +built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which +King _Victor Amedeus_ caus'd to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_. +Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. 'Tis provided with a +good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been +built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his +Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have passed the +Mountains. + +LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more +disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their +Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other +Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by +four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me +upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to +Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope. + +At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I +thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain'd, and +other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to +receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable +Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this +Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends +may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their +greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow +fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the +Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time +People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country +People call _se faire ramasser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious +and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly +faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay'd a Week together at +_Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again +and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire ramasser_. + +LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is +oblig'd to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don't travel Post, +and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to +this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides +the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which +is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is +bury'd, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices: +There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a +Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which +the Horses were kill'd, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which +consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of +_Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho' he was not at +all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou'd +actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder'd +him. + +I pass'd thro' several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth +mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because 'tis the See of a +Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; 'tis a very antient +County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley +extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the +_Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_. + +CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must +expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet +the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; 'tis situate +on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompass'd +with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There's a +great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money'd Men; yet +they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The +Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People +good-natur'd and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good +Sort of People. They are accus'd of being too thrifty, but perhaps 'tis +more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig'd to +support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune, +he is forc'd to be a good Husband whether he will or no. + +At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high +Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I +saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not +Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but, +judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the +Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the +Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and +magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether +he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use +of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high +Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both +Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of +the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass'd, it +was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the +Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion. + +This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the +Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass'd +to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of +_France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here, +the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a +Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which +belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of +the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_ +by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore +the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_, +finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of +_France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St. +_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of +good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated +Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author +of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him +resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a +secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope +with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the +Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to +reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad +Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to +injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour +to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son +of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has +been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the +Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a +Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at +_Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this +City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd. + +LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to ++Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Saon_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_ +washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are +industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in +_France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They +endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but +they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop, +who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M. +_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the +XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in +Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its +Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the +_Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of +the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second +Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of +_Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the +Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de +Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter +Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those +hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_ +have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very +great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so +that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as +much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for +the Province, and for the City in particular. + +They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first +_Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of +_Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not +without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs, +and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops, +who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is +inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by +several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of +seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons +of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and +twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_, +for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their +Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom +King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is +known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this +Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been +Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevot des Marchands_ of the City of +_Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of +State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family +who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur +_de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_, +had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of +_Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as +Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of +_Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because +he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King +found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the +Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone +which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_. +The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one +would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was +applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next +Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's +(+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this, +the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal +Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the +Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by +the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded +by M. _de Rochebonne_. + +The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor +of the City, is the _Prevot des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for +any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as +strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd +to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an +Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at +last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The +Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I +imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us. + +The _Prevot des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when +he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think, +that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so +vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the +same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in +which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_. + +I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I +have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevot des Marchands_. I have been to +make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I +have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People +of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few Nobility. The +Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine +Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so +little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the +_Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as +to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me +very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and +the Bottle. + +The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the +best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if +they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one +of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a +Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago +was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste +wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this +superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the +Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An +Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better +employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron, +remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year, +that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer, +that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd +be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not +thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of +this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that +Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her +Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes +the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_. + +I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le +Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a +great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of +Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without +acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide +as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated; +and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same +Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the +Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on +Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription +than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great +deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_, +who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it +the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the +Original. + +There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of +Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and +magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in +Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the +Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great +Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXVIII. + + + _SIR_, _Paris, March 20, 1732._ + +For the sake of good Wine I preferr'd the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before +the great Road from _Lyons_ thro' _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv'd +for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos'd on, and +did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in +all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my +Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the +Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to +_Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I +happen'd to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very +amiable Gentlemen. We pass'd by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Principality +of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by +Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of +_Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render'd herself +famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the +Cannon to be fir'd from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who +never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her +wou'd never give her leave to marry[38]. 'Twas to reconcile the King to +her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a +Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed +there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned. + +After having pass'd _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and +Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that 'tis +possible to imagine. We din'd very much in Haste at a Village, and went +and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral +have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at +_Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and +whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to +see. + +CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear +to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the +Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew'd the +Apartment where the Duchess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the +Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit +which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers: +'Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of +making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall'd by any Princess +of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she +fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig'd to live in a miserable Castle, +with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend +her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this +Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey. + +From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pass'd thro' _Beaune_, and +along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my +Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to +be: 'Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no +great Appearance, tho' they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In +the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal +Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the +Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows, +which, if the Houses were higher, wou'd make a fine Sight. This Street +leads to the Place Royale, in which there's an Equestrian Statue of the +late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac'd on so high a Pedestal, that it even +raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which +moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses +are actually very low, and if they were to be carry'd higher, the Statue +would look as if it were imprison'd in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was +cast in _Paris_, and first carry'd by Water to _Auxerre_, where it +remain'd a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a +manner immoveable; but at last it was remov'd by Land Carriage to _Dijon_, +but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it +appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom. + +This Statue faces the _King's House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_, +Governor of the Province. 'Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc'd +Wings, but can only be reckon'd a very irregular Structure. I did not go +to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish'd, +and not worth the Trouble of a View. + +The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the +vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there +heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously +accommodated. + +_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late +Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was +very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government. + +The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really +neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above +civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their +Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know +what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him, +puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists +generally of Persons of Quality. + +The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_ +Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never +comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count _de +Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in +his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts. +Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and +I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a +more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to +which I was forc'd to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I +went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall +was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would +have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it +resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers. + +From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of +an Archbishop; and that's all I can say of it, because I only staid there +to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where +the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially +of Women, who all seem'd very much enrag'd. This was owing to a +Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify'd her +Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which +induc'd her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was +about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the +scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a +Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker's Wife, who was +old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband's +Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the +very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for +her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen'd just as +I arriv'd at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed +against the Baker's Wife, and hurry'd the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women +curs'd her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something +perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their +Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces. + +FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pass'd thro', is fourteen Leagues +from _Paris_. There's a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the +Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for +the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings +from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to +it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There's a great +Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent +for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the +cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus'd +her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be +assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters, +which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach'd him for his +Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy +Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in +vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an +Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose: +Indeed, rather than be oblig'd to manifest his Resentment, he chose to +keep a profound Silence; but tho' he dissembled it as much as possible, +_Christina_ perceiv'd, that she had staid too long at his Court, and +resolv'd to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died. + +But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant, +grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_ +XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry'd the Queen by Proxy, at +_Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a +League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of +the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview. +When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other, +they advanc'd a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp'd; when their +Majesties alighted, and walk'd to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen +came near to the King, she kneel'd down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet, +seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_ +rais'd her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her: +The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv'd them with +such a good-natur'd, modest Air, as prepossess'd the whole Court in her +Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself +on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac'd themselves +according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late +Duchess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ'd in +the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to +the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the +Duchess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_, +was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became +general. When they arriv'd at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by +the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen's Closet: There the King +talk'd; and after having stay'd about an Hour, he return'd to +_Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out +from thence. + +The next Morning, at Eight o'Clock, the Queen arriv'd at _Fontainebleau_, +without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey. +Being in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to +the Toilet; when she was dress'd, Word was brought to her, that the King +was arriv'd; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle +of Gold Brocade, trimm'd with _Spanish_ Point of Gold, the whole enrich'd +with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk'd the same +Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow'd immediately after him, +supported by the Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_: She was dress'd in a +Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and +the Tail of her Gown, were fac'd with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds; +and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the +Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and 'tis +certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very +grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn'd with a rich Suit of Hangings, of +blue Velvet, imbroider'd with Gold. The Elector of _Cologne_, the +Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, now Elector, the Duke _Ferdinand_, and the +Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_, were present _incognito_ at the +Ceremony. The Cardinal _de Rohan_ gave their Majesties the Nuptial +Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Mass, the +Duke of _Bourbon_, who perceiv'd it, gave her some Balm-water, by which +her Majesty found immediate Relief. + +After Mass was ended, they return'd in great Ceremony to the Queen's +Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and +Princesses din'd with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the +Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be +smother'd, and three-fourths of the People could not get in. + +When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang'd their Apparel, and took +an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal, +preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King's +Houshold, and follow'd by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses. +But 'tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent +than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their +Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new +Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted. + +When the King and Queen were return'd to the Palace, there was a +Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp'd with the Princesses of +the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their +Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the +Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir'd, +but really appear'd trifling to us _Germans_, who are accustom'd to see +Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that +surpasses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the +Rejoicings upon account of the King's Marriage. They say there were great +Illuminations and Bonfires also at _Paris_; but as I was at +_Fontainebleau_, I did not see them. 'Tis certain tho', that how much +soever the _French_ were pleas'd with the Marriage of their King, they +were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread +cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. 'Tis no +laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression, +and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description +of _Fontainebleau_. + +This Royal Palace is accompanied with a fine Park, which, tho' not near so +much adorned as the Park of _Versailles_, has remarkable Beauties, not to +be met with in that. The great Canal is superb, and, generally speaking, +the Palace of _Fontainebleau_, with all that environs it, has much more of +the Air of a Royal Palace, than _Versailles_ and _Marly_. The Village or +Town of _Fontainebleau_, for I know not which to call it, is very well +built. Most of the Lords have great Houses here, where they put their +Equipages and Domesticks; it being the Custom at the Court of _France_, +for every Lord that belongs to the Court to be lodg'd in the King's +Palace; and the _French_ are so infatuated with this Practice, that a +Nobleman had rather be lodg'd in a Manger at Court, than in an Apartment +ever so commodious and magnificent, in his House at _Versailles_ and +_Fontainebleau_. + +The Road from _Fontainebleau_ to _Paris_ is pav'd all the Way. There are a +great many fine Houses on it, particularly PETITBOURG, belonging to the +Duke _d'Antin_, to whom it came by Succession, from his Mother, the +Marchioness _Montespan_. Very great Buildings have been erected there +within these few Years, which have the Appearance of Magnificence and +Grandeur; not to mention the rich Furniture, the Pleasures of the Park, +and several other Things, so ingeniously chose, and so beautifully +dispos'd, as are infinitely delightful. + +CHOISY, which belongs to the first Princess Dowager of _Conti_, Daughter +of _Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_, is, to my thinking, one +of the finest Houses in the Kingdom. 'Tis built intirely in the modern +Taste, and stands by the River Side. The Apartments are richly adorn'd. +The Garden which belongs to it is spacious, and several Alleys are cut +out in it, which yield very fine Walks, and render _Choisy_ an inchanting +Place. Were I to mention all the other fine Houses to you that are upon +the Road, I should never have done. If you consult the _Delices de la +France_, you will find a large Account of all those Houses, as well as of +their Names and Situation. For my part, my Head akes so much at this +Instant, that 'tis impossible for me to add any more: But in a few Days, +you shall hear farther from me; and then I will give you some Account of +_Paris_: In the meantime, believe me to be always Yours intirely, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XXXIX. + + + _SIR_, _Paris, April 1, 1732._ + +Don't imagine, that I am going to give you an exact Description of the +City of PARIS; for that would be an Undertaking to as little Purpose, as +it is beyond my Ability. PARIS has been so fully describ'd, and is so much +talk'd of, that most People know what Sort of Place it is, though they +have never seen it. Several Authors are so divided about the Antiquity of +PARIS, that I can say nothing positive to you upon this Head. _Caesar_, in +his Commentaries, speaks very much in its Favour, and says, that in his +Time, this City was call'd _Lutetia_. The Learned differ also about the +Origin of this[41]Name; but I shall leave them to dispute this Matter as +long as they please, and assure them, that I am not concerned in their +Quarrel. + +According to Father _Daniel_, PARIS was the Capital City of _France_, in +the Reign of _Clovis_, about the Year 507. But even then, PARIS was a +Place of very little Consequence; and, if it be duly consider'd, could not +be rank'd among the great Towns, before the Reign of _Philip Augustus_; +That Prince made it his Endeavour to embellish it, and added Buildings to +it, which at that Time were reckon'd very magnificent. Since his Reign, +PARIS has always been the Seat of the Kings, and has been continually +increasing in Grandeur and Beauty. But none of its Kings has contributed +so much to the Magnificence of PARIS, as the Prince who least resided in +it, I mean _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd such Structures to be rais'd in it, as +are worthy of the greatest Monarch in the World. Of some of these Works, I +may hereafter give you a more particular Account. + +The _French_ pretend, that no City in _Europe_ contains so many +Inhabitants as PARIS; but the _English_ say, the most populous is +_London_; yet, without the least Hesitation, I determine it for the latter +of the two Rivals. My Reason for it is this: At PARIS, eighteen or twenty +thousand People die every Year, and at _London_ twenty-three or +twenty-four thousand; tho' I don't dispute, but PARIS seems more populous: +For in the latter, every body is to be seen in the Streets, either on Foot +or in Coaches; whereas at _London_, Passengers are continually going up +and down the _Thames_; which River is seldom without carrying forty or +fifty thousand People, who, if diffus'd in the Streets, would make them +look fuller of People than those of PARIS. Besides, what makes the Capital +of _France_ appear to be more populous, is, that it has more Coaches and +Carts; whereas at _London_, one always sees Goods going up or down the +River; which is the Reason, that Carts are not so much in Use there: And +most of the Ladies, instead of Coaches, ride in Sedans. But a _Frenchman_ +will tell me, you shall see five or six Families in one House at PARIS; +whereas at _London_, they are seldom two. To this I shall answer, that +'tis true, there are more Lodgers in the Houses of PARIS; but this stands +for nothing, and only proves, that there are more Houses at _London_. At +PARIS, there are many Hotels, or great Houses, Convents, large Gardens, +public Squares, Quays, and a River that runs through the Middle; all which +takes up a great deal of Ground; and in several of the Suburbs, without +which PARIS itself is but a little Place, there are intire Marshes. But at +_London_,'tis quite otherwise, such Hotels are uncommon there, and few +Houses there have Courts to them. They are all very much pent up, and many +a House at _London_ is not so big as the Halls in a great many of the +Hotels at PARIS. + +But what matters it, whether _London_ is bigger or less than PARIS? I +shall now speak of the latter, not as the biggest, but as the most +beautiful City in _Europe_. 'Tis reckon'd, there are in PARIS nine +hundred Streets, with above twenty thousand Houses, of which four thousand +have great Gates, and Courts to turn Coaches in. The Number of Inhabitants +amounts to above eighty thousand; in which must be reckon'd one hundred +and fifty thousand Domestics. There are at least twenty thousand Coaches, +and near one hundred and twenty thousand Horses for Carriages of all +Sorts, of which, one Year with another, ten thousand die. In fine, the +very Expence of the Lanthorns, which are lighted nine Months in the Year, +is computed at two hundred thousand Crowns at least. The common Revenues +which the City of PARIS produces, are said to amount at least to +twenty-eight Millions of Livres; a Sum, which, I believe, is not rais'd by +some Kingdoms. + +PARIS enjoys all the Prerogatives that can be enjoy'd by the Capital of a +powerful Kingdom. This City has not only the Reputation of being the +Residence of Kings, but is the Seat of an Archbishop, a Parliament, an +University, an Intendant, a Governor, and of all the Sovereign Courts in +the Government. Its Metropolitan Church, which was heretofore no more than +the See of a Bishop, Suffragan to the Archbishop of _Sens_, is dedicated +to the Virgin _Mary_. St. _Denys_, who liv'd in the first Ages of +Christianity, is own'd to be its Founder, or at least its first Bishop. +Its first Archbishop was _Francis de Gondy_, who obtain'd that Dignity by +a Bull of Pope _Gregory_ XV. in 1622. since which Time there have been +seven Archbishops. Whoever is the Archbishop, has the Title of Duke of St. +_Cloud_, and in that Quality is both Duke and Peer of _France_. The +present Archbishop's Name is _N. N. de Vintimille_ of the Counts _du Luc_. +He succeeded _Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal _de Noailles_, and finds his Diocese +as disobedient to his Mandates, as it was to those of his Predecessor. +The good Prelate does all he can, to bring back his[42]stray'd Sheep; but +it seems as if most of the _Parisians_ know not what they would be at; and +indeed the greatest Number dispute about Matters, which they don't +understand. I find the Talk of all PARIS engross'd by two grand Subjects; +I mean grand for the _Parisians_, and, if I may venture to say it, for the +_French_ in general: For, to be plain, 'tis owing to the Want of something +else to talk of during a long Peace, that they busy themselves very +seriously about Things, which at other Times they would think unworthy of +their Attention. The one is the Affair of Father _Girard_ and _la +Cadiere_; the other, the pretended Miracles of the Abbe _Paris_. There is +nothing so base, with which Knavery and a furious Zeal can inspire a +Party, but what has been said and written on these Subjects. The Enemies +of the _Jesuits_ have[43]invented, that Father _John Baptist Girard_, a +Native of _Dole_ in _Franche Comte_, debauch'd one _la Cadiere_, who came +to him for Confession; they prevail'd on the young Woman to accuse him of +Crimes, the very Idea of which is shocking, and which the most resolute +Villain would not dare perhaps to be guilty of, much less Father _Girard_; +who, till accus'd of this Wickedness, had always _pass'd_ for an honest +Man, whose Conduct and Morals had been edifying in Places where he had +been, and particularly at _Toulon_, where nevertheless he is said to have +committed the most horrid Enormities. But _la Cadiere_ has recanted; and +the Parlement of _Aix_, before whom the Cause was pleaded, has declar'd +Father _Girard_ innocent. Yet the _Jansenists_ exclaim, and wish that the +King would cause the Members of that Parlement to be hang'd up, because +they could not in Conscience bring in Father _Girard_ guilty. + +The following _Epigram_ is lately publish'd upon that Parlement: + + _Pour avoir immole le Fils du Tout-Puissant + +Pilate+ moins que vous nous parut detestable; + Il ne recut point d'or pour punir l'Innocent, + Mais vous en recevez pour sauver le coupable._ + + _i. e._ + +_Pilate_, tho' he sacrific'd the Son of the Almighty, is even less +detestable in our Eyes than you; for he receiv'd no Gold to punish the +Innocent, but you take it to save the Guilty. + + Or thus: + + _Of Judges that in Judgment sit, + Whether incurs most Banns, + He that for Gold doth Vice acquit, + Or Virtue +gratis+ damns?_ + + _+Pilate+, who sacrific'd the Son + Of the Almighty Lord, + Because no Golden Bribe he won, + Is less than you abhorr'd._ + +Father _Girard_'s Adventure calls to my Mind a great Scandal of this +Nature, that happen'd in the fourth Century, on Occasion of a Lady's +Confession to a Deacon; which obliged the Patriarch _Nectarius_ to abolish +Auricular Confession throughout the _East_; as may be seen in the fourth +Tome of _Fleuri_'s _Ecclesiastical History_. This Author, in his Sixteenth +Tome, says, that in the twelfth Century there were Abbesses in _Spain_, +who preach'd, gave Blessings, and confessed Persons of both Sexes. If this +Practice was re-establish'd, there would be no Room to fear such Disorders +and Scandals as have happen'd in _Provence_. + +The second Topic, which takes up a great deal of the _Parisians_ +Conversation, is the pretended Miracles of the Sieur _Paris_, to whose +Tomb People flock as much as they could be suppos'd to do to the _Holy +Sepulchre_ itself. Curiosity drew me thither as well as others; and I +found such a vast Crowd of People, that 'twas with much ado I could get to +the Stone which covers the Saint of the Populace. While I was looking at +this Tombstone, I heard 'em cry behind, _Stand by, make Room there_; so +that I thought some Prince of the Blood was coming; but 'twas no more than +a mean-looking Fellow, who, with a very contrite Air, went and stretch'd +himself on the Tomb; where he had not lain many Moments, but I saw him +turn up the Whites of his Eyes, grind his Teeth, foam at the Mouth, and +twist his Body into such Postures, that he look'd more like one that had +the Devil in him, than the Favourite of a Saint. These Agitations lasted +as long as the Man had any Strength; after which he was carry'd off, and +I assure you, that when he was taken from the Tomb, he had a much more +sickly Look than when he came to it. Nevertheless the People bawl'd out, +_A Miracle!_ and I even heard it said, _Who can doubt one Moment, after so +manifest a Cure as this, that +Paris+ is a Saint!_ + +Such Miracles, as this that I have now related to you, are work'd here +every Day: One can't set a Foot into a House, without being entertain'd +with some new Story plac'd to the Accompt of the Abbe _Paris_; yet I +protest, that not one single Miracle has been prov'd: and M. _Herault_, +the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whom all these Miracles are +reported, said, in my Hearing, that there was not one of them true; that +'twas a palpable Delusion; and that 'twas only tolerated, the better to +trace it up to its Source, and to undeceive the Populace; which, I +believe, will be no easy Matter, they are so much prepossess'd in Favour +of their Saint. The only Way would be for the Pope to canonise the Sieur +_Paris_, and then I am persuaded, that all the Devotees of this new Saint +wou'd abandon him, rather than be in the Holy Father's Mess. But here I +leave both Father _Girard_ and the Abbe _Paris_, though perhaps I shall +find an Opportunity of discovering all that I may hear of them to you, +when I think it worthy of your Regard; but I shall be far from troubling +you with every impertinent Tale that is reread about them; for I verily +believe, that all the Songs and Verses that are made upon them wou'd form +several Volumes: And it must be expected this Humour will last, till +something new starts up to drown both these Subjects of present +Conversation. I own to you, that I am very much in Pain to think what the +_French_ can have to amuse them after this is over; for their Genius is +such, that it must have something to work upon, tho' 'tis happy for them +that a mere Nothing suffices, and that such Nothing is always treated by +them as a serious Affair, and proves to them an inexhaustible Fund of +Something. + +You ask me, how I employ my Time here? which is a Question that is not +very soon answer'd. My Amusements are of such various Kinds, that, to be +plain with you, I find myself at a loss to account for them. I should +often be very much puzzled to prove an _alibi_ of two Days. This Country +is my Centre, and PARIS is to me the Spring of Youth. Never was any +Reflection more mortifying to me, than the Thought that I am not in a +Condition to fix my Habitation here; for tho' I find Faults in the +_French_, as well as in all other Nations, yet I acknowledge they have a +thousand good Qualities; and I think them much more amiable at home than +they are abroad, where, be a Man ever so much prepossess'd in their Favour +upon other Accounts, he is surfeited with their eternal Criticisms, and to +hear them incessantly remarking, _They don't do so at +Paris+. You don't +see this in +France+_. Here they are polite, good-natur'd, humane, civil +and engaging; and a Foreigner, who can bring himself ever so little into +their Way of Thinking, Acting, and Speaking, will always be sorry to leave +them. + +But I am not about giving you the Character of the _French_; what I am now +to acquaint you with is, how I live with them. In a very irregular Course +of Life, I aim at a certain Regularity: I rise very late, because I don't +go to Bed till Two or Three o'Clock in the Morning: When I am dress'd, I +go to some Cabinet of Curiosities, some Library, or to some Structure or +other, which, tho' I have seen perhaps an hundred times, I revisit with +Pleasure, because I always find some new Beauty in it. Such are the Hotel +or Hospital of the _Invalids_, founded and built by _Lewis_ XIV. _Val de +Grace_, the Church which is the Repositary of the Hearts and Bowels of the +Kings and Princes of the Royal Family, and was founded by _Anne_ of +_Austria_, Mother to _Lewis_ XIV. the Choir of _Notre Dame_, adorn'd with +Marble and Brass by _Lewis_ XIV. to fulfill a Vow made by King _Lewis_ +XIII. his Father; the _Louvre_, with all the Beauties it contains; and, in +fine, a Number of other stately Fabrics, which I don't mention or describe +to you, because a thousand Authors have already given a better Account of +them, than I am able to do. After having thus saunter'd away two or three +Hours, I return home to Dinner; for I rarely dine abroad: When I have +din'd, if I am alone, I read for an Hour or two; after which I go out, +either to make Visits, or else to take the Air. I often go to their Plays, +not only because I have a Taste that way, but to avoid Gaming; for you +can't go into a House, but they bring out the Cards. After the Comedy is +over, which I am forc'd, whether I will or not, to prefer to the Opera, I +go to some House, where there's no saying nay, but I must make one at +Quadrille, to ease me of my Money; for I know not what 'tis to win. I am +entertain'd with a good Supper, and then I join in a second Party at +Quadrille, and sometimes in a third; and go home at three o'Clock in the +Morning, with an empty Pocket. + +This Itch for Gaming, which has infected the Generality of the _French_, +is look'd upon as one of the Plagues of the Nation. I can't imagine how +'tis possible for People, who can scarce stay a Quarter of an Hour in one +Place, but are generally restless where-ever they are, to sit five or six +Hours together in cutting and shuffling the Cards. 'Tis however a +necessary Evil, especially for a Foreigner, who must otherwise make a very +silly Figure, till he is quite initiated in the Customs of the Country. +The Ladies say of a Man who does not play, that he is a useless Piece of +Lumber; and the most flaming Lovers cease to make Love, as soon as Cards +are brought upon the Carpet. + +There are some Houses however, where this Passion for Gaming is not quite +so prevalent; 'tis said too, that the Lawyers Houses are not so liable to +the Contagion; but I own, I am not conversant enough with them to know the +Difference. 'Tis certain, that at Court they play deeper than any-where, +and very many of the Nobility have impair'd their Fortunes, for the sake +of having the Honour to be one of a Party with the King. His Majesty +commonly plays at Lansquenet; the Party consists of twelve Cutters, who +set a _Lewis d'Or_ upon the Card. The King, and the principal Gamesters, +as the Count _de Tholouse_, the Duke _d'Antin_, the Duke _de Grammont_, +and the like, set two, and sometimes four _Lewis d'Ors_ upon a Stake. The +King is reckon'd to have the best Luck of all that play in the Queen's +Apartment: Any body that is well dress'd is admitted to make one of the +Company, which forms a great Court, tho' a mix'd Assembly. All the Ladies +sit round the Gaming-table, and the Men stand. The _French_ say, that +Gaming sets every body upon a Level. There's one _S. Remi_, who had been a +Lacquey first to the Marshal _d'Estree_'s Lady, and then to the Duke of +_Bourbon_, who preferr'd him to be his _Valet de Chambre_, and at the +Queen's Arrival gave him a Post in her Majesty's Houshold, which he held +at the same time that he officiated as the Duke's _Valet de Chambre_: I +have seen this Man raise or fall the Mirth of the King's Company at +Pleasure; 'tis true, he does not cut; but he is at every Card, and makes +very good Pastime. At _Fontainebleau_, I heard him one Day bet the King +twenty _Lewis d'Ors_, upon his own Card against his Majesty's. The King +answer'd coolly, _No, Marquis_; which is a Nickname that his Majefty has +given him, and may nevertheless be transmitted to the Posterity of this +_S. Remi_, who is moreover Fop enough to be a Marquis. + +This Medley of People at Play has been the Custom in _France_ at all +times. I remember to have heard the late Mother of the Regent say, That +when she went upon a time from _Versailles_, where she resided with the +King, to see her Husband, _Lewis_ XIV's Brother, who was gone to spend a +few Days at St. _Cloud_, she found him playing at Lansquenet with a dozen +Cutters, of whom she knew but two; and when the Game was out, she ask'd +her Husband, who the People were that he had been playing with: _They are +very honest Fellows_, reply'd the Prince, _good substantial Tradesmen of ++Paris+, who play well, and for a great deal of Money_. The old Lady gave +us moreover to understand, that she had not been at that time long in +_France_, and that she was so vex'd to find her Husband in such Company, +that she cou'd not forbear to upbraid him for it; but her Husband turn'd +it all off with a Laugh, and made her Answer, _That she had still a Spice +of the +German+ Haughtiness, but that it would wear off in Time_. + +'Tis certain however, that this Liberty, with which all Sorts of People +are indulg'd, of coming in for a Game and away, renders them fawcy. That +noted Comedian _Baron_, the greatest Coxcomb of all Men living before the +_Quinaults_, was one Day at the House of the Prince _de Conti_, the same +that had been chose King of _Poland_, where they were playing at +Lansquenet. _Baron_, pulling his Purse out with a careless Air, said to +the Prince, _Ten Lewis D'Ors upon the Knave, +M. de Conti+. Done, ++Britannicus+_, said the Prince _de Conti_, who knew that _Baron_ had +been just acting that Part in a Play. It is certain, that at many of the +Womens Houses, the Gamesters are as much pamper'd as a Father Confessor is +by his Female Votary. A greet many Houses subsist here by the Emoluments +of Gaming, where, were it not for the Money arising from their Cards, +their Suppers would be very light, and many that now ride wou'd go on +Foot. The Duke _de Gevres_, Governor of _Paris_, and the Prince _de +Carignan_, who have a Grant for licensing all manner of Gaming, have +farm'd it out, and get 120,000 Livres a-piece by it clear Money; which one +shall hardly find in any City in the World. + +This Gaming puts me in mind of a Lottery they have here every Month, which +is a Sort of Game too, where the Banker is the greatest Gainer. These +Lotteries have been set on foot by the Parson of the Parish of St. +_Sulpice_, to help build his Church, and twenty Sols is the Price of each +Ticket; but they prove the utter Undoing of many a Lacquey and +Maid-Servant; which made a Friend of mine say, that the Parson of St. +_Sulpice_, out of Gratitude to the poor Devils, for burying their Wages in +his Lottery, could do no less, when they die, than bury their Carcases for +nothing. This Lottery is worth to the Parson about 20,000 Livres a Month, +besides the Sums he gets from the pious Contributions of several Persons +zealous for the House of God: Nevertheless these Works go on so slowly, +that the Parson's Trowel is not like to be laid aside yet-a-while, tho', +if his Church be ever finished, 'twill be the greatest and the finest in +the Kingdom; for all the new Works are design'd by _Giles Maria Oppenord_, +the Duke of _Orleans_'s chief Architect, and one of the most skilful of +his Profession in _France_. + +The Parsonage of St. _Sulpice_ is the most considerable, not only of +_Paris_, but perhaps of _Europe_; for it brings in the Parson as much as +some good Dioceses do their Bishops. The Right of Presentation to it is in +the Abbat and Friers of the Abbey of St. _Germain_. The present Incumbent +is M. _Languet de Gergy_, who has one Brother that is Bishop of +_Soissons_[44], and another now an Ambassador at _Venice_[45]. The +Vigilance both of the Pastor, and of the Priests whom he employs for +administring the Sacraments, cannot but be commended: The latter form a +numerous Society, attend their Function with Application, and Divine +Service is perform'd in the Church with very great Edification. The +Society, and several Seminaries join'd to it, form together the most +numerous Body of Clergy in all the Kingdom. The Seminary of St. _Sulpice_ +is one of the most frequented, because the Ecclesiastical Discipline is +there taught and practis'd with Care; perhaps too, because Subjects are +often taken from thence for the chief Dignities of the Church. Nothing is +more edifying than to see the Procession of this Parish upon the Day of +_Corpus Christi_, when there's a numerous Appearance of the Clergy in +magnificent Copes: The Canopy, under which the Holy Sacrament is carry'd, +is extraordinary rich. Twenty-four young Clergymen go before the Holy +Sacrament, and twelve always walk backward, perfuming the Host, as they +go, with Censers of Silver. There is not a Procession in the Kingdom that +is made with more Dignity and Order[46]. With your Favour, I will conclude +this Letter with the bare Mention of this Sacred Ceremony. As I propose +to go to-morrow to _Versailles_, I shall send you what Observations I make +there. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XL. + + + _SIR_, _Versailles, April 15, 1732._ + +I have been now just ten Days at _Versailles_, where I have had the Honour +of greeting the King and Queen, and all the Royal Family. I perceiv'd the +King since his Marriage is grown very fat, but he is still one of the +finest Princes in _Europe_. It may be said of _Lewis_ XV. that he is a +Prince born without Vice, and free from that Haughtiness, which is +commonly attach'd to Royalty: He is familiar with his Courtiers, reserv'd +to Persons that are unknown to him, and particularly to Ambassadors, and +more secret and circumspect than Persons of his Age. He has the Morals, +Behaviour, and Sentiments of a good Man, and from thence _France_ may +expect his Reign will be gentle and peaceful. It appears, as if _Lewis_ +XV. will be content with the Government of one of the most powerful +Monarchies of the World, and that he will not be inclin'd to disturb +_Europe_, for the sake of conquering a Town or a Province. He has been +educated in such Sentiments of Justice, that his Neighbours ought not to +be afraid of him, since God has undoubtedly chose him to be one of the +Arbitrators of _Europe_, in order for the Preservation, and not for the +Destruction of Equity: _Lewis_ the _Pacific_ and the _Debonaire_ will be +his distinguishing Titles: Must not these be dearer to his Subjects, than +the bloody Title of _Lewis_ the _Conqueror_? And may he not be great, and +at the same time a Lover of Peace? Hitherto the King seems to follow the +Plans of Government chalk'd out by the late Duke of _Burgundy_, his +Father, whose Wisdom is still rever'd by _France_. God grant that he may +always take them for his Models, and that his Reign may be long, and end +as glorious as it begun! + +I never cast my Eyes upon _Lewis_ XV. without admiring the Providence +which has preserv'd him, contrary to the People's Expectation. I have had +the Honour to see him Duke of _Anjou_, his Brother, the Duke of +_Bretagne_, being then alive. I have seen him the Dauphin of _France_, and +at length I have seen him on the Throne: He had at one time a pale +Complexion, which did not promise long Life. What Diseases has he not +labour'd under! yet he now enjoys a perfect State of Health, and the +Crown, which was so likely to devolve to collateral Branches, is +establish'd upon the Head of this young Prince, and like to descend to his +own Posterity. In fine, a King of _France_, Father of five Children living +before he is twenty Years of Age, is such a Phaenomenon as is hardly to be +parallell'd in antient or modern History, and 'tis in my Opinion more +extraordinary even than the advanc'd Age, and the long Reign of his +Great-Grandfather. + +The Queen is a Princess of exemplary Virtue, whose sole Application is to +discharge her Duties to God, the King, and her Children: She is extremely +gracious and civil, and has a great Happiness of expressing herself in the +_French_, _German_, and _Polish_ Languages: She had formerly a great Taste +for Music, and is now fond of Reading; but being entirely conformable to +her Husband's Sentiments, she takes no manner of Share in the Government: +She loves no Pageantry nor Ceremony, and the Rank of being the first Queen +in the World seems to have no other Effect upon her, than to render her +Virtues more venerable and conspicuous. + +As for the Children of _France_, they are as yet too young to be +characteris'd. Mean time I assure you, 'tis a fine Sight to see them going +to the Queen's Apartment, or running along the Gallery, with at least +forty Attendants in their Train, including the Ladies and Chambermaids. +The Person intrusted with the Care of the Education of the Children of +_France_ is the Duchess _de Ventadour_; but as she is very far advanced in +Years, and not able to be with them every-where, the Duchess of _Tallard_, +her Grand-daughter, is join'd with her in the Commission. This Lady is the +Daughter of the Prince _de Rohan_, Brother to the Cardinal: The Choice +which has been made of her to succeed the Duchess of _Ventadour_, has been +applauded by the whole Court; and in short, there are few Ladies that have +a more noble Carriage, more Politeness, and sublimer Sentiments: And 'tis +very remarkable, that since the Birth of the Dauphin, _Lewis_ XIVth's only +Son, the Mother, the Daughter, and the Grand-daughter have always been +trusted with the Education of the Children of _France_. + +Her Royal Highness, the Widow of the Regent, who is Daughter to _Lewis_ +XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_, is the first in Rank at Court, and she is +the only Princess that has a Right to sit at Table with their Majesties, +when they dine in State; but 'tis a Prerogative that she does not often +make use of, because she has such a Dislike to Dress, that she appears +little at Court; and when she comes to the King or Queen, 'tis in private: +She commonly resides at _Paris_, or at _Bagnolet_[47]: She is the only +Princess of the Kingdom that has Guards, and enjoys the Honours of a +Daughter of _France_. King _Lewis_ XIV. granted all these great +Distinctions to the late Duke of _Orleans_, in Favour of this Marriage, to +which that Prince agreed against the Consent of his late Father, and the +express Prohibition of his Mother; who was so exasperated against her Son, +for not resisting _Lewis_ XIVth's Will and Pleasure, that she lifted up +her Hand against him, when he told her that he was just marry'd, would not +see her Daughter-in-law for a long time, and never could endure the +Thoughts of the Match, till she saw her Grand-daughter marry'd to the Duke +of _Berry_. Since that time, she has not been so strongly prejudic'd +against her, but acknowledges her Royal Highness's Virtues, and always +kept a good Correspondence with her. This Princess lives very retir'd in +the Midst of the Court, and is very much employ'd in Works of Piety. + +Her Son, the Duke of _Orleans_, is a Prince of exemplary Devotion, being +almost continually at Prayer, or performing Works of Charity: He made two +or three Attempts to retire from the World, but the King thinking his +Presence necessary in his Council, would not consent to it. His most +serene Highness is the first Prince of the Blood, and Governor of +_Dauphiny_; and he was once Colonel and Captain General of the _French_ +Infantry, but he resign'd that Post some Years ago. This Prince marry'd +the Princess of _Baden_, by whom he has a Son styl'd Duke of _Chartres_, a +hopeful young Prince, who is educated at St. _Cloud_, remote from the +Grandeur and Hurry of the Court. + +The Duke of _Orleans_ has also four Sisters in the Kingdom, the eldest of +whom is the Abbess _de Chelles_, who was formerly styl'd Mademoiselle _de +Chartres_. This Princess, in spite of all the Persuasions of the late +Regent and the Duchess, who did their utmost to divert her from it, took +the Habit of a Nun, tho' she was one of the most amiable Princesses in +_Europe_, and might have made a great Prince happy. + +The second Sister is the Queen of _Spain_, the Dowager of _Lewis_ I. whom +she marry'd when he was Prince of _Asturias_, before his Father resign'd +the Crown of _Spain_ to him; but the young King did not live long to enjoy +it, and after his Death, the young Queen Dowager having a Desire to return +to _France_, their Catholic Majesties consented to it, and the King of +_France_ allow'd her the Castle of _Vincennes_ to reside in, where for +some time she liv'd: She had not been there many Weeks, when she receiv'd +a Visit from the King, who said, before he went, that his Visit would be +short. _I am not very talkative_, said his Majesty, _and they say, that +the Queen of +Spain+ does not talk at all; so that I don't believe we +shall have much Conversation_: And indeed the Visit was very short. The +Queen receiv'd the King at the Step of the Coach, and the King taking her +by the Hand, led her into his Chamber, where two Arm-Chairs were plac'd +for them under a Canopy. The King seated himself on the Right Hand, and +after a few Words spoke by the Duke _de Bourbon_, and the Duke _de +Noailles_, who, as Captain of the Guards, stood behind the King's Chair, +his Majesty rose, and went away with the same Ceremonies as he came. Some +time after this, the Queen of _Spain_ went to visit the King, when her +Guards were plac'd in all the Posts of _Versailles_, the King's Guards +being order'd to make room for them. The King receiv'd the Queen as she +alighted from the Coach, and every thing pass'd with the same Formality as +at _Vincennes_. The Queen of _Spain_, after some Stay at the Castle of +_Vincennes_, went to live in those Apartments at _Luxembourg_, which had +been the Residence of her Sister the Duchess of _Berry_; but some time ago +she retir'd to a Convent, and her Family, which was at first exceeding +numerous, was very much reduc'd. If we except the vain Honours of Royalty, +she would have been far more happy, if she had never been a Queen; for +then she might have marry'd again; whereas now she must continue a Widow, +and pass the Prime of her Days in Solitude and Retirement. + +The third Sister of the Duke of _Orleans_ is Mademoiselle _de Beaujolois_, +who was design'd as a Match for the Infante, Don _Carlos_; but when the +Infanta of _Spain_ was sent back from _France_, return'd to this Kingdom +with the Queen, her Sister: She is one of the most beautiful and most +amiable Princesses upon Earth, worthy to reign, and worthy of the +Infante[48]. + +Mademoiselle _d'Orleans_[49], her Sister, is a very charming Princess, +with an exceeding graceful Air, and Behaviour fully answerable to her +Birth. + +Next to the Family of _Orleans_, the first in Rank is that of _Conde_, +which consists of three Princes, and six Princesses: The Duke _de Bourbon_ +is the chief, who is great Steward of the King's Houshold, and Governor of +_Burgundy_, His Highness lost one Eye in Hunting, by an unfortunate Shot +from the Duke of _Berry_: He was marry'd very young to Mademoiselle _de +Conti_ his Cousin, who died without Issue. He was also but young when he +made the Campaigns in _Germany_, in Company with his Brother-in-law the +Prince of _Conti_. After the Decease of _Lewis_ XIV. the Duke went to Law +with the legitimated Princes, and caus'd the Duke _de Maine_ to be +degraded from the Rank of Prince of the Blood, to which he had been +promoted by an Arret solemnly register'd in Parliament during the Life of +the late King. The Duke of _Bourbon_ demanded, as first Prince of the +Blood, whom he then represented, by reason of the tender Age of the Duke +of _Chartres_, now Duke of _Orleans_, to have the Superintendance of the +King's Education, to which Post the Duke _de Maine_ had been nominated by +the late King's last Will: He obtain'd his Demand, and the Duke _de Maine_ +retir'd to _Seaux_. The Duke _de Bourbon_ had after this a great Share in +the Affairs of the Regency, and the Duke of _Orleans_ took care to keep +him in good Humour. At the unexpected Death of the Regent, the Duke, being +then at _Versailles_, went to the King, and demanded the Post of Prime +Minister, vacant by the Death of his Royal Highness, and obtain'd it. The +late M. _de la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State, being perhaps a little too +forgetful of his Obligations to the Son of a Prince who had heap'd Favours +upon him, drew up the Patent instantly, and caus'd it to be sign'd by the +King, before the Duke of _Chartres_, who was at the Opera at _Paris_, +could hear the News of his Father's Death; so that tho' he went Post to +_Versailles_, and demanded the Office of First Minister, the Duke of +_Bourbon_ told him, that the King had dispos'd of it to himself. The Duke +was no sooner vested with the Authority of Prime Minister, than he made +great Alterations in the Government; but these are the Subject of History +rather than of a Letter. M. _le Blanc_, who had been Secretary at War, +and was the Darling of the Officers, was committed to the _Bastille_; and +M. _de Breteuil_, who had been formerly Master of the Requests, and +Intendant of _Tours_, succeeded him in that Office; which was the +Consequence of a Misunderstanding, or rather a Hatred, between two Ladies, +who were the Mistresses, the one of the Duke of _Bourbon_, the other of M. +_le Blanc_. All the Friends of the latter, among whom was M. the Count _de +Belle-Isle_, shared in his Disgrace. The four Brothers of the Name of +_Paris_ had the Management of the Finances, of which Brothers two had been +Soldiers in the Guards; but they had the Cunning to extricate themselves +from that melancholy State, and to render themselves necessary to the +Government during the Time of the Regency. M. _d'Argenson_ Keeper of the +Seals had been their Patron, and rais'd them upon the Ruins of Mr. _John +Law_, and his System. Whatever was done by these Brothers is foreign to my +Purpose: Their rapid Fortune drew Envy upon them, and they soon became the +Objects of the public Hatred. + +The most remarkable Transactions of the Duke's Administration, were the +sending back of the Infanta, and the Marriage of the King. The Duke, +foreseeing the Inconveniencies to which _France_ would be liable, if the +King should die without Issue, thought it best to prevent so fatal an +Accident, which it had not been possible for him to have done without +marrying the King. The Infanta of _Spain_ was a Child, and it would be at +least eight Years before they could hope for any Issue from her; whereas +by marrying the King to another speedily, there was a Chance of having a +Dauphin very soon, who would secure the Tranquillity of the Kingdom. His +most Serene Highness therefore propos'd this Affair to the Council, which +at first he found very much divided about it; for they were apprehensive +of the Resentment of the King of _Spain_, and the Duke himself was +heartily sorry, that he was under a Necessity of giving their Catholic +Majesties just Cause of Disgust for the sake of the public Good: The +Council being at last agreed, they pass'd a Resolution unanimously to send +back the Infanta. This was accordingly notified to the Court of _Spain_, +where News so unexpected was receiv'd with all the Indignation possible. +The Infanta was sent back. The Duchess of _Tallard_ had the Care of +conducting her to the _Spanish_ Frontier. All the Honours due to the +Daughter of a great King were paid to this Princess, and every thing that +could be thought of, was done to soften the Displeasure of their Catholic +Majesties for her Return. All _France_ murmur'd in secret at the Departure +of this Princess; for she had won the Hearts of all who had seen her, by a +Behaviour and a Genius so vastly above one of her Age, that they +prognosticated she would one Day be a great Queen. Not long after she was +sent away, the King was married to a Princess so happy in Childbearing, +that Heaven thereby seems to applaud what the Duke has done, and the +People, quite forgetting the Infanta, bless his Name. + +The King, after he had been married a few Months, thought it was not +convenient for a Prince of the Blood to have the Direction of his Affairs; +and therefore he displac'd the Duke of _Bourbon_ from the Post of Prime +Minister, and made the late Bishop of _Frejus_, now the Cardinal _de +Fleury_, the sole Depositary of his Authority. The Duke receiv'd Orders to +retire to _Chantilly_, a Seat he has near _Senlis_; and there his Friends +put it into his Head to marry a second Wife: Several Princesses were +propos'd to him, but he determin'd his Choice for _Eleonora_ of +_Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister of the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of +_Sardinia_[50]; and the Brother of this Princess, having a Proxy sent to +him from the Duke, married her at _Rotenbourg_, in Presence of the Count +_de Gasse_, whom the Duke had sent to assist in his Name at this Ceremony. +The young Duchess no sooner arriv'd in _France_, but her Beauty, and the +Charms both of her Person and Mind, made her admir'd by the whole Court, +of which she is now one of the principal Ornaments: She is belov'd and +respected by all Mankind, and every body pities her, that the Duke has not +all that Tenderness for her which she deserves, and which it were to be +wish'd he had for the Support of the _Conde_ Family, of which the two only +Princes remaining, _viz._ the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_, are +not married. + +The Count _de Charolois_ is tall, handsome, and well-set: His Entrance +upon the Stage of Action was much taken Notice of; for a Thirst after +Glory was the Passion of his Soul, as soon as he came to the Years of +Understanding. The War being kindled in _Hungary_, and Prince _Eugene_ of +_Savoy_ having gain'd a Victory near _Temiswar_, which reviv'd that Hero's +Reputation in _France_, the Count _de Charolois_ had a mind to learn the +Art of War under so great a Master, and to make the Campaign which +immediately follow'd that of _Temiswar_; but he did not dare to discover +his Intention, and fearing that he should not obtain the Consent, either +of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, the Duchess his Mother, or the Duke +his Father, he resolv'd to set out privately, being sure that he should be +applauded for his Undertaking, if he could be so happy as to put it in +Execution. He imparted his Design in Confidence to M. _de Billy_, one of +his Gentlemen, and to _Renault_ his first _Valet de Chambre_, and with +these two Attendants he set out from _Chantilly_ on Pretence of Hunting. +He travell'd five or six Post-Stages with the very Horses that belonged to +the Duke his Father; after which he left them to the Care of the +Post-master, and hir'd fresh Horses, with which he reach'd _Liege_; where +he rested some Days, and having provided himself with Linen, went to the +Court of the Elector of _Cologn_, whom he had known in _France_: His first +Visit at _Bonn_, was at the House of M. _de S. Maurice_, the Elector's +Prime Minister; but he did not find him at home. M. _de Billy_ thereupon +desir'd to speak with his Lady, and told her, that a certain Punctilio of +Honour had oblig'd him to come from _France_ with the young Gentleman in +his Company; but Madame _de S. Maurice_, not thinking he was a Prince of +the Blood, and taking the Count _de Charolois_ for some petty Officer, +gave him a very cold Reception: However, she sent for her Husband, who was +then attending the Elector's Person; and when the Count _de S. Maurice_ +came, he presently knew the Count _de Charolois_, paid him all due +Respects, and hasten'd to notify his Arrival to the Elector, who at first +was concern'd to hear it, because his Electoral Highness knew not but he +might disoblige the Court of _France_ by receiving the Count, who he +imagin'd had left the Kingdom upon some Disgust. Nevertheless, after +reflecting with himself, that whatever the Count _de Charolois_ might have +done, the Court of _France_ could not be angry with him for paying a +Regard to his Quality as Prince of the Blood, he sent to invite him to his +Palace. The Count went thither accordingly, by the Name of the Count _de +Dammartin_, which he always travell'd With as long as he was absent from +the Kingdom. The Elector receiv'd him With all the Marks of the highest +Esteem, kept him several Days at his Court, and then furnish'd him with +Money for his Journey to _Munich_; where he no sooner arriv'd, but he +wrote to the Duke his Father to send him Remittances, and the necessary +Equipages for the Campaign which he was then going to make. + +Tho' the Count _de Charolois_ did not find the Elector of _Bavaria_ at +_Munich_, yet he was as well receiv'd as if he had been there; and the +Electress, tho' he had not been to see her, no sooner heard of his +Arrival, but she order'd all due Honours to be paid to him. When the +Elector return'd to _Munich_, he was overjoy'd to find this Prince there, +and offer'd to make his Peace in _France_, in which he succeeded so far, +as to get his Departure out of the Kingdom approv'd by the Duchess and the +Regent. When the Count's Domestics were arriv'd, he set out for _Hungary_, +and pass'd through _Vienna_ without saluting the Emperor, or the Empress +Dowager his Cousin German. The Empress Was so offended at it, that she +wrote to her Aunt, who was the Prince's Grandmother, and signified to that +Princess, that she did not think it handsome for a Prince of such Descent +as the Count _de Charolois_, to pass through _Vienna_ to serve in the +Imperial Army, without having seen the Emperor. The Count's Relations did +not fail to reproach him for his Want of Respect to their Imperial +Majesties. He excus'd himself, by saying that he did not know what +Treatment he ought to expect; but the Answer he receiv'd, was an Order +from the Regent in the King's Name, to wait on their Imperial Majesties as +he return'd from the Campaign. + +He signaliz'd himself in it very much, but with so little Care of his +Person, that Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ often reproach'd him for it: He +took a Pleasure to go up to the very Breast-work of the Trenches; and +from thence with Screw-Guns he fir'd at the _Turks_, as if he had been +shooting at small Birds: On the other hand the _Turks_ did not spare him, +but sent their Balls whizzing about his Ears in Return for his Frolic. The +Count was present at the Battle of _Belgrade_, and saw that Place taken: +He afterwards went to _Vienna_, and staid there some Weeks, where he had +an Audience of the Emperor, not _incognito_, but as the Count _de +Charolois_. The Emperor receiv'd him at the _Favourita_ standing: His +Audience was attended with this odd Circumstance. The Count, being not +acquainted with the Ceremonial, did not know that he should find the +Emperor all alone; and therefore, when he enter'd the Closet, and saw a +Man in a very plain Dress leaning with his Back against a Table, he took +him for some private Gentleman; but in a few Moments he spy'd the Golden +Fleece: He was doubtful in his Mind, after all, whether 'twas the Emperor; +but he advanc'd, saying within himself, that in either case there was not +much Harm in being mistaken. The Emperor receiv'd him with very great +Marks of Distinction, and the Count kiss'd his Hand, because he had been +told it was the Custom, and that all the Princes of the Empire did the +same. He afterwards went to the Apartment of the Empresses, and had +reason, where-ever he came, to be satisfied with his Reception. + +From _Vienna_ he return'd to _Munich_, after which he made the Tour of +_Italy_, and lodg'd at _Rome_ at the House of the Cardinal _de +Tremouille_, who had then the Care of the Affairs of _France_. After +having repass'd the Mountains, he came back to _Munich_, where he stay'd a +Year and an half, being always lodg'd and defray'd, together with his +Retinue, at the Expence of his Electoral Highness, who kept a Table for +him for twelve Guests, besides Hunting-Equipage, and Horses at his +Command. + +Hunting is this Prince's chief Amusement since he return'd to _France_: He +appears seldom at Court, and neither meddles nor makes with Affairs of +State. They talk often of getting him a Wife; but he does not seem to have +any more Gout for the Sacrament of Marriage, than his younger Brother the +Count _de Clermont_, a young Prince of a lovely Person, a sweet Nature, +and who seems to have a way of Thinking becoming his Birth. They who +approach him, and know him intimately, have assur'd me, that he has all +the Qualities that can be to form hereafter a great Prince. It seems as if +he were design'd for the Church, since his most Serene Highness actually +enjoys several considerable Abbeys; but hitherto this Prince dresses in +the Lay Habit, and performs no Spiritual Function. While I was speaking of +the Count _de Charolois_, I forgot so tell you, that he is Governor of _la +Touraine_, in which Honour he succeeded the late M. _Dangeau_, first +Gentleman-Usher to the late Duchess of _Burgundy_. In his time _la +Touraine_ was not reckon'd among the great Governments; but as the Regent +was willing to give one to the Count _de Charolois_, after having granted +away the Reversions of all the great Governments, he thought of no other +Expedient, than to put _la Touraine_ in the Rank of the other Provinces. + +The three Princes that I have just mention'd, are the Sons of Madame the +Duchess (of _Bourbon_) the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. and Madame +_de Montespan_; She is a Princess who has been cry'd-up in _Europe_ for +her Wit, Beauty, and the Charms of her Person. Tho' she is the Mother of a +numerous Family, she may still be reckoned among the Beauties of the +Court; and 'tis certain, that when the Duchess is with the Princesses her +Daughters, she seems rather to be their Sister than the Mother. This +Princess is immensely rich, those who manage her Affairs having acquir'd +a vast Estate in the contagious Actions of the _Missisippi_. She lives +with very great Magnificence, and has lately caus'd a Palace to be built, +which may be rank'd with the finest Structures in _Europe_. Her most +Serene Highness is often at _Chantilly_ with the Duke her Husband, but the +rest of her Time she divides betwixt the Court and City. + +The Princess of _Conti_ the second Dowager, the Princesses of _Charolois_, +_Clermont_ and _Sens_, are her Daughters, and form one of the most +beautiful Families that ever was. 'Tis pity that Princesses so beautiful +and accomplish'd are not well match'd, but their Greatness is a Bar to +their Settlement in Marriage; besides, this Century has been more prolific +every-where in Princesses than in Princes. The Princess of _Conti_, who +has some Thoughts of a Wife for the Prince her Son, has just bought the +fine House which was built by the Count _de Belle-Isle_, out of the vast +Sums which he got by _Missisippi_ Stock; there she proposes to end her +Days, and she already appears but seldom at Court, which indeed the +Trouble of Dressing hinders a great many Princesses and Ladies from +frequenting. The Princess of _Conti_ was very young when she married, and +has had two Sons; but there's only one of them living, whom in his +Father's Life-time was styl'd the Count _d'Alais_, and is now the Prince +of _Conti_[51]. + +As for Mademoiselle _de Charolois_, all the Charms imaginable are united +in her Person: She has a noble Aspect, a very lively sparkling Wit, and of +all the Duchess's Daughters she is the most like her Mother, and has the +most sprightly Ideas. During the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, when +Money was become extraordinary scarce, Mademoiselle _de Charolois_ +appear'd at the Royal Palace with two _Lewis d'Ors_ in her Ears for +Pendants; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ asking her the Meaning of that +new Fashion, she made him Answer, that she found _Lewis d'Ors_ scarcer +than Diamonds, and that therefore she wore them as such. Mademoiselle _de +Charolois_ lives in the little Hotel _de Bourbon_, which formerly belong'd +to _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ the Palatine, the Widow of _Henry Julius_ of +_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conde_, Grandmother to the Princes and Princesses of +the _Conde_ Family. This Princess has a Family here independent on Madame +the Duchess (of _Bourbon_); but she generally follows the Court, and as +she is very fond of Hunting, and rides well, she makes one at all the +King's Matches. + +Mademoiselle _de Clermont_ is not only very beautiful, but has an Air of +Quality, good Nature and Modesty, which distinguishes her from all the +Grandees of the Court. Calumny, which does not always favour the Royal +Blood here, could never shed its Venom upon this Princess, and the whole +Court ever admir'd her for her Sobriety and Virtue. She is Superintendante +of the Queen's Houshold, and went in this Quality with the Ladies of +Honour to meet her Majesty at _Strasbourg_. + +Mademoiselle _de Sens_, with her Beauty, is both graceful and modest: She +was brought up under her Grandmother the Princess; and after her Decease, +the Duchess of _Brunswic_, her Great Aunt, Mother to the Empress _Amelia_, +who spent her latter Years in _France_, had the Care of her Education, and +form'd her one of the most amiable Princesses upon the Earth. + +The _Conti_ Family, which is the third Branch of the Princes of the Blood, +consists at this time of two Dowager Ladies, a young Prince, and a +Princess, call'd Mademoiselle _de la Roche-sur-yon_. The Princess of +_Conti_, the first Dowager Lady, is the legitimated Daughter of King +_Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_: This Princess is celebrated +for her Beauty, Wit, and noble Air, which she still retains: She happen'd +to be a Widow when she was very young. Some say that the King of _Morocco_ +demanded her in Marriage, but I have been assur'd by many People, that +'tis a mere Fiction. Be this as it will, such a Match was not practicable; +for tho' Religion had been altogether out of the Question, King _Lewis_ +XIV. would never have sacrific'd a Daughter so dear to him, and one who +was the Ornament of his Court, to a _Marabou_[52]. The Princess of +_Conti_, since the Death of her Brother the Dauphin, has not appear'd in +public, and only visits the King and Queen privately in their Majesties +Closet. Her Occupations are Works of Piety and Charity, and her Life is an +Example of Virtue: She commonly resides in her Hotel at _Paris_, which is +beautiful and magnificent, and formerly belong'd to the Marshal-Duke _de +Lorges_. + +The legitimated Princes, Sons of _Lewis_ XIV. are the Duke _de Maine_, and +the Count _de Tholouse_. The former is Grand Master of the Ordnance, +Colonel-General of the _Swiss_ and _Grisons_, and Governor of _Guienne_: +He married _Louisa-Benedictina_ of _Bourbon-Conde_, by whom he has two +Sons and a Daughter. The Duke _de Maine_ possesses the Sovereignty of +_Dombes_, which the late Mademoiselle, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, +Son of _Henry_ IV. left him by Will. This Prince signaliz'd his Valour in +his Youth: He has the Misfortune to halt, but he has a superior Genius, +and is a Man of true Christian Piety. The late King distinguish'd him +above all his Children, of which he gave an illustrious Proof, when he +appointed him Superintendant of the Education of _Lewis_ XV. and when he +made him a Sharer in the Authority of the Regency, together with the Duke +of _Orleans_, whom he would have been glad to have intirely excluded from +it, if his Royal Highness's Birth had not given him an absolute Title to +it. Some Years before this, the said King, by a Declaration the most +solemnly register'd that ever any was, had recognis'd the Ability of the +Duke _de Maine_, the Count _de Tholouse_, and their Posterity, to succeed +to the Crown on Failure of Issue by the lawful Princes. The Princes of the +Blood, in Complaisance to _Lewis_ XIV. before whom every Knee was bow'd, +did not oppose a Declaration so little for their Honour: But in the +Beginning of _Lewis_ XVth's Reign they commenced a Suit upon it against +the legitimated Princes. The Arret which call'd them to the Succession of +the Crown was revok'd, and the Count _de Tholouse_ was the only one that +retain'd for his Life the Honours that were annex'd to the Dignity of +Prince of the Blood. The Duke _de Maine_ and his Children were depriv'd of +these great Prerogatives, and reduc'd to the Rank of their Peerage. Some +Years after, however, it pleas'd the King to restore those Honours to the +Duke _de Maine_, and to his Sons the Prince of _Dombes_, and the Count +_d'Eu_; but these Princes continue excluded from the Crown. + +I have already acquainted you how the Duke of _Bourbon_ depriv'd the Duke +_de Maine_ of the Superintendance of _Lewis_ XVth's Education: But that +was not the only Circumstance that mortified him; for at that Juncture the +Point that seem'd to be solely in View, was to undo every thing that had +been done by _Lewis_ XIV. And the Duke, together with his Employments and +Honours, also lost his Liberty. He was accus'd of holding a Correspondence +with the Prince _de Cellamare_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador, who endeavour'd +to excite the _French_ to a Rebellion against the Regent, by promising +them Assistance from the King his Master: Hereupon the Duke _de Maine_ was +arrested, and committed Prisoner to _Dourlens_ in _Picardy_, where he was +closely confin'd. They who are not the most zealous of this Prince's +Friends, agree that he supported this Reverse of Fortune with an heroic +Constancy. I heard it said by the People who were set to watch him, that +they never saw him once deviate from that Serenity of Mind, and that good +Nature which accompany all his Actions. But the Duchess of _Maine_ did not +receive the News of his Disgrace with the same Tranquillity; for being +born with all the high Spirit of the Great _Conde_ her Grandfather, she +rav'd against the Regent, but especially against her Nephew the Duke, whom +she look'd upon as the Author of her Misfortunes. They say moreover, that +the Duke _de Maine_ himself was rattled by her before he was confin'd. +'Twas on the Day that _Lewis_ XV. came to the Parlement to hold his first +Bed of Justice, when the Duke _de Maine_ was turn'd out of that Share +which the late King's last Will gave him in the Regency. As this Duke came +home from the Parlement, he found his Wife in the utmost Impatience to +know what had been done; of which when he had given her an exact Account, +the Duchess could not bridle her Passion, but looking on her Husband with +Indignation, she said, _I have nothing left then to possess, but the Shame +of having married you!_ When she received Orders to quit to the Duke of +_Bourbon_ that Apartment which she had in the _Thuilleries_, while the +Duke _de Maine_ was Superintendant of the King's Education; _Yes_, said +she, _I will quit it with a Vengeance_, and at the same time order'd it to +be stripp'd quite bare of Furniture; and for the more Haste she dash'd the +Looking-glasses, China, and all Goods of that Sort in Pieces. +Nevertheless, when she was apprehended, and during the Time that she was +detain'd, she was not heard to utter a Complaint or a Murmur; but +supported her Disgrace with that Magnanimity for which she is admir'd, a +Quality which elevates her so far above other Women, and sets her on a Par +with the greatest Men. + +The Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ are often at _Seaux_, a fine House but a +little Distance from _Paris_, on the high Road to _Orleans_, built by +_John Baptist Colbert_. Here they have always a gay Court. This Duchess is +so much in Love with the Arts and Sciences, that all Men of Letters look +on her as their Patroness; and there are few Poetical Compositions which +are not first presented to her. The last Time I paid my Court to her, the +following Piece, compos'd of no more than two Rhymes, was read there, and +so highly applauded, that I herewith send you a Copy of it[53]. + +The Prince of _Dombes_, the Duke of _Maine's_ eldest Son, is a tall +handsome well set Gentleman, and has the Reversion of his Father's +Offices. Whether the Count _d'Eu_ has any Employments, I know not. Both +these Princes are commonly at Court. Mademoiselle _du Maine_ is a very +amiable Princess, whose Education has been fully answerable to her Birth, +and who, by her Manners and Politeness, approves herself the worthy +Daughter of her Mother. + +The Count _de Tholouse_, great Admiral of _France_, is the second Son of +King _Lewis_ XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_. In the last War he commanded +the Naval Army of _France_. He is one of the handsomest and comeliest +Lords at Court. He is noble and magnificent in every thing that he does, +and they say, he is generous. He is very polite, and has always been as +much esteem'd for his Merit, as for his Rank of a legitimated Prince, +which he has preserved, tho' his Brother was divested of it. It was +believed for a long time, that this Prince would not marry, and that his +great Estate would fall to the Children of the Duke _de Maine_; but he +married some Years ago, _Maria Victoria_ of _Noailles_, Widow of the +Marquis _de Gondrin_, Son to the Duke _d'Antin_, by whom he had a Son, who +is now the Duke _d'Epernon_. The Count _de Tholouse_ has had a Son by her +also, who is called the Duke[54]_de Ponthievre_; by which Title, the Count +has the Rank of a Peer in Parliament. This Prince, since his Marriage, has +commonly resided at _Rambouillet_, where the King frequently makes Parties +for Hunting. His Majesty shews a very great Regard for the Countess of +_Tholouse_, which gives her Authority to talk to his Majesty with a great +deal of Freedom. The _French_ say, she was the Occasion of the Duke of +_Bourbon_'s being put out of the Ministry. 'Tis certain, however, that the +King was at _Rambouillet_, when the Duke _de Charost_ went and told the +Duke, That it was his Majesty's Pleasure, that he should quit the Station +of Prime Minister. The Duke being at _Versailles_ when he receiv'd the +unwelcome News, they say, he desired to speak with the King and Queen; but +that the Duke _de Charost_ told him, he had Orders for his Removal to +_Chantilly_. His most Serene Highness obey'd, and did not appear to be +afflicted for the Loss of his Authority, so much as for the falling-off of +his Friends and Creatures. The Marchioness _de Prie_, Lady of the +Bed-chamber to the Queen, whom he honoured with a very singular Esteem, +received Orders to leave the Court, and to retire to _Normandy_; where, +during her being in Favour, she had purchased a considerable Estate. The +Brothers of the Name of _Paris_, those Objects of the Public Odium, were +divested of their Authority. M. _de Blanc_ came again into the Ministry: +M. _de Belle-Isle_ regain'd his Liberty, and obtained the Command of the +Troops of the Government of _Metz_, and the three Bishopricks. The +Marchioness _de Prie_ had the Mortification to see her Employment of Lady +of the Bed-chamber fill'd up by the Daughter of M. _le Blanc_, to whom she +was a declared Enemy, and whom she had endeavoured to ruin. This Lady was +not able to support herself long under her Disgrace; for having been used +to bear a Sway, she could not reconcile herself to Retirement; but +languished for a while, and at length died of a Colic, which gave her +horrid Pains. She was not much regretted, because she had made few +Friends; Ambition and Self-Interest had taken intire hold of her. She +thought her Disgrace unsufferable, and the little Reflection she made upon +the Revolution of Fortune, rendered hers but the more intolerable. I will +hereafter give you an Account of the Cardinal _de Fleury_, and of the +Persons now of the First Rank at Court; but at present my Pen is ready to +drop out of my Fingers; for 'tis One o'Clock in the Morning, and if I +write any more, I shall but give you my Dreams. Therefore I am, with all +the Esteem, possible, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLI. + + + _SIR_, _Versailles, May 1, 1732._ + +In my last Letter I mention'd the Princes and Princesses of the Blood +Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this +Court, who are in the most exalted Stations. + +The Cardinal _de Fleury_, by his Dignity of Cardinal, and much more by his +Character, as the Depositary of the Royal Authority, has the first Rank in +the State next to the Princes of the Blood. This Prelate, tho' far +advanced in Years, is brisk and lively to Admiration. His Stature is +somewhat above the middle Size; he has a happy Physiognomy, to which +Fortune has not given the Lye; and he is humble, good-natur'd and civil. +You know that he was Bishop of _Frejus_. He resign'd that See to excuse +himself from the Pastoral Charge of Souls, when the late King _Lewis_ XIV. +nominated him, by his Last Will, Preceptor to the young _Dauphin_, now +King _Lewis_ XV. This was almost the only Article of _Lewis_ the Grand's +Will, which the Regent put in Execution. M. _de Frejus_ won the Heart of +the young Monarch to such a Degree, that the Prince was intirely wrapp'd +up in him; and his Affection for him has increas'd so much ever since, +that now it may be literally said, that the Cardinal _de Fleury_ is the +Depositary, or Trustee, of the Royal Authority. The Regent, a Prince of +Penetration, if ever there was one, quickly perceived what an Ascendant M. +_de Frejus_ had over the young Monarch; and being apprehensive of what +might be the Consequences of it, he was continually contriving how to +remove the Prelate from Court. With this View he offered him the +Archbishoprick of _Rheims_, which was vacant by the Death of the Cardinal +_de Mailly_; but M. _de Fleury_, who resigned the Bishoprick of _Frejus_, +that he might not have the Charge of Souls, was so far from accepting one +of the greatest Archbishopricks in the Kingdom, that he absolutely refused +it. The Duke of _Orleans_, who was intent upon carrying his Point, offered +to make him a Cardinal; for he hoped, that the Pope's ill State of Health +would quickly bring on a Conclave; and that then M. _de Frejus_ would be +obliged to go to _Rome_, where he thought he shou'd be able to continue +him, on Pretence of managing the King's Affairs there; and that then the +young Monarch's Fondness to see his Favourite would by that Means +insensibly be weaned. But M. _de Frejus_ saw the Hook that was hid under +this Bait. The red Hat did not dazzle his Eyes; and he knew moreover, that +if he kept close to the King's Person, he could be sure of a Hat whenever +he pleased. However, he thank'd the Duke of _Orleans_, and told him, he +had no such ambitious Views, and that he preferred his Station in the +King's Council, before all the Dignities, to which, in his Goodness, he +had Thoughts of promoting him. The Duke of _Orleans_, however chagrin'd at +the Prelate's Moderation, was forc'd to keep it to himself; he was afraid +to make use of his Authority; for it was not long before this, that he +banish'd the Marshal _de Villeroy_ to _Lyons_, at which the People +grumbled; and to put away the Preceptor too, would have rais'd a Clamour +against him, throughout the whole Kingdom. M. _de Frejus_ continued at +Court as a Member of the Privy Council, and there was not a Courtier who +gave more constant Attendance; and in this Station he supported the +Ministry of the Cardinal _du Bois_, the Duke of _Orleans_, and the Duke of +_Bourbon_; but he confin'd himself all the while within the Bounds of his +Office. At the King's Marriage, he accepted of that of Great Almoner to +the Queen, and by that Means his Attachment to the Court became more +strict. When the Duke _de Bourbon_ was disgrac'd, the King offered the +Place of Prime Minister to M. _de Frejus_, who, indeed, accepted of that +eminent Post; but 'twas on Condition, that he should not be compelled to +take the Title, and that he might always lay an Account of every Thing +before the King. + +The Bishop of _Frejus_ being thus become Master of the Government, it was +but reasonable that he should be adorned with the Purple, to give the more +Lustre to his Character. Mean time _France_, had no Hat to demand, for the +Number of her Cardinals was completed. The Emperor having a Pretension at +that Time to a Hat, the King desired him to yield it to him for his First +Minister; and the Emperor, overjoy'd that he could oblige the King, and +that he could make the Minister some sort of Amends for his pacific +Sentiments, gave him his Nomination accordingly. Pope _Benedict_ XIII. +sent the Cap to the Bishop, who then assumed the Title of Cardinal _de +Fleury_; and with this Title he now governs the State, not with the +general Applause of the _French_, because the Thing is impossible; but at +least, with the Approbation of his King, of Foreigners, and indeed, of +every Man in the Kingdom, who is thoroughly inform'd of the State of +_France_ in particular, and of _Europe_ in general. Yet those who have the +least Affection for the Cardinal, must acknowledge his Disinterestedness +and Integrity; for the worst Enemy he has, cannot accuse him of amassing +Riches, or of coveting to aggrandize his Family; in which respect he is, +perhaps, negligent to a Fault, his Kindred having the Character of Persons +of Worth. + +The Cardinal's Expences are as much circumscrib'd as his Dignity will +admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no +doubt, 'tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so +vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to +Business, And I don't think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in +his Diversions. + +The _French_ (I speak of those who hope to make their Fortune by the +Sword) find fault with his Temper as too pacific. _We are despis'd_, (say +they) _our Neighbours make Treaties and Alliances without us, and +France+ +is no longer what she was in the Time of +Lewis+ XIV._ + +I am not here proposing to make a Panegyric on the Cardinal, but I cannot +help letting you see how weakly those People talk, who censure his Conduct +as to Foreign Affairs. I don't pretend to enter into the Domestic Affairs +of the Kingdom, tho' I am very well persuaded, that the Cardinal's +Integrity, and his Zeal for the King, incline him to act to the best of +his Power. I will only leave you to judge if his Inclination to Peace is +blameable. When he came into the Ministry, he found the King's Coffers +exhausted, and the Kingdom in a Condition, which requir'd Rest rather than +a War, the Event of which is always uncertain. But after all, Who is there +to go to War with? What shall be the Pretence? Who is it that insults +_France_? Or, Who desires any thing more of her than her Friendship? Have +not the Treaties of _Utrecht_, and _Baden_, and all the Treaties made +since, during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, settled the Interests +of _Europe_? Did not _England_ earnestly court the Alliance of _France_? +Has the Emperor seem'd less desirous of it? Nay, Did not _Spain_ itself, +forgetting the sending back of the _Infanta_, enter into her former +Engagements with this Crown, as soon as the Cardinal _de Fleury_ was +vested with the Ministry? In what respect then, can the _French_ think +themselves despis'd by their Neighbours? I will take upon me to prove, on +the contrary, that _Lewis_ XV. during the Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry, +instead of being neglected, has been as much courted by the Foreign +Powers, as _Lewis_ XIV. was in all that Glory which procured him the Title +of _Louis le Grand_. When the Clamour was for abolishing the _Ostend_ +Company, How did _England_ and _Holland_ bestir themselves to make the +King a Party in their Quarrel? What did not the Emperor do to engage him +in his Interest? Every thing was uncertain, as long as _France_ remained +undetermined. The _English_ and the _Dutch_ prepared to attack the +Emperor, and the latter made ready for his Defence. The Cardinal having +got the King to declare for the Maritime Powers, the Emperor abolish'd the +_Ostend_ Company immediately. What more could have been obtained by a War? + +When the Talk was, of introducing the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_, +what Measures, what Solicitations were not employ'd by the Powers +concerned, either to bring over _Lewis_ XV. to their Party, or to oblige +him to a Neutrality? Count _Sinzendorff's_ coming from _Vienna_ to +_Versailles_, on purpose to treat for the Tranquillity of _Italy_, seems +to me a Proof, that the Emperor does not neglect _France_ to such a +Degree as the Uneasy and Disaffected would fain have it believed. In good +Truth, if _France_ had not threatened to attack the Emperor, in case he +did not consent to the Introduction of the _Infante_ into _Tuscany_, would +his Imperial Majesty have been influenced by the bare Menaces of _Spain_? +That Monarch is too well established in _Italy_, to fear any thing from +that Crown; and if Equity and Justice did not always accompany his +Actions, it would have been easy for him to have taken Possession of +_Tuscany_; and the _Spaniards_, who have never been able to retake +_Gibraltar_, and who, perhaps, would never have reduced _Barcelona_ +without the Assistance of the _French_, would have found it a very +difficult Matter to have turned them out of it. The Cardinal _de Fleury_ +having persuaded the King to declare in Favour of the _Infante_, he +threatens to join the _English_ and _Spaniards_; and the Emperor seeing +all _Europe_ against him, but especially _France_, which is capable of +striking the hardest Blows, yields to the Times, and grants every thing +that is desired of him. Can there be any thing more to the Honour of the +Cardinal? And, Why should a War be undertaken, if Menaces alone are +sufficient to obtain what is desired? + +But, say the Disaffected, we purchase Peace of all the World by our Money. +The Cardinal is not chargeable with lavishing the King's Money. I know not +that he gives away any, unless it be the Subsidies granted to the Crowns +of _Denmark_ and _Sweden_. If that be purchasing a Peace, _Lewis_ XIV. and +the Regent after him, were much more lavish of the Royal Treasure, and +perhaps with less Profit; and it would be easy to demonstrate, that in +order to dislodge the _Spaniards_ from _Sicily_, the Regent sent more +Money into _Germany_ and _England_, in one Month, than the Cardinal gives +away in a Year to the Northern Crowns; tho' one of 'em has for Time out of +Mind been used to draw Subsidies from _France_. Yet all this while, the +Regent was not accused of purchasing a Peace of his Neighbours; because, +in order to make it necessary to buy a Peace, some Prince or other must +have threatened him with a War. But 'tis certain, that no Power did then, +or does now, think of attacking _France_. Let her continue peaceable, and +there we will leave her. + +But on the other hand, tho' it were not justifiable for the Cardinal to +entertain pacific Sentiments, and tho' he were to indulge the Passion of +the _French_, I would fain know of those who are so hot for a War, Whether +they are well assured it would have a happy Issue? And, Whether, when a +War is once begun, it would be in their Power to put an End to it, +whenever they thought it consistent with their Affairs? Nay, I will +suppose that every thing should happen as they would wish, and that the +War should prove a fortunate one; What Acquisition can _France_ make, +which would not be more to her Expence than her Advantage? For the farther +she extends her Conquests, the more Enemies she will have of Course, and +the more Troops she will be oblig'd to maintain. The Frontiers of the +Kingdom are secured. Are a few more Towns, nay, an intire Province, a +sufficient Temptation for a King of _France_? And are they an Equivalent +for the Blood and Treasure that must be expended to acquire them? No, +surely, the Cardinal is perfectly in the right, and I must beg the +_Frenchmen's_ Pardon, when I tell 'em, they know not what they would be +at. How desirous were they of the late Peace? And they have scarce tasted +the Fruits of it, but they now want a War. If the Cardinal should enter +into a War, and the Consequences of it should prove fatal, Would they not +throw the Blame upon him? They would say for the Purpose, that it was +inconsistent with a Priest to make War. For my Part, I think the Cardinal +_de Fleury_ has substantial Reasons for doing what he does. The _French_ +have been so long accustomed to the turbulent Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. which +was interspersed throughout with great Events, that they know not how to +reconcile themselves to one that is more placid and calm; but 'tis to be +hoped, they will ere long. Whatever they do, the Cardinal seems to be very +easy, let them say what they will of him. As he knows that he has nothing +to reproach himself with, and that he has always preferred the Good of the +Public to his own private Interest, he is afraid of no Revolution in his +Fortune. He is sensible that Innocence always holds up its Head, and that +real Merit is above the Reach of Envy and Malice. + +M. _Daguesseau_ the Chancellor of _France_, is the Chief Magistrate of the +Kingdom, and his Office is attended with such great Prerogatives, that the +King cannot take it from him. The Person whom he succeeded in this eminent +Dignity, was M. _Voisin_, who being Secretary of War, was made Chancellor +by _Lewis_ XIV. upon M. _de Pontchartrain_'s resigning that Post, to +devote the Residue of his Life to God in Retirement. M. _Voisin_ dying +suddenly in the Beginning of the Duke of _Orlean_'s Regency, M. +_Daguesseau_, then Attorney-General, was, by his Royal Highness, appointed +Chancellor in his Room. All _France_ applauded this Choice. Every body was +so satisfied of this Magistrate's Candour and Integrity, that nobody +doubted he would assert Justice and Equity; and in short, he perfectly +answered the Expectations of the Public. But as true Merit, is always the +most envied, a Cabal was soon formed against his Integrity. M. +_Daguesseau_ refused to put the Seal to certain Edicts, which he thought +contrary to the Welfare of the Government; at which the Duke of _Orleans_ +was so incensed, that he banished the Chancellor to _Frene_, a fine Seat +belonging to that Minister near _Meaux_; and the Seals were given to M. +_d'Argenson_, Lieutenant of the Police, with the Title of Keeper of the +Seals, which was formerly no more than a bare Commission; but the Regent +was then for erecting it into an Office. The Parliament of _Paris_ +exclaimed very much against this Innovation, but the Regent, after all, +was obey'd. Upon the Death of M. _d'Argenson_, the Chancellor was +recall'd, and the Seals restor'd to[55]him; but he held them not long; for +the Regent, who was resolved to have no Ministers but such as knew how to +obey, disgraced the Chancellor a second time for opposing his Will, and +gave the Seals to M. _d'Armenonville_. The latter dying during the +Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry, the Seals were given to M. _de +Chauvelin_, who, besides the Title of Keeper of the Seals, has also the +Office of Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The +Chancellor, who has been recalled for some time, assists at the Council; +but his Office has been depriv'd of its greatest Lustre, since the Seals +have been separated from it. + +M. _Chauvelin_, Keeper of the Seals, Minister and Secretary of[56]State +for Foreign Affairs, owes his Advancement to the Cardinal _de Fleury_, +who seems to confide in him intirely. This Minister is reckon'd very +laborious, good-natur'd and civil. The Foreign Ministers are so taken with +him, that they think no more of Messieurs _de Torcy_ and _de Morville_. +The former was of the _Colbert_ Family, Secretary of Foreign Affairs under +_Lewis_ XIV. a Man, as one may say, born for the Ministry, and whose great +and good Services have been very much cry'd-up, but more rewarded by the +Applauses of _Europe_, than by Favours from the Court. The other was the +Son of the late Keeper of the Seals, _d'Armenonville_, and had acquir'd a +great Reputation in his Embassies to _Holland_, and the Congress of +_Cambray_, when he desired Leave to[57] retire, and was succeeded by M. +_Chauvelin_. + +The Count _de Maurepas_ is Grandson to the Chancellor _de Pontchartrain_, +and Son to the Count _de Pontchartrain_, Secretary for the Maritime +Affairs in the Reign of King _Lewis_ XIV. He enter'd very young into the +Ministry, and has so behav'd as to gain Friends and Dependants. I have not +heard one Man give him an ill Word, while every body speaks well of him; +but as for his Secretaries, or chief Clerks, the Seafaring People often +exclaim against the Airs of Importance which some of those Scribes put on, +who watch all Opportunities to impose on the Honesty of the Minister, in +Favour of their Creatures, to the Prejudice of other Subjects, who have +more Merit. + +The Count _de S. Florentin_ is of the Family of _Phelypeaux_, as is also +the Count _de Maurepas_, who married his Sister. He is the Son of M. _de +la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State; and had the Reversion of his Father's +Office granted him by the Regent, when he was scarce twenty Years of Age. +M. _de la Vrilliere_ dying not long before the King's Marriage, M. _de S. +Florentin_ entered on his Office. He has that Province which relates to +Affairs Ecclesiastical. He married, some Years ago, the Daughter of the +late Count _de Platen_, Great Chamberlain, and Hereditary Post-Master of +_Hanover_; but neither of 'em knew one another before the Match was made. +Mademoiselle _de Platen_ was a _Lutheran_, but is turn'd _Catholic_. The +Lady, her Mother, for Whom I had as profound a Veneration as for any Woman +in the World, and whose Memory I still revere, brought her into _France_. +M. _de S. Florentin_ has Reason to be pleas'd with the Choice he has made: +For his Lady is not only very charming, but has noble Sentiments, and a +Virtue which Calumny itself durst not asperse. When she married M. _de S. +Florentin_, King _George_ I. of _Great Britain_ settled a Pension upon her +of forty thousand Livres, for forty-five Years; and King _George_ II. on +his Accession to the Crown, was pleased to confirm the said Pension, upon +that Lady's going to _London_ to solicit it, in Company with her +Mother-in-law Madame _de la Vrilliere_, now Duchess of _Mazarine_. + +M. _d'Angervilliers_, formerly Intendant of _Alsace_, is Secretary of the +War-Office, in which he succeeded M. _le Blanc_, who was the Secretary a +second time, when he died at _Versailles_. The first time that he was +Secretary, he was supplanted by M. _de Breteuil_, during the Ministry of +the Duke _de Bourbon_; and he, in his Turn, supplanted M. _de Breteuil_, +the Queen's Chancellor, in the Ministry of the Cardinal _de Fleury_. +You see by this, that the War-Office has been several times chang'd +in a few Years; but 'tis like to remain always in the Hands of M. +_d'Angervilliers_, whose Application, Vigilance and Integrity, are very +much cry'd-up by the Officers, and all that have to do with him. I gave +you some Account of this Minister, when I wrote to you from _Strasbourg_, +to which I have nothing to add. + +As the Secretary of War has been often chang'd of late Years, the +Comptroller-General of the Finances has been much more so. From the Year +1711, when I first came to _Paris_, to this Day, I have known seven +Comptrollers General, and not one of 'em died in the Office: So that this +Post may well be compared to that of the Grand _Vizier_, which is alike +struggled for, and alike fatal to those who are invested with it. + +Of all the Men who have had that ticklish Employment of Comptroller-General +in _France_, there is not one that has made a more shining Fortune, and a +Fortune that sooner slipp'd from him, than _John Law_. This Man, of whom +many People have wrote and talk'd without knowing him, and according to +their Passions, was a _Scotsman_, born with a narrow Fortune, but strong +Desires to inlarge it. He had travell'd through several Parts of _Europe_, +and Gaming prov'd his chief Subsistence. He won considerable Sums in +_Italy_, especially at _Genoa_; and there it was that he hatch'd all those +Projects which he put in Execution in _France_. 'Tis true, that he did not +come into this Kingdom, till he had offered his Services to _Victor +Amadeus_, the King of _Sardinia_. This Prince told him, That his Dominions +were too small for the Execution of so great a Design; but that _France_ +was a Theatre, where he might expect to make his Market, and thither he +advised him to go. _If I know the Humour of the +French+_, added the King, +_I am sure they will relish your Schemes_. _John Law_ took the Monarch's +Advice, and shewed his Project to the Regent, who approved it; and the +Projector soon found, that he had the Purses of the _French_ absolutely at +his Command. As he was a Protestant, he made his Abjuration in the +_Recollets_ Church at _Melun_, in the Diocese of _Sens_, in the Month of +_December_ 1719, in the Hands of the Abbe[58]_Tancin_. In the Month of +_January_ following, he was made Comptroller-General; but he quitted that +Post in _June_; abruptly left _Paris_ on the thirteenth of _December_ +1720; and after rambling about for a while, not knowing where to fix, (for +his own Country did not suit him) he died at _Munich_. The Generality of +the _French_ accuse him of having exhausted _France_, and sent away +immense Sums to Foreign Countries. How true this is, I know not, but 'tis +certain, that _Law_, after his Disgrace, liv'd very meanly. His Widow and +his Son, (Mr. _John Law_)[59] who are actually at _Utrecht_, make no very +great Figure there, which very many People ascribe to Policy. But for my +own Part, who think more freely, and don't see what could hinder Mrs. +_Law_ and her Son from making a Display of their Riches, in the Country +where they live; I can't help crediting what People, and such as were +_John Law_'s Intimates, have assured me for a certain Truth, _viz._ That +_Law_ being puff'd-up with his Fortune, and not thinking it would be so +short-liv'd, had no Thought of securing it in Foreign Countries; and that +if he had such a Purpose, he had not Time to send any Sums out of the +Kingdom. He was oblig'd both by Necessity, and out of Policy, to make +Purchases in _France_; and accordingly he made considerable Acquisitions; +but they were no more than a pleasant Dream to him, and the Loss of them +only made his Disgrace the greater Affliction. I am of their Opinion, who +believe that _John Law_ was richer when he came to _France_, than he was +three Months after he left it. This Copy of Verses was made upon him, +which, perhaps, you will not be sorry to see[60]. + + The TITLE of it is, A COMMISSION of the OFFICE of + COMPTROLLER-GENERAL of the FINANCES, for Mr. JOHN LAW. + + _De par le Dieu porte-marotte, + Nous General de la Calotte, + Attendu que le Regiment + Est oblige sensiblement + Au Sieur +Law+, de qui la Science + Et conduite dans la Finance + Nous a donne maints Calotins, + En inventant les Bulletins, + Autrement dits Billets de Banque, + Pour servir au jeu de la Blanque, + Jeu non renouvelle des Grecs, + Comme le Fade jeu de l'Oye, + Mais imagine tout expres + Pour exciter l'homme a la joye: + Temoin les Plaisans viremens, + Et continuels changemens, + Que l'on a vu dans le Royaume + De Quinquempoix & de Vendome, + Et Principaute de Soissons, + Ou l'Achat & le Dividende_ + _Causoient un Rumeur st grande, + Qu'on ne vit jamais tant de Rats + Obseder gens de tous etats: + Mari, Femme, Garcon & Fille! + Laquais, Servantes, la Famille! + En un mot, sans rien excepter, + Venoit jouer & blanqueter, + Et s'y portoit de telle sorte, + Qu'il falloit Gardes a la Porte + Pour renvoyer chacun chez soi, + Apres les trois coups de Beffroi. + La de tous Pais & Provinces, + Marchands, Magistrats, Artisans, + Prelats, Guerriers & Courtisans, + Ducs & Pairs, & meme des Princes, + Non du Pais, mais bien forains, + Accouroient comme des Essains, + Malgre vent, grele, pluye & crotte, + Pour y jouer a la Marotte, + En beaux & bons deniers comptant, + Contre des Voleurs Calotines, + Dont la +France+ & terres voisines + Se pourront souvenir longtems._ + + _A ces Causes, vu l'Abondance + Des Calotins qui sont en +France+ + De tous Rangs & de tous etats, + Par le moyen du dit Sieur +Las+, + Nous lui consions nos Finances; + Voulons que sur ses Ordonnances + Nos fonds soient oeconomises, + Augmentes & realises; + Afin que selon son merite + Chacun ait part, grosse ou petite, + Dans nos immenses Revenus, + Tant de gros Fonds que de menus. + Or comme un pareil Ministere + Est sert etendu dans sa Sphere, + Lui donnons pour premier Commis, + +NOMPAR[61]+ qui des moins endormis + Connoit la manoeuvre diverse + De la Finance & du Commerce. + Lui donnons pour Profits & Droit, + Pensions, Gages & Salaries, + Le quart de tous les Angles droits, + Que couperont les Commissaires + Au papier qui sera vise, + Et duquel en homme avise + Il a si bien grossi le nombre, + Que la +France+ y seroit a l'ombre, + Si tous le Billets rassembles, + Et les uns aux autres colles, + On en pouvoit saire une Tente. + Au surplus de ladite Rente, + Lui donnons notre grand Cordon, + Passant de la droite a la gauche, + Ainsi qu'un legere ebauche + De sa droiture, dont le fond + Va si loin que [62]+Terrasson+ meme, + Grand calculateur du Systeme, + Ne pourroit pas le mesurer. + En outre, pour mieux honorer + Le chef de ce grand Personnage, + Qui fit bouquer tout homme sage, + Et soi disant docte & profond, + Lui donnons Calotte de plomb, + De la haute et premiere classe; + Et pour surcroit de telle grace, + Joignons a ces [63]Coqs dont la voix + Chanta la Justice au Francois, + Papillons, Rats & Girouettes,_ + _Hannetons Grelots, & Sonnettes. + En memoirs d'un si beau chant, + Qu'au sortir de +France+ on publie + Qu il va chanter en +Italie+, + Ou sans doute il aura beau champ + Pour exercer son grand Genie, + Et sa connoissance infinie + Dans l'art de decupler les sonds + Par Billets payables a vue, + Desquels aujourd'hui nous voyons + En +France+ une si bonne Issue. + Ordonnons a tous les Pais + De notre vaste Dependance, + De l'ecouter dans ses avis, + Sur-tout dans l'art de la Finance; + Art qu'il possede eminemment. + Fait au Conseil du Regiment[64]._ + +'Tis certain, that never was any thing more splendid, than the short Reign +of his Fortune. The _French_ perfectly idoliz'd, him, and even those who +turned their Backs to his Altar, could not help admiring him as an +extraordinary Man. The Nobility did not scruple to pay their Homage to +him; and I have seen Dukes and Peers of _France_ waiting in his +Antichamber, like the meanest Subjects. Towards the Close, there was no +coming to the Speech of him without Money. The _Swiss_ must be feed for +Entrance at his Gate, the _Lacqueys_ for Admittance into his Antichamber, +and the _Valets de Chambre_ for the Privilege of Access to his +Presence-Chamber or Closet. The Audiences too were very short, and People +were quickly dismissed with very little Merchandise for a great deal of +Money. Mean time he was civil, and his Fortune did not seem to have puff'd +him up. He was a fine handsome Man, of a fair Complexion, as the _English_ +generally are, and had a very noble Port. Nobody understood _Algebra_ +better than he did, and, let his Enemies say what they please, his System +was good in itself, and might have been beneficial to _France_, if it had +been punctually follow'd. + +The Scheme was calculated for keeping two Thirds more of Species in the +Kingdom, than of Bills, in which Case there would always have been Money +enough to have paid off those Bills. But this did not satisfy the Avarice +of the Under-strappers; and in 1720, when the Bank Bills were put down, +there were two Thirds of Bills in the Kingdom, to one Third of Money, +_viz._ five hundred Millions of Money, to a thousand Millions in Bills; +and M. _d'Argenson_, the Protector of the four Brothers of the Name of +_Paris_, prevailed on the Regent to circulate 1760 Millions of +extraordinary Bills not registered, with which People bought and sold +Shares; and during this Commerce, the Bills were realiz'd by the Brokers +into Species; insomuch that, according to a Computation then made by +_Bareme_, they say, that at the Time of the total Suppression of the +Bills, which was in _October_ 1720, there were more Livres _Tournois_ in +the famous Bank of _Missisippi_, than there had been Minutes since the +Creation of the World. All this Variety of Bills had so stupified the +_Parisians_, and they gave them such intire Credit, that before the Arret +of the fifteenth of _May_ 1720, which sunk the Bills from ten _per Cent. +per Mensem_ to half their Value, a _Parisian_ did not care to be paid in +Specie; for he thought Bills were far better, not only because they were +not liable to be lower'd, but because they were more ready to count, and +especially to carry. A Man that had Millions in his Pocket did not +perceive the Weight of 'em, whereas but one hundred _Louis-d'ors_ are too +heavy; and, how was it possible for a Man to carry them in his Pocket +without being tir'd? While Peoples Fortunes were in Paper, I could boast +of having had a Letter-case once in my Hands, in which there were Notes to +the Value of thirty-two Millions. If they had been my own, I question +whether I should have let them lie in Bank Bills, with the Hazard of +losing half the Value. What follows, is a short, but curious Account of +this Scheme[65]. + +_Lewis_ XIV. a little before he died, was two thousand two hundred +Millions in Debt: But by the Reduction of the Principal and Interest of +the Revenues of the Town-House, (of _Paris_) by strikeing off two fifths +upon all Contracts, and by reducing Interest to four _per Cent._ the Debts +of the State were reduced to one thousand eight hundred Millions; which +was the very Sum that was owing from the Crown, when _Lewis_ XV. came to +it. The Debts of the Government were afterwards reduced to one thousand +four hundred Millions, by sinking a Quarter, a half and three-fourths upon +the State Bills, as well as all other Debts owing by the King, as also on +Pensions, and by the Recovery of great Sums thro' the Chamber of Justice. +Mr. _Law_ thought he should be able to extinguish all the Debts, by a +Scheme which he form'd upon the Profits that were made by _Missisippi_. +For this Purpose he erected a Bank, and caused as many Shares to be +created, as amounted to one hundred and fifty Millions, at one hundred +Livres each, payable in State Bills, which, to the Advantage of the +Buyers, rose to no less than one thousand. After this, he created more +Actions, to the Value of one hundred and five Millions, payable in Money +or Effects, at one thousand _per Cent._ which, with the former one hundred +and fifty Millions, produced one thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; +a Sum more than sufficient to cancel all the King's Debts. Besides this, +Mr. _Law_ created Bank Bills for one thousand two hundred Millions, of +which he received the Value, either in Money or Effects. He raised the +Money higher, upon which there were at least three hundred Millions +Profit, that are not brought to the Accompt. He compelled all People to +carry their Money to the Bank, by certain Arrets, which injoin'd People at +first, to keep no more than one hundred Livres by them, and afterwards but +five hundred. So that in eight Months Management, he augmented the old +Debts of the State, that were one thousand four hundred Millions, to one +thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; which, added to the one thousand +two hundred Millions of the Bank, rise to two thousand eight hundred and +fifty Millions, due at this Time from the King. If to this we add the +_Praemium_ to which the Actions rose, which at one thousand eight hundred +among private People, make five thousand four hundred Millions more; to +which the one thousand two hundred Millions in Bank Bills must be added; +it will appear that the Public is charg'd with six thousand six hundred +Millions in Paper; and for the paying off of that Sum, there will be but +five hundred Millions in the Kingdom in Specie, when they are reduced to +their intrinsic Value. The King having received one thousand six hundred +and five Millions in Effects, of which he owed the greatest Part, and +Actions or Shares being taken instead thereof, which Actions, by secret +Management, rose to five thousand four hundred Millions among the +Subjects, Mr. _Law_ thereby gave the People the Opportunity of putting +three thousand seven hundred and five Millions in their Pockets. + + An ACCOUNT of the BANK BILLS that subsisted, and of those that + were burnt. + + Bills engraved 669000000 + Bills printed 1927400000 + ---------- + _Viz._ + + Bills of 10000 Livres 1134000000 + 1000 1123200000 + 100 299200000 + 10 40000000 + ---------- + Total 2596400000 + + Bills burnt of 10000 Livres 562500000 + 1000 138528000 + 100 6026000 + 10 273460 + ---------- + Total 707327460 + + There then remained therefore} + in Trade } 1989072540 + +The Fortunes made at _Paris_, during this _Missisippi_ Contagion, are so +extraordinary, that unless one had seen it, 'twere impossible to believe +it; and, what is still more unaccountable, the greatest were rais'd by +mere Scoundrels; for except a few of the Court Lords and Ladies, it look'd +as if Fortune had resolved to put the Gentry into Almshouses, for the Sake +of inriching a Parcel of Bankrupts, Lacqueys, Beggars, and other of the +Mobility[66]. And 'tis my real Opinion, that if God had not interpos'd, +Footmen would at length have been the Masters, and the Masters the +Footmen. The Handicraftsmen laid by their Work; there was nothing talked +of but Actions, and every Place echoed with _Missisippi_ and +_Quinquempoix_, which is the Street where all that hopeful Trade was +carried on. + +These lucky _Missisippians_ have nevertheless seen the Turn of Fortune's +Wheel. The Generality of those who had not the Precaution to send their +Money out of the Kingdom, were called to Accompt, and obliged to disgorge +a Part of their Gains. Whether the King got much by this Scrutiny, I know +not; but I believe it had the same Fate as the Chamber of Justice, +established in 1716, in the _Augustins_ Convent at _Paris_, for the +Prosecution of People employ'd in the Finances. This Tribunal, at the Head +of which was M. _de Portail_, now the first President, had condemned +several Tax Gatherers for an infinite Number of Misdemeanors committed in +the King's Finances. Some were punished as they justly deserved. A great +many were tax'd in Proportion to the Declarations they were forced to make +of their immense Wealth, which might have produc'd very considerable Sums +for the Ease of the Government, at that Time plung'd over Head and Ears in +Debt. But these Bloodsuckers of the People compounded for a Trifle of +Expence, by a few Presents to a Lady, or to some Nobleman who had the +Favour of the Regent. This was a Golden Shower, of which the least Part +fell into the King's Coffers. + +I have made a terrible Digression. Mr. _Law_ carried me to _Missisippi_, +which is a long Voyage, and a Country from whence a Man can't return +whenever he has a Mind to it; but I am now come back to the Court. I have +mentioned the Ministers to you, but they are not the only Persons that +have a Seat in the Council. One of its Members is the Marshal _de +Villars_, who being of all the _French_ Generals, the Man that made the +most shining Figure during the last War, I think myself oblig'd to give +you a more particular Account of him. + +_Francis Hector_, Duke _de Villars_, Marshal of _France_, and Dean of the +Marshals, is a Gentleman of a good Family, his Father having been a +Commander of the King's Orders. His Stature is above the middle Size, and +he has the Port and Step of a Nobleman. He has an agreeable winning +Countenance, and hazel Eyes, which are lively and sparkling. He is a Man +of Penetration, crafty, complaisant, and capable of great Affairs. He +talks a great deal; but what he says is to the Purpose. He is laborious, +attach'd to, and indefatigable in Business, a courageous good Soldier, and +a successful General. Satire charges him with Avarice, as it did the Duke +of _Marlborough_ his Rival: He is, withal, accused of being too haughty, +and too conceited of his Actions, and his Merits. This, indeed, may be +true enough; for I myself was Witness to a Conversation, in which he +discovered it sufficiently plain. 'Twas the Winter after the Battle of +_Denain_, when the Marshall being at Dinner with the late[67]M. +_d'Armagnac_, Great Master of the Horse, where I was likewise a Guest; he +talked a great deal about his Exploits, to which I listened so +attentively, that he took Notice of it; and being unknown to him, he +whispered the Master of the Horse in the Ear, to know who I was; and when +the Marshal was told that I was a _German_, he paid me a good deal of +Respect. Then resuming his Discourse, and addressing it to me, he talked +of his Victory at _Denain_, with an Air of mighty Self-Applause. _But +why_, said he, _did your People drown themselves? I am merciful, I would +have given them Quarter_; _and they ought surely to have asked it_. I +declare to you, that my Soul was all in Fire for the Honour of _Germany_. +Those Words, Mercy and Quarter, I took for an Insult upon my Country. I +was young and hot-headed, and was just going to return him an Answer that +would not have become me; however, I kept my Temper, and 'twas not till +the second or third Provocation that I made him Answer, _That I did not +think he ought to be surprized at what the +German+ Troops did, because +they had known his Valour sufficiently before the Battle of +Denain+, but +never had a Trial of his Clemency_. I saw that he did not relish my +Answer, upon which he shifted the Subject, and did not speak a Word more +to me all the Time. + +Some time after the Peace, however, I made him Satisfaction: 'Twas at the +House of the Duchess _de Lude_, Lady of Honour to the Duchess of +_Burgundy_. There was a great deal of Company, and among the rest, the +Marshal _de Villars_. The Conversation fell upon the Custom of the +Ancients, to give Surnames to their Heroes; and the Moderns were blam'd +for not doing so too. _What Name should we find for you, Marshal?_ said +the Duchess _de Lude_. I replied immediately, _This would be no difficult +Task. I don't think that any Title would suit the Marshal +de Villars+ +better than that of +Germanicus Franciscus+_. This Trifle hit the +Marshal's Taste so nicely, that he put on a smiling Countenance, and said +a great many obliging Things to me. + +The Marshal _de Villars_, in his Youth, was a Page to _Lewis_ XIV. He +enter'd into the Service very young, and distinguished himself at his +first setting-out, so that he really owes his Advancement more to his +Services and Merit, than to Fortune. After the Peace of _Ryswic_, he had +the Care of the King's Affairs at the Emperor's Court; but was recalled +from thence a little before the War began, upon Account of the Succession +to the King of _Spain_, _Charles_ II. When the War was declared, M. _de +Villars_, at that time Lieutenant-General, was in the Army in _Germany_, +commanded by the Marshal _Catinat_. The Marquis _de Villars_, with a +Detachment from the Army, attack'd the _Imperialists_ near _Fridlinguen_ +in 1702. The _French_ said, that he won the Victory; the _Germans_ say, +No. Which Party is in the Right, I can't tell; but be it as it will, the +Staff of a Marshal of _France_ was M. _de Villars_ Reward for the Battle. +The same Year the Duke of _Savoy_ entring into an Alliance against the two +Crowns, at the very Time that he assured them of his Attachment, the +Treaty which that Prince made with the Emperor and his Allies, was kept +secret for a while, tho' not so secret but the Elector of _Bavaria_ knew +of it; and his Electoral Highness reproaching the Envoy of _Savoy_ with +it, that Minister actually swore he knew nothing of the Matter, and that, +moreover, he did not believe it; upon which the Marshal _de Villars_, who +was present, clapp'd his Hand upon the Envoy's Shoulder, and repeated +this Verse to him out of _Racine_; _Tu ne le crois que trop, malheureux ++Mithridate+_, _i. e._ Ah! poor _Mithridates_! thou believest it but too +much. In 1704, the Marshal _de Villars_ was recalled from the Army in +_Germany_, to command in the _Cevennois_, where he gained Palms and +Olives, as well as Laurels; for by his good Nature and Moderation he +pacified a Rebellion, which the too great Severity of his Predecessor, the +Marshal _de Montrevel_, had but the more inflamed. + +After this, he had the Command of the Army in _Germany_, and kept it till +1709, when he went into the _Netherlands_ to relieve the Duke _de +Vendosme_, who was sent into _Spain_. M. _de Villars_, when in _Flanders_, +retriev'd the Honour of _France_, which had been sully'd there by several +Defeats. For tho' the _French_ suffer'd another at the Battle of +_Malplaquet_, yet they made so brave a Stand, that the Allies could not +help admiring their Courage. The Marshal _de Villars_, being wounded in +the Knee, was obliged to retire, and to leave the Command to the Marshal +_de Boufflers_, who drew off the Army in good Order. They give out, that +when the Marshal _de Villars_ heard the News, he said, _+Villars+ was not +there; he could not be everywhere_. The Allies paid dear for this Victory; +for they lost twenty-three thousand Men, besides a considerable Number of +Officers of Distinction. They might say as _Pyrrhus_ did, after the Defeat +of the _Romans_, _One more such a Victory, and I am undone_. The _French_ +lost eight thousand one hundred thirty-seven Men; and during the whole +Course of the War, there was not a more bloody, nor a more obstinate +Battle. + +The Campaign of 1712 was the most glorious to the Marshal _de Villars_, of +any that he ever made; for he therein gained the Victory at _Denain_, and +in two Months time took from the Allies what had cost them several +Campaigns. + +'Twas about the same time, that, upon the Death of the Duke _de Vendome_ +at _Vinaroz_ in _Spain_, _Lewis_ XIV. conferr'd his Government of +_Provence_ upon the Marshal, who was also made a Duke and Peer. They tell +a Story, that when he went to take Possession of his Government, and the +Deputies of the Province presented him with a Purse full of _Lewis d'Ors_, +One of 'em said, _Here_, my Lord, _is such another Purse as that we gave +to the Duke +de Vendome+, when, like you, he came to be our Governor; but +that Prince refus'd to take it_. _Ah!_ said the Marshal _de Villars_, +squeezing the Purse, _M. +de Vendome+ has not left his Fellow behind him_. + +The War in the _Netherlands_ being finish'd by the Peace at _Utrecht_, the +Marshal _de Villars_ had again the Command of the Army in _Germany_. When +he took his Leave of the King, he said to him, _I most humbly intreat your +Majesty to consider, that I leave you in the midst of my Enemies, whilst I +am going to fight yours_. He actually took _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, and +afterwards return'd to _Versailles_, to receive the King's Orders to go +and treat of a Peace with Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. During the Campaign +his Enemies told the King, in hopes his Majesty would blame him for it, +that he had laid out the Sum of 1800,000 Livres in the Purchase of an +Estate. The King asking him one Day at Dinner, if it was true that he had +made such a Purchase; _Yes, Sir_, replied the Marshal, who suspected that +those who told the King of it were then at the Table, _I have bought an +Estate which cost me 1800,000 Livres; and if the War continues, and your +Majesty trusts me with the Command of your Army, I hope to purchase a more +considerable one next Year at the Expence of your Enemies_. But instead of +making another Campaign, the Marshal went to _Rastadt_, where he and +Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ sign'd the Preliminaries of the Peace, which +those two Generals concluded afterwards at _Baden_ on the seventh of +_June_ 1714. Since that time the Marshal has always resided at Court. The +_French_ look upon him as the Restorer of their Reputation in the +_Netherlands_, the Support of the State, and the chief Captain of his +Time: He is loaded with Wealth and Dignities: He is a Duke and Peer, a +Marshal of _France_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight Commander of the +King's Orders, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Governor of _Provence_. +He has an only Son, for whom he has obtain'd the Reversion of his +Government[68]. + +Perhaps I have detain'd you too long about the Marshal _de Villars_; but I +thought the little Particularities I have given you would do you a +Pleasure, and that you would not be sorry to know some Circumstances of a +Man, who, after all, has been much cry'd-up in _Europe_. I shall be more +brief in my Account of the other Noblemen, and of these I shall name but +two or three, of whom you have heard some Talk, and such as are in most +Reputation with us. + +_James Fitz-James_ Duke of _Berwic_, a Peer and Marshal of _France_, a +Peer of _England_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight of the Garter, and of +the Golden Fleece, is the legitimated Son of _James_ II. King of _Great +Britain_[69]. He follow'd his Father to _France_, where he served with +Distinction. In 1706 he had the Marshal's Staff given him; and in 1707 he +commanded the Army of the two Crowns in _Spain_, where he defeated the +Lord _Gallway_ near _Almanza_. The King of _Spain_, to reward him for such +great Service, made him a Grandee of _Spain_, and gave him the Duchy of +_Liria_, which M. _de Berwic_ yielded to his eldest Son, who is actually +in Possession of it. In 1714 the Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_ reduc'd +_Barcelona_ under the Obedience of _Philip_ V. This City had refus'd to +acknowledge that Prince, and tho' abandon'd, and without any Hopes of +Relief, continued the War with an Obstinacy of Men who seem'd to be +desperate. The very Women, the Priests, Friers, all were Soldiers in +_Barcelona_; and during the Siege, which held sixty-one Days with open +Trenches, after a Blockade of eleven Months, there were five hundred and +forty-three Friers and Priests kill'd and wounded in the Sallies and +Attacks. The City was taken on the eleventh of _September_ by Storm: The +Battle lasted from Four o'Clock in the Morning till Eleven, when the +Inhabitants retir'd into the new Town, which is only separated from the +other by a single Wall. They surrender'd next Day at Discretion to the +Marshal-Duke _de Berwic_, who gave them a verbal Promise to save their +Lives, and to protect the City from Plunder, on their paying down a large +Sum of Money. _Barcelona_ being thus reduc'd, the Marshal return'd to +_France_ loaded with Wealth and Honours. Upon the Death of King _Lewis_ +XIV. he was admitted to the Council of the Regency, and sent soon after to +command in _Guienne_. The Regent gave him the Command of the Army against +the King of _Spain_, which his Royal Highness had before offer'd to the +Marshal _de Villars_; but that Nobleman told him, He would never draw his +Sword against a Prince who might one Day become his Sovereign, a Prince +for whose Service he had already spilt some Blood, and one for whom the +Kingdom had expended such a Treasure. The Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_, being +not so delicate, accepted of the Command, took _St. Sebastian_, and obey'd +the Regent much more than he was bound to do in Duty. + +For this he was continued in the Command of _Guienne_, and particularly of +_Bourdeaux_. For some time past the Marshal-Duke has been very much at +Court, and often at his Ducal Lordship in _Picardy_[70]. + +_Victor-Maria_ Duke _d'Estrees_, whom I ought to have mention'd before the +Duke of _Berwic_, as being the oldest Marshal of _France_, is +Vice-Admiral of the Kingdom, a Duke and Peer, a Grandee of _Spain_, a +Commandeur of the King's Orders, and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. He is +the last of his Family, which has been render'd illustrious by all the +great Dignities of the Kingdom ever since[71] the charming _Gabriella +d'Estrees_, who was Mistress to _Henry_ IV. He lives with as much Splendor +and Magnificence as most Noblemen in _France_: His House is open to all +Foreigners of Distinction, and Men of Knowledge and Learning are well +receiv'd in it. The Marshal has a fine Library, a most beautiful Cabinet +of Medals, and a complete Collection of antique Stones that are grav'd. +Besides the Estate of the Family of _Estrees_, of which he is the only +Head, he made great Acquisitions by _Missisippi_ Stock, and there are few +Sovereigns that have finer Diamonds. Since the Troubles that arose in +_Bretagne_ during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, the Assembly of +the States of that Province is always held by this Nobleman. The Nobility +of _Bretagne_ extol him very much, and find a great Difference between +their Treatment by this Marshal, and the rigid haughty Air with which the +late Marshal _de Montesquiou_ carried it to them during the Regency. Tho' +the Marshal _d'Estrees_ is very much attach'd to the Court, yet he is +often at _Paris_, where he has a very fine House, and is visited by the +greatest and the best People in the Kingdom. The Marshal's Lady, who is +_Noailles_, Sister to the Countess _de Tholouse_, was formerly a Lady of +the Bed-chamber to the Duchess of _Burgundy_; she has all the Politeness +of the ancient Court, and tho' she is past the Bloom of her Youth, she is +still one of the most amiable Women at Court, and by her Management there +is not a more agreeable Family than hers in the Kingdom. I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLII. + + + _SIR_, _Paris, May 22, 1732._ + +Yesterday I loiter'd away a good deal of Time with a Couple of +_Englishmen_, to whom, as they call it in _Italy_, I was a _Cicero_[72]. +Nevertheless, you must not expect me to give you an Account of every thing +I saw; and besides, so much has been already said of _Versailles_, that +you shall hardly find one Book in twenty, almost, but what treats of the +Beauties of this Royal Palace. + +After having shew'd my _English_ Gentlemen the Castle, the Chapel, the +Stables and the Park, I carried them to the Royal Abbey of _St. Cyr_, +which they had heard so much Talk of, that they long'd to see it: 'Tis a +grand stately House, and worthy of the Magnificence of the great Monarch +who founded it, at the Solicitation of Madame _de Maintenon_, for the +Education of two hundred and fifty young Damsels, whose Families are not +able to give them a Maintenance suitable to their Birth. Immediately after +the Demise of _Lewis_ XIV. Madame _de Maintenon_ retir'd to _St. Cyr_, and +there she always dwelt till she died. She went thither indeed, even +during the King's Illness, as soon as she found that the Physicians had +given him over; the King, however, contrary to all Expectation, recover'd; +and not seeing Madame _de Maintenon_, ask'd where she was: Upon this the +Lady return'd, when the King gave her a handsome Reprimand for abandoning +him, and desir'd her to stay with him as long as he had any Remains of +Life. Madame _de Maintenon_ obey'd, but the King's Breath was no sooner +out of his Body, than she took Coach, and went to _St. Cyr_, with a Design +never to stir from it as long as she liv'd. + +She had the Consolation, however, of receiving Visits there from all the +Princes and Princesses of the Blood; and even the late Madame the Regent's +Mother, who never visited Madame _de Maintenon_ in the King's Life-time, +thought she could not excuse herself from making her a Visit. The Regent +went thither likewise, and told her, she might depend upon his punctual +Regard to every Tittle that the late King had order'd in her Favour by his +last Will and Testament. Madame _de Maintenon_ return'd him Thanks, and +said, that as she was resolv'd to be retir'd for the Residue of her Life, +she desir'd but 40,000 Livres a Year for her Subsistance. Four Years after +this she died, and was interr'd in the Church of _St. Cyr_, in the Middle +of the Choir, in a Tomb of plain black Marble, with the following Epitaph +engrav'd on it; which I lik'd so well, that I have copied it Word for +Word, and send it to you, because I don't believe you have seen it +elsewhere. + + CY GIT + + _Tres baute & tres puissante Dame + Madame_ FRANCOISE D'AUBIGNE, + _Marquise de_ MAINTENON; + _Femme Illustre, Femme vraiment Chretienne; + Cette Femme forte que le Sage chercha vainement dans son Siecle, + Et qu'il nous eut propose pour modele, s'il eut vecu dans le notre. + Sa Naissance fut tres noble. + On loua de bonne heure son Esprit, & plus encore sa Vertu. + La Sagesse, la Douceur, la Modestie sormoient son Caractere, + Qui ne se dementit jamais. + Toujours egale dans les differentes situations de sa vie; + Memes Principles, memes Regles, memes Vertus. + Fidele dans les exercices de Piete, + Tranquille au milieu des agitations de la Cour, + Simple dans la Grandeur, + Pauvre dans le centre des richesses, + Humble au comble des honneurs; + Reveree de_ LOUIS LE GRAND, + _Environnee de sa gloire, + Autorisee par sa plus intime confiance, + Depositaire de ses graces, + Qui n'a jamais fait d'usage de son pouvoir, + Que par sa bonte. + Une autre Esther dans la faveur, + Une seconde Judith dans la Retraite & l'Oraison: + La Mere des Pauvres, + L'Asyle toujours sur des malheureux, + Une vie si illustre + A ete terminee par un mort sainte + Et precieuse devant Dieu. + Son Corps est reste dans cette sainte maison, + Dont elle avoit procure l'etablissement; + Et elle a laisse a l'univers + L'exemple de ses vertus. + Decedee le 15 d'Avril 1719. + Nee le 28 de Novembre 1635._ + + i. e. + + HERE LIES + + _The most high and most potent Lady_ + _The Lady_ FRANCESE D'AUBIGNY, + _Marchioness of_ MAINTENON. + _A Wife illustrious_[73], _a Woman truly Christian; + That virtuous Heroine whom the wise Man sought in vain in his Time, + And whom he wou'd have propos'd to us for a Pattern, if he had + liv'd in ours. + She was of Birth most noble, + Her Wit was early commended, and much more her Virtue. + Sobriety, good Nature and Modesty, form'd her Character, + From which she never derogated. + Always unchangeable in the various Situations of her Life; + The same Principles, the same Rules, the same Virtues. + Sincere in the Exercises of Piety, + Tranquil during the Storms at Court, + Plain in the Midst of Grandeur, + Poor in the Centre of Wealth,_ + _Humble at the Summit of Honours; + Rever'd by_ LEWIS LE GRAND, + _Environ'd with his Glory, + Vested with his most intimate Confidence, + The Depositary of his Favours, + Who never made use of her Power + But to do Good. + Another_ Esther _in Favour, + A second_ Judith _in Retirement and Prayer: + The Mother of the Poor, + The never-failing Asylum of the Unfortunate. + A Life so illustrious + Was cut off by a Death Pious, + And precious in the Sight of God. + Her Body lies in this Sacred House, + Of which she procur'd the Establishment: + And her Virtues she has left + To the World for a Pattern. + She departed this Life_ April 15, 1719. + _Being born the 28th of_ November 1635. + +My _Englishmen_ thought the Panegyric upon Madame _de Maintenon_ a little +too much strain'd. I confess that I think she is well equipp'd with a +Character; and if it be true, that she was as humble as her Epitaph +imports, I make no doubt, but if she had liv'd to see such an Encomium, it +would have put her Modesty sadly out of Countenance: For 'tis certain, +that this Lady had a very great Fund of Virtue and Piety; and I have heard +it said by Persons, who otherwise had no reason to be fond of her, that +'twas impossible to be acquainted with her, and not to esteem her. + +When I return'd from _St. Cyr_, I came hither to see M. _Voltaire_'s +Tragedy of _Brutus_, which is so fine a Piece, that I and my _English_ +Companions were charm'd with it: We not only admir'd the Conduct and +Versification of it, but we applauded the Freedom with which the Author +makes the _Romans_ think and speak. Mean time, the _French_ are not of our +Opinion. _The Respect due to Royalty_, say they, _is not well preserv'd in +it_. They censure the Author _for presuming to confine the Royal Authority +within the Bounds of Justice_. _M._ de Voltaire, say they, _never could +imbibe these Sentiments in_ France. _'Tis very plain that he contracted +them beyond Sea. They may be relish'd well enough by the_ English; _but to +us they are intolerable: And if M._ de Voltaire _goes on to write in this +Manner, he may, perhaps, have an Apartment in the_ Bastile. I confess that +terrible Name dumb-founder'd me, and I did not dare to say a Word in the +Author's Vindication, for fear of being deem'd his Accomplice. The +_Bastile_ and the _Holy Office_ are two Terms which always silenc'd me, +even when I have had the strongest Inclination to speak my Mind. + +As for the Comedians, they perform'd Wonders. One _du Frene_ actually +out-did himself. He is Brother to _Quinaut_, an excellent Comedian in the +Parts which require Humour, but excessively out-of-the-Way in Tragedy; and +take him off the Theatre, impertinent beyond Expression, as is also his +Brother, tho' they are both Men of Wit. + +The Players are much more respected here than they are elsewhere, which +makes them insolent to the last Degree. The Nobility are fond of their +Company, and admit them to their Parties of Pleasure: And as they are +Kings upon the Stage, and Equals and Companions at Table with the best +Lords in the Kingdom, no wonder that it turns their Brains. But that which +must needs render them arrogant beyond Measure, is a late Instance of +Regard paid them by the _French_ Academy, who, by a Letter, invited the +Performers in the _French_ Comedy, to hear an Oration made in their +Academy; which the Comedians took for such an Honour, that the very next +Day they offer'd the Members of the Academy Admission to their Comedy +_Gratis_; which the Academicians made no Scruple to accept, to the great +Amazement of the whole City of _Paris_, which blames the Members for it +not a little: The Fault is laid at the Door of certain Authors, who are in +League with the Comedians, and gave the Invitation without consulting the +rest of the Members, of whom several that had, no Hand in the Transaction, +protested against the Conduct of those who had, the Consequence of which +was a Quarrel in the Academy. Indeed, one would imagine by that Day's +Work, that they did not really consider what they were doing; and the +Noblemen who are Members of the Academy, cry out against it very much. +'Tis true, that the Comedians who presume to offer Admission _Gratis_ to a +Marshal _de Villars_, a Marshal _d'Estrees_, or other Noblemen of that +Rank, are not mean Fellows, and deserve the Appellation of the _Company +of_ Comedians, instead of _Troop_; in order to distinguish them from the +Strollers in the[74] Country. Why then should not they be honour'd? The +Actors in the Opera, who, as well as they, divert the Public for Lucre, +have, indeed, the Privilege, that a Gentleman may be admitted among them +without Disparagement to his Title. This is a Favour, says a modern Author +very justly, which had never yet been granted to those who perform in the +public Spectacles, and who give Diversion for Money; because in most of +the Ages of Christianity, they had been look'd upon as Persons +excommunicated and infamous, by reason of the Corruption in Morals, owing +to their then too licentious Representations, which, perhaps, is no longer +apprehended to be the Case at present. 'Tis certain, that if a Performer +in an Opera may be noble, I can't see why a Person mayn't be the same in a +Comedy; tho' 'tis my Opinion, that if Stage-players may be Gentlemen, +Rope-dancers and Tumblers have a Title to it; for, besides the Honour they +have of diverting the Public, they run the Risk of breaking their Necks +every Day; and is not that the Lot of the Nobility? + +As I returned Yesterday with my _Englishmen_ from _Versailles_, we went to +_St. Cloud_, where we had the Honour to see the Duke _de Chartres_, the +only Son of the Duke of _Orleans_. This Prince was in the Park, to see a +young Officer of the Train of Artillery make Proofs of some Pieces of +Ordnance. We were surpriz'd to see how attentively the young Prince +observed every thing, and to hear him ask the Officer such Questions as +were not to be expected from one of his Years. We had reason also to +applaud the gracious and polite Reception which he gave us. To be plain, I +was charm'd to see a Grandson of the late _Madame_, so worthy of herself, +and of the illustrious Blood from which he is descended. + +_St. Cloud_ is a Palace belonging to the Duke of _Orleans_, first Prince +of the Blood, and was built by Order of the late Monsieur _Philip_ of +_France_, (Brother of _Lewis_ XIV.) who added very magnificent Gardens to +it. 'Tis certain, that if the late King had chose _St. Cloud_ for his +Residence, instead of _Versailles_, he might have had a finer Building +with less Expence. What is most admir'd at _St. Cloud_, are the Gallery +and Salon, both painted by _Mignard_, the Cascade, and the great +Water-work, which throws up the Water a hundred Feet high, and which +nothing exceeds of the Kind, but the Work that was made by the Direction +of an[75]_English_ Gentleman at _Herenhausen_, near _Hanover_, in the +Reign of King _George_ I. + +_St. Cloud_ has been fatal to several Princes of the Royal Family. _Henry_ +III. was assassinated there on the first of _August_ 1589, at eight +o'Clock in the Morning, by _James Clement_. _Henrietta_ of _England_, +first Wife to the late _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, only +Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. died there suddenly of a Colic, on the 30th of +_June_ 1670. She said that she was poison'd, for which Reason the King +caus'd her Corpse to be open'd in Presence of the _English_ Ambassador. +'Tis a difficult Matter, to judge whether that Princess's Suspicions were +true; for the Physicians and Surgeons found all her noble Parts corrupted, +tho' she was but twenty-six Years old. Her Husband paid his Tribute to +Nature on a sudden, in the same Palace, on the 4th of _June_ 1701. + +What I have mentioned to you of the unhappy Catastrophe of the last of the +_Valois_, puts me in Mind of a Passage in History, that _Te Deum_ was +forgot in the Ceremony of his Coronation; that the Crown fell from his +Head; and that there was no Oil in the Sacred Phial, to perform the +customary[76] Unction; which were then taken for ill Omens, and Time +prov'd them but too true. + +Since I am upon Tragical Events, I will mention a Thing to you that lately +happen'd in _England_, and which I was assur'd by the _English_ Gentlemen, +in our Return from _Versailles_, is a certain Fact. + +One _Richard Smith_, a Bookbinder, and his Wife _Bridget_, were about a +Fortnight ago found hanging in their Chamber near their Bed-side, about +three or four Feet Distance from one another; and in the next Room, their +Daughter, who was but two Years old, was found shot thro' the Head. There +were three Letters left upon the Table, of which the following is the most +material; and I send you a Copy of it, because it will let you into the +_Stoic_ Character of the _English_ Nation. 'Tis directed to Mr. +_Brindley_, a Bookbinder at _London_, in that which is call'd _New +Bondstreet_. + +_Cousin_ BRINDLEY, + + 'These Actions, consider'd in all their Circumstances, being + somewhat uncommon, it may not be improper to give some Account + of the Cause, and that it was an inveterate Hatred we conceiv'd + against Poverty and Rags; Evils, which through a Train of + unlucky Accidents were become inevitable; for we appeal to all + that ever knew us, whether we were either idle or extravagant; + whether or no we have not taken as much Pains to get our Living + as our Neighbours, altho' not attended with the same Success. + We apprehend the taking our Child's Life away to be a + Circumstance for which we shall be generally condemn'd; but for + our own Parts, we are perfectly easy upon that Head. We are + satisfy'd it is less Cruelty to take the Child with us, even + supposing a State of Annihilation, as some dream of, than to + leave her friendless in the World, expos'd to Ignorance and + Misery. Now in order to obviate some Censures, which may proceed + either from Ignorance or Malice, we think it proper to inform + the World, that we firmly believe the Existence of Almighty God; + that this Belief of ours is not an implicit Faith, but deduced + from the Nature and Reason of Things: We believe the Existence + of an Almighty Being from the Consideration of his wonderful + Works, from a Consideration of those innumerable celestial and + glorious Bodies, and from their wonderful Order and Harmony. We + have also spent some Time in viewing those Wonders which are to + be seen in the minute Part of the World, and that with great + Pleasure and Satisfaction, from all which Particulars, we are + satisfied, that such amazing Things could not possibly be + without a first Mover, without the Existence of an Almighty + Being: And as we know the wonderful God to be Almighty, so we + cannot help believing but that he is also good, not implacable; + not like such Wretches as Men are, not taking Delight in the + Miseries of his Creatures; for which Reason we resign up our + Breaths unto him, without any terrible Apprehensions, submitting + ourselves to those Ways, which in his Goodness he shall please + to appoint after Death. We also believe the Existence of + unbody'd Creatures, and think we have Reason for that Belief, + altho' we don't pretend to know their Way of subsisting. We are + not ignorant of those Laws made _in Terrorem_; but leave the + Disposal of our Bodies to the Wisdom of the Coroner and his + Jury; the Thing being indifferent to us where our Bodies are + laid: From whence it will appear how little anxious we are about + a _Hic jacet_; we for our Parts neither expect, nor desire such + Honours, but shall content ourselves with a borrowed Epitaph, + _viz._ + + 'Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb, + Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb. + Where we were born or bred, it matters not, + Who were our Parents, or have us begot. + We were, but are not: think no more of us; + For as we are, so you'll be turn'd to Dust. + + 'It is the Opinion of _Naturalists_, that our Bodies are at + certain Stages of Life compos'd of new Matter, so that a great + many poor People have new Bodies oftner than new Cloaths: Now as + Divines are not able to inform us which of those several Bodies + shall rise at the Resurrection, it is very probable, that the + deceased Body may be for ever silent as well as any other.' + + Sign'd, + RICHARD SMITH. + BRIDGET SMITH. + +The Coroner's Inquest, after the usual Formalities, brought in their +Verdict, whereby they declared _Richard Smith_ guilty of that Crime, which +they call in _England_, _Felo de se_, or Self-Murder; and of Wilful Murder +as to his Child. _Bridget_ was brought in a Lunatic, tho' she had sign'd +the Letter with her Husband, and acknowledged that she was equally +concerned in the Murder of her Child; so that I think her Corpse deserved +hanging, at least for a little while: And sure I am, that she would not +have been found a Lunatic here. + +There being commonly some little Piece of Entertainment at the End of +Tragedies, I am now to divert you with some such Farce. 'Tis the Adventure +of a certain pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, with the Abbe _de Vayrac_, an +Author, and a Man of[77]Wit. Not many Days ago, as the Abbe was walking on +Foot, he was overtaken with a Shower of Rain, which made him take Shelter +under a Penthouse, at a Shop-door. At the same Time, who should pass by in +a magnificent Coach, driving at a mad Rate, as if he would run over every +Thing in his Way, but a Counsellor, whose furious Career was stopp'd all +on a sudden, by something that broke his Harness! This Disaster happen'd +just at the Place Where the Abbe _de Vayrac_ stood, dress'd like other +Authors, with an old tatter'd Hat upon his Head, and a shabby Cloak over a +Coat quite thread-bare. The Thing that most diverted the Counsellor, was +his Hat, and he order'd one of his Lacqueys to ask him, if it was not as +old as the Battle of[78]_Rocroy_. You must know, the Lacqueys of this +Country are more brazen-fac'd and insolent than they are any-where else; +and the Counsellor's discharg'd his Errand to a Tittle. M. _l'Abbe_, said +he, in a Droll Tone, _my Master wants to know in what Battle your Hat +receiv'd all those Wounds_. _At the Battle of_ Cannae, _Friend_, reply'd +the Abbe; and then he laid on five or six heavy Blows upon the impudent +Ambassador's Shoulders with his _Cane_. The Counsellor, seeing his +Domestic so soundly drubb'd, stepp'd instantly out of his Coach, and +running to the Abbe, said, _What are you doing?_ The Abbe reply'd very +sedately, _I am chastising Insolence._ _Parbleu_, M. _l'Abbe_, said the +Counsellor, _I think you are a pleasant Fellow to presume to strike a +Servant of mine! Surely you don't know me; for if you did, you would have +more Respect for my Livery._ _Pardon me_, reply'd the Abbe, _I know you +very well._ _And who am I?_ said the Counsellor. _Why you are a Fool_, +reply'd the _Abbe_; upon which the Gentleman thought fit to sneak off. +This is a very true Story; for I had it from the Abbe _de Vayrac_ himself, +who told it to me with the same Gravity as he had answer'd the Counsellor. + +Tho' Lacqueys are not commonly the Subjects of Conversation, yet I think +that those of _Paris_ deserve some Notice. They form so considerable a +Body, that there are many Kings who have not so numerous an Army. Besides, +these Fellows make such extraordinary Fortunes, and often rise so quick +from _Valets_, to be Masters and Gentlemen, that really they ought not to +be confounded in the Lump with the _European_ Lacqueys. Those of 'em who +set up for fine Fellows, as many of 'em do, (for in the Livery of _Paris_, +you meet with every Thing that is handsome and gay) such, I say, as are in +the Service of some young Noblemen, are commonly Equals and Companions +with their Masters. There are others who are the Darlings of the Fair Sex; +and if Satire may be credited, and Appearances, perhaps, into the +Bargain, there are Ladies even of the first Quality, who don't always +treat their Lacqueys like Servants. 'Tis true, they most commonly take +them out of the Livery, and in order to bring them near their Persons, +they make them their Pages, or _Valets de Chambre_. Nothing is thought too +good for these Favourites of _Venus_; they are rigg'd out like Princes, +and were you to see one of these fortunate Lacqueys, you would naturally +take him for some Person of Consequence. And indeed, there are some who +act the Man of Quality to such a Perfection, that nothing can exceed it; +and they have often better Manners than their Masters. The Airs of +Importance, and of Quality, are very natural to the _French_. There are +others of the menial Class, that enjoy the Favour of their young Masters, +in a Way so uncommon, that one knows not what to think of it; and many of +those young Gentlemen, forgetting the Respect that is due to their own +Persons, and their Families, make Parties at Supper with 'em, at which +Time, I fansy, Conversation is the least Part of the Entertainment. But +such is the Spirit of Debauchery, that it has infected the Generality of +the young People at Court; tho' 'tis true enough, that it ever was so. + +I don't say that excessive Debauchery is the universal Gout of the Nation; +for, on the contrary, the _French_ are virtuous from the Cradle to the +Grave, if they are but so happy as to get over the four or five Years of +juvenile Fury, and to surmount the tumultuous Passions which their great +Vivacity kindles in their Breasts, and prompts them to do Things at twenty +Years of Age, which at thirty they detest and abhor; and I affirm of the +_French_ in general, that they are not vicious by Inclination. The +Nobleman is infinitely more so, than the Bulk of the People; and whether +it is bad Company, bad Counsel, or whatever else that misleads him, he +thinks that to be debauch'd gives him a fine Air; and many of 'em really +boast of being greater Deboshees, than in Fact they are. + +But this does not seem to me to be the Case of the Women (I mean of those +who are not very rigidly attach'd to the Precepts of Virtue). They always +preserve an Appearance of Decency, which imposes on such as don't know +them: Nor is their Conversation licentious; and if they are naughty, 'tis +in private. 'Tis certain that our Countrymen don't do the _French_ Ladies +Justice. Many of our young Fellows, when they come home from _Paris_, +affecting to be Coxcombs, tell Stories so much to the Disadvantage of the +Fair Sex, that most of the _German_ Gentlemen, and especially of our +Ladies, think the Reverse of what they ought to do. Virtue and Modesty are +as eminent among the Sex here as elsewhere; and those Whifflers, that give +themselves the Liberty of scandalizing them, very often know not how to +call one Woman of Quality by her right Name, and even never saw her +Antichamber. 'Tis certain, that there are Women of Quality here, who have +laid aside the Mask; but of these there are so few, that the whole Sex +ought not to be reproach'd for their Misconduct. I give you my Word and +Honour, that there are fine young Ladies here, born to charm our Sex, whom +Calumny itself is obliged to respect; and I don't see what more can be +desired. I'll vouch the same for the young Gentlemen, of whom indeed, the +greatest Number is very much debauch'd, but there are some that have not +quitted the Reins of Modesty. A _Tremouille_, a _Luxembourg_, a +_Boufflers_, and many more, may be set up as Examples to our Youth, who, +perhaps, would be worse than the Youth of _France_, if they were enter'd +as young into Company, and seated in the Centre of Joy and Pleasures. But +I perceive, that instead of a Letter I am drawing a Case. Therefore here I +drop my Brief, and think my Epistle long enough to be concluded. I am +intirely Yours, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLIII. + + + _SIR_, _Paris, May 28, 1732._ + +I was puzzled some time ago, to think what could make the _French_ forget +Father _Girard_ and _la Cadiere_, and the pretended St. _Paris_; for I +apprehended, those two Articles would be the Subject of Conversation a +great while longer; but I was mistaken: 'Tis all forgot; and there's +something now upon the Tapis, of quite another Kind. + +The Archbishop of _Paris_ having thought fit to issue his Mandate for +suppressing a certain printed Paper, intitled _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, +(a Sort of Ecclesiastical News-Journal) the Parliament of _Paris_ was +disgusted, and made an Arret, condemning the Archbishop's Mandate. The +Court took the Prelate's Part, and declar'd all that was done by the +Parliament upon this Occasion, null and void. The Parliament standing up +mightily for its Privileges, which nevertheless it holds only by the good +Pleasure of its Kings, discontinued its Assemblies, and the King was +obliged to issue repeated Orders, before the Members would resume their +Business. Mean time the _Advocates_ and _Solicitors_ have thought fit to +espouse the Cause of the Parliament, and refuse to plead till the King has +_done Justice_ to the Parliament, ('tis their own Term) by preserving it +in the Possession of Appeals against Incroachments; which it has really +enjoy'd for many Years, and which is the Ground of the present Disputes. +The Parliament say, that they are the more justifiable in supporting this +antient Prerogative, because they are obliged to it in Conscience, and for +the Welfare of the State committed to their Charge. For, say they, what +would be the Consequence, were the Archbishop's Mandate to be authorized? +The Pope and the Bishops would, by Degrees, assume that Right which they +pretend to, of pronouncing Excommunications for very trivial Causes, and +even of putting the King himself under an Interdict, and consequently of +usurping a Temporal Despotic Power under the Umbrage of their Spiritual +Power, which, say the Parliament, is absolutely contrary to the Liberties +of the _Gallican_ Church; by Virtue whereof, 'tis sufficient for the +Parliament alone, in the like Case, to stigmatize and condemn those +_Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, as they have already done for a long Time. + +This is, in general, the Situation of Affairs, and the Substance of the +Arguments made use of by the Parliament for the Maintenance of their +Rights, which are stuff'd with Abundance of pompous Terms, such as the +_Obligations of Conscience_, the _Liberties of the_ Gallican _Church_, and +a thousand such Expressions, with which the very Hawkers make your Ears +ring as you go along the Streets. The Ladies too have for the present laid +aside all the Jargon of Dresses, to learn that Language; and she who us'd +to talk of Cornets and Gorgets, now assumes the Style of an Advocate, +pleads for _Gallican_ Liberties, overturns the Church, and sends the +_Sacred College_ and the _Bishops_ to the Gallies. In short, I can't +express to you, how ridiculous the _French_ are in these Cases. Being fond +of every Thing that's new, be it good or bad, they catch at it blindfold; +which is a plain Confirmation of the Inconstancy of these People, who are +so fickle, that I verily believe, if any one should take a Fancy to preach +_Mahometanism_ to them, they would embrace it with their usual Levity. + +The following, my dear Friend, is a Piece of Poetry, which, I think, is +good, and make no Doubt will please you. The Subject of it is, Christian +Tranquillity. If I can pick up any Thing new for you, before I go hence, I +will not fail to send it to you. I supp'd lately in a Place with M. _de +Voltaire_, and another Poet, the latter of whom rehearsed a very pretty +Piece to us, of which he refused to give us a Copy, pretending 'twas +imperfect; but however, he has promised it to me. When I have it, I will +send it to you. + + TRANQUILLITE CHRISTIAN + CHRETIENNE. TRANQUILLITY. + + Surles les Disputes du Tems. On the Disputes of the Times. + + Plein d'ignorance et de Miseres, Why wilt, audacious mortal Man, + Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux, So wretched, and so ignorant, + Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres On Mysteries dark and profound + Porter un oeil trop curieux! resume to cast an Eye too nice? + Toi, pour qui toute la Nature Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems + Ne paroit qu'une Enigme obscure, But an impenetrable Riddle, + Tu sondes les Divins Decrets? Pretend to fathom God's Decrees? + Tu croi que ton foible genie Think'st thou thy feeble Genius can + De l'Intelligence infinie The mighty Secrets e'er unfold + Pourra devoiler les Secrets? Of infinite Intelligence? + + Crains les tenebres respectables, Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades, + Ou Dieu cache sa Majeste; Where God his Majesty conceals; + De ses Desseins impenetrables For who the Veil can penetrate + Qui peut percer l'obscurite? Of his impenetrable Schemes? + Mesure la vaste etendue Measure the vast immense Extent + De ces Globes, qu'offre a la vue Of all those Globes that may be seen + Un tems serein et lumineux. In Weather most serene and bright. + Mais arrete ici ton audace, But here thy fond Presumption check; + Tu ne peux voir que la surface For thou nought but the Surface seest + De ce Theatre merveilleux. Of this Theatre wonderful. + + Ou t'emporte l'ardeur extreme Where will thy furious Ardor stop, + De tout comprendre, et de tout All Things to comprehend and see? + voir? + Tu ne te connois pas toi-meme: And know'st not what thou art + L'Esprit echape a son savoir; thyself, + Et la Raison imperieuse Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds: + De la Grace victorieuse Will then imperious Reason dare + Veut penetrer la Profondeur! Presume to penetrate the Depths + +Paul+, tout rempli de Of all-victorious Grace Divine? + sa Lumiere, Great Paul, in whom its + Nous apprend quelle est la maniere Light shone full, + Dont elle agit sur notre coeur. Explains to us the Manner how + Grace operates upon our Hearts. + + Je sens en moi que la Nature I feel within, that Nature's self + Veut etablir ma Liberte; To fix my Freedom makes Efforts; + Elle se plaint, elle murmure, And when her Power is controll'd + Quand son pouvoir est dispute. She murmurs inward, and complains. + Mais si j'interroge mon Ame But if my Soul I do but ask + Comment une celeste flame Which way a Flame celestial + La fait agir, la fait mouvoir; Induces it to act and move; + Je crains que cette Ame hautaine I fear this haughty swelling Soul + Ne donne a la puissance humaine, To human Power will ascribe + Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir. That which to Pow'r Divine is due. + + Surpris de l'Intervalle immense Astonish'd at the Space immense + Qu'on voit de l'Homme au Createur, Betwixt the Creature and Creator, + Si je n'admets une Puissance If I do not a Pow'r confess + Qui concourt avec son Auteur, Concurring with its Author, + Ce n'est plus pour moi qu'un Free Agency, or that Free-will + vain titre, + Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre, Of which my Reason so much vaunts, + Que ma Raison sais tant vanter: Is but for me an empty Plea: + Je ne connois plus de Justice, That Justice I no longer own, + Qui recompense et qui punisse, Which doth reward and punish too, + Ce qui ne peut rien meriter. What strictly neither can deserve. + + Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue Thus is my Soul held in Suspense + Entre les Sentimens divers. Betwixt Opinions contrary. + Par-tout ou je porte ma vue, Where-e'er my roving Eyes I turn + Je vous des Abimes ouverts. Abysses open to my View. + Pour me garantir du naufrage, For fear of being cast away, + Je n'ose quitter le rivage; I dare not quit the Sight of Shore; + La crainte assure mon repos. And 'tis this Fear my Peace secures. + Combien, dans cette Mer profonde, How many, in this Ocean deep, + Flottant a la merci de l'onde, Floating at Mercy of the Waves, + Se perdent au milieu des flots? Are by those Waves immerg'd + and lost! + + De tant de disputes fameuses, Let us the dang'rous Tracks avoid + Ou nous embarque notre orgueil, Of those Disputes but too + well known, + Fuyons les Routes dangereuse: In which our Pride engageth us: + L'Homme a Lui-meme est un ecueil; Man's to himself a fatal Rock; + Dans le petis Monde sensible, For in this little World of ours + Est un Dedale imperceptible, There is a Dadalus unseen, + Dont nous ignorons les Detours. Whose Windings are to us unknown. + La Foi de notre sort decide: 'Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide, + Elle tient le fil qui nous guide; She holds the Thread which + Sans elle, nous errons toujours. is our Guide; + Or else we always go astray. + + Heureux le coeur simple Happy that honest docile Heart, + et docile, + Qui sans raisonner sur la Foi, Which without reas'ning about Faith + Respecte dans nos Saints Conciles Our Holy Councils venerates, + Le sacre depot de la Foi; The Sacred Guardians of that Faith; + Ne franchissant point la Barriere, And dares not climb o'er that + Barrier. + Que le Pere de la lumiere Fix'd by the Father of all Light + Met aux vains efforts de l'esprit. Against proud Reason's vain Efforts. + A quoi nos soins doivent-ils + tendre? To what shou'd our Endeavours tend? + Est-ce a pratiquer, ou comprendre Is it to practice, or comprise + Ce que le Ciel nous a prescrit? The Things which Heaven + has prescrib'd? + + Laissons la Sagesse eternalle Let's to Eternal Wisdom leave + Disposer des coeurs a son gre: The sole Disposal of all Hearts: + Il suffit a l'Homme fidelle, The true Believer is content, + Que par lui Dieu soit adore. That God by him shou'd be ador'd. + Qu'importe a ces Docteurs habiles, What do these cunning Doctors gain, + Que par des Raisons trop subtiles Who by too subtle Arguments + Un Systeme soit combattu? A System strive to overthrow? + Que produit leur haute science, What does their Knowledge + great avail, + Si Dieu ne met dans la Balance If God but in the Balance cast + Que l'Innocence & la Vertu? Virtue and Innocence to turn + the Scale? + +It were to be wish'd, that every _Frenchman_ had the same Christian +Tranquillity; for then they would not worry one another as they now do, +nor would they give such a Scandal to _Europe_. But the Matter is push'd +so far, that I don't foresee how a Stop can be put to it. It will be +always a Worm preying upon the Vitals of _France_, and a Bone of +Contention between the Court and Parliament. + +Some Days ago, the Court banish'd the Abbe _Pucelle_, a Counsellor of +Parliament. This Man is another _Broussel_, and I believe, he would be +overjoy'd, if he could revive the ancient Barricades which were erected +during the Minority of _Lewis_ XIV. after the Queen Mother _Anne_ of +_Austria_ had caus'd that same _Broussel_ to be put under an Arrest. But +as yet there does not appear to be so much Rout about the Abbe _Pucelle_, +notwithstanding he made a very great Noise in Parliament. There he spoke +like an Angel, and every body said he defended the Liberties of the +_Gallican_ Church so well, that nobody could do it better. Nevertheless, I +am apprehensive, that he will be at a Loss how to vindicate his own +Liberty; and I am very much mistaken, if he has not a Lodging at +_Vincennes_, or the _Bastile_, before he dies. The Parliament leaves no +Stone unturn'd, that he may be recalled; and will do no Business at all, +till that dear Brother of theirs is restored. Mean time, all Affairs are +at a Stand, by which private Persons are the Sufferers: And yet these very +Counsellors, who make a Scruple of Conscience to register an Edict from +the King, which infring'd the ancient Privileges of the Parliament, don't +care what becomes of poor Widows and Orphans, that languish for the Issue +of a Process kept in Suspense by these Domestic Quarrels! In Truth, I +cannot but admire the good Nature of the King, and the Moderation of the +Cardinal _de Fleury_. I am sure, that the Regent, and the Cardinal +_Dubois_, would not have had so much Patience: For the former sent the +Parliament to _Pontoise_, and caus'd the Members to be arrested and +banish'd for a less Offence; and at the Time too, when the Parliament +remonstrated against the Alteration of the Species, in which the Fortune +of every _Frenchman_ was concerned. Hitherto all the Representations of +the Parliament for the Return of the Abbe _Pucelle_, have been of no +Effect; and I fansy, that the first President will be forced to make +another Trip to _Compiegne_, where the King has for some Time past +resided[79]. + +A Couplet has lately been made upon the Abbe's Exile: I don't remember the +Beginning of it, but it ends thus; + +_Que de bonnes gens vont pleurer!_ _Que de filles vont crier_, +_Rendez-nous_ Pucelle, _o gai_, _Rendez-nous_ Pucelle! + +_i. e._ + +How do the good Women lament! How do the Daughters cry, Give us back +_Pucelle_, Give us back _Pucelle_[80]! + +You must allow the _French_ are merry Mortals. Let what will happen, +they'll find something or other in it to divert them. Every thing is to +them a Subject for a Song; and I remember to have heard of a Ballad they +made and sung upon the Plague in _Provence_, in 1720. Mean time, these +Jarrings between the Court and Parliament have absolutely effac'd the +Memory of the blessed _Paris_. 'Tis true, he began to be out of Vogue, +after the Court caus'd the Church-yard of _St. Medard_ to be stopp'd up, +where he lies interr'd. If this had been done at first, a great deal of +Scandal would have been prevented. I am very sorry I can't stay to see +what will be the End of all these Things; but my Affairs call me to +_Germany_, whither I propose to set out the first Opportunity; therefore +write to me no more at present. + +Two Days ago, I saw such a Slur put upon the Charms of a young Lady, that +she was thoroughly mortified. 'Twas the Marchioness _de R----_, one of the +Ladies of the Bed-chamber. She has been us'd, for a long time, to daub her +Face very awkwardly, with a great deal of White, Red, and Patches; but on +that Day she out-did herself. She came into the Garden of the +_Thuilleries_, on Purpose to be admir'd; for she has the Reputation of a +very great Coquette: But she was hooted at by a great many smart Fellows +that follow'd her, and gather'd all the Mob about her, so that the poor +Lady was glad to retire; and being oblig'd to wait a little for her Coach, +was very much hiss'd into the Bargain by those prodigal Puppies the +Lacqueys; so that in my Life I never saw a Woman more run down. + +The same Night I supped with the Marquis _de L----_, whom I had never seen +before. I was told by a certain Lady, That he ow'd his Fortune to an old +Woman: For tho' he was a Man of a good Family, yet, being a younger +Brother, he was not rich. When he was twenty Years of Age, he pleased the +Marchioness _de L----_, who was threescore and ten, to such a Degree, that +she offer'd to marry him; and the Marquis, who was then but a plain +Gentleman, did not want very much Intreaty to accept the Proposal; for +tho' he was a Man of a handsome Presence, he did not presume to think that +any young Woman would fall in Love with him, who had one hundred and fifty +thousand good Livres a Year to her Fortune, which was what the Marchioness +really had to bestow upon whom she pleased. As the two Lovers return'd +from the Church of _St. Sulpice_, where they were married, the Marchioness +carried her Spouse to her own House; and leading him into an Apartment, +_You need not be afraid, Sir_, said she; _don't imagine that I married +you to toy with. This is your Apartment; mine is on the other Side of the +House. You shall lie here, and I'll lie in my own Chamber. I was willing +to make a Man of you, because I took you for a deferring young Fellow: But +this I could not do, without taking you to be my Husband; and I had rather +it should be said, that I am an old Fool for marrying a young Fellow, than +to give any Colour for reporting, that I keep you in Pay. 'Tis more +honourable both for you and me, that we are married; for now I can do what +I please for you without the Censure of the Public. This, too, is what I +have resolv'd on; and as I have no Relations, you may depend upon it, that +all I have in the World will be one Day or other your own. All the +Acknowledgment I desire of you, is some little Share in your Respect, and +I am persuaded you are too much of a Gentleman to use me ill._ Judge you +how much the Marquis was surprised, at a Speech which he so little +expected. He was ready to fall at the Feet of his Bride, and to give her +Proofs of his Ecstasy of Love, when she push'd him from her, and said, +_None of these extraordinary Fits, I beseech you, Sir; let us live +together like Friends: All the rest is superfluous._ In short, she gave +him to understand, 'twas her absolute Determination, that he should never +think of her as his Wife. The Marquis was obliged to comply; and after +having liv'd thus in perfect Harmony for seven Years, the Lady died, and +left her Husband Heir to all her Estate. + +The young Fellows undoubtedly stand the best Chance for the great +Fortunes. I had Engagements here, when I was but twenty-two Years of Age, +with an old Lady too, but she was not altogether to disinterested as the +Marchioness _de L----_; for tho' she was kind to me, she obliged me to a +great deal of Duty. This Lady of mine was forty Years older than myself; +yet what with Patches, and the Red and the White, her Charms were renewed +every Day to such a Degree, that 'twas well I was twenty-two Years of Age, +or else they would have frightened me. But fourscore thousand Livres a +Year, which I always kept in View, made me take that for natural, which +was only artificial; insomuch that if I had been put to my Oath, I know +not whether I should not have sworn that my superannuated Mistress was but +in her Teens. We lived a couple of Years together very lovingly. The Lady +happened to have two Sons living, old enough both of 'em, to be my +Fathers; yet she did not despair of having another Brood. For this End she +proposed Matrimony to me, and I freely consented. But my Sons-in-law _in +futuro_, being advertised, by whom I know not, where I had appointed a +Meeting with their Mother, came and fell at her Feet, and conjured her not +to wrong them and their Children, (for they were both married) by marrying +me. The Lady was stagger'd in her Resolution, and was just going to +promise her Sons, that she would not have me; when I came to her in the +Nick of Time, and so encouraged her by my Presence, that she got the +better of her Weakness. + +Mean time, the Sons sprung a new Mine, which answered their End. Their +Mother was a Coquet, but one of the pious Sort, and devoted that Time to +God, which she did not spend with me, or at her Toilet. The Sons detached +a Priest of _St. Sulpice_ to her. The holy Man chose his Opportunity when +I was abroad. I did not foresee, that a Blow would come from such a +Quarter; or else the _Swiss_, and all her Domestics, being my Creatures, I +could easily have kept him out of the House. He discharged his Commission +so effectually, that he prevailed to have the Signing of the Marriage +Articles, which were to have been executed the very next Day, put off for +three Months longer. I was not very much chagrin'd when I heard this News; +for I confess, I flatter'd myself, that 'twas not possible for the Lady to +escape me. By the Description I have given you of my Sweetheart, you will +imagine that I was not over Head and Ears in Love. Whatever Scruple the +Priest of _St. Sulpice_ had raised in her, she carried it to me the same +as ever: We still liv'd very lovingly together, and I had considerable +Presents made to me, which I squandered away as fast as I received. At the +same Time, I did not dare to mention any Writings for my Security; and to +talk to a Mistress of threescore Years and ten, about making her Last Will +and Testament, was, I thought, a strange kind of Courtship, and the Way to +spoil all. + +Nevertheless, this Misfortune fell upon me, when I least of all expected +it. As I went one Morning into my Dear's Chamber, I found her at her +Toilet, complaining of a great Pain in her Head. She told me, That she was +in a sad Quandary too, because she had invited People to Dinner, but was +not in a Condition to keep them Company; and she desired me, therefore, to +do them the Honours of her House: But I prevailed with her to send Word to +those whom she had invited, that she was ill, and that she should be glad +to see them another Time. I then left her, with a Promise to come back and +dine with her; and having taken a Walk, I returned accordingly; when I +found her dress'd more gay than usual. She told me, that a Dish or two of +Coffee had quite remov'd her Head-ach, and that she had trick'd herself up +to please me. We din'd together, but she eat very little, and began very +soon to complain again; so that I made her lie down upon the Bed, and +taking a Book in my Hand, I sat down by her to read, while she rested: But +all on a sudden, I felt her lay hold of my Hand, and as I turned about to +her, my Mistress gave my Hand a Squeeze, and that Instant expir'd. I +called for Help, and both Surgeons and Physicians came, by whose Order she +was blooded; but 'twas to no Purpose: For _there's no returning from the +Shore of the Dead_. + +This Accident so surprized me, that I did not so much as think of securing +my own Effects; but went into my Room, and presently I was given to +understand, that one of the Sons of the Deceased was come with an Officer +to seal up all her Effects. I did not in the least oppose it, nor, indeed, +had I any manner of Title to dispute it. But my Good-nature only made the +Son the more insolent; for he even came into my own Apartment, to seal up +such Effects as belong'd to me. I told him, that if he did not withdraw, I +would make my Servants, and those of the Deceased, who had all a Respect +for me, turn him out. During this, the late M. _de N----_, a Counsellor of +Parliament, who was very much my Friend, came to see me, who advised me to +quit my Quarters with all Speed, and to pack up every Thing that belong'd +to me immediately. He also offer'd me Room in his House for my Furniture, +and other Effects; which Offer I accepted, and in a few Hours every Thing +of mine was clear'd off of the Premises. The Sons, after this, threaten'd +to enter an Action against me; but as they had no Proof of any Thing that +I ow'd to their Mother, they did not presume to molest me. If I had been +of the Temper then, that I am now, I should not have so soon forgot the +Loss I suffer'd; for, besides a good She-Friend, which is a rare and +precious Thing, I lost the Hopes of a splendid Fortune. + +I know not how it came into my Head, to entertain you with my _quondam_ +Amours. But 'tis a Vein of Prating which I am indulg'd in, more by you +than by any body. Farewel, my Dear, you will hear no more of me about this +Country, for I am preparing to quit it the very first Opportunity. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLIV. + + + _SIR_, _Brussels, June 4, 1732._ + +When I left _Paris_, I kept on the Pavement all the Way to Chantilly, +which may pass for the finest Seat in the Kingdom, since the great +Additions made to it by the Duke of _Bourbon_, who is the Lord of it. The +Forest likewise, of _Chantilly_, is as fine as any thing that ever Art and +Nature form'd. 'Tis a magnificent Palace, the Stables are stately, and the +Park is adorned with the finest Pieces of Water in the World. _Lewis_ XIV, +who was always very desirous of being the Master of this House, wanted to +purchase it of the late Prince. The latter made Answer to him, That it was +at his Service, only he begged him, he would make him the Keeper of it +from that Moment. The King perceived, that the Prince resigned it to him +with some Reluctance, and therefore spoke no more of it. + +The Duke _de Bourbon_, who is certainly the richest Prince in _Europe_, +that is not a Sovereign, lives very much at CHANTILLY, since he is no +longer in the Ministry. There is always a very numerous Court, and he +lives there more like a King, than a Prince of the Blood. + +After having walked sufficiently about _Chantilly_, I went and lay at +_Senlis_, and next Day arrived in good Time at CAMBRAY, a City famous upon +several Accounts; but its Beauty does not answer its Reputation. +_Cambray_, the Capital of the _Cambresis_, was formerly an Imperial City, +and its Archbishop was a Sovereign and Prince of the Empire. _France_ +having seized _Cambray_, there remains nothing more to the Archbishop, of +so many fine Prerogatives, but the empty Title of a Prince of the Empire; +which he still retains, tho' he has no Vote nor Session at the Diet. Since +1712, that I came for the first Time into _France_, the Church of +_Cambray_ has had four Archbishops. I then found the See possessed by the +Illustrious _Francis de Salignac de la Mothe Fenelon_, Preceptor of the +late Duke of _Burgundy_, Father of _Lewis_ XV. He had for his Successor +_John d'Estrees_; but the latter died before he had taken Possession of +the Archbishoprick. The celebrated Cardinal _Dubois_ succeeded to him; but +he did not enjoy that Dignity long, for he died at _Versailles_ the 10th +of _August_ 1723. The Abbe _de S. Albin_, the natural Son of the Duke of +_Orleans_, the Regent, was appointed Archbishop of _Cambray_ at an Age +when he had need of Dispensations from _Rome_, to qualify himself for that +Dignity. + +I think 'twill not be impertinent to make some little mention of the +Cardinal _Dubois_, and, perhaps, you will not be sorry to hear a few +Particulars of him. In the first Place, these were his Titles; William +_Cardinal_ Dubois, _Priest Archbishop and Duke of_ Cambray, _Prince of +the Holy Empire, Count of the_ Cambresis, _Abbat of_ St. Just de Nogent +_under_ Couffy, _of_ Bourgueil, Airvaux, Cercamps, St. Winoxberg, _and_ +St. Bertin _of_ St. Omer; _Principal and Prime Minister, and Secretary of +State for Foreign Affairs_; _Great Master and Superintendant General of +the Couriers, Posts and Relays of_ France; _one of the forty Members of +the_ French _Academy and that of the Belles Lettres_: _And chose by the +Prelates and other Deputies at the General Assembly of the Clergy of_ +France, _to be their first President_. + +The Cardinal _Dubois_ was not of extraordinary Extraction, but was born +with great Talents, and an uncommon Genius. He was Preceptor to the Duke +of _Orleans_, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; which was the Reason that +the Prince and he were so well acquainted with each other's Thoughts, that +the least Sign given by the One, was understood by the other. The Abbat +_Dubois_ was employed in the Negociations of Peace in _England_, and at +_Utrecht_. When the Duke of _Orleans_ came to be Regent, he sent him to +take care of the King's Interests at the Court of King _George_ I. of +_Great Britain_; with whom he concluded the famous Treaty of the Quadruple +Alliance. When the King came of Age, the Regent being desirous to have a +first Minister that he could confide in, chose the Abbat _Dubois_, whom he +first made an Archbishop, and then obtain'd a Cardinal's Hat for him. 'Tis +said, that the Cardinal was beginning to forget his Obligations to his +Benefactor, and thinking to shake off all Submission to him, when he died +at _Versailles_, after having enjoyed his splendid Fortune but a few +Years. His Illness was of no long Continuance, but very painful. _La +Peyrome_, the King's chief Surgeon, made an Operation upon him for a +Disorder which the Cardinal's Enemies ascribe to his Incontinence, before +he was Archbishop. He dreaded the Operation very much, and was loth to +undergo it, tho' the Surgeons assured him, that nothing else could save +his Life. The Duke of _Orleans_, to whom the Minister's Life was dear, +made use of his Authority, and obliged the Cardinal to submit to the +Operation, which did not answer his Royal Highness's Hopes; for in a few +Days after it, his Favourite died. The Eagerness with which the Duke of +_Orleans_ seized the Ministry, confirmed the Public in their Opinion, that +the Cardinal had entertained a Thought of asserting his own Independency. + +The Cardinal was not much lamented; for he was blunt, violent and +outrageous; which was not the Way to acquire the Good-will of a Nation, +which loves that Decency and Politeness should be kept up in every Thing. +Satire, or, if you please, Calumny, gave it out, that the Cardinal was +married at _Tours_, when he was made Archbishop, and that his Wife liv'd +in that City; that he gave it in Charge to M. _de Breteuil_, the Intendant +of _Tours_, to prevail upon her, if possible, not to discover that she was +his Wife; but that she refused to relinquish the Advantage; that thereupon +M. _de Breteuil_ sent for the Parish Register where the Marriage was +solemnized, and tore out the Leaf in which their Names were entered; and +that the Woman was going to make a great Noise, but was threatened with +Confinement, and by that Means obliged to be silent. + +I will not engage for the Truth of all, or any Part of this Story; but +'tis what the scandalous Chronicle has given out, and what has reach'd +even to _Rome_; so that when it was told to the late Pope, with a great +many other Passages concerning the Cardinal, he was heartily vexed, that +he had advanced him to the Purple; and I have been assured, that it was +such a Grief to the Holy Father, that it help'd to shorten his Days. + +The Duchess _de F----_ was with the Cardinal one Day, when being in one of +his sullen Moods, his Eminency, in plain Terms, bade her _go and pick +Violets_. The Lady complaining of him to the Duke of _Orleans_, the +Regent, the Prince made Answer, _You are much in the right_, Madame; _the +Cardinal_ Dubois _is a Brute, but, nevertheless, he has a good +Head-piece_. + +This Cardinal made a Compliment of much the same Nature to the Cardinal +_de Noailles_, who telling him one Day as he came from an Audience of the +Duke of _Orleans_, That the said Prince would not give Ear to his +Representations, but bade him _go and ---- himself_, you understand the +rest; the Cardinal _Dubois_ made Answer, _And really, Brother, the best +Thing your Eminency can do, is to obey_. + +These Stories put me in mind of another that was current all over _Paris_, +a little after the Cardinal _Dubois_ was advanced to the Purple. The +Lacqueys of these two Cardinals happening to be at a certain Place +together, they had a Dispute about their Master's Pre-eminency. _Our +Master_, said the one, _is the oldest Cardinal, Duke and Peer, and a +Commander of the Kings Orders_. The others said, _Ours is a Prince of the +Empire, Duke of_ Cambray, _and Prime Minister_. _Ours_, replied the +former, _consecrates Bishops; therefore, to be sure, he has the Preference +above the Cardinal_ Dubois---- _A very pretty Argument this!_ said one of +_Dubois's_ Lacqueys, _Why, if there's any thing in Consecration, my Master +is the greater Lord, in that respect too: For yours may consecrate +Bishops, but mine consecrates G-d every Day of his Life._ And, indeed; if +the Fellow meant his Master's Swearing by all that's Sacred, he was not +in the wrong; for the Cardinal had a very bad Habit of Swearing, like any +Grenadier. + +The Cardinal left no great Estate behind him; and whether it was owing to +his Disinterestedness, or to his want of Time to amass Wealth, his Fortune +being but of a short Duration, his Heirs had not much Reason to rejoice at +his Death. The Duke of _Orleans_ soon forgot him, and nothing preserved +his Memory so long in _France_ itself, but certain Satires and Epitaphs +made upon him by the Wits; which might have been transmitted, perhaps, to +Posterity, if there had not been too much Gall in them. The Cardinal +_Dubois_ lies interr'd in the Church of _St. Honore_, where his Brother +was a Canon. This Clergyman set up a Marble Tomb for him, where the +Cardinal is represented on his Knees, inclin'd towards the Altar of the +Choir, but his Head seems to turn from it; upon which the Critics remark, +that he durst not, since his Death, look towards what he had profan'd in +his Life. + +The Cardinal _Dubois_ obtained in Favour of _Cambray_, that the Congress +should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor +and _Spain_. The _French_ made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how +much it was to the Honour of the Duke of _Orleans_, that all the Powers of +_Europe_ should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his +Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of +_Soissons_. _They are come_, said the Court-Flatterers, _into our own +Country, to desire Peace of us_. They were not so modest as the Allies +were heretofore; for when _Lewis_ XIV. sent his Ambassadors to _Aix la +Chapelle_, _Nimeguen_, _Ryswic_, _Gertruydenberg_, _Utrecht_, _Rastadt_, +&c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the +_French_ always said, _That they gave Peace to Europe_. Be this as it +will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses +that were held in their Country; which tho' both were opened with a World +of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of _Vienna_, concluded +the 19th of _April 1725_. O. S. put a Period to the _Cambray_ Congress; +the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to +nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the +maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron _de Ripperda_, +afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of _Spain_, and also Prime Minister +to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so +tir'd with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of _Cambray_, that he went to +_Vienna_, with the Name of the Baron _de Puffenberg_, and established so +strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was +never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House +of _Austria_ possessed the Throne of _Spain_. This very much eclipsed the +Glory of the Congress of _Cambray_, and the Congress of _Soissons_ +received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of _Seville_. + +From _Cambray_, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in _French +Flanders_, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The +Governor of it is the Prince _de Tingry_, who is the Son of the famous +Duke _de Luxembourg_, the Marshal of _France_; whose Honour our Writers +have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence +with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means. +The Prince _de Tingry_ distinguished himself very much during the last +War, by the Name of the Chevalier _de Luxembourg_. He contributed a great +deal to the Support of _Lisle_ when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy +of Powder into it in the Night-time. He is look'd upon by all the +Officers, as one of the chief Generals in _France_. Considering his Birth, +Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the +Marshal's Staff a long time ago; and 'twas thought he would have been +included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out[81]. He is +now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his +Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours +to myself. + +Mons, the Capital City of _Hainault_, is not so large a City as +_Valenciennes_, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a +_French_ Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke +_d'Aremberg_ is Governor both of this City, and of _Hainault_, of which he +is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at _Brussels_, and never comes +into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This +Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and +Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of _Hainault_, and of the City of +_Mons_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the +Halbardiers of the Emperor's Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he +received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King _Charles_ +II. after his Father had been killed in _Hungary_. He is the only Nobleman +in all the _Netherlands_, that has recognized the House of _Austria_ +alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late +Marquis _de Grana_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, prevented him from +engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the Advantages that +were offered to her on the Part of _Philip_ V. After the _Netherlands_ +were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of +_Ramillies_, the Duchess _d'Aremberg_ and her Son were the first to +acknowledge King _Charles_ III. The Son had a _Flemish_ Regiment in that +Prince's Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under +my Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas under him and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_, +that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his +Valour, but particularly at the Battle of _Belgrade_. 'Tis certain, that +if the Duke had stay'd longer at _Vienna_, he would have had some +important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for +a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders +a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ +lov'd and esteem'd him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to +improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of +_Brussels_, to the Tumult of the Court of _Vienna_. + +I don't mention the Battle of _Malplaquet_, which was fought in the +Neighbourhood of _Mons_; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure, +have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of +upon other Occasions. + +From _Mons_ to _Brussels_, there's a famous Causey. We pass thro' _Halle_, +whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and +has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the +House of _Austria_ have made great Presents. + +The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is +the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally +old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house, +there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience +of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and +down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called +the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care +taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter'd with Dirt, or +choak'd with Dust. + +The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious +Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look +like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not. +The Archduchess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of +_Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Nassau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder +of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness +prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more +spacious and commodious, tho' 'twas offered her by the Duke _d'Aremberg_, +who is the Proprietor of it. + +This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which +was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were +preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give +the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the +Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it +without any Noise, but it mastered them. 'Twas four Hours, however, before +it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the +Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had +been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion, +and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such +Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the +Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the +whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle; +for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when +she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant, +her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a +Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment +that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog, +and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in +her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to +retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempre_, her Master of the Horse, +whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed +to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so +much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which +they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for +_Rubempre's_ House was so near her own, that 'twas fear'd the Fire would +have reach'd it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of +_Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of +her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempre_ furnished +her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with Shifts and other +Apparel; and 'twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended +from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the +Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the +Plate. + +Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary +Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually +encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily +grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d'Uhlefeldt_, Lady of +the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This +unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by +the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was +snatch'd as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched +from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the +Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy +the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her +Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The +whole Court was charm'd, to see with what Resignation she bore her +Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God +had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness +honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be +performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at +which all the Nobility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry +for the Loss of her. + +In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess's +Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a +Gold Toilet, were missing. + +The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor's three Sisters. She is +jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and +majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but +with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into +the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro' _Louvain_, she returned an Answer +in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that +Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine +Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of +Virtue and Piety. 'Tis impossible for any one living to be more +charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the +Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour +at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a +Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she +bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her +most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that 'tis no manner of +Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her. + +The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at +_Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies +wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her, +and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least +Disgust with any of her Domestics. + +Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a +_Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity +and Sincerity, impossible to be byass'd by any thing but Justice, a good +[OE]conomist, and always disinterested. Tho' the People of this Country +are not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they +all agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is +pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of +Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to +every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by +Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He +is good-natur'd, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an +extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is +universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt +as his Master. + +M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be +relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person +of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a +Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho' he +had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the +Emperor's Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to +him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor's +Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent +Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first +Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in +order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess. +I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is +affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves +Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his +Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please +the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out +a great deal of Money with 'em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of +_Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince +expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from +_Bavaria_. _The Archduchess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing, +and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this +Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred +thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their +Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her +most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well, +and keeps out of every body's Debt; which is what can't be said of any +Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from +these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make +Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to +every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few +that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master +would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of +_Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight +or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one +that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now +Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding +the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the +advantageous Alterations he made in the Government. + +The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the +World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing. +The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege +of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg'd that Liberty, +but 'twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as +they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with +the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _'Twas +very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archduchess _at_ +Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archduchess _at_ +Brussels. + +The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose +Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of +being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but +they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged, +that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this +Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not +Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to +the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as +well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim'd the +Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually +presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better +instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and +told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to +come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and +for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at +Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were +apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now +do as they ought. + +The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are +some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many, +who, tho' they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to +prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they +were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_, +_Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important +Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve, +it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the +Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _'tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the +Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so +unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don't mention it +to us. There's not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all, +have Reason on their Side: For many of 'em, tho' they have never served +the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to +Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the +_Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to +blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to +receive their Reward. + +It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho' few of the _Flemings_, under +whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_, +go to _Vienna_, 'tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The +Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they +live therefore with very great [OE]conomy, like private People. They +seldom make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of 'em keeps an open Table. +Yet there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_ +itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_, +formerly assumed only the Title of _Excellency_; but since they have been +under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and +_Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the Title of _Highnesses_, which is +given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it +with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d'Aremberg_ is the only +Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho' he is the +Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it. + +_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of +_la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the +_Netherlands_. When this Nobleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very +great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality, +and 'tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a +Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and +gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons +of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a +Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but 'tis attended with Envy. The +Prince _de la Tour_, tho' not a Sovereign, is nobly ally'd. His Mother was +a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a +Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince +_Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or +Nobility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong. +I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho' those of _la +Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity +of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so +long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can't help thinking, +that a Family, which has been ally'd for many Generations with the +greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the +Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank'd among our best Families in _Germany_. + +Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the +Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very +natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it +were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted +are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_ +discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that 'tis not surprising +that she should honour her with her Confidence. + +I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not +very gay, and I'll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull +Taste. There's a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is +horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so +when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady, +there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time +of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing +falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace, +Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very +great Perfection. _Lenir_'s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest +for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with +it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince +_Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor +_Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_, +_France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine +Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the _Israelites_ +worshipping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law. +The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has +made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent +the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the +Town-house, and worth seeing. + +Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor's Troops +in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised +by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is +descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes +the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has +gone thro' all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great +Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners +very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary +Expence. + +The Governor of _Brussels_ is the Marshal _de Wrangel_, a venerable old +Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has +gone thro' all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very +rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good +Table. + +The Prince _de Rubempre_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most +distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the +Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman, +and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_. + +The Prince of _Nassau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness's Band of +Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger +Brother of the Prince of _Nassau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of +_William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, assumed the Title of Prince of +_Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to +the King. The Prince of _Nassau_, of whom I here make mention, was also +formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis +_de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the +Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but +his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he +holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the +Golden Fleece. + +I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so +well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are +continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to +you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial +Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have +the Honour to be, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLV. + + + _SIR_, _Liege, June 28, 1732._ + +From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of +_Flanders_, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_. +The _Scheld_ passes thro' the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided +into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Canals. 'Tis very +large in Circumference, insomuch, that 'tis reported, the Emperor +_Charles_ V. us'd to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86]. +This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained +in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is +decay'd, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The +Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most +notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were +severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their +Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed +through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused +twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a +greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away +their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a +Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a +Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of +its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns. + +The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp, +broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it +very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place: +Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say, +that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep +_Ghent_ than _Brussels_. + +I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have +been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some +of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron +_de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a +Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de +Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess, +Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and +is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amusements there are in this Town, I +cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no +Pleasures here but what must be insipid. + +I went in the Bark along the Canal from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the +most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a +good Room, and with Company very happily mix'd. At Noon we had a Dinner +served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_; +where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. 'Tis a Rule in this Bark, for +the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts +pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of +Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of +the Juice of the Grape. + +BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues +from the Sea, upon the Canal of _Reye_; which being divided into several +navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes +to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to _Bruges_ +of four hundred Tons. 'Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho' 'tis +considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at +_Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one +of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent +Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and +open, with several large Squares, and there's no want of Inhabitants; but +they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. 'Tis a hard matter for +a Foreigner to get acquainted with 'em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally +unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a +_German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of +_Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of +being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at +_Brussels_. And, as I don't care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately +to OSTEND. + +This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three +Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company +established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_, +however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for +Pleasures. 'Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable +that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very +strong: 'Tis encompass'd with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks, +and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due +Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have +been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every +Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and +_England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the +_Netherlands_. + +NEWPORT, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_. +'Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify'd, and can lay the Country +under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a +Degree, that there's never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one +time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid +unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the +Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to +do with their Time. + +As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one +of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all +_Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in +Holland, and damask'd Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its +Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a +Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M. +_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals. The +second is M. _Dickson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel's Commission, and +is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he +is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons +of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to +Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the +Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one +another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house, +where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I +dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly, +as to squeeze the Breath out of one another's Bodies. + +I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns +belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Nassau +Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the +_Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this +Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier +Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor, +and also to the States General his Masters. But I can't imagine how he +would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War +should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may +be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the +_Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring +her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the +most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they +were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that +the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill +defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there +was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it +to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the +Breach, was answered, That 'twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless +he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the +Gate. There's no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and +some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit. + +LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a +City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. 'Tis a large, +fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav'd. It +has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which +discover its Riches. There's a new Town-house building here, in a bad +Situation; but when finish'd, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de +Bousslers_, whose Father acquir'd great Glory by his vigorous Defence of +_Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine +handsome young Nobleman, tho' of an under Size. He applies very much to +the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in +that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body +speak well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I +found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and +amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too +liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all +her young Noblemen were like to him. + +There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de +Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late +Duchess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the +Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there's abundance +of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than +ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another +upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In +Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living +here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions. + +You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies +retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the +Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the +King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of +_Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Cassel_, puts one in +Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of +_Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_ +and its Chatellany to the Emperor. + +Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there's a Concourse to it +from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the +Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and +embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much +delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call'd me back to _Germany_, I +should have stay'd here some time longer. + +I return'd again thro' _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_, +surnam'd the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low +Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _Noble_, _Ghent_ +the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the +_Strong_; and so of the rest. + +ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_, +stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our +Lady's Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is +worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which 'tis adorned. The +Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller's Attention. +This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening +in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in +Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their +Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent +Chapels, are still to be seen. + +The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of +_Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil +Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them. + +_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. 'Twas formerly a City +of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its +Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is +incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came +to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak'd up by +Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the +_Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_. +Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely +rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac'd and +embroider'd Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to +the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at +_Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There's a charming +Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend +there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that +is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together, +you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment. + +The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals, is Governor of +_Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his +House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he +appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_, +when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of +Cardinal _Alberoni_. + +This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of _Antwerp_; from whence I +went to MECHLIN, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth +seeing. The Cardinal _de Bossu_, Brother of the Prince _de Chimay_, is its +Archbishop, and the only one in the _Netherlands_, belonging to the House +of _Austria_. You know, that at _Mechlin_ is held the Sovereign Council or +Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and +Solicitors here, and hears so many of the Quirks of the Law. There are +few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting. + +The Causey between _Mechlin_ and _Louvain_ is a new Piece of Work. Before +this was cast up, the People of _Mechlin_ were obliged, in the +Winter-time, to go thro' _Brussels_, in order to avoid the bad Roads, +which was a great Way about. + +LOUVAIN is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students, +Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I +only pass'd quite thro' the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and +I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are +the most unpolish'd of all the _Netherlands_. One of the grand Privileges +of the University of _Louvain_, is a Nomination to a great Number of +Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of +the _Netherlands_, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence, +that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments +they have no Knowledge. Mr. _Strickland_, by Birth an _Englishman_, and +Bishop of _Namur_, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair +determined at _Rome_. But I'll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more +than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money. + +There's a very good Pavement from _Louvain_ to _Tirlemont_, which is a +Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so +that I brush'd thro' it, and went and lay at MAESTRICHT, one of the best +and strongest Places in _Europe_, belonging to the _Dutch_; to whom +_Spain_ abandoned it by the Peace of _Munster_. The _French_ Army took it +in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The _Dutch_ +Propriety in it was recogniz'd by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and they +maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince _William_ +of _Hesse Cassel_, Brother to the King of _Sweden_; but since the Death of +the Landgrave of _Hesse_, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the +said Landgraviate, resides no longer at _Maestricht_; which is a Loss to +this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv'd with all the Dignity +answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during +his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] _d'Amerongen_. + +The Walks about _Maestricht_, especially those on the Ramparts, are +charming; for there's no want of good Company, and 'tis the genteelest of +all the Garisons that belong to the _Dutch_. 'Tis a very pretty Town, with +beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well +as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is +remarkable in all the Towns of _Holland_. The _Maese_ passes thro' this +Town, and over it there's a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured +for a Truth, the late Marshal _d'Auverquerque_, when a young Man, leaped +his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle _de Feldtbruck_, how +sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and +Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked +upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did +not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the +Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to +keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade +with him to the Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he +reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his +Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved. + +I stay'd a few Days at _Maestricht_, which City put me in Mind of my +Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector _Frederic_ of +_Brandenbourg_. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new +Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion +wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for +him. + +The City of LIEGE is about five Leagues from _Maestricht_. A Vessel goes +thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so +rapid as the _Maese_, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is +what I shall never advise any Friend of mine. + +The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that _Liege_ was built by +that _Ambiorix_ King of the _Eburons_, a great Enemy of the _Romans_ who +cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of _Caesar's_ +Lieutenants; for which Affront, _Caesar_ afterwards took a sweet Revenge. +But be this as it will, 'tis certain that _Liege_ is a very ancient City. +'Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley, +encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro' +which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the _Maese_, which passes +thro' the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral, +dedicated to St. _Lambert_, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of +Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are +included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or +_Tressonciers_, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the +Doctor's Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will, +comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of _Germany_. + +The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of _Liege_ is ancient. It has large +Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not +airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of +_Berg_. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector +of _Cologne_, and the Cardinal of _Saxe Zeits_; but he had the good Luck +to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased +with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs +with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of +very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his +Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always +distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a +_Capuchin_ to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father +was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to +their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This _Capuchin_ Minister died without +being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince's Domestics. He is +succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another _Capuchin_; but his +Authority is more limited. + +The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at +_Serai_, a Country House a small League from _Liege_, on the Banks of the +_Maese_, towards _Huy_, where he has seldom any body with him but his +Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber. +His Table is not so sumptuous as 'tis elegant; his Liveries are very +modest, his Guards but few, and cloath'd exactly alike. He has rais'd a +Regiment of Guards, of which the Count _de Beaufort_, Brother to the +Governor of _Charleroy_, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the +old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has +been intirely ruin'd and demolish'd, since it was besieg'd and taken by my +Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the +Citadel of _Liege_ shall not be rebuilt. + +You know, that the Episcopal See of _Liege_ was formerly at _Tongres_; of +which, they say, that _Maternus_, sent by St. _Peter_, was the first +Bishop. The See was transferr'd by his Successors, first to _Maestricht_, +and then to _Liege_. + +There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love +Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and +have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. _Paul's_ +Church here would be admir'd, even in _Rome_ itself. Divine Service is +perform'd in it with very great Regularity; and 'tis impossible not to be +edify'd by it, the _Roman_ Ritual being observed in every Particular. + +The Pleasures of _Liege_ consist very much in Drinking, for there's little +Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the +Tavern, where there are good _Bar_ and _Burgundy_ Wines, and a sort of +Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of _Liege_ +go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great +Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies +commonly end like the _Italian_ Comedies. The _Liegeois_ are accused of +being insincere, and are called, _the_ Italians _of the_ Netherlands. They +drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are +Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive, that they think any sort of +Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that +the Country of _Liege_ alone furnishes the Chamber of _Wetzlar_ with more +Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever +conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none, +whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho' I shall ever esteem the +honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter +not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the _Liegeois_, +who appeared to me such as I have describ'd them; and if I wrong them, I +ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases, +and for my own part, I shall be overjoy'd to hear of any Merit found among +them. + +The Country of _Liege_ is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except +Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron +and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth +proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable, +because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the _English_ +Coal, and renders _Liege_, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as +_London_. + +The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who +are not always of the Prince's Opinion. In this Country are reckon'd fifty +Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall'd Towns, and near +fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire. + +I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at _Spa_, where I +hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours, +_&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLVI. + + + _SIR_, _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._ + +The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place +itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are +not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil +myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which +they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are +several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all +Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of +_Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every +Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the +human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which +must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a +little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the +Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring +is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which +Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name. +The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own +Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely, +that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks +successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even +go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied +himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He +would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He +complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look'd very well, eat +heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I +thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner. +I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from +the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy'd to renew my Acquaintance there with +Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho' I am +extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I +cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and +more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home. + +In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the +Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital +in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one +of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it +was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred +Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has +a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants +are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal +of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great +Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many +Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of +_England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four +Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks +and Mountains. + +AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to +_Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say, +that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by +the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_ +caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_, +Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors +crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given +an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church +of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be +of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church. + +The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That +during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross +over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice +which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given +them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of +_Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_'s Confessor. When the Electors were going to +take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre +which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who +did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the +Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_'s +Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all +the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the +Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the +Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the +Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to +tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this +Transaction, tho' white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to +the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond +Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my +Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his +pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but +it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he +met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a +Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the +Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest +upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the +Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_, +Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal +of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be +chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest +Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed +_Rodolph_'s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_, +that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it; +_Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the +_Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_ +Line. + +The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_ +III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops +attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt, +a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a +Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give +as much, or as little Credit as you please. 'Tis, that God, in order fully +to answer _Charlemagne_'s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of +Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St. +_Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time, +and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear +visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope's +Blessing; after which they vanish'd. But I think, without pretending to +dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they +ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than +the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to +doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I +saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in +the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise, +and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb +there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to +the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_. + +_Excitus bac arca_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se +reddit uterque Hierarcha._ + +After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must +be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to +give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady's +Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great +Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from +all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only +exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the +Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having +been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of 'em return Home, without being +able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is +the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord. +Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the +People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form +of one of those Proclamations. + + At the first RELIQUE. + + We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the + Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the + Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus + Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God, + that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that + the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we + may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction. + +The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques. + +In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of +Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider'd with Pearls, and other +sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which +_Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. 'Tis +of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold; +but what's become of 'em, I know not. 'Tis in this Chair that the King of +the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here +the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first +Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and +the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a +great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given +by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that +Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church's +Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume. + +The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which +was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired; +so that 'tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new +Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome +Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and +there's very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season; +but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess +_de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The +last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been +a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of +_Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation. +He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory. + +Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there's none of more +agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being +perfectly good. There's the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where +the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their +Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well +furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season, +hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine. + +From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro' a +very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one +ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro' JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy +of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to +overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius Caesar_ +caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to +_Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either. +There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I +thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or +Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, 'tis to be hoped, is in a better +State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the +General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_. +The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the +_Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place; +and 'tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches +in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the +Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, 'tis hardly supposed that the King +of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just +Pretensions. + +COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_. +There's nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be +seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song. +The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was +born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal +Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its +Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. 'Twere to +be wish'd, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it +into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more +Houses than Families. For 'tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a +whole House to himself. + +If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number +of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth; +for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year. +The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle +St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most +magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does +no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in +_Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who +must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some +Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than +the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were +brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the +City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as +the sacred Reliques had pass'd, that nothing might profane it. The +Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of +_Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it +would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a +Company of the Burghers. + +The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere; +but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_ +Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the +old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a +Kin to the Holy Virgin. + +The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City; +nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice +here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no +manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared +among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses, +and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are +very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The +Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in +_Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of +'em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired, +they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are +Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and +drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have +not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_ +Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them. + +There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City, +particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into +the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day +before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson's_[91] +Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de +Medicis_ lodg'd, while she liv'd here, and where she died in a Condition +so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human +Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap'd +Riches and Honour, not content with having banish'd her out of the +Kingdom, abandon'd her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv'd +in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the +Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the +Ministry, retir'd likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of +_France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat +it. + +I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have +seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It +maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the +Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all +Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because +when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged +to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search'd, and every thing +turn'd topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of +putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put +all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to +drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you +shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ +from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct +Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of +the Public. + +There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the +City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_, +about half a League off. + +I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour. +He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the +_Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough +before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time, +and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him +in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the +Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that +cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my +next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I +am with the most perfect Esteem, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLVII. + + + _SIR_, _Bonn, July 30, 1732._ + +As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that +time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from +_Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro' one of the finest Roads in +the World, well-pav'd and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain, +encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very +ancient, that _Florus_ tells us 'twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned +say, 'tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention'd by _Tacitus_. Be +this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the +_Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at +all, when the Court is not there. 'Twas heretofore very well fortify'd, +and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_ +Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it +at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and +lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_ +Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary +manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and +Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had +forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as +were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that +was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding +Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the +Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice +to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of +it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well 'twas his Due, but +that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great +Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation +to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all +Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure +him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of +Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to +continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and, +perhaps, hurry'd by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector's +Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days +after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army. + +During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce +a House was left standing; for the Baron _d'Asfeldt_, who commanded in the +Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a +Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches. + +This City was again besieg'd in 1703, by my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, +who obliged the Marquis[93] _d'Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to +capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of +_Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector +_Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn +them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own +Territories. + +This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a +sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy'd in the last Siege, were not +yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair +of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old +Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and +built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of +the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to +Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish'd, has spacious +Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn'd, and nobly furnish'd. The +Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth +seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord's +Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon'd +the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_, +caused them to be made. + +The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded +by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of +the Holy Martyrs _Cassius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_ +Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the +Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the +Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so +very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church +of _Rome_. + +Tho' the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet +he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three +Leagues out of Town; which, tho' not very large, has very fine Apartments, +adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The +Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine +when finish'd. + +The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a +League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built +in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the +present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ +the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there's a +Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order. + +All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are +moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here, +than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is +decaying. + +After having walk'd about here a great deal, expecting the Elector's +Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_ +his Brother. He was welcom'd with the Discharge of the Cannon, and +complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return, +and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the _Teutonic_ Order. +Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress'd in a Lay +Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the +Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of +the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as +Grand Master of a Military Order. + +His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called _Clement Augustus_; +for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves +Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit +of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an +Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly +descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes +his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards, +with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native +of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General +in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke +_Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who +was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now +the Elector's Prime Minister, who was then purely attach'd to that Prince, +from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke +_Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those +two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop. +This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope's own Hand, at _Rome_; and +afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after +this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be +appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement +Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of _Hildesheim_. +After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of +_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for +Successor to that Prince's Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand +Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights, +who have Commanderies in that Order. + +The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of +such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they, +_one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the +like in all our Annals; 'tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I +am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so +or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and +even more Benefices; and that 'tis for the Welfare and Interest of the +Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal +of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and +_Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it +was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the +Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho' not a +Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry +against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector +should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to +the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_. + +Tho' I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the +Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the +contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several +Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by +the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them, +separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the +Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being +united under one Head, they are a formidable State. + +_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_ +Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they +don't consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of +_Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would +never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But +admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic, +what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and +particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang'd since his Death. The +Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters +of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the +best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics, +on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions +impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade. +Therefore, I say it again, 'tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the +Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute +their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church +with an able Protector. + +Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious +Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both +Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de +Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish'd Rank for +a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of +_Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and +M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been +promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy +Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the +Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the +Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_ +is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be +ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor's +Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the +Elector of _Cologne_'s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime +Minister. + +Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the +Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. 'Twas this +Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose, +first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of +_Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being +elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his +Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps, +have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he +apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step: +But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and +by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the +Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services, +performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject, +could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the +Elector's intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The +Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His +Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He +has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in +their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the +First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce +presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour +itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which +only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears +attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without +affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent, +vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o'Clock +every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a +magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there +is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have +Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to +the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the +Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and +Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he +is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His +Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of +excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of +his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_, +where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the +Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens +to it, which will not easily be match'd in _Germany_. This Minister has an +only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is +already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and +Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count +_de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to +follow, and his Example to imitate. + +There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The +Baron _de Nothasst_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the +Elector's Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The +Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the +Elector's Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to +Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in +the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_. +His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy +Father's Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ +Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which +Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of +several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his +Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography, +and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the +State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the +Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to +the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God, +whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into +Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a +Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest's Orders. He said his first +Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of +_Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year +ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the +Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every +body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that 'twere to be wished +all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to +God, and the World. + +The Elector's Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two +Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Nothasst_ is Commander +in chief of those Troops, which, tho' but a Handful, are sufficient for +the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified +heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished. + +In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_ +governs with the Title of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral +Palace, and is served by the Elector's Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_ +is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies +at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the +Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure. +In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLVIII. + + + _SIR_, _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._ + +I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the +disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not +fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a +little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the +_Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is +made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The +_Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great +Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for +_Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and +arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the +Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for +_Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of +the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank +with Wine. + +A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an +abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his +Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is +haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met +with, more or less, in all Countries. + +The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where +the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too, +are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de +Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to +be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour. + +The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to +_Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give +me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are +cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly +take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of +Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages. + +The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_, +at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley +surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and +Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to +them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several +Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_, +the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very +rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look +upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a +Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is +to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de +Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a +lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years. + +The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of +_Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it +impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is +situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by +itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of +Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which, +they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to +be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of +_Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much +pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes +but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very +much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_, +where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a +Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge. + +The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_, +who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the +Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and +Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of +_Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of +_Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect: +He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a +very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his +Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his +Houshold not large. + +From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle +of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_. +The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and +claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family +of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the +Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and +the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A +Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the +_Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the +_Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge. + +As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is +given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is +reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there's +no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine; +which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the +Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the +midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to +Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him +from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a +considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth +of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous +Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames, +ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable +soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it +were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I +questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of +it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that +this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a +Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in +which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire +to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats. + +The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the +_Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought +to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion +of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of +_Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to +celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in +request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but +wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine +that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth +nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of +_Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the +Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good, +and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other. + +From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of +the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the +_Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in +the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five +hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City, +in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of +_Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as +it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in +the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a +Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a +greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and +Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that +eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose +unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the +Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in +the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the +Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the +late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic +Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the +whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour, +and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, +whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was +also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long +time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd +it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it +may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had +begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then +commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to +sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of +_Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works, +cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others +of Stone erected in their stead. + +The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some +fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_, +_Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better +Situation. + +The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing +remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember +to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time +there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned +with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were +engraved; + + _Auri sexcentas habet haec crux aurea libras._ + +Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure +you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely +of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it. + +The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was +answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are +commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World. + +That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the +_Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its +Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very +neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The +Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which +represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric +fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a +Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a +perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of +which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but +neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they +devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or +employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and +industrious Occupations. + +It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they +always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women, +and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as +that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it +any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders. + +At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill, +is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector. +_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the +Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a +Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole +are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little +Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it, +disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of +the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the +other Side of those Rivers. + +For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject +to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of +Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony. +The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of +the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is +to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the +Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while +these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the +neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken. + +I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a +little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to +the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very +much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I +am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the +sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it +would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the +Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same +as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater +Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without +Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and +it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of +fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which +really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at +which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes +here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry. + +SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that +consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of +_Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they +use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves, +and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they +don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant. + +This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its +Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be +gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as +I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from +whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope +to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am, +_&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER XLIX. + + + _SIR_, _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._ + +At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG, +belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three +Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I passed over a flying Bridge, +between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. 'Twas founded +by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing +magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it. +All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such +as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they +dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well +decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect +of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble +Scenes to View. + +From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_, +belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a +fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its +Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been +obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a +small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had +undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call +the _New-Town_; but that Prince's Death, and the Absence of the Court, put +a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but +'tis carried on so slowly, that 'twill take up a great deal of Time to +finish it. + +The Elector's Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but +a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or +Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in +the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of +Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by +that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de +Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince's having taken him out of +_Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The +Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but +most of 'em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains +Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with +the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died +lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures +sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave +him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand +Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing, +or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and +the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more +beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Passion +of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector +_John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of +_Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector's Wife, which Princess is +represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The +fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces +by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di +Cortona_, _Guido_, _Titian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_, +_Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_, +_Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious +in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are +distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the +utmost Perfection, copy'd, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed +upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with +excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of +other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery +truly magnificent. + +Under these Rooms there's another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and +Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_ +and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector +_John-William_, with very great Care and Expence. + +In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector's Equestrian +Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral +Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not +answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking +Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very +wretched Figure; tho' 'tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a +Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine +Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole +Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even +without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of +_Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the +World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription. +He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and +Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his +Good-nature render'd him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and +the Darling of his Subjects. + +This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes, +who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._ +_Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_, +_Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of +_Hesse Cassel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the +King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they +are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of +their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to +the latest Posterity. + +The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_, +there's a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is +the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on +it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay +any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector. +All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular +Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments. +The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful +Convent here. There's a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth +seeing. 'Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and +adorned with very fine Paintings. 'Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of +_John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin. + +Tho' the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good +Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners. +There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de +Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a +Court. + +I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance, +which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From +thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the +Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but +indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only +remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_, +is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that's +good. + +After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats, +I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the +King of _Prussia_: 'Tis regularly fortify'd, and has a very good Citadel +towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the +first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King +_Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished. +M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those +Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to +M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render +_Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town +more particularly deserves a Traveller's Attention, than the _Berlin_ +Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or +more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is +extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or +Ammunition. + +In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous +City, but now very much decay'd. The Catholic Church is a beautiful +Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which +the Natives pay great Devotion. + +'Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro' one continued Range +of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town +is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King's Palace is ancient, +yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall. +There's nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these +Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_, +coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the +Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he +wish'd _Versailles_ was as well situate. + +_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which +is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of +his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil, +and a Gentleman of a fine Presence. + +There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the +Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very +handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the +Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour +to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never +was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same +Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole +Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to +remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his +Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no +Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don't +know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was +at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came +hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to +come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was +formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had +Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what +has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other +Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well +acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again +so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great +many Facts to tell you, which 'tis not always safe to commit to a Letter. +I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER L. + + + _SIR_, _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._ + +Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had +it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I +should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I +thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other +Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send +you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what +others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these +Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best +manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more. + +From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_, +and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of +_Prussia_; from which 'tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on +the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of +the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or +_Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the +Time when the Republic seem'd ready to sink under the Weight of their +Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify'd; so that 'tis now a +Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign'd +here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next +Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and +_France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is +much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there's a Prospect of a +great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest +Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords. + +After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or +five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is +very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of +Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or +the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather, +because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made, +that a little Matter turns 'em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the +Inventor of 'em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the +most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to +yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step, +placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The +Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread +over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one's Head +against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the +Entrance of _Proserpine_ into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by +which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing +one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his +Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are +stow'd in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination, +makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers. + +'Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to +RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time +been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector +_Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to +be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir +to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said +_Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which +the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in +his Journies to and from _Hanover_. + +The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean +that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather +they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by +consequence, not passable when it has rain'd. + +As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are +several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of +_Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a +Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most +considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count +of _Nassau_, Son of the late Mons. _d'Odyck_, distinguished in the +Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his +Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven +Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman's Palace. It has fine +Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when +that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The +Count _de Nassau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place +_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more +agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because +that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its +Allies. + +The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of +_Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance +of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can +only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed, +would not want for Magnificence. + +The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to +the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which +_Lewis_ XIV. so admir'd upon Account of its Walks, that he wish'd he +could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut +down the Trees. + +UTRECHT, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of +_Jericho_, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of _Israel_, +were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did +not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to +carry their Keys to the King of _France_, notwithstanding the Offers made +to them by the Prince of _Orange_, to defend the Place. _Lewis_ XIV. +entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very +short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That +in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground; +and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to +place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his +Majesty came by. If this Circumstance is true, they who possessed the King +with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the _Dutch_, who, 'tis possible, +might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a +Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to +fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character. + +The Streets of _Utrecht_ are spacious and very airy, its Houses pleasant +and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the +Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to +_Charles_ II. King of _Spain_. This City, next to the _Hague_, is the most +agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here's a great Number, as well +as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for +the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir'd. + +The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its +Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for +Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies +of Dragoons. The Court of _Rome_ always nominates the Archbishop, who +commonly resides at _Amsterdam_. I think the Person who enjoys +this[101]Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but 'tis probable he has +no View to a Cardinal's Cap, he being a declared _Jansenist_. The +_Carthusians_ who retired from _France_ under the specious Pretext of +securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese, +where they live in two separate Convents not very far from _Utrecht_, and +are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in _France_, about +the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the +Protestants, who did not think they differ'd very widely from their +Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur _Paris_ pass for a +Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has +been conceiv'd of 'em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for +these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who +increase the Number of 'em. Be this as it will, 'tis allow'd by every +body, even by the most zealous _Roman_ Catholics, that setting aside their +Religious Sentiments, there's no Fault to be found with their Morals and +Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the +Convent which they have abandoned. + +The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may +believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it: +Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are +neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the +Ambassadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho' it was not for want of Money, +insomuch that several of 'em might have purchased the Houses they lived +in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the +Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me +in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three +Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of +the Republic. _Nimeguen_, said they, signified NEIM-WEG (_Take all_), +_Reiswick_, REIS-WEG (_Pluck up all_), and _Utrecht_, AUSSER RECHT +(_Witbout Right_). If every Thing be fairly examin'd, all this perhaps may +be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies. + +I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from +_Utrecht_ to _Amsterdam_, which is not only the most commodious, but the +best regulated, and the cheapest Passage in _Europe_. One knows to a +Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets +into Port. If you agree for the _Rous_ or Cabin, one is alone, or with +what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to +_Utrecht_, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came +out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Canal which +carried me to _Amsterdam_ presents a thousand agreeable Objects to View, +being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent +Gardens, Meadows and Villages. + +After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the +Inhabitants, I am arrived at AMSTERDAM, that modern _Tyre_, the Mistress +of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest, +and most wealthy Cities in _Europe_. It contains both sacred and profane +Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely) +retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in +the Buildings of _Venice_ and _Genoa_, which are of a sublimer Taste, +because the Nobility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be +truly great and noble at _Amsterdam_, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks, +and the broad and deep Ditches with which 'tis encompassed. + +_Amsterdam_ is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any +measure to _Venice_. For tho' 'tis not built as _Venice_ is, in the midst +of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like _Venice_ it consists +of a vast Number of Islands, and its principal Streets have Canals, with +the Adventage of spacious Kays at their Doors, fenc'd with Trees; whereas +at _Venice_, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be +all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as +to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one _Canal +Grande_, and one _Canal Reggio_, being worth more in this respect than all +_Amsterdam_. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat, +genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of +Brick. Heretofore the _Amsterdammers_ Manner of Building was very +extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon +Stilts, which I explain thus: The Front of the first Floor, upon the +Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars +that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for +them, is very slight; for there's seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in +Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in +the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is +overheard in the second. I don't criticize the Manner of the Distribution +of their Rooms; tho', to be plain, their Architects know no more of this +Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of +them smoaky. 'Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded +by it, and that they might even do without them[102]. For the Women warm +themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen +Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor'd in it, which they keep +under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her +Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined +with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick +Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove +as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is +seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and +I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who +don't boil the Pot above once a Week: For there's no Nation in the World +that feeds worse than the _Dutch_, and particularly the _Amsterdammers_, +Butter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet. + +But I have deviated from the Article I was upon, touching their Manner of +Building. I cannot conceive how 'tis possible for Houses that are so +slight to stand: And there are some that perfectly totter from Side to +Side; but I had rather see a Woman dance, than a House. A great Number of +those Houses have lately been set upright. One of those Pinacles, in Form +of a Sugar-loaf, which is at the Top of most of the old Houses, unhappily +fell down and kill'd three Persons that were passing along the Street: +Whereupon the Government, out of their great Care to prevent all such +Accidents for the future, ordered the Landlords of every House to cause +those staggering Pyramids to be pulled down: This has had two good +Effects; for People are not so liable to be knock'd o'the Head, and the +Town looks handsomer. The principal Ornament of the Houses is their +Windows, there being scarce a Country that has finer Glazing, and many of +the Houses have Windows of polish'd Plate-glass. But in some Palaces of +_Venice_ or _Genoa_, the Paintings and Gildings only of the Ceilings are +worth more than the finest House in _Amsterdam_. Yet I don't deny but +there are Houses here, in the Rearing of which no Cost has been spar'd, +but in general they are small. There are scarce any that have above five +Windows in Front, others have four, and the greatest Part three. The Entry +is by Steps of black Marble or Stone. To the Houses of the common Size, +there's a very narrow Entry pav'd with white Marble, with which the Walls +are often fac'd, at least to a certain Height. The Apartment consists +generally of two Rooms on a Floor, a little Court behind it, and a second +Pile of Building, which is but one Room in Depth, and has Lights towards +the Garden. At _Venice_ and _Genoa_, a Merchant (for I set the Nobles +aside) will have at least an Apartment of three or four Rooms. At +_Amsterdam_ the Furniture is neatest, and in _Italy_ the richest. Here one +shall find a curious Piece of _Flemish_ Tapestry, a Closet of Pictures, +fine Glass, a great deal of _China_ Ware, and curious Toys from the +_Indies_; the Floor shall be covered with fine _Persian_ Carpets; but you +shan't see any Furniture of Velvet embroidered with Gold, no Lustres of +Rock-Crystal, no great Collection of Paintings, nor that Abundance of +antique Busts, Vases and Statues of Marble and Brass. In fine, to conclude +this long Parallel, I must tell you, that if the Palaces of _Italy_ were +as neat as the Houses of _Amsterdam_, there would be nothing to compare to +them; and if the Houses of _Amsterdam_ were as much neglected as those of +_Italy_, they would be of no Manner of Account. + +Be a House here ever so small, there's always some Apartment in it +uninhabited, which is the finest Part of the Building. 'Tis a Sanctuary +whereof the upper Servant Maid of the House is the grand Priestess. She +has so profound a Respect for this unfrequented Place that she never +enters it without putting off her Shoes, for fear of soiling the Floor, +which is held in so great Veneration that they pay it a Sort of Worship: +'Tis the Residence of the Houshold Gods, and one is sure of incurring the +Indignation both of the Mistress and the Maids, if one does not shew the +same Veneration to their Floor as they do. Whoever enters the House, must +first rub their Feet upon a Mat at the Door, and be sure not to spit, were +they in Danger of being choak'd, unless they find a little Basket of Sand +laid there for the Purpose; and if a Person should but happen to drop the +least Thing capable of spotting the Floor, I am not sure that the +Priestesses would not sacrifice the Delinquent to their Idol, and that we +should not see the Revival of the Story of _Orpheus_ and the _Bacchantes_. +There are however some particular Days in the Year when the Priestesses +give their Masters Leave to enter these Sanctuaries, and therein to +receive Company; but the very next Day, this Place, which in the Language +of the Country is called _Besse-Kamer_ (i. e. _the best Room_) is wash'd +and purify'd, as our Churches are after they have been profaned. I don't +make Things a jot worse than they are in reality, and I am sure there are +some Rooms that are not opened four times in a Year, unless it be to air +the Goods. 'Tis the same with a thousand fine Things in the +_Amsterdammers_ Possession, which they don't make use of for fear of +spoiling them: Thus they live in the midst of Abundance, and of Wealth, +without the Hearts to enjoy what they have. Nevertheless, within these few +Years past, they begin to have some Taste of Life: They give into +Equipage, Furniture, and Rural Entertainments, and their Women into Dress +and Splendor. The old Men exclaim against new Fashions, and say the +Republic is in a declining State, in which they resemble one of our +Emperors, who observing that his Master of the Horse had changed the +Cord-Traces, which had been the Fashion of his Court, into Leather Traces, +cry'd out, That _Luxury would be the Ruin of his Family, and his +Government_. + +The Government of _Amsterdam_ is in a Senate, consisting of sixty-three +Persons, who hold their Places for Life; and when any one dies, 'tis the +Senate that appoints his Successor: In this Body there are twelve +Burgomasters, of whom four preside annually. They chuse three out of the +twelve every Year, who with one of the four of the last Year, that +continues in Office, have the Direction of Affairs. These latter, before +they enter into their Office, are obliged to take an Oath to the senior +Burgomasters. He who is continued from one Year to the other, has the +Presidency for three Months, after which the others take it in their +Turns; and they who go out of their[103]Office, are commonly employed as +Treasurers of the City, or as Counselor-Deputies to the States of +_Holland_, residing at the _Hague_. + +The Office of Burgomaster is more honourable than profitable; for 'tis +said, their Salary is only five hundred Florins _per Annum_: But their +Authority is considerable; for they are the chief Magistrates, and in some +Sort the Masters of the City. They dispose of all the public Money, and +they alone judge of what is necessary for the Safety of the Town. They are +the Guardians of the Bank, which can only be opened in the Presence of one +of 'em. They confer all Offices, and may therewith gratify whom they will, +and if they please, their own Children; so that, as in _Germany_, there +needs but a Bishop in a decay'd Family to repair its Misfortunes, so here, +if there be but a Burgomaster in a Family, 'tis enough to make 'em all +easy. + +There is also in this City a Bailiff, who is called _Hoofd-Schout_, or +_Hoofd-Officier_, who is the same that is elsewhere called the Lieutenant +of the Police. He has under him three Substitutes, who are called the +_Under-Schouts_. These are they who apprehend Malefactors, which they +often do in the midst of a Mob, only accompanied with a Couple of Archers +who have no other Arms but Swords. Yet every one trembles at the Sight of +'em, and two Men carry another to Prison, with more Ease than forty +Archers can do the like at _Paris_. + +The Senate meets in the Stadthouse. This Fabric, so much celebrated for +its Magnificence, and because it contains the richest Bank in the +Universe, is really a stately Edifice; and tho' it has Defects, it may be +ranked in the Number of the finest Buildings in _Europe_. It fronts a +Square called the _Dam_, in the Centre of the City. The Building is almost +a complete Quadrangle, with Pavilions at each Angle. In the middle of the +principal Front there's an advanced Building which takes up one third of +the whole Front. 'Tis decorated by seven Porticos, so small that they +disfigure all this great Pile of Building; which they pretend was not +owing to the Ignorance of the Architect, but to a political Cause: For at +the Time that this Stadthouse was built, the Republic was but in its +Infancy. The Populace of _Amsterdam_, a turbulent Mob, ready for any +Mischief, were then far less submissive to their Magistrates than now; and +they so often disturbed those Magistrates in their Deliberations, that the +Architect chose to make the Avenues so narrow, on purpose to prevent the +Inconveniencies of too easy an Entrance by a Crowd of People. But if this +was his true Reason for not keeping to the Rules of Architecture, three +great Porticos would have done as well as seven small ones: He might have +given them due Proportion, and the Front would have been more majestic. +But the Number Seven was the chosen Number, and it was to represent the +Seven United Provinces, to whose Union the City of _Amsterdam_ owes its +Enjoyment of Liberty and Commerce. Notwithstanding this Defect, 'tis +certain that a Foreigner, tho' he will not offer to compare this +Stadthouse to the Palace of _Versailles_, to the Escurial, or to the +_Procuraties_ at _Venice_; and tho' when he looks on it, he may only think +he sees a Town-house, and not the Palace of a King, or of a powerful +State, yet he cannot behold it without Admiration, especially if he does +but consider that every Material in this Building was brought from foreign +Countries. + +The Outside of this great Fabric is all of Free-stone, extremely well put +together; and an Order of very substantial Pilasters ranges quite round +the whole. The Part which projects from the principal Front, is terminated +by a Pediment, which is a grand Piece of Sculpture. It represents the City +of _Amsterdam_, under the Figure of _Cybele_, seated in a Chair. Four +_Naiads_, and two Sea Nymphs, present her with Crowns of Palms, and +Laurels, and Fruit, in token of the Power and Abundance which this City +receives by Commerce. On the other Side, _Neptune_, accompanied by the +_Tritons_, seems approaching to pay his Homage to the Goddess, undoubtedly +to denote the Power of this City at Sea. All this magnificent Groupe is +extremely well executed, and very much esteemed by the Connoisseurs. A +Dome at the Top of this Edifice has eight great open Arches all round, +which support the Cupola; and in this Dome there's a Chime of Bells which +the Lovers of such noisy Music say is very good Harmony. + +The first Room within is the Chamber of Justice, wherein the Criminals +receive their Sentence. It has three Porticos which open into the great +Square, from whence may be seen what passes in that Chamber. This Room is +adorned with Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, done by excellent Hands. +_Solomon_'s Judgment is there represented in such a grand Manner as is +wonderful. Beyond this Chamber is the great Stair-case, which has no +manner of Ornament, and little or no Light. It leads to the great Hall, +which is really magnificent, but not very lightsome. It is adorned with +Pilasters and Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, executed with infinite Art. The +arch'd Roof, which is of Wood, and painted with Oil, is not answerable to +the Richness of this Hall. Four great Coridors or Galleries, laid open by +great Arches on both Sides, at the two Ends of the Hall, lead to the +Apartments, and are adorned with white marble Pilasters two and two, +Flowers in Bas-Relief, and Statues of a grand Disposition; and the Emblems +with which the Gates are adorned, are all very suitable to the Business +that is transacted in the Chamber to which they open. + +I shall not undertake to give you the Particulars of all these Rooms, not +only because it would carry me too far, but because I observed nothing in +them, except some Paintings, that is worth your Notice. The Arsenal takes +up one intire Floor over these Chambers, but is only considerable for the +prodigious Quantity of Arms of the modern Fashion, especially Muskets, +which are the Manufacture of this City, and a Part of its Commerce. + +The ground Floor is very low, but consists of fine great Arches. Here are +contained the Offices of the Bank, and the Prisons, from which no body +ever yet escaped, and it is humanly impossible they should; for besides +that the Walls are very thick, the whole is strongly barricaded both +within and without, by iron Bars, the very Appearance of which is +frightful. But if 'tis possible for Prisons to be agreeable, these would +certainly be such, for they are all lightsome; the Prisoners are not so +ill used as they are elsewhere, but are allowed proper Nourishment, and +not suffered to Wallow in their Nastiness. + +The Stadthouse is the Place where all Persons are married, who are not of +the Religion that prevails in the Country. This is a Ceremony that may be +seen every _Sunday_, and is performed in the Presence of two Echevins, and +a Secretary. The People that are to be married, go into a Room where the +Magistrates are seated at a Table, and there they are entered one after +the other without Distinction of Rank, into the Register of Marriages; +after which they go Home with the Satisfaction of having been as well +married as if the Ceremony had been performed by the Pope himself; nor are +they under the least Necessity of having recourse to the Church. +Nevertheless, all the regular People go to some Priest or Minister to +receive the nuptial Benediction. + +The Treasure of the Bank is kept in a Place under Ground, which extends, +as I am assured, a great Way under the Square of the _Dam_. + +Every body agrees that it is immense, but nobody knows exactly of how many +thousand Millions it consists; and it is a Question, whether its Credit be +not infinitely greater than its Cash; it being certain that the Public has +such a Confidence in it that every body puts their Money into it, though +without any Interest for it: On the contrary, it costs One hundred and +five Florins ready Cash, to have One hundred Florins Bank. The largest +Payments are commonly made in Bank Notes: A certain Sum is registered in +the Bank Books, which is transferred, either in whole, or in Part, to the +Person to whom the Payment is to be made, This is called _The Keeping an +Account at the Bank_. It was a Correspondence of this Nature which the +famous _John Law_ would fain have establish'd at _Paris_; and he would +certainly have succeeded, if he had had but the Fund of the Bank of +_Amsterdam_, and the public Confidence. + +They say that the Revenues of this City amount to fifty thousand Livres a +Day, which I am apt to believe is true; for really the Taxes here are very +considerable, the Subjects of this State paying more than those of any +Crown whatsoever: All the Difference consists in the Distribution of the +Taxes, and the Manner of raising them: Here they are laid equally upon the +Rich and upon the poor, upon Citizens and upon Foreigners. + +The Liberty so much boasted of in these Provinces, is no more than that +which the good People of other Countries enjoy; nevertheless, I must +except Religion, which every one here may adapt to his own Fancy. The +Liberty therefore consists only in the Equality of Conditions: But for a +Boor to presume to be saucy to a Burgher, to despise the Nobility, to +censure his Masters with Impunity, and to treat all Kings as Tyrants, +seems to me to be a Liberty which favours very much of Libertinism. The +_Germans_ and the _French_, who are not used to such Licentiousness in +their own Country, easily fall into it here; and 'tis really a Wonder to +hear them in a Coffee-house talking of Sovereigns, especially when, +inspir'd with a Holy Zeal, they plead for the Religion, which, say they, +is every-where oppressed, except in the Dominions of the Calvinists. They +think every Government tyrannical, which does not allow intire Liberty of +Conscience. 'Tis true that in this Country every one believes as he +pleases: And here are Religions of every Kind, which nevertheless tend to +one and the same Centre, _viz._ the acquiring of Riches, and the +tormenting both of Body and Soul, to get an Estate, not to enjoy it, but +to have the Pleasure of dying rich. Money, the Darling and the Idol of the +whole World, is so adored in this City, that it stands in the stead of +Birth, Wit, and Merit. A Man who has but a small Share of the Favours of +Fortune, is neglected almost every-where; but here he is despised. + +Next to those of the prevailing Religion, the Catholics, among whom I +include the Jansenists, are the most numerous: I have been told, they are +above twenty thousand. They have fourteen Churches, served by different +Orders of Friers, who as they die, the States have declared, shall be +succeeded hereafter by none but the secular Priests who are Natives of the +Country. They say, that this Resolution was taken, because the Monks sent +the Money which they received for the Poor, to their Convent. What Ground +there is for this Charge, I know not; but be it as it will, who can be +sure that the Priests will not employ the Poors Money to enrich their own +Families? The Catholics form a considerable Body in this State, both for +their Number and their Wealth. It may be said that they are with the +_Jews_ (forgive me the Parallel) one of the chief Supports of its +Commerce; for as they cannot hold Offices, they are Merchants from Father +to Son; tho' 'tis true, that among the Protestants who are in Offices, +there are some who trade. + +What I have now said to you of our Clergy, engages me to give you some +Account of two Calvinist Preachers here, who are very much esteemed, and +mightily followed by those of their Communion. The one is M. _Alstein_, a +_German_ Minister, who preaches in the Church called the _Chapel_, a Man +of exemplary Morals, who avoiding angry Disputes and bitter Invectives, +preaches truly Christian Morality, which reaches to the Heart. He was +Minister of the Garison of _Potsdam_, in the Dominions of _Prussia_, when +he was called hither by the _German_ Colony established in this City. He +is belov'd and esteemed for his Modesty, Good-nature and Candour. This +Testimony which I pay him of the Veneration and Esteem I have for him, is +perfectly agreeable with the Character given of him by the Voice of the +Public. + +The second Preacher is M. _Chatelain_ a _French_ Minister, with whom I +have no Acquaintance; but he has a very great Character, and I have heard +him preach. It were to be wish'd, that all the Clergy (our Priests will +suffer me not to forget them) had it as much at Heart as this Minister +has, to instruct their Audiences; and that they would preach Morality, +which is the Life of all Religions, because it is founded upon Piety and +Virtue. M. _Chatelain_ was Minister at the _Hague_, when he was called to +this City, where he has the Pleasure of being as much esteem'd and +follow'd by his Flock, as he was by that which he left. + +I have many other Things to acquaint you with, but upon my Word, I can +write no more at present, my Pen falling out of my Hand. I shall resume it +however against next Post, not so much to tell you of _Amsterdam_, as to +assure you that no body can be more intirely yours, than I am, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER LI. + + + _SIR_, _Amsterdam, Dec. 7, 1732._ + +Since the Weather is set in for Frost, I keep my Station upon the Ice, to +see the People slide upon Skates; a favourite Exercise of the _Dutch_, in +which they acquit themselves with marvellous Dexterity. These Skates are a +very little smooth Piece of Wood, like a Weaver's Shuttle, except that the +Part on which the Heel and the Sole of the Shoe rest most, is a little +broader. The Remainder of it is slender and crooked at the End, that the +Iron which is underneath may the better cleave the Snow, and that they may +with the more Ease surmount the Obstacles and little Hillocks in the Ice, +over which they pass with great Rapidity, but not without Danger of +breaking their Legs or Arms, and often of being drowned. The _Dutch_ are +less exposed to these Inconveniencies than others, because they are most +expert in the Art; for they learn to skate when they can scarce go alone. +This is rather the Diversion of the common People, and of the lusty young +Fellows, than of the Gentry, or of Men full-grown. These go in Sleds, +after the Manner of our Country, which is what they call here _Narren_; +_i. e._ to play the Fool: And indeed, to consider it duly, I think 'tis a +right Name for it. + +The Place where I take the Air, is upon the River of _Amstel_, without the +Gate of _Utrecht_, where I see several Thousands of People scudding along +upon Skates, so fast that they seem to fly. If one of these Skaters was to +be seen in _Swisserland_, I know not whether he would not suffer the Fate +of _Brioche_, the Puppet-Show Man, whom the People of those Cantons burned +for a Conjurer. + +These Skaters are a great Relief to me; for to tell you a Secret, I am +quite sick of this City, which really is not a Place for a Man to live in, +that is not concerned in Trade; and a Foreigner especially, knows not how +to bestow himself. He can find nowhere to go but to some sorry +Coffee-house, or melancholy Walk. In the one he is sure to be _incens'd_ +with Tobacco, and stunned with wretched Commentaries upon News-Papers or +the Price of Pepper and Ginger; in the other he is as solitary as a +Hermit. Their Comedies are but a poor Relief to such as don't understand +_Dutch_, which besides is a Language that I think is not very fit for the +Stage, any more than ours. I thought the Actors pitiful, and the Habits +trifling; but the Decorations are fine, and the Theatre spacious and +magnificent. I can't imagine why the Magistrates will not let _French_ +Comedies be acted in their City, where I think they would do more Good +than Harm; for they would help to polish the Youth, and would undoubtedly +keep them from that Temptation to Debauchery, to which Idleness, and the +Difficulty of knowing where to spend the Evenings, naturally incline them. +I heard _d'Argenson_, the late Keeper of the Seals say, he had observed, +while he was Lieutenant of the Police at _Paris_, that there were more +Disorders and Debaucheries committed in that City, during the Fortnight at +_Easter_, when the Theatres were shut up, than were committed in four +Months, while all Shows were kept open. I doubt not but it would be the +same at _Amsterdam_, where there is a numerous Youth, for whom the Parents +are blindly complaisant, and ready to kill the fatted Calf; so that being +left to their own Devices, and having in general but few Maxims of +Education, they run with the Stream of their Passions into all +Extravagancies. These young Fellows, who prefer the Exercise of driving a +Chaise before all others, set up in the mean Time for fine Gentlemen; but +how well they perform their Part, I leave you to think. + +The Assemblies, or Societies, as they are here called, have nothing that +is engaging. You see very fine Faces there, but not a Tongue moves, at +least to a Foreigner, the very Sight of whom seems to frighten them. Here +they drink Tea, or play a Game at Ombre, or Quadrille, and afterwards go +in quest of a Supper. + +Those Societies, or Clubs, where there are no Ladies, are still worse. In +these they smoke and drink in Abundance, talk of Trade or Politicks; and +at such Times, woe be to those Powers that have forbid the Importation of +_Dutch_ Toys into their Dominions. The only Remedy here against Chagrin, +is Reading, of which a Man may have his Heartful; for _Amsterdam_ is not +only the Centre of the Bookselling Trade, but here are Book-sellers, that +are very ready to lend Books to such, who, like myself, cannot be at the +Charge of a Library. I divide my Time between Reading, the Coffee-house, +and taking the Air, the latter of which I use very moderately, one being +obliged to go so far for it, that I think of it at least four times before +I set out. The Canals, such as the _Heers-Gracht_, and the +_Keizers-Gracht_, are pleasant Walks in the Town, because they are planted +with Trees; but they are indifferently paved. Upon these two Canals, live +Persons of the greatest Distinction, or rather those of the greatest +Wealth in the City. + +One of the finest Walks in it is the Bridge, which joins the Rampart from +one Side of the _Amstel_ to the other. 'Tis six hundred and fifty Feet in +Length, and seventy in Breadth; and here one enjoys an admirable Prospect, +which is the only one perhaps that can be compared with the View from +_Pont-Royal_ at _Paris_. + +The Admiralty, with its Precinct, forms a little Town. 'Tis one of the +Arsenals of the _Dutch_ Navy. Here one actually sees Seventy Men of War, +and Materials for building a much greater Number. With the Leave of the +_Venetians_, their Arsenal, so much boasted, is by no means comparable to +this, with regard to Naval Stores. + +The Admiralty Office is so near the _India_ Company's Warehouse, that I am +tempted to give you some Account of a House which contains such a +Treasure. 'Tis a very great Structure of several Stories, distributed into +divers Chambers, or Rooms, where there is a prodigious Quantity of all +manner of Spices, of which the most common Sorts lie in Heaps as Corn does +in our Granaries. There are also a great many other Things of Value; and +in a Word, every Thing, be it ever so precious, that comes from the +_Indies_. After I had walked about an Hour in this Warehouse, I was, as it +were, embalmed with the Odour of all the different Spices, which made my +Head ake exceedingly, or else I should have thought myself metamorphosed +into a Mummy; but jesting apart, I fancy that were a Carcase to be +deposited in this House, it would be free from Corruption. The _India_ +Company is properly a Republick, within the Republic itself. It arms, +disarms, raises and disbands Officers and Soldiers, without being +accomptable to the State. It maintains a Governor in the _Indies_, who +lives there with more Pomp and Grandeur than his Masters do here. As a +_Neapolitan_ Lady at _Madrid_ wish'd _Philip_ IV. _that he might one Day +be Viceroy of_ Naples, so it might be said to a Director of the +_East-India_ Company, _I wish you may be one Day Governor of_ Batavia. + +I don't give you an Account of the Houses of Correction, nor of the +Hospitals, of which here are a great Number well founded, and well +maintained, because I have an extraordinary Antipathy to Prisons, and +dread the very Name of an Hospital, to which however I perceive that I am +making great Strides; but it will be Time enough for me to give you an +Account of those Mansions, when I have fixed my Quarters there. A +Description of a Synagogue would not, I believe, be material to you; +therefore I shall only acquaint you, that here are two, one for the +_Portuguese_ Jews, which is very fine, the other for the _German_ Jews. +They are both Jews alike, but differ in their Taste and Sentiments. The +_Portuguese_ Jews are the handsomest of the two, for they shave their +Beards, and some of them are very genteel. I was shew'd one the other Day, +who was a smart young Fellow, and might, have cut a Figure among the +Petits-Maitres. I was told, that he had been educated in our Religion, and +that he seemed to be fond of it; but being at _Paris_, in the Retinue of +M. ***, Ambassador of ***, he ran away from that Minister's Service, and +came to _Amsterdam_, where he turned as staunch a Jew as if he had never +heard the Name of Jesus Christ. + +Near the Jews Quarter there is the Garden of Simples. I am not Botanist +enough to tell you what Plants it contains; but have been assured, that +'tis one of the finest in _Europe_ for foreign Plants, which, considering +the great Trade that is carried on by the _Dutch_, is not improbable. + +When I have told you, that the public Walk, which they call _The +Plantation_, is near this Garden, and that it consists of several fine +Rows of Trees, one of which is cut out in the Shape of a Fan, I shall +think that I have not omitted giving you the minutest of my Remarks on the +Inside of _Amsterdam_. + +The Suburbs of this great City, in which 'tis said there are about five +hundred thousand Souls (as many as are in _Naples_) are extremely +populous. There are above eight hundred Windmills continually at Work, in +grinding Corn, or sawing of Timber. On the other Side of the Harbour, +there are several Villages, of which _Sardam_ is the most considerable, +not only for its Size, in which it surpasses many Towns, but for the +Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are called Peasants, and pretend to be +nothing else, tho' I can't imagine why; for they trade and make a Figure +here upon the Exchange, like the most substantial Merchants, and don't +apply themselves to Agriculture. I have been told, that there are above a +thousand Windmills at _Sardam_, always employed in sawing of Timber; which +would have been a rare Field for _Don Quixot_ to have display'd his +Valour. That Neatness of which the _Dutch_ are so fond, is cultivated to +the greatest Nicety in this Village; and the _Amsterdammers_ themselves +cannot but own and admire it. + +The Peasants of _Sardam_ dress more like the Citizens of _Amsterdam_ than +those of the other Villages in these Parts do, whose Apparel is of a very +extraordinary Fashion. They wear monstrous large Trowsers, wide enough to +make some People a whole Suit. Under this Trowser there is another Pair of +Breeches, and perhaps a third, or else a Pair of Drawers; and to the two +Pair of Breeches which are in Sight, they have solid Plate Buttons bigger +than a Crown piece, They also wear four or five Waistcoats, one over the +other, which are set so thick with silver Buttons that they perfectly +touch one another. Over all this Cloathing they have a dark-colour'd +Surtout or Doublet, which keeps them extremely tight downward, and +therefore all their Waistcoats ride up, so that they seem to have Breasts +like Women. Their Shoes are Seamen-like, or, with Reverence be it spoken, +such as are now worn by the _French_ Petits Maitres. They have also silver +Buckles, but so large that they are fitter for the Harness of Horses than +for Shoes. I assure you, that if the _Romans_ had been dressed like these +Peasants, the _Carthaginians_ would have taken a richer Booty in silver +Buttons than they did at the Battle of _Cannae_, when they took that Heap +of _Roman_ Rings. The Women also wear a small Equipage of Gold and Silver. +They have gold Ear-pendants, a Bodkin of the same which fastens their +Caps, Chains about their Necks, in Form of Pearl Necklaces, great Rings, +and in all this there's no Expence grudged. + +The _Sardamers_ are so very much wedded to their ancient Habit, that a +Father once refused to own his Son, because having been for some Years in +_France_, he came to wait on him upon the Exchange of _Amsterdam_, in a +Suit of Cloaths bedawb'd with gold Lace. Young _Calf_, which was the +Peasant's Name, arriving at _Amsterdam_ about Change-Time, went thither, +supposing he should find his Father there, in which he was not mistaken, +and he ran to embrace him; but the Father pushing him away, ask'd him what +he wanted, and told him that he did not think he had the Honour to be +known to him, and that probably he was mistaken in his Man. The Son's +calling him Father, signify'd nothing. Old _Calf_ being inexorable, +interrupted him, saying, _I your Father! I have but one Son, who is such a +Peasant as I am, and not a Lord, as you seem to be_. The young Fellow +perceived that his Father took Umbrage as his Dress; therefore he went to +a public House, sent for Cloaths after the _Sardam_ Mode, and having thus +equipped himself, went upon the Exchange next Day, where his Father +received him with all the Tokens of the most endearing Tenderness. After +that Day, young _Calf_, who went in _France_ by the Name of _de Veau_ +(which is the Signification of his Name translated into _French_) always +continued to dress in this Manner. This gave Occasion some Years ago to a +very pleasant Adventure: A _Frenchman_ who had known M. _Calf_ at _Paris_ +by the Name of _de Veau_, coming to _Amsterdam_, inquired every-where for +M. _de Veau_, who he said was a very rich Nobleman, of high Rank, as he +guessed by his Train of Attendants. It was a long Time before he could +hear any Tidings of him, because few People knew that young _Calf_ had +frenchified his Name in foreign Countries. At length a _Frenchman_, who +was settled at _Amsterdam_, offered the _Parisian_ to find out his Friend +for him. For this Purpose he carried him to the Exchange; and pointing to +M. _Calf_, _Stop_, said he to him, _there's the Man you are looking for_. +The _Frenchman_, who did not know M. _de Veau_ in his Country Garb, +thought that his Guide bantered him. _Parbleu Mons._ said he, _I told you +plain enough, that the Person I want is a Nobleman, and not a Peasant_. M. +_Calf_ hearing the Foreigner speak, and knowing him at first Sight, went +up to him, and welcomed him upon his Arrival in _Holland_. The _Frenchman_ +knew him instantly by his Voice, but thought himself in a Trance, because +he could not imagine how 'twas possible for a Person whom he had known a +Nobleman in _France_, to be a Peasant in _Holland_. M. _Calf_ explained +the Mystery of it to him however, as far as was convenient, considering +the Place where they were, and desired his Company to _Sardam_. The +_Frenchman_ went accordingly, and when he came thither, 'twas a fresh +Matter of Surprise to him to see the Peasant had the House and Furniture +of a Nobleman. M. _Calf_ shew'd him, that tho' he had laid aside the Garb, +he had not renounced the Politeness of the _French_, entertained him with +good Chear for several Days, and then sent him back highly delighted to +_Amsterdam_. + +The Village of _Sardam_ being in North _Holland_, I cannot avoid giving +you some Account of this Nook of that Province. Here is a perfect +Miscellany of Meadows, Canals, Country Houses, Gardens, great Villages, +and good Towns, an Uniformity of Beauties, which is only disagreeable by +being continued. He that sees one Town or House, sees all, and so of the +rest. The principal Towns of this Canton are _Horne_, _Alcmaer_, and +_Enckbuysen_, which are all built with the same Neatness, but have nothing +of Magnificence belonging to them, except it be the Walks at their Gates. +All these Places are so deserted, that it would take up the _Emigrants_ of +three or four Bishopricks to people them. Their Trade decays, _Amsterdam_ +being the Loadstone that draws all to it. This Part of the Province of +_Holland_ is very much infested with Worms which eat into the very Stakes +pf the Dykes. The People are in Hopes that the Frost will kill them, and +put an End to a Calamity which is one of the worst that can befal this +Country. It is not certain how these Insects breed, nor whether it be in +the Sea, or in the Timber itself: One would imagine from some little +external Specks of the infested Stakes, these Worms must breed in the Sea, +and from thence make their Way into the Wood, no bigger than Needles, +after which they grow as big as the Silkworm, and gnaw the Inside of the +Timber, in such a Manner that it looks like a Honeycomb. The Spoil they +make is said to be in those Parts only of the Stake which are under Water. +The Damage they have done to the Dykes is very considerable, and has so +very much alarmed the States, that they have prohibited Plays, &c. at the +_Hague_, and ordered public Prayers. A great many People pretend that this +Province was visited by such a Scourge fifty or sixty Years ago, and that +it was delivered from it by a Sort of Fish, that have never been seen +since, which devoured all those Worms. Others treat this as a Fable, and +say, that such Insects were never known, much less the Fish by which they +were devoured. Be this as it will, several Treatises will shortly be +published, to shew the Origin, Nature and Progress of the present Species +of Worms. If I am not mistaken, these Books will point out the Method, and +the Remedies proper for destroying them; and if any of 'em are printed +before I depart this Country, I will not fail to send them to you. + +For the rest, I cannot say that I have had any other Satisfaction in my +Tour to North _Holland_ than the Gratification of Sight; for Company does +not seem to be the Taste of the Country. I never stirred out but every +body took me for a very odd kind of a Man: Yet I am no Petit-Maitre; nor +is there any Thing uncommon in my Make. The Sex in this out-of-the-way +Country is very handsome, and here are Country Lasses who have a delicate +Complexion, not inferior to the finest Ladies. These Sylvan Beauties are +generally fair, and have such a languishing Look, that I guess they would +not prove unkind to any young Faun that courted them. For my own Part, who +am too far advanced in Years to attempt an Intrigue with 'em, I content +myself with admiring these beautiful Nymphs, whose Favours would perhaps +rather mortify than gratify me, and which in either Case, I should not +prefer to the Honour of your Friendship; a Thing to me of Price +inestimable. Of this I beg the Continuance, and flatter myself, that I +deserve it by the Attachment with which I am, _&c._ + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER LII. + + + _SIR_, _Helvoetsluys, Feb. 2, 1733._ + +Being detained in this Port by Winds that have for these six Days +obstinately opposed my Passage to _England_, without any Prospect of their +changing, I am at full Leisure to inform you of such Things as I have seen +since the last Letter that I had the Honour to write to you from +_Amsterdam_. + +I was carried from that City in the Boat in less than three Hours to +HARLEM, the second of those Towns that have a Right to send Deputies to +the Assembly of the States of the Province. It was for a long Time the +Rival of _Amsterdam_, and actually at War with it, but could not hinder +its Aggrandisement. While those Provinces fought for their Liberty, +_Harlem_ was besieged, taken and plunder'd by the _Spaniards_, against +whom the very Women bore Arms. In 1559, Pope _Paul_ IV. erected this Town +into a Bishoprick, but it never had more than two Bishops. The Splendor of +it is owing to its Manufactures, which consist of Silk-Stuffs, Cambrics, +strip'd Dimities, and Thread Stockings. Its Whitsters also bring a great +Revenue to this Town. The Florists cannot fail of being agreeably amused +here, by reason of Flowers of such Beauty, that I have been assured a +Tulip-Root has been sold there for fourteen hundred Florins. But the +greatest Honour of _Harlem_ is to have given Birth to _Laurence Coster_, +the Inventor of Printing. I am not ignorant that _Mentz_ disputes with +_Harlem_ for the Honour of that Invention, but this being a Controversy +which 'tis none of my Province to determine, I sincerely believe, when I +am at _Harlem_, that _Coster_ is the Inventor of this wonderful Art, +provided I may be at Liberty to believe the contrary when I am at _Mentz_, +and to be uncertain of the Matter everywhere else. _Coster_'s House is to +be seen here with the following Inscription placed Over the Gate, which +denotes, that _Printing_, the BEST ART for perpetuating the other Arts, +was first invented here about _Anno_ 1440. + + MEMORIAE SACRUM. + TYPOGRAPHIA, + ARS ARTIUM OPTIMA, + CONSERVATRIX, + HIC PRIMUM INVENTA + CIRCA ANNUM MCCCCXL. + +In order to reconcile the two Towns, I believe it might be granted, that +_Coster_ invented the Art of Cutting in Wood, which was formerly made use +of, and that _John Faustus_ of _Mentz_ invented the Characters of Metal, +that are used now. By this Means the two Parties will have equal Share in +the Glory of the Invention, which after all is disputed with them by the +_Chinese_, who prove that the Art of Printing was known to them two +thousand Years ago. + +As I walked about in _Harlem_, my Guide bid me look at certain Cambrick +Cockades trimm'd with Lace, which were tied to some of the Doors. He told +me, that this was to shew that the Woman of the House was in Childbed; +which procures the Husband a Protection, so that he cannot be arrested +during six Weeks that his Wife is supposed to lye-in. What was the +Occasion of the Grant of this Privilege, I could not learn, nor by what +Prince it was granted. + +The Walks of _Harlem_, especially that in the Wood, which is at the Gates +or the Town, would be charming, if they were not so sandy. On the other +Hand, the Canal which leads from this Town to _Leyden_, is one of the most +disagreeable in the Province, there being scarce any Thing upon its Banks +but Meadows and Downs. + +LEYDEN is one of the largest and finest Cities in the Country. It has been +subject, as all sublunary Things are, to great Revolutions and +Misfortunes. The _Spaniards_ besieged it in 1573, and as they despaired of +taking it by Force, they intended to reduce it by Famine. The Inhabitants +were drove to the utmost Misery, till they pierced the Dykes of the +_Maese_, and the _Issel_, by which Means all the great Meadows about +_Leyden_ became a perfect Sea of Water, and the _Spaniards_, in Danger of +perishing, raised the Siege: And the 3d of _October_ is annually observed +with Rejoicings in Memory of the Deliverance of the Town upon that Day of +the Month. + +The great Church, dedicated to St. _Peter_, is one of the finest +Structures in _Holland_. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall +Pillars. All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy, +and a great many have Canals. 'Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number +of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the +meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are +not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay'd, since the +Importation of Cloth from _Holland_ has been prohibited by some of its +neighbouring States. + +The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually +three great Men for Professors, _Vitriarius_ for the Civil Law, +_Boerhaave_ for Physic, and _s'Gravesande_ for the Mathematics. The first +is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing +himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_ +to _Leyden_. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of _England_ +excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir'd +than they are at _Leyden_: Nor is there any Place more proper for +Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how +they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here +don't value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in +_Germany_; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is +also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came +thro' this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease +in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look +like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much +describ'd, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches +here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven +Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families. + +The Passage from _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, whether by Land, or by the +Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and +fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that +these three Leagues seem as nothing at all. + +The HAGUE, which is called a Village, because 'tis not inclosed, and sends +no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless +a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is +certainly one of the finest in _Europe_. The States General, as well as +those of this Province, assemble here, and 'tis the Place of Residence for +the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of _Holland_ lived here. +Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their +Court here; and the _Hague_, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned +for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more +genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the +other Parts of _Holland_. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does +not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have +something more engaging than mere Beauty. + +The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho' perhaps not so +magnificent as those at _Amsterdam_; and here are some Palaces with +Gardens. + +The Palace which they call _the Court_, was anciently the Residence of its +Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric, +consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There +meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of _Holland_, +the Council of Nobles, and that of the _Gecommitteer de Raden_, or Deputy +Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their +Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one of which is called the +_Chamber of the Truce_, because the Truce for twelve Years was there +concluded with _Spain_. 'Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience +to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace, +in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies +of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for +lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their +Expence. It was built by Prince _Maurice_ of _Nassau_, after he returned +from his Government at _Brasil_, and he adorned it with all the Rarities +that are the Production of the _Indies_. But all these Things, as well as +the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the +Duke of _Marlborough_ set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the +Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this +House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho' +'tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance. + +The Palace of the _Old Court_ belonging to the King of _Prussia_, because +it fell to _Frederic_ I. by Inheritance from King _William_ III. is a +large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced +Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron +Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are +large and commodious, and there's a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings +by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much +embellished by the late King of _Prussia_, who gave Leave for all People +of Fashion to see it; but 'tis now neglected. The King's Minister, and +the[104] Count _de Hompesch_, General of the States Cavalry, have +Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you, +which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things +that are needless. + +The Situation of the _Hague_ is very different from that of the other +Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there's every Thing that +forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved +With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to +_Scheveling_, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the _Hague_. 'Tis +a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees +interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The _Delft_ Road, and that which leads +to _Loosduinen_, one or two Leagues from the _Hague_, are also very +beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks, +and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That +called the _Voorbout_ is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the +Coaches. There's a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in, +where in all the Summer Evenings there's very fine Company. 'Twas +_Charles_ V. that embellished the _Hague_ with this Walk. It has +occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the +most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. _de Thou_, the +_French_ Ambassador, and M. _de Gamarre_, the Ambassador of _Spain_. These +two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they +met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were +just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States, +who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their +Mediation, and proposed to both of 'em to return back at that very Instant +by the same Way they came. M. _de Gamarre_ was very ready to comply with +any Proposal; but M. _de Thou_ refused every one, and would by no means +admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of _Spain_. The +Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by +several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. _de +Beverwert_, the first of the Nobles of the Province of _Holland_, after +having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no +purpose, seeing M. _de Thou_ obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage, +proposed at last to M. _de Gamarre_, to drive off across the Ring; and for +doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two +Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would +have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The +_Spanish_ Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the +Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States, +might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased +themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained _the vain Honours of +Precedency_; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho' in short, if there were any +Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of _France_, because he +obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he +finished his Carrier, while the _Spaniard_ returned home, perhaps because +they had disputed so long till Night overtook them. + +The _French_, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the +most Disputes about this Matter. The Count _d'Estrades_, the Embassador of +_Lewis_ XIV. had one in this same _Voorbout_, with the Prince of _Orange_, +afterwards King of _Great Britain_. Their Coaches happened to meet, and +each of 'em aiming at the Post of Honour, they stopped over-against one +another. The Ambassador's Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined +by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of +the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been +very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock'd together for +the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to +prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him, +_I know not what the Prince's People mean; I was ignorant till now, that +the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign_ (implying that the Ambassadors +only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess +Dowager of _Orange_, to know whether the Prince's Governor was not more to +blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That +'twas the King of _England_'s Business to concern himself in the Affair; +for she imagin'd, that his _Britannic_ Majesty was bound in Interest to +support the Dignity of his Nephew's Rank. Nevertheless, she follow'd the +Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the +Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made +his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador's passed into the Rank which +he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince's +Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary, +they went a League from the _Hague_ to receive them, on the Part of the +States; insomuch that _Frederic-Henry_ the Prince's Grandfather, tho' upon +Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not +take the first Place. _Charles_ II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being +sold to _France_, he did not stand up for his Nephew's interests. + +Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of +such Foreign Ministers as reside at the _Hague_. + +M. _de Fenelon_, Brigadier of the _French_ King's Armies, is his most +Christian Majesty's Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is +Nephew to the Great _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_. He is esteemed for +his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His +Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the +Inhabitants of the _Hague_, who have not forgot what was spent among them +by my Lord _Chesterfield_, Ambassador from _Great Britain_, one of the +most sumptuous Noblemen in _England_, who was perfectly adored by the +common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of +Distinction. + +The Count _de Sinzendorff_, the Emperor's Plenipotentiary, has a great +Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great +_Sinzendorff_, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that +he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so +successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and +the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the _Ostend_ +Company, and to get the _Pragmatic Sanction_ guaranteed by their[105] High +Mightinesses. + +The Count _de Golofskin_ is Plenipotentiary Minister of _Russia_, which +Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He +is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He +passed his Youth at _Berlin_, and performed his Exercises at the Academy +founded by the late King _Frederic_ I. He was afterwards several Years +Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar _Peter the Great_, and from the +late Empress _Catharine_ to the Court of _Prussia_; from which Court the +present Empress _Anne_ sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of +_France_: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign's Affairs with +the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While +he resided at _Berlin_, he there married the Daughter of the late Count +_Ferassier de Dhona_, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of +_Denain_, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the +Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and +she has the most charming Family that is to be seen. + +M. _de Masch_, Envoy from the King of _Prussia_, is a very fit Person to +manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a +Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him +Governor to the Princes of _Brandenbourg Culmbach_, the eldest of whom is +actually the Prince Regent of _Bareith_. M. _de Masch_ has inspired those +Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor +of the Regency of _Cleves_, when the King sent him into this Country, +where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had +subsisted[106] between his _Prussian_ Majesty, and the Prince of _Nassau +Orange_, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King +_William_ III. + +M. _de Brosse_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, manages Affairs here for +the[107]King of _Poland_, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has +acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his +fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless, +he makes a grand Appearance. + +M. _de Sporck_, Minister here from the King of _Great Britain_, as Elector +of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very +young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his +Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, one of the wisest +Ministers of his Time, 'tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress. +He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does +the Honours of her Family to Perfection. + +I am not acquainted with the Envoys of[108]_Sweden_ and[109]_Denmark_. M. +_d'Ayrolles_ takes care of the Interests of the King of _Great Britain_, +and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business. + +Don _Lewis d'Acunha_, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of +_Portugal_, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important +Embassies. He was his Majesty's second Ambassador at the Congress of +_Utrecht_, which Employment he afterwards had in _England_, then in +_France_, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his +Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty +Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was +younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry. + +Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers +who reside at the _Hague_. Those of the States are not many. M. _de +Slingeland_ the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of 'em. The consummate +Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets +of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one +of its principal Pillars, and _Europe_ ranks him amongst its greatest +Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the +_Hague_ was what _Rome_ was formerly under a _Sixtus_ V. the Centre of +Politics. He succeeded the late M. _Hoornbeck_ in the Office which he now +holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation. +Tho' he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout, +he gives Application to Business[110]. + +His Second is the _Gressier Fagel_, one of the greatest Genius's of the +State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his +Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which +accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a +Library, which is a most learned Collection; and a Cabinet of Medals, and +of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done +by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious +Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he +takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. 'Tis pity that this +Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced, +cannot live for ever. + +'Tis certain that the _Hague_ contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of +both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of +Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were +I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my +Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of +such only as make the greatest Figure at the _Hague_, either on Account of +their Employments, or their Birth. + +The _Hague_ is the best Place in _Europe_ for a Foreigner to make a good +Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or +Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so +little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to +Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this +Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady _Albemarle_, M. _de Keppel_, +and the Count _de Welderen_. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of +_Albemarle_, General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, Colonel of the _Swiss_, +Governor of _Tournay_, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of +the _Keppel_ Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these +Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of _Orange_, who, when he came +to be King of _Great Britain_, created him a Peer of _England_, with the +Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and it may be +said, that my Lord _Albemarle_, and my Lord _Portland_, were two Noblemen +for whom _William_ III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord +_Albemarle_ maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his +Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any +Thing, but to leave every thing to the King's voluntary Grace and Favour. +This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in _England_. The Lady +his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs _Vander Duin_, Nobles of this +Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as +the first Lady of the _Hague_. + +M. _de Keppel_[111], the Brother of the late Earl of _Albemarle_, is a +Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment +of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High +Mightinesses to the Court of _Prussia_. He lives very grand at the +_Hague_, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear +a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame _de Keppel_, +heretofore _Welderen_, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible, +and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count _de Welderen_, +Deputy of the Province of _Guelderland_, to the States General, is not +inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a +Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after +appointed Ambassador to _England_, in order to congratulate their +_Britannic_ Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in +_England_ was very splendid, but the _English_ did not so much mind the +young Ambassador's Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back +with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of _England_, the +Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of _London_. At +his Return to the _Hague_, the Count _de Welderen_ resumed his Seat in the +Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his +House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a +Member of the Council of State, (they call him the _Waldgrave_) who is a +young Gentleman of great Merit. + +My Lady _Cadogan_, the Dowager of my Lord _Cadogan_, a trusty Friend of +the late Duke of _Marlborough_, and his Successor in his Employments, +keeps an Assembly every _Sunday_ Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of +_Richmond_, who is look'd upon at the Court of _England_, as one of its +Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, _viz._ my Lady _Margaret_, one of +the most amiable Ladies at the _Hague_. + +The Countess _de Wartemberg_, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of +_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, lives retired at the _Hague_, much after +the same Manner as the Duchess of _Mazarine_ did at _London_. She turns +Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners, +and there is very great[112]Play. But she is not so fond as the Duchess +of _Mazarine_ was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a _St. +Evremond_ wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always +give the Preference to a young _Alcides_. + +By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir, +that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There +is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another +alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they +being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of +the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The +Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an +_Hebrew_ Anti-Comedian has sent for from _Paris_, on Purpose to ruin the +Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a +zealous Man for the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector +should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the +_Hague_ are Parties in this great Quarrel; but 'tis my Opinion, that in +order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the +other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens +of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does +not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they +are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the +Police[113]. + +You will, no doubt, think it a Phaenomenon, to find that a _Hebrew_, whom +in _Germany_ we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither +very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the +Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste: +But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government +upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the +_Portugueze_ Jews, they deserve it; for a _Texeyra_, a _Schwartzo_, a +_Dulis_, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most +virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would +take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their +Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at +their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and +differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue. + +The Nobles of the greatest Distinction in the Province, are the +_Wassenaars_, and the _Boetselaars_.[114] The former are divided into +several Branches, whereof that of _Obdam_ is the eldest. The Emperor +_Charles_ III. raised this Branch to the Dignity of Count of the Empire. +The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Grandson to the famous Admiral of that +Name, who delivered _Copenhagen_, and in Gratitude for whose Services, the +King of _Denmark_ conferred the Order of the Elephant upon him, which no +Foreigner had been honour'd with before, unless he were a Prince. After +this Admiral's Death, the same Order descended to his Son, who died a +Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Service of +the Republic. The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Knight of the Order of St. +_John_, and, together with his[115] Brother, is of distinguish'd Rank in +this Government. He spent Part of his Youth at the Court of _Berlin_, +where his Father was Envoy Extraordinary. At that Time nobody was so brisk +and gay; but he is thoroughly changed, and lives now very much retired, +and applies himself wholly to Devotion and Business. + +Of the Blood of _Nassau Orange_, those Princes, Founders of the Republic, +there remains no more than one young Prince, besides the Counts +_d'Auverquerque_, _Zeist_ and _Laleck_, who are by the Left Venter. The +Prince is Hereditary Stadtholder of _Frieseland_, Stadtholder of +_Groningen_, Stadtholder and Captain General of the Province of +_Guelderland_, and the Country of _Drente_. He bids fair some Day or +other to be a worthy Possessor of the Station of the Princes whose Name he +bears[116]. + +_Maurice_, Count _d'Auverquerque_, is the Son of a Peer of _Great +Britain_, who was promoted to that Dignity by King _William_ III.[117] He +is a Major General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons. He is a +Nobleman of distinguished Merit, and signalized himself very much in the +last War. + +M. _de Zeist_, one of the richest Nobles of this Province, is Deputy of +the Province of _Utrecht_, in which he has a great Estate. + +The Count _de Laleck_ is the oldest Lieutenant General of Horse in the +Service of the States. He has a Regiment, and is Governor of _Menin_, one +of the Barrier Towns. The three last-mentioned Counts are Cousins, and +form three Branches. They are descended from Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_, +and _Anne_ of _Mechlin_. My Grandmother was a Daughter of that Prince. + +I am still to give you an Account of M. _Hogendorp_, Receiver General of +the State, an Office which in this Country, as well as elsewhere, is +liable to Envy, and exposes him that exercises it, to the Censure of the +Public. M. _Hogendorp_ has had his Share of both, for several Years: And +tho' his Enemies have not been wanting in any Thing to ruin him, yet he +stands his Ground, and the States approve of his Conduct. He lives with as +great Magnificence and Splendor almost as any Subject of the Republic. + +In one of my former, I gave you an Account of two living Preachers at +_Amsterdam_; and here I cannot refrain the mention of a certain Minister +lately dead, whose Name is illustrious among those of his own Communion, +and ours too. The Person I mean, is M. _Saurin_, who was always reckoned +here, and in all the Provinces, one of the most eloquent Preachers, since +the Repeal of the Edict of _Nantes_. + +A great Number of Epitaphs have been made for this famous Preacher; but as +they are all good for nothing, I content myself with sending you an +Epitaph on those very Epitaphs. + + _EPITAPHE._ + + On the EPITAPHS made for + M. SAURIN. + + _Sous ces tisons, sans titres, sans paraphes, + Incognito gisent vingt Epitaphes, + Qu'ont arrache de leurs maigres cerveaux, + Incognito vingt chetifs Poetereaux; + Difaut vouloir par detestable rime + Loiier encor certain Esprit sublime, + Dont rien ne dis, savon qu'a ses talens, + Vivant trouva force contradisans. + Chantres grossiers du bourbeux Marecage, + Pour Dieu, cessez votre maudit ramage! + Si noblement chanter n'est votre fort, + Dires tont court, Le_ grand Saurin _est mort._ + +_It may be thus Engslish'd_: + + _i. e._ + + Under these Firebrands + lie _incognito_, no less than a + Score of Epitaphs, without + Title or Subscription, rack'd + _incognito_ from the sterile Brains + of as many paltry Poetasters, + pretending by detestable Doggrel + to extol a certain sublime + Genius, of which I say nothing, + but that whilst he was + alive, he met with a great + many who contradicted his + Talents. But, for God's sake, + ye stupid Bards of the muddy + Fens, leave off your cursed + croaking! And as you have + not the Gift of noble Poetry, + say nothing more, than that the. + GREAT SAURIN is dead. + +During my Stay at the _Hague_, I heard much Talk of one _Armand_ a +_Frenchman_, whose extraordinary Adventures were at that Time the +Discourse of all Companies. He did not want Understanding, but he was one +of the oddest and most extravagant Mortals breathing. His Passions, which +sometimes rose to a Degree of Fury, were the Cause of all his +Misfortunes. I have been promised the History of him, and if my Friend +keep his Word with me, I will not fail to send it to you[118]. + + + _The History of_ John Barre, _called_ ARMAND. + +_JOHN BARRE_, a Native of the Province of _Burgundy_, appeared at +_Amsterdam_ in 1720, by the Name of _Armand_. He was a handsome Man, in +the Prime of his Age, and seemed to have had a good Education. He said he +was come from _France_, because he had killed a Man in a Duel. Any other +Man besides himself, in a Case of the like Nature, would have been at a +terrible _Nonplus_ to find himself pursued by Justice, and forced to fly +from his native Country, and his Friends, without Money, into a strange +Land, of which he understood not the Language, and thrown into a great +City, in the midst of a numerous People, where a poor Man is so hard put +to it to make an Acquaintance. But _Armand_ was never at a Loss for +Stratagems to relieve him. Being a bold intriguing Man, an excellent +Tongue-pad, and a Poet into the Bargain, or at least very ready of making +Verses, he quickly found Means to get Acquaintance. He might even have +passed for a Man of Quality, if Necessity had not forced him to make use +of a Talent which was a plain Discovery of the contrary; for he shewed +himself a complete Writing-Master, and made excellent Scholars in a very +little Time. + +With this Resource, _Armand_ might have lived very happy; but the Violence +of his Temper, and his satirical Humour, made him quickly lose his +Patrons and best Friends. Besides these Defects, of which he was beyond +all measure guilty, he was suspicious, haughty, self-will'd beyond +Comparison, fantastical in every Part of his Behaviour, and an extravagant +Admirer of his own Productions; so that a Person was sure of being thought +the worst Enemy he had, if he did not applaud every thing he did; and +'twas enough to put him into a Fury, if one did not think as well of his +Verses, as he did himself. Two or three Passages only are sufficient to +demonstrate this to be true. + +He lodged at the House of a Burgher, who had so great an Opinion of him, +that he thought himself happy in having such Opportunities of Familiarity +with a Man who had won his Heart by his Wit and his Behaviour. As they +often eat and drank together, _Armand_ invited his Landlord one Day with +all his Family and some Relations to a Supper, when, according to his +usual Way, he had provided a magnificent Repast. When they were seated at +Table, a Lady of the Company thought fit to call for a particular Sort of +Bread, which she had been used to eat; whereupon the Landlord immediately +sent out of the Room for some; which _Armand_ perceiving, and mistrusting +that they thought he had not provided Bread enough, he rose nastily from +Table, and went out, but came back again in a Moment, with a Basket full +of Bread, which he turned topsy-turvy upon the Table: And as if this Piece +of Rudeness was not enough, he ran out of the House like a Madman, and +spent the rest of the Evening in walking up and down, at a great Rate, +before his Door. + +Having heard, that M. _P----_, Agent for the Naval Affairs of _France_ at +_Rotterdam_, made Verses in a very pretty Manner; he went by the +Inspiration of _Apollo_, to pay him a Visit; and after having made him a +Compliment on his Quality of Poet, he presented him some Verses of his own +making, of which he earnestly desired that he would give him his Opinion. +M. _P----_, who was not so fond of Flattery as _Armand_, made him Answer, +That he had been misinformed; that he was far from being a good Judge of +Poetry, and therefore hoped he would not look upon him in that Light. +_Armand_ took his Answer for a downright Affront, and retired bluntly from +him, not without abusing him. Nor did Mr. _C----r_, to whom he paid a +Visit for the same Purpose, fare a whit better; and to be revenged of both +those Gentlemen, he wrote an Epigram against them, which he pasted up one +_Sunday_ at the Door of the _French_ Church. + +_Armand_ being disgusted with the Reception he met with from the Wits at +_Rotterdam_, had recourse to the Merchants. He went to see M. _C----t_, a +Person of known Probity, either to present his Verses to him, or to offer +him his Service, in Quality of a Writing-Master. As M. _C----t_ was a +little hard of Hearing, he thought it proper to apprize our Poet of it in +the first Place; but he, imagining that 'twas only a Pretence to dismiss +him, turned his Back upon him, and went away very much incensed at the +Affront which he thought he had received. He had even the Rashness to fix +up a very offensive Paper some Days after, at the Exchange, to tarnish the +honest Man's Reputation; and the same being immediately torn down by M. +_C----t_'s Friends, _Armand_, as soon as he heard of it, put up another, +even more insulting than the former. M. _C----t_, to prevent his being +again exposed to such Insults, carried his Complaints to the chief +Magistrate of _Rotterdam_, who summoned the Author of the Advertisement +to appear before him. _Armand_ obeyed the Writ, and pleaded in his own +Defence, that being a Foreigner, he did not know he had done any thing +that was prohibited by the Laws of the Country; but that having been +lately informed of the contrary, he was willing to make the Person injured +any Amends that should be thought proper, and promised at the same Time to +depart the City forthwith. The Magistrate put up with his Reasons, and +only insisted, on the Performance of his Promise. Therefore he left the +City, and set out to his former Quarters at _Amsterdam_. + +The ill Success of his Verses was so far from abating his versifying +Humour, that his Passion for Poetry was only become the stronger. At his +Return to _Amsterdam_, he began to write Satires against his Enemies at +_Rotterdam_, whom he accused of having ruined all his Projects. Then he +undertook to turn the tender Amours of _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_ into +Burlesque Verse. This Piece, full of Obscenities, and of satirical Lashes +of his Enemies, quickly ran thro' all the Coffee-houses; and when he +thought he had put the finishing Stroke to it, he met with a Bookseller, +who was willing to undertake the Printing of it, tho' it had been despised +by all good Judges. + +While this Work was printing, _Armand_ contracted a Friendship with the +Count _de Bucquoy_, so well known for his Adventures and Extravagances. +This Count too pretended to write Verses, and was as great a Rattle as +_Armand_. Their Resemblance of each other so much in Temper, was judged at +first to be such a Cement as would have consolidated their Friendship for +a long Time: But a too great Freedom taken by the Count embroiled them +implacably, and gave Rise to a Scene which had like to have been tragical. +The Count, who was not yet perfectly acquainted with his Friend's +Blind-side, took it into his Head one Day, as he was in _Armand_'s +Chamber, to make a Criticism upon his Poetry, which was a little too +severe. _Armand_, to whom nobody had ever presumed before to talk at that +Rate, was in a furious Passion, and called his Censor an impudent Fool, +and a Fortune-Hunter. At last the two Poets fell to Blows; but _Armand_ +being the strongest Man, he forced the Count out of his Chamber, kick'd +him down Stairs, and so drove him into the Street. + +We proceed now to that fatal Accident of _Armand_'s Life, which was the +Cause of all his Misfortunes, and brought him at last to the Scaffold. +_Armand_ had contracted a Friendship of a long standing, with a Person of +_Bayonne_, one _B----_, a young Fellow, who tho' destitute of a Fortune, +had been so lucky as to marry a very rich Heiress. At the Time when the +Public believed there was the strictest Union subsisting betwixt them, +they were strangely surprized to hear that _B----_ had informed against +his Friend, for a horrible Outrage; and that upon this Accusation _Armand_ +was arrested, and committed to Prison. _B----_ pretended that being one +Day in _Armand_'s Chamber, _Armand_ shut the Door upon him, and forced +him, with a Dagger at his Throat, to sign a Bond for a thousand Ducats. +_Armand_'s general Character was enough to condemn him; whereas _B----_, +on the contrary, passed for a young Man of an unblameable Behaviour; but, +to his Misfortune, the Affair was so circumstanced, that it could not be +duly prov'd; for, instead of calling out for Help, at least, as he went +out of the Room, he retired without saying one Word, and did not so much +as go and make his Complaint till two Days after: But for want of direct +Evidence against the Prisoner, he caused Inquiry to be made into his Life +and Conversation, and discovered, that _Armand_ was but a borrowed Name, +and that his true one was _John Barre_; that he had a Wife and four +Children; that he had been Receiver of the Salt-Office at _Vezelay_ in +_Burgundy_; in short, that he had kill'd his Brother-in-Law in the +Country, with a Fowling-Piece; and that having fled for it, he was +outlaw'd and condemn'd to be hang'd. + +When _Armand_ appear'd before the Judges, he fairly own'd what his +Accusers had alledg'd against him, with regard to his Name, the Place of +his Residence, and the Cause of his Flight; but he deny'd his having +murder'd his Brother-in-Law, tho' he confessed that he had kill'd him in +his own Defence. As what he had done in _France_, was quite out of the +Question; the Judges were only for adhering to the Point in hand. _Armand_ +said, that _B----_ had of his own Accord given him a Bond for a thousand +Ducats, in Acknowledgment for the Service he had done him, in lending him +some Money, and promoting his Marriage. He pleaded his own Cause very +courageously, without the least Trembling or Self-Contradiction. _B----_, +on the contrary, seemed to falter in every thing that he said, which made +it suspected by some, that he had only charg'd _Armand_, in order to have +a Pretext for not paying the Sum that he had promised him. Yet others, +with more Probability, ascribed _B----_'s Faint-heartedness upon this +Occasion to his natural Timorousness, and to the Confusion into which an +Accusation of this Nature, laid without any Proofs to support it, must +needs cast him. + +_Armand_ being very urgent for an Issue of the Affair, the Judges, who +found nothing that could support _B----_'s Pretensions, passed a Sentence, +Whereby the latter was to pay the thousand Ducats, and the Defendant was +to be set at Liberty, after giving Security for the said Sum, in case of +an Appeal to the Court of _Holland_, saving to himself the Liberty of +prosecuting his Adversary for Costs, Damages, Interest, and Reparation of +Honour. _B----_ did not fail to appeal from that Sentence to the Court, as +did like wise _Armand_, who having given the Security required, and +received the thousand Ducats, shews himself thro' the whole Town, with a +long Beard, which he suffered to grow in Prison, and which he swore should +not be taken off till he had carried his Cause at the Court. + +In order to hasten the Decision of the Affair, he repaired to the _Hague_, +where the Court at length passed a Sentence, which confirmed that of +_Amsterdam_; and then he sued for Repair of Honour, and for Damages and +Interests. _B----_ finding himself by this Means cast in all his Demands, +and fearing the Consequences of the Law-Suit, thought fit to set his +Affairs in Order, and withdrew to _France_. The Court immediately clapp'd +a Seal upon his Effects, summon'd him three times to appear, and 'tis +probable that he would have been condemned upon an Outlawry, if _Armand_'s +Misbehaviour had not put a sudden Stop to the Courte of Justice. The +Occasion of this Incident was as follows: + +_Armand_ was so impatient for the Issue of his Process, that he went every +Day to teaze his Judges, who sometimes were not at Leisure to grant him +Audience. Upon a certain Day, as he came to the Door of the +Attorney-General, one of the Domestics told him, his Master was not at +home; and the Man was going to shut the Door against him, when _Armand_ +said, _I know the contrary, and must needs speak with him_. Upon this they +fell to abusing one another, when _Armand_, losing all Patience, struck +the Domestic several Blows, and put the whole House in an Alarm, for which +he was carried to Prison; from whence however he might have had a speedy +Deliverance, if he would but have confessed his Fault, and made the +Attorney-General proper Satisfaction: But instead of doing this, he +behaved to Mr. Attorney in a strange Manner, and threatened to be revenged +of him. But he paid dear for his Insolence, and was sentenced to lie in +Prison twelve Years. He remained there till 1734, when the Court thought +fit to remove him to another Town, till the Expiration of the Term +mentioned in the Sentence. _Armand_ being acquainted with this Resolution, +imagined, no doubt, that he was now to be treated with more Severity than +ever, and perhaps that he should be privately dispatched; and from that +Time he had no Command of himself. He formed a Design to murder the +Archers when they came to meddle with him, or at least to prevent their +seizing him; and for this Purpose he had taken one of the Bed-posts, which +he not only armed with Nails, but fastened the Blade of a Penknife at one +End of it. Being thus prepared for his Defence, on the Day appointed for +his Removal; two Archers came to take him, of whom he ripp'd up the Guts +of one, and broke two Ribs of the other. After this, none of the Archers +durst venture to come near him, till the following Stratagem was thought +of, by which they effectually quelled him. Two Archers were ordered to +make each a Hole in the Wall of the Prison, and at the very Instant when +_Armand_ was peeping through one of them, to examine the Cause of it, a +Pistol was discharg'd in his Face, loaded with Sand, which put his Eyes, +Tongue and Face into such an Agony, that he was not able to defend +himself, but surrendered, and begged Quarter. At the same Time he was +seized, and clapped in Irons. When he was under Examination, he confessed, +that his Design was to murder any one that offered to remove him; and that +he would do it again, if it were in his Power; which Circumstance was such +an Aggravation of his Crime, that he was condemned to lose his Head. + +The View of approaching Death was so far from being shocking to him, that +he seemed perfectly unconcerned. But what was very observable in this +unaccountable Man, was that the dreadful Prospect of the infamous Death he +had so justly deserved, was so far from engrossing his Thoughts, that it +did not in the least abate the Fondness he had always discovered for his +Verses; so that at the very Time when a Minister was preparing him for +Eternity, he interrupted him short, by telling him, _Sir, Here are some +Verses of my own composing; I desire you would let me read them to you. I +always loved to divert myself with Works of this Sort_. An Attorney, who +was present at the same Time, performing the Office of a Comforter, seemed +to be shock'd at the Reading of a Composition so unsuitable to one in such +Circumstances; but _Armand_, looking on him with a very angry Countenance, +told him in plain Terms, That he was an Ass; and that he wondered how a +Man of his Profession, an Attorney, at constant Variance with Heaven, and +for ever and ever accursed, should take it into his Head to turn +Comforter, and pretend to make Peace between God and Man. + +The Day of Execution being[119] come, he was carried before the Judges to +hear Sentence of Death passed upon him: But they had scarce begun to +pronounce it, when he grew strangely outrageous, and said, 'twas unjust +to read his Sentence to him in a Language which he did not understand. It +was to no Purpose that they told him, it should be explained to him in +_French_; for he still rav'd on in the same Strain; so that they were +obliged to stop his Mouth with a Handkerchief, which they held tight +behind, by both Ends. However, upon his making a Sign that it strain'd him +too much, they slacken'd it, and then he promised, that if they would take +it quite off, he would keep a profound Silence. He was attended to the +Place of Execution by a Minister, and saluted such of his Acquaintance as +he saw mixed in the Crowd, with a Smile. When he was on the Scaffold, and +fixed his Eyes on the Gallows, he turned pale, saying, that he had been +promised different Treatment, and that he did not think he should be +turned out of the World in the Manner for which he saw that Preparation. +They encouraged him, by telling him, that he should only have his Head cut +off, if he did not use Violence; but that if he did, he should be hanged, +and hoisted up to the Gallows by a Pully, there for that Purpose. He made +Answer, that he did not care to swing out of the World by a Halter. He +then asked the Executioner, if he was perfect in his Business; to which he +answered in the Affirmative, adding, That he had by his Dexterity made +sixteen Heads leap already, with very good Success, and that he hoped his +would be the seventeenth to do him Honour. Then _Armand_ demanded where +the Sword was, and the Executioner told him, that it should be ready at +the Time. At last the fatal Moment being come, he fell on his Knees, and +as soon as his Eyes were blinded, he had his Head struck off at one Blow. + +I have nothing particular to tell you of the Palace at _Honslaerdyck_, and +of the[120] _House in the Wood_, which belong to the King of _Prussia_, +because they are neither of 'em what they were formerly. They are running +so to Decay, that shortly they will not deserve the Mention. As I passed +to _Honslaerdyck_, I went thro' the Village of _Loosduinen_, where I saw +in a Church, the Basin, in which, 'tis said, were baptized the three +hundred and sixty-five Children, of which a Countess of _Holland_ was +delivered at one[121] Birth, in Pursuance of the Wish, or rather Curse of +a poor Woman, who having a Charge of Children, and coming to beg Alms of +her, was not only denied, but rebuked for having so many Children; +whereupon she wished, that the Countess, who was then pregnant, might be +brought to Bed of as many Children as there were Days in the Year; which +happened accordingly. This remarkable Event is set forth in a Picture +carefully preserved in the Church. + +The Palace of[122] _Ryswic_, where the Peace was signed in 1697, being in +no better Condition than that of _Honslaerdyck_, I did not think fit to +strike out of the fine Road to DELFT, to go and see it. This Town, which +is a League from the _Hague_, has nothing remarkable to be view'd, besides +the Tomb of _William_ I. Prince of _Orange_, who was assassinated at +_Delft_, in 1584, by _Balthasar Gerard_, of the _Franche Comte_. The +Republic which caused this _Mausoleum_ to be erected, spar'd no Cost to +leave Posterity a Monument worthy of its Founders, and of their Gratitude +for the signal Services which had been done them by that Hero. The Arsenal +for the Land Service of this State, is at _Delft_, and there are few in +_Europe_ that are better furnished, or kept more in Order. This Town +drives a great Trade in earthen Ware. As it is at the same Distance from +_Ryswic_ as the _Hague_, the Ambassadors of _France_ resided here during +the Congress. 'Tis now inhabited by several People, who either from being +weary of the World, or by Reason of Misfortunes, have chose Retirement. +From hence you will imagine, 'tis not a very gay Place, so that I made no +Stay here, nor no Acquaintance. + +ROTTERDAM, three Leagues from _Delft_, is by much the most populous Place, +and is only inferior to _Amsterdam_, on Account of its Commerce. Its +Situation on the _Maese_, six Leagues from the Sea, gives it a +Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_, and the neighbouring +Provinces, both by means of that River, and several Canals and Rivers that +fall into it. Its greatest Trade is with _England_ and _France_, and here +are three _English_ Churches, _viz._ One that is Episcopal, or of the +Church of _England_ by Law establish'd, one _Presbyterian_, and one +_Scots_. As to us Catholics, we have several Churches here in Chambers, +and the Jews have a neat Synagogue. + +The Statue of _Erasmus_, the Restorer of the _Latin_ Tongue, which is +placed in the Market-place, is altogether plain. This learned Man is +represented in the Habit of a Doctor, holding a Book in his Hand. The +Pedestal is plainly decorated with a _Latin_ Inscription, as is the House +where he was born, which is preserved just as it was then, and is a very +small and mean Building. 'Tis said, that on the same Square where +_Erasmus_'s Statue stands, the Magistrates intend to erect a Stadthouse, +of which they are really in great Need, that which they have being a very +sorry one. If this Project takes, it were to be wished that they may +employ a more able Architect, and a more diligent one than they have made +use of in building an Exchange, which has been a long Time begun, and is +but half finish'd yet. 'Tis true, that as it is, 'tis too large for the +Number of Merchants that meet in it; but after all, 'tis amazing that a +City, which has the Reputation of being wealthy, should let one of its +principal Edifices stand unfinish'd. + +There are some magnificent Houses in this Town, but its greatest Ornament +is its Canals, broad and deep enough for the Entrance of Shipping, which +is a great Convenience to its Trade. I know not how sociable the People +are at _Rotterdam_; for tho' I have gone through it several times, I never +stay'd long enough there to make any Acquaintance in it. I always took the +Air for most part upon the fine Kay that runs along the _Maese_, which is +beautified with a pleasant Row of Trees on one Side, and noble Houses on +the other. + +From _Rotterdam_ I went thro' _Maeslandsluys_ to the BRILLE, a well +fortified Town upon the _Maese_, near the Mouth of that River. This Town +is famous in the History of the _Netherlands_, because in the Year 1572, +_William de Lumai_, Count _de la Marck_, and some of his Confederates, who +went out to Sea, to avoid falling into the Hands of the Duke of _Alva_, +took it by Surprize, and there laid the first Foundations of the Liberty +of the United Provinces. + +When I left the _Brille_, I came to HELVOETSLUYS, the saddest Place in all +_Holland_. The Winds, which have been boisterous for some Days, hinder the +Packet-Boat and me from setting out for _England_. In the mean time, I am +very ill here. I am cramm'd twice a Day with boil'd Ducks, roasted Ducks, +and others tossed up with a high Ragou, and yet I am ask'd if I will not +please to have more Seasoning. Perhaps it was this Town only that a +certain _Frenchman_ had seen, when he said that he had taken Notice of but +three Things in _Holland_, and they began all three with the Syllable Ca, +_viz._ _Canals_, _Canards_ (Ducks), and _Canaille_, _i. e._ Mob; for +certainly there are other Things to be seen in the rest of Holland, where +there are as many genteel People as in any Country in the World. Nay, I +dare affirm, that a certain Candour prevails here, which is perhaps not so +general elsewhere. 'Tis rare for a _Dutchman_ to know the Arts of Tricking +and Cheating, and he is of a friendly Disposition, if his Purse be out of +the Question. If they were not so much in Love with their Money, there +would be as few Faults to find with this Nation as any. I could like to +live with 'em very well. When one treats them with Civility, one may do +any thing with 'em. And it was a Saying of the Emperor _Charles_ V. _You +must give the_ Dutch _good Words, leave 'em the Shadow of Liberty, but +make them pay well for it_. + +Be these People as much as they will for their own Interest, they are +charitable, and would have every one live. They have not perhaps that gay +Wit, which is of all Things so taking; but then they have good Sense. I +have often taken a Place in the Boats, on purpose to hear what was said +there; and have been surprised to find the common People talk of Trade, of +the Interests of the State, and of other Countries, of the Manners of +different People, of the History of their own Country, and in short, of a +thousand other Things, with more Justness, perhaps, than a great many +Epigrammatists, Stanza-makers, and Rhymesters could do elsewhere. + +For the rest, this Country is as charming in some Things, as it is +disagreeable in others. 'Tis certain, that the People are now and then too +insolent; yet a _Dutchman_ does not care to be the first to give an +Affront; and unless a Foreigner provokes him by his Pride, or his +Pertness, he will indulge himself in his Phlegm. + +I can't imagine why Foreigners take a Pleasure to run down _Holland_, as a +Country where they have been skinn'd. This might have been the Case with +'em in such a Hole as _Helvoetsluys_, or else at _Rotterdam_, when one +_Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee, kept the Sign there of the Marshal _de +Turenne_; but 'tis not so in a good Town, where every Foreigner, I mean +such as are willing to be sociable, and to eat at the Landlord's Table, +know what they have for their Money. The Ordinary is settled, Wine, +Lodging, and every Thing at a certain Price. Suppers are the only Meals +that plunge deep in a Man's Purse, of which a Foreigner must be cautious. +As to Carriages, either by Land or Water, the Fare is fixed; and 'tis +impossible for a Man to be cheated, unless it be in frosty Weather, when +'tis certain one is at the Mercy both of the Watermen and Coachmen. + +'Tis wrong also for some Foreigners to cry out, as they do, against +Justice, which I find more impartial here than elsewhere. But it does not +always act with the Vivacity which a Foreigner would wish for, who often +has neither the Time, nor the Means, nor the Inclination to wait for it. +He then finds fault with Justice, when he ought rather to blame the +Situation of his Affairs. + +I fear that you will be angry with me for having abused your Attention by +this long Letter, which I now conclude, by assuring you, that nobody can +be more intirely than I am, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER LIII. + + + _SIR_, _London, April 12, 1733._ + +'Tis not possible for me to be insensible how greatly I am obliged to you +for that Uneasiness which you seem to be under, till you can hear of my +Arrival in some safe Harbour of this Kingdom, tho' 'tis no more than what +I expected from such a Friend as you. I should have prevented your Anxiety +upon this Score, if I had not thought it proper to take a little View of +this Country, before I wrote one Word to you about it; and now I flatter +myself that I am able to satisfy your Curiosity. + +I had one of the most favourable Passages that could be; for in less than +eighteen Hours, I came from _Helvoetsluys_ to _Harwich_, which is the +Harbour for the Packet-Boats that pass betwixt this Kingdom and _Holland_. + +_Harwich_ not seeming to me to be worth a Traveller's Notice, I only +stopped to hire Horses, and came with all Speed to London. _That City_, +which for its Extent, the Number of its Inhabitants, and their Wealth, may +pass, not only for the Capital of a powerful Kingdom, but even for the +Capital of _Europe_: _That City_, where True Liberty bears Rule; where the +Arts and Sciences are cultivated and protected; where the Inhabitants +enjoy the Goods of Fortune without vain Ostentation; where Merit is +considered, and Birth highly valued, when 'tis accompanied with Virtue: +_That City_, in fine, where are still to be found those _Roman_ Souls, +which other Nations admire, but know not how to imitate. + +Yet _London_, with all the Attributes I have now given it, with its +magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane, cannot be rank'd among +the finest Cities; for many of its Streets being dirty and ill-paved, its +Houses of Brick, not very high, nor adorn'd with Architecture, but +blacken'd with the unmerciful Smoke of Coal-fires, gives it a dark Hue, +which renders it far less agreeable than it would be otherwise. + +The Riches of _London_, if not of all _England_, are owing to the +_Thames_, and the Citizens set more Value by this River, than by any other +Advantage that they enjoy: Of this a certain old Alderman had the Courage +to give King _Charles_ II. a convincing Proof, at a Time when that Monarch +was so extremely angry with the City of _London_, that when the Lord Mayor +and Aldermen went to Court, with a View to pacify him, he exclaimed +bitterly against them, and told 'em, that he knew how to make them feel +the whole Weight of his Resentment, and that he would for that End remove +his Court to _Oxford_. At this the old Alderman, who pretended to be hard +of Hearing, said to a Nobleman that was present at the Audience, loud +enough to be over-heard by the King, _What says his Majesty_, my Lord? +_Will he in his Wrath take the_ Thames _from us?_ Meaning thereby, that +since the King could not take that River from the City, the Inhabitants +would not be sorry for his going to _Oxford_. Indeed, in all my Travels I +never saw a finer Sight than this River, from its Mouth to +_London_-Bridge: For besides its being continually covered with Ships, +Barges, Boats, &c. going up and down with the Tide, its Banks are adorned +with a Variety of fine Scenes, such as Towns, Villages, and +Country-Houses. Among others, there's the great and magnificent Hospital +of _Greenwich_, founded in the Reign of _Charles_ II. for disabled Seamen, +or the Invalids of the Navy. Tho' this Structure is not yet finish'd, it +may be rank'd amongst the most considerable in _Europe_, and is not +inferior in Grandeur to many Royal Palaces. Its Situation also is so +charming, that were it for that alone, it were worth while to take a Turn +on Purpose to see it. + +_London_ stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent. +The famous Bridge upon which Queen _Elizabeth_ caused the Head of the Earl +of _Essex_ to be exposed, after having flatter'd him that he should one +Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty +broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp'd by Houses on both Sides, +which are neither fine nor lofty. + +St. _Paul_'s Church, the Cathedral of _London_, is, next to St. _Peter_'s +at _Rome_, the greatest and most stately Temple in _Europe;_ and I even +question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. _Peter_'s, if +it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only +the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar'd. The +principal Front of St. _Paul_'s is of that sort of Architecture which the +old _Romans_, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have +thought unworthy of their Time; tho' 'tis certain this beautiful Front is +render'd the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very +_Gothic_ Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This +whole Fabric stands by itself, and is built in the Form of a Cross, with +a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos +on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the principal Front there's an +Area, encompass'd with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white +marble Statue of Queen _Anne_, in whose Reign this Church was finish'd; +which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of +_Charles_ II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her +Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but 'tis so much like a +Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an[123] _Amende +honorable_: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it +represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of +_London_, by whose Order 'twas erected. All the Church is of very white +Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of _London_, has rendered black on one +Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome +only is painted of an _Ash_ Colour. The Choir (for the Church of _England_ +retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just +such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the +Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or +Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they assist at _Te Deum_, are +of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The +subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain Vaults, in which +are interred such People as they belong to. + +The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which +consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King _Charles_ II. is a +very lofty Pillar of the _Doric_ Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in +the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence +there's a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes. + +The _Royal-Exchange_, where the Merchants meet at One o'Clock every Day, +is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned +with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of +it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the +Statues of the Kings that have reigned in _England_; which are of +Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King _Charles_ II. in +whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and +is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a _Roman_ +Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in _London_; where indeed +Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can't conceive; +since most of the _English_ Nobility have been in _Italy_, and have there +acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious. + +The famous Tower of _London_, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this +Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the _Thames_, at the Extremity of the +City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without +Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself, +Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the Arsenal of Arms; and in +this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro' good +Fortune, the Reign of King _George_ II. now upon the Throne, has been so +free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners. + +As one goes up the _Thames_ towards St. _James_'s, End of the Town, where +the King and most of the Nobility reside, one passes along by a Palace +called the _Savoy_, because it was built by the Princes of _Savoy_, Uncles +of Queen _Eleanor_ of _Provence_, Wife to _Henry_ III. This Building has +nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The +Chamber is still to be seen here in which _John_ II. King of _France_ was +imprisoned, who, like _Regulus_, came and re-delivered himself into the +Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not +disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which +were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to _France_. + +The Palace of _Whitehall_, which is the common Landing-place for People +that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly +before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of +_William_ and _Mary_. There's a Pile of Building yet standing, which is +magnificent, and is called the _Banquetting-House_. I was here shewn the +very Window which the unfortunate _Charles_ I. came out of, when the +Usurper _Cromwel_ made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the +Buildings called by the Name of _Whitehall_, are now in the Hands of +private Owners, by Grants of the late King _George_ I. + +St. _James_'s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from +_Whitehall_ by St. _James_'s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable +to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes +in _Europe_ worse lodged than the King of _England_. I have been assured, +that the Nation offered the late King _George_ I. to build him a new +Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his +Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he +thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for +the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of +Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was +more urgent, and more useful. + +St. _James_'s Park is the same Thing here as the _Thuilleries_ are at +_Paris_; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow +Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Canal in the middle of the whole. Mean +time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ'd, tho' +the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. _Charles_ +II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make +Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to _Paris_ for the +famous _Le Neautre_, the Man that laid out the Garden of the +_Thuilleries_, and the Park at _Versailles_. But this _Frenchman_, after +having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did, +assuring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The +grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but +especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in +it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of +the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or +Character, to walk there at the same Time with 'em; for which Reason the +Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the +most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear +here in rich Dresses; for the _English_, who Twenty Years ago did not wear +Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb'd as much as +the _French_; I speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still +contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine +Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don't +make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere. + +Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of _Marlborough_ and +_Buckingham_ are the most considerable. The former is very richly +furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. 'Tis occupied by the +Dowager of that great Duke of _Marlborough_, who led the _English_ to +triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble. + +_Buckingham_ House is not so big as _Marlborough_ House, but infinitely +better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. _James_'s Park, and is +only separated from it by Grates of Iron. 'Tis one grand Building, with +two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of +the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle +of the Court there's a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and +magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Canal, which was +actually begun, but remains unfinish'd. This fine House is occupied by the +Duchess Dowager of _Buckingham_, a natural Daughter of King _James_ II. + +St. _James_'s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of _London_ in +general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and +want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that +cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that _Lewis_ +XIV. offered _Charles_ II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave _London_, +provided _Charles_ would furnish him with Gravel from _England_, to lay in +the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true, I know not; but +it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the _English_ +Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and _London_ is +still the Sufferer for want of it. + +There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my +Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning +them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving +them. As these are encompassed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much +like Church-yards. St. _James_'s Square is the most considerable in +_London_, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of +the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece +of Water, surrounded with an iron Balustrade. Three Sides of this Square +are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the +fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this +Square live the Earl of _Strafford_, Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the +Congress at _Utrecht_; and the Duke of _Norfolk_, a _Roman_ Catholic, Earl +Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of _England_, Chief of the +Illustrious Family of _Howard_; from whence was descended _Catharine_ the +Fifth Wife of _Henry_ VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the +unfortunate _Anne Bullen_, who preceded her. The Duke of _Norfolk_'s House +here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures. + +_Grosvenor_'s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St. +_James_'s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle +of the Garden is the Statue of King _George_ I. on Horseback, of Lead, +gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in +_London_, the best is that of _Charles_ I. represented on Horseback in +Brass. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper +_Cromwell_ having caused it to be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a +Founder, who happen'd to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it +under Ground, till the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to whom he made a +Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at _Charing-Cross_, +where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image +that has escap'd the Fury of the _Iconoclastes_. + +Since, the Accession of the _Hanover_ Family to the Throne of _Great +Britain_, _London_ is infinitely larger than it was. There's one intire +Quarter goes by the Name of _Hanover_. The Parliament being apprehensive, +that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself, +pass'd an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new +Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would +nevertheless have been too large. + +I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to +give you a general Idea of _London_, and not a very exact Plan, that being +a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed. +Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you +with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to +Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of _Montagu_, Son-in-Law to the +late Duke of _Marlborough_, is the most considerable. The Apartments are +large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly +those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of _Phaethon_ +is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are +not furnish'd, and 'tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House +to the Count _de Montijo_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador. + +Of the modern Churches that of St. _James_, which is the Parochial Church +of the Court, is the finest, having a Portico before it, supported by +Columns, after the Manner of the _Rotunda_ at _Rome_. + +The Abby Church of _Westminster_, in which the Kings are crown'd and +interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings, +and other Persons illustrious either for their Birth or Merit. _Henry_ the +VIIth's Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very +magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of _Newcastle_. That of the +late Mr. _Craggs_, who was Secretary of State to King _George_ the Ist, is +plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the +_Grecian_ Manner, and leaning in a very noble Attitude upon an Urn. The +famous _St. Evremont_ has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The +Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a +short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his +Friend my Lord _Galloway_. + +Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is +one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the +Stone which served for _Jacob_'s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious +Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much +neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that +pious King _James_ II. The _English_ would do well to make a Present of it +to the Republic of _Venice_, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with +the Piece of _Moses_'s Rock in St. _Mark_'s Church. The Cardinal +_Cienfuegos_ shew'd me a Piece of it, when I was last at _Rome_: He told +me, that he stole it in his Return from _Portugal_, where he had been +Ambassador, when he came to _London_ with a Commission from the Emperor to +King _George_ I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty +of in his Life; and that he should have been exceeding scrupulous of +committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour'd in _England_ as it +deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help +filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a +Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen'd to be looking +another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been +so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had +given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece; +and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole +Stone. O Lord! cry'd the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish +then I had purchased it. + +In _Westminster_ Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which _Edward_ I. that +proud Conqueror of _Scotland_, caused to be brought from the Abbey of +_Scoon_ to that of _Westminster_, in order to give the _Scots_ to +understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country. +Ever since that Time the Kings of _England_ have made it a Rule to be +seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation. + +The Palace of _Westminster_, tho' formerly noted for the Residence of the +Kings, and now for the Assembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain. +The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one +of the largest in _Europe_. + +The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not +much ornamented, nor is the King's Throne in it at all magnificent: They +say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an +Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of +_Great Britain_ being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august +Body in the Universe. + +When the King goes to meet his Parliament, 'tis with all the Splendor of +Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress'd in Royal +Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King +of _France_, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac'd in a Corner, +with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of _Wales_ alone, +as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers +sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet +had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the +late King his Father there; and I assure you, that the Sight of this +august Assembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don't +know that I was ever impress'd with before. When I saw that King, the Best +and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal Assent to what the Peers +of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I +thought I saw _Augustus_ in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the +Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless +the Parliament does not always applaud the King's Measures; but on the +contrary makes a noble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon +the public Liberty. 'Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which +depriv'd the _Stuart_ Family of the Throne, the Kings and their +Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the +Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he +finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant. +All that find Fault with the _English_ for Disaffection to their Kings, +have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who +think a King of _Great Britain_ is to be pity'd because he is not +absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A Monarch of _England_ is +capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no +Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this +Expression, 'tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What +needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man +can be pitied, because 'tis not in his Power to make Millions of People +miserable? For my part, I think that the _English_, who do not stand up +for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who +oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is +once established. + +What I admire in the _English_, is not only the Firmness with which they +plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we +see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their +Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An _Englishman_, on the +contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what +the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the +State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish'd and +far-fetch'd, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and +enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true +_English_ Nobleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his +Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him: +He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose +the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King +has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being +solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An +_Englishman_ who should write such Letters as _Bussi Rabutin_ wrote to +_Lewis_ XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised in _England_, as +_Bussi_ was esteemed in _France_. They that are out of Favour, are not +shunn'd here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being +abandoned by their Friends, that a Nobleman has often a greater Levee in +his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can't but +think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is +sometimes push'd too far. I have been told, _a propos_, that Queen +_Catharine_ of _Portugal_, Wife of _Charles_ II. having forbad a certain +Lady to come to Court, for having behav'd in a Manner that gave Offence, +the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she assured +her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again, +'till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen +was dead, and exposed to View at _Westminster_. + +His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D----ess of _Q----y_ +to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that +Lady's Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign'd +his Employment of V----e A----l of _Sc----d_, and absented himself from +Court; but the D----ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as +ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only +shunn'd here for being a Criminal, or a Coward. + +There's no King serv'd with greater Respect than a King of _Great +Britain_: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very +numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his +Court is always very much throng'd; and in short, he wants nothing of the +Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable +for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and +responsible to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong. + +The present King is not tall, but very well shap'd, has a stately Port, a +very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The +_French_, _English_, and the _Italian_ Languages are as familiar to him as +the _German_. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear +the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur, +he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an [OE]conomist, +without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a +Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively +Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the +other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a +quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of +_Hanover_, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the _Netherlands_ at the +Battles of _Oudenarde_ and _Malplaquet_; as Prince of _Wales_, he shew'd +that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he +makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His +People are happy under his Reign. In _England_ his only Study is to +maintain the Peace and Balance of _Europe_, to make Commerce flourish, and +to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At _Hanover_ +he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their +Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his +Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of +their Kings, his _Britannic_ Majesty may hope for one of the longest of +Reigns. + +The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges +Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic, +but accompany'd with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most +courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is +adorn'd with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look'd upon all the +trifling Amusements of her Sex with Disdain; and particularly never +affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one +of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the +most learned Princesses in _Europe_. Having lost the Margrave of +_Brandenburg Anspach_ her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother +the Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_ marrying again to _John George_ IV. +Elector of _Saxony_, she was left under the Guardianship of _Frederic_ +Elector of _Brandenburg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_; by which means she +spent Part of her early Days at the Court of _Berlin_, where the +Electoress, who was Sister to the late King _George_ I. gave her a +Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime +Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach'd her. The +young Princess of _Anspach_ had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and +the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of _Charles_ III. King of +_Spain_, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But +the Princess was so strongly attach'd to her Religion, that she refused +both. God reserv'd her, no doubt, to make _Great Britain_ happy, and she +married the Electoral Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. Not many Years +after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her +Father-in-Law and her Husband call'd to the Possession of one of the chief +Thrones in the World. I was then at _Hanover_, and will venture to assure +you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their +Greatness with a Moderation which render'd them worthy of their Fortune; +and the Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly +satisfy'd in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that +both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye, +because they so highly deserved that Title. When she became Princess of +_Wales_, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which +then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her, +and she in return paid him very great Respect. And[124]now that she is +Queen, her Majesty contributes all that's in her Power to make the +Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the +Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence. + +Among the Joys of their _Britannic_ Majesties we ought to reckon the +numerous Family with which Heaven has bless'd 'em. It consists of two +Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and Title of +Prince of _Wales_, tho' he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when +among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish'd to be the chief Personage. He +is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said +of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous. +He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating +Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is +Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is +perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing +that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The _Hanoverians_, among whom he +was educated, ador'd him, and the _English_ seem altogether as fond of +him. + +The young Duke of _Cumberland_, second Son to their Majesties, resembles +what the Painters represent to us by the Name of _Cupid_. He has Sense +infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He +speaks _English_, _High-Dutch_, _Latin_, and _French_; and I think more +than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen +Years of Age[125]. + +Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other +two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the +_Princess Royal_[126], has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty +and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as +engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all +Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of +good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to +Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing; +and they say, she is generous and beneficent. 'Tis a Pleasure to see her +on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the +Virtues becoming her high Birth. + +The Princesses _Amelia_ and _Caroline_, were they not the most shining +Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot +fail in time of making some Prince or other happy. + +With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter, +which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks +without Delay. In the mean time be assured, that I am always with an +inviolable Attachment, &c. + +[Illustration] + + + + + LETTER LIV. + + + _SIR_, _London, May 4, 1733._ + +The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court. +The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that +Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don't +seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of +unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve +to fatigue it. + +'Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their +Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to +send in one's Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty's Lord +Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen's Master of the Horse. +People go to the King's Levee, and the Queen's Drawing-Room, as they do in +_France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none +eat with 'em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square, +in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_ +on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service +here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is +plac'd in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very +Cieling, which are fill'd with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same +Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at Court. Three times +a Week there's an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is +open'd at Ten o'Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the +said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the +Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St. +_James_'s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who +is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters. +Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they +are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy +to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal, +and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little +before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there's no +Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the +Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_'s Park, or +the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most +part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which +Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal +_Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV. +began to build; was reckon'd the finest Palace in _Europe_. + +The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his +Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT +WALPOLE is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_ +that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not +less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary +Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of +_Europe_; where 'tis confess'd to be owing to his Direction that the +Cabinet of St. _James_'s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and +that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all +Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended +with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho' admir'd by the +whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly +valued in his own Country, which he crown'd with Glory and Prosperity. I +shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman's private Character, +because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business +with him, I see him pass along; and that's all. I want some Neutral Man +(that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that +knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so +fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights +as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk'd of in Public as one that +understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who +thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom +nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there's no Man more +bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true +Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament; +where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass'd; and the +Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him. + +His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of +Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know, +was for a long time Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_, +and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign'd the +Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when +the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at +which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in +Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_ +I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him +with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his +constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny'd +that his Lordship behav'd with very great Prudence in the Changes that +happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This +Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I +made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul'd by the Duke of +_Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that +Duke. "He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom +with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all +the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we +had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress; +that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could +happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him, +that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and +but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the +Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach +myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an +Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the +Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me +was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_ +Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To +which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that +I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in +Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him." In the same Conversation +the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the +profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when +Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and +Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the +Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he +has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no +great Expence. + +The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely +civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs, +in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel +_Stanhope_, gain'd Reputation as Ambassador in _Spain_, and at the +Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can +vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the +World. He is good-natur'd, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy +of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will +like him. + +I don't think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so +haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think, +that they who say the _English_ are not civil to Foreigners, have not been +very conversant with 'em. 'Tis true, they are not so engaging as the +_French_; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and +courts their Favour, in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil +as any other People in the World. An _Englishman_ won't be saying at every +Turn, _That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has +the Honour to say, to hear_, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps +once in a Conversation, and that's all; nor, on the other hand, does he +want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows. +As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as +frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the +_English_ are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly +all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their +Travels to _France_, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come +into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they +have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire. + +There are some _English_ People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget +the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage +to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and +ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was +convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper, +which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast +is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take +Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself, +and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In +short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I +shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me, +that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People, +'tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them +understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don't care to speak foreign +Languages; and when they do, 'tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now +Constraint is what the _English_ don't at all like; for as they enjoy the +greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to +every Thing which cramps it. + +Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what +the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so +much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the +Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not +following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these +two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by +several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the +one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great +a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it +seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom, +and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don't surfeit +themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and +which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my +Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a +complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled +to the Manners and Customs of the _English_. + +A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a +Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho' they differ widely +in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their +Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho' _London_ has not +such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as +senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a +great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion +and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I +think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are +as many at _London_ as at _Paris_. + +The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what +Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter, +and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to +prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are +more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the +Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St. +_Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of +Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of +_England_. We don't hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are +committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here +than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given +them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to +give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. 'Tis +inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their +Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I +give you the following, because I think 'twas very well contrived. + +As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely +bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of +the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale, +where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach, +said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; 'tis worth a hundred Pieces +between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood +his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his +Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing +that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him, +that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so +that my Lord could not recover his Money. + +As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much +more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder +near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon +the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe, +he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he +sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came +hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They +gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he +was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were +just going to condemn him, when he ask'd them, At what o'Clock the Murder +was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to +think_, said he, _that 'twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of +which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place +where 'twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to +be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty. +Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask'd him +privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise +to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact. + +I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you, +that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their +Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There +are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is +condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or +Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank +with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than +twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found. +The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be +agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed +Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but +two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which +the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm. + +It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as +humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions; +as if 'twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that 'twas not enough to +take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one +Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it. + +The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason +of the Courage with which most of 'em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw +five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well +pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not +performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not +that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes +a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows +here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of +it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the +Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull +him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without +Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least +of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen. + +'Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be +intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of +that Contempt of Life; yet we can't help admiring it in the _Romans_, from +whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End +to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but +too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well +as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters +from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang'd themselves +at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought +unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not +apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror. +Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for +such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other +Nations don't seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the +_English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one +rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the +_English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater +Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice? + +A great many of 'em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if +I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be +for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty +and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and +such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho' not universally pleasing, yet +captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I +should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are +handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to +pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. 'Tis a Pleasure to see +them blush. The frankest of 'em retain an Air of Modesty, which would +persuade one, that they don't affect to be wicked. They are commonly very +richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies, +which is the only Fault that I find with 'em. They seem to affect Dressing +to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves, +which don't reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no +Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat +Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and +monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and 'tis as rare to +see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a +full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_ +a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in +their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set +themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should +be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and +Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country, +which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good +Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of +the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is +very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill +becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I +believe 'tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning +Virtue. + +The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give +and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being +seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most +Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks, +Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved, +have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their +Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly +of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look'd upon one +another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other +Place where there's a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue +stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn +out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in +form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and +in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take +the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind +to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble +themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and +of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their +Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here +than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great +deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_'s Love for +_Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country. + +The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have +known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought +_London_ too dull a Place for 'em to live in. Others would argue with me, +that there's more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related +to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have +given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be +taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify'd_ or _Italianized +Englishmen_, and me. + +A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a +Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the +other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee, +has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium +betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the +Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes +his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body'd Coat, +without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword +at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly +the Place he walks to, because 'tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There +he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes +home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or +Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for 'tis a sort +of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this +Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often +look at one another, without opening their Lips; and 'tis very well they +are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other +Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no +hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in +St. _James_'s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time, +is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes, +and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs +nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o'Clock, they go to +Court, to the King's Levee, and from thence to the Queen's Apartment, +where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three +o'Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are +very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private +Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at +the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a +Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don't drink the same Sort, with +Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the +Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he +pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always +drink too much, because they sit too long at it. + +When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out +again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or +else on Foot to St. _James_'s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till +the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate +Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera's or +Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative, +sometimes at one Lord's House, and sometimes at another's, or else they +repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies +formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded +by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after +what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse +himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who +say that this City is too melancholy for 'em, only say so to give +themselves an Air. + +At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy +as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each +Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason +that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance +of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love +with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and +in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together +make very good Fare. There's one Custom established in these Houses, which +to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man's +Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a +Kiss, which tho' but a very modest one, 'tis a Pleasure to see a Colour +come into the Lady's Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second +Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has +been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House: +And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House +at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four +times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would +serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_ +keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay +their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of +their Class in the World. + +The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there's the best of +Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the +Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and +dirty. + +The Assemblies here are so throng'd, that there's hardly any stirring. +Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables. +Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm +of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass +mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another's Health; but 'tis +in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation. + +The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at +the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw +a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand +in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated +with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable, +besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous +Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely +illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there's Play. +The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform'd by the ablest Musicians +in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these +Balls the Company are often mask'd, and then the King and the Prince of +_Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses +are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well +dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for +there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The +_English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a +time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives +Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are +so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the +_French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_. + +As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of 'em than any +other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most +magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea +for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though 'tis always crouded, +yet it won't defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the +Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant; +but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is +_Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents +in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one +_Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression, +but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think +his Music not so affecting as 'tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine, +and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_. +The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form +Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good +Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax +candles. There's Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque +Interlude. + +Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there's an _English_ one, where they sing +only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than +when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or +beating himself. + +The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has +been severely criticiz'd by the _French_, who say, 'tis not comparable to +theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very +gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my +Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the +_French_ are too much cramp'd by their Rules, and the _English_ not +enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste, +the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho' the _English_ are not +such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of +Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much +prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own +Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces, +where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of +_Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has +had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed +by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom +of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was +a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men. + +The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in +which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner +very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare +with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and +their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not +the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all +the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_ +does with Falcons. + +The Swiftness of the _English_ Horses is the Reason that there are +Horse-Races every Year at a Place called _Newmarket_; and this really is +what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several +Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in _Italy_. +They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend +which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of +them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without +a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with +'em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds +Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of +_Plutus_, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to +be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him. +Such is the Custom of the _English_, who not only pay those handsomely who +contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be +seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such +Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that +play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have +also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer +has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then +taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a +Favourite of the Town, as Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for +whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than +they shall make use of, for the Party's Encouragement. This Generosity of +the _English_ towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a +particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing +too fine, nor too dear. Thus, 'tis not to Assiduity that they are willing +to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and +their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abbes of _Rome_, +of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress. + +These Abbes put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called _Chaplains_, +whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the +Reformation of the Church of _England_, their Revenues were not very much +impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know +not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the +same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine, +that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the _English_ are subject +to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the +Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. 'Tis said that +they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform +Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead +of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that +extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which +commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you +of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the +_English_ Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals, +Prize-fighters, Wrestlers, and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that +contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and +Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the _English_ are descended +from _Mutius Scaevola_, because, like that _Roman_, they despise Pain. +Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with +Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. _James_'s +Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many +Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped +himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this +State of Nature he travers'd along the Mall, thro' an infinite Concourse +of People. The Ladies, astonish'd at such a Sight, knew not how to keep +their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces +with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him +pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths, +near _Whitehall_, where he left 'em; and as he had won the Wager, +abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him +Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur'd and happy as the +_English_. + +Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the +Parties they make for the Country. This the _English_ set a great Value +upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very +beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always +a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the +Country the _English_ live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at +_London_ they live for most part like mere private Men. + +Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of _London_, +particularly along the _Thames_. I cannot conceive how a Native of +_England_, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to +leave these Regions, as a great many _English_ nevertheless do, who prefer +Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I +confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in _England_, I +would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the +Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so +troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, 'tis for this Cause +that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape +does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is +supplied by the Grapes of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are imported here +in Abundance. + +One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the +happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and +well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain +Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination +which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who +makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv'd by him as his Equal, without being +made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the +Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here; +for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of +Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them. + +The Great Men here, as well as in _France_, don't scruple to marry Women +of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made +between the _English_ Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The +_English_ are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom, +and we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage, +when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of +their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant's Daughter, she +sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish'd Family; whereas +in _France_, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian. + +These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I +wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I +may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean +time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly +persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &c. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + + An Alphabetical INDEX + + TO THE + + SECOND VOLUME. + + + A + + _Abbes_, _Italian_, 69, 70. + Five or six club for one Mistress, 469. + + _Abbesses_ that preach'd, bless'd and confess'd, 195. + + _Academy, French._ + Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour, + 266, 267. + + _Acquaviva_, Cardinal, 4, 44, 55. + + ---- _Charles_, Pr. of, 136. + + _Acunha, Lewis de_, 406. + + _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, 49. + + _Agnus Dei_'s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and + Consecration, 99, _&c._ + + _Agrippa_, Emperor, 7. + + _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, 332. + + _Aignan_, (_St._) Duke _de_, 85, 123. + + AIX LA CHAPELLE, _t._ 327. + Reliques exposed there, 329. + + _Aix_ Parliament. + The _Jansenists_ with the Members hang'd, 194. + An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than _Pilate_, _ibid._ + + _Alacoque Maria_, made a Saint by a Bishop, 202. + + _Alais_, Count de, 217. + + _Albano_ Cardinal, 15, 16, 37, 78, 88. + + ---- Painter, 359. + + _Albemarle_, Earl and Countess, 407, 408. + + _Alberoni_'s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of + Churches, 75. + _Clement_ XIth's Design to deprive him of the Hat, 88. + + _Albert_, Archduke of _Austria_, 313. + + _Albert the Great_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, 327. + + _Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, 336, 342. + + _Albin, St._ Abbe of, 291. + + _Alcmaer_, t. 392. + + _Alegre_, Marshal, 339. + + _Alexander Farnese_, 39. + + _Alexander_ VI. Pope, 97. + + ALEXANDRIA _de la Paille_, t. 151. + + _Aliberti_, Count, his Theatre, 65. + + _Alincourt_, Marquis _de_, 174, 175. + Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of _Lyons_, 175, 176. + + _Almanza_ Victory, to what ascrib'd, 259. + + _Alstein_, a _German_ Minister, 382. + + _Altelli_, General of the _Corsicans_, 150. + + _Alva_, Duke of, 317. + + _Ambiorix_, King, 321. + + _Ambrun_, Council of, 240. + + _Amelia_, Princess, 448. + + _Amende honorable_, Punishment, what, 433. + + _Amerongen_, Brigadier _de_. + The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life, + 320. + + AMSTERDAM, _t._ 317, 371. + + _Anabaptist_, _Dutch_, his Zeal for Comedy, 410, 411. + + ANDERNACH, _t._ 348. + + _Angelo, Michael_, 33, 37. + + _St. Angelo_, Castle, 31. + + _Angervilliers_, M. _de_, 238, 239. + + _Anne_ of _Austria_, 198. + + ---- of _Bavaria_, the Palatine, 218. + + ---- Queen of _England_, Reflection on her Statue at St. _Paul_'s, 433. + + ---- Princess Royal of _England_, 448. + + _Anna Maria Frances_ of _Saxe-Lawenburg_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Antin_, Duke of, 188, 199. + His Son, 226. + + _Antonine_ Pillar, 3. + + _Antoninus Caracalla_, Emperor, 38. + + _Antoninus_ and _Faustina_'s Temple at _Rome_, 35. + + ANTWERP, _t._ 317. + + _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, 338. + + _Archduchess_, Governess of the _Netherlands_, 299, to 302, 304. + + _Ardicinio_, Cardinal, 87. + + _Aremberg_, Duke _de_, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces + in the _Austrian Netherlands_) 297, 298, 299, 306. + + _Argenson_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, 210, 236, 245, 385. + + _Armagnac_, M. _de_, 251. + + _Armand_ his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._ + + _Armenonville_, M. _de_, 236. + + _Arno_, R. 141. + + _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister, 132. + + _Asfeldt_, Baron _de_, 339. + + _Asperen_, Count _de_, 403. + + _Assassins_, Sanctuary at _Rome_, 75, 76. + + _Assemblies_, at _Rome_, 69, 70, 71. + + _Astalli_, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of + his Hat, 93 to 95. + + ASTI, _t._ 151. + + _Astrologer_, _Turkish_, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father, + Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, 140. + + _Athlone_, Earl of, 366. + + _Aubigny_, _Theodore de_, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author, + 264. + + ---- _Frances de_, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness _de + Maintenon_, 262 to 265. + Her Family, 264. + + _Audenarde_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153. + + _Audiences_, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, 55, _&c._ + + _August_, Snow in that Month, 13. + + _Augustus_, Emperor, 7. + + ---- King of _Poland_. The Countess of _Wartemberg_'s Attack upon him, + 410. + + _Auricular Confession_, why abolish'd throughout the _East_, 195. + + _Author_, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, 286, + _&c._ + ---- At what Age he could like to be a _Frenchman_, and at what an + _Englishman_, 455. + ---- His Father's Death, 321. + + _Auverquerque, Maurice_, Count _de_, 412, 413. + + AUXERRE, _t._ 183. + + _Ayrolles_, M. _de_, 405. + + + B + + _Bacharach_, Wine, 352. + + _Baden_, Princess, marry'd to the Duke of _Orleans_, 206. + Treaty there, 255. + How Prince _Lewis_ was surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256. + + _Bagnolet_ Village, 206. + + _Baker_ castrated by his jealous Wife, 183. + + _Balbi, James_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, 146. + + _Balls_ at the _Haymarket_, magnificent, 465. + + _Banchieri_, Cardinal, 16, 18, 44, 54, 112. + + _Bank Bills_, French, 245 to 248. + + ---- Of _Amsterdam_, 380. + + _Barberini_ Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, 7. + + ---- Cardinal, 15, 78, 96. + + ---- Palace, 40, 64. + + _Barcelona_ reduc'd, 257. + + _Bareith_, Prince of, 404. + + _Baron_, a _French_ Comedian and Coxcomb, 200. + + _Barre, John_, his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._ + + _Barricades_ of _Paris_ erected, 283. + + _Bavaria_, Elector of, 214, 303. + + _Beaufort_, Count _de_, 323. + + _Beaujolois_, Mademoiselle _de_, 208. + + _Becker_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 363. + + _Belisarius_'s Statue, 48. + + _Belle-Isle_, Count _de_, 210, 217, 227. + + _Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 26. His Credulity abus'd by the Cardinals, + particularly _Coscia_; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to + 30. + A Reflection on his Ministers, 114. + + _Benefices_, Instances of Pluralities, 337, 342. + + _Benefit-Nights_ at the Theatre, 468. + + BENSBERG, _t._ 357. + + _Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, 4, 13, 14, 85. + His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about _Parma_, 120. + Death and Successor, 130. + + ---- Marquis, 14. + + _Berg_, Country, 361. + + _Bernini Lorenzo_, Architect, 6, 8. + + ---- The Sculptor, 9, 34, 48, 101. + + _Berry_, Duke of, 206. + + _Berwic, James_, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to + 259. + His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of _France_, + 258, 259. + His Death and Successor, 259. + His great Aversion to the _English_, and Ingratitude to the King of + _Spain_, 258, 259. + + _Beverwert_, M. _de_, 401. + + _Bichi_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118. + + BINGEN, _t._ 352. + + _Binger-Loch_, a Cascade upon the _Rhine_, 351. + + _Bissi_, Cardinal, 14. + + _Blanc_, M. _le_, Secretary, 210, 227, 238. + + _Blaspiel_, Baron and Baroness _de_, 363, 364. + + _Bleickert_ Wine, 348. + + _Blood Divine_, suck'd by the Pope, 21. + + _Bodies Human_, a Thought concerning them, 272. + + _Boerhaave_, Professor, 397. + + _Boetselaars_, 412. + + _Bois_, Cardinal _de_, 230, 291, 292. + Story of his Marriage, 293. + His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, 294, 295. + His Tomb, and Remark upon it, 295. + + BOLOGNA, _t._ 129, _&c._ + + _Bolognetti_, Cardinal, 37. + + ---- Countess, 69. + + _Boniface_ VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, 86. + + BONN, _t._ 337. + + _Bonnet_, (_St._) an Officer, 338. + + _Bookselling Trade_, the Centre of it, 386. + + _Bookbinder_ and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to 273. + + _Bork_, M. _de_, 363. + + _Borghese_, Prince, his Palace, 46, 48, 49. + His Family the Favourites of St. _Peter_, 47. + + _Borghese, Scipio_, Cardinal, 47, 48, 49. + + _Borgia_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _---- Casar_, Duke _de Valentinois_, his Contrivance to poison a + Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, 97, 98. + + _Borgo_, Marquis _del_, 157, 161. + + _Bossu_, Cardinal _de_, 318. + + _Bot_, General, 362. + + _Boufflers_, Marshal, 253, 315. + + _Bougir_'s House at _Aix la Chapelle_, 331. + + _Bourbon_, Duke of, 182, 186, 207, 290, 291. + How he lost an Eye, 208. + Made Superintendant of the King's Education, and Prime Minister, 209, + 210, 221. + Displac'd, 211, 226, 230. + His Marriage, 212. + + ---- Duchess of, 216, 217. + + _Brandenburg Anspach_, Margrave, 446. + + _Breteuil_, M. 210, 238, 293. + + _Brignole_, Messieurs, of _Genoa_, 147. + + BRILLE, _t._ 427. + + _Brioche, Swiss_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385. + + _Brosse_, M. _de_, 405. + + _Brouffel_ arrested by _Anne_ of _Austria_, 283. + + BRUGES, _t._ 312. + + _Bruhl_, Seat of the Elector of _Cologne_, 340. + + _Brunette_, Fort _de la_, 169. + + _Brunswic_, Duchess of, 218. + + _---- Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric_, Duke, 361. + + BRUSSELS, _t._ 298. + Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, 308, 317. + + _Brutus_'s Tragedy by _Voltaire_, 265, 266, 467. + + _Bucentaur_ of _Venice_, the Oath taken by her Captain, 315. + + _Buckingham_ House, 437. + + ---- Duchess Dowager, _ib._ + + _Bullen, Anne_, Queen, 438. + + _Buonarota, Mich. Angelo_, 6, 24. + + _Buoncompagno_, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy + Sepulchre, 29. + His Funeral, 107. + + _Burgomasters, Dutch_, 376. + + _Burgundians_, their Character, 182. + + _Burgundy_, Wine, counterfeited, 348. + + _Burgundy_, Duke, his Honour vindicated, 154. + How much he is still venerated in _France_, 204. + + _Bussy, Rabutin_'s Letters, 182, 443. + + + C + + _Cadiere_, Mademoiselle _la_, her Affair with _Girard_ her Father + Confessor, 193. + Her Recantation of the Charge against him, 194. + + _Cadogan_, Earl and Countess, 409. + + _Calf_, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, 390. + + CAMBRAY, _t._ 291. + Congress, 295, 296. + + _Campagna di Roma_, infested by Locusts, 41. + + _Campo Vaccino_, Square, at _Rome_, 34. + + _Canals_, _Canards_, and _Canaille_ 428. + + _Canons_, where they have the Title of Counts, 180. + + _Capitol_, of _Rome_, 33. + + _Caponi_, Marquis _de_, 346. + + _Carache, Annibal_, Painter, 39, 359. + + _Caraffa, John Peter_, Cardinal, 126. + + _Cardinals in Petto_, what, 82. + The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, 83. + Their Manner of going Abroad, 83, 84. + Their Dress, and a Vindication of 'em from Luxury, 84. + The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown'd Heads, 85. + Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, 86. + Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, _ib._ + How they came to the Title of Eminency, _ib._ + Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign'd it, 87. + Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, 90, 93. + Why they always take their own Liquor with them, 97. + + _Carignan_, Prince of, 201. + + _Carlos_, Don, his Journey to _Tuscany_, 139, 233, 318. + A Prophecy of _Nostradamus_ apply'd to him, 139. + + _Carnival_, at _Rome_, 64. + + _Caroline_, Princess, 448. + + _Carolis_, Cardinal, 37. + + _Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee in _Holland_, 429. + + _Carpinetti_, Duke, 42. + + _Casimir, John_ of _Poland_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + King, 336. + + _Cassius, Florus_, 340. + + _Castor_ and _Pollux_, represented by two great Horses, 33. + + _Catharine_, Queen, Wife to _Hen._ VIII. 438. + Wife to _Char._ II. threatened by a Lady never to be visited again, + till she could be seen for 6 _d._ 444. + + _Catinat_, Marshal de, 252. + + _Cellamare_, Prince of, 180, 222. + + _Cenis_, Mountain, 168, 169, 170. + + _Cevennois_ Rebellion suppressed, how, 253. + + CHALONS, upon the _Saone_, t. 180. + + _Chamber_ of Justice in _France_, 249. + + CHAMBERRY, _t._ 171. + + _Chantilly_, Seat, 290. + + _Chaplains, English_, 469. + + _Charlemagne_, Emperor, 325, 330. + + _Charles Emanuel_ II. of _Savoy_, his finishing a Road on the _Alpes_, + which the _Romans_ began, 171. + + _Charles_ V. Emperor, 311, 400. + His Declaration about the _Dutch_, 428. + + ---- VI. Emperor. 328. + His Addresses to the Princess (the late Queen of _Great Britain_) + 446. + + _Charles_ I. King of _England_, the Window from which he walk'd to the + Scaffold, 435. + His Statue. 438. + + ---- II. King of _England_, his Statue, 434. + His Menace of the City of _London_, 431. + His Design to improve St. _James_'s Park, 436. + + ---- King of _Sardinia_, his dutiful Conduct towards his Father, at and + after his Abdication, 155. + His Queen, 165. + + _Charni_, Marquis _de_, General, 137. + + _Charolois_, Count _de_, 212 to 217. + + ---- Madem. _de_, 217, 218. + + _Charost_, Duke _de_, 226, 227. + + _Chartres_, Duke _de_, 206, 209, 268. + + ---- Madem. _de_, 207. + + _Chatelain_, M. _de_, 383. + + _Chauvelin_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, (just remov'd) 236. + + _Chelles_, Abbess of, 207. + + _Chesterfield_, Earl of, 403. + + _Children_, 365 + born at once, 425. + + _Chimay_, Prince _de_, 318. + + _Chocolate-house_, in St. _James_'s _street_, 463. + + CHOISY, _t._ 188, 189. + + _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, 11, 25. + A cruel Action of hers, 184. + + _Church_, built by a Lottery, 201. + + _Churchill, Arabella_, 257. + + _Cibo_, Cardinal, 143. + _Alaric_, ibid. + + _Cicero_'s, in _Italy_, what, 261. + + _Cicisbei_, the Name of those who gallant the _Genoese_ Ladies, 148. + + _Cienfuegos_, Cardinal, 15, 16, 17, 45, 78, 85. + His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor in the Affair of _Parma_, 120. + The Theft he committed in _Westminster_ Abbey, 440. + + _Claude_, of _Lorain_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Clement Augustus_, Elector of _Cologne_, 332, 336, 342. + His Revenue, 337. + His Brothers, 341. + His Aggrandisement asserted to be for the Interest of Popery, 342, + 343. + + _Clement_ XI. (Pope) his Design against Cardinal _Alberoni_, 88. + + ---- XII. Pope, 6. + His Election, 13. + Adoration of the Cardinals to him, 17, 18. + His Coronation, 19. + Our Author's Audience, 55. + His Promotion of Cardinals, 77, 78, 115. + His great Age and Ailments, 88. + His Severity, 91, 167. + General Character, 114. + Concern for losing the Duchy of _Parma_, 114. + + ---- _James_, the Assassin, 269. + + _Clermont_, Count _de_, 212, 216. + Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218. + + CLEVES, _t._ 363. + + _Cloud_, _St._ Duke of, 192. + Palace of, 268. + + _Clovis_, King of _France_, 269. + + COBLENTZ, _t._ 349. + + _Coffee-Houses_, much frequented by the _English_, 463. + + _Cologne_, Elector of, 213. + City, 332, 336. + + _Colonna_, Cardinal, 15, 42. + + ---- Signior, a Prelate, 122. + + ---- Constable, and Family, 42, 82. + + _Comedies_, _French_ and _Dutch_, 385. + + _Comptroller_ General's Office in _France_, compar'd to the Post of the + _Grand Vizier_, 239. + + _Conclave_, for the Choice of a Pope, 13, 70. + + _Concord_, Temple of, at _Rome_, 35. + + _Conde_, Family, 182, 208. + _Hon. Julius_ of _Bourbon_, Prin. 218, _Louisa Benedictina_, Princ. + 220. + + _Consistories_ of _Rome_, 81. + + _Constantine_, Arch. at _Rome_, 34. + + _Conti_, Cardinal, 91. + + ---- Family of, 218. + + ---- Princess Dowager of, 188, 217-220. + + ---- _Lewis_ of _Bourbon_, Prince, his Marriage, 208, 217. + + ---- Mademoiselle, 209. + + _Cornetto, Adrian_, Cardinal, a Design to poison him, 97. + + _Cornicchini, Augustin_, the Statuary, 9. + + _Coronation_ Chair, of the _English_ Sovereigns, 441. + + _Corpus Christi_, Ceremonies on that Day at _Rome_, 124. + and at _St. Sulpice_, 202. + + _Correggio_, Painter, 359. + + _Corsica_, Island, more Cost than Worship to the _Genoese_, 150. + + _Corsicans_, call'd the Devils of _Italy_, 143. + Their War with the _Genoese_, 149, _&c._ + + _Corsini_, Cardinal, 6. + His Election to be Pope, 13. + His Nephew, _Neri Corsini_, a Cardinal, 19, 78, 119. + _Bartholomew_, another, 52, 92. + _Philip_, his great Nephew, 44. + Character of his Nephews, 119. + Mesdames, the Popes Nieces, 69, 103, 104. + His Antipathy to Cardinal _Bichi_, 117. + + _Cortona, Peter_, Painter, 40, 359. + + _Coscia_, Cardinal, his Abuse of the Pope's Credulity, 27, 28. + His Bargain with _Ruspoli_'s Father, to get his Son a Cardinal's Hat, + 77. + Another of his Bargains of that sort, 83. + His Treatment by the Popes, 89, 90, 91. + His Imprisonment, 91. + + _Cosmo_, I. II. III. Great Dukes of _Tuscany_, 135. + Statue of the First, 140. + + _Costa_, Auditor General of _Corsica_, 150. + + _Coster, Laurence_, of _Harlem_, 395. + + _Courland_, Dukes Kettlers, 135, 136. + + COURTRAY, _t._ 313. + + _Craggs_, Secretary, his Monument, 440. + + _Crescens_, St., Disciple of St. _Paul_, 353. + + _Crumpiper, Henry_, 302. + + _Culmbache, Brandenburgh_, Princess of, 307, 404. + + _Cumberland_, (Prince _William_) D. of, 447. + + _Cumiane_, Mademoiselle _de_, 156. + + _Curtius_'s Statue, 48. + + _Cyr, St._ Abbey of, 261. + + + D + + _Daguesseau_, M. Chancellor, 235, 236. + + _Dalberg_, Baron _de_, 354. + + _Damasus_ II. Pope, 22. + + _Dammartin_, Count _de_, 213. + + _Dangeau_, M. _de_, 216. + + _Daphne_'s Metamorphosis, 48. + + _Davia_, Cardinal, 14. + + _David_ with his Sling, a Statue, 48. + + _Daun_, Marshal, 152, 304. + + _Dauphin_, of _France_, whence that Title, 173. + + _Dauphine_, 172, 173. + + DELFT, _t._ 400, 425. + + _Denain_, Battle, 251, 404. + + _Denys_, Saint, 192. + + _Devenish_, M. _de_, 314. + + _Devils_ of _Italy_, who, 143. + + _Devos_'s Tapistry, 308. + + _Dickson_, Colonel, 314. + + DIJON, _t._ 181. + + _Dirce_, her Fable, 38. + + _Dobelstein_, Baron _de_, 331. + + _Dohna_, _Alexander de_, Count, 349. + + ---- _Ferassier de_, Count, 404. + + _Dombes_, Prince of, 221, 224. + + ---- Principality, 179, 180, 220. + + _Doria_, Cardinal, 55, 91, 116. + + ---- General, 147. + + _Ducks_, in abundance, 418. + + DUISBOURG, _t._ 362. + + _Dulis_, a _Jew_, 411. + + _Dunbar_, Lord, his Station at the Pretender's Court, 58. + His Marriage of Princess _Sobleski_ by Proxy, 62. + + _Duncan_, M. _de_, 407. + + _Dunchstein_, Mineral Water, 349. + + DUSSELDORF, _t_ 358. + + _Dutch_, vindicated from Treachery, 368, 428. + Their common Food, 372. + Their Coffee-houses, and Comedies, 385. + Assemblies, 386. + Dress, 390. + Lasses, 393. + + _Dyck, Van_, Painter, 359. + + + E + + ECHELLES, _t._ 171. + + _Edward_ I. King of _England_, the Trophy he brought from _Scotland_, + of his Conquest, 441. + + _Egmont_, Count, the Prince of _Orange_'s Farewell of him, 453. + + ---- Palace in _Brussels_, 299. + + _Elbeue, de_, Commandeur, the _Tuscan_ Minister, 131, 134. + + _Eleanor_, of _Toledo_, Gr. Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + ---- of _Provence_, Wife to K. _Hen._ III. 435. + + _Eminency_, how that Title came to the Cardinals, 86. + + _Emperors, German_, their Manner of giving Audience, 215. + + ENCKHUISEN, _t._ 392. + + _England_'s Kings, their Power and Court, 442, 443, 444. + Its Soil and Climate, 470, 471. + + _Englishmen_, said to be better Abroad than at Home, 326. + Their Manners, 453, _&c._ 463. + The Dress of the Courtier and the Citizen, 436, 437, 460. + Genius of the Nation, 442, 462. + Vindicated from Disaffection to their Kings, 442. + Applauded for defending their Rights, 443. + Their friendly, tho' melancholy Tempers, and their Aversion to + Constraint, 454, 455. + Their Diversions, 467, 469, 470. + Their Manners compared with the French 455. + Vindicated from Cruelty, 457, 458. + Their too great Freedom with Life, 459. + Their Womens Beauty, 460, 461. + Their Behaviour in Public, 461. + Why the _English_ are supposed to be descended from _Mutius Scavola_, + 470. + An Influence of their Good-nature and Happiness, _ibid._ + Blam'd for preferring other Countries to their own, 471. + Their different Living in the Country from the City, 470. + + _Epernon_, Duke _de_, 226. + + _Epitaph_ upon Epitaphs, 414. + + _Erasmus_'s Statue, 426. + + _Essex_, Earl of, his Head expos'd, 432. + + _Estrades_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 401. + + _Estrees_, Marshal _de_, _Victor Maria_, his Conduct, Character, + Dignities, Family, Estate, and his fine Diamonds, 260. + + ---- _Gabriella de_, Mistress to _Henry_ IV. of _France_, 260. + + _Eu_, Count _de_, 221, 225. + + _Eugene_, of _Savoy_, Prince, 143, 259. + + _St. Evremont_, M. his Monument, 440. + + _Eysenach, Saxe_, Princess of, 446. + + + F + + _Fagel, Gressier_, 406. + + _Farnese, Francis_, Duke of _Parma_, 114. + + _Farnese_, Palace, at _Rome_, 37. + + _Faustina, Signora_, 66. + + _Faustus, John_ of _Mentz_, 395. + + _Fest_, Ceremony of washing them on _Holy Thursday_, 98. + + _Feldtbruck_, Mademoiselle _de_, the severe Test she requir'd of her + Lover's Affection, 320. + + _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_, 291, 403. + + ---- Brigadier and Ambassador, 403. + + _Ferdinand de Medicis_, Duke of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Ferrayo_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118. + + _Ferrero_, Cardinal, 167. + + _Filippucci_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _Fine Gentleman_, his Character, 462. + + _Fiochi_, of the Cardinals, what it means, 83. + + _Fireworks of Germany_, expensive, 187. + + _Flax_, why burnt at the Pope's Coronation, 20. + + _Flemings_, unsociable, 312. + + _Flemish Woman_, good Topers, _ibid._ + + _Fleury_, Cardinal _de_, made Prime Minister, 211. + His Character, 228 to 235, 283. + + FLORENCE, _t._ 130, _&c._ + + _Florentin_, Count _de St._ 237, 238. + + _Flowers_, beautiful, where, 395. + + FONTAINEBLEAU, Palace and Town, 184, 188. + + _Fontana_, the Architect, 8, 9. + + _Force_, Duke _de la_, 243. + + _France_, whether 'twas her Interest to enter into the last War, 232 to + 235. + + _Francis_, I. King of _France_, 184. + + _Francis de Medicis_, Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Frangipani_, Marquis, 52. + + _Frederic_, King of _Bohemia_, 366. + + ---- Elector of _Brandenburg_, 338, 362, 446. + + ---- _Augustus_, King of _Poland_, 360, 361. + + _Frederic_, King of _Prussia_, 361, 362, 367, 399. + + _Frejus_, Bishop of, 228, 229, 230. + + _French_, how they accounted for the Loss of so many Battles in the + last War, 153. + Not so modest as the Allies, 295. + Their Levity, 196, 197, 279. + Their good Qualities, 197, 275, 276. + Their Fashions, by whom to be followed, and by whom avoided, 460, + 461. + + _Frene_, M. _du_, a famous French Comedian, 266. + + FRIBOURG, _t._ 254. + + _Fridlingen_ Battle, 252. + + _Frouley_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 202. + + _Fugger_, Countess _de_, 348. + + _Furius Camillus_, the Dictator, his Vow, 35. + + _Furstenberg_, Princess, 307. + + + G + + _Galen, Bernard de_, Bishop, the Terror of the _Dutch_, 343. + + _Galloway_, Lord, 440. + + _Gamarre_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador's Dispute with M. _de Thon_, a + _French_ Ambassador, about Precedency, 400. + + _Gamesters_, order'd to the Gallies, 30. + + _Gaming_, prohibited by the Pope, 70. + + ---- One of the Plagues of the _French_ Nation, 198. + What their Ladies call a Man who does not play, and what the Men say + of Gaming in general, 199, 200. + How Gamesters are caress'd at many Womens Houses, and the great + Emoluments of Gaming, 201. + Who have a Grant for licensing it, _ibid._ + + _Gardening_, in _Italy_, declin'd, 33, 47. + + _Gasse_, Count _de_, 212. + + _Gaston, John_. See _Tuscany_'s Great Duke. + + _Gaydon_, Major, in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62. + + _Gendre, Peter le_, 175. + + GENOA, _t._ 144. + Its Neighbourhood, 151. + Its Bombardment by the _French_, 144. + Character of the _Genoese_, 148. + Their War with the _Corsicans_, 149. + + _Gentili_, Cardinal, 116. + + _Gentlemen_, whether that Title be more due to Stage-Players, than to + Rope-Dancers or Tumblers, 268. + + _George_ I. King 436. + His Statue, 438. + Compar'd to _Augustus_, 442. + + _George_ II. King, 434, 445. + His Queen, 445, 446, 447. + Their Manner of Dining in Public, 449. + Drawing-Room, 456. + + _Gerard, Balthasar_, the Assassin, 425. + + _Gergy_, Parson of _St. Sulpice_, 202. + + ---- His Brother, Bishop of _Soissons_, ibid. + + ---- Another, Ambassador at _Venice_, ibid. + + _Germain_, (_St._) Abbat and Friers, ibid. + + _German_ Princes, wiser than the _Italian_, 128. + + _Germany_, the Strength of the Protestants and Papists there, 343. + + _Gevres_, Duke, 201. + + GHENT, _t._ 310, 317. + + _Giafferi_, Leader of the _Corsican_ Rebels, 150. + + _Girard_, Father, his Affair with a Lady at Confession, 193, _&c._ + + _Giudici_, Cardinal, 37, 90. + + _Gladiators_, Statue, 49. + + _Golofskin_, Count _de_, 404. + + _Golstein_, Countess _de_, 331. + + _Gondrin_, Marquis _de_, 226. + + _Gondulphus_, Bishop, his Ghost, 329. + + _Gondy_, Francis _de_, Archbishop of _Paris_, 192. + + _Gonzague_, Cardinals, their Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _Goudenau_, Marshal _de_, 346. + + _Grafton_, Duke, 449. + + _Grammont_, Duke _de_, 199. + + _Grana_, Marquis _de_, 297. + + _Grantham_, Earl of, 449. + + _s'Gravesande_, Professor, 397. + + Great Duke of _Tuscany_, by whom the Title was invented, 135. + + _Greenwich_ Hospital, 432. + + _St. Gregory the Great_, Pope, 31. + + _Gregory_ XIII. Pope, 32. + + _Gregory_ XV. Pope, 192. + + GRENOBLE, _t._ 173. + + _Greys_, M. 405. + + _Grilli_ (Locusts) apply'd to a Family of that Name, 41. + + _Grimani_, Cardinal Legate, 129, 130. + + _Grosvenor_'s Square, 438. + + _Guadagno_, Cardinal, 115. + + _Guiccardi_, Count, 149. + + _Guido_, Painter, 359. + + + H + + _Hackney_, the Ceremony of presenting it to the See of _Rome_ for + _Naples_, 42 to 46. + + HAGUE, Village, 398, _&c._ + + HALLE, _t._ 298. + + _Handel_, the Composer, 466. + + _Handkerchief_ of our Saviour, a Relique to be seen in three Places, + 154. + + _Hanover Family_, the Temper with which they received the News of their + Accession to the _British_ Throne, 446. + + _Hapsbourg_, Count, 328. + + _Harlai_, President, his Repartee to the _French_ Comedians, 267. + + HARLEM, _t._ 394. + + _Harrach, Frederic_, Count _de_, 303. + + _Harrington_, Lord, 453. + + HARWICH, _t._ 430. + + _Hass_, M. the _Saxon_, 66. + + _Hats_, Cardinals, why red, 86. + + _Hatto_, Bishop, pursued and gnawed by Rats, 352. + + _Hawitz_, Grand Marshal, 149. + + _Haxhausen_, General, 332. + + _Hayes_, Mr. and Mrs. styl'd Lord and Lady _Inverness_, 58, 59. + + _Hazard_, Play, prohibited by the Pope, 70. + + _Heidelberg_ Library, 25. + + HELVOETSLUYS, _t._ 417 to 429. + + _Henneberg_, Countess of. See _Holland_. + + _Henry_ III. King of _France_, his Assassination, 269. + Ill Omens observ'd at his Consecration, _ibid._ + + ---- King of _England_, his Wife, 435. + + ---- VIIth's Chapel, 440. + + _Henry_ of _Portugal_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _St. Henry_ of _Bavaria_, Emperor, 331. + + _Herenhausen_ Water-Works, 269. + + _Hermaphrodite_ Statue, 49. + + _Herod_, whither banish'd, 173. + + _Hesse Rhinfels_, Princess of, (late) Queen of _Sardinia_, 165, 212. + + ---- _Eleonora_, Duchess of _Bourbon_, her Marriage, 212. + + _Hesse Cassel_, Prince _Williams_, 320. + Landgrave, 351. + + ---- _Charles_, Landgrave, 361. + + _Highwayman_'s remarkable Escape, 457. + + _Hildebold_, Archbishop of _Cologn_, 327. + + _Hochstet_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153. + + _Hogendorp_, M. 413. + + _Hohen-Zollern_, Count de, 344. + + _Holland, Florence_ IV. Count of, 425. + + _Holland_, Countess of, his Daughter, deliver'd of three hundred + sixty-five Children at a Birth, 425. + + _Holy Ghost_, Picture of a Cardinal taking Aim at him with a Fusee, 17. + + _Holy Week_, how observed at _Rome_, 96. + + _Hompesch_, General, 399. + + _Honslaerdyck_, Palace, 425. + + _Hoornbeck_, Pensionary, 406. + + HORNE, _t._ 392. + + _Horses_, Dogs, and Falcons, where they abound most, 468. + + _House_, in the Wood, 425. + + _Howard_, Family of, 438. + + + I + + _Jacob_'s Pillow, 440. + + _Jagellon_, K. of _Poland_, 336. + + _St. James_'s Palace and Park, 435, 436. + Square, 438. + Church, 439. + + _James_ II. King, censur'd for neglecting a very precious Relique, 440. + + _Jew, Dutch_, his Zeal for the Opera, in Opposition to an Anabaptist, + who was as hot for Comedy, 410, 411. + + _Jews_, at _Amsterdam_, 388, 411. + + _Imperiali_, Cardinal, 13, 14, 93. + _NB._ He dy'd in _January_ 1736-7. + + _India_, Company, _Dutch_, 388. + + _Infanta_ of _Spain_, sent back from _France_, 210, 211. + + _Ingelheim_, Baron _de_, 354. + + _Innocent_ IV. Pope, his Order about Cardinals Hats, 86. + + _Innocent_ X. Pope, 90, 93. + + _Inquisition_, at _Rome_, not so bad as represented, 125. + Congregation of the Holy Office, 126. + + _Invalids_, Hospital, at _Paris_, 198. + + _Inverness_, Lord and Lady, 58, 59. + + _Joan_, of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Joannino_, the Duke of _Tuscany_'s _Favourite_, 132, 133. + + _Johannesburg_ Wine, 352. + + JOHN ST. DE MAURIENNE, _t._ 170. + + _John-William_, Elector Palatine, 358, 359. + + _John_ II. King of _France_, why compar'd to _Regulus_, 435. + + _John_ III. King of _Portugal_, 87. + + _Joseph Clement_, Elector of _Cologne_, 345. + + _Isis_, Goddess, and her Temple, 190. + + _Italians_, their revengeful Temper, 14. + Jealousy and Niggardliness, 73, 74. + Their Disposition towards the _French_ and _Germans_, 16. + Their Behaviour at Executions, 110, 111, 112. + Their Hatred to one another, 127. + The Formality of settling the Interviews of their petty Princes, 128. + Why they are the Jest of Foreigners, _ibid._ + Who the most polite, 139. + + _Italians_, of the _Netherlands_, who, 324. + + _Italy_, Devils of, who so called, 143. + + _Judgement_, Day of, a remarkable Painting, 24. + + JULIERS, _t._ 332, 361. + + + K + + KEISERSWAERT, _t._ 347, 361. + + _Keppel_, M. _de_, 407, 408. + + _Kettlers_ Family, Dukes of _Courland_, 135. + Their Parallel with the _Medicis_ of _Tuscany_, 136. + + _Keys_ of _St. Peter_, what they denote, 23. + + _Kings_ of _Cologne_, 333. + + _Kroon, Theodore_, Van der, 369. + + + L + + _Lacqueys_, at _Paris_, the Favourites of their Ladies and young + Masters, 275. + A Conversation between those of two Cardinals, about their + Pre-eminence, 294. + + _Lalaing_, Count _de_, 312. + + _Lalock, Nassau_, Count _de_, 314, 315, 412, 413. + + LANDAU, _t._ 254. + + LANEBOURG, _t._ 170. + + _Lansquenet_, The _French_ King's Party at that Game, 199. + + _Lateran_ Church, the Ceremony of the Pope's taking Possession of it, + 49. + + _Lauzun_, M. _de_, 179. + + _Law, John_, the Projector, 210, 239. + King of _Sardinia_'s Advice to him, 239. + His Death, and his Widow and Son, 240. + A Copy of Verses on him, 241. + His Coat of Arms, 243. + The Homage paid to him in his Prosperity, 244. + Description of his Person, and Remarks on his System, 245, _&c._ to + 250, 380. + + LEGHORN, _t._ the grand Appearance there on the Arrival of the + _Spanish_ Fleet, in which they expected Don _Carlos_, 139. + Description of the City, _&c._ 140, _&c._ + + _Leie_, Count _de la_, 350. + + _Lenoirs_ Tapistry Manufacture, 308. + + _Leo_ III. Pope, his Present to _Charlemain_, 99. + + _Leopold_, Archduke, 342. + + _Lepanto_, Victory, 43. + + LERICI, _t._ 143. + + _Lewis d'Ors_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants, 218. + + _Lewis_, the Pious, 327. + + ---- Duke of _Burgundy_, 363. + + _Lewis_ XIV. his Statue, _&c._ at _Lyons_, 178. + At _Dijon_, 181. + His Debt, 246. + His Offer to _Charles_ II. of Stones for Gravel, 437. + + ---- XVth's Marriage, 185-211. + His Character, 203, 204. + His Queen and Children, 204, 205. + + _Lewis_, Pr. of _Baden_, how surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256. + + LEYDEN, _t._ 396. + + ---- University, 397. + + _St. Liberius_ I. Pope, 13. + + _Lichtenstein_, Princess _de_, 303. + + LIEGE, _t._ 321 to 324. + + LIMBURG, _t._ 326. + + LINTZ, _t._ 348. + + _Lippe_, Count _de la_, 344. + + _Liria_, Duke of, 257, 259. + + LISLE, _t._ 296, 315, 316. + + _Livery_, Servants at _Rome_, their poor Wages, 105. + The Practice of Jubileeing them, what, 106. + Some kept only for Sundays and Holidays, _ibid._ + + _Lobkowitz_, Princess, 307. + + _Locusts_, in _Italy_, curs'd by the Pope and banish'd to the Sea, 41. + + LONDON, _t._ 430. + to the End. King _Charles_ IId's Menace against this City ridicul'd + by one of the Aldermen, 431. + Its Increase since the Accession of the Present Royal Family to the + Crown, 439. + + ---- Prov'd to be more populous than _Paris_, 190, 191. + It's Bridge, 432. + Cathedral, _ibid._ + Monument, Burse, and Tower, 434. + Streets not well pav'd, 437, 438. + Its Diversions, 462, _&c._ + Assemblies, 465. + Dances and Plays, 464 to 467. + + + M + + MACON, _t._ 180. + + MAESTRICHT, _t._ 319, 329 + + _Mailly_, Cardinal, 229. + + _Maine_, Duke of, 179, 180, 181, 220, _&c._ + Duchess, her Imprisonment, 180, 222, 223. + His Degradation, 209, 222. + + ---- Mademoiselle _de_, 225. + + _Maintenon_, Madame _de_, 261. + _Lewis_ XIVth's Reprimand of her for leaving him in his last + Sickness, 262. + Her Retirement, Death, Tomb and Epitaph, 162, 263, _&c._ + Her Family and Pension to the last, 264. + + ---- Who is the present Marquis, _ibid._ + + _Malines_, Lady of, 314. + + _Malplaquet_, Battle, 253. + + _Malta_, Grand Master's Title, 86. + His Ambassador's Reception by the Pope, 121. + + _Malusius_, 340. + + _Maratti, Charles_, a Designer, 32. + + _Marble_, rich Quarries of it, 143. + + _Mark William, de Lumay_, Count _de la_, 427. + + _Marcus Aurelius Antonius_, his Equestrian Statue, for which the + _Venetians_ offer'd as many Sequins as could be put into the + Horse's Belly, 33. + + _Marez_, a noted old Actress of _Lyons_, 177, 178. + + _Margaretta Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _Mari_, (_Spanish_) Admiral, 137, 148. + + MARIENBOURG, _t._ 336. + + MARIENSTEAL, _t._ _ibid._ + + _Marlborough_'s Duke, and Palace, 437. + + MARPURG, t. 336. + + _Marquis de L----_, his Fortune made by an old Lady, 285. + + _Marr_, Lady, her meeting Princess _Sobleski_, 63. + + _Mary Magdalen_ of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135. + + _St. Mary Majors_ Church at _Rome_, 12. + + _Mary de la Rovero_, Duchess of _Urbino_, 135. + + _Mary de Medicis_, Regent of _France_, 145. + + _Masch_, M. _de_, 404 + + MASSA DI CARRARA, _t._ 142. + + _Maternus_, Bishop, 323. + + _Mathurias_, Order of, 184. + + _Matilda_, Countess, 11. + + _Maurepas_, Count _de_, 237. + + _Maurice_, Prince, 314, 399. + + _Maurice_, M. _de St._ Prime Minister, 213. + + _Maurice_, Cardinal of _Savoy_, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _Maximilian_ II. Emperor, his Answer to _Cosmo_ of _Tuscany_, when he + wanted the Title of King, 135. + + _Mazarine_, Cardinal, 335. + + _Mazarine_, Duchess _de_, 238, 409, 410. + + MECHLIN, _t._ 317, 318. + + _Medicis_, Family of, 135. + Their Parallel with the Family _Kettlers_, of _Courland_, 136. + + _Medicis_, _Ferdinand de_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + ---- _Bernard de_, 136. + + ---- _Juvence de_, ibid. + + ---- _Octaviano de_, ibid. + + ---- _Mary de_, Queen, 334. + + ---- _Mary-Anne_, Electress _Palatine_, 359, 361. + + MELUN, _t._ 240. + + MENIN, _t._ 314. + + _Mentz, Francis Lewis_, Elector of, 336, 342, 353. + + ---- _Philip Charles_, Elector, 353. + + MENTZ, _t._ ibid. + + ---- _Francis, Lotharius_, Elector, _ibid._ + + _Merchants_, Difference betwixt the _English_ and Foreigners, 471. + + _Mercy_, Count _de_, 255. + + _Metternich_, Count _de_, 350. + + _Michael Angelo_, 33, 37. + + _Mignard_, the Painter, 269. + + _Milan_, conquer'd, 256. + + _Milciades_, an _Italian_ Game at Cards, 70. + + _Mirandola, Picus de_, Cardinal, 53. + + _Misset_, M. 61, 62. + + _Missisippi_ Scheme, and its Projector, Verses thereupon, 241, _&c._ + Its Fate compar'd to that of the _South-Sea_ Scheme, 244. + A curious Account of it, 246 to 250. + + _Misson_, Mr. his Account of the Pope's Coronation reflected on, 22. + His being always furnish'd with Mathematical Instruments, 141. + + _Mistresses_, Generosity of the _English_ to theirs, 469. + + ---- Kept in Partnership, _ib._ + + _Modena_, Princes of, 148. + + _Molland_, Palace, 363. + + _Mondragone_ Seat, near _Rome_, 48. + + _Money_, the Scarcity of it in _France_, 217. + Worship paid to it at _Amsterdam_, 381, 382. + + MONS, _t._ 297. + + _Montague_ House, 439. + + _Montcallier_ Castle, 152. + + _Monte Cavallo_ Palace, 32. + + _Montespan_, Marchioness, 188, 205, 216, 226, 264. + + _Montesquiou_, Marshal, 260. + + _Monti_, Marquis, the Pretender's Landlord. 58. + + _Montijo_, Count _de_, 439. + + _Montpensier_, Mademoiselle _de_, her Fame in the Civil Wars of + _France_, 179. + Her Restraint from marrying, _ibid._ + + _Montrevel_, Marshal _de_, 253. + + _Monulphus_, Bishop of _Tongres_, his Ghost, 329. + + _Morville_, M. _de_, 237. + + _Mouchi_, Madame _de_, 316. + + _Mouths_ of the Cardinals, the Ceremony of Opening and Shutting them by + the Pope, 80. + + _Muley Ismael_ of _Morocco_, his pretended Demand of the Princess of + _Conti_ in Marriage, 219. + + MULHEIM, _t._ 335. + + _Murder_, how punish'd at _Rome_, 74. + + _Mutius Scavola_, a Conceit that the _English_ are descended from him, + 470. + + + N + + NAMUR, _t._ 317, 319. + + _Naples_, the Tribute paid for it to the See of _Rome_, 43 to 46. + + _Nassau_, Princes of, 309. + + ---- _Zeist_, Count _de_, 367. + + ---- _Orange_, Prince of, 412. + + _Navona_, Square, 5. + The Ceremony of watering it, 66. + + _Neautre_, M. _le_, 436. + + _Nectarius_, Patriarch, 195. + + _Nephews_ of the Popes, their general Character, 40. + + _Nesle_, Marquis _de_, 309. + + _Netherlands, Austrian_, Pride and Poverty of the Nobility and Gentry, + 305, 306. + + _Newbourgh, Lewis-Antony de_, 336. + + ---- _Francis_, Elector of _Mentz_, 336, 342. + + _Neuhoff Theodore_, Baron _de_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150. + + _Neville Camillus, Nicolas_ and _Charles_, _de la_, 175. + + NEUWIDT, _t._ and Count _de_, 349. + + _Newcastle_, Duke of, 453. + + _Newmarket_ Races, 468. + + NEWPORT, _t._ 313. + + NIMEGUEN, _t._ 365, 370. + + _Noailles, Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal, 192, 294. + + ---- Duke _de_, 207, 264. + + _Noailles, Maria Victoria de_, 226. + + ---- Duchess _d'Estrees_, 260. + + _Nocera_, a Canon, 92. + + _Nordkirchen_, Seat, 346. + + _Norfolk_, Duke of, 438. + + _Nostradamus_, a Prophecy of his apply'd to _Don Carlos_, 139. + + _Nothast_, Baron _de_, 346, 347. + + NOVALAISE, _la_, _t._ 169. + + _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, prohibited by the Archbishops of _Paris_, + 277. + Differences about it, betwixt the Court and Parliament, 277, 278. + + _Nuncios_, of the Pope, 77. + + + O + + _Obdam_, Count _de_, 412. + + _Odyck_, M. _de_, 367. + + _Oels_, Baron _de_, 350. + + _Olivieri_, Cardinal, 44, 54. + + _Openord, Giles Maria_, Architect, 201. + + _Operas_, in _France_, the Distinction paid to the Actors, 267. + + _Orange_, Palace in _Brussels_, 299, 300. at the Hague, 425. + + ---- Princes of, 309, 401, 401, 412, 413, 425. + + _Orbano_, R. 171. + + _Orleans_, Dukes of, 173, 174, 179, 206, 207, 209, 212, 221, 229, 230, + 236, 268, 269, 283, 292, 293, 295. + + ---- Duchess, 185. + Dowager, 205, 206. + _Henrietta_, Duchess of, her Death, 269. + His Sisters, 207, 208. + _Philippa_, her Death, 208. + _Louisa Diana_, her Marriage and Issue, 208, 217. + + ORLEANS, _t._ taken, 179. + + + P + + _Pagan_ Impertinences, reviv'd in the Christian Religion, 203. + + _Pain_, despis'd by our Nation, 470. + + _Palatine_, Electress Dowager, 130. + _John-William_, Elector, 358, 359, 360. + + _Pallas_, a _French_ Officer, who married both Mother and Daughter, + acquitted by the Inquisition, 116. + + _Palmquist_, Ambassador, 405. + + _Pamphili_, Princes, 6, 41, 42. + Palace, 41. + + ---- _Camillus_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + + _Pantheon_, at _Rome_, 7. + + _Paris_, Abbe, his pretended Miracles, 195, _&c._ 284. + + _Paris_, Brothers, 210, 227, 245. + + PARIS, _t._ 189, _&c._ + Whether most populous, this City, or _London_, 190, 191. + Number of its People, Streets, Houses, 192. + Expence of its Lanthorns, and its Revenues, _ibid._ + Archbishop's Title, _ibid._ + By whom founded, and most beautify'd, 190, 192. + Its Prerogatives, 192. + Governor, 201. + Lacqueys, 274, 275. + Parliaments, 283. + What _Charles_ V. meant when he said, He could put this City into his + Glove, 310. + Parliament House, 441, 442. + + _Parma_, Dukes of, the Office they are to perform for the Pope, 52. + The Pope's Concern for the Loss of the Duchy, 114, 120. + + _Patricians_, of _Germany_, 333, 334. + + _Paul_ III. Pope, 38, 40. + His Order about the Cardinals Caps, 86. + His Establishment of the Inquisition, 126. + + ---- IV. Pope, the Solicitor of it, _ibid._ + + ---- V. Pope, 32, 47, 48. + + _Peasants, English_, their Happiness, 471. + + _Pericon_, M. Magistrate at _Lyons_, 176. + + _Perauss_, Count _de la_, 161, 162, 163. + + _Peter, St. d'Arena_ Suburbs of _Genoa_, 148. + + _Peter, St._ why describ'd as holding three Keys, 23. + His Church and Chair, at _Rome_, 7 to 12. + Who buried in it, 11. + His Miracles, what, 39. + + PETITBOURG, _t._ 188. + + _Petits Colets_, the Petits Maitres of _Rome_, 70, 73. + + _Petronilla_, St. 11. + + _Peyrome_, _la_, Surgeon, 292. + + _Phaethon_'s, Story finely painted, 439. + + _Pharao_, plaid in the Conclave of Cardinals, 70. + + _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, his submissive Speech to _Phillip_ + IV. King of _Spain_, 145. + + _Philips_, Mr. Preceptor to the Duke, 448. + + _Philipsburg_, Siege of, 259. + + _Picus, de Mirandola_, Cardinal, 53. + + _Piedmontese_, their Court and Character, 165, 166, 168. + + PIETRA SANTA, _t._ 142. + + _Pignatelli_, Cardinal, 86. + + _Pilate_, whither banish'd, 173. + + _Pilgrims_, Hospital at _Rome_, 76. + + _Pin, Joseph_, Painter, 359. + + PISA, _t._ 141. + Pride of the People, _ibid._ + + _Pius_ V. Pope, 80, 126. + + _Pizzighitone_, taken, 255. + + _Platen_, Count _de_, Post-master of _Hanover_, 238. + His Daughter's Marriage and Pension from King _George_ I. and II. + 238. + + _Plettenburg_, Count _de_, 341, 344, 345, 346. + + _Polignac_, Cardinal, 85. + + PONT DE BONVOISIN, _t._ 172. + + _Pontchartrain_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 235, 237. + + _Ponthievre_, Duke _de_, 226. + + _Popelsdorf_, Village, 340. + + _Popes_, the Days on which the Cardinals kiss their Feet, 17. + Character of their Nephews, 40. + Reception of Ambassadors, 121. + + _Pope_, who was the first that was crown'd, 22. + Compar'd to the Holy Sepulchre, 29. + + _Portail_, M. _de_, President, 249. + + _Portland_, Earl of, 408. + + _Portugal_, _Henry_, Cardinal of, his Resignation of the Hat, 87. + Its broils with the Court of _Rome_, 116 to 119. + + _Poultier_, M. Intendant at _Lyons_, 176. + + _P----y, William_, 451. + + _Poyntz, Stephen_, Esq, 448. + + _Pragmatic Sanction_, 403. + + _Prebends_, bought and sold, 369. + + _Precedence_, Disputes about it betwixt Ambassadors, 400 to 403. + + _Pretender_, his Pension and Honours from the Pope, 57, 58. + His Landlord, Courtiers, and Domestics, Style, and Stature, and his + Sons, 58, 59. + His Treatment from the Imperial and _French_ Cardinals, 58. + His Aspect and Character, 59. + His Mistress, _ibid._ + His Protestant Chapel, and Table, _ibid._ + His Wife, 60, 61. + Prophecy of his coming to the _British_ Throne, 63. + + _Preys_, M. 405. + + _Prie_, Marchioness, 166, 227, 304. + + _Priests_, _Italian_, a heavy Charge against them, 112. + + ---- _Flemish_, always railing at one another, 314. + + _Printing_, where invented, 395. + + _Procession_ Chair, of the Popes, 17. + + _Prussia_, _Ducal_ or _Brandenburg_, 336. + _Fredric_, K. of, 338. + + _Pucelage_, its Meaning, 284. + + _Pucelle_, a Counsellor, banish'd from the Parliament at _Paris_, 282, + 283. + Verses on his Exile, 284. + + _Pussenburg_, Baron _de_, 296. + + _Puppet-player_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385. + + _Purpora_, the Singer, 66. + + _Pyrrhus_'s Saying, after he had defeated the _Romans_, 253. + + + Q + + _Q----y_, Duke of, his Behaviour on the Duchess's being forbid the + Court, 444. + + QUIERI, _t._ 151. + + _Quinaut_, the famous Comedian, 266. + + + R + + _Rabutyn_, _Bussy_'s, Letters, 181, 443. + + _Raby_, Lord, his Amour, 410. + + _Race_, run round St. _James_'s Park, by a naked Man, 470. + + _Ramillies_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153. + + _Raphael_, Painter, 24, 359. + + _Rastadt_, Treaty, 254. + + _Ratisbon_, _Theodore_, Bishop of, 349. + + _Rats_, Tower in the _Rhine_, 352. + + _Ratto_, Signior, 4. + Bishop of _Cordoua_, 85. + + _Regulas, John_ II. K. of _France_ compar'd to him, 435. + + _Reimbrants_, Painter, 359. + + _Reliques_, at _Aix_, the Time and Manner of exposing them, 329, 330. + + _Remi_, (S.) a noted Better at the _French_ Court, 199, 200. + + _Restitution_, by the Popes, what, 88. + + _Retirement_, Verses in Praise of it, 223. + + _Retz_, Duke of, 174. + + _Rhebinder_, Marshal, 158, 159, 166. + + RHEIMS, _t._ 269. + + RHEN, _t._ 366. + + _Rhenish_ Wine, where the best, 352. + + RHINBECK, _t._ 347. + + _Rhine_, R. 349. + + _Rhinfields_ Castle, 351. + + _Richardi_, Marquis, and his Son Don _Vincenzo_, 134. + + _Richelieu_, Cardinal's Ingratitude to Q. _Mary de Medicis_, 334, 335. + + _Richmond_, Duchess, 409. + + _Ridelsheim_, Wine, 352. + + _Rinuccini_, Marquis, 132, 134, 137. + + _Ripperda_, Duke _de_, 296. + + _Rivoli_ Castle, 158. + + _Robbery_, on the Highway, remarkable, 457. + + _Robert_, (the Pious) K. of _France_, 98. + + _Rochebonne_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176. + + _Roche, Sur-yon_, Mademoiselle _de la_, 218. + + _Rodolph_ I. Emperor, a miraculous Appearance at his Coronation, 327, + 328. + + _Roer_, River, 332. + + _Rohan_, Cardinal, 186. + + ---- Prince, 205. + + _Roll_, Baron _de_, 346. + + _Rolling_, Baron _de_, 354. + + _Romain, Julius_ Painter, 359. + + _Roman_ Princes, their high Pretensions, 102, 104. + + ---- Princesses and Popes Nieces more humble than formerly, 103. + How they are lighted to the Plays, 105. + Their unwieldy Coaches, and scrub Liveries, 106. + Why they never wear Mourning, 108. + + ROME, _t._ Manners of the People, 67, 72, 73, 406. + Its Squares, 2, _&c._ + Churches, 6, _&c._ + Palaces, 24, _&c._ 36, _&c._ + Theatres, 65. + Their Diversions and Repasts, 68, 69. + Our Author's Dislike of this City, 68, 72. + Why young Gentlemen ought to visit it, 72. + Its Hospitals, 76. + Consistories, 81. + The Time when all Ceremonies are laid aside, 105. + Their Funerals, 107, 108. + Mourning, 108. + Their Fireworks, 109. + Its Governor, 109, 110. + Senator, 110. + Executions, 111, 113. + Their Hatred of other _Italians_, 127. + + _Rota_, Tribunal of, 109. + + _Rotonda_ Church, 7. + + ROTTERDAM, _t._ 426. + + _Rubempre_, Prince and Princess _de_, 300, 309. + + _Rubens_, Painter, 317, 358, 359. + + _Ruhi_, Marquis _de_, 318. + + _Ruspanti_, Pensioners, why so call'd, 133. + + _Ruspoli_, Signior, his Promotion to be a Cardinal, 77 to 80. + + ---- Prince's, Funeral, 108. + + _Rysnic_, 370, 425. + + + S + + _Sacrament_, Holy, the Grandeur and Solemnity of the Pope's Procession + with it, 124, and of the Parish of _St. Sulpice_ in _France_, 202. + + _Saltzu, Herman de_, 336. + + _Salviati_, Painter, 39. + + _Santa Croce_, Prince of, 42. + + SANTEN, _t._ 362. + + _Santini_, Marquis, 341. + + _Santa-Buona_, Duke, 60. + + _Sardam_, Village, 389. + + _Sardini_, Prelate, his Imprisonment, 92. + + _Sardinia_, K. the Pope's Grant to him, _ibid._ + + _Sardinia, Victor Amedeus_ late K. of, his Abdication and Imprisonment, + 156 to 164. + Son's Duty to him, 157 to 164. + + _Sarno_, Duke of, 136. + + SARZANA, _t._ 143. + + _Sastago_, Count _de_, 318. + + _Savoy_, Duchess of, 156. + Palace in the _Strand_, 435. + + _Savoy_, Princes of, 435. + + _Savoyards_, Character, 171. + + _Saurin_, M. 414. + + _Saxony_, _John George_ IV. Elector of, 446. + + _Scaliger_'s Character of _Lyons_, 173. + + _Scarlet_, why the Cardinals Robes and Caps are of that Colour, 86. + + _Scarron, Paul_, the Poet, who was Madame _de Maintenon_'s Husband, + 264. + + _Schasberg_, Count _de_, 361. + + _Scheld_ River, 3. + + SCHEVELING, _t._ 400. + + SCHLANGENBADT, _t._ 357. + + _Schourff_, Baron _de_, 346. + + _Schouts_, _Dutch_, 376. + + SCHWALBACH, _t._ and Waters, 356. + + _Schwartzo_, a _Jew_, 411. + + _Sculpture_, not the best in _London_, 434. + + _Seaux_, the Duke of _Maine_'s Seat, 223. + + _Schonborn_, Countess _de_, 350. + + ---- _Francis-George_, Count _de_, Bishop of _Triers_, 350. + + ---- Bishops of _Spires_, and _Bamberg_, 350, 353. + + _Sebastian, St._ Marchioness _de_, 156, 157, _&c._ 160, 162, 164. + + ---- K. of _Portugal_, 87. + + ---- _St._ t. taken, 258. + + _Seignelay_, Marquis of, his Bombardment of _Genoa_, 144. + + _Senator_, of _Rome_, 110. + + _Seneca_'s Statue, 49. + + _Senesino_, the Singer, 466. + + _Senez_, Bishop of, 240. + + SENS, _t._ 183. + Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218. + + SERSARA, _t._ 143. + + _Servants_, the Custom of treating 'em in _England_, ridiculed, 465. + + SESTRI, _t._ 143. + + _Ships_, the Difference betwixt the _English_ and _Spaniards_, and + those of three Decks, and two, 138. + + _Sinzendorf_, Count, 232, 403. + + ---- Countess, her Conversion to Popery by a Flash of Lightning, 149. + + _Sixtus_ IV. his Power as to Hell and Purgatory, 25. + + ---- V. Pope, 8, 9, 25, 31. + + _Skates, Dutch_, describ'd, 384. + + _Slingeland_, the (late) Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, 406. + + _Smith, Richard_, Bookbinder, and his Wife, their tragical Catastrophe, + 270, _&c._ + Their Apology for killing themselves and their Child, and the + Confession of their Faith, 271, 272. + + _Snow_, in _August_, 13. + + _Sobieski_, Prince and Princess. 61, 63. + Her Arrest, as she went to be marry'd to the Pretender, 61. + Her Escape, 61, 62. + Her Reception at _Rome_ by Lady _Marr_, &c. and the Cardinals, 63. + Her Death, _ibid._ + + _Sodomite_, the pert Answer of one to a Cardinal, 112. + + _Soissons_, Congress, 295, 296. + + _Solare_, Chevalier _de_, 162, 163, 164. + + SPA, _t._ and Waters, 325. + Great Resort to it, 326. + + _Spain_, Q. Dowager of _Lewis_ I. her Marriage, and her silent Visit + from _Lewis_ XV. 207. + Her Retirement to a Convent. 208. + + _Spaniards_ Arrival at _Leghorn_, 134, 136, 137. + Comparison between their Officers and Ships, and the _English_, 138. + + _Sparr_, Baron _de_, 346, 347. + + _Speik_, Madame _de_, 361. + + _Spigo_, Marquisate, and Marchioness, 157, 158, 160. + + _Spinola, John Baptist_, Cardinal, 130. + + _Spork_, M. _de_, 405. + + _Stadthouse_, at _Amsterdam_, 377 to 380. + + _Stage_ Players, the extravagant Respect paid to 'em in _France_, 266, + _&c._ + A Joke put upon them by President _Harlai_, 267. + + _Stampa_, General, 120. + + _Stein_, Baron, 311. + + _Stilletto_, the frequent Use of it at _Rome_, 73, 74. + + _Stoves, Dutch_, describ'd, 372. + + _Strafford_, Earl of, 438, 451, 452. + His prophetical Conversation with the D. of _Ormond_, 453. + + _Strappa Corda_, what, 111. + + _Strickland_, Bishop, 319. + + _Strozzi_, Duke, 52. + + _Suarez_, Madame, 135. + + _Sudarini_, Marquis, his Present of a fine Coach to his + Daughter-in-law, 106. + + _Sulpice, St._ the Parson's, Lottery, 201. + His Parsonage a fat one, 202. + Its Seminary, _ibid._ + + _Surnames_, the Moderns blamed for not giving them to their Heroes as + well as the Ancients, 251. + + SUSA, _t._ 168. + + + T + + _Tallard_, Duchess, 205, 211. + + _Tancin_, Archbishop of _Ambrun_, 240. + + _Tapistry_ Manufactures, 308. + + _Targa_, Bp. Cardinal _Coscia_'s Brother, 91. + + _Tavannes_, Count _de_, 182. + + _Taverns, English_, better than the _French_, 465. + + _Tenebra_, a fine Piece of Music, 96. + + _Terrasson_, Abbe, 243. + + _Teutonic_ Order, Masters of it, 326. + + _Texeria_, a _Jew_, 411. + + _Thames_ River, 431, 432. + + _Theatres_ at _Paris_, better open'd than shut, 385. + + _Theodore_, Baron _de Neuhoff_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150. + + _Tholouse_, Count _de_, and Countess, 199, 220, 221, 226. + Her Sister, 260. + + _Thou_, M. _de_, Ambassador, his Dispute with a _Spaniard_ about + Precedency, 400. + + _Tingry_, Prince _de_, 296. + + _Tintoret_, Painter, 359. + + TIRLEMONT, _t._ 319. + + _Titian_, Painter, 359. + + _Titus_'s Arch at _Rome_, 34. + + TONGRES, _t._ 323. + + _Torcy_, M. _de_, 237. + + _Tour_ and _Taxis_, Prince and Princess, 306, 307, 308. + His Mother and Children, 307. + + _Tour, Humbert de la_, 172, 173. + + _Touraine, la_, 216. + + _Tranquillity_, Christian, a Poem, on the Disputes of the Times, 279. + + _Treaties_ of Peace, three concluded successively in the Dominions of + the _Dutch_, 370. + + _Tremouille_, Cardinal _de_, 215. + + TREVOUX, _t._ 179, 180. + + _Triers, Francis-George_, Count _de Schonborn_, the present Bishop, + 350, 351. + + _Triple Crown_, by what Pope first worn, 22. + + _Trotti_, Marquis _de_, 346. + + _Tuilleries_, in _France_, Garden, 436. + + _Tulip-Root_, of great Value, 395. + + TURIN, _t._ 152. + Its University, 167. + Its Siege, 152, 153. + + _Tuscans_, the great Hopes they entertained of _Don Carlos_, 139. + + _Tuscany_'s Great Duke, his Manner of giving Audience in Bed, with his + Lap-Dogs, and his hearty Reception of our Author, 131, 132, 134. + His Indolence in his Bed-chamber, and Deshabille, 133. + His Kindness to Pilgrims, and Fondness for the _Germans_, ibid. + His Pensioners and Paymaster, _ibid._ + Who influenced him to recognise Don _Carlos_ for his Successor, 134. + + _Twicked, Wassenaer de_, 412. + + _Tyburn_ Executions, 458, 459. + + + V + + _Vahal_, River, 365. + + _Val de Grace Church_, 198. + + VALENCIENNES, _t._ 296. + + _Valere_, Mademoiselle _de_, 188, 219. + + _Valois, Philip de_, 172. + + _Vander Borg_'s Tapistry, 308. + + _Vander Duin_, Messieurs, 408. + + _Vandyke_, 359. + + _Varengeville, Joanna de_, Wife of the Marshal _Villars_, 255. + + _Vatican_ Palace, 24, 31. + + ---- Library, 25. + + _Vauhan_, M. Engineer, 315. + + _Vayrac_, Abbe, the Author, 273. + His pleasant Rencounter with a pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, 273, + 274. + His Plagiarism, 274. + + _Vendosme_, Duke de, 253. Why he has not left his Fellow, 254. + + _Venerie Castle_, 155. + + _Venice_ and _Amsterdam_ compar'd, 371. + + _Ventadour_, Duke and Duchess _de_, 205, 334. + + _Vermillon_'s Tapistry, 308. + + _Veronese, Paul_, Painter, 359. + + _Versailles_ Park, 436. + + _Vespasian_'s Amphitheatre, 35. + + _Uhlefeldt_, Count _de_, 403. + + _Uhlefeldt_, Mademoiselle _de_, her unhappy Fate in the Fire at + _Brussels_, 301, 403. + + VIAREGGIO Forest and Village, 141, 142. + + _Victor_, King of _Sardinia_, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 155 to + 164. + His Advice to the famous _John Law_, 239. + His Treaty with _France_ and _Spain_, 252. + + _Vienna_ Treaty, 296. + + VIENNE, _t._ 173. + + _Villars_, Marshal de, _Francis Hector_, 250 to 256. + Our Author's smart Answer to him, when he boasted of his Clemency at + _Denain_, 251. + His Invention of a Surname for the Marshal, which put him in good + Humour, 252. + His Creation as Marshal of _France_, _ib._ + His Conduct in the _Cevennois_ and in _Flanders_, 253. + His Preferment to the Government of _Provence_, and his Compliment to + the Memory of his deceased Predecessor, 254. + His remarkable Expressions to the _French_ King, when he went to the + Command in _Germany_, and when he had purchas'd an Estate, + _ibid._ + His Command, Sickness and Death, in _Italy_, 255. + His Family and Character, _ibid._ 256. + His nimble Trip from a Ball to a Battle, _ibid._ + A Sonnet made on him when he set out last for _Italy_, _ibid._ + His Scruple to accept of a Commission to act against the King of + _Spain_, 258. + + _Villeroy_, M. 174, 178, 229. + The Family, _ibid._ 175. + + _Vinci, Leonard_, 66. + + _Vintimille_, N. N. Archbishop of _Paris_, 192. + His Concern for the Goodness of his Mutton, greater than for that of + the Pasture of his Sheep, 193. + His equal Respect to different Orders, and an Epigram upon his + Mandate, in favour of the _Constitution Unigenitus_, 193. + + _Viol_, holy, at _St. Rheims_, the Story of it, 269, 270. + + _Visconti_, Count _de_, and Countess, 300, 302, 307, 308. + + _Vitriarius_, Professor, 397. + + _Voisin_, M. Secretary at War, 235. + + _Voltaire_, the Poet, his Tragedy of _Brutus_ admir'd, 265. + Criticis'd, 266, 467. + + _Urban_ V. Pope, 22. + + _Urban_ VIII. Pope, his Order about the Cardinals Title, 86. + + _Vrilliere_, M. Secretary of State, 209, 237, 238. + + ---- Madame _de_, 238. + + _Ursini_, Cardinal, his Election to be Pope, 26, 27. + + _Ushers_ of the Pope, their Privilege, 81. + + UTRECHT, _t._ 367, 368, _&c._ + + ---- its Walls resembling those of Jericho, 368. + _Lewis_ XIV. afraid of its Cellars, _ibid._ + + _Uxelles_, Marshal de, 354. + + + W + + _Wager_, Admiral's Arrival at _Leghorn_, whither he convoy'd the + _Spaniards_, 136. + + _Waldeck_, Prince, 21, 57. + + _Wales_, _Frederic_, Pr. of, 447. + + _Wallingford_, Ld. his Marriage, 240. + + _Walpole_, Sir _Robert_, 450, 451. + + _Walpol_, Baron _de_, 350. + + _Walrave_, Colonel, 362. + + _Wartemberg_, Countess de, 409, 410. + Her innumerable Adventures of Gallantry, 409. + + _Wassenaars_, of _Holland_, 412. + + _Water-works_, finer than those of _St. Cloud_, 269. + + _Watteville_, Mademoiselle de, 311. + + _Welderen_, Count _de_, 407, 408, 409. + + _Werf, Vander_, a Painter, 359. + + WESEL, _t._ 362. + + _Westminster_ Abbey and Palace, 440, 441. + + _Wetzler_ Chamber, 324. + + _Whitehall_, Palace, 435. + + _Whitworth_, Lady, her smart Rebuke of Cardinal _Corsini_, for + pretending to meddle with Houshold Affairs at _Cambray_ Congress, + 119. + + _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assassination, 425. + + _William_ III. Prince of _Orange_'s Dispute for Precedency with the + Count _d'Estrades_, 401. + + ---- Disputes adjusted relating to his Succession, 405, 406. + + ---- _Charles-Henry_, Prince of, 412, 413. + + _Windmills_ of _Holland_, 389. + + _Windsor_ Palace, by whom built, 450. + + _Wirtemberg_, _Lewis_, Pr. of, his, saying to the _Genoese_, about + _Corsica_, 150. + + ---- _Alexander_, Pr. of, 307. + + _Wogan_, Mr. in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62. + + _Wolffgang de Neubourgh_, Duke, 359. + + _Wolsey_, Cardinal 450. + + _Women_ Lying-in, a Protection to their Husbands, 396. + + _Worms_, fatal to the Dykes of _Holland_, 392, 393. + + _Wrangel_, Marshal _de_, 309. + + _Wurmbrand_, Count _de_, ibid. + + _Wuytiers Barkman_, Bp. of _Utrecht_, 369. + + _Wynendale_ Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153. + + + Z + + ZEIST, _t._ 367. + + ---- Count _de_, 412, 413. + + _Zuchro_, Painter, 39. + + _Zumjungen_, Marshal _de_, 308, 309. + + _FINIS._ + + + + + FOOTNOTES: + + +[1] His Eminency died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, after which, +Signior _Thomas Ratto_, and _Ottinelli_, heretofore Auditor of the +_Rota_, and now Bishop of _Cordoua_, had the Care of the _Spanish_ +Affairs, in which he was succeeded by Cardinal _Acquaviva_. + +[2] Now Pope _Clement_ XII. whose Nephews and Nieces dwell in it. + +[3] The last Hackney that was presented on the Part of the House of +_Austria_, was deliver'd by the Prince of _Santa Croce_, whom the +Emperor appointed for that Ceremony, because _Spain_ having conquer'd +the Kingdom of _Naples_, the Constable was not willing to concern +himself in the Affair, before it was finally decided. This was in the +Year 1734. + +[4] He is now a Cardinal and Archbishop of _Benevento_. + +[5] This Princess, who was born _July_ 6. 1702. O. S. died _Jan._ 7. +1735. + +[6] As the Baron above three Years since durst not venture much Money on +the fulfilling of this Prophecy, we may now say it is not worth a +Farthing. + +[7] His Eminency is return'd to _France_, and succeeded in his Embassy +by the Duke of _St. Aignan_. + +[8] The Death of this Cardinal has been already mention'd. His Successor +is M. _Ratto_, Bishop of _Cordoua_. + +[9] _Henry_ was Son to King _Emanuel_, and _Sebastian_ was Grandson of +_John_ III. Brother to the Cardinal _Henry_. + +[10] He did it however in the Year 1733. + +[11] Since these Letters were wrote, he is actually return'd, and +hitherto he is come but poorly off. Tho' his Fate be not yet intirely +determin'd, 'tis certain that he will not be degraded. A Sentence has +been pass'd upon him, and ratify'd, whereby he is declar'd +excommunicate, and out of a Possibility of being absolv'd, but by the +Pope, even _in articulo mortis_; he is also to be confin'd in a +Fortress, depriv'd of the Power of Speaking or Voting, _&c._ But as +_omnia venalia Roma_, even more now than in _Jugurtha_'s Time, the +Cardinal _del Gindici_, who is a Friend of his Eminency _Coscia_, gave +him to understand, that the Pope was resolv'd to treat him as a Grand +_Vizier_ in Disgrace; that he must absolutely refund, and that all his +Sins shou'd be blotted out. Consequently his Eminency submitted to +implore his Holiness's Clemency, on Condition of paying well for it; and +in fine, his Pardon has been tax'd at thirty thousand Ducats. He has +clamour'd against it not a little; but the Holy Father wou'd not abate +an Ace of it, and the Cardinal was forc'd to acquiesce; however, as he +always watches for the Death of the Pope, he desir'd to pay it at +several Terms; and upon depositing ten thousand Crowns down, he +immediately receiv'd Absolution, his Guards were taken off, and he had +Liberty granted him to walk about in the Castle of _St. Angelo_, and to +converse there with his Brother the Bishop of _Targa_. He pleads +Poverty, and shuffles off his Payments from one time to another, in +constant Expectation that the Gout will rise into the Pope's Stomach, +and take him out of his Way. At length, in 1734, he paid down ten +thousand Crowns more. But a Collector of Taxes, from whom he formerly +receiv'd a great Present to procure him an Acquittance from the Chamber, +to which he ow'd seventy thousand Crowns, died lately insolvent, and +without making good the Fraud; and as _Caesar_, they say, _loses +nothing_, the Chamber comes upon Cardinal _Coscia_, who is condemn'd to +pay this Deficiency too, and the Pope won't hear any Talk of compounding +it. + +[12] He Afterwards created him a Cardinal; but he died at _Benevento_ in +1733. Nobody after his Death wou'd accept of this Benefice, till the +Pope gave it to the Abbat _Conti_, a _Roman_, who only took it upon +Condition that his Holiness wou'd give him a red Hat to boot; which he +did accordingly, at the last Promotion of Cardinals. + +[13] It was publish'd in the News-papers of 1732, that this Gentleman +was sentenc'd to be beheaded, but that his Holiness had commuted that +Sentence to ten Years Imprisonment. It was afterwards said in the public +News, that the Pope had shorten'd it, first, to seven Years, and then to +three Years Imprisonment. At length the Pope was for removing him to +_Perousa_, or elsewhere; but the Prelate wou'd not go, and said, If he +cou'd not have his intire Liberty, he wou'd live and die in the Castle +of _St. Angelo_. + +[14] The Origin of this Ceremony, if we may believe Father _Sirmond_ and +_Ciccarelli_, was this: It comes from a Custom they had at _Rome_, of +distributing to the People upon every _Whitsunday_ the Remainder of the +Paschal Wax-taper, which was consecrated on _Holy Saturday_. The Vulgar, +who are always superstitious, appropriated several Virtues to this +consecrated Wax, particularly that 'twas a Preservative against the +Delusions of the Devil, and the Injuries of Lightning, _&c._ and they +us'd to burn little Pieces of this Wax in their Houses. There being not +enough left of the Paschal Wax-taper to satisfy the Cravings of the +People, the Archdeacon took it into his Head to take some other Wax, +which he sprinkled with Oil, bless'd it, and made little Bits of it in +the Form of a Lamb, and then distributed them to the People. Afterwards +they only flatted those Pieces of Wax, and impress'd 'em with the Stamp +of a Lamb bearing the Standard of the Cross. They believe that none but +such as are in Orders have the Power to touch them, and they are cover'd +neatly with embroider'd Stuff to be given to the Laity. There is nothing +by which the Monks more successfully impose upon the Credulous; for to +such they distribute _Agnus Dei_'s that were never on t'other Side of +the _Alps_. + +[15] He is the Pope's Vicechamberlain. + +[16] When he was at the Congress at _Cambray_, he had a Fancy to regulate +every Plenipotentiary's Houshold; and indeed, that was all he did there. +One Day he took it into his Head to give his [OE]conomical Rules at my +Lord _Whitworth_'s, but he did not find my Lady very compliant; for, said +she, M. _le Marquis, We make use of the +Italians+ to regulate our ++Concerts+; but as for the Table, pray give us leave to consult the ++French+._ + +[17] Cardinal _Grimani_ succeeded Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ in the +Legateship of _Bologna_, as soon as the present Pope had created him a +Cardinal; but he died in the Legateship, and his Holiness conferr'd it +upon _John Baptist Spinola_, whom he had just before advanc'd to the +Purple. + +[18] Nevertheless there is a Difference between these two Families: The +Duke _Ferdinand_ the last Survivor of that of _Kettler_, but of the +Family of _Medicis_ there are Princes still living, who have an +incontestable Right to the Succession; for 'tis certain, that _Bernard +de Medicis_, the eldest Brother of Pope _Leo_ XI. descended from +_Juvenco de Medicis_, Brother of _Sylvester Clarissimus_, the Head of +the present reigning Branch, which _Bernard de Medicis_ was the Son of +_Ottaviano_, the last Standard-bearer of _Florence_ in 1528. This +_Bernard_ purchas'd the Barony of _Ottajano_ near Mount _Vesuvius_ in +the Kingdom of _Naples_, to which he transferr'd this Branch of the +_Medicis_; and the present Prince of _Ottajano_, and Duke of _Sarno_, +who married _Theresa_, Daughter of _Charles_ Prince of _Acquaviva_, is +his Great Great Grandson. + +[19] The Count _de Charni_ signs N. _d'Orleans C. de Charni_. He is a +Bastard of the _Orleans_ Family, but by whom is not known. He has +advanc'd himself at the Court of _Spain_, and is now Commandant of +_Naples_, and Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom. + +[20] This Prince went thro' _France_, and arriv'd at _Florence_ the +Beginning of the Year 1732. + +[21] This young Prince died in 1734, as his illustrious Uncle did in the +Year following. + +[22] The _Spaniards_ took it at the Beginning of the War, and 'twas the +first of their Exploits. + +[23] _Giafferi_ did all he could; but was obliged to submit to Force, +the Republic being assisted by the Troops which the Emperor had +assembled in _Lombardy_, to oppose the Enterprizes he was then +apprehensive of from the _Spaniards_. _Giafferi_ was arrested, but by a +great deal of Art and Cunning he obtain'd his Freedom, after the +_Genoese_ thought the _Corsicans_ were disarmed, destitute of Leaders, +and reduced to a Sense of their Duty; and he retired to _Tuscany_. But +the _Corsicans_ being no better treated than they were before their +Accommodation, took up Arms again, upon which _Giafferi_ procured them +all manner of Assistance, and actually returned to that Island, and put +himself at the Head of the Malecontents, who seemed to have a fair +Chance of regaining their Liberties. They were so uppish in Expectation +of foreign Assistance, that they rejected some new Concessions made to +them by the _Genoese_, in _Dec, 1734_, declar'd _Aitelli_ General of the +Forces, and one _Costa_, a Man of great Intrigues, General-Auditor of +the Island; and, at the same time, made Proposals to the King of _Spain_ +to take them under his Protection, having renounced all Subjection to +the Republic of _Genoa_, declar'd themselves a free and independent +People, and resolv'd to defend their Liberties to the last Man. At +length they receiv'd some Recruits of Money and Ammunition by one +_Theodore_, who call'd himself the Baron _de Neuhoff_, and arriv'd in +_March_ 1736. on Board an _English_ Ship from _Tunis_; but in the Name +of what Power he acted, is as yet a Mystery. He had the Success to be +proclaim'd King of _Corsica_, and Copper Money was coin'd there with his +Effigies; but he has since been obliged to abandon the Island; and the +_French_ have taken upon them to accommodate Matters between the +_Genoese_ and _Corsicans_. It must be left to Time, to shew whether the +_Genoese_ will have Reason to be pleased with this formidable Mediation. +After all, that Republic has too much Cause to remember the Saying of +Prince _Lewis_ of _Wirtemberg_, who, when he return'd with the Imperial +Troops from suppressing the former Rebellion, told them, That the Island +was not worth the Expences which the Republic had been at in reducing +the _Corsicans_, and what they must be at continually to keep them in +Subjection. + +[24] The Prince had a Kindness for Mademoiselle _de Cumiane_, before she +was married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, when she was Maid of Honour +to Madame Royale. She was afterwards a Lady of Honour to the Duchess of +_Savoy_, and at last Tire-Woman to the Princess of _Piedmont_, late +Queen of _Sardinia_. She has been a Widow since 1723. After she was +married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, she still preserv'd the King's +Friendship and Esteem, and was always in great Credit with him. When she +became a Widow, the old Flames of Love broke out again; the King gave +her an Apartment at Court, where he cou'd see her without being seen, +and he took Care of her Family. + +[25] 'Tis said, that the real Motive of this Abdication was his +Perplexity on Account of the Succession of _Parma_ and _Tuscany_, and +the Introduction of the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_. They say he +had enter'd into Engagements relating to this Affair, first with the +Court of _Vienna_, and afterwards with _Spain_; and it not being +possible for him to satisfy either of those Courts without exposing +himself to the Resentment of the other, he resolved to abdicate, at +least for a Time, because he knew of no other Way to extricate himself +from the Dilemma. + +[26] The Abdication was performed the 3d of _September_, in the Castle +of _Rivoli_. The declar'd Motives, were the Fatigues of a Reign of fifty +Years, the Infirmities of old Age, and the Necessity of some Interval of +Retirement, between a Throne and a Tomb. + +[27] The King was not marry'd to the Countess of _St. Sebastian_, till +he came to _Chamberry_, where she met him; for he set out from _Turin_ +without her. When he marry'd her, he gave her one hundred thousand +Crowns, with which she purchased the Marquisate of _Spigo_ for her +Children, and then exchang'd her Title of Countess of _St. Sebastian_ +for that of Marchioness of _Spigo_. + +[28] _Victor Amedeus_ took it into his Head to reascend the Throne, as +soon as he heard of the Conclusion of the Treaty of _Vienna_, by which +the Emperor consented to the Introduction of the _Spaniards_. He then +let the Marchioness _del Spigo_ into the true Motives of his Abdication, +and into the Measures he intended to take for reascending the Throne. +This ambitious Woman encourag'd him, and being withal a very cunning +intriguing Person, she left no Stone unturn'd to bring a Project to +bear, which would set her on the Throne; and she engag'd all her Friends +and Relations in the Affair, of whom some betray'd her. + +[29] These Proofs were his sending for the Marquis _del Borgo_ to +_Montcallier_, demanding the Instrument of Abdication from him, giving +him but twelve Hours time to fetch it, and his appearing before the +Citadel of _Turin_, with a View of getting into it, and of animating the +Garison to assist him in his Enterprise. + +[30] These were all Privy Counsellors and Great Men, who being assembled +by Order of the King, and consulted on the imminent Danger of his being +dethron'd were all of Opinion for putting _Victor Amedeus_ and his +Consort under an Arrest. + +[31] He died _Oct._ 31. 1732. + +[32] She died _Jan._ 13. 1735. and his Majesty has since married Sister +of the present Great Duke of _Tuscany_. + +[33] There is now but one Prince, the youngest being dead; but there are +three Princesses. + +[34] This is the Cardinal _Ferrera_, Bishop of _Verceil_. + +[35] This wou'd be very extraordinary, as Mr. _Addison_ observes, were +it not for other neighbouring Mountains that rise above it. + +[36] This shews another Mistake of _Misson_, who says this Side is the +most rugged. + +[37] The _French_ are not the only People who boast of the Grandeur and +other Advantages of _Lyons_, as appears from this Epigram by _Scaliger_. + +_Flumineis Rhodanus qua se fugat incitus undis, Quaque pigro dubitat +flumine mitis Arar, Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus orbis in orbe, +Lugdunumque vetus orbis in orbe novo. Quod nolis, alibi quaras; hic +quare quod optas: Aut hic, aut nusquam, vincre vota potes. Lugduni +quodcunque potest dare mundus habebis: Plura petas, hac urbs & tibi +plura dabit._ + +i. e. + +_Where +Rhone+ impetuous rolls, and where the slow And gentle +Saon+ +with milder Streams does flow, There +Lyons+ stands; where we united +find, What scatter'd thro' the World delights the Mind; And if you still +seek more with greedy eye, +Lyons+ can ev'n more Wonders still supply._ + +[38] Her Amours with M. _de Lauzun_ have made a great Noise. + +[39] This Misfortune came upon the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_, merely +from a Suspicion which the Regent entertain'd, that the Duke had a Hand +in the pretended Conspiracy of the Prince of _Cellamare_, the Ambassador +of _Spain_; which, they said, was to remove the Duke of _Orleans_ from +the Regency, and to vest it in the King of _Spain_, who wou'd have put +the Duke of _Maine_ in his Place, according to _Lewis_ XIVth's last +Will. The bare Suspicion however amounted to fix the Guilt upon this +Prince, and all that belong'd to him. It were to be wish'd, that some +Eye-witness of what was then transacted at Court, and in _Bretagne_, +wou'd give the Public an exact Account of it. + +[40] The Friar, who in the other Orders is a Prior, is call'd a Minister +in this Order, which it better known in _France_ by the Name of the +_Mathurias_. + +[41] In all Appearance, the _Latin_ Name _Lutetia_ comes from +_Leucothecia_, which signifies _white Town_, a Name that _Strabo_ gives +to this City, the Houses of which were plaister'd. By Abbreviation it +was call'd _Lutetia_. As to the Name _Paris_, 'tis certain, that it +comes from _Para-Isis_, near _Isis_, a well-known Goddess, who had +several Temples in this Canton; where she was so particularly +worshipp'd, that from her Name the Inhabitants were call'd +_Para-Isians_, the Neighbours of _Isis_. They, who have carefully +examin'd the Gate of the _Carmelites_ Church, and the Building of its +Chapel, will own, that it was formerly the Temple of this Goddess; whose +Statue, in Iron, holding a Handful of Ears of Corn, is still on the +Front of the Building. + +[42] The Author does not say _whither_ nor _from whence_ those Sheep are +stray'd. All those Sheep feed in the same Pasture, or at least, there +are but few of 'em that feed in the Pastures to which M. _de Vintimille_ +could wish to bring the others. Some Slanderers don't scruple to say, +that this _good_ Prelate gives himself more Uneasiness about the +_Excellency of the Dishes_ at his Table, than the Goodness of the +Pasture for his Sheep: For he has been seen to give the same Welcome to +the _Jesuits_, and the _Fathers of the Oratory_, to the _Capuchins_ and +the _Benedictins_, &c. For the Sake of such of our Readers as have a +Taste for _French_ Poetry, we insert the following _Epigram_; which was +made upon this Prelate's Mandate in Favour of the Constitution: + +_Le Public est un Sot, d'etre scandalise Du Mandement que +Vintimille+ +Vient de repandre dans la Ville, Me disoit ce Matin un Docteur avise! Il +est, dit il, d'Usage indispensable, Pour qu'un Saint soit canonise, +D'entendre l'Avocat du Diable._ + +[43] This is a Thing in Question; and the Negative seems to be plainly +proved by the Opinions of the Counsellors of the Parlement, all Men of +unexceptionable Character, who voted for putting the Reverend Father to +Death. + +[44] He is now Archbishop of _Sens_, and very well known for the famous +Story of _Maria Aliacoque_, a celebrated Saint of his own making. + +[45] The Count _de Gergy_ died in 1733 in his Embassy, and was succeeded +by the Count _de Froulay_. + +[46] As the Parson of St. _Sulpice_ stretches his Invention to the +utmost, how to allure the Multitude, in 1734 he out-did all that he had +ever done before, so that his Procession was more like the March of an +Army than any thing else, because of the many Trumpets, Kettle-drums, +Hunting-horns, _&c._ which made the Air echo with their Flourishes. It +may by Degrees come to be like the Processions at _Cambray_, _Antwerp_, +_Brussels_, and other Towns of the _Netherlands_; where, to the Scandal +of the Christian Religion, we see the Revival of all the Impertinencies +of the Pagan. + +[47] The Mode of _Bagnolette_, _i. e._ Bathing-tubs, came from this +Village, to which the Country-women carry them. + +[48] _Philippa Elisabeth_ of _Orleans_. She died of the Small-pox _May_ +21, 1734. unmarried, and universally lamented. + +[49] _Louisa Diana_ of _Orleans_. She was married in 1732. to _Lewis_ of +_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conti_, by whom she had a Son, born _Sept._ 1, +1734. while the Prince was in the King's Army upon the _Rhine_. + +[50] It should have been observ'd in the Article of _Turin_, that this +Queen died the second of _January_, 1735, O. S. and the King has since +marry'd the eldest Sister of the present Duke of _Lorain_. + +[51] He is married since 1732, to _Louisa-Diana_ of _Orleans_, youngest +Daughter of the late Regent. + +[52] The Origin of the Fable is this. _Mehemed Ben Aschen_, or the Son +of _Aschen_, Admiral of _Sale_, was deputed from the King of _Morocco_, +but I know not in what Year, to the Court of _France_. When this Corsair +was at _Paris_, he heard great Talk of the Princess of _Conti_'s Beauty, +and of the particular Affection which the King had for her: In order to +ingratiate himself with the _French_, he gave out, that the Emperor his +Master having seen the Picture of that Princess among other Effects +which belong'd to a Christian who was taken into Slavery, he thought her +the most beautiful of her Sex; and that his _Moorish_ Majesty said, That +if he had such a Lady in his Seraglio, he should never desire any other. +_Mehemed_'s Story was presently carried far and near, but it was told +quite different from the Truth; for it was reported in a very little +time, that he was come to demand the Princess in Marriage for _Muley +Ismael_ his Master. As there seem'd to be something mysterious in the +Picture, a Messenger was sent in all Haste to the Ambassador's Lodgings, +to know the Name of the Slave from whom it was taken; but his +_Mahometan_ Excellency so prevaricated, that his Answer was far from +being satisfactory. Nevertheless, his pretended Demand of this Princess +was so much the Subject of Conversation among the _French_ for several +Months, that according to the Custom of this People, they at length made +a Sonnet upon it, which follows. + +To the Tune of _Je ne suis ne ni Roi ni Prince_. + +_Votre beaute, grande Princesse, Porte les traits dont l'Amour blesse, +Jusques aux plus sauvages dieux: L'Afrique avec vous capitule, Et les +conquetes de vos yeux Vont plus loin que celles d'Hercule._ + +_S'il est bien vrai qu'il vous adore, Que je plains ce pauvre Roi Maure, +D'etre sensible a vos appas! En vain envers vous il s'explique; La +France ne donnera pas Son Ange au Diable de l'Afrique._ + +Which may be thus English'd, + +_Your Beauty, Great Princess, Carries Love's killing Shafts To Nations +the most savage; +Afric+ with you capitulates, And the Conquests of your +Eyes Even those of +Hercules+ surmount._ + +_If it be true that he adores you, How do I pity the poor Negro King, +Who is so smitten with your Charms! In vain he makes his Passion known +to you; For sure +France+ will never give Her Angel to the Devil of ++Africa+._ + +[53] 'Tis a Letter _from a Gentleman retir'd from the World, to a Friend +of his_, wherein he celebrates the happy Innocence, and the Freedom of +his tranquil Retreat, in a Style that cannot but be pleasing to the +Admirers of _French_ Poetry; and for their Sakes we insert the Original, +with only an _English_ Paraphrase in the Margin. + +Je vois regner sur ce rivage The Author begins with expressing +L'Innocence et la Liberte. his Surprise at the Concurrence Que d'Objects +dans ce paisage, of Objects of different Qualities Malgre leur +contrariete, in his Retirement; such as M'etonnent par leur Assemblage! +Abundance with Frugality, Abondante frugalite, Authority with +Indulgence, Riches Autorite sans Esclavage with Sobriety, Richesses sans +Libertinage, Charges, Noblesse, sans fuerte. Honours with Humility: And +having Mon choix est fait, ce voisinage therefore fix'd on this Spot for +Determine ma volonte. his Residence, he implores the Bienfaisante +Divinite, Sanction of the Divine Providence Ajoutez y votre suffrage. to +his Choice. + +Disciple de l'Adversite, Here he says, that having been Je viens faire +dans le village train'd-up in the School of Le volontaire apprentissage +Adversity, he prefers a voluntary D'une tardive obscurite. Obscurity in +the Village; that he Aussi bien, de mon plus bel age has experienc'd the +Instability of J'appercois l'instabilite. Youth; that he has seen the +Return J'ai deja, de compte arrete, of 40 Springs, which he regrets +Quarante fois vu le feuillage that he has so ill improv'd; and Par le +Zephyr ressuscite. promises to make a better Use of Du Printems j'ai mal +profite: the Summer of his Life. J'en ai regret; et de l'Ete Je veux +faire un meilleur usage. + +J'apporte dans mon Hermitage, He says he brings to his Hermitage Un coeur +des longtems rebute a Heart which has been for a long Du prompt et +funeste esclavage, Time the fatal Slave of foolish Fruit de la folle +vanite. Vanity; but that now he is become Paisan sans rusticite, a +Peasant without Clownishness, a Hermite sans patelinage, Hermit without +Bigotry; and that Mon but est la tranquillite. Tranquillity being his +Aim, he Je veux pour unique partage, desires no other Portion in Life La +paix d'un coeur qui se degage but the Peace of his Mind, Des filets de la +Volupte. disentangled from the Snares of Pleasure. + +L'incorruptible probite, Here he declares, that De mes Ayeux noble +Heritage, incorruptible Probity, the noble A la Cour ne m'a point +quitte. Inheritance he deriv'd from his Libre et franc, sans etre +sauvage, Ancestors, did not forsake him at Du Courtisan fourbe et volage +Court, where being frank and free, L'exemple ne m'a point gate, without +being rude, the Example of L'infatigable activite, the crafty giddy +Courtier had not tainted him. He observes the good Effect of his former +Miscarriage; that it has made him active and indefatigable; and he hopes +Reste d'un utile naufrage, from henceforwards to be happy in Mes Etudes, +mon Jardinage, his Studies, in his Garden, and Un Repas sans art +apprete, in a plain Diet dress'd by his D'une Epouse oeconome et sage +frugal prudent Wife, whose good La belle humeur, le bon menage, Nature +is equal to her [OE]conomy. Vont faire ma felicite. + +C'est dans ce Port, qu'en surete In this Port, says he, my Vessel Ma +Barque ne craint point l'orage. dreads no Storm. Let who will defy Qu'un +autre a son tour emporte, the Rage of the Winds, while he Au gre de sa +cupidite, coasts along the Shore, I laugh at Sur le sein de l'humide +plage, his Presumption, and wish him a Des Vents ose affronter la rage; +good Voyage; but reserve my Je ris de sa temerite, Courage for a more +important Et lui souhaite un bon voyage. Passage, and approach with Je +reserve ma fermete Boldness to the Gates of Eternity. Pour un plus +important passage; Et je m'approche avec courage, Des portes de +l'Eternite. + +Je sai que la mortalite The Poet concludes with a Du Genre humain est +l'appanage: Reflection, that since Mortality Pourquoi seul serois-je +excepte? is intail'd upon all Mankind, why La vie est un pelerinage: +should he alone think to be De son cours la rapidite, exempted? And he +says, that since Loin de m'alarmer, me soulage. Life is but a +Pilgrimage, the De sa fin, quand je l'envisage, Rapidity of its Race, +instead of L'infallible necessite alarming, comforts him; and that Ne me +sauroit faire d'outrage. the infallible Necessity of his Brulez de l'Or +empaquete, Death, when he seriously considers Il n'en perit que +l'embalage: the Matter, is no more an Injury C'est tour. Un si leger +dommage to him, than the burning of a Bale Devroit-il etre regrete? of +Gold is to the Metal, which remains intire, tho' the Case that contains +it is consum'd; which, he adds, is too trifling a Loss to be regarded. + + +[54] The King gave this young Duke, when he was but nine Years old, the +Reversion of the Post of Great Admiral, for a New-Year's Gift, on the +first of _January_ 1734. He is handsome, well-set, all Life and Spirit, +and gives very fair Hopes of being a great Man. + +[55] As soon as he arrived, the Place _de Vendosme_, or the Square of +_Lewis le Grand_, where M. _Daguesseau_ liv'd, was set apart for the +Stock-jobbing Trade, which was before carried on in the Street +_Quinquempoix_; and one Morning, a Paper was found at the Chancellor's +Door, with these Words, _Et homo factus est, & habitabit cum nobis_. + +[56] He is actually join'd in the Administration with the Cardinal _de +Fleury_, who was very glad to nominate a Person for his Coadjutor. + +[57] He died some time ago at _Paris_, very much lamented by all that +knew him. + +[58] The present Archbishop of _Ambrun_, famous for his Zeal for the +Constitution, for the Persecution of the Bishop of _Senez_, and for his +little Council at _Ambrun_. + +[59] He died at _Maestricht_ in the Year 1734, a Cornet in the Regiment +of the Prince of _Orange-Friseland_. But Mr. _Law_ has left an amiable +Daughter, who has had a fine Education, and married to Lord +_Wallingford_, Son to the Earl of _Banbury_. + +[60] These Verses are not in the first Edition of these Memoirs, but are +added, by the Bookseller, to the second. + +[61] _James Nompar_ of _Caument_, Duke _de la Force_, an assiduous +humble Servant of Mr. _Law_, and who, by his Management, during the +_Missisippi_ Scheme, drew a great many Pasquinades upon himself, of +which this is not the severest. + +[62] The Abbe _Terrasson_, who wrote in Favour of the Scheme. + +[63] _Law_ had three Cocks for his Arms. + +[64] As these Lines will not admit of a Version to the Satisfaction of +an _English_ Reader, 'tis sufficient to acquaint him, that they are a +Satire upon the Humour which prevail'd at that Time, among People of all +Ranks, from the Duke to his Scullion, to be Adventurers in Mr. _Law_'s +Scheme; a Madness which was contemporary, and equally mischievous with +the Delusion that was so predominant in our own Country, in that fatal +Year of 1720, when so many People were, as we may term it, cast away in +the _South-Sea_, and the lesser Whirlpools, call'd _Bubbles_, of which +there was almost an infinite Number. + +[65] This, with the Calculation annexed to it, is an Addition by the +Editor, to the second Edition, which was not in the first Edition of +these Memoirs. + +[66] There was a Label affixed to the Gate of the _Palais_ Royal, with +these Words, _Esurientes implevit bonis, & Divites dimisit inanes_, i. +e. The Hungry he hath fill'd with good Things, but the Rich he hath sent +empty away. + +[67] He was of the _Lorain_ Family, and was succeeded in his Office of +Master of the Horse by his Son Prince _Charles_. + +[68] The King of _France_ having declar'd War against the Emperor in +1733, in Conjunction with the Kings of _Spain_ and _Sardinia_, his +Majesty gave the Marshal _de Villars_ the Command of his Army in +_Italy_; to which Country he repair'd after the Conquest of the +_Milanese_ had been very far advanc'd. He took _Pizzighitone_; but the +Imperial Army being at length form'd, the Count _de Merci_, who +commanded it, having taken the Field with it on a sudden, by passing the +_Po_, made so many Motions, that the old Marshal, being forc'd to be +_every-where_, according to his old Phrase, fell sick upon it, and was +oblig'd to leave the Army. Some do not stick to say, that he had Orders +for it from Court, where his Conduct was not approv'd: Be this as it +will, his Distemper growing worse upon his Arrival at _Turin_, he died +there the 17th of _June_ 1734, in the 84th Year of his Age, in the same +Room, as 'tis said, where he was born, his Father the Marquis _de +Villars_ being then there by Order of the King. In 1702 he married +_Joanna-Angelica Roque de Varengeville_, whose Father was the King's +Ambassador at _Venice_. The Family of _Villars_ is originally of +_Lyons_, and first began to be distinguish'd in the Person of _Claude de +Villars_, Lord of _Chapelle_, and _Masclas_, second Son to _Francis de +Villars_, born about _Ann._ 1516. The Marshal was to the last a Man of +uncommon Gaiety and Gallantry; for whether Fighting or Dancing, he +appear'd with the same Vivacity and good Humour, and seem'd an Enemy to +none except the Jesuits. What did not consist with such a Temper, was +his Love of Money; and he inrich'd himself too much by the Spoils of +War, and the Contributions he used to raise for Safe-guards, _&c._ But +as for his Soldier-like Character, this one Story of him may suffice; In +1702 the Marshal order'd his Army to pass the _Rhine_ at _Haguenau_, the +same Night that he invited several Gentlemen and ladies to a Ball, where +he danc'd till two o'Clock in the Morning, and then mounted his Horse +unobserv'd, and follow'd his Army; with which he surprised the Prince of +_Baden_, and fought a Battle by the Time the Ball was broke up; for +which Action the King gave him the Marshal's Batoon. The Conquests of +_Milan_ and other Places in _Italy_, which he made in 1733, were +accompany'd also with Dancing and Balls; but Age and Infirmities, at +last, made a Conquest of him. His Memory and his Judgment so fail'd him, +that he became troublesome to the Army; but his fighting Humour still +prevail'd, and he would have endanger'd all, had not the King of +Sardinia prevail'd on the King of _France_ to recall him. However, the +King of _Sardinia_ took Leave of him in the Field with great Civility, +and at his Arrival at _Turin_, where he fell ill of a Dysentery, +accompany'd with a Fever, of which he died, he was receiv'd very +graciously by the late Queen, who presented him with a Diamond Sword, +valued at 300 Pistoles. + +The following Sonnet was presented to the Marshal, when he set out for +_Italy_. + +_Villars, tes grands Exploits qui sauverent la France, Dans les Siecles +futurs t'immortaliseront. La Paix fut le doux fruit de ta haute +prudence; Mais de nouveaux Lauriers doivent ceindre ton front._ + +_Le Pere de ton Roi, l'Espagne & le Piemont, Sur toi seul aujourd'hui +fondent leurs Esperances. Arme ton bras vainquer, cours venger leur +affront; L'Allemand pourra-i-il soutenir ta presence?_ + +_Les grands Coeurs en tout tems conservent leur valeur, L'Age respecte en +eux leur premiere vigueur, Ils savent s'affranchir des Loix de la +Nature:_ + +_Semblables aux Lauriers que leur main va cueillir, Qui des ans, des +saisons ne craiguent point l'injure, Les Heros ont le droit le ne jamais +vieillir._ + +i. e. + +_+Villars+, thy great Exploits, which sav'd all +France+, In future Ages +will immortalise thee. The Peace was the kind Product of thy great +Wisdom; But new Laurels are still to deck thy Brow._ + +_The Father of thy King, +Spain+, and +Piedmont+ too, Upon thee alone do +now found all their Hopes. Haste with thy conqu'ring Arm their Quarrel +to avenge; Will +Germany+ be able to withstand thy Presence?_ + +_Great Souls always retain their Valour; To their former Vigour Age +itself pays a Respect; They can shake off the Yoke of Nature's Laws._ + +_Like to the Laurels gather'd by their Hands, Which are Proof against +the Injuries of Years and Seasons, Heroes never stoop to old Age._ + +[69] By Mrs. _Arabella Churchill_, Sister to the late Duke of +_Marlborough_. + +[70] The King, having appointed the Marshal _de Villars_ to command in +_Italy_, thought fit to send the Marshal _de Berwic_ to oppose Prince +_Eugene_, whom the Emperor had nominated for the Command on the _Rhine_. +He began the Siege of _Philipsburg_; but on the first of _June_, O. S. +1734, as he went to take a View of the Trenches, he was kill'd with a +Cannon Ball between his two Grandsons. He is succeeded in all his Titles +by his Son the Duke _de Liria_, now Duke of _Berwic_, _&c._ who has been +lately at the Court of _Naples_. + +It will be doing no Dishonour to the Marshal, to say he made War his +Trade, which he studied with an unwearied Application; and as he never +wanted Courage, so none had more military Knowledge. Having consider'd +War as a Science, he left little to Chance, or even Bravery; but +depended upon Skill and Discipline, which was the Thing that gain'd him +the Battle of _Almanza_. As he was so regular and mechanical a Warrior, +he was himself the Life and Soul of his Army, not as he was belov'd, but +as he was much fear'd by his Soldiers, whom he never spar'd, and least +of all, his own Countrymen, that came to serve in _France_. He was +reserved even to his General Officers, rarely consulting them, nor so +much as communicating the Orders he had receiv'd, or the Designs he had +projected, but as they had their own Parts to execute in them. Tho' he +was the best regular General of his Time, yet he was the least +enterprizing one. He was never a great Favourite at the Court of +_France_, which is something to be wonder'd at, considering the Use he +was made of upon every Occasion; for as a Soldier of Fortune, he had no +Obligations but for his Appointments; and yet attach'd himself to +_France_ preferably to any other Nation. As he was bred up in the War +against the _English_, his Enmity to them became a second Nature, which +is suppos'd to be the Reason that he never did one of that Nation any +Service, beside those of his own Family. As the Marshal took care to be +obey'd by the Officers and Soldiers of the Armies he commanded, he was +always obsequious himself to the Orders of the Court, of which there +needs no other Proof, than the Instance above-mention'd; when he +appear'd in Arms against _Spain_ with Alacrity, after he had receiv'd +the highest Honours from King _Philip_. + +He had the Title of Duke of _Berwic_, and likewise the Garter conferr'd +on him by King _James_. He was born in 1671, so that when he died, he +was sixty-three Years of Age. + +[71] The Family of _Estrees_, originally of _Picardy_, was in Possession +of the Dignities of the Crown before _Gabriella_; for her Grandfather +was Great Master of the Artillery of _France_. + +[72] This is the common Name in _Italy_ for Interpreters or Expounders +of Antiquities. + +[73] Here should have been added, _of the Poet_ Paul Scarron. She was +the Daughter of _Constans d'Aubigny_, Baron of _Surincan_, and of _Joan +de Cardillac_. _Charles d'Aubigny_, Governor of _Berry_, and Knight of +the King's Orders, who died in 1703, was her Brother. Her Grandfather +was _Theodore Agrippa d'Aubigny_, Admiral of _Bretagne_ and _Guienne_, +celebrated for his Zeal for the Protestant Religion, and Author of a +_History of his own Time_, of the _Confession_ of _Saney_, and of the +Baron _de Faneste_. Every body knows, that the Attachment of his Widow +_Scarron_ to Madame _de Montespan_, made her Way to _Lewis_ XIV. who was +so pleas'd with her Humour, that she continued in the highest Favour +till that Monarch's Death; and enjoy'd a Pension of 50,000 Livres, which +was punctually paid her by _Lewis_ XV. every Year as long as she liv'd. +After her Death, the Duke de _Noailles_ became Marquis _de Maintenon_ in +Right of his Wife. + +[74] This alludes to a Joke of the President _de Harlai_, who when he +was accosted by the Comedians, in the Name of their _Troop_, which that +worthy Gentleman never car'd for, especially since _Tartuffe_, and the +Comedians saying to him, _My Lord, the_ Company _of Comedians_, &c. The +President made Answer, _Gentlemen_, the Troop _of the Parliament_, &c. + +[75] The Author refers here to the Works directed by Mr. BENSON, one of +the present Auditors of the Imprest (for which see p. 67. of the First +Volume of these Memoirs). + +[76] The Bottle called the Holy Phial, is kept at _Rheims_, in the Tomb +of St. _Remy_, in the Church of that Name. It has not been filled since +the Coronation of _Clovis_, when 'tis said this Phial was brought from +Heaven, with the Oil with which that first Christian King of _France_ +was consecrated; and the Frier who shews it at _Rheims_, says very +seriously, That when the King is sick, it dries away; so that when he +dies, there is not a Drop left in the Bottle; but that as soon as his +Successor is proclaimed, it fills again of its own Accord. I tell you no +more than what I heard with my own Ears, and tho' I could not help +smiling at it, the Frier was not angry. The Liquefaction of this Oil is +altogether as miraculous as that of St. _Januarius_'s Blood at _Naples_. + +[77] The Abbe _de Vayrac_ was of a good Family in _Guienne_, and had all +the Vivacity natural to that Province, which stood him in the stead of +Wit; but it was of the abusive Kind. If ever an Author was a Plagiary, +he was. He published a _State_ of _Spain_, and a _State_ of the Empire; +which last brought him under an ignominious Sentence of the Court of +_Vienna_. He had also composed a History of _Portugal_, which he could +not obtain a Licence for Printing, because it appear'd that he had paid +greater Compliments in it to the _Portuguese_, than to the _French_. He +died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, as he returned from a Journey he +had made to _Holland_. + +[78] In 1643. + +[79] This famous Counsellor was restor'd not long after, at the pressing +Instances of his Brethren, and has merited the Elogiums of the Minister +himself, as well as of all _France_. + +[80] _Pucelage_ is the _French_ Word for _Virginity_. + +[81] Neither was he included in the Promotion of the four Marshals of +_France_, which the King made in 1734, tho' he had served with great +Bravery ever since the Beginning of the last War between _France_ and +_Germany_. + +[82] This Minister pleases them to Perfection. They all like his +Behaviour, and the Diligence with which he dispatches Business. In a +Word, he is beloved and adored. + +[83] In _November_ 1736, she was delivered of a Son. + +[84] Prince _Christian_ II. Son of the Prince _de la Tour_. He resigned +his Canonship of Cologn, on purpose to serve in the Emperor's Army. + +[85] The Marshal _de Zumjungen_ dy'd the 25th of _August_ 1732. The +Count _de Wurmbrand_ commanded till another was appointed. + +[86] _Gand_ signifies _Ghent_ in the _German_, and _Glove_ in the +_English_. + +[87] He is the Great Great Grandson of Prince _Maurice_, by the Lady _de +Malines_. + +[88] The Emperor lately appointed him to relieve the Count _de Sastago_, +Viceroy of _Sicily_, at the Time that Don _Carlos_, King of _Naples_, +went to make a Descent upon _Sicily_, with twenty thousand Men, under +the Command of the Count _de Montemar_, Duke of _Bitonto_. + +[89] M. _d'Amerongen_, who is descended of one of the best Families in +the Province of _Utrecht_, having lost his elder Brother, who was in the +Regency, has quitted his Service to succeed him in the Government. + +[90] It was burnt quite to the Ground in the Beginning of the Year 1734. + +[91] VOL. I. LETTER V. + +[92] He succeeded _Francis Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, Elector of _Mentz_, who +was chose Grand Master the 12th of _July_ 1694, In the Room of his +Brother, _Lewis Anthony_ of _Neubourg_; and he is the fourteenth Grand +Master since the Defection of _Prussia_, formerly the Seat of this +Order, which has existed ever since the Year 1190; when it was +instituted in the Holy Land, by _Henry_ King of _Jerusalem_. A Duke of +_Masovia_, having invited to his House _Herman de Salsza_, the fourth +Grand Master of the new Order, chose in 1210, he gave him, and his +Knights, Lands upon the Frontiers of _Prussia_; the Inhabitants whereof +being _Pagans_, did great Mischief to his Subjects, and he promised to +leave them all the Lands that they conquered from those People, which +the Emperor and the Pope confirmed. Before the Year 1250, they took +_Prussia_, _Courland_, and a Part of _Livonia_; and put all the _Pagans_ +to Death that refused to turn Christian. The _Teutonic_ Knights, being +driven out of the Holy Land, by the taking of _Acre_, went and +established the principal House of their Order at _Marpurg_, in the +Beginning of the fourteenth Century; from whence they transferred it to +_Marienbourg_ in _Prussia_. The Order made such a rapid Progress, that +in the Beginning of the following Century, it was in a Condition to +oppose _Jagellon_, King of _Poland_, with an Army of eighty-three +thousand Men; which that Prince, _Anno_ 1410, cut in Pieces. After that +time the Order was scarce ever at Peace, but was always at Variance, +either with the _Poles_, or the _Lithuanians_, or with the _Russians_, +or with its own Subjects; till it was obliged to make a dishonourable +Peace in 1446, with _Casimir_ King of _Poland_. The Grand Masters, from +that Time to 1510, when _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_ was chose Grand +Master, could not repair their Losses. The latter having embraced the +Protestant Religion, made a Bargain in 1515, with the King of _Poland_, +and yielded all _Russia_ to him, on Condition of holding of him in Fee, +what was afterwards called _Ducal Prussia_, or _Brandenbourg Prussia_, +which now forms the Kingdom of _Prussia_; and the rest was incorporated +with _Poland_, and forms the Palatinates of _Culm_, _Marienbourg_, _&c._ +Thus were the _Teutonic_ Knights obliged to retire to _Germany_, where +their Order is shared into twelve Provinces, each of which has its +particular Commandeurs; and their oldest Commandeur is called the +Provincial Commandeur. These twelve Commandeurs depend on the Grand +Master, and have a Right to chuse him. The Grand Master's Residence is +at _Marien-shal_ in Franconia, and his Revenue about twenty thousand +Crowns. 'Tis said, the Order does not yet despair, that some Day or +other, it will be able to recover its lost Dominions. + +[93] He is dead. + +[94] He was Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, Bishop of +_Strasbourg_, _Halberstadt_, _Passau_, _Olenitz_ and _Breslaw_; Abbot of +_Hirchsfeldt_, _Murbach_ and _Luders_. + +[95] Nevertheless, he was disgrac'd in 1733, for a very trifling Cause, +which made the Count _de la Lippe_, also, lose all his Employments; and +his own Disgrace has been attended with that of his whole Family, and +with great Alterations at the Elector's Court, where the Count _de +Hohen-Zollern_ is now Grand Master of the Houshold, and First Minister; +and the Baron _de Hornstein_ Great Chamberlain. + +[96] He was scarce twenty-eight Years of Age. + +[97] The Baron _de Roll_ has succeeded him in his Place. + +[98] The Count, who is a Lover of the Sciences, intends to make a +_Lycaum_ of his Castle, and a little _Athens_ of his Town. He begins by +forming a numerous Library, and longs to get the Learned about him. But +the main Point is to make a good Choice of them; and the first Choice +which the Count has made of a Man who has already engrossed his Favour, +does not promise well for the future. + +[99] He died in 1734. + +[100] On the Road, two Leagues from _Cleves_, there's the Palace of +_Meiland_, where the King of _Prussia_ resided at the Beginning of the +Illness which he contracted in 1734, as he returned from the Imperial +Army on the _Rhine_. + +[101] The Name of this Prelate was _Barkman Wuytiers_. He died in 1733, +at no very great Age, with the Character of a Man of the strictest +Virtue. The Court of _Rome_, and the _Jesuits_, conceiv'd great Hopes +after his Death. The latter, after having been banished out of the +United Provinces by very severe Laws; employed the Mediation of a +certain Court to succeed in their Design of getting an Apostolical Vicar +accepted in the Place of the Archbishop of _Utrecht_; but this Design, +which was look'd upon as dangerous to the Liberty of the Republic, +miscarry'd, and the Deceased was succeeded by _Theodore van der Kroon_. + +[102] What is said throughout this Article, of their Manner of living, +must be understood only of the common People, and not of Persons of any +distinguished Rank, nor even of the Merchants. + +[103] As there is no Dignity superior to that of the Burgomaster, they +who attain to it succeed one another in the several Functions, without +passing to other Employments: They are the Members of the Council, who +are sent to the College of Counsellor-Deputies, or who fill the Posts of +Treasurers, _&c._ But the Burgomasters are they who go to the Assemblies +of the States of the Province, with the Pensionary or Syndic of the +City, who is the Spokesman. + +[104] He is since dead. + +[105] This Minister was succeeded in 1734, by the Count _d'Uhlefeld_, +Son to the Lady who has the chief Direction of the Houshold to the +Archduchess, Governess of the _Austrian Netherlands_. He is come to a +Post which was so well fill'd before, in a very difficult Juncture, +which has given him an Opportunity to discover the great Talents he has +for Negotiation. As his Family is one of the best regulated, so it may +be said to be one of the most magnificent. The Count _de Sinzendorff_ +died suddenly about the End of _September, 1734_, at the Seat of the +Count _d'Asperen_, at the very Instant when he was preparing to return +to _Vienna_. + +[106] These Differences were indeed adjusted during the Time that M. _de +Masch_ resided here with a Ministerial Character; but he had no Hand in +the Accommodation, it being negotiated only by M. _Luiscius_ the King's +Resident, and M. _Duncan_, the Prince of _Orange_'s Privy-Counsellor, or +Major-Domo. + +[107] Upon the Death of the King of _Poland_, he was confirmed by the +new Elector of _Saxony_. + +[108] M. _Preys_. He has resided at the _Hague_ for several Years, and +was here during the Time of the Ambassador _Palmquist_, whom he +Succeeded. He is a Minister of consummate Knowledge in Affairs, and is +consulted by others of a more modern Standing, both with Pleasure and +Profit. + +[109] M. _Greys_ has for several Years had the Care, as Envoy +Extraordinary, of the King of Denmark's Interests with the States +General. He was bred up to be a Minister at the Altar, but had more +Inclination to be a Minister of the Cabinet, in which he succeeded, and +is very much esteem'd, but sees very little Company. + +[110] This able Minister died in _December, 1736_. + +[111] M. _de Keppel_ married the Widow of the late Count _de Welderen_, +one of the greatest Men of this Republic, who left three Sons and five +Daughters, that are the Ornament of the Nobility of _Guelderland_, and +the Darlings of the _Hague_, where Foreigners have an easy and agreeable +Access to this Lady's House. M. _de Keppel_, one of the finest Gentlemen +of his Time, and one of the bravest Officers of the State, died in 1733, +leaving only one Son, who is an Officer in the Horse Guards. + +[112] The good Lady died of the Small Pox in 1735 in a very advanced +Age. Tho' she had made a Profession of Devotion for a certain time, she +had not intirely lost her Taste for Gallantry, in which she certainly +out-stripped the Lady _Mazarine_; for she declared herself, that it +would be more easy to number the Shells upon the Shore at _Scheveling_, +than her Adventures of Gallantry. She never missed her Aim but at one +Man, and that was King _Augustus_. She did all she could to engage his +Caresses, if not his Affection, but without Success; and every body +knows the Adventure of my Lord _Raby_, who having an Amour with the +Countess at _Berlin_, surprised her with King _Augustus_ striving to get +loose from her close Embraces. Nor is this a Wonder; for tho' the King +of _Poland_ did not want Gallantry, yet he was for a Woman of some +Politeness, of which the Countess had no Share; for being the Daughter +of a Waterman at _Emmeris_, she had not the completed Education. She had +Beauty indeed, but was in every other respect a coarse Lady. +Nevertheless, during her Residence at the _Hague_, the Youth who had +nothing else to employ their Time, constantly reported to her House, and +among these she had always some favourite Spark. Every body knows her +Intrigues with the famous Count _de F----_; and her Last Will and +Testament has render'd several others immortal. You will be surprised to +know the End of this Woman, who had been so much talked of, who had +regaled so many People in her Time, and to whom every body had easy +Access. She dies, is immediately removed out of her Chamber, and put +into a Coffin in the Entry of her House, which is sealed up, and she is +interred without one of her ungrateful Favourites vouchsafing to attend +her Funeral, or indeed any body but the Bearers, and a few Neighbours, +who were insulted by the Mob. + +[113] The Issue of this Dispute betwixt the Jew and the Anabaptist has +been, that the latter has lost the Day, the Comedians being gone. The +victorious Jew has hit upon an Expedient to metamorphose his future +Opera into a public Concert, which he gives every _Monday_ in the +Afternoon, where one sees all the People of Fashion of both Sexes; and +there they sing Opera Acts, and the finest _French_ Cantatas. + +[114] Of the latter, there died a Baron in _December_, 1736, who was one +of the principal Men, and held the greatest Offices of any in the +Republic, next to the Grand Pensionary _Slingeland_, whom he survived +but a few Days. + +[115] M. _de Wassenaar-Twickel_, a Name which he derives from a fine +Estate in the Province of _Over-Yssel_, of which he is Deputy. + +[116] _William Charles Henry Friso_, Prince of _Orange_, was married +_March_ 14. 1734. to the Princess Royal of _Great Britain_. + +[117] The Count _d'Auverquerque_ died Velt-Marshal of the Republic, +about the End of the Campaign of 1708. + +[118] As the History of this extraordinary Man came to the Hands of the +Bookseller since the Publication of the first Edition, he thought he +should do a Pleasure to the Public, by inserting it in this. + +[119] He was executed in _July_, 1734. + +[120] Or the _Palace of Orange_ in the Wood at the _Hague_. It was +yielded to the Prince of _Orange_ by his Treaty of Partition with the +King of _Prussia_. + +[121] _Margaret_, Daughter of _Florence_ IV. Count of _Holland_. She was +Countess of _Henneberg_. + +[122] This belongs also to the Prince of _Orange_. + +[123] This is an ignominious Punishment inflicted Abroad for such +heinous Offences at deserve neither Banishment, nor Whipping, nor Death. +The Criminal who suffers it, stands in a Shirt, with a Rope about the +Neck, holding a burning Taper in one Hand, attended by the Executioner, +and other inferior Officers of Justice, and in this Posture begs Pardon +of the King, of Justice, and the Public, for the Offence committed. + +[124] This most Excellent Princess departed this Life the 20th of _Nov._ +1737, to the infinite Regret of the King and Kingdom. + +[125] His Governor is the Hon. _Stephen Poyntz_, Esq; and his Preceptor +in the learned Languages _Jenkin Thomas Philips_, Esq; formerly +Secretary to the Commissioners for the Fifty New Churches, and since +preferr'd to be his Majesty's Historiographer. + +[126] Her Royal Highness, as is well known, is since married to the +Prince of _Orange_. + + + + + TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS + + +Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that +remain, some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when +they fall in the middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been +moved. Footnotes are now immediately preceding this note. We have +rendered consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or +spacing of such pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context. +We have corrected inconsistencies in the application of accents to +the same word when repeated in the same grammatical context. +Paragraph formatting has been made consistent. The publisher's +inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been corrected. +A table of contents has been added. 'OE' and 'oe' have replaced the +respective ligatures. + +The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number +represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext +except for footnotes since they have been moved. + + Page Change + + 7 the Condu ctof[Conduct of] the Popes, + 8 not a Man spoke a Work[Word]. + 9 in a Posture of Astonish mentat[Astonishment at] the Appearance + 17 proclaimed Pope on _Wedcesday[Wednesday]_ the 12th + 20 After this, th y[they] went all, both Cardinals and Prelates + 87 {footnote} _Sebastian_ was Grandon[Grandson] of _John_ III. + 110 intituled[intitled] Captain of the Appeals; + 122 chief Lackeys of the Cardinals rideing[riding] + 202 the famous Story of _Maria Aliacoque[Alacoque]_, a celebrated + 208 as she allighted[alighted] from the Coach, + 222 Assistance from the King his Maste[Master]: + 225 {footnote} Et lui southaite[souhaite] un bon voyage. + 229 intent upon carrrying[carrying] his Point, + 232 Count _Sinzendorf's[Sinzendorff's]_ coming from _Vienna_ + 244 a Madness which was co-temporary[contemporary], + 264 After her Death, the Duke de _Noalies[Noailles]_ became + 292 General of the Coriers[Couriers], Posts and Relays + 294 about their Master's Preeminency[Pre-eminency]. + 309 and lives very handsomly[handsomely], + 309 but lives handsomly[handsomely] upon what he has + 313 The Inhabitants have a livid unwholsome[unwholesome] Complexion. + 351 His Disbursments[Disbursements] seem to me to be very moderate + 359 _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Corregio[Correggio]_, + 376 are commonly employed as Tresurers[Treasurers] of the City, + 389 and the _Amsterdamers[Amsterdammers]_ themselves cannot + 419 a young Man of an unblamable[unblameable] Behaviour; + 425 of the _Franche Comte[Comte]_. The Republic + 443 that of being sollicited[solicited] by the Person in Disgrace + Index _Churchil[Churchill], Arabella_, 257. + Index Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gameing[Gaming], + Index _Hagendorp[Hogendorp]_, M. 413. + Index _Lewid'ors[Lewis d'Ors]_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants + Index _Peyronie[Peyrome]_, _la_, Surgeon, 292. + Index _Popes_, the Days on which he[the] Cardinals kiss + Index _Rochebone[Rochebonne]_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176. + Index _Terasson[Terrasson]_, Abbe, 243. + Index _Tintorit[Tintoret]_, Painter, 359. + Index _Tourlane[Touraine], la_, 216. + Index _Walpot[Walpol]_, Baron _de_, 350. + Index His Conduct in the _Cevennios[Cevennois]_ and in + Index _Wassienaurs[Wassenaars]_, of _Holland_, 412. + Index _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assasination[Assassination], 425. + Index Disputes adjusted relateing[relating] to his Succession, + + * * * * * + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de +Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II *** + +***** This file should be named 38501.txt or 38501.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/5/0/38501/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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