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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
+       Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels From
+       Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland,
+       England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not
+       Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but
+       the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several
+       Courts.
+
+Author: Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2012 [EBook #38501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note: The original publication has been replicated
+faithfully except as shown in the TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS at the end of
+the text. This etext presumes a mono-spaced font on the user’s device,
+such as Courier New. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. But the
+publisher also wanted to emphasize words in sentences already italicized,
+so he printed them in the regular font which is indicated here with: _The
+pirates then went to +Hispaniola+._ Footnotes are located near the end of
+the work.
+
+[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode]
+
+
+
+
+                                  THE
+
+                                MEMOIRS
+
+                                   OF
+
+                            _CHARLES-LEWIS_,
+
+                           Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                                 BEING
+
+   The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro’
+
+                        _GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_,
+                          _ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_,
+                         _FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c.
+
+                       In LETTERS to his FRIEND.
+
+ Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;
+
+                                  BUT
+
+     The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS.
+
+                            In TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. II.
+
+                  The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS.
+
+                               _LONDON_:
+
+ Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_.
+                              M.DCC.XXXIX.
+
+
+
+
+                           TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                       LETTER XXVIII          1
+
+                       LETTER XXIX           24
+
+                       LETTER XXX            46
+
+                       LETTER XXXI           55
+
+                       LETTER XXXII          77
+
+                       LETTER XXXIII         95
+
+                       LETTER XXXIV         113
+
+                       LETTER XXXV          129
+
+                       LETTER XXXVI         151
+
+                       LETTER XXXVII        168
+
+                       LETTER XXXVIII       179
+
+                       LETTER XXXIX         189
+
+                       LETTER XL            203
+
+                       LETTER XLI           228
+
+                       LETTER XLII          261
+
+                       LETTER XLIII         277
+
+                       LETTER XLIV          290
+
+                       LETTER XLV           310
+
+                       LETTER XLVI          325
+
+                       LETTER XLVII         337
+
+                       LETTER XLVIII        348
+
+                       LETTER XLIX          357
+
+                       LETTER L             364
+
+                       LETTER LI            384
+
+                       LETTER LII           394
+
+                       LETTER LIII          430
+
+                       LETTER LIV           449
+
+                       INDEX                473
+
+                       FOOTNOTES
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                   MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, July 30, 1730._
+
+Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which
+has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
+_Europe_: But don’t expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
+because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
+I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
+beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
+Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
+shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
+rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
+described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
+Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.
+
+ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
+That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
+Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
+be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
+to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one’s first
+Entrance thro’ the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
+with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
+the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
+and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
+Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
+When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv’d a Square of a
+triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_,
+through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
+in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
+the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
+middle of the Square there’s a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
+Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
+by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there’s
+a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
+worthy of ROME: What follows appear’d to me to have the Air of a Village.
+The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
+consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
+the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
+Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
+Hovels.
+
+From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which
+lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in
+the Middle, which fronts the Gate. ’Tis called the Street _del Corso_,
+because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run
+Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day
+by the Coaches. This Street runs thro’ almost all ROME, and has some fine
+Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_,
+_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.
+_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
+substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar,
+which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the
+Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
+place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_’s Square is so called,
+because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
+it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
+the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+
+The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is
+called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
+leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so
+contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
+the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
+Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME.
+
+The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in
+it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one
+would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
+less deserves that Character. ’Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
+both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_,
+which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that
+Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In
+the Middle of it there’s a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
+in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
+Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_,
+belonging to the _French Minims_. ’Twas made during the Pontificate of
+Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a
+rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
+that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if
+true, ’twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
+perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
+Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
+_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
+dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
+
+The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
+Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies,
+sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
+Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
+every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of
+Dust; and one is not only pester’d with Beggars, but every Minute in
+Danger of being crush’d to pieces between the Coaches, which press
+forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
+how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
+for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
+rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have
+the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I
+extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and
+there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
+Wheel. ’Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are
+not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
+the Ladies Coaches.
+
+Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets
+which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
+_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or
+to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
+Bravo’s, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous
+of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
+This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
+it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
+Opportunity of finding Refuge; but ’tis a rare Income for the Bravo’s and
+their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
+Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
+
+The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square
+_Navona_, which, tho’ by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
+Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. ’Tis
+adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
+of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
+of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by
+Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
+this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
+Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
+it, and on the Top there’s an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
+which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.
+At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
+sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
+principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and
+_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho’ made by
+different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
+suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
+oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
+cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.
+
+Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_,
+begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.
+’Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is
+an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
+Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
+belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal
+_Corsini_[2]. There’s a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
+Painting.
+
+The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its
+round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has
+been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an
+Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he
+afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope
+_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to
+the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
+the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the
+Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
+Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
+the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
+an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
+The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
+Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
+heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of
+that magnificent Covering, and employ’d the Brass partly on the High Altar
+of St. _Peter_’s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
+cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who
+did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_,
+who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
+the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it
+is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_
+was always spared.
+
+St. _Peter_’s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
+Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
+though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be
+worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
+lies before this superb Pile, can’t but be admired by all that see it.
+Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
+in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is
+round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
+which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
+an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
+holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
+continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
+lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
+runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
+Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who
+may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments
+with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
+’twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_’s
+Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
+_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
+a Weight was raised to that Height. ’Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
+Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
+Workmens’ Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
+of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a
+Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
+almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
+confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
+Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
+Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
+promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
+body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
+and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
+including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.
+caus’d some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
+at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
+that shou’d salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_,
+and as many _Ave Maries_.
+
+When you have passed over the great Square, there’s an Ascent of some
+Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
+before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
+_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
+of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which
+form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all
+over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
+_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has
+represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
+Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
+Portico, is _Charlemaign_’s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
+_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but ’tis not
+near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the
+Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
+shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.
+
+I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_’s did not strike
+me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
+Azure, but I was mistaken; tho’, after having examined Things closely, I
+was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
+High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
+Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
+Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
+Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
+Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
+naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
+none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
+his Holiness’s express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
+adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
+_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There’s a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
+of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
+surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
+which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is
+hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.
+
+At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_’s Chair,
+a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
+Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and
+St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
+raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
+which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
+Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand,
+has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of
+such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
+Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in
+whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
+not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
+altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
+_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes
+granted Burial in St. _Peter_’s Church, where, except the Successors of
+that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
+Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
+honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
+Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated
+her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.
+_Christina_’s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
+Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
+perfectly well executed.
+
+Tho’ every thing in St. _Peter_’s Church is worthy of the particular
+Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
+the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
+than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
+that was ever done by the Ancients. ’Tis but a few Years that the Artists
+have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
+of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
+_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_’s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
+coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
+would swear ’twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
+Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
+extremely astringent. ’Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
+is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
+design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
+grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
+their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
+on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_’s Church will be possessed of a
+Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.
+
+The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
+Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
+Ornaments. ’Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
+Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
+leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
+the Globe, which, ’tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
+_Peter_’s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
+by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.
+
+All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and ’tis certain that
+the least of ’em contains something that will entertain a curious
+Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
+are, St. _Paul_’s without ROME, St. _John_’s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary
+Major_’s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_,
+our Lady’s of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the
+_Jesuits_.
+
+As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_’s Church, there is a Tradition,
+that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
+pray’d to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
+what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
+signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
+the Place which they would find cover’d next Day with Snow; a Thing the
+more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.
+But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
+Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next
+Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
+by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of
+Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.
+The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
+the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_,
+because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
+last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those
+Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
+
+I have been so long upon Churches, that ’tis high Time to shift the Scene.
+I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
+referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
+ROME to another Opportunity.
+
+The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
+warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
+have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
+chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_
+was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
+account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the
+Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
+their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, ’tis the Opinion of many People,
+that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho’ he
+had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
+the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
+Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
+at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time,
+it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
+Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
+Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
+Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
+by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
+_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
+as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
+the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
+on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely
+for having done an Act of Justice.
+
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for
+Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_,
+pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
+Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed,
+and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_’s Chair, if Cardinal _de
+Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
+was a _Jansenist_. ’Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great
+Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own
+Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_
+Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won’t swear. Though, be it as it
+will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy,
+they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_,
+who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
+of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
+to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him
+directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to
+the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were
+accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
+consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his
+Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_
+having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
+the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the
+Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
+Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_
+hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared
+openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
+Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
+apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some
+other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
+to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him;
+and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
+conjured him for God’s sake not to oppose the said Cardinal’s Advancement.
+‘You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
+end your Days here? ’Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
+have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course
+of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
+the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
+the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can’t be long in his
+Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
+obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
+consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.’ The Cardinal
+Chamberlain water’d his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
+Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the
+best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
+of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any
+longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man
+whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
+length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope,
+they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
+Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be
+Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the
+Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
+_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
+Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were
+bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the
+Minister. Whether ’twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
+Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_;
+yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are
+even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and ’tis certain that
+they were hated there with a Vengeance. ’Tis very probable, therefore,
+that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
+Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
+of the new Pope’s Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
+Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
+exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
+Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.
+
+Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_,
+in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory
+of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
+Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
+_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that
+he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
+good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
+he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.
+
+In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.
+received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
+here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a
+while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and
+placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
+of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
+down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
+after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. ’Tis only upon that Day
+and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope’s Foot; for
+afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
+the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great
+Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and
+then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry’d him thro’ the
+great Stair-case to St. _Peter_’s Church. When they came before the Chapel
+of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
+he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
+Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
+where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
+Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_’s Chapel;
+and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
+his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
+where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there
+were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
+Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.
+
+The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
+giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
+Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_
+Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a
+long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
+Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME
+about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
+him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
+Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of
+the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
+they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they
+had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. ‘The _Romans_,’
+said the Pope, ‘are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
+Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don’t win the Love of my
+Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.’ Then
+turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal,
+whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; ‘I exhort you, Nephew,
+_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
+Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
+rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
+may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
+it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
+want Friends.’ ’Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.
+ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.
+
+The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I
+can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
+who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
+in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
+Procession to _Sixtus_’s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
+then was carried thro’ the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_’s Portico,
+where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_’s Chapter to
+kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
+the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
+kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
+the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer
+prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the
+Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
+on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_,
+they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
+white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
+they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
+with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
+Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
+Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
+his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
+a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from
+his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
+before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
+his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
+he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
+him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
+_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth
+away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
+Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope’s Heart; for he
+lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
+When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
+deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
+of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
+him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
+Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
+erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
+upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
+Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_,
+with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
+the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
+were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
+I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here
+these two Months.
+
+From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
+pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope’s
+Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
+Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a
+Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
+returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
+consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
+one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
+to a Custom, thro’ a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
+had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
+Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
+by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
+to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
+great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
+seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
+Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
+Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
+People that were crowded in St. _Peter_’s Square, and the Streets that
+led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were
+fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
+their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
+placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
+dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
+Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
+were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play’d off at the Castle of
+St. _Angelo_.
+
+Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
+seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the
+Pope’s Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
+Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
+that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope’s Throne is
+covered with precious Stones, tho’ I assure you, that there cannot be a
+greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
+Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
+august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_’s Church, indeed, is
+hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but ’tis the
+very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_’s Throne, upon
+this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can’t imagine where _Misson_
+could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
+affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
+has deviated from the Truth.
+
+The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown’d, was _Damasus_ II. in the
+Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
+commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
+_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
+Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
+Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.
+
+Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and
+took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father
+marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond
+of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
+seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
+in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback,
+his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
+Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
+as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw
+_Clement_ XII. remember’d that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed
+nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._
+
+In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I
+traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
+Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
+that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are
+here styled Palaces.
+
+I think, that the Pope’s two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and
+_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
+for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
+Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
+healthful Air in the City.
+
+The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
+and so close to St. _Peter_’s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
+its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don’t see any thing to be admired
+in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
+employed in it; but as to the Inside, ’tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
+help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
+the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to
+have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has
+done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
+of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.
+
+_Sixtus_’s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
+Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
+by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, ’tis said, represented all the Persons
+of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that ’twas impossible to mistake
+them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
+did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
+of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_’s Chair, finding himself among
+the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
+out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
+extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
+thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since ’twas his Misfortune
+to be in such Company, there he must stay.
+
+The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
+the World. ’Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_,
+and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
+best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
+_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The
+former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
+_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_
+submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased
+by the Pope from that Queen’s Heirs. The Building which contains this
+Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from
+the very Foundation. ’Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the
+Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
+is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
+are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted,
+both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
+of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
+Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
+Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of
+sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
+ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
+Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.
+
+The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
+his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought
+it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_,
+which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho’ it joins to the _Vatican_. And
+as ’twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
+if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
+the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the
+Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
+with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
+Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
+Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
+used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
+Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.
+
+I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
+touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
+most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
+_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_,
+he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a
+Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the
+_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
+_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. ’Twas there that he heard of the
+Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When
+he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
+that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
+the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
+at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
+Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
+at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
+enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
+were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should
+give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
+however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
+Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
+they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
+_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
+_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
+College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
+for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
+Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
+State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had
+done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand
+Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he
+converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body
+groan’d; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so
+byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even
+the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to
+the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he
+would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_
+confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of
+every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my
+Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken
+me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too
+strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made
+his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his
+Good-nature, that he wept too.
+
+I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which
+however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals
+represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of
+innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the
+World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he
+would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged
+was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_
+easily brought himself off. He said, ’twas all Calumny; swore with Tears
+in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in
+Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his
+Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope
+should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing
+an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty
+_Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: ‘Your Holiness
+being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give
+Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, ’tis thought
+proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o’Clock, the
+Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an
+Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to
+the Cardinal’s Apartment, and peep thro’ the Key-hole.’ The Pope did not
+fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected,
+the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at
+Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he
+kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty
+Cardinal in this Posture, cry’d out to somebody that was with him, _Do but
+see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light!
+Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the
+Cardinal’s Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have
+accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to
+think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the
+Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the
+Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a
+Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of
+Hypocrites. But, to the Pope’s Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_
+was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him
+being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they
+were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal
+_Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the
+Hands of the_ Turks.
+
+This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave
+away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold
+all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of
+Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been
+told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from
+the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them
+offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred.
+Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the
+golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, ‘I am
+sorry I can’t let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but
+here’s one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not
+wrong them.’ Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the
+Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope.
+They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at
+their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit.
+
+At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having
+complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great
+many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor?
+Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State
+Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he
+said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have
+any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put
+them back, tho’ perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long
+expired.
+
+This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst
+of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in
+the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry,
+would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him
+rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as ’twas possible for any mean
+Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day
+in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any
+Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the
+_Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher’d, and without any
+Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he
+happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his
+Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So
+much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have
+been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now
+return to the _Vatican_.
+
+This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of
+ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent
+_Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought
+proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but,
+Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are
+the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in
+it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are
+also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that
+they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the
+Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St.
+_Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard,
+to denote that God had stay’d the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of
+St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME,
+carried in Procession to St. _Peter_’s Church two Images of the Virgin,
+the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_,
+the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church
+of St. _Mary in Compitello_.
+
+From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace
+of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other.
+_Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes
+have carried it on. ’Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none
+of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed
+is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_
+V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all
+contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here
+are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This
+vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle,
+encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross
+Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the
+Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main
+Building there’s a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant
+_Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an
+admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they
+are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of
+this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being
+rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold
+Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the
+reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other
+in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope’s Apartments there’s one of the
+most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far
+into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in
+_Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here
+rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much
+admir’d by the _Italians_, who never travell’d out of their Country, where
+Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_,
+who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this
+Country with very great Indifference.
+
+The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a
+Traveller’s Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII.
+The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn’d on both
+Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are
+plac’d, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At
+the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing
+_Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the
+Victory gain’d over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is
+form’d by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc’d
+Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there’s an _Equestrian_
+Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the
+most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the
+Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer’d some Years ago
+to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou’d be put into the Horse’s
+Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it
+is at present. ’Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable
+Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all
+Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the
+Direction of _Michael Angelo_.
+
+In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two
+others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer’d.
+There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of
+the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there’s a stately
+Fountain adorn’d with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals,
+representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the
+Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of
+excellent Sculpture.
+
+The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings,
+particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the
+Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by
+_Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by
+_Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus
+Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in
+short, which I don’t mention, as being of less Value, and which are not
+much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou’d
+pass with us for Master-pieces.
+
+Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call’d _Campo-vaccino_, I
+cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to
+particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the
+admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold
+without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou’d have the
+same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to
+see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the
+ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much
+Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury’d; beyond
+that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the
+immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of
+_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain
+Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Divæ Faustinæ_; on your Right-hand the
+melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the
+eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was
+built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having
+reconcil’d the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. ’Twas in this Temple,
+according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of
+the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the
+Mistress of the Universe, as wou’d put you in mind of the Instability of
+this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou’d you say, if you shou’d
+go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of
+all Things, had spar’d, but was destroy’d by Men, and such too as were
+most concern’d in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was
+beautiful? And what wou’d you think, if you saw there was scarce enough
+remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once?
+’Twas _Vespasian_ that caus’d it to be built after the Model which was
+intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and ’tis built
+of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena
+is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the
+highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for
+the common People. They say it contain’d eighty-five thousand Spectators.
+It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great
+Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter’d five
+thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and
+_Urban_ VIII. caus’d the _Coliseum_ to be demolish’d, and made use of the
+Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.
+
+Having entertain’d you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now
+take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you
+into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general.
+I don’t deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere;
+but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so
+much Notice as is taken of ’em. Methinks, ’tis with the Buildings of ROME,
+as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish’d, we are
+apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou’d censure. A great
+many Palaces are admir’d here, barely from the Prepossession that
+Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was
+true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an
+_Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but ’tis not so
+now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their
+Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in
+_France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the
+Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments
+of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which
+have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms
+have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is
+the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix’d where
+they shou’d be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and
+Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or
+six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving
+Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not
+look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As
+to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of
+Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho’
+there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work’d, that
+the Gilding employ’d on them serves only the more to expose their
+Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either
+of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn’d
+with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which
+are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six
+Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some
+Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in
+such sorry old-fashion’d Frames, that they disparage them. They have but
+few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal
+Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are
+beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou’d be
+better pleas’d to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I
+don’t think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here
+is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a
+long while in their Graves; and there’s no House furnish’d in the modern
+Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_
+and _Carolis_.
+
+’Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here
+the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME;
+_Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building
+were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of
+_Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of
+Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This
+Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn’d
+with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up
+fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of
+oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to
+this Palace is through a great Court, adorn’d within by _Doric_ Pillars;
+and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by
+Arches, with great Galleries well cover’d over, where we see the famous
+Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation
+of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there
+is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble,
+all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten’d to a Bull,
+by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of
+_Bœotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had
+divorc’d, because she had suffer’d herself to be debauch’d by _Jupiter_ in
+the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie
+_Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she
+was dragg’d about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess,
+turn’d her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_
+to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under
+Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor,
+from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that
+it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been
+plac’d there.
+
+The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn’d with several
+fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History
+of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass’d the _Scheld_, who is represented as
+crown’d by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain’d to his Feet.
+There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches,
+and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by
+_Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and
+_Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the
+memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference
+with that Pope’s _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many
+fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest
+Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout
+by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very
+great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In
+fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that
+the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all
+taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. ’Tis
+pity that ’tis not finish’d, for in Truth it wou’d be a fine Piece of
+Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_’s _Miracles_,
+which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for
+their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate,
+and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their
+Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of
+their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don’t live to finish;
+and ’tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles,
+either because they don’t care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left
+them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the
+Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good
+for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a
+mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the
+Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that
+they are swallow’d up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the
+Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to
+decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch’d off on
+sudden by Winter.
+
+_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind
+the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden
+of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River,
+in the Quarter call’d _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the
+Duke of _Parma_ wou’d have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in
+his own Capital.
+
+The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is
+larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The
+Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms
+a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great
+Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_,
+who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of
+Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection.
+The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really
+contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give
+you all the Particulars, I shou’d never have done. That which very much
+disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might
+easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses
+which belong to it.
+
+The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the
+Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now
+actually carrying up, is finish’d. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner
+of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the
+richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who
+died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in
+Specie. The Prince is a very good Œconomist, has no Children, and being
+not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife,
+his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_
+Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted;
+and though they have been as often reconcil’d, either by their Kindred, or
+by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been
+assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are
+asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender
+Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as
+bad.
+
+’Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts
+(which are here call’d _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_
+XIII. curs’d them, and banish’d them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
+they were all drown’d. This Miracle being talk’d of some Days after in
+Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe
+it; for, said he, were it so, I shou’d be the most unhappy of Men! But,
+‘How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung’d headlong into the
+Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver’d from them, and that I
+shou’d still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?’ He alluded hereby to his
+Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.
+
+If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou’d die without Issue, as ’tis believ’d will
+be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
+who never yet conceiv’d, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes
+to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in
+better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_’s are the gayest People in ROME,
+and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
+many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
+Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is
+extinct, there’s not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_’s. The Head of
+this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the
+Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
+of the Pope’s Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
+Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
+and the present Emperor declar’d him his perpetual Ambassador for
+presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
+_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_’s are well-bred, affable
+and generous, and always liv’d with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
+present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
+finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
+live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because ’tis
+what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
+magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and ’tis pity but that it had
+another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
+oblig’d for it to any of St. _Peter_’s Successors. Instead of giving you
+the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
+richly furnish’d. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
+extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
+are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir’d by all
+_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
+support an Arch at each End, whereby there’s an Entrance to the Salon,
+which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
+Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
+Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
+Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
+gain’d in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the
+Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands,
+and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
+the Walls which are fac’d with Marble, ’tis impossible to see any thing
+more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never
+saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
+Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable’s presenting
+the Hackney to the Pope.
+
+This Ceremony was perform’d not many Days ago; but as it cou’d not be on
+St. _Peter_’s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_’s See, it
+was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the
+Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
+Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
+and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
+When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
+Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton’d the Vespers, which
+were continu’d by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope’s
+grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany’d the Holy Father, set
+out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable’s Palace. They
+were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse
+and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the
+Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
+Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
+then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The
+Princes march’d alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
+Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow’d by the Hackney, which is
+a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
+the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider’d with Silver, trailing on
+the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
+Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
+Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
+came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by
+thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
+Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_,
+the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
+The feudatory Prelates follow’d him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
+riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos’d by fifteen of the
+Constable’s magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
+When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
+was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
+kneeling before him, said to him, ‘That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of
+the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg’d him to deliver to his
+Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
+his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow’d to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
+_Naples_.’ This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which
+the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, ‘We accept the
+Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor
+and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
+Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
+his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
+Father, _&c._’ When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
+the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
+present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
+Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the
+Church, and return’d with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_.
+The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor’s
+Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable’s chief
+Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
+Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk’d in a Body together, without any
+Distinction, but the Coaches follow’d alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of
+the Cardinal’s, and one of the Constable’s. His Eminency had ten, which
+were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv’d at the
+Constable’s Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
+Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the
+Cardinals. They were plentifully regal’d with Refreshments, and a fine
+Firework was play’d off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
+manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
+Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro’ the
+principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador’s Palace was
+illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear’d, as
+they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
+Ceremony ended, and ’tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
+assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                         _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._
+
+Tho’ I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can’t
+forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_.
+There’s an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
+elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
+the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
+Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
+Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
+Monarch. ’Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
+Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
+Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
+Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
+Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the
+_Borghese_ Family, and tho’ no more than an Advocate at first, rais’d his
+Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_.
+
+The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
+thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
+Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done
+more than this. The Prince’s Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
+stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there’s a
+second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
+Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
+populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
+Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built
+by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by
+Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope’s Nephews. Before the Art of
+Gardening was introduc’d into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of
+_Italy_ were reckon’d the finest in the World; but now-a-days ’tis
+otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ’d before) a Man is an
+_Italian_, and never pass’d the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon
+all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and
+_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou’d not have you think that I find no
+Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
+Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form’d, tho’
+they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz’d at the Magnificence of those
+who made those Gardens, and am pleas’d to find by what they have done,
+that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
+short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
+see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
+them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
+Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V.
+and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are
+kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all
+this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm’d, as the Gardens of
+_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries.
+
+_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. ’Tis a large
+Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments
+are spacious, but very sorrily furnish’d. The House at the Vineyard
+_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
+which ’tis adorn’d. ’Tis almost intirely cover’d on the Outside with
+stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, ’tis a Pleasure to
+see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
+Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
+_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
+that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho’ very ill furnish’d, are
+adorn’d with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou’d admire
+_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe
+representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos’d into a Laurel, at the
+Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
+Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
+representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
+Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
+_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_,
+as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
+and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
+curious Workmanship. ’Tis said that this Statue was discover’d under the
+Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the
+Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus’d it to be erected; and really
+’tis so curious a Piece, that it wou’d have been pity it had not been
+found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
+Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou’d never have done; for no King in
+the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
+a Treasure that is inestimable.
+
+I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
+and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has
+taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was
+perform’d on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the
+Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of
+the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o’Clock, as they call it
+here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
+Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
+Way, follow’d by several close Carriages cover’d with Tapestry embroider’d
+with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong’d: Then came the
+Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
+follow’d by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
+_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress’d
+in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope’s Equerries in red Robes, his
+Holiness’s Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
+went before two Portmanteaus trimm’d with red Velvet lac’d with Gold,
+which were carry’d on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
+in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
+for _Naples_. The Pope’s Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
+and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover’d with red Velvet trimm’d with
+Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope’s Stables follow’d by two Prickers. At
+some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without
+Distinction of Rank, all dress’d in black Coats and Mantles, with great
+Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope’s Mace-bearers, in
+long-sleev’d purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
+solid Silver, and follow’d by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
+red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
+Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope’s Trumpeters
+dress’d in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
+red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call’d _Camerieri extra muros_. The
+Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
+Advocates dress’d in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
+The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
+Robes. The four last carry’d on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
+are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in
+Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
+follow’d by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
+Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
+Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
+Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
+came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del
+Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
+the Pope’s Cross-bearer, who carry’d the Image of our Saviour turn’d
+towards the Holy Father, and walk’d between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
+Then the Holy Father appear’d in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin’d with
+red Velvet embroider’d and lac’d with Gold, carry’d by two white Mules.
+Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
+red and silver’d Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin’d with white and silver
+Mohair, and inrich’d with broad Gold Lace, encompass’d the Litter, as did
+the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
+trimm’d with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
+hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm’d with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
+Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm’d with
+Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
+Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider’d
+with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin’d with Ermin, a
+Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
+the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
+some small Distance follow’d fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
+dress’d in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp’d over their Eyes,
+with their red Hats. They were follow’d by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a
+Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
+assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
+the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
+Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
+clos’d by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
+Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of
+the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
+of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider’d with Gold. They had on their Hats
+great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry’d their Spears and
+Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
+of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
+adorn’d with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
+they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
+Taffeta, such as I have seen carry’d by the _Spahis_.
+
+All this Cavalcade pass’d thro’ the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
+with Tapestry of red Damask lac’d with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
+_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv’d the Pope, and presented him the
+Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
+answer’d by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro’ which the Train
+pass’d, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
+the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig’d to erect
+every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.
+From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
+Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish’d by the _Jews_, who
+had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
+
+When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv’d at the Gate of St.
+_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of
+the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
+being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to
+the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
+being there seated, array’d himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on
+the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
+Cardinal Arch-priest harangu’d him in the Name of the Chapter, and
+presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
+of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn’d with Flowers. During this, the
+Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
+his Throne, advanc’d towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
+Arch-priest perfum’d him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
+to him, which the Pope dipp’d into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
+the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
+was carry’d thro’ the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
+the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
+Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac’d himself upon a
+Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
+receiv’d the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
+Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
+assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
+and took it off, just as the Service requir’d. Then his Holiness descended
+from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry’d to
+the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play’d Anthems, and the
+Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv’d at the
+great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
+ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
+all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter’d among
+the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
+carry’d in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
+_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return’d to the Palace of
+_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.
+
+This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
+magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav’d of them, than
+they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
+Masquerade which I don’t think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS
+CHRIST. All the Laity dress’d in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
+mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
+Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
+to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
+all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
+in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
+Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
+Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_
+upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
+
+The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
+as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
+for some Days before, had almost spoil’d it. Besides this, the Order of
+the Procession was very ill observ’d; for there were sometimes Intervals
+of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_
+Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
+getting along. ’Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
+if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
+at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
+me again before Lent. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, March 10, 1731_
+
+I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
+sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
+for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz’d upon that Score
+from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
+the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
+obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
+Countries, and all Courts are alike.
+
+Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who
+officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then
+indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order’d me to
+be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according
+to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair,
+ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red
+Velvet. As I enter’d the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which
+I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach’d
+him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel’d again, and
+receiv’d the Pope’s Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming
+up close to the Pope, I kneel’d again, and receiv’d a third Blessing, all
+which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they
+consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one
+Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask’d me many Questions,
+and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was
+extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so
+long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the
+Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope’s Countenance change; his Smiles
+were turn’d into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather
+have my Room than my Company. But being appriz’d beforehand, that his
+Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without
+omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber,
+I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at
+Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all
+that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon;
+for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun’d, and therefore I will
+gratify him in his own Way.
+
+Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than
+I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the
+Pope’s Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago,
+went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv’d in the same manner
+as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in
+the Antichamber, and without being oblig’d to leave his Sword and Hat, as
+those of his Retinue were, he was introduc’d by the _Major Domo_ to the
+Pope, who receiv’d him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as
+he enter’d, nor did the Pope, who ask’d him several Questions, and was
+inform’d that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he
+withdrew, the Prince desir’d the Pope, that he would give him leave to
+introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the
+last Degree, neither kneel’d, nor kiss’d the Pope’s Foot. At _Geneva_
+indeed he deserv’d to have his Statue erected, tho’ here his Politeness
+was call’d in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was
+charm’d with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five
+Months here, and liv’d handsomely. He apply’d himself to the Knowledge of
+Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho’ not so
+large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover’d a very
+great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_
+if all its Princes were like him.
+
+The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those
+unfortunate Princes who are here call’d the King and Queen of _England_.
+Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot
+they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body
+can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the
+Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him
+easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis
+_Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that
+are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court,
+since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord
+_Inverness_, retir’d to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the
+Education of the young Princes, who are here styl’d the Prince of _Wales_,
+and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall
+see.
+
+The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style
+of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never
+goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the
+Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the
+Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When
+the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool;
+but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to
+do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem’d to be more embroil’d with
+the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go
+to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict
+Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_.
+When the eldest Prince, who is here styl’d the Prince of _Wales_, goes to
+wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has
+a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.
+As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet
+settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.
+
+_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I
+may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is
+prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II.
+his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far
+from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would
+indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch’d by the
+Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_,
+_alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If
+one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely
+attach’d to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a
+Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be
+educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister
+preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is
+extremely reserv’d at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but
+it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very
+courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table,
+and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.
+
+His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv’d with what
+is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are
+seated at the King’s Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits
+himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his
+Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His
+Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally
+upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince’s Time is regularly divided; he
+rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon,
+when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours
+at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint’s Day, when he goes
+to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without
+ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at
+Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his
+Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o’Clock he goes to
+Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every
+Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the
+Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.
+
+The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen;
+and tho’ not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is
+infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish’d
+Lady, and never was there a better natur’d Person with more Humility; she
+is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in
+Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of
+ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good,
+and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho’ she is heartily
+attach’d to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ
+from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and
+good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it
+her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed,
+Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a
+Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory,
+and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_
+so well, that ’tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is
+most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I
+had the Honour to approach, I don’t know one more deserving of the
+Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that
+Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so
+strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her
+wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.
+
+You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by
+consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and
+Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of
+_Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at
+_Inspruck_, when she pass’d that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the
+Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her
+Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.
+_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could
+procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany’d by
+Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who
+carry’d his Wife with him. They arriv’d accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a
+great Retinue, and there they pass’d for People of Consequence: They
+contriv’d so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to
+give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was
+repair’d: They introduc’d themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a
+Nun whom they brib’d to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix’d on
+the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was
+Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess’s Stature to pass
+thro’ the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner’s Bed, who
+for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl’s
+Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass’d thro’ her
+Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the
+Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to
+apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow’d a
+great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen’d to step into a
+Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig’d to
+leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From
+thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet
+and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr.
+_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the
+Coach, and _Misset_ stay’d two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether
+any Discovery was made of the Princess’s Flight. The Silence of the Guard
+was such, that he believ’d they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he
+rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to
+watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for
+early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and
+the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the
+great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend
+the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he
+travell’d a little way with him, and resolv’d either to make him drunk, or
+to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a
+certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their
+Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the
+Messenger; and when he found him doz’d, he took away his Dispatches, and
+went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three
+Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy
+See.
+
+Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a
+Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony
+was accordingly perform’d there without much Pomp, and the Princess set
+out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany’d by all the
+_English_ of both Sexes that were at ROME of the Pretender’s Party, went
+in that Prince’s Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus
+did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv’d
+with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join’d by
+her Husband[5].
+
+While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you
+of a certain Prophecy in every body’s Mouth here, which was said to be
+found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734,
+the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of
+_Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this
+as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:
+
+      Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,
+      Et Antonius Veni Creator,
+      Et Joannes Baptista cænabit,
+      Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III.
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      _When Easter falls on St. Mark’s Day,
+      And Whitsunday on St. Antony’s of Padua,
+      And when St. John the Baptist’s is a Sacrament Day,
+      Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._
+
+Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was
+to me very tiresom, tho’ it lasted here, according to an establish’d
+Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o’Clock in the
+Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on
+Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things,
+and the latter throw Meslin in one another’s Eyes by Handfuls; but the
+best on’t is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body
+is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even
+in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make
+them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in
+open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn’d with Plumes of
+Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the
+Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del
+Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of
+Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer’d to run loose
+without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the
+_Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro’ the Shouts and Cries of
+the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the
+Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for
+his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at
+Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the
+Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World.
+
+But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where
+to be parallell’d for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now
+be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb’d this Winter for the Hire of the
+Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus’d it to be
+furnish’d by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix’d for the Ball, they
+invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of
+appearing there mask’d, provided they made themselves known at the Door:
+All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several
+Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design’d
+for the principal Nobility was encompass’d with Forms, and the Place for
+the Dancers was an oval Nook rail’d in. A Gentleman of the Company that
+gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title
+of Master of the Hall, and ’twas he that call’d out the Dancers. All the
+Ladies were mask’d at this Ball, which was call’d a Feast, but I know not
+why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.
+The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have
+been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir’d, and in
+such Danger of being press’d to Death, that I don’t care to go again; for
+which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste.
+
+Neither am I very well reconcil’d to their Plays, of which indeed here are
+none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two
+Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there’s
+but one that’s good for any thing, and that’s the Ladies Theatre, commonly
+call’d the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because ’twas built by Order of one Count
+_Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in
+it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room
+look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage
+is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don’t shift the
+Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the
+whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the
+three principal Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are
+horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most
+part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can’t imagine any
+thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a
+ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here,
+that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that
+the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_.
+There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures,
+who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho’ they have neither
+Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best
+Actresses are elsewhere. Tho’ I am passionately fond of the _Italian_
+Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see
+those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such
+Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no
+Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an
+Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very
+scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that
+have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the
+Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; _viz.
+Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison’d at _Naples_; but there are
+still remaining M. _Hass_, commonly call’d the _Saxon_, and _Signior
+Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous
+_Signiora Faustina_.
+
+While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to
+omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform’d on the
+four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being
+then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring.
+The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses
+are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a
+Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which
+sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while
+the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a
+thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the
+Square, bawl’d out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho’ very
+few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and ’twas not his
+Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces
+from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions
+of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit
+had.
+
+Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never
+pass’d the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell
+you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_
+don’t know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where
+reigns the greatest Freedom, there’s always an Air of Constraint, which
+one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them,
+insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget
+Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know
+how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be
+acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats,
+where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where
+they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and
+I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not
+the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don’t set it off
+to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to
+me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their
+Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for
+us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of
+Cookery.
+
+I know not whether ’tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of
+Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or
+Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more
+melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in
+particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of
+Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself,
+that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can’t be of that
+Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so
+contrary to ours. At my Age, ’tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste
+and Fashion of Living: Those of ROME don’t agree with me, and I foresee
+they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I
+promise you, I’ll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my
+Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.
+
+The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they
+do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of
+which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return
+home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After
+their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and
+after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they
+dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from
+thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there’s a Walk, which is very sorrily pav’d,
+between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there’s no Air, but Dust
+enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_
+repairs to the Square, or Place _d’Espagne_, where I think I have already
+told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their
+Visits of Ceremony: At Two o’Clock at Night, which in the long Days in
+Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _Assemblies_. These may be
+divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private
+Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only
+converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the
+Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of
+all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.
+
+The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of
+Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope’s Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the
+Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there
+is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain’d. The
+Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all
+the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand
+Assembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the
+most part well-dress’d, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbés,
+lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and
+salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except
+Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises;
+and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which
+she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak
+this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they
+don’t care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I
+travell’d hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_
+Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer’d
+me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+
+Language_. She then turn’d about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking
+Abbé come in, who talk’d with her in private all the Evening, and probably
+in such a Language as she understood.
+
+After the Levee they fall to play, but ’tis at such Games as we
+_Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_,
+_Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take
+it to be like the Languages, which ’tis difficult to be Master of, unless
+People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man’s
+whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with
+99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes,
+Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.
+During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all
+Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the
+Money for the Cards.
+
+The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have
+not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a
+Dozen _Petits-colets_, who really are the _Petits-Maîtres_ of this Place,
+supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these
+Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abbé to put in a Word, because
+they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of
+Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. ’Tis
+true, that the Abbé wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and
+as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so
+that when you see a _Petit-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you
+must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even
+Clergymen.
+
+The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at
+the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure
+and Freedom; yet ’tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the
+Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter
+a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles,
+so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou’d be at a Loss where
+to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles
+are plac’d in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion’d Stands of
+the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts
+with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if
+those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but
+whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill
+Fortune plac’d him, because it wou’d be a Crime even to move a Chair; so
+that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse
+with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a
+black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don’t accept it every
+time ’tis offer’d; for if I did, my Stomach wou’d have long ago been
+congeal’d like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring
+Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress’d in Black; the
+two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes
+the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you
+that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.
+Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises
+his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin’d to
+what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary
+Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or
+Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And
+after having thoroughly canvass’d these momentous Subjects till Midnight,
+all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.
+
+Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes
+his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman
+indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion
+of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture,
+and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has
+digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing
+more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.
+There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of
+the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers
+in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.
+All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon
+Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are
+Masters of it in its Purity.
+
+A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the
+good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say
+it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony,
+because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there’s scarce one of them
+in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this,
+one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave
+at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they
+then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a
+Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in
+their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that
+puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in
+_France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho’ an _Italian_, was in the _French_
+Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told
+me one Day that he observ’d I follow’d the _French_ Fashion strictly: I
+ask’d him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day.
+Nevertheless I wou’d not have you think that this Slovenliness is general;
+for there are People as much perfum’d here as elsewhere; and you may take
+my Word for it, that a _Petit-Maître_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the
+pertest _French Petit-Maître_. Indeed they are more rare here than
+elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before
+they are twenty Years of Age.
+
+But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you
+ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains
+have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all
+Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest
+_Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the
+same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth,
+where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus’d
+of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there’s no Nation where
+the Ladies have more Freedom than here. ’Tis possible that some of the
+Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as
+to the People of Quality, I don’t think them any more liable to that
+Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou’d say as much in their
+Vindication as to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the
+Fact is too well known, and ’tis the original Sin of almost all the
+_Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest;
+and ’tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as
+they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other
+Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort
+drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus’d also of
+being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry’d out
+against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some
+that have receiv’d Affronts, so good-natur’d as to forget them. ’Tis true,
+that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is
+owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder
+for the first Time is condemn’d to the Gallies; tho’ in some Cases indeed
+he is only banish’d from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then,
+after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME.
+They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally
+compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.
+If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches
+were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou’d have more Crimes perhaps
+committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and
+done, we don’t hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of
+Robberies; and tho’ there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls
+here in the Night, I shou’d make no Scruple to go from one End of the City
+to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou’d be most afraid of
+wou’d be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind
+are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among
+Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such
+an Accident to any Person of Note.
+
+I happen’d not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my
+Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven
+o’Clock, ’twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People
+stirring in the Streets. I pass’d thro’ the Street _del Corso_, and just
+as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal
+_Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance
+behind the other: As the former brush’d close by me, I heard a Pistol go
+off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from
+the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming;
+but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went
+very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after;
+at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50
+Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But ’tis
+really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the
+Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou’d serve as a Place of Retreat for
+a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour’s Blood. This is an
+Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient
+Privileges. In the last Pope’s Time, _Alberoni_ propos’d to the other
+Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the
+Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he
+said with Indignation, ‘Since ’tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain
+wou’d take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge
+to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
+Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to
+Justice, I wou’d do all in my Power to promote his Escape.’ ’Tis said,
+that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard
+to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture
+at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges
+of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People,
+and the Homage of the Mob.
+
+Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so
+establish’d, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better
+serv’d, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this
+Purpose there’s a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims
+is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it
+almost every Day, who are there lodg’d and taken care of for three Days,
+and then dismiss’d with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of
+the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv’d, the Men by the Cardinals, and
+the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.
+
+Divine Service is perform’d with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but
+particularly in the Pope’s Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all
+the Ceremonies therein observ’d, it wou’d take me up another Day. I will,
+in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy
+Week, which, tho’ I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better
+enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, June 15, 1731._
+
+Tho’ the first Promotion of Cardinals by _Clement_ XII. was made the Close
+of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with,
+that I deferr’d giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This
+Promotion was made in Favour of three _Nuncios_, (who, by the way, never
+quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean
+the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_, and _Spain_, and Signior _Ruspoli_,
+the Pope’s Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. his Father having obtain’d it for him of
+Cardinal _Coscia_, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being
+appriz’d of the Bargain, which his Father had made with _Coscia_, he went
+to _Corsini_, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father’s Friend
+and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass’d betwixt his Father and
+_Coscia_, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou’d
+never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope’s mere Good-will.
+Cardinal _Corsini_ being charm’d with the generous Temper of young
+_Ruspoli_, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in
+St. _Peter_’s Throne, he has preferr’d _Ruspoli_ over the Heads of many
+Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.
+
+This Promotion was made at _Monte-Cavallo_. The Pope had declar’d in a
+private Consistory, that he was resolv’d to make five Cardinals, _viz._
+the three _Nuncios_ above-mention’d, Signior _Ruspoli_, and a Fifth, whom
+he reserv’d in _Petto_. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a
+Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch’d Couriers to the _Nuncios_ to carry
+them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint _Ruspoli_
+of what had pass’d. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the
+Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the
+Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank’d him for the Favour he had just done
+him, and then return’d to his Palace, where he receiv’d the Compliments of
+all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior
+_Neri Corsini_, _Clement_ XIIth’s Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had
+reserv’d in _Petto_. On the _Thursday_ following there was a public
+Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according
+to the Ceremonial, been oblig’d to keep his Chamber, and to be dress’d in
+Purple, receiv’d the Hat from the Pope’s own Hand. His Eminency repair’d
+in the Morning to the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_, while the Cardinals were
+assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join’d in the Chapel by
+these Cardinals, _viz. Barberini_, who represented the Dean of the Sacred
+College; _Ottoboni_, the Great Chancellor; _Albano_, the Chamberlain; and
+_Cienfuegos_, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great
+Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the
+usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return’d from thence into the
+Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel,
+with his _Caudataire_, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies.
+During this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by
+kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As
+he enter’d within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated
+at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle
+of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on
+his Knees, and kiss’d both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who
+rais’d him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went
+afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their
+Seniority, and then return’d and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A
+Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on
+his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies.
+The new Cardinal now kiss’d the Holy Father’s Foot and Hand a second Time;
+and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither
+_Ruspoli_ followed him, and after having thank’d him for the Honour he had
+done him, went and rejoin’d the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory.
+This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope’s Music playing before
+them, to the Chapel, where _Te Deum_ was sung; after which the Cardinals
+went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call’d the _Royal
+Hall_. There they form’d a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank’d his
+Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a
+Brother, and then they all retir’d. When _Ruspoli_ came home, he there
+found a Gentleman of the Pope’s Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat,
+which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When
+Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair’d with a great Train to St.
+_Peter_’s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the
+Pretender to the Crown of _England_, and to the Princess his Wife; he also
+made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited
+the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.
+
+A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which
+he both shut and open’d the Mouth of Cardinal _Ruspoli_. At the former
+Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father’s Feet, his Holiness
+laid two Fingers on the Cardinal’s Mouth, and strictly injoin’d him not so
+reveal to any body what shou’d pass in the Consistories at which he shou’d
+be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv’d the Cardinals
+of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter’d the
+Conclave before the Pope had open’d their Mouths; which might sometimes be
+the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days
+between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But
+_Pius_ V. declar’d by a Bull which he publish’d the 26th of _January_
+1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou’d not
+exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.
+
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_ being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took
+his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc’d
+the Words _extra omnes_, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies,
+and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory
+was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter’d
+the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope’s
+Feet, who open’d his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and
+Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to
+bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring
+adorn’d with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a
+Custom establish’d by _Gregory_ XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold
+to the College _de propaganda fide_. With that the Ceremony ended. In the
+Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign
+Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were
+illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.
+
+There are, as I have observ’d, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public,
+the other Secret, and they are both notify’d to the Cardinals by two of
+the Pope’s Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father
+himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels
+to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They
+wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the
+Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, _Eminentissime Domine, Crastina
+Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum_, or,
+_fiat Processio._ They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not
+let them wait a Moment; but are oblig’d to admit them, in what Plight
+soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their
+Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find
+a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal
+chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.
+
+This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope’s Council of State, wherein
+he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs
+of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to
+each Cardinal, the Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the
+Palls conferr’d upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of
+in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin’d, as is, in short,
+every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in
+Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call’d the Secret
+Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors
+that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new
+Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as
+he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In
+this Public Consistory, the Pope’s Throne is rais’d much higher than
+ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers
+plac’d at their Feet. The Constable _Colonna_, in Quality of first Prince
+of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour
+that he yields to none but the Pope’s Nephews. The Ambassador of
+_Bologna_, and the Conservators of ROME, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are
+plac’d on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope’s great
+Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right,
+the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.
+
+When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in _Petto_, tho’ he names him
+not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all
+those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the
+Pope dies ere he has declar’d him in Public, ’tis sufficient if the Holy
+Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he
+declar’d a Cardinal in _Petto_, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest
+that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had
+nominated in _Petto_.
+
+The Dignity of a Cardinal is look’d upon here as the greatest Thing in the
+World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates
+of this Court don’t form to obtain it; and a Family at ROME never thinks
+its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so
+true, that one of the first Princes in ROME, who did not want a Hat in his
+Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal
+_Coscia_, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But ’tis mere Ambition
+only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those
+purple Gentry lead, is, as ’tis here said, the most melancholy in the
+World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are
+continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig’d almost every Day to
+be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and
+receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the
+taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds
+his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. ’Tis
+true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify
+such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational
+Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is
+but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their
+Grandeur is a Burden.
+
+When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call’d _in
+Fiochi_, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes
+foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an
+Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho’ they are Princes, must
+stop for him; and when two Cardinals meet one another riding out after
+this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment
+each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus
+ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress’d in long Robes of Scarlet,
+except in Time of _Lent_, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is
+that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and ’tis in this Habit
+they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the
+Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person
+has been once introduc’d to them, is to attend in their Train, when they
+go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal,
+when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most
+honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a
+Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.
+
+As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of
+the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can’t see wherein it
+consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics
+are generally a _Maître de Chambre_, an Officer who they say is tantamount
+to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one
+or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many _Valets de Chambre_; eight
+or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their
+Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they
+commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the
+Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat
+alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and
+of these, not one does it at present, but the Cardinal _de Polignac_, the
+Minister[7] of _France_: For the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, the Emperor’s
+Ambassador, has retrench’d his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has
+the Cardinal[8] _Bentivoglio_, on account of his Infirmities.
+
+I can’t help thinking there’s much more Reason to exclaim against the
+ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown’d Heads,
+and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho’ a Cardinal is often but an ordinary
+Man at first, only rais’d to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of
+the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last
+Pontificate, the Cardinals _Fini_ and _Coscia_. That such Cardinals shou’d
+presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of _Bavaria_, or of
+_Cologne_, of a Duke of _Lorain_, and in short, of every Prince
+whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College,
+I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv’d such a
+high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of
+the Princes of _Italy_, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a
+Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency
+in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of _Italy_. Our Princes on the
+other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much
+devoted to the Holy See, as the _Italian_ Princes are; yet they don’t pay
+this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We
+have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there
+are very few of ’em that wou’d refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of
+the Empire.
+
+When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the
+Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience,
+where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after
+having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal
+that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When
+the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a
+Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one
+another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there’s a great
+Air of Constraint.
+
+The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope’s
+Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are
+distinguish’d into three Orders, _viz._ Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty
+Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix’d by Pope _Sixtus_ the
+Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl’d Dean of the Sacred College. He
+that is so now is Cardinal _Pignatelli_, Archbishop of _Naples_. This
+Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl’d
+_Chiefs of the Order_; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving
+Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical
+State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. _Innocent_ the IVth, while the
+Council was held at _Lyons_, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou’d be
+red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the
+Liberties of the Church. _Boniface_ the VIIIth order’d that they shou’d
+wear scarlet Robes. _Paul_ III. requir’d that their Bonnets shou’d be of
+the same Colour; and _Urban_ the VIIIth granted them the Title of
+Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors
+of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of _Malta_. The Council of _Trent_
+own’d it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of
+Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the
+Kindred of the reigning Pope, the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_ and
+_Spain_, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine,
+many of the Pope’s Great Officers.
+
+There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat.
+The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal _Ardicinio_; but Pope
+_Innocent_ VIII. refus’d to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the
+Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be
+depriv’d of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal _Borgia_
+resign’d his Dignity to _Alexander_ VI. The Cardinal _Henry_ of _Portugal_
+quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King
+_Don Sebastian_. After him, _Ferdinand de Medicis_, upon the Death of his
+Brother _Francis de Medicis_, without Issue Male, preferr’d the
+Sovereignty of _Tuscany_ to the red Hat, which he restor’d to Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr’d
+an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly
+Cardinal _Maurice_ of _Savoy_, _Ferdinand_ and _Vincent Gonzague_,
+_Francis_ of _Lorain_, _Camillus Pamphili_, _John Casimir_ of _Poland_;
+and _Gabriel Filippuci_ of _Macerata_, so lately as in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the
+Pope’s Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it
+must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs
+wou’d be oblig’d to pay, if he was dead.
+
+There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly
+honour one or other of the Pope’s Family with it who advanc’d them to the
+Purple; which is what they here call _Restitution_; and when they omit
+this Piece of Respect, they are accus’d of Ingratitude. _Clement_ XII. has
+not yet made this _Restitution_ to the _Albano_[10] Family, tho’ he has
+promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer
+that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which
+he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the _Albani_,
+because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them,
+that he wou’d take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The
+_Albani_ were oblig’d to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not
+give them much for the Hat they are like to have of _Clement_ XII. for you
+are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is
+afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat
+vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion,
+and then to satisfy the _Albani_.
+
+The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they
+deny it. Be this as it will, there’s hardly an Instance that the Popes
+ever exercis’d this Act of Authority. _Clement_ XI. had an Intention
+indeed to haue depriv’d Cardinal _Alberoni_ of his Hat, because when the
+Cardinal was the Minister of _Spain_, he employ’d that Money against the
+Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the
+War against the _Turks_. But _Clement_ XI. met with so much Opposition
+from the Sacred College, that he cou’d not accomplish it, and died.
+Whether _Clement_ XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be
+able to deprive _Coscia_ of his Hat, which is what he seems to be very
+much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great
+many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal _Coscia_ is of the
+Purple, are not willing that he shou’d serve as an Example for the future.
+The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho’ it
+has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc’d. Cardinal
+_Coscia_ is retir’d to _Naples_. He has been very much blam’d for quitting
+ROME, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur’d me that
+he might have stay’d here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been
+the unfortunate Cardinal _Coscia_, I wou’d have retir’d, but not in the
+Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that
+he is now, they shou’d cite me long enough before I wou’d be seen at ROME;
+and I think, whoever advis’d him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11].
+
+You know that immediately after the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. the
+Populace ran to _Coscia_’s Palace, plunder’d it, and wou’d have torn the
+Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap’d by a Back-door; after
+which, he disguis’d himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come
+back again, or else he shou’d have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues,
+whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his
+Archbishoprick of _Benevento_, after the Election of the new Pope; but he
+did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and
+afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten’d him with
+the Castle of _St. Angelo_; whereupon he was frighten’d, and march’d out
+of the Country; which is charg’d upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. of the _Pamphili_ Family, publish’d the 19th of _February_,
+1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the
+Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the
+Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon’d three times in the Space of
+fifteen Months, _viz._ once at the End of each six Months, and the last
+Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the
+Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv’d of
+the Hat. _Coscia_ has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem
+inclin’d to return, tho’ his Acquaintance don’t stick to affirm that he
+will. Mean time, he has been depriv’d of the Archbishoprick of
+_Benevento_, which the Pope has conferr’d on[12] M. _Doria_, the first
+Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal _Coscia_
+complain’d of it bitterly, tho’ to no manner of Purpose. I question
+whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho’ the Pope were
+to give him his Passport: And really, what happen’d to M. _Targa_, his
+Brother, is enough to deter him; for this _Prelate_ coming to _Venice_,
+after he had been at _Vienna_, soliciting the Emperor’s Protection for
+himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order’d him to return to ROME;
+which, after having desir’d, and obtain’d Promise of a Safeguard for his
+Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two
+Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not
+to stir out of it without his Leave. _Targa_ yields Obedience, and the
+Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all
+this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry’d him off to the
+Castle of _St. Angelo_; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope
+intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin’d, and can speak
+to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his
+Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the
+Holy See, we hear of nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men,
+or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others
+suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior _Sardini_, who was
+impeach’d of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King
+of _Sardinia_, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination
+to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was
+arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of
+_St. Angelo_, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days
+before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz’d, which he desir’d to
+have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus’d. Some
+Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify
+himself, if he cou’d; to which _Sardini_ made Answer, That he had nothing
+to say; that the Pope shou’d be his Judge, and Cardinal _Corsini_, his
+Holiness’s Nephew, shou’d be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in
+no stead; he is still in Prison, and ’tis said, that the Pope will either
+behead or pardon him.
+
+Some time ago Cardinal _Ottoboni_ made Interest for one _Nocera_, a Canon,
+who was in Trouble also upon _Sardini_’s Account; and he desir’d the Pope
+that he wou’d please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person
+of _Nocera_, who was retir’d to a Sanctuary at _Albano_. The Pope made
+Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he cou’d not grant him his
+Request; but that he wou’d not charge his Conference with the Sin of
+having suffer’d Iniquity to pass with Impunity. ‘We are old, _said the
+Holy Father_; and our Age tells us, that it can’t be long before we shall
+appear at God’s Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that
+we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if
+we don’t let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether
+we shall live till To-morrow?’ ‘Your Holiness, _reply’d the Cardinal_,
+ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great
+Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the
+other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of
+Justice, and ’tis to be hop’d, that he will also permit you to run that of
+Mercy.’
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had
+from Cardinal _Imperiali_, who has had the Purple so long, that he is
+actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the
+Ecclesiastical State without the Pope’s Leave, he told me, That _Innocent_
+X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal _Astalli_,
+his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to
+all the Rout was this: After the _Portuguese_ had shook off the Yoke of
+the _Spaniards_, and restor’d the _Braganza_ Family to the Throne, the
+King of _Spain_, who always took the Title of King of _Portugal_,
+pretended that ’twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and
+Benefices that became vacant in _Portugal_. The Pope was at that time in
+so much Subjection to the _Spaniards_, that this Plea of their Monarch
+perplex’d him sadly. At last he thought of extricating himself out of
+this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the
+_Portuguese_ Bishopricks, and he resolv’d to assemble one with all Speed
+for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal
+Secretary of State, and the Cardinal _Astalli_, whom he injoin’d not to
+speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be
+summon’d for the next Day, the Ambassador of _Spain_ made such an earnest
+Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The
+Minister therein told him, That he was inform’d of his Design; and at the
+same time protested against every thing that shou’d be done in the said
+Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope,
+very much incens’d that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had
+been betray’d by his Secretary of State, and he reproach’d him for it
+bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore,
+that he had not reveal’d it to the _Spaniard_; and he said moreover, That
+if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness’s Secret, it cou’d be only from
+Cardinal _Astalli_. He desir’d but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove
+his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent
+for one of the _Spanish_ Ambassador’s _Valets de Chambre_, and promis’d
+him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou’d
+search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was
+in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal _Astalli_. The _Valet
+de Chambre_ cou’d not stand the Temptation, but carry’d the fatal Letter
+to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope;
+whose Wrath was then wholly turn’d against _Astalli_, to such a Degree,
+that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him arrested
+the very next Day: But _Astalli_ disappointed him of that Pleasure,
+escap’d the same Night in a _Felucca_ from ROME, and sail’d for _Sicily_.
+Then it was that _Innocent_ X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus’d
+_Astalli_ to be summon’d, who indeed return’d to the Dominions of the Holy
+See; but he stay’d in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of _Naples_,
+where he was accompany’d by a Guard of two thousand _Spaniards_, who
+remain’d with him as long as the Pope liv’d, after whose Death _Astalli_
+return’d to ROME. I have the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, Sept. 5, 1731._
+
+Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you
+honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all
+the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected
+Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported
+to me; if I accuse wrongfully, ’tis owing to my Misinformation, or my
+Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can’t
+define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I
+will now relate them to you as they pass’d this Year.
+
+On _Palm_ Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_ to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.
+
+Upon the last _Wednesday_ in _Lent_, the Cardinals went after Dinner to
+the Pope’s Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the _Tenebræ_,
+sung by the Pope’s Voices, without being accompany’d by Instruments. ’Tis
+perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos’d, and ’tis
+so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give
+Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.
+
+The Pope being somewhat indispos’d upon _Holy Thursday_, Cardinal
+_Barberini_ officiated for him. The Cardinals repair’d in the Morning to
+the _Vatican_ in _Sixtus_’s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which
+the Cardinal _Barberini_, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in
+Mitres and white Copes, carry’d the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a
+Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into _Paul_’s Chapel, which was
+finely illuminated. There our Lord’s Body was deposited, after which the
+Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers
+Nations, dress’d in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all
+sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal _Barberini_, who
+sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and
+having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc’d some Collects, which were
+answer’d by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin,
+and went and wash’d the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which
+was carry’d by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip’d their Feet dry,
+he kiss’d them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the
+Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he
+reascended the Throne, and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up
+the _Pater-noster_, and the Music finish’d it. This done, he went with the
+Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum’d his ordinary
+Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the
+Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was
+elegantly serv’d. The Pope’s Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if
+the Pope had been well, he wou’d have done the same himself. The Cardinals
+din’d also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most
+sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of
+certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests
+Table is defray’d by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both
+Tables is order’d by the Pope’s _Major Domo_. The Cardinal’s Beaufet is
+very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that
+is better dispos’d. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with ’em;
+which, ’tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that
+happen’d to Pope _Alexander_ VI. and his Son _Cæsar Borgia_, Duke _de
+Valentinois_, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the
+Cardinal _Adrian de Cornetto_, order’d Wine that was poison’d to be serv’d
+up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said
+Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But _Cornetto_ had
+the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and _Cæsar_ suffer’d
+by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and
+calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was
+let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill’d them out each
+a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar’d, which kill’d the Pope; but
+_Cæsar_, having caus’d himself to be wrapp’d up in the Skin of a Mule,
+recover’d.
+
+After Dinner, the Cardinals return’d to _Sixtus_’s Chapel, where they
+assisted at the _Tenebræ_, and the _Miserere_. This Day’s Ceremony of
+washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes.
+We find in the History of _France_, that _Robert_ the _Pious_, he that was
+call’d King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two
+hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash’d their Feet, particularly
+upon Holy _Thursday_. So at _Vienna_, _Versailles_, in _Spain_, and at
+several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign
+Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.
+
+Upon good _Friday_ in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at
+Divine Service in _Sixtus_’s Chapel; after which, they din’d together, but
+they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope’s Chaplains read the
+Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the _Miserere_, and
+then they all went down into St. _Peter_’s Church, where, having form’d a
+Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel’d down upon Cushions of
+purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc’d the Reliques, which were held
+forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our
+Saviour’s Side was pierc’d, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of
+the Cross on which he was crucify’d.
+
+On _Saturday_ the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_.
+
+Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress’d in
+his _Pontificalibus_, was carry’d in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
+where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
+Priest. Then the Pope was carry’d to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
+Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Cœna Domini_ with an
+audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
+against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
+After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir’d from the Castles
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the
+Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
+led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
+and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
+Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the
+Saviour of the World, the Pope’s Chapel is stripp’d of all Ornaments, the
+Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
+so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.
+
+Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
+that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_’s
+of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
+Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
+Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_.
+This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes
+mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th
+Volume, that ’twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_,
+to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_’s consecrated by the Pope. And
+Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus
+Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn’d
+with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_’s in the
+first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
+Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
+their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform’d the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_
+after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_,
+which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope’s
+Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
+between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
+his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
+to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of
+Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
+the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover’d with red Damask,
+there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
+solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
+gilt, Admirably carv’d by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
+Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
+Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
+Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
+Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
+same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry’d on.
+Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
+was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
+Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp’d them into
+the Holy Water, and carry’d it to mix with the Water that was in the four
+Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
+and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
+two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and
+the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_’s in wooden Tubs,
+wash’d with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
+fill’d with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish’d them up again
+with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
+Prelates deliver’d to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
+Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
+retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
+they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_’s, which they say cost the
+Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.
+
+Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_’s with very
+great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry’d in his
+Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated
+on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform’d by the Music, one
+of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_’s in a Silver Bason,
+preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
+Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter’d the
+Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater
+Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
+venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir
+answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
+kneel’d down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
+as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope’s Throne, to whom
+he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_’s, in little Packets, wrapp’d up
+in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
+Standers-by, who receiv’d them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
+only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.
+
+There’s a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
+are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
+princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
+a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
+complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
+the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
+their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
+in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
+without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
+are pleas’d to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
+Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
+Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
+Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
+like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
+follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
+and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
+carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
+a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
+Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
+pass by.
+
+The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
+of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex’d to
+_Nepotism_ have been abolish’d, they have been oblig’d to humble
+themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
+correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope’s Nieces did not
+give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
+general were oblig’d to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
+nor did the Nieces go to any body’s House, but enjoy’d all the Honours of
+Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
+not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
+their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and
+complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho’ the Pope has
+declar’d their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
+the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
+vastly pleas’d with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
+it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.
+
+Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in
+the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach’d to
+the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
+the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the
+Nobility, but as much dislik’d by the Princes. ‘What! _said the Pope_, Do
+the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
+when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
+now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho’ I
+have declar’d my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
+old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.’
+
+I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy’d any
+solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
+Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest
+them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
+this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
+Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
+and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
+because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated
+from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
+Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
+delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
+them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
+Inferiors in Birth.
+
+Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
+their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
+no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of
+them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
+most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
+for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over,
+the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
+Compliments at meeting are set aside.
+
+The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
+their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
+a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
+they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
+Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again
+when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
+find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
+Money.
+
+The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
+Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
+who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
+five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp’d to give their
+Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
+the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp’d at the very same
+Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
+the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
+little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
+going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_
+Dutchess, who having travell’d in that manner at ROME, would fain have
+introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that
+Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
+with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
+Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.
+
+Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
+but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately
+match’d his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
+which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost
+more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and ’tis as much as a
+Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
+Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
+generally accompany’d by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
+with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
+Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
+are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
+part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
+a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
+as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his
+Service his Master _jubilées_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
+and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
+Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
+what matters it, say they, how they look?
+
+This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
+they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
+maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_
+and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
+has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
+borrow’d of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
+Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn’d up behind his Ears,
+and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon’d indecent here to
+see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon’d Prostitutes
+are always attended with a Matron.
+
+The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform’d here with very great
+Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
+the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the
+Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
+the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black.
+Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
+of the Church, dress’d in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn’d
+towards the Choir, and the Cardinal’s Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de
+Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
+Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas’d: There were an hundred great Tapers
+or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
+Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
+the Cardinals enter’d the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
+Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
+the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine,
+&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
+Corpse: The Cardinals retir’d after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos’d
+till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
+Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos’d in
+another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
+_Ruspoli_’s Corpse was expos’d in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_,
+which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de
+Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased’s
+Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, ’tis barbarous to
+oblige Relations to attend each other’s Funerals, as is the Fashion with
+us.
+
+But tho’ they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
+more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman’s Mourning is black from
+Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
+which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
+Complexion. The Pope’s Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
+nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a
+Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
+Kindred of a Pope.
+
+They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
+sooner. ’Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
+whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow’d is always done
+with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
+their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
+with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn’d
+throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
+are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
+adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
+in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play’d off in
+the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
+Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all
+Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
+Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to
+it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho’ all that they
+see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
+Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover’d
+with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There’s
+scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
+these Fireworks.
+
+The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
+the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
+extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
+It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._
+one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one
+_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three
+_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
+President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
+Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
+made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_.
+
+The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in
+partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
+and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown’d Heads[15]; tho’
+I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
+saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
+Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
+require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
+Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
+Officers; and the Provost, who is call’d the _Barrigello_, with 300
+Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
+who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
+saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
+know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
+by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
+Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
+Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major
+Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
+abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
+Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
+give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
+the condemn’d Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of
+the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
+it but to be made a Cardinal.
+
+Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend
+that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, ’tis but a poor
+Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
+ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
+Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
+styl’d Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
+Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
+to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
+between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also
+under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
+at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress’d in
+a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin’d with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
+Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope’s Chapel, and goes, like the
+Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
+Cardinal Nephew of what has pass’d at his Bar; he is then dress’d in a
+long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
+Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
+of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
+great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
+Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.
+
+Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
+Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The
+first, tho’ ’tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
+itself; the Malefactor being ty’d with his two Hands together to a Rope,
+by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
+a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
+to be hang’d, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
+Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
+Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
+Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
+Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
+_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn’d. _Here
+he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the
+Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will
+remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the
+Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
+with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him
+in the middle, and carry him thro’ several Galleries and Turnings towards
+the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
+the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
+Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time
+throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
+it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
+Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
+Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
+Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
+the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
+_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die
+willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
+the best Advice that he can.
+
+The _Italians_ generally make their _Exit_ like good Christians, but ’tis
+with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn’d to die some Years ago
+for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon _Sodom_, would not
+hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal _Banchieri_, at that time
+only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of
+God to pardon his Sins; _What!_ said the Criminal to him, _Would you have
+me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don’t
+know_, said the Cardinal, _of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit
+such a Crime; but if there are, they don’t plead guilty in the Face of
+Justice_. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to
+him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. _True_, reply’d the
+Convict, _but they are not all hang’d_.
+
+After a Criminal has confess’d, he receives the Sacraments, and the
+Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o’Clock, which is
+the Hour of Execution, he is convey’d in a Cart to the Gallows, to which
+he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they
+are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a
+Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the
+Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the
+Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and
+then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his
+Pain. After he is expir’d, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even
+in the Pope’s Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a
+Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at
+length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury’d like another
+Man.
+
+You’ll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal
+Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to
+write, so that I hope you won’t take it ill that I add no more to this. I
+am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Rome, October 10, 1731._
+
+This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from
+ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put
+to me in your last.
+
+You desire, _Sir_, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy
+Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that
+such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro’ a Perspective in all
+his Glory and Grandeur, shou’d be able to paint him? No, Sir, the
+Successors of St. _Peter_ are not like other Princes: None but such of
+their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them
+thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them
+always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell
+me, that in all Courts ’tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this,
+one may judge of Princes by their Actions. ’Tis very true, yet this gives
+us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without
+meaning either.
+
+To judge by outward Appearances, _Clement_ XII. may be rank’d among the
+greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was
+Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that
+Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt
+in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances,
+which were very much disorder’d by the Ministers of _Benedict_ XIII.
+renders him an Œconomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He has
+the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus’d of being
+more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of _Parma_, (which they give out
+here was devolv’d to the Holy See by the death of the Duke _Francis
+Farnese_) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the
+Constitution in _France_: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but
+he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews,
+whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given them
+very little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to every
+body; he liv’d magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be a
+prodigal Pope, than a _saving_ one: He was civil and affable, but not very
+ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought that
+was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent his
+Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the _Romans_,
+who had other Reasons not to be pleas’d with his Election, said he rose to
+the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet.
+
+Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is
+desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own
+Minister. But ’tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and
+he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ’d in State
+Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all
+this it were to be wish’d, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that
+he had been chose Pope in the place of _Benedict_ XIII. But ’tis the
+Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass’d
+with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: ’Tis
+pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that
+constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the
+good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho’ he has not been sixteen Months in
+the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not
+generally approv’d of. Among other coarse _Pasquinades_ that were utter’d
+upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix’d to several Gates of the
+Pontifical Palace, _Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti,
+ed un Minchione, +i. e.+ Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen
+and one Fool_. Those five Cardinals were Signior _Guadagno_, the Pope’s
+Nephew, formerly a barefooted _Carmelite_; Signior _Doria Maestro di
+Camera_, Archbishop of _Benevento_; Signior _Gentili_, a _Datary_, who had
+been formerly _Secretary of the Congregation of the Bishops, and the
+Regular Clergy_, a Post which, tho’ the very next Step to a Cardinal’s
+Cap, the Pope had made him resign for the Office of a _Datary_, which is
+but a mean Commission; Signior _Ferrayo_, and Signior _Bichi_, both
+Nuncios in _Portugal_.
+
+The last is noted for the Broils that he occasion’d between the Holy See
+and the Court of _Lisbon_: The King of _Portugal_ being disgusted with
+this Nuncio for having defrauded him of the Customs, by entring Goods upon
+his own Account, which he sold afterwards to the Prejudice of the
+_Portuguese_ Merchants, and being moreover exasperated with this Prelate
+for assuming more Authority to himself, than his Predecessors had ever
+done, demanded of _Clement_ XI. to recall him; and upon that Pope’s Death
+he repeated his Instances to _Innocent_ XIII. who at length consented to
+his Demand: But then the King, for what Cause I know not, alter’d his
+Mind, and declared he was not willing that _Bichi_ should leave his Court
+till the Term of his Nunciature was expired. And as the Pope had nominated
+M. _Ferrayo_ to relieve _Bichi_, and was obstinate for the Return of the
+latter to ROME, the King order’d his Ambassador to demand of the Pope for
+what Reason he recall’d _Bichi_; and in case the Holy Father should
+declare that it was to punish his Nuncio, He injoin’d him to say, that
+this Minister was intirely innocent of the Matters laid to his Charge in
+_Portugal_; but that if, on the contrary, the Pope should give him to
+understand, that he recall’d _Bichi_, to give him such an Office in the
+Apostolical Palace as might secure him a Cardinal’s Hat, he the Ambassador
+should then make Answer, that His _Portuguese_ Majesty was of Opinion,
+the Dignity of Nuncio at his Court ought to procure the Purple for all
+those who resided with him in that Quality; and that therefore his Majesty
+would never suffer M. _Bichi_ to depart from _Lisbon_, till he was
+declared a Cardinal.
+
+The Pope exclaimed against the King’s new Demand, repeated his Orders to
+_Bichi_ to return to ROME, and sent away M. _Ferrayo_ for _Portugal_. But
+the King would not let _Bichi_ go out of the Kingdom, nor _Ferrayo_ come
+into it; and _Bichi_ himself refus’d to obey the Holy Father, who
+threaten’d him with Excommunication, but the Prelate, being sure of the
+King’s Protection, did not much value the Apostolical Censures. The King
+in short continu’d to solicit the Hat for him strenuously; but _Innocent_
+XIII. would not hear it mention’d, alledging that it was not proper for
+him, who, in Quality of Cardinal Protector of _Portugal_, had impeach’d
+_Bichi_ at the Holy See, to advance him to the Purple. _Benedict_ XIII.
+who was of a beneficent and pacific Disposition, no sooner came to the
+Pontificate, but he wrote a Letter with his own Hand to the King of
+_Portugal_, wherein he promis’d him the Hat for _Bichi_. The Sacred
+College, when they were inform’d of the Pope’s Intentions, made smart
+Remonstrances to him, and every Cardinal in particular represented to him
+how unworthy _Bichi_ was of the Purple. Cardinal _Corsini_, the present
+Pope, was the Man that declar’d himself against that Prelate with the
+greatest Warmth; for he told the Pope, that notwithstanding his Respect
+for his Holiness, he would never consent that _Bichi_, that dishonourable,
+that faithless Man, (which were the Epithets wherewith he honour’d him)
+should be one of his Brethren. In a Word, the whole Sacred College shew’d
+so much Disgust at the Thoughts of this Promotion, that the Pope was
+oblig’d to revoke the Promise he had made to the King of _Portugal_. That
+Monarch, incensed to see himself made a Jest of by the Priests, recalled
+his Ambassador and Envoy then at ROME, and ordered his Subjects to leave
+that City, and to have nothing more to do with the Holy See. And the Pope,
+in his Turn, recalled _Ferrayo_, who still continued in _Spain_, on the
+Frontier of _Portugal_, and summoned _Bichi_ to ROME, whither at last he
+was determined to return.
+
+During this, _Benedict_ XIII. died, and _Clement_ XII. succeeding him,
+_Bichi_, who is his Kinsman, went to _Sienna_, the Place of his Birth.
+There it was that he heard of his Promotion, which was made on the 24th of
+_September_ last, but not without strong Debates in the Sacred College. A
+great number of the Cardinals put the Holy Father in mind, that he was
+formerly the most zealous Stickler against _Bichi_: And in the Consistory
+wherein the Pope propos’d him, a Cardinal gave his Opinion, that the
+Prelate might be admitted into the Sacred College in Quality of a
+Penitent, The Pope happening to say, that he knew of no other Way to come
+to an Accommodation with the King of _Portugal_, than by making _Bichi_ a
+Cardinal; one of the Cardinals made Answer, ‘I question whether the
+promoting of _Bichi_ will set us to Rights with _Portugal_; but let it
+happen as it may, ’twill be, at the worst, but one Hat more ill bestow’d.’
+
+The _Romans_ actually pine for an Accommodation with _Portugal_; for the
+Ambassadors of that Crown have always expended great Sums here, especially
+since the Accession of the present King, who has caus’d a great deal of
+Money to be laid out here in Statues, Pictures, and other Things of Value.
+’Tis reckon’d upon the whole, that the Absence of the _Portuguese_ is a
+Loss to the City of ROME of above a Million of _Roman_ Crowns in a Year.
+
+The Pope’s Nephews are like their Uncle, Men of great Sincerity, Honour
+and Probity; but whether ’tis owing to the Indolence of their Tempers, or
+to their Want of Interest with their Uncle, they serve nobody, and know
+not the Pleasure of doing Good. The Cardinal, who should naturally have
+the most Credit, is he that has the least: He is penurious to the last
+Degree[16]. Before he was made a Cardinal and Minister, People conceiv’d a
+high Idea of him; they believ’d that a Person who had travelled so much as
+he had done, and who had been many Years employ’d by the Great Duke in
+_France_, and at the Congress of _Cambray_, must needs be well versed in
+Business; therefore they apply this Verse to him,
+
+         _Tel brille au second rang, qui s’eclipse au premier._
+
+                                 i. e.
+
+   _He shines so much in the second Class, as eclipses him in the first._
+
+Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don’t look upon him as a
+Minister. He is so reserved, that ’tis quite disgusting; and when he
+grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who
+receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will
+have very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies.
+
+In the same Consistory wherein the Pope made _Bichi_ a Cardinal, the Holy
+Father talk’d a great deal about the Succession of _Parma_. He complain’d
+in general Terms of the Emperor, for arrogating to himself those
+Prerogatives relating to the Dominions of _Parma_, which were only due to
+the Holy See. He acquainted the Sacred College with every thing that he
+had done for maintaining the Rights of the Church; he said, that as soon
+as he was informed that the Duchess of _Parma_ was really not with Child,
+he ordered his _Nuncio_ at _Parma_ to take Possession of the Dominions,
+that were devolved to the Holy See by the Extinction of the Male Line of
+the _Farnese_ Family; that his _Nuncio_ had executed his Orders; but that
+_Stampa_, the Emperor’s General and Commissary, had caus’d an Edict to be
+publish’d, whereby, in the Name of the Emperor, he forbad all the Subjects
+of _Parma_ from owning any other Sovereign, but him to whom his Imperial
+Majesty shou’d give the Investiture of the Duchy. The Pope said, he was
+sorry when he heard _Stampa_ had taken that Step; but that he expected
+from the Emperor’s Justice and Piety, that he wou’d not approve of the
+Conduct of his General, and that he wou’d not do any thing contrary to the
+incontestable Claim of the Holy See to the Dominions of the _Farnese_
+Family. The Cardinals returned a very modest Answer to the Pope, thanking
+him for the Endeavours he had us’d to maintain the Rights of the Holy See,
+and praying him to continue them. The Cardinals _Cienfuegos_ and
+_Bentivoglio_, being inform’d of all the Complaints which the Pope
+intended to make in this Consistory, took care not to be there. These
+Gentlemen are extremely angry with the Emperor; ‘What! _said they_, to
+have no more Respect for the Pope and the Holy See, to invade the Estates
+of the Church, and dispose of them as he pleases, are these Actions
+becoming an Emperor, Protector of the Catholic Faith?’ Really, to hear how
+they talk, one wou’d think the Emperor had actually taken all they had
+from ’em; tho’ I am persuaded, that if he would but give them the Duchy of
+_Parma_, they wou’d consent to his being a _Jansenist_.
+
+You desire, Sir, to be inform’d of the Reception that is given here to
+Ambassadors. I shou’d have done this long before you desired it, if I had
+seen any Ambassador go to an Audience of the Pope, besides the _Maltese_,
+who has not so grand a Reception here as the Ambassadors of Crown’d Heads.
+’Twas on the second _Sunday_ in _Lent_, in the Afternoon, that the
+Ambassador of _Malta_, who has resided here six Years in Quality of
+Ambassador of that Order, made his Entry as Tributary Ambassador
+Extraordinary. This Minister, repairing without any Retinue to the
+Vineyard of Pope _Julius_, without the Gate _del Popoli_, was complimented
+there, on the Part of the Pope, by the _Major Domo_, and the oldest
+Prelate; and on the Part of the Cardinals, and principal Nobility, by
+their Gentlemen. After this, the Cavalcade was made with more Order than
+is commonly observ’d here at public Ceremonies. First came the several
+Coaches and Six of the Cardinals, Princes, and other Persons of
+Distinction, following one another without Observation of the respective
+Ranks of their Owners. Then came two of the Ambassador’s Grooms on
+Horseback, who were follow’d by four cover’d Waggons, and a Couple of
+Field Carriages, cover’d with Tapestry, that was embroidered with his
+Excellency’s Coat of Arms. Next came the Ambassador’s Master of the
+Horse, follow’d by six led Horses, two Trumpets, with the Lackeys, _Valets
+de Chambre_, Pages, and Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador, all on
+Horseback. These were follow’d by the chief Lackeys of the Cardinals
+riding upon Mules, and carrying their Master’s red Hats flung over their
+Shoulders; and after these came the Cardinals Gentlemen, who were follow’d
+by a Detachment of Light-horse. The Chamberlains of Honour follow’d riding
+upon Mules. The Knights of _Malta_ on Horseback rode just before the
+Ambassador, who was supported by the _Major Domo_, and Signior _Colonna_,
+the oldest Prelate. His Excellency was preceded by twelve running Footmen
+in his Livery, and he walked in the Middle of a Couple of Files of the
+hundred _Switzers_ of the Pope’s Guard. Three of the Ambassador’s Coaches
+and Six clos’d the March. The whole Train pass’d thro’ the chief Streets
+of ROME, and accompany’d the Ambassador to his Palace, where his
+Excellency treated all the Company with Refreshments.
+
+On the Day of Audience, the Ambassador went in his Equipage to the Palace
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, attended by the Coaches of the Cardinals and the
+Nobility. He was receiv’d at the Top of the Stairs by the _Major Domo_,
+who conducted him into that called the Prince’s Apartment. The Ambassador
+having waited there a little Time, two Masters of the Ceremonies came to
+acquaint him, that his Holiness was ready to admit him to an Audience in
+the Consistory then sitting. The Ambassador went thither, conducted by the
+Masters of the Ceremonies; and Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_,
+received him at the Entrance of the Hall of the Consistory, and conducted
+him to the Entrance of the Court fronting the Pope. The Ambassador fell on
+his Knees, and made a profound Obeisance to the Pope, who gave him his
+Blessing. Then he fell on his Knees again in the Middle of the Court, and
+the third Time at the Pope’s Feet, to whom he made his Speech kneeling. In
+this Posture he also delivered the Letter from the Grand Master to the
+Holy Father, who gave it to a Prelate, ordering him to read it. The
+Ambassador arose, and having crossed the Court, saluting the Cardinals on
+the Right and Left, he fell on his Knees at the Entrance of the Court,
+opposite to the Holy Father. There he heard the Grand Master’s Letter
+read, and afterwards a very long Speech in _Latin_, which an Abbat, who
+was a Knight of _Malta_, made in the Name of the Order, upon his Knees.
+The Prelate had no sooner read the Letter, but he answered the Speech in
+_Latin_. The Ambassador, who was still on his Knees, arose, after the
+Prelate had ended his Speech; went and kneel’d again at the Pope’s Feet,
+which he kiss’d, and then presented to his Holiness the Knights of
+_Malta_, who had accompany’d him to the Audience, and who all kiss’d the
+Holy Father’s Feet. The Pope, rising from his Seat, retir’d to his
+Apartment; but the Ambassador stay’d in the Hall of the Consistory, till
+all the Cardinals were gone out. He then returned to his Palace, where he
+gave a grand Repast to the Knights of his Order. The next and the
+following Days, he made his Visits of Ceremony to the Cardinals. Their
+Eminencies don’t give Precedence to the Ambassadors; but bating that only,
+they treat them as their Equals.
+
+I have been assured, that the Ambassadors Extraordinary of Kings are
+lodged three Days in the Pontifical Palace, during which they have the
+Honour to dine once with the Holy Father. If I continue here till the
+Arrival of the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, who is
+every Day expected, I will give you an Account how he is received; for
+tho’ these Ceremonies are printed here, I shall be willing to have ocular
+Demonstration of the Things that I write to you.
+
+Of all the public Functions at this Place, there is none more august, and
+more solemn, than the Procession with the Holy Sacrament, when ’tis
+carry’d by the Pope. Upon _Corpus Christi_ Day, the Holy Father was placed
+in an Arm-chair, without a Back to it, with a Desk before him, upon which
+he laid the Pyx that contained the Holy Sacrament. His Cope, which was
+very long, and very wide, so cover’d the Desk and the Chair, that the Pope
+seemed to be kneeling. His Head was uncovered, and in this Posture he was
+carry’d by eight Men. In my whole Life, I never saw any thing more
+exemplary than the Countenance of the Pope during the Ceremony, his Face
+being the very Picture of Contrition and Devotion. The Procession set out
+from St. _Peter_’s Church, attended by all the Fraternities, the Monastic
+Orders, the _Roman_ Nobility, the Conservators of ROME, the Governor of
+ROME, the Chapter of St. _Peter_, and all the Prelates and Bishops. Three
+_Tiara_’s, and as many Mitres, adorn’d with Pearls and Diamonds, were
+carry’d before the Holy Father. The Pope was environed with the hundred
+_Swiss_ of his Guards, all in Armour, and by the Officers of his Chamber;
+and the Procession was clos’d by the Light-horse, and Cuirassiers on
+Horseback. The Colonnade of St. _Peter_, and the Streets, were hung with
+Tapestry, and cover’d with Canvas, to keep off the Heat of the Sun. As the
+Pope passed by the House where the Family of the _Stuarts_ liv’d, he gave
+to those Princes the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament. The Holy Father’s
+Nieces were in a neighbouring House; but they did not receive that
+Honour, it being reserved only for Sovereigns.
+
+You seem, Sir, to be so much prejudiced against the holy Office of the
+Inquisition, that I must endeavour to convince you of the mistaken Notion,
+which, I presume to say, you have conceived upon that Head. Honest People
+have no more Reason to dread this Tribunal, than any of the other Courts
+of Justice. They tell a thousand Stories of it in our Part of the World,
+and especially among the _Protestants_, which are absolute Falsehoods. Be
+but an honest Man; speak of God and the Saints with all due Respect, or at
+least don’t offer to insult them; give no public Scandal; and you have
+nothing to fear from the Holy Office. To speak the Truth, will not a Man
+in all the Christian Countries, that is notoriously impious in Word or
+Deed, will he not be taken to Talk by the Consistories, and by the Law? I
+own, for my part, that I don’t see wherein that Barbarity, and that
+Inhumanity consists, which the Holy Office is charg’d with in _Protestant_
+Countries; on the contrary, it seems to me to be the mildest Tribunal in
+the World. Let me be guilty of the greatest Injuries to God and Religion,
+in Thought, Word or Deed; if I do but go and confess my Crimes to the Holy
+Office, and tell them I repent of my Wickedness and Folly, the Father
+Commissary will represent the Horror of my Sins to me, will exhort me, for
+the Salvation of my Soul, to behave and think better for the future, and
+at last will absolve me. Where now is that _Protestant_ Tribunal, which is
+content with a voluntary Confession? Instead of absolving the Penitent,
+don’t they condemn him to Imprisonment, and bodily Pains?
+
+For these sixteen Months that I have been at ROME, I have not heard of any
+one’s being arrested by the Holy Office; on the contrary, I have seen
+Acts of Clemency perform’d by this Tribunal, so much run down, which
+perhaps the Consistory of _Geneva_ would never have done. I had not long
+been here, but there came one _Pallas_, a Native of _Toulon_, and Captain
+in _France_, who brought a young Woman with him, whom he said he had
+ravish’d; he desir’d a License of the Vicar to marry her, which was
+granted. But some Months after, there comes a Woman, who appear’d to be
+the Wife of _Pallas_, and the Mother of the young Creature that he had but
+just married, and who was ready to lie in. _Pallas_, perceiving his Crime
+on the Brink of being detected, goes and reveals the whole to the Holy
+Office, which first gave him Protection for his Person, and in a few Days
+after acquitted him, injoining him at the same time to take his first Wife
+again. This _Pallas_ dying not many Days after, his two Wives went to Law
+for their Jointure. I question now whether this Officer would have been
+acquitted by a Parliament of _France_.
+
+The Congregation of the Holy Office was established by Pope _Paul_ III. at
+the Solicitation of the Cardinal _John Peter Caraffa_, who afterwards,
+becoming Pope, by the Name of _Paul_ IV. made a remarkable Addition to the
+Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, _Pius_ V. reduced it to its
+present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a
+Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are
+called _Consultori & Qualificatori del Santo Officio_. Among those are
+included a Conventual, the General of the _Dominicans_, the Master of the
+Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the
+Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes
+Cognizance of the Causes of Heresy, and of such novel Opinions as are
+repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of
+Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked
+Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits
+twice a Week, _viz._ on _Wednesdays_ in the Convent of _Minerva_, and on
+_Thursdays_ in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest
+Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper
+of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no
+Proposals but what they think proper.
+
+The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. _Peter_’s Church, and there
+live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and
+other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are
+try’d, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office
+acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the
+Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive
+Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation.
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the
+_Romans_ in particular, and the _Italians_ in general, I mean its to the
+reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of _Italy_.
+That the _Romans_ hate the _Florentines_, I think I have told you more
+than once; but that’s not all, for they as heartily hate the _Neapolitans_
+and the _Genoese_. They commonly say, that there must be seven _Jews_ to
+make one _Genoese_, and seven _Genoese_ to make one _Florentine_. ’Tis
+unaccountable how the People of _Italy_ can so hate one another. I can’t
+imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does
+them; for, in short, ’tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to
+another, but it diffuses its Poison to the Towns that are subject to one
+and the same Sovereign. These People don’t consider that they form one and
+the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be
+both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek
+to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid
+Support of their Liberty.
+
+To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho’ our _Germany_ is divided
+into many more Dominions than _Italy_ is, we do however form a Body
+against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties.
+The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor’s Will; and their own Interest,
+and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with
+one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the _Italian_
+Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a
+Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview
+with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to
+adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between _Philip_ IV.
+and _Lewis_ XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act
+towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful
+Kingdoms? ’Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the
+Governments and Towns of _Italy_, that has made them for a long time the
+Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good
+Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature
+has furnish’d them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don’t defend,
+’tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of
+all Dominions is determin’d, would not have it so.
+
+Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you
+again, much less when I shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho’
+there’s scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do
+you but render me like for like, and be assur’d that nobody in the World
+is more strictly than I am, _Yours, &c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731._
+
+The Road from _Rome_ to LORETTO has been so fully describ’d, that I think
+I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of
+the _Santa Casa_, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the
+Place where it now stands. If you would be inform’d of the Treasure of
+this House, look into the Voyages of _Misson_, who has given a large
+Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much
+increas’d, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it.
+The Queen of _France_ has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for
+the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth
+of the Dauphin.
+
+From _Loretto_ to BOLOGNA the Road is good, and ’tis a fine fruitful
+Country; I stay’d three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see
+the Cardinal _Grimani_, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a
+Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected
+Behaviour. He has been _Internuncio_ at _Brussels_, _Nuncio_ at
+_Cologne_, and in _Poland_, and in this Quality he resided at _Vienna_,
+when he was advanc’d to the Purple. I knew him at all those _Nunciatures_;
+I saw him at _Rome_, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have
+now seen him again at _Bologna_, and find he is the same Man now he is
+both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an _Internuncio_[17]. For
+’tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners.
+
+Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the _Apennine_ Hills a
+second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all
+Thoughts of being at _Leghorn_ at the Arrival of the Fleets from _Spain_
+and _England_, I have been at FLORENCE, and have had the Honour to wait on
+the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly
+paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at _Dusseldorp_, and
+she was now pleas’d to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of
+Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very
+retir’d, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the
+Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince’s Equipage.
+
+I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great
+Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an
+Audience of him; yet I attain’d to that Honour at the very Time when I
+least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress’s Apartment, I
+met one of the Great Duke’s _Valets de Chambre_, who came to tell me,
+That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz’d
+me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he
+convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the
+_Valet de Chambre_ introduc’d me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke
+sitting upright in Bed, accompany’d by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on
+but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse
+Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear’d with Snuff, and truly there was
+nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in
+Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain’d
+Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv’d me however
+with great Marks of Goodness, reproach’d me because I had not yet desired
+to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very
+ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince
+remember’d he had known my Father, and he call’d to mind, that when he was
+at _Berlin_, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask’d me what News
+from the Court of _Prussia_? and wanted to know all the Alterations that
+had been made there since his Time: He talk’d to me of the Court of
+_Rome_, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy
+Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master
+of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a
+gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand
+Duke said, ’twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for ’twas no more
+than Two o’Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which
+I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a
+Bottle which was by his Bed-side. ’Twas to no Purpose for me to protest,
+that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another,
+and after that a third. The Great Duke assum’d no State upon Account of
+his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me.
+I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good
+Luck would have it, _Joannino_, his favourite _Valet de Chambre_, came in,
+and whisper’d something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a
+serious Air, and soon after dismiss’d me, but charg’d me not to go from
+FLORENCE before I had receiv’d his Commands. _Make yourself as merry as
+you can_, said the Prince; _but be sure not to go away without taking year
+Leave of me_. Two Hours after I return’d to my Inn, his Royal Highness
+sent me a Present of Fowls, _Bologna_ Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and
+other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most
+excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three
+Months.
+
+I stay’d four Days, expecting the Great Duke’s Orders; but as none came in
+all that Time, I desir’d his Favourite _Joannino_ to ask him if he had any
+Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir’d I would stay
+two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was
+arriv’d from _Leghorn_, which brought him News, that the _Spanish_ Fleet
+had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be
+very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform’d, that he
+left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the
+Commandeur _d’Elbene_, and the Marquis _Rinuccini_, who settled every
+thing as they thought fit with Father _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister.
+
+The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure
+Indulgence. ’Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace,
+and above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon,
+and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but
+this is an Honour which the _Florentines_ don’t easily attain to; for he
+seems to be fondest of the _German_ Nation, whose Language he speaks well,
+and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims
+that pass this Way, either to or from _Rome_, but he sends for them to his
+Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his
+Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at
+Five o’Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always
+eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in
+Table-Talk with _Joannino_, and some young Fellows call’d _Ruspanti_,
+because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in _Ruspes_, which
+are a Coin of the same Value as _Sequins_; and some of them have two,
+three, and even five _Ruspes_ a Week. They are paid by _Joannino_ every
+_Wednesday_ and _Saturday_; but all their Business is to attend the Great
+Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; ’tis said their
+Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal
+Highness 80,000 Crowns _per Ann._ They consist of all Nations, but of
+_Germans_ more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad
+alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much
+curl’d and powder’d.
+
+When the two Days which the Great Duke had order’d me to stay were
+expir’d, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me
+to wait on him, and receiv’d me altogether as kindly as he did the first
+Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to
+talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss’d me,
+saying, _Farewel, go to +Leghorn+, and see my new Guests safe ashore_.
+
+I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some
+Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.
+
+The Commandeur _d’Elbene_ is Steward of the Great Duke’s Houshold, and
+President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit.
+
+The Marquis _Rinuccini_ is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul
+of the Council, having been employ’d in Business a long time; for in 1711
+he was the Great Duke’s Envoy at the _Hague_, and about that Time he
+attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at
+_Franckfort_. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_, and from thence he went to _England_: When he
+return’d from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of
+his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has
+still the Direction. ’Twas he that dispos’d the Great Duke and the
+Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don _Carlos_, the
+Infante of _Spain_, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that
+settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected
+here with very great Impatience.
+
+Tho’ the Nobility of FLORENCE are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet
+’tis certain, that the Marquis _Richardi_ is one of those Gentlemen that
+give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in
+_Tuscany_, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three
+Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don _Vincenzo_,
+who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell’d
+very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and
+Merit.
+
+There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don’t dress well, and
+have not near so much Liberty as those of _Rome_: There’s one Madame
+_Suarez_ indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to
+all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the
+_English_; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming
+in it.
+
+Before I set out from FLORENCE, I can’t think it will be improper to give
+you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the _Medicis_, which is
+near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke _John Gaston_.
+
+This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to _Tuscany_. _Cosmo_ the
+First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain’d that Title
+about _Ann._ 1568. from the Emperor _Maximilian_ II of whom he had
+demanded the Title of _King of Hetruria_; but the Emperor return’d him for
+Answer, That he knew of but one King in _Italy_, and that was himself.
+However, to gratify _Cosmo_’s Vanity, _Maximilian_ invented the Title of
+_Great Duke_, that of _Arch Duke_ being already the Appenage of the House
+of _Austria_. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances,
+are as follow.
+
+    _+Cosmo I.+ who married +Eleanor+ of +Toledo+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand I.+ who married +Joan+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Francis I.+ who married +Mary Magdalen+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Cosmo II.+ whose Wife was +Claude+ of +Lorain+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand II.+ married to +Mary de la Rovero+, Duchess of
+    +Urbino+._
+
+    _+Cosmo III.+ who married +Margaretta Louisa+ of +Orleans+._
+
+    _+John Gaston+, married to +Anna Maria Frances+ of
+    +Saxe-Lawenbourg+._
+
+The Family of _Medicis_ calls to my Mind that of the _Kettlers_, Dukes of
+_Courland_; and I fansy the following Parallel will hold between the two
+Families. The _Medicis_, before they were Sovereigns of _Tuscany_, were
+Standard-Bearers of FLORENCE; the _Kettlers_ were Gentlemen, and Grand
+Masters of the _Teutonic_ Order in _Courland_. The Emperor _Maximilian_
+II. made _Medicis_ Grand Duke: _Sigismond Augustus_, King of _Poland_,
+made _Kettler_ a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns
+to _Europe_, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last
+of the _Medicis_, and the last of the _Kettlers_, were married to
+Princesses of the _Saxon_ Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing
+of their Succession before they are dead[18]. Both Families began to
+flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of _Europe_; and
+in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same.
+
+I could stay but six Days at _Florence_ this Journey, because I had a mind
+to see the Landing of the _Spaniards_ at LEGHORN. I had no Time neither to
+lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv’d, and landed two
+or three Days after. The Fleet was compos’d of two Squadrons, one of
+which, _viz._ the _English_, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded
+by Admiral _Wager_. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time,
+but had been dispers’d by a Storm in the Gulph of _Lyons_. The _English_
+came in all together; but the _Spaniards_ arriv’d one after another, and
+some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on
+the second of _November_, _All Souls Day_, whereon there fell a terrible
+Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis
+_de Charni_[19], the Commander of the _Spanish_ Forces, came on Shore the
+Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis _Rinuccini_, whom
+the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to LEGHORN. The _Spanish_ General
+was oblig’d to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the
+Marquis _Rinuccini_, which when he had done, the _Spanish_ Forces enter’d
+the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and
+mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated,
+that there shall be always two Thirds _Spaniards_ to one Third of the
+Great Duke’s Soldiers. The _Spanish_ Army consists of no more than 6000
+Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and
+Equipage for above 20,000. There’s one _Swiss_ Regiment, another of
+_Walloons_.
+
+I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The _English_ has three Decks,
+and carries 86 Guns: The _Spanish_, which had Admiral _Mari_ on board,
+carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the
+_English_ Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante
+Don _Carlos_, and no Expence was spar’d to render it magnificent. The
+Admiral’s Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables,
+Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, _&c._ were of _Indian_ Lacca
+Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the _English_
+Ship was the neatest, and far out-did the _Spaniard_ in the civil
+Treatment of those that went aboard. The _English_ Naval Officers are
+almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to
+such as came to visit them, and talk’d very modestly both of their Ships
+and their Tackling; whereas the _Spaniards_ bragg’d of theirs beyond
+measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were
+much easier to work than those of the _English_, which are all of three
+Decks; and affirm’d, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and
+their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the _English_, and
+not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was
+told by an _Engish_ Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable
+to one that had but two, because when ’tis a high Sea, and they are forc’d
+to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining,
+whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one
+remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, _said the Officer_, being
+higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the
+other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of
+Navigation, I know not whether my _Englishman_ was in the right. But be
+that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally,
+that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects,
+it will be always safer to _lay a Wager_ on the Side of the _English_ than
+on the _Spanish_ Ships.
+
+On St. _Charles_’s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don
+_Carlos_, the Marquis _Mari_ gave us a grand Feast: I say _us_, because I
+was there, as well as all _Leghorn_, _Florence_, _Sienna_, _Lucca_, and
+_Pisa_, which you’ll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover,
+it was very gay. The _Florence_ Gentry, who expected that the Infante
+would have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they
+are naturally very prodigal, they spar’d no Cost upon this Occasion. The
+_Lucquese_ Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that
+taking the _Milanese_ and _Genoese_ along with them, they are of all the
+_Italians_ the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality.
+Besides the _Italians_, there was so great a Concourse of _Englishmen_ and
+Foreigners at LEGHORN, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless
+Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever.
+
+The _English_ are return’d home. ’Tis said, that the Infante[20] will come
+hither speedily by Land. The _Tuscans_ long mightily to see him, and
+expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his
+Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of _Nostradamus_, who says
+in one of his Stanzas,
+
+      _Du plus profund de l’Occident d’Europe,
+      De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra,
+      Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe:
+      Son bruit au Regne d’Orient plus croitra._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+      ‘In the most Western Part of _Europe_ an Infant
+      shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall
+      lead a great Force towards the _Po_, and whose
+      Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.’
+
+This Child, _born of a double Marriage_, must be the Infante, who is the
+Son of _Philip_ V. by his second Wife.
+
+I heartily wish that I cou’d have staid at _Florence_ till this Prince
+arriv’d; but I have order’d my Affairs so as to be at _Paris_ before
+_Christmas_, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave
+LEGHORN, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note
+for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. ’Tis one of the neatest
+Cities in _Italy_, and that to which there’s the greatest Concourse of
+Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their
+Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and
+lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of _Holland_.
+The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided
+into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render’d
+convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for
+Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the
+Gallies. There’s an admirable Marble Statue of _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_,
+which is rais’d on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is
+represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on
+his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue
+are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or
+Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass,
+representing _Turks_, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were,
+chain’d to the Pedestal: The _Connoisseurs_ reckon them Master-pieces:
+Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they
+represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of
+four _Turks_, _viz._ the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father,
+and the Son; who being all on board a _Turkish_ Vessel, the youngest of
+them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they
+embark’d, that on such a Day they shou’d all be taken into Slavery by the
+Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they
+were taken by the Great Duke’s Gallies, and this Prince caus’d their
+Statues to be carv’d, to transmit the Event to Posterity.
+
+PISA, tho’ a much more considerable City than _Leghorn_ for its Antiquity,
+and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. ’Tis a
+large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; ’tis divided
+into two Parts by the River _Arno_, which comes from _Florence_, and forms
+two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of _Gothic_
+Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are
+of Brass, and represent the Passages mention’d in the New Testament, a
+Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of
+_Solomon_’s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the
+Baptistery of _Florence_. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the
+Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble
+Columns.
+
+I say nothing to you of the Tower that leans to one Side, and which
+consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor
+of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call’d _il Campo
+Santo_. Look into _Misson_, he will tell you the Measures of every thing;
+for that Gentleman always carry’d Mathematical Instruments about him, so
+that there was nothing but what he measur’d and weigh’d.
+
+PISA is a City, which a Traveller can’t avoid seeing, but ’tis impossible
+for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their
+Ancestors gain’d by the Conquest of _Carthage_, that their Vanity is
+perfectly surfeiting.
+
+Having stay’d but one Day at _Pisa_, I proceeded in my Journey to _Genoa_,
+passing thro’ the Forest of VIAREGGIO, where, if I had had a great Charge
+of Money about me, and had credited what my Guide said, I shou’d have
+sweat for Fear; because he affirm’d to me, that there was not a Week
+throughout the Year but Passengers were robb’d and murder’d in this
+Forest. But when I came to the Village of _Viareggio_, which stands in the
+Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was
+false; and that since the Courier from _Lucca_ was robb’d, which was
+eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put
+me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don’t care to
+tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an _Italian_ Lacquey that I have
+in my Service, cou’d not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this
+Forest to pass thro’, he conjur’d me to take a Guard; but I banter’d him,
+and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his
+Beads. I had scarce travell’d half a League, but I saw five Men coming
+arm’d; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy’d them, cry’d out like a
+Madman, _Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia!
+Misericordia!_ I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men,
+who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their
+Garb, that they were Soldiers from _Lucca_, who patroll’d there for the
+Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at
+first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to
+PIETRA-SANTA, a little Place in the State of _Lucca_, he had not Strength
+to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz’d him, that he was
+almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every
+whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus’d him to
+bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my
+Chaise, and went and lay at MASSA DI CARRARA, the Capital of a very small
+Feodal Sovereignty of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal _Cibo_, the last
+of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece,
+who, ’tis said, is design’d for the young Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+Nephew[21] to the Great _Eugene_, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor’s
+Forces.
+
+The Founder of this Family was _Alberic Cibo_, the natural Son of
+_Innocent_ VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor _Maximilian_ II. erected
+_Massa_ into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing
+remarkable in it but the Prince’s Palace, which makes some Shew. The
+Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at _Massa_ are of good
+florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble,
+and for Oil in abundance.
+
+From _Massa_ to SERSANA, or SARZANA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, the
+Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and
+Vines. In this City the _Genoese_ have a Governor, or Podestat, but they
+keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better
+Soldiers to withstand the _Corsicans_, who are call’d the _Devils_ of
+_Italy_, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress’d. The
+Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for
+Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from
+Foreigners.
+
+From _Sersana_ I proceeded to LERICI, a little Town on the Sea-side. There
+I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv’d in less than twenty-four
+Hours at _Genoa_, tho’ I stay’d some Hours at SESTRI, an Episcopal City of
+that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and very agreeably
+situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This
+Town is defended by a Fort, which seem’d to me to be well furnish’d with
+Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann’d than that of _Sersana_.
+
+GENOA, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the
+greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the
+Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns
+of _Italy_ it is with Justice call’d the _Superb_; for there is not a City
+in _Europe_, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and
+where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City
+has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer’d a greater
+Shock than in 1684. when ’twas bombarded by Order of _Lewis_ XIV. The
+Marquis _de Seignelai_, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg’d
+his Commission so well, that from the 18th of _May_ to the 28th, he caus’d
+13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The _Genoese_ were oblig’d to
+humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that
+they wou’d send four Senators into _France_, to make their Submission to
+him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho’,
+according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a
+Foot out of the City, _Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari_ was then the Doge,
+who went to _Versailles_, and had his Audience there on the 15th of _May_
+1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more
+Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.
+
+The _French_ boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck
+Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in
+Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of
+the most glorious Epochas of the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. Far be it from me
+to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and
+to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether
+the _French_ wou’d easily pardon any other Nations for making the like
+Boast of their Exploits. The _Spaniards_, who have the Character of being
+vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the
+_French_. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is,
+the Excuses which _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, Son to _Charles
+Emanuel_, Duke of _Savoy_, made in Person to _Philip_ IV. King of _Spain_,
+in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because
+he had made a Treaty with _France_, sought to be reveng’d on him, and
+found an Opportunity. _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ being assassinated,
+_Mary de Medicis_, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with
+_Spain_, by assisting _Charles Emanuel_. _Philip_ IV. improv’d this
+Opportunity, and caus’d Troops to march from the _Milanese_ towards
+_Piedmont_: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to
+_Madrid_. The young Prince was very well receiv’d there at first, but he
+had the Mortification to be oblig’d to make the most submissive Speech
+that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: ‘Sir, _said he,
+addressing himself to the King_, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being
+hinder’d from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to
+supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I
+am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief
+of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at
+your Majesty’s Feet, resolv’d not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till
+you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke
+my Father, and our whole Family, into your Royal Protection. By this,
+_Sir_, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest
+Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is
+devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration,
+which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if
+necessary, be seal’d by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon
+your Majesty’s Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve.
+If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it
+will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.’
+
+Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of
+the King of _Spain_, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of _Genoa_ to
+puff up _Lewis_ XIV? And is not a Prince of _Piedmont_ at _Madrid_, a
+Person of more Consequence than a Doge of _Genoa_ at _Versailles_?
+Nevertheless, the _Spaniards_ have neither struck any Medals, nor raised
+any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for
+this Digression: The Prince of _Piedmont_’s Speech is not to be met with
+in all the Historians: I believ’d it would be acceptable to you, and
+thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation
+made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the _Doge_. I now resume
+the Thread of my Narrative.
+
+The Street _Balbi_, and the _new_ Street, are more like Galleries than
+Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the _Annunciation_
+and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the _Jesuits_
+College, of which _James Balbi_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, made a Present on
+his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always
+remain over the great Gate. The Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have
+laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for
+this End have had great Law-Suits with the _Balbi_ Family; but at length
+they were condemn’d by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the
+Founder, and there they still remain.
+
+The two Palaces _Purazzi_, which are in the same Street, are very
+magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a
+Theatre, called the Theatre of the _Falcon_, which is so extremely well
+laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and
+without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient,
+and the Ornaments dispos’d every-where with Judgment.
+
+The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street _Balbi_. Here
+are the two Palaces _Brignole_, and indeed they are both stately
+Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the
+newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent
+Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an
+extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon
+Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one
+wou’d not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs
+_Brignole_ are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son:
+They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in _Genoa_.
+
+The Palace of the Duke _Doria_, which is in the same Street, is grand and
+stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince _Doria_,
+without the Gate of St. _Thomas_, which owes its Foundation to the
+celebrated _Doria_, who was a General of the Emperor _Charles_ V. This
+Palace is very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the
+Apartments are low and old-fashioned.
+
+The Suburb of St. _Peter d’Arena_ is very large, and contains several
+noble Palaces, of which the Palace _Imperiali_, where the Emperor and
+Empress lodged at their Return from _Spain_, is esteemed by the
+Connoisseurs in Architecture.
+
+The People at _Genoa_ are more sociable than they are at _Venice_, and the
+Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don’t believe, that they who
+accuse the _Italians_ of Jealousy, include the _Genoese_ in that Charge;
+there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow’d more
+Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have
+very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess’d Lovers.
+These Sparks, who go by the Name of _Cicisbei_, are never out of their
+Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so
+fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from
+the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have
+five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go;
+and ’tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the
+Ears. ’Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it;
+for the Gentry here don’t wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the
+Lawyers in _France_; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I
+could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in _France_ would likewise wear,
+in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers.
+
+The People of Quality here dress very well, and the _Genoese_ of both
+Sexes have a much better Air than those of _Florence_ and _Rome_. The
+Princess of _Modena_’s Residence with them has not been to their
+Detriment; for they have contracted a courtly Behaviour, to which the
+_Italians_ are pretty much Strangers. The _Genoese_ in general understand
+good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing
+better. Tho’ they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here
+very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the
+Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for
+a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced
+to them by the Count _Guiccardi_, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor,
+and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke
+of _Modena_, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince’s
+Minister at _Vienna_, when he went into the Service of his Imperial
+Majesty. He married the Countess _Sinzendorff_, who was the Daughter of
+_Hawitz_, the Grand Marshal at _Dresden_. This Lady was a _Lutheran_; but
+being at _Vienna_, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the
+Metropolitan Church of St. _Stephen_, while she was looking upon a Picture
+of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she
+was, and scorch’d her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou’d not shew
+for all the Gold of _Peru_; but she received no other Harm, and thinking
+that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression
+upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary
+Professor.
+
+You know that the _Genoese_ are actually at War with their Subjects the
+_Corsicans_, who have newly publish’d a Manifesto of their Reasons for
+taking Arms. If all they say be true, ’tis certain they have been very ill
+used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus’d, theirs may. This War has
+already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are
+taking, ’tis to be presumed it will run them into a much greater Expence.
+The _Corsicans_ have chose one _Giafferi_ for their Leader. He is a Man of
+Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure
+his Country its Liberties; and if the _Genoese_ are not assisted by some
+Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to
+Light. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Turin, Nov. 28, 1731._
+
+The Road hither from GENOA is very bad at this time of the Year. During
+the first two Post-Stages I cross’d one River no less than thirty-two
+times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho’ the
+Neighbourhood of GENOA is very mountainous, ’tis very pleasant, all the
+Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had
+travell’d about four Post-Stages, I enter’d on the Plain which brought me
+to _Turin_. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World,
+and wants nothing but Causeys.
+
+The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was ALEXANDRIA DE
+LA PAILLE, which stands on the River _Tanaro_. ’Tis a great Town, but not
+very populous. It formerly depended on the _Milanese_, and was yielded by
+the Emperor to the King of _Sardinia_, who keeps a good Garison in it, and
+has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been
+very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are
+the most considerable in _Italy_.
+
+I afterwards came to ASTI, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which
+indeed is one of the best of _Italy_, From thence I went and lay at
+QUIERI, a great Town in _Piedmont_, ill built, but full of People of
+Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was
+in so much Haste to get to TURIN, that I did not stay there. I pass’d by
+the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of MONTCALLIER, a Royal
+Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King _Victor
+Amedeus_. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the
+finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more
+worth a Traveller’s View, than the Village of _Montcallier_ itself.
+
+At some Distance from this Place I cross’d the _Po_ over a wooden Bridge,
+and came thro’ a pleasant Avenue to TURIN, the Capital of _Piedmont_, and
+the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of _Savoy_. Those Princes chose also
+to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which
+is what they call in _France_ the Parlement; and they have rendered it one
+of the strongest and finest Cities of _Italy_, exclusive of its charming
+Situation. ’Tis divided into two Parts, the _old_ and the _new_ City, with
+Bastions and Outworks, well fac’d, and a Citadel very regularly fortify’d.
+It stands eighteen Miles from the _Alps_, in a Plain which has the _Po_ on
+one Side, and the _Duero_ on the other.
+
+This City will always be remember’d for the Siege which it sustained in
+1704, when the Marshal and Count _Daun_, Governor of _Milan_, commanded
+here, by the Emperor’s Permission, at the Request of the Duke of _Savoy_.
+He defended the Place against the Duke of _Orleans_, the Grandson of
+_France_, and gave Time to Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ to come to its
+Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The _French_ pretend,
+that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_, the Daughter of King _Victor Amedeus_, was the Person that
+prevail’d on _Lewis_ XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As
+I am not privy to what pass’d at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of
+_France_, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as
+the Belief of what the _French_ give out upon this Head is not an Article
+of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to
+Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had:
+For how can it be imagin’d, that if _Lewis_ XIV, had really a Desire, that
+his Army should decamp from before TURIN, he would have chose to have
+subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his
+Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos’d the Honour of his
+Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men,
+which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet
+would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the
+Appearance of a Flight. But the _French_ have this Notion: They were never
+routed, but ’twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be
+routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the
+Battle of _Hochstet_, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the
+Elector of _Bavaria_, and the Marshal _de Tallard_; that of _Ramillies_,
+because the Marshal _de Villeroy_ would not let the Elector of _Bavaria_
+have the Honour of beating us; that of _Audenarde_, because the Duke of
+_Vendosme_’s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of
+_Burgundy_, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. _de la Motte_, too,
+suffered himself to be beaten near _Wynendale_, only in Complaisance to
+the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to
+persuade the King his Grandfather to the Peace, which he had very much at
+Heart, if _Lisle_ was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have
+been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. _de la Motte_ had
+attack’d. The Passage of the _Scheld_, the raising of the Siege of
+_Brussels_, the Surrender of _Ghent_, without strikeing a Blow; all this
+was done also by Order of the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was for a Peace upon
+any Terms, and cou’d not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and
+Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the
+Marshals of _France_ to tell me the same Story, they would find me as
+great an Unbeliever as St. _Thomas_, and wou’d never prevail with me to be
+guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of _Burgundy_, the
+wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his
+Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.
+
+Nothing can be more regular than that Part of TURIN, which is called the
+_new City_. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets
+are wide, strait, and well-pav’d. It has fine Churches, particularly the
+Metropolis, or Chapel of the _Holy Handkerchief_, which is also the Royal
+Chapel, and may be reckon’d the Master-piece of Architecture. ’Tis in the
+Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac’d, not excepting the Roof, with black
+Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the
+precious Relique of our Lord’s Handkerchief, of which there’s the like in
+St. _Peter_’s Church at _Rome_, and at _Besançon_. I had been told, that I
+should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this
+Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour’s Body; but I was not so happy as
+to discern any thing like it.
+
+The King’s Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite
+finish’d; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv’d; The Furniture
+is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There
+are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos’d in the Manner of
+Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they
+are not much adorn’d.
+
+The finest, and the completest Thing at TURIN, and perhaps in _Europe_, in
+the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame
+Royale, the King’s Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King’s
+Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. ’Twas a very old Building,
+and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar’d no Cost, either in
+Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it
+happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal
+Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and
+to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This
+Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in _Italy_, and fix’d
+upon the Plans, which to her appear’d the most grand and beautiful. Before
+this Stair-case was built, they us’d to say that Madame Royale’s Palace
+was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say ’tis a Stair-case
+without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou’d become the _Louvre_, it
+being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.
+
+I cou’d not get a Sight of the Castle of the _Venerie_, three Leagues from
+TURIN; for while King _Victor_ is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer’d to
+go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince’s being under an
+Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform’d of what gave
+Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into
+Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.
+
+King _Victor Amedeus_, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was
+Daughter of _Philip_ of _France_, the late Duke of _Orleans_, by
+_Henrietta_ of _England_, fell in Love with the Marchioness of[24] _St.
+Sebastian_, Lady of Honour to the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_. The Virtue of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, and the King’s
+Devotion for her, induc’d him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it
+honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a
+Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal
+a[25]Match. He imparted his Design to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, who did
+all she cou’d to prevail with _Victor_ to continue upon the Throne; but
+finding he was resolv’d not to make her a Queen, she consented to his
+Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour’d to become the Wife of a
+Prince, who had worn a Crown. King _Victor_ consulted with his chief
+Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis’d him not to leave the
+Throne. His Son King _Charles_ conjur’d him to keep Possession of it. _I
+protest to your Majesty_, said this Prince, _I never once indulged a Wish
+to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject_. But
+all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of _September_, 1730,
+was fix’d for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons
+in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the[26]Palace.
+There the King appear’d without any Mark of Royalty, accompany’d by the
+Prince of _Piedmont_, and declar’d to the Assembly, that he was resolv’d
+to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted
+them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had
+taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son
+_Charles_, Prince of _Piedmont_, for their King; and desir’d them to be as
+Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of
+Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis _del Borgo_,
+Secretary of State, and _Charles_ was recogniz’d for King.
+
+After the Ceremony was over, King _Victor_, with the Marchioness of _St.
+Sebastian_, whom he had married, on Condition[27] that she shou’d wear no
+other Title, set out for _Chamberry_, which he had chose for the Place of
+his Retirement. But scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of
+having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved
+as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King
+_Victor_ resign’d, he advis’d his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility
+and Gentry to be survey’d, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to
+the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho’ it had a View to the Increase of
+the King’s Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason,
+_Charles_ when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in
+Execution. _Victor_ being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son,
+rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and
+perceiving that _Charles_ was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained
+a Thought of reascending the Throne[28]. To this End, he secretly felt the
+Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to _Charles_:
+Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he
+knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou’d also be his Friends;
+for most of the Officers having been preferr’d by him, he did not doubt
+but they were still attach’d to him, and he flatter’d himself with their
+Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal _Rhebinder_, in
+general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting.
+This General, who was Commander in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of
+what Consequence it was to deprive King _Victor_ of the least Hopes of
+reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged
+to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: ‘Your Majesty, _said the
+Marshal in his Letter_, has made me all that I am. I am under no
+Obligation to King _Charles_; but my Engagements to your Majesty are
+inexpressible; tho’ of all the Favours which you have heap’d upon me, the
+Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave
+therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have
+acquir’d by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I
+shou’d forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the
+King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I
+shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last
+Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready
+to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person,
+being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me,
+but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your
+Actions, _&c._’
+
+This Answer was not sufficient to cool King _Victor_’s Ambition to resume
+the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal _de Rhebinder_, and
+to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify’d,
+that he knew how to punish those that refus’d to obey him. All these
+Letters were carried to King _Charles_, who being concerned to see his
+Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou’d you have me
+do? _He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to
+Providence._
+
+The King was still in Hopes, that he shou’d be able to make _Victor_ easy,
+and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he
+went with his Queen to _Evian_, and from thence to _Chamberry_, where
+_Charles_ paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper.
+The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he
+took leave of _Victor_, he paid a Visit to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, with
+whom he had a long Conference. He desir’d this Lady to pacify King
+_Victor_, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with
+State Affairs. _He hath made me King_, said _Charles, and King I will be.
+You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not
+like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that
+he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal_. They say
+_Charles_ dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin’d to yield
+his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis’d great
+Advantages to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, not only for herself, but for the
+Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady
+promis’d the King all that he desir’d, but kept her Word very ill; for her
+Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King _Victor_ every Day more and
+more uneasy.
+
+_Victor_ after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would
+reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be
+nearer TURIN. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of
+_Chamberry_ was bad for his Health, and desir’d him to let him go and
+reside at the Castle of _Montcallier_. _Charles_ was return’d to TURIN
+when he receiv’d this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he
+understood that the King his Father, and Madame _de St. Sebastian_, were
+already come to _Montcallier_. He was not at all sorry for it, because,
+as he knew King _Victor_’s Designs, he cou’d better observe his Motions,
+when so near him: And King _Victor_, on his Part, was glad that he was at
+_Montcallier_, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of TURIN might give him a
+better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding
+Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and
+gave such publick[29] Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that
+_Charles_’s Ministers[30], fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to
+his Assistance, unanimously advis’d the King to confine him. The young
+Prince exclaim’d several times against this Proposition. _What!_ said he,
+_make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that_: And indeed,
+it was a long time ere he cou’d agree to it; but at length he was
+prevail’d on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho’, when he
+sign’d the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that
+the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it.
+
+The Count _de la Perouse_, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged
+with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King _Victor_, and had a
+Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of
+TURIN, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking.
+They all march’d out at the same Hour from their Quarters, without
+knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o’Clock next Morning they all
+came to the Place appointed at _Montcallier_. The Count _de la Perouse_,
+attended by the Chevalier _de Solare_, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards,
+at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw’d to
+their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led
+to King _Victor_’s Apartment, while the Marquis _d’Ormea_, Secretary of
+State, who carry’d the Order sign’d by King _Charles_, secur’d the
+Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. _de la Perouse_,
+finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page
+in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way
+farther, and forc’d open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where
+the King was a-bed with Madame _de St. Sebastian_. This Lady, hearing a
+Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown,
+ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm’d Men, she cry’d out, _Oh! Sir,
+we are betray’d!_ They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers
+carry’d her into the next Chamber, where they caus’d her to be dress’d,
+and afterwards conducted her to _Ceve_, a Fortress of _Piedmont_.
+
+Neither the Outcry of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, nor all the Noise that
+was made, had awak’d King _Victor_, who always slept sound. The Chevalier
+_de Solare_ seiz’d the King’s Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and
+the Count _de la Perouse_ went to the Bed-side, and open’d the Curtains.
+Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask’d what was the
+Matter. The Count _de la Perouse_ said to him, That he had Orders from the
+King to arrest him. _What King do you mean?_ said _Victor_: _’Tis I that
+am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty
+has been so_, reply’d the Count, _but you are so no longer; and since it
+has pleas’d you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to
+command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such
+Obedience_. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten’d the Officers,
+and refus’d to rise. The Chevalier _de Solare_ coming too near the Bed,
+the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in
+Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise,
+the Officers lifted him. up, and dress’d him. The King was heard to say,
+in the mean time, that he only wish’d to sit two Hours on the Throne, that
+he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam’d the
+principal Lords of the Court.
+
+As soon as he was dress’d, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him
+down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard.
+The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem’d surpriz’d at
+it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent,
+seem’d no less surpriz’d, when they saw their old King was to be carry’d
+off a Prisoner. _What! Our King!_ said they softly to each other, _What
+has he done? What is the Matter?_ The Count _de la Perouse_, fearing a
+Mutiny, call’d out _Silence_, in the King’s Name, _on Pain of Death_. The
+old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he
+had always valu’d above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected
+him, and he wou’d have spoke to it; but no Time was allow’d him, and he
+was oblig’d to go into the Coach. The Count _de la Perouse_, and the
+Chevalier _de Solare_, ask’d his Leave to sit with him; but the King
+answer’d, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode
+by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and
+conducted him to _Rivoli_. I had almost forgot to tell you, that when he
+went from _Montcallier_, he ask’d for three Things; his Wife, his Papers,
+and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain’d.
+
+The Day after he came to _Rivoli_, as they were clapping iron Bars, and
+double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask’d the
+Glazier what he was going to do! _I am going_, said the Man, _to put on
+double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn’t catch Cold this Winter_.
+_How now, Varlet!_ said the King, _Do you think I shall spend all the
+Winter here?_ _Ah! by my Faith_, reply’d the Glazier, _you will pass this
+winter here, and I believe many more_.
+
+This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to
+his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier _de
+Solare_, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he
+sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all
+manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints[31].
+
+In the whole Course of this Affair, ’tis fortunate for King _Charles_,
+that not one of his Subjects has fail’d in his Allegiance to him; he has
+not been oblig’d to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has
+he caus’d above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King
+_Victor_’s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately
+set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored
+between the father and the Son.
+
+They say, that Madame _de St. Sebastian_ is fallen into a deep Melancholy;
+and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After
+her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen
+at Court. The young King missing him, ordered the Marquis _d’Ormea_,
+Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to
+Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he
+did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever,
+which Madame _de St. Sebastian_ had committed, and that he would take Care
+of his Fortune.
+
+The _Piedmontese_ are charm’d with their new King, and indeed, he is a
+Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane,
+compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in
+Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and
+particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a
+great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, ’tis only owing to the
+Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible.
+
+The Queen[32] is of the Family of _Hesse Rhinfels_. She is tall and
+slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very
+fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and
+ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is
+the Mother of two lovely[33] Princes, and a Princess, and seems very
+attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth.
+
+The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is
+observed at the Court of _France_, The King and Queen always eat together,
+and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The
+Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the
+Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to
+attend her, who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a
+Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the
+young Princess of _Carignan_, and the Queen’s youngest Sister, sitting on
+Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen’s Chair; and all
+the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds
+for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and
+Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where
+there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the
+Marchioness _de Prie_, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the
+_Netherlands_, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes
+present.
+
+There’s an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be
+enjoy’d in all _Italy_ besides; and the _Piedmontese_ don’t think
+themselves _Italians_; so that I am often ask’d, Whether I came last from
+_Italy_? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City
+better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the _French_ Manners
+with the _Italians_ is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live
+well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very
+civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal _de la Rhebinder_ is
+particularly noted. This General is a Native of _Livonia_: He commanded
+the Elector Palatine’s Troops in _Italy_, and then went into the Service
+of the Duke of _Savoy_, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a
+foreign Regiment of Foot. King _Victor_ created him a Velt-Marshal, and he
+is actually Commander in Chief of the King of _Sardinia_’s Troops.
+
+The Marquis _d’Ormea_ is the Chief or President of the Council, first
+Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the
+Confidence of King _Victor_. That Prince had sent him to _Rome_, where
+the Marquis _d’Ormea_ obtained great Advantages of Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices.
+This Minister was recall’d in the first Year of the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that
+his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King _Victor_’s Abdication he
+returned to TURIN. King _Charles_ does nothing without him. He is a
+Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his
+Promises. I knew him at _Rome_, and have the Honour of seeing him here as
+often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my
+Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not
+always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This
+Minister has a Brother a[34]Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very
+lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the
+Steps of his Father.
+
+The Youth here don’t seem to be so hair-brain’d as they are elsewhere: I
+don’t know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so
+in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his
+Children to the University here, than which I question whether there’s a
+better in _Europe_, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises,
+as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed
+in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which
+the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the
+other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow’d to go abroad
+on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go
+where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.
+
+The Out-parts of TURIN are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned
+with a great many pretty _Cassines_ or Pleasure-Houses, which are only
+separated by Meadows, that are constantly water’d by a Number of little
+Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the _Esplanade_, between the City
+and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very
+pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the _Piedmontese_
+Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave
+them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone.
+I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at _Lyons_, if I don’t stay at
+_Chamberry_; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don’t fail to write
+to me at _Paris_, and believe me to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Lyons, March 2, 1732._
+
+Tho’ I had pass’d Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers’d _Savoy_, yet I
+thought the Passage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily
+glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put
+together.
+
+From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pass’d by the Castle
+of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there’s an Avenue
+from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell’d
+thro’ SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a
+River form’d by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as
+it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which ’tis
+built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which
+King _Victor Amedeus_ caus’d to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_.
+Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. ’Tis provided with a
+good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been
+built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his
+Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have passed the
+Mountains.
+
+LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more
+disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig’d to stop there to unload their
+Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other
+Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by
+four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me
+upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to
+Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
+
+At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I
+thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain’d, and
+other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to
+receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable
+Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this
+Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends
+may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their
+greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
+fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the
+Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time
+People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country
+People call _se faire ramasser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious
+and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly
+faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay’d a Week together at
+_Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again
+and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire ramasser_.
+
+LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is
+oblig’d to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don’t travel Post,
+and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to
+this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides
+the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which
+is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is
+bury’d, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices:
+There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a
+Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which
+the Horses were kill’d, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which
+consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of
+_Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho’ he was not at
+all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou’d
+actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder’d
+him.
+
+I pass’d thro’ several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth
+mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because ’tis the See of a
+Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; ’tis a very antient
+County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley
+extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the
+_Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_.
+
+CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must
+expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet
+the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; ’tis situate
+on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompass’d
+with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There’s a
+great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money’d Men; yet
+they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The
+Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People
+good-natur’d and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good
+Sort of People. They are accus’d of being too thrifty, but perhaps ’tis
+more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig’d to
+support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune,
+he is forc’d to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
+
+At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high
+Mountain, in which I perceiv’d a Road had been cut for half a League. I
+saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not
+Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but,
+judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the
+Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the
+Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and
+magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether
+he wou’d have accomplish’d it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use
+of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high
+Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc’d on both
+Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of
+the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass’d, it
+was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter’d the
+Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
+
+This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the
+Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass’d
+to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar’d betwixt the Kings of
+_France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here,
+the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a
+Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which
+belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of
+the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_
+by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore
+the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_,
+finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of
+_France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St.
+_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv’d with the very great Esteem of
+good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated
+Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author
+of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him
+resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a
+secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope
+with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the
+Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to
+reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own’d to be a sad
+Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to
+injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou’d be of the Humour
+to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir’d, that the eldest Son
+of _France_ shou’d be styl’d the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has
+been observ’d ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the
+Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a
+Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at
+_Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. ’Twas to the Neighbourhood of this
+City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour’s Judges, were banish’d.
+
+LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to
++Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Sâon_ runs thro’ this City, and the _Rhone_
+washes its Walls; ’tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are
+industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There’s not a Town in
+_France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They
+endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but
+they can’t come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop,
+who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M.
+_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the
+XVth’s Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in
+Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its
+Province. The late Marshal obtain’d the Government of _Lyons_ and the
+_Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of
+the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second
+Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of
+_Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the
+Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de
+Retz_, and the Marquis _d’Alincourt_, and nominated the latter
+Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho’ Authority generally renders those
+hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_
+have ever escap’d that Fate; ’tis true they have always acted with very
+great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so
+that they are mightily belov’d in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as
+much respected as the King himself; for he procur’d great Advantages for
+the Province, and for the City in particular.
+
+They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first
+_Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of
+_Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and ’tis not
+without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs,
+and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops,
+who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is
+inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and ’tis an Observation made by
+several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of
+seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons
+of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and
+twenty were Barons. ’Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_,
+for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their
+Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom
+King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is
+known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this
+Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been
+Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevôt des Marchands_ of the City of
+_Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of
+State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family
+who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d’Alincourt_, Sieur
+_de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_,
+had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d’Alincourt_ was Governor of
+_Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as
+Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of
+_Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus’d to admit him, because
+he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King
+found a way to make himself obey’d, and when the Archbishop harangu’d the
+Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone
+which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_.
+The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
+would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was
+applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next
+Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord’s
+(+the King’s+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this,
+the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal
+Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the
+Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by
+the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded
+by M. _de Rochebonne_.
+
+The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor
+of the City, is the _Prevôt des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for
+any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as
+strictly examin’d as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig’d
+to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an
+Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear’d at
+last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The
+Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I
+imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
+
+The _Prevôt des Marchands_ ought to be chang’d every three Years; but when
+he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou’d think,
+that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou’d not make them so
+vain; for when they are turn’d out of their Employment, they make just the
+same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in
+which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.
+
+I have reason to be as much pleas’d with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I
+have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevôt des Marchands_. I have been to
+make him a Visit, which he has return’d; and for these four Days that I
+have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People
+of this City, in which there’s good Company, tho’ few Nobility. The
+Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine
+Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so
+little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the
+_Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb’d in Commerce as
+to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me
+very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and
+the Bottle.
+
+The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the
+best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if
+they don’t get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one
+of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig’d to yield the Precedence to a
+Journeyman Shopkeeper. There’s an old Actress here, who forty Years ago
+was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste
+wish her banish’d from the Theatre, but there’s no persuading this
+superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither’d Charms: She has the
+Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An
+Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better
+employ’d; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron,
+remonstrated, that she cou’d not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year,
+that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer,
+that she had no Estate; and that if they touch’d her Pension, she shou’d
+be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail’d, so that it was not
+thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of
+this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that
+Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her
+Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn’d; She takes
+the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.
+
+I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le
+Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a
+great many very pretty Women, and well dress’d, who act the Ladies of
+Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without
+acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: ’Tis not pav’d, nor near so wide
+as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated;
+and it were to be wish’d, that those on the two Sides were of the same
+Proportion. On one Side of this Square there’s a Row of Trees, and in the
+Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on
+Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription
+than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great
+deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_,
+who engag’d the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it
+the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou’d be paid to the
+Original.
+
+There’s another Square here call’d _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of
+Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and
+magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in
+Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the
+Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great
+Building, and, when finish’d, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                            LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Paris, March 20, 1732._
+
+For the sake of good Wine I preferr’d the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before
+the great Road from _Lyons_ thro’ _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv’d
+for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos’d on, and
+did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in
+all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my
+Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the
+Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to
+_Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I
+happen’d to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very
+amiable Gentlemen. We pass’d by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Principality
+of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by
+Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of
+_Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render’d herself
+famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the
+Cannon to be fir’d from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who
+never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her
+wou’d never give her leave to marry[38]. ’Twas to reconcile the King to
+her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a
+Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed
+there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.
+
+After having pass’d _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and
+Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that ’tis
+possible to imagine. We din’d very much in Haste at a Village, and went
+and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral
+have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at
+_Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and
+whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to
+see.
+
+CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear
+to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the
+Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew’d the
+Apartment where the Duchess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the
+Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit
+which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers:
+’Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of
+making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall’d by any Princess
+of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she
+fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig’d to live in a miserable Castle,
+with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend
+her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this
+Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.
+
+From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pass’d thro’ _Beaune_, and
+along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my
+Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to
+be: ’Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no
+great Appearance, tho’ they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In
+the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal
+Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the
+Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows,
+which, if the Houses were higher, wou’d make a fine Sight. This Street
+leads to the Place Royale, in which there’s an Equestrian Statue of the
+late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac’d on so high a Pedestal, that it even
+raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which
+moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses
+are actually very low, and if they were to be carry’d higher, the Statue
+would look as if it were imprison’d in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was
+cast in _Paris_, and first carry’d by Water to _Auxerre_, where it
+remain’d a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a
+manner immoveable; but at last it was remov’d by Land Carriage to _Dijon_,
+but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it
+appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.
+
+This Statue faces the _King’s House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_,
+Governor of the Province. ’Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc’d
+Wings, but can only be reckon’d a very irregular Structure. I did not go
+to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish’d,
+and not worth the Trouble of a View.
+
+The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the
+vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there
+heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously
+accommodated.
+
+_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late
+Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was
+very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.
+
+The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really
+neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above
+civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their
+Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know
+what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him,
+puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists
+generally of Persons of Quality.
+
+The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_
+Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never
+comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count _de
+Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in
+his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.
+Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and
+I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a
+more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to
+which I was forc’d to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I
+went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall
+was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would
+have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it
+resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.
+
+From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of
+an Archbishop; and that’s all I can say of it, because I only staid there
+to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where
+the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially
+of Women, who all seem’d very much enrag’d. This was owing to a
+Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify’d her
+Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which
+induc’d her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was
+about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the
+scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a
+Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker’s Wife, who was
+old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband’s
+Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the
+very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for
+her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen’d just as
+I arriv’d at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed
+against the Baker’s Wife, and hurry’d the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women
+curs’d her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something
+perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their
+Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.
+
+FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pass’d thro’, is fourteen Leagues
+from _Paris_. There’s a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the
+Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for
+the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings
+from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to
+it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There’s a great
+Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent
+for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the
+cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus’d
+her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be
+assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters,
+which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach’d him for his
+Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy
+Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in
+vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an
+Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose:
+Indeed, rather than be oblig’d to manifest his Resentment, he chose to
+keep a profound Silence; but tho’ he dissembled it as much as possible,
+_Christina_ perceiv’d, that she had staid too long at his Court, and
+resolv’d to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died.
+
+But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant,
+grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_
+XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry’d the Queen by Proxy, at
+_Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a
+League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of
+the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.
+When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other,
+they advanc’d a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp’d; when their
+Majesties alighted, and walk’d to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen
+came near to the King, she kneel’d down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet,
+seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_
+rais’d her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her:
+The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv’d them with
+such a good-natur’d, modest Air, as prepossess’d the whole Court in her
+Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself
+on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac’d themselves
+according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late
+Duchess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ’d in
+the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to
+the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the
+Duchess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_,
+was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became
+general. When they arriv’d at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by
+the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen’s Closet: There the King
+talk’d; and after having stay’d about an Hour, he return’d to
+_Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out
+from thence.
+
+The next Morning, at Eight o’Clock, the Queen arriv’d at _Fontainebleau_,
+without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey.
+Being in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to
+the Toilet; when she was dress’d, Word was brought to her, that the King
+was arriv’d; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle
+of Gold Brocade, trimm’d with _Spanish_ Point of Gold, the whole enrich’d
+with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk’d the same
+Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow’d immediately after him,
+supported by the Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_: She was dress’d in a
+Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and
+the Tail of her Gown, were fac’d with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds;
+and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the
+Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and ’tis
+certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very
+grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn’d with a rich Suit of Hangings, of
+blue Velvet, imbroider’d with Gold. The Elector of _Cologne_, the
+Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, now Elector, the Duke _Ferdinand_, and the
+Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_, were present _incognito_ at the
+Ceremony. The Cardinal _de Rohan_ gave their Majesties the Nuptial
+Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Mass, the
+Duke of _Bourbon_, who perceiv’d it, gave her some Balm-water, by which
+her Majesty found immediate Relief.
+
+After Mass was ended, they return’d in great Ceremony to the Queen’s
+Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and
+Princesses din’d with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the
+Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be
+smother’d, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.
+
+When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang’d their Apparel, and took
+an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal,
+preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King’s
+Houshold, and follow’d by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses.
+But ’tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent
+than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their
+Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new
+Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted.
+
+When the King and Queen were return’d to the Palace, there was a
+Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp’d with the Princesses of
+the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their
+Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the
+Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir’d,
+but really appear’d trifling to us _Germans_, who are accustom’d to see
+Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that
+surpasses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the
+Rejoicings upon account of the King’s Marriage. They say there were great
+Illuminations and Bonfires also at _Paris_; but as I was at
+_Fontainebleau_, I did not see them. ’Tis certain tho’, that how much
+soever the _French_ were pleas’d with the Marriage of their King, they
+were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread
+cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. ’Tis no
+laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression,
+and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description
+of _Fontainebleau_.
+
+This Royal Palace is accompanied with a fine Park, which, tho’ not near so
+much adorned as the Park of _Versailles_, has remarkable Beauties, not to
+be met with in that. The great Canal is superb, and, generally speaking,
+the Palace of _Fontainebleau_, with all that environs it, has much more of
+the Air of a Royal Palace, than _Versailles_ and _Marly_. The Village or
+Town of _Fontainebleau_, for I know not which to call it, is very well
+built. Most of the Lords have great Houses here, where they put their
+Equipages and Domesticks; it being the Custom at the Court of _France_,
+for every Lord that belongs to the Court to be lodg’d in the King’s
+Palace; and the _French_ are so infatuated with this Practice, that a
+Nobleman had rather be lodg’d in a Manger at Court, than in an Apartment
+ever so commodious and magnificent, in his House at _Versailles_ and
+_Fontainebleau_.
+
+The Road from _Fontainebleau_ to _Paris_ is pav’d all the Way. There are a
+great many fine Houses on it, particularly PETITBOURG, belonging to the
+Duke _d’Antin_, to whom it came by Succession, from his Mother, the
+Marchioness _Montespan_. Very great Buildings have been erected there
+within these few Years, which have the Appearance of Magnificence and
+Grandeur; not to mention the rich Furniture, the Pleasures of the Park,
+and several other Things, so ingeniously chose, and so beautifully
+dispos’d, as are infinitely delightful.
+
+CHOISY, which belongs to the first Princess Dowager of _Conti_, Daughter
+of _Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_, is, to my thinking, one
+of the finest Houses in the Kingdom. ’Tis built intirely in the modern
+Taste, and stands by the River Side. The Apartments are richly adorn’d.
+The Garden which belongs to it is spacious, and several Alleys are cut
+out in it, which yield very fine Walks, and render _Choisy_ an inchanting
+Place. Were I to mention all the other fine Houses to you that are upon
+the Road, I should never have done. If you consult the _Delices de la
+France_, you will find a large Account of all those Houses, as well as of
+their Names and Situation. For my part, my Head akes so much at this
+Instant, that ’tis impossible for me to add any more: But in a few Days,
+you shall hear farther from me; and then I will give you some Account of
+_Paris_: In the meantime, believe me to be always Yours intirely, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Paris, April 1, 1732._
+
+Don’t imagine, that I am going to give you an exact Description of the
+City of PARIS; for that would be an Undertaking to as little Purpose, as
+it is beyond my Ability. PARIS has been so fully describ’d, and is so much
+talk’d of, that most People know what Sort of Place it is, though they
+have never seen it. Several Authors are so divided about the Antiquity of
+PARIS, that I can say nothing positive to you upon this Head. _Cæsar_, in
+his Commentaries, speaks very much in its Favour, and says, that in his
+Time, this City was call’d _Lutetia_. The Learned differ also about the
+Origin of this[41]Name; but I shall leave them to dispute this Matter as
+long as they please, and assure them, that I am not concerned in their
+Quarrel.
+
+According to Father _Daniel_, PARIS was the Capital City of _France_, in
+the Reign of _Clovis_, about the Year 507. But even then, PARIS was a
+Place of very little Consequence; and, if it be duly consider’d, could not
+be rank’d among the great Towns, before the Reign of _Philip Augustus_;
+That Prince made it his Endeavour to embellish it, and added Buildings to
+it, which at that Time were reckon’d very magnificent. Since his Reign,
+PARIS has always been the Seat of the Kings, and has been continually
+increasing in Grandeur and Beauty. But none of its Kings has contributed
+so much to the Magnificence of PARIS, as the Prince who least resided in
+it, I mean _Lewis_ XIV. who caus’d such Structures to be rais’d in it, as
+are worthy of the greatest Monarch in the World. Of some of these Works, I
+may hereafter give you a more particular Account.
+
+The _French_ pretend, that no City in _Europe_ contains so many
+Inhabitants as PARIS; but the _English_ say, the most populous is
+_London_; yet, without the least Hesitation, I determine it for the latter
+of the two Rivals. My Reason for it is this: At PARIS, eighteen or twenty
+thousand People die every Year, and at _London_ twenty-three or
+twenty-four thousand; tho’ I don’t dispute, but PARIS seems more populous:
+For in the latter, every body is to be seen in the Streets, either on Foot
+or in Coaches; whereas at _London_, Passengers are continually going up
+and down the _Thames_; which River is seldom without carrying forty or
+fifty thousand People, who, if diffus’d in the Streets, would make them
+look fuller of People than those of PARIS. Besides, what makes the Capital
+of _France_ appear to be more populous, is, that it has more Coaches and
+Carts; whereas at _London_, one always sees Goods going up or down the
+River; which is the Reason, that Carts are not so much in Use there: And
+most of the Ladies, instead of Coaches, ride in Sedans. But a _Frenchman_
+will tell me, you shall see five or six Families in one House at PARIS;
+whereas at _London_, they are seldom two. To this I shall answer, that
+’tis true, there are more Lodgers in the Houses of PARIS; but this stands
+for nothing, and only proves, that there are more Houses at _London_. At
+PARIS, there are many Hôtels, or great Houses, Convents, large Gardens,
+public Squares, Quays, and a River that runs through the Middle; all which
+takes up a great deal of Ground; and in several of the Suburbs, without
+which PARIS itself is but a little Place, there are intire Marshes. But at
+_London_,’tis quite otherwise, such Hôtels are uncommon there, and few
+Houses there have Courts to them. They are all very much pent up, and many
+a House at _London_ is not so big as the Halls in a great many of the
+Hôtels at PARIS.
+
+But what matters it, whether _London_ is bigger or less than PARIS? I
+shall now speak of the latter, not as the biggest, but as the most
+beautiful City in _Europe_. ’Tis reckon’d, there are in PARIS nine
+hundred Streets, with above twenty thousand Houses, of which four thousand
+have great Gates, and Courts to turn Coaches in. The Number of Inhabitants
+amounts to above eighty thousand; in which must be reckon’d one hundred
+and fifty thousand Domestics. There are at least twenty thousand Coaches,
+and near one hundred and twenty thousand Horses for Carriages of all
+Sorts, of which, one Year with another, ten thousand die. In fine, the
+very Expence of the Lanthorns, which are lighted nine Months in the Year,
+is computed at two hundred thousand Crowns at least. The common Revenues
+which the City of PARIS produces, are said to amount at least to
+twenty-eight Millions of Livres; a Sum, which, I believe, is not rais’d by
+some Kingdoms.
+
+PARIS enjoys all the Prerogatives that can be enjoy’d by the Capital of a
+powerful Kingdom. This City has not only the Reputation of being the
+Residence of Kings, but is the Seat of an Archbishop, a Parliament, an
+University, an Intendant, a Governor, and of all the Sovereign Courts in
+the Government. Its Metropolitan Church, which was heretofore no more than
+the See of a Bishop, Suffragan to the Archbishop of _Sens_, is dedicated
+to the Virgin _Mary_. St. _Denys_, who liv’d in the first Ages of
+Christianity, is own’d to be its Founder, or at least its first Bishop.
+Its first Archbishop was _Francis de Gondy_, who obtain’d that Dignity by
+a Bull of Pope _Gregory_ XV. in 1622. since which Time there have been
+seven Archbishops. Whoever is the Archbishop, has the Title of Duke of St.
+_Cloud_, and in that Quality is both Duke and Peer of _France_. The
+present Archbishop’s Name is _N. N. de Vintimille_ of the Counts _du Luc_.
+He succeeded _Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal _de Noailles_, and finds his Diocese
+as disobedient to his Mandates, as it was to those of his Predecessor.
+The good Prelate does all he can, to bring back his[42]stray’d Sheep; but
+it seems as if most of the _Parisians_ know not what they would be at; and
+indeed the greatest Number dispute about Matters, which they don’t
+understand. I find the Talk of all PARIS engross’d by two grand Subjects;
+I mean grand for the _Parisians_, and, if I may venture to say it, for the
+_French_ in general: For, to be plain, ’tis owing to the Want of something
+else to talk of during a long Peace, that they busy themselves very
+seriously about Things, which at other Times they would think unworthy of
+their Attention. The one is the Affair of Father _Girard_ and _la
+Cadiere_; the other, the pretended Miracles of the Abbé _Paris_. There is
+nothing so base, with which Knavery and a furious Zeal can inspire a
+Party, but what has been said and written on these Subjects. The Enemies
+of the _Jesuits_ have[43]invented, that Father _John Baptist Girard_, a
+Native of _Dole_ in _Franche Comté_, debauch’d one _la Cadiere_, who came
+to him for Confession; they prevail’d on the young Woman to accuse him of
+Crimes, the very Idea of which is shocking, and which the most resolute
+Villain would not dare perhaps to be guilty of, much less Father _Girard_;
+who, till accus’d of this Wickedness, had always _pass’d_ for an honest
+Man, whose Conduct and Morals had been edifying in Places where he had
+been, and particularly at _Toulon_, where nevertheless he is said to have
+committed the most horrid Enormities. But _la Cadiere_ has recanted; and
+the Parlement of _Aix_, before whom the Cause was pleaded, has declar’d
+Father _Girard_ innocent. Yet the _Jansenists_ exclaim, and wish that the
+King would cause the Members of that Parlement to be hang’d up, because
+they could not in Conscience bring in Father _Girard_ guilty.
+
+The following _Epigram_ is lately publish’d upon that Parlement:
+
+      _Pour avoir immolé le Fils du Tout-Puissant
+      +Pilate+ moins que vous nous parut detestable;
+      Il ne reçût point d’or pour punir l’Innocent,
+      Mais vous en recevez pour sauver le coupable._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+_Pilate_, tho’ he sacrific’d the Son of the Almighty, is even less
+detestable in our Eyes than you; for he receiv’d no Gold to punish the
+Innocent, but you take it to save the Guilty.
+
+                                Or thus:
+
+      _Of Judges that in Judgment sit,
+        Whether incurs most Banns,
+      He that for Gold doth Vice acquit,
+        Or Virtue +gratis+ damns?_
+
+      _+Pilate+, who sacrific’d the Son
+      Of the Almighty Lord,
+      Because no Golden Bribe he won,
+      Is less than you abhorr’d._
+
+Father _Girard_’s Adventure calls to my Mind a great Scandal of this
+Nature, that happen’d in the fourth Century, on Occasion of a Lady’s
+Confession to a Deacon; which obliged the Patriarch _Nectarius_ to abolish
+Auricular Confession throughout the _East_; as may be seen in the fourth
+Tome of _Fleuri_’s _Ecclesiastical History_. This Author, in his Sixteenth
+Tome, says, that in the twelfth Century there were Abbesses in _Spain_,
+who preach’d, gave Blessings, and confessed Persons of both Sexes. If this
+Practice was re-establish’d, there would be no Room to fear such Disorders
+and Scandals as have happen’d in _Provence_.
+
+The second Topic, which takes up a great deal of the _Parisians_
+Conversation, is the pretended Miracles of the Sieur _Paris_, to whose
+Tomb People flock as much as they could be suppos’d to do to the _Holy
+Sepulchre_ itself. Curiosity drew me thither as well as others; and I
+found such a vast Crowd of People, that ’twas with much ado I could get to
+the Stone which covers the Saint of the Populace. While I was looking at
+this Tombstone, I heard ’em cry behind, _Stand by, make Room there_; so
+that I thought some Prince of the Blood was coming; but ’twas no more than
+a mean-looking Fellow, who, with a very contrite Air, went and stretch’d
+himself on the Tomb; where he had not lain many Moments, but I saw him
+turn up the Whites of his Eyes, grind his Teeth, foam at the Mouth, and
+twist his Body into such Postures, that he look’d more like one that had
+the Devil in him, than the Favourite of a Saint. These Agitations lasted
+as long as the Man had any Strength; after which he was carry’d off, and
+I assure you, that when he was taken from the Tomb, he had a much more
+sickly Look than when he came to it. Nevertheless the People bawl’d out,
+_A Miracle!_ and I even heard it said, _Who can doubt one Moment, after so
+manifest a Cure as this, that +Paris+ is a Saint!_
+
+Such Miracles, as this that I have now related to you, are work’d here
+every Day: One can’t set a Foot into a House, without being entertain’d
+with some new Story plac’d to the Accompt of the Abbé _Paris_; yet I
+protest, that not one single Miracle has been prov’d: and M. _Herault_,
+the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whom all these Miracles are
+reported, said, in my Hearing, that there was not one of them true; that
+’twas a palpable Delusion; and that ’twas only tolerated, the better to
+trace it up to its Source, and to undeceive the Populace; which, I
+believe, will be no easy Matter, they are so much prepossess’d in Favour
+of their Saint. The only Way would be for the Pope to canonise the Sieur
+_Paris_, and then I am persuaded, that all the Devotees of this new Saint
+wou’d abandon him, rather than be in the Holy Father’s Mess. But here I
+leave both Father _Girard_ and the Abbé _Paris_, though perhaps I shall
+find an Opportunity of discovering all that I may hear of them to you,
+when I think it worthy of your Regard; but I shall be far from troubling
+you with every impertinent Tale that is reread about them; for I verily
+believe, that all the Songs and Verses that are made upon them wou’d form
+several Volumes: And it must be expected this Humour will last, till
+something new starts up to drown both these Subjects of present
+Conversation. I own to you, that I am very much in Pain to think what the
+_French_ can have to amuse them after this is over; for their Genius is
+such, that it must have something to work upon, tho’ ’tis happy for them
+that a mere Nothing suffices, and that such Nothing is always treated by
+them as a serious Affair, and proves to them an inexhaustible Fund of
+Something.
+
+You ask me, how I employ my Time here? which is a Question that is not
+very soon answer’d. My Amusements are of such various Kinds, that, to be
+plain with you, I find myself at a loss to account for them. I should
+often be very much puzzled to prove an _alibi_ of two Days. This Country
+is my Centre, and PARIS is to me the Spring of Youth. Never was any
+Reflection more mortifying to me, than the Thought that I am not in a
+Condition to fix my Habitation here; for tho’ I find Faults in the
+_French_, as well as in all other Nations, yet I acknowledge they have a
+thousand good Qualities; and I think them much more amiable at home than
+they are abroad, where, be a Man ever so much prepossess’d in their Favour
+upon other Accounts, he is surfeited with their eternal Criticisms, and to
+hear them incessantly remarking, _They don’t do so at +Paris+. You don’t
+see this in +France+_. Here they are polite, good-natur’d, humane, civil
+and engaging; and a Foreigner, who can bring himself ever so little into
+their Way of Thinking, Acting, and Speaking, will always be sorry to leave
+them.
+
+But I am not about giving you the Character of the _French_; what I am now
+to acquaint you with is, how I live with them. In a very irregular Course
+of Life, I aim at a certain Regularity: I rise very late, because I don’t
+go to Bed till Two or Three o’Clock in the Morning: When I am dress’d, I
+go to some Cabinet of Curiosities, some Library, or to some Structure or
+other, which, tho’ I have seen perhaps an hundred times, I revisit with
+Pleasure, because I always find some new Beauty in it. Such are the Hôtel
+or Hospital of the _Invalids_, founded and built by _Lewis_ XIV. _Val de
+Grace_, the Church which is the Repositary of the Hearts and Bowels of the
+Kings and Princes of the Royal Family, and was founded by _Anne_ of
+_Austria_, Mother to _Lewis_ XIV. the Choir of _Notre Dame_, adorn’d with
+Marble and Brass by _Lewis_ XIV. to fulfill a Vow made by King _Lewis_
+XIII. his Father; the _Louvre_, with all the Beauties it contains; and, in
+fine, a Number of other stately Fabrics, which I don’t mention or describe
+to you, because a thousand Authors have already given a better Account of
+them, than I am able to do. After having thus saunter’d away two or three
+Hours, I return home to Dinner; for I rarely dine abroad: When I have
+din’d, if I am alone, I read for an Hour or two; after which I go out,
+either to make Visits, or else to take the Air. I often go to their Plays,
+not only because I have a Taste that way, but to avoid Gaming; for you
+can’t go into a House, but they bring out the Cards. After the Comedy is
+over, which I am forc’d, whether I will or not, to prefer to the Opera, I
+go to some House, where there’s no saying nay, but I must make one at
+Quadrille, to ease me of my Money; for I know not what ’tis to win. I am
+entertain’d with a good Supper, and then I join in a second Party at
+Quadrille, and sometimes in a third; and go home at three o’Clock in the
+Morning, with an empty Pocket.
+
+This Itch for Gaming, which has infected the Generality of the _French_,
+is look’d upon as one of the Plagues of the Nation. I can’t imagine how
+’tis possible for People, who can scarce stay a Quarter of an Hour in one
+Place, but are generally restless where-ever they are, to sit five or six
+Hours together in cutting and shuffling the Cards. ’Tis however a
+necessary Evil, especially for a Foreigner, who must otherwise make a very
+silly Figure, till he is quite initiated in the Customs of the Country.
+The Ladies say of a Man who does not play, that he is a useless Piece of
+Lumber; and the most flaming Lovers cease to make Love, as soon as Cards
+are brought upon the Carpet.
+
+There are some Houses however, where this Passion for Gaming is not quite
+so prevalent; ’tis said too, that the Lawyers Houses are not so liable to
+the Contagion; but I own, I am not conversant enough with them to know the
+Difference. ’Tis certain, that at Court they play deeper than any-where,
+and very many of the Nobility have impair’d their Fortunes, for the sake
+of having the Honour to be one of a Party with the King. His Majesty
+commonly plays at Lansquenet; the Party consists of twelve Cutters, who
+set a _Lewis d’Or_ upon the Card. The King, and the principal Gamesters,
+as the Count _de Tholouse_, the Duke _d’Antin_, the Duke _de Grammont_,
+and the like, set two, and sometimes four _Lewis d’Ors_ upon a Stake. The
+King is reckon’d to have the best Luck of all that play in the Queen’s
+Apartment: Any body that is well dress’d is admitted to make one of the
+Company, which forms a great Court, tho’ a mix’d Assembly. All the Ladies
+sit round the Gaming-table, and the Men stand. The _French_ say, that
+Gaming sets every body upon a Level. There’s one _S. Remi_, who had been a
+Lacquey first to the Marshal _d’Estrée_’s Lady, and then to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_, who preferr’d him to be his _Valet de Chambre_, and at the
+Queen’s Arrival gave him a Post in her Majesty’s Houshold, which he held
+at the same time that he officiated as the Duke’s _Valet de Chambre_: I
+have seen this Man raise or fall the Mirth of the King’s Company at
+Pleasure; ’tis true, he does not cut; but he is at every Card, and makes
+very good Pastime. At _Fontainebleau_, I heard him one Day bet the King
+twenty _Lewis d’Ors_, upon his own Card against his Majesty’s. The King
+answer’d coolly, _No, Marquis_; which is a Nickname that his Majefty has
+given him, and may nevertheless be transmitted to the Posterity of this
+_S. Remi_, who is moreover Fop enough to be a Marquis.
+
+This Medley of People at Play has been the Custom in _France_ at all
+times. I remember to have heard the late Mother of the Regent say, That
+when she went upon a time from _Versailles_, where she resided with the
+King, to see her Husband, _Lewis_ XIV’s Brother, who was gone to spend a
+few Days at St. _Cloud_, she found him playing at Lansquenet with a dozen
+Cutters, of whom she knew but two; and when the Game was out, she ask’d
+her Husband, who the People were that he had been playing with: _They are
+very honest Fellows_, reply’d the Prince, _good substantial Tradesmen of
++Paris+, who play well, and for a great deal of Money_. The old Lady gave
+us moreover to understand, that she had not been at that time long in
+_France_, and that she was so vex’d to find her Husband in such Company,
+that she cou’d not forbear to upbraid him for it; but her Husband turn’d
+it all off with a Laugh, and made her Answer, _That she had still a Spice
+of the +German+ Haughtiness, but that it would wear off in Time_.
+
+’Tis certain however, that this Liberty, with which all Sorts of People
+are indulg’d, of coming in for a Game and away, renders them fawcy. That
+noted Comedian _Baron_, the greatest Coxcomb of all Men living before the
+_Quinaults_, was one Day at the House of the Prince _de Conti_, the same
+that had been chose King of _Poland_, where they were playing at
+Lansquenet. _Baron_, pulling his Purse out with a careless Air, said to
+the Prince, _Ten Lewis D’Ors upon the Knave, +M. de Conti+. Done,
++Britannicus+_, said the Prince _de Conti_, who knew that _Baron_ had
+been just acting that Part in a Play. It is certain, that at many of the
+Womens Houses, the Gamesters are as much pamper’d as a Father Confessor is
+by his Female Votary. A greet many Houses subsist here by the Emoluments
+of Gaming, where, were it not for the Money arising from their Cards,
+their Suppers would be very light, and many that now ride wou’d go on
+Foot. The Duke _de Gevres_, Governor of _Paris_, and the Prince _de
+Carignan_, who have a Grant for licensing all manner of Gaming, have
+farm’d it out, and get 120,000 Livres a-piece by it clear Money; which one
+shall hardly find in any City in the World.
+
+This Gaming puts me in mind of a Lottery they have here every Month, which
+is a Sort of Game too, where the Banker is the greatest Gainer. These
+Lotteries have been set on foot by the Parson of the Parish of St.
+_Sulpice_, to help build his Church, and twenty Sols is the Price of each
+Ticket; but they prove the utter Undoing of many a Lacquey and
+Maid-Servant; which made a Friend of mine say, that the Parson of St.
+_Sulpice_, out of Gratitude to the poor Devils, for burying their Wages in
+his Lottery, could do no less, when they die, than bury their Carcases for
+nothing. This Lottery is worth to the Parson about 20,000 Livres a Month,
+besides the Sums he gets from the pious Contributions of several Persons
+zealous for the House of God: Nevertheless these Works go on so slowly,
+that the Parson’s Trowel is not like to be laid aside yet-a-while, tho’,
+if his Church be ever finished, ’twill be the greatest and the finest in
+the Kingdom; for all the new Works are design’d by _Giles Maria Oppenord_,
+the Duke of _Orleans_’s chief Architect, and one of the most skilful of
+his Profession in _France_.
+
+The Parsonage of St. _Sulpice_ is the most considerable, not only of
+_Paris_, but perhaps of _Europe_; for it brings in the Parson as much as
+some good Dioceses do their Bishops. The Right of Presentation to it is in
+the Abbat and Friers of the Abbey of St. _Germain_. The present Incumbent
+is M. _Languet de Gergy_, who has one Brother that is Bishop of
+_Soissons_[44], and another now an Ambassador at _Venice_[45]. The
+Vigilance both of the Pastor, and of the Priests whom he employs for
+administring the Sacraments, cannot but be commended: The latter form a
+numerous Society, attend their Function with Application, and Divine
+Service is perform’d in the Church with very great Edification. The
+Society, and several Seminaries join’d to it, form together the most
+numerous Body of Clergy in all the Kingdom. The Seminary of St. _Sulpice_
+is one of the most frequented, because the Ecclesiastical Discipline is
+there taught and practis’d with Care; perhaps too, because Subjects are
+often taken from thence for the chief Dignities of the Church. Nothing is
+more edifying than to see the Procession of this Parish upon the Day of
+_Corpus Christi_, when there’s a numerous Appearance of the Clergy in
+magnificent Copes: The Canopy, under which the Holy Sacrament is carry’d,
+is extraordinary rich. Twenty-four young Clergymen go before the Holy
+Sacrament, and twelve always walk backward, perfuming the Host, as they
+go, with Censers of Silver. There is not a Procession in the Kingdom that
+is made with more Dignity and Order[46]. With your Favour, I will conclude
+this Letter with the bare Mention of this Sacred Ceremony. As I propose
+to go to-morrow to _Versailles_, I shall send you what Observations I make
+there. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XL.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Versailles, April 15, 1732._
+
+I have been now just ten Days at _Versailles_, where I have had the Honour
+of greeting the King and Queen, and all the Royal Family. I perceiv’d the
+King since his Marriage is grown very fat, but he is still one of the
+finest Princes in _Europe_. It may be said of _Lewis_ XV. that he is a
+Prince born without Vice, and free from that Haughtiness, which is
+commonly attach’d to Royalty: He is familiar with his Courtiers, reserv’d
+to Persons that are unknown to him, and particularly to Ambassadors, and
+more secret and circumspect than Persons of his Age. He has the Morals,
+Behaviour, and Sentiments of a good Man, and from thence _France_ may
+expect his Reign will be gentle and peaceful. It appears, as if _Lewis_
+XV. will be content with the Government of one of the most powerful
+Monarchies of the World, and that he will not be inclin’d to disturb
+_Europe_, for the sake of conquering a Town or a Province. He has been
+educated in such Sentiments of Justice, that his Neighbours ought not to
+be afraid of him, since God has undoubtedly chose him to be one of the
+Arbitrators of _Europe_, in order for the Preservation, and not for the
+Destruction of Equity: _Lewis_ the _Pacific_ and the _Debonaire_ will be
+his distinguishing Titles: Must not these be dearer to his Subjects, than
+the bloody Title of _Lewis_ the _Conqueror_? And may he not be great, and
+at the same time a Lover of Peace? Hitherto the King seems to follow the
+Plans of Government chalk’d out by the late Duke of _Burgundy_, his
+Father, whose Wisdom is still rever’d by _France_. God grant that he may
+always take them for his Models, and that his Reign may be long, and end
+as glorious as it begun!
+
+I never cast my Eyes upon _Lewis_ XV. without admiring the Providence
+which has preserv’d him, contrary to the People’s Expectation. I have had
+the Honour to see him Duke of _Anjou_, his Brother, the Duke of
+_Bretagne_, being then alive. I have seen him the Dauphin of _France_, and
+at length I have seen him on the Throne: He had at one time a pale
+Complexion, which did not promise long Life. What Diseases has he not
+labour’d under! yet he now enjoys a perfect State of Health, and the
+Crown, which was so likely to devolve to collateral Branches, is
+establish’d upon the Head of this young Prince, and like to descend to his
+own Posterity. In fine, a King of _France_, Father of five Children living
+before he is twenty Years of Age, is such a Phænomenon as is hardly to be
+parallell’d in antient or modern History, and ’tis in my Opinion more
+extraordinary even than the advanc’d Age, and the long Reign of his
+Great-Grandfather.
+
+The Queen is a Princess of exemplary Virtue, whose sole Application is to
+discharge her Duties to God, the King, and her Children: She is extremely
+gracious and civil, and has a great Happiness of expressing herself in the
+_French_, _German_, and _Polish_ Languages: She had formerly a great Taste
+for Music, and is now fond of Reading; but being entirely conformable to
+her Husband’s Sentiments, she takes no manner of Share in the Government:
+She loves no Pageantry nor Ceremony, and the Rank of being the first Queen
+in the World seems to have no other Effect upon her, than to render her
+Virtues more venerable and conspicuous.
+
+As for the Children of _France_, they are as yet too young to be
+characteris’d. Mean time I assure you, ’tis a fine Sight to see them going
+to the Queen’s Apartment, or running along the Gallery, with at least
+forty Attendants in their Train, including the Ladies and Chambermaids.
+The Person intrusted with the Care of the Education of the Children of
+_France_ is the Duchess _de Ventadour_; but as she is very far advanced in
+Years, and not able to be with them every-where, the Duchess of _Tallard_,
+her Grand-daughter, is join’d with her in the Commission. This Lady is the
+Daughter of the Prince _de Rohan_, Brother to the Cardinal: The Choice
+which has been made of her to succeed the Duchess of _Ventadour_, has been
+applauded by the whole Court; and in short, there are few Ladies that have
+a more noble Carriage, more Politeness, and sublimer Sentiments: And ’tis
+very remarkable, that since the Birth of the Dauphin, _Lewis_ XIVth’s only
+Son, the Mother, the Daughter, and the Grand-daughter have always been
+trusted with the Education of the Children of _France_.
+
+Her Royal Highness, the Widow of the Regent, who is Daughter to _Lewis_
+XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_, is the first in Rank at Court, and she is
+the only Princess that has a Right to sit at Table with their Majesties,
+when they dine in State; but ’tis a Prerogative that she does not often
+make use of, because she has such a Dislike to Dress, that she appears
+little at Court; and when she comes to the King or Queen, ’tis in private:
+She commonly resides at _Paris_, or at _Bagnolet_[47]: She is the only
+Princess of the Kingdom that has Guards, and enjoys the Honours of a
+Daughter of _France_. King _Lewis_ XIV. granted all these great
+Distinctions to the late Duke of _Orleans_, in Favour of this Marriage, to
+which that Prince agreed against the Consent of his late Father, and the
+express Prohibition of his Mother; who was so exasperated against her Son,
+for not resisting _Lewis_ XIVth’s Will and Pleasure, that she lifted up
+her Hand against him, when he told her that he was just marry’d, would not
+see her Daughter-in-law for a long time, and never could endure the
+Thoughts of the Match, till she saw her Grand-daughter marry’d to the Duke
+of _Berry_. Since that time, she has not been so strongly prejudic’d
+against her, but acknowledges her Royal Highness’s Virtues, and always
+kept a good Correspondence with her. This Princess lives very retir’d in
+the Midst of the Court, and is very much employ’d in Works of Piety.
+
+Her Son, the Duke of _Orleans_, is a Prince of exemplary Devotion, being
+almost continually at Prayer, or performing Works of Charity: He made two
+or three Attempts to retire from the World, but the King thinking his
+Presence necessary in his Council, would not consent to it. His most
+serene Highness is the first Prince of the Blood, and Governor of
+_Dauphiny_; and he was once Colonel and Captain General of the _French_
+Infantry, but he resign’d that Post some Years ago. This Prince marry’d
+the Princess of _Baden_, by whom he has a Son styl’d Duke of _Chartres_, a
+hopeful young Prince, who is educated at St. _Cloud_, remote from the
+Grandeur and Hurry of the Court.
+
+The Duke of _Orleans_ has also four Sisters in the Kingdom, the eldest of
+whom is the Abbess _de Chelles_, who was formerly styl’d Mademoiselle _de
+Chartres_. This Princess, in spite of all the Persuasions of the late
+Regent and the Duchess, who did their utmost to divert her from it, took
+the Habit of a Nun, tho’ she was one of the most amiable Princesses in
+_Europe_, and might have made a great Prince happy.
+
+The second Sister is the Queen of _Spain_, the Dowager of _Lewis_ I. whom
+she marry’d when he was Prince of _Asturias_, before his Father resign’d
+the Crown of _Spain_ to him; but the young King did not live long to enjoy
+it, and after his Death, the young Queen Dowager having a Desire to return
+to _France_, their Catholic Majesties consented to it, and the King of
+_France_ allow’d her the Castle of _Vincennes_ to reside in, where for
+some time she liv’d: She had not been there many Weeks, when she receiv’d
+a Visit from the King, who said, before he went, that his Visit would be
+short. _I am not very talkative_, said his Majesty, _and they say, that
+the Queen of +Spain+ does not talk at all; so that I don’t believe we
+shall have much Conversation_: And indeed the Visit was very short. The
+Queen receiv’d the King at the Step of the Coach, and the King taking her
+by the Hand, led her into his Chamber, where two Arm-Chairs were plac’d
+for them under a Canopy. The King seated himself on the Right Hand, and
+after a few Words spoke by the Duke _de Bourbon_, and the Duke _de
+Noailles_, who, as Captain of the Guards, stood behind the King’s Chair,
+his Majesty rose, and went away with the same Ceremonies as he came. Some
+time after this, the Queen of _Spain_ went to visit the King, when her
+Guards were plac’d in all the Posts of _Versailles_, the King’s Guards
+being order’d to make room for them. The King receiv’d the Queen as she
+alighted from the Coach, and every thing pass’d with the same Formality as
+at _Vincennes_. The Queen of _Spain_, after some Stay at the Castle of
+_Vincennes_, went to live in those Apartments at _Luxembourg_, which had
+been the Residence of her Sister the Duchess of _Berry_; but some time ago
+she retir’d to a Convent, and her Family, which was at first exceeding
+numerous, was very much reduc’d. If we except the vain Honours of Royalty,
+she would have been far more happy, if she had never been a Queen; for
+then she might have marry’d again; whereas now she must continue a Widow,
+and pass the Prime of her Days in Solitude and Retirement.
+
+The third Sister of the Duke of _Orleans_ is Mademoiselle _de Beaujolois_,
+who was design’d as a Match for the Infante, Don _Carlos_; but when the
+Infanta of _Spain_ was sent back from _France_, return’d to this Kingdom
+with the Queen, her Sister: She is one of the most beautiful and most
+amiable Princesses upon Earth, worthy to reign, and worthy of the
+Infante[48].
+
+Mademoiselle _d’Orleans_[49], her Sister, is a very charming Princess,
+with an exceeding graceful Air, and Behaviour fully answerable to her
+Birth.
+
+Next to the Family of _Orleans_, the first in Rank is that of _Conde_,
+which consists of three Princes, and six Princesses: The Duke _de Bourbon_
+is the chief, who is great Steward of the King’s Houshold, and Governor of
+_Burgundy_, His Highness lost one Eye in Hunting, by an unfortunate Shot
+from the Duke of _Berry_: He was marry’d very young to Mademoiselle _de
+Conti_ his Cousin, who died without Issue. He was also but young when he
+made the Campaigns in _Germany_, in Company with his Brother-in-law the
+Prince of _Conti_. After the Decease of _Lewis_ XIV. the Duke went to Law
+with the legitimated Princes, and caus’d the Duke _de Maine_ to be
+degraded from the Rank of Prince of the Blood, to which he had been
+promoted by an Arret solemnly register’d in Parliament during the Life of
+the late King. The Duke of _Bourbon_ demanded, as first Prince of the
+Blood, whom he then represented, by reason of the tender Age of the Duke
+of _Chartres_, now Duke of _Orleans_, to have the Superintendance of the
+King’s Education, to which Post the Duke _de Maine_ had been nominated by
+the late King’s last Will: He obtain’d his Demand, and the Duke _de Maine_
+retir’d to _Seaux_. The Duke _de Bourbon_ had after this a great Share in
+the Affairs of the Regency, and the Duke of _Orleans_ took care to keep
+him in good Humour. At the unexpected Death of the Regent, the Duke, being
+then at _Versailles_, went to the King, and demanded the Post of Prime
+Minister, vacant by the Death of his Royal Highness, and obtain’d it. The
+late M. _de la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State, being perhaps a little too
+forgetful of his Obligations to the Son of a Prince who had heap’d Favours
+upon him, drew up the Patent instantly, and caus’d it to be sign’d by the
+King, before the Duke of _Chartres_, who was at the Opera at _Paris_,
+could hear the News of his Father’s Death; so that tho’ he went Post to
+_Versailles_, and demanded the Office of First Minister, the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ told him, that the King had dispos’d of it to himself. The Duke
+was no sooner vested with the Authority of Prime Minister, than he made
+great Alterations in the Government; but these are the Subject of History
+rather than of a Letter. M. _le Blanc_, who had been Secretary at War,
+and was the Darling of the Officers, was committed to the _Bastille_; and
+M. _de Breteuil_, who had been formerly Master of the Requests, and
+Intendant of _Tours_, succeeded him in that Office; which was the
+Consequence of a Misunderstanding, or rather a Hatred, between two Ladies,
+who were the Mistresses, the one of the Duke of _Bourbon_, the other of M.
+_le Blanc_. All the Friends of the latter, among whom was M. the Count _de
+Belle-Isle_, shared in his Disgrace. The four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_ had the Management of the Finances, of which Brothers two had been
+Soldiers in the Guards; but they had the Cunning to extricate themselves
+from that melancholy State, and to render themselves necessary to the
+Government during the Time of the Regency. M. _d’Argenson_ Keeper of the
+Seals had been their Patron, and rais’d them upon the Ruins of Mr. _John
+Law_, and his System. Whatever was done by these Brothers is foreign to my
+Purpose: Their rapid Fortune drew Envy upon them, and they soon became the
+Objects of the public Hatred.
+
+The most remarkable Transactions of the Duke’s Administration, were the
+sending back of the Infanta, and the Marriage of the King. The Duke,
+foreseeing the Inconveniencies to which _France_ would be liable, if the
+King should die without Issue, thought it best to prevent so fatal an
+Accident, which it had not been possible for him to have done without
+marrying the King. The Infanta of _Spain_ was a Child, and it would be at
+least eight Years before they could hope for any Issue from her; whereas
+by marrying the King to another speedily, there was a Chance of having a
+Dauphin very soon, who would secure the Tranquillity of the Kingdom. His
+most Serene Highness therefore propos’d this Affair to the Council, which
+at first he found very much divided about it; for they were apprehensive
+of the Resentment of the King of _Spain_, and the Duke himself was
+heartily sorry, that he was under a Necessity of giving their Catholic
+Majesties just Cause of Disgust for the sake of the public Good: The
+Council being at last agreed, they pass’d a Resolution unanimously to send
+back the Infanta. This was accordingly notified to the Court of _Spain_,
+where News so unexpected was receiv’d with all the Indignation possible.
+The Infanta was sent back. The Duchess of _Tallard_ had the Care of
+conducting her to the _Spanish_ Frontier. All the Honours due to the
+Daughter of a great King were paid to this Princess, and every thing that
+could be thought of, was done to soften the Displeasure of their Catholic
+Majesties for her Return. All _France_ murmur’d in secret at the Departure
+of this Princess; for she had won the Hearts of all who had seen her, by a
+Behaviour and a Genius so vastly above one of her Age, that they
+prognosticated she would one Day be a great Queen. Not long after she was
+sent away, the King was married to a Princess so happy in Childbearing,
+that Heaven thereby seems to applaud what the Duke has done, and the
+People, quite forgetting the Infanta, bless his Name.
+
+The King, after he had been married a few Months, thought it was not
+convenient for a Prince of the Blood to have the Direction of his Affairs;
+and therefore he displac’d the Duke of _Bourbon_ from the Post of Prime
+Minister, and made the late Bishop of _Frejus_, now the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, the sole Depositary of his Authority. The Duke receiv’d Orders to
+retire to _Chantilly_, a Seat he has near _Senlis_; and there his Friends
+put it into his Head to marry a second Wife: Several Princesses were
+propos’d to him, but he determin’d his Choice for _Eleonora_ of
+_Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister of the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_[50]; and the Brother of this Princess, having a Proxy sent to
+him from the Duke, married her at _Rotenbourg_, in Presence of the Count
+_de Gasse_, whom the Duke had sent to assist in his Name at this Ceremony.
+The young Duchess no sooner arriv’d in _France_, but her Beauty, and the
+Charms both of her Person and Mind, made her admir’d by the whole Court,
+of which she is now one of the principal Ornaments: She is belov’d and
+respected by all Mankind, and every body pities her, that the Duke has not
+all that Tenderness for her which she deserves, and which it were to be
+wish’d he had for the Support of the _Conde_ Family, of which the two only
+Princes remaining, _viz._ the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_, are
+not married.
+
+The Count _de Charolois_ is tall, handsome, and well-set: His Entrance
+upon the Stage of Action was much taken Notice of; for a Thirst after
+Glory was the Passion of his Soul, as soon as he came to the Years of
+Understanding. The War being kindled in _Hungary_, and Prince _Eugene_ of
+_Savoy_ having gain’d a Victory near _Temiswar_, which reviv’d that Hero’s
+Reputation in _France_, the Count _de Charolois_ had a mind to learn the
+Art of War under so great a Master, and to make the Campaign which
+immediately follow’d that of _Temiswar_; but he did not dare to discover
+his Intention, and fearing that he should not obtain the Consent, either
+of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, the Duchess his Mother, or the Duke
+his Father, he resolv’d to set out privately, being sure that he should be
+applauded for his Undertaking, if he could be so happy as to put it in
+Execution. He imparted his Design in Confidence to M. _de Billy_, one of
+his Gentlemen, and to _Renault_ his first _Valet de Chambre_, and with
+these two Attendants he set out from _Chantilly_ on Pretence of Hunting.
+He travell’d five or six Post-Stages with the very Horses that belonged to
+the Duke his Father; after which he left them to the Care of the
+Post-master, and hir’d fresh Horses, with which he reach’d _Liege_; where
+he rested some Days, and having provided himself with Linen, went to the
+Court of the Elector of _Cologn_, whom he had known in _France_: His first
+Visit at _Bonn_, was at the House of M. _de S. Maurice_, the Elector’s
+Prime Minister; but he did not find him at home. M. _de Billy_ thereupon
+desir’d to speak with his Lady, and told her, that a certain Punctilio of
+Honour had oblig’d him to come from _France_ with the young Gentleman in
+his Company; but Madame _de S. Maurice_, not thinking he was a Prince of
+the Blood, and taking the Count _de Charolois_ for some petty Officer,
+gave him a very cold Reception: However, she sent for her Husband, who was
+then attending the Elector’s Person; and when the Count _de S. Maurice_
+came, he presently knew the Count _de Charolois_, paid him all due
+Respects, and hasten’d to notify his Arrival to the Elector, who at first
+was concern’d to hear it, because his Electoral Highness knew not but he
+might disoblige the Court of _France_ by receiving the Count, who he
+imagin’d had left the Kingdom upon some Disgust. Nevertheless, after
+reflecting with himself, that whatever the Count _de Charolois_ might have
+done, the Court of _France_ could not be angry with him for paying a
+Regard to his Quality as Prince of the Blood, he sent to invite him to his
+Palace. The Count went thither accordingly, by the Name of the Count _de
+Dammartin_, which he always travell’d With as long as he was absent from
+the Kingdom. The Elector receiv’d him With all the Marks of the highest
+Esteem, kept him several Days at his Court, and then furnish’d him with
+Money for his Journey to _Munich_; where he no sooner arriv’d, but he
+wrote to the Duke his Father to send him Remittances, and the necessary
+Equipages for the Campaign which he was then going to make.
+
+Tho’ the Count _de Charolois_ did not find the Elector of _Bavaria_ at
+_Munich_, yet he was as well receiv’d as if he had been there; and the
+Electress, tho’ he had not been to see her, no sooner heard of his
+Arrival, but she order’d all due Honours to be paid to him. When the
+Elector return’d to _Munich_, he was overjoy’d to find this Prince there,
+and offer’d to make his Peace in _France_, in which he succeeded so far,
+as to get his Departure out of the Kingdom approv’d by the Duchess and the
+Regent. When the Count’s Domestics were arriv’d, he set out for _Hungary_,
+and pass’d through _Vienna_ without saluting the Emperor, or the Empress
+Dowager his Cousin German. The Empress Was so offended at it, that she
+wrote to her Aunt, who was the Prince’s Grandmother, and signified to that
+Princess, that she did not think it handsome for a Prince of such Descent
+as the Count _de Charolois_, to pass through _Vienna_ to serve in the
+Imperial Army, without having seen the Emperor. The Count’s Relations did
+not fail to reproach him for his Want of Respect to their Imperial
+Majesties. He excus’d himself, by saying that he did not know what
+Treatment he ought to expect; but the Answer he receiv’d, was an Order
+from the Regent in the King’s Name, to wait on their Imperial Majesties as
+he return’d from the Campaign.
+
+He signaliz’d himself in it very much, but with so little Care of his
+Person, that Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ often reproach’d him for it: He
+took a Pleasure to go up to the very Breast-work of the Trenches; and
+from thence with Screw-Guns he fir’d at the _Turks_, as if he had been
+shooting at small Birds: On the other hand the _Turks_ did not spare him,
+but sent their Balls whizzing about his Ears in Return for his Frolic. The
+Count was present at the Battle of _Belgrade_, and saw that Place taken:
+He afterwards went to _Vienna_, and staid there some Weeks, where he had
+an Audience of the Emperor, not _incognito_, but as the Count _de
+Charolois_. The Emperor receiv’d him at the _Favourita_ standing: His
+Audience was attended with this odd Circumstance. The Count, being not
+acquainted with the Ceremonial, did not know that he should find the
+Emperor all alone; and therefore, when he enter’d the Closet, and saw a
+Man in a very plain Dress leaning with his Back against a Table, he took
+him for some private Gentleman; but in a few Moments he spy’d the Golden
+Fleece: He was doubtful in his Mind, after all, whether ’twas the Emperor;
+but he advanc’d, saying within himself, that in either case there was not
+much Harm in being mistaken. The Emperor receiv’d him with very great
+Marks of Distinction, and the Count kiss’d his Hand, because he had been
+told it was the Custom, and that all the Princes of the Empire did the
+same. He afterwards went to the Apartment of the Empresses, and had
+reason, where-ever he came, to be satisfied with his Reception.
+
+From _Vienna_ he return’d to _Munich_, after which he made the Tour of
+_Italy_, and lodg’d at _Rome_ at the House of the Cardinal _de
+Tremouille_, who had then the Care of the Affairs of _France_. After
+having repass’d the Mountains, he came back to _Munich_, where he stay’d a
+Year and an half, being always lodg’d and defray’d, together with his
+Retinue, at the Expence of his Electoral Highness, who kept a Table for
+him for twelve Guests, besides Hunting-Equipage, and Horses at his
+Command.
+
+Hunting is this Prince’s chief Amusement since he return’d to _France_: He
+appears seldom at Court, and neither meddles nor makes with Affairs of
+State. They talk often of getting him a Wife; but he does not seem to have
+any more Goût for the Sacrament of Marriage, than his younger Brother the
+Count _de Clermont_, a young Prince of a lovely Person, a sweet Nature,
+and who seems to have a way of Thinking becoming his Birth. They who
+approach him, and know him intimately, have assur’d me, that he has all
+the Qualities that can be to form hereafter a great Prince. It seems as if
+he were design’d for the Church, since his most Serene Highness actually
+enjoys several considerable Abbeys; but hitherto this Prince dresses in
+the Lay Habit, and performs no Spiritual Function. While I was speaking of
+the Count _de Charolois_, I forgot so tell you, that he is Governor of _la
+Touraine_, in which Honour he succeeded the late M. _Dangeau_, first
+Gentleman-Usher to the late Duchess of _Burgundy_. In his time _la
+Touraine_ was not reckon’d among the great Governments; but as the Regent
+was willing to give one to the Count _de Charolois_, after having granted
+away the Reversions of all the great Governments, he thought of no other
+Expedient, than to put _la Touraine_ in the Rank of the other Provinces.
+
+The three Princes that I have just mention’d, are the Sons of Madame the
+Duchess (of _Bourbon_) the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. and Madame
+_de Montespan_; She is a Princess who has been cry’d-up in _Europe_ for
+her Wit, Beauty, and the Charms of her Person. Tho’ she is the Mother of a
+numerous Family, she may still be reckoned among the Beauties of the
+Court; and ’tis certain, that when the Duchess is with the Princesses her
+Daughters, she seems rather to be their Sister than the Mother. This
+Princess is immensely rich, those who manage her Affairs having acquir’d
+a vast Estate in the contagious Actions of the _Missisippi_. She lives
+with very great Magnificence, and has lately caus’d a Palace to be built,
+which may be rank’d with the finest Structures in _Europe_. Her most
+Serene Highness is often at _Chantilly_ with the Duke her Husband, but the
+rest of her Time she divides betwixt the Court and City.
+
+The Princess of _Conti_ the second Dowager, the Princesses of _Charolois_,
+_Clermont_ and _Sens_, are her Daughters, and form one of the most
+beautiful Families that ever was. ’Tis pity that Princesses so beautiful
+and accomplish’d are not well match’d, but their Greatness is a Bar to
+their Settlement in Marriage; besides, this Century has been more prolific
+every-where in Princesses than in Princes. The Princess of _Conti_, who
+has some Thoughts of a Wife for the Prince her Son, has just bought the
+fine House which was built by the Count _de Belle-Isle_, out of the vast
+Sums which he got by _Missisippi_ Stock; there she proposes to end her
+Days, and she already appears but seldom at Court, which indeed the
+Trouble of Dressing hinders a great many Princesses and Ladies from
+frequenting. The Princess of _Conti_ was very young when she married, and
+has had two Sons; but there’s only one of them living, whom in his
+Father’s Life-time was styl’d the Count _d’Alais_, and is now the Prince
+of _Conti_[51].
+
+As for Mademoiselle _de Charolois_, all the Charms imaginable are united
+in her Person: She has a noble Aspect, a very lively sparkling Wit, and of
+all the Duchess’s Daughters she is the most like her Mother, and has the
+most sprightly Ideas. During the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, when
+Money was become extraordinary scarce, Mademoiselle _de Charolois_
+appear’d at the Royal Palace with two _Lewis d’Ors_ in her Ears for
+Pendants; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ asking her the Meaning of that
+new Fashion, she made him Answer, that she found _Lewis d’Ors_ scarcer
+than Diamonds, and that therefore she wore them as such. Mademoiselle _de
+Charolois_ lives in the little Hôtel _de Bourbon_, which formerly belong’d
+to _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ the Palatine, the Widow of _Henry Julius_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conde_, Grandmother to the Princes and Princesses of
+the _Conde_ Family. This Princess has a Family here independent on Madame
+the Duchess (of _Bourbon_); but she generally follows the Court, and as
+she is very fond of Hunting, and rides well, she makes one at all the
+King’s Matches.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Clermont_ is not only very beautiful, but has an Air of
+Quality, good Nature and Modesty, which distinguishes her from all the
+Grandees of the Court. Calumny, which does not always favour the Royal
+Blood here, could never shed its Venom upon this Princess, and the whole
+Court ever admir’d her for her Sobriety and Virtue. She is Superintendante
+of the Queen’s Houshold, and went in this Quality with the Ladies of
+Honour to meet her Majesty at _Strasbourg_.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Sens_, with her Beauty, is both graceful and modest: She
+was brought up under her Grandmother the Princess; and after her Decease,
+the Duchess of _Brunswic_, her Great Aunt, Mother to the Empress _Amelia_,
+who spent her latter Years in _France_, had the Care of her Education, and
+form’d her one of the most amiable Princesses upon the Earth.
+
+The _Conti_ Family, which is the third Branch of the Princes of the Blood,
+consists at this time of two Dowager Ladies, a young Prince, and a
+Princess, call’d Mademoiselle _de la Roche-sur-yon_. The Princess of
+_Conti_, the first Dowager Lady, is the legitimated Daughter of King
+_Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_: This Princess is celebrated
+for her Beauty, Wit, and noble Air, which she still retains: She happen’d
+to be a Widow when she was very young. Some say that the King of _Morocco_
+demanded her in Marriage, but I have been assur’d by many People, that
+’tis a mere Fiction. Be this as it will, such a Match was not practicable;
+for tho’ Religion had been altogether out of the Question, King _Lewis_
+XIV. would never have sacrific’d a Daughter so dear to him, and one who
+was the Ornament of his Court, to a _Marabou_[52]. The Princess of
+_Conti_, since the Death of her Brother the Dauphin, has not appear’d in
+public, and only visits the King and Queen privately in their Majesties
+Closet. Her Occupations are Works of Piety and Charity, and her Life is an
+Example of Virtue: She commonly resides in her Hôtel at _Paris_, which is
+beautiful and magnificent, and formerly belong’d to the Marshal-Duke _de
+Lorges_.
+
+The legitimated Princes, Sons of _Lewis_ XIV. are the Duke _de Maine_, and
+the Count _de Tholouse_. The former is Grand Master of the Ordnance,
+Colonel-General of the _Swiss_ and _Grisons_, and Governor of _Guienne_:
+He married _Louisa-Benedictina_ of _Bourbon-Condé_, by whom he has two
+Sons and a Daughter. The Duke _de Maine_ possesses the Sovereignty of
+_Dombes_, which the late Mademoiselle, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_,
+Son of _Henry_ IV. left him by Will. This Prince signaliz’d his Valour in
+his Youth: He has the Misfortune to halt, but he has a superior Genius,
+and is a Man of true Christian Piety. The late King distinguish’d him
+above all his Children, of which he gave an illustrious Proof, when he
+appointed him Superintendant of the Education of _Lewis_ XV. and when he
+made him a Sharer in the Authority of the Regency, together with the Duke
+of _Orleans_, whom he would have been glad to have intirely excluded from
+it, if his Royal Highness’s Birth had not given him an absolute Title to
+it. Some Years before this, the said King, by a Declaration the most
+solemnly register’d that ever any was, had recognis’d the Ability of the
+Duke _de Maine_, the Count _de Tholouse_, and their Posterity, to succeed
+to the Crown on Failure of Issue by the lawful Princes. The Princes of the
+Blood, in Complaisance to _Lewis_ XIV. before whom every Knee was bow’d,
+did not oppose a Declaration so little for their Honour: But in the
+Beginning of _Lewis_ XVth’s Reign they commenced a Suit upon it against
+the legitimated Princes. The Arret which call’d them to the Succession of
+the Crown was revok’d, and the Count _de Tholouse_ was the only one that
+retain’d for his Life the Honours that were annex’d to the Dignity of
+Prince of the Blood. The Duke _de Maine_ and his Children were depriv’d of
+these great Prerogatives, and reduc’d to the Rank of their Peerage. Some
+Years after, however, it pleas’d the King to restore those Honours to the
+Duke _de Maine_, and to his Sons the Prince of _Dombes_, and the Count
+_d’Eu_; but these Princes continue excluded from the Crown.
+
+I have already acquainted you how the Duke of _Bourbon_ depriv’d the Duke
+_de Maine_ of the Superintendance of _Lewis_ XVth’s Education: But that
+was not the only Circumstance that mortified him; for at that Juncture the
+Point that seem’d to be solely in View, was to undo every thing that had
+been done by _Lewis_ XIV. And the Duke, together with his Employments and
+Honours, also lost his Liberty. He was accus’d of holding a Correspondence
+with the Prince _de Cellamare_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador, who endeavour’d
+to excite the _French_ to a Rebellion against the Regent, by promising
+them Assistance from the King his Master: Hereupon the Duke _de Maine_ was
+arrested, and committed Prisoner to _Dourlens_ in _Picardy_, where he was
+closely confin’d. They who are not the most zealous of this Prince’s
+Friends, agree that he supported this Reverse of Fortune with an heroic
+Constancy. I heard it said by the People who were set to watch him, that
+they never saw him once deviate from that Serenity of Mind, and that good
+Nature which accompany all his Actions. But the Duchess of _Maine_ did not
+receive the News of his Disgrace with the same Tranquillity; for being
+born with all the high Spirit of the Great _Conde_ her Grandfather, she
+rav’d against the Regent, but especially against her Nephew the Duke, whom
+she look’d upon as the Author of her Misfortunes. They say moreover, that
+the Duke _de Maine_ himself was rattled by her before he was confin’d.
+’Twas on the Day that _Lewis_ XV. came to the Parlement to hold his first
+Bed of Justice, when the Duke _de Maine_ was turn’d out of that Share
+which the late King’s last Will gave him in the Regency. As this Duke came
+home from the Parlement, he found his Wife in the utmost Impatience to
+know what had been done; of which when he had given her an exact Account,
+the Duchess could not bridle her Passion, but looking on her Husband with
+Indignation, she said, _I have nothing left then to possess, but the Shame
+of having married you!_ When she received Orders to quit to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ that Apartment which she had in the _Thuilleries_, while the
+Duke _de Maine_ was Superintendant of the King’s Education; _Yes_, said
+she, _I will quit it with a Vengeance_, and at the same time order’d it to
+be stripp’d quite bare of Furniture; and for the more Haste she dash’d the
+Looking-glasses, China, and all Goods of that Sort in Pieces.
+Nevertheless, when she was apprehended, and during the Time that she was
+detain’d, she was not heard to utter a Complaint or a Murmur; but
+supported her Disgrace with that Magnanimity for which she is admir’d, a
+Quality which elevates her so far above other Women, and sets her on a Par
+with the greatest Men.
+
+The Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ are often at _Seaux_, a fine House but a
+little Distance from _Paris_, on the high Road to _Orleans_, built by
+_John Baptist Colbert_. Here they have always a gay Court. This Duchess is
+so much in Love with the Arts and Sciences, that all Men of Letters look
+on her as their Patroness; and there are few Poetical Compositions which
+are not first presented to her. The last Time I paid my Court to her, the
+following Piece, compos’d of no more than two Rhymes, was read there, and
+so highly applauded, that I herewith send you a Copy of it[53].
+
+The Prince of _Dombes_, the Duke of _Maine’s_ eldest Son, is a tall
+handsome well set Gentleman, and has the Reversion of his Father’s
+Offices. Whether the Count _d’Eu_ has any Employments, I know not. Both
+these Princes are commonly at Court. Mademoiselle _du Maine_ is a very
+amiable Princess, whose Education has been fully answerable to her Birth,
+and who, by her Manners and Politeness, approves herself the worthy
+Daughter of her Mother.
+
+The Count _de Tholouse_, great Admiral of _France_, is the second Son of
+King _Lewis_ XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_. In the last War he commanded
+the Naval Army of _France_. He is one of the handsomest and comeliest
+Lords at Court. He is noble and magnificent in every thing that he does,
+and they say, he is generous. He is very polite, and has always been as
+much esteem’d for his Merit, as for his Rank of a legitimated Prince,
+which he has preserved, tho’ his Brother was divested of it. It was
+believed for a long time, that this Prince would not marry, and that his
+great Estate would fall to the Children of the Duke _de Maine_; but he
+married some Years ago, _Maria Victoria_ of _Noailles_, Widow of the
+Marquis _de Gondrin_, Son to the Duke _d’Antin_, by whom he had a Son, who
+is now the Duke _d’Epernon_. The Count _de Tholouse_ has had a Son by her
+also, who is called the Duke[54]_de Ponthievre_; by which Title, the Count
+has the Rank of a Peer in Parliament. This Prince, since his Marriage, has
+commonly resided at _Rambouillet_, where the King frequently makes Parties
+for Hunting. His Majesty shews a very great Regard for the Countess of
+_Tholouse_, which gives her Authority to talk to his Majesty with a great
+deal of Freedom. The _French_ say, she was the Occasion of the Duke of
+_Bourbon_’s being put out of the Ministry. ’Tis certain, however, that the
+King was at _Rambouillet_, when the Duke _de Charost_ went and told the
+Duke, That it was his Majesty’s Pleasure, that he should quit the Station
+of Prime Minister. The Duke being at _Versailles_ when he receiv’d the
+unwelcome News, they say, he desired to speak with the King and Queen; but
+that the Duke _de Charost_ told him, he had Orders for his Removal to
+_Chantilly_. His most Serene Highness obey’d, and did not appear to be
+afflicted for the Loss of his Authority, so much as for the falling-off of
+his Friends and Creatures. The Marchioness _de Prie_, Lady of the
+Bed-chamber to the Queen, whom he honoured with a very singular Esteem,
+received Orders to leave the Court, and to retire to _Normandy_; where,
+during her being in Favour, she had purchased a considerable Estate. The
+Brothers of the Name of _Paris_, those Objects of the Public Odium, were
+divested of their Authority. M. _de Blanc_ came again into the Ministry:
+M. _de Belle-Isle_ regain’d his Liberty, and obtained the Command of the
+Troops of the Government of _Metz_, and the three Bishopricks. The
+Marchioness _de Prie_ had the Mortification to see her Employment of Lady
+of the Bed-chamber fill’d up by the Daughter of M. _le Blanc_, to whom she
+was a declared Enemy, and whom she had endeavoured to ruin. This Lady was
+not able to support herself long under her Disgrace; for having been used
+to bear a Sway, she could not reconcile herself to Retirement; but
+languished for a while, and at length died of a Colic, which gave her
+horrid Pains. She was not much regretted, because she had made few
+Friends; Ambition and Self-Interest had taken intire hold of her. She
+thought her Disgrace unsufferable, and the little Reflection she made upon
+the Revolution of Fortune, rendered hers but the more intolerable. I will
+hereafter give you an Account of the Cardinal _de Fleury_, and of the
+Persons now of the First Rank at Court; but at present my Pen is ready to
+drop out of my Fingers; for ’tis One o’Clock in the Morning, and if I
+write any more, I shall but give you my Dreams. Therefore I am, with all
+the Esteem, possible, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Versailles, May 1, 1732._
+
+In my last Letter I mention’d the Princes and Princesses of the Blood
+Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this
+Court, who are in the most exalted Stations.
+
+The Cardinal _de Fleury_, by his Dignity of Cardinal, and much more by his
+Character, as the Depositary of the Royal Authority, has the first Rank in
+the State next to the Princes of the Blood. This Prelate, tho’ far
+advanced in Years, is brisk and lively to Admiration. His Stature is
+somewhat above the middle Size; he has a happy Physiognomy, to which
+Fortune has not given the Lye; and he is humble, good-natur’d and civil.
+You know that he was Bishop of _Frejus_. He resign’d that See to excuse
+himself from the Pastoral Charge of Souls, when the late King _Lewis_ XIV.
+nominated him, by his Last Will, Preceptor to the young _Dauphin_, now
+King _Lewis_ XV. This was almost the only Article of _Lewis_ the Grand’s
+Will, which the Regent put in Execution. M. _de Frejus_ won the Heart of
+the young Monarch to such a Degree, that the Prince was intirely wrapp’d
+up in him; and his Affection for him has increas’d so much ever since,
+that now it may be literally said, that the Cardinal _de Fleury_ is the
+Depositary, or Trustee, of the Royal Authority. The Regent, a Prince of
+Penetration, if ever there was one, quickly perceived what an Ascendant M.
+_de Frejus_ had over the young Monarch; and being apprehensive of what
+might be the Consequences of it, he was continually contriving how to
+remove the Prelate from Court. With this View he offered him the
+Archbishoprick of _Rheims_, which was vacant by the Death of the Cardinal
+_de Mailly_; but M. _de Fleury_, who resigned the Bishoprick of _Frejus_,
+that he might not have the Charge of Souls, was so far from accepting one
+of the greatest Archbishopricks in the Kingdom, that he absolutely refused
+it. The Duke of _Orleans_, who was intent upon carrying his Point, offered
+to make him a Cardinal; for he hoped, that the Pope’s ill State of Health
+would quickly bring on a Conclave; and that then M. _de Frejus_ would be
+obliged to go to _Rome_, where he thought he shou’d be able to continue
+him, on Pretence of managing the King’s Affairs there; and that then the
+young Monarch’s Fondness to see his Favourite would by that Means
+insensibly be weaned. But M. _de Frejus_ saw the Hook that was hid under
+this Bait. The red Hat did not dazzle his Eyes; and he knew moreover, that
+if he kept close to the King’s Person, he could be sure of a Hat whenever
+he pleased. However, he thank’d the Duke of _Orleans_, and told him, he
+had no such ambitious Views, and that he preferred his Station in the
+King’s Council, before all the Dignities, to which, in his Goodness, he
+had Thoughts of promoting him. The Duke of _Orleans_, however chagrin’d at
+the Prelate’s Moderation, was forc’d to keep it to himself; he was afraid
+to make use of his Authority; for it was not long before this, that he
+banish’d the Marshal _de Villeroy_ to _Lyons_, at which the People
+grumbled; and to put away the Preceptor too, would have rais’d a Clamour
+against him, throughout the whole Kingdom. M. _de Frejus_ continued at
+Court as a Member of the Privy Council, and there was not a Courtier who
+gave more constant Attendance; and in this Station he supported the
+Ministry of the Cardinal _du Bois_, the Duke of _Orleans_, and the Duke of
+_Bourbon_; but he confin’d himself all the while within the Bounds of his
+Office. At the King’s Marriage, he accepted of that of Great Almoner to
+the Queen, and by that Means his Attachment to the Court became more
+strict. When the Duke _de Bourbon_ was disgrac’d, the King offered the
+Place of Prime Minister to M. _de Frejus_, who, indeed, accepted of that
+eminent Post; but ’twas on Condition, that he should not be compelled to
+take the Title, and that he might always lay an Account of every Thing
+before the King.
+
+The Bishop of _Frejus_ being thus become Master of the Government, it was
+but reasonable that he should be adorned with the Purple, to give the more
+Lustre to his Character. Mean time _France_, had no Hat to demand, for the
+Number of her Cardinals was completed. The Emperor having a Pretension at
+that Time to a Hat, the King desired him to yield it to him for his First
+Minister; and the Emperor, overjoy’d that he could oblige the King, and
+that he could make the Minister some sort of Amends for his pacific
+Sentiments, gave him his Nomination accordingly. Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+sent the Cap to the Bishop, who then assumed the Title of Cardinal _de
+Fleury_; and with this Title he now governs the State, not with the
+general Applause of the _French_, because the Thing is impossible; but at
+least, with the Approbation of his King, of Foreigners, and indeed, of
+every Man in the Kingdom, who is thoroughly inform’d of the State of
+_France_ in particular, and of _Europe_ in general. Yet those who have the
+least Affection for the Cardinal, must acknowledge his Disinterestedness
+and Integrity; for the worst Enemy he has, cannot accuse him of amassing
+Riches, or of coveting to aggrandize his Family; in which respect he is,
+perhaps, negligent to a Fault, his Kindred having the Character of Persons
+of Worth.
+
+The Cardinal’s Expences are as much circumscrib’d as his Dignity will
+admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no
+doubt, ’tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so
+vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to
+Business, And I don’t think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in
+his Diversions.
+
+The _French_ (I speak of those who hope to make their Fortune by the
+Sword) find fault with his Temper as too pacific. _We are despis’d_, (say
+they) _our Neighbours make Treaties and Alliances without us, and +France+
+is no longer what she was in the Time of +Lewis+ XIV._
+
+I am not here proposing to make a Panegyric on the Cardinal, but I cannot
+help letting you see how weakly those People talk, who censure his Conduct
+as to Foreign Affairs. I don’t pretend to enter into the Domestic Affairs
+of the Kingdom, tho’ I am very well persuaded, that the Cardinal’s
+Integrity, and his Zeal for the King, incline him to act to the best of
+his Power. I will only leave you to judge if his Inclination to Peace is
+blameable. When he came into the Ministry, he found the King’s Coffers
+exhausted, and the Kingdom in a Condition, which requir’d Rest rather than
+a War, the Event of which is always uncertain. But after all, Who is there
+to go to War with? What shall be the Pretence? Who is it that insults
+_France_? Or, Who desires any thing more of her than her Friendship? Have
+not the Treaties of _Utrecht_, and _Baden_, and all the Treaties made
+since, during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, settled the Interests
+of _Europe_? Did not _England_ earnestly court the Alliance of _France_?
+Has the Emperor seem’d less desirous of it? Nay, Did not _Spain_ itself,
+forgetting the sending back of the _Infanta_, enter into her former
+Engagements with this Crown, as soon as the Cardinal _de Fleury_ was
+vested with the Ministry? In what respect then, can the _French_ think
+themselves despis’d by their Neighbours? I will take upon me to prove, on
+the contrary, that _Lewis_ XV. during the Cardinal _de Fleury_’s Ministry,
+instead of being neglected, has been as much courted by the Foreign
+Powers, as _Lewis_ XIV. was in all that Glory which procured him the Title
+of _Louis le Grand_. When the Clamour was for abolishing the _Ostend_
+Company, How did _England_ and _Holland_ bestir themselves to make the
+King a Party in their Quarrel? What did not the Emperor do to engage him
+in his Interest? Every thing was uncertain, as long as _France_ remained
+undetermined. The _English_ and the _Dutch_ prepared to attack the
+Emperor, and the latter made ready for his Defence. The Cardinal having
+got the King to declare for the Maritime Powers, the Emperor abolish’d the
+_Ostend_ Company immediately. What more could have been obtained by a War?
+
+When the Talk was, of introducing the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_,
+what Measures, what Solicitations were not employ’d by the Powers
+concerned, either to bring over _Lewis_ XV. to their Party, or to oblige
+him to a Neutrality? Count _Sinzendorff’s_ coming from _Vienna_ to
+_Versailles_, on purpose to treat for the Tranquillity of _Italy_, seems
+to me a Proof, that the Emperor does not neglect _France_ to such a
+Degree as the Uneasy and Disaffected would fain have it believed. In good
+Truth, if _France_ had not threatened to attack the Emperor, in case he
+did not consent to the Introduction of the _Infante_ into _Tuscany_, would
+his Imperial Majesty have been influenced by the bare Menaces of _Spain_?
+That Monarch is too well established in _Italy_, to fear any thing from
+that Crown; and if Equity and Justice did not always accompany his
+Actions, it would have been easy for him to have taken Possession of
+_Tuscany_; and the _Spaniards_, who have never been able to retake
+_Gibraltar_, and who, perhaps, would never have reduced _Barcelona_
+without the Assistance of the _French_, would have found it a very
+difficult Matter to have turned them out of it. The Cardinal _de Fleury_
+having persuaded the King to declare in Favour of the _Infante_, he
+threatens to join the _English_ and _Spaniards_; and the Emperor seeing
+all _Europe_ against him, but especially _France_, which is capable of
+striking the hardest Blows, yields to the Times, and grants every thing
+that is desired of him. Can there be any thing more to the Honour of the
+Cardinal? And, Why should a War be undertaken, if Menaces alone are
+sufficient to obtain what is desired?
+
+But, say the Disaffected, we purchase Peace of all the World by our Money.
+The Cardinal is not chargeable with lavishing the King’s Money. I know not
+that he gives away any, unless it be the Subsidies granted to the Crowns
+of _Denmark_ and _Sweden_. If that be purchasing a Peace, _Lewis_ XIV. and
+the Regent after him, were much more lavish of the Royal Treasure, and
+perhaps with less Profit; and it would be easy to demonstrate, that in
+order to dislodge the _Spaniards_ from _Sicily_, the Regent sent more
+Money into _Germany_ and _England_, in one Month, than the Cardinal gives
+away in a Year to the Northern Crowns; tho’ one of ’em has for Time out of
+Mind been used to draw Subsidies from _France_. Yet all this while, the
+Regent was not accused of purchasing a Peace of his Neighbours; because,
+in order to make it necessary to buy a Peace, some Prince or other must
+have threatened him with a War. But ’tis certain, that no Power did then,
+or does now, think of attacking _France_. Let her continue peaceable, and
+there we will leave her.
+
+But on the other hand, tho’ it were not justifiable for the Cardinal to
+entertain pacific Sentiments, and tho’ he were to indulge the Passion of
+the _French_, I would fain know of those who are so hot for a War, Whether
+they are well assured it would have a happy Issue? And, Whether, when a
+War is once begun, it would be in their Power to put an End to it,
+whenever they thought it consistent with their Affairs? Nay, I will
+suppose that every thing should happen as they would wish, and that the
+War should prove a fortunate one; What Acquisition can _France_ make,
+which would not be more to her Expence than her Advantage? For the farther
+she extends her Conquests, the more Enemies she will have of Course, and
+the more Troops she will be oblig’d to maintain. The Frontiers of the
+Kingdom are secured. Are a few more Towns, nay, an intire Province, a
+sufficient Temptation for a King of _France_? And are they an Equivalent
+for the Blood and Treasure that must be expended to acquire them? No,
+surely, the Cardinal is perfectly in the right, and I must beg the
+_Frenchmen’s_ Pardon, when I tell ’em, they know not what they would be
+at. How desirous were they of the late Peace? And they have scarce tasted
+the Fruits of it, but they now want a War. If the Cardinal should enter
+into a War, and the Consequences of it should prove fatal, Would they not
+throw the Blame upon him? They would say for the Purpose, that it was
+inconsistent with a Priest to make War. For my Part, I think the Cardinal
+_de Fleury_ has substantial Reasons for doing what he does. The _French_
+have been so long accustomed to the turbulent Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. which
+was interspersed throughout with great Events, that they know not how to
+reconcile themselves to one that is more placid and calm; but ’tis to be
+hoped, they will ere long. Whatever they do, the Cardinal seems to be very
+easy, let them say what they will of him. As he knows that he has nothing
+to reproach himself with, and that he has always preferred the Good of the
+Public to his own private Interest, he is afraid of no Revolution in his
+Fortune. He is sensible that Innocence always holds up its Head, and that
+real Merit is above the Reach of Envy and Malice.
+
+M. _Daguesseau_ the Chancellor of _France_, is the Chief Magistrate of the
+Kingdom, and his Office is attended with such great Prerogatives, that the
+King cannot take it from him. The Person whom he succeeded in this eminent
+Dignity, was M. _Voisin_, who being Secretary of War, was made Chancellor
+by _Lewis_ XIV. upon M. _de Pontchartrain_’s resigning that Post, to
+devote the Residue of his Life to God in Retirement. M. _Voisin_ dying
+suddenly in the Beginning of the Duke of _Orlean_’s Regency, M.
+_Daguesseau_, then Attorney-General, was, by his Royal Highness, appointed
+Chancellor in his Room. All _France_ applauded this Choice. Every body was
+so satisfied of this Magistrate’s Candour and Integrity, that nobody
+doubted he would assert Justice and Equity; and in short, he perfectly
+answered the Expectations of the Public. But as true Merit, is always the
+most envied, a Cabal was soon formed against his Integrity. M.
+_Daguesseau_ refused to put the Seal to certain Edicts, which he thought
+contrary to the Welfare of the Government; at which the Duke of _Orleans_
+was so incensed, that he banished the Chancellor to _Frene_, a fine Seat
+belonging to that Minister near _Meaux_; and the Seals were given to M.
+_d’Argenson_, Lieutenant of the Police, with the Title of Keeper of the
+Seals, which was formerly no more than a bare Commission; but the Regent
+was then for erecting it into an Office. The Parliament of _Paris_
+exclaimed very much against this Innovation, but the Regent, after all,
+was obey’d. Upon the Death of M. _d’Argenson_, the Chancellor was
+recall’d, and the Seals restor’d to[55]him; but he held them not long; for
+the Regent, who was resolved to have no Ministers but such as knew how to
+obey, disgraced the Chancellor a second time for opposing his Will, and
+gave the Seals to M. _d’Armenonville_. The latter dying during the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_’s Ministry, the Seals were given to M. _de
+Chauvelin_, who, besides the Title of Keeper of the Seals, has also the
+Office of Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The
+Chancellor, who has been recalled for some time, assists at the Council;
+but his Office has been depriv’d of its greatest Lustre, since the Seals
+have been separated from it.
+
+M. _Chauvelin_, Keeper of the Seals, Minister and Secretary of[56]State
+for Foreign Affairs, owes his Advancement to the Cardinal _de Fleury_,
+who seems to confide in him intirely. This Minister is reckon’d very
+laborious, good-natur’d and civil. The Foreign Ministers are so taken with
+him, that they think no more of Messieurs _de Torcy_ and _de Morville_.
+The former was of the _Colbert_ Family, Secretary of Foreign Affairs under
+_Lewis_ XIV. a Man, as one may say, born for the Ministry, and whose great
+and good Services have been very much cry’d-up, but more rewarded by the
+Applauses of _Europe_, than by Favours from the Court. The other was the
+Son of the late Keeper of the Seals, _d’Armenonville_, and had acquir’d a
+great Reputation in his Embassies to _Holland_, and the Congress of
+_Cambray_, when he desired Leave to[57] retire, and was succeeded by M.
+_Chauvelin_.
+
+The Count _de Maurepas_ is Grandson to the Chancellor _de Pontchartrain_,
+and Son to the Count _de Pontchartrain_, Secretary for the Maritime
+Affairs in the Reign of King _Lewis_ XIV. He enter’d very young into the
+Ministry, and has so behav’d as to gain Friends and Dependants. I have not
+heard one Man give him an ill Word, while every body speaks well of him;
+but as for his Secretaries, or chief Clerks, the Seafaring People often
+exclaim against the Airs of Importance which some of those Scribes put on,
+who watch all Opportunities to impose on the Honesty of the Minister, in
+Favour of their Creatures, to the Prejudice of other Subjects, who have
+more Merit.
+
+The Count _de S. Florentin_ is of the Family of _Phelypeaux_, as is also
+the Count _de Maurepas_, who married his Sister. He is the Son of M. _de
+la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State; and had the Reversion of his Father’s
+Office granted him by the Regent, when he was scarce twenty Years of Age.
+M. _de la Vrilliere_ dying not long before the King’s Marriage, M. _de S.
+Florentin_ entered on his Office. He has that Province which relates to
+Affairs Ecclesiastical. He married, some Years ago, the Daughter of the
+late Count _de Platen_, Great Chamberlain, and Hereditary Post-Master of
+_Hanover_; but neither of ’em knew one another before the Match was made.
+Mademoiselle _de Platen_ was a _Lutheran_, but is turn’d _Catholic_. The
+Lady, her Mother, for Whom I had as profound a Veneration as for any Woman
+in the World, and whose Memory I still revere, brought her into _France_.
+M. _de S. Florentin_ has Reason to be pleas’d with the Choice he has made:
+For his Lady is not only very charming, but has noble Sentiments, and a
+Virtue which Calumny itself durst not asperse. When she married M. _de S.
+Florentin_, King _George_ I. of _Great Britain_ settled a Pension upon her
+of forty thousand Livres, for forty-five Years; and King _George_ II. on
+his Accession to the Crown, was pleased to confirm the said Pension, upon
+that Lady’s going to _London_ to solicit it, in Company with her
+Mother-in-law Madame _de la Vrilliere_, now Duchess of _Mazarine_.
+
+M. _d’Angervilliers_, formerly Intendant of _Alsace_, is Secretary of the
+War-Office, in which he succeeded M. _le Blanc_, who was the Secretary a
+second time, when he died at _Versailles_. The first time that he was
+Secretary, he was supplanted by M. _de Breteuil_, during the Ministry of
+the Duke _de Bourbon_; and he, in his Turn, supplanted M. _de Breteuil_,
+the Queen’s Chancellor, in the Ministry of the Cardinal _de Fleury_. You
+see by this, that the War-Office has been several times chang’d in a few
+Years; but ’tis like to remain always in the Hands of M._d’Angervilliers_,
+whose Application, Vigilance and Integrity, are very much cry’d-up by the
+Officers, and all that have to do with him. I gave you some Account of
+this Minister, when I wrote to you from _Strasbourg_, to which I have
+nothing to add.
+
+As the Secretary of War has been often chang’d of late Years, the
+Comptroller-General of the Finances has been much more so. From the Year
+1711, when I first came to _Paris_, to this Day, I have known seven
+Comptrollers General, and not one of ’em died in the Office: So that this
+Post may well be compared to that of the Grand _Vizier_, which is alike
+struggled for, and alike fatal to those who are invested with it.
+
+Of all the Men who have had that ticklish Employment of
+Comptroller-General in _France_, there is not one that has made a more
+shining Fortune, and a Fortune that sooner slipp’d from him, than _John
+Law_. This Man, of whom many People have wrote and talk’d without knowing
+him, and according to their Passions, was a _Scotsman_, born with a narrow
+Fortune, but strong Desires to inlarge it. He had travell’d through
+several Parts of _Europe_, and Gaming prov’d his chief Subsistence. He won
+considerable Sums in _Italy_, especially at _Genoa_; and there it was that
+he hatch’d all those Projects which he put in Execution in _France_. ’Tis
+true, that he did not come into this Kingdom, till he had offered his
+Services to _Victor Amadeus_, the King of _Sardinia_. This Prince told
+him, That his Dominions were too small for the Execution of so great a
+Design; but that _France_ was a Theatre, where he might expect to make his
+Market, and thither he advised him to go. _If I know the Humour of the
++French+_, added the King, _I am sure they will relish your Schemes_.
+_John Law_ took the Monarch’s Advice, and shewed his Project to the
+Regent, who approved it; and the Projector soon found, that he had the
+Purses of the _French_ absolutely at his Command. As he was a Protestant,
+he made his Abjuration in the _Recollets_ Church at _Melun_, in the
+Diocese of _Sens_, in the Month of _December_ 1719, in the Hands of the
+Abbé[58]_Tancin_. In the Month of _January_ following, he was made
+Comptroller-General; but he quitted that Post in _June_; abruptly left
+_Paris_ on the thirteenth of _December_ 1720; and after rambling about for
+a while, not knowing where to fix, (for his own Country did not suit him)
+he died at _Munich_. The Generality of the _French_ accuse him of having
+exhausted _France_, and sent away immense Sums to Foreign Countries. How
+true this is, I know not, but ’tis certain, that _Law_, after his
+Disgrace, liv’d very meanly. His Widow and his Son, (Mr. _John Law_)[59]
+who are actually at _Utrecht_, make no very great Figure there, which very
+many People ascribe to Policy. But for my own Part, who think more freely,
+and don’t see what could hinder Mrs. _Law_ and her Son from making a
+Display of their Riches, in the Country where they live; I can’t help
+crediting what People, and such as were _John Law_’s Intimates, have
+assured me for a certain Truth, _viz._ That _Law_ being puff’d-up with his
+Fortune, and not thinking it would be so short-liv’d, had no Thought of
+securing it in Foreign Countries; and that if he had such a Purpose, he
+had not Time to send any Sums out of the Kingdom. He was oblig’d both by
+Necessity, and out of Policy, to make Purchases in _France_; and
+accordingly he made considerable Acquisitions; but they were no more than
+a pleasant Dream to him, and the Loss of them only made his Disgrace the
+greater Affliction. I am of their Opinion, who believe that _John Law_ was
+richer when he came to _France_, than he was three Months after he left
+it. This Copy of Verses was made upon him, which, perhaps, you will not be
+sorry to see[60].
+
+    The TITLE of it is, A COMMISSION of the OFFICE of
+    COMPTROLLER-GENERAL of the FINANCES, for Mr. JOHN LAW.
+
+      _De par le Dieu porte-marotte,
+      Nous Général de la Calotte,
+      Attendu que le Régiment
+      Est obligé sensiblement
+      Au Sieur +Law+, de qui la Science
+      Et conduite dans la Finance
+      Nous a donné maints Calotins,
+      En inventant les Bulletins,
+      Autrement dits Billets de Banque,
+      Pour servir au jeu de la Blanque,
+      Jeu non renouvellé des Grecs,
+      Comme le Fade jeu de l’Oye,
+      Mais imaginé tout exprès
+      Pour exciter l’homme à la joye:
+      Témoin les Plaisans viremens,
+      Et continuels changemens,
+      Que l’on a vu dans le Royaume
+      De Quinquempoix & de Vendôme,
+      Et Principauté de Soissons,
+      Où l’Achat & le Dividende_
+      _Causoient un Rumeur st grande,
+      Qu’on ne vit jamais tant de Rats
+      Obseder gens de tous états:
+      Mari, Femme, Garçon & Fille!
+      Laquais, Servantes, la Famille!
+      En un mot, sans rien excepter,
+      Venoit jouer & blanqueter,
+      Et s’y portoit de telle sorte,
+      Qu’il falloit Gardes à la Porte
+      Pour renvoyer chacun chez soi,
+      Après les trois coups de Beffroi.
+      Là de tous Païs & Provinces,
+      Marchands, Magistrats, Artisans,
+      Prélats, Guerriers & Courtisans,
+      Ducs & Pairs, & même des Princes,
+      Non du Païs, mais bien forains,
+      Accouroient comme des Essains,
+      Malgré vent, grêle, pluye & crotte,
+      Pour y jouer à la Marotte,
+      En beaux & bons deniers comptant,
+      Contre des Voleurs Calotines,
+      Dont la +France+ & terres voisines
+      Se pourront souvenir longtems._
+
+        _A ces Causes, vu l’Abondance
+      Des Calotins qui sont en +France+
+      De tous Rangs & de tous états,
+      Par le moyen du dit Sieur +Las+,
+      Nous lui consions nos Finances;
+      Voulons que sur ses Ordonnances
+      Nos fonds soient œconomisés,
+      Augmentés & réalisés;
+      Afin que selon son merite
+      Chacun ait part, grosse ou petite,
+      Dans nos immenses Revenus,
+      Tant de gros Fonds que de menus.
+      Or comme un pareil Ministere
+      Est sert étendu dans sa Sphere,
+      Lui donnons pour prémier Commis,
+      +NOMPAR[61]+ qui des moins endormis
+      Connoit la manœuvre diverse
+      De la Finance & du Commerce.
+      Lui donnons pour Profits & Droit,
+      Pensions, Gages & Salaries,
+      Le quart de tous les Angles droits,
+      Que couperont les Commissaires
+      Au papier qui sera visé,
+      Et duquel en homme avisé
+      Il a si bien grossi le nombre,
+      Que la +France+ y seroit à l’ombre,
+      Si tous le Billets rassemblés,
+      Et les uns aux autres collés,
+      On en pouvoit saire une Tente.
+      Au surplus de ladite Rente,
+      Lui donnons notre grand Cordon,
+      Passant de la droite à la gauche,
+      Ainsi qu’un légere ébauche
+      De sa droiture, dont le fond
+      Va si loin que [62]+Terrasson+ même,
+      Grand calculateur du Système,
+      Ne pourroit pas le mesurer.
+      En outre, pour mieux honorer
+      Le chef de ce grand Personnage,
+      Qui fit bouquer tout homme sage,
+      Et soi disant docte & profond,
+      Lui donnons Calotte de plomb,
+      De la haute et prémiere classe;
+      Et pour surcroit de telle grace,
+      Joignons à ces [63]Coqs dont la voix
+      Chanta la Justice au François,
+      Papillons, Rats & Girouettes,_
+      _Hannetons Grelots, & Sonnettes.
+      En mémoirs d’un si beau chant,
+      Qu’au sortir de +France+ on publie
+      Qù il va chanter en +Italie+,
+      Où sans doute il aura beau champ
+      Pour exercer son grand Génie,
+      Et sa connoissance infinie
+      Dans l’art de décupler les sonds
+      Par Billets payables à vue,
+      Desquels aujourd’hui nous voyons
+      En +France+ une si bonne Issue.
+      Ordonnons à tous les Païs
+      De notre vaste Dépendance,
+      De l’ecouter dans ses avis,
+      Sur-tout dans l’art de la Finance;
+      Art qu’il possede eminemment.
+      Fait au Conseil du Régiment[64]._
+
+’Tis certain, that never was any thing more splendid, than the short Reign
+of his Fortune. The _French_ perfectly idoliz’d, him, and even those who
+turned their Backs to his Altar, could not help admiring him as an
+extraordinary Man. The Nobility did not scruple to pay their Homage to
+him; and I have seen Dukes and Peers of _France_ waiting in his
+Antichamber, like the meanest Subjects. Towards the Close, there was no
+coming to the Speech of him without Money. The _Swiss_ must be feed for
+Entrance at his Gate, the _Lacqueys_ for Admittance into his Antichamber,
+and the _Valets de Chambre_ for the Privilege of Access to his
+Presence-Chamber or Closet. The Audiences too were very short, and People
+were quickly dismissed with very little Merchandise for a great deal of
+Money. Mean time he was civil, and his Fortune did not seem to have puff’d
+him up. He was a fine handsome Man, of a fair Complexion, as the _English_
+generally are, and had a very noble Port. Nobody understood _Algebra_
+better than he did, and, let his Enemies say what they please, his System
+was good in itself, and might have been beneficial to _France_, if it had
+been punctually follow’d.
+
+The Scheme was calculated for keeping two Thirds more of Species in the
+Kingdom, than of Bills, in which Case there would always have been Money
+enough to have paid off those Bills. But this did not satisfy the Avarice
+of the Under-strappers; and in 1720, when the Bank Bills were put down,
+there were two Thirds of Bills in the Kingdom, to one Third of Money,
+_viz._ five hundred Millions of Money, to a thousand Millions in Bills;
+and M. _d’Argenson_, the Protector of the four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_, prevailed on the Regent to circulate 1760 Millions of
+extraordinary Bills not registered, with which People bought and sold
+Shares; and during this Commerce, the Bills were realiz’d by the Brokers
+into Species; insomuch that, according to a Computation then made by
+_Barême_, they say, that at the Time of the total Suppression of the
+Bills, which was in _October_ 1720, there were more Livres _Tournois_ in
+the famous Bank of _Missisippi_, than there had been Minutes since the
+Creation of the World. All this Variety of Bills had so stupified the
+_Parisians_, and they gave them such intire Credit, that before the Arret
+of the fifteenth of _May_ 1720, which sunk the Bills from ten _per Cent.
+per Mensem_ to half their Value, a _Parisian_ did not care to be paid in
+Specie; for he thought Bills were far better, not only because they were
+not liable to be lower’d, but because they were more ready to count, and
+especially to carry. A Man that had Millions in his Pocket did not
+perceive the Weight of ’em, whereas but one hundred _Louis-d’ors_ are too
+heavy; and, how was it possible for a Man to carry them in his Pocket
+without being tir’d? While Peoples Fortunes were in Paper, I could boast
+of having had a Letter-case once in my Hands, in which there were Notes to
+the Value of thirty-two Millions. If they had been my own, I question
+whether I should have let them lie in Bank Bills, with the Hazard of
+losing half the Value. What follows, is a short, but curious Account of
+this Scheme[65].
+
+_Lewis_ XIV. a little before he died, was two thousand two hundred
+Millions in Debt: But by the Reduction of the Principal and Interest of
+the Revenues of the Town-House, (of _Paris_) by strikeing off two fifths
+upon all Contracts, and by reducing Interest to four _per Cent._ the Debts
+of the State were reduced to one thousand eight hundred Millions; which
+was the very Sum that was owing from the Crown, when _Lewis_ XV. came to
+it. The Debts of the Government were afterwards reduced to one thousand
+four hundred Millions, by sinking a Quarter, a half and three-fourths upon
+the State Bills, as well as all other Debts owing by the King, as also on
+Pensions, and by the Recovery of great Sums thro’ the Chamber of Justice.
+Mr. _Law_ thought he should be able to extinguish all the Debts, by a
+Scheme which he form’d upon the Profits that were made by _Missisippi_.
+For this Purpose he erected a Bank, and caused as many Shares to be
+created, as amounted to one hundred and fifty Millions, at one hundred
+Livres each, payable in State Bills, which, to the Advantage of the
+Buyers, rose to no less than one thousand. After this, he created more
+Actions, to the Value of one hundred and five Millions, payable in Money
+or Effects, at one thousand _per Cent._ which, with the former one hundred
+and fifty Millions, produced one thousand six hundred and fifty Millions;
+a Sum more than sufficient to cancel all the King’s Debts. Besides this,
+Mr. _Law_ created Bank Bills for one thousand two hundred Millions, of
+which he received the Value, either in Money or Effects. He raised the
+Money higher, upon which there were at least three hundred Millions
+Profit, that are not brought to the Accompt. He compelled all People to
+carry their Money to the Bank, by certain Arrets, which injoin’d People at
+first, to keep no more than one hundred Livres by them, and afterwards but
+five hundred. So that in eight Months Management, he augmented the old
+Debts of the State, that were one thousand four hundred Millions, to one
+thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; which, added to the one thousand
+two hundred Millions of the Bank, rise to two thousand eight hundred and
+fifty Millions, due at this Time from the King. If to this we add the
+_Præmium_ to which the Actions rose, which at one thousand eight hundred
+among private People, make five thousand four hundred Millions more; to
+which the one thousand two hundred Millions in Bank Bills must be added;
+it will appear that the Public is charg’d with six thousand six hundred
+Millions in Paper; and for the paying off of that Sum, there will be but
+five hundred Millions in the Kingdom in Specie, when they are reduced to
+their intrinsic Value. The King having received one thousand six hundred
+and five Millions in Effects, of which he owed the greatest Part, and
+Actions or Shares being taken instead thereof, which Actions, by secret
+Management, rose to five thousand four hundred Millions among the
+Subjects, Mr. _Law_ thereby gave the People the Opportunity of putting
+three thousand seven hundred and five Millions in their Pockets.
+
+    An ACCOUNT of the BANK BILLS that subsisted, and of those that
+    were burnt.
+
+  Bills engraved                  669000000
+  Bills printed                  1927400000
+                                 ----------
+                    _Viz._
+
+  Bills of 10000 Livres          1134000000
+            1000                 1123200000
+             100                  299200000
+              10                   40000000
+                                 ----------
+                           Total 2596400000
+
+  Bills burnt of 10000 Livres     562500000
+                  1000            138528000
+                   100              6026000
+                    10               273460
+                                 ----------
+                            Total 707327460
+
+  There then remained therefore}
+    in Trade                   } 1989072540
+
+The Fortunes made at _Paris_, during this _Missisippi_ Contagion, are so
+extraordinary, that unless one had seen it, ’twere impossible to believe
+it; and, what is still more unaccountable, the greatest were rais’d by
+mere Scoundrels; for except a few of the Court Lords and Ladies, it look’d
+as if Fortune had resolved to put the Gentry into Almshouses, for the Sake
+of inriching a Parcel of Bankrupts, Lacqueys, Beggars, and other of the
+Mobility[66]. And ’tis my real Opinion, that if God had not interpos’d,
+Footmen would at length have been the Masters, and the Masters the
+Footmen. The Handicraftsmen laid by their Work; there was nothing talked
+of but Actions, and every Place echoed with _Missisippi_ and
+_Quinquempoix_, which is the Street where all that hopeful Trade was
+carried on.
+
+These lucky _Missisippians_ have nevertheless seen the Turn of Fortune’s
+Wheel. The Generality of those who had not the Precaution to send their
+Money out of the Kingdom, were called to Accompt, and obliged to disgorge
+a Part of their Gains. Whether the King got much by this Scrutiny, I know
+not; but I believe it had the same Fate as the Chamber of Justice,
+established in 1716, in the _Augustins_ Convent at _Paris_, for the
+Prosecution of People employ’d in the Finances. This Tribunal, at the Head
+of which was M. _de Portail_, now the first President, had condemned
+several Tax Gatherers for an infinite Number of Misdemeanors committed in
+the King’s Finances. Some were punished as they justly deserved. A great
+many were tax’d in Proportion to the Declarations they were forced to make
+of their immense Wealth, which might have produc’d very considerable Sums
+for the Ease of the Government, at that Time plung’d over Head and Ears in
+Debt. But these Bloodsuckers of the People compounded for a Trifle of
+Expence, by a few Presents to a Lady, or to some Nobleman who had the
+Favour of the Regent. This was a Golden Shower, of which the least Part
+fell into the King’s Coffers.
+
+I have made a terrible Digression. Mr. _Law_ carried me to _Missisippi_,
+which is a long Voyage, and a Country from whence a Man can’t return
+whenever he has a Mind to it; but I am now come back to the Court. I have
+mentioned the Ministers to you, but they are not the only Persons that
+have a Seat in the Council. One of its Members is the Marshal _de
+Villars_, who being of all the _French_ Generals, the Man that made the
+most shining Figure during the last War, I think myself oblig’d to give
+you a more particular Account of him.
+
+_Francis Hector_, Duke _de Villars_, Marshal of _France_, and Dean of the
+Marshals, is a Gentleman of a good Family, his Father having been a
+Commander of the King’s Orders. His Stature is above the middle Size, and
+he has the Port and Step of a Nobleman. He has an agreeable winning
+Countenance, and hazel Eyes, which are lively and sparkling. He is a Man
+of Penetration, crafty, complaisant, and capable of great Affairs. He
+talks a great deal; but what he says is to the Purpose. He is laborious,
+attach’d to, and indefatigable in Business, a courageous good Soldier, and
+a successful General. Satire charges him with Avarice, as it did the Duke
+of _Marlborough_ his Rival: He is, withal, accused of being too haughty,
+and too conceited of his Actions, and his Merits. This, indeed, may be
+true enough; for I myself was Witness to a Conversation, in which he
+discovered it sufficiently plain. ’Twas the Winter after the Battle of
+_Denain_, when the Marshall being at Dinner with the late[67]M.
+_d’Armagnac_, Great Master of the Horse, where I was likewise a Guest; he
+talked a great deal about his Exploits, to which I listened so
+attentively, that he took Notice of it; and being unknown to him, he
+whispered the Master of the Horse in the Ear, to know who I was; and when
+the Marshal was told that I was a _German_, he paid me a good deal of
+Respect. Then resuming his Discourse, and addressing it to me, he talked
+of his Victory at _Denain_, with an Air of mighty Self-Applause. _But
+why_, said he, _did your People drown themselves? I am merciful, I would
+have given them Quarter_; _and they ought surely to have asked it_. I
+declare to you, that my Soul was all in Fire for the Honour of _Germany_.
+Those Words, Mercy and Quarter, I took for an Insult upon my Country. I
+was young and hot-headed, and was just going to return him an Answer that
+would not have become me; however, I kept my Temper, and ’twas not till
+the second or third Provocation that I made him Answer, _That I did not
+think he ought to be surprized at what the +German+ Troops did, because
+they had known his Valour sufficiently before the Battle of +Denain+, but
+never had a Trial of his Clemency_. I saw that he did not relish my
+Answer, upon which he shifted the Subject, and did not speak a Word more
+to me all the Time.
+
+Some time after the Peace, however, I made him Satisfaction: ’Twas at the
+House of the Duchess _de Lude_, Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_. There was a great deal of Company, and among the rest, the
+Marshal _de Villars_. The Conversation fell upon the Custom of the
+Ancients, to give Surnames to their Heroes; and the Moderns were blam’d
+for not doing so too. _What Name should we find for you, Marshal?_ said
+the Duchess _de Lude_. I replied immediately, _This would be no difficult
+Task. I don’t think that any Title would suit the Marshal +de Villars+
+better than that of +Germanicus Franciscus+_. This Trifle hit the
+Marshal’s Taste so nicely, that he put on a smiling Countenance, and said
+a great many obliging Things to me.
+
+The Marshal _de Villars_, in his Youth, was a Page to _Lewis_ XIV. He
+enter’d into the Service very young, and distinguished himself at his
+first setting-out, so that he really owes his Advancement more to his
+Services and Merit, than to Fortune. After the Peace of _Ryswic_, he had
+the Care of the King’s Affairs at the Emperor’s Court; but was recalled
+from thence a little before the War began, upon Account of the Succession
+to the King of _Spain_, _Charles_ II. When the War was declared, M. _de
+Villars_, at that time Lieutenant-General, was in the Army in _Germany_,
+commanded by the Marshal _Catinat_. The Marquis _de Villars_, with a
+Detachment from the Army, attack’d the _Imperialists_ near _Fridlinguen_
+in 1702. The _French_ said, that he won the Victory; the _Germans_ say,
+No. Which Party is in the Right, I can’t tell; but be it as it will, the
+Staff of a Marshal of _France_ was M. _de Villars_ Reward for the Battle.
+The same Year the Duke of _Savoy_ entring into an Alliance against the two
+Crowns, at the very Time that he assured them of his Attachment, the
+Treaty which that Prince made with the Emperor and his Allies, was kept
+secret for a while, tho’ not so secret but the Elector of _Bavaria_ knew
+of it; and his Electoral Highness reproaching the Envoy of _Savoy_ with
+it, that Minister actually swore he knew nothing of the Matter, and that,
+moreover, he did not believe it; upon which the Marshal _de Villars_, who
+was present, clapp’d his Hand upon the Envoy’s Shoulder, and repeated
+this Verse to him out of _Racine_; _Tu ne le crois que trop, malheureux
++Mithridate+_, _i. e._ Ah! poor _Mithridates_! thou believest it but too
+much. In 1704, the Marshal _de Villars_ was recalled from the Army in
+_Germany_, to command in the _Cevennois_, where he gained Palms and
+Olives, as well as Laurels; for by his good Nature and Moderation he
+pacified a Rebellion, which the too great Severity of his Predecessor, the
+Marshal _de Montrevel_, had but the more inflamed.
+
+After this, he had the Command of the Army in _Germany_, and kept it till
+1709, when he went into the _Netherlands_ to relieve the Duke _de
+Vendosme_, who was sent into _Spain_. M. _de Villars_, when in _Flanders_,
+retriev’d the Honour of _France_, which had been sully’d there by several
+Defeats. For tho’ the _French_ suffer’d another at the Battle of
+_Malplaquet_, yet they made so brave a Stand, that the Allies could not
+help admiring their Courage. The Marshal _de Villars_, being wounded in
+the Knee, was obliged to retire, and to leave the Command to the Marshal
+_de Boufflers_, who drew off the Army in good Order. They give out, that
+when the Marshal _de Villars_ heard the News, he said, _+Villars+ was not
+there; he could not be everywhere_. The Allies paid dear for this Victory;
+for they lost twenty-three thousand Men, besides a considerable Number of
+Officers of Distinction. They might say as _Pyrrhus_ did, after the Defeat
+of the _Romans_, _One more such a Victory, and I am undone_. The _French_
+lost eight thousand one hundred thirty-seven Men; and during the whole
+Course of the War, there was not a more bloody, nor a more obstinate
+Battle.
+
+The Campaign of 1712 was the most glorious to the Marshal _de Villars_, of
+any that he ever made; for he therein gained the Victory at _Denain_, and
+in two Months time took from the Allies what had cost them several
+Campaigns.
+
+’Twas about the same time, that, upon the Death of the Duke _de Vendôme_
+at _Vinaroz_ in _Spain_, _Lewis_ XIV. conferr’d his Government of
+_Provence_ upon the Marshal, who was also made a Duke and Peer. They tell
+a Story, that when he went to take Possession of his Government, and the
+Deputies of the Province presented him with a Purse full of _Lewis d’Ors_,
+One of ’em said, _Here_, my Lord, _is such another Purse as that we gave
+to the Duke +de Vendôme+, when, like you, he came to be our Governor; but
+that Prince refus’d to take it_. _Ah!_ said the Marshal _de Villars_,
+squeezing the Purse, _M. +de Vendôme+ has not left his Fellow behind him_.
+
+The War in the _Netherlands_ being finish’d by the Peace at _Utrecht_, the
+Marshal _de Villars_ had again the Command of the Army in _Germany_. When
+he took his Leave of the King, he said to him, _I most humbly intreat your
+Majesty to consider, that I leave you in the midst of my Enemies, whilst I
+am going to fight yours_. He actually took _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, and
+afterwards return’d to _Versailles_, to receive the King’s Orders to go
+and treat of a Peace with Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. During the Campaign
+his Enemies told the King, in hopes his Majesty would blame him for it,
+that he had laid out the Sum of 1800,000 Livres in the Purchase of an
+Estate. The King asking him one Day at Dinner, if it was true that he had
+made such a Purchase; _Yes, Sir_, replied the Marshal, who suspected that
+those who told the King of it were then at the Table, _I have bought an
+Estate which cost me 1800,000 Livres; and if the War continues, and your
+Majesty trusts me with the Command of your Army, I hope to purchase a more
+considerable one next Year at the Expence of your Enemies_. But instead of
+making another Campaign, the Marshal went to _Rastadt_, where he and
+Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ sign’d the Preliminaries of the Peace, which
+those two Generals concluded afterwards at _Baden_ on the seventh of
+_June_ 1714. Since that time the Marshal has always resided at Court. The
+_French_ look upon him as the Restorer of their Reputation in the
+_Netherlands_, the Support of the State, and the chief Captain of his
+Time: He is loaded with Wealth and Dignities: He is a Duke and Peer, a
+Marshal of _France_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight Commander of the
+King’s Orders, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Governor of _Provence_.
+He has an only Son, for whom he has obtain’d the Reversion of his
+Government[68].
+
+Perhaps I have detain’d you too long about the Marshal _de Villars_; but I
+thought the little Particularities I have given you would do you a
+Pleasure, and that you would not be sorry to know some Circumstances of a
+Man, who, after all, has been much cry’d-up in _Europe_. I shall be more
+brief in my Account of the other Noblemen, and of these I shall name but
+two or three, of whom you have heard some Talk, and such as are in most
+Reputation with us.
+
+_James Fitz-James_ Duke of _Berwic_, a Peer and Marshal of _France_, a
+Peer of _England_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight of the Garter, and of
+the Golden Fleece, is the legitimated Son of _James_ II. King of _Great
+Britain_[69]. He follow’d his Father to _France_, where he served with
+Distinction. In 1706 he had the Marshal’s Staff given him; and in 1707 he
+commanded the Army of the two Crowns in _Spain_, where he defeated the
+Lord _Gallway_ near _Almanza_. The King of _Spain_, to reward him for such
+great Service, made him a Grandee of _Spain_, and gave him the Duchy of
+_Liria_, which M. _de Berwic_ yielded to his eldest Son, who is actually
+in Possession of it. In 1714 the Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_ reduc’d
+_Barcelona_ under the Obedience of _Philip_ V. This City had refus’d to
+acknowledge that Prince, and tho’ abandon’d, and without any Hopes of
+Relief, continued the War with an Obstinacy of Men who seem’d to be
+desperate. The very Women, the Priests, Friers, all were Soldiers in
+_Barcelona_; and during the Siege, which held sixty-one Days with open
+Trenches, after a Blockade of eleven Months, there were five hundred and
+forty-three Friers and Priests kill’d and wounded in the Sallies and
+Attacks. The City was taken on the eleventh of _September_ by Storm: The
+Battle lasted from Four o’Clock in the Morning till Eleven, when the
+Inhabitants retir’d into the new Town, which is only separated from the
+other by a single Wall. They surrender’d next Day at Discretion to the
+Marshal-Duke _de Berwic_, who gave them a verbal Promise to save their
+Lives, and to protect the City from Plunder, on their paying down a large
+Sum of Money. _Barcelona_ being thus reduc’d, the Marshal return’d to
+_France_ loaded with Wealth and Honours. Upon the Death of King _Lewis_
+XIV. he was admitted to the Council of the Regency, and sent soon after to
+command in _Guienne_. The Regent gave him the Command of the Army against
+the King of _Spain_, which his Royal Highness had before offer’d to the
+Marshal _de Villars_; but that Nobleman told him, He would never draw his
+Sword against a Prince who might one Day become his Sovereign, a Prince
+for whose Service he had already spilt some Blood, and one for whom the
+Kingdom had expended such a Treasure. The Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_, being
+not so delicate, accepted of the Command, took _St. Sebastian_, and obey’d
+the Regent much more than he was bound to do in Duty.
+
+For this he was continued in the Command of _Guienne_, and particularly of
+_Bourdeaux_. For some time past the Marshal-Duke has been very much at
+Court, and often at his Ducal Lordship in _Picardy_[70].
+
+_Victor-Maria_ Duke _d’Estrées_, whom I ought to have mention’d before the
+Duke of _Berwic_, as being the oldest Marshal of _France_, is
+Vice-Admiral of the Kingdom, a Duke and Peer, a Grandee of _Spain_, a
+Commandeur of the King’s Orders, and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. He is
+the last of his Family, which has been render’d illustrious by all the
+great Dignities of the Kingdom ever since[71] the charming _Gabriella
+d’Estrées_, who was Mistress to _Henry_ IV. He lives with as much Splendor
+and Magnificence as most Noblemen in _France_: His House is open to all
+Foreigners of Distinction, and Men of Knowledge and Learning are well
+receiv’d in it. The Marshal has a fine Library, a most beautiful Cabinet
+of Medals, and a complete Collection of antique Stones that are grav’d.
+Besides the Estate of the Family of _Estrées_, of which he is the only
+Head, he made great Acquisitions by _Missisippi_ Stock, and there are few
+Sovereigns that have finer Diamonds. Since the Troubles that arose in
+_Bretagne_ during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, the Assembly of
+the States of that Province is always held by this Nobleman. The Nobility
+of _Bretagne_ extol him very much, and find a great Difference between
+their Treatment by this Marshal, and the rigid haughty Air with which the
+late Marshal _de Montesquiou_ carried it to them during the Regency. Tho’
+the Marshal _d’Estrées_ is very much attach’d to the Court, yet he is
+often at _Paris_, where he has a very fine House, and is visited by the
+greatest and the best People in the Kingdom. The Marshal’s Lady, who is
+_Noailles_, Sister to the Countess _de Tholouse_, was formerly a Lady of
+the Bed-chamber to the Duchess of _Burgundy_; she has all the Politeness
+of the ancient Court, and tho’ she is past the Bloom of her Youth, she is
+still one of the most amiable Women at Court, and by her Management there
+is not a more agreeable Family than hers in the Kingdom. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 22, 1732._
+
+Yesterday I loiter’d away a good deal of Time with a Couple of
+_Englishmen_, to whom, as they call it in _Italy_, I was a _Cicero_[72].
+Nevertheless, you must not expect me to give you an Account of every thing
+I saw; and besides, so much has been already said of _Versailles_, that
+you shall hardly find one Book in twenty, almost, but what treats of the
+Beauties of this Royal Palace.
+
+After having shew’d my _English_ Gentlemen the Castle, the Chapel, the
+Stables and the Park, I carried them to the Royal Abbey of _St. Cyr_,
+which they had heard so much Talk of, that they long’d to see it: ’Tis a
+grand stately House, and worthy of the Magnificence of the great Monarch
+who founded it, at the Solicitation of Madame _de Maintenon_, for the
+Education of two hundred and fifty young Damsels, whose Families are not
+able to give them a Maintenance suitable to their Birth. Immediately after
+the Demise of _Lewis_ XIV. Madame _de Maintenon_ retir’d to _St. Cyr_, and
+there she always dwelt till she died. She went thither indeed, even
+during the King’s Illness, as soon as she found that the Physicians had
+given him over; the King, however, contrary to all Expectation, recover’d;
+and not seeing Madame _de Maintenon_, ask’d where she was: Upon this the
+Lady return’d, when the King gave her a handsome Reprimand for abandoning
+him, and desir’d her to stay with him as long as he had any Remains of
+Life. Madame _de Maintenon_ obey’d, but the King’s Breath was no sooner
+out of his Body, than she took Coach, and went to _St. Cyr_, with a Design
+never to stir from it as long as she liv’d.
+
+She had the Consolation, however, of receiving Visits there from all the
+Princes and Princesses of the Blood; and even the late Madame the Regent’s
+Mother, who never visited Madame _de Maintenon_ in the King’s Life-time,
+thought she could not excuse herself from making her a Visit. The Regent
+went thither likewise, and told her, she might depend upon his punctual
+Regard to every Tittle that the late King had order’d in her Favour by his
+last Will and Testament. Madame _de Maintenon_ return’d him Thanks, and
+said, that as she was resolv’d to be retir’d for the Residue of her Life,
+she desir’d but 40,000 Livres a Year for her Subsistance. Four Years after
+this she died, and was interr’d in the Church of _St. Cyr_, in the Middle
+of the Choir, in a Tomb of plain black Marble, with the following Epitaph
+engrav’d on it; which I lik’d so well, that I have copied it Word for
+Word, and send it to you, because I don’t believe you have seen it
+elsewhere.
+
+                                CY  GIT
+
+      _Très baute & très puissante Dame
+      Madame_ FRANCOISE D’AUBIGNE,
+      _Marquise de_ MAINTENON;
+      _Femme Illustre, Femme vraiment Chrétienne;
+      Cette Femme forte que le Sage chercha vainement dans son Siecle,
+      Et qu’il nous eût proposé pour modele, s’il eût vêcu dans le nôtre.
+        Sa Naissance fut très noble.
+      On loua de bonne heure son Esprit, & plus encore sa Vertu.
+      La Sagesse, la Douceur, la Modestie sormoient son Caractere,
+        Qui ne se démentit jamais.
+      Toujours égale dans les differentes situations de sa vie;
+      Mêmes Principles, mêmes Regles, mêmes Vertus.
+        Fidèle dans les exercices de Piété,
+      Tranquille au milieu des agitations de la Cour,
+        Simple dans la Grandeur,
+        Pauvre dans le centre des richesses,
+        Humble au comble des honneurs;
+      Révérée de_ LOUIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environnée de sa gloire,
+      Autorisée par sa plus intime confiance,
+        Dépositaire de ses graces,
+      Qui n’a jamais fait d’usage de son pouvoir,
+        Que par sa bonté.
+      Une autre Esther dans la faveur,
+      Une seconde Judith dans la Retraite & l’Oraison:
+        La Mere des Pauvres,
+      L’Asyle toujours sûr des malheureux,
+          Une vie si illustre
+      A été terminée par un mort sainte
+          Et precieuse devant Dieu.
+      Son Corps est resté dans cette sainte maison,
+        Dont elle avoit procuré l’établissement;
+          Et elle a laissé à l’univers
+          L’exemple de ses vertus.
+        Décédée le 15 d’Avril 1719.
+        Née le 28 de Novembre 1635._
+
+                                 i. e.
+
+                               HERE LIES
+
+      _The most high and most potent Lady_
+      _The Lady_ FRANCESE D’AUBIGNY,
+         _Marchioness of_ MAINTENON.
+      _A Wife illustrious_[73], _a Woman truly Christian;
+      That virtuous Heroine whom the wise Man sought in vain in his Time,
+      And whom he wou’d have propos’d to us for a Pattern, if he had liv’d
+          in ours.
+        She was of Birth most noble,
+      Her Wit was early commended, and much more her Virtue.
+      Sobriety, good Nature and Modesty, form’d her Character,
+        From which she never derogated.
+      Always unchangeable in the various Situations of her Life;
+      The same Principles, the same Rules, the same Virtues.
+        Sincere in the Exercises of Piety,
+      Tranquil during the Storms at Court,
+          Plain in the Midst of Grandeur,
+      Poor in the Centre of Wealth,_
+        _Humble at the Summit of Honours;
+      Rever’d by_ LEWIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environ’d with his Glory,
+      Vested with his most intimate Confidence,
+        The Depositary of his Favours,
+      Who never made use of her Power
+        But to do Good.
+      Another_ Esther _in Favour,
+      A second_ Judith _in Retirement and Prayer:
+        The Mother of the Poor,
+      The never-failing Asylum of the Unfortunate.
+          A Life so illustrious
+      Was cut off by a Death Pious,
+          And precious in the Sight of God.
+      Her Body lies in this Sacred House,
+        Of which she procur’d the Establishment:
+          And her Virtues she has left
+          To the World for a Pattern.
+        She departed this Life_ April 15, 1719.
+        _Being born the 28th of_ November 1635.
+
+My _Englishmen_ thought the Panegyric upon Madame _de Maintenon_ a little
+too much strain’d. I confess that I think she is well equipp’d with a
+Character; and if it be true, that she was as humble as her Epitaph
+imports, I make no doubt, but if she had liv’d to see such an Encomium, it
+would have put her Modesty sadly out of Countenance: For ’tis certain,
+that this Lady had a very great Fund of Virtue and Piety; and I have heard
+it said by Persons, who otherwise had no reason to be fond of her, that
+’twas impossible to be acquainted with her, and not to esteem her.
+
+When I return’d from _St. Cyr_, I came hither to see M. _Voltaire_’s
+Tragedy of _Brutus_, which is so fine a Piece, that I and my _English_
+Companions were charm’d with it: We not only admir’d the Conduct and
+Versification of it, but we applauded the Freedom with which the Author
+makes the _Romans_ think and speak. Mean time, the _French_ are not of our
+Opinion. _The Respect due to Royalty_, say they, _is not well preserv’d in
+it_. They censure the Author _for presuming to confine the Royal Authority
+within the Bounds of Justice_. _M._ de Voltaire, say they, _never could
+imbibe these Sentiments in_ France. _’Tis very plain that he contracted
+them beyond Sea. They may be relish’d well enough by the_ English; _but to
+us they are intolerable: And if M._ de Voltaire _goes on to write in this
+Manner, he may, perhaps, have an Apartment in the_ Bastile. I confess that
+terrible Name dumb-founder’d me, and I did not dare to say a Word in the
+Author’s Vindication, for fear of being deem’d his Accomplice. The
+_Bastile_ and the _Holy Office_ are two Terms which always silenc’d me,
+even when I have had the strongest Inclination to speak my Mind.
+
+As for the Comedians, they perform’d Wonders. One _du Frêne_ actually
+out-did himself. He is Brother to _Quinaut_, an excellent Comedian in the
+Parts which require Humour, but excessively out-of-the-Way in Tragedy; and
+take him off the Theatre, impertinent beyond Expression, as is also his
+Brother, tho’ they are both Men of Wit.
+
+The Players are much more respected here than they are elsewhere, which
+makes them insolent to the last Degree. The Nobility are fond of their
+Company, and admit them to their Parties of Pleasure: And as they are
+Kings upon the Stage, and Equals and Companions at Table with the best
+Lords in the Kingdom, no wonder that it turns their Brains. But that which
+must needs render them arrogant beyond Measure, is a late Instance of
+Regard paid them by the _French_ Academy, who, by a Letter, invited the
+Performers in the _French_ Comedy, to hear an Oration made in their
+Academy; which the Comedians took for such an Honour, that the very next
+Day they offer’d the Members of the Academy Admission to their Comedy
+_Gratis_; which the Academicians made no Scruple to accept, to the great
+Amazement of the whole City of _Paris_, which blames the Members for it
+not a little: The Fault is laid at the Door of certain Authors, who are in
+League with the Comedians, and gave the Invitation without consulting the
+rest of the Members, of whom several that had, no Hand in the Transaction,
+protested against the Conduct of those who had, the Consequence of which
+was a Quarrel in the Academy. Indeed, one would imagine by that Day’s
+Work, that they did not really consider what they were doing; and the
+Noblemen who are Members of the Academy, cry out against it very much.
+’Tis true, that the Comedians who presume to offer Admission _Gratis_ to a
+Marshal _de Villars_, a Marshal _d’Estrées_, or other Noblemen of that
+Rank, are not mean Fellows, and deserve the Appellation of the _Company
+of_ Comedians, instead of _Troop_; in order to distinguish them from the
+Strollers in the[74] Country. Why then should not they be honour’d? The
+Actors in the Opera, who, as well as they, divert the Public for Lucre,
+have, indeed, the Privilege, that a Gentleman may be admitted among them
+without Disparagement to his Title. This is a Favour, says a modern Author
+very justly, which had never yet been granted to those who perform in the
+public Spectacles, and who give Diversion for Money; because in most of
+the Ages of Christianity, they had been look’d upon as Persons
+excommunicated and infamous, by reason of the Corruption in Morals, owing
+to their then too licentious Representations, which, perhaps, is no longer
+apprehended to be the Case at present. ’Tis certain, that if a Performer
+in an Opera may be noble, I can’t see why a Person mayn’t be the same in a
+Comedy; tho’ ’tis my Opinion, that if Stage-players may be Gentlemen,
+Rope-dancers and Tumblers have a Title to it; for, besides the Honour they
+have of diverting the Public, they run the Risk of breaking their Necks
+every Day; and is not that the Lot of the Nobility?
+
+As I returned Yesterday with my _Englishmen_ from _Versailles_, we went to
+_St. Cloud_, where we had the Honour to see the Duke _de Chartres_, the
+only Son of the Duke of _Orleans_. This Prince was in the Park, to see a
+young Officer of the Train of Artillery make Proofs of some Pieces of
+Ordnance. We were surpriz’d to see how attentively the young Prince
+observed every thing, and to hear him ask the Officer such Questions as
+were not to be expected from one of his Years. We had reason also to
+applaud the gracious and polite Reception which he gave us. To be plain, I
+was charm’d to see a Grandson of the late _Madame_, so worthy of herself,
+and of the illustrious Blood from which he is descended.
+
+_St. Cloud_ is a Palace belonging to the Duke of _Orleans_, first Prince
+of the Blood, and was built by Order of the late Monsieur _Philip_ of
+_France_, (Brother of _Lewis_ XIV.) who added very magnificent Gardens to
+it. ’Tis certain, that if the late King had chose _St. Cloud_ for his
+Residence, instead of _Versailles_, he might have had a finer Building
+with less Expence. What is most admir’d at _St. Cloud_, are the Gallery
+and Salon, both painted by _Mignard_, the Cascade, and the great
+Water-work, which throws up the Water a hundred Feet high, and which
+nothing exceeds of the Kind, but the Work that was made by the Direction
+of an[75]_English_ Gentleman at _Herenhausen_, near _Hanover_, in the
+Reign of King _George_ I.
+
+_St. Cloud_ has been fatal to several Princes of the Royal Family. _Henry_
+III. was assassinated there on the first of _August_ 1589, at eight
+o’Clock in the Morning, by _James Clement_. _Henrietta_ of _England_,
+first Wife to the late _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, only
+Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. died there suddenly of a Colic, on the 30th of
+_June_ 1670. She said that she was poison’d, for which Reason the King
+caus’d her Corpse to be open’d in Presence of the _English_ Ambassador.
+’Tis a difficult Matter, to judge whether that Princess’s Suspicions were
+true; for the Physicians and Surgeons found all her noble Parts corrupted,
+tho’ she was but twenty-six Years old. Her Husband paid his Tribute to
+Nature on a sudden, in the same Palace, on the 4th of _June_ 1701.
+
+What I have mentioned to you of the unhappy Catastrophe of the last of the
+_Valois_, puts me in Mind of a Passage in History, that _Te Deum_ was
+forgot in the Ceremony of his Coronation; that the Crown fell from his
+Head; and that there was no Oil in the Sacred Phial, to perform the
+customary[76] Unction; which were then taken for ill Omens, and Time
+prov’d them but too true.
+
+Since I am upon Tragical Events, I will mention a Thing to you that lately
+happen’d in _England_, and which I was assur’d by the _English_ Gentlemen,
+in our Return from _Versailles_, is a certain Fact.
+
+One _Richard Smith_, a Bookbinder, and his Wife _Bridget_, were about a
+Fortnight ago found hanging in their Chamber near their Bed-side, about
+three or four Feet Distance from one another; and in the next Room, their
+Daughter, who was but two Years old, was found shot thro’ the Head. There
+were three Letters left upon the Table, of which the following is the most
+material; and I send you a Copy of it, because it will let you into the
+_Stoic_ Character of the _English_ Nation. ’Tis directed to Mr.
+_Brindley_, a Bookbinder at _London_, in that which is call’d _New
+Bondstreet_.
+
+_Cousin_ BRINDLEY,
+
+    ‘These Actions, consider’d in all their Circumstances, being
+    somewhat uncommon, it may not be improper to give some Account
+    of the Cause, and that it was an inveterate Hatred we conceiv’d
+    against Poverty and Rags; Evils, which through a Train of
+    unlucky Accidents were become inevitable; for we appeal to all
+    that ever knew us, whether we were either idle or extravagant;
+    whether or no we have not taken as much Pains to get our Living
+    as our Neighbours, altho’ not attended with the same Success.
+    We apprehend the taking our Child’s Life away to be a
+    Circumstance for which we shall be generally condemn’d; but for
+    our own Parts, we are perfectly easy upon that Head. We are
+    satisfy’d it is less Cruelty to take the Child with us, even
+    supposing a State of Annihilation, as some dream of, than to
+    leave her friendless in the World, expos’d to Ignorance and
+    Misery. Now in order to obviate some Censures, which may proceed
+    either from Ignorance or Malice, we think it proper to inform
+    the World, that we firmly believe the Existence of Almighty God;
+    that this Belief of ours is not an implicit Faith, but deduced
+    from the Nature and Reason of Things: We believe the Existence
+    of an Almighty Being from the Consideration of his wonderful
+    Works, from a Consideration of those innumerable celestial and
+    glorious Bodies, and from their wonderful Order and Harmony. We
+    have also spent some Time in viewing those Wonders which are to
+    be seen in the minute Part of the World, and that with great
+    Pleasure and Satisfaction, from all which Particulars, we are
+    satisfied, that such amazing Things could not possibly be
+    without a first Mover, without the Existence of an Almighty
+    Being: And as we know the wonderful God to be Almighty, so we
+    cannot help believing but that he is also good, not implacable;
+    not like such Wretches as Men are, not taking Delight in the
+    Miseries of his Creatures; for which Reason we resign up our
+    Breaths unto him, without any terrible Apprehensions, submitting
+    ourselves to those Ways, which in his Goodness he shall please
+    to appoint after Death. We also believe the Existence of
+    unbody’d Creatures, and think we have Reason for that Belief,
+    altho’ we don’t pretend to know their Way of subsisting. We are
+    not ignorant of those Laws made _in Terrorem_; but leave the
+    Disposal of our Bodies to the Wisdom of the Coroner and his
+    Jury; the Thing being indifferent to us where our Bodies are
+    laid: From whence it will appear how little anxious we are about
+    a _Hic jacet_; we for our Parts neither expect, nor desire such
+    Honours, but shall content ourselves with a borrowed Epitaph,
+    _viz._
+
+      ‘Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb,
+      Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb.
+      Where we were born or bred, it matters not,
+      Who were our Parents, or have us begot.
+      We were, but are not: think no more of us;
+      For as we are, so you’ll be turn’d to Dust.
+
+    ‘It is the Opinion of _Naturalists_, that our Bodies are at
+    certain Stages of Life compos’d of new Matter, so that a great
+    many poor People have new Bodies oftner than new Cloaths: Now as
+    Divines are not able to inform us which of those several Bodies
+    shall rise at the Resurrection, it is very probable, that the
+    deceased Body may be for ever silent as well as any other.’
+
+                                                               Sign’d,
+                                                        RICHARD SMITH.
+                                                        BRIDGET SMITH.
+
+The Coroner’s Inquest, after the usual Formalities, brought in their
+Verdict, whereby they declared _Richard Smith_ guilty of that Crime, which
+they call in _England_, _Felo de se_, or Self-Murder; and of Wilful Murder
+as to his Child. _Bridget_ was brought in a Lunatic, tho’ she had sign’d
+the Letter with her Husband, and acknowledged that she was equally
+concerned in the Murder of her Child; so that I think her Corpse deserved
+hanging, at least for a little while: And sure I am, that she would not
+have been found a Lunatic here.
+
+There being commonly some little Piece of Entertainment at the End of
+Tragedies, I am now to divert you with some such Farce. ’Tis the Adventure
+of a certain pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, with the Abbé _de Vayrac_, an
+Author, and a Man of[77]Wit. Not many Days ago, as the Abbé was walking on
+Foot, he was overtaken with a Shower of Rain, which made him take Shelter
+under a Penthouse, at a Shop-door. At the same Time, who should pass by in
+a magnificent Coach, driving at a mad Rate, as if he would run over every
+Thing in his Way, but a Counsellor, whose furious Career was stopp’d all
+on a sudden, by something that broke his Harness! This Disaster happen’d
+just at the Place Where the Abbé _de Vayrac_ stood, dress’d like other
+Authors, with an old tatter’d Hat upon his Head, and a shabby Cloak over a
+Coat quite thread-bare. The Thing that most diverted the Counsellor, was
+his Hat, and he order’d one of his Lacqueys to ask him, if it was not as
+old as the Battle of[78]_Rocroy_. You must know, the Lacqueys of this
+Country are more brazen-fac’d and insolent than they are any-where else;
+and the Counsellor’s discharg’d his Errand to a Tittle. M. _l’Abbé_, said
+he, in a Droll Tone, _my Master wants to know in what Battle your Hat
+receiv’d all those Wounds_. _At the Battle of_ Cannæ, _Friend_, reply’d
+the Abbé; and then he laid on five or six heavy Blows upon the impudent
+Ambassador’s Shoulders with his _Cane_. The Counsellor, seeing his
+Domestic so soundly drubb’d, stepp’d instantly out of his Coach, and
+running to the Abbé, said, _What are you doing?_ The Abbé reply’d very
+sedately, _I am chastising Insolence._ _Parbleu_, M. _l’Abbé_, said the
+Counsellor, _I think you are a pleasant Fellow to presume to strike a
+Servant of mine! Surely you don’t know me; for if you did, you would have
+more Respect for my Livery._ _Pardon me_, reply’d the Abbé, _I know you
+very well._ _And who am I?_ said the Counsellor. _Why you are a Fool_,
+reply’d the _Abbé_; upon which the Gentleman thought fit to sneak off.
+This is a very true Story; for I had it from the Abbé _de Vayrac_ himself,
+who told it to me with the same Gravity as he had answer’d the Counsellor.
+
+Tho’ Lacqueys are not commonly the Subjects of Conversation, yet I think
+that those of _Paris_ deserve some Notice. They form so considerable a
+Body, that there are many Kings who have not so numerous an Army. Besides,
+these Fellows make such extraordinary Fortunes, and often rise so quick
+from _Valets_, to be Masters and Gentlemen, that really they ought not to
+be confounded in the Lump with the _European_ Lacqueys. Those of ’em who
+set up for fine Fellows, as many of ’em do, (for in the Livery of _Paris_,
+you meet with every Thing that is handsome and gay) such, I say, as are in
+the Service of some young Noblemen, are commonly Equals and Companions
+with their Masters. There are others who are the Darlings of the Fair Sex;
+and if Satire may be credited, and Appearances, perhaps, into the
+Bargain, there are Ladies even of the first Quality, who don’t always
+treat their Lacqueys like Servants. ’Tis true, they most commonly take
+them out of the Livery, and in order to bring them near their Persons,
+they make them their Pages, or _Valets de Chambre_. Nothing is thought too
+good for these Favourites of _Venus_; they are rigg’d out like Princes,
+and were you to see one of these fortunate Lacqueys, you would naturally
+take him for some Person of Consequence. And indeed, there are some who
+act the Man of Quality to such a Perfection, that nothing can exceed it;
+and they have often better Manners than their Masters. The Airs of
+Importance, and of Quality, are very natural to the _French_. There are
+others of the menial Class, that enjoy the Favour of their young Masters,
+in a Way so uncommon, that one knows not what to think of it; and many of
+those young Gentlemen, forgetting the Respect that is due to their own
+Persons, and their Families, make Parties at Supper with ’em, at which
+Time, I fansy, Conversation is the least Part of the Entertainment. But
+such is the Spirit of Debauchery, that it has infected the Generality of
+the young People at Court; tho’ ’tis true enough, that it ever was so.
+
+I don’t say that excessive Debauchery is the universal Goût of the Nation;
+for, on the contrary, the _French_ are virtuous from the Cradle to the
+Grave, if they are but so happy as to get over the four or five Years of
+juvenile Fury, and to surmount the tumultuous Passions which their great
+Vivacity kindles in their Breasts, and prompts them to do Things at twenty
+Years of Age, which at thirty they detest and abhor; and I affirm of the
+_French_ in general, that they are not vicious by Inclination. The
+Nobleman is infinitely more so, than the Bulk of the People; and whether
+it is bad Company, bad Counsel, or whatever else that misleads him, he
+thinks that to be debauch’d gives him a fine Air; and many of ’em really
+boast of being greater Deboshees, than in Fact they are.
+
+But this does not seem to me to be the Case of the Women (I mean of those
+who are not very rigidly attach’d to the Precepts of Virtue). They always
+preserve an Appearance of Decency, which imposes on such as don’t know
+them: Nor is their Conversation licentious; and if they are naughty, ’tis
+in private. ’Tis certain that our Countrymen don’t do the _French_ Ladies
+Justice. Many of our young Fellows, when they come home from _Paris_,
+affecting to be Coxcombs, tell Stories so much to the Disadvantage of the
+Fair Sex, that most of the _German_ Gentlemen, and especially of our
+Ladies, think the Reverse of what they ought to do. Virtue and Modesty are
+as eminent among the Sex here as elsewhere; and those Whifflers, that give
+themselves the Liberty of scandalizing them, very often know not how to
+call one Woman of Quality by her right Name, and even never saw her
+Antichamber. ’Tis certain, that there are Women of Quality here, who have
+laid aside the Mask; but of these there are so few, that the whole Sex
+ought not to be reproach’d for their Misconduct. I give you my Word and
+Honour, that there are fine young Ladies here, born to charm our Sex, whom
+Calumny itself is obliged to respect; and I don’t see what more can be
+desired. I’ll vouch the same for the young Gentlemen, of whom indeed, the
+greatest Number is very much debauch’d, but there are some that have not
+quitted the Reins of Modesty. A _Tremouille_, a _Luxembourg_, a
+_Boufflers_, and many more, may be set up as Examples to our Youth, who,
+perhaps, would be worse than the Youth of _France_, if they were enter’d
+as young into Company, and seated in the Centre of Joy and Pleasures. But
+I perceive, that instead of a Letter I am drawing a Case. Therefore here I
+drop my Brief, and think my Epistle long enough to be concluded. I am
+intirely Yours, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 28, 1732._
+
+I was puzzled some time ago, to think what could make the _French_ forget
+Father _Girard_ and _la Cadiere_, and the pretended St. _Paris_; for I
+apprehended, those two Articles would be the Subject of Conversation a
+great while longer; but I was mistaken: ’Tis all forgot; and there’s
+something now upon the Tapis, of quite another Kind.
+
+The Archbishop of _Paris_ having thought fit to issue his Mandate for
+suppressing a certain printed Paper, intitled _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_,
+(a Sort of Ecclesiastical News-Journal) the Parliament of _Paris_ was
+disgusted, and made an Arret, condemning the Archbishop’s Mandate. The
+Court took the Prelate’s Part, and declar’d all that was done by the
+Parliament upon this Occasion, null and void. The Parliament standing up
+mightily for its Privileges, which nevertheless it holds only by the good
+Pleasure of its Kings, discontinued its Assemblies, and the King was
+obliged to issue repeated Orders, before the Members would resume their
+Business. Mean time the _Advocates_ and _Solicitors_ have thought fit to
+espouse the Cause of the Parliament, and refuse to plead till the King has
+_done Justice_ to the Parliament, (’tis their own Term) by preserving it
+in the Possession of Appeals against Incroachments; which it has really
+enjoy’d for many Years, and which is the Ground of the present Disputes.
+The Parliament say, that they are the more justifiable in supporting this
+antient Prerogative, because they are obliged to it in Conscience, and for
+the Welfare of the State committed to their Charge. For, say they, what
+would be the Consequence, were the Archbishop’s Mandate to be authorized?
+The Pope and the Bishops would, by Degrees, assume that Right which they
+pretend to, of pronouncing Excommunications for very trivial Causes, and
+even of putting the King himself under an Interdict, and consequently of
+usurping a Temporal Despotic Power under the Umbrage of their Spiritual
+Power, which, say the Parliament, is absolutely contrary to the Liberties
+of the _Gallican_ Church; by Virtue whereof, ’tis sufficient for the
+Parliament alone, in the like Case, to stigmatize and condemn those
+_Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, as they have already done for a long Time.
+
+This is, in general, the Situation of Affairs, and the Substance of the
+Arguments made use of by the Parliament for the Maintenance of their
+Rights, which are stuff’d with Abundance of pompous Terms, such as the
+_Obligations of Conscience_, the _Liberties of the_ Gallican _Church_, and
+a thousand such Expressions, with which the very Hawkers make your Ears
+ring as you go along the Streets. The Ladies too have for the present laid
+aside all the Jargon of Dresses, to learn that Language; and she who us’d
+to talk of Cornets and Gorgets, now assumes the Style of an Advocate,
+pleads for _Gallican_ Liberties, overturns the Church, and sends the
+_Sacred College_ and the _Bishops_ to the Gallies. In short, I can’t
+express to you, how ridiculous the _French_ are in these Cases. Being fond
+of every Thing that’s new, be it good or bad, they catch at it blindfold;
+which is a plain Confirmation of the Inconstancy of these People, who are
+so fickle, that I verily believe, if any one should take a Fancy to preach
+_Mahometanism_ to them, they would embrace it with their usual Levity.
+
+The following, my dear Friend, is a Piece of Poetry, which, I think, is
+good, and make no Doubt will please you. The Subject of it is, Christian
+Tranquillity. If I can pick up any Thing new for you, before I go hence, I
+will not fail to send it to you. I supp’d lately in a Place with M. _de
+Voltaire_, and another Poet, the latter of whom rehearsed a very pretty
+Piece to us, of which he refused to give us a Copy, pretending ’twas
+imperfect; but however, he has promised it to me. When I have it, I will
+send it to you.
+
+            TRANQUILLITÉ                         CHRISTIAN
+            CHRÉTIENNE.                        TRANQUILLITY.
+
+    Surles les Disputes du Tems.        On the Disputes of the Times.
+
+  Plein d’ignorance et de Miseres,    Why wilt, audacious mortal Man,
+  Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux,         So wretched, and so ignorant,
+  Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres   On Mysteries dark and profound
+  Porter un œil trop curieux!         resume to cast an Eye too nice?
+  Toi, pour qui toute la Nature       Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems
+  Ne paroit qu’une Enigme obscure,    But an impenetrable Riddle,
+  Tu sondes les Divins Decrets?       Pretend to fathom God’s Decrees?
+  Tu croi que ton foible gênie        Think’st thou thy feeble Genius can
+  De l’Intelligence infinie           The mighty Secrets e’er unfold
+  Pourra dévoiler les Secrets?        Of infinite Intelligence?
+
+  Crains les ténèbres respectables,  Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades,
+  Où Dieu cache sa Majesté;          Where God his Majesty conceals;
+  De ses Desseins impénétrables      For who the Veil can penetrate
+  Qui peut percer l’obscurité?       Of his impenetrable Schemes?
+  Mesure la vaste étendue            Measure the vast immense Extent
+  De ces Globes, qu’offre à la vue   Of all those Globes that may be seen
+  Un tems serein et lumineux.        In Weather most serene and bright.
+  Mais arrête ici ton audace,        But here thy fond Presumption check;
+  Tu ne peux voir que la surface     For thou nought but the Surface seest
+  De ce Théatre merveilleux.         Of this Theatre wonderful.
+
+  Où t’emporte l’ardeur extréme       Where will thy furious Ardor stop,
+  De tout comprendre, et de tout      All Things to comprehend and see?
+       voir?
+  Tu ne te connois pas toi-même:      And know’st not what thou art
+  L’Esprit échape à son savoir;           thyself,
+  Et la Raison impérieuse             Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds:
+  De la Grace victorieuse             Will then imperious Reason dare
+  Veut pénétrer la Profondeur!        Presume to penetrate the Depths
+  +Paul+, tout rempli de              Of all-victorious Grace Divine?
+      sa Lumiere,                     Great Paul, in whom its
+  Nous apprend quelle est la maniere  Light shone full,
+  Dont elle agit sur notre cœur.      Explains to us the Manner how
+                                      Grace operates upon our Hearts.
+
+  Je sens en moi que la Nature        I feel within, that Nature’s self
+  Veut établir ma Liberté;            To fix my Freedom makes Efforts;
+  Elle se plaint, elle murmure,       And when her Power is controll’d
+  Quand son pouvoir est disputé.      She murmurs inward, and complains.
+  Mais si j’interroge mon Ame         But if my Soul I do but ask
+  Comment une céleste flâme           Which way a Flame celestial
+  La fait agir, la fait mouvoir;      Induces it to act and move;
+  Je crains que cette Ame hautaine    I fear this haughty swelling Soul
+  Ne donne à la puissance humaine,    To human Power will ascribe
+  Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir.      That which to Pow’r Divine is due.
+
+  Surpris de l’Intervalle immense     Astonish’d at the Space immense
+  Qu’on voit de l’Homme au Créateur,  Betwixt the Creature and Creator,
+  Si je n’admets une Puissance        If I do not a Pow’r confess
+  Qui concourt avec son Auteur,       Concurring with its Author,
+  Ce n’est plus pour moi qu’un        Free Agency, or that Free-will
+      vain titre,
+  Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre, Of which my Reason so much vaunts,
+  Que ma Raison sais tant vanter:     Is but for me an empty Plea:
+  Je ne connois plus de Justice,      That Justice I no longer own,
+  Qui récompense et qui punisse,      Which doth reward and punish too,
+  Ce qui ne peut rien mériter.        What strictly neither can deserve.
+
+  Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue         Thus is my Soul held in Suspense
+  Entre les Sentimens divers.         Betwixt Opinions contrary.
+  Par-tout où je porte ma vue,        Where-e’er my roving Eyes I turn
+  Je vous des Abîmes ouverts.         Abysses open to my View.
+  Pour me garantir du naufrage,       For fear of being cast away,
+  Je n’ose quitter le rivage;         I dare not quit the Sight of Shore;
+  La crainte assûre mon repos.        And ’tis this Fear my Peace secures.
+  Combien, dans cette Mer profonde,   How many, in this Ocean deep,
+  Flottant à la merci de l’onde,      Floating at Mercy of the Waves,
+  Se perdent au milieu des flots?     Are by those Waves immerg’d
+                                          and lost!
+
+  De tant de disputes fameuses,      Let us the dang’rous Tracks avoid
+  Où nous embarque notre orgueil,    Of those Disputes but too well known,
+  Fuyons les Routes dangereuse:      In which our Pride engageth us:
+  L’Homme à Lui-même est un écueil;  Man’s to himself a fatal Rock;
+  Dans le petis Monde sensible,      For in this little World of ours
+  Est un Dédale imperceptible,       There is a Dadalus unseen,
+  Dont nous ignorons les Détours.    Whose Windings are to us unknown.
+  La Foi de notre sort decide:       ’Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide,
+  Elle tient le fil qui nous guide;  She holds the Thread which
+  Sans elle, nous errons toujours.       is our Guide;
+                                     Or else we always go astray.
+
+  Heureux le cœur simple              Happy that honest docile Heart,
+       et docile,
+  Qui sans raisonner sur la Foi,      Which without reas’ning about Faith
+  Respecte dans nos Saints Conciles   Our Holy Councils venerates,
+  Le sacré dépôt de la Foi;           The Sacred Guardians of that Faith;
+  Ne franchissant point la Barriere,  And dares not climb o’er
+                                          that Barrier.
+  Que le Pere de la lumiere           Fix’d by the Father of all Light
+  Met aux vains efforts de l’esprit.  Against proud Reason’s vain Efforts.
+  A quoi nos soins doivent-ils
+      tendre?                         To what shou’d our Endeavours tend?
+  Est-ce à pratiquer, ou comprendre   Is it to practice, or comprise
+  Ce que le Ciel nous a prescrit?     The Things which Heaven has
+                                          prescrib’d?
+
+  Laissons la Sagesse éternalle       Let’s to Eternal Wisdom leave
+  Disposer des cœurs à son gré:       The sole Disposal of all Hearts:
+  Il suffit à l’Homme fidelle,        The true Believer is content,
+  Que par lui Dieu soit adoré.        That God by him shou’d be ador’d.
+  Qu’importe à ces Docteurs habiles,  What do these cunning Doctors gain,
+  Que par des Raisons trop subtiles   Who by too subtle Arguments
+  Un Système soit combattu?           A System strive to overthrow?
+  Que produit leur haute science,     What does their Knowledge great
+                                          avail,
+  Si Dieu ne met dans la Balance      If God but in the Balance cast
+  Que l’Innocence & la Vertu?         Virtue and Innocence to turn the
+                                          Scale?
+
+It were to be wish’d, that every _Frenchman_ had the same Christian
+Tranquillity; for then they would not worry one another as they now do,
+nor would they give such a Scandal to _Europe_. But the Matter is push’d
+so far, that I don’t foresee how a Stop can be put to it. It will be
+always a Worm preying upon the Vitals of _France_, and a Bone of
+Contention between the Court and Parliament.
+
+Some Days ago, the Court banish’d the Abbé _Pucelle_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament. This Man is another _Broussel_, and I believe, he would be
+overjoy’d, if he could revive the ancient Barricades which were erected
+during the Minority of _Lewis_ XIV. after the Queen Mother _Anne_ of
+_Austria_ had caus’d that same _Broussel_ to be put under an Arrest. But
+as yet there does not appear to be so much Rout about the Abbé _Pucelle_,
+notwithstanding he made a very great Noise in Parliament. There he spoke
+like an Angel, and every body said he defended the Liberties of the
+_Gallican_ Church so well, that nobody could do it better. Nevertheless, I
+am apprehensive, that he will be at a Loss how to vindicate his own
+Liberty; and I am very much mistaken, if he has not a Lodging at
+_Vincennes_, or the _Bastile_, before he dies. The Parliament leaves no
+Stone unturn’d, that he may be recalled; and will do no Business at all,
+till that dear Brother of theirs is restored. Mean time, all Affairs are
+at a Stand, by which private Persons are the Sufferers: And yet these very
+Counsellors, who make a Scruple of Conscience to register an Edict from
+the King, which infring’d the ancient Privileges of the Parliament, don’t
+care what becomes of poor Widows and Orphans, that languish for the Issue
+of a Process kept in Suspense by these Domestic Quarrels! In Truth, I
+cannot but admire the good Nature of the King, and the Moderation of the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_. I am sure, that the Regent, and the Cardinal
+_Dubois_, would not have had so much Patience: For the former sent the
+Parliament to _Pontoise_, and caus’d the Members to be arrested and
+banish’d for a less Offence; and at the Time too, when the Parliament
+remonstrated against the Alteration of the Species, in which the Fortune
+of every _Frenchman_ was concerned. Hitherto all the Representations of
+the Parliament for the Return of the Abbé _Pucelle_, have been of no
+Effect; and I fansy, that the first President will be forced to make
+another Trip to _Compiegne_, where the King has for some Time past
+resided[79].
+
+A Couplet has lately been made upon the Abbé’s Exile: I don’t remember the
+Beginning of it, but it ends thus;
+
+_Que de bonnes gens vont pleurer!_ _Que de filles vont crier_,
+_Rendez-nous_ Pucelle, _ô gai_, _Rendez-nous_ Pucelle!
+
+_i. e._
+
+How do the good Women lament! How do the Daughters cry, Give us back
+_Pucelle_, Give us back _Pucelle_[80]!
+
+You must allow the _French_ are merry Mortals. Let what will happen,
+they’ll find something or other in it to divert them. Every thing is to
+them a Subject for a Song; and I remember to have heard of a Ballad they
+made and sung upon the Plague in _Provence_, in 1720. Mean time, these
+Jarrings between the Court and Parliament have absolutely effac’d the
+Memory of the blessed _Paris_. ’Tis true, he began to be out of Vogue,
+after the Court caus’d the Church-yard of _St. Medard_ to be stopp’d up,
+where he lies interr’d. If this had been done at first, a great deal of
+Scandal would have been prevented. I am very sorry I can’t stay to see
+what will be the End of all these Things; but my Affairs call me to
+_Germany_, whither I propose to set out the first Opportunity; therefore
+write to me no more at present.
+
+Two Days ago, I saw such a Slur put upon the Charms of a young Lady, that
+she was thoroughly mortified. ’Twas the Marchioness _de R----_, one of the
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber. She has been us’d, for a long time, to daub her
+Face very awkwardly, with a great deal of White, Red, and Patches; but on
+that Day she out-did herself. She came into the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, on Purpose to be admir’d; for she has the Reputation of a
+very great Coquette: But she was hooted at by a great many smart Fellows
+that follow’d her, and gather’d all the Mob about her, so that the poor
+Lady was glad to retire; and being oblig’d to wait a little for her Coach,
+was very much hiss’d into the Bargain by those prodigal Puppies the
+Lacqueys; so that in my Life I never saw a Woman more run down.
+
+The same Night I supped with the Marquis _de L----_, whom I had never seen
+before. I was told by a certain Lady, That he ow’d his Fortune to an old
+Woman: For tho’ he was a Man of a good Family, yet, being a younger
+Brother, he was not rich. When he was twenty Years of Age, he pleased the
+Marchioness _de L----_, who was threescore and ten, to such a Degree, that
+she offer’d to marry him; and the Marquis, who was then but a plain
+Gentleman, did not want very much Intreaty to accept the Proposal; for
+tho’ he was a Man of a handsome Presence, he did not presume to think that
+any young Woman would fall in Love with him, who had one hundred and fifty
+thousand good Livres a Year to her Fortune, which was what the Marchioness
+really had to bestow upon whom she pleased. As the two Lovers return’d
+from the Church of _St. Sulpice_, where they were married, the Marchioness
+carried her Spouse to her own House; and leading him into an Apartment,
+_You need not be afraid, Sir_, said she; _don’t imagine that I married
+you to toy with. This is your Apartment; mine is on the other Side of the
+House. You shall lie here, and I’ll lie in my own Chamber. I was willing
+to make a Man of you, because I took you for a deferring young Fellow: But
+this I could not do, without taking you to be my Husband; and I had rather
+it should be said, that I am an old Fool for marrying a young Fellow, than
+to give any Colour for reporting, that I keep you in Pay. ’Tis more
+honourable both for you and me, that we are married; for now I can do what
+I please for you without the Censure of the Public. This, too, is what I
+have resolv’d on; and as I have no Relations, you may depend upon it, that
+all I have in the World will be one Day or other your own. All the
+Acknowledgment I desire of you, is some little Share in your Respect, and
+I am persuaded you are too much of a Gentleman to use me ill._ Judge you
+how much the Marquis was surprised, at a Speech which he so little
+expected. He was ready to fall at the Feet of his Bride, and to give her
+Proofs of his Ecstasy of Love, when she push’d him from her, and said,
+_None of these extraordinary Fits, I beseech you, Sir; let us live
+together like Friends: All the rest is superfluous._ In short, she gave
+him to understand, ’twas her absolute Determination, that he should never
+think of her as his Wife. The Marquis was obliged to comply; and after
+having liv’d thus in perfect Harmony for seven Years, the Lady died, and
+left her Husband Heir to all her Estate.
+
+The young Fellows undoubtedly stand the best Chance for the great
+Fortunes. I had Engagements here, when I was but twenty-two Years of Age,
+with an old Lady too, but she was not altogether to disinterested as the
+Marchioness _de L----_; for tho’ she was kind to me, she obliged me to a
+great deal of Duty. This Lady of mine was forty Years older than myself;
+yet what with Patches, and the Red and the White, her Charms were renewed
+every Day to such a Degree, that ’twas well I was twenty-two Years of Age,
+or else they would have frightened me. But fourscore thousand Livres a
+Year, which I always kept in View, made me take that for natural, which
+was only artificial; insomuch that if I had been put to my Oath, I know
+not whether I should not have sworn that my superannuated Mistress was but
+in her Teens. We lived a couple of Years together very lovingly. The Lady
+happened to have two Sons living, old enough both of ’em, to be my
+Fathers; yet she did not despair of having another Brood. For this End she
+proposed Matrimony to me, and I freely consented. But my Sons-in-law _in
+futuro_, being advertised, by whom I know not, where I had appointed a
+Meeting with their Mother, came and fell at her Feet, and conjured her not
+to wrong them and their Children, (for they were both married) by marrying
+me. The Lady was stagger’d in her Resolution, and was just going to
+promise her Sons, that she would not have me; when I came to her in the
+Nick of Time, and so encouraged her by my Presence, that she got the
+better of her Weakness.
+
+Mean time, the Sons sprung a new Mine, which answered their End. Their
+Mother was a Coquet, but one of the pious Sort, and devoted that Time to
+God, which she did not spend with me, or at her Toilet. The Sons detached
+a Priest of _St. Sulpice_ to her. The holy Man chose his Opportunity when
+I was abroad. I did not foresee, that a Blow would come from such a
+Quarter; or else the _Swiss_, and all her Domestics, being my Creatures, I
+could easily have kept him out of the House. He discharged his Commission
+so effectually, that he prevailed to have the Signing of the Marriage
+Articles, which were to have been executed the very next Day, put off for
+three Months longer. I was not very much chagrin’d when I heard this News;
+for I confess, I flatter’d myself, that ’twas not possible for the Lady to
+escape me. By the Description I have given you of my Sweetheart, you will
+imagine that I was not over Head and Ears in Love. Whatever Scruple the
+Priest of _St. Sulpice_ had raised in her, she carried it to me the same
+as ever: We still liv’d very lovingly together, and I had considerable
+Presents made to me, which I squandered away as fast as I received. At the
+same Time, I did not dare to mention any Writings for my Security; and to
+talk to a Mistress of threescore Years and ten, about making her Last Will
+and Testament, was, I thought, a strange kind of Courtship, and the Way to
+spoil all.
+
+Nevertheless, this Misfortune fell upon me, when I least of all expected
+it. As I went one Morning into my Dear’s Chamber, I found her at her
+Toilet, complaining of a great Pain in her Head. She told me, That she was
+in a sad Quandary too, because she had invited People to Dinner, but was
+not in a Condition to keep them Company; and she desired me, therefore, to
+do them the Honours of her House: But I prevailed with her to send Word to
+those whom she had invited, that she was ill, and that she should be glad
+to see them another Time. I then left her, with a Promise to come back and
+dine with her; and having taken a Walk, I returned accordingly; when I
+found her dress’d more gay than usual. She told me, that a Dish or two of
+Coffee had quite remov’d her Head-ach, and that she had trick’d herself up
+to please me. We din’d together, but she eat very little, and began very
+soon to complain again; so that I made her lie down upon the Bed, and
+taking a Book in my Hand, I sat down by her to read, while she rested: But
+all on a sudden, I felt her lay hold of my Hand, and as I turned about to
+her, my Mistress gave my Hand a Squeeze, and that Instant expir’d. I
+called for Help, and both Surgeons and Physicians came, by whose Order she
+was blooded; but ’twas to no Purpose: For _there’s no returning from the
+Shore of the Dead_.
+
+This Accident so surprized me, that I did not so much as think of securing
+my own Effects; but went into my Room, and presently I was given to
+understand, that one of the Sons of the Deceased was come with an Officer
+to seal up all her Effects. I did not in the least oppose it, nor, indeed,
+had I any manner of Title to dispute it. But my Good-nature only made the
+Son the more insolent; for he even came into my own Apartment, to seal up
+such Effects as belong’d to me. I told him, that if he did not withdraw, I
+would make my Servants, and those of the Deceased, who had all a Respect
+for me, turn him out. During this, the late M. _de N----_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament, who was very much my Friend, came to see me, who advised me to
+quit my Quarters with all Speed, and to pack up every Thing that belong’d
+to me immediately. He also offer’d me Room in his House for my Furniture,
+and other Effects; which Offer I accepted, and in a few Hours every Thing
+of mine was clear’d off of the Premises. The Sons, after this, threaten’d
+to enter an Action against me; but as they had no Proof of any Thing that
+I ow’d to their Mother, they did not presume to molest me. If I had been
+of the Temper then, that I am now, I should not have so soon forgot the
+Loss I suffer’d; for, besides a good She-Friend, which is a rare and
+precious Thing, I lost the Hopes of a splendid Fortune.
+
+I know not how it came into my Head, to entertain you with my _quondam_
+Amours. But ’tis a Vein of Prating which I am indulg’d in, more by you
+than by any body. Farewel, my Dear, you will hear no more of me about this
+Country, for I am preparing to quit it the very first Opportunity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Brussels, June 4, 1732._
+
+When I left _Paris_, I kept on the Pavement all the Way to Chantilly,
+which may pass for the finest Seat in the Kingdom, since the great
+Additions made to it by the Duke of _Bourbon_, who is the Lord of it. The
+Forest likewise, of _Chantilly_, is as fine as any thing that ever Art and
+Nature form’d. ’Tis a magnificent Palace, the Stables are stately, and the
+Park is adorned with the finest Pieces of Water in the World. _Lewis_ XIV,
+who was always very desirous of being the Master of this House, wanted to
+purchase it of the late Prince. The latter made Answer to him, That it was
+at his Service, only he begged him, he would make him the Keeper of it
+from that Moment. The King perceived, that the Prince resigned it to him
+with some Reluctance, and therefore spoke no more of it.
+
+The Duke _de Bourbon_, who is certainly the richest Prince in _Europe_,
+that is not a Sovereign, lives very much at CHANTILLY, since he is no
+longer in the Ministry. There is always a very numerous Court, and he
+lives there more like a King, than a Prince of the Blood.
+
+After having walked sufficiently about _Chantilly_, I went and lay at
+_Senlis_, and next Day arrived in good Time at CAMBRAY, a City famous upon
+several Accounts; but its Beauty does not answer its Reputation.
+_Cambray_, the Capital of the _Cambresis_, was formerly an Imperial City,
+and its Archbishop was a Sovereign and Prince of the Empire. _France_
+having seized _Cambray_, there remains nothing more to the Archbishop, of
+so many fine Prerogatives, but the empty Title of a Prince of the Empire;
+which he still retains, tho’ he has no Vote nor Session at the Diet. Since
+1712, that I came for the first Time into _France_, the Church of
+_Cambray_ has had four Archbishops. I then found the See possessed by the
+Illustrious _Francis de Salignac de la Mothe Fenelon_, Preceptor of the
+late Duke of _Burgundy_, Father of _Lewis_ XV. He had for his Successor
+_John d’Estrées_; but the latter died before he had taken Possession of
+the Archbishoprick. The celebrated Cardinal _Dubois_ succeeded to him; but
+he did not enjoy that Dignity long, for he died at _Versailles_ the 10th
+of _August_ 1723. The Abbé _de S. Albin_, the natural Son of the Duke of
+_Orleans_, the Regent, was appointed Archbishop of _Cambray_ at an Age
+when he had need of Dispensations from _Rome_, to qualify himself for that
+Dignity.
+
+I think ’twill not be impertinent to make some little mention of the
+Cardinal _Dubois_, and, perhaps, you will not be sorry to hear a few
+Particulars of him. In the first Place, these were his Titles; William
+_Cardinal_ Dubois, _Priest Archbishop and Duke of_ Cambray, _Prince of
+the Holy Empire, Count of the_ Cambresis, _Abbat of_ St. Just de Nogent
+_under_ Couffy, _of_ Bourgueil, Airvaux, Cercamps, St. Winoxberg, _and_
+St. Bertin _of_ St. Omer; _Principal and Prime Minister, and Secretary of
+State for Foreign Affairs_; _Great Master and Superintendant General of
+the Couriers, Posts and Relays of_ France; _one of the forty Members of
+the_ French _Academy and that of the Belles Lettres_: _And chose by the
+Prelates and other Deputies at the General Assembly of the Clergy of_
+France, _to be their first President_.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ was not of extraordinary Extraction, but was born
+with great Talents, and an uncommon Genius. He was Preceptor to the Duke
+of _Orleans_, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; which was the Reason that
+the Prince and he were so well acquainted with each other’s Thoughts, that
+the least Sign given by the One, was understood by the other. The Abbat
+_Dubois_ was employed in the Negociations of Peace in _England_, and at
+_Utrecht_. When the Duke of _Orleans_ came to be Regent, he sent him to
+take care of the King’s Interests at the Court of King _George_ I. of
+_Great Britain_; with whom he concluded the famous Treaty of the Quadruple
+Alliance. When the King came of Age, the Regent being desirous to have a
+first Minister that he could confide in, chose the Abbat _Dubois_, whom he
+first made an Archbishop, and then obtain’d a Cardinal’s Hat for him. ’Tis
+said, that the Cardinal was beginning to forget his Obligations to his
+Benefactor, and thinking to shake off all Submission to him, when he died
+at _Versailles_, after having enjoyed his splendid Fortune but a few
+Years. His Illness was of no long Continuance, but very painful. _La
+Peyrome_, the King’s chief Surgeon, made an Operation upon him for a
+Disorder which the Cardinal’s Enemies ascribe to his Incontinence, before
+he was Archbishop. He dreaded the Operation very much, and was loth to
+undergo it, tho’ the Surgeons assured him, that nothing else could save
+his Life. The Duke of _Orleans_, to whom the Minister’s Life was dear,
+made use of his Authority, and obliged the Cardinal to submit to the
+Operation, which did not answer his Royal Highness’s Hopes; for in a few
+Days after it, his Favourite died. The Eagerness with which the Duke of
+_Orleans_ seized the Ministry, confirmed the Public in their Opinion, that
+the Cardinal had entertained a Thought of asserting his own Independency.
+
+The Cardinal was not much lamented; for he was blunt, violent and
+outrageous; which was not the Way to acquire the Good-will of a Nation,
+which loves that Decency and Politeness should be kept up in every Thing.
+Satire, or, if you please, Calumny, gave it out, that the Cardinal was
+married at _Tours_, when he was made Archbishop, and that his Wife liv’d
+in that City; that he gave it in Charge to M. _de Breteuil_, the Intendant
+of _Tours_, to prevail upon her, if possible, not to discover that she was
+his Wife; but that she refused to relinquish the Advantage; that thereupon
+M. _de Breteuil_ sent for the Parish Register where the Marriage was
+solemnized, and tore out the Leaf in which their Names were entered; and
+that the Woman was going to make a great Noise, but was threatened with
+Confinement, and by that Means obliged to be silent.
+
+I will not engage for the Truth of all, or any Part of this Story; but
+’tis what the scandalous Chronicle has given out, and what has reach’d
+even to _Rome_; so that when it was told to the late Pope, with a great
+many other Passages concerning the Cardinal, he was heartily vexed, that
+he had advanced him to the Purple; and I have been assured, that it was
+such a Grief to the Holy Father, that it help’d to shorten his Days.
+
+The Duchess _de F----_ was with the Cardinal one Day, when being in one of
+his sullen Moods, his Eminency, in plain Terms, bade her _go and pick
+Violets_. The Lady complaining of him to the Duke of _Orleans_, the
+Regent, the Prince made Answer, _You are much in the right_, Madame; _the
+Cardinal_ Dubois _is a Brute, but, nevertheless, he has a good
+Head-piece_.
+
+This Cardinal made a Compliment of much the same Nature to the Cardinal
+_de Noailles_, who telling him one Day as he came from an Audience of the
+Duke of _Orleans_, That the said Prince would not give Ear to his
+Representations, but bade him _go and ---- himself_, you understand the
+rest; the Cardinal _Dubois_ made Answer, _And really, Brother, the best
+Thing your Eminency can do, is to obey_.
+
+These Stories put me in mind of another that was current all over _Paris_,
+a little after the Cardinal _Dubois_ was advanced to the Purple. The
+Lacqueys of these two Cardinals happening to be at a certain Place
+together, they had a Dispute about their Master’s Pre-eminency. _Our
+Master_, said the one, _is the oldest Cardinal, Duke and Peer, and a
+Commander of the Kings Orders_. The others said, _Ours is a Prince of the
+Empire, Duke of_ Cambray, _and Prime Minister_. _Ours_, replied the
+former, _consecrates Bishops; therefore, to be sure, he has the Preference
+above the Cardinal_ Dubois---- _A very pretty Argument this!_ said one of
+_Dubois’s_ Lacqueys, _Why, if there’s any thing in Consecration, my Master
+is the greater Lord, in that respect too: For yours may consecrate
+Bishops, but mine consecrates G-d every Day of his Life._ And, indeed; if
+the Fellow meant his Master’s Swearing by all that’s Sacred, he was not
+in the wrong; for the Cardinal had a very bad Habit of Swearing, like any
+Grenadier.
+
+The Cardinal left no great Estate behind him; and whether it was owing to
+his Disinterestedness, or to his want of Time to amass Wealth, his Fortune
+being but of a short Duration, his Heirs had not much Reason to rejoice at
+his Death. The Duke of _Orleans_ soon forgot him, and nothing preserved
+his Memory so long in _France_ itself, but certain Satires and Epitaphs
+made upon him by the Wits; which might have been transmitted, perhaps, to
+Posterity, if there had not been too much Gall in them. The Cardinal
+_Dubois_ lies interr’d in the Church of _St. Honore_, where his Brother
+was a Canon. This Clergyman set up a Marble Tomb for him, where the
+Cardinal is represented on his Knees, inclin’d towards the Altar of the
+Choir, but his Head seems to turn from it; upon which the Critics remark,
+that he durst not, since his Death, look towards what he had profan’d in
+his Life.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ obtained in Favour of _Cambray_, that the Congress
+should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor
+and _Spain_. The _French_ made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how
+much it was to the Honour of the Duke of _Orleans_, that all the Powers of
+_Europe_ should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his
+Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of
+_Soissons_. _They are come_, said the Court-Flatterers, _into our own
+Country, to desire Peace of us_. They were not so modest as the Allies
+were heretofore; for when _Lewis_ XIV. sent his Ambassadors to _Aix la
+Chapelle_, _Nimeguen_, _Ryswic_, _Gertruydenberg_, _Utrecht_, _Rastadt_,
+&c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the
+_French_ always said, _That they gave Peace to Europe_. Be this as it
+will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses
+that were held in their Country; which tho’ both were opened with a World
+of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of _Vienna_, concluded
+the 19th of _April 1725_. O. S. put a Period to the _Cambray_ Congress;
+the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to
+nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the
+maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron _de Ripperda_,
+afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of _Spain_, and also Prime Minister
+to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so
+tir’d with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of _Cambray_, that he went to
+_Vienna_, with the Name of the Baron _de Puffenberg_, and established so
+strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was
+never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House
+of _Austria_ possessed the Throne of _Spain_. This very much eclipsed the
+Glory of the Congress of _Cambray_, and the Congress of _Soissons_
+received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of _Seville_.
+
+From _Cambray_, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in _French
+Flanders_, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The
+Governor of it is the Prince _de Tingry_, who is the Son of the famous
+Duke _de Luxembourg_, the Marshal of _France_; whose Honour our Writers
+have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence
+with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means.
+The Prince _de Tingry_ distinguished himself very much during the last
+War, by the Name of the Chevalier _de Luxembourg_. He contributed a great
+deal to the Support of _Lisle_ when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy
+of Powder into it in the Night-time. He is look’d upon by all the
+Officers, as one of the chief Generals in _France_. Considering his Birth,
+Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the
+Marshal’s Staff a long time ago; and ’twas thought he would have been
+included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out[81]. He is
+now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his
+Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours
+to myself.
+
+Mons, the Capital City of _Hainault_, is not so large a City as
+_Valenciennes_, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a
+_French_ Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke
+_d’Aremberg_ is Governor both of this City, and of _Hainault_, of which he
+is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at _Brussels_, and never comes
+into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This
+Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and
+Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of _Hainault_, and of the City of
+_Mons_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the
+Halbardiers of the Emperor’s Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he
+received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King _Charles_
+II. after his Father had been killed in _Hungary_. He is the only Nobleman
+in all the _Netherlands_, that has recognized the House of _Austria_
+alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late
+Marquis _de Grana_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, prevented him from
+engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the Advantages that
+were offered to her on the Part of _Philip_ V. After the _Netherlands_
+were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of
+_Ramillies_, the Duchess _d’Aremberg_ and her Son were the first to
+acknowledge King _Charles_ III. The Son had a _Flemish_ Regiment in that
+Prince’s Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under
+my Lord _Marlborough_. ’Twas under him and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his
+Valour, but particularly at the Battle of _Belgrade_. ’Tis certain, that
+if the Duke had stay’d longer at _Vienna_, he would have had some
+important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for
+a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders
+a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_
+lov’d and esteem’d him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to
+improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of
+_Brussels_, to the Tumult of the Court of _Vienna_.
+
+I don’t mention the Battle of _Malplaquet_, which was fought in the
+Neighbourhood of _Mons_; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure,
+have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of
+upon other Occasions.
+
+From _Mons_ to _Brussels_, there’s a famous Causey. We pass thro’ _Halle_,
+whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and
+has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the
+House of _Austria_ have made great Presents.
+
+The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is
+the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally
+old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house,
+there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience
+of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and
+down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called
+the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care
+taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter’d with Dirt, or
+choak’d with Dust.
+
+The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious
+Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look
+like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not.
+The Archduchess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of
+_Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Nassau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder
+of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness
+prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more
+spacious and commodious, tho’ ’twas offered her by the Duke _d’Aremberg_,
+who is the Proprietor of it.
+
+This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which
+was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were
+preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give
+the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the
+Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it
+without any Noise, but it mastered them. ’Twas four Hours, however, before
+it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the
+Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had
+been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion,
+and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such
+Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the
+Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the
+whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle;
+for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when
+she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant,
+her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a
+Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment
+that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog,
+and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in
+her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to
+retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempré_, her Master of the Horse,
+whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed
+to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so
+much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which
+they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for
+_Rubempré’s_ House was so near her own, that ’twas fear’d the Fire would
+have reach’d it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of
+_Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of
+her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempré_ furnished
+her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with Shifts and other
+Apparel; and ’twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended
+from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the
+Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the
+Plate.
+
+Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary
+Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually
+encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily
+grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d’Uhlefeldt_, Lady of
+the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This
+unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by
+the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was
+snatch’d as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched
+from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the
+Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy
+the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her
+Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The
+whole Court was charm’d, to see with what Resignation she bore her
+Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God
+had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness
+honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be
+performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at
+which all the Nobility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry
+for the Loss of her.
+
+In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess’s
+Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a
+Gold Toilet, were missing.
+
+The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor’s three Sisters. She is
+jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and
+majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but
+with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into
+the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro’ _Louvain_, she returned an Answer
+in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that
+Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine
+Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of
+Virtue and Piety. ’Tis impossible for any one living to be more
+charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the
+Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour
+at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a
+Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she
+bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her
+most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that ’tis no manner of
+Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.
+
+The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at
+_Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies
+wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her,
+and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least
+Disgust with any of her Domestics.
+
+Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a
+_Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity
+and Sincerity, impossible to be byass’d by any thing but Justice, a good
+Œconomist, and always disinterested. Tho’ the People of this Country are
+not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they all
+agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is
+pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of
+Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to
+every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by
+Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He
+is good-natur’d, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an
+extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is
+universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt
+as his Master.
+
+M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be
+relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person
+of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a
+Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho’ he
+had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the
+Emperor’s Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to
+him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor’s
+Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent
+Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first
+Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in
+order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess.
+I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is
+affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves
+Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his
+Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please
+the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out
+a great deal of Money with ’em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of
+_Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince
+expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from
+_Bavaria_. _The Archduchess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing,
+and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this
+Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred
+thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their
+Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her
+most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well,
+and keeps out of every body’s Debt; which is what can’t be said of any
+Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from
+these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make
+Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to
+every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few
+that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master
+would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of
+_Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight
+or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one
+that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now
+Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding
+the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the
+advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.
+
+The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the
+World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing.
+The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege
+of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg’d that Liberty,
+but ’twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as
+they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with
+the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _’Twas
+very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Brussels.
+
+The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose
+Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of
+being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but
+they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged,
+that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this
+Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not
+Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to
+the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as
+well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim’d the
+Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually
+presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better
+instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and
+told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to
+come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and
+for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at
+Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were
+apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now
+do as they ought.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are
+some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many,
+who, tho’ they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to
+prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they
+were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_,
+_Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important
+Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve,
+it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the
+Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _’tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the
+Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so
+unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don’t mention it
+to us. There’s not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all,
+have Reason on their Side: For many of ’em, tho’ they have never served
+the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to
+Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the
+_Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to
+blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to
+receive their Reward.
+
+It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho’ few of the _Flemings_, under
+whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_,
+go to _Vienna_, ’tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The
+Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they
+live therefore with very great Œconomy, like private People. They seldom
+make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of ’em keeps an open Table. Yet
+there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_
+itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_,
+formerly assumed only the Title of _Excellency_; but since they have been
+under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and
+_Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the Title of _Highnesses_, which is
+given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it
+with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d’Aremberg_ is the only
+Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho’ he is the
+Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.
+
+_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of
+_la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the
+_Netherlands_. When this Nobleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very
+great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality,
+and ’tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a
+Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and
+gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons
+of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a
+Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but ’tis attended with Envy. The
+Prince _de la Tour_, tho’ not a Sovereign, is nobly ally’d. His Mother was
+a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a
+Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince
+_Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or
+Nobility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong.
+I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho’ those of _la
+Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity
+of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so
+long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can’t help thinking,
+that a Family, which has been ally’d for many Generations with the
+greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the
+Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank’d among our best Families in _Germany_.
+
+Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the
+Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very
+natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it
+were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted
+are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_
+discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that ’tis not surprising
+that she should honour her with her Confidence.
+
+I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not
+very gay, and I’ll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull
+Taste. There’s a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is
+horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so
+when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady,
+there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time
+of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing
+falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace,
+Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very
+great Perfection. _Lenir_’s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest
+for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with
+it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince
+_Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor
+_Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_,
+_France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine
+Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the _Israelites_
+worshipping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law.
+The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has
+made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent
+the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the
+Town-house, and worth seeing.
+
+Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor’s Troops
+in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised
+by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is
+descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes
+the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has
+gone thro’ all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great
+Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners
+very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary
+Expence.
+
+The Governor of _Brussels_ is the Marshal _de Wrangel_, a venerable old
+Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has
+gone thro’ all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very
+rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good
+Table.
+
+The Prince _de Rubempré_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most
+distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the
+Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman,
+and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_.
+
+The Prince of _Nassau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness’s Band of
+Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger
+Brother of the Prince of _Nassau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of
+_William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, assumed the Title of Prince of
+_Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to
+the King. The Prince of _Nassau_, of whom I here make mention, was also
+formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis
+_de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the
+Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but
+his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he
+holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the
+Golden Fleece.
+
+I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so
+well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are
+continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to
+you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial
+Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have
+the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Liege, June 28, 1732._
+
+From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of
+_Flanders_, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_.
+The _Scheld_ passes thro’ the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided
+into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Canals. ’Tis very
+large in Circumference, insomuch, that ’tis reported, the Emperor
+_Charles_ V. us’d to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86].
+This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained
+in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is
+decay’d, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The
+Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most
+notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were
+severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their
+Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed
+through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused
+twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a
+greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away
+their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a
+Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a
+Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of
+its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
+
+The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp,
+broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it
+very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place:
+Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say,
+that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep
+_Ghent_ than _Brussels_.
+
+I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have
+been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some
+of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron
+_de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a
+Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de
+Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess,
+Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and
+is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amusements there are in this Town, I
+cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no
+Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
+
+I went in the Bark along the Canal from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the
+most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a
+good Room, and with Company very happily mix’d. At Noon we had a Dinner
+served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_;
+where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. ’Tis a Rule in this Bark, for
+the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts
+pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of
+Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of
+the Juice of the Grape.
+
+BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues
+from the Sea, upon the Canal of _Reye_; which being divided into several
+navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes
+to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to _Bruges_
+of four hundred Tons. ’Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho’ ’tis
+considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at
+_Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one
+of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent
+Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and
+open, with several large Squares, and there’s no want of Inhabitants; but
+they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. ’Tis a hard matter for
+a Foreigner to get acquainted with ’em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally
+unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a
+_German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of
+_Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of
+being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at
+_Brussels_. And, as I don’t care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately
+to OSTEND.
+
+This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three
+Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company
+established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_,
+however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for
+Pleasures. ’Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable
+that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very
+strong: ’Tis encompass’d with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks,
+and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due
+Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have
+been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every
+Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and
+_England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the
+_Netherlands_.
+
+NEWPORT, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_.
+’Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify’d, and can lay the Country
+under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a
+Degree, that there’s never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one
+time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid
+unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the
+Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to
+do with their Time.
+
+As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one
+of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all
+_Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in
+Holland, and damask’d Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its
+Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a
+Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.
+_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals. The
+second is M. _Dickson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel’s Commission, and
+is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he
+is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons
+of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to
+Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one
+another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house,
+where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I
+dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly,
+as to squeeze the Breath out of one another’s Bodies.
+
+I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns
+belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Nassau
+Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the
+_Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this
+Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier
+Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor,
+and also to the States General his Masters. But I can’t imagine how he
+would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
+should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may
+be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the
+_Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring
+her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the
+most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they
+were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that
+the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill
+defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there
+was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it
+to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the
+Breach, was answered, That ’twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless
+he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the
+Gate. There’s no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and
+some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.
+
+LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a
+City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. ’Tis a large,
+fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav’d. It
+has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which
+discover its Riches. There’s a new Town-house building here, in a bad
+Situation; but when finish’d, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de
+Bousslers_, whose Father acquir’d great Glory by his vigorous Defence of
+_Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine
+handsome young Nobleman, tho’ of an under Size. He applies very much to
+the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in
+that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body
+speak well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I
+found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and
+amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too
+liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all
+her young Noblemen were like to him.
+
+There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de
+Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late
+Duchess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the
+Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there’s abundance
+of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than
+ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another
+upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In
+Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living
+here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.
+
+You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies
+retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the
+Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the
+King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of
+_Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Cassel_, puts one in
+Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_
+and its Chatellany to the Emperor.
+
+Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there’s a Concourse to it
+from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the
+Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and
+embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
+delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call’d me back to _Germany_, I
+should have stay’d here some time longer.
+
+I return’d again thro’ _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_,
+surnam’d the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low
+Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _Noble_, _Ghent_
+the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the
+_Strong_; and so of the rest.
+
+ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_,
+stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our
+Lady’s Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is
+worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which ’tis adorned. The
+Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller’s Attention.
+This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening
+in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in
+Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their
+Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent
+Chapels, are still to be seen.
+
+The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of
+_Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil
+Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.
+
+_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. ’Twas formerly a City
+of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its
+Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is
+incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came
+to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak’d up by
+Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
+_Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_.
+Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely
+rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac’d and
+embroider’d Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to
+the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at
+_Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There’s a charming
+Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend
+there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that
+is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together,
+you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.
+
+The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals, is Governor of
+_Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his
+House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he
+appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_,
+when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of
+Cardinal _Alberoni_.
+
+This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of _Antwerp_; from whence I
+went to MECHLIN, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth
+seeing. The Cardinal _de Bossu_, Brother of the Prince _de Chimay_, is its
+Archbishop, and the only one in the _Netherlands_, belonging to the House
+of _Austria_. You know, that at _Mechlin_ is held the Sovereign Council or
+Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and
+Solicitors here, and hears so many of the Quirks of the Law. There are
+few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.
+
+The Causey between _Mechlin_ and _Louvain_ is a new Piece of Work. Before
+this was cast up, the People of _Mechlin_ were obliged, in the
+Winter-time, to go thro’ _Brussels_, in order to avoid the bad Roads,
+which was a great Way about.
+
+LOUVAIN is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students,
+Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I
+only pass’d quite thro’ the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and
+I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are
+the most unpolish’d of all the _Netherlands_. One of the grand Privileges
+of the University of _Louvain_, is a Nomination to a great Number of
+Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of
+the _Netherlands_, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence,
+that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments
+they have no Knowledge. Mr. _Strickland_, by Birth an _Englishman_, and
+Bishop of _Namur_, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair
+determined at _Rome_. But I’ll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more
+than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.
+
+There’s a very good Pavement from _Louvain_ to _Tirlemont_, which is a
+Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so
+that I brush’d thro’ it, and went and lay at MAESTRICHT, one of the best
+and strongest Places in _Europe_, belonging to the _Dutch_; to whom
+_Spain_ abandoned it by the Peace of _Munster_. The _French_ Army took it
+in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The _Dutch_
+Propriety in it was recogniz’d by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and they
+maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince _William_
+of _Hesse Cassel_, Brother to the King of _Sweden_; but since the Death of
+the Landgrave of _Hesse_, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the
+said Landgraviate, resides no longer at _Maestricht_; which is a Loss to
+this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv’d with all the Dignity
+answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during
+his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] _d’Amerongen_.
+
+The Walks about _Maestricht_, especially those on the Ramparts, are
+charming; for there’s no want of good Company, and ’tis the genteelest of
+all the Garisons that belong to the _Dutch_. ’Tis a very pretty Town, with
+beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well
+as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is
+remarkable in all the Towns of _Holland_. The _Maese_ passes thro’ this
+Town, and over it there’s a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured
+for a Truth, the late Marshal _d’Auverquerque_, when a young Man, leaped
+his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle _de Feldtbruck_, how
+sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and
+Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked
+upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did
+not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the
+Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to
+keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade
+with him to the Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he
+reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his
+Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
+
+I stay’d a few Days at _Maestricht_, which City put me in Mind of my
+Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector _Frederic_ of
+_Brandenbourg_. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new
+Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion
+wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for
+him.
+
+The City of LIEGE is about five Leagues from _Maestricht_. A Vessel goes
+thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so
+rapid as the _Maese_, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is
+what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
+
+The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that _Liege_ was built by
+that _Ambiorix_ King of the _Eburons_, a great Enemy of the _Romans_ who
+cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of _Cæsar’s_
+Lieutenants; for which Affront, _Cæsar_ afterwards took a sweet Revenge.
+But be this as it will, ’tis certain that _Liege_ is a very ancient City.
+’Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley,
+encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro’
+which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the _Maese_, which passes
+thro’ the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. _Lambert_, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of
+Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are
+included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or
+_Tressonciers_, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the
+Doctor’s Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will,
+comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of _Germany_.
+
+The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of _Liege_ is ancient. It has large
+Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not
+airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of
+_Berg_. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector
+of _Cologne_, and the Cardinal of _Saxe Zeits_; but he had the good Luck
+to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased
+with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs
+with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of
+very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his
+Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always
+distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a
+_Capuchin_ to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father
+was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to
+their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This _Capuchin_ Minister died without
+being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince’s Domestics. He is
+succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another _Capuchin_; but his
+Authority is more limited.
+
+The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at
+_Serai_, a Country House a small League from _Liege_, on the Banks of the
+_Maese_, towards _Huy_, where he has seldom any body with him but his
+Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber.
+His Table is not so sumptuous as ’tis elegant; his Liveries are very
+modest, his Guards but few, and cloath’d exactly alike. He has rais’d a
+Regiment of Guards, of which the Count _de Beaufort_, Brother to the
+Governor of _Charleroy_, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the
+old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has
+been intirely ruin’d and demolish’d, since it was besieg’d and taken by my
+Lord _Marlborough_. ’Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the
+Citadel of _Liege_ shall not be rebuilt.
+
+You know, that the Episcopal See of _Liege_ was formerly at _Tongres_; of
+which, they say, that _Maternus_, sent by St. _Peter_, was the first
+Bishop. The See was transferr’d by his Successors, first to _Maestricht_,
+and then to _Liege_.
+
+There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love
+Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and
+have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. _Paul’s_
+Church here would be admir’d, even in _Rome_ itself. Divine Service is
+perform’d in it with very great Regularity; and ’tis impossible not to be
+edify’d by it, the _Roman_ Ritual being observed in every Particular.
+
+The Pleasures of _Liege_ consist very much in Drinking, for there’s little
+Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the
+Tavern, where there are good _Bar_ and _Burgundy_ Wines, and a sort of
+Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of _Liege_
+go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great
+Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies
+commonly end like the _Italian_ Comedies. The _Liegeois_ are accused of
+being insincere, and are called, _the_ Italians _of the_ Netherlands. They
+drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are
+Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive, that they think any sort of
+Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that
+the Country of _Liege_ alone furnishes the Chamber of _Wetzlar_ with more
+Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever
+conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none,
+whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho’ I shall ever esteem the
+honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter
+not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the _Liegeois_,
+who appeared to me such as I have describ’d them; and if I wrong them, I
+ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases,
+and for my own part, I shall be overjoy’d to hear of any Merit found among
+them.
+
+The Country of _Liege_ is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except
+Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron
+and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth
+proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable,
+because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the _English_
+Coal, and renders _Liege_, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as
+_London_.
+
+The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who
+are not always of the Prince’s Opinion. In this Country are reckon’d fifty
+Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall’d Towns, and near
+fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.
+
+I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at _Spa_, where I
+hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._
+
+The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place
+itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are
+not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil
+myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which
+they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are
+several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all
+Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of
+_Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every
+Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the
+human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which
+must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a
+little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the
+Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring
+is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which
+Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name.
+The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own
+Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely,
+that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks
+successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even
+go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied
+himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He
+would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He
+complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look’d very well, eat
+heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I
+thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner.
+I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from
+the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy’d to renew my Acquaintance there with
+Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho’ I am
+extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I
+cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and
+more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.
+
+In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the
+Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital
+in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one
+of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it
+was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred
+Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has
+a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants
+are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal
+of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great
+Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many
+Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of
+_England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four
+Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks
+and Mountains.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to
+_Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say,
+that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by
+the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_
+caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_,
+Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors
+crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given
+an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church
+of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be
+of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.
+
+The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That
+during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross
+over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice
+which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given
+them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of
+_Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_’s Confessor. When the Electors were going to
+take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre
+which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who
+did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the
+Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_’s
+Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all
+the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the
+Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the
+Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the
+Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to
+tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this
+Transaction, tho’ white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to
+the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond
+Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my
+Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his
+pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but
+it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he
+met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a
+Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the
+Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest
+upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the
+Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_,
+Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal
+of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be
+chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest
+Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed
+_Rodolph_’s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_,
+that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it;
+_Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the
+_Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_
+Line.
+
+The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_
+III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops
+attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt,
+a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a
+Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give
+as much, or as little Credit as you please. ’Tis, that God, in order fully
+to answer _Charlemagne_’s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of
+Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St.
+_Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time,
+and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear
+visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope’s
+Blessing; after which they vanish’d. But I think, without pretending to
+dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they
+ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than
+the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to
+doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I
+saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in
+the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise,
+and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb
+there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to
+the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_.
+
+_Excitus bâc arcá_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se
+reddit uterque Hierarcha._
+
+After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must
+be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to
+give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady’s
+Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great
+Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from
+all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only
+exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the
+Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having
+been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of ’em return Home, without being
+able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is
+the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord.
+Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the
+People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form
+of one of those Proclamations.
+
+                         At the first RELIQUE.
+
+    We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the
+    Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the
+    Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus
+    Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God,
+    that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that
+    the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we
+    may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
+
+The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.
+
+In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of
+Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider’d with Pearls, and other
+sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which
+_Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. ’Tis
+of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold;
+but what’s become of ’em, I know not. ’Tis in this Chair that the King of
+the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here
+the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first
+Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and
+the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a
+great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given
+by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that
+Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church’s
+Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.
+
+The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which
+was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired;
+so that ’tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new
+Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome
+Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and
+there’s very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season;
+but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess
+_de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The
+last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been
+a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of
+_Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation.
+He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.
+
+Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there’s none of more
+agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being
+perfectly good. There’s the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where
+the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their
+Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well
+furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season,
+hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.
+
+From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro’ a
+very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one
+ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro’ JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy
+of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to
+overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius Cæsar_
+caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to
+_Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either.
+There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I
+thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or
+Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, ’tis to be hoped, is in a better
+State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the
+General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_.
+The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the
+_Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place;
+and ’tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches
+in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the
+Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, ’tis hardly supposed that the King
+of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just
+Pretensions.
+
+COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_.
+There’s nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be
+seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song.
+The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was
+born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal
+Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its
+Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. ’Twere to
+be wish’d, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it
+into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more
+Houses than Families. For ’tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a
+whole House to himself.
+
+If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number
+of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth;
+for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year.
+The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle
+St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most
+magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does
+no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in
+_Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who
+must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some
+Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than
+the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were
+brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the
+City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as
+the sacred Reliques had pass’d, that nothing might profane it. The
+Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of
+_Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it
+would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a
+Company of the Burghers.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere;
+but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_
+Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the
+old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a
+Kin to the Holy Virgin.
+
+The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City;
+nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice
+here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no
+manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared
+among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses,
+and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are
+very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The
+Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in
+_Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of
+’em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired,
+they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are
+Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and
+drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have
+not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_
+Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.
+
+There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City,
+particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into
+the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day
+before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson’s_[91]
+Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de
+Medicis_ lodg’d, while she liv’d here, and where she died in a Condition
+so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human
+Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap’d
+Riches and Honour, not content with having banish’d her out of the
+Kingdom, abandon’d her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv’d
+in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the
+Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the
+Ministry, retir’d likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of
+_France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat
+it.
+
+I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have
+seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It
+maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the
+Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all
+Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because
+when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged
+to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search’d, and every thing
+turn’d topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of
+putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put
+all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to
+drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you
+shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ
+from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct
+Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of
+the Public.
+
+There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the
+City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_,
+about half a League off.
+
+I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour.
+He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the
+_Teutonic_[92] Order, tho’ the Pope thought he had Benefices enough
+before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time,
+and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him
+in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don’t think there’s any Harm in the
+Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of ’em; which is a Thing that
+cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my
+next, what I think of this Prince’s Court. In the mean time, and always, I
+am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Bonn, July 30, 1732._
+
+As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that
+time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from
+_Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro’ one of the finest Roads in
+the World, well-pav’d and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain,
+encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very
+ancient, that _Florus_ tells us ’twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned
+say, ’tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention’d by _Tacitus_. Be
+this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the
+_Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at
+all, when the Court is not there. ’Twas heretofore very well fortify’d,
+and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it
+at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and
+lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_
+Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary
+manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and
+Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had
+forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as
+were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that
+was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding
+Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the
+Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice
+to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of
+it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well ’twas his Due, but
+that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great
+Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation
+to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all
+Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure
+him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of
+Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to
+continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and,
+perhaps, hurry’d by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector’s
+Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days
+after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.
+
+During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce
+a House was left standing; for the Baron _d’Asfeldt_, who commanded in the
+Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a
+Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.
+
+This City was again besieg’d in 1703, by my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_,
+who obliged the Marquis[93] _d’Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to
+capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector
+_Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn
+them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own
+Territories.
+
+This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a
+sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy’d in the last Siege, were not
+yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair
+of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old
+Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and
+built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of
+the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to
+Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish’d, has spacious
+Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn’d, and nobly furnish’d. The
+Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth
+seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord’s
+Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon’d
+the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_,
+caused them to be made.
+
+The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded
+by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of
+the Holy Martyrs _Cassius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_
+Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the
+Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the
+Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so
+very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church
+of _Rome_.
+
+Tho’ the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet
+he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three
+Leagues out of Town; which, tho’ not very large, has very fine Apartments,
+adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The
+Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine
+when finish’d.
+
+The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a
+League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built
+in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the
+present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ
+the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there’s a
+Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.
+
+All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are
+moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here,
+than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is
+decaying.
+
+After having walk’d about here a great deal, expecting the Elector’s
+Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_
+his Brother. He was welcom’d with the Discharge of the Cannon, and
+complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return,
+and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the _Teutonic_ Order.
+Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress’d in a Lay
+Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the
+Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of
+the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as
+Grand Master of a Military Order.
+
+His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called _Clement Augustus_;
+for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves
+Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit
+of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an
+Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly
+descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes
+his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards,
+with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native
+of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General
+in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke
+_Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who
+was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now
+the Elector’s Prime Minister, who was then purely attach’d to that Prince,
+from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke
+_Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those
+two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop.
+This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope’s own Hand, at _Rome_; and
+afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after
+this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be
+appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement
+Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of _Hildesheim_.
+After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of
+_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for
+Successor to that Prince’s Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand
+Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights,
+who have Commanderies in that Order.
+
+The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of
+such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they,
+_one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the
+like in all our Annals; ’tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I
+am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so
+or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and
+even more Benefices; and that ’tis for the Welfare and Interest of the
+Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal
+of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and
+_Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it
+was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the
+Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho’ not a
+Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry
+against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector
+should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to
+the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_.
+
+Tho’ I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the
+Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the
+contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several
+Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by
+the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them,
+separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the
+Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being
+united under one Head, they are a formidable State.
+
+_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_
+Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they
+don’t consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of
+_Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would
+never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But
+admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic,
+what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and
+particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang’d since his Death. The
+Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters
+of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the
+best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics,
+on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions
+impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.
+Therefore, I say it again, ’tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the
+Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute
+their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church
+with an able Protector.
+
+Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious
+Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both
+Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de
+Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish’d Rank for
+a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of
+_Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and
+M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been
+promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy
+Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the
+Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the
+Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_
+is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be
+ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor’s
+Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the
+Elector of _Cologne_’s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime
+Minister.
+
+Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the
+Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. ’Twas this
+Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose,
+first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of
+_Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being
+elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his
+Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps,
+have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he
+apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step:
+But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and
+by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the
+Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services,
+performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject,
+could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the
+Elector’s intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The
+Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His
+Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He
+has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in
+their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the
+First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce
+presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour
+itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which
+only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears
+attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without
+affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent,
+vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o’Clock
+every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a
+magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there
+is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have
+Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to
+the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the
+Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and
+Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he
+is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His
+Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of
+excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of
+his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_,
+where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the
+Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens
+to it, which will not easily be match’d in _Germany_. This Minister has an
+only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is
+already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and
+Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count
+_de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to
+follow, and his Example to imitate.
+
+There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The
+Baron _de Nothasst_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the
+Elector’s Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The
+Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the
+Elector’s Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to
+Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in
+the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_.
+His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy
+Father’s Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_
+Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which
+Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of
+several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his
+Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography,
+and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the
+State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the
+Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to
+the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God,
+whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into
+Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a
+Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest’s Orders. He said his first
+Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of
+_Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year
+ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the
+Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every
+body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that ’twere to be wished
+all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to
+God, and the World.
+
+The Elector’s Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two
+Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Nothasst_ is Commander
+in chief of those Troops, which, tho’ but a Handful, are sufficient for
+the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified
+heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.
+
+In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_
+governs with the Title of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral
+Palace, and is served by the Elector’s Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_
+is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies
+at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the
+Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure.
+In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._
+
+I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the
+disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not
+fatigu’d, but then I was pretty much chagrin’d. I landed at LINTZ, a
+little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the
+_Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is
+made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The
+_Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great
+Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for
+_Burgundy_. After I had fill’d my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and
+arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the
+Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for
+_Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of
+the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank
+with Wine.
+
+A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there’s an
+abandon’d Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his
+Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is
+haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met
+with, more or less, in all Countries.
+
+The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where
+the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too,
+are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de
+Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_’s Governor. She is a Lady highly to
+be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.
+
+The _Rhine_, which runs thro’ none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to
+_Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give
+me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are
+cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly
+take one’s Eyes off of them, there’s such a variegated Prospect of
+Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen’s Seats, and Cottages.
+
+The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_,
+at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley
+surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and
+Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to
+them ’tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several
+Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_,
+the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d’Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very
+rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look
+upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a
+Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is
+to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de
+Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a
+lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.
+
+The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of
+_Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it
+impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is
+situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by
+itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of
+Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which,
+they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to
+be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of
+_Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much
+pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes
+but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very
+much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_,
+where live most of the Elector’s Domestics. This Quarter has a
+Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.
+
+The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_,
+who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the
+Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and
+Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of
+_Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of
+_Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect:
+He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a
+very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his
+Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his
+Houshold not large.
+
+From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle
+of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_.
+The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and
+claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family
+of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the
+Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and
+the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn’d out. A
+Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the
+_Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the
+_Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.
+
+As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is
+given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is
+reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there’s
+no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine;
+which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the
+Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the
+midst of the _Rhine_, there’s the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to
+Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him
+from the Rats, which gnaw’d him as a Punishment for his having burnt a
+considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth
+of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous
+Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames,
+ask’d his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable
+soever this Story may seem, ’tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it
+were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I
+questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of
+it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that
+this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a
+Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in
+which ’tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire
+to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw’d by the Rats.
+
+The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_. ’Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and ’tis thought
+to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion
+of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of
+_Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to
+celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in
+request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but
+wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine
+that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth
+nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of
+_Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the
+Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good,
+and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.
+
+From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of
+the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_, over which there’s a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in
+the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five
+hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City,
+in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of
+_Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as
+it will, ’tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in
+the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a
+Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a
+greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and
+Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that
+eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose
+unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the
+Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in
+the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the
+late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic
+Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the
+whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince’s Candour,
+and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_,
+whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was
+also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long
+time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish’d
+it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it
+may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had
+begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d’Uxelles_, who then
+commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to
+sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of
+_Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works,
+cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others
+of Stone erected in their stead.
+
+The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some
+fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_,
+_Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but ’tis pity they are not in a better
+Situation.
+
+The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing
+remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember
+to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time
+there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned
+with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were
+engraved;
+
+             _Auri sexcentas habet hæc crux aurea libras._
+
+Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure
+you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely
+of Persons of Quality, but they don’t admit Princes to it.
+
+The Elector’s Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was
+answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are
+commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.
+
+That which most deserves a Traveller’s View in this City, is the
+_Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its
+Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very
+neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The
+Joiner’s Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which
+represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric
+fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a
+Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a
+perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of
+which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but
+neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they
+devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or
+employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and
+industrious Occupations.
+
+It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they
+always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women,
+and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as
+that tho’ they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it
+any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.
+
+At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill,
+is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector.
+_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the
+Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call’d a
+Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole
+are heap’d, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little
+Fancy. There’s a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach’d from it,
+disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there’s a Prospect of
+the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the
+other Side of those Rivers.
+
+For the rest, ’tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject
+to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there’s a great Number of
+Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.
+The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of
+the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is
+to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the
+Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while
+these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the
+neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.
+
+I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. ’Tis a
+little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to
+the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very
+much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I
+am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the
+sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it
+would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the
+Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same
+as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater
+Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without
+Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and
+it’s surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of
+fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which
+really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at
+which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes
+here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.
+
+SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that
+consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of
+_Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they
+use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves,
+and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they
+don’t take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.
+
+This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its
+Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be
+gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as
+I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from
+whence I shall proceed thro’ _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope
+to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._
+
+At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three
+Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I passed over a flying Bridge,
+between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. ’Twas founded
+by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing
+magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it.
+All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such
+as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they
+dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well
+decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect
+of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble
+Scenes to View.
+
+From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a
+fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its
+Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been
+obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a
+small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had
+undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call
+the _New-Town_; but that Prince’s Death, and the Absence of the Court, put
+a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but
+’tis carried on so slowly, that ’twill take up a great deal of Time to
+finish it.
+
+The Elector’s Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but
+a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or
+Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in
+the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of
+Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by
+that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de
+Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince’s having taken him out of
+_Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The
+Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but
+most of ’em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains
+Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with
+the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died
+lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures
+sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave
+him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand
+Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing,
+or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and
+the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more
+beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Passion
+of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector
+_John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of
+_Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector’s Wife, which Princess is
+represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The
+fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces
+by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di
+Cortona_, _Guido_, _Titian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_,
+_Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_,
+_Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious
+in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are
+distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the
+utmost Perfection, copy’d, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed
+upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with
+excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of
+other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery
+truly magnificent.
+
+Under these Rooms there’s another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and
+Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_
+and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector
+_John-William_, with very great Care and Expence.
+
+In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector’s Equestrian
+Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral
+Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not
+answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking
+Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very
+wretched Figure; tho’ ’tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a
+Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine
+Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole
+Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even
+without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of
+_Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the
+World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.
+He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and
+Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his
+Good-nature render’d him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and
+the Darling of his Subjects.
+
+This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes,
+who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._
+_Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_,
+_Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of
+_Hesse Cassel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the
+King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they
+are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of
+their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to
+the latest Posterity.
+
+The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_,
+there’s a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is
+the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on
+it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay
+any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.
+All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular
+Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.
+The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful
+Convent here. There’s a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth
+seeing. ’Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and
+adorned with very fine Paintings. ’Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of
+_John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.
+
+Tho’ the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good
+Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.
+There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de
+Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a
+Court.
+
+I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance,
+which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From
+thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the
+Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but
+indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only
+remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_,
+is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that’s
+good.
+
+After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats,
+I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the
+King of _Prussia_: ’Tis regularly fortify’d, and has a very good Citadel
+towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the
+first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King
+_Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.
+M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those
+Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to
+M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render
+_Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town
+more particularly deserves a Traveller’s Attention, than the _Berlin_
+Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or
+more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is
+extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or
+Ammunition.
+
+In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous
+City, but now very much decay’d. The Catholic Church is a beautiful
+Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which
+the Natives pay great Devotion.
+
+’Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro’ one continued Range
+of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town
+is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King’s Palace is ancient,
+yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.
+There’s nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these
+Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_,
+coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the
+Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he
+wish’d _Versailles_ was as well situate.
+
+_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which
+is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of
+his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil,
+and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.
+
+There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the
+Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very
+handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the
+Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour
+to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never
+was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same
+Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole
+Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to
+remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his
+Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no
+Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don’t
+know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was
+at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came
+hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to
+come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was
+formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had
+Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what
+has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other
+Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well
+acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again
+so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great
+many Facts to tell you, which ’tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.
+I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER L.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                   _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._
+
+Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had
+it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I
+should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I
+thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other
+Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send
+you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what
+others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these
+Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best
+manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.
+
+From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_,
+and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of
+_Prussia_; from which ’tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on
+the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of
+the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or
+_Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the
+Time when the Republic seem’d ready to sink under the Weight of their
+Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify’d; so that ’tis now a
+Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign’d
+here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next
+Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and
+_France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is
+much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there’s a Prospect of a
+great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest
+Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords.
+
+After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or
+five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is
+very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of
+Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or
+the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather,
+because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made,
+that a little Matter turns ’em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the
+Inventor of ’em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the
+most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to
+yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step,
+placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The
+Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread
+over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one’s Head
+against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the
+Entrance of _Proserpine_ into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by
+which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing
+one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his
+Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are
+stow’d in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination,
+makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers.
+
+’Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to
+RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time
+been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector
+_Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to
+be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir
+to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said
+_Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which
+the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in
+his Journies to and from _Hanover_.
+
+The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean
+that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather
+they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by
+consequence, not passable when it has rain’d.
+
+As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are
+several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of
+_Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a
+Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most
+considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count
+of _Nassau_, Son of the late Mons. _d’Odyck_, distinguished in the
+Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his
+Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven
+Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman’s Palace. It has fine
+Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when
+that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The
+Count _de Nassau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more
+agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because
+that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its
+Allies.
+
+The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of
+_Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance
+of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can
+only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed,
+would not want for Magnificence.
+
+The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to
+the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which
+_Lewis_ XIV. so admir’d upon Account of its Walks, that he wish’d he
+could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut
+down the Trees.
+
+UTRECHT, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of
+_Jericho_, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of _Israel_,
+were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did
+not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to
+carry their Keys to the King of _France_, notwithstanding the Offers made
+to them by the Prince of _Orange_, to defend the Place. _Lewis_ XIV.
+entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very
+short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That
+in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground;
+and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to
+place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his
+Majesty came by. If this Circumstance is true, they who possessed the King
+with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the _Dutch_, who, ’tis possible,
+might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a
+Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to
+fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character.
+
+The Streets of _Utrecht_ are spacious and very airy, its Houses pleasant
+and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the
+Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to
+_Charles_ II. King of _Spain_. This City, next to the _Hague_, is the most
+agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here’s a great Number, as well
+as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for
+the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir’d.
+
+The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its
+Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for
+Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies
+of Dragoons. The Court of _Rome_ always nominates the Archbishop, who
+commonly resides at _Amsterdam_. I think the Person who enjoys
+this[101]Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but ’tis probable he has
+no View to a Cardinal’s Cap, he being a declared _Jansenist_. The
+_Carthusians_ who retired from _France_ under the specious Pretext of
+securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese,
+where they live in two separate Convents not very far from _Utrecht_, and
+are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in _France_, about
+the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the
+Protestants, who did not think they differ’d very widely from their
+Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur _Paris_ pass for a
+Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has
+been conceiv’d of ’em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for
+these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who
+increase the Number of ’em. Be this as it will, ’tis allow’d by every
+body, even by the most zealous _Roman_ Catholics, that setting aside their
+Religious Sentiments, there’s no Fault to be found with their Morals and
+Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the
+Convent which they have abandoned.
+
+The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may
+believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it:
+Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are
+neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the
+Ambassadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho’ it was not for want of Money,
+insomuch that several of ’em might have purchased the Houses they lived
+in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the
+Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me
+in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three
+Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of
+the Republic. _Nimeguen_, said they, signified NEIM-WEG (_Take all_),
+_Reiswick_, REIS-WEG (_Pluck up all_), and _Utrecht_, AUSSER RECHT
+(_Witbout Right_). If every Thing be fairly examin’d, all this perhaps may
+be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies.
+
+I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from
+_Utrecht_ to _Amsterdam_, which is not only the most commodious, but the
+best regulated, and the cheapest Passage in _Europe_. One knows to a
+Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets
+into Port. If you agree for the _Rous_ or Cabin, one is alone, or with
+what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to
+_Utrecht_, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came
+out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Canal which
+carried me to _Amsterdam_ presents a thousand agreeable Objects to View,
+being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent
+Gardens, Meadows and Villages.
+
+After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the
+Inhabitants, I am arrived at AMSTERDAM, that modern _Tyre_, the Mistress
+of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest,
+and most wealthy Cities in _Europe_. It contains both sacred and profane
+Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely)
+retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in
+the Buildings of _Venice_ and _Genoa_, which are of a sublimer Taste,
+because the Nobility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be
+truly great and noble at _Amsterdam_, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks,
+and the broad and deep Ditches with which ’tis encompassed.
+
+_Amsterdam_ is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any
+measure to _Venice_. For tho’ ’tis not built as _Venice_ is, in the midst
+of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like _Venice_ it consists
+of a vast Number of Islands, and its principal Streets have Canals, with
+the Adventage of spacious Kays at their Doors, fenc’d with Trees; whereas
+at _Venice_, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be
+all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as
+to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one _Canal
+Grande_, and one _Canal Reggio_, being worth more in this respect than all
+_Amsterdam_. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat,
+genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of
+Brick. Heretofore the _Amsterdammers_ Manner of Building was very
+extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon
+Stilts, which I explain thus: The Front of the first Floor, upon the
+Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars
+that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for
+them, is very slight; for there’s seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in
+Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in
+the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is
+overheard in the second. I don’t criticize the Manner of the Distribution
+of their Rooms; tho’, to be plain, their Architects know no more of this
+Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of
+them smoaky. ’Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded
+by it, and that they might even do without them[102]. For the Women warm
+themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen
+Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor’d in it, which they keep
+under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her
+Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined
+with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick
+Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove
+as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is
+seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and
+I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who
+don’t boil the Pot above once a Week: For there’s no Nation in the World
+that feeds worse than the _Dutch_, and particularly the _Amsterdammers_,
+Butter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet.
+
+But I have deviated from the Article I was upon, touching their Manner of
+Building. I cannot conceive how ’tis possible for Houses that are so
+slight to stand: And there are some that perfectly totter from Side to
+Side; but I had rather see a Woman dance, than a House. A great Number of
+those Houses have lately been set upright. One of those Pinacles, in Form
+of a Sugar-loaf, which is at the Top of most of the old Houses, unhappily
+fell down and kill’d three Persons that were passing along the Street:
+Whereupon the Government, out of their great Care to prevent all such
+Accidents for the future, ordered the Landlords of every House to cause
+those staggering Pyramids to be pulled down: This has had two good
+Effects; for People are not so liable to be knock’d o’the Head, and the
+Town looks handsomer. The principal Ornament of the Houses is their
+Windows, there being scarce a Country that has finer Glazing, and many of
+the Houses have Windows of polish’d Plate-glass. But in some Palaces of
+_Venice_ or _Genoa_, the Paintings and Gildings only of the Ceilings are
+worth more than the finest House in _Amsterdam_. Yet I don’t deny but
+there are Houses here, in the Rearing of which no Cost has been spar’d,
+but in general they are small. There are scarce any that have above five
+Windows in Front, others have four, and the greatest Part three. The Entry
+is by Steps of black Marble or Stone. To the Houses of the common Size,
+there’s a very narrow Entry pav’d with white Marble, with which the Walls
+are often fac’d, at least to a certain Height. The Apartment consists
+generally of two Rooms on a Floor, a little Court behind it, and a second
+Pile of Building, which is but one Room in Depth, and has Lights towards
+the Garden. At _Venice_ and _Genoa_, a Merchant (for I set the Nobles
+aside) will have at least an Apartment of three or four Rooms. At
+_Amsterdam_ the Furniture is neatest, and in _Italy_ the richest. Here one
+shall find a curious Piece of _Flemish_ Tapestry, a Closet of Pictures,
+fine Glass, a great deal of _China_ Ware, and curious Toys from the
+_Indies_; the Floor shall be covered with fine _Persian_ Carpets; but you
+shan’t see any Furniture of Velvet embroidered with Gold, no Lustres of
+Rock-Crystal, no great Collection of Paintings, nor that Abundance of
+antique Busts, Vases and Statues of Marble and Brass. In fine, to conclude
+this long Parallel, I must tell you, that if the Palaces of _Italy_ were
+as neat as the Houses of _Amsterdam_, there would be nothing to compare to
+them; and if the Houses of _Amsterdam_ were as much neglected as those of
+_Italy_, they would be of no Manner of Account.
+
+Be a House here ever so small, there’s always some Apartment in it
+uninhabited, which is the finest Part of the Building. ’Tis a Sanctuary
+whereof the upper Servant Maid of the House is the grand Priestess. She
+has so profound a Respect for this unfrequented Place that she never
+enters it without putting off her Shoes, for fear of soiling the Floor,
+which is held in so great Veneration that they pay it a Sort of Worship:
+’Tis the Residence of the Houshold Gods, and one is sure of incurring the
+Indignation both of the Mistress and the Maids, if one does not shew the
+same Veneration to their Floor as they do. Whoever enters the House, must
+first rub their Feet upon a Mat at the Door, and be sure not to spit, were
+they in Danger of being choak’d, unless they find a little Basket of Sand
+laid there for the Purpose; and if a Person should but happen to drop the
+least Thing capable of spotting the Floor, I am not sure that the
+Priestesses would not sacrifice the Delinquent to their Idol, and that we
+should not see the Revival of the Story of _Orpheus_ and the _Bacchantes_.
+There are however some particular Days in the Year when the Priestesses
+give their Masters Leave to enter these Sanctuaries, and therein to
+receive Company; but the very next Day, this Place, which in the Language
+of the Country is called _Besse-Kamer_ (i. e. _the best Room_) is wash’d
+and purify’d, as our Churches are after they have been profaned. I don’t
+make Things a jot worse than they are in reality, and I am sure there are
+some Rooms that are not opened four times in a Year, unless it be to air
+the Goods. ’Tis the same with a thousand fine Things in the
+_Amsterdammers_ Possession, which they don’t make use of for fear of
+spoiling them: Thus they live in the midst of Abundance, and of Wealth,
+without the Hearts to enjoy what they have. Nevertheless, within these few
+Years past, they begin to have some Taste of Life: They give into
+Equipage, Furniture, and Rural Entertainments, and their Women into Dress
+and Splendor. The old Men exclaim against new Fashions, and say the
+Republic is in a declining State, in which they resemble one of our
+Emperors, who observing that his Master of the Horse had changed the
+Cord-Traces, which had been the Fashion of his Court, into Leather Traces,
+cry’d out, That _Luxury would be the Ruin of his Family, and his
+Government_.
+
+The Government of _Amsterdam_ is in a Senate, consisting of sixty-three
+Persons, who hold their Places for Life; and when any one dies, ’tis the
+Senate that appoints his Successor: In this Body there are twelve
+Burgomasters, of whom four preside annually. They chuse three out of the
+twelve every Year, who with one of the four of the last Year, that
+continues in Office, have the Direction of Affairs. These latter, before
+they enter into their Office, are obliged to take an Oath to the senior
+Burgomasters. He who is continued from one Year to the other, has the
+Presidency for three Months, after which the others take it in their
+Turns; and they who go out of their[103]Office, are commonly employed as
+Treasurers of the City, or as Counselor-Deputies to the States of
+_Holland_, residing at the _Hague_.
+
+The Office of Burgomaster is more honourable than profitable; for ’tis
+said, their Salary is only five hundred Florins _per Annum_: But their
+Authority is considerable; for they are the chief Magistrates, and in some
+Sort the Masters of the City. They dispose of all the public Money, and
+they alone judge of what is necessary for the Safety of the Town. They are
+the Guardians of the Bank, which can only be opened in the Presence of one
+of ’em. They confer all Offices, and may therewith gratify whom they will,
+and if they please, their own Children; so that, as in _Germany_, there
+needs but a Bishop in a decay’d Family to repair its Misfortunes, so here,
+if there be but a Burgomaster in a Family, ’tis enough to make ’em all
+easy.
+
+There is also in this City a Bailiff, who is called _Hoofd-Schout_, or
+_Hoofd-Officier_, who is the same that is elsewhere called the Lieutenant
+of the Police. He has under him three Substitutes, who are called the
+_Under-Schouts_. These are they who apprehend Malefactors, which they
+often do in the midst of a Mob, only accompanied with a Couple of Archers
+who have no other Arms but Swords. Yet every one trembles at the Sight of
+’em, and two Men carry another to Prison, with more Ease than forty
+Archers can do the like at _Paris_.
+
+The Senate meets in the Stadthouse. This Fabric, so much celebrated for
+its Magnificence, and because it contains the richest Bank in the
+Universe, is really a stately Edifice; and tho’ it has Defects, it may be
+ranked in the Number of the finest Buildings in _Europe_. It fronts a
+Square called the _Dam_, in the Centre of the City. The Building is almost
+a complete Quadrangle, with Pavilions at each Angle. In the middle of the
+principal Front there’s an advanced Building which takes up one third of
+the whole Front. ’Tis decorated by seven Porticos, so small that they
+disfigure all this great Pile of Building; which they pretend was not
+owing to the Ignorance of the Architect, but to a political Cause: For at
+the Time that this Stadthouse was built, the Republic was but in its
+Infancy. The Populace of _Amsterdam_, a turbulent Mob, ready for any
+Mischief, were then far less submissive to their Magistrates than now; and
+they so often disturbed those Magistrates in their Deliberations, that the
+Architect chose to make the Avenues so narrow, on purpose to prevent the
+Inconveniencies of too easy an Entrance by a Crowd of People. But if this
+was his true Reason for not keeping to the Rules of Architecture, three
+great Porticos would have done as well as seven small ones: He might have
+given them due Proportion, and the Front would have been more majestic.
+But the Number Seven was the chosen Number, and it was to represent the
+Seven United Provinces, to whose Union the City of _Amsterdam_ owes its
+Enjoyment of Liberty and Commerce. Notwithstanding this Defect, ’tis
+certain that a Foreigner, tho’ he will not offer to compare this
+Stadthouse to the Palace of _Versailles_, to the Escurial, or to the
+_Procuraties_ at _Venice_; and tho’ when he looks on it, he may only think
+he sees a Town-house, and not the Palace of a King, or of a powerful
+State, yet he cannot behold it without Admiration, especially if he does
+but consider that every Material in this Building was brought from foreign
+Countries.
+
+The Outside of this great Fabric is all of Free-stone, extremely well put
+together; and an Order of very substantial Pilasters ranges quite round
+the whole. The Part which projects from the principal Front, is terminated
+by a Pediment, which is a grand Piece of Sculpture. It represents the City
+of _Amsterdam_, under the Figure of _Cybele_, seated in a Chair. Four
+_Naiads_, and two Sea Nymphs, present her with Crowns of Palms, and
+Laurels, and Fruit, in token of the Power and Abundance which this City
+receives by Commerce. On the other Side, _Neptune_, accompanied by the
+_Tritons_, seems approaching to pay his Homage to the Goddess, undoubtedly
+to denote the Power of this City at Sea. All this magnificent Groupe is
+extremely well executed, and very much esteemed by the Connoisseurs. A
+Dome at the Top of this Edifice has eight great open Arches all round,
+which support the Cupola; and in this Dome there’s a Chime of Bells which
+the Lovers of such noisy Music say is very good Harmony.
+
+The first Room within is the Chamber of Justice, wherein the Criminals
+receive their Sentence. It has three Porticos which open into the great
+Square, from whence may be seen what passes in that Chamber. This Room is
+adorned with Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, done by excellent Hands.
+_Solomon_’s Judgment is there represented in such a grand Manner as is
+wonderful. Beyond this Chamber is the great Stair-case, which has no
+manner of Ornament, and little or no Light. It leads to the great Hall,
+which is really magnificent, but not very lightsome. It is adorned with
+Pilasters and Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, executed with infinite Art. The
+arch’d Roof, which is of Wood, and painted with Oil, is not answerable to
+the Richness of this Hall. Four great Coridors or Galleries, laid open by
+great Arches on both Sides, at the two Ends of the Hall, lead to the
+Apartments, and are adorned with white marble Pilasters two and two,
+Flowers in Bas-Relief, and Statues of a grand Disposition; and the Emblems
+with which the Gates are adorned, are all very suitable to the Business
+that is transacted in the Chamber to which they open.
+
+I shall not undertake to give you the Particulars of all these Rooms, not
+only because it would carry me too far, but because I observed nothing in
+them, except some Paintings, that is worth your Notice. The Arsenal takes
+up one intire Floor over these Chambers, but is only considerable for the
+prodigious Quantity of Arms of the modern Fashion, especially Muskets,
+which are the Manufacture of this City, and a Part of its Commerce.
+
+The ground Floor is very low, but consists of fine great Arches. Here are
+contained the Offices of the Bank, and the Prisons, from which no body
+ever yet escaped, and it is humanly impossible they should; for besides
+that the Walls are very thick, the whole is strongly barricaded both
+within and without, by iron Bars, the very Appearance of which is
+frightful. But if ’tis possible for Prisons to be agreeable, these would
+certainly be such, for they are all lightsome; the Prisoners are not so
+ill used as they are elsewhere, but are allowed proper Nourishment, and
+not suffered to Wallow in their Nastiness.
+
+The Stadthouse is the Place where all Persons are married, who are not of
+the Religion that prevails in the Country. This is a Ceremony that may be
+seen every _Sunday_, and is performed in the Presence of two Echevins, and
+a Secretary. The People that are to be married, go into a Room where the
+Magistrates are seated at a Table, and there they are entered one after
+the other without Distinction of Rank, into the Register of Marriages;
+after which they go Home with the Satisfaction of having been as well
+married as if the Ceremony had been performed by the Pope himself; nor are
+they under the least Necessity of having recourse to the Church.
+Nevertheless, all the regular People go to some Priest or Minister to
+receive the nuptial Benediction.
+
+The Treasure of the Bank is kept in a Place under Ground, which extends,
+as I am assured, a great Way under the Square of the _Dam_.
+
+Every body agrees that it is immense, but nobody knows exactly of how many
+thousand Millions it consists; and it is a Question, whether its Credit be
+not infinitely greater than its Cash; it being certain that the Public has
+such a Confidence in it that every body puts their Money into it, though
+without any Interest for it: On the contrary, it costs One hundred and
+five Florins ready Cash, to have One hundred Florins Bank. The largest
+Payments are commonly made in Bank Notes: A certain Sum is registered in
+the Bank Books, which is transferred, either in whole, or in Part, to the
+Person to whom the Payment is to be made, This is called _The Keeping an
+Account at the Bank_. It was a Correspondence of this Nature which the
+famous _John Law_ would fain have establish’d at _Paris_; and he would
+certainly have succeeded, if he had had but the Fund of the Bank of
+_Amsterdam_, and the public Confidence.
+
+They say that the Revenues of this City amount to fifty thousand Livres a
+Day, which I am apt to believe is true; for really the Taxes here are very
+considerable, the Subjects of this State paying more than those of any
+Crown whatsoever: All the Difference consists in the Distribution of the
+Taxes, and the Manner of raising them: Here they are laid equally upon the
+Rich and upon the poor, upon Citizens and upon Foreigners.
+
+The Liberty so much boasted of in these Provinces, is no more than that
+which the good People of other Countries enjoy; nevertheless, I must
+except Religion, which every one here may adapt to his own Fancy. The
+Liberty therefore consists only in the Equality of Conditions: But for a
+Boor to presume to be saucy to a Burgher, to despise the Nobility, to
+censure his Masters with Impunity, and to treat all Kings as Tyrants,
+seems to me to be a Liberty which favours very much of Libertinism. The
+_Germans_ and the _French_, who are not used to such Licentiousness in
+their own Country, easily fall into it here; and ’tis really a Wonder to
+hear them in a Coffee-house talking of Sovereigns, especially when,
+inspir’d with a Holy Zeal, they plead for the Religion, which, say they,
+is every-where oppressed, except in the Dominions of the Calvinists. They
+think every Government tyrannical, which does not allow intire Liberty of
+Conscience. ’Tis true that in this Country every one believes as he
+pleases: And here are Religions of every Kind, which nevertheless tend to
+one and the same Centre, _viz._ the acquiring of Riches, and the
+tormenting both of Body and Soul, to get an Estate, not to enjoy it, but
+to have the Pleasure of dying rich. Money, the Darling and the Idol of the
+whole World, is so adored in this City, that it stands in the stead of
+Birth, Wit, and Merit. A Man who has but a small Share of the Favours of
+Fortune, is neglected almost every-where; but here he is despised.
+
+Next to those of the prevailing Religion, the Catholics, among whom I
+include the Jansenists, are the most numerous: I have been told, they are
+above twenty thousand. They have fourteen Churches, served by different
+Orders of Friers, who as they die, the States have declared, shall be
+succeeded hereafter by none but the secular Priests who are Natives of the
+Country. They say, that this Resolution was taken, because the Monks sent
+the Money which they received for the Poor, to their Convent. What Ground
+there is for this Charge, I know not; but be it as it will, who can be
+sure that the Priests will not employ the Poors Money to enrich their own
+Families? The Catholics form a considerable Body in this State, both for
+their Number and their Wealth. It may be said that they are with the
+_Jews_ (forgive me the Parallel) one of the chief Supports of its
+Commerce; for as they cannot hold Offices, they are Merchants from Father
+to Son; tho’ ’tis true, that among the Protestants who are in Offices,
+there are some who trade.
+
+What I have now said to you of our Clergy, engages me to give you some
+Account of two Calvinist Preachers here, who are very much esteemed, and
+mightily followed by those of their Communion. The one is M. _Alstein_, a
+_German_ Minister, who preaches in the Church called the _Chapel_, a Man
+of exemplary Morals, who avoiding angry Disputes and bitter Invectives,
+preaches truly Christian Morality, which reaches to the Heart. He was
+Minister of the Garison of _Potsdam_, in the Dominions of _Prussia_, when
+he was called hither by the _German_ Colony established in this City. He
+is belov’d and esteemed for his Modesty, Good-nature and Candour. This
+Testimony which I pay him of the Veneration and Esteem I have for him, is
+perfectly agreeable with the Character given of him by the Voice of the
+Public.
+
+The second Preacher is M. _Châtelain_ a _French_ Minister, with whom I
+have no Acquaintance; but he has a very great Character, and I have heard
+him preach. It were to be wish’d, that all the Clergy (our Priests will
+suffer me not to forget them) had it as much at Heart as this Minister
+has, to instruct their Audiences; and that they would preach Morality,
+which is the Life of all Religions, because it is founded upon Piety and
+Virtue. M. _Châtelain_ was Minister at the _Hague_, when he was called to
+this City, where he has the Pleasure of being as much esteem’d and
+follow’d by his Flock, as he was by that which he left.
+
+I have many other Things to acquaint you with, but upon my Word, I can
+write no more at present, my Pen falling out of my Hand. I shall resume it
+however against next Post, not so much to tell you of _Amsterdam_, as to
+assure you that no body can be more intirely yours, than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER LI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Amsterdam, Dec. 7, 1732._
+
+Since the Weather is set in for Frost, I keep my Station upon the Ice, to
+see the People slide upon Skates; a favourite Exercise of the _Dutch_, in
+which they acquit themselves with marvellous Dexterity. These Skates are a
+very little smooth Piece of Wood, like a Weaver’s Shuttle, except that the
+Part on which the Heel and the Sole of the Shoe rest most, is a little
+broader. The Remainder of it is slender and crooked at the End, that the
+Iron which is underneath may the better cleave the Snow, and that they may
+with the more Ease surmount the Obstacles and little Hillocks in the Ice,
+over which they pass with great Rapidity, but not without Danger of
+breaking their Legs or Arms, and often of being drowned. The _Dutch_ are
+less exposed to these Inconveniencies than others, because they are most
+expert in the Art; for they learn to skate when they can scarce go alone.
+This is rather the Diversion of the common People, and of the lusty young
+Fellows, than of the Gentry, or of Men full-grown. These go in Sleds,
+after the Manner of our Country, which is what they call here _Narren_;
+_i. e._ to play the Fool: And indeed, to consider it duly, I think ’tis a
+right Name for it.
+
+The Place where I take the Air, is upon the River of _Amstel_, without the
+Gate of _Utrecht_, where I see several Thousands of People scudding along
+upon Skates, so fast that they seem to fly. If one of these Skaters was to
+be seen in _Swisserland_, I know not whether he would not suffer the Fate
+of _Brioche_, the Puppet-Show Man, whom the People of those Cantons burned
+for a Conjurer.
+
+These Skaters are a great Relief to me; for to tell you a Secret, I am
+quite sick of this City, which really is not a Place for a Man to live in,
+that is not concerned in Trade; and a Foreigner especially, knows not how
+to bestow himself. He can find nowhere to go but to some sorry
+Coffee-house, or melancholy Walk. In the one he is sure to be _incens’d_
+with Tobacco, and stunned with wretched Commentaries upon News-Papers or
+the Price of Pepper and Ginger; in the other he is as solitary as a
+Hermit. Their Comedies are but a poor Relief to such as don’t understand
+_Dutch_, which besides is a Language that I think is not very fit for the
+Stage, any more than ours. I thought the Actors pitiful, and the Habits
+trifling; but the Decorations are fine, and the Theatre spacious and
+magnificent. I can’t imagine why the Magistrates will not let _French_
+Comedies be acted in their City, where I think they would do more Good
+than Harm; for they would help to polish the Youth, and would undoubtedly
+keep them from that Temptation to Debauchery, to which Idleness, and the
+Difficulty of knowing where to spend the Evenings, naturally incline them.
+I heard _d’Argenson_, the late Keeper of the Seals say, he had observed,
+while he was Lieutenant of the Police at _Paris_, that there were more
+Disorders and Debaucheries committed in that City, during the Fortnight at
+_Easter_, when the Theatres were shut up, than were committed in four
+Months, while all Shows were kept open. I doubt not but it would be the
+same at _Amsterdam_, where there is a numerous Youth, for whom the Parents
+are blindly complaisant, and ready to kill the fatted Calf; so that being
+left to their own Devices, and having in general but few Maxims of
+Education, they run with the Stream of their Passions into all
+Extravagancies. These young Fellows, who prefer the Exercise of driving a
+Chaise before all others, set up in the mean Time for fine Gentlemen; but
+how well they perform their Part, I leave you to think.
+
+The Assemblies, or Societies, as they are here called, have nothing that
+is engaging. You see very fine Faces there, but not a Tongue moves, at
+least to a Foreigner, the very Sight of whom seems to frighten them. Here
+they drink Tea, or play a Game at Ombre, or Quadrille, and afterwards go
+in quest of a Supper.
+
+Those Societies, or Clubs, where there are no Ladies, are still worse. In
+these they smoke and drink in Abundance, talk of Trade or Politicks; and
+at such Times, woe be to those Powers that have forbid the Importation of
+_Dutch_ Toys into their Dominions. The only Remedy here against Chagrin,
+is Reading, of which a Man may have his Heartful; for _Amsterdam_ is not
+only the Centre of the Bookselling Trade, but here are Book-sellers, that
+are very ready to lend Books to such, who, like myself, cannot be at the
+Charge of a Library. I divide my Time between Reading, the Coffee-house,
+and taking the Air, the latter of which I use very moderately, one being
+obliged to go so far for it, that I think of it at least four times before
+I set out. The Canals, such as the _Heers-Gracht_, and the
+_Keizers-Gracht_, are pleasant Walks in the Town, because they are planted
+with Trees; but they are indifferently paved. Upon these two Canals, live
+Persons of the greatest Distinction, or rather those of the greatest
+Wealth in the City.
+
+One of the finest Walks in it is the Bridge, which joins the Rampart from
+one Side of the _Amstel_ to the other. ’Tis six hundred and fifty Feet in
+Length, and seventy in Breadth; and here one enjoys an admirable Prospect,
+which is the only one perhaps that can be compared with the View from
+_Pont-Royal_ at _Paris_.
+
+The Admiralty, with its Precinct, forms a little Town. ’Tis one of the
+Arsenals of the _Dutch_ Navy. Here one actually sees Seventy Men of War,
+and Materials for building a much greater Number. With the Leave of the
+_Venetians_, their Arsenal, so much boasted, is by no means comparable to
+this, with regard to Naval Stores.
+
+The Admiralty Office is so near the _India_ Company’s Warehouse, that I am
+tempted to give you some Account of a House which contains such a
+Treasure. ’Tis a very great Structure of several Stories, distributed into
+divers Chambers, or Rooms, where there is a prodigious Quantity of all
+manner of Spices, of which the most common Sorts lie in Heaps as Corn does
+in our Granaries. There are also a great many other Things of Value; and
+in a Word, every Thing, be it ever so precious, that comes from the
+_Indies_. After I had walked about an Hour in this Warehouse, I was, as it
+were, embalmed with the Odour of all the different Spices, which made my
+Head ake exceedingly, or else I should have thought myself metamorphosed
+into a Mummy; but jesting apart, I fancy that were a Carcase to be
+deposited in this House, it would be free from Corruption. The _India_
+Company is properly a Republick, within the Republic itself. It arms,
+disarms, raises and disbands Officers and Soldiers, without being
+accomptable to the State. It maintains a Governor in the _Indies_, who
+lives there with more Pomp and Grandeur than his Masters do here. As a
+_Neapolitan_ Lady at _Madrid_ wish’d _Philip_ IV. _that he might one Day
+be Viceroy of_ Naples, so it might be said to a Director of the
+_East-India_ Company, _I wish you may be one Day Governor of_ Batavia.
+
+I don’t give you an Account of the Houses of Correction, nor of the
+Hospitals, of which here are a great Number well founded, and well
+maintained, because I have an extraordinary Antipathy to Prisons, and
+dread the very Name of an Hospital, to which however I perceive that I am
+making great Strides; but it will be Time enough for me to give you an
+Account of those Mansions, when I have fixed my Quarters there. A
+Description of a Synagogue would not, I believe, be material to you;
+therefore I shall only acquaint you, that here are two, one for the
+_Portuguese_ Jews, which is very fine, the other for the _German_ Jews.
+They are both Jews alike, but differ in their Taste and Sentiments. The
+_Portuguese_ Jews are the handsomest of the two, for they shave their
+Beards, and some of them are very genteel. I was shew’d one the other Day,
+who was a smart young Fellow, and might, have cut a Figure among the
+Petits-Maîtres. I was told, that he had been educated in our Religion, and
+that he seemed to be fond of it; but being at _Paris_, in the Retinue of
+M. ***, Ambassador of ***, he ran away from that Minister’s Service, and
+came to _Amsterdam_, where he turned as staunch a Jew as if he had never
+heard the Name of Jesus Christ.
+
+Near the Jews Quarter there is the Garden of Simples. I am not Botanist
+enough to tell you what Plants it contains; but have been assured, that
+’tis one of the finest in _Europe_ for foreign Plants, which, considering
+the great Trade that is carried on by the _Dutch_, is not improbable.
+
+When I have told you, that the public Walk, which they call _The
+Plantation_, is near this Garden, and that it consists of several fine
+Rows of Trees, one of which is cut out in the Shape of a Fan, I shall
+think that I have not omitted giving you the minutest of my Remarks on the
+Inside of _Amsterdam_.
+
+The Suburbs of this great City, in which ’tis said there are about five
+hundred thousand Souls (as many as are in _Naples_) are extremely
+populous. There are above eight hundred Windmills continually at Work, in
+grinding Corn, or sawing of Timber. On the other Side of the Harbour,
+there are several Villages, of which _Sardam_ is the most considerable,
+not only for its Size, in which it surpasses many Towns, but for the
+Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are called Peasants, and pretend to be
+nothing else, tho’ I can’t imagine why; for they trade and make a Figure
+here upon the Exchange, like the most substantial Merchants, and don’t
+apply themselves to Agriculture. I have been told, that there are above a
+thousand Windmills at _Sardam_, always employed in sawing of Timber; which
+would have been a rare Field for _Don Quixot_ to have display’d his
+Valour. That Neatness of which the _Dutch_ are so fond, is cultivated to
+the greatest Nicety in this Village; and the _Amsterdammers_ themselves
+cannot but own and admire it.
+
+The Peasants of _Sardam_ dress more like the Citizens of _Amsterdam_ than
+those of the other Villages in these Parts do, whose Apparel is of a very
+extraordinary Fashion. They wear monstrous large Trowsers, wide enough to
+make some People a whole Suit. Under this Trowser there is another Pair of
+Breeches, and perhaps a third, or else a Pair of Drawers; and to the two
+Pair of Breeches which are in Sight, they have solid Plate Buttons bigger
+than a Crown piece, They also wear four or five Waistcoats, one over the
+other, which are set so thick with silver Buttons that they perfectly
+touch one another. Over all this Cloathing they have a dark-colour’d
+Surtout or Doublet, which keeps them extremely tight downward, and
+therefore all their Waistcoats ride up, so that they seem to have Breasts
+like Women. Their Shoes are Seamen-like, or, with Reverence be it spoken,
+such as are now worn by the _French_ Petits Maitres. They have also silver
+Buckles, but so large that they are fitter for the Harness of Horses than
+for Shoes. I assure you, that if the _Romans_ had been dressed like these
+Peasants, the _Carthaginians_ would have taken a richer Booty in silver
+Buttons than they did at the Battle of _Cannæ_, when they took that Heap
+of _Roman_ Rings. The Women also wear a small Equipage of Gold and Silver.
+They have gold Ear-pendants, a Bodkin of the same which fastens their
+Caps, Chains about their Necks, in Form of Pearl Necklaces, great Rings,
+and in all this there’s no Expence grudged.
+
+The _Sardamers_ are so very much wedded to their ancient Habit, that a
+Father once refused to own his Son, because having been for some Years in
+_France_, he came to wait on him upon the Exchange of _Amsterdam_, in a
+Suit of Cloaths bedawb’d with gold Lace. Young _Calf_, which was the
+Peasant’s Name, arriving at _Amsterdam_ about Change-Time, went thither,
+supposing he should find his Father there, in which he was not mistaken,
+and he ran to embrace him; but the Father pushing him away, ask’d him what
+he wanted, and told him that he did not think he had the Honour to be
+known to him, and that probably he was mistaken in his Man. The Son’s
+calling him Father, signify’d nothing. Old _Calf_ being inexorable,
+interrupted him, saying, _I your Father! I have but one Son, who is such a
+Peasant as I am, and not a Lord, as you seem to be_. The young Fellow
+perceived that his Father took Umbrage as his Dress; therefore he went to
+a public House, sent for Cloaths after the _Sardam_ Mode, and having thus
+equipped himself, went upon the Exchange next Day, where his Father
+received him with all the Tokens of the most endearing Tenderness. After
+that Day, young _Calf_, who went in _France_ by the Name of _de Veau_
+(which is the Signification of his Name translated into _French_) always
+continued to dress in this Manner. This gave Occasion some Years ago to a
+very pleasant Adventure: A _Frenchman_ who had known M. _Calf_ at _Paris_
+by the Name of _de Veau_, coming to _Amsterdam_, inquired every-where for
+M. _de Veau_, who he said was a very rich Nobleman, of high Rank, as he
+guessed by his Train of Attendants. It was a long Time before he could
+hear any Tidings of him, because few People knew that young _Calf_ had
+frenchified his Name in foreign Countries. At length a _Frenchman_, who
+was settled at _Amsterdam_, offered the _Parisian_ to find out his Friend
+for him. For this Purpose he carried him to the Exchange; and pointing to
+M. _Calf_, _Stop_, said he to him, _there’s the Man you are looking for_.
+The _Frenchman_, who did not know M. _de Veau_ in his Country Garb,
+thought that his Guide bantered him. _Parbleu Mons._ said he, _I told you
+plain enough, that the Person I want is a Nobleman, and not a Peasant_. M.
+_Calf_ hearing the Foreigner speak, and knowing him at first Sight, went
+up to him, and welcomed him upon his Arrival in _Holland_. The _Frenchman_
+knew him instantly by his Voice, but thought himself in a Trance, because
+he could not imagine how ’twas possible for a Person whom he had known a
+Nobleman in _France_, to be a Peasant in _Holland_. M. _Calf_ explained
+the Mystery of it to him however, as far as was convenient, considering
+the Place where they were, and desired his Company to _Sardam_. The
+_Frenchman_ went accordingly, and when he came thither, ’twas a fresh
+Matter of Surprise to him to see the Peasant had the House and Furniture
+of a Nobleman. M. _Calf_ shew’d him, that tho’ he had laid aside the Garb,
+he had not renounced the Politeness of the _French_, entertained him with
+good Chear for several Days, and then sent him back highly delighted to
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+The Village of _Sardam_ being in North _Holland_, I cannot avoid giving
+you some Account of this Nook of that Province. Here is a perfect
+Miscellany of Meadows, Canals, Country Houses, Gardens, great Villages,
+and good Towns, an Uniformity of Beauties, which is only disagreeable by
+being continued. He that sees one Town or House, sees all, and so of the
+rest. The principal Towns of this Canton are _Horne_, _Alcmaer_, and
+_Enckbuysen_, which are all built with the same Neatness, but have nothing
+of Magnificence belonging to them, except it be the Walks at their Gates.
+All these Places are so deserted, that it would take up the _Emigrants_ of
+three or four Bishopricks to people them. Their Trade decays, _Amsterdam_
+being the Loadstone that draws all to it. This Part of the Province of
+_Holland_ is very much infested with Worms which eat into the very Stakes
+pf the Dykes. The People are in Hopes that the Frost will kill them, and
+put an End to a Calamity which is one of the worst that can befal this
+Country. It is not certain how these Insects breed, nor whether it be in
+the Sea, or in the Timber itself: One would imagine from some little
+external Specks of the infested Stakes, these Worms must breed in the Sea,
+and from thence make their Way into the Wood, no bigger than Needles,
+after which they grow as big as the Silkworm, and gnaw the Inside of the
+Timber, in such a Manner that it looks like a Honeycomb. The Spoil they
+make is said to be in those Parts only of the Stake which are under Water.
+The Damage they have done to the Dykes is very considerable, and has so
+very much alarmed the States, that they have prohibited Plays, &c. at the
+_Hague_, and ordered public Prayers. A great many People pretend that this
+Province was visited by such a Scourge fifty or sixty Years ago, and that
+it was delivered from it by a Sort of Fish, that have never been seen
+since, which devoured all those Worms. Others treat this as a Fable, and
+say, that such Insects were never known, much less the Fish by which they
+were devoured. Be this as it will, several Treatises will shortly be
+published, to shew the Origin, Nature and Progress of the present Species
+of Worms. If I am not mistaken, these Books will point out the Method, and
+the Remedies proper for destroying them; and if any of ’em are printed
+before I depart this Country, I will not fail to send them to you.
+
+For the rest, I cannot say that I have had any other Satisfaction in my
+Tour to North _Holland_ than the Gratification of Sight; for Company does
+not seem to be the Taste of the Country. I never stirred out but every
+body took me for a very odd kind of a Man: Yet I am no Petit-Maître; nor
+is there any Thing uncommon in my Make. The Sex in this out-of-the-way
+Country is very handsome, and here are Country Lasses who have a delicate
+Complexion, not inferior to the finest Ladies. These Sylvan Beauties are
+generally fair, and have such a languishing Look, that I guess they would
+not prove unkind to any young Faun that courted them. For my own Part, who
+am too far advanced in Years to attempt an Intrigue with ’em, I content
+myself with admiring these beautiful Nymphs, whose Favours would perhaps
+rather mortify than gratify me, and which in either Case, I should not
+prefer to the Honour of your Friendship; a Thing to me of Price
+inestimable. Of this I beg the Continuance, and flatter myself, that I
+deserve it by the Attachment with which I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Helvoetsluys, Feb. 2, 1733._
+
+Being detained in this Port by Winds that have for these six Days
+obstinately opposed my Passage to _England_, without any Prospect of their
+changing, I am at full Leisure to inform you of such Things as I have seen
+since the last Letter that I had the Honour to write to you from
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+I was carried from that City in the Boat in less than three Hours to
+HARLEM, the second of those Towns that have a Right to send Deputies to
+the Assembly of the States of the Province. It was for a long Time the
+Rival of _Amsterdam_, and actually at War with it, but could not hinder
+its Aggrandisement. While those Provinces fought for their Liberty,
+_Harlem_ was besieged, taken and plunder’d by the _Spaniards_, against
+whom the very Women bore Arms. In 1559, Pope _Paul_ IV. erected this Town
+into a Bishoprick, but it never had more than two Bishops. The Splendor of
+it is owing to its Manufactures, which consist of Silk-Stuffs, Cambrics,
+strip’d Dimities, and Thread Stockings. Its Whitsters also bring a great
+Revenue to this Town. The Florists cannot fail of being agreeably amused
+here, by reason of Flowers of such Beauty, that I have been assured a
+Tulip-Root has been sold there for fourteen hundred Florins. But the
+greatest Honour of _Harlem_ is to have given Birth to _Laurence Coster_,
+the Inventor of Printing. I am not ignorant that _Mentz_ disputes with
+_Harlem_ for the Honour of that Invention, but this being a Controversy
+which ’tis none of my Province to determine, I sincerely believe, when I
+am at _Harlem_, that _Coster_ is the Inventor of this wonderful Art,
+provided I may be at Liberty to believe the contrary when I am at _Mentz_,
+and to be uncertain of the Matter everywhere else. _Coster_’s House is to
+be seen here with the following Inscription placed Over the Gate, which
+denotes, that _Printing_, the BEST ART for perpetuating the other Arts,
+was first invented here about _Anno_ 1440.
+
+                            MEMORIÆ SACRUM.
+                              TYPOGRAPHIA,
+                           ARS ARTIUM OPTIMA,
+                             CONSERVATRIX,
+                           HIC PRIMUM INVENTA
+                          CIRCA ANNUM MCCCCXL.
+
+In order to reconcile the two Towns, I believe it might be granted, that
+_Coster_ invented the Art of Cutting in Wood, which was formerly made use
+of, and that _John Faustus_ of _Mentz_ invented the Characters of Metal,
+that are used now. By this Means the two Parties will have equal Share in
+the Glory of the Invention, which after all is disputed with them by the
+_Chinese_, who prove that the Art of Printing was known to them two
+thousand Years ago.
+
+As I walked about in _Harlem_, my Guide bid me look at certain Cambrick
+Cockades trimm’d with Lace, which were tied to some of the Doors. He told
+me, that this was to shew that the Woman of the House was in Childbed;
+which procures the Husband a Protection, so that he cannot be arrested
+during six Weeks that his Wife is supposed to lye-in. What was the
+Occasion of the Grant of this Privilege, I could not learn, nor by what
+Prince it was granted.
+
+The Walks of _Harlem_, especially that in the Wood, which is at the Gates
+or the Town, would be charming, if they were not so sandy. On the other
+Hand, the Canal which leads from this Town to _Leyden_, is one of the most
+disagreeable in the Province, there being scarce any Thing upon its Banks
+but Meadows and Downs.
+
+LEYDEN is one of the largest and finest Cities in the Country. It has been
+subject, as all sublunary Things are, to great Revolutions and
+Misfortunes. The _Spaniards_ besieged it in 1573, and as they despaired of
+taking it by Force, they intended to reduce it by Famine. The Inhabitants
+were drove to the utmost Misery, till they pierced the Dykes of the
+_Maese_, and the _Issel_, by which Means all the great Meadows about
+_Leyden_ became a perfect Sea of Water, and the _Spaniards_, in Danger of
+perishing, raised the Siege: And the 3d of _October_ is annually observed
+with Rejoicings in Memory of the Deliverance of the Town upon that Day of
+the Month.
+
+The great Church, dedicated to St. _Peter_, is one of the finest
+Structures in _Holland_. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall
+Pillars. All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy,
+and a great many have Canals. ’Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number
+of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the
+meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are
+not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay’d, since the
+Importation of Cloth from _Holland_ has been prohibited by some of its
+neighbouring States.
+
+The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually
+three great Men for Professors, _Vitriarius_ for the Civil Law,
+_Boerhaave_ for Physic, and _s’Gravesande_ for the Mathematics. The first
+is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing
+himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_
+to _Leyden_. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of _England_
+excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir’d
+than they are at _Leyden_: Nor is there any Place more proper for
+Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how
+they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here
+don’t value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in
+_Germany_; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is
+also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came
+thro’ this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease
+in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look
+like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much
+describ’d, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches
+here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven
+Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.
+
+The Passage from _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, whether by Land, or by the
+Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and
+fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that
+these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.
+
+The HAGUE, which is called a Village, because ’tis not inclosed, and sends
+no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless
+a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is
+certainly one of the finest in _Europe_. The States General, as well as
+those of this Province, assemble here, and ’tis the Place of Residence for
+the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of _Holland_ lived here.
+Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their
+Court here; and the _Hague_, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned
+for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more
+genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the
+other Parts of _Holland_. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does
+not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have
+something more engaging than mere Beauty.
+
+The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho’ perhaps not so
+magnificent as those at _Amsterdam_; and here are some Palaces with
+Gardens.
+
+The Palace which they call _the Court_, was anciently the Residence of its
+Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric,
+consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There
+meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of _Holland_,
+the Council of Nobles, and that of the _Gecommitteer de Raden_, or Deputy
+Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their
+Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one of which is called the
+_Chamber of the Truce_, because the Truce for twelve Years was there
+concluded with _Spain_. ’Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience
+to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace,
+in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies
+of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for
+lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their
+Expence. It was built by Prince _Maurice_ of _Nassau_, after he returned
+from his Government at _Brasil_, and he adorned it with all the Rarities
+that are the Production of the _Indies_. But all these Things, as well as
+the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the
+Duke of _Marlborough_ set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the
+Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this
+House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho’
+’tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.
+
+The Palace of the _Old Court_ belonging to the King of _Prussia_, because
+it fell to _Frederic_ I. by Inheritance from King _William_ III. is a
+large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced
+Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron
+Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are
+large and commodious, and there’s a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings
+by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much
+embellished by the late King of _Prussia_, who gave Leave for all People
+of Fashion to see it; but ’tis now neglected. The King’s Minister, and
+the[104] Count _de Hompesch_, General of the States Cavalry, have
+Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you,
+which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things
+that are needless.
+
+The Situation of the _Hague_ is very different from that of the other
+Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there’s every Thing that
+forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved
+With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to
+_Scheveling_, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the _Hague_. ’Tis
+a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees
+interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The _Delft_ Road, and that which leads
+to _Loosduinen_, one or two Leagues from the _Hague_, are also very
+beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks,
+and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That
+called the _Voorbout_ is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the
+Coaches. There’s a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in,
+where in all the Summer Evenings there’s very fine Company. ’Twas
+_Charles_ V. that embellished the _Hague_ with this Walk. It has
+occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the
+most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. _de Thou_, the
+_French_ Ambassador, and M. _de Gamarre_, the Ambassador of _Spain_. These
+two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they
+met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were
+just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States,
+who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their
+Mediation, and proposed to both of ’em to return back at that very Instant
+by the same Way they came. M. _de Gamarre_ was very ready to comply with
+any Proposal; but M. _de Thou_ refused every one, and would by no means
+admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of _Spain_. The
+Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by
+several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. _de
+Beverwert_, the first of the Nobles of the Province of _Holland_, after
+having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no
+purpose, seeing M. _de Thou_ obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage,
+proposed at last to M. _de Gamarre_, to drive off across the Ring; and for
+doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two
+Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would
+have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The
+_Spanish_ Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the
+Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States,
+might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased
+themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained _the vain Honours of
+Precedency_; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho’ in short, if there were any
+Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of _France_, because he
+obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he
+finished his Carrier, while the _Spaniard_ returned home, perhaps because
+they had disputed so long till Night overtook them.
+
+The _French_, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the
+most Disputes about this Matter. The Count _d’Estrades_, the Embassador of
+_Lewis_ XIV. had one in this same _Voorbout_, with the Prince of _Orange_,
+afterwards King of _Great Britain_. Their Coaches happened to meet, and
+each of ’em aiming at the Post of Honour, they stopped over-against one
+another. The Ambassador’s Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined
+by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of
+the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been
+very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock’d together for
+the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to
+prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him,
+_I know not what the Prince’s People mean; I was ignorant till now, that
+the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign_ (implying that the Ambassadors
+only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess
+Dowager of _Orange_, to know whether the Prince’s Governor was not more to
+blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That
+’twas the King of _England_’s Business to concern himself in the Affair;
+for she imagin’d, that his _Britannic_ Majesty was bound in Interest to
+support the Dignity of his Nephew’s Rank. Nevertheless, she follow’d the
+Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the
+Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made
+his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador’s passed into the Rank which
+he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince’s
+Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary,
+they went a League from the _Hague_ to receive them, on the Part of the
+States; insomuch that _Frederic-Henry_ the Prince’s Grandfather, tho’ upon
+Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not
+take the first Place. _Charles_ II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being
+sold to _France_, he did not stand up for his Nephew’s interests.
+
+Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of
+such Foreign Ministers as reside at the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Fenelon_, Brigadier of the _French_ King’s Armies, is his most
+Christian Majesty’s Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is
+Nephew to the Great _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_. He is esteemed for
+his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His
+Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the
+Inhabitants of the _Hague_, who have not forgot what was spent among them
+by my Lord _Chesterfield_, Ambassador from _Great Britain_, one of the
+most sumptuous Noblemen in _England_, who was perfectly adored by the
+common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of
+Distinction.
+
+The Count _de Sinzendorff_, the Emperor’s Plenipotentiary, has a great
+Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great
+_Sinzendorff_, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that
+he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so
+successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and
+the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the _Ostend_
+Company, and to get the _Pragmatic Sanction_ guaranteed by their[105] High
+Mightinesses.
+
+The Count _de Golofskin_ is Plenipotentiary Minister of _Russia_, which
+Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He
+is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He
+passed his Youth at _Berlin_, and performed his Exercises at the Academy
+founded by the late King _Frederic_ I. He was afterwards several Years
+Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar _Peter the Great_, and from the
+late Empress _Catharine_ to the Court of _Prussia_; from which Court the
+present Empress _Anne_ sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of
+_France_: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign’s Affairs with
+the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While
+he resided at _Berlin_, he there married the Daughter of the late Count
+_Ferassier de Dhona_, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of
+_Denain_, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the
+Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and
+she has the most charming Family that is to be seen.
+
+M. _de Masch_, Envoy from the King of _Prussia_, is a very fit Person to
+manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a
+Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him
+Governor to the Princes of _Brandenbourg Culmbach_, the eldest of whom is
+actually the Prince Regent of _Bareith_. M. _de Masch_ has inspired those
+Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor
+of the Regency of _Cleves_, when the King sent him into this Country,
+where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had
+subsisted[106] between his _Prussian_ Majesty, and the Prince of _Nassau
+Orange_, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King
+_William_ III.
+
+M. _de Brosse_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, manages Affairs here for
+the[107]King of _Poland_, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has
+acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his
+fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless,
+he makes a grand Appearance.
+
+M. _de Sporck_, Minister here from the King of _Great Britain_, as Elector
+of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very
+young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his
+Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, one of the wisest
+Ministers of his Time, ’tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress.
+He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does
+the Honours of her Family to Perfection.
+
+I am not acquainted with the Envoys of[108]_Sweden_ and[109]_Denmark_. M.
+_d’Ayrolles_ takes care of the Interests of the King of _Great Britain_,
+and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business.
+
+Don _Lewis d’Acunha_, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of
+_Portugal_, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important
+Embassies. He was his Majesty’s second Ambassador at the Congress of
+_Utrecht_, which Employment he afterwards had in _England_, then in
+_France_, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his
+Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty
+Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was
+younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry.
+
+Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers
+who reside at the _Hague_. Those of the States are not many. M. _de
+Slingeland_ the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of ’em. The consummate
+Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets
+of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one
+of its principal Pillars, and _Europe_ ranks him amongst its greatest
+Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the
+_Hague_ was what _Rome_ was formerly under a _Sixtus_ V. the Centre of
+Politics. He succeeded the late M. _Hoornbeck_ in the Office which he now
+holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation.
+Tho’ he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout,
+he gives Application to Business[110].
+
+His Second is the _Gressier Fagel_, one of the greatest Genius’s of the
+State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his
+Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which
+accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a
+Library, which is a most learned Collection; and a Cabinet of Medals, and
+of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done
+by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious
+Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he
+takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. ’Tis pity that this
+Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced,
+cannot live for ever.
+
+’Tis certain that the _Hague_ contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of
+both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of
+Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were
+I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my
+Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of
+such only as make the greatest Figure at the _Hague_, either on Account of
+their Employments, or their Birth.
+
+The _Hague_ is the best Place in _Europe_ for a Foreigner to make a good
+Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or
+Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so
+little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to
+Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this
+Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady _Albemarle_, M. _de Keppel_,
+and the Count _de Welderen_. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of
+_Albemarle_, General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, Colonel of the _Swiss_,
+Governor of _Tournay_, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of
+the _Keppel_ Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these
+Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of _Orange_, who, when he came
+to be King of _Great Britain_, created him a Peer of _England_, with the
+Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and it may be
+said, that my Lord _Albemarle_, and my Lord _Portland_, were two Noblemen
+for whom _William_ III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord
+_Albemarle_ maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his
+Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any
+Thing, but to leave every thing to the King’s voluntary Grace and Favour.
+This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in _England_. The Lady
+his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs _Vander Duin_, Nobles of this
+Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as
+the first Lady of the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Keppel_[111], the Brother of the late Earl of _Albemarle_, is a
+Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment
+of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High
+Mightinesses to the Court of _Prussia_. He lives very grand at the
+_Hague_, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear
+a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame _de Keppel_,
+heretofore _Welderen_, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible,
+and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count _de Welderen_,
+Deputy of the Province of _Guelderland_, to the States General, is not
+inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a
+Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after
+appointed Ambassador to _England_, in order to congratulate their
+_Britannic_ Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in
+_England_ was very splendid, but the _English_ did not so much mind the
+young Ambassador’s Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back
+with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of _England_, the
+Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of _London_. At
+his Return to the _Hague_, the Count _de Welderen_ resumed his Seat in the
+Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his
+House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a
+Member of the Council of State, (they call him the _Waldgrave_) who is a
+young Gentleman of great Merit.
+
+My Lady _Cadogan_, the Dowager of my Lord _Cadogan_, a trusty Friend of
+the late Duke of _Marlborough_, and his Successor in his Employments,
+keeps an Assembly every _Sunday_ Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of
+_Richmond_, who is look’d upon at the Court of _England_, as one of its
+Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, _viz._ my Lady _Margaret_, one of
+the most amiable Ladies at the _Hague_.
+
+The Countess _de Wartemberg_, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, lives retired at the _Hague_, much after
+the same Manner as the Duchess of _Mazarine_ did at _London_. She turns
+Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners,
+and there is very great[112]Play. But she is not so fond as the Duchess
+of _Mazarine_ was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a _St.
+Evremond_ wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always
+give the Preference to a young _Alcides_.
+
+By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir,
+that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There
+is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another
+alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they
+being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of
+the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The
+Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an
+_Hebrew_ Anti-Comedian has sent for from _Paris_, on Purpose to ruin the
+Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a
+zealous Man for the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector
+should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the
+_Hague_ are Parties in this great Quarrel; but ’tis my Opinion, that in
+order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the
+other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens
+of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does
+not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they
+are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the
+Police[113].
+
+You will, no doubt, think it a Phænomenon, to find that a _Hebrew_, whom
+in _Germany_ we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither
+very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the
+Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste:
+But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government
+upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the
+_Portugueze_ Jews, they deserve it; for a _Texeyra_, a _Schwartzo_, a
+_Dulis_, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most
+virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would
+take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their
+Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at
+their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and
+differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue.
+
+The Nobles of the greatest Distinction in the Province, are the
+_Wassenaars_, and the _Boetselaars_.[114] The former are divided into
+several Branches, whereof that of _Obdam_ is the eldest. The Emperor
+_Charles_ III. raised this Branch to the Dignity of Count of the Empire.
+The present Count _d’Obdam_ is Grandson to the famous Admiral of that
+Name, who delivered _Copenhagen_, and in Gratitude for whose Services, the
+King of _Denmark_ conferred the Order of the Elephant upon him, which no
+Foreigner had been honour’d with before, unless he were a Prince. After
+this Admiral’s Death, the same Order descended to his Son, who died a
+Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Service of
+the Republic. The present Count _d’Obdam_ is Knight of the Order of St.
+_John_, and, together with his[115] Brother, is of distinguish’d Rank in
+this Government. He spent Part of his Youth at the Court of _Berlin_,
+where his Father was Envoy Extraordinary. At that Time nobody was so brisk
+and gay; but he is thoroughly changed, and lives now very much retired,
+and applies himself wholly to Devotion and Business.
+
+Of the Blood of _Nassau Orange_, those Princes, Founders of the Republic,
+there remains no more than one young Prince, besides the Counts
+_d’Auverquerque_, _Zeist_ and _Laleck_, who are by the Left Venter. The
+Prince is Hereditary Stadtholder of _Frieseland_, Stadtholder of
+_Groningen_, Stadtholder and Captain General of the Province of
+_Guelderland_, and the Country of _Drente_. He bids fair some Day or
+other to be a worthy Possessor of the Station of the Princes whose Name he
+bears[116].
+
+_Maurice_, Count _d’Auverquerque_, is the Son of a Peer of _Great
+Britain_, who was promoted to that Dignity by King _William_ III.[117] He
+is a Major General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons. He is a
+Nobleman of distinguished Merit, and signalized himself very much in the
+last War.
+
+M. _de Zeist_, one of the richest Nobles of this Province, is Deputy of
+the Province of _Utrecht_, in which he has a great Estate.
+
+The Count _de Laleck_ is the oldest Lieutenant General of Horse in the
+Service of the States. He has a Regiment, and is Governor of _Menin_, one
+of the Barrier Towns. The three last-mentioned Counts are Cousins, and
+form three Branches. They are descended from Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_,
+and _Anne_ of _Mechlin_. My Grandmother was a Daughter of that Prince.
+
+I am still to give you an Account of M. _Hogendorp_, Receiver General of
+the State, an Office which in this Country, as well as elsewhere, is
+liable to Envy, and exposes him that exercises it, to the Censure of the
+Public. M. _Hogendorp_ has had his Share of both, for several Years: And
+tho’ his Enemies have not been wanting in any Thing to ruin him, yet he
+stands his Ground, and the States approve of his Conduct. He lives with as
+great Magnificence and Splendor almost as any Subject of the Republic.
+
+In one of my former, I gave you an Account of two living Preachers at
+_Amsterdam_; and here I cannot refrain the mention of a certain Minister
+lately dead, whose Name is illustrious among those of his own Communion,
+and ours too. The Person I mean, is M. _Saurin_, who was always reckoned
+here, and in all the Provinces, one of the most eloquent Preachers, since
+the Repeal of the Edict of _Nantes_.
+
+A great Number of Epitaphs have been made for this famous Preacher; but as
+they are all good for nothing, I content myself with sending you an
+Epitaph on those very Epitaphs.
+
+                              _EPITAPHE._
+
+                        On the EPITAPHS made for
+                               M. SAURIN.
+
+      _Sous ces tisons, sans titres, sans paraphes,
+      Incognito gisent vingt Epitaphes,
+      Qu’ont arraché de leurs maigres cerveaux,
+      Incognito vingt chétifs Pôetereaux;
+      Difaut vouloir par detestable rime
+      Loiier encor certain Esprit sublime,
+      Dont rien ne dis, savon qu’à ses talens,
+      Vivant trouva force contradisans.
+      Chantres grossiers du bourbeux Marecage,
+      Pour Dieu, cessez votre maudit ramage!
+      Si noblement chanter n’est votre fort,
+      Dires tont court, Le_ grand Saurin _est mort._
+
+_It may be thus Engslish’d_:
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      Under these Firebrands
+      lie _incognito_, no less than a
+      Score of Epitaphs, without
+      Title or Subscription, rack’d
+      _incognito_ from the sterile Brains
+      of as many paltry Poetasters,
+      pretending by detestable Doggrel
+      to extol a certain sublime
+      Genius, of which I say nothing,
+      but that whilst he was
+      alive, he met with a great
+      many who contradicted his
+      Talents. But, for God’s sake,
+      ye stupid Bards of the muddy
+      Fens, leave off your cursed
+       croaking! And as you have
+      not the Gift of noble Poetry,
+      say nothing more, than that the.
+      GREAT SAURIN is dead.
+
+During my Stay at the _Hague_, I heard much Talk of one _Armand_ a
+_Frenchman_, whose extraordinary Adventures were at that Time the
+Discourse of all Companies. He did not want Understanding, but he was one
+of the oddest and most extravagant Mortals breathing. His Passions, which
+sometimes rose to a Degree of Fury, were the Cause of all his
+Misfortunes. I have been promised the History of him, and if my Friend
+keep his Word with me, I will not fail to send it to you[118].
+
+
+           _The History of_ John Barre, _called_ ARMAND.
+
+_JOHN BARRE_, a Native of the Province of _Burgundy_, appeared at
+_Amsterdam_ in 1720, by the Name of _Armand_. He was a handsome Man, in
+the Prime of his Age, and seemed to have had a good Education. He said he
+was come from _France_, because he had killed a Man in a Duel. Any other
+Man besides himself, in a Case of the like Nature, would have been at a
+terrible _Nonplus_ to find himself pursued by Justice, and forced to fly
+from his native Country, and his Friends, without Money, into a strange
+Land, of which he understood not the Language, and thrown into a great
+City, in the midst of a numerous People, where a poor Man is so hard put
+to it to make an Acquaintance. But _Armand_ was never at a Loss for
+Stratagems to relieve him. Being a bold intriguing Man, an excellent
+Tongue-pad, and a Poet into the Bargain, or at least very ready of making
+Verses, he quickly found Means to get Acquaintance. He might even have
+passed for a Man of Quality, if Necessity had not forced him to make use
+of a Talent which was a plain Discovery of the contrary; for he shewed
+himself a complete Writing-Master, and made excellent Scholars in a very
+little Time.
+
+With this Resource, _Armand_ might have lived very happy; but the Violence
+of his Temper, and his satirical Humour, made him quickly lose his
+Patrons and best Friends. Besides these Defects, of which he was beyond
+all measure guilty, he was suspicious, haughty, self-will’d beyond
+Comparison, fantastical in every Part of his Behaviour, and an extravagant
+Admirer of his own Productions; so that a Person was sure of being thought
+the worst Enemy he had, if he did not applaud every thing he did; and
+’twas enough to put him into a Fury, if one did not think as well of his
+Verses, as he did himself. Two or three Passages only are sufficient to
+demonstrate this to be true.
+
+He lodged at the House of a Burgher, who had so great an Opinion of him,
+that he thought himself happy in having such Opportunities of Familiarity
+with a Man who had won his Heart by his Wit and his Behaviour. As they
+often eat and drank together, _Armand_ invited his Landlord one Day with
+all his Family and some Relations to a Supper, when, according to his
+usual Way, he had provided a magnificent Repast. When they were seated at
+Table, a Lady of the Company thought fit to call for a particular Sort of
+Bread, which she had been used to eat; whereupon the Landlord immediately
+sent out of the Room for some; which _Armand_ perceiving, and mistrusting
+that they thought he had not provided Bread enough, he rose nastily from
+Table, and went out, but came back again in a Moment, with a Basket full
+of Bread, which he turned topsy-turvy upon the Table: And as if this Piece
+of Rudeness was not enough, he ran out of the House like a Madman, and
+spent the rest of the Evening in walking up and down, at a great Rate,
+before his Door.
+
+Having heard, that M. _P----_, Agent for the Naval Affairs of _France_ at
+_Rotterdam_, made Verses in a very pretty Manner; he went by the
+Inspiration of _Apollo_, to pay him a Visit; and after having made him a
+Compliment on his Quality of Poet, he presented him some Verses of his own
+making, of which he earnestly desired that he would give him his Opinion.
+M. _P----_, who was not so fond of Flattery as _Armand_, made him Answer,
+That he had been misinformed; that he was far from being a good Judge of
+Poetry, and therefore hoped he would not look upon him in that Light.
+_Armand_ took his Answer for a downright Affront, and retired bluntly from
+him, not without abusing him. Nor did Mr. _C----r_, to whom he paid a
+Visit for the same Purpose, fare a whit better; and to be revenged of both
+those Gentlemen, he wrote an Epigram against them, which he pasted up one
+_Sunday_ at the Door of the _French_ Church.
+
+_Armand_ being disgusted with the Reception he met with from the Wits at
+_Rotterdam_, had recourse to the Merchants. He went to see M. _C----t_, a
+Person of known Probity, either to present his Verses to him, or to offer
+him his Service, in Quality of a Writing-Master. As M. _C----t_ was a
+little hard of Hearing, he thought it proper to apprize our Poet of it in
+the first Place; but he, imagining that ’twas only a Pretence to dismiss
+him, turned his Back upon him, and went away very much incensed at the
+Affront which he thought he had received. He had even the Rashness to fix
+up a very offensive Paper some Days after, at the Exchange, to tarnish the
+honest Man’s Reputation; and the same being immediately torn down by M.
+_C----t_’s Friends, _Armand_, as soon as he heard of it, put up another,
+even more insulting than the former. M. _C----t_, to prevent his being
+again exposed to such Insults, carried his Complaints to the chief
+Magistrate of _Rotterdam_, who summoned the Author of the Advertisement
+to appear before him. _Armand_ obeyed the Writ, and pleaded in his own
+Defence, that being a Foreigner, he did not know he had done any thing
+that was prohibited by the Laws of the Country; but that having been
+lately informed of the contrary, he was willing to make the Person injured
+any Amends that should be thought proper, and promised at the same Time to
+depart the City forthwith. The Magistrate put up with his Reasons, and
+only insisted, on the Performance of his Promise. Therefore he left the
+City, and set out to his former Quarters at _Amsterdam_.
+
+The ill Success of his Verses was so far from abating his versifying
+Humour, that his Passion for Poetry was only become the stronger. At his
+Return to _Amsterdam_, he began to write Satires against his Enemies at
+_Rotterdam_, whom he accused of having ruined all his Projects. Then he
+undertook to turn the tender Amours of _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_ into
+Burlesque Verse. This Piece, full of Obscenities, and of satirical Lashes
+of his Enemies, quickly ran thro’ all the Coffee-houses; and when he
+thought he had put the finishing Stroke to it, he met with a Bookseller,
+who was willing to undertake the Printing of it, tho’ it had been despised
+by all good Judges.
+
+While this Work was printing, _Armand_ contracted a Friendship with the
+Count _de Bucquoy_, so well known for his Adventures and Extravagances.
+This Count too pretended to write Verses, and was as great a Rattle as
+_Armand_. Their Resemblance of each other so much in Temper, was judged at
+first to be such a Cement as would have consolidated their Friendship for
+a long Time: But a too great Freedom taken by the Count embroiled them
+implacably, and gave Rise to a Scene which had like to have been tragical.
+The Count, who was not yet perfectly acquainted with his Friend’s
+Blind-side, took it into his Head one Day, as he was in _Armand_’s
+Chamber, to make a Criticism upon his Poetry, which was a little too
+severe. _Armand_, to whom nobody had ever presumed before to talk at that
+Rate, was in a furious Passion, and called his Censor an impudent Fool,
+and a Fortune-Hunter. At last the two Poets fell to Blows; but _Armand_
+being the strongest Man, he forced the Count out of his Chamber, kick’d
+him down Stairs, and so drove him into the Street.
+
+We proceed now to that fatal Accident of _Armand_’s Life, which was the
+Cause of all his Misfortunes, and brought him at last to the Scaffold.
+_Armand_ had contracted a Friendship of a long standing, with a Person of
+_Bayonne_, one _B----_, a young Fellow, who tho’ destitute of a Fortune,
+had been so lucky as to marry a very rich Heiress. At the Time when the
+Public believed there was the strictest Union subsisting betwixt them,
+they were strangely surprized to hear that _B----_ had informed against
+his Friend, for a horrible Outrage; and that upon this Accusation _Armand_
+was arrested, and committed to Prison. _B----_ pretended that being one
+Day in _Armand_’s Chamber, _Armand_ shut the Door upon him, and forced
+him, with a Dagger at his Throat, to sign a Bond for a thousand Ducats.
+_Armand_’s general Character was enough to condemn him; whereas _B----_,
+on the contrary, passed for a young Man of an unblameable Behaviour; but,
+to his Misfortune, the Affair was so circumstanced, that it could not be
+duly prov’d; for, instead of calling out for Help, at least, as he went
+out of the Room, he retired without saying one Word, and did not so much
+as go and make his Complaint till two Days after: But for want of direct
+Evidence against the Prisoner, he caused Inquiry to be made into his Life
+and Conversation, and discovered, that _Armand_ was but a borrowed Name,
+and that his true one was _John Barré_; that he had a Wife and four
+Children; that he had been Receiver of the Salt-Office at _Vezelay_ in
+_Burgundy_; in short, that he had kill’d his Brother-in-Law in the
+Country, with a Fowling-Piece; and that having fled for it, he was
+outlaw’d and condemn’d to be hang’d.
+
+When _Armand_ appear’d before the Judges, he fairly own’d what his
+Accusers had alledg’d against him, with regard to his Name, the Place of
+his Residence, and the Cause of his Flight; but he deny’d his having
+murder’d his Brother-in-Law, tho’ he confessed that he had kill’d him in
+his own Defence. As what he had done in _France_, was quite out of the
+Question; the Judges were only for adhering to the Point in hand. _Armand_
+said, that _B----_ had of his own Accord given him a Bond for a thousand
+Ducats, in Acknowledgment for the Service he had done him, in lending him
+some Money, and promoting his Marriage. He pleaded his own Cause very
+courageously, without the least Trembling or Self-Contradiction. _B----_,
+on the contrary, seemed to falter in every thing that he said, which made
+it suspected by some, that he had only charg’d _Armand_, in order to have
+a Pretext for not paying the Sum that he had promised him. Yet others,
+with more Probability, ascribed _B----_’s Faint-heartedness upon this
+Occasion to his natural Timorousness, and to the Confusion into which an
+Accusation of this Nature, laid without any Proofs to support it, must
+needs cast him.
+
+_Armand_ being very urgent for an Issue of the Affair, the Judges, who
+found nothing that could support _B----_’s Pretensions, passed a Sentence,
+Whereby the latter was to pay the thousand Ducats, and the Defendant was
+to be set at Liberty, after giving Security for the said Sum, in case of
+an Appeal to the Court of _Holland_, saving to himself the Liberty of
+prosecuting his Adversary for Costs, Damages, Interest, and Reparation of
+Honour. _B----_ did not fail to appeal from that Sentence to the Court, as
+did like wise _Armand_, who having given the Security required, and
+received the thousand Ducats, shews himself thro’ the whole Town, with a
+long Beard, which he suffered to grow in Prison, and which he swore should
+not be taken off till he had carried his Cause at the Court.
+
+In order to hasten the Decision of the Affair, he repaired to the _Hague_,
+where the Court at length passed a Sentence, which confirmed that of
+_Amsterdam_; and then he sued for Repair of Honour, and for Damages and
+Interests. _B----_ finding himself by this Means cast in all his Demands,
+and fearing the Consequences of the Law-Suit, thought fit to set his
+Affairs in Order, and withdrew to _France_. The Court immediately clapp’d
+a Seal upon his Effects, summon’d him three times to appear, and ’tis
+probable that he would have been condemned upon an Outlawry, if _Armand_’s
+Misbehaviour had not put a sudden Stop to the Courte of Justice. The
+Occasion of this Incident was as follows:
+
+_Armand_ was so impatient for the Issue of his Process, that he went every
+Day to teaze his Judges, who sometimes were not at Leisure to grant him
+Audience. Upon a certain Day, as he came to the Door of the
+Attorney-General, one of the Domestics told him, his Master was not at
+home; and the Man was going to shut the Door against him, when _Armand_
+said, _I know the contrary, and must needs speak with him_. Upon this they
+fell to abusing one another, when _Armand_, losing all Patience, struck
+the Domestic several Blows, and put the whole House in an Alarm, for which
+he was carried to Prison; from whence however he might have had a speedy
+Deliverance, if he would but have confessed his Fault, and made the
+Attorney-General proper Satisfaction: But instead of doing this, he
+behaved to Mr. Attorney in a strange Manner, and threatened to be revenged
+of him. But he paid dear for his Insolence, and was sentenced to lie in
+Prison twelve Years. He remained there till 1734, when the Court thought
+fit to remove him to another Town, till the Expiration of the Term
+mentioned in the Sentence. _Armand_ being acquainted with this Resolution,
+imagined, no doubt, that he was now to be treated with more Severity than
+ever, and perhaps that he should be privately dispatched; and from that
+Time he had no Command of himself. He formed a Design to murder the
+Archers when they came to meddle with him, or at least to prevent their
+seizing him; and for this Purpose he had taken one of the Bed-posts, which
+he not only armed with Nails, but fastened the Blade of a Penknife at one
+End of it. Being thus prepared for his Defence, on the Day appointed for
+his Removal; two Archers came to take him, of whom he ripp’d up the Guts
+of one, and broke two Ribs of the other. After this, none of the Archers
+durst venture to come near him, till the following Stratagem was thought
+of, by which they effectually quelled him. Two Archers were ordered to
+make each a Hole in the Wall of the Prison, and at the very Instant when
+_Armand_ was peeping through one of them, to examine the Cause of it, a
+Pistol was discharg’d in his Face, loaded with Sand, which put his Eyes,
+Tongue and Face into such an Agony, that he was not able to defend
+himself, but surrendered, and begged Quarter. At the same Time he was
+seized, and clapped in Irons. When he was under Examination, he confessed,
+that his Design was to murder any one that offered to remove him; and that
+he would do it again, if it were in his Power; which Circumstance was such
+an Aggravation of his Crime, that he was condemned to lose his Head.
+
+The View of approaching Death was so far from being shocking to him, that
+he seemed perfectly unconcerned. But what was very observable in this
+unaccountable Man, was that the dreadful Prospect of the infamous Death he
+had so justly deserved, was so far from engrossing his Thoughts, that it
+did not in the least abate the Fondness he had always discovered for his
+Verses; so that at the very Time when a Minister was preparing him for
+Eternity, he interrupted him short, by telling him, _Sir, Here are some
+Verses of my own composing; I desire you would let me read them to you. I
+always loved to divert myself with Works of this Sort_. An Attorney, who
+was present at the same Time, performing the Office of a Comforter, seemed
+to be shock’d at the Reading of a Composition so unsuitable to one in such
+Circumstances; but _Armand_, looking on him with a very angry Countenance,
+told him in plain Terms, That he was an Ass; and that he wondered how a
+Man of his Profession, an Attorney, at constant Variance with Heaven, and
+for ever and ever accursed, should take it into his Head to turn
+Comforter, and pretend to make Peace between God and Man.
+
+The Day of Execution being[119] come, he was carried before the Judges to
+hear Sentence of Death passed upon him: But they had scarce begun to
+pronounce it, when he grew strangely outrageous, and said, ’twas unjust
+to read his Sentence to him in a Language which he did not understand. It
+was to no Purpose that they told him, it should be explained to him in
+_French_; for he still rav’d on in the same Strain; so that they were
+obliged to stop his Mouth with a Handkerchief, which they held tight
+behind, by both Ends. However, upon his making a Sign that it strain’d him
+too much, they slacken’d it, and then he promised, that if they would take
+it quite off, he would keep a profound Silence. He was attended to the
+Place of Execution by a Minister, and saluted such of his Acquaintance as
+he saw mixed in the Crowd, with a Smile. When he was on the Scaffold, and
+fixed his Eyes on the Gallows, he turned pale, saying, that he had been
+promised different Treatment, and that he did not think he should be
+turned out of the World in the Manner for which he saw that Preparation.
+They encouraged him, by telling him, that he should only have his Head cut
+off, if he did not use Violence; but that if he did, he should be hanged,
+and hoisted up to the Gallows by a Pully, there for that Purpose. He made
+Answer, that he did not care to swing out of the World by a Halter. He
+then asked the Executioner, if he was perfect in his Business; to which he
+answered in the Affirmative, adding, That he had by his Dexterity made
+sixteen Heads leap already, with very good Success, and that he hoped his
+would be the seventeenth to do him Honour. Then _Armand_ demanded where
+the Sword was, and the Executioner told him, that it should be ready at
+the Time. At last the fatal Moment being come, he fell on his Knees, and
+as soon as his Eyes were blinded, he had his Head struck off at one Blow.
+
+I have nothing particular to tell you of the Palace at _Honslaerdyck_, and
+of the[120] _House in the Wood_, which belong to the King of _Prussia_,
+because they are neither of ’em what they were formerly. They are running
+so to Decay, that shortly they will not deserve the Mention. As I passed
+to _Honslaerdyck_, I went thro’ the Village of _Loosduinen_, where I saw
+in a Church, the Basin, in which, ’tis said, were baptized the three
+hundred and sixty-five Children, of which a Countess of _Holland_ was
+delivered at one[121] Birth, in Pursuance of the Wish, or rather Curse of
+a poor Woman, who having a Charge of Children, and coming to beg Alms of
+her, was not only denied, but rebuked for having so many Children;
+whereupon she wished, that the Countess, who was then pregnant, might be
+brought to Bed of as many Children as there were Days in the Year; which
+happened accordingly. This remarkable Event is set forth in a Picture
+carefully preserved in the Church.
+
+The Palace of[122] _Ryswic_, where the Peace was signed in 1697, being in
+no better Condition than that of _Honslaerdyck_, I did not think fit to
+strike out of the fine Road to DELFT, to go and see it. This Town, which
+is a League from the _Hague_, has nothing remarkable to be view’d, besides
+the Tomb of _William_ I. Prince of _Orange_, who was assassinated at
+_Delft_, in 1584, by _Balthasar Gerard_, of the _Franche Comté_. The
+Republic which caused this _Mausoleum_ to be erected, spar’d no Cost to
+leave Posterity a Monument worthy of its Founders, and of their Gratitude
+for the signal Services which had been done them by that Hero. The Arsenal
+for the Land Service of this State, is at _Delft_, and there are few in
+_Europe_ that are better furnished, or kept more in Order. This Town
+drives a great Trade in earthen Ware. As it is at the same Distance from
+_Ryswic_ as the _Hague_, the Ambassadors of _France_ resided here during
+the Congress. ’Tis now inhabited by several People, who either from being
+weary of the World, or by Reason of Misfortunes, have chose Retirement.
+From hence you will imagine, ’tis not a very gay Place, so that I made no
+Stay here, nor no Acquaintance.
+
+ROTTERDAM, three Leagues from _Delft_, is by much the most populous Place,
+and is only inferior to _Amsterdam_, on Account of its Commerce. Its
+Situation on the _Maese_, six Leagues from the Sea, gives it a
+Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_, and the neighbouring
+Provinces, both by means of that River, and several Canals and Rivers that
+fall into it. Its greatest Trade is with _England_ and _France_, and here
+are three _English_ Churches, _viz._ One that is Episcopal, or of the
+Church of _England_ by Law establish’d, one _Presbyterian_, and one
+_Scots_. As to us Catholics, we have several Churches here in Chambers,
+and the Jews have a neat Synagogue.
+
+The Statue of _Erasmus_, the Restorer of the _Latin_ Tongue, which is
+placed in the Market-place, is altogether plain. This learned Man is
+represented in the Habit of a Doctor, holding a Book in his Hand. The
+Pedestal is plainly decorated with a _Latin_ Inscription, as is the House
+where he was born, which is preserved just as it was then, and is a very
+small and mean Building. ’Tis said, that on the same Square where
+_Erasmus_’s Statue stands, the Magistrates intend to erect a Stadthouse,
+of which they are really in great Need, that which they have being a very
+sorry one. If this Project takes, it were to be wished that they may
+employ a more able Architect, and a more diligent one than they have made
+use of in building an Exchange, which has been a long Time begun, and is
+but half finish’d yet. ’Tis true, that as it is, ’tis too large for the
+Number of Merchants that meet in it; but after all, ’tis amazing that a
+City, which has the Reputation of being wealthy, should let one of its
+principal Edifices stand unfinish’d.
+
+There are some magnificent Houses in this Town, but its greatest Ornament
+is its Canals, broad and deep enough for the Entrance of Shipping, which
+is a great Convenience to its Trade. I know not how sociable the People
+are at _Rotterdam_; for tho’ I have gone through it several times, I never
+stay’d long enough there to make any Acquaintance in it. I always took the
+Air for most part upon the fine Kay that runs along the _Maese_, which is
+beautified with a pleasant Row of Trees on one Side, and noble Houses on
+the other.
+
+From _Rotterdam_ I went thro’ _Maeslandsluys_ to the BRILLE, a well
+fortified Town upon the _Maese_, near the Mouth of that River. This Town
+is famous in the History of the _Netherlands_, because in the Year 1572,
+_William de Lumai_, Count _de la Marck_, and some of his Confederates, who
+went out to Sea, to avoid falling into the Hands of the Duke of _Alva_,
+took it by Surprize, and there laid the first Foundations of the Liberty
+of the United Provinces.
+
+When I left the _Brille_, I came to HELVOETSLUYS, the saddest Place in all
+_Holland_. The Winds, which have been boisterous for some Days, hinder the
+Packet-Boat and me from setting out for _England_. In the mean time, I am
+very ill here. I am cramm’d twice a Day with boil’d Ducks, roasted Ducks,
+and others tossed up with a high Ragoû, and yet I am ask’d if I will not
+please to have more Seasoning. Perhaps it was this Town only that a
+certain _Frenchman_ had seen, when he said that he had taken Notice of but
+three Things in _Holland_, and they began all three with the Syllable Ca,
+_viz._ _Canals_, _Canards_ (Ducks), and _Canaille_, _i. e._ Mob; for
+certainly there are other Things to be seen in the rest of Holland, where
+there are as many genteel People as in any Country in the World. Nay, I
+dare affirm, that a certain Candour prevails here, which is perhaps not so
+general elsewhere. ’Tis rare for a _Dutchman_ to know the Arts of Tricking
+and Cheating, and he is of a friendly Disposition, if his Purse be out of
+the Question. If they were not so much in Love with their Money, there
+would be as few Faults to find with this Nation as any. I could like to
+live with ’em very well. When one treats them with Civility, one may do
+any thing with ’em. And it was a Saying of the Emperor _Charles_ V. _You
+must give the_ Dutch _good Words, leave ’em the Shadow of Liberty, but
+make them pay well for it_.
+
+Be these People as much as they will for their own Interest, they are
+charitable, and would have every one live. They have not perhaps that gay
+Wit, which is of all Things so taking; but then they have good Sense. I
+have often taken a Place in the Boats, on purpose to hear what was said
+there; and have been surprised to find the common People talk of Trade, of
+the Interests of the State, and of other Countries, of the Manners of
+different People, of the History of their own Country, and in short, of a
+thousand other Things, with more Justness, perhaps, than a great many
+Epigrammatists, Stanza-makers, and Rhymesters could do elsewhere.
+
+For the rest, this Country is as charming in some Things, as it is
+disagreeable in others. ’Tis certain, that the People are now and then too
+insolent; yet a _Dutchman_ does not care to be the first to give an
+Affront; and unless a Foreigner provokes him by his Pride, or his
+Pertness, he will indulge himself in his Phlegm.
+
+I can’t imagine why Foreigners take a Pleasure to run down _Holland_, as a
+Country where they have been skinn’d. This might have been the Case with
+’em in such a Hole as _Helvoetsluys_, or else at _Rotterdam_, when one
+_Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee, kept the Sign there of the Marshal _de
+Turenne_; but ’tis not so in a good Town, where every Foreigner, I mean
+such as are willing to be sociable, and to eat at the Landlord’s Table,
+know what they have for their Money. The Ordinary is settled, Wine,
+Lodging, and every Thing at a certain Price. Suppers are the only Meals
+that plunge deep in a Man’s Purse, of which a Foreigner must be cautious.
+As to Carriages, either by Land or Water, the Fare is fixed; and ’tis
+impossible for a Man to be cheated, unless it be in frosty Weather, when
+’tis certain one is at the Mercy both of the Watermen and Coachmen.
+
+’Tis wrong also for some Foreigners to cry out, as they do, against
+Justice, which I find more impartial here than elsewhere. But it does not
+always act with the Vivacity which a Foreigner would wish for, who often
+has neither the Time, nor the Means, nor the Inclination to wait for it.
+He then finds fault with Justice, when he ought rather to blame the
+Situation of his Affairs.
+
+I fear that you will be angry with me for having abused your Attention by
+this long Letter, which I now conclude, by assuring you, that nobody can
+be more intirely than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _London, April 12, 1733._
+
+’Tis not possible for me to be insensible how greatly I am obliged to you
+for that Uneasiness which you seem to be under, till you can hear of my
+Arrival in some safe Harbour of this Kingdom, tho’ ’tis no more than what
+I expected from such a Friend as you. I should have prevented your Anxiety
+upon this Score, if I had not thought it proper to take a little View of
+this Country, before I wrote one Word to you about it; and now I flatter
+myself that I am able to satisfy your Curiosity.
+
+I had one of the most favourable Passages that could be; for in less than
+eighteen Hours, I came from _Helvoetsluys_ to _Harwich_, which is the
+Harbour for the Packet-Boats that pass betwixt this Kingdom and _Holland_.
+
+_Harwich_ not seeming to me to be worth a Traveller’s Notice, I only
+stopped to hire Horses, and came with all Speed to London. _That City_,
+which for its Extent, the Number of its Inhabitants, and their Wealth, may
+pass, not only for the Capital of a powerful Kingdom, but even for the
+Capital of _Europe_: _That City_, where True Liberty bears Rule; where the
+Arts and Sciences are cultivated and protected; where the Inhabitants
+enjoy the Goods of Fortune without vain Ostentation; where Merit is
+considered, and Birth highly valued, when ’tis accompanied with Virtue:
+_That City_, in fine, where are still to be found those _Roman_ Souls,
+which other Nations admire, but know not how to imitate.
+
+Yet _London_, with all the Attributes I have now given it, with its
+magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane, cannot be rank’d among
+the finest Cities; for many of its Streets being dirty and ill-paved, its
+Houses of Brick, not very high, nor adorn’d with Architecture, but
+blacken’d with the unmerciful Smoke of Coal-fires, gives it a dark Hue,
+which renders it far less agreeable than it would be otherwise.
+
+The Riches of _London_, if not of all _England_, are owing to the
+_Thames_, and the Citizens set more Value by this River, than by any other
+Advantage that they enjoy: Of this a certain old Alderman had the Courage
+to give King _Charles_ II. a convincing Proof, at a Time when that Monarch
+was so extremely angry with the City of _London_, that when the Lord Mayor
+and Aldermen went to Court, with a View to pacify him, he exclaimed
+bitterly against them, and told ’em, that he knew how to make them feel
+the whole Weight of his Resentment, and that he would for that End remove
+his Court to _Oxford_. At this the old Alderman, who pretended to be hard
+of Hearing, said to a Nobleman that was present at the Audience, loud
+enough to be over-heard by the King, _What says his Majesty_, my Lord?
+_Will he in his Wrath take the_ Thames _from us?_ Meaning thereby, that
+since the King could not take that River from the City, the Inhabitants
+would not be sorry for his going to _Oxford_. Indeed, in all my Travels I
+never saw a finer Sight than this River, from its Mouth to
+_London_-Bridge: For besides its being continually covered with Ships,
+Barges, Boats, &c. going up and down with the Tide, its Banks are adorned
+with a Variety of fine Scenes, such as Towns, Villages, and
+Country-Houses. Among others, there’s the great and magnificent Hospital
+of _Greenwich_, founded in the Reign of _Charles_ II. for disabled Seamen,
+or the Invalids of the Navy. Tho’ this Structure is not yet finish’d, it
+may be rank’d amongst the most considerable in _Europe_, and is not
+inferior in Grandeur to many Royal Palaces. Its Situation also is so
+charming, that were it for that alone, it were worth while to take a Turn
+on Purpose to see it.
+
+_London_ stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent.
+The famous Bridge upon which Queen _Elizabeth_ caused the Head of the Earl
+of _Essex_ to be exposed, after having flatter’d him that he should one
+Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp’d by Houses on both Sides,
+which are neither fine nor lofty.
+
+St. _Paul_’s Church, the Cathedral of _London_, is, next to St. _Peter_’s
+at _Rome_, the greatest and most stately Temple in _Europe;_ and I even
+question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. _Peter_’s, if
+it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only
+the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar’d. The
+principal Front of St. _Paul_’s is of that sort of Architecture which the
+old _Romans_, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have
+thought unworthy of their Time; tho’ ’tis certain this beautiful Front is
+render’d the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very
+_Gothic_ Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This
+whole Fabric stands by itself, and is built in the Form of a Cross, with
+a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos
+on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the principal Front there’s an
+Area, encompass’d with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white
+marble Statue of Queen _Anne_, in whose Reign this Church was finish’d;
+which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of
+_Charles_ II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her
+Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but ’tis so much like a
+Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an[123] _Amende
+honorable_: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it
+represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of
+_London_, by whose Order ’twas erected. All the Church is of very white
+Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of _London_, has rendered black on one
+Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome
+only is painted of an _Ash_ Colour. The Choir (for the Church of _England_
+retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just
+such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the
+Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or
+Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they assist at _Te Deum_, are
+of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The
+subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain Vaults, in which
+are interred such People as they belong to.
+
+The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which
+consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King _Charles_ II. is a
+very lofty Pillar of the _Doric_ Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in
+the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence
+there’s a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes.
+
+The _Royal-Exchange_, where the Merchants meet at One o’Clock every Day,
+is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned
+with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of
+it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the
+Statues of the Kings that have reigned in _England_; which are of
+Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King _Charles_ II. in
+whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and
+is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a _Roman_
+Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in _London_; where indeed
+Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can’t conceive;
+since most of the _English_ Nobility have been in _Italy_, and have there
+acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious.
+
+The famous Tower of _London_, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this
+Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the _Thames_, at the Extremity of the
+City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without
+Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself,
+Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the Arsenal of Arms; and in
+this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro’ good
+Fortune, the Reign of King _George_ II. now upon the Throne, has been so
+free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners.
+
+As one goes up the _Thames_ towards St. _James_’s, End of the Town, where
+the King and most of the Nobility reside, one passes along by a Palace
+called the _Savoy_, because it was built by the Princes of _Savoy_, Uncles
+of Queen _Eleanor_ of _Provence_, Wife to _Henry_ III. This Building has
+nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The
+Chamber is still to be seen here in which _John_ II. King of _France_ was
+imprisoned, who, like _Regulus_, came and re-delivered himself into the
+Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not
+disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which
+were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to _France_.
+
+The Palace of _Whitehall_, which is the common Landing-place for People
+that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly
+before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of
+_William_ and _Mary_. There’s a Pile of Building yet standing, which is
+magnificent, and is called the _Banquetting-House_. I was here shewn the
+very Window which the unfortunate _Charles_ I. came out of, when the
+Usurper _Cromwel_ made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the
+Buildings called by the Name of _Whitehall_, are now in the Hands of
+private Owners, by Grants of the late King _George_ I.
+
+St. _James_’s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from
+_Whitehall_ by St. _James_’s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable
+to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes
+in _Europe_ worse lodged than the King of _England_. I have been assured,
+that the Nation offered the late King _George_ I. to build him a new
+Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his
+Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he
+thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for
+the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of
+Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was
+more urgent, and more useful.
+
+St. _James_’s Park is the same Thing here as the _Thuilleries_ are at
+_Paris_; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow
+Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Canal in the middle of the whole. Mean
+time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ’d, tho’
+the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. _Charles_
+II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make
+Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to _Paris_ for the
+famous _Le Neautre_, the Man that laid out the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, and the Park at _Versailles_. But this _Frenchman_, after
+having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did,
+assuring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The
+grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but
+especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in
+it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of
+the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or
+Character, to walk there at the same Time with ’em; for which Reason the
+Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the
+most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear
+here in rich Dresses; for the _English_, who Twenty Years ago did not wear
+Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb’d as much as
+the _French_; I speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still
+contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine
+Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don’t
+make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere.
+
+Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of _Marlborough_ and
+_Buckingham_ are the most considerable. The former is very richly
+furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. ’Tis occupied by the
+Dowager of that great Duke of _Marlborough_, who led the _English_ to
+triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble.
+
+_Buckingham_ House is not so big as _Marlborough_ House, but infinitely
+better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. _James_’s Park, and is
+only separated from it by Grates of Iron. ’Tis one grand Building, with
+two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of
+the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle
+of the Court there’s a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and
+magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Canal, which was
+actually begun, but remains unfinish’d. This fine House is occupied by the
+Duchess Dowager of _Buckingham_, a natural Daughter of King _James_ II.
+
+St. _James_’s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of _London_ in
+general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and
+want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that
+cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that _Lewis_
+XIV. offered _Charles_ II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave _London_,
+provided _Charles_ would furnish him with Gravel from _England_, to lay in
+the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true, I know not; but
+it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the _English_
+Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and _London_ is
+still the Sufferer for want of it.
+
+There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my
+Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning
+them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving
+them. As these are encompassed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much
+like Church-yards. St. _James_’s Square is the most considerable in
+_London_, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of
+the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece
+of Water, surrounded with an iron Balustrade. Three Sides of this Square
+are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the
+fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this
+Square live the Earl of _Strafford_, Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_; and the Duke of _Norfolk_, a _Roman_ Catholic, Earl
+Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of _England_, Chief of the
+Illustrious Family of _Howard_; from whence was descended _Catharine_ the
+Fifth Wife of _Henry_ VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the
+unfortunate _Anne Bullen_, who preceded her. The Duke of _Norfolk_’s House
+here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures.
+
+_Grosvenor_’s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St.
+_James_’s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle
+of the Garden is the Statue of King _George_ I. on Horseback, of Lead,
+gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in
+_London_, the best is that of _Charles_ I. represented on Horseback in
+Brass. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper
+_Cromwell_ having caused it to be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a
+Founder, who happen’d to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it
+under Ground, till the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to whom he made a
+Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at _Charing-Cross_,
+where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image
+that has escap’d the Fury of the _Iconoclastes_.
+
+Since, the Accession of the _Hanover_ Family to the Throne of _Great
+Britain_, _London_ is infinitely larger than it was. There’s one intire
+Quarter goes by the Name of _Hanover_. The Parliament being apprehensive,
+that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself,
+pass’d an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new
+Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would
+nevertheless have been too large.
+
+I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to
+give you a general Idea of _London_, and not a very exact Plan, that being
+a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed.
+Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you
+with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to
+Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of _Montagu_, Son-in-Law to the
+late Duke of _Marlborough_, is the most considerable. The Apartments are
+large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly
+those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of _Phaethon_
+is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are
+not furnish’d, and ’tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House
+to the Count _de Montijo_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador.
+
+Of the modern Churches that of St. _James_, which is the Parochial Church
+of the Court, is the finest, having a Portico before it, supported by
+Columns, after the Manner of the _Rotunda_ at _Rome_.
+
+The Abby Church of _Westminster_, in which the Kings are crown’d and
+interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings,
+and other Persons illustrious either for their Birth or Merit. _Henry_ the
+VIIth’s Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very
+magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of _Newcastle_. That of the
+late Mr. _Craggs_, who was Secretary of State to King _George_ the Ist, is
+plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the
+_Grecian_ Manner, and leaning in a very noble Attitude upon an Urn. The
+famous _St. Evremont_ has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The
+Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a
+short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his
+Friend my Lord _Galloway_.
+
+Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is
+one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the
+Stone which served for _Jacob_’s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious
+Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much
+neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that
+pious King _James_ II. The _English_ would do well to make a Present of it
+to the Republic of _Venice_, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with
+the Piece of _Moses_’s Rock in St. _Mark_’s Church. The Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ shew’d me a Piece of it, when I was last at _Rome_: He told
+me, that he stole it in his Return from _Portugal_, where he had been
+Ambassador, when he came to _London_ with a Commission from the Emperor to
+King _George_ I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty
+of in his Life; and that he should have been exceeding scrupulous of
+committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour’d in _England_ as it
+deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help
+filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a
+Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen’d to be looking
+another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been
+so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had
+given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece;
+and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole
+Stone. O Lord! cry’d the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish
+then I had purchased it.
+
+In _Westminster_ Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which _Edward_ I. that
+proud Conqueror of _Scotland_, caused to be brought from the Abbey of
+_Scoon_ to that of _Westminster_, in order to give the _Scots_ to
+understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country.
+Ever since that Time the Kings of _England_ have made it a Rule to be
+seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation.
+
+The Palace of _Westminster_, tho’ formerly noted for the Residence of the
+Kings, and now for the Assembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain.
+The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one
+of the largest in _Europe_.
+
+The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not
+much ornamented, nor is the King’s Throne in it at all magnificent: They
+say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an
+Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of
+_Great Britain_ being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august
+Body in the Universe.
+
+When the King goes to meet his Parliament, ’tis with all the Splendor of
+Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress’d in Royal
+Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King
+of _France_, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac’d in a Corner,
+with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of _Wales_ alone,
+as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers
+sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet
+had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the
+late King his Father there; and I assure you, that the Sight of this
+august Assembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don’t
+know that I was ever impress’d with before. When I saw that King, the Best
+and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal Assent to what the Peers
+of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I
+thought I saw _Augustus_ in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the
+Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless
+the Parliament does not always applaud the King’s Measures; but on the
+contrary makes a noble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon
+the public Liberty. ’Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which
+depriv’d the _Stuart_ Family of the Throne, the Kings and their
+Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the
+Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he
+finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant.
+All that find Fault with the _English_ for Disaffection to their Kings,
+have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who
+think a King of _Great Britain_ is to be pity’d because he is not
+absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A Monarch of _England_ is
+capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no
+Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this
+Expression, ’tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What
+needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man
+can be pitied, because ’tis not in his Power to make Millions of People
+miserable? For my part, I think that the _English_, who do not stand up
+for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who
+oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is
+once established.
+
+What I admire in the _English_, is not only the Firmness with which they
+plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we
+see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their
+Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An _Englishman_, on the
+contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what
+the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the
+State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish’d and
+far-fetch’d, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and
+enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true
+_English_ Nobleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his
+Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him:
+He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose
+the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King
+has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being
+solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An
+_Englishman_ who should write such Letters as _Bussi Rabutin_ wrote to
+_Lewis_ XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised in _England_, as
+_Bussi_ was esteemed in _France_. They that are out of Favour, are not
+shunn’d here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being
+abandoned by their Friends, that a Nobleman has often a greater Levee in
+his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can’t but
+think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is
+sometimes push’d too far. I have been told, _a propos_, that Queen
+_Catharine_ of _Portugal_, Wife of _Charles_ II. having forbad a certain
+Lady to come to Court, for having behav’d in a Manner that gave Offence,
+the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she assured
+her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again,
+’till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen
+was dead, and exposed to View at _Westminster_.
+
+His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D----ess of _Q----y_
+to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that
+Lady’s Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign’d
+his Employment of V----e A----l of _Sc----d_, and absented himself from
+Court; but the D----ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as
+ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only
+shunn’d here for being a Criminal, or a Coward.
+
+There’s no King serv’d with greater Respect than a King of _Great
+Britain_: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very
+numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his
+Court is always very much throng’d; and in short, he wants nothing of the
+Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable
+for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and
+responsible to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong.
+
+The present King is not tall, but very well shap’d, has a stately Port, a
+very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The
+_French_, _English_, and the _Italian_ Languages are as familiar to him as
+the _German_. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear
+the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur,
+he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an Œconomist,
+without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a
+Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively
+Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the
+other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a
+quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of
+_Hanover_, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the _Netherlands_ at the
+Battles of _Oudenarde_ and _Malplaquet_; as Prince of _Wales_, he shew’d
+that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he
+makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His
+People are happy under his Reign. In _England_ his only Study is to
+maintain the Peace and Balance of _Europe_, to make Commerce flourish, and
+to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At _Hanover_
+he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their
+Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his
+Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of
+their Kings, his _Britannic_ Majesty may hope for one of the longest of
+Reigns.
+
+The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges
+Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic,
+but accompany’d with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most
+courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is
+adorn’d with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look’d upon all the
+trifling Amusements of her Sex with Disdain; and particularly never
+affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one
+of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the
+most learned Princesses in _Europe_. Having lost the Margrave of
+_Brandenburg Anspach_ her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother
+the Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_ marrying again to _John George_ IV.
+Elector of _Saxony_, she was left under the Guardianship of _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenburg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_; by which means she
+spent Part of her early Days at the Court of _Berlin_, where the
+Electoress, who was Sister to the late King _George_ I. gave her a
+Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime
+Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach’d her. The
+young Princess of _Anspach_ had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and
+the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of _Charles_ III. King of
+_Spain_, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But
+the Princess was so strongly attach’d to her Religion, that she refused
+both. God reserv’d her, no doubt, to make _Great Britain_ happy, and she
+married the Electoral Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. Not many Years
+after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her
+Father-in-Law and her Husband call’d to the Possession of one of the chief
+Thrones in the World. I was then at _Hanover_, and will venture to assure
+you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their
+Greatness with a Moderation which render’d them worthy of their Fortune;
+and the Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly
+satisfy’d in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that
+both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye,
+because they so highly deserved that Title. When she became Princess of
+_Wales_, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which
+then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her,
+and she in return paid him very great Respect. And[124]now that she is
+Queen, her Majesty contributes all that’s in her Power to make the
+Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the
+Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence.
+
+Among the Joys of their _Britannic_ Majesties we ought to reckon the
+numerous Family with which Heaven has bless’d ’em. It consists of two
+Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and Title of
+Prince of _Wales_, tho’ he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when
+among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish’d to be the chief Personage. He
+is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said
+of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous.
+He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating
+Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is
+Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is
+perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing
+that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The _Hanoverians_, among whom he
+was educated, ador’d him, and the _English_ seem altogether as fond of
+him.
+
+The young Duke of _Cumberland_, second Son to their Majesties, resembles
+what the Painters represent to us by the Name of _Cupid_. He has Sense
+infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He
+speaks _English_, _High-Dutch_, _Latin_, and _French_; and I think more
+than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen
+Years of Age[125].
+
+Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other
+two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the
+_Princess Royal_[126], has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty
+and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as
+engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all
+Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of
+good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to
+Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing;
+and they say, she is generous and beneficent. ’Tis a Pleasure to see her
+on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the
+Virtues becoming her high Birth.
+
+The Princesses _Amelia_ and _Caroline_, were they not the most shining
+Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot
+fail in time of making some Prince or other happy.
+
+With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter,
+which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks
+without Delay. In the mean time be assured, that I am always with an
+inviolable Attachment, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _London, May 4, 1733._
+
+The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court.
+The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that
+Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don’t
+seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of
+unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve
+to fatigue it.
+
+’Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their
+Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to
+send in one’s Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty’s Lord
+Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen’s Master of the Horse.
+People go to the King’s Levee, and the Queen’s Drawing-Room, as they do in
+_France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none
+eat with ’em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square,
+in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_
+on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service
+here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is
+plac’d in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very
+Cieling, which are fill’d with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same
+Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at Court. Three times
+a Week there’s an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is
+open’d at Ten o’Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the
+said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the
+Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St.
+_James_’s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who
+is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters.
+Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they
+are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy
+to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal,
+and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little
+before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there’s no
+Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the
+Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_’s Park, or
+the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most
+part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which
+Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal
+_Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV.
+began to build; was reckon’d the finest Palace in _Europe_.
+
+The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his
+Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT
+WALPOLE is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_
+that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not
+less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary
+Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of
+_Europe_; where ’tis confess’d to be owing to his Direction that the
+Cabinet of St. _James_’s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and
+that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all
+Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended
+with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho’ admir’d by the
+whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly
+valued in his own Country, which he crown’d with Glory and Prosperity. I
+shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman’s private Character,
+because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business
+with him, I see him pass along; and that’s all. I want some Neutral Man
+(that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that
+knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so
+fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights
+as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk’d of in Public as one that
+understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who
+thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom
+nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there’s no Man more
+bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true
+Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament;
+where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass’d; and the
+Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.
+
+His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of
+Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know,
+was for a long time Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_,
+and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign’d the
+Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when
+the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at
+which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in
+Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_
+I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him
+with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his
+constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny’d
+that his Lordship behav’d with very great Prudence in the Changes that
+happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This
+Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I
+made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul’d by the Duke of
+_Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that
+Duke. “He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom
+with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all
+the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we
+had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress;
+that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could
+happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him,
+that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and
+but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the
+Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach
+myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an
+Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the
+Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me
+was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_
+Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To
+which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that
+I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in
+Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him.” In the same Conversation
+the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the
+profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when
+Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and
+Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the
+Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he
+has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no
+great Expence.
+
+The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely
+civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs,
+in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel
+_Stanhope_, gain’d Reputation as Ambassador in _Spain_, and at the
+Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can
+vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the
+World. He is good-natur’d, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy
+of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will
+like him.
+
+I don’t think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so
+haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think,
+that they who say the _English_ are not civil to Foreigners, have not been
+very conversant with ’em. ’Tis true, they are not so engaging as the
+_French_; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and
+courts their Favour, in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil
+as any other People in the World. An _Englishman_ won’t be saying at every
+Turn, _That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has
+the Honour to say, to hear_, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps
+once in a Conversation, and that’s all; nor, on the other hand, does he
+want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows.
+As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as
+frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the
+_English_ are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly
+all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their
+Travels to _France_, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come
+into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they
+have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire.
+
+There are some _English_ People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget
+the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage
+to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and
+ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was
+convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper,
+which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast
+is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take
+Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself,
+and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In
+short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I
+shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me,
+that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People,
+’tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them
+understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don’t care to speak foreign
+Languages; and when they do, ’tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now
+Constraint is what the _English_ don’t at all like; for as they enjoy the
+greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to
+every Thing which cramps it.
+
+Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what
+the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so
+much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the
+Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not
+following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these
+two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by
+several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the
+one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great
+a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it
+seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom,
+and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don’t surfeit
+themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and
+which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my
+Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a
+complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled
+to the Manners and Customs of the _English_.
+
+A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a
+Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho’ they differ widely
+in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their
+Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho’ _London_ has not
+such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as
+senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a
+great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion
+and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I
+think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are
+as many at _London_ as at _Paris_.
+
+The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what
+Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter,
+and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to
+prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are
+more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the
+Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St.
+_Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of
+Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of
+_England_. We don’t hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are
+committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here
+than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given
+them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to
+give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. ’Tis
+inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their
+Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I
+give you the following, because I think ’twas very well contrived.
+
+As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely
+bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of
+the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale,
+where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach,
+said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; ’tis worth a hundred Pieces
+between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood
+his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his
+Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing
+that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him,
+that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so
+that my Lord could not recover his Money.
+
+As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much
+more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder
+near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon
+the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe,
+he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he
+sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came
+hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They
+gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he
+was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were
+just going to condemn him, when he ask’d them, At what o’Clock the Murder
+was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to
+think_, said he, _that ’twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of
+which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place
+where ’twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to
+be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty.
+Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask’d him
+privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise
+to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.
+
+I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you,
+that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their
+Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There
+are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is
+condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or
+Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank
+with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than
+twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found.
+The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be
+agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed
+Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but
+two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which
+the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.
+
+It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as
+humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions;
+as if ’twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that ’twas not enough to
+take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one
+Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.
+
+The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason
+of the Courage with which most of ’em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw
+five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well
+pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not
+performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not
+that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes
+a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows
+here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of
+it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the
+Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull
+him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without
+Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least
+of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.
+
+’Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be
+intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of
+that Contempt of Life; yet we can’t help admiring it in the _Romans_, from
+whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End
+to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but
+too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well
+as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters
+from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang’d themselves
+at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought
+unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not
+apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror.
+Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for
+such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other
+Nations don’t seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the
+_English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one
+rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the
+_English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater
+Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?
+
+A great many of ’em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if
+I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be
+for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty
+and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and
+such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho’ not universally pleasing, yet
+captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I
+should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are
+handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to
+pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. ’Tis a Pleasure to see
+them blush. The frankest of ’em retain an Air of Modesty, which would
+persuade one, that they don’t affect to be wicked. They are commonly very
+richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies,
+which is the only Fault that I find with ’em. They seem to affect Dressing
+to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves,
+which don’t reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no
+Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat
+Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and
+monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and ’tis as rare to
+see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a
+full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_
+a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in
+their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set
+themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should
+be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and
+Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country,
+which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good
+Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of
+the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is
+very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill
+becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I
+believe ’tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning
+Virtue.
+
+The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give
+and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being
+seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most
+Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks,
+Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved,
+have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their
+Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly
+of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look’d upon one
+another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other
+Place where there’s a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue
+stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn
+out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in
+form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and
+in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take
+the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind
+to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble
+themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and
+of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their
+Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here
+than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great
+deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_’s Love for
+_Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country.
+
+The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have
+known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought
+_London_ too dull a Place for ’em to live in. Others would argue with me,
+that there’s more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related
+to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have
+given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be
+taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify’d_ or _Italianized
+Englishmen_, and me.
+
+A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a
+Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the
+other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee,
+has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium
+betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the
+Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes
+his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body’d Coat,
+without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword
+at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly
+the Place he walks to, because ’tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There
+he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes
+home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or
+Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for ’tis a sort
+of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this
+Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often
+look at one another, without opening their Lips; and ’tis very well they
+are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other
+Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no
+hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in
+St. _James_’s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time,
+is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes,
+and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs
+nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o’Clock, they go to
+Court, to the King’s Levee, and from thence to the Queen’s Apartment,
+where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three
+o’Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are
+very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private
+Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at
+the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a
+Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don’t drink the same Sort, with
+Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the
+Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he
+pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always
+drink too much, because they sit too long at it.
+
+When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out
+again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or
+else on Foot to St. _James_’s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till
+the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate
+Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera’s or
+Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative,
+sometimes at one Lord’s House, and sometimes at another’s, or else they
+repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies
+formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded
+by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after
+what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse
+himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who
+say that this City is too melancholy for ’em, only say so to give
+themselves an Air.
+
+At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy
+as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each
+Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason
+that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance
+of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love
+with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and
+in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together
+make very good Fare. There’s one Custom established in these Houses, which
+to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man’s
+Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a
+Kiss, which tho’ but a very modest one, ’tis a Pleasure to see a Colour
+come into the Lady’s Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second
+Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has
+been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House:
+And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House
+at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four
+times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would
+serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_
+keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay
+their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of
+their Class in the World.
+
+The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there’s the best of
+Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the
+Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and
+dirty.
+
+The Assemblies here are so throng’d, that there’s hardly any stirring.
+Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables.
+Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm
+of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass
+mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another’s Health; but ’tis
+in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.
+
+The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at
+the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw
+a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand
+in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated
+with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable,
+besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous
+Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely
+illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there’s Play.
+The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform’d by the ablest Musicians
+in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these
+Balls the Company are often mask’d, and then the King and the Prince of
+_Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses
+are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well
+dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for
+there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The
+_English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a
+time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives
+Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are
+so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the
+_French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_.
+
+As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of ’em than any
+other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most
+magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea
+for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though ’tis always crouded,
+yet it won’t defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the
+Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant;
+but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is
+_Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents
+in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one
+_Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression,
+but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think
+his Music not so affecting as ’tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine,
+and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_.
+The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form
+Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good
+Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax
+candles. There’s Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque
+Interlude.
+
+Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there’s an _English_ one, where they sing
+only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than
+when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or
+beating himself.
+
+The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has
+been severely criticiz’d by the _French_, who say, ’tis not comparable to
+theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very
+gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my
+Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the
+_French_ are too much cramp’d by their Rules, and the _English_ not
+enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste,
+the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho’ the _English_ are not
+such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of
+Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much
+prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own
+Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces,
+where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of
+_Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has
+had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed
+by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom
+of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was
+a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.
+
+The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in
+which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner
+very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare
+with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and
+their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not
+the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all
+the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_
+does with Falcons.
+
+The Swiftness of the _English_ Horses is the Reason that there are
+Horse-Races every Year at a Place called _Newmarket_; and this really is
+what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several
+Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in _Italy_.
+They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend
+which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of
+them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without
+a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with
+’em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds
+Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of
+_Plutus_, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to
+be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him.
+Such is the Custom of the _English_, who not only pay those handsomely who
+contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be
+seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such
+Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that
+play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have
+also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer
+has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then
+taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a
+Favourite of the Town, as Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for
+whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than
+they shall make use of, for the Party’s Encouragement. This Generosity of
+the _English_ towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a
+particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing
+too fine, nor too dear. Thus, ’tis not to Assiduity that they are willing
+to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and
+their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abbés of _Rome_,
+of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress.
+
+These Abbés put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called _Chaplains_,
+whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the
+Reformation of the Church of _England_, their Revenues were not very much
+impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know
+not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the
+same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine,
+that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the _English_ are subject
+to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the
+Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. ’Tis said that
+they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform
+Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead
+of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that
+extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which
+commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you
+of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the
+_English_ Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals,
+Prize-fighters, Wrestlers, and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that
+contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and
+Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the _English_ are descended
+from _Mutius Scævola_, because, like that _Roman_, they despise Pain.
+Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with
+Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. _James_’s
+Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many
+Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped
+himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this
+State of Nature he travers’d along the Mall, thro’ an infinite Concourse
+of People. The Ladies, astonish’d at such a Sight, knew not how to keep
+their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces
+with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him
+pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths,
+near _Whitehall_, where he left ’em; and as he had won the Wager,
+abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him
+Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur’d and happy as the
+_English_.
+
+Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the
+Parties they make for the Country. This the _English_ set a great Value
+upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very
+beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always
+a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the
+Country the _English_ live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at
+_London_ they live for most part like mere private Men.
+
+Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of _London_,
+particularly along the _Thames_. I cannot conceive how a Native of
+_England_, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to
+leave these Regions, as a great many _English_ nevertheless do, who prefer
+Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I
+confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in _England_, I
+would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the
+Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so
+troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, ’tis for this Cause
+that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape
+does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is
+supplied by the Grapes of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are imported here
+in Abundance.
+
+One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the
+happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and
+well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain
+Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination
+which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who
+makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv’d by him as his Equal, without being
+made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the
+Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here;
+for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of
+Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them.
+
+The Great Men here, as well as in _France_, don’t scruple to marry Women
+of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made
+between the _English_ Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The
+_English_ are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom,
+and we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage,
+when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of
+their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant’s Daughter, she
+sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish’d Family; whereas
+in _France_, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian.
+
+These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I
+wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I
+may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean
+time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly
+persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                         An Alphabetical INDEX
+
+                                 TO THE
+
+                             SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+          A
+
+  _Abbés_, _Italian_, 69, 70.
+    Five or six club for one Mistress, 469.
+
+  _Abbesses_ that preach’d, bless’d and confess’d, 195.
+
+  _Academy, French._
+    Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour,
+        266, 267.
+
+  _Acquaviva_, Cardinal, 4, 44, 55.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Pr. of, 136.
+
+  _Acunha, Lewis de_, 406.
+
+  _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, 49.
+
+  _Agnus Dei_’s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and
+      Consecration, 99, _&c._
+
+  _Agrippa_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, 332.
+
+  _Aignan_, (_St._) Duke _de_, 85, 123.
+
+  AIX LA CHAPELLE, _t._ 327.
+    Reliques exposed there, 329.
+
+  _Aix_ Parliament.
+    The _Jansenists_ with the Members hang’d, 194.
+    An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than _Pilate_, _ibid._
+
+  _Alacoque Maria_, made a Saint by a Bishop, 202.
+
+  _Alais_, Count de, 217.
+
+  _Albano_ Cardinal, 15, 16, 37, 78, 88.
+
+  ---- Painter, 359.
+
+  _Albemarle_, Earl and Countess, 407, 408.
+
+  _Alberoni_’s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of
+      Churches, 75.
+    _Clement_ XIth’s Design to deprive him of the Hat, 88.
+
+  _Albert_, Archduke of _Austria_, 313.
+
+  _Albert the Great_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, 327.
+
+  _Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Albin, St._ Abbé of, 291.
+
+  _Alcmaer_, t. 392.
+
+  _Alegre_, Marshal, 339.
+
+  _Alexander Farnese_, 39.
+
+  _Alexander_ VI. Pope, 97.
+
+  ALEXANDRIA _de la Paille_, t. 151.
+
+  _Aliberti_, Count, his Theatre, 65.
+
+  _Alincourt_, Marquis _de_, 174, 175.
+    Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of _Lyons_, 175, 176.
+
+  _Almanza_ Victory, to what ascrib’d, 259.
+
+  _Alstein_, a _German_ Minister, 382.
+
+  _Altelli_, General of the _Corsicans_, 150.
+
+  _Alva_, Duke of, 317.
+
+  _Ambiorix_, King, 321.
+
+  _Ambrun_, Council of, 240.
+
+  _Amelia_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Amende honorable_, Punishment, what, 433.
+
+  _Amerongen_, Brigadier _de_.
+    The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life,
+        320.
+
+  AMSTERDAM, _t._ 317, 371.
+
+  _Anabaptist_, _Dutch_, his Zeal for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  ANDERNACH, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Angelo, Michael_, 33, 37.
+
+  _St. Angelo_, Castle, 31.
+
+  _Angervilliers_, M. _de_, 238, 239.
+
+  _Anne_ of _Austria_, 198.
+
+  ---- of _Bavaria_, the Palatine, 218.
+
+  ---- Queen of _England_, Reflection on her Statue at St. _Paul_’s, 433.
+
+  ---- Princess Royal of _England_, 448.
+
+  _Anna Maria Frances_ of _Saxe-Lawenburg_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Antin_, Duke of, 188, 199.
+    His Son, 226.
+
+  _Antonine_ Pillar, 3.
+
+  _Antoninus Caracalla_, Emperor, 38.
+
+  _Antoninus_ and _Faustina_’s Temple at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  ANTWERP, _t._ 317.
+
+  _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, 338.
+
+  _Archduchess_, Governess of the _Netherlands_, 299, to 302, 304.
+
+  _Ardicinio_, Cardinal, 87.
+
+  _Aremberg_, Duke _de_, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces
+      in the _Austrian Netherlands_) 297, 298, 299, 306.
+
+  _Argenson_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, 210, 236, 245, 385.
+
+  _Armagnac_, M. _de_, 251.
+
+  _Armand_ his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Armenonville_, M. _de_, 236.
+
+  _Arno_, R. 141.
+
+  _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister, 132.
+
+  _Asfeldt_, Baron _de_, 339.
+
+  _Asperen_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Assassins_, Sanctuary at _Rome_, 75, 76.
+
+  _Assemblies_, at _Rome_, 69, 70, 71.
+
+  _Astalli_, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of
+      his Hat, 93 to 95.
+
+  ASTI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Astrologer_, _Turkish_, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father,
+      Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, 140.
+
+  _Athlone_, Earl of, 366.
+
+  _Aubigny_, _Theodore de_, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author,
+      264.
+
+  ---- _Frances de_, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness _de
+      Maintenon_, 262 to 265.
+      Her Family, 264.
+
+  _Audenarde_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Audiences_, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, 55, _&c._
+
+  _August_, Snow in that Month, 13.
+
+  _Augustus_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  ---- King of _Poland_. The Countess of _Wartemberg_’s Attack upon him,
+      410.
+
+  _Auricular Confession_, why abolish’d throughout the _East_, 195.
+
+  _Author_, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, 286,
+      _&c._
+    ---- At what Age he could like to be a _Frenchman_, and at what an
+        _Englishman_, 455.
+    ---- His Father’s Death, 321.
+
+  _Auverquerque, Maurice_, Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  AUXERRE, _t._ 183.
+
+  _Ayrolles_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+
+          B
+
+  _Bacharach_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Baden_, Princess, marry’d to the Duke of _Orleans_, 206.
+    Treaty there, 255.
+    How Prince _Lewis_ was surpriz’d by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  _Bagnolet_ Village, 206.
+
+  _Baker_ castrated by his jealous Wife, 183.
+
+  _Balbi, James_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, 146.
+
+  _Balls_ at the _Haymarket_, magnificent, 465.
+
+  _Banchieri_, Cardinal, 16, 18, 44, 54, 112.
+
+  _Bank Bills_, French, 245 to 248.
+
+  ---- Of _Amsterdam_, 380.
+
+  _Barberini_ Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, 7.
+
+  ---- Cardinal, 15, 78, 96.
+
+  ---- Palace, 40, 64.
+
+  _Barcelona_ reduc’d, 257.
+
+  _Bareith_, Prince of, 404.
+
+  _Baron_, a _French_ Comedian and Coxcomb, 200.
+
+  _Barre, John_, his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Barricades_ of _Paris_ erected, 283.
+
+  _Bavaria_, Elector of, 214, 303.
+
+  _Beaufort_, Count _de_, 323.
+
+  _Beaujolois_, Mademoiselle _de_, 208.
+
+  _Becker_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 363.
+
+  _Belisarius_’s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Belle-Isle_, Count _de_, 210, 217, 227.
+
+  _Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 26. His Credulity abus’d by the Cardinals,
+      particularly _Coscia_; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to
+      30.
+    A Reflection on his Ministers, 114.
+
+  _Benefices_, Instances of Pluralities, 337, 342.
+
+  _Benefit-Nights_ at the Theatre, 468.
+
+  BENSBERG, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, 4, 13, 14, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about _Parma_, 120.
+    Death and Successor, 130.
+
+  ---- Marquis, 14.
+
+  _Berg_, Country, 361.
+
+  _Bernini Lorenzo_, Architect, 6, 8.
+
+  ---- The Sculptor, 9, 34, 48, 101.
+
+  _Berry_, Duke of, 206.
+
+  _Berwic, James_, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to
+      259.
+    His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of _France_,
+        258, 259.
+    His Death and Successor, 259.
+    His great Aversion to the _English_, and Ingratitude to the King of
+        _Spain_, 258, 259.
+
+  _Beverwert_, M. _de_, 401.
+
+  _Bichi_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  BINGEN, _t._ 352.
+
+  _Binger-Loch_, a Cascade upon the _Rhine_, 351.
+
+  _Bissi_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _Blanc_, M. _le_, Secretary, 210, 227, 238.
+
+  _Blaspiel_, Baron and Baroness _de_, 363, 364.
+
+  _Bleickert_ Wine, 348.
+
+  _Blood Divine_, suck’d by the Pope, 21.
+
+  _Bodies Human_, a Thought concerning them, 272.
+
+  _Boerhaave_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Boetselaars_, 412.
+
+  _Bois_, Cardinal _de_, 230, 291, 292.
+    Story of his Marriage, 293.
+    His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, 294, 295.
+    His Tomb, and Remark upon it, 295.
+
+  BOLOGNA, _t._ 129, _&c._
+
+  _Bolognetti_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  ---- Countess, 69.
+
+  _Boniface_ VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, 86.
+
+  BONN, _t._ 337.
+
+  _Bonnet_, (_St._) an Officer, 338.
+
+  _Bookselling Trade_, the Centre of it, 386.
+
+  _Bookbinder_ and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to 273.
+
+  _Bork_, M. _de_, 363.
+
+  _Borghese_, Prince, his Palace, 46, 48, 49.
+    His Family the Favourites of St. _Peter_, 47.
+
+  _Borghese, Scipio_, Cardinal, 47, 48, 49.
+
+  _Borgia_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _---- Casar_, Duke _de Valentinois_, his Contrivance to poison a
+      Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, 97, 98.
+
+  _Borgo_, Marquis _del_, 157, 161.
+
+  _Bossu_, Cardinal _de_, 318.
+
+  _Bot_, General, 362.
+
+  _Boufflers_, Marshal, 253, 315.
+
+  _Bougir_’s House at _Aix la Chapelle_, 331.
+
+  _Bourbon_, Duke of, 182, 186, 207, 290, 291.
+    How he lost an Eye, 208.
+    Made Superintendant of the King’s Education, and Prime Minister, 209,
+        210, 221.
+    Displac’d, 211, 226, 230.
+    His Marriage, 212.
+
+  ---- Duchess of, 216, 217.
+
+  _Brandenburg Anspach_, Margrave, 446.
+
+  _Breteuil_, M. 210, 238, 293.
+
+  _Brignole_, Messieurs, of _Genoa_, 147.
+
+  BRILLE, _t._ 427.
+
+  _Brioche, Swiss_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Brosse_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Brouffel_ arrested by _Anne_ of _Austria_, 283.
+
+  BRUGES, _t._ 312.
+
+  _Bruhl_, Seat of the Elector of _Cologne_, 340.
+
+  _Brunette_, Fort _de la_, 169.
+
+  _Brunswic_, Duchess of, 218.
+
+  _---- Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric_, Duke, 361.
+
+  BRUSSELS, _t._ 298.
+    Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, 308, 317.
+
+  _Brutus_’s Tragedy by _Voltaire_, 265, 266, 467.
+
+  _Bucentaur_ of _Venice_, the Oath taken by her Captain, 315.
+
+  _Buckingham_ House, 437.
+
+  ---- Duchess Dowager, _ib._
+
+  _Bullen, Anne_, Queen, 438.
+
+  _Buonarota, Mich. Angelo_, 6, 24.
+
+  _Buoncompagno_, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy
+      Sepulchre, 29.
+    His Funeral, 107.
+
+  _Burgomasters, Dutch_, 376.
+
+  _Burgundians_, their Character, 182.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Wine, counterfeited, 348.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Duke, his Honour vindicated, 154.
+    How much he is still venerated in _France_, 204.
+
+  _Bussy, Rabutin_’s Letters, 182, 443.
+
+
+          C
+
+  _Cadiere_, Mademoiselle _la_, her Affair with _Girard_ her Father
+      Confessor, 193.
+    Her Recantation of the Charge against him, 194.
+
+  _Cadogan_, Earl and Countess, 409.
+
+  _Calf_, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, 390.
+
+  CAMBRAY, _t._ 291.
+    Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Campagna di Roma_, infested by Locusts, 41.
+
+  _Campo Vaccino_, Square, at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Canals_, _Canards_, and _Canaille_ 428.
+
+  _Canons_, where they have the Title of Counts, 180.
+
+  _Capitol_, of _Rome_, 33.
+
+  _Caponi_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Carache, Annibal_, Painter, 39, 359.
+
+  _Caraffa, John Peter_, Cardinal, 126.
+
+  _Cardinals in Petto_, what, 82.
+    The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, 83.
+    Their Manner of going Abroad, 83, 84.
+    Their Dress, and a Vindication of ’em from Luxury, 84.
+    The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown’d Heads, 85.
+    Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, 86.
+    Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, _ib._
+    How they came to the Title of Eminency, _ib._
+    Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign’d it, 87.
+    Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, 90, 93.
+    Why they always take their own Liquor with them, 97.
+
+  _Carignan_, Prince of, 201.
+
+  _Carlos_, Don, his Journey to _Tuscany_, 139, 233, 318.
+    A Prophecy of _Nostradamus_ apply’d to him, 139.
+
+  _Carnival_, at _Rome_, 64.
+
+  _Caroline_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Carolis_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  _Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee in _Holland_, 429.
+
+  _Carpinetti_, Duke, 42.
+
+  _Casimir, John_ of _Poland_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    King, 336.
+
+  _Cassius, Florus_, 340.
+
+  _Castor_ and _Pollux_, represented by two great Horses, 33.
+
+  _Catharine_, Queen, Wife to _Hen._ VIII. 438.
+    Wife to _Char._ II. threatened by a Lady never to be visited again,
+        till she could be seen for 6 _d._ 444.
+
+  _Catinat_, Marshal de, 252.
+
+  _Cellamare_, Prince of, 180, 222.
+
+  _Cenis_, Mountain, 168, 169, 170.
+
+  _Cevennois_ Rebellion suppressed, how, 253.
+
+  CHALONS, upon the _Saone_, t. 180.
+
+  _Chamber_ of Justice in _France_, 249.
+
+  CHAMBERRY, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Chantilly_, Seat, 290.
+
+  _Chaplains, English_, 469.
+
+  _Charlemagne_, Emperor, 325, 330.
+
+  _Charles Emanuel_ II. of _Savoy_, his finishing a Road on the _Alpes_,
+      which the _Romans_ began, 171.
+
+  _Charles_ V. Emperor, 311, 400.
+    His Declaration about the _Dutch_, 428.
+
+  ---- VI. Emperor. 328.
+    His Addresses to the Princess (the late Queen of _Great Britain_)
+        446.
+
+  _Charles_ I. King of _England_, the Window from which he walk’d to the
+      Scaffold, 435.
+    His Statue. 438.
+
+  ---- II. King of _England_, his Statue, 434.
+    His Menace of the City of _London_, 431.
+    His Design to improve St. _James_’s Park, 436.
+
+  ---- King of _Sardinia_, his dutiful Conduct towards his Father, at and
+      after his Abdication, 155.
+    His Queen, 165.
+
+  _Charni_, Marquis _de_, General, 137.
+
+  _Charolois_, Count _de_, 212 to 217.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  _Charost_, Duke _de_, 226, 227.
+
+  _Chartres_, Duke _de_, 206, 209, 268.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 207.
+
+  _Châtelain_, M. _de_, 383.
+
+  _Chauvelin_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, (just remov’d) 236.
+
+  _Chelles_, Abbess of, 207.
+
+  _Chesterfield_, Earl of, 403.
+
+  _Children_, 365
+    born at once, 425.
+
+  _Chimay_, Prince _de_, 318.
+
+  _Chocolate-house_, in St. _James_’s _street_, 463.
+
+  CHOISY, _t._ 188, 189.
+
+  _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, 11, 25.
+    A cruel Action of hers, 184.
+
+  _Church_, built by a Lottery, 201.
+
+  _Churchill, Arabella_, 257.
+
+  _Cibo_, Cardinal, 143.
+    _Alaric_, ibid.
+
+  _Cicero_’s, in _Italy_, what, 261.
+
+  _Cicisbei_, the Name of those who gallant the _Genoese_ Ladies, 148.
+
+  _Cienfuegos_, Cardinal, 15, 16, 17, 45, 78, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor in the Affair of _Parma_, 120.
+    The Theft he committed in _Westminster_ Abbey, 440.
+
+  _Claude_, of _Lorain_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Clement Augustus_, Elector of _Cologne_, 332, 336, 342.
+    His Revenue, 337.
+    His Brothers, 341.
+    His Aggrandisement asserted to be for the Interest of Popery, 342,
+        343.
+
+  _Clement_ XI. (Pope) his Design against Cardinal _Alberoni_, 88.
+
+  ---- XII. Pope, 6.
+    His Election, 13.
+    Adoration of the Cardinals to him, 17, 18.
+    His Coronation, 19.
+    Our Author’s Audience, 55.
+    His Promotion of Cardinals, 77, 78, 115.
+    His great Age and Ailments, 88.
+    His Severity, 91, 167.
+    General Character, 114.
+    Concern for losing the Duchy of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  ---- _James_, the Assassin, 269.
+
+  _Clermont_, Count _de_, 212, 216.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  CLEVES, _t._ 363.
+
+  _Cloud_, _St._ Duke of, 192.
+    Palace of, 268.
+
+  _Clovis_, King of _France_, 269.
+
+  COBLENTZ, _t._ 349.
+
+  _Coffee-Houses_, much frequented by the _English_, 463.
+
+  _Cologne_, Elector of, 213.
+    City, 332, 336.
+
+  _Colonna_, Cardinal, 15, 42.
+
+  ---- Signior, a Prelate, 122.
+
+  ---- Constable, and Family, 42, 82.
+
+  _Comedies_, _French_ and _Dutch_, 385.
+
+  _Comptroller_ General’s Office in _France_, compar’d to the Post of the
+      _Grand Vizier_, 239.
+
+  _Conclave_, for the Choice of a Pope, 13, 70.
+
+  _Concord_, Temple of, at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  _Conde_, Family, 182, 208.
+    _Hon. Julius_ of _Bourbon_, Prin. 218, _Louisa Benedictina_, Princ.
+        220.
+
+  _Consistories_ of _Rome_, 81.
+
+  _Constantine_, Arch. at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Conti_, Cardinal, 91.
+
+  ---- Family of, 218.
+
+  ---- Princess Dowager of, 188, 217-220.
+
+  ---- _Lewis_ of _Bourbon_, Prince, his Marriage, 208, 217.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle, 209.
+
+  _Cornetto, Adrian_, Cardinal, a Design to poison him, 97.
+
+  _Cornicchini, Augustin_, the Statuary, 9.
+
+  _Coronation_ Chair, of the _English_ Sovereigns, 441.
+
+  _Corpus Christi_, Ceremonies on that Day at _Rome_, 124.
+    and at _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  _Correggio_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Corsica_, Island, more Cost than Worship to the _Genoese_, 150.
+
+  _Corsicans_, call’d the Devils of _Italy_, 143.
+    Their War with the _Genoese_, 149, _&c._
+
+  _Corsini_, Cardinal, 6.
+    His Election to be Pope, 13.
+    His Nephew, _Neri Corsini_, a Cardinal, 19, 78, 119.
+    _Bartholomew_, another, 52, 92.
+    _Philip_, his great Nephew, 44.
+    Character of his Nephews, 119.
+    Mesdames, the Popes Nieces, 69, 103, 104.
+    His Antipathy to Cardinal _Bichi_, 117.
+
+  _Cortona, Peter_, Painter, 40, 359.
+
+  _Coscia_, Cardinal, his Abuse of the Pope’s Credulity, 27, 28.
+    His Bargain with _Ruspoli_’s Father, to get his Son a Cardinal’s Hat,
+        77.
+    Another of his Bargains of that sort, 83.
+    His Treatment by the Popes, 89, 90, 91.
+    His Imprisonment, 91.
+
+  _Cosmo_, I. II. III. Great Dukes of _Tuscany_, 135.
+    Statue of the First, 140.
+
+  _Costa_, Auditor General of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Coster, Laurence_, of _Harlem_, 395.
+
+  _Courland_, Dukes Kettlers, 135, 136.
+
+  COURTRAY, _t._ 313.
+
+  _Craggs_, Secretary, his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Crescens_, St., Disciple of St. _Paul_, 353.
+
+  _Crumpiper, Henry_, 302.
+
+  _Culmbache, Brandenburgh_, Princess of, 307, 404.
+
+  _Cumberland_, (Prince _William_) D. of, 447.
+
+  _Cumiane_, Mademoiselle _de_, 156.
+
+  _Curtius_’s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Cyr, St._ Abbey of, 261.
+
+
+          D
+
+  _Daguesseau_, M. Chancellor, 235, 236.
+
+  _Dalberg_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Damasus_ II. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Dammartin_, Count _de_, 213.
+
+  _Dangeau_, M. _de_, 216.
+
+  _Daphne_’s Metamorphosis, 48.
+
+  _Davia_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _David_ with his Sling, a Statue, 48.
+
+  _Daun_, Marshal, 152, 304.
+
+  _Dauphin_, of _France_, whence that Title, 173.
+
+  _Dauphiné_, 172, 173.
+
+  DELFT, _t._ 400, 425.
+
+  _Denain_, Battle, 251, 404.
+
+  _Denys_, Saint, 192.
+
+  _Devenish_, M. _de_, 314.
+
+  _Devils_ of _Italy_, who, 143.
+
+  _Devos_’s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Dickson_, Colonel, 314.
+
+  DIJON, _t._ 181.
+
+  _Dirce_, her Fable, 38.
+
+  _Dobelstein_, Baron _de_, 331.
+
+  _Dohna_, _Alexander de_, Count, 349.
+
+  ---- _Ferassier de_, Count, 404.
+
+  _Dombes_, Prince of, 221, 224.
+
+  ---- Principality, 179, 180, 220.
+
+  _Doria_, Cardinal, 55, 91, 116.
+
+  ---- General, 147.
+
+  _Ducks_, in abundance, 418.
+
+  DUISBOURG, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Dulis_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Dunbar_, Lord, his Station at the Pretender’s Court, 58.
+    His Marriage of Princess _Sobleski_ by Proxy, 62.
+
+  _Duncan_, M. _de_, 407.
+
+  _Dunchstein_, Mineral Water, 349.
+
+  DUSSELDORF, _t_ 358.
+
+  _Dutch_, vindicated from Treachery, 368, 428.
+    Their common Food, 372.
+    Their Coffee-houses, and Comedies, 385.
+    Assemblies, 386.
+    Dress, 390.
+    Lasses, 393.
+
+  _Dyck, Van_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          E
+
+  ECHELLES, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Edward_ I. King of _England_, the Trophy he brought from _Scotland_,
+      of his Conquest, 441.
+
+  _Egmont_, Count, the Prince of _Orange_’s Farewell of him, 453.
+
+  ---- Palace in _Brussels_, 299.
+
+  _Elbeue, de_, Commandeur, the _Tuscan_ Minister, 131, 134.
+
+  _Eleanor_, of _Toledo_, Gr. Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  ---- of _Provence_, Wife to K. _Hen._ III. 435.
+
+  _Eminency_, how that Title came to the Cardinals, 86.
+
+  _Emperors, German_, their Manner of giving Audience, 215.
+
+  ENCKHUISEN, _t._ 392.
+
+  _England_’s Kings, their Power and Court, 442, 443, 444.
+    Its Soil and Climate, 470, 471.
+
+  _Englishmen_, said to be better Abroad than at Home, 326.
+    Their Manners, 453, _&c._ 463.
+    The Dress of the Courtier and the Citizen, 436, 437, 460.
+    Genius of the Nation, 442, 462.
+    Vindicated from Disaffection to their Kings, 442.
+    Applauded for defending their Rights, 443.
+    Their friendly, tho’ melancholy Tempers, and their Aversion to
+        Constraint, 454, 455.
+    Their Diversions, 467, 469, 470.
+    Their Manners compared with the French 455.
+    Vindicated from Cruelty, 457, 458.
+    Their too great Freedom with Life, 459.
+    Their Womens Beauty, 460, 461.
+    Their Behaviour in Public, 461.
+    Why the _English_ are supposed to be descended from _Mutius Scavola_,
+        470.
+    An Influence of their Good-nature and Happiness, _ibid._
+    Blam’d for preferring other Countries to their own, 471.
+    Their different Living in the Country from the City, 470.
+
+  _Epernon_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Epitaph_ upon Epitaphs, 414.
+
+  _Erasmus_’s Statue, 426.
+
+  _Essex_, Earl of, his Head expos’d, 432.
+
+  _Estrades_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 401.
+
+  _Estrées_, Marshal _de_, _Victor Maria_, his Conduct, Character,
+      Dignities, Family, Estate, and his fine Diamonds, 260.
+
+  ---- _Gabriella de_, Mistress to _Henry_ IV. of _France_, 260.
+
+  _Eu_, Count _de_, 221, 225.
+
+  _Eugene_, of _Savoy_, Prince, 143, 259.
+
+  _St. Evremont_, M. his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Eysenach, Saxe_, Princess of, 446.
+
+
+          F
+
+  _Fagel, Gressier_, 406.
+
+  _Farnese, Francis_, Duke of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  _Farnese_, Palace, at _Rome_, 37.
+
+  _Faustina, Signora_, 66.
+
+  _Faustus, John_ of _Mentz_, 395.
+
+  _Fest_, Ceremony of washing them on _Holy Thursday_, 98.
+
+  _Feldtbruck_, Mademoiselle _de_, the severe Test she requir’d of her
+      Lover’s Affection, 320.
+
+  _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_, 291, 403.
+
+  ---- Brigadier and Ambassador, 403.
+
+  _Ferdinand de Medicis_, Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Ferrayo_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  _Ferrero_, Cardinal, 167.
+
+  _Filippucci_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Fine Gentleman_, his Character, 462.
+
+  _Fiochi_, of the Cardinals, what it means, 83.
+
+  _Fireworks of Germany_, expensive, 187.
+
+  _Flax_, why burnt at the Pope’s Coronation, 20.
+
+  _Flemings_, unsociable, 312.
+
+  _Flemish Woman_, good Topers, _ibid._
+
+  _Fleury_, Cardinal _de_, made Prime Minister, 211.
+    His Character, 228 to 235, 283.
+
+  FLORENCE, _t._ 130, _&c._
+
+  _Florentin_, Count _de St._ 237, 238.
+
+  _Flowers_, beautiful, where, 395.
+
+  FONTAINEBLEAU, Palace and Town, 184, 188.
+
+  _Fontana_, the Architect, 8, 9.
+
+  _Force_, Duke _de la_, 243.
+
+  _France_, whether ’twas her Interest to enter into the last War, 232 to
+      235.
+
+  _Francis_, I. King of _France_, 184.
+
+  _Francis de Medicis_, Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Frangipani_, Marquis, 52.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Bohemia_, 366.
+
+  ---- Elector of _Brandenburg_, 338, 362, 446.
+
+  ---- _Augustus_, King of _Poland_, 360, 361.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Prussia_, 361, 362, 367, 399.
+
+  _Frejus_, Bishop of, 228, 229, 230.
+
+  _French_, how they accounted for the Loss of so many Battles in the
+      last War, 153.
+    Not so modest as the Allies, 295.
+    Their Levity, 196, 197, 279.
+    Their good Qualities, 197, 275, 276.
+    Their Fashions, by whom to be followed, and by whom avoided, 460,
+        461.
+
+  _Frêne_, M. _du_, a famous French Comedian, 266.
+
+  FRIBOURG, _t._ 254.
+
+  _Fridlingen_ Battle, 252.
+
+  _Frouley_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 202.
+
+  _Fugger_, Countess _de_, 348.
+
+  _Furius Camillus_, the Dictator, his Vow, 35.
+
+  _Furstenberg_, Princess, 307.
+
+
+          G
+
+  _Galen, Bernard de_, Bishop, the Terror of the _Dutch_, 343.
+
+  _Galloway_, Lord, 440.
+
+  _Gamarre_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador’s Dispute with M. _de Thon_, a
+      _French_ Ambassador, about Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Gamesters_, order’d to the Gallies, 30.
+
+  _Gaming_, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  ---- One of the Plagues of the _French_ Nation, 198.
+    What their Ladies call a Man who does not play, and what the Men say
+        of Gaming in general, 199, 200.
+    How Gamesters are caress’d at many Womens Houses, and the great
+        Emoluments of Gaming, 201.
+    Who have a Grant for licensing it, _ibid._
+
+  _Gardening_, in _Italy_, declin’d, 33, 47.
+
+  _Gasse_, Count _de_, 212.
+
+  _Gaston, John_. See _Tuscany_’s Great Duke.
+
+  _Gaydon_, Major, in the Pretender’s Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Gendre, Peter le_, 175.
+
+  GENOA, _t._ 144.
+    Its Neighbourhood, 151.
+    Its Bombardment by the _French_, 144.
+    Character of the _Genoese_, 148.
+    Their War with the _Corsicans_, 149.
+
+  _Gentili_, Cardinal, 116.
+
+  _Gentlemen_, whether that Title be more due to Stage-Players, than to
+      Rope-Dancers or Tumblers, 268.
+
+  _George_ I. King 436.
+    His Statue, 438.
+    Compar’d to _Augustus_, 442.
+
+  _George_ II. King, 434, 445.
+    His Queen, 445, 446, 447.
+    Their Manner of Dining in Public, 449.
+    Drawing-Room, 456.
+
+  _Gerard, Balthasar_, the Assassin, 425.
+
+  _Gergy_, Parson of _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  ---- His Brother, Bishop of _Soissons_, ibid.
+
+  ---- Another, Ambassador at _Venice_, ibid.
+
+  _Germain_, (_St._) Abbat and Friers, ibid.
+
+  _German_ Princes, wiser than the _Italian_, 128.
+
+  _Germany_, the Strength of the Protestants and Papists there, 343.
+
+  _Gevres_, Duke, 201.
+
+  GHENT, _t._ 310, 317.
+
+  _Giafferi_, Leader of the _Corsican_ Rebels, 150.
+
+  _Girard_, Father, his Affair with a Lady at Confession, 193, _&c._
+
+  _Giudici_, Cardinal, 37, 90.
+
+  _Gladiators_, Statue, 49.
+
+  _Golofskin_, Count _de_, 404.
+
+  _Golstein_, Countess _de_, 331.
+
+  _Gondrin_, Marquis _de_, 226.
+
+  _Gondulphus_, Bishop, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Gondy_, Francis _de_, Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+
+  _Gonzague_, Cardinals, their Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Goudenau_, Marshal _de_, 346.
+
+  _Grafton_, Duke, 449.
+
+  _Grammont_, Duke _de_, 199.
+
+  _Grana_, Marquis _de_, 297.
+
+  _Grantham_, Earl of, 449.
+
+  _s’Gravesande_, Professor, 397.
+
+  Great Duke of _Tuscany_, by whom the Title was invented, 135.
+
+  _Greenwich_ Hospital, 432.
+
+  _St. Gregory the Great_, Pope, 31.
+
+  _Gregory_ XIII. Pope, 32.
+
+  _Gregory_ XV. Pope, 192.
+
+  GRENOBLE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Greys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Grilli_ (Locusts) apply’d to a Family of that Name, 41.
+
+  _Grimani_, Cardinal Legate, 129, 130.
+
+  _Grosvenor_’s Square, 438.
+
+  _Guadagno_, Cardinal, 115.
+
+  _Guiccardi_, Count, 149.
+
+  _Guido_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          H
+
+  _Hackney_, the Ceremony of presenting it to the See of _Rome_ for
+      _Naples_, 42 to 46.
+
+  HAGUE, Village, 398, _&c._
+
+  HALLE, _t._ 298.
+
+  _Handel_, the Composer, 466.
+
+  _Handkerchief_ of our Saviour, a Relique to be seen in three Places,
+      154.
+
+  _Hanover Family_, the Temper with which they received the News of their
+      Accession to the _British_ Throne, 446.
+
+  _Hapsbourg_, Count, 328.
+
+  _Harlai_, President, his Repartee to the _French_ Comedians, 267.
+
+  HARLEM, _t._ 394.
+
+  _Harrach, Frederic_, Count _de_, 303.
+
+  _Harrington_, Lord, 453.
+
+  HARWICH, _t._ 430.
+
+  _Hass_, M. the _Saxon_, 66.
+
+  _Hats_, Cardinals, why red, 86.
+
+  _Hatto_, Bishop, pursued and gnawed by Rats, 352.
+
+  _Hawitz_, Grand Marshal, 149.
+
+  _Haxhausen_, General, 332.
+
+  _Hayes_, Mr. and Mrs. styl’d Lord and Lady _Inverness_, 58, 59.
+
+  _Hazard_, Play, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  _Heidelberg_ Library, 25.
+
+  HELVOETSLUYS, _t._ 417 to 429.
+
+  _Henneberg_, Countess of. See _Holland_.
+
+  _Henry_ III. King of _France_, his Assassination, 269.
+    Ill Omens observ’d at his Consecration, _ibid._
+
+  ---- King of _England_, his Wife, 435.
+
+  ---- VIIth’s Chapel, 440.
+
+  _Henry_ of _Portugal_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _St. Henry_ of _Bavaria_, Emperor, 331.
+
+  _Herenhausen_ Water-Works, 269.
+
+  _Hermaphrodite_ Statue, 49.
+
+  _Herod_, whither banish’d, 173.
+
+  _Hesse Rhinfels_, Princess of, (late) Queen of _Sardinia_, 165, 212.
+
+  ---- _Eleonora_, Duchess of _Bourbon_, her Marriage, 212.
+
+  _Hesse Cassel_, Prince _Williams_, 320.
+    Landgrave, 351.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Landgrave, 361.
+
+  _Highwayman_’s remarkable Escape, 457.
+
+  _Hildebold_, Archbishop of _Cologn_, 327.
+
+  _Hochstet_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Hogendorp_, M. 413.
+
+  _Hohen-Zollern_, Count de, 344.
+
+  _Holland, Florence_ IV. Count of, 425.
+
+  _Holland_, Countess of, his Daughter, deliver’d of three hundred
+      sixty-five Children at a Birth, 425.
+
+  _Holy Ghost_, Picture of a Cardinal taking Aim at him with a Fusee, 17.
+
+  _Holy Week_, how observed at _Rome_, 96.
+
+  _Hompesch_, General, 399.
+
+  _Honslaerdyck_, Palace, 425.
+
+  _Hoornbeck_, Pensionary, 406.
+
+  HORNE, _t._ 392.
+
+  _Horses_, Dogs, and Falcons, where they abound most, 468.
+
+  _House_, in the Wood, 425.
+
+  _Howard_, Family of, 438.
+
+
+          I
+
+  _Jacob_’s Pillow, 440.
+
+  _Jagellon_, K. of _Poland_, 336.
+
+  _St. James_’s Palace and Park, 435, 436.
+    Square, 438.
+    Church, 439.
+
+  _James_ II. King, censur’d for neglecting a very precious Relique, 440.
+
+  _Jew, Dutch_, his Zeal for the Opera, in Opposition to an Anabaptist,
+      who was as hot for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  _Jews_, at _Amsterdam_, 388, 411.
+
+  _Imperiali_, Cardinal, 13, 14, 93.
+      _NB._ He dy’d in _January_ 1736-7.
+
+  _India_, Company, _Dutch_, 388.
+
+  _Infanta_ of _Spain_, sent back from _France_, 210, 211.
+
+  _Ingelheim_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Innocent_ IV. Pope, his Order about Cardinals Hats, 86.
+
+  _Innocent_ X. Pope, 90, 93.
+
+  _Inquisition_, at _Rome_, not so bad as represented, 125.
+    Congregation of the Holy Office, 126.
+
+  _Invalids_, Hospital, at _Paris_, 198.
+
+  _Inverness_, Lord and Lady, 58, 59.
+
+  _Joan_, of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Joannino_, the Duke of _Tuscany_’s _Favourite_, 132, 133.
+
+  _Johannesburg_ Wine, 352.
+
+  JOHN ST. DE MAURIENNE, _t._ 170.
+
+  _John-William_, Elector Palatine, 358, 359.
+
+  _John_ II. King of _France_, why compar’d to _Regulus_, 435.
+
+  _John_ III. King of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  _Joseph Clement_, Elector of _Cologne_, 345.
+
+  _Isis_, Goddess, and her Temple, 190.
+
+  _Italians_, their revengeful Temper, 14.
+    Jealousy and Niggardliness, 73, 74.
+    Their Disposition towards the _French_ and _Germans_, 16.
+    Their Behaviour at Executions, 110, 111, 112.
+    Their Hatred to one another, 127.
+    The Formality of settling the Interviews of their petty Princes, 128.
+    Why they are the Jest of Foreigners, _ibid._
+    Who the most polite, 139.
+
+  _Italians_, of the _Netherlands_, who, 324.
+
+  _Italy_, Devils of, who so called, 143.
+
+  _Judgement_, Day of, a remarkable Painting, 24.
+
+  JULIERS, _t._ 332, 361.
+
+
+          K
+
+  KEISERSWAERT, _t._ 347, 361.
+
+  _Keppel_, M. _de_, 407, 408.
+
+  _Kettlers_ Family, Dukes of _Courland_, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the _Medicis_ of _Tuscany_, 136.
+
+  _Keys_ of _St. Peter_, what they denote, 23.
+
+  _Kings_ of _Cologne_, 333.
+
+  _Kroon, Theodore_, Van der, 369.
+
+
+          L
+
+  _Lacqueys_, at _Paris_, the Favourites of their Ladies and young
+      Masters, 275.
+    A Conversation between those of two Cardinals, about their
+        Pre-eminence, 294.
+
+  _Lalaing_, Count _de_, 312.
+
+  _Lalock, Nassau_, Count _de_, 314, 315, 412, 413.
+
+  LANDAU, _t._ 254.
+
+  LANEBOURG, _t._ 170.
+
+  _Lansquenet_, The _French_ King’s Party at that Game, 199.
+
+  _Lateran_ Church, the Ceremony of the Pope’s taking Possession of it,
+      49.
+
+  _Lauzun_, M. _de_, 179.
+
+  _Law, John_, the Projector, 210, 239.
+    King of _Sardinia_’s Advice to him, 239.
+    His Death, and his Widow and Son, 240.
+    A Copy of Verses on him, 241.
+    His Coat of Arms, 243.
+    The Homage paid to him in his Prosperity, 244.
+    Description of his Person, and Remarks on his System, 245, _&c._ to
+        250, 380.
+
+  LEGHORN, _t._ the grand Appearance there on the Arrival of the
+      _Spanish_ Fleet, in which they expected Don _Carlos_, 139.
+    Description of the City, _&c._ 140, _&c._
+
+  _Leie_, Count _de la_, 350.
+
+  _Lenoirs_ Tapistry Manufacture, 308.
+
+  _Leo_ III. Pope, his Present to _Charlemain_, 99.
+
+  _Leopold_, Archduke, 342.
+
+  _Lepanto_, Victory, 43.
+
+  LERICI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Lewis d’Ors_, worn in a Lady’s Ears for Pendants, 218.
+
+  _Lewis_, the Pious, 327.
+
+  ---- Duke of _Burgundy_, 363.
+
+  _Lewis_ XIV. his Statue, _&c._ at _Lyons_, 178.
+    At _Dijon_, 181.
+    His Debt, 246.
+    His Offer to _Charles_ II. of Stones for Gravel, 437.
+
+  ---- XVth’s Marriage, 185-211.
+    His Character, 203, 204.
+    His Queen and Children, 204, 205.
+
+  _Lewis_, Pr. of _Baden_, how surpriz’d by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  LEYDEN, _t._ 396.
+
+  ---- University, 397.
+
+  _St. Liberius_ I. Pope, 13.
+
+  _Lichtenstein_, Princess _de_, 303.
+
+  LIEGE, _t._ 321 to 324.
+
+  LIMBURG, _t._ 326.
+
+  LINTZ, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Lippe_, Count _de la_, 344.
+
+  _Liria_, Duke of, 257, 259.
+
+  LISLE, _t._ 296, 315, 316.
+
+  _Livery_, Servants at _Rome_, their poor Wages, 105.
+    The Practice of Jubileeing them, what, 106.
+    Some kept only for Sundays and Holidays, _ibid._
+
+  _Lobkowitz_, Princess, 307.
+
+  _Locusts_, in _Italy_, curs’d by the Pope and banish’d to the Sea, 41.
+
+  LONDON, _t._ 430.
+    to the End. King _Charles_ IId’s Menace against this City ridicul’d
+        by one of the Aldermen, 431.
+    Its Increase since the Accession of the Present Royal Family to the
+        Crown, 439.
+
+  ---- Prov’d to be more populous than _Paris_, 190, 191.
+    It’s Bridge, 432.
+    Cathedral, _ibid._
+    Monument, Burse, and Tower, 434.
+    Streets not well pav’d, 437, 438.
+    Its Diversions, 462, _&c._
+    Assemblies, 465.
+    Dances and Plays, 464 to 467.
+
+
+          M
+
+  MACON, _t._ 180.
+
+  MAESTRICHT, _t._ 319, 329
+
+  _Mailly_, Cardinal, 229.
+
+  _Maine_, Duke of, 179, 180, 181, 220, _&c._
+    Duchess, her Imprisonment, 180, 222, 223.
+    His Degradation, 209, 222.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle _de_, 225.
+
+  _Maintenon_, Madame _de_, 261.
+    _Lewis_ XIVth’s Reprimand of her for leaving him in his last
+        Sickness, 262.
+    Her Retirement, Death, Tomb and Epitaph, 162, 263, _&c._
+    Her Family and Pension to the last, 264.
+
+  ---- Who is the present Marquis, _ibid._
+
+  _Malines_, Lady of, 314.
+
+  _Malplaquet_, Battle, 253.
+
+  _Malta_, Grand Master’s Title, 86.
+    His Ambassador’s Reception by the Pope, 121.
+
+  _Malusius_, 340.
+
+  _Maratti, Charles_, a Designer, 32.
+
+  _Marble_, rich Quarries of it, 143.
+
+  _Mark William, de Lumay_, Count _de la_, 427.
+
+  _Marcus Aurelius Antonius_, his Equestrian Statue, for which the
+      _Venetians_ offer’d as many Sequins as could be put into the
+      Horse’s Belly, 33.
+
+  _Marez_, a noted old Actress of _Lyons_, 177, 178.
+
+  _Margaretta Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Mari_, (_Spanish_) Admiral, 137, 148.
+
+  MARIENBOURG, _t._ 336.
+
+  MARIENSTEAL, _t._ _ibid._
+
+  _Marlborough_’s Duke, and Palace, 437.
+
+  MARPURG, t. 336.
+
+  _Marquis de L----_, his Fortune made by an old Lady, 285.
+
+  _Marr_, Lady, her meeting Princess _Sobleski_, 63.
+
+  _Mary Magdalen_ of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _St. Mary Majors_ Church at _Rome_, 12.
+
+  _Mary de la Rovero_, Duchess of _Urbino_, 135.
+
+  _Mary de Medicis_, Regent of _France_, 145.
+
+  _Masch_, M. _de_, 404
+
+  MASSA DI CARRARA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Maternus_, Bishop, 323.
+
+  _Mathurias_, Order of, 184.
+
+  _Matilda_, Countess, 11.
+
+  _Maurepas_, Count _de_, 237.
+
+  _Maurice_, Prince, 314, 399.
+
+  _Maurice_, M. _de St._ Prime Minister, 213.
+
+  _Maurice_, Cardinal of _Savoy_, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Maximilian_ II. Emperor, his Answer to _Cosmo_ of _Tuscany_, when he
+      wanted the Title of King, 135.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Cardinal, 335.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Duchess _de_, 238, 409, 410.
+
+  MECHLIN, _t._ 317, 318.
+
+  _Medicis_, Family of, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the Family _Kettlers_, of _Courland_, 136.
+
+  _Medicis_, _Ferdinand de_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  ---- _Bernard de_, 136.
+
+  ---- _Juvence de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Octaviano de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Mary de_, Queen, 334.
+
+  ---- _Mary-Anne_, Electress _Palatine_, 359, 361.
+
+  MELUN, _t._ 240.
+
+  MENIN, _t._ 314.
+
+  _Mentz, Francis Lewis_, Elector of, 336, 342, 353.
+
+  ---- _Philip Charles_, Elector, 353.
+
+  MENTZ, _t._ ibid.
+
+  ---- _Francis, Lotharius_, Elector, _ibid._
+
+  _Merchants_, Difference betwixt the _English_ and Foreigners, 471.
+
+  _Mercy_, Count _de_, 255.
+
+  _Metternich_, Count _de_, 350.
+
+  _Michael Angelo_, 33, 37.
+
+  _Mignard_, the Painter, 269.
+
+  _Milan_, conquer’d, 256.
+
+  _Milciades_, an _Italian_ Game at Cards, 70.
+
+  _Mirandola, Picus de_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Misset_, M. 61, 62.
+
+  _Missisippi_ Scheme, and its Projector, Verses thereupon, 241, _&c._
+    Its Fate compar’d to that of the _South-Sea_ Scheme, 244.
+    A curious Account of it, 246 to 250.
+
+  _Misson_, Mr. his Account of the Pope’s Coronation reflected on, 22.
+    His being always furnish’d with Mathematical Instruments, 141.
+
+  _Mistresses_, Generosity of the _English_ to theirs, 469.
+
+  ---- Kept in Partnership, _ib._
+
+  _Modena_, Princes of, 148.
+
+  _Molland_, Palace, 363.
+
+  _Mondragone_ Seat, near _Rome_, 48.
+
+  _Money_, the Scarcity of it in _France_, 217.
+    Worship paid to it at _Amsterdam_, 381, 382.
+
+  MONS, _t._ 297.
+
+  _Montague_ House, 439.
+
+  _Montcallier_ Castle, 152.
+
+  _Monte Cavallo_ Palace, 32.
+
+  _Montespan_, Marchioness, 188, 205, 216, 226, 264.
+
+  _Montesquiou_, Marshal, 260.
+
+  _Monti_, Marquis, the Pretender’s Landlord. 58.
+
+  _Montijo_, Count _de_, 439.
+
+  _Montpensier_, Mademoiselle _de_, her Fame in the Civil Wars of
+      _France_, 179.
+    Her Restraint from marrying, _ibid._
+
+  _Montrevel_, Marshal _de_, 253.
+
+  _Monulphus_, Bishop of _Tongres_, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Morville_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Mouchi_, Madame _de_, 316.
+
+  _Mouths_ of the Cardinals, the Ceremony of Opening and Shutting them by
+      the Pope, 80.
+
+  _Muley Ismael_ of _Morocco_, his pretended Demand of the Princess of
+      _Conti_ in Marriage, 219.
+
+  MULHEIM, _t._ 335.
+
+  _Murder_, how punish’d at _Rome_, 74.
+
+  _Mutius Scavola_, a Conceit that the _English_ are descended from him,
+      470.
+
+
+          N
+
+  NAMUR, _t._ 317, 319.
+
+  _Naples_, the Tribute paid for it to the See of _Rome_, 43 to 46.
+
+  _Nassau_, Princes of, 309.
+
+  ---- _Zeist_, Count _de_, 367.
+
+  ---- _Orange_, Prince of, 412.
+
+  _Navona_, Square, 5.
+    The Ceremony of watering it, 66.
+
+  _Neautre_, M. _le_, 436.
+
+  _Nectarius_, Patriarch, 195.
+
+  _Nephews_ of the Popes, their general Character, 40.
+
+  _Nesle_, Marquis _de_, 309.
+
+  _Netherlands, Austrian_, Pride and Poverty of the Nobility and Gentry,
+      305, 306.
+
+  _Newbourgh, Lewis-Antony de_, 336.
+
+  ---- _Francis_, Elector of _Mentz_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Neuhoff Theodore_, Baron _de_, proclaim’d K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Neville Camillus, Nicolas_ and _Charles_, _de la_, 175.
+
+  NEUWIDT, _t._ and Count _de_, 349.
+
+  _Newcastle_, Duke of, 453.
+
+  _Newmarket_ Races, 468.
+
+  NEWPORT, _t._ 313.
+
+  NIMEGUEN, _t._ 365, 370.
+
+  _Noailles, Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal, 192, 294.
+
+  ---- Duke _de_, 207, 264.
+
+  _Noailles, Maria Victoria de_, 226.
+
+  ---- Duchess _d’Estrées_, 260.
+
+  _Nocera_, a Canon, 92.
+
+  _Nordkirchen_, Seat, 346.
+
+  _Norfolk_, Duke of, 438.
+
+  _Nostradamus_, a Prophecy of his apply’d to _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Nothast_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  NOVALAISE, _la_, _t._ 169.
+
+  _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, prohibited by the Archbishops of _Paris_,
+      277.
+    Differences about it, betwixt the Court and Parliament, 277, 278.
+
+  _Nuncios_, of the Pope, 77.
+
+
+          O
+
+  _Obdam_, Count _de_, 412.
+
+  _Odyck_, M. _de_, 367.
+
+  _Oels_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Olivieri_, Cardinal, 44, 54.
+
+  _Openord, Giles Maria_, Architect, 201.
+
+  _Operas_, in _France_, the Distinction paid to the Actors, 267.
+
+  _Orange_, Palace in _Brussels_, 299, 300. at the Hague, 425.
+
+  ---- Princes of, 309, 401, 401, 412, 413, 425.
+
+  _Orbano_, R. 171.
+
+  _Orleans_, Dukes of, 173, 174, 179, 206, 207, 209, 212, 221, 229, 230,
+      236, 268, 269, 283, 292, 293, 295.
+
+  ---- Duchess, 185.
+    Dowager, 205, 206.
+    _Henrietta_, Duchess of, her Death, 269.
+    His Sisters, 207, 208.
+    _Philippa_, her Death, 208.
+    _Louisa Diana_, her Marriage and Issue, 208, 217.
+
+  ORLEANS, _t._ taken, 179.
+
+
+          P
+
+  _Pagan_ Impertinences, reviv’d in the Christian Religion, 203.
+
+  _Pain_, despis’d by our Nation, 470.
+
+  _Palatine_, Electress Dowager, 130.
+    _John-William_, Elector, 358, 359, 360.
+
+  _Pallas_, a _French_ Officer, who married both Mother and Daughter,
+      acquitted by the Inquisition, 116.
+
+  _Palmquist_, Ambassador, 405.
+
+  _Pamphili_, Princes, 6, 41, 42.
+     Palace, 41.
+
+  ---- _Camillus_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Pantheon_, at _Rome_, 7.
+
+  _Paris_, Abbé, his pretended Miracles, 195, _&c._ 284.
+
+  _Paris_, Brothers, 210, 227, 245.
+
+  PARIS, _t._ 189, _&c._
+    Whether most populous, this City, or _London_, 190, 191.
+    Number of its People, Streets, Houses, 192.
+    Expence of its Lanthorns, and its Revenues, _ibid._
+    Archbishop’s Title, _ibid._
+    By whom founded, and most beautify’d, 190, 192.
+    Its Prerogatives, 192.
+    Governor, 201.
+    Lacqueys, 274, 275.
+    Parliaments, 283.
+    What _Charles_ V. meant when he said, He could put this City into his
+        Glove, 310.
+    Parliament House, 441, 442.
+
+  _Parma_, Dukes of, the Office they are to perform for the Pope, 52.
+    The Pope’s Concern for the Loss of the Duchy, 114, 120.
+
+  _Patricians_, of _Germany_, 333, 334.
+
+  _Paul_ III. Pope, 38, 40.
+    His Order about the Cardinals Caps, 86.
+    His Establishment of the Inquisition, 126.
+
+  ---- IV. Pope, the Solicitor of it, _ibid._
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 32, 47, 48.
+
+  _Peasants, English_, their Happiness, 471.
+
+  _Pericon_, M. Magistrate at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _Perauss_, Count _de la_, 161, 162, 163.
+
+  _Peter, St. d’Arena_ Suburbs of _Genoa_, 148.
+
+  _Peter, St._ why describ’d as holding three Keys, 23.
+    His Church and Chair, at _Rome_, 7 to 12.
+    Who buried in it, 11.
+    His Miracles, what, 39.
+
+  PETITBOURG, _t._ 188.
+
+  _Petits Colets_, the Petits Maitres of _Rome_, 70, 73.
+
+  _Petronilla_, St. 11.
+
+  _Peyrome_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+
+  _Phaethon_’s, Story finely painted, 439.
+
+  _Pharao_, plaid in the Conclave of Cardinals, 70.
+
+  _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, his submissive Speech to _Phillip_
+      IV. King of _Spain_, 145.
+
+  _Philips_, Mr. Preceptor to the Duke, 448.
+
+  _Philipsburg_, Siege of, 259.
+
+  _Picus, de Mirandola_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Piedmontese_, their Court and Character, 165, 166, 168.
+
+  PIETRA SANTA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Pignatelli_, Cardinal, 86.
+
+  _Pilate_, whither banish’d, 173.
+
+  _Pilgrims_, Hospital at _Rome_, 76.
+
+  _Pin, Joseph_, Painter, 359.
+
+  PISA, _t._ 141.
+    Pride of the People, _ibid._
+
+  _Pius_ V. Pope, 80, 126.
+
+  _Pizzighitone_, taken, 255.
+
+  _Platen_, Count _de_, Post-master of _Hanover_, 238.
+    His Daughter’s Marriage and Pension from King _George_ I. and II.
+        238.
+
+  _Plettenburg_, Count _de_, 341, 344, 345, 346.
+
+  _Polignac_, Cardinal, 85.
+
+  PONT DE BONVOISIN, _t._ 172.
+
+  _Pontchartrain_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 235, 237.
+
+  _Ponthievre_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Popelsdorf_, Village, 340.
+
+  _Popes_, the Days on which the Cardinals kiss their Feet, 17.
+    Character of their Nephews, 40.
+    Reception of Ambassadors, 121.
+
+  _Pope_, who was the first that was crown’d, 22.
+    Compar’d to the Holy Sepulchre, 29.
+
+  _Portail_, M. _de_, President, 249.
+
+  _Portland_, Earl of, 408.
+
+  _Portugal_, _Henry_, Cardinal of, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    Its broils with the Court of _Rome_, 116 to 119.
+
+  _Poultier_, M. Intendant at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _P----y, William_, 451.
+
+  _Poyntz, Stephen_, Esq, 448.
+
+  _Pragmatic Sanction_, 403.
+
+  _Prebends_, bought and sold, 369.
+
+  _Precedence_, Disputes about it betwixt Ambassadors, 400 to 403.
+
+  _Pretender_, his Pension and Honours from the Pope, 57, 58.
+    His Landlord, Courtiers, and Domestics, Style, and Stature, and his
+        Sons, 58, 59.
+    His Treatment from the Imperial and _French_ Cardinals, 58.
+    His Aspect and Character, 59.
+    His Mistress, _ibid._
+    His Protestant Chapel, and Table, _ibid._
+    His Wife, 60, 61.
+    Prophecy of his coming to the _British_ Throne, 63.
+
+  _Preys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Prie_, Marchioness, 166, 227, 304.
+
+  _Priests_, _Italian_, a heavy Charge against them, 112.
+
+  ---- _Flemish_, always railing at one another, 314.
+
+  _Printing_, where invented, 395.
+
+  _Procession_ Chair, of the Popes, 17.
+
+  _Prussia_, _Ducal_ or _Brandenburg_, 336.
+    _Fredric_, K. of, 338.
+
+  _Pucelage_, its Meaning, 284.
+
+  _Pucelle_, a Counsellor, banish’d from the Parliament at _Paris_, 282,
+      283.
+    Verses on his Exile, 284.
+
+  _Pussenburg_, Baron _de_, 296.
+
+  _Puppet-player_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Purpora_, the Singer, 66.
+
+  _Pyrrhus_’s Saying, after he had defeated the _Romans_, 253.
+
+
+          Q
+
+  _Q----y_, Duke of, his Behaviour on the Duchess’s being forbid the
+      Court, 444.
+
+  QUIERI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Quinaut_, the famous Comedian, 266.
+
+
+          R
+
+  _Rabutyn_, _Bussy_’s, Letters, 181, 443.
+
+  _Raby_, Lord, his Amour, 410.
+
+  _Race_, run round St. _James_’s Park, by a naked Man, 470.
+
+  _Ramillies_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Raphael_, Painter, 24, 359.
+
+  _Rastadt_, Treaty, 254.
+
+  _Ratisbon_, _Theodore_, Bishop of, 349.
+
+  _Rats_, Tower in the _Rhine_, 352.
+
+  _Ratto_, Signior, 4.
+    Bishop of _Cordoua_, 85.
+
+  _Regulas, John_ II. K. of _France_ compar’d to him, 435.
+
+  _Reimbrants_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Reliques_, at _Aix_, the Time and Manner of exposing them, 329, 330.
+
+  _Remi_, (S.) a noted Better at the _French_ Court, 199, 200.
+
+  _Restitution_, by the Popes, what, 88.
+
+  _Retirement_, Verses in Praise of it, 223.
+
+  _Retz_, Duke of, 174.
+
+  _Rhebinder_, Marshal, 158, 159, 166.
+
+  RHEIMS, _t._ 269.
+
+  RHEN, _t._ 366.
+
+  _Rhenish_ Wine, where the best, 352.
+
+  RHINBECK, _t._ 347.
+
+  _Rhine_, R. 349.
+
+  _Rhinfields_ Castle, 351.
+
+  _Richardi_, Marquis, and his Son Don _Vincenzo_, 134.
+
+  _Richelieu_, Cardinal’s Ingratitude to Q. _Mary de Medicis_, 334, 335.
+
+  _Richmond_, Duchess, 409.
+
+  _Ridelsheim_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Rinuccini_, Marquis, 132, 134, 137.
+
+  _Ripperda_, Duke _de_, 296.
+
+  _Rivoli_ Castle, 158.
+
+  _Robbery_, on the Highway, remarkable, 457.
+
+  _Robert_, (the Pious) K. of _France_, 98.
+
+  _Rochebonne_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+
+  _Roche, Sur-yon_, Mademoiselle _de la_, 218.
+
+  _Rodolph_ I. Emperor, a miraculous Appearance at his Coronation, 327,
+      328.
+
+  _Roer_, River, 332.
+
+  _Rohan_, Cardinal, 186.
+
+  ---- Prince, 205.
+
+  _Roll_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Rolling_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Romain, Julius_ Painter, 359.
+
+  _Roman_ Princes, their high Pretensions, 102, 104.
+
+  ---- Princesses and Popes Nieces more humble than formerly, 103.
+    How they are lighted to the Plays, 105.
+    Their unwieldy Coaches, and scrub Liveries, 106.
+    Why they never wear Mourning, 108.
+
+  ROME, _t._ Manners of the People, 67, 72, 73, 406.
+    Its Squares, 2, _&c._
+    Churches, 6, _&c._
+    Palaces, 24, _&c._ 36, _&c._
+    Theatres, 65.
+    Their Diversions and Repasts, 68, 69.
+    Our Author’s Dislike of this City, 68, 72.
+    Why young Gentlemen ought to visit it, 72.
+    Its Hospitals, 76.
+    Consistories, 81.
+    The Time when all Ceremonies are laid aside, 105.
+    Their Funerals, 107, 108.
+    Mourning, 108.
+    Their Fireworks, 109.
+    Its Governor, 109, 110.
+    Senator, 110.
+    Executions, 111, 113.
+    Their Hatred of other _Italians_, 127.
+
+  _Rota_, Tribunal of, 109.
+
+  _Rotonda_ Church, 7.
+
+  ROTTERDAM, _t._ 426.
+
+  _Rubempré_, Prince and Princess _de_, 300, 309.
+
+  _Rubens_, Painter, 317, 358, 359.
+
+  _Ruhi_, Marquis _de_, 318.
+
+  _Ruspanti_, Pensioners, why so call’d, 133.
+
+  _Ruspoli_, Signior, his Promotion to be a Cardinal, 77 to 80.
+
+  ---- Prince’s, Funeral, 108.
+
+  _Rysnic_, 370, 425.
+
+
+          S
+
+  _Sacrament_, Holy, the Grandeur and Solemnity of the Pope’s Procession
+      with it, 124, and of the Parish of _St. Sulpice_ in _France_, 202.
+
+  _Saltzu, Herman de_, 336.
+
+  _Salviati_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Santa Croce_, Prince of, 42.
+
+  SANTEN, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Santini_, Marquis, 341.
+
+  _Santa-Buona_, Duke, 60.
+
+  _Sardam_, Village, 389.
+
+  _Sardini_, Prelate, his Imprisonment, 92.
+
+  _Sardinia_, K. the Pope’s Grant to him, _ibid._
+
+  _Sardinia, Victor Amedeus_ late K. of, his Abdication and Imprisonment,
+      156 to 164.
+    Son’s Duty to him, 157 to 164.
+
+  _Sarno_, Duke of, 136.
+
+  SARZANA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Sastago_, Count _de_, 318.
+
+  _Savoy_, Duchess of, 156.
+    Palace in the _Strand_, 435.
+
+  _Savoy_, Princes of, 435.
+
+  _Savoyards_, Character, 171.
+
+  _Saurin_, M. 414.
+
+  _Saxony_, _John George_ IV. Elector of, 446.
+
+  _Scaliger_’s Character of _Lyons_, 173.
+
+  _Scarlet_, why the Cardinals Robes and Caps are of that Colour, 86.
+
+  _Scarron, Paul_, the Poet, who was Madame _de Maintenon_’s Husband,
+      264.
+
+  _Schasberg_, Count _de_, 361.
+
+  _Scheld_ River, 3.
+
+  SCHEVELING, _t._ 400.
+
+  SCHLANGENBADT, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Schourff_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Schouts_, _Dutch_, 376.
+
+  SCHWALBACH, _t._ and Waters, 356.
+
+  _Schwartzo_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Sculpture_, not the best in _London_, 434.
+
+  _Seaux_, the Duke of _Maine_’s Seat, 223.
+
+  _Schonborn_, Countess _de_, 350.
+
+  ---- _Francis-George_, Count _de_, Bishop of _Triers_, 350.
+
+  ---- Bishops of _Spires_, and _Bamberg_, 350, 353.
+
+  _Sebastian, St._ Marchioness _de_, 156, 157, _&c._ 160, 162, 164.
+
+  ---- K. of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  ---- _St._ t. taken, 258.
+
+  _Seignelay_, Marquis of, his Bombardment of _Genoa_, 144.
+
+  _Senator_, of _Rome_, 110.
+
+  _Seneca_’s Statue, 49.
+
+  _Senesino_, the Singer, 466.
+
+  _Senez_, Bishop of, 240.
+
+  SENS, _t._ 183.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  SERSARA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Servants_, the Custom of treating ’em in _England_, ridiculed, 465.
+
+  SESTRI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Ships_, the Difference betwixt the _English_ and _Spaniards_, and
+      those of three Decks, and two, 138.
+
+  _Sinzendorf_, Count, 232, 403.
+
+  ---- Countess, her Conversion to Popery by a Flash of Lightning, 149.
+
+  _Sixtus_ IV. his Power as to Hell and Purgatory, 25.
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 8, 9, 25, 31.
+
+  _Skates, Dutch_, describ’d, 384.
+
+  _Slingeland_, the (late) Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, 406.
+
+  _Smith, Richard_, Bookbinder, and his Wife, their tragical Catastrophe,
+      270, _&c._
+    Their Apology for killing themselves and their Child, and the
+        Confession of their Faith, 271, 272.
+
+  _Snow_, in _August_, 13.
+
+  _Sobieski_, Prince and Princess. 61, 63.
+    Her Arrest, as she went to be marry’d to the Pretender, 61.
+    Her Escape, 61, 62.
+    Her Reception at _Rome_ by Lady _Marr_, &c. and the Cardinals, 63.
+    Her Death, _ibid._
+
+  _Sodomite_, the pert Answer of one to a Cardinal, 112.
+
+  _Soissons_, Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Solare_, Chevalier _de_, 162, 163, 164.
+
+  SPA, _t._ and Waters, 325.
+    Great Resort to it, 326.
+
+  _Spain_, Q. Dowager of _Lewis_ I. her Marriage, and her silent Visit
+      from _Lewis_ XV. 207.
+    Her Retirement to a Convent. 208.
+
+  _Spaniards_ Arrival at _Leghorn_, 134, 136, 137.
+    Comparison between their Officers and Ships, and the _English_, 138.
+
+  _Sparr_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  _Speik_, Madame _de_, 361.
+
+  _Spigo_, Marquisate, and Marchioness, 157, 158, 160.
+
+  _Spinola, John Baptist_, Cardinal, 130.
+
+  _Spork_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Stadthouse_, at _Amsterdam_, 377 to 380.
+
+  _Stage_ Players, the extravagant Respect paid to ’em in _France_, 266,
+      _&c._
+    A Joke put upon them by President _Harlai_, 267.
+
+  _Stampa_, General, 120.
+
+  _Stein_, Baron, 311.
+
+  _Stilletto_, the frequent Use of it at _Rome_, 73, 74.
+
+  _Stoves, Dutch_, describ’d, 372.
+
+  _Strafford_, Earl of, 438, 451, 452.
+    His prophetical Conversation with the D. of _Ormond_, 453.
+
+  _Strappa Corda_, what, 111.
+
+  _Strickland_, Bishop, 319.
+
+  _Strozzi_, Duke, 52.
+
+  _Suarez_, Madame, 135.
+
+  _Sudarini_, Marquis, his Present of a fine Coach to his
+      Daughter-in-law, 106.
+
+  _Sulpice, St._ the Parson’s, Lottery, 201.
+    His Parsonage a fat one, 202.
+    Its Seminary, _ibid._
+
+  _Surnames_, the Moderns blamed for not giving them to their Heroes as
+      well as the Ancients, 251.
+
+  SUSA, _t._ 168.
+
+
+          T
+
+  _Tallard_, Duchess, 205, 211.
+
+  _Tancin_, Archbishop of _Ambrun_, 240.
+
+  _Tapistry_ Manufactures, 308.
+
+  _Targa_, Bp. Cardinal _Coscia_’s Brother, 91.
+
+  _Tavannes_, Count _de_, 182.
+
+  _Taverns, English_, better than the _French_, 465.
+
+  _Tenebra_, a fine Piece of Music, 96.
+
+  _Terrasson_, Abbé, 243.
+
+  _Teutonic_ Order, Masters of it, 326.
+
+  _Texeria_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Thames_ River, 431, 432.
+
+  _Theatres_ at _Paris_, better open’d than shut, 385.
+
+  _Theodore_, Baron _de Neuhoff_, proclaim’d K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Tholouse_, Count _de_, and Countess, 199, 220, 221, 226.
+    Her Sister, 260.
+
+  _Thou_, M. _de_, Ambassador, his Dispute with a _Spaniard_ about
+      Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Tingry_, Prince _de_, 296.
+
+  _Tintoret_, Painter, 359.
+
+  TIRLEMONT, _t._ 319.
+
+  _Titian_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Titus_’s Arch at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  TONGRES, _t._ 323.
+
+  _Torcy_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Tour_ and _Taxis_, Prince and Princess, 306, 307, 308.
+    His Mother and Children, 307.
+
+  _Tour, Humbert de la_, 172, 173.
+
+  _Touraine, la_, 216.
+
+  _Tranquillity_, Christian, a Poem, on the Disputes of the Times, 279.
+
+  _Treaties_ of Peace, three concluded successively in the Dominions of
+      the _Dutch_, 370.
+
+  _Tremouille_, Cardinal _de_, 215.
+
+  TREVOUX, _t._ 179, 180.
+
+  _Triers, Francis-George_, Count _de Schonborn_, the present Bishop,
+      350, 351.
+
+  _Triple Crown_, by what Pope first worn, 22.
+
+  _Trotti_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Tuilleries_, in _France_, Garden, 436.
+
+  _Tulip-Root_, of great Value, 395.
+
+  TURIN, _t._ 152.
+    Its University, 167.
+    Its Siege, 152, 153.
+
+  _Tuscans_, the great Hopes they entertained of _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Tuscany_’s Great Duke, his Manner of giving Audience in Bed, with his
+      Lap-Dogs, and his hearty Reception of our Author, 131, 132, 134.
+    His Indolence in his Bed-chamber, and Deshabille, 133.
+    His Kindness to Pilgrims, and Fondness for the _Germans_, ibid.
+    His Pensioners and Paymaster, _ibid._
+    Who influenced him to recognise Don _Carlos_ for his Successor, 134.
+
+  _Twicked, Wassenaer de_, 412.
+
+  _Tyburn_ Executions, 458, 459.
+
+
+          V
+
+  _Vahal_, River, 365.
+
+  _Val de Grace Church_, 198.
+
+  VALENCIENNES, _t._ 296.
+
+  _Valere_, Mademoiselle _de_, 188, 219.
+
+  _Valois, Philip de_, 172.
+
+  _Vander Borg_’s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Vander Duin_, Messieurs, 408.
+
+  _Vandyke_, 359.
+
+  _Varengeville, Joanna de_, Wife of the Marshal _Villars_, 255.
+
+  _Vatican_ Palace, 24, 31.
+
+  ---- Library, 25.
+
+  _Vauhan_, M. Engineer, 315.
+
+  _Vayrac_, Abbé, the Author, 273.
+    His pleasant Rencounter with a pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, 273,
+        274.
+    His Plagiarism, 274.
+
+  _Vendosme_, Duke de, 253. Why he has not left his Fellow, 254.
+
+  _Venerie Castle_, 155.
+
+  _Venice_ and _Amsterdam_ compar’d, 371.
+
+  _Ventadour_, Duke and Duchess _de_, 205, 334.
+
+  _Vermillon_’s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Veronese, Paul_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Versailles_ Park, 436.
+
+  _Vespasian_’s Amphitheatre, 35.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Mademoiselle _de_, her unhappy Fate in the Fire at
+      _Brussels_, 301, 403.
+
+  VIAREGGIO Forest and Village, 141, 142.
+
+  _Victor_, King of _Sardinia_, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 155 to
+      164.
+    His Advice to the famous _John Law_, 239.
+    His Treaty with _France_ and _Spain_, 252.
+
+  _Vienna_ Treaty, 296.
+
+  VIENNE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Villars_, Marshal de, _Francis Hector_, 250 to 256.
+    Our Author’s smart Answer to him, when he boasted of his Clemency at
+        _Denain_, 251.
+    His Invention of a Surname for the Marshal, which put him in good
+        Humour, 252.
+    His Creation as Marshal of _France_, _ib._
+    His Conduct in the _Cevennois_ and in _Flanders_, 253.
+    His Preferment to the Government of _Provence_, and his Compliment to
+        the Memory of his deceased Predecessor, 254.
+    His remarkable Expressions to the _French_ King, when he went to the
+        Command in _Germany_, and when he had purchas’d an Estate,
+        _ibid._
+    His Command, Sickness and Death, in _Italy_, 255.
+    His Family and Character, _ibid._ 256.
+    His nimble Trip from a Ball to a Battle, _ibid._
+    A Sonnet made on him when he set out last for _Italy_, _ibid._
+    His Scruple to accept of a Commission to act against the King of
+        _Spain_, 258.
+
+  _Villeroy_, M. 174, 178, 229.
+    The Family, _ibid._ 175.
+
+  _Vinci, Leonard_, 66.
+
+  _Vintimille_, N. N. Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+    His Concern for the Goodness of his Mutton, greater than for that of
+        the Pasture of his Sheep, 193.
+    His equal Respect to different Orders, and an Epigram upon his
+        Mandate, in favour of the _Constitution Unigenitus_, 193.
+
+  _Viol_, holy, at _St. Rheims_, the Story of it, 269, 270.
+
+  _Visconti_, Count _de_, and Countess, 300, 302, 307, 308.
+
+  _Vitriarius_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Voisin_, M. Secretary at War, 235.
+
+  _Voltaire_, the Poet, his Tragedy of _Brutus_ admir’d, 265.
+    Criticis’d, 266, 467.
+
+  _Urban_ V. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Urban_ VIII. Pope, his Order about the Cardinals Title, 86.
+
+  _Vrilliere_, M. Secretary of State, 209, 237, 238.
+
+  ---- Madame _de_, 238.
+
+  _Ursini_, Cardinal, his Election to be Pope, 26, 27.
+
+  _Ushers_ of the Pope, their Privilege, 81.
+
+  UTRECHT, _t._ 367, 368, _&c._
+
+  ---- its Walls resembling those of Jericho, 368.
+    _Lewis_ XIV. afraid of its Cellars, _ibid._
+
+  _Uxelles_, Marshal de, 354.
+
+
+          W
+
+  _Wager_, Admiral’s Arrival at _Leghorn_, whither he convoy’d the
+      _Spaniards_, 136.
+
+  _Waldeck_, Prince, 21, 57.
+
+  _Wales_, _Frederic_, Pr. of, 447.
+
+  _Wallingford_, Ld. his Marriage, 240.
+
+  _Walpole_, Sir _Robert_, 450, 451.
+
+  _Walpol_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Walrave_, Colonel, 362.
+
+  _Wartemberg_, Countess de, 409, 410.
+    Her innumerable Adventures of Gallantry, 409.
+
+  _Wassenaars_, of _Holland_, 412.
+
+  _Water-works_, finer than those of _St. Cloud_, 269.
+
+  _Watteville_, Mademoiselle de, 311.
+
+  _Welderen_, Count _de_, 407, 408, 409.
+
+  _Werf, Vander_, a Painter, 359.
+
+  WESEL, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Westminster_ Abbey and Palace, 440, 441.
+
+  _Wetzler_ Chamber, 324.
+
+  _Whitehall_, Palace, 435.
+
+  _Whitworth_, Lady, her smart Rebuke of Cardinal _Corsini_, for
+      pretending to meddle with Houshold Affairs at _Cambray_ Congress,
+      119.
+
+  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_’s Assassination, 425.
+
+  _William_ III. Prince of _Orange_’s Dispute for Precedency with the
+      Count _d’Estrades_, 401.
+
+  ---- Disputes adjusted relating to his Succession, 405, 406.
+
+  ---- _Charles-Henry_, Prince of, 412, 413.
+
+  _Windmills_ of _Holland_, 389.
+
+  _Windsor_ Palace, by whom built, 450.
+
+  _Wirtemberg_, _Lewis_, Pr. of, his, saying to the _Genoese_, about
+      _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  ---- _Alexander_, Pr. of, 307.
+
+  _Wogan_, Mr. in the Pretender’s Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Wolffgang de Neubourgh_, Duke, 359.
+
+  _Wolsey_, Cardinal 450.
+
+  _Women_ Lying-in, a Protection to their Husbands, 396.
+
+  _Worms_, fatal to the Dykes of _Holland_, 392, 393.
+
+  _Wrangel_, Marshal _de_, 309.
+
+  _Wurmbrand_, Count _de_, ibid.
+
+  _Wuytiers Barkman_, Bp. of _Utrecht_, 369.
+
+  _Wynendale_ Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+
+          Z
+
+  ZEIST, _t._ 367.
+
+  ---- Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  _Zuchro_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Zumjungen_, Marshal _de_, 308, 309.
+
+                                _FINIS._
+
+
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[1] His Eminency died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, after which,
+Signior _Thomas Ratto_, and _Ottinelli_, heretofore Auditor of the
+_Rota_, and now Bishop of _Cordoua_, had the Care of the _Spanish_
+Affairs, in which he was succeeded by Cardinal _Acquaviva_.
+
+[2] Now Pope _Clement_ XII. whose Nephews and Nieces dwell in it.
+
+[3] The last Hackney that was presented on the Part of the House of
+_Austria_, was deliver’d by the Prince of _Santa Croce_, whom the
+Emperor appointed for that Ceremony, because _Spain_ having conquer’d
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, the Constable was not willing to concern
+himself in the Affair, before it was finally decided. This was in the
+Year 1734.
+
+[4] He is now a Cardinal and Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+[5] This Princess, who was born _July_ 6. 1702. O. S. died _Jan._ 7.
+1735.
+
+[6] As the Baron above three Years since durst not venture much Money on
+the fulfilling of this Prophecy, we may now say it is not worth a
+Farthing.
+
+[7] His Eminency is return’d to _France_, and succeeded in his Embassy
+by the Duke of _St. Aignan_.
+
+[8] The Death of this Cardinal has been already mention’d. His Successor
+is M. _Ratto_, Bishop of _Cordoua_.
+
+[9] _Henry_ was Son to King _Emanuel_, and _Sebastian_ was Grandson of
+_John_ III. Brother to the Cardinal _Henry_.
+
+[10] He did it however in the Year 1733.
+
+[11] Since these Letters were wrote, he is actually return’d, and
+hitherto he is come but poorly off. Tho’ his Fate be not yet intirely
+determin’d, ’tis certain that he will not be degraded. A Sentence has
+been pass’d upon him, and ratify’d, whereby he is declar’d
+excommunicate, and out of a Possibility of being absolv’d, but by the
+Pope, even _in articulo mortis_; he is also to be confin’d in a
+Fortress, depriv’d of the Power of Speaking or Voting, _&c._ But as
+_omnia venalia Roma_, even more now than in _Jugurtha_’s Time, the
+Cardinal _del Gindici_, who is a Friend of his Eminency _Coscia_, gave
+him to understand, that the Pope was resolv’d to treat him as a Grand
+_Vizier_ in Disgrace; that he must absolutely refund, and that all his
+Sins shou’d be blotted out. Consequently his Eminency submitted to
+implore his Holiness’s Clemency, on Condition of paying well for it; and
+in fine, his Pardon has been tax’d at thirty thousand Ducats. He has
+clamour’d against it not a little; but the Holy Father wou’d not abate
+an Ace of it, and the Cardinal was forc’d to acquiesce; however, as he
+always watches for the Death of the Pope, he desir’d to pay it at
+several Terms; and upon depositing ten thousand Crowns down, he
+immediately receiv’d Absolution, his Guards were taken off, and he had
+Liberty granted him to walk about in the Castle of _St. Angelo_, and to
+converse there with his Brother the Bishop of _Targa_. He pleads
+Poverty, and shuffles off his Payments from one time to another, in
+constant Expectation that the Gout will rise into the Pope’s Stomach,
+and take him out of his Way. At length, in 1734, he paid down ten
+thousand Crowns more. But a Collector of Taxes, from whom he formerly
+receiv’d a great Present to procure him an Acquittance from the Chamber,
+to which he ow’d seventy thousand Crowns, died lately insolvent, and
+without making good the Fraud; and as _Cæsar_, they say, _loses
+nothing_, the Chamber comes upon Cardinal _Coscia_, who is condemn’d to
+pay this Deficiency too, and the Pope won’t hear any Talk of compounding
+it.
+
+[12] He Afterwards created him a Cardinal; but he died at _Benevento_ in
+1733. Nobody after his Death wou’d accept of this Benefice, till the
+Pope gave it to the Abbat _Conti_, a _Roman_, who only took it upon
+Condition that his Holiness wou’d give him a red Hat to boot; which he
+did accordingly, at the last Promotion of Cardinals.
+
+[13] It was publish’d in the News-papers of 1732, that this Gentleman
+was sentenc’d to be beheaded, but that his Holiness had commuted that
+Sentence to ten Years Imprisonment. It was afterwards said in the public
+News, that the Pope had shorten’d it, first, to seven Years, and then to
+three Years Imprisonment. At length the Pope was for removing him to
+_Perousa_, or elsewhere; but the Prelate wou’d not go, and said, If he
+cou’d not have his intire Liberty, he wou’d live and die in the Castle
+of _St. Angelo_.
+
+[14] The Origin of this Ceremony, if we may believe Father _Sirmond_ and
+_Ciccarelli_, was this: It comes from a Custom they had at _Rome_, of
+distributing to the People upon every _Whitsunday_ the Remainder of the
+Paschal Wax-taper, which was consecrated on _Holy Saturday_. The Vulgar,
+who are always superstitious, appropriated several Virtues to this
+consecrated Wax, particularly that ’twas a Preservative against the
+Delusions of the Devil, and the Injuries of Lightning, _&c._ and they
+us’d to burn little Pieces of this Wax in their Houses. There being not
+enough left of the Paschal Wax-taper to satisfy the Cravings of the
+People, the Archdeacon took it into his Head to take some other Wax,
+which he sprinkled with Oil, bless’d it, and made little Bits of it in
+the Form of a Lamb, and then distributed them to the People. Afterwards
+they only flatted those Pieces of Wax, and impress’d ’em with the Stamp
+of a Lamb bearing the Standard of the Cross. They believe that none but
+such as are in Orders have the Power to touch them, and they are cover’d
+neatly with embroider’d Stuff to be given to the Laity. There is nothing
+by which the Monks more successfully impose upon the Credulous; for to
+such they distribute _Agnus Dei_’s that were never on t’other Side of
+the _Alps_.
+
+[15] He is the Pope’s Vicechamberlain.
+
+[16] When he was at the Congress at _Cambray_, he had a Fancy to
+regulate every Plenipotentiary’s Houshold; and indeed, that was all he
+did there. One Day he took it into his Head to give his Œconomical Rules
+at my Lord _Whitworth_’s, but he did not find my Lady very compliant;
+for, said she, M. _le Marquis, We make use of the +Italians+ to regulate
+our +Concerts+; but as for the Table, pray give us leave to consult the
++French+._
+
+[17] Cardinal _Grimani_ succeeded Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ in the
+Legateship of _Bologna_, as soon as the present Pope had created him a
+Cardinal; but he died in the Legateship, and his Holiness conferr’d it
+upon _John Baptist Spinola_, whom he had just before advanc’d to the
+Purple.
+
+[18] Nevertheless there is a Difference between these two Families: The
+Duke _Ferdinand_ the last Survivor of that of _Kettler_, but of the
+Family of _Medicis_ there are Princes still living, who have an
+incontestable Right to the Succession; for ’tis certain, that _Bernard
+de Medicis_, the eldest Brother of Pope _Leo_ XI. descended from
+_Juvenco de Medicis_, Brother of _Sylvester Clarissimus_, the Head of
+the present reigning Branch, which _Bernard de Medicis_ was the Son of
+_Ottaviano_, the last Standard-bearer of _Florence_ in 1528. This
+_Bernard_ purchas’d the Barony of _Ottajano_ near Mount _Vesuvius_ in
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, to which he transferr’d this Branch of the
+_Medicis_; and the present Prince of _Ottajano_, and Duke of _Sarno_,
+who married _Theresa_, Daughter of _Charles_ Prince of _Acquaviva_, is
+his Great Great Grandson.
+
+[19] The Count _de Charni_ signs N. _d’Orleans C. de Charni_. He is a
+Bastard of the _Orleans_ Family, but by whom is not known. He has
+advanc’d himself at the Court of _Spain_, and is now Commandant of
+_Naples_, and Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom.
+
+[20] This Prince went thro’ _France_, and arriv’d at _Florence_ the
+Beginning of the Year 1732.
+
+[21] This young Prince died in 1734, as his illustrious Uncle did in the
+Year following.
+
+[22] The _Spaniards_ took it at the Beginning of the War, and ’twas the
+first of their Exploits.
+
+[23] _Giafferi_ did all he could; but was obliged to submit to Force,
+the Republic being assisted by the Troops which the Emperor had
+assembled in _Lombardy_, to oppose the Enterprizes he was then
+apprehensive of from the _Spaniards_. _Giafferi_ was arrested, but by a
+great deal of Art and Cunning he obtain’d his Freedom, after the
+_Genoese_ thought the _Corsicans_ were disarmed, destitute of Leaders,
+and reduced to a Sense of their Duty; and he retired to _Tuscany_. But
+the _Corsicans_ being no better treated than they were before their
+Accommodation, took up Arms again, upon which _Giafferi_ procured them
+all manner of Assistance, and actually returned to that Island, and put
+himself at the Head of the Malecontents, who seemed to have a fair
+Chance of regaining their Liberties. They were so uppish in Expectation
+of foreign Assistance, that they rejected some new Concessions made to
+them by the _Genoese_, in _Dec, 1734_, declar’d _Aitelli_ General of the
+Forces, and one _Costa_, a Man of great Intrigues, General-Auditor of
+the Island; and, at the same time, made Proposals to the King of _Spain_
+to take them under his Protection, having renounced all Subjection to
+the Republic of _Genoa_, declar’d themselves a free and independent
+People, and resolv’d to defend their Liberties to the last Man. At
+length they receiv’d some Recruits of Money and Ammunition by one
+_Theodore_, who call’d himself the Baron _de Neuhoff_, and arriv’d in
+_March_ 1736. on Board an _English_ Ship from _Tunis_; but in the Name
+of what Power he acted, is as yet a Mystery. He had the Success to be
+proclaim’d King of _Corsica_, and Copper Money was coin’d there with his
+Effigies; but he has since been obliged to abandon the Island; and the
+_French_ have taken upon them to accommodate Matters between the
+_Genoese_ and _Corsicans_. It must be left to Time, to shew whether the
+_Genoese_ will have Reason to be pleased with this formidable Mediation.
+After all, that Republic has too much Cause to remember the Saying of
+Prince _Lewis_ of _Wirtemberg_, who, when he return’d with the Imperial
+Troops from suppressing the former Rebellion, told them, That the Island
+was not worth the Expences which the Republic had been at in reducing
+the _Corsicans_, and what they must be at continually to keep them in
+Subjection.
+
+[24] The Prince had a Kindness for Mademoiselle _de Cumiane_, before she
+was married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, when she was Maid of Honour
+to Madame Royale. She was afterwards a Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Savoy_, and at last Tire-Woman to the Princess of _Piedmont_, late
+Queen of _Sardinia_. She has been a Widow since 1723. After she was
+married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, she still preserv’d the King’s
+Friendship and Esteem, and was always in great Credit with him. When she
+became a Widow, the old Flames of Love broke out again; the King gave
+her an Apartment at Court, where he cou’d see her without being seen,
+and he took Care of her Family.
+
+[25] ’Tis said, that the real Motive of this Abdication was his
+Perplexity on Account of the Succession of _Parma_ and _Tuscany_, and
+the Introduction of the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_. They say he
+had enter’d into Engagements relating to this Affair, first with the
+Court of _Vienna_, and afterwards with _Spain_; and it not being
+possible for him to satisfy either of those Courts without exposing
+himself to the Resentment of the other, he resolved to abdicate, at
+least for a Time, because he knew of no other Way to extricate himself
+from the Dilemma.
+
+[26] The Abdication was performed the 3d of _September_, in the Castle
+of _Rivoli_. The declar’d Motives, were the Fatigues of a Reign of fifty
+Years, the Infirmities of old Age, and the Necessity of some Interval of
+Retirement, between a Throne and a Tomb.
+
+[27] The King was not marry’d to the Countess of _St. Sebastian_, till
+he came to _Chamberry_, where she met him; for he set out from _Turin_
+without her. When he marry’d her, he gave her one hundred thousand
+Crowns, with which she purchased the Marquisate of _Spigo_ for her
+Children, and then exchang’d her Title of Countess of _St. Sebastian_
+for that of Marchioness of _Spigo_.
+
+[28] _Victor Amedeus_ took it into his Head to reascend the Throne, as
+soon as he heard of the Conclusion of the Treaty of _Vienna_, by which
+the Emperor consented to the Introduction of the _Spaniards_. He then
+let the Marchioness _del Spigo_ into the true Motives of his Abdication,
+and into the Measures he intended to take for reascending the Throne.
+This ambitious Woman encourag’d him, and being withal a very cunning
+intriguing Person, she left no Stone unturn’d to bring a Project to
+bear, which would set her on the Throne; and she engag’d all her Friends
+and Relations in the Affair, of whom some betray’d her.
+
+[29] These Proofs were his sending for the Marquis _del Borgo_ to
+_Montcallier_, demanding the Instrument of Abdication from him, giving
+him but twelve Hours time to fetch it, and his appearing before the
+Citadel of _Turin_, with a View of getting into it, and of animating the
+Garison to assist him in his Enterprise.
+
+[30] These were all Privy Counsellors and Great Men, who being assembled
+by Order of the King, and consulted on the imminent Danger of his being
+dethron’d were all of Opinion for putting _Victor Amedeus_ and his
+Consort under an Arrest.
+
+[31] He died _Oct._ 31. 1732.
+
+[32] She died _Jan._ 13. 1735. and his Majesty has since married Sister
+of the present Great Duke of _Tuscany_.
+
+[33] There is now but one Prince, the youngest being dead; but there are
+three Princesses.
+
+[34] This is the Cardinal _Ferrera_, Bishop of _Verceil_.
+
+[35] This wou’d be very extraordinary, as Mr. _Addison_ observes, were
+it not for other neighbouring Mountains that rise above it.
+
+[36] This shews another Mistake of _Misson_, who says this Side is the
+most rugged.
+
+[37] The _French_ are not the only People who boast of the Grandeur and
+other Advantages of _Lyons_, as appears from this Epigram by _Scaliger_.
+
+_Flumineis Rhodanus qua se fugat incitus undis, Quaque pigro dubitat
+flumine mitis Arar, Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus orbis in orbe,
+Lugdunumque vetus orbis in orbe novo. Quod nolis, alibi quaras; hic
+quare quod optas: Aut hic, aut nusquam, vincre vota potes. Lugduni
+quodcunque potest dare mundus habebis: Plura petas, hac urbs & tibi
+plura dabit._
+
+i. e.
+
+_Where +Rhone+ impetuous rolls, and where the slow And gentle +Sâon+
+with milder Streams does flow, There +Lyons+ stands; where we united
+find, What scatter’d thro’ the World delights the Mind; And if you still
+seek more with greedy eye, +Lyons+ can ev’n more Wonders still supply._
+
+[38] Her Amours with M. _de Lauzun_ have made a great Noise.
+
+[39] This Misfortune came upon the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_, merely
+from a Suspicion which the Regent entertain’d, that the Duke had a Hand
+in the pretended Conspiracy of the Prince of _Cellamare_, the Ambassador
+of _Spain_; which, they said, was to remove the Duke of _Orleans_ from
+the Regency, and to vest it in the King of _Spain_, who wou’d have put
+the Duke of _Maine_ in his Place, according to _Lewis_ XIVth’s last
+Will. The bare Suspicion however amounted to fix the Guilt upon this
+Prince, and all that belong’d to him. It were to be wish’d, that some
+Eye-witness of what was then transacted at Court, and in _Bretagne_,
+wou’d give the Public an exact Account of it.
+
+[40] The Friar, who in the other Orders is a Prior, is call’d a Minister
+in this Order, which it better known in _France_ by the Name of the
+_Mathurias_.
+
+[41] In all Appearance, the _Latin_ Name _Lutetia_ comes from
+_Leucothecia_, which signifies _white Town_, a Name that _Strabo_ gives
+to this City, the Houses of which were plaister’d. By Abbreviation it
+was call’d _Lutetia_. As to the Name _Paris_, ’tis certain, that it
+comes from _Para-Isis_, near _Isis_, a well-known Goddess, who had
+several Temples in this Canton; where she was so particularly
+worshipp’d, that from her Name the Inhabitants were call’d
+_Para-Isians_, the Neighbours of _Isis_. They, who have carefully
+examin’d the Gate of the _Carmelites_ Church, and the Building of its
+Chapel, will own, that it was formerly the Temple of this Goddess; whose
+Statue, in Iron, holding a Handful of Ears of Corn, is still on the
+Front of the Building.
+
+[42] The Author does not say _whither_ nor _from whence_ those Sheep are
+stray’d. All those Sheep feed in the same Pasture, or at least, there
+are but few of ’em that feed in the Pastures to which M. _de Vintimille_
+could wish to bring the others. Some Slanderers don’t scruple to say,
+that this _good_ Prelate gives himself more Uneasiness about the
+_Excellency of the Dishes_ at his Table, than the Goodness of the
+Pasture for his Sheep: For he has been seen to give the same Welcome to
+the _Jesuits_, and the _Fathers of the Oratory_, to the _Capuchins_ and
+the _Benedictins_, &c. For the Sake of such of our Readers as have a
+Taste for _French_ Poetry, we insert the following _Epigram_; which was
+made upon this Prelate’s Mandate in Favour of the Constitution:
+
+_Le Public est un Sot, d’être scandalisé Du Mandement que +Vintimille+
+Vient de repandre dans la Ville, Me disoit ce Matin un Docteur avisé! Il
+est, dit il, d’Usage indispensable, Pour qu’un Saint soit canonisé,
+D’entendre l’Avocat du Diable._
+
+[43] This is a Thing in Question; and the Negative seems to be plainly
+proved by the Opinions of the Counsellors of the Parlement, all Men of
+unexceptionable Character, who voted for putting the Reverend Father to
+Death.
+
+[44] He is now Archbishop of _Sens_, and very well known for the famous
+Story of _Maria Aliacoque_, a celebrated Saint of his own making.
+
+[45] The Count _de Gergy_ died in 1733 in his Embassy, and was succeeded
+by the Count _de Froulay_.
+
+[46] As the Parson of St. _Sulpice_ stretches his Invention to the
+utmost, how to allure the Multitude, in 1734 he out-did all that he had
+ever done before, so that his Procession was more like the March of an
+Army than any thing else, because of the many Trumpets, Kettle-drums,
+Hunting-horns, _&c._ which made the Air echo with their Flourishes. It
+may by Degrees come to be like the Processions at _Cambray_, _Antwerp_,
+_Brussels_, and other Towns of the _Netherlands_; where, to the Scandal
+of the Christian Religion, we see the Revival of all the Impertinencies
+of the Pagan.
+
+[47] The Mode of _Bagnolette_, _i. e._ Bathing-tubs, came from this
+Village, to which the Country-women carry them.
+
+[48] _Philippa Elisabeth_ of _Orleans_. She died of the Small-pox _May_
+21, 1734. unmarried, and universally lamented.
+
+[49] _Louisa Diana_ of _Orleans_. She was married in 1732. to _Lewis_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conti_, by whom she had a Son, born _Sept._ 1,
+1734. while the Prince was in the King’s Army upon the _Rhine_.
+
+[50] It should have been observ’d in the Article of _Turin_, that this
+Queen died the second of _January_, 1735, O. S. and the King has since
+marry’d the eldest Sister of the present Duke of _Lorain_.
+
+[51] He is married since 1732, to _Louisa-Diana_ of _Orleans_, youngest
+Daughter of the late Regent.
+
+[52] The Origin of the Fable is this. _Mehemed Ben Aschen_, or the Son
+of _Aschen_, Admiral of _Sale_, was deputed from the King of _Morocco_,
+but I know not in what Year, to the Court of _France_. When this Corsair
+was at _Paris_, he heard great Talk of the Princess of _Conti_’s Beauty,
+and of the particular Affection which the King had for her: In order to
+ingratiate himself with the _French_, he gave out, that the Emperor his
+Master having seen the Picture of that Princess among other Effects
+which belong’d to a Christian who was taken into Slavery, he thought her
+the most beautiful of her Sex; and that his _Moorish_ Majesty said, That
+if he had such a Lady in his Seraglio, he should never desire any other.
+_Mehemed_’s Story was presently carried far and near, but it was told
+quite different from the Truth; for it was reported in a very little
+time, that he was come to demand the Princess in Marriage for _Muley
+Ismael_ his Master. As there seem’d to be something mysterious in the
+Picture, a Messenger was sent in all Haste to the Ambassador’s Lodgings,
+to know the Name of the Slave from whom it was taken; but his
+_Mahometan_ Excellency so prevaricated, that his Answer was far from
+being satisfactory. Nevertheless, his pretended Demand of this Princess
+was so much the Subject of Conversation among the _French_ for several
+Months, that according to the Custom of this People, they at length made
+a Sonnet upon it, which follows.
+
+To the Tune of _Je ne suis né ni Roi ni Prince_.
+
+_Votre beauté, grande Princesse, Porte les traits dont l’Amour blesse,
+Jusques aux plus sauvages dieux: L’Afrique avec vous capitule, Et les
+conquétes de vos yeux Vont plus loin que celles d’Hercule._
+
+_S’il est bien vrai qu’il vous adore, Que je plains ce pauvre Roi Maure,
+D’être sensible à vos appas! En vain envers vous il s’explique; La
+France ne donnera pas Son Ange au Diable de l’Afrique._
+
+Which may be thus English’d,
+
+_Your Beauty, Great Princess, Carries Love’s killing Shafts To Nations
+the most savage; +Afric+ with you capitulates, And the Conquests of your
+Eyes Even those of +Hercules+ surmount._
+
+_If it be true that he adores you, How do I pity the poor Negro King,
+Who is so smitten with your Charms! In vain he makes his Passion known
+to you; For sure +France+ will never give Her Angel to the Devil of
++Africa+._
+
+[53] ’Tis a Letter _from a Gentleman retir’d from the World, to a Friend
+of his_, wherein he celebrates the happy Innocence, and the Freedom of
+his tranquil Retreat, in a Style that cannot but be pleasing to the
+Admirers of _French_ Poetry; and for their Sakes we insert the Original,
+with only an _English_ Paraphrase in the Margin.
+
+Je vois regner sur ce rivage The Author begins with expressing
+L’Innocence et la Liberté. his Surprise at the Concurrence Que d’Objects
+dans ce paisage, of Objects of different Qualities Malgre leur
+contrarieté, in his Retirement; such as M’étonnent par leur Assémbláge!
+Abundance with Frugality, Abondante frugalité, Authority with
+Indulgence, Riches Autorité sans Esclaváge with Sobriety, Richesses sans
+Libertinagé, Charges, Noblesse, sans fuerté. Honours with Humility: And
+having Mon choix est fait, ce voisinage therefore fix’d on this Spot for
+Détermine ma volonté. his Residence, he implores the Bienfaisante
+Divinité, Sanction of the Divine Providence Ajoutez y votre suffrage. to
+his Choice.
+
+Disciple de l’Adversité, Here he says, that having been Je viens faire
+dans le village train’d-up in the School of Le volontaire apprentissage
+Adversity, he prefers a voluntary D’une tardive obscurité. Obscurity in
+the Village; that he Aussi bien, de mon plus bel âge has experienc’d the
+Instability of J’apperçois l’instabilité. Youth; that he has seen the
+Return J’ai deja, de compte arrêté, of 40 Springs, which he regrets
+Quarante fois vu le feuillage that he has so ill improv’d; and Par le
+Zéphyr ressuscité. promises to make a better Use of Du Printems j’ai mal
+profité: the Summer of his Life. J’en ai regret; et de l’Eté Je veux
+faire un meilleur usage.
+
+J’apporte dans mon Hermitage, He says he brings to his Hermitage Un cœur
+des longtems rebuté a Heart which has been for a long Du prompt et
+funeste esclavage, Time the fatal Slave of foolish Fruit de la folle
+vanité. Vanity; but that now he is become Paisan sans rusticité, a
+Peasant without Clownishness, a Hermite sans patelinage, Hermit without
+Bigotry; and that Mon but est la tranquillité. Tranquillity being his
+Aim, he Je veux pour unique partage, desires no other Portion in Life La
+paix d’un cœur qui se dégage but the Peace of his Mind, Des filets de la
+Volupté. disentangled from the Snares of Pleasure.
+
+L’incorruptible probité, Here he declares, that De mes Ayeux noble
+Heritage, incorruptible Probity, the noble A la Cour ne m’a point
+quitté. Inheritance he deriv’d from his Libre et franc, sans être
+sauvage, Ancestors, did not forsake him at Du Courtisan fourbe et volage
+Court, where being frank and free, L’exemple ne m’a point gâté, without
+being rude, the Example of L’infatigable activité, the crafty giddy
+Courtier had not tainted him. He observes the good Effect of his former
+Miscarriage; that it has made him active and indefatigable; and he hopes
+Reste d’un utile naufrage, from henceforwards to be happy in Mes Etudes,
+mon Jardinage, his Studies, in his Garden, and Un Repas sans art
+appreté, in a plain Diet dress’d by his D’une Epouse œconome et sage
+frugal prudent Wife, whose good La belle humeur, le bon ménage, Nature
+is equal to her Œconomy. Vont faire ma félicité.
+
+C’est dans ce Port, qu’en sureté In this Port, says he, my Vessel Ma
+Barque ne craint point l’orage. dreads no Storm. Let who will defy Qu’un
+autre à son tour emporté, the Rage of the Winds, while he Au gré de sa
+cupidité, coasts along the Shore, I laugh at Sur le sein de l’humide
+plage, his Presumption, and wish him a Des Vents ose affronter la rage;
+good Voyage; but reserve my Je ris de sa témerité, Courage for a more
+important Et lui souhaite un bon voyage. Passage, and approach with Je
+réserve ma fermeté Boldness to the Gates of Eternity. Pour un plus
+important passage; Et je m’approche avec courage, Des portes de
+l’Eternité.
+
+Je sai que la mortalité The Poet concludes with a Du Genre humain est
+l’appanage: Reflection, that since Mortality Pourquoi seul serois-je
+excepté? is intail’d upon all Mankind, why La vie est un pelerinage:
+should he alone think to be De son cours la rapidité, exempted? And he
+says, that since Loin de m’alarmer, me soulage. Life is but a
+Pilgrimage, the De sa fin, quand je l’envisage, Rapidity of its Race,
+instead of L’infallible necessité alarming, comforts him; and that Ne me
+sauroit faire d’outrage. the infallible Necessity of his Brulez de l’Or
+empaqueté, Death, when he seriously considers Il n’en perit que
+l’embalage: the Matter, is no more an Injury C’est tour. Un si leger
+dommage to him, than the burning of a Bale Devroit-il être regreté? of
+Gold is to the Metal, which remains intire, tho’ the Case that contains
+it is consum’d; which, he adds, is too trifling a Loss to be regarded.
+
+
+[54] The King gave this young Duke, when he was but nine Years old, the
+Reversion of the Post of Great Admiral, for a New-Year’s Gift, on the
+first of _January_ 1734. He is handsome, well-set, all Life and Spirit,
+and gives very fair Hopes of being a great Man.
+
+[55] As soon as he arrived, the Place _de Vendosme_, or the Square of
+_Lewis le Grand_, where M. _Daguesseau_ liv’d, was set apart for the
+Stock-jobbing Trade, which was before carried on in the Street
+_Quinquempoix_; and one Morning, a Paper was found at the Chancellor’s
+Door, with these Words, _Et homo factus est, & habitabit cum nobis_.
+
+[56] He is actually join’d in the Administration with the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, who was very glad to nominate a Person for his Coadjutor.
+
+[57] He died some time ago at _Paris_, very much lamented by all that
+knew him.
+
+[58] The present Archbishop of _Ambrun_, famous for his Zeal for the
+Constitution, for the Persecution of the Bishop of _Senez_, and for his
+little Council at _Ambrun_.
+
+[59] He died at _Maestricht_ in the Year 1734, a Cornet in the Regiment
+of the Prince of _Orange-Friseland_. But Mr. _Law_ has left an amiable
+Daughter, who has had a fine Education, and married to Lord
+_Wallingford_, Son to the Earl of _Banbury_.
+
+[60] These Verses are not in the first Edition of these Memoirs, but are
+added, by the Bookseller, to the second.
+
+[61] _James Nompar_ of _Caument_, Duke _de la Force_, an assiduous
+humble Servant of Mr. _Law_, and who, by his Management, during the
+_Missisippi_ Scheme, drew a great many Pasquinades upon himself, of
+which this is not the severest.
+
+[62] The Abbé _Terrasson_, who wrote in Favour of the Scheme.
+
+[63] _Law_ had three Cocks for his Arms.
+
+[64] As these Lines will not admit of a Version to the Satisfaction of
+an _English_ Reader, ’tis sufficient to acquaint him, that they are a
+Satire upon the Humour which prevail’d at that Time, among People of all
+Ranks, from the Duke to his Scullion, to be Adventurers in Mr. _Law_’s
+Scheme; a Madness which was contemporary, and equally mischievous with
+the Delusion that was so predominant in our own Country, in that fatal
+Year of 1720, when so many People were, as we may term it, cast away in
+the _South-Sea_, and the lesser Whirlpools, call’d _Bubbles_, of which
+there was almost an infinite Number.
+
+[65] This, with the Calculation annexed to it, is an Addition by the
+Editor, to the second Edition, which was not in the first Edition of
+these Memoirs.
+
+[66] There was a Label affixed to the Gate of the _Palais_ Royal, with
+these Words, _Esurientes implevit bonis, & Divites dimisit inanes_, i.
+e. The Hungry he hath fill’d with good Things, but the Rich he hath sent
+empty away.
+
+[67] He was of the _Lorain_ Family, and was succeeded in his Office of
+Master of the Horse by his Son Prince _Charles_.
+
+[68] The King of _France_ having declar’d War against the Emperor in
+1733, in Conjunction with the Kings of _Spain_ and _Sardinia_, his
+Majesty gave the Marshal _de Villars_ the Command of his Army in
+_Italy_; to which Country he repair’d after the Conquest of the
+_Milanese_ had been very far advanc’d. He took _Pizzighitone_; but the
+Imperial Army being at length form’d, the Count _de Merci_, who
+commanded it, having taken the Field with it on a sudden, by passing the
+_Po_, made so many Motions, that the old Marshal, being forc’d to be
+_every-where_, according to his old Phrase, fell sick upon it, and was
+oblig’d to leave the Army. Some do not stick to say, that he had Orders
+for it from Court, where his Conduct was not approv’d: Be this as it
+will, his Distemper growing worse upon his Arrival at _Turin_, he died
+there the 17th of _June_ 1734, in the 84th Year of his Age, in the same
+Room, as ’tis said, where he was born, his Father the Marquis _de
+Villars_ being then there by Order of the King. In 1702 he married
+_Joanna-Angelica Roque de Varengeville_, whose Father was the King’s
+Ambassador at _Venice_. The Family of _Villars_ is originally of
+_Lyons_, and first began to be distinguish’d in the Person of _Claude de
+Villars_, Lord of _Chapelle_, and _Masclas_, second Son to _Francis de
+Villars_, born about _Ann._ 1516. The Marshal was to the last a Man of
+uncommon Gaiety and Gallantry; for whether Fighting or Dancing, he
+appear’d with the same Vivacity and good Humour, and seem’d an Enemy to
+none except the Jesuits. What did not consist with such a Temper, was
+his Love of Money; and he inrich’d himself too much by the Spoils of
+War, and the Contributions he used to raise for Safe-guards, _&c._ But
+as for his Soldier-like Character, this one Story of him may suffice; In
+1702 the Marshal order’d his Army to pass the _Rhine_ at _Haguenau_, the
+same Night that he invited several Gentlemen and ladies to a Ball, where
+he danc’d till two o’Clock in the Morning, and then mounted his Horse
+unobserv’d, and follow’d his Army; with which he surprised the Prince of
+_Baden_, and fought a Battle by the Time the Ball was broke up; for
+which Action the King gave him the Marshal’s Batoon. The Conquests of
+_Milan_ and other Places in _Italy_, which he made in 1733, were
+accompany’d also with Dancing and Balls; but Age and Infirmities, at
+last, made a Conquest of him. His Memory and his Judgment so fail’d him,
+that he became troublesome to the Army; but his fighting Humour still
+prevail’d, and he would have endanger’d all, had not the King of
+Sardinia prevail’d on the King of _France_ to recall him. However, the
+King of _Sardinia_ took Leave of him in the Field with great Civility,
+and at his Arrival at _Turin_, where he fell ill of a Dysentery,
+accompany’d with a Fever, of which he died, he was receiv’d very
+graciously by the late Queen, who presented him with a Diamond Sword,
+valued at 300 Pistoles.
+
+The following Sonnet was presented to the Marshal, when he set out for
+_Italy_.
+
+_Villars, tes grands Exploits qui sauverent la France, Dans les Siecles
+futurs t’immortaliseront. La Paix fut le doux fruit de ta haute
+prudence; Mais de nouveaux Lauriers doivent ceindre ton front._
+
+_Le Pere de ton Roi, l’Espagne & le Piémont, Sur toi seul aujourd’hui
+fondent leurs Esperances. Arme ton bras vainquer, cours venger leur
+affront; L’Allemand pourra-i-il soutenir ta présence?_
+
+_Les grands Cœurs en tout tems conservent leur valeur, L’Age respecte en
+eux leur prémiere vigueur, Ils savent s’affranchir des Loix de la
+Nature:_
+
+_Semblables aux Lauriers que leur main va cueillir, Qui des ans, des
+saisons ne craiguent point l’injure, Les Héros ont le droit le ne jamais
+vieillir._
+
+i. e.
+
+_+Villars+, thy great Exploits, which sav’d all +France+, In future Ages
+will immortalise thee. The Peace was the kind Product of thy great
+Wisdom; But new Laurels are still to deck thy Brow._
+
+_The Father of thy King, +Spain+, and +Piedmont+ too, Upon thee alone do
+now found all their Hopes. Haste with thy conqu’ring Arm their Quarrel
+to avenge; Will +Germany+ be able to withstand thy Presence?_
+
+_Great Souls always retain their Valour; To their former Vigour Age
+itself pays a Respect; They can shake off the Yoke of Nature’s Laws._
+
+_Like to the Laurels gather’d by their Hands, Which are Proof against
+the Injuries of Years and Seasons, Heroes never stoop to old Age._
+
+[69] By Mrs. _Arabella Churchill_, Sister to the late Duke of
+_Marlborough_.
+
+[70] The King, having appointed the Marshal _de Villars_ to command in
+_Italy_, thought fit to send the Marshal _de Berwic_ to oppose Prince
+_Eugene_, whom the Emperor had nominated for the Command on the _Rhine_.
+He began the Siege of _Philipsburg_; but on the first of _June_, O. S.
+1734, as he went to take a View of the Trenches, he was kill’d with a
+Cannon Ball between his two Grandsons. He is succeeded in all his Titles
+by his Son the Duke _de Liria_, now Duke of _Berwic_, _&c._ who has been
+lately at the Court of _Naples_.
+
+It will be doing no Dishonour to the Marshal, to say he made War his
+Trade, which he studied with an unwearied Application; and as he never
+wanted Courage, so none had more military Knowledge. Having consider’d
+War as a Science, he left little to Chance, or even Bravery; but
+depended upon Skill and Discipline, which was the Thing that gain’d him
+the Battle of _Almanza_. As he was so regular and mechanical a Warrior,
+he was himself the Life and Soul of his Army, not as he was belov’d, but
+as he was much fear’d by his Soldiers, whom he never spar’d, and least
+of all, his own Countrymen, that came to serve in _France_. He was
+reserved even to his General Officers, rarely consulting them, nor so
+much as communicating the Orders he had receiv’d, or the Designs he had
+projected, but as they had their own Parts to execute in them. Tho’ he
+was the best regular General of his Time, yet he was the least
+enterprizing one. He was never a great Favourite at the Court of
+_France_, which is something to be wonder’d at, considering the Use he
+was made of upon every Occasion; for as a Soldier of Fortune, he had no
+Obligations but for his Appointments; and yet attach’d himself to
+_France_ preferably to any other Nation. As he was bred up in the War
+against the _English_, his Enmity to them became a second Nature, which
+is suppos’d to be the Reason that he never did one of that Nation any
+Service, beside those of his own Family. As the Marshal took care to be
+obey’d by the Officers and Soldiers of the Armies he commanded, he was
+always obsequious himself to the Orders of the Court, of which there
+needs no other Proof, than the Instance above-mention’d; when he
+appear’d in Arms against _Spain_ with Alacrity, after he had receiv’d
+the highest Honours from King _Philip_.
+
+He had the Title of Duke of _Berwic_, and likewise the Garter conferr’d
+on him by King _James_. He was born in 1671, so that when he died, he
+was sixty-three Years of Age.
+
+[71] The Family of _Estrées_, originally of _Picardy_, was in Possession
+of the Dignities of the Crown before _Gabriella_; for her Grandfather
+was Great Master of the Artillery of _France_.
+
+[72] This is the common Name in _Italy_ for Interpreters or Expounders
+of Antiquities.
+
+[73] Here should have been added, _of the Poet_ Paul Scarron. She was
+the Daughter of _Constans d’Aubigny_, Baron of _Surincan_, and of _Joan
+de Cardillac_. _Charles d’Aubigny_, Governor of _Berry_, and Knight of
+the King’s Orders, who died in 1703, was her Brother. Her Grandfather
+was _Theodore Agrippa d’Aubigny_, Admiral of _Bretagne_ and _Guienne_,
+celebrated for his Zeal for the Protestant Religion, and Author of a
+_History of his own Time_, of the _Confession_ of _Saney_, and of the
+Baron _de Faneste_. Every body knows, that the Attachment of his Widow
+_Scarron_ to Madame _de Montespan_, made her Way to _Lewis_ XIV. who was
+so pleas’d with her Humour, that she continued in the highest Favour
+till that Monarch’s Death; and enjoy’d a Pension of 50,000 Livres, which
+was punctually paid her by _Lewis_ XV. every Year as long as she liv’d.
+After her Death, the Duke de _Noailles_ became Marquis _de Maintenon_ in
+Right of his Wife.
+
+[74] This alludes to a Joke of the President _de Harlai_, who when he
+was accosted by the Comedians, in the Name of their _Troop_, which that
+worthy Gentleman never car’d for, especially since _Tartuffe_, and the
+Comedians saying to him, _My Lord, the_ Company _of Comedians_, &c. The
+President made Answer, _Gentlemen_, the Troop _of the Parliament_, &c.
+
+[75] The Author refers here to the Works directed by Mr. BENSON, one of
+the present Auditors of the Imprest (for which see p. 67. of the First
+Volume of these Memoirs).
+
+[76] The Bottle called the Holy Phial, is kept at _Rheims_, in the Tomb
+of St. _Remy_, in the Church of that Name. It has not been filled since
+the Coronation of _Clovis_, when ’tis said this Phial was brought from
+Heaven, with the Oil with which that first Christian King of _France_
+was consecrated; and the Frier who shews it at _Rheims_, says very
+seriously, That when the King is sick, it dries away; so that when he
+dies, there is not a Drop left in the Bottle; but that as soon as his
+Successor is proclaimed, it fills again of its own Accord. I tell you no
+more than what I heard with my own Ears, and tho’ I could not help
+smiling at it, the Frier was not angry. The Liquefaction of this Oil is
+altogether as miraculous as that of St. _Januarius_’s Blood at _Naples_.
+
+[77] The Abbé _de Vayrac_ was of a good Family in _Guienne_, and had all
+the Vivacity natural to that Province, which stood him in the stead of
+Wit; but it was of the abusive Kind. If ever an Author was a Plagiary,
+he was. He published a _State_ of _Spain_, and a _State_ of the Empire;
+which last brought him under an ignominious Sentence of the Court of
+_Vienna_. He had also composed a History of _Portugal_, which he could
+not obtain a Licence for Printing, because it appear’d that he had paid
+greater Compliments in it to the _Portuguese_, than to the _French_. He
+died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, as he returned from a Journey he
+had made to _Holland_.
+
+[78] In 1643.
+
+[79] This famous Counsellor was restor’d not long after, at the pressing
+Instances of his Brethren, and has merited the Elogiums of the Minister
+himself, as well as of all _France_.
+
+[80] _Pucelage_ is the _French_ Word for _Virginity_.
+
+[81] Neither was he included in the Promotion of the four Marshals of
+_France_, which the King made in 1734, tho’ he had served with great
+Bravery ever since the Beginning of the last War between _France_ and
+_Germany_.
+
+[82] This Minister pleases them to Perfection. They all like his
+Behaviour, and the Diligence with which he dispatches Business. In a
+Word, he is beloved and adored.
+
+[83] In _November_ 1736, she was delivered of a Son.
+
+[84] Prince _Christian_ II. Son of the Prince _de la Tour_. He resigned
+his Canonship of Cologn, on purpose to serve in the Emperor’s Army.
+
+[85] The Marshal _de Zumjungen_ dy’d the 25th of _August_ 1732. The
+Count _de Wurmbrand_ commanded till another was appointed.
+
+[86] _Gand_ signifies _Ghent_ in the _German_, and _Glove_ in the
+_English_.
+
+[87] He is the Great Great Grandson of Prince _Maurice_, by the Lady _de
+Malines_.
+
+[88] The Emperor lately appointed him to relieve the Count _de Sastago_,
+Viceroy of _Sicily_, at the Time that Don _Carlos_, King of _Naples_,
+went to make a Descent upon _Sicily_, with twenty thousand Men, under
+the Command of the Count _de Montemar_, Duke of _Bitonto_.
+
+[89] M. _d’Amerongen_, who is descended of one of the best Families in
+the Province of _Utrecht_, having lost his elder Brother, who was in the
+Regency, has quitted his Service to succeed him in the Government.
+
+[90] It was burnt quite to the Ground in the Beginning of the Year 1734.
+
+[91] VOL. I. LETTER V.
+
+[92] He succeeded _Francis Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, Elector of _Mentz_, who
+was chose Grand Master the 12th of _July_ 1694, In the Room of his
+Brother, _Lewis Anthony_ of _Neubourg_; and he is the fourteenth Grand
+Master since the Defection of _Prussia_, formerly the Seat of this
+Order, which has existed ever since the Year 1190; when it was
+instituted in the Holy Land, by _Henry_ King of _Jerusalem_. A Duke of
+_Masovia_, having invited to his House _Herman de Salsza_, the fourth
+Grand Master of the new Order, chose in 1210, he gave him, and his
+Knights, Lands upon the Frontiers of _Prussia_; the Inhabitants whereof
+being _Pagans_, did great Mischief to his Subjects, and he promised to
+leave them all the Lands that they conquered from those People, which
+the Emperor and the Pope confirmed. Before the Year 1250, they took
+_Prussia_, _Courland_, and a Part of _Livonia_; and put all the _Pagans_
+to Death that refused to turn Christian. The _Teutonic_ Knights, being
+driven out of the Holy Land, by the taking of _Acre_, went and
+established the principal House of their Order at _Marpurg_, in the
+Beginning of the fourteenth Century; from whence they transferred it to
+_Marienbourg_ in _Prussia_. The Order made such a rapid Progress, that
+in the Beginning of the following Century, it was in a Condition to
+oppose _Jagellon_, King of _Poland_, with an Army of eighty-three
+thousand Men; which that Prince, _Anno_ 1410, cut in Pieces. After that
+time the Order was scarce ever at Peace, but was always at Variance,
+either with the _Poles_, or the _Lithuanians_, or with the _Russians_,
+or with its own Subjects; till it was obliged to make a dishonourable
+Peace in 1446, with _Casimir_ King of _Poland_. The Grand Masters, from
+that Time to 1510, when _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_ was chose Grand
+Master, could not repair their Losses. The latter having embraced the
+Protestant Religion, made a Bargain in 1515, with the King of _Poland_,
+and yielded all _Russia_ to him, on Condition of holding of him in Fee,
+what was afterwards called _Ducal Prussia_, or _Brandenbourg Prussia_,
+which now forms the Kingdom of _Prussia_; and the rest was incorporated
+with _Poland_, and forms the Palatinates of _Culm_, _Marienbourg_, _&c._
+Thus were the _Teutonic_ Knights obliged to retire to _Germany_, where
+their Order is shared into twelve Provinces, each of which has its
+particular Commandeurs; and their oldest Commandeur is called the
+Provincial Commandeur. These twelve Commandeurs depend on the Grand
+Master, and have a Right to chuse him. The Grand Master’s Residence is
+at _Marien-shal_ in Franconia, and his Revenue about twenty thousand
+Crowns. ’Tis said, the Order does not yet despair, that some Day or
+other, it will be able to recover its lost Dominions.
+
+[93] He is dead.
+
+[94] He was Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, Bishop of
+_Strasbourg_, _Halberstadt_, _Passau_, _Olenitz_ and _Breslaw_; Abbot of
+_Hirchsfeldt_, _Murbach_ and _Luders_.
+
+[95] Nevertheless, he was disgrac’d in 1733, for a very trifling Cause,
+which made the Count _de la Lippe_, also, lose all his Employments; and
+his own Disgrace has been attended with that of his whole Family, and
+with great Alterations at the Elector’s Court, where the Count _de
+Hohen-Zollern_ is now Grand Master of the Houshold, and First Minister;
+and the Baron _de Hornstein_ Great Chamberlain.
+
+[96] He was scarce twenty-eight Years of Age.
+
+[97] The Baron _de Roll_ has succeeded him in his Place.
+
+[98] The Count, who is a Lover of the Sciences, intends to make a
+_Lycaum_ of his Castle, and a little _Athens_ of his Town. He begins by
+forming a numerous Library, and longs to get the Learned about him. But
+the main Point is to make a good Choice of them; and the first Choice
+which the Count has made of a Man who has already engrossed his Favour,
+does not promise well for the future.
+
+[99] He died in 1734.
+
+[100] On the Road, two Leagues from _Cleves_, there’s the Palace of
+_Meiland_, where the King of _Prussia_ resided at the Beginning of the
+Illness which he contracted in 1734, as he returned from the Imperial
+Army on the _Rhine_.
+
+[101] The Name of this Prelate was _Barkman Wuytiers_. He died in 1733,
+at no very great Age, with the Character of a Man of the strictest
+Virtue. The Court of _Rome_, and the _Jesuits_, conceiv’d great Hopes
+after his Death. The latter, after having been banished out of the
+United Provinces by very severe Laws; employed the Mediation of a
+certain Court to succeed in their Design of getting an Apostolical Vicar
+accepted in the Place of the Archbishop of _Utrecht_; but this Design,
+which was look’d upon as dangerous to the Liberty of the Republic,
+miscarry’d, and the Deceased was succeeded by _Theodore van der Kroon_.
+
+[102] What is said throughout this Article, of their Manner of living,
+must be understood only of the common People, and not of Persons of any
+distinguished Rank, nor even of the Merchants.
+
+[103] As there is no Dignity superior to that of the Burgomaster, they
+who attain to it succeed one another in the several Functions, without
+passing to other Employments: They are the Members of the Council, who
+are sent to the College of Counsellor-Deputies, or who fill the Posts of
+Treasurers, _&c._ But the Burgomasters are they who go to the Assemblies
+of the States of the Province, with the Pensionary or Syndic of the
+City, who is the Spokesman.
+
+[104] He is since dead.
+
+[105] This Minister was succeeded in 1734, by the Count _d’Uhlefeld_,
+Son to the Lady who has the chief Direction of the Houshold to the
+Archduchess, Governess of the _Austrian Netherlands_. He is come to a
+Post which was so well fill’d before, in a very difficult Juncture,
+which has given him an Opportunity to discover the great Talents he has
+for Negotiation. As his Family is one of the best regulated, so it may
+be said to be one of the most magnificent. The Count _de Sinzendorff_
+died suddenly about the End of _September, 1734_, at the Seat of the
+Count _d’Asperen_, at the very Instant when he was preparing to return
+to _Vienna_.
+
+[106] These Differences were indeed adjusted during the Time that M. _de
+Masch_ resided here with a Ministerial Character; but he had no Hand in
+the Accommodation, it being negotiated only by M. _Luiscius_ the King’s
+Resident, and M. _Duncan_, the Prince of _Orange_’s Privy-Counsellor, or
+Major-Domo.
+
+[107] Upon the Death of the King of _Poland_, he was confirmed by the
+new Elector of _Saxony_.
+
+[108] M. _Preys_. He has resided at the _Hague_ for several Years, and
+was here during the Time of the Ambassador _Palmquist_, whom he
+Succeeded. He is a Minister of consummate Knowledge in Affairs, and is
+consulted by others of a more modern Standing, both with Pleasure and
+Profit.
+
+[109] M. _Greys_ has for several Years had the Care, as Envoy
+Extraordinary, of the King of Denmark’s Interests with the States
+General. He was bred up to be a Minister at the Altar, but had more
+Inclination to be a Minister of the Cabinet, in which he succeeded, and
+is very much esteem’d, but sees very little Company.
+
+[110] This able Minister died in _December, 1736_.
+
+[111] M. _de Keppel_ married the Widow of the late Count _de Welderen_,
+one of the greatest Men of this Republic, who left three Sons and five
+Daughters, that are the Ornament of the Nobility of _Guelderland_, and
+the Darlings of the _Hague_, where Foreigners have an easy and agreeable
+Access to this Lady’s House. M. _de Keppel_, one of the finest Gentlemen
+of his Time, and one of the bravest Officers of the State, died in 1733,
+leaving only one Son, who is an Officer in the Horse Guards.
+
+[112] The good Lady died of the Small Pox in 1735 in a very advanced
+Age. Tho’ she had made a Profession of Devotion for a certain time, she
+had not intirely lost her Taste for Gallantry, in which she certainly
+out-stripped the Lady _Mazarine_; for she declared herself, that it
+would be more easy to number the Shells upon the Shore at _Scheveling_,
+than her Adventures of Gallantry. She never missed her Aim but at one
+Man, and that was King _Augustus_. She did all she could to engage his
+Caresses, if not his Affection, but without Success; and every body
+knows the Adventure of my Lord _Raby_, who having an Amour with the
+Countess at _Berlin_, surprised her with King _Augustus_ striving to get
+loose from her close Embraces. Nor is this a Wonder; for tho’ the King
+of _Poland_ did not want Gallantry, yet he was for a Woman of some
+Politeness, of which the Countess had no Share; for being the Daughter
+of a Waterman at _Emmeris_, she had not the completed Education. She had
+Beauty indeed, but was in every other respect a coarse Lady.
+Nevertheless, during her Residence at the _Hague_, the Youth who had
+nothing else to employ their Time, constantly reported to her House, and
+among these she had always some favourite Spark. Every body knows her
+Intrigues with the famous Count _de F----_; and her Last Will and
+Testament has render’d several others immortal. You will be surprised to
+know the End of this Woman, who had been so much talked of, who had
+regaled so many People in her Time, and to whom every body had easy
+Access. She dies, is immediately removed out of her Chamber, and put
+into a Coffin in the Entry of her House, which is sealed up, and she is
+interred without one of her ungrateful Favourites vouchsafing to attend
+her Funeral, or indeed any body but the Bearers, and a few Neighbours,
+who were insulted by the Mob.
+
+[113] The Issue of this Dispute betwixt the Jew and the Anabaptist has
+been, that the latter has lost the Day, the Comedians being gone. The
+victorious Jew has hit upon an Expedient to metamorphose his future
+Opera into a public Concert, which he gives every _Monday_ in the
+Afternoon, where one sees all the People of Fashion of both Sexes; and
+there they sing Opera Acts, and the finest _French_ Cantatas.
+
+[114] Of the latter, there died a Baron in _December_, 1736, who was one
+of the principal Men, and held the greatest Offices of any in the
+Republic, next to the Grand Pensionary _Slingeland_, whom he survived
+but a few Days.
+
+[115] M. _de Wassenaar-Twickel_, a Name which he derives from a fine
+Estate in the Province of _Over-Yssel_, of which he is Deputy.
+
+[116] _William Charles Henry Friso_, Prince of _Orange_, was married
+_March_ 14. 1734. to the Princess Royal of _Great Britain_.
+
+[117] The Count _d’Auverquerque_ died Velt-Marshal of the Republic,
+about the End of the Campaign of 1708.
+
+[118] As the History of this extraordinary Man came to the Hands of the
+Bookseller since the Publication of the first Edition, he thought he
+should do a Pleasure to the Public, by inserting it in this.
+
+[119] He was executed in _July_, 1734.
+
+[120] Or the _Palace of Orange_ in the Wood at the _Hague_. It was
+yielded to the Prince of _Orange_ by his Treaty of Partition with the
+King of _Prussia_.
+
+[121] _Margaret_, Daughter of _Florence_ IV. Count of _Holland_. She was
+Countess of _Henneberg_.
+
+[122] This belongs also to the Prince of _Orange_.
+
+[123] This is an ignominious Punishment inflicted Abroad for such
+heinous Offences at deserve neither Banishment, nor Whipping, nor Death.
+The Criminal who suffers it, stands in a Shirt, with a Rope about the
+Neck, holding a burning Taper in one Hand, attended by the Executioner,
+and other inferior Officers of Justice, and in this Posture begs Pardon
+of the King, of Justice, and the Public, for the Offence committed.
+
+[124] This most Excellent Princess departed this Life the 20th of _Nov._
+1737, to the infinite Regret of the King and Kingdom.
+
+[125] His Governor is the Hon. _Stephen Poyntz_, Esq; and his Preceptor
+in the learned Languages _Jenkin Thomas Philips_, Esq; formerly
+Secretary to the Commissioners for the Fifty New Churches, and since
+preferr’d to be his Majesty’s Historiographer.
+
+[126] Her Royal Highness, as is well known, is since married to the
+Prince of _Orange_.
+
+
+
+
+                        TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that remain,
+some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when they fall in the
+middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been moved. Footnotes are now
+immediately preceding this note. We have rendered consistent on a
+per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or spacing of such pairs when repeated
+in the same grammatical context. We have corrected inconsistencies in the
+application of accents to the same word when repeated in the same
+grammatical context. Paragraph formatting has been made consistent. The
+publisher’s inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been
+corrected. A table of contents has been added.
+
+The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number
+represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext
+except for footnotes since they have been moved.
+
+    Page          Change
+
+      7  the Condu ctof[Conduct of] the Popes,
+      8  not a Man spoke a Work[Word].
+      9  in a Posture of Astonish mentat[Astonishment at] the Appearance
+     17  proclaimed Pope on _Wedcesday[Wednesday]_ the 12th
+     20  After this, th y[they] went all, both Cardinals and Prelates
+     87  {footnote} _Sebastian_ was Grandon[Grandson] of _John_ III.
+    110  intituled[intitled] Captain of the Appeals;
+    122  chief Lackeys of the Cardinals rideing[riding]
+    202  the famous Story of _Maria Aliacoque[Alacoque]_, a celebrated
+    208  as she allighted[alighted] from the Coach,
+    222  Assistance from the King his Maste[Master]:
+    225  {footnote} Et lui southaite[souhaite] un bon voyage.
+    229  intent upon carrrying[carrying] his Point,
+    232  Count _Sinzendorf’s[Sinzendorff’s]_ coming from _Vienna_
+    244  a Madness which was co-temporary[contemporary],
+    264  After her Death, the Duke de _Noalies[Noailles]_ became
+    292  General of the Coriers[Couriers], Posts and Relays
+    294  about their Master’s Preeminency[Pre-eminency].
+    309  and lives very handsomly[handsomely],
+    309  but lives handsomly[handsomely] upon what he has
+    313  The Inhabitants have a livid unwholsome[unwholesome] Complexion.
+    351  His Disbursments[Disbursements] seem to me to be very moderate
+    359  _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Corregio[Correggio]_,
+    376  are commonly employed as Tresurers[Treasurers] of the City,
+    389  and the _Amsterdamers[Amsterdammers]_ themselves cannot
+    419  a young Man of an unblamable[unblameable] Behaviour;
+    425  of the _Franche Comte[Comté]_. The Republic
+    443  that of being sollicited[solicited] by the Person in Disgrace
+  Index  _Churchil[Churchill], Arabella_, 257.
+  Index  Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gameing[Gaming],
+  Index  _Hagendorp[Hogendorp]_, M. 413.
+  Index  _Lewid’ors[Lewis d’Ors]_, worn in a Lady’s Ears for Pendants
+  Index  _Peyronie[Peyrome]_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+  Index  _Popes_, the Days on which he[the] Cardinals kiss
+  Index  _Rochebone[Rochebonne]_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+  Index  _Terasson[Terrasson]_, Abbé, 243.
+  Index  _Tintorit[Tintoret]_, Painter, 359.
+  Index  _Tourlane[Touraine], la_, 216.
+  Index  _Walpot[Walpol]_, Baron _de_, 350.
+  Index  His Conduct in the _Cevennios[Cevennois]_ and in
+  Index  _Wassienaurs[Wassenaars]_, of _Holland_, 412.
+  Index  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_’s Assasination[Assassination], 425.
+  Index  Disputes adjusted relateing[relating] to his Succession,
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
+***** This file should be named 38501-0.txt or 38501-0.zip *****
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von P�llnitz
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
+       Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels From
+       Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland,
+       England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not
+       Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but
+       the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several
+       Courts.
+
+Author: Karl Ludwig von P�llnitz
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2012 [EBook #38501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Biblioth�que nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated
+faithfully except as shown in the TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS at the end of
+the text. This etext presumes a mono-spaced font on the user's device,
+such as Courier New. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. But the
+publisher also wanted to emphasize words in sentences already italicized,
+so he printed them in the regular font which is indicated here with: _The
+pirates then went to +Hispaniola+._ Footnotes are located near the end of
+the work.
+
+[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode]
+
+
+
+
+                                  THE
+
+                                MEMOIRS
+
+                                   OF
+
+                            _CHARLES-LEWIS_,
+
+                           Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                                 BEING
+
+   The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro'
+
+                        _GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_,
+                          _ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_,
+                         _FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c.
+
+                       In LETTERS to his FRIEND.
+
+ Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;
+
+                                  BUT
+
+     The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS.
+
+                            In TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. II.
+
+                  The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS.
+
+                               _LONDON_:
+
+ Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_.
+                              M.DCC.XXXIX.
+
+
+
+
+                           TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                       LETTER XXVIII          1
+
+                       LETTER XXIX           24
+
+                       LETTER XXX            46
+
+                       LETTER XXXI           55
+
+                       LETTER XXXII          77
+
+                       LETTER XXXIII         95
+
+                       LETTER XXXIV         113
+
+                       LETTER XXXV          129
+
+                       LETTER XXXVI         151
+
+                       LETTER XXXVII        168
+
+                       LETTER XXXVIII       179
+
+                       LETTER XXXIX         189
+
+                       LETTER XL            203
+
+                       LETTER XLI           228
+
+                       LETTER XLII          261
+
+                       LETTER XLIII         277
+
+                       LETTER XLIV          290
+
+                       LETTER XLV           310
+
+                       LETTER XLVI          325
+
+                       LETTER XLVII         337
+
+                       LETTER XLVIII        348
+
+                       LETTER XLIX          357
+
+                       LETTER L             364
+
+                       LETTER LI            384
+
+                       LETTER LII           394
+
+                       LETTER LIII          430
+
+                       LETTER LIV           449
+
+                       INDEX                473
+
+                       FOOTNOTES
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                   MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, July 30, 1730._
+
+Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which
+has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
+_Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
+because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
+I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
+beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
+Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
+shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
+rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
+described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
+Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.
+
+ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
+That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
+Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
+be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
+to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first
+Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
+with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
+the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
+and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
+Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
+When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a
+triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_,
+through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
+in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
+the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
+middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
+Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
+by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's
+a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
+worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village.
+The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
+consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
+the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
+Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
+Hovels.
+
+From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which
+lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in
+the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_,
+because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run
+Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day
+by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine
+Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_,
+_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.
+_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
+substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar,
+which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the
+Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
+place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called,
+because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
+it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
+the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+
+The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is
+called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
+leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so
+contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
+the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
+Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME.
+
+The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in
+it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one
+would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
+less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
+both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_,
+which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that
+Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In
+the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
+in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
+Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_,
+belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of
+Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a
+rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
+that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if
+true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
+perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
+Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
+_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
+dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
+
+The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
+Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies,
+sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
+Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
+every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of
+Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in
+Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press
+forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
+how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
+for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
+rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have
+the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I
+extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and
+there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
+Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abb�s and Prelates; but they are
+not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
+the Ladies Coaches.
+
+Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets
+which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
+_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or
+to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
+Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous
+of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
+This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
+it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
+Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and
+their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
+Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
+
+The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square
+_Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
+Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis
+adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
+of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
+of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by
+Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
+this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
+Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
+it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
+which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.
+At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
+sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
+principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and
+_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by
+different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
+suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
+oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
+cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.
+
+Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_,
+begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.
+'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is
+an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
+Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
+belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal
+_Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
+Painting.
+
+The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its
+round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has
+been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an
+Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he
+afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope
+_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to
+the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
+the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the
+Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
+Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
+the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
+an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
+The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
+Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
+heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of
+that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Brass partly on the High Altar
+of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
+cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who
+did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_,
+who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
+the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it
+is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_
+was always spared.
+
+St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
+Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
+though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be
+worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
+lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it.
+Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
+in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is
+round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
+which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
+an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
+holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
+continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
+lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
+runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
+Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who
+may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments
+with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
+'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s
+Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
+_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
+a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
+Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
+Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
+of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a
+Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
+almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
+confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
+Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
+Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
+promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
+body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
+and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
+including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.
+caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
+at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
+that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_,
+and as many _Ave Maries_.
+
+When you have passed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some
+Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
+before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
+_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
+of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which
+form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all
+over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
+_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has
+represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
+Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
+Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
+_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not
+near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the
+Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
+shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.
+
+I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike
+me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
+Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I
+was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
+High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
+Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
+Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
+Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
+Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
+naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
+none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
+his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
+adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
+_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
+of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
+surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
+which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is
+hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.
+
+At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair,
+a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
+Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and
+St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
+raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
+which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
+Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand,
+has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of
+such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
+Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in
+whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
+not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
+altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
+_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes
+granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of
+that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
+Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
+honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
+Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated
+her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.
+_Christina_'s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
+Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
+perfectly well executed.
+
+Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular
+Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
+the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
+than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
+that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists
+have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
+of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
+_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
+coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
+would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
+Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
+extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
+is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
+design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
+grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
+their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
+on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a
+Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.
+
+The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
+Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
+Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
+Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
+leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
+the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
+_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
+by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.
+
+All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that
+the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious
+Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
+are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary
+Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_,
+our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the
+_Jesuits_.
+
+As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition,
+that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
+pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
+what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
+signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
+the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the
+more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.
+But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
+Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next
+Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
+by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of
+Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.
+The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
+the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_,
+because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
+last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those
+Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
+
+I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene.
+I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
+referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
+ROME to another Opportunity.
+
+The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
+warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
+have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
+chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_
+was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
+account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the
+Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
+their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People,
+that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he
+had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
+the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
+Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
+at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time,
+it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
+Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
+Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
+Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
+by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
+_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
+as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
+the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
+on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely
+for having done an Act of Justice.
+
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for
+Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_,
+pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
+Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed,
+and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de
+Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
+was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great
+Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own
+Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_
+Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it
+will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy,
+they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_,
+who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
+of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
+to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him
+directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to
+the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were
+accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
+consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his
+Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_
+having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
+the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the
+Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
+Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_
+hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared
+openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
+Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
+apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some
+other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
+to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him;
+and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
+conjured him for God's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement.
+'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
+end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
+have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course
+of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
+the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
+the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his
+Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
+obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
+consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal
+Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
+Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the
+best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
+of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any
+longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man
+whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
+length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope,
+they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
+Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be
+Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the
+Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
+_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
+Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were
+bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the
+Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
+Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_;
+yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are
+even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that
+they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore,
+that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
+Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
+of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
+Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
+exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
+Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.
+
+Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_,
+in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory
+of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
+Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
+_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that
+he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
+good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
+he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.
+
+In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.
+received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
+here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a
+while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and
+placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
+of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
+down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
+after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day
+and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for
+afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
+the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great
+Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and
+then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the
+great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel
+of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
+he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
+Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
+where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
+Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel;
+and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
+his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
+where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there
+were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
+Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.
+
+The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
+giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
+Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_
+Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a
+long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
+Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME
+about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
+him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
+Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of
+the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
+they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they
+had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,'
+said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
+Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my
+Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then
+turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal,
+whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew,
+_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
+Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
+rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
+may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
+it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
+want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.
+ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.
+
+The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I
+can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
+who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
+in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
+Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
+then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico,
+where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to
+kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
+the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
+kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
+the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer
+prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the
+Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
+on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_,
+they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
+white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
+they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
+with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
+Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
+Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
+his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
+a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from
+his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
+before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
+his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
+he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
+him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
+_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth
+away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
+Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he
+lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
+When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
+deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
+of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
+him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
+Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
+erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
+upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
+Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_,
+with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
+the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
+were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
+I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here
+these two Months.
+
+From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
+pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's
+Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
+Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a
+Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
+returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
+consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
+one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
+to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
+had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
+Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
+by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
+to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
+great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
+seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
+Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
+Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
+People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that
+led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were
+fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
+their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
+placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
+dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
+Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
+were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of
+St. _Angelo_.
+
+Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
+seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the
+Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
+Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
+that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is
+covered with precious Stones, tho' I assure you, that there cannot be a
+greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
+Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
+august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is
+hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the
+very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon
+this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_
+could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
+affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
+has deviated from the Truth.
+
+The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the
+Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
+commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
+_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
+Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
+Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.
+
+Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and
+took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father
+marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond
+of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
+seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
+in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback,
+his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
+Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
+as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw
+_Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed
+nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._
+
+In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I
+traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
+Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
+that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are
+here styled Palaces.
+
+I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and
+_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
+for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
+Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
+healthful Air in the City.
+
+The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
+and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
+its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired
+in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
+employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
+help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
+the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to
+have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has
+done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
+of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.
+
+_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
+Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
+by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons
+of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake
+them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
+did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
+of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among
+the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
+out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
+extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
+thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune
+to be in such Company, there he must stay.
+
+The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
+the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_,
+and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
+best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
+_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The
+former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
+_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_
+submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased
+by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this
+Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from
+the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the
+Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
+is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
+are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted,
+both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
+of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
+Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
+Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of
+sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
+ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
+Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.
+
+The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
+his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought
+it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_,
+which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And
+as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
+if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
+the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the
+Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
+with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
+Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
+Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
+used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
+Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.
+
+I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
+touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
+most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
+_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_,
+he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a
+Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the
+_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
+_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the
+Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When
+he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
+that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
+the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
+at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
+Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
+at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
+enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
+were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should
+give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
+however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
+Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
+they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
+_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
+_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
+College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
+for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
+Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
+State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had
+done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand
+Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he
+converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body
+groan'd; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so
+byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even
+the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to
+the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he
+would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_
+confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of
+every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my
+Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken
+me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too
+strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made
+his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his
+Good-nature, that he wept too.
+
+I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which
+however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals
+represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of
+innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the
+World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he
+would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged
+was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_
+easily brought himself off. He said, 'twas all Calumny; swore with Tears
+in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in
+Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his
+Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope
+should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing
+an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty
+_Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: 'Your Holiness
+being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give
+Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, 'tis thought
+proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o'Clock, the
+Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an
+Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to
+the Cardinal's Apartment, and peep thro' the Key-hole.' The Pope did not
+fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected,
+the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at
+Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he
+kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty
+Cardinal in this Posture, cry'd out to somebody that was with him, _Do but
+see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light!
+Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the
+Cardinal's Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have
+accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to
+think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the
+Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the
+Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a
+Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of
+Hypocrites. But, to the Pope's Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_
+was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him
+being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they
+were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal
+_Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the
+Hands of the_ Turks.
+
+This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave
+away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold
+all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of
+Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been
+told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from
+the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them
+offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred.
+Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the
+golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, 'I am
+sorry I can't let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but
+here's one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not
+wrong them.' Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the
+Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope.
+They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at
+their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit.
+
+At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having
+complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great
+many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor?
+Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State
+Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he
+said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have
+any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put
+them back, tho' perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long
+expired.
+
+This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst
+of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in
+the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry,
+would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him
+rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as 'twas possible for any mean
+Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day
+in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any
+Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the
+_Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher'd, and without any
+Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he
+happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his
+Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So
+much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have
+been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now
+return to the _Vatican_.
+
+This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of
+ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent
+_Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought
+proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but,
+Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are
+the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in
+it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are
+also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that
+they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the
+Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St.
+_Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard,
+to denote that God had stay'd the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of
+St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME,
+carried in Procession to St. _Peter_'s Church two Images of the Virgin,
+the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_,
+the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church
+of St. _Mary in Compitello_.
+
+From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace
+of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other.
+_Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes
+have carried it on. 'Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none
+of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed
+is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_
+V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all
+contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here
+are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This
+vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle,
+encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross
+Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the
+Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main
+Building there's a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant
+_Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an
+admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they
+are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of
+this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being
+rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold
+Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the
+reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other
+in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope's Apartments there's one of the
+most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far
+into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in
+_Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here
+rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much
+admir'd by the _Italians_, who never travell'd out of their Country, where
+Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_,
+who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this
+Country with very great Indifference.
+
+The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a
+Traveller's Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII.
+The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn'd on both
+Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are
+plac'd, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At
+the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing
+_Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the
+Victory gain'd over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is
+form'd by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc'd
+Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there's an _Equestrian_
+Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the
+most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the
+Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer'd some Years ago
+to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou'd be put into the Horse's
+Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it
+is at present. 'Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable
+Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all
+Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the
+Direction of _Michael Angelo_.
+
+In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two
+others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer'd.
+There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of
+the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there's a stately
+Fountain adorn'd with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals,
+representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the
+Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of
+excellent Sculpture.
+
+The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings,
+particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the
+Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by
+_Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by
+_Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus
+Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in
+short, which I don't mention, as being of less Value, and which are not
+much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou'd
+pass with us for Master-pieces.
+
+Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call'd _Campo-vaccino_, I
+cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to
+particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the
+admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold
+without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou'd have the
+same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to
+see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the
+ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much
+Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury'd; beyond
+that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the
+immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of
+_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain
+Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Div� Faustin�_; on your Right-hand the
+melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the
+eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was
+built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having
+reconcil'd the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. 'Twas in this Temple,
+according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of
+the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the
+Mistress of the Universe, as wou'd put you in mind of the Instability of
+this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou'd you say, if you shou'd
+go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of
+all Things, had spar'd, but was destroy'd by Men, and such too as were
+most concern'd in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was
+beautiful? And what wou'd you think, if you saw there was scarce enough
+remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once?
+'Twas _Vespasian_ that caus'd it to be built after the Model which was
+intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and 'tis built
+of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena
+is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the
+highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for
+the common People. They say it contain'd eighty-five thousand Spectators.
+It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great
+Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter'd five
+thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and
+_Urban_ VIII. caus'd the _Coliseum_ to be demolish'd, and made use of the
+Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.
+
+Having entertain'd you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now
+take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you
+into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general.
+I don't deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere;
+but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so
+much Notice as is taken of 'em. Methinks, 'tis with the Buildings of ROME,
+as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish'd, we are
+apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou'd censure. A great
+many Palaces are admir'd here, barely from the Prepossession that
+Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was
+true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an
+_Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but 'tis not so
+now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their
+Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in
+_France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the
+Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments
+of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which
+have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms
+have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is
+the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix'd where
+they shou'd be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and
+Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or
+six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving
+Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not
+look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As
+to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of
+Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho'
+there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work'd, that
+the Gilding employ'd on them serves only the more to expose their
+Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either
+of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn'd
+with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which
+are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six
+Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some
+Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in
+such sorry old-fashion'd Frames, that they disparage them. They have but
+few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal
+Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are
+beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou'd be
+better pleas'd to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I
+don't think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here
+is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a
+long while in their Graves; and there's no House furnish'd in the modern
+Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_
+and _Carolis_.
+
+'Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here
+the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME;
+_Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building
+were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of
+_Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of
+Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This
+Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn'd
+with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up
+fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of
+oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to
+this Palace is through a great Court, adorn'd within by _Doric_ Pillars;
+and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by
+Arches, with great Galleries well cover'd over, where we see the famous
+Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation
+of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there
+is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble,
+all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten'd to a Bull,
+by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of
+_Boeotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had
+divorc'd, because she had suffer'd herself to be debauch'd by _Jupiter_ in
+the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie
+_Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she
+was dragg'd about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess,
+turn'd her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_
+to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under
+Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor,
+from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that
+it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been
+plac'd there.
+
+The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn'd with several
+fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History
+of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass'd the _Scheld_, who is represented as
+crown'd by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain'd to his Feet.
+There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches,
+and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by
+_Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and
+_Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the
+memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference
+with that Pope's _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many
+fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest
+Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout
+by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very
+great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In
+fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that
+the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all
+taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. 'Tis
+pity that 'tis not finish'd, for in Truth it wou'd be a fine Piece of
+Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_'s _Miracles_,
+which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for
+their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate,
+and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their
+Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of
+their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don't live to finish;
+and 'tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles,
+either because they don't care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left
+them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the
+Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good
+for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a
+mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the
+Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that
+they are swallow'd up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the
+Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to
+decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch'd off on
+sudden by Winter.
+
+_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind
+the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden
+of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River,
+in the Quarter call'd _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the
+Duke of _Parma_ wou'd have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in
+his own Capital.
+
+The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is
+larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The
+Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms
+a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great
+Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_,
+who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of
+Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection.
+The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really
+contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give
+you all the Particulars, I shou'd never have done. That which very much
+disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might
+easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses
+which belong to it.
+
+The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the
+Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now
+actually carrying up, is finish'd. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner
+of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the
+richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who
+died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in
+Specie. The Prince is a very good [OE]conomist, has no Children, and being
+not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife,
+his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_
+Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted;
+and though they have been as often reconcil'd, either by their Kindred, or
+by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been
+assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are
+asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender
+Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as
+bad.
+
+'Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts
+(which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_
+XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
+they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in
+Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe
+it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But,
+'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the
+Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I
+shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his
+Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.
+
+If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will
+be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
+who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes
+to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in
+better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME,
+and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
+many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
+Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is
+extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of
+this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the
+Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
+of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
+Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
+and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for
+presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
+_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable
+and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
+present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
+finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
+live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis
+what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
+magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had
+another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
+oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you
+the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
+richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
+extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
+are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all
+_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
+support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon,
+which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
+Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
+Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
+Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
+gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the
+Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands,
+and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
+the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing
+more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never
+saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
+Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting
+the Hackney to the Pope.
+
+This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on
+St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it
+was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the
+Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
+Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
+and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
+When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
+Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which
+were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's
+grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set
+out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They
+were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse
+and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the
+Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
+Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
+then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The
+Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
+Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is
+a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
+the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on
+the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
+Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
+Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
+came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by
+thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
+Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_,
+the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
+The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
+riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the
+Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
+When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
+was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
+kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of
+the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his
+Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
+his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
+_Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which
+the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the
+Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor
+and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
+Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
+his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
+Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
+the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
+present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
+Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the
+Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_.
+The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's
+Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief
+Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
+Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any
+Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of
+the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which
+were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the
+Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
+Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the
+Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine
+Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
+manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
+Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the
+principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was
+illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as
+they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
+Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
+assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                         _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._
+
+Tho' I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can't
+forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_.
+There's an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
+elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
+the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
+Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
+Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
+Monarch. 'Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
+Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
+Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
+Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
+Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the
+_Borghese_ Family, and tho' no more than an Advocate at first, rais'd his
+Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_.
+
+The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
+thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
+Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done
+more than this. The Prince's Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
+stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there's a
+second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
+Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
+populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
+Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built
+by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by
+Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope's Nephews. Before the Art of
+Gardening was introduc'd into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of
+_Italy_ were reckon'd the finest in the World; but now-a-days 'tis
+otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ'd before) a Man is an
+_Italian_, and never pass'd the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon
+all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and
+_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou'd not have you think that I find no
+Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
+Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form'd, tho'
+they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz'd at the Magnificence of those
+who made those Gardens, and am pleas'd to find by what they have done,
+that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
+short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
+see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
+them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
+Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V.
+and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are
+kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all
+this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm'd, as the Gardens of
+_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries.
+
+_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. 'Tis a large
+Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments
+are spacious, but very sorrily furnish'd. The House at the Vineyard
+_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
+which 'tis adorn'd. 'Tis almost intirely cover'd on the Outside with
+stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, 'tis a Pleasure to
+see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
+Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
+_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
+that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho' very ill furnish'd, are
+adorn'd with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou'd admire
+_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe
+representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos'd into a Laurel, at the
+Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
+Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
+representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
+Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
+_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_,
+as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
+and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
+curious Workmanship. 'Tis said that this Statue was discover'd under the
+Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the
+Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus'd it to be erected; and really
+'tis so curious a Piece, that it wou'd have been pity it had not been
+found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
+Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou'd never have done; for no King in
+the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
+a Treasure that is inestimable.
+
+I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
+and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has
+taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was
+perform'd on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the
+Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of
+the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o'Clock, as they call it
+here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
+Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
+Way, follow'd by several close Carriages cover'd with Tapestry embroider'd
+with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong'd: Then came the
+Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
+follow'd by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
+_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress'd
+in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope's Equerries in red Robes, his
+Holiness's Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
+went before two Portmanteaus trimm'd with red Velvet lac'd with Gold,
+which were carry'd on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
+in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
+for _Naples_. The Pope's Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
+and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover'd with red Velvet trimm'd with
+Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope's Stables follow'd by two Prickers. At
+some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without
+Distinction of Rank, all dress'd in black Coats and Mantles, with great
+Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope's Mace-bearers, in
+long-sleev'd purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
+solid Silver, and follow'd by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
+red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
+Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope's Trumpeters
+dress'd in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
+red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call'd _Camerieri extra muros_. The
+Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
+Advocates dress'd in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
+The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
+Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
+are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in
+Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
+follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
+Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
+Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
+Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
+came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del
+Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
+the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd
+towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
+Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with
+red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules.
+Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
+red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver
+Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompass'd the Litter, as did
+the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
+trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
+hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
+Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with
+Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
+Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd
+with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a
+Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
+the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
+some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
+dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes,
+with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a
+Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
+assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
+the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
+Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
+clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
+Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of
+the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
+of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats
+great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and
+Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
+of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
+adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
+they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
+Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_.
+
+All this Cavalcade pass'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
+with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
+_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the
+Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
+answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train
+pass'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
+the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect
+every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.
+From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
+Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who
+had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
+
+When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St.
+_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of
+the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
+being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to
+the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
+being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on
+the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
+Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and
+presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
+of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the
+Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
+his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
+Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
+to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
+the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
+was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
+the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
+Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a
+Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
+receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
+Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
+assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
+and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended
+from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to
+the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the
+Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the
+great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
+ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
+all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among
+the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
+carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
+_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of
+_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.
+
+This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
+magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than
+they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
+Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS
+CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
+mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
+Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
+to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
+all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
+in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
+Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
+Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_
+upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
+
+The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
+as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
+for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of
+the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals
+of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_
+Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
+getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
+if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
+at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
+me again before Lent. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, March 10, 1731_
+
+I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
+sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
+for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score
+from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
+the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
+obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
+Countries, and all Courts are alike.
+
+Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who
+officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then
+indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order'd me to
+be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according
+to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair,
+ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red
+Velvet. As I enter'd the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which
+I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach'd
+him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel'd again, and
+receiv'd the Pope's Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming
+up close to the Pope, I kneel'd again, and receiv'd a third Blessing, all
+which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they
+consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one
+Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask'd me many Questions,
+and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was
+extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so
+long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the
+Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope's Countenance change; his Smiles
+were turn'd into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather
+have my Room than my Company. But being appriz'd beforehand, that his
+Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without
+omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber,
+I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at
+Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all
+that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon;
+for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun'd, and therefore I will
+gratify him in his own Way.
+
+Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than
+I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the
+Pope's Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago,
+went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv'd in the same manner
+as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in
+the Antichamber, and without being oblig'd to leave his Sword and Hat, as
+those of his Retinue were, he was introduc'd by the _Major Domo_ to the
+Pope, who receiv'd him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as
+he enter'd, nor did the Pope, who ask'd him several Questions, and was
+inform'd that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he
+withdrew, the Prince desir'd the Pope, that he would give him leave to
+introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the
+last Degree, neither kneel'd, nor kiss'd the Pope's Foot. At _Geneva_
+indeed he deserv'd to have his Statue erected, tho' here his Politeness
+was call'd in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was
+charm'd with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five
+Months here, and liv'd handsomely. He apply'd himself to the Knowledge of
+Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho' not so
+large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover'd a very
+great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_
+if all its Princes were like him.
+
+The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those
+unfortunate Princes who are here call'd the King and Queen of _England_.
+Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot
+they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body
+can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the
+Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him
+easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis
+_Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that
+are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court,
+since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord
+_Inverness_, retir'd to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the
+Education of the young Princes, who are here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_,
+and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall
+see.
+
+The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style
+of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never
+goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the
+Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the
+Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When
+the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool;
+but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to
+do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem'd to be more embroil'd with
+the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go
+to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict
+Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_.
+When the eldest Prince, who is here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, goes to
+wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has
+a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.
+As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet
+settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.
+
+_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I
+may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is
+prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II.
+his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far
+from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would
+indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch'd by the
+Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_,
+_alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If
+one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely
+attach'd to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a
+Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be
+educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister
+preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is
+extremely reserv'd at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but
+it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very
+courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table,
+and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.
+
+His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what
+is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are
+seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits
+himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his
+Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His
+Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally
+upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he
+rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon,
+when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours
+at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes
+to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without
+ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at
+Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his
+Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to
+Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every
+Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the
+Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.
+
+The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen;
+and tho' not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is
+infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish'd
+Lady, and never was there a better natur'd Person with more Humility; she
+is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in
+Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of
+ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good,
+and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho' she is heartily
+attach'd to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ
+from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and
+good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it
+her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed,
+Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a
+Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory,
+and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_
+so well, that 'tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is
+most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I
+had the Honour to approach, I don't know one more deserving of the
+Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that
+Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so
+strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her
+wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.
+
+You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by
+consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and
+Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of
+_Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at
+_Inspruck_, when she pass'd that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the
+Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her
+Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.
+_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could
+procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany'd by
+Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who
+carry'd his Wife with him. They arriv'd accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a
+great Retinue, and there they pass'd for People of Consequence: They
+contriv'd so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to
+give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was
+repair'd: They introduc'd themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a
+Nun whom they brib'd to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix'd on
+the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was
+Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess's Stature to pass
+thro' the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner's Bed, who
+for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl's
+Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass'd thro' her
+Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the
+Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to
+apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow'd a
+great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen'd to step into a
+Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig'd to
+leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From
+thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet
+and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr.
+_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the
+Coach, and _Misset_ stay'd two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether
+any Discovery was made of the Princess's Flight. The Silence of the Guard
+was such, that he believ'd they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he
+rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to
+watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for
+early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and
+the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the
+great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend
+the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he
+travell'd a little way with him, and resolv'd either to make him drunk, or
+to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a
+certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their
+Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the
+Messenger; and when he found him doz'd, he took away his Dispatches, and
+went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three
+Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy
+See.
+
+Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a
+Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony
+was accordingly perform'd there without much Pomp, and the Princess set
+out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany'd by all the
+_English_ of both Sexes that were at ROME of the Pretender's Party, went
+in that Prince's Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus
+did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv'd
+with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join'd by
+her Husband[5].
+
+While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you
+of a certain Prophecy in every body's Mouth here, which was said to be
+found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734,
+the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of
+_Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this
+as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:
+
+      Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,
+      Et Antonius Veni Creator,
+      Et Joannes Baptista c�nabit,
+      Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III.
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      _When Easter falls on St. Mark's Day,
+      And Whitsunday on St. Antony's of Padua,
+      And when St. John the Baptist's is a Sacrament Day,
+      Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._
+
+Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was
+to me very tiresom, tho' it lasted here, according to an establish'd
+Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o'Clock in the
+Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on
+Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things,
+and the latter throw Meslin in one another's Eyes by Handfuls; but the
+best on't is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body
+is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even
+in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make
+them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in
+open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn'd with Plumes of
+Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the
+Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del
+Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of
+Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer'd to run loose
+without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the
+_Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro' the Shouts and Cries of
+the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the
+Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for
+his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at
+Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the
+Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World.
+
+But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where
+to be parallell'd for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now
+be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb'd this Winter for the Hire of the
+Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus'd it to be
+furnish'd by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix'd for the Ball, they
+invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of
+appearing there mask'd, provided they made themselves known at the Door:
+All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several
+Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design'd
+for the principal Nobility was encompass'd with Forms, and the Place for
+the Dancers was an oval Nook rail'd in. A Gentleman of the Company that
+gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title
+of Master of the Hall, and 'twas he that call'd out the Dancers. All the
+Ladies were mask'd at this Ball, which was call'd a Feast, but I know not
+why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.
+The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have
+been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir'd, and in
+such Danger of being press'd to Death, that I don't care to go again; for
+which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste.
+
+Neither am I very well reconcil'd to their Plays, of which indeed here are
+none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two
+Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there's
+but one that's good for any thing, and that's the Ladies Theatre, commonly
+call'd the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because 'twas built by Order of one Count
+_Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in
+it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room
+look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage
+is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don't shift the
+Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the
+whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the
+three principal Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are
+horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most
+part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can't imagine any
+thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a
+ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here,
+that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that
+the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_.
+There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures,
+who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho' they have neither
+Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best
+Actresses are elsewhere. Tho' I am passionately fond of the _Italian_
+Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see
+those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such
+Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no
+Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an
+Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very
+scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that
+have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the
+Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; _viz.
+Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison'd at _Naples_; but there are
+still remaining M. _Hass_, commonly call'd the _Saxon_, and _Signior
+Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous
+_Signiora Faustina_.
+
+While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to
+omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform'd on the
+four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being
+then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring.
+The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses
+are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a
+Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which
+sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while
+the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a
+thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the
+Square, bawl'd out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho' very
+few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and 'twas not his
+Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces
+from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions
+of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit
+had.
+
+Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never
+pass'd the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell
+you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_
+don't know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where
+reigns the greatest Freedom, there's always an Air of Constraint, which
+one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them,
+insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget
+Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know
+how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be
+acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats,
+where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where
+they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and
+I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not
+the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don't set it off
+to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to
+me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their
+Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for
+us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of
+Cookery.
+
+I know not whether 'tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of
+Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or
+Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more
+melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in
+particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of
+Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself,
+that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can't be of that
+Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so
+contrary to ours. At my Age, 'tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste
+and Fashion of Living: Those of ROME don't agree with me, and I foresee
+they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I
+promise you, I'll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my
+Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.
+
+The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they
+do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of
+which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return
+home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After
+their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and
+after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they
+dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from
+thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there's a Walk, which is very sorrily pav'd,
+between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there's no Air, but Dust
+enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_
+repairs to the Square, or Place _d'Espagne_, where I think I have already
+told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their
+Visits of Ceremony: At Two o'Clock at Night, which in the long Days in
+Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _Assemblies_. These may be
+divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private
+Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only
+converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the
+Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of
+all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.
+
+The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of
+Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope's Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the
+Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there
+is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain'd. The
+Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all
+the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand
+Assembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the
+most part well-dress'd, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abb�s,
+lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and
+salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except
+Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises;
+and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which
+she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak
+this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they
+don't care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I
+travell'd hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_
+Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer'd
+me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+
+Language_. She then turn'd about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking
+Abb� come in, who talk'd with her in private all the Evening, and probably
+in such a Language as she understood.
+
+After the Levee they fall to play, but 'tis at such Games as we
+_Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_,
+_Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take
+it to be like the Languages, which 'tis difficult to be Master of, unless
+People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man's
+whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with
+99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes,
+Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.
+During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all
+Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the
+Money for the Cards.
+
+The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have
+not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a
+Dozen _Petits-colets_, who really are the _Petits-Ma�tres_ of this Place,
+supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these
+Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abb� to put in a Word, because
+they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of
+Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. 'Tis
+true, that the Abb� wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and
+as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so
+that when you see a _Petit-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you
+must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even
+Clergymen.
+
+The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at
+the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure
+and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the
+Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter
+a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles,
+so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where
+to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles
+are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion'd Stands of
+the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts
+with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if
+those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but
+whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill
+Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so
+that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse
+with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a
+black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every
+time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been
+congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring
+Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the
+two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes
+the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you
+that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.
+Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises
+his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to
+what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary
+Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or
+Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And
+after having thoroughly canvass'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight,
+all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.
+
+Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes
+his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman
+indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion
+of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture,
+and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has
+digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing
+more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.
+There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of
+the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers
+in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.
+All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon
+Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are
+Masters of it in its Purity.
+
+A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the
+good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say
+it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony,
+because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there's scarce one of them
+in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this,
+one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave
+at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they
+then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a
+Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in
+their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that
+puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in
+_France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho' an _Italian_, was in the _French_
+Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told
+me one Day that he observ'd I follow'd the _French_ Fashion strictly: I
+ask'd him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day.
+Nevertheless I wou'd not have you think that this Slovenliness is general;
+for there are People as much perfum'd here as elsewhere; and you may take
+my Word for it, that a _Petit-Ma�tre_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the
+pertest _French Petit-Ma�tre_. Indeed they are more rare here than
+elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before
+they are twenty Years of Age.
+
+But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you
+ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains
+have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all
+Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest
+_Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the
+same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth,
+where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus'd
+of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there's no Nation where
+the Ladies have more Freedom than here. 'Tis possible that some of the
+Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as
+to the People of Quality, I don't think them any more liable to that
+Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou'd say as much in their
+Vindication as to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the
+Fact is too well known, and 'tis the original Sin of almost all the
+_Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest;
+and 'tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as
+they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other
+Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort
+drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus'd also of
+being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry'd out
+against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some
+that have receiv'd Affronts, so good-natur'd as to forget them. 'Tis true,
+that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is
+owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder
+for the first Time is condemn'd to the Gallies; tho' in some Cases indeed
+he is only banish'd from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then,
+after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME.
+They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally
+compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.
+If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches
+were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou'd have more Crimes perhaps
+committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and
+done, we don't hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of
+Robberies; and tho' there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls
+here in the Night, I shou'd make no Scruple to go from one End of the City
+to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou'd be most afraid of
+wou'd be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind
+are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among
+Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such
+an Accident to any Person of Note.
+
+I happen'd not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my
+Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven
+o'Clock, 'twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People
+stirring in the Streets. I pass'd thro' the Street _del Corso_, and just
+as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal
+_Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance
+behind the other: As the former brush'd close by me, I heard a Pistol go
+off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from
+the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming;
+but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went
+very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after;
+at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50
+Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But 'tis
+really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the
+Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou'd serve as a Place of Retreat for
+a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour's Blood. This is an
+Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient
+Privileges. In the last Pope's Time, _Alberoni_ propos'd to the other
+Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the
+Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he
+said with Indignation, 'Since 'tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain
+wou'd take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge
+to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
+Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to
+Justice, I wou'd do all in my Power to promote his Escape.' 'Tis said,
+that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard
+to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture
+at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges
+of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People,
+and the Homage of the Mob.
+
+Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so
+establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better
+serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this
+Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims
+is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it
+almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days,
+and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of
+the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and
+the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.
+
+Divine Service is perform'd with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but
+particularly in the Pope's Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all
+the Ceremonies therein observ'd, it wou'd take me up another Day. I will,
+in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy
+Week, which, tho' I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better
+enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, June 15, 1731._
+
+Tho' the first Promotion of Cardinals by _Clement_ XII. was made the Close
+of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with,
+that I deferr'd giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This
+Promotion was made in Favour of three _Nuncios_, (who, by the way, never
+quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean
+the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_, and _Spain_, and Signior _Ruspoli_,
+the Pope's Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. his Father having obtain'd it for him of
+Cardinal _Coscia_, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being
+appriz'd of the Bargain, which his Father had made with _Coscia_, he went
+to _Corsini_, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father's Friend
+and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass'd betwixt his Father and
+_Coscia_, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou'd
+never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope's mere Good-will.
+Cardinal _Corsini_ being charm'd with the generous Temper of young
+_Ruspoli_, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in
+St. _Peter_'s Throne, he has preferr'd _Ruspoli_ over the Heads of many
+Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.
+
+This Promotion was made at _Monte-Cavallo_. The Pope had declar'd in a
+private Consistory, that he was resolv'd to make five Cardinals, _viz._
+the three _Nuncios_ above-mention'd, Signior _Ruspoli_, and a Fifth, whom
+he reserv'd in _Petto_. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a
+Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch'd Couriers to the _Nuncios_ to carry
+them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint _Ruspoli_
+of what had pass'd. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the
+Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the
+Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank'd him for the Favour he had just done
+him, and then return'd to his Palace, where he receiv'd the Compliments of
+all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior
+_Neri Corsini_, _Clement_ XIIth's Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had
+reserv'd in _Petto_. On the _Thursday_ following there was a public
+Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according
+to the Ceremonial, been oblig'd to keep his Chamber, and to be dress'd in
+Purple, receiv'd the Hat from the Pope's own Hand. His Eminency repair'd
+in the Morning to the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_, while the Cardinals were
+assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join'd in the Chapel by
+these Cardinals, _viz. Barberini_, who represented the Dean of the Sacred
+College; _Ottoboni_, the Great Chancellor; _Albano_, the Chamberlain; and
+_Cienfuegos_, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great
+Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the
+usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return'd from thence into the
+Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel,
+with his _Caudataire_, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies.
+During this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by
+kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As
+he enter'd within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated
+at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle
+of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on
+his Knees, and kiss'd both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who
+rais'd him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went
+afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their
+Seniority, and then return'd and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A
+Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on
+his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies.
+The new Cardinal now kiss'd the Holy Father's Foot and Hand a second Time;
+and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither
+_Ruspoli_ followed him, and after having thank'd him for the Honour he had
+done him, went and rejoin'd the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory.
+This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope's Music playing before
+them, to the Chapel, where _Te Deum_ was sung; after which the Cardinals
+went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call'd the _Royal
+Hall_. There they form'd a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank'd his
+Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a
+Brother, and then they all retir'd. When _Ruspoli_ came home, he there
+found a Gentleman of the Pope's Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat,
+which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When
+Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair'd with a great Train to St.
+_Peter_'s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the
+Pretender to the Crown of _England_, and to the Princess his Wife; he also
+made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited
+the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.
+
+A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which
+he both shut and open'd the Mouth of Cardinal _Ruspoli_. At the former
+Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father's Feet, his Holiness
+laid two Fingers on the Cardinal's Mouth, and strictly injoin'd him not so
+reveal to any body what shou'd pass in the Consistories at which he shou'd
+be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv'd the Cardinals
+of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter'd the
+Conclave before the Pope had open'd their Mouths; which might sometimes be
+the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days
+between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But
+_Pius_ V. declar'd by a Bull which he publish'd the 26th of _January_
+1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou'd not
+exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.
+
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_ being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took
+his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc'd
+the Words _extra omnes_, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies,
+and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory
+was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter'd
+the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope's
+Feet, who open'd his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and
+Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to
+bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring
+adorn'd with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a
+Custom establish'd by _Gregory_ XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold
+to the College _de propaganda fide_. With that the Ceremony ended. In the
+Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign
+Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were
+illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.
+
+There are, as I have observ'd, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public,
+the other Secret, and they are both notify'd to the Cardinals by two of
+the Pope's Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father
+himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels
+to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They
+wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the
+Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, _Eminentissime Domine, Crastina
+Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum_, or,
+_fiat Processio._ They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not
+let them wait a Moment; but are oblig'd to admit them, in what Plight
+soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their
+Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find
+a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal
+chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.
+
+This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope's Council of State, wherein
+he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs
+of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to
+each Cardinal, the Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the
+Palls conferr'd upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of
+in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin'd, as is, in short,
+every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in
+Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call'd the Secret
+Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors
+that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new
+Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as
+he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In
+this Public Consistory, the Pope's Throne is rais'd much higher than
+ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers
+plac'd at their Feet. The Constable _Colonna_, in Quality of first Prince
+of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour
+that he yields to none but the Pope's Nephews. The Ambassador of
+_Bologna_, and the Conservators of ROME, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are
+plac'd on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope's great
+Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right,
+the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.
+
+When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in _Petto_, tho' he names him
+not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all
+those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the
+Pope dies ere he has declar'd him in Public, 'tis sufficient if the Holy
+Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he
+declar'd a Cardinal in _Petto_, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest
+that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had
+nominated in _Petto_.
+
+The Dignity of a Cardinal is look'd upon here as the greatest Thing in the
+World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates
+of this Court don't form to obtain it; and a Family at ROME never thinks
+its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so
+true, that one of the first Princes in ROME, who did not want a Hat in his
+Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal
+_Coscia_, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But 'tis mere Ambition
+only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those
+purple Gentry lead, is, as 'tis here said, the most melancholy in the
+World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are
+continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig'd almost every Day to
+be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and
+receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the
+taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds
+his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. 'Tis
+true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify
+such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational
+Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is
+but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their
+Grandeur is a Burden.
+
+When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call'd _in
+Fiochi_, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes
+foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an
+Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho' they are Princes, must
+stop for him; and when two Cardinals meet one another riding out after
+this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment
+each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus
+ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress'd in long Robes of Scarlet,
+except in Time of _Lent_, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is
+that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and 'tis in this Habit
+they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the
+Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person
+has been once introduc'd to them, is to attend in their Train, when they
+go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal,
+when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most
+honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a
+Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.
+
+As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of
+the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can't see wherein it
+consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics
+are generally a _Ma�tre de Chambre_, an Officer who they say is tantamount
+to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one
+or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many _Valets de Chambre_; eight
+or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their
+Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they
+commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the
+Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat
+alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and
+of these, not one does it at present, but the Cardinal _de Polignac_, the
+Minister[7] of _France_: For the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, the Emperor's
+Ambassador, has retrench'd his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has
+the Cardinal[8] _Bentivoglio_, on account of his Infirmities.
+
+I can't help thinking there's much more Reason to exclaim against the
+ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown'd Heads,
+and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho' a Cardinal is often but an ordinary
+Man at first, only rais'd to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of
+the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last
+Pontificate, the Cardinals _Fini_ and _Coscia_. That such Cardinals shou'd
+presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of _Bavaria_, or of
+_Cologne_, of a Duke of _Lorain_, and in short, of every Prince
+whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College,
+I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv'd such a
+high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of
+the Princes of _Italy_, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a
+Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency
+in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of _Italy_. Our Princes on the
+other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much
+devoted to the Holy See, as the _Italian_ Princes are; yet they don't pay
+this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We
+have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there
+are very few of 'em that wou'd refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of
+the Empire.
+
+When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the
+Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience,
+where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after
+having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal
+that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When
+the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a
+Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one
+another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there's a great
+Air of Constraint.
+
+The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope's
+Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are
+distinguish'd into three Orders, _viz._ Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty
+Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix'd by Pope _Sixtus_ the
+Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl'd Dean of the Sacred College. He
+that is so now is Cardinal _Pignatelli_, Archbishop of _Naples_. This
+Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl'd
+_Chiefs of the Order_; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving
+Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical
+State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. _Innocent_ the IVth, while the
+Council was held at _Lyons_, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou'd be
+red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the
+Liberties of the Church. _Boniface_ the VIIIth order'd that they shou'd
+wear scarlet Robes. _Paul_ III. requir'd that their Bonnets shou'd be of
+the same Colour; and _Urban_ the VIIIth granted them the Title of
+Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors
+of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of _Malta_. The Council of _Trent_
+own'd it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of
+Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the
+Kindred of the reigning Pope, the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_ and
+_Spain_, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine,
+many of the Pope's Great Officers.
+
+There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat.
+The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal _Ardicinio_; but Pope
+_Innocent_ VIII. refus'd to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the
+Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be
+depriv'd of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal _Borgia_
+resign'd his Dignity to _Alexander_ VI. The Cardinal _Henry_ of _Portugal_
+quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King
+_Don Sebastian_. After him, _Ferdinand de Medicis_, upon the Death of his
+Brother _Francis de Medicis_, without Issue Male, preferr'd the
+Sovereignty of _Tuscany_ to the red Hat, which he restor'd to Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr'd
+an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly
+Cardinal _Maurice_ of _Savoy_, _Ferdinand_ and _Vincent Gonzague_,
+_Francis_ of _Lorain_, _Camillus Pamphili_, _John Casimir_ of _Poland_;
+and _Gabriel Filippuci_ of _Macerata_, so lately as in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the
+Pope's Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it
+must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs
+wou'd be oblig'd to pay, if he was dead.
+
+There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly
+honour one or other of the Pope's Family with it who advanc'd them to the
+Purple; which is what they here call _Restitution_; and when they omit
+this Piece of Respect, they are accus'd of Ingratitude. _Clement_ XII. has
+not yet made this _Restitution_ to the _Albano_[10] Family, tho' he has
+promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer
+that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which
+he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the _Albani_,
+because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them,
+that he wou'd take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The
+_Albani_ were oblig'd to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not
+give them much for the Hat they are like to have of _Clement_ XII. for you
+are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is
+afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat
+vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion,
+and then to satisfy the _Albani_.
+
+The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they
+deny it. Be this as it will, there's hardly an Instance that the Popes
+ever exercis'd this Act of Authority. _Clement_ XI. had an Intention
+indeed to haue depriv'd Cardinal _Alberoni_ of his Hat, because when the
+Cardinal was the Minister of _Spain_, he employ'd that Money against the
+Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the
+War against the _Turks_. But _Clement_ XI. met with so much Opposition
+from the Sacred College, that he cou'd not accomplish it, and died.
+Whether _Clement_ XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be
+able to deprive _Coscia_ of his Hat, which is what he seems to be very
+much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great
+many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal _Coscia_ is of the
+Purple, are not willing that he shou'd serve as an Example for the future.
+The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho' it
+has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc'd. Cardinal
+_Coscia_ is retir'd to _Naples_. He has been very much blam'd for quitting
+ROME, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur'd me that
+he might have stay'd here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been
+the unfortunate Cardinal _Coscia_, I wou'd have retir'd, but not in the
+Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that
+he is now, they shou'd cite me long enough before I wou'd be seen at ROME;
+and I think, whoever advis'd him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11].
+
+You know that immediately after the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. the
+Populace ran to _Coscia_'s Palace, plunder'd it, and wou'd have torn the
+Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap'd by a Back-door; after
+which, he disguis'd himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come
+back again, or else he shou'd have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues,
+whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his
+Archbishoprick of _Benevento_, after the Election of the new Pope; but he
+did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and
+afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten'd him with
+the Castle of _St. Angelo_; whereupon he was frighten'd, and march'd out
+of the Country; which is charg'd upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. of the _Pamphili_ Family, publish'd the 19th of _February_,
+1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the
+Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the
+Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon'd three times in the Space of
+fifteen Months, _viz._ once at the End of each six Months, and the last
+Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the
+Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv'd of
+the Hat. _Coscia_ has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem
+inclin'd to return, tho' his Acquaintance don't stick to affirm that he
+will. Mean time, he has been depriv'd of the Archbishoprick of
+_Benevento_, which the Pope has conferr'd on[12] M. _Doria_, the first
+Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal _Coscia_
+complain'd of it bitterly, tho' to no manner of Purpose. I question
+whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho' the Pope were
+to give him his Passport: And really, what happen'd to M. _Targa_, his
+Brother, is enough to deter him; for this _Prelate_ coming to _Venice_,
+after he had been at _Vienna_, soliciting the Emperor's Protection for
+himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order'd him to return to ROME;
+which, after having desir'd, and obtain'd Promise of a Safeguard for his
+Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two
+Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not
+to stir out of it without his Leave. _Targa_ yields Obedience, and the
+Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all
+this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry'd him off to the
+Castle of _St. Angelo_; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope
+intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin'd, and can speak
+to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his
+Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the
+Holy See, we hear of nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men,
+or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others
+suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior _Sardini_, who was
+impeach'd of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King
+of _Sardinia_, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination
+to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was
+arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of
+_St. Angelo_, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days
+before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz'd, which he desir'd to
+have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus'd. Some
+Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify
+himself, if he cou'd; to which _Sardini_ made Answer, That he had nothing
+to say; that the Pope shou'd be his Judge, and Cardinal _Corsini_, his
+Holiness's Nephew, shou'd be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in
+no stead; he is still in Prison, and 'tis said, that the Pope will either
+behead or pardon him.
+
+Some time ago Cardinal _Ottoboni_ made Interest for one _Nocera_, a Canon,
+who was in Trouble also upon _Sardini_'s Account; and he desir'd the Pope
+that he wou'd please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person
+of _Nocera_, who was retir'd to a Sanctuary at _Albano_. The Pope made
+Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he cou'd not grant him his
+Request; but that he wou'd not charge his Conference with the Sin of
+having suffer'd Iniquity to pass with Impunity. 'We are old, _said the
+Holy Father_; and our Age tells us, that it can't be long before we shall
+appear at God's Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that
+we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if
+we don't let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether
+we shall live till To-morrow?' 'Your Holiness, _reply'd the Cardinal_,
+ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great
+Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the
+other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of
+Justice, and 'tis to be hop'd, that he will also permit you to run that of
+Mercy.'
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had
+from Cardinal _Imperiali_, who has had the Purple so long, that he is
+actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the
+Ecclesiastical State without the Pope's Leave, he told me, That _Innocent_
+X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal _Astalli_,
+his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to
+all the Rout was this: After the _Portuguese_ had shook off the Yoke of
+the _Spaniards_, and restor'd the _Braganza_ Family to the Throne, the
+King of _Spain_, who always took the Title of King of _Portugal_,
+pretended that 'twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and
+Benefices that became vacant in _Portugal_. The Pope was at that time in
+so much Subjection to the _Spaniards_, that this Plea of their Monarch
+perplex'd him sadly. At last he thought of extricating himself out of
+this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the
+_Portuguese_ Bishopricks, and he resolv'd to assemble one with all Speed
+for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal
+Secretary of State, and the Cardinal _Astalli_, whom he injoin'd not to
+speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be
+summon'd for the next Day, the Ambassador of _Spain_ made such an earnest
+Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The
+Minister therein told him, That he was inform'd of his Design; and at the
+same time protested against every thing that shou'd be done in the said
+Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope,
+very much incens'd that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had
+been betray'd by his Secretary of State, and he reproach'd him for it
+bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore,
+that he had not reveal'd it to the _Spaniard_; and he said moreover, That
+if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness's Secret, it cou'd be only from
+Cardinal _Astalli_. He desir'd but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove
+his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent
+for one of the _Spanish_ Ambassador's _Valets de Chambre_, and promis'd
+him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou'd
+search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was
+in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal _Astalli_. The _Valet
+de Chambre_ cou'd not stand the Temptation, but carry'd the fatal Letter
+to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope;
+whose Wrath was then wholly turn'd against _Astalli_, to such a Degree,
+that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him arrested
+the very next Day: But _Astalli_ disappointed him of that Pleasure,
+escap'd the same Night in a _Felucca_ from ROME, and sail'd for _Sicily_.
+Then it was that _Innocent_ X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus'd
+_Astalli_ to be summon'd, who indeed return'd to the Dominions of the Holy
+See; but he stay'd in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of _Naples_,
+where he was accompany'd by a Guard of two thousand _Spaniards_, who
+remain'd with him as long as the Pope liv'd, after whose Death _Astalli_
+return'd to ROME. I have the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, Sept. 5, 1731._
+
+Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you
+honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all
+the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected
+Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported
+to me; if I accuse wrongfully, 'tis owing to my Misinformation, or my
+Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can't
+define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I
+will now relate them to you as they pass'd this Year.
+
+On _Palm_ Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_ to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.
+
+Upon the last _Wednesday_ in _Lent_, the Cardinals went after Dinner to
+the Pope's Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the _Tenebr�_,
+sung by the Pope's Voices, without being accompany'd by Instruments. 'Tis
+perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos'd, and 'tis
+so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give
+Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.
+
+The Pope being somewhat indispos'd upon _Holy Thursday_, Cardinal
+_Barberini_ officiated for him. The Cardinals repair'd in the Morning to
+the _Vatican_ in _Sixtus_'s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which
+the Cardinal _Barberini_, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in
+Mitres and white Copes, carry'd the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a
+Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into _Paul_'s Chapel, which was
+finely illuminated. There our Lord's Body was deposited, after which the
+Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers
+Nations, dress'd in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all
+sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal _Barberini_, who
+sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and
+having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc'd some Collects, which were
+answer'd by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin,
+and went and wash'd the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which
+was carry'd by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip'd their Feet dry,
+he kiss'd them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the
+Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he
+reascended the Throne, and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up
+the _Pater-noster_, and the Music finish'd it. This done, he went with the
+Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum'd his ordinary
+Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the
+Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was
+elegantly serv'd. The Pope's Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if
+the Pope had been well, he wou'd have done the same himself. The Cardinals
+din'd also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most
+sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of
+certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests
+Table is defray'd by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both
+Tables is order'd by the Pope's _Major Domo_. The Cardinal's Beaufet is
+very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that
+is better dispos'd. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with 'em;
+which, 'tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that
+happen'd to Pope _Alexander_ VI. and his Son _C�sar Borgia_, Duke _de
+Valentinois_, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the
+Cardinal _Adrian de Cornetto_, order'd Wine that was poison'd to be serv'd
+up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said
+Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But _Cornetto_ had
+the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and _C�sar_ suffer'd
+by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and
+calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was
+let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill'd them out each
+a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar'd, which kill'd the Pope; but
+_C�sar_, having caus'd himself to be wrapp'd up in the Skin of a Mule,
+recover'd.
+
+After Dinner, the Cardinals return'd to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where they
+assisted at the _Tenebr�_, and the _Miserere_. This Day's Ceremony of
+washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes.
+We find in the History of _France_, that _Robert_ the _Pious_, he that was
+call'd King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two
+hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash'd their Feet, particularly
+upon Holy _Thursday_. So at _Vienna_, _Versailles_, in _Spain_, and at
+several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign
+Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.
+
+Upon good _Friday_ in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at
+Divine Service in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; after which, they din'd together, but
+they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope's Chaplains read the
+Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the _Miserere_, and
+then they all went down into St. _Peter_'s Church, where, having form'd a
+Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel'd down upon Cushions of
+purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc'd the Reliques, which were held
+forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our
+Saviour's Side was pierc'd, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of
+the Cross on which he was crucify'd.
+
+On _Saturday_ the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_.
+
+Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress'd in
+his _Pontificalibus_, was carry'd in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
+where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
+Priest. Then the Pope was carry'd to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
+Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Coena Domini_ with an
+audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
+against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
+After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir'd from the Castles
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the
+Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
+led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
+and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
+Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the
+Saviour of the World, the Pope's Chapel is stripp'd of all Ornaments, the
+Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
+so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.
+
+Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
+that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_'s
+of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
+Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
+Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_.
+This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes
+mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th
+Volume, that 'twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_,
+to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_'s consecrated by the Pope. And
+Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus
+Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn'd
+with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_'s in the
+first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
+Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
+their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform'd the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_
+after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_,
+which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope's
+Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
+between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
+his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
+to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of
+Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
+the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover'd with red Damask,
+there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
+solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
+gilt, Admirably carv'd by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
+Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
+Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
+Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
+Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
+same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry'd on.
+Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
+was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
+Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp'd them into
+the Holy Water, and carry'd it to mix with the Water that was in the four
+Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
+and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
+two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and
+the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_'s in wooden Tubs,
+wash'd with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
+fill'd with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish'd them up again
+with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
+Prelates deliver'd to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
+Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
+retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
+they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_'s, which they say cost the
+Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.
+
+Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_'s with very
+great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry'd in his
+Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated
+on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform'd by the Music, one
+of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_'s in a Silver Bason,
+preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
+Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter'd the
+Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater
+Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
+venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir
+answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
+kneel'd down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
+as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope's Throne, to whom
+he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_'s, in little Packets, wrapp'd up
+in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
+Standers-by, who receiv'd them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
+only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.
+
+There's a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
+are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
+princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
+a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
+complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
+the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
+their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
+in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
+without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
+are pleas'd to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
+Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
+Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
+Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
+like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
+follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
+and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
+carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
+a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
+Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
+pass by.
+
+The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
+of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex'd to
+_Nepotism_ have been abolish'd, they have been oblig'd to humble
+themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
+correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope's Nieces did not
+give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
+general were oblig'd to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
+nor did the Nieces go to any body's House, but enjoy'd all the Honours of
+Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
+not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
+their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and
+complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho' the Pope has
+declar'd their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
+the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
+vastly pleas'd with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
+it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.
+
+Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in
+the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach'd to
+the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
+the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the
+Nobility, but as much dislik'd by the Princes. 'What! _said the Pope_, Do
+the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
+when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
+now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho' I
+have declar'd my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
+old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.'
+
+I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy'd any
+solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
+Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest
+them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
+this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
+Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
+and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
+because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated
+from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
+Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
+delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
+them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
+Inferiors in Birth.
+
+Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
+their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
+no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of
+them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
+most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
+for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over,
+the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
+Compliments at meeting are set aside.
+
+The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
+their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
+a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
+they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
+Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again
+when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
+find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
+Money.
+
+The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
+Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
+who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
+five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp'd to give their
+Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
+the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp'd at the very same
+Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
+the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
+little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
+going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_
+Dutchess, who having travell'd in that manner at ROME, would fain have
+introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that
+Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
+with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
+Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.
+
+Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
+but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately
+match'd his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
+which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost
+more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and 'tis as much as a
+Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
+Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
+generally accompany'd by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
+with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
+Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
+are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
+part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
+a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
+as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his
+Service his Master _jubil�es_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
+and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
+Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
+what matters it, say they, how they look?
+
+This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
+they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
+maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_
+and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
+has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
+borrow'd of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
+Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn'd up behind his Ears,
+and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon'd indecent here to
+see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon'd Prostitutes
+are always attended with a Matron.
+
+The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform'd here with very great
+Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
+the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the
+Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
+the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black.
+Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
+of the Church, dress'd in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn'd
+towards the Choir, and the Cardinal's Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de
+Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
+Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas'd: There were an hundred great Tapers
+or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
+Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
+the Cardinals enter'd the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
+Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
+the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine,
+&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
+Corpse: The Cardinals retir'd after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos'd
+till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
+Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos'd in
+another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
+_Ruspoli_'s Corpse was expos'd in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_,
+which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de
+Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased's
+Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, 'tis barbarous to
+oblige Relations to attend each other's Funerals, as is the Fashion with
+us.
+
+But tho' they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
+more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman's Mourning is black from
+Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
+which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
+Complexion. The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
+nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a
+Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
+Kindred of a Pope.
+
+They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
+sooner. 'Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
+whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow'd is always done
+with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
+their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
+with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn'd
+throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
+are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
+adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
+in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play'd off in
+the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
+Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all
+Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
+Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to
+it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho' all that they
+see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
+Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover'd
+with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There's
+scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
+these Fireworks.
+
+The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
+the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
+extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
+It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._
+one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one
+_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three
+_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
+President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
+Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
+made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_.
+
+The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in
+partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
+and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown'd Heads[15]; tho'
+I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
+saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
+Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
+require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
+Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
+Officers; and the Provost, who is call'd the _Barrigello_, with 300
+Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
+who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
+saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
+know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
+by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
+Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
+Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major
+Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
+abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
+Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
+give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
+the condemn'd Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of
+the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
+it but to be made a Cardinal.
+
+Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend
+that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, 'tis but a poor
+Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
+ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
+Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
+styl'd Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
+Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
+to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
+between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also
+under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
+at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress'd in
+a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin'd with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
+Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope's Chapel, and goes, like the
+Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
+Cardinal Nephew of what has pass'd at his Bar; he is then dress'd in a
+long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
+Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
+of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
+great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
+Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.
+
+Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
+Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The
+first, tho' 'tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
+itself; the Malefactor being ty'd with his two Hands together to a Rope,
+by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
+a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
+to be hang'd, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
+Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
+Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
+Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
+Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
+_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn'd. _Here
+he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the
+Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will
+remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the
+Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
+with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him
+in the middle, and carry him thro' several Galleries and Turnings towards
+the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
+the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
+Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time
+throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
+it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
+Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
+Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
+Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
+the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
+_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die
+willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
+the best Advice that he can.
+
+The _Italians_ generally make their _Exit_ like good Christians, but 'tis
+with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn'd to die some Years ago
+for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon _Sodom_, would not
+hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal _Banchieri_, at that time
+only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of
+God to pardon his Sins; _What!_ said the Criminal to him, _Would you have
+me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don't
+know_, said the Cardinal, _of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit
+such a Crime; but if there are, they don't plead guilty in the Face of
+Justice_. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to
+him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. _True_, reply'd the
+Convict, _but they are not all hang'd_.
+
+After a Criminal has confess'd, he receives the Sacraments, and the
+Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o'Clock, which is
+the Hour of Execution, he is convey'd in a Cart to the Gallows, to which
+he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they
+are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a
+Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the
+Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the
+Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and
+then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his
+Pain. After he is expir'd, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even
+in the Pope's Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a
+Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at
+length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury'd like another
+Man.
+
+You'll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal
+Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to
+write, so that I hope you won't take it ill that I add no more to this. I
+am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Rome, October 10, 1731._
+
+This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from
+ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put
+to me in your last.
+
+You desire, _Sir_, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy
+Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that
+such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro' a Perspective in all
+his Glory and Grandeur, shou'd be able to paint him? No, Sir, the
+Successors of St. _Peter_ are not like other Princes: None but such of
+their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them
+thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them
+always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell
+me, that in all Courts 'tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this,
+one may judge of Princes by their Actions. 'Tis very true, yet this gives
+us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without
+meaning either.
+
+To judge by outward Appearances, _Clement_ XII. may be rank'd among the
+greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was
+Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that
+Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt
+in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances,
+which were very much disorder'd by the Ministers of _Benedict_ XIII.
+renders him an [OE]conomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He
+has the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus'd of
+being more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of _Parma_, (which they give
+out here was devolv'd to the Holy See by the death of the Duke _Francis
+Farnese_) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the
+Constitution in _France_: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but
+he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews,
+whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given
+them very little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to
+every body; he liv'd magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be
+a prodigal Pope, than a _saving_ one: He was civil and affable, but not
+very ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought
+that was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent
+his Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the
+_Romans_, who had other Reasons not to be pleas'd with his Election, said
+he rose to the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet.
+
+Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is
+desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own
+Minister. But 'tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and
+he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ'd in State
+Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all
+this it were to be wish'd, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that
+he had been chose Pope in the place of _Benedict_ XIII. But 'tis the
+Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass'd
+with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: 'Tis
+pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that
+constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the
+good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho' he has not been sixteen Months in
+the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not
+generally approv'd of. Among other coarse _Pasquinades_ that were utter'd
+upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix'd to several Gates of the
+Pontifical Palace, _Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti,
+ed un Minchione, +i. e.+ Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen
+and one Fool_. Those five Cardinals were Signior _Guadagno_, the Pope's
+Nephew, formerly a barefooted _Carmelite_; Signior _Doria Maestro di
+Camera_, Archbishop of _Benevento_; Signior _Gentili_, a _Datary_, who had
+been formerly _Secretary of the Congregation of the Bishops, and the
+Regular Clergy_, a Post which, tho' the very next Step to a Cardinal's
+Cap, the Pope had made him resign for the Office of a _Datary_, which is
+but a mean Commission; Signior _Ferrayo_, and Signior _Bichi_, both
+Nuncios in _Portugal_.
+
+The last is noted for the Broils that he occasion'd between the Holy See
+and the Court of _Lisbon_: The King of _Portugal_ being disgusted with
+this Nuncio for having defrauded him of the Customs, by entring Goods upon
+his own Account, which he sold afterwards to the Prejudice of the
+_Portuguese_ Merchants, and being moreover exasperated with this Prelate
+for assuming more Authority to himself, than his Predecessors had ever
+done, demanded of _Clement_ XI. to recall him; and upon that Pope's Death
+he repeated his Instances to _Innocent_ XIII. who at length consented to
+his Demand: But then the King, for what Cause I know not, alter'd his
+Mind, and declared he was not willing that _Bichi_ should leave his Court
+till the Term of his Nunciature was expired. And as the Pope had nominated
+M. _Ferrayo_ to relieve _Bichi_, and was obstinate for the Return of the
+latter to ROME, the King order'd his Ambassador to demand of the Pope for
+what Reason he recall'd _Bichi_; and in case the Holy Father should
+declare that it was to punish his Nuncio, He injoin'd him to say, that
+this Minister was intirely innocent of the Matters laid to his Charge in
+_Portugal_; but that if, on the contrary, the Pope should give him to
+understand, that he recall'd _Bichi_, to give him such an Office in the
+Apostolical Palace as might secure him a Cardinal's Hat, he the Ambassador
+should then make Answer, that His _Portuguese_ Majesty was of Opinion,
+the Dignity of Nuncio at his Court ought to procure the Purple for all
+those who resided with him in that Quality; and that therefore his Majesty
+would never suffer M. _Bichi_ to depart from _Lisbon_, till he was
+declared a Cardinal.
+
+The Pope exclaimed against the King's new Demand, repeated his Orders to
+_Bichi_ to return to ROME, and sent away M. _Ferrayo_ for _Portugal_. But
+the King would not let _Bichi_ go out of the Kingdom, nor _Ferrayo_ come
+into it; and _Bichi_ himself refus'd to obey the Holy Father, who
+threaten'd him with Excommunication, but the Prelate, being sure of the
+King's Protection, did not much value the Apostolical Censures. The King
+in short continu'd to solicit the Hat for him strenuously; but _Innocent_
+XIII. would not hear it mention'd, alledging that it was not proper for
+him, who, in Quality of Cardinal Protector of _Portugal_, had impeach'd
+_Bichi_ at the Holy See, to advance him to the Purple. _Benedict_ XIII.
+who was of a beneficent and pacific Disposition, no sooner came to the
+Pontificate, but he wrote a Letter with his own Hand to the King of
+_Portugal_, wherein he promis'd him the Hat for _Bichi_. The Sacred
+College, when they were inform'd of the Pope's Intentions, made smart
+Remonstrances to him, and every Cardinal in particular represented to him
+how unworthy _Bichi_ was of the Purple. Cardinal _Corsini_, the present
+Pope, was the Man that declar'd himself against that Prelate with the
+greatest Warmth; for he told the Pope, that notwithstanding his Respect
+for his Holiness, he would never consent that _Bichi_, that dishonourable,
+that faithless Man, (which were the Epithets wherewith he honour'd him)
+should be one of his Brethren. In a Word, the whole Sacred College shew'd
+so much Disgust at the Thoughts of this Promotion, that the Pope was
+oblig'd to revoke the Promise he had made to the King of _Portugal_. That
+Monarch, incensed to see himself made a Jest of by the Priests, recalled
+his Ambassador and Envoy then at ROME, and ordered his Subjects to leave
+that City, and to have nothing more to do with the Holy See. And the Pope,
+in his Turn, recalled _Ferrayo_, who still continued in _Spain_, on the
+Frontier of _Portugal_, and summoned _Bichi_ to ROME, whither at last he
+was determined to return.
+
+During this, _Benedict_ XIII. died, and _Clement_ XII. succeeding him,
+_Bichi_, who is his Kinsman, went to _Sienna_, the Place of his Birth.
+There it was that he heard of his Promotion, which was made on the 24th of
+_September_ last, but not without strong Debates in the Sacred College. A
+great number of the Cardinals put the Holy Father in mind, that he was
+formerly the most zealous Stickler against _Bichi_: And in the Consistory
+wherein the Pope propos'd him, a Cardinal gave his Opinion, that the
+Prelate might be admitted into the Sacred College in Quality of a
+Penitent, The Pope happening to say, that he knew of no other Way to come
+to an Accommodation with the King of _Portugal_, than by making _Bichi_ a
+Cardinal; one of the Cardinals made Answer, 'I question whether the
+promoting of _Bichi_ will set us to Rights with _Portugal_; but let it
+happen as it may, 'twill be, at the worst, but one Hat more ill bestow'd.'
+
+The _Romans_ actually pine for an Accommodation with _Portugal_; for the
+Ambassadors of that Crown have always expended great Sums here, especially
+since the Accession of the present King, who has caus'd a great deal of
+Money to be laid out here in Statues, Pictures, and other Things of Value.
+'Tis reckon'd upon the whole, that the Absence of the _Portuguese_ is a
+Loss to the City of ROME of above a Million of _Roman_ Crowns in a Year.
+
+The Pope's Nephews are like their Uncle, Men of great Sincerity, Honour
+and Probity; but whether 'tis owing to the Indolence of their Tempers, or
+to their Want of Interest with their Uncle, they serve nobody, and know
+not the Pleasure of doing Good. The Cardinal, who should naturally have
+the most Credit, is he that has the least: He is penurious to the last
+Degree[16]. Before he was made a Cardinal and Minister, People conceiv'd a
+high Idea of him; they believ'd that a Person who had travelled so much as
+he had done, and who had been many Years employ'd by the Great Duke in
+_France_, and at the Congress of _Cambray_, must needs be well versed in
+Business; therefore they apply this Verse to him,
+
+        _Tel brille au second rang, qui s'eclipse au premier._
+
+                               i. e.
+
+  _He shines so much in the second Class, as eclipses him in the first._
+
+Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don't look upon him as a
+Minister. He is so reserved, that 'tis quite disgusting; and when he
+grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who
+receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will
+have very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies.
+
+In the same Consistory wherein the Pope made _Bichi_ a Cardinal, the Holy
+Father talk'd a great deal about the Succession of _Parma_. He complain'd
+in general Terms of the Emperor, for arrogating to himself those
+Prerogatives relating to the Dominions of _Parma_, which were only due to
+the Holy See. He acquainted the Sacred College with every thing that he
+had done for maintaining the Rights of the Church; he said, that as soon
+as he was informed that the Duchess of _Parma_ was really not with Child,
+he ordered his _Nuncio_ at _Parma_ to take Possession of the Dominions,
+that were devolved to the Holy See by the Extinction of the Male Line of
+the _Farnese_ Family; that his _Nuncio_ had executed his Orders; but that
+_Stampa_, the Emperor's General and Commissary, had caus'd an Edict to be
+publish'd, whereby, in the Name of the Emperor, he forbad all the Subjects
+of _Parma_ from owning any other Sovereign, but him to whom his Imperial
+Majesty shou'd give the Investiture of the Duchy. The Pope said, he was
+sorry when he heard _Stampa_ had taken that Step; but that he expected
+from the Emperor's Justice and Piety, that he wou'd not approve of the
+Conduct of his General, and that he wou'd not do any thing contrary to the
+incontestable Claim of the Holy See to the Dominions of the _Farnese_
+Family. The Cardinals returned a very modest Answer to the Pope, thanking
+him for the Endeavours he had us'd to maintain the Rights of the Holy See,
+and praying him to continue them. The Cardinals _Cienfuegos_ and
+_Bentivoglio_, being inform'd of all the Complaints which the Pope
+intended to make in this Consistory, took care not to be there. These
+Gentlemen are extremely angry with the Emperor; 'What! _said they_, to
+have no more Respect for the Pope and the Holy See, to invade the Estates
+of the Church, and dispose of them as he pleases, are these Actions
+becoming an Emperor, Protector of the Catholic Faith?' Really, to hear how
+they talk, one wou'd think the Emperor had actually taken all they had
+from 'em; tho' I am persuaded, that if he would but give them the Duchy of
+_Parma_, they wou'd consent to his being a _Jansenist_.
+
+You desire, Sir, to be inform'd of the Reception that is given here to
+Ambassadors. I shou'd have done this long before you desired it, if I had
+seen any Ambassador go to an Audience of the Pope, besides the _Maltese_,
+who has not so grand a Reception here as the Ambassadors of Crown'd Heads.
+'Twas on the second _Sunday_ in _Lent_, in the Afternoon, that the
+Ambassador of _Malta_, who has resided here six Years in Quality of
+Ambassador of that Order, made his Entry as Tributary Ambassador
+Extraordinary. This Minister, repairing without any Retinue to the
+Vineyard of Pope _Julius_, without the Gate _del Popoli_, was complimented
+there, on the Part of the Pope, by the _Major Domo_, and the oldest
+Prelate; and on the Part of the Cardinals, and principal Nobility, by
+their Gentlemen. After this, the Cavalcade was made with more Order than
+is commonly observ'd here at public Ceremonies. First came the several
+Coaches and Six of the Cardinals, Princes, and other Persons of
+Distinction, following one another without Observation of the respective
+Ranks of their Owners. Then came two of the Ambassador's Grooms on
+Horseback, who were follow'd by four cover'd Waggons, and a Couple of
+Field Carriages, cover'd with Tapestry, that was embroidered with his
+Excellency's Coat of Arms. Next came the Ambassador's Master of the
+Horse, follow'd by six led Horses, two Trumpets, with the Lackeys, _Valets
+de Chambre_, Pages, and Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador, all on
+Horseback. These were follow'd by the chief Lackeys of the Cardinals
+riding upon Mules, and carrying their Master's red Hats flung over their
+Shoulders; and after these came the Cardinals Gentlemen, who were follow'd
+by a Detachment of Light-horse. The Chamberlains of Honour follow'd riding
+upon Mules. The Knights of _Malta_ on Horseback rode just before the
+Ambassador, who was supported by the _Major Domo_, and Signior _Colonna_,
+the oldest Prelate. His Excellency was preceded by twelve running Footmen
+in his Livery, and he walked in the Middle of a Couple of Files of the
+hundred _Switzers_ of the Pope's Guard. Three of the Ambassador's Coaches
+and Six clos'd the March. The whole Train pass'd thro' the chief Streets
+of ROME, and accompany'd the Ambassador to his Palace, where his
+Excellency treated all the Company with Refreshments.
+
+On the Day of Audience, the Ambassador went in his Equipage to the Palace
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, attended by the Coaches of the Cardinals and the
+Nobility. He was receiv'd at the Top of the Stairs by the _Major Domo_,
+who conducted him into that called the Prince's Apartment. The Ambassador
+having waited there a little Time, two Masters of the Ceremonies came to
+acquaint him, that his Holiness was ready to admit him to an Audience in
+the Consistory then sitting. The Ambassador went thither, conducted by the
+Masters of the Ceremonies; and Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_,
+received him at the Entrance of the Hall of the Consistory, and conducted
+him to the Entrance of the Court fronting the Pope. The Ambassador fell on
+his Knees, and made a profound Obeisance to the Pope, who gave him his
+Blessing. Then he fell on his Knees again in the Middle of the Court, and
+the third Time at the Pope's Feet, to whom he made his Speech kneeling. In
+this Posture he also delivered the Letter from the Grand Master to the
+Holy Father, who gave it to a Prelate, ordering him to read it. The
+Ambassador arose, and having crossed the Court, saluting the Cardinals on
+the Right and Left, he fell on his Knees at the Entrance of the Court,
+opposite to the Holy Father. There he heard the Grand Master's Letter
+read, and afterwards a very long Speech in _Latin_, which an Abbat, who
+was a Knight of _Malta_, made in the Name of the Order, upon his Knees.
+The Prelate had no sooner read the Letter, but he answered the Speech in
+_Latin_. The Ambassador, who was still on his Knees, arose, after the
+Prelate had ended his Speech; went and kneel'd again at the Pope's Feet,
+which he kiss'd, and then presented to his Holiness the Knights of
+_Malta_, who had accompany'd him to the Audience, and who all kiss'd the
+Holy Father's Feet. The Pope, rising from his Seat, retir'd to his
+Apartment; but the Ambassador stay'd in the Hall of the Consistory, till
+all the Cardinals were gone out. He then returned to his Palace, where he
+gave a grand Repast to the Knights of his Order. The next and the
+following Days, he made his Visits of Ceremony to the Cardinals. Their
+Eminencies don't give Precedence to the Ambassadors; but bating that only,
+they treat them as their Equals.
+
+I have been assured, that the Ambassadors Extraordinary of Kings are
+lodged three Days in the Pontifical Palace, during which they have the
+Honour to dine once with the Holy Father. If I continue here till the
+Arrival of the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, who is
+every Day expected, I will give you an Account how he is received; for
+tho' these Ceremonies are printed here, I shall be willing to have ocular
+Demonstration of the Things that I write to you.
+
+Of all the public Functions at this Place, there is none more august, and
+more solemn, than the Procession with the Holy Sacrament, when 'tis
+carry'd by the Pope. Upon _Corpus Christi_ Day, the Holy Father was placed
+in an Arm-chair, without a Back to it, with a Desk before him, upon which
+he laid the Pyx that contained the Holy Sacrament. His Cope, which was
+very long, and very wide, so cover'd the Desk and the Chair, that the Pope
+seemed to be kneeling. His Head was uncovered, and in this Posture he was
+carry'd by eight Men. In my whole Life, I never saw any thing more
+exemplary than the Countenance of the Pope during the Ceremony, his Face
+being the very Picture of Contrition and Devotion. The Procession set out
+from St. _Peter_'s Church, attended by all the Fraternities, the Monastic
+Orders, the _Roman_ Nobility, the Conservators of ROME, the Governor of
+ROME, the Chapter of St. _Peter_, and all the Prelates and Bishops. Three
+_Tiara_'s, and as many Mitres, adorn'd with Pearls and Diamonds, were
+carry'd before the Holy Father. The Pope was environed with the hundred
+_Swiss_ of his Guards, all in Armour, and by the Officers of his Chamber;
+and the Procession was clos'd by the Light-horse, and Cuirassiers on
+Horseback. The Colonnade of St. _Peter_, and the Streets, were hung with
+Tapestry, and cover'd with Canvas, to keep off the Heat of the Sun. As the
+Pope passed by the House where the Family of the _Stuarts_ liv'd, he gave
+to those Princes the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament. The Holy Father's
+Nieces were in a neighbouring House; but they did not receive that
+Honour, it being reserved only for Sovereigns.
+
+You seem, Sir, to be so much prejudiced against the holy Office of the
+Inquisition, that I must endeavour to convince you of the mistaken Notion,
+which, I presume to say, you have conceived upon that Head. Honest People
+have no more Reason to dread this Tribunal, than any of the other Courts
+of Justice. They tell a thousand Stories of it in our Part of the World,
+and especially among the _Protestants_, which are absolute Falsehoods. Be
+but an honest Man; speak of God and the Saints with all due Respect, or at
+least don't offer to insult them; give no public Scandal; and you have
+nothing to fear from the Holy Office. To speak the Truth, will not a Man
+in all the Christian Countries, that is notoriously impious in Word or
+Deed, will he not be taken to Talk by the Consistories, and by the Law? I
+own, for my part, that I don't see wherein that Barbarity, and that
+Inhumanity consists, which the Holy Office is charg'd with in _Protestant_
+Countries; on the contrary, it seems to me to be the mildest Tribunal in
+the World. Let me be guilty of the greatest Injuries to God and Religion,
+in Thought, Word or Deed; if I do but go and confess my Crimes to the Holy
+Office, and tell them I repent of my Wickedness and Folly, the Father
+Commissary will represent the Horror of my Sins to me, will exhort me, for
+the Salvation of my Soul, to behave and think better for the future, and
+at last will absolve me. Where now is that _Protestant_ Tribunal, which is
+content with a voluntary Confession? Instead of absolving the Penitent,
+don't they condemn him to Imprisonment, and bodily Pains?
+
+For these sixteen Months that I have been at ROME, I have not heard of any
+one's being arrested by the Holy Office; on the contrary, I have seen
+Acts of Clemency perform'd by this Tribunal, so much run down, which
+perhaps the Consistory of _Geneva_ would never have done. I had not long
+been here, but there came one _Pallas_, a Native of _Toulon_, and Captain
+in _France_, who brought a young Woman with him, whom he said he had
+ravish'd; he desir'd a License of the Vicar to marry her, which was
+granted. But some Months after, there comes a Woman, who appear'd to be
+the Wife of _Pallas_, and the Mother of the young Creature that he had but
+just married, and who was ready to lie in. _Pallas_, perceiving his Crime
+on the Brink of being detected, goes and reveals the whole to the Holy
+Office, which first gave him Protection for his Person, and in a few Days
+after acquitted him, injoining him at the same time to take his first Wife
+again. This _Pallas_ dying not many Days after, his two Wives went to Law
+for their Jointure. I question now whether this Officer would have been
+acquitted by a Parliament of _France_.
+
+The Congregation of the Holy Office was established by Pope _Paul_ III. at
+the Solicitation of the Cardinal _John Peter Caraffa_, who afterwards,
+becoming Pope, by the Name of _Paul_ IV. made a remarkable Addition to the
+Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, _Pius_ V. reduced it to its
+present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a
+Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are
+called _Consultori & Qualificatori del Santo Officio_. Among those are
+included a Conventual, the General of the _Dominicans_, the Master of the
+Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the
+Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes
+Cognizance of the Causes of Heresy, and of such novel Opinions as are
+repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of
+Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked
+Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits
+twice a Week, _viz._ on _Wednesdays_ in the Convent of _Minerva_, and on
+_Thursdays_ in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest
+Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper
+of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no
+Proposals but what they think proper.
+
+The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. _Peter_'s Church, and there
+live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and
+other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are
+try'd, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office
+acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the
+Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive
+Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation.
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the
+_Romans_ in particular, and the _Italians_ in general, I mean its to the
+reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of _Italy_.
+That the _Romans_ hate the _Florentines_, I think I have told you more
+than once; but that's not all, for they as heartily hate the _Neapolitans_
+and the _Genoese_. They commonly say, that there must be seven _Jews_ to
+make one _Genoese_, and seven _Genoese_ to make one _Florentine_. 'Tis
+unaccountable how the People of _Italy_ can so hate one another. I can't
+imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does
+them; for, in short, 'tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to
+another, but it diffuses its Poison to the Towns that are subject to one
+and the same Sovereign. These People don't consider that they form one and
+the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be
+both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek
+to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid
+Support of their Liberty.
+
+To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho' our _Germany_ is divided
+into many more Dominions than _Italy_ is, we do however form a Body
+against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties.
+The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor's Will; and their own Interest,
+and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with
+one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the _Italian_
+Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a
+Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview
+with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to
+adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between _Philip_ IV.
+and _Lewis_ XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act
+towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful
+Kingdoms? 'Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the
+Governments and Towns of _Italy_, that has made them for a long time the
+Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good
+Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature
+has furnish'd them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don't defend,
+'tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of
+all Dominions is determin'd, would not have it so.
+
+Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you
+again, much less when I shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho'
+there's scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do
+you but render me like for like, and be assur'd that nobody in the World
+is more strictly than I am, _Yours, &c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731._
+
+The Road from _Rome_ to LORETTO has been so fully describ'd, that I think
+I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of
+the _Santa Casa_, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the
+Place where it now stands. If you would be inform'd of the Treasure of
+this House, look into the Voyages of _Misson_, who has given a large
+Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much
+increas'd, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it.
+The Queen of _France_ has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for
+the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth
+of the Dauphin.
+
+From _Loretto_ to BOLOGNA the Road is good, and 'tis a fine fruitful
+Country; I stay'd three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see
+the Cardinal _Grimani_, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a
+Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected
+Behaviour. He has been _Internuncio_ at _Brussels_, _Nuncio_ at
+_Cologne_, and in _Poland_, and in this Quality he resided at _Vienna_,
+when he was advanc'd to the Purple. I knew him at all those _Nunciatures_;
+I saw him at _Rome_, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have
+now seen him again at _Bologna_, and find he is the same Man now he is
+both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an _Internuncio_[17]. For
+'tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners.
+
+Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the _Apennine_ Hills a
+second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all
+Thoughts of being at _Leghorn_ at the Arrival of the Fleets from _Spain_
+and _England_, I have been at FLORENCE, and have had the Honour to wait on
+the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly
+paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at _Dusseldorp_, and
+she was now pleas'd to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of
+Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very
+retir'd, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the
+Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince's Equipage.
+
+I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great
+Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an
+Audience of him; yet I attain'd to that Honour at the very Time when I
+least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress's Apartment, I
+met one of the Great Duke's _Valets de Chambre_, who came to tell me,
+That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz'd
+me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he
+convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the
+_Valet de Chambre_ introduc'd me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke
+sitting upright in Bed, accompany'd by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on
+but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse
+Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear'd with Snuff, and truly there was
+nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in
+Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain'd
+Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv'd me however
+with great Marks of Goodness, reproach'd me because I had not yet desired
+to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very
+ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince
+remember'd he had known my Father, and he call'd to mind, that when he was
+at _Berlin_, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask'd me what News
+from the Court of _Prussia_? and wanted to know all the Alterations that
+had been made there since his Time: He talk'd to me of the Court of
+_Rome_, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy
+Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master
+of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a
+gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand
+Duke said, 'twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for 'twas no more
+than Two o'Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which
+I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a
+Bottle which was by his Bed-side. 'Twas to no Purpose for me to protest,
+that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another,
+and after that a third. The Great Duke assum'd no State upon Account of
+his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me.
+I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good
+Luck would have it, _Joannino_, his favourite _Valet de Chambre_, came in,
+and whisper'd something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a
+serious Air, and soon after dismiss'd me, but charg'd me not to go from
+FLORENCE before I had receiv'd his Commands. _Make yourself as merry as
+you can_, said the Prince; _but be sure not to go away without taking year
+Leave of me_. Two Hours after I return'd to my Inn, his Royal Highness
+sent me a Present of Fowls, _Bologna_ Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and
+other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most
+excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three
+Months.
+
+I stay'd four Days, expecting the Great Duke's Orders; but as none came in
+all that Time, I desir'd his Favourite _Joannino_ to ask him if he had any
+Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir'd I would stay
+two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was
+arriv'd from _Leghorn_, which brought him News, that the _Spanish_ Fleet
+had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be
+very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform'd, that he
+left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the
+Commandeur _d'Elbene_, and the Marquis _Rinuccini_, who settled every
+thing as they thought fit with Father _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister.
+
+The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure
+Indulgence. 'Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace,
+and above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon,
+and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but
+this is an Honour which the _Florentines_ don't easily attain to; for he
+seems to be fondest of the _German_ Nation, whose Language he speaks well,
+and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims
+that pass this Way, either to or from _Rome_, but he sends for them to his
+Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his
+Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at
+Five o'Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always
+eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in
+Table-Talk with _Joannino_, and some young Fellows call'd _Ruspanti_,
+because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in _Ruspes_, which
+are a Coin of the same Value as _Sequins_; and some of them have two,
+three, and even five _Ruspes_ a Week. They are paid by _Joannino_ every
+_Wednesday_ and _Saturday_; but all their Business is to attend the Great
+Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; 'tis said their
+Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal
+Highness 80,000 Crowns _per Ann._ They consist of all Nations, but of
+_Germans_ more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad
+alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much
+curl'd and powder'd.
+
+When the two Days which the Great Duke had order'd me to stay were
+expir'd, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me
+to wait on him, and receiv'd me altogether as kindly as he did the first
+Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to
+talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss'd me,
+saying, _Farewel, go to +Leghorn+, and see my new Guests safe ashore_.
+
+I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some
+Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.
+
+The Commandeur _d'Elbene_ is Steward of the Great Duke's Houshold, and
+President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit.
+
+The Marquis _Rinuccini_ is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul
+of the Council, having been employ'd in Business a long time; for in 1711
+he was the Great Duke's Envoy at the _Hague_, and about that Time he
+attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at
+_Franckfort_. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_, and from thence he went to _England_: When he
+return'd from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of
+his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has
+still the Direction. 'Twas he that dispos'd the Great Duke and the
+Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don _Carlos_, the
+Infante of _Spain_, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that
+settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected
+here with very great Impatience.
+
+Tho' the Nobility of FLORENCE are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet
+'tis certain, that the Marquis _Richardi_ is one of those Gentlemen that
+give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in
+_Tuscany_, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three
+Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don _Vincenzo_,
+who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell'd
+very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and
+Merit.
+
+There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don't dress well, and
+have not near so much Liberty as those of _Rome_: There's one Madame
+_Suarez_ indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to
+all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the
+_English_; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming
+in it.
+
+Before I set out from FLORENCE, I can't think it will be improper to give
+you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the _Medicis_, which is
+near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke _John Gaston_.
+
+This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to _Tuscany_. _Cosmo_ the
+First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain'd that Title
+about _Ann._ 1568. from the Emperor _Maximilian_ II of whom he had
+demanded the Title of _King of Hetruria_; but the Emperor return'd him for
+Answer, That he knew of but one King in _Italy_, and that was himself.
+However, to gratify _Cosmo_'s Vanity, _Maximilian_ invented the Title of
+_Great Duke_, that of _Arch Duke_ being already the Appenage of the House
+of _Austria_. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances,
+are as follow.
+
+    _+Cosmo I.+ who married +Eleanor+ of +Toledo+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand I.+ who married +Joan+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Francis I.+ who married +Mary Magdalen+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Cosmo II.+ whose Wife was +Claude+ of +Lorain+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand II.+ married to +Mary de la Rovero+, Duchess of
+    +Urbino+._
+
+    _+Cosmo III.+ who married +Margaretta Louisa+ of +Orleans+._
+
+    _+John Gaston+, married to +Anna Maria Frances+ of
+    +Saxe-Lawenbourg+._
+
+The Family of _Medicis_ calls to my Mind that of the _Kettlers_, Dukes of
+_Courland_; and I fansy the following Parallel will hold between the two
+Families. The _Medicis_, before they were Sovereigns of _Tuscany_, were
+Standard-Bearers of FLORENCE; the _Kettlers_ were Gentlemen, and Grand
+Masters of the _Teutonic_ Order in _Courland_. The Emperor _Maximilian_
+II. made _Medicis_ Grand Duke: _Sigismond Augustus_, King of _Poland_,
+made _Kettler_ a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns
+to _Europe_, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last
+of the _Medicis_, and the last of the _Kettlers_, were married to
+Princesses of the _Saxon_ Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing
+of their Succession before they are dead[18]. Both Families began to
+flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of _Europe_; and
+in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same.
+
+I could stay but six Days at _Florence_ this Journey, because I had a mind
+to see the Landing of the _Spaniards_ at LEGHORN. I had no Time neither to
+lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv'd, and landed two
+or three Days after. The Fleet was compos'd of two Squadrons, one of
+which, _viz._ the _English_, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded
+by Admiral _Wager_. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time,
+but had been dispers'd by a Storm in the Gulph of _Lyons_. The _English_
+came in all together; but the _Spaniards_ arriv'd one after another, and
+some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on
+the second of _November_, _All Souls Day_, whereon there fell a terrible
+Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis
+_de Charni_[19], the Commander of the _Spanish_ Forces, came on Shore the
+Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis _Rinuccini_, whom
+the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to LEGHORN. The _Spanish_ General
+was oblig'd to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the
+Marquis _Rinuccini_, which when he had done, the _Spanish_ Forces enter'd
+the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and
+mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated,
+that there shall be always two Thirds _Spaniards_ to one Third of the
+Great Duke's Soldiers. The _Spanish_ Army consists of no more than 6000
+Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and
+Equipage for above 20,000. There's one _Swiss_ Regiment, another of
+_Walloons_.
+
+I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The _English_ has three Decks,
+and carries 86 Guns: The _Spanish_, which had Admiral _Mari_ on board,
+carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the
+_English_ Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante
+Don _Carlos_, and no Expence was spar'd to render it magnificent. The
+Admiral's Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables,
+Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, _&c._ were of _Indian_ Lacca
+Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the _English_
+Ship was the neatest, and far out-did the _Spaniard_ in the civil
+Treatment of those that went aboard. The _English_ Naval Officers are
+almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to
+such as came to visit them, and talk'd very modestly both of their Ships
+and their Tackling; whereas the _Spaniards_ bragg'd of theirs beyond
+measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were
+much easier to work than those of the _English_, which are all of three
+Decks; and affirm'd, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and
+their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the _English_, and
+not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was
+told by an _Engish_ Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable
+to one that had but two, because when 'tis a high Sea, and they are forc'd
+to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining,
+whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one
+remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, _said the Officer_, being
+higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the
+other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of
+Navigation, I know not whether my _Englishman_ was in the right. But be
+that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally,
+that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects,
+it will be always safer to _lay a Wager_ on the Side of the _English_ than
+on the _Spanish_ Ships.
+
+On St. _Charles_'s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don
+_Carlos_, the Marquis _Mari_ gave us a grand Feast: I say _us_, because I
+was there, as well as all _Leghorn_, _Florence_, _Sienna_, _Lucca_, and
+_Pisa_, which you'll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover,
+it was very gay. The _Florence_ Gentry, who expected that the Infante
+would have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they
+are naturally very prodigal, they spar'd no Cost upon this Occasion. The
+_Lucquese_ Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that
+taking the _Milanese_ and _Genoese_ along with them, they are of all the
+_Italians_ the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality.
+Besides the _Italians_, there was so great a Concourse of _Englishmen_ and
+Foreigners at LEGHORN, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless
+Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever.
+
+The _English_ are return'd home. 'Tis said, that the Infante[20] will come
+hither speedily by Land. The _Tuscans_ long mightily to see him, and
+expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his
+Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of _Nostradamus_, who says
+in one of his Stanzas,
+
+      _Du plus profund de l'Occident d'Europe,
+      De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra,
+      Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe:
+      Son bruit au Regne d'Orient plus croitra._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+      'In the most Western Part of _Europe_ an Infant
+      shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall
+      lead a great Force towards the _Po_, and whose
+      Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.'
+
+This Child, _born of a double Marriage_, must be the Infante, who is the
+Son of _Philip_ V. by his second Wife.
+
+I heartily wish that I cou'd have staid at _Florence_ till this Prince
+arriv'd; but I have order'd my Affairs so as to be at _Paris_ before
+_Christmas_, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave
+LEGHORN, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note
+for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. 'Tis one of the neatest
+Cities in _Italy_, and that to which there's the greatest Concourse of
+Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their
+Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and
+lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of _Holland_.
+The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided
+into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render'd
+convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for
+Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the
+Gallies. There's an admirable Marble Statue of _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_,
+which is rais'd on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is
+represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on
+his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue
+are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or
+Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass,
+representing _Turks_, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were,
+chain'd to the Pedestal: The _Connoisseurs_ reckon them Master-pieces:
+Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they
+represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of
+four _Turks_, _viz._ the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father,
+and the Son; who being all on board a _Turkish_ Vessel, the youngest of
+them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they
+embark'd, that on such a Day they shou'd all be taken into Slavery by the
+Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they
+were taken by the Great Duke's Gallies, and this Prince caus'd their
+Statues to be carv'd, to transmit the Event to Posterity.
+
+PISA, tho' a much more considerable City than _Leghorn_ for its Antiquity,
+and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. 'Tis a
+large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; 'tis divided
+into two Parts by the River _Arno_, which comes from _Florence_, and forms
+two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of _Gothic_
+Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are
+of Brass, and represent the Passages mention'd in the New Testament, a
+Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of
+_Solomon_'s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the
+Baptistery of _Florence_. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the
+Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble
+Columns.
+
+I say nothing to you of the Tower that leans to one Side, and which
+consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor
+of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call'd _il Campo
+Santo_. Look into _Misson_, he will tell you the Measures of every thing;
+for that Gentleman always carry'd Mathematical Instruments about him, so
+that there was nothing but what he measur'd and weigh'd.
+
+PISA is a City, which a Traveller can't avoid seeing, but 'tis impossible
+for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their
+Ancestors gain'd by the Conquest of _Carthage_, that their Vanity is
+perfectly surfeiting.
+
+Having stay'd but one Day at _Pisa_, I proceeded in my Journey to _Genoa_,
+passing thro' the Forest of VIAREGGIO, where, if I had had a great Charge
+of Money about me, and had credited what my Guide said, I shou'd have
+sweat for Fear; because he affirm'd to me, that there was not a Week
+throughout the Year but Passengers were robb'd and murder'd in this
+Forest. But when I came to the Village of _Viareggio_, which stands in the
+Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was
+false; and that since the Courier from _Lucca_ was robb'd, which was
+eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put
+me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don't care to
+tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an _Italian_ Lacquey that I have
+in my Service, cou'd not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this
+Forest to pass thro', he conjur'd me to take a Guard; but I banter'd him,
+and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his
+Beads. I had scarce travell'd half a League, but I saw five Men coming
+arm'd; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy'd them, cry'd out like a
+Madman, _Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia!
+Misericordia!_ I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men,
+who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their
+Garb, that they were Soldiers from _Lucca_, who patroll'd there for the
+Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at
+first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to
+PIETRA-SANTA, a little Place in the State of _Lucca_, he had not Strength
+to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz'd him, that he was
+almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every
+whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus'd him to
+bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my
+Chaise, and went and lay at MASSA DI CARRARA, the Capital of a very small
+Feodal Sovereignty of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal _Cibo_, the last
+of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece,
+who, 'tis said, is design'd for the young Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+Nephew[21] to the Great _Eugene_, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor's
+Forces.
+
+The Founder of this Family was _Alberic Cibo_, the natural Son of
+_Innocent_ VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor _Maximilian_ II. erected
+_Massa_ into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing
+remarkable in it but the Prince's Palace, which makes some Shew. The
+Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at _Massa_ are of good
+florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble,
+and for Oil in abundance.
+
+From _Massa_ to SERSANA, or SARZANA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, the
+Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and
+Vines. In this City the _Genoese_ have a Governor, or Podestat, but they
+keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better
+Soldiers to withstand the _Corsicans_, who are call'd the _Devils_ of
+_Italy_, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress'd. The
+Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for
+Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from
+Foreigners.
+
+From _Sersana_ I proceeded to LERICI, a little Town on the Sea-side. There
+I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv'd in less than twenty-four
+Hours at _Genoa_, tho' I stay'd some Hours at SESTRI, an Episcopal City of
+that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and very agreeably
+situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This
+Town is defended by a Fort, which seem'd to me to be well furnish'd with
+Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann'd than that of _Sersana_.
+
+GENOA, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the
+greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the
+Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns
+of _Italy_ it is with Justice call'd the _Superb_; for there is not a City
+in _Europe_, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and
+where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City
+has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer'd a greater
+Shock than in 1684. when 'twas bombarded by Order of _Lewis_ XIV. The
+Marquis _de Seignelai_, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg'd
+his Commission so well, that from the 18th of _May_ to the 28th, he caus'd
+13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The _Genoese_ were oblig'd to
+humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that
+they wou'd send four Senators into _France_, to make their Submission to
+him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho',
+according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a
+Foot out of the City, _Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari_ was then the Doge,
+who went to _Versailles_, and had his Audience there on the 15th of _May_
+1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more
+Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.
+
+The _French_ boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck
+Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in
+Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of
+the most glorious Epochas of the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. Far be it from me
+to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and
+to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether
+the _French_ wou'd easily pardon any other Nations for making the like
+Boast of their Exploits. The _Spaniards_, who have the Character of being
+vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the
+_French_. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is,
+the Excuses which _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, Son to _Charles
+Emanuel_, Duke of _Savoy_, made in Person to _Philip_ IV. King of _Spain_,
+in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because
+he had made a Treaty with _France_, sought to be reveng'd on him, and
+found an Opportunity. _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ being assassinated,
+_Mary de Medicis_, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with
+_Spain_, by assisting _Charles Emanuel_. _Philip_ IV. improv'd this
+Opportunity, and caus'd Troops to march from the _Milanese_ towards
+_Piedmont_: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to
+_Madrid_. The young Prince was very well receiv'd there at first, but he
+had the Mortification to be oblig'd to make the most submissive Speech
+that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: 'Sir, _said he,
+addressing himself to the King_, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being
+hinder'd from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to
+supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I
+am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief
+of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at
+your Majesty's Feet, resolv'd not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till
+you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke
+my Father, and our whole Family, into your Royal Protection. By this,
+_Sir_, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest
+Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is
+devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration,
+which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if
+necessary, be seal'd by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon
+your Majesty's Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve.
+If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it
+will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.'
+
+Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of
+the King of _Spain_, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of _Genoa_ to
+puff up _Lewis_ XIV? And is not a Prince of _Piedmont_ at _Madrid_, a
+Person of more Consequence than a Doge of _Genoa_ at _Versailles_?
+Nevertheless, the _Spaniards_ have neither struck any Medals, nor raised
+any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for
+this Digression: The Prince of _Piedmont_'s Speech is not to be met with
+in all the Historians: I believ'd it would be acceptable to you, and
+thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation
+made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the _Doge_. I now resume
+the Thread of my Narrative.
+
+The Street _Balbi_, and the _new_ Street, are more like Galleries than
+Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the _Annunciation_
+and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the _Jesuits_
+College, of which _James Balbi_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, made a Present on
+his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always
+remain over the great Gate. The Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have
+laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for
+this End have had great Law-Suits with the _Balbi_ Family; but at length
+they were condemn'd by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the
+Founder, and there they still remain.
+
+The two Palaces _Purazzi_, which are in the same Street, are very
+magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a
+Theatre, called the Theatre of the _Falcon_, which is so extremely well
+laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and
+without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient,
+and the Ornaments dispos'd every-where with Judgment.
+
+The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street _Balbi_. Here
+are the two Palaces _Brignole_, and indeed they are both stately
+Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the
+newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent
+Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an
+extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon
+Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one
+wou'd not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs
+_Brignole_ are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son:
+They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in _Genoa_.
+
+The Palace of the Duke _Doria_, which is in the same Street, is grand and
+stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince _Doria_,
+without the Gate of St. _Thomas_, which owes its Foundation to the
+celebrated _Doria_, who was a General of the Emperor _Charles_ V. This
+Palace is very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the
+Apartments are low and old-fashioned.
+
+The Suburb of St. _Peter d'Arena_ is very large, and contains several
+noble Palaces, of which the Palace _Imperiali_, where the Emperor and
+Empress lodged at their Return from _Spain_, is esteemed by the
+Connoisseurs in Architecture.
+
+The People at _Genoa_ are more sociable than they are at _Venice_, and the
+Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don't believe, that they who
+accuse the _Italians_ of Jealousy, include the _Genoese_ in that Charge;
+there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow'd more
+Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have
+very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess'd Lovers.
+These Sparks, who go by the Name of _Cicisbei_, are never out of their
+Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so
+fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from
+the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have
+five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go;
+and 'tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the
+Ears. 'Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it;
+for the Gentry here don't wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the
+Lawyers in _France_; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I
+could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in _France_ would likewise wear,
+in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers.
+
+The People of Quality here dress very well, and the _Genoese_ of both
+Sexes have a much better Air than those of _Florence_ and _Rome_. The
+Princess of _Modena_'s Residence with them has not been to their
+Detriment; for they have contracted a courtly Behaviour, to which the
+_Italians_ are pretty much Strangers. The _Genoese_ in general understand
+good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing
+better. Tho' they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here
+very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the
+Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for
+a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced
+to them by the Count _Guiccardi_, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor,
+and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke
+of _Modena_, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince's
+Minister at _Vienna_, when he went into the Service of his Imperial
+Majesty. He married the Countess _Sinzendorff_, who was the Daughter of
+_Hawitz_, the Grand Marshal at _Dresden_. This Lady was a _Lutheran_; but
+being at _Vienna_, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the
+Metropolitan Church of St. _Stephen_, while she was looking upon a Picture
+of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she
+was, and scorch'd her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou'd not shew
+for all the Gold of _Peru_; but she received no other Harm, and thinking
+that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression
+upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary
+Professor.
+
+You know that the _Genoese_ are actually at War with their Subjects the
+_Corsicans_, who have newly publish'd a Manifesto of their Reasons for
+taking Arms. If all they say be true, 'tis certain they have been very ill
+used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus'd, theirs may. This War has
+already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are
+taking, 'tis to be presumed it will run them into a much greater Expence.
+The _Corsicans_ have chose one _Giafferi_ for their Leader. He is a Man of
+Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure
+his Country its Liberties; and if the _Genoese_ are not assisted by some
+Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to
+Light. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Turin, Nov. 28, 1731._
+
+The Road hither from GENOA is very bad at this time of the Year. During
+the first two Post-Stages I cross'd one River no less than thirty-two
+times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho' the
+Neighbourhood of GENOA is very mountainous, 'tis very pleasant, all the
+Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had
+travell'd about four Post-Stages, I enter'd on the Plain which brought me
+to _Turin_. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World,
+and wants nothing but Causeys.
+
+The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was ALEXANDRIA DE
+LA PAILLE, which stands on the River _Tanaro_. 'Tis a great Town, but not
+very populous. It formerly depended on the _Milanese_, and was yielded by
+the Emperor to the King of _Sardinia_, who keeps a good Garison in it, and
+has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been
+very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are
+the most considerable in _Italy_.
+
+I afterwards came to ASTI, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which
+indeed is one of the best of _Italy_, From thence I went and lay at
+QUIERI, a great Town in _Piedmont_, ill built, but full of People of
+Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was
+in so much Haste to get to TURIN, that I did not stay there. I pass'd by
+the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of MONTCALLIER, a Royal
+Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King _Victor
+Amedeus_. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the
+finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more
+worth a Traveller's View, than the Village of _Montcallier_ itself.
+
+At some Distance from this Place I cross'd the _Po_ over a wooden Bridge,
+and came thro' a pleasant Avenue to TURIN, the Capital of _Piedmont_, and
+the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of _Savoy_. Those Princes chose also
+to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which
+is what they call in _France_ the Parlement; and they have rendered it one
+of the strongest and finest Cities of _Italy_, exclusive of its charming
+Situation. 'Tis divided into two Parts, the _old_ and the _new_ City, with
+Bastions and Outworks, well fac'd, and a Citadel very regularly fortify'd.
+It stands eighteen Miles from the _Alps_, in a Plain which has the _Po_ on
+one Side, and the _Duero_ on the other.
+
+This City will always be remember'd for the Siege which it sustained in
+1704, when the Marshal and Count _Daun_, Governor of _Milan_, commanded
+here, by the Emperor's Permission, at the Request of the Duke of _Savoy_.
+He defended the Place against the Duke of _Orleans_, the Grandson of
+_France_, and gave Time to Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ to come to its
+Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The _French_ pretend,
+that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_, the Daughter of King _Victor Amedeus_, was the Person that
+prevail'd on _Lewis_ XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As
+I am not privy to what pass'd at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of
+_France_, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as
+the Belief of what the _French_ give out upon this Head is not an Article
+of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to
+Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had:
+For how can it be imagin'd, that if _Lewis_ XIV, had really a Desire, that
+his Army should decamp from before TURIN, he would have chose to have
+subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his
+Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos'd the Honour of his
+Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men,
+which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet
+would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the
+Appearance of a Flight. But the _French_ have this Notion: They were never
+routed, but 'twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be
+routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the
+Battle of _Hochstet_, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the
+Elector of _Bavaria_, and the Marshal _de Tallard_; that of _Ramillies_,
+because the Marshal _de Villeroy_ would not let the Elector of _Bavaria_
+have the Honour of beating us; that of _Audenarde_, because the Duke of
+_Vendosme_'s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of
+_Burgundy_, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. _de la Motte_, too,
+suffered himself to be beaten near _Wynendale_, only in Complaisance to
+the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to
+persuade the King his Grandfather to the Peace, which he had very much at
+Heart, if _Lisle_ was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have
+been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. _de la Motte_ had
+attack'd. The Passage of the _Scheld_, the raising of the Siege of
+_Brussels_, the Surrender of _Ghent_, without strikeing a Blow; all this
+was done also by Order of the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was for a Peace upon
+any Terms, and cou'd not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and
+Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the
+Marshals of _France_ to tell me the same Story, they would find me as
+great an Unbeliever as St. _Thomas_, and wou'd never prevail with me to be
+guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of _Burgundy_, the
+wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his
+Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.
+
+Nothing can be more regular than that Part of TURIN, which is called the
+_new City_. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets
+are wide, strait, and well-pav'd. It has fine Churches, particularly the
+Metropolis, or Chapel of the _Holy Handkerchief_, which is also the Royal
+Chapel, and may be reckon'd the Master-piece of Architecture. 'Tis in the
+Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac'd, not excepting the Roof, with black
+Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the
+precious Relique of our Lord's Handkerchief, of which there's the like in
+St. _Peter_'s Church at _Rome_, and at _Besan�on_. I had been told, that I
+should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this
+Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour's Body; but I was not so happy as
+to discern any thing like it.
+
+The King's Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite
+finish'd; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv'd; The Furniture
+is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There
+are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos'd in the Manner of
+Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they
+are not much adorn'd.
+
+The finest, and the completest Thing at TURIN, and perhaps in _Europe_, in
+the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame
+Royale, the King's Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King's
+Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. 'Twas a very old Building,
+and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar'd no Cost, either in
+Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it
+happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal
+Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and
+to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This
+Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in _Italy_, and fix'd
+upon the Plans, which to her appear'd the most grand and beautiful. Before
+this Stair-case was built, they us'd to say that Madame Royale's Palace
+was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say 'tis a Stair-case
+without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou'd become the _Louvre_, it
+being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.
+
+I cou'd not get a Sight of the Castle of the _Venerie_, three Leagues from
+TURIN; for while King _Victor_ is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer'd to
+go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince's being under an
+Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform'd of what gave
+Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into
+Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.
+
+King _Victor Amedeus_, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was
+Daughter of _Philip_ of _France_, the late Duke of _Orleans_, by
+_Henrietta_ of _England_, fell in Love with the Marchioness of[24] _St.
+Sebastian_, Lady of Honour to the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_. The Virtue of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, and the King's
+Devotion for her, induc'd him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it
+honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a
+Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal
+a[25]Match. He imparted his Design to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, who did
+all she cou'd to prevail with _Victor_ to continue upon the Throne; but
+finding he was resolv'd not to make her a Queen, she consented to his
+Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour'd to become the Wife of a
+Prince, who had worn a Crown. King _Victor_ consulted with his chief
+Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis'd him not to leave the
+Throne. His Son King _Charles_ conjur'd him to keep Possession of it. _I
+protest to your Majesty_, said this Prince, _I never once indulged a Wish
+to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject_. But
+all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of _September_, 1730,
+was fix'd for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons
+in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the[26]Palace.
+There the King appear'd without any Mark of Royalty, accompany'd by the
+Prince of _Piedmont_, and declar'd to the Assembly, that he was resolv'd
+to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted
+them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had
+taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son
+_Charles_, Prince of _Piedmont_, for their King; and desir'd them to be as
+Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of
+Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis _del Borgo_,
+Secretary of State, and _Charles_ was recogniz'd for King.
+
+After the Ceremony was over, King _Victor_, with the Marchioness of _St.
+Sebastian_, whom he had married, on Condition[27] that she shou'd wear no
+other Title, set out for _Chamberry_, which he had chose for the Place of
+his Retirement. But scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of
+having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved
+as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King
+_Victor_ resign'd, he advis'd his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility
+and Gentry to be survey'd, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to
+the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho' it had a View to the Increase of
+the King's Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason,
+_Charles_ when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in
+Execution. _Victor_ being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son,
+rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and
+perceiving that _Charles_ was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained
+a Thought of reascending the Throne[28]. To this End, he secretly felt the
+Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to _Charles_:
+Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he
+knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou'd also be his Friends;
+for most of the Officers having been preferr'd by him, he did not doubt
+but they were still attach'd to him, and he flatter'd himself with their
+Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal _Rhebinder_, in
+general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting.
+This General, who was Commander in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of
+what Consequence it was to deprive King _Victor_ of the least Hopes of
+reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged
+to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: 'Your Majesty, _said the
+Marshal in his Letter_, has made me all that I am. I am under no
+Obligation to King _Charles_; but my Engagements to your Majesty are
+inexpressible; tho' of all the Favours which you have heap'd upon me, the
+Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave
+therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have
+acquir'd by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I
+shou'd forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the
+King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I
+shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last
+Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready
+to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person,
+being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me,
+but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your
+Actions, _&c._'
+
+This Answer was not sufficient to cool King _Victor_'s Ambition to resume
+the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal _de Rhebinder_, and
+to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify'd,
+that he knew how to punish those that refus'd to obey him. All these
+Letters were carried to King _Charles_, who being concerned to see his
+Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou'd you have me
+do? _He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to
+Providence._
+
+The King was still in Hopes, that he shou'd be able to make _Victor_ easy,
+and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he
+went with his Queen to _Evian_, and from thence to _Chamberry_, where
+_Charles_ paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper.
+The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he
+took leave of _Victor_, he paid a Visit to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, with
+whom he had a long Conference. He desir'd this Lady to pacify King
+_Victor_, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with
+State Affairs. _He hath made me King_, said _Charles, and King I will be.
+You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not
+like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that
+he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal_. They say
+_Charles_ dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin'd to yield
+his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis'd great
+Advantages to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, not only for herself, but for the
+Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady
+promis'd the King all that he desir'd, but kept her Word very ill; for her
+Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King _Victor_ every Day more and
+more uneasy.
+
+_Victor_ after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would
+reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be
+nearer TURIN. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of
+_Chamberry_ was bad for his Health, and desir'd him to let him go and
+reside at the Castle of _Montcallier_. _Charles_ was return'd to TURIN
+when he receiv'd this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he
+understood that the King his Father, and Madame _de St. Sebastian_, were
+already come to _Montcallier_. He was not at all sorry for it, because,
+as he knew King _Victor_'s Designs, he cou'd better observe his Motions,
+when so near him: And King _Victor_, on his Part, was glad that he was at
+_Montcallier_, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of TURIN might give him a
+better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding
+Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and
+gave such publick[29] Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that
+_Charles_'s Ministers[30], fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to
+his Assistance, unanimously advis'd the King to confine him. The young
+Prince exclaim'd several times against this Proposition. _What!_ said he,
+_make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that_: And indeed,
+it was a long time ere he cou'd agree to it; but at length he was
+prevail'd on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho', when he
+sign'd the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that
+the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it.
+
+The Count _de la Perouse_, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged
+with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King _Victor_, and had a
+Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of
+TURIN, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking.
+They all march'd out at the same Hour from their Quarters, without
+knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o'Clock next Morning they all
+came to the Place appointed at _Montcallier_. The Count _de la Perouse_,
+attended by the Chevalier _de Solare_, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards,
+at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw'd to
+their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led
+to King _Victor_'s Apartment, while the Marquis _d'Ormea_, Secretary of
+State, who carry'd the Order sign'd by King _Charles_, secur'd the
+Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. _de la Perouse_,
+finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page
+in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way
+farther, and forc'd open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where
+the King was a-bed with Madame _de St. Sebastian_. This Lady, hearing a
+Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown,
+ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm'd Men, she cry'd out, _Oh! Sir,
+we are betray'd!_ They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers
+carry'd her into the next Chamber, where they caus'd her to be dress'd,
+and afterwards conducted her to _Ceve_, a Fortress of _Piedmont_.
+
+Neither the Outcry of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, nor all the Noise that
+was made, had awak'd King _Victor_, who always slept sound. The Chevalier
+_de Solare_ seiz'd the King's Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and
+the Count _de la Perouse_ went to the Bed-side, and open'd the Curtains.
+Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask'd what was the
+Matter. The Count _de la Perouse_ said to him, That he had Orders from the
+King to arrest him. _What King do you mean?_ said _Victor_: _'Tis I that
+am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty
+has been so_, reply'd the Count, _but you are so no longer; and since it
+has pleas'd you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to
+command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such
+Obedience_. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten'd the Officers,
+and refus'd to rise. The Chevalier _de Solare_ coming too near the Bed,
+the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in
+Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise,
+the Officers lifted him. up, and dress'd him. The King was heard to say,
+in the mean time, that he only wish'd to sit two Hours on the Throne, that
+he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam'd the
+principal Lords of the Court.
+
+As soon as he was dress'd, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him
+down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard.
+The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem'd surpriz'd at
+it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent,
+seem'd no less surpriz'd, when they saw their old King was to be carry'd
+off a Prisoner. _What! Our King!_ said they softly to each other, _What
+has he done? What is the Matter?_ The Count _de la Perouse_, fearing a
+Mutiny, call'd out _Silence_, in the King's Name, _on Pain of Death_. The
+old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he
+had always valu'd above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected
+him, and he wou'd have spoke to it; but no Time was allow'd him, and he
+was oblig'd to go into the Coach. The Count _de la Perouse_, and the
+Chevalier _de Solare_, ask'd his Leave to sit with him; but the King
+answer'd, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode
+by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and
+conducted him to _Rivoli_. I had almost forgot to tell you, that when he
+went from _Montcallier_, he ask'd for three Things; his Wife, his Papers,
+and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain'd.
+
+The Day after he came to _Rivoli_, as they were clapping iron Bars, and
+double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask'd the
+Glazier what he was going to do! _I am going_, said the Man, _to put on
+double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn't catch Cold this Winter_.
+_How now, Varlet!_ said the King, _Do you think I shall spend all the
+Winter here?_ _Ah! by my Faith_, reply'd the Glazier, _you will pass this
+winter here, and I believe many more_.
+
+This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to
+his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier _de
+Solare_, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he
+sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all
+manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints[31].
+
+In the whole Course of this Affair, 'tis fortunate for King _Charles_,
+that not one of his Subjects has fail'd in his Allegiance to him; he has
+not been oblig'd to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has
+he caus'd above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King
+_Victor_'s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately
+set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored
+between the father and the Son.
+
+They say, that Madame _de St. Sebastian_ is fallen into a deep Melancholy;
+and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After
+her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen
+at Court. The young King missing him, ordered the Marquis _d'Ormea_,
+Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to
+Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he
+did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever,
+which Madame _de St. Sebastian_ had committed, and that he would take Care
+of his Fortune.
+
+The _Piedmontese_ are charm'd with their new King, and indeed, he is a
+Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane,
+compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in
+Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and
+particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a
+great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, 'tis only owing to the
+Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible.
+
+The Queen[32] is of the Family of _Hesse Rhinfels_. She is tall and
+slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very
+fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and
+ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is
+the Mother of two lovely[33] Princes, and a Princess, and seems very
+attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth.
+
+The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is
+observed at the Court of _France_, The King and Queen always eat together,
+and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The
+Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the
+Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to
+attend her, who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a
+Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the
+young Princess of _Carignan_, and the Queen's youngest Sister, sitting on
+Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen's Chair; and all
+the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds
+for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and
+Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where
+there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the
+Marchioness _de Prie_, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the
+_Netherlands_, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes
+present.
+
+There's an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be
+enjoy'd in all _Italy_ besides; and the _Piedmontese_ don't think
+themselves _Italians_; so that I am often ask'd, Whether I came last from
+_Italy_? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City
+better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the _French_ Manners
+with the _Italians_ is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live
+well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very
+civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal _de la Rhebinder_ is
+particularly noted. This General is a Native of _Livonia_: He commanded
+the Elector Palatine's Troops in _Italy_, and then went into the Service
+of the Duke of _Savoy_, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a
+foreign Regiment of Foot. King _Victor_ created him a Velt-Marshal, and he
+is actually Commander in Chief of the King of _Sardinia_'s Troops.
+
+The Marquis _d'Ormea_ is the Chief or President of the Council, first
+Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the
+Confidence of King _Victor_. That Prince had sent him to _Rome_, where
+the Marquis _d'Ormea_ obtained great Advantages of Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices.
+This Minister was recall'd in the first Year of the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that
+his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King _Victor_'s Abdication he
+returned to TURIN. King _Charles_ does nothing without him. He is a
+Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his
+Promises. I knew him at _Rome_, and have the Honour of seeing him here as
+often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my
+Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not
+always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This
+Minister has a Brother a[34]Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very
+lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the
+Steps of his Father.
+
+The Youth here don't seem to be so hair-brain'd as they are elsewhere: I
+don't know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so
+in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his
+Children to the University here, than which I question whether there's a
+better in _Europe_, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises,
+as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed
+in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which
+the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the
+other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow'd to go abroad
+on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go
+where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.
+
+The Out-parts of TURIN are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned
+with a great many pretty _Cassines_ or Pleasure-Houses, which are only
+separated by Meadows, that are constantly water'd by a Number of little
+Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the _Esplanade_, between the City
+and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very
+pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the _Piedmontese_
+Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave
+them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone.
+I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at _Lyons_, if I don't stay at
+_Chamberry_; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don't fail to write
+to me at _Paris_, and believe me to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Lyons, March 2, 1732._
+
+Tho' I had pass'd Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers'd _Savoy_, yet I
+thought the Passage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily
+glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put
+together.
+
+From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pass'd by the Castle
+of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there's an Avenue
+from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell'd
+thro' SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a
+River form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as
+it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which 'tis
+built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which
+King _Victor Amedeus_ caus'd to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_.
+Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. 'Tis provided with a
+good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been
+built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his
+Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have passed the
+Mountains.
+
+LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more
+disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their
+Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other
+Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by
+four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me
+upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to
+Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
+
+At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I
+thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain'd, and
+other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to
+receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable
+Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this
+Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends
+may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their
+greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
+fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the
+Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time
+People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country
+People call _se faire ramasser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious
+and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly
+faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay'd a Week together at
+_Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again
+and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire ramasser_.
+
+LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is
+oblig'd to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don't travel Post,
+and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to
+this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides
+the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which
+is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is
+bury'd, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices:
+There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a
+Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which
+the Horses were kill'd, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which
+consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of
+_Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho' he was not at
+all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou'd
+actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder'd
+him.
+
+I pass'd thro' several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth
+mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because 'tis the See of a
+Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; 'tis a very antient
+County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley
+extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the
+_Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_.
+
+CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must
+expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet
+the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; 'tis situate
+on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompass'd
+with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There's a
+great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money'd Men; yet
+they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The
+Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People
+good-natur'd and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good
+Sort of People. They are accus'd of being too thrifty, but perhaps 'tis
+more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig'd to
+support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune,
+he is forc'd to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
+
+At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high
+Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I
+saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not
+Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but,
+judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the
+Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the
+Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and
+magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether
+he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use
+of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high
+Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both
+Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of
+the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass'd, it
+was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the
+Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
+
+This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the
+Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass'd
+to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of
+_France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here,
+the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a
+Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which
+belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of
+the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_
+by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore
+the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_,
+finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of
+_France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St.
+_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of
+good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated
+Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author
+of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him
+resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a
+secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope
+with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the
+Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to
+reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad
+Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to
+injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour
+to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son
+of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has
+been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the
+Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a
+Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at
+_Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this
+City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd.
+
+LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to
++Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _S�on_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_
+washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are
+industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in
+_France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They
+endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but
+they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop,
+who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M.
+_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the
+XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in
+Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its
+Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the
+_Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of
+the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second
+Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of
+_Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the
+Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de
+Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter
+Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those
+hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_
+have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very
+great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so
+that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as
+much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for
+the Province, and for the City in particular.
+
+They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first
+_Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of
+_Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not
+without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs,
+and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops,
+who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is
+inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by
+several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of
+seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons
+of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and
+twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_,
+for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their
+Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom
+King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is
+known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this
+Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been
+Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prev�t des Marchands_ of the City of
+_Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of
+State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family
+who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur
+_de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_,
+had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of
+_Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as
+Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of
+_Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because
+he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King
+found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the
+Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone
+which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_.
+The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
+would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was
+applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next
+Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's
+(+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this,
+the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal
+Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the
+Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by
+the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded
+by M. _de Rochebonne_.
+
+The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor
+of the City, is the _Prev�t des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for
+any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as
+strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd
+to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an
+Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at
+last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The
+Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I
+imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
+
+The _Prev�t des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when
+he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think,
+that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so
+vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the
+same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in
+which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.
+
+I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I
+have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prev�t des Marchands_. I have been to
+make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I
+have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People
+of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few Nobility. The
+Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine
+Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so
+little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the
+_Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as
+to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me
+very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and
+the Bottle.
+
+The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the
+best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if
+they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one
+of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a
+Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago
+was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste
+wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this
+superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the
+Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An
+Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better
+employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron,
+remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year,
+that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer,
+that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd
+be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not
+thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of
+this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that
+Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her
+Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes
+the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.
+
+I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le
+Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a
+great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of
+Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without
+acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide
+as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated;
+and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same
+Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the
+Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on
+Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription
+than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great
+deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_,
+who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it
+the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the
+Original.
+
+There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of
+Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and
+magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in
+Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the
+Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great
+Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                            LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Paris, March 20, 1732._
+
+For the sake of good Wine I preferr'd the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before
+the great Road from _Lyons_ thro' _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv'd
+for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos'd on, and
+did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in
+all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my
+Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the
+Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to
+_Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I
+happen'd to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very
+amiable Gentlemen. We pass'd by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Principality
+of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by
+Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of
+_Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render'd herself
+famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the
+Cannon to be fir'd from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who
+never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her
+wou'd never give her leave to marry[38]. 'Twas to reconcile the King to
+her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a
+Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed
+there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.
+
+After having pass'd _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and
+Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that 'tis
+possible to imagine. We din'd very much in Haste at a Village, and went
+and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral
+have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at
+_Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and
+whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to
+see.
+
+CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear
+to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the
+Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew'd the
+Apartment where the Duchess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the
+Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit
+which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers:
+'Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of
+making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall'd by any Princess
+of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she
+fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig'd to live in a miserable Castle,
+with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend
+her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this
+Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.
+
+From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pass'd thro' _Beaune_, and
+along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my
+Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to
+be: 'Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no
+great Appearance, tho' they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In
+the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal
+Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the
+Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows,
+which, if the Houses were higher, wou'd make a fine Sight. This Street
+leads to the Place Royale, in which there's an Equestrian Statue of the
+late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac'd on so high a Pedestal, that it even
+raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which
+moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses
+are actually very low, and if they were to be carry'd higher, the Statue
+would look as if it were imprison'd in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was
+cast in _Paris_, and first carry'd by Water to _Auxerre_, where it
+remain'd a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a
+manner immoveable; but at last it was remov'd by Land Carriage to _Dijon_,
+but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it
+appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.
+
+This Statue faces the _King's House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_,
+Governor of the Province. 'Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc'd
+Wings, but can only be reckon'd a very irregular Structure. I did not go
+to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish'd,
+and not worth the Trouble of a View.
+
+The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the
+vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there
+heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously
+accommodated.
+
+_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late
+Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was
+very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.
+
+The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really
+neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above
+civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their
+Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know
+what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him,
+puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists
+generally of Persons of Quality.
+
+The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_
+Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never
+comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count _de
+Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in
+his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.
+Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and
+I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a
+more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to
+which I was forc'd to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I
+went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall
+was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would
+have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it
+resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.
+
+From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of
+an Archbishop; and that's all I can say of it, because I only staid there
+to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where
+the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially
+of Women, who all seem'd very much enrag'd. This was owing to a
+Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify'd her
+Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which
+induc'd her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was
+about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the
+scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a
+Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker's Wife, who was
+old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband's
+Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the
+very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for
+her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen'd just as
+I arriv'd at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed
+against the Baker's Wife, and hurry'd the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women
+curs'd her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something
+perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their
+Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.
+
+FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pass'd thro', is fourteen Leagues
+from _Paris_. There's a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the
+Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for
+the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings
+from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to
+it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There's a great
+Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent
+for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the
+cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus'd
+her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be
+assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters,
+which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach'd him for his
+Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy
+Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in
+vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an
+Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose:
+Indeed, rather than be oblig'd to manifest his Resentment, he chose to
+keep a profound Silence; but tho' he dissembled it as much as possible,
+_Christina_ perceiv'd, that she had staid too long at his Court, and
+resolv'd to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died.
+
+But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant,
+grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_
+XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry'd the Queen by Proxy, at
+_Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a
+League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of
+the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.
+When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other,
+they advanc'd a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp'd; when their
+Majesties alighted, and walk'd to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen
+came near to the King, she kneel'd down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet,
+seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_
+rais'd her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her:
+The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv'd them with
+such a good-natur'd, modest Air, as prepossess'd the whole Court in her
+Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself
+on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac'd themselves
+according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late
+Duchess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ'd in
+the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to
+the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the
+Duchess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_,
+was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became
+general. When they arriv'd at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by
+the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen's Closet: There the King
+talk'd; and after having stay'd about an Hour, he return'd to
+_Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out
+from thence.
+
+The next Morning, at Eight o'Clock, the Queen arriv'd at _Fontainebleau_,
+without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey.
+Being in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to
+the Toilet; when she was dress'd, Word was brought to her, that the King
+was arriv'd; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle
+of Gold Brocade, trimm'd with _Spanish_ Point of Gold, the whole enrich'd
+with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk'd the same
+Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow'd immediately after him,
+supported by the Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_: She was dress'd in a
+Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and
+the Tail of her Gown, were fac'd with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds;
+and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the
+Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and 'tis
+certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very
+grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn'd with a rich Suit of Hangings, of
+blue Velvet, imbroider'd with Gold. The Elector of _Cologne_, the
+Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, now Elector, the Duke _Ferdinand_, and the
+Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_, were present _incognito_ at the
+Ceremony. The Cardinal _de Rohan_ gave their Majesties the Nuptial
+Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Mass, the
+Duke of _Bourbon_, who perceiv'd it, gave her some Balm-water, by which
+her Majesty found immediate Relief.
+
+After Mass was ended, they return'd in great Ceremony to the Queen's
+Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and
+Princesses din'd with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the
+Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be
+smother'd, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.
+
+When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang'd their Apparel, and took
+an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal,
+preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King's
+Houshold, and follow'd by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses.
+But 'tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent
+than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their
+Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new
+Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted.
+
+When the King and Queen were return'd to the Palace, there was a
+Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp'd with the Princesses of
+the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their
+Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the
+Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir'd,
+but really appear'd trifling to us _Germans_, who are accustom'd to see
+Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that
+surpasses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the
+Rejoicings upon account of the King's Marriage. They say there were great
+Illuminations and Bonfires also at _Paris_; but as I was at
+_Fontainebleau_, I did not see them. 'Tis certain tho', that how much
+soever the _French_ were pleas'd with the Marriage of their King, they
+were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread
+cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. 'Tis no
+laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression,
+and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description
+of _Fontainebleau_.
+
+This Royal Palace is accompanied with a fine Park, which, tho' not near so
+much adorned as the Park of _Versailles_, has remarkable Beauties, not to
+be met with in that. The great Canal is superb, and, generally speaking,
+the Palace of _Fontainebleau_, with all that environs it, has much more of
+the Air of a Royal Palace, than _Versailles_ and _Marly_. The Village or
+Town of _Fontainebleau_, for I know not which to call it, is very well
+built. Most of the Lords have great Houses here, where they put their
+Equipages and Domesticks; it being the Custom at the Court of _France_,
+for every Lord that belongs to the Court to be lodg'd in the King's
+Palace; and the _French_ are so infatuated with this Practice, that a
+Nobleman had rather be lodg'd in a Manger at Court, than in an Apartment
+ever so commodious and magnificent, in his House at _Versailles_ and
+_Fontainebleau_.
+
+The Road from _Fontainebleau_ to _Paris_ is pav'd all the Way. There are a
+great many fine Houses on it, particularly PETITBOURG, belonging to the
+Duke _d'Antin_, to whom it came by Succession, from his Mother, the
+Marchioness _Montespan_. Very great Buildings have been erected there
+within these few Years, which have the Appearance of Magnificence and
+Grandeur; not to mention the rich Furniture, the Pleasures of the Park,
+and several other Things, so ingeniously chose, and so beautifully
+dispos'd, as are infinitely delightful.
+
+CHOISY, which belongs to the first Princess Dowager of _Conti_, Daughter
+of _Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_, is, to my thinking, one
+of the finest Houses in the Kingdom. 'Tis built intirely in the modern
+Taste, and stands by the River Side. The Apartments are richly adorn'd.
+The Garden which belongs to it is spacious, and several Alleys are cut
+out in it, which yield very fine Walks, and render _Choisy_ an inchanting
+Place. Were I to mention all the other fine Houses to you that are upon
+the Road, I should never have done. If you consult the _Delices de la
+France_, you will find a large Account of all those Houses, as well as of
+their Names and Situation. For my part, my Head akes so much at this
+Instant, that 'tis impossible for me to add any more: But in a few Days,
+you shall hear farther from me; and then I will give you some Account of
+_Paris_: In the meantime, believe me to be always Yours intirely, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Paris, April 1, 1732._
+
+Don't imagine, that I am going to give you an exact Description of the
+City of PARIS; for that would be an Undertaking to as little Purpose, as
+it is beyond my Ability. PARIS has been so fully describ'd, and is so much
+talk'd of, that most People know what Sort of Place it is, though they
+have never seen it. Several Authors are so divided about the Antiquity of
+PARIS, that I can say nothing positive to you upon this Head. _C�sar_, in
+his Commentaries, speaks very much in its Favour, and says, that in his
+Time, this City was call'd _Lutetia_. The Learned differ also about the
+Origin of this[41]Name; but I shall leave them to dispute this Matter as
+long as they please, and assure them, that I am not concerned in their
+Quarrel.
+
+According to Father _Daniel_, PARIS was the Capital City of _France_, in
+the Reign of _Clovis_, about the Year 507. But even then, PARIS was a
+Place of very little Consequence; and, if it be duly consider'd, could not
+be rank'd among the great Towns, before the Reign of _Philip Augustus_;
+That Prince made it his Endeavour to embellish it, and added Buildings to
+it, which at that Time were reckon'd very magnificent. Since his Reign,
+PARIS has always been the Seat of the Kings, and has been continually
+increasing in Grandeur and Beauty. But none of its Kings has contributed
+so much to the Magnificence of PARIS, as the Prince who least resided in
+it, I mean _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd such Structures to be rais'd in it, as
+are worthy of the greatest Monarch in the World. Of some of these Works, I
+may hereafter give you a more particular Account.
+
+The _French_ pretend, that no City in _Europe_ contains so many
+Inhabitants as PARIS; but the _English_ say, the most populous is
+_London_; yet, without the least Hesitation, I determine it for the latter
+of the two Rivals. My Reason for it is this: At PARIS, eighteen or twenty
+thousand People die every Year, and at _London_ twenty-three or
+twenty-four thousand; tho' I don't dispute, but PARIS seems more populous:
+For in the latter, every body is to be seen in the Streets, either on Foot
+or in Coaches; whereas at _London_, Passengers are continually going up
+and down the _Thames_; which River is seldom without carrying forty or
+fifty thousand People, who, if diffus'd in the Streets, would make them
+look fuller of People than those of PARIS. Besides, what makes the Capital
+of _France_ appear to be more populous, is, that it has more Coaches and
+Carts; whereas at _London_, one always sees Goods going up or down the
+River; which is the Reason, that Carts are not so much in Use there: And
+most of the Ladies, instead of Coaches, ride in Sedans. But a _Frenchman_
+will tell me, you shall see five or six Families in one House at PARIS;
+whereas at _London_, they are seldom two. To this I shall answer, that
+'tis true, there are more Lodgers in the Houses of PARIS; but this stands
+for nothing, and only proves, that there are more Houses at _London_. At
+PARIS, there are many H�tels, or great Houses, Convents, large Gardens,
+public Squares, Quays, and a River that runs through the Middle; all which
+takes up a great deal of Ground; and in several of the Suburbs, without
+which PARIS itself is but a little Place, there are intire Marshes. But at
+_London_,'tis quite otherwise, such H�tels are uncommon there, and few
+Houses there have Courts to them. They are all very much pent up, and many
+a House at _London_ is not so big as the Halls in a great many of the
+H�tels at PARIS.
+
+But what matters it, whether _London_ is bigger or less than PARIS? I
+shall now speak of the latter, not as the biggest, but as the most
+beautiful City in _Europe_. 'Tis reckon'd, there are in PARIS nine
+hundred Streets, with above twenty thousand Houses, of which four thousand
+have great Gates, and Courts to turn Coaches in. The Number of Inhabitants
+amounts to above eighty thousand; in which must be reckon'd one hundred
+and fifty thousand Domestics. There are at least twenty thousand Coaches,
+and near one hundred and twenty thousand Horses for Carriages of all
+Sorts, of which, one Year with another, ten thousand die. In fine, the
+very Expence of the Lanthorns, which are lighted nine Months in the Year,
+is computed at two hundred thousand Crowns at least. The common Revenues
+which the City of PARIS produces, are said to amount at least to
+twenty-eight Millions of Livres; a Sum, which, I believe, is not rais'd by
+some Kingdoms.
+
+PARIS enjoys all the Prerogatives that can be enjoy'd by the Capital of a
+powerful Kingdom. This City has not only the Reputation of being the
+Residence of Kings, but is the Seat of an Archbishop, a Parliament, an
+University, an Intendant, a Governor, and of all the Sovereign Courts in
+the Government. Its Metropolitan Church, which was heretofore no more than
+the See of a Bishop, Suffragan to the Archbishop of _Sens_, is dedicated
+to the Virgin _Mary_. St. _Denys_, who liv'd in the first Ages of
+Christianity, is own'd to be its Founder, or at least its first Bishop.
+Its first Archbishop was _Francis de Gondy_, who obtain'd that Dignity by
+a Bull of Pope _Gregory_ XV. in 1622. since which Time there have been
+seven Archbishops. Whoever is the Archbishop, has the Title of Duke of St.
+_Cloud_, and in that Quality is both Duke and Peer of _France_. The
+present Archbishop's Name is _N. N. de Vintimille_ of the Counts _du Luc_.
+He succeeded _Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal _de Noailles_, and finds his Diocese
+as disobedient to his Mandates, as it was to those of his Predecessor.
+The good Prelate does all he can, to bring back his[42]stray'd Sheep; but
+it seems as if most of the _Parisians_ know not what they would be at; and
+indeed the greatest Number dispute about Matters, which they don't
+understand. I find the Talk of all PARIS engross'd by two grand Subjects;
+I mean grand for the _Parisians_, and, if I may venture to say it, for the
+_French_ in general: For, to be plain, 'tis owing to the Want of something
+else to talk of during a long Peace, that they busy themselves very
+seriously about Things, which at other Times they would think unworthy of
+their Attention. The one is the Affair of Father _Girard_ and _la
+Cadiere_; the other, the pretended Miracles of the Abb� _Paris_. There is
+nothing so base, with which Knavery and a furious Zeal can inspire a
+Party, but what has been said and written on these Subjects. The Enemies
+of the _Jesuits_ have[43]invented, that Father _John Baptist Girard_, a
+Native of _Dole_ in _Franche Comt�_, debauch'd one _la Cadiere_, who came
+to him for Confession; they prevail'd on the young Woman to accuse him of
+Crimes, the very Idea of which is shocking, and which the most resolute
+Villain would not dare perhaps to be guilty of, much less Father _Girard_;
+who, till accus'd of this Wickedness, had always _pass'd_ for an honest
+Man, whose Conduct and Morals had been edifying in Places where he had
+been, and particularly at _Toulon_, where nevertheless he is said to have
+committed the most horrid Enormities. But _la Cadiere_ has recanted; and
+the Parlement of _Aix_, before whom the Cause was pleaded, has declar'd
+Father _Girard_ innocent. Yet the _Jansenists_ exclaim, and wish that the
+King would cause the Members of that Parlement to be hang'd up, because
+they could not in Conscience bring in Father _Girard_ guilty.
+
+The following _Epigram_ is lately publish'd upon that Parlement:
+
+      _Pour avoir immol� le Fils du Tout-Puissant
+      +Pilate+ moins que vous nous parut detestable;
+      Il ne re��t point d'or pour punir l'Innocent,
+      Mais vous en recevez pour sauver le coupable._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+_Pilate_, tho' he sacrific'd the Son of the Almighty, is even less
+detestable in our Eyes than you; for he receiv'd no Gold to punish the
+Innocent, but you take it to save the Guilty.
+
+                                Or thus:
+
+      _Of Judges that in Judgment sit,
+        Whether incurs most Banns,
+      He that for Gold doth Vice acquit,
+        Or Virtue +gratis+ damns?_
+
+      _+Pilate+, who sacrific'd the Son
+      Of the Almighty Lord,
+      Because no Golden Bribe he won,
+      Is less than you abhorr'd._
+
+Father _Girard_'s Adventure calls to my Mind a great Scandal of this
+Nature, that happen'd in the fourth Century, on Occasion of a Lady's
+Confession to a Deacon; which obliged the Patriarch _Nectarius_ to abolish
+Auricular Confession throughout the _East_; as may be seen in the fourth
+Tome of _Fleuri_'s _Ecclesiastical History_. This Author, in his Sixteenth
+Tome, says, that in the twelfth Century there were Abbesses in _Spain_,
+who preach'd, gave Blessings, and confessed Persons of both Sexes. If this
+Practice was re-establish'd, there would be no Room to fear such Disorders
+and Scandals as have happen'd in _Provence_.
+
+The second Topic, which takes up a great deal of the _Parisians_
+Conversation, is the pretended Miracles of the Sieur _Paris_, to whose
+Tomb People flock as much as they could be suppos'd to do to the _Holy
+Sepulchre_ itself. Curiosity drew me thither as well as others; and I
+found such a vast Crowd of People, that 'twas with much ado I could get to
+the Stone which covers the Saint of the Populace. While I was looking at
+this Tombstone, I heard 'em cry behind, _Stand by, make Room there_; so
+that I thought some Prince of the Blood was coming; but 'twas no more than
+a mean-looking Fellow, who, with a very contrite Air, went and stretch'd
+himself on the Tomb; where he had not lain many Moments, but I saw him
+turn up the Whites of his Eyes, grind his Teeth, foam at the Mouth, and
+twist his Body into such Postures, that he look'd more like one that had
+the Devil in him, than the Favourite of a Saint. These Agitations lasted
+as long as the Man had any Strength; after which he was carry'd off, and
+I assure you, that when he was taken from the Tomb, he had a much more
+sickly Look than when he came to it. Nevertheless the People bawl'd out,
+_A Miracle!_ and I even heard it said, _Who can doubt one Moment, after so
+manifest a Cure as this, that +Paris+ is a Saint!_
+
+Such Miracles, as this that I have now related to you, are work'd here
+every Day: One can't set a Foot into a House, without being entertain'd
+with some new Story plac'd to the Accompt of the Abb� _Paris_; yet I
+protest, that not one single Miracle has been prov'd: and M. _Herault_,
+the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whom all these Miracles are
+reported, said, in my Hearing, that there was not one of them true; that
+'twas a palpable Delusion; and that 'twas only tolerated, the better to
+trace it up to its Source, and to undeceive the Populace; which, I
+believe, will be no easy Matter, they are so much prepossess'd in Favour
+of their Saint. The only Way would be for the Pope to canonise the Sieur
+_Paris_, and then I am persuaded, that all the Devotees of this new Saint
+wou'd abandon him, rather than be in the Holy Father's Mess. But here I
+leave both Father _Girard_ and the Abb� _Paris_, though perhaps I shall
+find an Opportunity of discovering all that I may hear of them to you,
+when I think it worthy of your Regard; but I shall be far from troubling
+you with every impertinent Tale that is reread about them; for I verily
+believe, that all the Songs and Verses that are made upon them wou'd form
+several Volumes: And it must be expected this Humour will last, till
+something new starts up to drown both these Subjects of present
+Conversation. I own to you, that I am very much in Pain to think what the
+_French_ can have to amuse them after this is over; for their Genius is
+such, that it must have something to work upon, tho' 'tis happy for them
+that a mere Nothing suffices, and that such Nothing is always treated by
+them as a serious Affair, and proves to them an inexhaustible Fund of
+Something.
+
+You ask me, how I employ my Time here? which is a Question that is not
+very soon answer'd. My Amusements are of such various Kinds, that, to be
+plain with you, I find myself at a loss to account for them. I should
+often be very much puzzled to prove an _alibi_ of two Days. This Country
+is my Centre, and PARIS is to me the Spring of Youth. Never was any
+Reflection more mortifying to me, than the Thought that I am not in a
+Condition to fix my Habitation here; for tho' I find Faults in the
+_French_, as well as in all other Nations, yet I acknowledge they have a
+thousand good Qualities; and I think them much more amiable at home than
+they are abroad, where, be a Man ever so much prepossess'd in their Favour
+upon other Accounts, he is surfeited with their eternal Criticisms, and to
+hear them incessantly remarking, _They don't do so at +Paris+. You don't
+see this in +France+_. Here they are polite, good-natur'd, humane, civil
+and engaging; and a Foreigner, who can bring himself ever so little into
+their Way of Thinking, Acting, and Speaking, will always be sorry to leave
+them.
+
+But I am not about giving you the Character of the _French_; what I am now
+to acquaint you with is, how I live with them. In a very irregular Course
+of Life, I aim at a certain Regularity: I rise very late, because I don't
+go to Bed till Two or Three o'Clock in the Morning: When I am dress'd, I
+go to some Cabinet of Curiosities, some Library, or to some Structure or
+other, which, tho' I have seen perhaps an hundred times, I revisit with
+Pleasure, because I always find some new Beauty in it. Such are the H�tel
+or Hospital of the _Invalids_, founded and built by _Lewis_ XIV. _Val de
+Grace_, the Church which is the Repositary of the Hearts and Bowels of the
+Kings and Princes of the Royal Family, and was founded by _Anne_ of
+_Austria_, Mother to _Lewis_ XIV. the Choir of _Notre Dame_, adorn'd with
+Marble and Brass by _Lewis_ XIV. to fulfill a Vow made by King _Lewis_
+XIII. his Father; the _Louvre_, with all the Beauties it contains; and, in
+fine, a Number of other stately Fabrics, which I don't mention or describe
+to you, because a thousand Authors have already given a better Account of
+them, than I am able to do. After having thus saunter'd away two or three
+Hours, I return home to Dinner; for I rarely dine abroad: When I have
+din'd, if I am alone, I read for an Hour or two; after which I go out,
+either to make Visits, or else to take the Air. I often go to their Plays,
+not only because I have a Taste that way, but to avoid Gaming; for you
+can't go into a House, but they bring out the Cards. After the Comedy is
+over, which I am forc'd, whether I will or not, to prefer to the Opera, I
+go to some House, where there's no saying nay, but I must make one at
+Quadrille, to ease me of my Money; for I know not what 'tis to win. I am
+entertain'd with a good Supper, and then I join in a second Party at
+Quadrille, and sometimes in a third; and go home at three o'Clock in the
+Morning, with an empty Pocket.
+
+This Itch for Gaming, which has infected the Generality of the _French_,
+is look'd upon as one of the Plagues of the Nation. I can't imagine how
+'tis possible for People, who can scarce stay a Quarter of an Hour in one
+Place, but are generally restless where-ever they are, to sit five or six
+Hours together in cutting and shuffling the Cards. 'Tis however a
+necessary Evil, especially for a Foreigner, who must otherwise make a very
+silly Figure, till he is quite initiated in the Customs of the Country.
+The Ladies say of a Man who does not play, that he is a useless Piece of
+Lumber; and the most flaming Lovers cease to make Love, as soon as Cards
+are brought upon the Carpet.
+
+There are some Houses however, where this Passion for Gaming is not quite
+so prevalent; 'tis said too, that the Lawyers Houses are not so liable to
+the Contagion; but I own, I am not conversant enough with them to know the
+Difference. 'Tis certain, that at Court they play deeper than any-where,
+and very many of the Nobility have impair'd their Fortunes, for the sake
+of having the Honour to be one of a Party with the King. His Majesty
+commonly plays at Lansquenet; the Party consists of twelve Cutters, who
+set a _Lewis d'Or_ upon the Card. The King, and the principal Gamesters,
+as the Count _de Tholouse_, the Duke _d'Antin_, the Duke _de Grammont_,
+and the like, set two, and sometimes four _Lewis d'Ors_ upon a Stake. The
+King is reckon'd to have the best Luck of all that play in the Queen's
+Apartment: Any body that is well dress'd is admitted to make one of the
+Company, which forms a great Court, tho' a mix'd Assembly. All the Ladies
+sit round the Gaming-table, and the Men stand. The _French_ say, that
+Gaming sets every body upon a Level. There's one _S. Remi_, who had been a
+Lacquey first to the Marshal _d'Estr�e_'s Lady, and then to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_, who preferr'd him to be his _Valet de Chambre_, and at the
+Queen's Arrival gave him a Post in her Majesty's Houshold, which he held
+at the same time that he officiated as the Duke's _Valet de Chambre_: I
+have seen this Man raise or fall the Mirth of the King's Company at
+Pleasure; 'tis true, he does not cut; but he is at every Card, and makes
+very good Pastime. At _Fontainebleau_, I heard him one Day bet the King
+twenty _Lewis d'Ors_, upon his own Card against his Majesty's. The King
+answer'd coolly, _No, Marquis_; which is a Nickname that his Majefty has
+given him, and may nevertheless be transmitted to the Posterity of this
+_S. Remi_, who is moreover Fop enough to be a Marquis.
+
+This Medley of People at Play has been the Custom in _France_ at all
+times. I remember to have heard the late Mother of the Regent say, That
+when she went upon a time from _Versailles_, where she resided with the
+King, to see her Husband, _Lewis_ XIV's Brother, who was gone to spend a
+few Days at St. _Cloud_, she found him playing at Lansquenet with a dozen
+Cutters, of whom she knew but two; and when the Game was out, she ask'd
+her Husband, who the People were that he had been playing with: _They are
+very honest Fellows_, reply'd the Prince, _good substantial Tradesmen of
++Paris+, who play well, and for a great deal of Money_. The old Lady gave
+us moreover to understand, that she had not been at that time long in
+_France_, and that she was so vex'd to find her Husband in such Company,
+that she cou'd not forbear to upbraid him for it; but her Husband turn'd
+it all off with a Laugh, and made her Answer, _That she had still a Spice
+of the +German+ Haughtiness, but that it would wear off in Time_.
+
+'Tis certain however, that this Liberty, with which all Sorts of People
+are indulg'd, of coming in for a Game and away, renders them fawcy. That
+noted Comedian _Baron_, the greatest Coxcomb of all Men living before the
+_Quinaults_, was one Day at the House of the Prince _de Conti_, the same
+that had been chose King of _Poland_, where they were playing at
+Lansquenet. _Baron_, pulling his Purse out with a careless Air, said to
+the Prince, _Ten Lewis D'Ors upon the Knave, +M. de Conti+. Done,
++Britannicus+_, said the Prince _de Conti_, who knew that _Baron_ had
+been just acting that Part in a Play. It is certain, that at many of the
+Womens Houses, the Gamesters are as much pamper'd as a Father Confessor is
+by his Female Votary. A greet many Houses subsist here by the Emoluments
+of Gaming, where, were it not for the Money arising from their Cards,
+their Suppers would be very light, and many that now ride wou'd go on
+Foot. The Duke _de Gevres_, Governor of _Paris_, and the Prince _de
+Carignan_, who have a Grant for licensing all manner of Gaming, have
+farm'd it out, and get 120,000 Livres a-piece by it clear Money; which one
+shall hardly find in any City in the World.
+
+This Gaming puts me in mind of a Lottery they have here every Month, which
+is a Sort of Game too, where the Banker is the greatest Gainer. These
+Lotteries have been set on foot by the Parson of the Parish of St.
+_Sulpice_, to help build his Church, and twenty Sols is the Price of each
+Ticket; but they prove the utter Undoing of many a Lacquey and
+Maid-Servant; which made a Friend of mine say, that the Parson of St.
+_Sulpice_, out of Gratitude to the poor Devils, for burying their Wages in
+his Lottery, could do no less, when they die, than bury their Carcases for
+nothing. This Lottery is worth to the Parson about 20,000 Livres a Month,
+besides the Sums he gets from the pious Contributions of several Persons
+zealous for the House of God: Nevertheless these Works go on so slowly,
+that the Parson's Trowel is not like to be laid aside yet-a-while, tho',
+if his Church be ever finished, 'twill be the greatest and the finest in
+the Kingdom; for all the new Works are design'd by _Giles Maria Oppenord_,
+the Duke of _Orleans_'s chief Architect, and one of the most skilful of
+his Profession in _France_.
+
+The Parsonage of St. _Sulpice_ is the most considerable, not only of
+_Paris_, but perhaps of _Europe_; for it brings in the Parson as much as
+some good Dioceses do their Bishops. The Right of Presentation to it is in
+the Abbat and Friers of the Abbey of St. _Germain_. The present Incumbent
+is M. _Languet de Gergy_, who has one Brother that is Bishop of
+_Soissons_[44], and another now an Ambassador at _Venice_[45]. The
+Vigilance both of the Pastor, and of the Priests whom he employs for
+administring the Sacraments, cannot but be commended: The latter form a
+numerous Society, attend their Function with Application, and Divine
+Service is perform'd in the Church with very great Edification. The
+Society, and several Seminaries join'd to it, form together the most
+numerous Body of Clergy in all the Kingdom. The Seminary of St. _Sulpice_
+is one of the most frequented, because the Ecclesiastical Discipline is
+there taught and practis'd with Care; perhaps too, because Subjects are
+often taken from thence for the chief Dignities of the Church. Nothing is
+more edifying than to see the Procession of this Parish upon the Day of
+_Corpus Christi_, when there's a numerous Appearance of the Clergy in
+magnificent Copes: The Canopy, under which the Holy Sacrament is carry'd,
+is extraordinary rich. Twenty-four young Clergymen go before the Holy
+Sacrament, and twelve always walk backward, perfuming the Host, as they
+go, with Censers of Silver. There is not a Procession in the Kingdom that
+is made with more Dignity and Order[46]. With your Favour, I will conclude
+this Letter with the bare Mention of this Sacred Ceremony. As I propose
+to go to-morrow to _Versailles_, I shall send you what Observations I make
+there. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XL.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Versailles, April 15, 1732._
+
+I have been now just ten Days at _Versailles_, where I have had the Honour
+of greeting the King and Queen, and all the Royal Family. I perceiv'd the
+King since his Marriage is grown very fat, but he is still one of the
+finest Princes in _Europe_. It may be said of _Lewis_ XV. that he is a
+Prince born without Vice, and free from that Haughtiness, which is
+commonly attach'd to Royalty: He is familiar with his Courtiers, reserv'd
+to Persons that are unknown to him, and particularly to Ambassadors, and
+more secret and circumspect than Persons of his Age. He has the Morals,
+Behaviour, and Sentiments of a good Man, and from thence _France_ may
+expect his Reign will be gentle and peaceful. It appears, as if _Lewis_
+XV. will be content with the Government of one of the most powerful
+Monarchies of the World, and that he will not be inclin'd to disturb
+_Europe_, for the sake of conquering a Town or a Province. He has been
+educated in such Sentiments of Justice, that his Neighbours ought not to
+be afraid of him, since God has undoubtedly chose him to be one of the
+Arbitrators of _Europe_, in order for the Preservation, and not for the
+Destruction of Equity: _Lewis_ the _Pacific_ and the _Debonaire_ will be
+his distinguishing Titles: Must not these be dearer to his Subjects, than
+the bloody Title of _Lewis_ the _Conqueror_? And may he not be great, and
+at the same time a Lover of Peace? Hitherto the King seems to follow the
+Plans of Government chalk'd out by the late Duke of _Burgundy_, his
+Father, whose Wisdom is still rever'd by _France_. God grant that he may
+always take them for his Models, and that his Reign may be long, and end
+as glorious as it begun!
+
+I never cast my Eyes upon _Lewis_ XV. without admiring the Providence
+which has preserv'd him, contrary to the People's Expectation. I have had
+the Honour to see him Duke of _Anjou_, his Brother, the Duke of
+_Bretagne_, being then alive. I have seen him the Dauphin of _France_, and
+at length I have seen him on the Throne: He had at one time a pale
+Complexion, which did not promise long Life. What Diseases has he not
+labour'd under! yet he now enjoys a perfect State of Health, and the
+Crown, which was so likely to devolve to collateral Branches, is
+establish'd upon the Head of this young Prince, and like to descend to his
+own Posterity. In fine, a King of _France_, Father of five Children living
+before he is twenty Years of Age, is such a Ph�nomenon as is hardly to be
+parallell'd in antient or modern History, and 'tis in my Opinion more
+extraordinary even than the advanc'd Age, and the long Reign of his
+Great-Grandfather.
+
+The Queen is a Princess of exemplary Virtue, whose sole Application is to
+discharge her Duties to God, the King, and her Children: She is extremely
+gracious and civil, and has a great Happiness of expressing herself in the
+_French_, _German_, and _Polish_ Languages: She had formerly a great Taste
+for Music, and is now fond of Reading; but being entirely conformable to
+her Husband's Sentiments, she takes no manner of Share in the Government:
+She loves no Pageantry nor Ceremony, and the Rank of being the first Queen
+in the World seems to have no other Effect upon her, than to render her
+Virtues more venerable and conspicuous.
+
+As for the Children of _France_, they are as yet too young to be
+characteris'd. Mean time I assure you, 'tis a fine Sight to see them going
+to the Queen's Apartment, or running along the Gallery, with at least
+forty Attendants in their Train, including the Ladies and Chambermaids.
+The Person intrusted with the Care of the Education of the Children of
+_France_ is the Duchess _de Ventadour_; but as she is very far advanced in
+Years, and not able to be with them every-where, the Duchess of _Tallard_,
+her Grand-daughter, is join'd with her in the Commission. This Lady is the
+Daughter of the Prince _de Rohan_, Brother to the Cardinal: The Choice
+which has been made of her to succeed the Duchess of _Ventadour_, has been
+applauded by the whole Court; and in short, there are few Ladies that have
+a more noble Carriage, more Politeness, and sublimer Sentiments: And 'tis
+very remarkable, that since the Birth of the Dauphin, _Lewis_ XIVth's only
+Son, the Mother, the Daughter, and the Grand-daughter have always been
+trusted with the Education of the Children of _France_.
+
+Her Royal Highness, the Widow of the Regent, who is Daughter to _Lewis_
+XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_, is the first in Rank at Court, and she is
+the only Princess that has a Right to sit at Table with their Majesties,
+when they dine in State; but 'tis a Prerogative that she does not often
+make use of, because she has such a Dislike to Dress, that she appears
+little at Court; and when she comes to the King or Queen, 'tis in private:
+She commonly resides at _Paris_, or at _Bagnolet_[47]: She is the only
+Princess of the Kingdom that has Guards, and enjoys the Honours of a
+Daughter of _France_. King _Lewis_ XIV. granted all these great
+Distinctions to the late Duke of _Orleans_, in Favour of this Marriage, to
+which that Prince agreed against the Consent of his late Father, and the
+express Prohibition of his Mother; who was so exasperated against her Son,
+for not resisting _Lewis_ XIVth's Will and Pleasure, that she lifted up
+her Hand against him, when he told her that he was just marry'd, would not
+see her Daughter-in-law for a long time, and never could endure the
+Thoughts of the Match, till she saw her Grand-daughter marry'd to the Duke
+of _Berry_. Since that time, she has not been so strongly prejudic'd
+against her, but acknowledges her Royal Highness's Virtues, and always
+kept a good Correspondence with her. This Princess lives very retir'd in
+the Midst of the Court, and is very much employ'd in Works of Piety.
+
+Her Son, the Duke of _Orleans_, is a Prince of exemplary Devotion, being
+almost continually at Prayer, or performing Works of Charity: He made two
+or three Attempts to retire from the World, but the King thinking his
+Presence necessary in his Council, would not consent to it. His most
+serene Highness is the first Prince of the Blood, and Governor of
+_Dauphiny_; and he was once Colonel and Captain General of the _French_
+Infantry, but he resign'd that Post some Years ago. This Prince marry'd
+the Princess of _Baden_, by whom he has a Son styl'd Duke of _Chartres_, a
+hopeful young Prince, who is educated at St. _Cloud_, remote from the
+Grandeur and Hurry of the Court.
+
+The Duke of _Orleans_ has also four Sisters in the Kingdom, the eldest of
+whom is the Abbess _de Chelles_, who was formerly styl'd Mademoiselle _de
+Chartres_. This Princess, in spite of all the Persuasions of the late
+Regent and the Duchess, who did their utmost to divert her from it, took
+the Habit of a Nun, tho' she was one of the most amiable Princesses in
+_Europe_, and might have made a great Prince happy.
+
+The second Sister is the Queen of _Spain_, the Dowager of _Lewis_ I. whom
+she marry'd when he was Prince of _Asturias_, before his Father resign'd
+the Crown of _Spain_ to him; but the young King did not live long to enjoy
+it, and after his Death, the young Queen Dowager having a Desire to return
+to _France_, their Catholic Majesties consented to it, and the King of
+_France_ allow'd her the Castle of _Vincennes_ to reside in, where for
+some time she liv'd: She had not been there many Weeks, when she receiv'd
+a Visit from the King, who said, before he went, that his Visit would be
+short. _I am not very talkative_, said his Majesty, _and they say, that
+the Queen of +Spain+ does not talk at all; so that I don't believe we
+shall have much Conversation_: And indeed the Visit was very short. The
+Queen receiv'd the King at the Step of the Coach, and the King taking her
+by the Hand, led her into his Chamber, where two Arm-Chairs were plac'd
+for them under a Canopy. The King seated himself on the Right Hand, and
+after a few Words spoke by the Duke _de Bourbon_, and the Duke _de
+Noailles_, who, as Captain of the Guards, stood behind the King's Chair,
+his Majesty rose, and went away with the same Ceremonies as he came. Some
+time after this, the Queen of _Spain_ went to visit the King, when her
+Guards were plac'd in all the Posts of _Versailles_, the King's Guards
+being order'd to make room for them. The King receiv'd the Queen as she
+alighted from the Coach, and every thing pass'd with the same Formality as
+at _Vincennes_. The Queen of _Spain_, after some Stay at the Castle of
+_Vincennes_, went to live in those Apartments at _Luxembourg_, which had
+been the Residence of her Sister the Duchess of _Berry_; but some time ago
+she retir'd to a Convent, and her Family, which was at first exceeding
+numerous, was very much reduc'd. If we except the vain Honours of Royalty,
+she would have been far more happy, if she had never been a Queen; for
+then she might have marry'd again; whereas now she must continue a Widow,
+and pass the Prime of her Days in Solitude and Retirement.
+
+The third Sister of the Duke of _Orleans_ is Mademoiselle _de Beaujolois_,
+who was design'd as a Match for the Infante, Don _Carlos_; but when the
+Infanta of _Spain_ was sent back from _France_, return'd to this Kingdom
+with the Queen, her Sister: She is one of the most beautiful and most
+amiable Princesses upon Earth, worthy to reign, and worthy of the
+Infante[48].
+
+Mademoiselle _d'Orleans_[49], her Sister, is a very charming Princess,
+with an exceeding graceful Air, and Behaviour fully answerable to her
+Birth.
+
+Next to the Family of _Orleans_, the first in Rank is that of _Conde_,
+which consists of three Princes, and six Princesses: The Duke _de Bourbon_
+is the chief, who is great Steward of the King's Houshold, and Governor of
+_Burgundy_, His Highness lost one Eye in Hunting, by an unfortunate Shot
+from the Duke of _Berry_: He was marry'd very young to Mademoiselle _de
+Conti_ his Cousin, who died without Issue. He was also but young when he
+made the Campaigns in _Germany_, in Company with his Brother-in-law the
+Prince of _Conti_. After the Decease of _Lewis_ XIV. the Duke went to Law
+with the legitimated Princes, and caus'd the Duke _de Maine_ to be
+degraded from the Rank of Prince of the Blood, to which he had been
+promoted by an Arret solemnly register'd in Parliament during the Life of
+the late King. The Duke of _Bourbon_ demanded, as first Prince of the
+Blood, whom he then represented, by reason of the tender Age of the Duke
+of _Chartres_, now Duke of _Orleans_, to have the Superintendance of the
+King's Education, to which Post the Duke _de Maine_ had been nominated by
+the late King's last Will: He obtain'd his Demand, and the Duke _de Maine_
+retir'd to _Seaux_. The Duke _de Bourbon_ had after this a great Share in
+the Affairs of the Regency, and the Duke of _Orleans_ took care to keep
+him in good Humour. At the unexpected Death of the Regent, the Duke, being
+then at _Versailles_, went to the King, and demanded the Post of Prime
+Minister, vacant by the Death of his Royal Highness, and obtain'd it. The
+late M. _de la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State, being perhaps a little too
+forgetful of his Obligations to the Son of a Prince who had heap'd Favours
+upon him, drew up the Patent instantly, and caus'd it to be sign'd by the
+King, before the Duke of _Chartres_, who was at the Opera at _Paris_,
+could hear the News of his Father's Death; so that tho' he went Post to
+_Versailles_, and demanded the Office of First Minister, the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ told him, that the King had dispos'd of it to himself. The Duke
+was no sooner vested with the Authority of Prime Minister, than he made
+great Alterations in the Government; but these are the Subject of History
+rather than of a Letter. M. _le Blanc_, who had been Secretary at War,
+and was the Darling of the Officers, was committed to the _Bastille_; and
+M. _de Breteuil_, who had been formerly Master of the Requests, and
+Intendant of _Tours_, succeeded him in that Office; which was the
+Consequence of a Misunderstanding, or rather a Hatred, between two Ladies,
+who were the Mistresses, the one of the Duke of _Bourbon_, the other of M.
+_le Blanc_. All the Friends of the latter, among whom was M. the Count _de
+Belle-Isle_, shared in his Disgrace. The four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_ had the Management of the Finances, of which Brothers two had been
+Soldiers in the Guards; but they had the Cunning to extricate themselves
+from that melancholy State, and to render themselves necessary to the
+Government during the Time of the Regency. M. _d'Argenson_ Keeper of the
+Seals had been their Patron, and rais'd them upon the Ruins of Mr. _John
+Law_, and his System. Whatever was done by these Brothers is foreign to my
+Purpose: Their rapid Fortune drew Envy upon them, and they soon became the
+Objects of the public Hatred.
+
+The most remarkable Transactions of the Duke's Administration, were the
+sending back of the Infanta, and the Marriage of the King. The Duke,
+foreseeing the Inconveniencies to which _France_ would be liable, if the
+King should die without Issue, thought it best to prevent so fatal an
+Accident, which it had not been possible for him to have done without
+marrying the King. The Infanta of _Spain_ was a Child, and it would be at
+least eight Years before they could hope for any Issue from her; whereas
+by marrying the King to another speedily, there was a Chance of having a
+Dauphin very soon, who would secure the Tranquillity of the Kingdom. His
+most Serene Highness therefore propos'd this Affair to the Council, which
+at first he found very much divided about it; for they were apprehensive
+of the Resentment of the King of _Spain_, and the Duke himself was
+heartily sorry, that he was under a Necessity of giving their Catholic
+Majesties just Cause of Disgust for the sake of the public Good: The
+Council being at last agreed, they pass'd a Resolution unanimously to send
+back the Infanta. This was accordingly notified to the Court of _Spain_,
+where News so unexpected was receiv'd with all the Indignation possible.
+The Infanta was sent back. The Duchess of _Tallard_ had the Care of
+conducting her to the _Spanish_ Frontier. All the Honours due to the
+Daughter of a great King were paid to this Princess, and every thing that
+could be thought of, was done to soften the Displeasure of their Catholic
+Majesties for her Return. All _France_ murmur'd in secret at the Departure
+of this Princess; for she had won the Hearts of all who had seen her, by a
+Behaviour and a Genius so vastly above one of her Age, that they
+prognosticated she would one Day be a great Queen. Not long after she was
+sent away, the King was married to a Princess so happy in Childbearing,
+that Heaven thereby seems to applaud what the Duke has done, and the
+People, quite forgetting the Infanta, bless his Name.
+
+The King, after he had been married a few Months, thought it was not
+convenient for a Prince of the Blood to have the Direction of his Affairs;
+and therefore he displac'd the Duke of _Bourbon_ from the Post of Prime
+Minister, and made the late Bishop of _Frejus_, now the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, the sole Depositary of his Authority. The Duke receiv'd Orders to
+retire to _Chantilly_, a Seat he has near _Senlis_; and there his Friends
+put it into his Head to marry a second Wife: Several Princesses were
+propos'd to him, but he determin'd his Choice for _Eleonora_ of
+_Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister of the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_[50]; and the Brother of this Princess, having a Proxy sent to
+him from the Duke, married her at _Rotenbourg_, in Presence of the Count
+_de Gasse_, whom the Duke had sent to assist in his Name at this Ceremony.
+The young Duchess no sooner arriv'd in _France_, but her Beauty, and the
+Charms both of her Person and Mind, made her admir'd by the whole Court,
+of which she is now one of the principal Ornaments: She is belov'd and
+respected by all Mankind, and every body pities her, that the Duke has not
+all that Tenderness for her which she deserves, and which it were to be
+wish'd he had for the Support of the _Conde_ Family, of which the two only
+Princes remaining, _viz._ the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_, are
+not married.
+
+The Count _de Charolois_ is tall, handsome, and well-set: His Entrance
+upon the Stage of Action was much taken Notice of; for a Thirst after
+Glory was the Passion of his Soul, as soon as he came to the Years of
+Understanding. The War being kindled in _Hungary_, and Prince _Eugene_ of
+_Savoy_ having gain'd a Victory near _Temiswar_, which reviv'd that Hero's
+Reputation in _France_, the Count _de Charolois_ had a mind to learn the
+Art of War under so great a Master, and to make the Campaign which
+immediately follow'd that of _Temiswar_; but he did not dare to discover
+his Intention, and fearing that he should not obtain the Consent, either
+of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, the Duchess his Mother, or the Duke
+his Father, he resolv'd to set out privately, being sure that he should be
+applauded for his Undertaking, if he could be so happy as to put it in
+Execution. He imparted his Design in Confidence to M. _de Billy_, one of
+his Gentlemen, and to _Renault_ his first _Valet de Chambre_, and with
+these two Attendants he set out from _Chantilly_ on Pretence of Hunting.
+He travell'd five or six Post-Stages with the very Horses that belonged to
+the Duke his Father; after which he left them to the Care of the
+Post-master, and hir'd fresh Horses, with which he reach'd _Liege_; where
+he rested some Days, and having provided himself with Linen, went to the
+Court of the Elector of _Cologn_, whom he had known in _France_: His first
+Visit at _Bonn_, was at the House of M. _de S. Maurice_, the Elector's
+Prime Minister; but he did not find him at home. M. _de Billy_ thereupon
+desir'd to speak with his Lady, and told her, that a certain Punctilio of
+Honour had oblig'd him to come from _France_ with the young Gentleman in
+his Company; but Madame _de S. Maurice_, not thinking he was a Prince of
+the Blood, and taking the Count _de Charolois_ for some petty Officer,
+gave him a very cold Reception: However, she sent for her Husband, who was
+then attending the Elector's Person; and when the Count _de S. Maurice_
+came, he presently knew the Count _de Charolois_, paid him all due
+Respects, and hasten'd to notify his Arrival to the Elector, who at first
+was concern'd to hear it, because his Electoral Highness knew not but he
+might disoblige the Court of _France_ by receiving the Count, who he
+imagin'd had left the Kingdom upon some Disgust. Nevertheless, after
+reflecting with himself, that whatever the Count _de Charolois_ might have
+done, the Court of _France_ could not be angry with him for paying a
+Regard to his Quality as Prince of the Blood, he sent to invite him to his
+Palace. The Count went thither accordingly, by the Name of the Count _de
+Dammartin_, which he always travell'd With as long as he was absent from
+the Kingdom. The Elector receiv'd him With all the Marks of the highest
+Esteem, kept him several Days at his Court, and then furnish'd him with
+Money for his Journey to _Munich_; where he no sooner arriv'd, but he
+wrote to the Duke his Father to send him Remittances, and the necessary
+Equipages for the Campaign which he was then going to make.
+
+Tho' the Count _de Charolois_ did not find the Elector of _Bavaria_ at
+_Munich_, yet he was as well receiv'd as if he had been there; and the
+Electress, tho' he had not been to see her, no sooner heard of his
+Arrival, but she order'd all due Honours to be paid to him. When the
+Elector return'd to _Munich_, he was overjoy'd to find this Prince there,
+and offer'd to make his Peace in _France_, in which he succeeded so far,
+as to get his Departure out of the Kingdom approv'd by the Duchess and the
+Regent. When the Count's Domestics were arriv'd, he set out for _Hungary_,
+and pass'd through _Vienna_ without saluting the Emperor, or the Empress
+Dowager his Cousin German. The Empress Was so offended at it, that she
+wrote to her Aunt, who was the Prince's Grandmother, and signified to that
+Princess, that she did not think it handsome for a Prince of such Descent
+as the Count _de Charolois_, to pass through _Vienna_ to serve in the
+Imperial Army, without having seen the Emperor. The Count's Relations did
+not fail to reproach him for his Want of Respect to their Imperial
+Majesties. He excus'd himself, by saying that he did not know what
+Treatment he ought to expect; but the Answer he receiv'd, was an Order
+from the Regent in the King's Name, to wait on their Imperial Majesties as
+he return'd from the Campaign.
+
+He signaliz'd himself in it very much, but with so little Care of his
+Person, that Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ often reproach'd him for it: He
+took a Pleasure to go up to the very Breast-work of the Trenches; and
+from thence with Screw-Guns he fir'd at the _Turks_, as if he had been
+shooting at small Birds: On the other hand the _Turks_ did not spare him,
+but sent their Balls whizzing about his Ears in Return for his Frolic. The
+Count was present at the Battle of _Belgrade_, and saw that Place taken:
+He afterwards went to _Vienna_, and staid there some Weeks, where he had
+an Audience of the Emperor, not _incognito_, but as the Count _de
+Charolois_. The Emperor receiv'd him at the _Favourita_ standing: His
+Audience was attended with this odd Circumstance. The Count, being not
+acquainted with the Ceremonial, did not know that he should find the
+Emperor all alone; and therefore, when he enter'd the Closet, and saw a
+Man in a very plain Dress leaning with his Back against a Table, he took
+him for some private Gentleman; but in a few Moments he spy'd the Golden
+Fleece: He was doubtful in his Mind, after all, whether 'twas the Emperor;
+but he advanc'd, saying within himself, that in either case there was not
+much Harm in being mistaken. The Emperor receiv'd him with very great
+Marks of Distinction, and the Count kiss'd his Hand, because he had been
+told it was the Custom, and that all the Princes of the Empire did the
+same. He afterwards went to the Apartment of the Empresses, and had
+reason, where-ever he came, to be satisfied with his Reception.
+
+From _Vienna_ he return'd to _Munich_, after which he made the Tour of
+_Italy_, and lodg'd at _Rome_ at the House of the Cardinal _de
+Tremouille_, who had then the Care of the Affairs of _France_. After
+having repass'd the Mountains, he came back to _Munich_, where he stay'd a
+Year and an half, being always lodg'd and defray'd, together with his
+Retinue, at the Expence of his Electoral Highness, who kept a Table for
+him for twelve Guests, besides Hunting-Equipage, and Horses at his
+Command.
+
+Hunting is this Prince's chief Amusement since he return'd to _France_: He
+appears seldom at Court, and neither meddles nor makes with Affairs of
+State. They talk often of getting him a Wife; but he does not seem to have
+any more Go�t for the Sacrament of Marriage, than his younger Brother the
+Count _de Clermont_, a young Prince of a lovely Person, a sweet Nature,
+and who seems to have a way of Thinking becoming his Birth. They who
+approach him, and know him intimately, have assur'd me, that he has all
+the Qualities that can be to form hereafter a great Prince. It seems as if
+he were design'd for the Church, since his most Serene Highness actually
+enjoys several considerable Abbeys; but hitherto this Prince dresses in
+the Lay Habit, and performs no Spiritual Function. While I was speaking of
+the Count _de Charolois_, I forgot so tell you, that he is Governor of _la
+Touraine_, in which Honour he succeeded the late M. _Dangeau_, first
+Gentleman-Usher to the late Duchess of _Burgundy_. In his time _la
+Touraine_ was not reckon'd among the great Governments; but as the Regent
+was willing to give one to the Count _de Charolois_, after having granted
+away the Reversions of all the great Governments, he thought of no other
+Expedient, than to put _la Touraine_ in the Rank of the other Provinces.
+
+The three Princes that I have just mention'd, are the Sons of Madame the
+Duchess (of _Bourbon_) the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. and Madame
+_de Montespan_; She is a Princess who has been cry'd-up in _Europe_ for
+her Wit, Beauty, and the Charms of her Person. Tho' she is the Mother of a
+numerous Family, she may still be reckoned among the Beauties of the
+Court; and 'tis certain, that when the Duchess is with the Princesses her
+Daughters, she seems rather to be their Sister than the Mother. This
+Princess is immensely rich, those who manage her Affairs having acquir'd
+a vast Estate in the contagious Actions of the _Missisippi_. She lives
+with very great Magnificence, and has lately caus'd a Palace to be built,
+which may be rank'd with the finest Structures in _Europe_. Her most
+Serene Highness is often at _Chantilly_ with the Duke her Husband, but the
+rest of her Time she divides betwixt the Court and City.
+
+The Princess of _Conti_ the second Dowager, the Princesses of _Charolois_,
+_Clermont_ and _Sens_, are her Daughters, and form one of the most
+beautiful Families that ever was. 'Tis pity that Princesses so beautiful
+and accomplish'd are not well match'd, but their Greatness is a Bar to
+their Settlement in Marriage; besides, this Century has been more prolific
+every-where in Princesses than in Princes. The Princess of _Conti_, who
+has some Thoughts of a Wife for the Prince her Son, has just bought the
+fine House which was built by the Count _de Belle-Isle_, out of the vast
+Sums which he got by _Missisippi_ Stock; there she proposes to end her
+Days, and she already appears but seldom at Court, which indeed the
+Trouble of Dressing hinders a great many Princesses and Ladies from
+frequenting. The Princess of _Conti_ was very young when she married, and
+has had two Sons; but there's only one of them living, whom in his
+Father's Life-time was styl'd the Count _d'Alais_, and is now the Prince
+of _Conti_[51].
+
+As for Mademoiselle _de Charolois_, all the Charms imaginable are united
+in her Person: She has a noble Aspect, a very lively sparkling Wit, and of
+all the Duchess's Daughters she is the most like her Mother, and has the
+most sprightly Ideas. During the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, when
+Money was become extraordinary scarce, Mademoiselle _de Charolois_
+appear'd at the Royal Palace with two _Lewis d'Ors_ in her Ears for
+Pendants; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ asking her the Meaning of that
+new Fashion, she made him Answer, that she found _Lewis d'Ors_ scarcer
+than Diamonds, and that therefore she wore them as such. Mademoiselle _de
+Charolois_ lives in the little H�tel _de Bourbon_, which formerly belong'd
+to _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ the Palatine, the Widow of _Henry Julius_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conde_, Grandmother to the Princes and Princesses of
+the _Conde_ Family. This Princess has a Family here independent on Madame
+the Duchess (of _Bourbon_); but she generally follows the Court, and as
+she is very fond of Hunting, and rides well, she makes one at all the
+King's Matches.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Clermont_ is not only very beautiful, but has an Air of
+Quality, good Nature and Modesty, which distinguishes her from all the
+Grandees of the Court. Calumny, which does not always favour the Royal
+Blood here, could never shed its Venom upon this Princess, and the whole
+Court ever admir'd her for her Sobriety and Virtue. She is Superintendante
+of the Queen's Houshold, and went in this Quality with the Ladies of
+Honour to meet her Majesty at _Strasbourg_.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Sens_, with her Beauty, is both graceful and modest: She
+was brought up under her Grandmother the Princess; and after her Decease,
+the Duchess of _Brunswic_, her Great Aunt, Mother to the Empress _Amelia_,
+who spent her latter Years in _France_, had the Care of her Education, and
+form'd her one of the most amiable Princesses upon the Earth.
+
+The _Conti_ Family, which is the third Branch of the Princes of the Blood,
+consists at this time of two Dowager Ladies, a young Prince, and a
+Princess, call'd Mademoiselle _de la Roche-sur-yon_. The Princess of
+_Conti_, the first Dowager Lady, is the legitimated Daughter of King
+_Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_: This Princess is celebrated
+for her Beauty, Wit, and noble Air, which she still retains: She happen'd
+to be a Widow when she was very young. Some say that the King of _Morocco_
+demanded her in Marriage, but I have been assur'd by many People, that
+'tis a mere Fiction. Be this as it will, such a Match was not practicable;
+for tho' Religion had been altogether out of the Question, King _Lewis_
+XIV. would never have sacrific'd a Daughter so dear to him, and one who
+was the Ornament of his Court, to a _Marabou_[52]. The Princess of
+_Conti_, since the Death of her Brother the Dauphin, has not appear'd in
+public, and only visits the King and Queen privately in their Majesties
+Closet. Her Occupations are Works of Piety and Charity, and her Life is an
+Example of Virtue: She commonly resides in her H�tel at _Paris_, which is
+beautiful and magnificent, and formerly belong'd to the Marshal-Duke _de
+Lorges_.
+
+The legitimated Princes, Sons of _Lewis_ XIV. are the Duke _de Maine_, and
+the Count _de Tholouse_. The former is Grand Master of the Ordnance,
+Colonel-General of the _Swiss_ and _Grisons_, and Governor of _Guienne_:
+He married _Louisa-Benedictina_ of _Bourbon-Cond�_, by whom he has two
+Sons and a Daughter. The Duke _de Maine_ possesses the Sovereignty of
+_Dombes_, which the late Mademoiselle, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_,
+Son of _Henry_ IV. left him by Will. This Prince signaliz'd his Valour in
+his Youth: He has the Misfortune to halt, but he has a superior Genius,
+and is a Man of true Christian Piety. The late King distinguish'd him
+above all his Children, of which he gave an illustrious Proof, when he
+appointed him Superintendant of the Education of _Lewis_ XV. and when he
+made him a Sharer in the Authority of the Regency, together with the Duke
+of _Orleans_, whom he would have been glad to have intirely excluded from
+it, if his Royal Highness's Birth had not given him an absolute Title to
+it. Some Years before this, the said King, by a Declaration the most
+solemnly register'd that ever any was, had recognis'd the Ability of the
+Duke _de Maine_, the Count _de Tholouse_, and their Posterity, to succeed
+to the Crown on Failure of Issue by the lawful Princes. The Princes of the
+Blood, in Complaisance to _Lewis_ XIV. before whom every Knee was bow'd,
+did not oppose a Declaration so little for their Honour: But in the
+Beginning of _Lewis_ XVth's Reign they commenced a Suit upon it against
+the legitimated Princes. The Arret which call'd them to the Succession of
+the Crown was revok'd, and the Count _de Tholouse_ was the only one that
+retain'd for his Life the Honours that were annex'd to the Dignity of
+Prince of the Blood. The Duke _de Maine_ and his Children were depriv'd of
+these great Prerogatives, and reduc'd to the Rank of their Peerage. Some
+Years after, however, it pleas'd the King to restore those Honours to the
+Duke _de Maine_, and to his Sons the Prince of _Dombes_, and the Count
+_d'Eu_; but these Princes continue excluded from the Crown.
+
+I have already acquainted you how the Duke of _Bourbon_ depriv'd the Duke
+_de Maine_ of the Superintendance of _Lewis_ XVth's Education: But that
+was not the only Circumstance that mortified him; for at that Juncture the
+Point that seem'd to be solely in View, was to undo every thing that had
+been done by _Lewis_ XIV. And the Duke, together with his Employments and
+Honours, also lost his Liberty. He was accus'd of holding a Correspondence
+with the Prince _de Cellamare_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador, who endeavour'd
+to excite the _French_ to a Rebellion against the Regent, by promising
+them Assistance from the King his Master: Hereupon the Duke _de Maine_ was
+arrested, and committed Prisoner to _Dourlens_ in _Picardy_, where he was
+closely confin'd. They who are not the most zealous of this Prince's
+Friends, agree that he supported this Reverse of Fortune with an heroic
+Constancy. I heard it said by the People who were set to watch him, that
+they never saw him once deviate from that Serenity of Mind, and that good
+Nature which accompany all his Actions. But the Duchess of _Maine_ did not
+receive the News of his Disgrace with the same Tranquillity; for being
+born with all the high Spirit of the Great _Conde_ her Grandfather, she
+rav'd against the Regent, but especially against her Nephew the Duke, whom
+she look'd upon as the Author of her Misfortunes. They say moreover, that
+the Duke _de Maine_ himself was rattled by her before he was confin'd.
+'Twas on the Day that _Lewis_ XV. came to the Parlement to hold his first
+Bed of Justice, when the Duke _de Maine_ was turn'd out of that Share
+which the late King's last Will gave him in the Regency. As this Duke came
+home from the Parlement, he found his Wife in the utmost Impatience to
+know what had been done; of which when he had given her an exact Account,
+the Duchess could not bridle her Passion, but looking on her Husband with
+Indignation, she said, _I have nothing left then to possess, but the Shame
+of having married you!_ When she received Orders to quit to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ that Apartment which she had in the _Thuilleries_, while the
+Duke _de Maine_ was Superintendant of the King's Education; _Yes_, said
+she, _I will quit it with a Vengeance_, and at the same time order'd it to
+be stripp'd quite bare of Furniture; and for the more Haste she dash'd the
+Looking-glasses, China, and all Goods of that Sort in Pieces.
+Nevertheless, when she was apprehended, and during the Time that she was
+detain'd, she was not heard to utter a Complaint or a Murmur; but
+supported her Disgrace with that Magnanimity for which she is admir'd, a
+Quality which elevates her so far above other Women, and sets her on a Par
+with the greatest Men.
+
+The Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ are often at _Seaux_, a fine House but a
+little Distance from _Paris_, on the high Road to _Orleans_, built by
+_John Baptist Colbert_. Here they have always a gay Court. This Duchess is
+so much in Love with the Arts and Sciences, that all Men of Letters look
+on her as their Patroness; and there are few Poetical Compositions which
+are not first presented to her. The last Time I paid my Court to her, the
+following Piece, compos'd of no more than two Rhymes, was read there, and
+so highly applauded, that I herewith send you a Copy of it[53].
+
+The Prince of _Dombes_, the Duke of _Maine's_ eldest Son, is a tall
+handsome well set Gentleman, and has the Reversion of his Father's
+Offices. Whether the Count _d'Eu_ has any Employments, I know not. Both
+these Princes are commonly at Court. Mademoiselle _du Maine_ is a very
+amiable Princess, whose Education has been fully answerable to her Birth,
+and who, by her Manners and Politeness, approves herself the worthy
+Daughter of her Mother.
+
+The Count _de Tholouse_, great Admiral of _France_, is the second Son of
+King _Lewis_ XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_. In the last War he commanded
+the Naval Army of _France_. He is one of the handsomest and comeliest
+Lords at Court. He is noble and magnificent in every thing that he does,
+and they say, he is generous. He is very polite, and has always been as
+much esteem'd for his Merit, as for his Rank of a legitimated Prince,
+which he has preserved, tho' his Brother was divested of it. It was
+believed for a long time, that this Prince would not marry, and that his
+great Estate would fall to the Children of the Duke _de Maine_; but he
+married some Years ago, _Maria Victoria_ of _Noailles_, Widow of the
+Marquis _de Gondrin_, Son to the Duke _d'Antin_, by whom he had a Son, who
+is now the Duke _d'Epernon_. The Count _de Tholouse_ has had a Son by her
+also, who is called the Duke[54]_de Ponthievre_; by which Title, the Count
+has the Rank of a Peer in Parliament. This Prince, since his Marriage, has
+commonly resided at _Rambouillet_, where the King frequently makes Parties
+for Hunting. His Majesty shews a very great Regard for the Countess of
+_Tholouse_, which gives her Authority to talk to his Majesty with a great
+deal of Freedom. The _French_ say, she was the Occasion of the Duke of
+_Bourbon_'s being put out of the Ministry. 'Tis certain, however, that the
+King was at _Rambouillet_, when the Duke _de Charost_ went and told the
+Duke, That it was his Majesty's Pleasure, that he should quit the Station
+of Prime Minister. The Duke being at _Versailles_ when he receiv'd the
+unwelcome News, they say, he desired to speak with the King and Queen; but
+that the Duke _de Charost_ told him, he had Orders for his Removal to
+_Chantilly_. His most Serene Highness obey'd, and did not appear to be
+afflicted for the Loss of his Authority, so much as for the falling-off of
+his Friends and Creatures. The Marchioness _de Prie_, Lady of the
+Bed-chamber to the Queen, whom he honoured with a very singular Esteem,
+received Orders to leave the Court, and to retire to _Normandy_; where,
+during her being in Favour, she had purchased a considerable Estate. The
+Brothers of the Name of _Paris_, those Objects of the Public Odium, were
+divested of their Authority. M. _de Blanc_ came again into the Ministry:
+M. _de Belle-Isle_ regain'd his Liberty, and obtained the Command of the
+Troops of the Government of _Metz_, and the three Bishopricks. The
+Marchioness _de Prie_ had the Mortification to see her Employment of Lady
+of the Bed-chamber fill'd up by the Daughter of M. _le Blanc_, to whom she
+was a declared Enemy, and whom she had endeavoured to ruin. This Lady was
+not able to support herself long under her Disgrace; for having been used
+to bear a Sway, she could not reconcile herself to Retirement; but
+languished for a while, and at length died of a Colic, which gave her
+horrid Pains. She was not much regretted, because she had made few
+Friends; Ambition and Self-Interest had taken intire hold of her. She
+thought her Disgrace unsufferable, and the little Reflection she made upon
+the Revolution of Fortune, rendered hers but the more intolerable. I will
+hereafter give you an Account of the Cardinal _de Fleury_, and of the
+Persons now of the First Rank at Court; but at present my Pen is ready to
+drop out of my Fingers; for 'tis One o'Clock in the Morning, and if I
+write any more, I shall but give you my Dreams. Therefore I am, with all
+the Esteem, possible, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Versailles, May 1, 1732._
+
+In my last Letter I mention'd the Princes and Princesses of the Blood
+Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this
+Court, who are in the most exalted Stations.
+
+The Cardinal _de Fleury_, by his Dignity of Cardinal, and much more by his
+Character, as the Depositary of the Royal Authority, has the first Rank in
+the State next to the Princes of the Blood. This Prelate, tho' far
+advanced in Years, is brisk and lively to Admiration. His Stature is
+somewhat above the middle Size; he has a happy Physiognomy, to which
+Fortune has not given the Lye; and he is humble, good-natur'd and civil.
+You know that he was Bishop of _Frejus_. He resign'd that See to excuse
+himself from the Pastoral Charge of Souls, when the late King _Lewis_ XIV.
+nominated him, by his Last Will, Preceptor to the young _Dauphin_, now
+King _Lewis_ XV. This was almost the only Article of _Lewis_ the Grand's
+Will, which the Regent put in Execution. M. _de Frejus_ won the Heart of
+the young Monarch to such a Degree, that the Prince was intirely wrapp'd
+up in him; and his Affection for him has increas'd so much ever since,
+that now it may be literally said, that the Cardinal _de Fleury_ is the
+Depositary, or Trustee, of the Royal Authority. The Regent, a Prince of
+Penetration, if ever there was one, quickly perceived what an Ascendant M.
+_de Frejus_ had over the young Monarch; and being apprehensive of what
+might be the Consequences of it, he was continually contriving how to
+remove the Prelate from Court. With this View he offered him the
+Archbishoprick of _Rheims_, which was vacant by the Death of the Cardinal
+_de Mailly_; but M. _de Fleury_, who resigned the Bishoprick of _Frejus_,
+that he might not have the Charge of Souls, was so far from accepting one
+of the greatest Archbishopricks in the Kingdom, that he absolutely refused
+it. The Duke of _Orleans_, who was intent upon carrying his Point, offered
+to make him a Cardinal; for he hoped, that the Pope's ill State of Health
+would quickly bring on a Conclave; and that then M. _de Frejus_ would be
+obliged to go to _Rome_, where he thought he shou'd be able to continue
+him, on Pretence of managing the King's Affairs there; and that then the
+young Monarch's Fondness to see his Favourite would by that Means
+insensibly be weaned. But M. _de Frejus_ saw the Hook that was hid under
+this Bait. The red Hat did not dazzle his Eyes; and he knew moreover, that
+if he kept close to the King's Person, he could be sure of a Hat whenever
+he pleased. However, he thank'd the Duke of _Orleans_, and told him, he
+had no such ambitious Views, and that he preferred his Station in the
+King's Council, before all the Dignities, to which, in his Goodness, he
+had Thoughts of promoting him. The Duke of _Orleans_, however chagrin'd at
+the Prelate's Moderation, was forc'd to keep it to himself; he was afraid
+to make use of his Authority; for it was not long before this, that he
+banish'd the Marshal _de Villeroy_ to _Lyons_, at which the People
+grumbled; and to put away the Preceptor too, would have rais'd a Clamour
+against him, throughout the whole Kingdom. M. _de Frejus_ continued at
+Court as a Member of the Privy Council, and there was not a Courtier who
+gave more constant Attendance; and in this Station he supported the
+Ministry of the Cardinal _du Bois_, the Duke of _Orleans_, and the Duke of
+_Bourbon_; but he confin'd himself all the while within the Bounds of his
+Office. At the King's Marriage, he accepted of that of Great Almoner to
+the Queen, and by that Means his Attachment to the Court became more
+strict. When the Duke _de Bourbon_ was disgrac'd, the King offered the
+Place of Prime Minister to M. _de Frejus_, who, indeed, accepted of that
+eminent Post; but 'twas on Condition, that he should not be compelled to
+take the Title, and that he might always lay an Account of every Thing
+before the King.
+
+The Bishop of _Frejus_ being thus become Master of the Government, it was
+but reasonable that he should be adorned with the Purple, to give the more
+Lustre to his Character. Mean time _France_, had no Hat to demand, for the
+Number of her Cardinals was completed. The Emperor having a Pretension at
+that Time to a Hat, the King desired him to yield it to him for his First
+Minister; and the Emperor, overjoy'd that he could oblige the King, and
+that he could make the Minister some sort of Amends for his pacific
+Sentiments, gave him his Nomination accordingly. Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+sent the Cap to the Bishop, who then assumed the Title of Cardinal _de
+Fleury_; and with this Title he now governs the State, not with the
+general Applause of the _French_, because the Thing is impossible; but at
+least, with the Approbation of his King, of Foreigners, and indeed, of
+every Man in the Kingdom, who is thoroughly inform'd of the State of
+_France_ in particular, and of _Europe_ in general. Yet those who have the
+least Affection for the Cardinal, must acknowledge his Disinterestedness
+and Integrity; for the worst Enemy he has, cannot accuse him of amassing
+Riches, or of coveting to aggrandize his Family; in which respect he is,
+perhaps, negligent to a Fault, his Kindred having the Character of Persons
+of Worth.
+
+The Cardinal's Expences are as much circumscrib'd as his Dignity will
+admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no
+doubt, 'tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so
+vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to
+Business, And I don't think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in
+his Diversions.
+
+The _French_ (I speak of those who hope to make their Fortune by the
+Sword) find fault with his Temper as too pacific. _We are despis'd_, (say
+they) _our Neighbours make Treaties and Alliances without us, and +France+
+is no longer what she was in the Time of +Lewis+ XIV._
+
+I am not here proposing to make a Panegyric on the Cardinal, but I cannot
+help letting you see how weakly those People talk, who censure his Conduct
+as to Foreign Affairs. I don't pretend to enter into the Domestic Affairs
+of the Kingdom, tho' I am very well persuaded, that the Cardinal's
+Integrity, and his Zeal for the King, incline him to act to the best of
+his Power. I will only leave you to judge if his Inclination to Peace is
+blameable. When he came into the Ministry, he found the King's Coffers
+exhausted, and the Kingdom in a Condition, which requir'd Rest rather than
+a War, the Event of which is always uncertain. But after all, Who is there
+to go to War with? What shall be the Pretence? Who is it that insults
+_France_? Or, Who desires any thing more of her than her Friendship? Have
+not the Treaties of _Utrecht_, and _Baden_, and all the Treaties made
+since, during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, settled the Interests
+of _Europe_? Did not _England_ earnestly court the Alliance of _France_?
+Has the Emperor seem'd less desirous of it? Nay, Did not _Spain_ itself,
+forgetting the sending back of the _Infanta_, enter into her former
+Engagements with this Crown, as soon as the Cardinal _de Fleury_ was
+vested with the Ministry? In what respect then, can the _French_ think
+themselves despis'd by their Neighbours? I will take upon me to prove, on
+the contrary, that _Lewis_ XV. during the Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry,
+instead of being neglected, has been as much courted by the Foreign
+Powers, as _Lewis_ XIV. was in all that Glory which procured him the Title
+of _Louis le Grand_. When the Clamour was for abolishing the _Ostend_
+Company, How did _England_ and _Holland_ bestir themselves to make the
+King a Party in their Quarrel? What did not the Emperor do to engage him
+in his Interest? Every thing was uncertain, as long as _France_ remained
+undetermined. The _English_ and the _Dutch_ prepared to attack the
+Emperor, and the latter made ready for his Defence. The Cardinal having
+got the King to declare for the Maritime Powers, the Emperor abolish'd the
+_Ostend_ Company immediately. What more could have been obtained by a War?
+
+When the Talk was, of introducing the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_,
+what Measures, what Solicitations were not employ'd by the Powers
+concerned, either to bring over _Lewis_ XV. to their Party, or to oblige
+him to a Neutrality? Count _Sinzendorff's_ coming from _Vienna_ to
+_Versailles_, on purpose to treat for the Tranquillity of _Italy_, seems
+to me a Proof, that the Emperor does not neglect _France_ to such a
+Degree as the Uneasy and Disaffected would fain have it believed. In good
+Truth, if _France_ had not threatened to attack the Emperor, in case he
+did not consent to the Introduction of the _Infante_ into _Tuscany_, would
+his Imperial Majesty have been influenced by the bare Menaces of _Spain_?
+That Monarch is too well established in _Italy_, to fear any thing from
+that Crown; and if Equity and Justice did not always accompany his
+Actions, it would have been easy for him to have taken Possession of
+_Tuscany_; and the _Spaniards_, who have never been able to retake
+_Gibraltar_, and who, perhaps, would never have reduced _Barcelona_
+without the Assistance of the _French_, would have found it a very
+difficult Matter to have turned them out of it. The Cardinal _de Fleury_
+having persuaded the King to declare in Favour of the _Infante_, he
+threatens to join the _English_ and _Spaniards_; and the Emperor seeing
+all _Europe_ against him, but especially _France_, which is capable of
+striking the hardest Blows, yields to the Times, and grants every thing
+that is desired of him. Can there be any thing more to the Honour of the
+Cardinal? And, Why should a War be undertaken, if Menaces alone are
+sufficient to obtain what is desired?
+
+But, say the Disaffected, we purchase Peace of all the World by our Money.
+The Cardinal is not chargeable with lavishing the King's Money. I know not
+that he gives away any, unless it be the Subsidies granted to the Crowns
+of _Denmark_ and _Sweden_. If that be purchasing a Peace, _Lewis_ XIV. and
+the Regent after him, were much more lavish of the Royal Treasure, and
+perhaps with less Profit; and it would be easy to demonstrate, that in
+order to dislodge the _Spaniards_ from _Sicily_, the Regent sent more
+Money into _Germany_ and _England_, in one Month, than the Cardinal gives
+away in a Year to the Northern Crowns; tho' one of 'em has for Time out of
+Mind been used to draw Subsidies from _France_. Yet all this while, the
+Regent was not accused of purchasing a Peace of his Neighbours; because,
+in order to make it necessary to buy a Peace, some Prince or other must
+have threatened him with a War. But 'tis certain, that no Power did then,
+or does now, think of attacking _France_. Let her continue peaceable, and
+there we will leave her.
+
+But on the other hand, tho' it were not justifiable for the Cardinal to
+entertain pacific Sentiments, and tho' he were to indulge the Passion of
+the _French_, I would fain know of those who are so hot for a War, Whether
+they are well assured it would have a happy Issue? And, Whether, when a
+War is once begun, it would be in their Power to put an End to it,
+whenever they thought it consistent with their Affairs? Nay, I will
+suppose that every thing should happen as they would wish, and that the
+War should prove a fortunate one; What Acquisition can _France_ make,
+which would not be more to her Expence than her Advantage? For the farther
+she extends her Conquests, the more Enemies she will have of Course, and
+the more Troops she will be oblig'd to maintain. The Frontiers of the
+Kingdom are secured. Are a few more Towns, nay, an intire Province, a
+sufficient Temptation for a King of _France_? And are they an Equivalent
+for the Blood and Treasure that must be expended to acquire them? No,
+surely, the Cardinal is perfectly in the right, and I must beg the
+_Frenchmen's_ Pardon, when I tell 'em, they know not what they would be
+at. How desirous were they of the late Peace? And they have scarce tasted
+the Fruits of it, but they now want a War. If the Cardinal should enter
+into a War, and the Consequences of it should prove fatal, Would they not
+throw the Blame upon him? They would say for the Purpose, that it was
+inconsistent with a Priest to make War. For my Part, I think the Cardinal
+_de Fleury_ has substantial Reasons for doing what he does. The _French_
+have been so long accustomed to the turbulent Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. which
+was interspersed throughout with great Events, that they know not how to
+reconcile themselves to one that is more placid and calm; but 'tis to be
+hoped, they will ere long. Whatever they do, the Cardinal seems to be very
+easy, let them say what they will of him. As he knows that he has nothing
+to reproach himself with, and that he has always preferred the Good of the
+Public to his own private Interest, he is afraid of no Revolution in his
+Fortune. He is sensible that Innocence always holds up its Head, and that
+real Merit is above the Reach of Envy and Malice.
+
+M. _Daguesseau_ the Chancellor of _France_, is the Chief Magistrate of the
+Kingdom, and his Office is attended with such great Prerogatives, that the
+King cannot take it from him. The Person whom he succeeded in this eminent
+Dignity, was M. _Voisin_, who being Secretary of War, was made Chancellor
+by _Lewis_ XIV. upon M. _de Pontchartrain_'s resigning that Post, to
+devote the Residue of his Life to God in Retirement. M. _Voisin_ dying
+suddenly in the Beginning of the Duke of _Orlean_'s Regency, M.
+_Daguesseau_, then Attorney-General, was, by his Royal Highness, appointed
+Chancellor in his Room. All _France_ applauded this Choice. Every body was
+so satisfied of this Magistrate's Candour and Integrity, that nobody
+doubted he would assert Justice and Equity; and in short, he perfectly
+answered the Expectations of the Public. But as true Merit, is always the
+most envied, a Cabal was soon formed against his Integrity. M.
+_Daguesseau_ refused to put the Seal to certain Edicts, which he thought
+contrary to the Welfare of the Government; at which the Duke of _Orleans_
+was so incensed, that he banished the Chancellor to _Frene_, a fine Seat
+belonging to that Minister near _Meaux_; and the Seals were given to M.
+_d'Argenson_, Lieutenant of the Police, with the Title of Keeper of the
+Seals, which was formerly no more than a bare Commission; but the Regent
+was then for erecting it into an Office. The Parliament of _Paris_
+exclaimed very much against this Innovation, but the Regent, after all,
+was obey'd. Upon the Death of M. _d'Argenson_, the Chancellor was
+recall'd, and the Seals restor'd to[55]him; but he held them not long; for
+the Regent, who was resolved to have no Ministers but such as knew how to
+obey, disgraced the Chancellor a second time for opposing his Will, and
+gave the Seals to M. _d'Armenonville_. The latter dying during the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry, the Seals were given to M. _de
+Chauvelin_, who, besides the Title of Keeper of the Seals, has also the
+Office of Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The
+Chancellor, who has been recalled for some time, assists at the Council;
+but his Office has been depriv'd of its greatest Lustre, since the Seals
+have been separated from it.
+
+M. _Chauvelin_, Keeper of the Seals, Minister and Secretary of[56]State
+for Foreign Affairs, owes his Advancement to the Cardinal _de Fleury_,
+who seems to confide in him intirely. This Minister is reckon'd very
+laborious, good-natur'd and civil. The Foreign Ministers are so taken with
+him, that they think no more of Messieurs _de Torcy_ and _de Morville_.
+The former was of the _Colbert_ Family, Secretary of Foreign Affairs under
+_Lewis_ XIV. a Man, as one may say, born for the Ministry, and whose great
+and good Services have been very much cry'd-up, but more rewarded by the
+Applauses of _Europe_, than by Favours from the Court. The other was the
+Son of the late Keeper of the Seals, _d'Armenonville_, and had acquir'd a
+great Reputation in his Embassies to _Holland_, and the Congress of
+_Cambray_, when he desired Leave to[57] retire, and was succeeded by M.
+_Chauvelin_.
+
+The Count _de Maurepas_ is Grandson to the Chancellor _de Pontchartrain_,
+and Son to the Count _de Pontchartrain_, Secretary for the Maritime
+Affairs in the Reign of King _Lewis_ XIV. He enter'd very young into the
+Ministry, and has so behav'd as to gain Friends and Dependants. I have not
+heard one Man give him an ill Word, while every body speaks well of him;
+but as for his Secretaries, or chief Clerks, the Seafaring People often
+exclaim against the Airs of Importance which some of those Scribes put on,
+who watch all Opportunities to impose on the Honesty of the Minister, in
+Favour of their Creatures, to the Prejudice of other Subjects, who have
+more Merit.
+
+The Count _de S. Florentin_ is of the Family of _Phelypeaux_, as is also
+the Count _de Maurepas_, who married his Sister. He is the Son of M. _de
+la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State; and had the Reversion of his Father's
+Office granted him by the Regent, when he was scarce twenty Years of Age.
+M. _de la Vrilliere_ dying not long before the King's Marriage, M. _de S.
+Florentin_ entered on his Office. He has that Province which relates to
+Affairs Ecclesiastical. He married, some Years ago, the Daughter of the
+late Count _de Platen_, Great Chamberlain, and Hereditary Post-Master of
+_Hanover_; but neither of 'em knew one another before the Match was made.
+Mademoiselle _de Platen_ was a _Lutheran_, but is turn'd _Catholic_. The
+Lady, her Mother, for Whom I had as profound a Veneration as for any Woman
+in the World, and whose Memory I still revere, brought her into _France_.
+M. _de S. Florentin_ has Reason to be pleas'd with the Choice he has made:
+For his Lady is not only very charming, but has noble Sentiments, and a
+Virtue which Calumny itself durst not asperse. When she married M. _de S.
+Florentin_, King _George_ I. of _Great Britain_ settled a Pension upon her
+of forty thousand Livres, for forty-five Years; and King _George_ II. on
+his Accession to the Crown, was pleased to confirm the said Pension, upon
+that Lady's going to _London_ to solicit it, in Company with her
+Mother-in-law Madame _de la Vrilliere_, now Duchess of _Mazarine_.
+
+M. _d'Angervilliers_, formerly Intendant of _Alsace_, is Secretary of the
+War-Office, in which he succeeded M. _le Blanc_, who was the Secretary a
+second time, when he died at _Versailles_. The first time that he was
+Secretary, he was supplanted by M. _de Breteuil_, during the Ministry of
+the Duke _de Bourbon_; and he, in his Turn, supplanted M. _de Breteuil_,
+the Queen's Chancellor, in the Ministry of the Cardinal _de Fleury_.
+You see by this, that the War-Office has been several times chang'd
+in a few Years; but 'tis like to remain always in the Hands of M.
+_d'Angervilliers_, whose Application, Vigilance and Integrity, are very
+much cry'd-up by the Officers, and all that have to do with him. I gave
+you some Account of this Minister, when I wrote to you from _Strasbourg_,
+to which I have nothing to add.
+
+As the Secretary of War has been often chang'd of late Years, the
+Comptroller-General of the Finances has been much more so. From the Year
+1711, when I first came to _Paris_, to this Day, I have known seven
+Comptrollers General, and not one of 'em died in the Office: So that this
+Post may well be compared to that of the Grand _Vizier_, which is alike
+struggled for, and alike fatal to those who are invested with it.
+
+Of all the Men who have had that ticklish Employment of Comptroller-General
+in _France_, there is not one that has made a more shining Fortune, and a
+Fortune that sooner slipp'd from him, than _John Law_. This Man, of whom
+many People have wrote and talk'd without knowing him, and according to
+their Passions, was a _Scotsman_, born with a narrow Fortune, but strong
+Desires to inlarge it. He had travell'd through several Parts of _Europe_,
+and Gaming prov'd his chief Subsistence. He won considerable Sums in
+_Italy_, especially at _Genoa_; and there it was that he hatch'd all those
+Projects which he put in Execution in _France_. 'Tis true, that he did not
+come into this Kingdom, till he had offered his Services to _Victor
+Amadeus_, the King of _Sardinia_. This Prince told him, That his Dominions
+were too small for the Execution of so great a Design; but that _France_
+was a Theatre, where he might expect to make his Market, and thither he
+advised him to go. _If I know the Humour of the +French+_, added the King,
+_I am sure they will relish your Schemes_. _John Law_ took the Monarch's
+Advice, and shewed his Project to the Regent, who approved it; and the
+Projector soon found, that he had the Purses of the _French_ absolutely at
+his Command. As he was a Protestant, he made his Abjuration in the
+_Recollets_ Church at _Melun_, in the Diocese of _Sens_, in the Month of
+_December_ 1719, in the Hands of the Abb�[58]_Tancin_. In the Month of
+_January_ following, he was made Comptroller-General; but he quitted that
+Post in _June_; abruptly left _Paris_ on the thirteenth of _December_
+1720; and after rambling about for a while, not knowing where to fix, (for
+his own Country did not suit him) he died at _Munich_. The Generality of
+the _French_ accuse him of having exhausted _France_, and sent away
+immense Sums to Foreign Countries. How true this is, I know not, but 'tis
+certain, that _Law_, after his Disgrace, liv'd very meanly. His Widow and
+his Son, (Mr. _John Law_)[59] who are actually at _Utrecht_, make no very
+great Figure there, which very many People ascribe to Policy. But for my
+own Part, who think more freely, and don't see what could hinder Mrs.
+_Law_ and her Son from making a Display of their Riches, in the Country
+where they live; I can't help crediting what People, and such as were
+_John Law_'s Intimates, have assured me for a certain Truth, _viz._ That
+_Law_ being puff'd-up with his Fortune, and not thinking it would be so
+short-liv'd, had no Thought of securing it in Foreign Countries; and that
+if he had such a Purpose, he had not Time to send any Sums out of the
+Kingdom. He was oblig'd both by Necessity, and out of Policy, to make
+Purchases in _France_; and accordingly he made considerable Acquisitions;
+but they were no more than a pleasant Dream to him, and the Loss of them
+only made his Disgrace the greater Affliction. I am of their Opinion, who
+believe that _John Law_ was richer when he came to _France_, than he was
+three Months after he left it. This Copy of Verses was made upon him,
+which, perhaps, you will not be sorry to see[60].
+
+    The TITLE of it is, A COMMISSION of the OFFICE of
+    COMPTROLLER-GENERAL of the FINANCES, for Mr. JOHN LAW.
+
+      _De par le Dieu porte-marotte,
+      Nous G�n�ral de la Calotte,
+      Attendu que le R�giment
+      Est oblig� sensiblement
+      Au Sieur +Law+, de qui la Science
+      Et conduite dans la Finance
+      Nous a donn� maints Calotins,
+      En inventant les Bulletins,
+      Autrement dits Billets de Banque,
+      Pour servir au jeu de la Blanque,
+      Jeu non renouvell� des Grecs,
+      Comme le Fade jeu de l'Oye,
+      Mais imagin� tout expr�s
+      Pour exciter l'homme � la joye:
+      T�moin les Plaisans viremens,
+      Et continuels changemens,
+      Que l'on a vu dans le Royaume
+      De Quinquempoix & de Vend�me,
+      Et Principaut� de Soissons,
+      O� l'Achat & le Dividende_
+      _Causoient un Rumeur st grande,
+      Qu'on ne vit jamais tant de Rats
+      Obseder gens de tous �tats:
+      Mari, Femme, Gar�on & Fille!
+      Laquais, Servantes, la Famille!
+      En un mot, sans rien excepter,
+      Venoit jouer & blanqueter,
+      Et s'y portoit de telle sorte,
+      Qu'il falloit Gardes � la Porte
+      Pour renvoyer chacun chez soi,
+      Apr�s les trois coups de Beffroi.
+      L� de tous Pa�s & Provinces,
+      Marchands, Magistrats, Artisans,
+      Pr�lats, Guerriers & Courtisans,
+      Ducs & Pairs, & m�me des Princes,
+      Non du Pa�s, mais bien forains,
+      Accouroient comme des Essains,
+      Malgr� vent, gr�le, pluye & crotte,
+      Pour y jouer � la Marotte,
+      En beaux & bons deniers comptant,
+      Contre des Voleurs Calotines,
+      Dont la +France+ & terres voisines
+      Se pourront souvenir longtems._
+
+        _A ces Causes, vu l'Abondance
+      Des Calotins qui sont en +France+
+      De tous Rangs & de tous �tats,
+      Par le moyen du dit Sieur +Las+,
+      Nous lui consions nos Finances;
+      Voulons que sur ses Ordonnances
+      Nos fonds soient oeconomis�s,
+      Augment�s & r�alis�s;
+      Afin que selon son merite
+      Chacun ait part, grosse ou petite,
+      Dans nos immenses Revenus,
+      Tant de gros Fonds que de menus.
+      Or comme un pareil Ministere
+      Est sert �tendu dans sa Sphere,
+      Lui donnons pour pr�mier Commis,
+      +NOMPAR[61]+ qui des moins endormis
+      Connoit la manoeuvre diverse
+      De la Finance & du Commerce.
+      Lui donnons pour Profits & Droit,
+      Pensions, Gages & Salaries,
+      Le quart de tous les Angles droits,
+      Que couperont les Commissaires
+      Au papier qui sera vis�,
+      Et duquel en homme avis�
+      Il a si bien grossi le nombre,
+      Que la +France+ y seroit � l'ombre,
+      Si tous le Billets rassembl�s,
+      Et les uns aux autres coll�s,
+      On en pouvoit saire une Tente.
+      Au surplus de ladite Rente,
+      Lui donnons notre grand Cordon,
+      Passant de la droite � la gauche,
+      Ainsi qu'un l�gere �bauche
+      De sa droiture, dont le fond
+      Va si loin que [62]+Terrasson+ m�me,
+      Grand calculateur du Syst�me,
+      Ne pourroit pas le mesurer.
+      En outre, pour mieux honorer
+      Le chef de ce grand Personnage,
+      Qui fit bouquer tout homme sage,
+      Et soi disant docte & profond,
+      Lui donnons Calotte de plomb,
+      De la haute et pr�miere classe;
+      Et pour surcroit de telle grace,
+      Joignons � ces [63]Coqs dont la voix
+      Chanta la Justice au Fran�ois,
+      Papillons, Rats & Girouettes,_
+      _Hannetons Grelots, & Sonnettes.
+      En m�moirs d'un si beau chant,
+      Qu'au sortir de +France+ on publie
+      Q� il va chanter en +Italie+,
+      O� sans doute il aura beau champ
+      Pour exercer son grand G�nie,
+      Et sa connoissance infinie
+      Dans l'art de d�cupler les sonds
+      Par Billets payables � vue,
+      Desquels aujourd'hui nous voyons
+      En +France+ une si bonne Issue.
+      Ordonnons � tous les Pa�s
+      De notre vaste D�pendance,
+      De l'ecouter dans ses avis,
+      Sur-tout dans l'art de la Finance;
+      Art qu'il possede eminemment.
+      Fait au Conseil du R�giment[64]._
+
+'Tis certain, that never was any thing more splendid, than the short Reign
+of his Fortune. The _French_ perfectly idoliz'd, him, and even those who
+turned their Backs to his Altar, could not help admiring him as an
+extraordinary Man. The Nobility did not scruple to pay their Homage to
+him; and I have seen Dukes and Peers of _France_ waiting in his
+Antichamber, like the meanest Subjects. Towards the Close, there was no
+coming to the Speech of him without Money. The _Swiss_ must be feed for
+Entrance at his Gate, the _Lacqueys_ for Admittance into his Antichamber,
+and the _Valets de Chambre_ for the Privilege of Access to his
+Presence-Chamber or Closet. The Audiences too were very short, and People
+were quickly dismissed with very little Merchandise for a great deal of
+Money. Mean time he was civil, and his Fortune did not seem to have puff'd
+him up. He was a fine handsome Man, of a fair Complexion, as the _English_
+generally are, and had a very noble Port. Nobody understood _Algebra_
+better than he did, and, let his Enemies say what they please, his System
+was good in itself, and might have been beneficial to _France_, if it had
+been punctually follow'd.
+
+The Scheme was calculated for keeping two Thirds more of Species in the
+Kingdom, than of Bills, in which Case there would always have been Money
+enough to have paid off those Bills. But this did not satisfy the Avarice
+of the Under-strappers; and in 1720, when the Bank Bills were put down,
+there were two Thirds of Bills in the Kingdom, to one Third of Money,
+_viz._ five hundred Millions of Money, to a thousand Millions in Bills;
+and M. _d'Argenson_, the Protector of the four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_, prevailed on the Regent to circulate 1760 Millions of
+extraordinary Bills not registered, with which People bought and sold
+Shares; and during this Commerce, the Bills were realiz'd by the Brokers
+into Species; insomuch that, according to a Computation then made by
+_Bar�me_, they say, that at the Time of the total Suppression of the
+Bills, which was in _October_ 1720, there were more Livres _Tournois_ in
+the famous Bank of _Missisippi_, than there had been Minutes since the
+Creation of the World. All this Variety of Bills had so stupified the
+_Parisians_, and they gave them such intire Credit, that before the Arret
+of the fifteenth of _May_ 1720, which sunk the Bills from ten _per Cent.
+per Mensem_ to half their Value, a _Parisian_ did not care to be paid in
+Specie; for he thought Bills were far better, not only because they were
+not liable to be lower'd, but because they were more ready to count, and
+especially to carry. A Man that had Millions in his Pocket did not
+perceive the Weight of 'em, whereas but one hundred _Louis-d'ors_ are too
+heavy; and, how was it possible for a Man to carry them in his Pocket
+without being tir'd? While Peoples Fortunes were in Paper, I could boast
+of having had a Letter-case once in my Hands, in which there were Notes to
+the Value of thirty-two Millions. If they had been my own, I question
+whether I should have let them lie in Bank Bills, with the Hazard of
+losing half the Value. What follows, is a short, but curious Account of
+this Scheme[65].
+
+_Lewis_ XIV. a little before he died, was two thousand two hundred
+Millions in Debt: But by the Reduction of the Principal and Interest of
+the Revenues of the Town-House, (of _Paris_) by strikeing off two fifths
+upon all Contracts, and by reducing Interest to four _per Cent._ the Debts
+of the State were reduced to one thousand eight hundred Millions; which
+was the very Sum that was owing from the Crown, when _Lewis_ XV. came to
+it. The Debts of the Government were afterwards reduced to one thousand
+four hundred Millions, by sinking a Quarter, a half and three-fourths upon
+the State Bills, as well as all other Debts owing by the King, as also on
+Pensions, and by the Recovery of great Sums thro' the Chamber of Justice.
+Mr. _Law_ thought he should be able to extinguish all the Debts, by a
+Scheme which he form'd upon the Profits that were made by _Missisippi_.
+For this Purpose he erected a Bank, and caused as many Shares to be
+created, as amounted to one hundred and fifty Millions, at one hundred
+Livres each, payable in State Bills, which, to the Advantage of the
+Buyers, rose to no less than one thousand. After this, he created more
+Actions, to the Value of one hundred and five Millions, payable in Money
+or Effects, at one thousand _per Cent._ which, with the former one hundred
+and fifty Millions, produced one thousand six hundred and fifty Millions;
+a Sum more than sufficient to cancel all the King's Debts. Besides this,
+Mr. _Law_ created Bank Bills for one thousand two hundred Millions, of
+which he received the Value, either in Money or Effects. He raised the
+Money higher, upon which there were at least three hundred Millions
+Profit, that are not brought to the Accompt. He compelled all People to
+carry their Money to the Bank, by certain Arrets, which injoin'd People at
+first, to keep no more than one hundred Livres by them, and afterwards but
+five hundred. So that in eight Months Management, he augmented the old
+Debts of the State, that were one thousand four hundred Millions, to one
+thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; which, added to the one thousand
+two hundred Millions of the Bank, rise to two thousand eight hundred and
+fifty Millions, due at this Time from the King. If to this we add the
+_Pr�mium_ to which the Actions rose, which at one thousand eight hundred
+among private People, make five thousand four hundred Millions more; to
+which the one thousand two hundred Millions in Bank Bills must be added;
+it will appear that the Public is charg'd with six thousand six hundred
+Millions in Paper; and for the paying off of that Sum, there will be but
+five hundred Millions in the Kingdom in Specie, when they are reduced to
+their intrinsic Value. The King having received one thousand six hundred
+and five Millions in Effects, of which he owed the greatest Part, and
+Actions or Shares being taken instead thereof, which Actions, by secret
+Management, rose to five thousand four hundred Millions among the
+Subjects, Mr. _Law_ thereby gave the People the Opportunity of putting
+three thousand seven hundred and five Millions in their Pockets.
+
+    An ACCOUNT of the BANK BILLS that subsisted, and of those that
+    were burnt.
+
+  Bills engraved                  669000000
+  Bills printed                  1927400000
+                                 ----------
+                    _Viz._
+
+  Bills of 10000 Livres          1134000000
+            1000                 1123200000
+             100                  299200000
+              10                   40000000
+                                 ----------
+                           Total 2596400000
+
+  Bills burnt of 10000 Livres     562500000
+                  1000            138528000
+                   100              6026000
+                    10               273460
+                                 ----------
+                            Total 707327460
+
+  There then remained therefore}
+    in Trade                   } 1989072540
+
+The Fortunes made at _Paris_, during this _Missisippi_ Contagion, are so
+extraordinary, that unless one had seen it, 'twere impossible to believe
+it; and, what is still more unaccountable, the greatest were rais'd by
+mere Scoundrels; for except a few of the Court Lords and Ladies, it look'd
+as if Fortune had resolved to put the Gentry into Almshouses, for the Sake
+of inriching a Parcel of Bankrupts, Lacqueys, Beggars, and other of the
+Mobility[66]. And 'tis my real Opinion, that if God had not interpos'd,
+Footmen would at length have been the Masters, and the Masters the
+Footmen. The Handicraftsmen laid by their Work; there was nothing talked
+of but Actions, and every Place echoed with _Missisippi_ and
+_Quinquempoix_, which is the Street where all that hopeful Trade was
+carried on.
+
+These lucky _Missisippians_ have nevertheless seen the Turn of Fortune's
+Wheel. The Generality of those who had not the Precaution to send their
+Money out of the Kingdom, were called to Accompt, and obliged to disgorge
+a Part of their Gains. Whether the King got much by this Scrutiny, I know
+not; but I believe it had the same Fate as the Chamber of Justice,
+established in 1716, in the _Augustins_ Convent at _Paris_, for the
+Prosecution of People employ'd in the Finances. This Tribunal, at the Head
+of which was M. _de Portail_, now the first President, had condemned
+several Tax Gatherers for an infinite Number of Misdemeanors committed in
+the King's Finances. Some were punished as they justly deserved. A great
+many were tax'd in Proportion to the Declarations they were forced to make
+of their immense Wealth, which might have produc'd very considerable Sums
+for the Ease of the Government, at that Time plung'd over Head and Ears in
+Debt. But these Bloodsuckers of the People compounded for a Trifle of
+Expence, by a few Presents to a Lady, or to some Nobleman who had the
+Favour of the Regent. This was a Golden Shower, of which the least Part
+fell into the King's Coffers.
+
+I have made a terrible Digression. Mr. _Law_ carried me to _Missisippi_,
+which is a long Voyage, and a Country from whence a Man can't return
+whenever he has a Mind to it; but I am now come back to the Court. I have
+mentioned the Ministers to you, but they are not the only Persons that
+have a Seat in the Council. One of its Members is the Marshal _de
+Villars_, who being of all the _French_ Generals, the Man that made the
+most shining Figure during the last War, I think myself oblig'd to give
+you a more particular Account of him.
+
+_Francis Hector_, Duke _de Villars_, Marshal of _France_, and Dean of the
+Marshals, is a Gentleman of a good Family, his Father having been a
+Commander of the King's Orders. His Stature is above the middle Size, and
+he has the Port and Step of a Nobleman. He has an agreeable winning
+Countenance, and hazel Eyes, which are lively and sparkling. He is a Man
+of Penetration, crafty, complaisant, and capable of great Affairs. He
+talks a great deal; but what he says is to the Purpose. He is laborious,
+attach'd to, and indefatigable in Business, a courageous good Soldier, and
+a successful General. Satire charges him with Avarice, as it did the Duke
+of _Marlborough_ his Rival: He is, withal, accused of being too haughty,
+and too conceited of his Actions, and his Merits. This, indeed, may be
+true enough; for I myself was Witness to a Conversation, in which he
+discovered it sufficiently plain. 'Twas the Winter after the Battle of
+_Denain_, when the Marshall being at Dinner with the late[67]M.
+_d'Armagnac_, Great Master of the Horse, where I was likewise a Guest; he
+talked a great deal about his Exploits, to which I listened so
+attentively, that he took Notice of it; and being unknown to him, he
+whispered the Master of the Horse in the Ear, to know who I was; and when
+the Marshal was told that I was a _German_, he paid me a good deal of
+Respect. Then resuming his Discourse, and addressing it to me, he talked
+of his Victory at _Denain_, with an Air of mighty Self-Applause. _But
+why_, said he, _did your People drown themselves? I am merciful, I would
+have given them Quarter_; _and they ought surely to have asked it_. I
+declare to you, that my Soul was all in Fire for the Honour of _Germany_.
+Those Words, Mercy and Quarter, I took for an Insult upon my Country. I
+was young and hot-headed, and was just going to return him an Answer that
+would not have become me; however, I kept my Temper, and 'twas not till
+the second or third Provocation that I made him Answer, _That I did not
+think he ought to be surprized at what the +German+ Troops did, because
+they had known his Valour sufficiently before the Battle of +Denain+, but
+never had a Trial of his Clemency_. I saw that he did not relish my
+Answer, upon which he shifted the Subject, and did not speak a Word more
+to me all the Time.
+
+Some time after the Peace, however, I made him Satisfaction: 'Twas at the
+House of the Duchess _de Lude_, Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_. There was a great deal of Company, and among the rest, the
+Marshal _de Villars_. The Conversation fell upon the Custom of the
+Ancients, to give Surnames to their Heroes; and the Moderns were blam'd
+for not doing so too. _What Name should we find for you, Marshal?_ said
+the Duchess _de Lude_. I replied immediately, _This would be no difficult
+Task. I don't think that any Title would suit the Marshal +de Villars+
+better than that of +Germanicus Franciscus+_. This Trifle hit the
+Marshal's Taste so nicely, that he put on a smiling Countenance, and said
+a great many obliging Things to me.
+
+The Marshal _de Villars_, in his Youth, was a Page to _Lewis_ XIV. He
+enter'd into the Service very young, and distinguished himself at his
+first setting-out, so that he really owes his Advancement more to his
+Services and Merit, than to Fortune. After the Peace of _Ryswic_, he had
+the Care of the King's Affairs at the Emperor's Court; but was recalled
+from thence a little before the War began, upon Account of the Succession
+to the King of _Spain_, _Charles_ II. When the War was declared, M. _de
+Villars_, at that time Lieutenant-General, was in the Army in _Germany_,
+commanded by the Marshal _Catinat_. The Marquis _de Villars_, with a
+Detachment from the Army, attack'd the _Imperialists_ near _Fridlinguen_
+in 1702. The _French_ said, that he won the Victory; the _Germans_ say,
+No. Which Party is in the Right, I can't tell; but be it as it will, the
+Staff of a Marshal of _France_ was M. _de Villars_ Reward for the Battle.
+The same Year the Duke of _Savoy_ entring into an Alliance against the two
+Crowns, at the very Time that he assured them of his Attachment, the
+Treaty which that Prince made with the Emperor and his Allies, was kept
+secret for a while, tho' not so secret but the Elector of _Bavaria_ knew
+of it; and his Electoral Highness reproaching the Envoy of _Savoy_ with
+it, that Minister actually swore he knew nothing of the Matter, and that,
+moreover, he did not believe it; upon which the Marshal _de Villars_, who
+was present, clapp'd his Hand upon the Envoy's Shoulder, and repeated
+this Verse to him out of _Racine_; _Tu ne le crois que trop, malheureux
++Mithridate+_, _i. e._ Ah! poor _Mithridates_! thou believest it but too
+much. In 1704, the Marshal _de Villars_ was recalled from the Army in
+_Germany_, to command in the _Cevennois_, where he gained Palms and
+Olives, as well as Laurels; for by his good Nature and Moderation he
+pacified a Rebellion, which the too great Severity of his Predecessor, the
+Marshal _de Montrevel_, had but the more inflamed.
+
+After this, he had the Command of the Army in _Germany_, and kept it till
+1709, when he went into the _Netherlands_ to relieve the Duke _de
+Vendosme_, who was sent into _Spain_. M. _de Villars_, when in _Flanders_,
+retriev'd the Honour of _France_, which had been sully'd there by several
+Defeats. For tho' the _French_ suffer'd another at the Battle of
+_Malplaquet_, yet they made so brave a Stand, that the Allies could not
+help admiring their Courage. The Marshal _de Villars_, being wounded in
+the Knee, was obliged to retire, and to leave the Command to the Marshal
+_de Boufflers_, who drew off the Army in good Order. They give out, that
+when the Marshal _de Villars_ heard the News, he said, _+Villars+ was not
+there; he could not be everywhere_. The Allies paid dear for this Victory;
+for they lost twenty-three thousand Men, besides a considerable Number of
+Officers of Distinction. They might say as _Pyrrhus_ did, after the Defeat
+of the _Romans_, _One more such a Victory, and I am undone_. The _French_
+lost eight thousand one hundred thirty-seven Men; and during the whole
+Course of the War, there was not a more bloody, nor a more obstinate
+Battle.
+
+The Campaign of 1712 was the most glorious to the Marshal _de Villars_, of
+any that he ever made; for he therein gained the Victory at _Denain_, and
+in two Months time took from the Allies what had cost them several
+Campaigns.
+
+'Twas about the same time, that, upon the Death of the Duke _de Vend�me_
+at _Vinaroz_ in _Spain_, _Lewis_ XIV. conferr'd his Government of
+_Provence_ upon the Marshal, who was also made a Duke and Peer. They tell
+a Story, that when he went to take Possession of his Government, and the
+Deputies of the Province presented him with a Purse full of _Lewis d'Ors_,
+One of 'em said, _Here_, my Lord, _is such another Purse as that we gave
+to the Duke +de Vend�me+, when, like you, he came to be our Governor; but
+that Prince refus'd to take it_. _Ah!_ said the Marshal _de Villars_,
+squeezing the Purse, _M. +de Vend�me+ has not left his Fellow behind him_.
+
+The War in the _Netherlands_ being finish'd by the Peace at _Utrecht_, the
+Marshal _de Villars_ had again the Command of the Army in _Germany_. When
+he took his Leave of the King, he said to him, _I most humbly intreat your
+Majesty to consider, that I leave you in the midst of my Enemies, whilst I
+am going to fight yours_. He actually took _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, and
+afterwards return'd to _Versailles_, to receive the King's Orders to go
+and treat of a Peace with Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. During the Campaign
+his Enemies told the King, in hopes his Majesty would blame him for it,
+that he had laid out the Sum of 1800,000 Livres in the Purchase of an
+Estate. The King asking him one Day at Dinner, if it was true that he had
+made such a Purchase; _Yes, Sir_, replied the Marshal, who suspected that
+those who told the King of it were then at the Table, _I have bought an
+Estate which cost me 1800,000 Livres; and if the War continues, and your
+Majesty trusts me with the Command of your Army, I hope to purchase a more
+considerable one next Year at the Expence of your Enemies_. But instead of
+making another Campaign, the Marshal went to _Rastadt_, where he and
+Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ sign'd the Preliminaries of the Peace, which
+those two Generals concluded afterwards at _Baden_ on the seventh of
+_June_ 1714. Since that time the Marshal has always resided at Court. The
+_French_ look upon him as the Restorer of their Reputation in the
+_Netherlands_, the Support of the State, and the chief Captain of his
+Time: He is loaded with Wealth and Dignities: He is a Duke and Peer, a
+Marshal of _France_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight Commander of the
+King's Orders, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Governor of _Provence_.
+He has an only Son, for whom he has obtain'd the Reversion of his
+Government[68].
+
+Perhaps I have detain'd you too long about the Marshal _de Villars_; but I
+thought the little Particularities I have given you would do you a
+Pleasure, and that you would not be sorry to know some Circumstances of a
+Man, who, after all, has been much cry'd-up in _Europe_. I shall be more
+brief in my Account of the other Noblemen, and of these I shall name but
+two or three, of whom you have heard some Talk, and such as are in most
+Reputation with us.
+
+_James Fitz-James_ Duke of _Berwic_, a Peer and Marshal of _France_, a
+Peer of _England_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight of the Garter, and of
+the Golden Fleece, is the legitimated Son of _James_ II. King of _Great
+Britain_[69]. He follow'd his Father to _France_, where he served with
+Distinction. In 1706 he had the Marshal's Staff given him; and in 1707 he
+commanded the Army of the two Crowns in _Spain_, where he defeated the
+Lord _Gallway_ near _Almanza_. The King of _Spain_, to reward him for such
+great Service, made him a Grandee of _Spain_, and gave him the Duchy of
+_Liria_, which M. _de Berwic_ yielded to his eldest Son, who is actually
+in Possession of it. In 1714 the Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_ reduc'd
+_Barcelona_ under the Obedience of _Philip_ V. This City had refus'd to
+acknowledge that Prince, and tho' abandon'd, and without any Hopes of
+Relief, continued the War with an Obstinacy of Men who seem'd to be
+desperate. The very Women, the Priests, Friers, all were Soldiers in
+_Barcelona_; and during the Siege, which held sixty-one Days with open
+Trenches, after a Blockade of eleven Months, there were five hundred and
+forty-three Friers and Priests kill'd and wounded in the Sallies and
+Attacks. The City was taken on the eleventh of _September_ by Storm: The
+Battle lasted from Four o'Clock in the Morning till Eleven, when the
+Inhabitants retir'd into the new Town, which is only separated from the
+other by a single Wall. They surrender'd next Day at Discretion to the
+Marshal-Duke _de Berwic_, who gave them a verbal Promise to save their
+Lives, and to protect the City from Plunder, on their paying down a large
+Sum of Money. _Barcelona_ being thus reduc'd, the Marshal return'd to
+_France_ loaded with Wealth and Honours. Upon the Death of King _Lewis_
+XIV. he was admitted to the Council of the Regency, and sent soon after to
+command in _Guienne_. The Regent gave him the Command of the Army against
+the King of _Spain_, which his Royal Highness had before offer'd to the
+Marshal _de Villars_; but that Nobleman told him, He would never draw his
+Sword against a Prince who might one Day become his Sovereign, a Prince
+for whose Service he had already spilt some Blood, and one for whom the
+Kingdom had expended such a Treasure. The Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_, being
+not so delicate, accepted of the Command, took _St. Sebastian_, and obey'd
+the Regent much more than he was bound to do in Duty.
+
+For this he was continued in the Command of _Guienne_, and particularly of
+_Bourdeaux_. For some time past the Marshal-Duke has been very much at
+Court, and often at his Ducal Lordship in _Picardy_[70].
+
+_Victor-Maria_ Duke _d'Estr�es_, whom I ought to have mention'd before the
+Duke of _Berwic_, as being the oldest Marshal of _France_, is
+Vice-Admiral of the Kingdom, a Duke and Peer, a Grandee of _Spain_, a
+Commandeur of the King's Orders, and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. He is
+the last of his Family, which has been render'd illustrious by all the
+great Dignities of the Kingdom ever since[71] the charming _Gabriella
+d'Estr�es_, who was Mistress to _Henry_ IV. He lives with as much Splendor
+and Magnificence as most Noblemen in _France_: His House is open to all
+Foreigners of Distinction, and Men of Knowledge and Learning are well
+receiv'd in it. The Marshal has a fine Library, a most beautiful Cabinet
+of Medals, and a complete Collection of antique Stones that are grav'd.
+Besides the Estate of the Family of _Estr�es_, of which he is the only
+Head, he made great Acquisitions by _Missisippi_ Stock, and there are few
+Sovereigns that have finer Diamonds. Since the Troubles that arose in
+_Bretagne_ during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, the Assembly of
+the States of that Province is always held by this Nobleman. The Nobility
+of _Bretagne_ extol him very much, and find a great Difference between
+their Treatment by this Marshal, and the rigid haughty Air with which the
+late Marshal _de Montesquiou_ carried it to them during the Regency. Tho'
+the Marshal _d'Estr�es_ is very much attach'd to the Court, yet he is
+often at _Paris_, where he has a very fine House, and is visited by the
+greatest and the best People in the Kingdom. The Marshal's Lady, who is
+_Noailles_, Sister to the Countess _de Tholouse_, was formerly a Lady of
+the Bed-chamber to the Duchess of _Burgundy_; she has all the Politeness
+of the ancient Court, and tho' she is past the Bloom of her Youth, she is
+still one of the most amiable Women at Court, and by her Management there
+is not a more agreeable Family than hers in the Kingdom. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 22, 1732._
+
+Yesterday I loiter'd away a good deal of Time with a Couple of
+_Englishmen_, to whom, as they call it in _Italy_, I was a _Cicero_[72].
+Nevertheless, you must not expect me to give you an Account of every thing
+I saw; and besides, so much has been already said of _Versailles_, that
+you shall hardly find one Book in twenty, almost, but what treats of the
+Beauties of this Royal Palace.
+
+After having shew'd my _English_ Gentlemen the Castle, the Chapel, the
+Stables and the Park, I carried them to the Royal Abbey of _St. Cyr_,
+which they had heard so much Talk of, that they long'd to see it: 'Tis a
+grand stately House, and worthy of the Magnificence of the great Monarch
+who founded it, at the Solicitation of Madame _de Maintenon_, for the
+Education of two hundred and fifty young Damsels, whose Families are not
+able to give them a Maintenance suitable to their Birth. Immediately after
+the Demise of _Lewis_ XIV. Madame _de Maintenon_ retir'd to _St. Cyr_, and
+there she always dwelt till she died. She went thither indeed, even
+during the King's Illness, as soon as she found that the Physicians had
+given him over; the King, however, contrary to all Expectation, recover'd;
+and not seeing Madame _de Maintenon_, ask'd where she was: Upon this the
+Lady return'd, when the King gave her a handsome Reprimand for abandoning
+him, and desir'd her to stay with him as long as he had any Remains of
+Life. Madame _de Maintenon_ obey'd, but the King's Breath was no sooner
+out of his Body, than she took Coach, and went to _St. Cyr_, with a Design
+never to stir from it as long as she liv'd.
+
+She had the Consolation, however, of receiving Visits there from all the
+Princes and Princesses of the Blood; and even the late Madame the Regent's
+Mother, who never visited Madame _de Maintenon_ in the King's Life-time,
+thought she could not excuse herself from making her a Visit. The Regent
+went thither likewise, and told her, she might depend upon his punctual
+Regard to every Tittle that the late King had order'd in her Favour by his
+last Will and Testament. Madame _de Maintenon_ return'd him Thanks, and
+said, that as she was resolv'd to be retir'd for the Residue of her Life,
+she desir'd but 40,000 Livres a Year for her Subsistance. Four Years after
+this she died, and was interr'd in the Church of _St. Cyr_, in the Middle
+of the Choir, in a Tomb of plain black Marble, with the following Epitaph
+engrav'd on it; which I lik'd so well, that I have copied it Word for
+Word, and send it to you, because I don't believe you have seen it
+elsewhere.
+
+                                CY  GIT
+
+      _Tr�s baute & tr�s puissante Dame
+      Madame_ FRANCOISE D'AUBIGNE,
+      _Marquise de_ MAINTENON;
+      _Femme Illustre, Femme vraiment Chr�tienne;
+      Cette Femme forte que le Sage chercha vainement dans son Siecle,
+      Et qu'il nous e�t propos� pour modele, s'il e�t v�cu dans le n�tre.
+        Sa Naissance fut tr�s noble.
+      On loua de bonne heure son Esprit, & plus encore sa Vertu.
+      La Sagesse, la Douceur, la Modestie sormoient son Caractere,
+        Qui ne se d�mentit jamais.
+      Toujours �gale dans les differentes situations de sa vie;
+      M�mes Principles, m�mes Regles, m�mes Vertus.
+        Fid�le dans les exercices de Pi�t�,
+      Tranquille au milieu des agitations de la Cour,
+        Simple dans la Grandeur,
+        Pauvre dans le centre des richesses,
+        Humble au comble des honneurs;
+      R�v�r�e de_ LOUIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environn�e de sa gloire,
+      Autoris�e par sa plus intime confiance,
+        D�positaire de ses graces,
+      Qui n'a jamais fait d'usage de son pouvoir,
+        Que par sa bont�.
+      Une autre Esther dans la faveur,
+      Une seconde Judith dans la Retraite & l'Oraison:
+        La Mere des Pauvres,
+      L'Asyle toujours s�r des malheureux,
+          Une vie si illustre
+      A �t� termin�e par un mort sainte
+          Et precieuse devant Dieu.
+      Son Corps est rest� dans cette sainte maison,
+        Dont elle avoit procur� l'�tablissement;
+          Et elle a laiss� � l'univers
+          L'exemple de ses vertus.
+        D�c�d�e le 15 d'Avril 1719.
+        N�e le 28 de Novembre 1635._
+
+                                 i. e.
+
+                               HERE LIES
+
+      _The most high and most potent Lady_
+      _The Lady_ FRANCESE D'AUBIGNY,
+         _Marchioness of_ MAINTENON.
+      _A Wife illustrious_[73], _a Woman truly Christian;
+      That virtuous Heroine whom the wise Man sought in vain in his Time,
+      And whom he wou'd have propos'd to us for a Pattern, if he had
+            liv'd in ours.
+        She was of Birth most noble,
+      Her Wit was early commended, and much more her Virtue.
+      Sobriety, good Nature and Modesty, form'd her Character,
+        From which she never derogated.
+      Always unchangeable in the various Situations of her Life;
+      The same Principles, the same Rules, the same Virtues.
+        Sincere in the Exercises of Piety,
+      Tranquil during the Storms at Court,
+          Plain in the Midst of Grandeur,
+      Poor in the Centre of Wealth,_
+        _Humble at the Summit of Honours;
+      Rever'd by_ LEWIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environ'd with his Glory,
+      Vested with his most intimate Confidence,
+        The Depositary of his Favours,
+      Who never made use of her Power
+        But to do Good.
+      Another_ Esther _in Favour,
+      A second_ Judith _in Retirement and Prayer:
+        The Mother of the Poor,
+      The never-failing Asylum of the Unfortunate.
+          A Life so illustrious
+      Was cut off by a Death Pious,
+          And precious in the Sight of God.
+      Her Body lies in this Sacred House,
+        Of which she procur'd the Establishment:
+          And her Virtues she has left
+          To the World for a Pattern.
+        She departed this Life_ April 15, 1719.
+        _Being born the 28th of_ November 1635.
+
+My _Englishmen_ thought the Panegyric upon Madame _de Maintenon_ a little
+too much strain'd. I confess that I think she is well equipp'd with a
+Character; and if it be true, that she was as humble as her Epitaph
+imports, I make no doubt, but if she had liv'd to see such an Encomium, it
+would have put her Modesty sadly out of Countenance: For 'tis certain,
+that this Lady had a very great Fund of Virtue and Piety; and I have heard
+it said by Persons, who otherwise had no reason to be fond of her, that
+'twas impossible to be acquainted with her, and not to esteem her.
+
+When I return'd from _St. Cyr_, I came hither to see M. _Voltaire_'s
+Tragedy of _Brutus_, which is so fine a Piece, that I and my _English_
+Companions were charm'd with it: We not only admir'd the Conduct and
+Versification of it, but we applauded the Freedom with which the Author
+makes the _Romans_ think and speak. Mean time, the _French_ are not of our
+Opinion. _The Respect due to Royalty_, say they, _is not well preserv'd in
+it_. They censure the Author _for presuming to confine the Royal Authority
+within the Bounds of Justice_. _M._ de Voltaire, say they, _never could
+imbibe these Sentiments in_ France. _'Tis very plain that he contracted
+them beyond Sea. They may be relish'd well enough by the_ English; _but to
+us they are intolerable: And if M._ de Voltaire _goes on to write in this
+Manner, he may, perhaps, have an Apartment in the_ Bastile. I confess that
+terrible Name dumb-founder'd me, and I did not dare to say a Word in the
+Author's Vindication, for fear of being deem'd his Accomplice. The
+_Bastile_ and the _Holy Office_ are two Terms which always silenc'd me,
+even when I have had the strongest Inclination to speak my Mind.
+
+As for the Comedians, they perform'd Wonders. One _du Fr�ne_ actually
+out-did himself. He is Brother to _Quinaut_, an excellent Comedian in the
+Parts which require Humour, but excessively out-of-the-Way in Tragedy; and
+take him off the Theatre, impertinent beyond Expression, as is also his
+Brother, tho' they are both Men of Wit.
+
+The Players are much more respected here than they are elsewhere, which
+makes them insolent to the last Degree. The Nobility are fond of their
+Company, and admit them to their Parties of Pleasure: And as they are
+Kings upon the Stage, and Equals and Companions at Table with the best
+Lords in the Kingdom, no wonder that it turns their Brains. But that which
+must needs render them arrogant beyond Measure, is a late Instance of
+Regard paid them by the _French_ Academy, who, by a Letter, invited the
+Performers in the _French_ Comedy, to hear an Oration made in their
+Academy; which the Comedians took for such an Honour, that the very next
+Day they offer'd the Members of the Academy Admission to their Comedy
+_Gratis_; which the Academicians made no Scruple to accept, to the great
+Amazement of the whole City of _Paris_, which blames the Members for it
+not a little: The Fault is laid at the Door of certain Authors, who are in
+League with the Comedians, and gave the Invitation without consulting the
+rest of the Members, of whom several that had, no Hand in the Transaction,
+protested against the Conduct of those who had, the Consequence of which
+was a Quarrel in the Academy. Indeed, one would imagine by that Day's
+Work, that they did not really consider what they were doing; and the
+Noblemen who are Members of the Academy, cry out against it very much.
+'Tis true, that the Comedians who presume to offer Admission _Gratis_ to a
+Marshal _de Villars_, a Marshal _d'Estr�es_, or other Noblemen of that
+Rank, are not mean Fellows, and deserve the Appellation of the _Company
+of_ Comedians, instead of _Troop_; in order to distinguish them from the
+Strollers in the[74] Country. Why then should not they be honour'd? The
+Actors in the Opera, who, as well as they, divert the Public for Lucre,
+have, indeed, the Privilege, that a Gentleman may be admitted among them
+without Disparagement to his Title. This is a Favour, says a modern Author
+very justly, which had never yet been granted to those who perform in the
+public Spectacles, and who give Diversion for Money; because in most of
+the Ages of Christianity, they had been look'd upon as Persons
+excommunicated and infamous, by reason of the Corruption in Morals, owing
+to their then too licentious Representations, which, perhaps, is no longer
+apprehended to be the Case at present. 'Tis certain, that if a Performer
+in an Opera may be noble, I can't see why a Person mayn't be the same in a
+Comedy; tho' 'tis my Opinion, that if Stage-players may be Gentlemen,
+Rope-dancers and Tumblers have a Title to it; for, besides the Honour they
+have of diverting the Public, they run the Risk of breaking their Necks
+every Day; and is not that the Lot of the Nobility?
+
+As I returned Yesterday with my _Englishmen_ from _Versailles_, we went to
+_St. Cloud_, where we had the Honour to see the Duke _de Chartres_, the
+only Son of the Duke of _Orleans_. This Prince was in the Park, to see a
+young Officer of the Train of Artillery make Proofs of some Pieces of
+Ordnance. We were surpriz'd to see how attentively the young Prince
+observed every thing, and to hear him ask the Officer such Questions as
+were not to be expected from one of his Years. We had reason also to
+applaud the gracious and polite Reception which he gave us. To be plain, I
+was charm'd to see a Grandson of the late _Madame_, so worthy of herself,
+and of the illustrious Blood from which he is descended.
+
+_St. Cloud_ is a Palace belonging to the Duke of _Orleans_, first Prince
+of the Blood, and was built by Order of the late Monsieur _Philip_ of
+_France_, (Brother of _Lewis_ XIV.) who added very magnificent Gardens to
+it. 'Tis certain, that if the late King had chose _St. Cloud_ for his
+Residence, instead of _Versailles_, he might have had a finer Building
+with less Expence. What is most admir'd at _St. Cloud_, are the Gallery
+and Salon, both painted by _Mignard_, the Cascade, and the great
+Water-work, which throws up the Water a hundred Feet high, and which
+nothing exceeds of the Kind, but the Work that was made by the Direction
+of an[75]_English_ Gentleman at _Herenhausen_, near _Hanover_, in the
+Reign of King _George_ I.
+
+_St. Cloud_ has been fatal to several Princes of the Royal Family. _Henry_
+III. was assassinated there on the first of _August_ 1589, at eight
+o'Clock in the Morning, by _James Clement_. _Henrietta_ of _England_,
+first Wife to the late _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, only
+Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. died there suddenly of a Colic, on the 30th of
+_June_ 1670. She said that she was poison'd, for which Reason the King
+caus'd her Corpse to be open'd in Presence of the _English_ Ambassador.
+'Tis a difficult Matter, to judge whether that Princess's Suspicions were
+true; for the Physicians and Surgeons found all her noble Parts corrupted,
+tho' she was but twenty-six Years old. Her Husband paid his Tribute to
+Nature on a sudden, in the same Palace, on the 4th of _June_ 1701.
+
+What I have mentioned to you of the unhappy Catastrophe of the last of the
+_Valois_, puts me in Mind of a Passage in History, that _Te Deum_ was
+forgot in the Ceremony of his Coronation; that the Crown fell from his
+Head; and that there was no Oil in the Sacred Phial, to perform the
+customary[76] Unction; which were then taken for ill Omens, and Time
+prov'd them but too true.
+
+Since I am upon Tragical Events, I will mention a Thing to you that lately
+happen'd in _England_, and which I was assur'd by the _English_ Gentlemen,
+in our Return from _Versailles_, is a certain Fact.
+
+One _Richard Smith_, a Bookbinder, and his Wife _Bridget_, were about a
+Fortnight ago found hanging in their Chamber near their Bed-side, about
+three or four Feet Distance from one another; and in the next Room, their
+Daughter, who was but two Years old, was found shot thro' the Head. There
+were three Letters left upon the Table, of which the following is the most
+material; and I send you a Copy of it, because it will let you into the
+_Stoic_ Character of the _English_ Nation. 'Tis directed to Mr.
+_Brindley_, a Bookbinder at _London_, in that which is call'd _New
+Bondstreet_.
+
+_Cousin_ BRINDLEY,
+
+    'These Actions, consider'd in all their Circumstances, being
+    somewhat uncommon, it may not be improper to give some Account
+    of the Cause, and that it was an inveterate Hatred we conceiv'd
+    against Poverty and Rags; Evils, which through a Train of
+    unlucky Accidents were become inevitable; for we appeal to all
+    that ever knew us, whether we were either idle or extravagant;
+    whether or no we have not taken as much Pains to get our Living
+    as our Neighbours, altho' not attended with the same Success.
+    We apprehend the taking our Child's Life away to be a
+    Circumstance for which we shall be generally condemn'd; but for
+    our own Parts, we are perfectly easy upon that Head. We are
+    satisfy'd it is less Cruelty to take the Child with us, even
+    supposing a State of Annihilation, as some dream of, than to
+    leave her friendless in the World, expos'd to Ignorance and
+    Misery. Now in order to obviate some Censures, which may proceed
+    either from Ignorance or Malice, we think it proper to inform
+    the World, that we firmly believe the Existence of Almighty God;
+    that this Belief of ours is not an implicit Faith, but deduced
+    from the Nature and Reason of Things: We believe the Existence
+    of an Almighty Being from the Consideration of his wonderful
+    Works, from a Consideration of those innumerable celestial and
+    glorious Bodies, and from their wonderful Order and Harmony. We
+    have also spent some Time in viewing those Wonders which are to
+    be seen in the minute Part of the World, and that with great
+    Pleasure and Satisfaction, from all which Particulars, we are
+    satisfied, that such amazing Things could not possibly be
+    without a first Mover, without the Existence of an Almighty
+    Being: And as we know the wonderful God to be Almighty, so we
+    cannot help believing but that he is also good, not implacable;
+    not like such Wretches as Men are, not taking Delight in the
+    Miseries of his Creatures; for which Reason we resign up our
+    Breaths unto him, without any terrible Apprehensions, submitting
+    ourselves to those Ways, which in his Goodness he shall please
+    to appoint after Death. We also believe the Existence of
+    unbody'd Creatures, and think we have Reason for that Belief,
+    altho' we don't pretend to know their Way of subsisting. We are
+    not ignorant of those Laws made _in Terrorem_; but leave the
+    Disposal of our Bodies to the Wisdom of the Coroner and his
+    Jury; the Thing being indifferent to us where our Bodies are
+    laid: From whence it will appear how little anxious we are about
+    a _Hic jacet_; we for our Parts neither expect, nor desire such
+    Honours, but shall content ourselves with a borrowed Epitaph,
+    _viz._
+
+      'Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb,
+      Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb.
+      Where we were born or bred, it matters not,
+      Who were our Parents, or have us begot.
+      We were, but are not: think no more of us;
+      For as we are, so you'll be turn'd to Dust.
+
+    'It is the Opinion of _Naturalists_, that our Bodies are at
+    certain Stages of Life compos'd of new Matter, so that a great
+    many poor People have new Bodies oftner than new Cloaths: Now as
+    Divines are not able to inform us which of those several Bodies
+    shall rise at the Resurrection, it is very probable, that the
+    deceased Body may be for ever silent as well as any other.'
+
+                                                               Sign'd,
+                                                        RICHARD SMITH.
+                                                        BRIDGET SMITH.
+
+The Coroner's Inquest, after the usual Formalities, brought in their
+Verdict, whereby they declared _Richard Smith_ guilty of that Crime, which
+they call in _England_, _Felo de se_, or Self-Murder; and of Wilful Murder
+as to his Child. _Bridget_ was brought in a Lunatic, tho' she had sign'd
+the Letter with her Husband, and acknowledged that she was equally
+concerned in the Murder of her Child; so that I think her Corpse deserved
+hanging, at least for a little while: And sure I am, that she would not
+have been found a Lunatic here.
+
+There being commonly some little Piece of Entertainment at the End of
+Tragedies, I am now to divert you with some such Farce. 'Tis the Adventure
+of a certain pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, with the Abb� _de Vayrac_, an
+Author, and a Man of[77]Wit. Not many Days ago, as the Abb� was walking on
+Foot, he was overtaken with a Shower of Rain, which made him take Shelter
+under a Penthouse, at a Shop-door. At the same Time, who should pass by in
+a magnificent Coach, driving at a mad Rate, as if he would run over every
+Thing in his Way, but a Counsellor, whose furious Career was stopp'd all
+on a sudden, by something that broke his Harness! This Disaster happen'd
+just at the Place Where the Abb� _de Vayrac_ stood, dress'd like other
+Authors, with an old tatter'd Hat upon his Head, and a shabby Cloak over a
+Coat quite thread-bare. The Thing that most diverted the Counsellor, was
+his Hat, and he order'd one of his Lacqueys to ask him, if it was not as
+old as the Battle of[78]_Rocroy_. You must know, the Lacqueys of this
+Country are more brazen-fac'd and insolent than they are any-where else;
+and the Counsellor's discharg'd his Errand to a Tittle. M. _l'Abb�_, said
+he, in a Droll Tone, _my Master wants to know in what Battle your Hat
+receiv'd all those Wounds_. _At the Battle of_ Cann�, _Friend_, reply'd
+the Abb�; and then he laid on five or six heavy Blows upon the impudent
+Ambassador's Shoulders with his _Cane_. The Counsellor, seeing his
+Domestic so soundly drubb'd, stepp'd instantly out of his Coach, and
+running to the Abb�, said, _What are you doing?_ The Abb� reply'd very
+sedately, _I am chastising Insolence._ _Parbleu_, M. _l'Abb�_, said the
+Counsellor, _I think you are a pleasant Fellow to presume to strike a
+Servant of mine! Surely you don't know me; for if you did, you would have
+more Respect for my Livery._ _Pardon me_, reply'd the Abb�, _I know you
+very well._ _And who am I?_ said the Counsellor. _Why you are a Fool_,
+reply'd the _Abb�_; upon which the Gentleman thought fit to sneak off.
+This is a very true Story; for I had it from the Abb� _de Vayrac_ himself,
+who told it to me with the same Gravity as he had answer'd the Counsellor.
+
+Tho' Lacqueys are not commonly the Subjects of Conversation, yet I think
+that those of _Paris_ deserve some Notice. They form so considerable a
+Body, that there are many Kings who have not so numerous an Army. Besides,
+these Fellows make such extraordinary Fortunes, and often rise so quick
+from _Valets_, to be Masters and Gentlemen, that really they ought not to
+be confounded in the Lump with the _European_ Lacqueys. Those of 'em who
+set up for fine Fellows, as many of 'em do, (for in the Livery of _Paris_,
+you meet with every Thing that is handsome and gay) such, I say, as are in
+the Service of some young Noblemen, are commonly Equals and Companions
+with their Masters. There are others who are the Darlings of the Fair Sex;
+and if Satire may be credited, and Appearances, perhaps, into the
+Bargain, there are Ladies even of the first Quality, who don't always
+treat their Lacqueys like Servants. 'Tis true, they most commonly take
+them out of the Livery, and in order to bring them near their Persons,
+they make them their Pages, or _Valets de Chambre_. Nothing is thought too
+good for these Favourites of _Venus_; they are rigg'd out like Princes,
+and were you to see one of these fortunate Lacqueys, you would naturally
+take him for some Person of Consequence. And indeed, there are some who
+act the Man of Quality to such a Perfection, that nothing can exceed it;
+and they have often better Manners than their Masters. The Airs of
+Importance, and of Quality, are very natural to the _French_. There are
+others of the menial Class, that enjoy the Favour of their young Masters,
+in a Way so uncommon, that one knows not what to think of it; and many of
+those young Gentlemen, forgetting the Respect that is due to their own
+Persons, and their Families, make Parties at Supper with 'em, at which
+Time, I fansy, Conversation is the least Part of the Entertainment. But
+such is the Spirit of Debauchery, that it has infected the Generality of
+the young People at Court; tho' 'tis true enough, that it ever was so.
+
+I don't say that excessive Debauchery is the universal Go�t of the Nation;
+for, on the contrary, the _French_ are virtuous from the Cradle to the
+Grave, if they are but so happy as to get over the four or five Years of
+juvenile Fury, and to surmount the tumultuous Passions which their great
+Vivacity kindles in their Breasts, and prompts them to do Things at twenty
+Years of Age, which at thirty they detest and abhor; and I affirm of the
+_French_ in general, that they are not vicious by Inclination. The
+Nobleman is infinitely more so, than the Bulk of the People; and whether
+it is bad Company, bad Counsel, or whatever else that misleads him, he
+thinks that to be debauch'd gives him a fine Air; and many of 'em really
+boast of being greater Deboshees, than in Fact they are.
+
+But this does not seem to me to be the Case of the Women (I mean of those
+who are not very rigidly attach'd to the Precepts of Virtue). They always
+preserve an Appearance of Decency, which imposes on such as don't know
+them: Nor is their Conversation licentious; and if they are naughty, 'tis
+in private. 'Tis certain that our Countrymen don't do the _French_ Ladies
+Justice. Many of our young Fellows, when they come home from _Paris_,
+affecting to be Coxcombs, tell Stories so much to the Disadvantage of the
+Fair Sex, that most of the _German_ Gentlemen, and especially of our
+Ladies, think the Reverse of what they ought to do. Virtue and Modesty are
+as eminent among the Sex here as elsewhere; and those Whifflers, that give
+themselves the Liberty of scandalizing them, very often know not how to
+call one Woman of Quality by her right Name, and even never saw her
+Antichamber. 'Tis certain, that there are Women of Quality here, who have
+laid aside the Mask; but of these there are so few, that the whole Sex
+ought not to be reproach'd for their Misconduct. I give you my Word and
+Honour, that there are fine young Ladies here, born to charm our Sex, whom
+Calumny itself is obliged to respect; and I don't see what more can be
+desired. I'll vouch the same for the young Gentlemen, of whom indeed, the
+greatest Number is very much debauch'd, but there are some that have not
+quitted the Reins of Modesty. A _Tremouille_, a _Luxembourg_, a
+_Boufflers_, and many more, may be set up as Examples to our Youth, who,
+perhaps, would be worse than the Youth of _France_, if they were enter'd
+as young into Company, and seated in the Centre of Joy and Pleasures. But
+I perceive, that instead of a Letter I am drawing a Case. Therefore here I
+drop my Brief, and think my Epistle long enough to be concluded. I am
+intirely Yours, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 28, 1732._
+
+I was puzzled some time ago, to think what could make the _French_ forget
+Father _Girard_ and _la Cadiere_, and the pretended St. _Paris_; for I
+apprehended, those two Articles would be the Subject of Conversation a
+great while longer; but I was mistaken: 'Tis all forgot; and there's
+something now upon the Tapis, of quite another Kind.
+
+The Archbishop of _Paris_ having thought fit to issue his Mandate for
+suppressing a certain printed Paper, intitled _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_,
+(a Sort of Ecclesiastical News-Journal) the Parliament of _Paris_ was
+disgusted, and made an Arret, condemning the Archbishop's Mandate. The
+Court took the Prelate's Part, and declar'd all that was done by the
+Parliament upon this Occasion, null and void. The Parliament standing up
+mightily for its Privileges, which nevertheless it holds only by the good
+Pleasure of its Kings, discontinued its Assemblies, and the King was
+obliged to issue repeated Orders, before the Members would resume their
+Business. Mean time the _Advocates_ and _Solicitors_ have thought fit to
+espouse the Cause of the Parliament, and refuse to plead till the King has
+_done Justice_ to the Parliament, ('tis their own Term) by preserving it
+in the Possession of Appeals against Incroachments; which it has really
+enjoy'd for many Years, and which is the Ground of the present Disputes.
+The Parliament say, that they are the more justifiable in supporting this
+antient Prerogative, because they are obliged to it in Conscience, and for
+the Welfare of the State committed to their Charge. For, say they, what
+would be the Consequence, were the Archbishop's Mandate to be authorized?
+The Pope and the Bishops would, by Degrees, assume that Right which they
+pretend to, of pronouncing Excommunications for very trivial Causes, and
+even of putting the King himself under an Interdict, and consequently of
+usurping a Temporal Despotic Power under the Umbrage of their Spiritual
+Power, which, say the Parliament, is absolutely contrary to the Liberties
+of the _Gallican_ Church; by Virtue whereof, 'tis sufficient for the
+Parliament alone, in the like Case, to stigmatize and condemn those
+_Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, as they have already done for a long Time.
+
+This is, in general, the Situation of Affairs, and the Substance of the
+Arguments made use of by the Parliament for the Maintenance of their
+Rights, which are stuff'd with Abundance of pompous Terms, such as the
+_Obligations of Conscience_, the _Liberties of the_ Gallican _Church_, and
+a thousand such Expressions, with which the very Hawkers make your Ears
+ring as you go along the Streets. The Ladies too have for the present laid
+aside all the Jargon of Dresses, to learn that Language; and she who us'd
+to talk of Cornets and Gorgets, now assumes the Style of an Advocate,
+pleads for _Gallican_ Liberties, overturns the Church, and sends the
+_Sacred College_ and the _Bishops_ to the Gallies. In short, I can't
+express to you, how ridiculous the _French_ are in these Cases. Being fond
+of every Thing that's new, be it good or bad, they catch at it blindfold;
+which is a plain Confirmation of the Inconstancy of these People, who are
+so fickle, that I verily believe, if any one should take a Fancy to preach
+_Mahometanism_ to them, they would embrace it with their usual Levity.
+
+The following, my dear Friend, is a Piece of Poetry, which, I think, is
+good, and make no Doubt will please you. The Subject of it is, Christian
+Tranquillity. If I can pick up any Thing new for you, before I go hence, I
+will not fail to send it to you. I supp'd lately in a Place with M. _de
+Voltaire_, and another Poet, the latter of whom rehearsed a very pretty
+Piece to us, of which he refused to give us a Copy, pretending 'twas
+imperfect; but however, he has promised it to me. When I have it, I will
+send it to you.
+
+            TRANQUILLIT�                         CHRISTIAN
+            CHR�TIENNE.                        TRANQUILLITY.
+
+    Surles les Disputes du Tems.        On the Disputes of the Times.
+
+  Plein d'ignorance et de Miseres,    Why wilt, audacious mortal Man,
+  Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux,         So wretched, and so ignorant,
+  Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres   On Mysteries dark and profound
+  Porter un oeil trop curieux!        resume to cast an Eye too nice?
+  Toi, pour qui toute la Nature       Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems
+  Ne paroit qu'une Enigme obscure,    But an impenetrable Riddle,
+  Tu sondes les Divins Decrets?       Pretend to fathom God's Decrees?
+  Tu croi que ton foible g�nie        Think'st thou thy feeble Genius can
+  De l'Intelligence infinie           The mighty Secrets e'er unfold
+  Pourra d�voiler les Secrets?        Of infinite Intelligence?
+
+  Crains les t�n�bres respectables,  Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades,
+  O� Dieu cache sa Majest�;          Where God his Majesty conceals;
+  De ses Desseins imp�n�trables      For who the Veil can penetrate
+  Qui peut percer l'obscurit�?       Of his impenetrable Schemes?
+  Mesure la vaste �tendue            Measure the vast immense Extent
+  De ces Globes, qu'offre � la vue   Of all those Globes that may be seen
+  Un tems serein et lumineux.        In Weather most serene and bright.
+  Mais arr�te ici ton audace,        But here thy fond Presumption check;
+  Tu ne peux voir que la surface     For thou nought but the Surface seest
+  De ce Th�atre merveilleux.         Of this Theatre wonderful.
+
+  O� t'emporte l'ardeur extr�me       Where will thy furious Ardor stop,
+  De tout comprendre, et de tout      All Things to comprehend and see?
+       voir?
+  Tu ne te connois pas toi-m�me:      And know'st not what thou art
+  L'Esprit �chape � son savoir;             thyself,
+  Et la Raison imp�rieuse             Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds:
+  De la Grace victorieuse             Will then imperious Reason dare
+  Veut p�n�trer la Profondeur!        Presume to penetrate the Depths
+  +Paul+, tout rempli de              Of all-victorious Grace Divine?
+      sa Lumiere,                     Great Paul, in whom its
+  Nous apprend quelle est la maniere  Light shone full,
+  Dont elle agit sur notre coeur.     Explains to us the Manner how
+                                      Grace operates upon our Hearts.
+
+  Je sens en moi que la Nature        I feel within, that Nature's self
+  Veut �tablir ma Libert�;            To fix my Freedom makes Efforts;
+  Elle se plaint, elle murmure,       And when her Power is controll'd
+  Quand son pouvoir est disput�.      She murmurs inward, and complains.
+  Mais si j'interroge mon Ame         But if my Soul I do but ask
+  Comment une c�leste fl�me           Which way a Flame celestial
+  La fait agir, la fait mouvoir;      Induces it to act and move;
+  Je crains que cette Ame hautaine    I fear this haughty swelling Soul
+  Ne donne � la puissance humaine,    To human Power will ascribe
+  Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir.      That which to Pow'r Divine is due.
+
+  Surpris de l'Intervalle immense     Astonish'd at the Space immense
+  Qu'on voit de l'Homme au Cr�ateur,  Betwixt the Creature and Creator,
+  Si je n'admets une Puissance        If I do not a Pow'r confess
+  Qui concourt avec son Auteur,       Concurring with its Author,
+  Ce n'est plus pour moi qu'un        Free Agency, or that Free-will
+      vain titre,
+  Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre, Of which my Reason so much vaunts,
+  Que ma Raison sais tant vanter:     Is but for me an empty Plea:
+  Je ne connois plus de Justice,      That Justice I no longer own,
+  Qui r�compense et qui punisse,      Which doth reward and punish too,
+  Ce qui ne peut rien m�riter.        What strictly neither can deserve.
+
+  Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue         Thus is my Soul held in Suspense
+  Entre les Sentimens divers.         Betwixt Opinions contrary.
+  Par-tout o� je porte ma vue,        Where-e'er my roving Eyes I turn
+  Je vous des Ab�mes ouverts.         Abysses open to my View.
+  Pour me garantir du naufrage,       For fear of being cast away,
+  Je n'ose quitter le rivage;         I dare not quit the Sight of Shore;
+  La crainte ass�re mon repos.        And 'tis this Fear my Peace secures.
+  Combien, dans cette Mer profonde,   How many, in this Ocean deep,
+  Flottant � la merci de l'onde,      Floating at Mercy of the Waves,
+  Se perdent au milieu des flots?     Are by those Waves immerg'd
+                                            and lost!
+
+  De tant de disputes fameuses,       Let us the dang'rous Tracks avoid
+  O� nous embarque notre orgueil,     Of those Disputes but too
+                                            well known,
+  Fuyons les Routes dangereuse:       In which our Pride engageth us:
+  L'Homme � Lui-m�me est un �cueil;   Man's to himself a fatal Rock;
+  Dans le petis Monde sensible,       For in this little World of ours
+  Est un D�dale imperceptible,        There is a Dadalus unseen,
+  Dont nous ignorons les D�tours.     Whose Windings are to us unknown.
+  La Foi de notre sort decide:        'Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide,
+  Elle tient le fil qui nous guide;   She holds the Thread which
+  Sans elle, nous errons toujours.          is our Guide;
+                                      Or else we always go astray.
+
+  Heureux le coeur simple             Happy that honest docile Heart,
+       et docile,
+  Qui sans raisonner sur la Foi,      Which without reas'ning about Faith
+  Respecte dans nos Saints Conciles   Our Holy Councils venerates,
+  Le sacr� d�p�t de la Foi;           The Sacred Guardians of that Faith;
+  Ne franchissant point la Barriere,  And dares not climb o'er that
+                                            Barrier.
+  Que le Pere de la lumiere           Fix'd by the Father of all Light
+  Met aux vains efforts de l'esprit.  Against proud Reason's vain Efforts.
+  A quoi nos soins doivent-ils
+      tendre?                         To what shou'd our Endeavours tend?
+  Est-ce � pratiquer, ou comprendre   Is it to practice, or comprise
+  Ce que le Ciel nous a prescrit?     The Things which Heaven
+                                            has prescrib'd?
+
+  Laissons la Sagesse �ternalle       Let's to Eternal Wisdom leave
+  Disposer des coeurs � son gr�:      The sole Disposal of all Hearts:
+  Il suffit � l'Homme fidelle,        The true Believer is content,
+  Que par lui Dieu soit ador�.        That God by him shou'd be ador'd.
+  Qu'importe � ces Docteurs habiles,  What do these cunning Doctors gain,
+  Que par des Raisons trop subtiles   Who by too subtle Arguments
+  Un Syst�me soit combattu?           A System strive to overthrow?
+  Que produit leur haute science,     What does their Knowledge
+                                            great avail,
+  Si Dieu ne met dans la Balance      If God but in the Balance cast
+  Que l'Innocence & la Vertu?         Virtue and Innocence to turn
+                                            the Scale?
+
+It were to be wish'd, that every _Frenchman_ had the same Christian
+Tranquillity; for then they would not worry one another as they now do,
+nor would they give such a Scandal to _Europe_. But the Matter is push'd
+so far, that I don't foresee how a Stop can be put to it. It will be
+always a Worm preying upon the Vitals of _France_, and a Bone of
+Contention between the Court and Parliament.
+
+Some Days ago, the Court banish'd the Abb� _Pucelle_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament. This Man is another _Broussel_, and I believe, he would be
+overjoy'd, if he could revive the ancient Barricades which were erected
+during the Minority of _Lewis_ XIV. after the Queen Mother _Anne_ of
+_Austria_ had caus'd that same _Broussel_ to be put under an Arrest. But
+as yet there does not appear to be so much Rout about the Abb� _Pucelle_,
+notwithstanding he made a very great Noise in Parliament. There he spoke
+like an Angel, and every body said he defended the Liberties of the
+_Gallican_ Church so well, that nobody could do it better. Nevertheless, I
+am apprehensive, that he will be at a Loss how to vindicate his own
+Liberty; and I am very much mistaken, if he has not a Lodging at
+_Vincennes_, or the _Bastile_, before he dies. The Parliament leaves no
+Stone unturn'd, that he may be recalled; and will do no Business at all,
+till that dear Brother of theirs is restored. Mean time, all Affairs are
+at a Stand, by which private Persons are the Sufferers: And yet these very
+Counsellors, who make a Scruple of Conscience to register an Edict from
+the King, which infring'd the ancient Privileges of the Parliament, don't
+care what becomes of poor Widows and Orphans, that languish for the Issue
+of a Process kept in Suspense by these Domestic Quarrels! In Truth, I
+cannot but admire the good Nature of the King, and the Moderation of the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_. I am sure, that the Regent, and the Cardinal
+_Dubois_, would not have had so much Patience: For the former sent the
+Parliament to _Pontoise_, and caus'd the Members to be arrested and
+banish'd for a less Offence; and at the Time too, when the Parliament
+remonstrated against the Alteration of the Species, in which the Fortune
+of every _Frenchman_ was concerned. Hitherto all the Representations of
+the Parliament for the Return of the Abb� _Pucelle_, have been of no
+Effect; and I fansy, that the first President will be forced to make
+another Trip to _Compiegne_, where the King has for some Time past
+resided[79].
+
+A Couplet has lately been made upon the Abb�'s Exile: I don't remember the
+Beginning of it, but it ends thus;
+
+_Que de bonnes gens vont pleurer!_ _Que de filles vont crier_,
+_Rendez-nous_ Pucelle, _� gai_, _Rendez-nous_ Pucelle!
+
+_i. e._
+
+How do the good Women lament! How do the Daughters cry, Give us back
+_Pucelle_, Give us back _Pucelle_[80]!
+
+You must allow the _French_ are merry Mortals. Let what will happen,
+they'll find something or other in it to divert them. Every thing is to
+them a Subject for a Song; and I remember to have heard of a Ballad they
+made and sung upon the Plague in _Provence_, in 1720. Mean time, these
+Jarrings between the Court and Parliament have absolutely effac'd the
+Memory of the blessed _Paris_. 'Tis true, he began to be out of Vogue,
+after the Court caus'd the Church-yard of _St. Medard_ to be stopp'd up,
+where he lies interr'd. If this had been done at first, a great deal of
+Scandal would have been prevented. I am very sorry I can't stay to see
+what will be the End of all these Things; but my Affairs call me to
+_Germany_, whither I propose to set out the first Opportunity; therefore
+write to me no more at present.
+
+Two Days ago, I saw such a Slur put upon the Charms of a young Lady, that
+she was thoroughly mortified. 'Twas the Marchioness _de R----_, one of the
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber. She has been us'd, for a long time, to daub her
+Face very awkwardly, with a great deal of White, Red, and Patches; but on
+that Day she out-did herself. She came into the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, on Purpose to be admir'd; for she has the Reputation of a
+very great Coquette: But she was hooted at by a great many smart Fellows
+that follow'd her, and gather'd all the Mob about her, so that the poor
+Lady was glad to retire; and being oblig'd to wait a little for her Coach,
+was very much hiss'd into the Bargain by those prodigal Puppies the
+Lacqueys; so that in my Life I never saw a Woman more run down.
+
+The same Night I supped with the Marquis _de L----_, whom I had never seen
+before. I was told by a certain Lady, That he ow'd his Fortune to an old
+Woman: For tho' he was a Man of a good Family, yet, being a younger
+Brother, he was not rich. When he was twenty Years of Age, he pleased the
+Marchioness _de L----_, who was threescore and ten, to such a Degree, that
+she offer'd to marry him; and the Marquis, who was then but a plain
+Gentleman, did not want very much Intreaty to accept the Proposal; for
+tho' he was a Man of a handsome Presence, he did not presume to think that
+any young Woman would fall in Love with him, who had one hundred and fifty
+thousand good Livres a Year to her Fortune, which was what the Marchioness
+really had to bestow upon whom she pleased. As the two Lovers return'd
+from the Church of _St. Sulpice_, where they were married, the Marchioness
+carried her Spouse to her own House; and leading him into an Apartment,
+_You need not be afraid, Sir_, said she; _don't imagine that I married
+you to toy with. This is your Apartment; mine is on the other Side of the
+House. You shall lie here, and I'll lie in my own Chamber. I was willing
+to make a Man of you, because I took you for a deferring young Fellow: But
+this I could not do, without taking you to be my Husband; and I had rather
+it should be said, that I am an old Fool for marrying a young Fellow, than
+to give any Colour for reporting, that I keep you in Pay. 'Tis more
+honourable both for you and me, that we are married; for now I can do what
+I please for you without the Censure of the Public. This, too, is what I
+have resolv'd on; and as I have no Relations, you may depend upon it, that
+all I have in the World will be one Day or other your own. All the
+Acknowledgment I desire of you, is some little Share in your Respect, and
+I am persuaded you are too much of a Gentleman to use me ill._ Judge you
+how much the Marquis was surprised, at a Speech which he so little
+expected. He was ready to fall at the Feet of his Bride, and to give her
+Proofs of his Ecstasy of Love, when she push'd him from her, and said,
+_None of these extraordinary Fits, I beseech you, Sir; let us live
+together like Friends: All the rest is superfluous._ In short, she gave
+him to understand, 'twas her absolute Determination, that he should never
+think of her as his Wife. The Marquis was obliged to comply; and after
+having liv'd thus in perfect Harmony for seven Years, the Lady died, and
+left her Husband Heir to all her Estate.
+
+The young Fellows undoubtedly stand the best Chance for the great
+Fortunes. I had Engagements here, when I was but twenty-two Years of Age,
+with an old Lady too, but she was not altogether to disinterested as the
+Marchioness _de L----_; for tho' she was kind to me, she obliged me to a
+great deal of Duty. This Lady of mine was forty Years older than myself;
+yet what with Patches, and the Red and the White, her Charms were renewed
+every Day to such a Degree, that 'twas well I was twenty-two Years of Age,
+or else they would have frightened me. But fourscore thousand Livres a
+Year, which I always kept in View, made me take that for natural, which
+was only artificial; insomuch that if I had been put to my Oath, I know
+not whether I should not have sworn that my superannuated Mistress was but
+in her Teens. We lived a couple of Years together very lovingly. The Lady
+happened to have two Sons living, old enough both of 'em, to be my
+Fathers; yet she did not despair of having another Brood. For this End she
+proposed Matrimony to me, and I freely consented. But my Sons-in-law _in
+futuro_, being advertised, by whom I know not, where I had appointed a
+Meeting with their Mother, came and fell at her Feet, and conjured her not
+to wrong them and their Children, (for they were both married) by marrying
+me. The Lady was stagger'd in her Resolution, and was just going to
+promise her Sons, that she would not have me; when I came to her in the
+Nick of Time, and so encouraged her by my Presence, that she got the
+better of her Weakness.
+
+Mean time, the Sons sprung a new Mine, which answered their End. Their
+Mother was a Coquet, but one of the pious Sort, and devoted that Time to
+God, which she did not spend with me, or at her Toilet. The Sons detached
+a Priest of _St. Sulpice_ to her. The holy Man chose his Opportunity when
+I was abroad. I did not foresee, that a Blow would come from such a
+Quarter; or else the _Swiss_, and all her Domestics, being my Creatures, I
+could easily have kept him out of the House. He discharged his Commission
+so effectually, that he prevailed to have the Signing of the Marriage
+Articles, which were to have been executed the very next Day, put off for
+three Months longer. I was not very much chagrin'd when I heard this News;
+for I confess, I flatter'd myself, that 'twas not possible for the Lady to
+escape me. By the Description I have given you of my Sweetheart, you will
+imagine that I was not over Head and Ears in Love. Whatever Scruple the
+Priest of _St. Sulpice_ had raised in her, she carried it to me the same
+as ever: We still liv'd very lovingly together, and I had considerable
+Presents made to me, which I squandered away as fast as I received. At the
+same Time, I did not dare to mention any Writings for my Security; and to
+talk to a Mistress of threescore Years and ten, about making her Last Will
+and Testament, was, I thought, a strange kind of Courtship, and the Way to
+spoil all.
+
+Nevertheless, this Misfortune fell upon me, when I least of all expected
+it. As I went one Morning into my Dear's Chamber, I found her at her
+Toilet, complaining of a great Pain in her Head. She told me, That she was
+in a sad Quandary too, because she had invited People to Dinner, but was
+not in a Condition to keep them Company; and she desired me, therefore, to
+do them the Honours of her House: But I prevailed with her to send Word to
+those whom she had invited, that she was ill, and that she should be glad
+to see them another Time. I then left her, with a Promise to come back and
+dine with her; and having taken a Walk, I returned accordingly; when I
+found her dress'd more gay than usual. She told me, that a Dish or two of
+Coffee had quite remov'd her Head-ach, and that she had trick'd herself up
+to please me. We din'd together, but she eat very little, and began very
+soon to complain again; so that I made her lie down upon the Bed, and
+taking a Book in my Hand, I sat down by her to read, while she rested: But
+all on a sudden, I felt her lay hold of my Hand, and as I turned about to
+her, my Mistress gave my Hand a Squeeze, and that Instant expir'd. I
+called for Help, and both Surgeons and Physicians came, by whose Order she
+was blooded; but 'twas to no Purpose: For _there's no returning from the
+Shore of the Dead_.
+
+This Accident so surprized me, that I did not so much as think of securing
+my own Effects; but went into my Room, and presently I was given to
+understand, that one of the Sons of the Deceased was come with an Officer
+to seal up all her Effects. I did not in the least oppose it, nor, indeed,
+had I any manner of Title to dispute it. But my Good-nature only made the
+Son the more insolent; for he even came into my own Apartment, to seal up
+such Effects as belong'd to me. I told him, that if he did not withdraw, I
+would make my Servants, and those of the Deceased, who had all a Respect
+for me, turn him out. During this, the late M. _de N----_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament, who was very much my Friend, came to see me, who advised me to
+quit my Quarters with all Speed, and to pack up every Thing that belong'd
+to me immediately. He also offer'd me Room in his House for my Furniture,
+and other Effects; which Offer I accepted, and in a few Hours every Thing
+of mine was clear'd off of the Premises. The Sons, after this, threaten'd
+to enter an Action against me; but as they had no Proof of any Thing that
+I ow'd to their Mother, they did not presume to molest me. If I had been
+of the Temper then, that I am now, I should not have so soon forgot the
+Loss I suffer'd; for, besides a good She-Friend, which is a rare and
+precious Thing, I lost the Hopes of a splendid Fortune.
+
+I know not how it came into my Head, to entertain you with my _quondam_
+Amours. But 'tis a Vein of Prating which I am indulg'd in, more by you
+than by any body. Farewel, my Dear, you will hear no more of me about this
+Country, for I am preparing to quit it the very first Opportunity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Brussels, June 4, 1732._
+
+When I left _Paris_, I kept on the Pavement all the Way to Chantilly,
+which may pass for the finest Seat in the Kingdom, since the great
+Additions made to it by the Duke of _Bourbon_, who is the Lord of it. The
+Forest likewise, of _Chantilly_, is as fine as any thing that ever Art and
+Nature form'd. 'Tis a magnificent Palace, the Stables are stately, and the
+Park is adorned with the finest Pieces of Water in the World. _Lewis_ XIV,
+who was always very desirous of being the Master of this House, wanted to
+purchase it of the late Prince. The latter made Answer to him, That it was
+at his Service, only he begged him, he would make him the Keeper of it
+from that Moment. The King perceived, that the Prince resigned it to him
+with some Reluctance, and therefore spoke no more of it.
+
+The Duke _de Bourbon_, who is certainly the richest Prince in _Europe_,
+that is not a Sovereign, lives very much at CHANTILLY, since he is no
+longer in the Ministry. There is always a very numerous Court, and he
+lives there more like a King, than a Prince of the Blood.
+
+After having walked sufficiently about _Chantilly_, I went and lay at
+_Senlis_, and next Day arrived in good Time at CAMBRAY, a City famous upon
+several Accounts; but its Beauty does not answer its Reputation.
+_Cambray_, the Capital of the _Cambresis_, was formerly an Imperial City,
+and its Archbishop was a Sovereign and Prince of the Empire. _France_
+having seized _Cambray_, there remains nothing more to the Archbishop, of
+so many fine Prerogatives, but the empty Title of a Prince of the Empire;
+which he still retains, tho' he has no Vote nor Session at the Diet. Since
+1712, that I came for the first Time into _France_, the Church of
+_Cambray_ has had four Archbishops. I then found the See possessed by the
+Illustrious _Francis de Salignac de la Mothe Fenelon_, Preceptor of the
+late Duke of _Burgundy_, Father of _Lewis_ XV. He had for his Successor
+_John d'Estr�es_; but the latter died before he had taken Possession of
+the Archbishoprick. The celebrated Cardinal _Dubois_ succeeded to him; but
+he did not enjoy that Dignity long, for he died at _Versailles_ the 10th
+of _August_ 1723. The Abb� _de S. Albin_, the natural Son of the Duke of
+_Orleans_, the Regent, was appointed Archbishop of _Cambray_ at an Age
+when he had need of Dispensations from _Rome_, to qualify himself for that
+Dignity.
+
+I think 'twill not be impertinent to make some little mention of the
+Cardinal _Dubois_, and, perhaps, you will not be sorry to hear a few
+Particulars of him. In the first Place, these were his Titles; William
+_Cardinal_ Dubois, _Priest Archbishop and Duke of_ Cambray, _Prince of
+the Holy Empire, Count of the_ Cambresis, _Abbat of_ St. Just de Nogent
+_under_ Couffy, _of_ Bourgueil, Airvaux, Cercamps, St. Winoxberg, _and_
+St. Bertin _of_ St. Omer; _Principal and Prime Minister, and Secretary of
+State for Foreign Affairs_; _Great Master and Superintendant General of
+the Couriers, Posts and Relays of_ France; _one of the forty Members of
+the_ French _Academy and that of the Belles Lettres_: _And chose by the
+Prelates and other Deputies at the General Assembly of the Clergy of_
+France, _to be their first President_.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ was not of extraordinary Extraction, but was born
+with great Talents, and an uncommon Genius. He was Preceptor to the Duke
+of _Orleans_, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; which was the Reason that
+the Prince and he were so well acquainted with each other's Thoughts, that
+the least Sign given by the One, was understood by the other. The Abbat
+_Dubois_ was employed in the Negociations of Peace in _England_, and at
+_Utrecht_. When the Duke of _Orleans_ came to be Regent, he sent him to
+take care of the King's Interests at the Court of King _George_ I. of
+_Great Britain_; with whom he concluded the famous Treaty of the Quadruple
+Alliance. When the King came of Age, the Regent being desirous to have a
+first Minister that he could confide in, chose the Abbat _Dubois_, whom he
+first made an Archbishop, and then obtain'd a Cardinal's Hat for him. 'Tis
+said, that the Cardinal was beginning to forget his Obligations to his
+Benefactor, and thinking to shake off all Submission to him, when he died
+at _Versailles_, after having enjoyed his splendid Fortune but a few
+Years. His Illness was of no long Continuance, but very painful. _La
+Peyrome_, the King's chief Surgeon, made an Operation upon him for a
+Disorder which the Cardinal's Enemies ascribe to his Incontinence, before
+he was Archbishop. He dreaded the Operation very much, and was loth to
+undergo it, tho' the Surgeons assured him, that nothing else could save
+his Life. The Duke of _Orleans_, to whom the Minister's Life was dear,
+made use of his Authority, and obliged the Cardinal to submit to the
+Operation, which did not answer his Royal Highness's Hopes; for in a few
+Days after it, his Favourite died. The Eagerness with which the Duke of
+_Orleans_ seized the Ministry, confirmed the Public in their Opinion, that
+the Cardinal had entertained a Thought of asserting his own Independency.
+
+The Cardinal was not much lamented; for he was blunt, violent and
+outrageous; which was not the Way to acquire the Good-will of a Nation,
+which loves that Decency and Politeness should be kept up in every Thing.
+Satire, or, if you please, Calumny, gave it out, that the Cardinal was
+married at _Tours_, when he was made Archbishop, and that his Wife liv'd
+in that City; that he gave it in Charge to M. _de Breteuil_, the Intendant
+of _Tours_, to prevail upon her, if possible, not to discover that she was
+his Wife; but that she refused to relinquish the Advantage; that thereupon
+M. _de Breteuil_ sent for the Parish Register where the Marriage was
+solemnized, and tore out the Leaf in which their Names were entered; and
+that the Woman was going to make a great Noise, but was threatened with
+Confinement, and by that Means obliged to be silent.
+
+I will not engage for the Truth of all, or any Part of this Story; but
+'tis what the scandalous Chronicle has given out, and what has reach'd
+even to _Rome_; so that when it was told to the late Pope, with a great
+many other Passages concerning the Cardinal, he was heartily vexed, that
+he had advanced him to the Purple; and I have been assured, that it was
+such a Grief to the Holy Father, that it help'd to shorten his Days.
+
+The Duchess _de F----_ was with the Cardinal one Day, when being in one of
+his sullen Moods, his Eminency, in plain Terms, bade her _go and pick
+Violets_. The Lady complaining of him to the Duke of _Orleans_, the
+Regent, the Prince made Answer, _You are much in the right_, Madame; _the
+Cardinal_ Dubois _is a Brute, but, nevertheless, he has a good
+Head-piece_.
+
+This Cardinal made a Compliment of much the same Nature to the Cardinal
+_de Noailles_, who telling him one Day as he came from an Audience of the
+Duke of _Orleans_, That the said Prince would not give Ear to his
+Representations, but bade him _go and ---- himself_, you understand the
+rest; the Cardinal _Dubois_ made Answer, _And really, Brother, the best
+Thing your Eminency can do, is to obey_.
+
+These Stories put me in mind of another that was current all over _Paris_,
+a little after the Cardinal _Dubois_ was advanced to the Purple. The
+Lacqueys of these two Cardinals happening to be at a certain Place
+together, they had a Dispute about their Master's Pre-eminency. _Our
+Master_, said the one, _is the oldest Cardinal, Duke and Peer, and a
+Commander of the Kings Orders_. The others said, _Ours is a Prince of the
+Empire, Duke of_ Cambray, _and Prime Minister_. _Ours_, replied the
+former, _consecrates Bishops; therefore, to be sure, he has the Preference
+above the Cardinal_ Dubois---- _A very pretty Argument this!_ said one of
+_Dubois's_ Lacqueys, _Why, if there's any thing in Consecration, my Master
+is the greater Lord, in that respect too: For yours may consecrate
+Bishops, but mine consecrates G-d every Day of his Life._ And, indeed; if
+the Fellow meant his Master's Swearing by all that's Sacred, he was not
+in the wrong; for the Cardinal had a very bad Habit of Swearing, like any
+Grenadier.
+
+The Cardinal left no great Estate behind him; and whether it was owing to
+his Disinterestedness, or to his want of Time to amass Wealth, his Fortune
+being but of a short Duration, his Heirs had not much Reason to rejoice at
+his Death. The Duke of _Orleans_ soon forgot him, and nothing preserved
+his Memory so long in _France_ itself, but certain Satires and Epitaphs
+made upon him by the Wits; which might have been transmitted, perhaps, to
+Posterity, if there had not been too much Gall in them. The Cardinal
+_Dubois_ lies interr'd in the Church of _St. Honore_, where his Brother
+was a Canon. This Clergyman set up a Marble Tomb for him, where the
+Cardinal is represented on his Knees, inclin'd towards the Altar of the
+Choir, but his Head seems to turn from it; upon which the Critics remark,
+that he durst not, since his Death, look towards what he had profan'd in
+his Life.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ obtained in Favour of _Cambray_, that the Congress
+should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor
+and _Spain_. The _French_ made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how
+much it was to the Honour of the Duke of _Orleans_, that all the Powers of
+_Europe_ should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his
+Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of
+_Soissons_. _They are come_, said the Court-Flatterers, _into our own
+Country, to desire Peace of us_. They were not so modest as the Allies
+were heretofore; for when _Lewis_ XIV. sent his Ambassadors to _Aix la
+Chapelle_, _Nimeguen_, _Ryswic_, _Gertruydenberg_, _Utrecht_, _Rastadt_,
+&c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the
+_French_ always said, _That they gave Peace to Europe_. Be this as it
+will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses
+that were held in their Country; which tho' both were opened with a World
+of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of _Vienna_, concluded
+the 19th of _April 1725_. O. S. put a Period to the _Cambray_ Congress;
+the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to
+nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the
+maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron _de Ripperda_,
+afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of _Spain_, and also Prime Minister
+to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so
+tir'd with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of _Cambray_, that he went to
+_Vienna_, with the Name of the Baron _de Puffenberg_, and established so
+strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was
+never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House
+of _Austria_ possessed the Throne of _Spain_. This very much eclipsed the
+Glory of the Congress of _Cambray_, and the Congress of _Soissons_
+received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of _Seville_.
+
+From _Cambray_, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in _French
+Flanders_, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The
+Governor of it is the Prince _de Tingry_, who is the Son of the famous
+Duke _de Luxembourg_, the Marshal of _France_; whose Honour our Writers
+have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence
+with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means.
+The Prince _de Tingry_ distinguished himself very much during the last
+War, by the Name of the Chevalier _de Luxembourg_. He contributed a great
+deal to the Support of _Lisle_ when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy
+of Powder into it in the Night-time. He is look'd upon by all the
+Officers, as one of the chief Generals in _France_. Considering his Birth,
+Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the
+Marshal's Staff a long time ago; and 'twas thought he would have been
+included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out[81]. He is
+now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his
+Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours
+to myself.
+
+Mons, the Capital City of _Hainault_, is not so large a City as
+_Valenciennes_, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a
+_French_ Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke
+_d'Aremberg_ is Governor both of this City, and of _Hainault_, of which he
+is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at _Brussels_, and never comes
+into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This
+Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and
+Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of _Hainault_, and of the City of
+_Mons_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the
+Halbardiers of the Emperor's Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he
+received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King _Charles_
+II. after his Father had been killed in _Hungary_. He is the only Nobleman
+in all the _Netherlands_, that has recognized the House of _Austria_
+alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late
+Marquis _de Grana_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, prevented him from
+engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the Advantages that
+were offered to her on the Part of _Philip_ V. After the _Netherlands_
+were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of
+_Ramillies_, the Duchess _d'Aremberg_ and her Son were the first to
+acknowledge King _Charles_ III. The Son had a _Flemish_ Regiment in that
+Prince's Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under
+my Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas under him and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his
+Valour, but particularly at the Battle of _Belgrade_. 'Tis certain, that
+if the Duke had stay'd longer at _Vienna_, he would have had some
+important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for
+a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders
+a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_
+lov'd and esteem'd him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to
+improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of
+_Brussels_, to the Tumult of the Court of _Vienna_.
+
+I don't mention the Battle of _Malplaquet_, which was fought in the
+Neighbourhood of _Mons_; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure,
+have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of
+upon other Occasions.
+
+From _Mons_ to _Brussels_, there's a famous Causey. We pass thro' _Halle_,
+whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and
+has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the
+House of _Austria_ have made great Presents.
+
+The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is
+the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally
+old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house,
+there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience
+of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and
+down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called
+the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care
+taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter'd with Dirt, or
+choak'd with Dust.
+
+The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious
+Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look
+like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not.
+The Archduchess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of
+_Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Nassau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder
+of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness
+prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more
+spacious and commodious, tho' 'twas offered her by the Duke _d'Aremberg_,
+who is the Proprietor of it.
+
+This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which
+was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were
+preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give
+the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the
+Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it
+without any Noise, but it mastered them. 'Twas four Hours, however, before
+it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the
+Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had
+been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion,
+and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such
+Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the
+Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the
+whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle;
+for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when
+she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant,
+her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a
+Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment
+that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog,
+and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in
+her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to
+retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempr�_, her Master of the Horse,
+whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed
+to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so
+much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which
+they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for
+_Rubempr�'s_ House was so near her own, that 'twas fear'd the Fire would
+have reach'd it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of
+_Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of
+her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempr�_ furnished
+her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with Shifts and other
+Apparel; and 'twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended
+from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the
+Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the
+Plate.
+
+Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary
+Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually
+encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily
+grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d'Uhlefeldt_, Lady of
+the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This
+unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by
+the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was
+snatch'd as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched
+from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the
+Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy
+the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her
+Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The
+whole Court was charm'd, to see with what Resignation she bore her
+Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God
+had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness
+honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be
+performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at
+which all the Nobility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry
+for the Loss of her.
+
+In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess's
+Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a
+Gold Toilet, were missing.
+
+The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor's three Sisters. She is
+jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and
+majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but
+with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into
+the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro' _Louvain_, she returned an Answer
+in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that
+Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine
+Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of
+Virtue and Piety. 'Tis impossible for any one living to be more
+charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the
+Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour
+at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a
+Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she
+bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her
+most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that 'tis no manner of
+Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.
+
+The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at
+_Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies
+wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her,
+and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least
+Disgust with any of her Domestics.
+
+Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a
+_Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity
+and Sincerity, impossible to be byass'd by any thing but Justice, a good
+[OE]conomist, and always disinterested. Tho' the People of this Country
+are not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they
+all agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is
+pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of
+Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to
+every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by
+Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He
+is good-natur'd, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an
+extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is
+universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt
+as his Master.
+
+M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be
+relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person
+of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a
+Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho' he
+had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the
+Emperor's Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to
+him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor's
+Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent
+Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first
+Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in
+order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess.
+I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is
+affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves
+Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his
+Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please
+the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out
+a great deal of Money with 'em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of
+_Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince
+expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from
+_Bavaria_. _The Archduchess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing,
+and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this
+Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred
+thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their
+Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her
+most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well,
+and keeps out of every body's Debt; which is what can't be said of any
+Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from
+these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make
+Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to
+every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few
+that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master
+would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of
+_Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight
+or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one
+that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now
+Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding
+the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the
+advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.
+
+The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the
+World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing.
+The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege
+of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg'd that Liberty,
+but 'twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as
+they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with
+the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _'Twas
+very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Brussels.
+
+The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose
+Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of
+being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but
+they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged,
+that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this
+Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not
+Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to
+the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as
+well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim'd the
+Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually
+presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better
+instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and
+told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to
+come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and
+for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at
+Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were
+apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now
+do as they ought.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are
+some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many,
+who, tho' they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to
+prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they
+were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_,
+_Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important
+Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve,
+it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the
+Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _'tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the
+Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so
+unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don't mention it
+to us. There's not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all,
+have Reason on their Side: For many of 'em, tho' they have never served
+the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to
+Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the
+_Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to
+blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to
+receive their Reward.
+
+It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho' few of the _Flemings_, under
+whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_,
+go to _Vienna_, 'tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The
+Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they
+live therefore with very great [OE]conomy, like private People. They
+seldom make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of 'em keeps an open Table.
+Yet there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_
+itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_,
+formerly assumed only the Title of _Excellency_; but since they have been
+under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and
+_Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the Title of _Highnesses_, which is
+given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it
+with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d'Aremberg_ is the only
+Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho' he is the
+Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.
+
+_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of
+_la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the
+_Netherlands_. When this Nobleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very
+great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality,
+and 'tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a
+Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and
+gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons
+of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a
+Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but 'tis attended with Envy. The
+Prince _de la Tour_, tho' not a Sovereign, is nobly ally'd. His Mother was
+a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a
+Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince
+_Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or
+Nobility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong.
+I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho' those of _la
+Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity
+of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so
+long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can't help thinking,
+that a Family, which has been ally'd for many Generations with the
+greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the
+Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank'd among our best Families in _Germany_.
+
+Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the
+Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very
+natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it
+were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted
+are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_
+discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that 'tis not surprising
+that she should honour her with her Confidence.
+
+I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not
+very gay, and I'll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull
+Taste. There's a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is
+horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so
+when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady,
+there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time
+of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing
+falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace,
+Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very
+great Perfection. _Lenir_'s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest
+for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with
+it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince
+_Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor
+_Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_,
+_France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine
+Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the _Israelites_
+worshipping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law.
+The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has
+made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent
+the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the
+Town-house, and worth seeing.
+
+Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor's Troops
+in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised
+by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is
+descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes
+the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has
+gone thro' all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great
+Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners
+very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary
+Expence.
+
+The Governor of _Brussels_ is the Marshal _de Wrangel_, a venerable old
+Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has
+gone thro' all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very
+rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good
+Table.
+
+The Prince _de Rubempr�_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most
+distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the
+Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman,
+and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_.
+
+The Prince of _Nassau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness's Band of
+Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger
+Brother of the Prince of _Nassau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of
+_William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, assumed the Title of Prince of
+_Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to
+the King. The Prince of _Nassau_, of whom I here make mention, was also
+formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis
+_de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the
+Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but
+his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he
+holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the
+Golden Fleece.
+
+I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so
+well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are
+continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to
+you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial
+Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have
+the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Liege, June 28, 1732._
+
+From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of
+_Flanders_, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_.
+The _Scheld_ passes thro' the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided
+into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Canals. 'Tis very
+large in Circumference, insomuch, that 'tis reported, the Emperor
+_Charles_ V. us'd to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86].
+This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained
+in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is
+decay'd, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The
+Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most
+notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were
+severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their
+Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed
+through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused
+twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a
+greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away
+their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a
+Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a
+Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of
+its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
+
+The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp,
+broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it
+very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place:
+Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say,
+that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep
+_Ghent_ than _Brussels_.
+
+I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have
+been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some
+of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron
+_de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a
+Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de
+Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess,
+Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and
+is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amusements there are in this Town, I
+cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no
+Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
+
+I went in the Bark along the Canal from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the
+most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a
+good Room, and with Company very happily mix'd. At Noon we had a Dinner
+served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_;
+where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. 'Tis a Rule in this Bark, for
+the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts
+pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of
+Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of
+the Juice of the Grape.
+
+BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues
+from the Sea, upon the Canal of _Reye_; which being divided into several
+navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes
+to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to _Bruges_
+of four hundred Tons. 'Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho' 'tis
+considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at
+_Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one
+of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent
+Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and
+open, with several large Squares, and there's no want of Inhabitants; but
+they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. 'Tis a hard matter for
+a Foreigner to get acquainted with 'em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally
+unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a
+_German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of
+_Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of
+being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at
+_Brussels_. And, as I don't care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately
+to OSTEND.
+
+This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three
+Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company
+established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_,
+however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for
+Pleasures. 'Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable
+that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very
+strong: 'Tis encompass'd with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks,
+and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due
+Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have
+been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every
+Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and
+_England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the
+_Netherlands_.
+
+NEWPORT, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_.
+'Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify'd, and can lay the Country
+under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a
+Degree, that there's never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one
+time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid
+unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the
+Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to
+do with their Time.
+
+As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one
+of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all
+_Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in
+Holland, and damask'd Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its
+Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a
+Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.
+_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals. The
+second is M. _Dickson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel's Commission, and
+is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he
+is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons
+of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to
+Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one
+another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house,
+where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I
+dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly,
+as to squeeze the Breath out of one another's Bodies.
+
+I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns
+belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Nassau
+Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the
+_Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this
+Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier
+Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor,
+and also to the States General his Masters. But I can't imagine how he
+would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
+should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may
+be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the
+_Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring
+her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the
+most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they
+were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that
+the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill
+defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there
+was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it
+to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the
+Breach, was answered, That 'twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless
+he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the
+Gate. There's no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and
+some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.
+
+LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a
+City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. 'Tis a large,
+fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav'd. It
+has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which
+discover its Riches. There's a new Town-house building here, in a bad
+Situation; but when finish'd, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de
+Bousslers_, whose Father acquir'd great Glory by his vigorous Defence of
+_Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine
+handsome young Nobleman, tho' of an under Size. He applies very much to
+the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in
+that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body
+speak well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I
+found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and
+amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too
+liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all
+her young Noblemen were like to him.
+
+There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de
+Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late
+Duchess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the
+Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there's abundance
+of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than
+ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another
+upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In
+Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living
+here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.
+
+You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies
+retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the
+Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the
+King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of
+_Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Cassel_, puts one in
+Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_
+and its Chatellany to the Emperor.
+
+Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there's a Concourse to it
+from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the
+Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and
+embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
+delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call'd me back to _Germany_, I
+should have stay'd here some time longer.
+
+I return'd again thro' _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_,
+surnam'd the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low
+Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _Noble_, _Ghent_
+the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the
+_Strong_; and so of the rest.
+
+ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_,
+stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our
+Lady's Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is
+worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which 'tis adorned. The
+Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller's Attention.
+This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening
+in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in
+Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their
+Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent
+Chapels, are still to be seen.
+
+The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of
+_Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil
+Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.
+
+_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. 'Twas formerly a City
+of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its
+Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is
+incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came
+to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak'd up by
+Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
+_Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_.
+Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely
+rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac'd and
+embroider'd Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to
+the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at
+_Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There's a charming
+Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend
+there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that
+is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together,
+you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.
+
+The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals, is Governor of
+_Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his
+House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he
+appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_,
+when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of
+Cardinal _Alberoni_.
+
+This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of _Antwerp_; from whence I
+went to MECHLIN, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth
+seeing. The Cardinal _de Bossu_, Brother of the Prince _de Chimay_, is its
+Archbishop, and the only one in the _Netherlands_, belonging to the House
+of _Austria_. You know, that at _Mechlin_ is held the Sovereign Council or
+Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and
+Solicitors here, and hears so many of the Quirks of the Law. There are
+few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.
+
+The Causey between _Mechlin_ and _Louvain_ is a new Piece of Work. Before
+this was cast up, the People of _Mechlin_ were obliged, in the
+Winter-time, to go thro' _Brussels_, in order to avoid the bad Roads,
+which was a great Way about.
+
+LOUVAIN is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students,
+Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I
+only pass'd quite thro' the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and
+I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are
+the most unpolish'd of all the _Netherlands_. One of the grand Privileges
+of the University of _Louvain_, is a Nomination to a great Number of
+Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of
+the _Netherlands_, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence,
+that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments
+they have no Knowledge. Mr. _Strickland_, by Birth an _Englishman_, and
+Bishop of _Namur_, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair
+determined at _Rome_. But I'll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more
+than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.
+
+There's a very good Pavement from _Louvain_ to _Tirlemont_, which is a
+Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so
+that I brush'd thro' it, and went and lay at MAESTRICHT, one of the best
+and strongest Places in _Europe_, belonging to the _Dutch_; to whom
+_Spain_ abandoned it by the Peace of _Munster_. The _French_ Army took it
+in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The _Dutch_
+Propriety in it was recogniz'd by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and they
+maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince _William_
+of _Hesse Cassel_, Brother to the King of _Sweden_; but since the Death of
+the Landgrave of _Hesse_, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the
+said Landgraviate, resides no longer at _Maestricht_; which is a Loss to
+this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv'd with all the Dignity
+answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during
+his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] _d'Amerongen_.
+
+The Walks about _Maestricht_, especially those on the Ramparts, are
+charming; for there's no want of good Company, and 'tis the genteelest of
+all the Garisons that belong to the _Dutch_. 'Tis a very pretty Town, with
+beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well
+as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is
+remarkable in all the Towns of _Holland_. The _Maese_ passes thro' this
+Town, and over it there's a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured
+for a Truth, the late Marshal _d'Auverquerque_, when a young Man, leaped
+his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle _de Feldtbruck_, how
+sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and
+Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked
+upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did
+not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the
+Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to
+keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade
+with him to the Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he
+reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his
+Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
+
+I stay'd a few Days at _Maestricht_, which City put me in Mind of my
+Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector _Frederic_ of
+_Brandenbourg_. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new
+Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion
+wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for
+him.
+
+The City of LIEGE is about five Leagues from _Maestricht_. A Vessel goes
+thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so
+rapid as the _Maese_, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is
+what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
+
+The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that _Liege_ was built by
+that _Ambiorix_ King of the _Eburons_, a great Enemy of the _Romans_ who
+cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of _C�sar's_
+Lieutenants; for which Affront, _C�sar_ afterwards took a sweet Revenge.
+But be this as it will, 'tis certain that _Liege_ is a very ancient City.
+'Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley,
+encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro'
+which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the _Maese_, which passes
+thro' the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. _Lambert_, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of
+Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are
+included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or
+_Tressonciers_, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the
+Doctor's Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will,
+comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of _Germany_.
+
+The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of _Liege_ is ancient. It has large
+Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not
+airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of
+_Berg_. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector
+of _Cologne_, and the Cardinal of _Saxe Zeits_; but he had the good Luck
+to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased
+with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs
+with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of
+very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his
+Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always
+distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a
+_Capuchin_ to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father
+was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to
+their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This _Capuchin_ Minister died without
+being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince's Domestics. He is
+succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another _Capuchin_; but his
+Authority is more limited.
+
+The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at
+_Serai_, a Country House a small League from _Liege_, on the Banks of the
+_Maese_, towards _Huy_, where he has seldom any body with him but his
+Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber.
+His Table is not so sumptuous as 'tis elegant; his Liveries are very
+modest, his Guards but few, and cloath'd exactly alike. He has rais'd a
+Regiment of Guards, of which the Count _de Beaufort_, Brother to the
+Governor of _Charleroy_, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the
+old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has
+been intirely ruin'd and demolish'd, since it was besieg'd and taken by my
+Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the
+Citadel of _Liege_ shall not be rebuilt.
+
+You know, that the Episcopal See of _Liege_ was formerly at _Tongres_; of
+which, they say, that _Maternus_, sent by St. _Peter_, was the first
+Bishop. The See was transferr'd by his Successors, first to _Maestricht_,
+and then to _Liege_.
+
+There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love
+Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and
+have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. _Paul's_
+Church here would be admir'd, even in _Rome_ itself. Divine Service is
+perform'd in it with very great Regularity; and 'tis impossible not to be
+edify'd by it, the _Roman_ Ritual being observed in every Particular.
+
+The Pleasures of _Liege_ consist very much in Drinking, for there's little
+Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the
+Tavern, where there are good _Bar_ and _Burgundy_ Wines, and a sort of
+Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of _Liege_
+go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great
+Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies
+commonly end like the _Italian_ Comedies. The _Liegeois_ are accused of
+being insincere, and are called, _the_ Italians _of the_ Netherlands. They
+drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are
+Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive, that they think any sort of
+Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that
+the Country of _Liege_ alone furnishes the Chamber of _Wetzlar_ with more
+Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever
+conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none,
+whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho' I shall ever esteem the
+honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter
+not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the _Liegeois_,
+who appeared to me such as I have describ'd them; and if I wrong them, I
+ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases,
+and for my own part, I shall be overjoy'd to hear of any Merit found among
+them.
+
+The Country of _Liege_ is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except
+Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron
+and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth
+proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable,
+because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the _English_
+Coal, and renders _Liege_, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as
+_London_.
+
+The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who
+are not always of the Prince's Opinion. In this Country are reckon'd fifty
+Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall'd Towns, and near
+fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.
+
+I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at _Spa_, where I
+hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._
+
+The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place
+itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are
+not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil
+myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which
+they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are
+several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all
+Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of
+_Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every
+Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the
+human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which
+must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a
+little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the
+Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring
+is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which
+Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name.
+The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own
+Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely,
+that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks
+successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even
+go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied
+himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He
+would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He
+complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look'd very well, eat
+heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I
+thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner.
+I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from
+the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy'd to renew my Acquaintance there with
+Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho' I am
+extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I
+cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and
+more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.
+
+In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the
+Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital
+in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one
+of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it
+was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred
+Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has
+a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants
+are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal
+of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great
+Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many
+Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of
+_England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four
+Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks
+and Mountains.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to
+_Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say,
+that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by
+the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_
+caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_,
+Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors
+crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given
+an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church
+of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be
+of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.
+
+The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That
+during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross
+over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice
+which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given
+them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of
+_Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_'s Confessor. When the Electors were going to
+take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre
+which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who
+did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the
+Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_'s
+Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all
+the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the
+Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the
+Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the
+Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to
+tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this
+Transaction, tho' white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to
+the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond
+Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my
+Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his
+pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but
+it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he
+met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a
+Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the
+Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest
+upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the
+Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_,
+Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal
+of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be
+chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest
+Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed
+_Rodolph_'s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_,
+that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it;
+_Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the
+_Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_
+Line.
+
+The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_
+III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops
+attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt,
+a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a
+Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give
+as much, or as little Credit as you please. 'Tis, that God, in order fully
+to answer _Charlemagne_'s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of
+Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St.
+_Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time,
+and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear
+visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope's
+Blessing; after which they vanish'd. But I think, without pretending to
+dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they
+ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than
+the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to
+doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I
+saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in
+the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise,
+and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb
+there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to
+the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_.
+
+_Excitus b�c arc�_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se
+reddit uterque Hierarcha._
+
+After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must
+be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to
+give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady's
+Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great
+Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from
+all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only
+exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the
+Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having
+been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of 'em return Home, without being
+able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is
+the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord.
+Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the
+People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form
+of one of those Proclamations.
+
+                         At the first RELIQUE.
+
+    We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the
+    Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the
+    Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus
+    Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God,
+    that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that
+    the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we
+    may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
+
+The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.
+
+In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of
+Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider'd with Pearls, and other
+sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which
+_Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. 'Tis
+of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold;
+but what's become of 'em, I know not. 'Tis in this Chair that the King of
+the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here
+the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first
+Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and
+the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a
+great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given
+by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that
+Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church's
+Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.
+
+The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which
+was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired;
+so that 'tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new
+Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome
+Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and
+there's very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season;
+but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess
+_de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The
+last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been
+a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of
+_Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation.
+He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.
+
+Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there's none of more
+agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being
+perfectly good. There's the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where
+the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their
+Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well
+furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season,
+hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.
+
+From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro' a
+very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one
+ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro' JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy
+of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to
+overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius C�sar_
+caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to
+_Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either.
+There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I
+thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or
+Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, 'tis to be hoped, is in a better
+State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the
+General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_.
+The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the
+_Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place;
+and 'tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches
+in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the
+Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, 'tis hardly supposed that the King
+of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just
+Pretensions.
+
+COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_.
+There's nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be
+seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song.
+The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was
+born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal
+Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its
+Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. 'Twere to
+be wish'd, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it
+into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more
+Houses than Families. For 'tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a
+whole House to himself.
+
+If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number
+of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth;
+for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year.
+The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle
+St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most
+magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does
+no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in
+_Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who
+must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some
+Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than
+the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were
+brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the
+City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as
+the sacred Reliques had pass'd, that nothing might profane it. The
+Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of
+_Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it
+would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a
+Company of the Burghers.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere;
+but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_
+Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the
+old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a
+Kin to the Holy Virgin.
+
+The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City;
+nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice
+here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no
+manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared
+among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses,
+and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are
+very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The
+Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in
+_Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of
+'em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired,
+they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are
+Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and
+drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have
+not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_
+Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.
+
+There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City,
+particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into
+the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day
+before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson's_[91]
+Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de
+Medicis_ lodg'd, while she liv'd here, and where she died in a Condition
+so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human
+Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap'd
+Riches and Honour, not content with having banish'd her out of the
+Kingdom, abandon'd her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv'd
+in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the
+Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the
+Ministry, retir'd likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of
+_France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat
+it.
+
+I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have
+seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It
+maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the
+Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all
+Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because
+when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged
+to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search'd, and every thing
+turn'd topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of
+putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put
+all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to
+drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you
+shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ
+from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct
+Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of
+the Public.
+
+There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the
+City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_,
+about half a League off.
+
+I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour.
+He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the
+_Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough
+before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time,
+and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him
+in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the
+Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that
+cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my
+next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I
+am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Bonn, July 30, 1732._
+
+As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that
+time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from
+_Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro' one of the finest Roads in
+the World, well-pav'd and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain,
+encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very
+ancient, that _Florus_ tells us 'twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned
+say, 'tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention'd by _Tacitus_. Be
+this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the
+_Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at
+all, when the Court is not there. 'Twas heretofore very well fortify'd,
+and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it
+at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and
+lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_
+Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary
+manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and
+Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had
+forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as
+were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that
+was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding
+Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the
+Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice
+to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of
+it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well 'twas his Due, but
+that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great
+Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation
+to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all
+Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure
+him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of
+Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to
+continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and,
+perhaps, hurry'd by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector's
+Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days
+after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.
+
+During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce
+a House was left standing; for the Baron _d'Asfeldt_, who commanded in the
+Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a
+Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.
+
+This City was again besieg'd in 1703, by my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_,
+who obliged the Marquis[93] _d'Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to
+capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector
+_Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn
+them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own
+Territories.
+
+This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a
+sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy'd in the last Siege, were not
+yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair
+of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old
+Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and
+built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of
+the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to
+Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish'd, has spacious
+Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn'd, and nobly furnish'd. The
+Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth
+seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord's
+Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon'd
+the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_,
+caused them to be made.
+
+The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded
+by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of
+the Holy Martyrs _Cassius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_
+Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the
+Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the
+Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so
+very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church
+of _Rome_.
+
+Tho' the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet
+he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three
+Leagues out of Town; which, tho' not very large, has very fine Apartments,
+adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The
+Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine
+when finish'd.
+
+The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a
+League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built
+in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the
+present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ
+the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there's a
+Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.
+
+All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are
+moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here,
+than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is
+decaying.
+
+After having walk'd about here a great deal, expecting the Elector's
+Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_
+his Brother. He was welcom'd with the Discharge of the Cannon, and
+complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return,
+and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the _Teutonic_ Order.
+Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress'd in a Lay
+Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the
+Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of
+the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as
+Grand Master of a Military Order.
+
+His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called _Clement Augustus_;
+for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves
+Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit
+of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an
+Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly
+descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes
+his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards,
+with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native
+of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General
+in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke
+_Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who
+was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now
+the Elector's Prime Minister, who was then purely attach'd to that Prince,
+from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke
+_Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those
+two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop.
+This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope's own Hand, at _Rome_; and
+afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after
+this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be
+appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement
+Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of _Hildesheim_.
+After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of
+_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for
+Successor to that Prince's Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand
+Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights,
+who have Commanderies in that Order.
+
+The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of
+such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they,
+_one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the
+like in all our Annals; 'tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I
+am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so
+or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and
+even more Benefices; and that 'tis for the Welfare and Interest of the
+Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal
+of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and
+_Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it
+was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the
+Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho' not a
+Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry
+against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector
+should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to
+the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_.
+
+Tho' I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the
+Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the
+contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several
+Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by
+the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them,
+separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the
+Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being
+united under one Head, they are a formidable State.
+
+_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_
+Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they
+don't consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of
+_Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would
+never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But
+admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic,
+what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and
+particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang'd since his Death. The
+Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters
+of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the
+best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics,
+on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions
+impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.
+Therefore, I say it again, 'tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the
+Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute
+their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church
+with an able Protector.
+
+Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious
+Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both
+Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de
+Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish'd Rank for
+a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of
+_Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and
+M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been
+promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy
+Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the
+Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the
+Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_
+is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be
+ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor's
+Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the
+Elector of _Cologne_'s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime
+Minister.
+
+Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the
+Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. 'Twas this
+Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose,
+first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of
+_Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being
+elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his
+Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps,
+have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he
+apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step:
+But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and
+by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the
+Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services,
+performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject,
+could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the
+Elector's intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The
+Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His
+Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He
+has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in
+their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the
+First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce
+presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour
+itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which
+only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears
+attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without
+affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent,
+vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o'Clock
+every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a
+magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there
+is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have
+Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to
+the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the
+Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and
+Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he
+is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His
+Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of
+excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of
+his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_,
+where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the
+Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens
+to it, which will not easily be match'd in _Germany_. This Minister has an
+only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is
+already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and
+Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count
+_de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to
+follow, and his Example to imitate.
+
+There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The
+Baron _de Nothasst_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the
+Elector's Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The
+Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the
+Elector's Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to
+Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in
+the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_.
+His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy
+Father's Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_
+Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which
+Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of
+several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his
+Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography,
+and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the
+State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the
+Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to
+the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God,
+whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into
+Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a
+Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest's Orders. He said his first
+Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of
+_Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year
+ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the
+Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every
+body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that 'twere to be wished
+all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to
+God, and the World.
+
+The Elector's Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two
+Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Nothasst_ is Commander
+in chief of those Troops, which, tho' but a Handful, are sufficient for
+the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified
+heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.
+
+In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_
+governs with the Title of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral
+Palace, and is served by the Elector's Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_
+is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies
+at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the
+Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure.
+In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._
+
+I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the
+disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not
+fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a
+little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the
+_Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is
+made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The
+_Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great
+Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for
+_Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and
+arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the
+Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for
+_Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of
+the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank
+with Wine.
+
+A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an
+abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his
+Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is
+haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met
+with, more or less, in all Countries.
+
+The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where
+the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too,
+are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de
+Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to
+be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.
+
+The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to
+_Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give
+me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are
+cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly
+take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of
+Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages.
+
+The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_,
+at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley
+surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and
+Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to
+them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several
+Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_,
+the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very
+rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look
+upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a
+Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is
+to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de
+Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a
+lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.
+
+The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of
+_Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it
+impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is
+situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by
+itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of
+Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which,
+they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to
+be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of
+_Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much
+pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes
+but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very
+much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_,
+where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a
+Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.
+
+The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_,
+who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the
+Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and
+Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of
+_Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of
+_Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect:
+He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a
+very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his
+Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his
+Houshold not large.
+
+From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle
+of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_.
+The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and
+claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family
+of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the
+Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and
+the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A
+Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the
+_Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the
+_Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.
+
+As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is
+given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is
+reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there's
+no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine;
+which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the
+Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the
+midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to
+Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him
+from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a
+considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth
+of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous
+Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames,
+ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable
+soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it
+were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I
+questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of
+it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that
+this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a
+Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in
+which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire
+to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats.
+
+The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought
+to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion
+of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of
+_Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to
+celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in
+request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but
+wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine
+that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth
+nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of
+_Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the
+Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good,
+and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.
+
+From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of
+the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in
+the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five
+hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City,
+in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of
+_Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as
+it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in
+the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a
+Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a
+greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and
+Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that
+eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose
+unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the
+Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in
+the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the
+late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic
+Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the
+whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour,
+and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_,
+whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was
+also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long
+time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd
+it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it
+may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had
+begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then
+commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to
+sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of
+_Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works,
+cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others
+of Stone erected in their stead.
+
+The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some
+fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_,
+_Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better
+Situation.
+
+The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing
+remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember
+to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time
+there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned
+with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were
+engraved;
+
+             _Auri sexcentas habet h�c crux aurea libras._
+
+Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure
+you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely
+of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it.
+
+The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was
+answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are
+commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.
+
+That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the
+_Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its
+Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very
+neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The
+Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which
+represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric
+fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a
+Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a
+perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of
+which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but
+neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they
+devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or
+employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and
+industrious Occupations.
+
+It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they
+always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women,
+and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as
+that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it
+any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.
+
+At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill,
+is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector.
+_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the
+Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a
+Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole
+are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little
+Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it,
+disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of
+the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the
+other Side of those Rivers.
+
+For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject
+to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of
+Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.
+The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of
+the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is
+to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the
+Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while
+these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the
+neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.
+
+I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a
+little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to
+the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very
+much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I
+am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the
+sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it
+would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the
+Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same
+as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater
+Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without
+Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and
+it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of
+fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which
+really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at
+which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes
+here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.
+
+SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that
+consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of
+_Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they
+use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves,
+and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they
+don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.
+
+This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its
+Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be
+gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as
+I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from
+whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope
+to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._
+
+At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three
+Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I passed over a flying Bridge,
+between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. 'Twas founded
+by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing
+magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it.
+All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such
+as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they
+dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well
+decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect
+of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble
+Scenes to View.
+
+From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a
+fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its
+Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been
+obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a
+small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had
+undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call
+the _New-Town_; but that Prince's Death, and the Absence of the Court, put
+a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but
+'tis carried on so slowly, that 'twill take up a great deal of Time to
+finish it.
+
+The Elector's Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but
+a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or
+Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in
+the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of
+Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by
+that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de
+Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince's having taken him out of
+_Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The
+Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but
+most of 'em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains
+Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with
+the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died
+lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures
+sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave
+him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand
+Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing,
+or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and
+the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more
+beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Passion
+of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector
+_John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of
+_Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector's Wife, which Princess is
+represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The
+fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces
+by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di
+Cortona_, _Guido_, _Titian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_,
+_Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_,
+_Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious
+in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are
+distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the
+utmost Perfection, copy'd, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed
+upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with
+excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of
+other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery
+truly magnificent.
+
+Under these Rooms there's another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and
+Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_
+and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector
+_John-William_, with very great Care and Expence.
+
+In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector's Equestrian
+Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral
+Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not
+answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking
+Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very
+wretched Figure; tho' 'tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a
+Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine
+Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole
+Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even
+without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of
+_Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the
+World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.
+He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and
+Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his
+Good-nature render'd him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and
+the Darling of his Subjects.
+
+This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes,
+who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._
+_Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_,
+_Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of
+_Hesse Cassel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the
+King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they
+are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of
+their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to
+the latest Posterity.
+
+The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_,
+there's a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is
+the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on
+it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay
+any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.
+All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular
+Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.
+The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful
+Convent here. There's a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth
+seeing. 'Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and
+adorned with very fine Paintings. 'Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of
+_John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.
+
+Tho' the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good
+Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.
+There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de
+Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a
+Court.
+
+I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance,
+which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From
+thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the
+Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but
+indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only
+remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_,
+is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that's
+good.
+
+After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats,
+I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the
+King of _Prussia_: 'Tis regularly fortify'd, and has a very good Citadel
+towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the
+first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King
+_Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.
+M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those
+Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to
+M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render
+_Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town
+more particularly deserves a Traveller's Attention, than the _Berlin_
+Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or
+more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is
+extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or
+Ammunition.
+
+In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous
+City, but now very much decay'd. The Catholic Church is a beautiful
+Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which
+the Natives pay great Devotion.
+
+'Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro' one continued Range
+of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town
+is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King's Palace is ancient,
+yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.
+There's nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these
+Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_,
+coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the
+Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he
+wish'd _Versailles_ was as well situate.
+
+_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which
+is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of
+his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil,
+and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.
+
+There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the
+Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very
+handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the
+Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour
+to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never
+was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same
+Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole
+Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to
+remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his
+Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no
+Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don't
+know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was
+at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came
+hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to
+come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was
+formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had
+Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what
+has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other
+Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well
+acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again
+so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great
+many Facts to tell you, which 'tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.
+I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER L.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                   _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._
+
+Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had
+it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I
+should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I
+thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other
+Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send
+you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what
+others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these
+Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best
+manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.
+
+From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_,
+and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of
+_Prussia_; from which 'tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on
+the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of
+the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or
+_Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the
+Time when the Republic seem'd ready to sink under the Weight of their
+Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify'd; so that 'tis now a
+Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign'd
+here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next
+Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and
+_France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is
+much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there's a Prospect of a
+great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest
+Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords.
+
+After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or
+five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is
+very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of
+Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or
+the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather,
+because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made,
+that a little Matter turns 'em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the
+Inventor of 'em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the
+most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to
+yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step,
+placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The
+Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread
+over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one's Head
+against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the
+Entrance of _Proserpine_ into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by
+which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing
+one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his
+Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are
+stow'd in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination,
+makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers.
+
+'Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to
+RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time
+been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector
+_Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to
+be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir
+to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said
+_Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which
+the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in
+his Journies to and from _Hanover_.
+
+The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean
+that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather
+they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by
+consequence, not passable when it has rain'd.
+
+As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are
+several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of
+_Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a
+Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most
+considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count
+of _Nassau_, Son of the late Mons. _d'Odyck_, distinguished in the
+Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his
+Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven
+Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman's Palace. It has fine
+Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when
+that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The
+Count _de Nassau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more
+agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because
+that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its
+Allies.
+
+The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of
+_Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance
+of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can
+only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed,
+would not want for Magnificence.
+
+The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to
+the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which
+_Lewis_ XIV. so admir'd upon Account of its Walks, that he wish'd he
+could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut
+down the Trees.
+
+UTRECHT, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of
+_Jericho_, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of _Israel_,
+were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did
+not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to
+carry their Keys to the King of _France_, notwithstanding the Offers made
+to them by the Prince of _Orange_, to defend the Place. _Lewis_ XIV.
+entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very
+short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That
+in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground;
+and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to
+place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his
+Majesty came by. If this Circumstance is true, they who possessed the King
+with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the _Dutch_, who, 'tis possible,
+might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a
+Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to
+fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character.
+
+The Streets of _Utrecht_ are spacious and very airy, its Houses pleasant
+and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the
+Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to
+_Charles_ II. King of _Spain_. This City, next to the _Hague_, is the most
+agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here's a great Number, as well
+as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for
+the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir'd.
+
+The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its
+Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for
+Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies
+of Dragoons. The Court of _Rome_ always nominates the Archbishop, who
+commonly resides at _Amsterdam_. I think the Person who enjoys
+this[101]Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but 'tis probable he has
+no View to a Cardinal's Cap, he being a declared _Jansenist_. The
+_Carthusians_ who retired from _France_ under the specious Pretext of
+securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese,
+where they live in two separate Convents not very far from _Utrecht_, and
+are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in _France_, about
+the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the
+Protestants, who did not think they differ'd very widely from their
+Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur _Paris_ pass for a
+Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has
+been conceiv'd of 'em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for
+these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who
+increase the Number of 'em. Be this as it will, 'tis allow'd by every
+body, even by the most zealous _Roman_ Catholics, that setting aside their
+Religious Sentiments, there's no Fault to be found with their Morals and
+Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the
+Convent which they have abandoned.
+
+The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may
+believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it:
+Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are
+neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the
+Ambassadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho' it was not for want of Money,
+insomuch that several of 'em might have purchased the Houses they lived
+in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the
+Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me
+in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three
+Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of
+the Republic. _Nimeguen_, said they, signified NEIM-WEG (_Take all_),
+_Reiswick_, REIS-WEG (_Pluck up all_), and _Utrecht_, AUSSER RECHT
+(_Witbout Right_). If every Thing be fairly examin'd, all this perhaps may
+be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies.
+
+I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from
+_Utrecht_ to _Amsterdam_, which is not only the most commodious, but the
+best regulated, and the cheapest Passage in _Europe_. One knows to a
+Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets
+into Port. If you agree for the _Rous_ or Cabin, one is alone, or with
+what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to
+_Utrecht_, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came
+out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Canal which
+carried me to _Amsterdam_ presents a thousand agreeable Objects to View,
+being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent
+Gardens, Meadows and Villages.
+
+After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the
+Inhabitants, I am arrived at AMSTERDAM, that modern _Tyre_, the Mistress
+of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest,
+and most wealthy Cities in _Europe_. It contains both sacred and profane
+Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely)
+retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in
+the Buildings of _Venice_ and _Genoa_, which are of a sublimer Taste,
+because the Nobility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be
+truly great and noble at _Amsterdam_, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks,
+and the broad and deep Ditches with which 'tis encompassed.
+
+_Amsterdam_ is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any
+measure to _Venice_. For tho' 'tis not built as _Venice_ is, in the midst
+of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like _Venice_ it consists
+of a vast Number of Islands, and its principal Streets have Canals, with
+the Adventage of spacious Kays at their Doors, fenc'd with Trees; whereas
+at _Venice_, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be
+all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as
+to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one _Canal
+Grande_, and one _Canal Reggio_, being worth more in this respect than all
+_Amsterdam_. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat,
+genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of
+Brick. Heretofore the _Amsterdammers_ Manner of Building was very
+extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon
+Stilts, which I explain thus: The Front of the first Floor, upon the
+Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars
+that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for
+them, is very slight; for there's seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in
+Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in
+the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is
+overheard in the second. I don't criticize the Manner of the Distribution
+of their Rooms; tho', to be plain, their Architects know no more of this
+Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of
+them smoaky. 'Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded
+by it, and that they might even do without them[102]. For the Women warm
+themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen
+Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor'd in it, which they keep
+under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her
+Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined
+with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick
+Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove
+as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is
+seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and
+I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who
+don't boil the Pot above once a Week: For there's no Nation in the World
+that feeds worse than the _Dutch_, and particularly the _Amsterdammers_,
+Butter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet.
+
+But I have deviated from the Article I was upon, touching their Manner of
+Building. I cannot conceive how 'tis possible for Houses that are so
+slight to stand: And there are some that perfectly totter from Side to
+Side; but I had rather see a Woman dance, than a House. A great Number of
+those Houses have lately been set upright. One of those Pinacles, in Form
+of a Sugar-loaf, which is at the Top of most of the old Houses, unhappily
+fell down and kill'd three Persons that were passing along the Street:
+Whereupon the Government, out of their great Care to prevent all such
+Accidents for the future, ordered the Landlords of every House to cause
+those staggering Pyramids to be pulled down: This has had two good
+Effects; for People are not so liable to be knock'd o'the Head, and the
+Town looks handsomer. The principal Ornament of the Houses is their
+Windows, there being scarce a Country that has finer Glazing, and many of
+the Houses have Windows of polish'd Plate-glass. But in some Palaces of
+_Venice_ or _Genoa_, the Paintings and Gildings only of the Ceilings are
+worth more than the finest House in _Amsterdam_. Yet I don't deny but
+there are Houses here, in the Rearing of which no Cost has been spar'd,
+but in general they are small. There are scarce any that have above five
+Windows in Front, others have four, and the greatest Part three. The Entry
+is by Steps of black Marble or Stone. To the Houses of the common Size,
+there's a very narrow Entry pav'd with white Marble, with which the Walls
+are often fac'd, at least to a certain Height. The Apartment consists
+generally of two Rooms on a Floor, a little Court behind it, and a second
+Pile of Building, which is but one Room in Depth, and has Lights towards
+the Garden. At _Venice_ and _Genoa_, a Merchant (for I set the Nobles
+aside) will have at least an Apartment of three or four Rooms. At
+_Amsterdam_ the Furniture is neatest, and in _Italy_ the richest. Here one
+shall find a curious Piece of _Flemish_ Tapestry, a Closet of Pictures,
+fine Glass, a great deal of _China_ Ware, and curious Toys from the
+_Indies_; the Floor shall be covered with fine _Persian_ Carpets; but you
+shan't see any Furniture of Velvet embroidered with Gold, no Lustres of
+Rock-Crystal, no great Collection of Paintings, nor that Abundance of
+antique Busts, Vases and Statues of Marble and Brass. In fine, to conclude
+this long Parallel, I must tell you, that if the Palaces of _Italy_ were
+as neat as the Houses of _Amsterdam_, there would be nothing to compare to
+them; and if the Houses of _Amsterdam_ were as much neglected as those of
+_Italy_, they would be of no Manner of Account.
+
+Be a House here ever so small, there's always some Apartment in it
+uninhabited, which is the finest Part of the Building. 'Tis a Sanctuary
+whereof the upper Servant Maid of the House is the grand Priestess. She
+has so profound a Respect for this unfrequented Place that she never
+enters it without putting off her Shoes, for fear of soiling the Floor,
+which is held in so great Veneration that they pay it a Sort of Worship:
+'Tis the Residence of the Houshold Gods, and one is sure of incurring the
+Indignation both of the Mistress and the Maids, if one does not shew the
+same Veneration to their Floor as they do. Whoever enters the House, must
+first rub their Feet upon a Mat at the Door, and be sure not to spit, were
+they in Danger of being choak'd, unless they find a little Basket of Sand
+laid there for the Purpose; and if a Person should but happen to drop the
+least Thing capable of spotting the Floor, I am not sure that the
+Priestesses would not sacrifice the Delinquent to their Idol, and that we
+should not see the Revival of the Story of _Orpheus_ and the _Bacchantes_.
+There are however some particular Days in the Year when the Priestesses
+give their Masters Leave to enter these Sanctuaries, and therein to
+receive Company; but the very next Day, this Place, which in the Language
+of the Country is called _Besse-Kamer_ (i. e. _the best Room_) is wash'd
+and purify'd, as our Churches are after they have been profaned. I don't
+make Things a jot worse than they are in reality, and I am sure there are
+some Rooms that are not opened four times in a Year, unless it be to air
+the Goods. 'Tis the same with a thousand fine Things in the
+_Amsterdammers_ Possession, which they don't make use of for fear of
+spoiling them: Thus they live in the midst of Abundance, and of Wealth,
+without the Hearts to enjoy what they have. Nevertheless, within these few
+Years past, they begin to have some Taste of Life: They give into
+Equipage, Furniture, and Rural Entertainments, and their Women into Dress
+and Splendor. The old Men exclaim against new Fashions, and say the
+Republic is in a declining State, in which they resemble one of our
+Emperors, who observing that his Master of the Horse had changed the
+Cord-Traces, which had been the Fashion of his Court, into Leather Traces,
+cry'd out, That _Luxury would be the Ruin of his Family, and his
+Government_.
+
+The Government of _Amsterdam_ is in a Senate, consisting of sixty-three
+Persons, who hold their Places for Life; and when any one dies, 'tis the
+Senate that appoints his Successor: In this Body there are twelve
+Burgomasters, of whom four preside annually. They chuse three out of the
+twelve every Year, who with one of the four of the last Year, that
+continues in Office, have the Direction of Affairs. These latter, before
+they enter into their Office, are obliged to take an Oath to the senior
+Burgomasters. He who is continued from one Year to the other, has the
+Presidency for three Months, after which the others take it in their
+Turns; and they who go out of their[103]Office, are commonly employed as
+Treasurers of the City, or as Counselor-Deputies to the States of
+_Holland_, residing at the _Hague_.
+
+The Office of Burgomaster is more honourable than profitable; for 'tis
+said, their Salary is only five hundred Florins _per Annum_: But their
+Authority is considerable; for they are the chief Magistrates, and in some
+Sort the Masters of the City. They dispose of all the public Money, and
+they alone judge of what is necessary for the Safety of the Town. They are
+the Guardians of the Bank, which can only be opened in the Presence of one
+of 'em. They confer all Offices, and may therewith gratify whom they will,
+and if they please, their own Children; so that, as in _Germany_, there
+needs but a Bishop in a decay'd Family to repair its Misfortunes, so here,
+if there be but a Burgomaster in a Family, 'tis enough to make 'em all
+easy.
+
+There is also in this City a Bailiff, who is called _Hoofd-Schout_, or
+_Hoofd-Officier_, who is the same that is elsewhere called the Lieutenant
+of the Police. He has under him three Substitutes, who are called the
+_Under-Schouts_. These are they who apprehend Malefactors, which they
+often do in the midst of a Mob, only accompanied with a Couple of Archers
+who have no other Arms but Swords. Yet every one trembles at the Sight of
+'em, and two Men carry another to Prison, with more Ease than forty
+Archers can do the like at _Paris_.
+
+The Senate meets in the Stadthouse. This Fabric, so much celebrated for
+its Magnificence, and because it contains the richest Bank in the
+Universe, is really a stately Edifice; and tho' it has Defects, it may be
+ranked in the Number of the finest Buildings in _Europe_. It fronts a
+Square called the _Dam_, in the Centre of the City. The Building is almost
+a complete Quadrangle, with Pavilions at each Angle. In the middle of the
+principal Front there's an advanced Building which takes up one third of
+the whole Front. 'Tis decorated by seven Porticos, so small that they
+disfigure all this great Pile of Building; which they pretend was not
+owing to the Ignorance of the Architect, but to a political Cause: For at
+the Time that this Stadthouse was built, the Republic was but in its
+Infancy. The Populace of _Amsterdam_, a turbulent Mob, ready for any
+Mischief, were then far less submissive to their Magistrates than now; and
+they so often disturbed those Magistrates in their Deliberations, that the
+Architect chose to make the Avenues so narrow, on purpose to prevent the
+Inconveniencies of too easy an Entrance by a Crowd of People. But if this
+was his true Reason for not keeping to the Rules of Architecture, three
+great Porticos would have done as well as seven small ones: He might have
+given them due Proportion, and the Front would have been more majestic.
+But the Number Seven was the chosen Number, and it was to represent the
+Seven United Provinces, to whose Union the City of _Amsterdam_ owes its
+Enjoyment of Liberty and Commerce. Notwithstanding this Defect, 'tis
+certain that a Foreigner, tho' he will not offer to compare this
+Stadthouse to the Palace of _Versailles_, to the Escurial, or to the
+_Procuraties_ at _Venice_; and tho' when he looks on it, he may only think
+he sees a Town-house, and not the Palace of a King, or of a powerful
+State, yet he cannot behold it without Admiration, especially if he does
+but consider that every Material in this Building was brought from foreign
+Countries.
+
+The Outside of this great Fabric is all of Free-stone, extremely well put
+together; and an Order of very substantial Pilasters ranges quite round
+the whole. The Part which projects from the principal Front, is terminated
+by a Pediment, which is a grand Piece of Sculpture. It represents the City
+of _Amsterdam_, under the Figure of _Cybele_, seated in a Chair. Four
+_Naiads_, and two Sea Nymphs, present her with Crowns of Palms, and
+Laurels, and Fruit, in token of the Power and Abundance which this City
+receives by Commerce. On the other Side, _Neptune_, accompanied by the
+_Tritons_, seems approaching to pay his Homage to the Goddess, undoubtedly
+to denote the Power of this City at Sea. All this magnificent Groupe is
+extremely well executed, and very much esteemed by the Connoisseurs. A
+Dome at the Top of this Edifice has eight great open Arches all round,
+which support the Cupola; and in this Dome there's a Chime of Bells which
+the Lovers of such noisy Music say is very good Harmony.
+
+The first Room within is the Chamber of Justice, wherein the Criminals
+receive their Sentence. It has three Porticos which open into the great
+Square, from whence may be seen what passes in that Chamber. This Room is
+adorned with Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, done by excellent Hands.
+_Solomon_'s Judgment is there represented in such a grand Manner as is
+wonderful. Beyond this Chamber is the great Stair-case, which has no
+manner of Ornament, and little or no Light. It leads to the great Hall,
+which is really magnificent, but not very lightsome. It is adorned with
+Pilasters and Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, executed with infinite Art. The
+arch'd Roof, which is of Wood, and painted with Oil, is not answerable to
+the Richness of this Hall. Four great Coridors or Galleries, laid open by
+great Arches on both Sides, at the two Ends of the Hall, lead to the
+Apartments, and are adorned with white marble Pilasters two and two,
+Flowers in Bas-Relief, and Statues of a grand Disposition; and the Emblems
+with which the Gates are adorned, are all very suitable to the Business
+that is transacted in the Chamber to which they open.
+
+I shall not undertake to give you the Particulars of all these Rooms, not
+only because it would carry me too far, but because I observed nothing in
+them, except some Paintings, that is worth your Notice. The Arsenal takes
+up one intire Floor over these Chambers, but is only considerable for the
+prodigious Quantity of Arms of the modern Fashion, especially Muskets,
+which are the Manufacture of this City, and a Part of its Commerce.
+
+The ground Floor is very low, but consists of fine great Arches. Here are
+contained the Offices of the Bank, and the Prisons, from which no body
+ever yet escaped, and it is humanly impossible they should; for besides
+that the Walls are very thick, the whole is strongly barricaded both
+within and without, by iron Bars, the very Appearance of which is
+frightful. But if 'tis possible for Prisons to be agreeable, these would
+certainly be such, for they are all lightsome; the Prisoners are not so
+ill used as they are elsewhere, but are allowed proper Nourishment, and
+not suffered to Wallow in their Nastiness.
+
+The Stadthouse is the Place where all Persons are married, who are not of
+the Religion that prevails in the Country. This is a Ceremony that may be
+seen every _Sunday_, and is performed in the Presence of two Echevins, and
+a Secretary. The People that are to be married, go into a Room where the
+Magistrates are seated at a Table, and there they are entered one after
+the other without Distinction of Rank, into the Register of Marriages;
+after which they go Home with the Satisfaction of having been as well
+married as if the Ceremony had been performed by the Pope himself; nor are
+they under the least Necessity of having recourse to the Church.
+Nevertheless, all the regular People go to some Priest or Minister to
+receive the nuptial Benediction.
+
+The Treasure of the Bank is kept in a Place under Ground, which extends,
+as I am assured, a great Way under the Square of the _Dam_.
+
+Every body agrees that it is immense, but nobody knows exactly of how many
+thousand Millions it consists; and it is a Question, whether its Credit be
+not infinitely greater than its Cash; it being certain that the Public has
+such a Confidence in it that every body puts their Money into it, though
+without any Interest for it: On the contrary, it costs One hundred and
+five Florins ready Cash, to have One hundred Florins Bank. The largest
+Payments are commonly made in Bank Notes: A certain Sum is registered in
+the Bank Books, which is transferred, either in whole, or in Part, to the
+Person to whom the Payment is to be made, This is called _The Keeping an
+Account at the Bank_. It was a Correspondence of this Nature which the
+famous _John Law_ would fain have establish'd at _Paris_; and he would
+certainly have succeeded, if he had had but the Fund of the Bank of
+_Amsterdam_, and the public Confidence.
+
+They say that the Revenues of this City amount to fifty thousand Livres a
+Day, which I am apt to believe is true; for really the Taxes here are very
+considerable, the Subjects of this State paying more than those of any
+Crown whatsoever: All the Difference consists in the Distribution of the
+Taxes, and the Manner of raising them: Here they are laid equally upon the
+Rich and upon the poor, upon Citizens and upon Foreigners.
+
+The Liberty so much boasted of in these Provinces, is no more than that
+which the good People of other Countries enjoy; nevertheless, I must
+except Religion, which every one here may adapt to his own Fancy. The
+Liberty therefore consists only in the Equality of Conditions: But for a
+Boor to presume to be saucy to a Burgher, to despise the Nobility, to
+censure his Masters with Impunity, and to treat all Kings as Tyrants,
+seems to me to be a Liberty which favours very much of Libertinism. The
+_Germans_ and the _French_, who are not used to such Licentiousness in
+their own Country, easily fall into it here; and 'tis really a Wonder to
+hear them in a Coffee-house talking of Sovereigns, especially when,
+inspir'd with a Holy Zeal, they plead for the Religion, which, say they,
+is every-where oppressed, except in the Dominions of the Calvinists. They
+think every Government tyrannical, which does not allow intire Liberty of
+Conscience. 'Tis true that in this Country every one believes as he
+pleases: And here are Religions of every Kind, which nevertheless tend to
+one and the same Centre, _viz._ the acquiring of Riches, and the
+tormenting both of Body and Soul, to get an Estate, not to enjoy it, but
+to have the Pleasure of dying rich. Money, the Darling and the Idol of the
+whole World, is so adored in this City, that it stands in the stead of
+Birth, Wit, and Merit. A Man who has but a small Share of the Favours of
+Fortune, is neglected almost every-where; but here he is despised.
+
+Next to those of the prevailing Religion, the Catholics, among whom I
+include the Jansenists, are the most numerous: I have been told, they are
+above twenty thousand. They have fourteen Churches, served by different
+Orders of Friers, who as they die, the States have declared, shall be
+succeeded hereafter by none but the secular Priests who are Natives of the
+Country. They say, that this Resolution was taken, because the Monks sent
+the Money which they received for the Poor, to their Convent. What Ground
+there is for this Charge, I know not; but be it as it will, who can be
+sure that the Priests will not employ the Poors Money to enrich their own
+Families? The Catholics form a considerable Body in this State, both for
+their Number and their Wealth. It may be said that they are with the
+_Jews_ (forgive me the Parallel) one of the chief Supports of its
+Commerce; for as they cannot hold Offices, they are Merchants from Father
+to Son; tho' 'tis true, that among the Protestants who are in Offices,
+there are some who trade.
+
+What I have now said to you of our Clergy, engages me to give you some
+Account of two Calvinist Preachers here, who are very much esteemed, and
+mightily followed by those of their Communion. The one is M. _Alstein_, a
+_German_ Minister, who preaches in the Church called the _Chapel_, a Man
+of exemplary Morals, who avoiding angry Disputes and bitter Invectives,
+preaches truly Christian Morality, which reaches to the Heart. He was
+Minister of the Garison of _Potsdam_, in the Dominions of _Prussia_, when
+he was called hither by the _German_ Colony established in this City. He
+is belov'd and esteemed for his Modesty, Good-nature and Candour. This
+Testimony which I pay him of the Veneration and Esteem I have for him, is
+perfectly agreeable with the Character given of him by the Voice of the
+Public.
+
+The second Preacher is M. _Ch�telain_ a _French_ Minister, with whom I
+have no Acquaintance; but he has a very great Character, and I have heard
+him preach. It were to be wish'd, that all the Clergy (our Priests will
+suffer me not to forget them) had it as much at Heart as this Minister
+has, to instruct their Audiences; and that they would preach Morality,
+which is the Life of all Religions, because it is founded upon Piety and
+Virtue. M. _Ch�telain_ was Minister at the _Hague_, when he was called to
+this City, where he has the Pleasure of being as much esteem'd and
+follow'd by his Flock, as he was by that which he left.
+
+I have many other Things to acquaint you with, but upon my Word, I can
+write no more at present, my Pen falling out of my Hand. I shall resume it
+however against next Post, not so much to tell you of _Amsterdam_, as to
+assure you that no body can be more intirely yours, than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER LI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Amsterdam, Dec. 7, 1732._
+
+Since the Weather is set in for Frost, I keep my Station upon the Ice, to
+see the People slide upon Skates; a favourite Exercise of the _Dutch_, in
+which they acquit themselves with marvellous Dexterity. These Skates are a
+very little smooth Piece of Wood, like a Weaver's Shuttle, except that the
+Part on which the Heel and the Sole of the Shoe rest most, is a little
+broader. The Remainder of it is slender and crooked at the End, that the
+Iron which is underneath may the better cleave the Snow, and that they may
+with the more Ease surmount the Obstacles and little Hillocks in the Ice,
+over which they pass with great Rapidity, but not without Danger of
+breaking their Legs or Arms, and often of being drowned. The _Dutch_ are
+less exposed to these Inconveniencies than others, because they are most
+expert in the Art; for they learn to skate when they can scarce go alone.
+This is rather the Diversion of the common People, and of the lusty young
+Fellows, than of the Gentry, or of Men full-grown. These go in Sleds,
+after the Manner of our Country, which is what they call here _Narren_;
+_i. e._ to play the Fool: And indeed, to consider it duly, I think 'tis a
+right Name for it.
+
+The Place where I take the Air, is upon the River of _Amstel_, without the
+Gate of _Utrecht_, where I see several Thousands of People scudding along
+upon Skates, so fast that they seem to fly. If one of these Skaters was to
+be seen in _Swisserland_, I know not whether he would not suffer the Fate
+of _Brioche_, the Puppet-Show Man, whom the People of those Cantons burned
+for a Conjurer.
+
+These Skaters are a great Relief to me; for to tell you a Secret, I am
+quite sick of this City, which really is not a Place for a Man to live in,
+that is not concerned in Trade; and a Foreigner especially, knows not how
+to bestow himself. He can find nowhere to go but to some sorry
+Coffee-house, or melancholy Walk. In the one he is sure to be _incens'd_
+with Tobacco, and stunned with wretched Commentaries upon News-Papers or
+the Price of Pepper and Ginger; in the other he is as solitary as a
+Hermit. Their Comedies are but a poor Relief to such as don't understand
+_Dutch_, which besides is a Language that I think is not very fit for the
+Stage, any more than ours. I thought the Actors pitiful, and the Habits
+trifling; but the Decorations are fine, and the Theatre spacious and
+magnificent. I can't imagine why the Magistrates will not let _French_
+Comedies be acted in their City, where I think they would do more Good
+than Harm; for they would help to polish the Youth, and would undoubtedly
+keep them from that Temptation to Debauchery, to which Idleness, and the
+Difficulty of knowing where to spend the Evenings, naturally incline them.
+I heard _d'Argenson_, the late Keeper of the Seals say, he had observed,
+while he was Lieutenant of the Police at _Paris_, that there were more
+Disorders and Debaucheries committed in that City, during the Fortnight at
+_Easter_, when the Theatres were shut up, than were committed in four
+Months, while all Shows were kept open. I doubt not but it would be the
+same at _Amsterdam_, where there is a numerous Youth, for whom the Parents
+are blindly complaisant, and ready to kill the fatted Calf; so that being
+left to their own Devices, and having in general but few Maxims of
+Education, they run with the Stream of their Passions into all
+Extravagancies. These young Fellows, who prefer the Exercise of driving a
+Chaise before all others, set up in the mean Time for fine Gentlemen; but
+how well they perform their Part, I leave you to think.
+
+The Assemblies, or Societies, as they are here called, have nothing that
+is engaging. You see very fine Faces there, but not a Tongue moves, at
+least to a Foreigner, the very Sight of whom seems to frighten them. Here
+they drink Tea, or play a Game at Ombre, or Quadrille, and afterwards go
+in quest of a Supper.
+
+Those Societies, or Clubs, where there are no Ladies, are still worse. In
+these they smoke and drink in Abundance, talk of Trade or Politicks; and
+at such Times, woe be to those Powers that have forbid the Importation of
+_Dutch_ Toys into their Dominions. The only Remedy here against Chagrin,
+is Reading, of which a Man may have his Heartful; for _Amsterdam_ is not
+only the Centre of the Bookselling Trade, but here are Book-sellers, that
+are very ready to lend Books to such, who, like myself, cannot be at the
+Charge of a Library. I divide my Time between Reading, the Coffee-house,
+and taking the Air, the latter of which I use very moderately, one being
+obliged to go so far for it, that I think of it at least four times before
+I set out. The Canals, such as the _Heers-Gracht_, and the
+_Keizers-Gracht_, are pleasant Walks in the Town, because they are planted
+with Trees; but they are indifferently paved. Upon these two Canals, live
+Persons of the greatest Distinction, or rather those of the greatest
+Wealth in the City.
+
+One of the finest Walks in it is the Bridge, which joins the Rampart from
+one Side of the _Amstel_ to the other. 'Tis six hundred and fifty Feet in
+Length, and seventy in Breadth; and here one enjoys an admirable Prospect,
+which is the only one perhaps that can be compared with the View from
+_Pont-Royal_ at _Paris_.
+
+The Admiralty, with its Precinct, forms a little Town. 'Tis one of the
+Arsenals of the _Dutch_ Navy. Here one actually sees Seventy Men of War,
+and Materials for building a much greater Number. With the Leave of the
+_Venetians_, their Arsenal, so much boasted, is by no means comparable to
+this, with regard to Naval Stores.
+
+The Admiralty Office is so near the _India_ Company's Warehouse, that I am
+tempted to give you some Account of a House which contains such a
+Treasure. 'Tis a very great Structure of several Stories, distributed into
+divers Chambers, or Rooms, where there is a prodigious Quantity of all
+manner of Spices, of which the most common Sorts lie in Heaps as Corn does
+in our Granaries. There are also a great many other Things of Value; and
+in a Word, every Thing, be it ever so precious, that comes from the
+_Indies_. After I had walked about an Hour in this Warehouse, I was, as it
+were, embalmed with the Odour of all the different Spices, which made my
+Head ake exceedingly, or else I should have thought myself metamorphosed
+into a Mummy; but jesting apart, I fancy that were a Carcase to be
+deposited in this House, it would be free from Corruption. The _India_
+Company is properly a Republick, within the Republic itself. It arms,
+disarms, raises and disbands Officers and Soldiers, without being
+accomptable to the State. It maintains a Governor in the _Indies_, who
+lives there with more Pomp and Grandeur than his Masters do here. As a
+_Neapolitan_ Lady at _Madrid_ wish'd _Philip_ IV. _that he might one Day
+be Viceroy of_ Naples, so it might be said to a Director of the
+_East-India_ Company, _I wish you may be one Day Governor of_ Batavia.
+
+I don't give you an Account of the Houses of Correction, nor of the
+Hospitals, of which here are a great Number well founded, and well
+maintained, because I have an extraordinary Antipathy to Prisons, and
+dread the very Name of an Hospital, to which however I perceive that I am
+making great Strides; but it will be Time enough for me to give you an
+Account of those Mansions, when I have fixed my Quarters there. A
+Description of a Synagogue would not, I believe, be material to you;
+therefore I shall only acquaint you, that here are two, one for the
+_Portuguese_ Jews, which is very fine, the other for the _German_ Jews.
+They are both Jews alike, but differ in their Taste and Sentiments. The
+_Portuguese_ Jews are the handsomest of the two, for they shave their
+Beards, and some of them are very genteel. I was shew'd one the other Day,
+who was a smart young Fellow, and might, have cut a Figure among the
+Petits-Ma�tres. I was told, that he had been educated in our Religion, and
+that he seemed to be fond of it; but being at _Paris_, in the Retinue of
+M. ***, Ambassador of ***, he ran away from that Minister's Service, and
+came to _Amsterdam_, where he turned as staunch a Jew as if he had never
+heard the Name of Jesus Christ.
+
+Near the Jews Quarter there is the Garden of Simples. I am not Botanist
+enough to tell you what Plants it contains; but have been assured, that
+'tis one of the finest in _Europe_ for foreign Plants, which, considering
+the great Trade that is carried on by the _Dutch_, is not improbable.
+
+When I have told you, that the public Walk, which they call _The
+Plantation_, is near this Garden, and that it consists of several fine
+Rows of Trees, one of which is cut out in the Shape of a Fan, I shall
+think that I have not omitted giving you the minutest of my Remarks on the
+Inside of _Amsterdam_.
+
+The Suburbs of this great City, in which 'tis said there are about five
+hundred thousand Souls (as many as are in _Naples_) are extremely
+populous. There are above eight hundred Windmills continually at Work, in
+grinding Corn, or sawing of Timber. On the other Side of the Harbour,
+there are several Villages, of which _Sardam_ is the most considerable,
+not only for its Size, in which it surpasses many Towns, but for the
+Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are called Peasants, and pretend to be
+nothing else, tho' I can't imagine why; for they trade and make a Figure
+here upon the Exchange, like the most substantial Merchants, and don't
+apply themselves to Agriculture. I have been told, that there are above a
+thousand Windmills at _Sardam_, always employed in sawing of Timber; which
+would have been a rare Field for _Don Quixot_ to have display'd his
+Valour. That Neatness of which the _Dutch_ are so fond, is cultivated to
+the greatest Nicety in this Village; and the _Amsterdammers_ themselves
+cannot but own and admire it.
+
+The Peasants of _Sardam_ dress more like the Citizens of _Amsterdam_ than
+those of the other Villages in these Parts do, whose Apparel is of a very
+extraordinary Fashion. They wear monstrous large Trowsers, wide enough to
+make some People a whole Suit. Under this Trowser there is another Pair of
+Breeches, and perhaps a third, or else a Pair of Drawers; and to the two
+Pair of Breeches which are in Sight, they have solid Plate Buttons bigger
+than a Crown piece, They also wear four or five Waistcoats, one over the
+other, which are set so thick with silver Buttons that they perfectly
+touch one another. Over all this Cloathing they have a dark-colour'd
+Surtout or Doublet, which keeps them extremely tight downward, and
+therefore all their Waistcoats ride up, so that they seem to have Breasts
+like Women. Their Shoes are Seamen-like, or, with Reverence be it spoken,
+such as are now worn by the _French_ Petits Maitres. They have also silver
+Buckles, but so large that they are fitter for the Harness of Horses than
+for Shoes. I assure you, that if the _Romans_ had been dressed like these
+Peasants, the _Carthaginians_ would have taken a richer Booty in silver
+Buttons than they did at the Battle of _Cann�_, when they took that Heap
+of _Roman_ Rings. The Women also wear a small Equipage of Gold and Silver.
+They have gold Ear-pendants, a Bodkin of the same which fastens their
+Caps, Chains about their Necks, in Form of Pearl Necklaces, great Rings,
+and in all this there's no Expence grudged.
+
+The _Sardamers_ are so very much wedded to their ancient Habit, that a
+Father once refused to own his Son, because having been for some Years in
+_France_, he came to wait on him upon the Exchange of _Amsterdam_, in a
+Suit of Cloaths bedawb'd with gold Lace. Young _Calf_, which was the
+Peasant's Name, arriving at _Amsterdam_ about Change-Time, went thither,
+supposing he should find his Father there, in which he was not mistaken,
+and he ran to embrace him; but the Father pushing him away, ask'd him what
+he wanted, and told him that he did not think he had the Honour to be
+known to him, and that probably he was mistaken in his Man. The Son's
+calling him Father, signify'd nothing. Old _Calf_ being inexorable,
+interrupted him, saying, _I your Father! I have but one Son, who is such a
+Peasant as I am, and not a Lord, as you seem to be_. The young Fellow
+perceived that his Father took Umbrage as his Dress; therefore he went to
+a public House, sent for Cloaths after the _Sardam_ Mode, and having thus
+equipped himself, went upon the Exchange next Day, where his Father
+received him with all the Tokens of the most endearing Tenderness. After
+that Day, young _Calf_, who went in _France_ by the Name of _de Veau_
+(which is the Signification of his Name translated into _French_) always
+continued to dress in this Manner. This gave Occasion some Years ago to a
+very pleasant Adventure: A _Frenchman_ who had known M. _Calf_ at _Paris_
+by the Name of _de Veau_, coming to _Amsterdam_, inquired every-where for
+M. _de Veau_, who he said was a very rich Nobleman, of high Rank, as he
+guessed by his Train of Attendants. It was a long Time before he could
+hear any Tidings of him, because few People knew that young _Calf_ had
+frenchified his Name in foreign Countries. At length a _Frenchman_, who
+was settled at _Amsterdam_, offered the _Parisian_ to find out his Friend
+for him. For this Purpose he carried him to the Exchange; and pointing to
+M. _Calf_, _Stop_, said he to him, _there's the Man you are looking for_.
+The _Frenchman_, who did not know M. _de Veau_ in his Country Garb,
+thought that his Guide bantered him. _Parbleu Mons._ said he, _I told you
+plain enough, that the Person I want is a Nobleman, and not a Peasant_. M.
+_Calf_ hearing the Foreigner speak, and knowing him at first Sight, went
+up to him, and welcomed him upon his Arrival in _Holland_. The _Frenchman_
+knew him instantly by his Voice, but thought himself in a Trance, because
+he could not imagine how 'twas possible for a Person whom he had known a
+Nobleman in _France_, to be a Peasant in _Holland_. M. _Calf_ explained
+the Mystery of it to him however, as far as was convenient, considering
+the Place where they were, and desired his Company to _Sardam_. The
+_Frenchman_ went accordingly, and when he came thither, 'twas a fresh
+Matter of Surprise to him to see the Peasant had the House and Furniture
+of a Nobleman. M. _Calf_ shew'd him, that tho' he had laid aside the Garb,
+he had not renounced the Politeness of the _French_, entertained him with
+good Chear for several Days, and then sent him back highly delighted to
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+The Village of _Sardam_ being in North _Holland_, I cannot avoid giving
+you some Account of this Nook of that Province. Here is a perfect
+Miscellany of Meadows, Canals, Country Houses, Gardens, great Villages,
+and good Towns, an Uniformity of Beauties, which is only disagreeable by
+being continued. He that sees one Town or House, sees all, and so of the
+rest. The principal Towns of this Canton are _Horne_, _Alcmaer_, and
+_Enckbuysen_, which are all built with the same Neatness, but have nothing
+of Magnificence belonging to them, except it be the Walks at their Gates.
+All these Places are so deserted, that it would take up the _Emigrants_ of
+three or four Bishopricks to people them. Their Trade decays, _Amsterdam_
+being the Loadstone that draws all to it. This Part of the Province of
+_Holland_ is very much infested with Worms which eat into the very Stakes
+pf the Dykes. The People are in Hopes that the Frost will kill them, and
+put an End to a Calamity which is one of the worst that can befal this
+Country. It is not certain how these Insects breed, nor whether it be in
+the Sea, or in the Timber itself: One would imagine from some little
+external Specks of the infested Stakes, these Worms must breed in the Sea,
+and from thence make their Way into the Wood, no bigger than Needles,
+after which they grow as big as the Silkworm, and gnaw the Inside of the
+Timber, in such a Manner that it looks like a Honeycomb. The Spoil they
+make is said to be in those Parts only of the Stake which are under Water.
+The Damage they have done to the Dykes is very considerable, and has so
+very much alarmed the States, that they have prohibited Plays, &c. at the
+_Hague_, and ordered public Prayers. A great many People pretend that this
+Province was visited by such a Scourge fifty or sixty Years ago, and that
+it was delivered from it by a Sort of Fish, that have never been seen
+since, which devoured all those Worms. Others treat this as a Fable, and
+say, that such Insects were never known, much less the Fish by which they
+were devoured. Be this as it will, several Treatises will shortly be
+published, to shew the Origin, Nature and Progress of the present Species
+of Worms. If I am not mistaken, these Books will point out the Method, and
+the Remedies proper for destroying them; and if any of 'em are printed
+before I depart this Country, I will not fail to send them to you.
+
+For the rest, I cannot say that I have had any other Satisfaction in my
+Tour to North _Holland_ than the Gratification of Sight; for Company does
+not seem to be the Taste of the Country. I never stirred out but every
+body took me for a very odd kind of a Man: Yet I am no Petit-Ma�tre; nor
+is there any Thing uncommon in my Make. The Sex in this out-of-the-way
+Country is very handsome, and here are Country Lasses who have a delicate
+Complexion, not inferior to the finest Ladies. These Sylvan Beauties are
+generally fair, and have such a languishing Look, that I guess they would
+not prove unkind to any young Faun that courted them. For my own Part, who
+am too far advanced in Years to attempt an Intrigue with 'em, I content
+myself with admiring these beautiful Nymphs, whose Favours would perhaps
+rather mortify than gratify me, and which in either Case, I should not
+prefer to the Honour of your Friendship; a Thing to me of Price
+inestimable. Of this I beg the Continuance, and flatter myself, that I
+deserve it by the Attachment with which I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Helvoetsluys, Feb. 2, 1733._
+
+Being detained in this Port by Winds that have for these six Days
+obstinately opposed my Passage to _England_, without any Prospect of their
+changing, I am at full Leisure to inform you of such Things as I have seen
+since the last Letter that I had the Honour to write to you from
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+I was carried from that City in the Boat in less than three Hours to
+HARLEM, the second of those Towns that have a Right to send Deputies to
+the Assembly of the States of the Province. It was for a long Time the
+Rival of _Amsterdam_, and actually at War with it, but could not hinder
+its Aggrandisement. While those Provinces fought for their Liberty,
+_Harlem_ was besieged, taken and plunder'd by the _Spaniards_, against
+whom the very Women bore Arms. In 1559, Pope _Paul_ IV. erected this Town
+into a Bishoprick, but it never had more than two Bishops. The Splendor of
+it is owing to its Manufactures, which consist of Silk-Stuffs, Cambrics,
+strip'd Dimities, and Thread Stockings. Its Whitsters also bring a great
+Revenue to this Town. The Florists cannot fail of being agreeably amused
+here, by reason of Flowers of such Beauty, that I have been assured a
+Tulip-Root has been sold there for fourteen hundred Florins. But the
+greatest Honour of _Harlem_ is to have given Birth to _Laurence Coster_,
+the Inventor of Printing. I am not ignorant that _Mentz_ disputes with
+_Harlem_ for the Honour of that Invention, but this being a Controversy
+which 'tis none of my Province to determine, I sincerely believe, when I
+am at _Harlem_, that _Coster_ is the Inventor of this wonderful Art,
+provided I may be at Liberty to believe the contrary when I am at _Mentz_,
+and to be uncertain of the Matter everywhere else. _Coster_'s House is to
+be seen here with the following Inscription placed Over the Gate, which
+denotes, that _Printing_, the BEST ART for perpetuating the other Arts,
+was first invented here about _Anno_ 1440.
+
+                            MEMORIAE SACRUM.
+                              TYPOGRAPHIA,
+                           ARS ARTIUM OPTIMA,
+                             CONSERVATRIX,
+                           HIC PRIMUM INVENTA
+                          CIRCA ANNUM MCCCCXL.
+
+In order to reconcile the two Towns, I believe it might be granted, that
+_Coster_ invented the Art of Cutting in Wood, which was formerly made use
+of, and that _John Faustus_ of _Mentz_ invented the Characters of Metal,
+that are used now. By this Means the two Parties will have equal Share in
+the Glory of the Invention, which after all is disputed with them by the
+_Chinese_, who prove that the Art of Printing was known to them two
+thousand Years ago.
+
+As I walked about in _Harlem_, my Guide bid me look at certain Cambrick
+Cockades trimm'd with Lace, which were tied to some of the Doors. He told
+me, that this was to shew that the Woman of the House was in Childbed;
+which procures the Husband a Protection, so that he cannot be arrested
+during six Weeks that his Wife is supposed to lye-in. What was the
+Occasion of the Grant of this Privilege, I could not learn, nor by what
+Prince it was granted.
+
+The Walks of _Harlem_, especially that in the Wood, which is at the Gates
+or the Town, would be charming, if they were not so sandy. On the other
+Hand, the Canal which leads from this Town to _Leyden_, is one of the most
+disagreeable in the Province, there being scarce any Thing upon its Banks
+but Meadows and Downs.
+
+LEYDEN is one of the largest and finest Cities in the Country. It has been
+subject, as all sublunary Things are, to great Revolutions and
+Misfortunes. The _Spaniards_ besieged it in 1573, and as they despaired of
+taking it by Force, they intended to reduce it by Famine. The Inhabitants
+were drove to the utmost Misery, till they pierced the Dykes of the
+_Maese_, and the _Issel_, by which Means all the great Meadows about
+_Leyden_ became a perfect Sea of Water, and the _Spaniards_, in Danger of
+perishing, raised the Siege: And the 3d of _October_ is annually observed
+with Rejoicings in Memory of the Deliverance of the Town upon that Day of
+the Month.
+
+The great Church, dedicated to St. _Peter_, is one of the finest
+Structures in _Holland_. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall
+Pillars. All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy,
+and a great many have Canals. 'Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number
+of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the
+meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are
+not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay'd, since the
+Importation of Cloth from _Holland_ has been prohibited by some of its
+neighbouring States.
+
+The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually
+three great Men for Professors, _Vitriarius_ for the Civil Law,
+_Boerhaave_ for Physic, and _s'Gravesande_ for the Mathematics. The first
+is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing
+himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_
+to _Leyden_. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of _England_
+excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir'd
+than they are at _Leyden_: Nor is there any Place more proper for
+Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how
+they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here
+don't value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in
+_Germany_; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is
+also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came
+thro' this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease
+in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look
+like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much
+describ'd, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches
+here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven
+Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.
+
+The Passage from _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, whether by Land, or by the
+Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and
+fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that
+these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.
+
+The HAGUE, which is called a Village, because 'tis not inclosed, and sends
+no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless
+a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is
+certainly one of the finest in _Europe_. The States General, as well as
+those of this Province, assemble here, and 'tis the Place of Residence for
+the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of _Holland_ lived here.
+Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their
+Court here; and the _Hague_, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned
+for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more
+genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the
+other Parts of _Holland_. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does
+not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have
+something more engaging than mere Beauty.
+
+The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho' perhaps not so
+magnificent as those at _Amsterdam_; and here are some Palaces with
+Gardens.
+
+The Palace which they call _the Court_, was anciently the Residence of its
+Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric,
+consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There
+meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of _Holland_,
+the Council of Nobles, and that of the _Gecommitteer de Raden_, or Deputy
+Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their
+Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one of which is called the
+_Chamber of the Truce_, because the Truce for twelve Years was there
+concluded with _Spain_. 'Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience
+to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace,
+in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies
+of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for
+lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their
+Expence. It was built by Prince _Maurice_ of _Nassau_, after he returned
+from his Government at _Brasil_, and he adorned it with all the Rarities
+that are the Production of the _Indies_. But all these Things, as well as
+the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the
+Duke of _Marlborough_ set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the
+Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this
+House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho'
+'tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.
+
+The Palace of the _Old Court_ belonging to the King of _Prussia_, because
+it fell to _Frederic_ I. by Inheritance from King _William_ III. is a
+large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced
+Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron
+Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are
+large and commodious, and there's a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings
+by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much
+embellished by the late King of _Prussia_, who gave Leave for all People
+of Fashion to see it; but 'tis now neglected. The King's Minister, and
+the[104] Count _de Hompesch_, General of the States Cavalry, have
+Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you,
+which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things
+that are needless.
+
+The Situation of the _Hague_ is very different from that of the other
+Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there's every Thing that
+forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved
+With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to
+_Scheveling_, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the _Hague_. 'Tis
+a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees
+interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The _Delft_ Road, and that which leads
+to _Loosduinen_, one or two Leagues from the _Hague_, are also very
+beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks,
+and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That
+called the _Voorbout_ is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the
+Coaches. There's a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in,
+where in all the Summer Evenings there's very fine Company. 'Twas
+_Charles_ V. that embellished the _Hague_ with this Walk. It has
+occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the
+most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. _de Thou_, the
+_French_ Ambassador, and M. _de Gamarre_, the Ambassador of _Spain_. These
+two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they
+met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were
+just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States,
+who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their
+Mediation, and proposed to both of 'em to return back at that very Instant
+by the same Way they came. M. _de Gamarre_ was very ready to comply with
+any Proposal; but M. _de Thou_ refused every one, and would by no means
+admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of _Spain_. The
+Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by
+several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. _de
+Beverwert_, the first of the Nobles of the Province of _Holland_, after
+having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no
+purpose, seeing M. _de Thou_ obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage,
+proposed at last to M. _de Gamarre_, to drive off across the Ring; and for
+doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two
+Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would
+have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The
+_Spanish_ Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the
+Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States,
+might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased
+themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained _the vain Honours of
+Precedency_; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho' in short, if there were any
+Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of _France_, because he
+obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he
+finished his Carrier, while the _Spaniard_ returned home, perhaps because
+they had disputed so long till Night overtook them.
+
+The _French_, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the
+most Disputes about this Matter. The Count _d'Estrades_, the Embassador of
+_Lewis_ XIV. had one in this same _Voorbout_, with the Prince of _Orange_,
+afterwards King of _Great Britain_. Their Coaches happened to meet, and
+each of 'em aiming at the Post of Honour, they stopped over-against one
+another. The Ambassador's Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined
+by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of
+the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been
+very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock'd together for
+the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to
+prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him,
+_I know not what the Prince's People mean; I was ignorant till now, that
+the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign_ (implying that the Ambassadors
+only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess
+Dowager of _Orange_, to know whether the Prince's Governor was not more to
+blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That
+'twas the King of _England_'s Business to concern himself in the Affair;
+for she imagin'd, that his _Britannic_ Majesty was bound in Interest to
+support the Dignity of his Nephew's Rank. Nevertheless, she follow'd the
+Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the
+Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made
+his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador's passed into the Rank which
+he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince's
+Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary,
+they went a League from the _Hague_ to receive them, on the Part of the
+States; insomuch that _Frederic-Henry_ the Prince's Grandfather, tho' upon
+Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not
+take the first Place. _Charles_ II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being
+sold to _France_, he did not stand up for his Nephew's interests.
+
+Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of
+such Foreign Ministers as reside at the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Fenelon_, Brigadier of the _French_ King's Armies, is his most
+Christian Majesty's Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is
+Nephew to the Great _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_. He is esteemed for
+his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His
+Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the
+Inhabitants of the _Hague_, who have not forgot what was spent among them
+by my Lord _Chesterfield_, Ambassador from _Great Britain_, one of the
+most sumptuous Noblemen in _England_, who was perfectly adored by the
+common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of
+Distinction.
+
+The Count _de Sinzendorff_, the Emperor's Plenipotentiary, has a great
+Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great
+_Sinzendorff_, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that
+he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so
+successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and
+the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the _Ostend_
+Company, and to get the _Pragmatic Sanction_ guaranteed by their[105] High
+Mightinesses.
+
+The Count _de Golofskin_ is Plenipotentiary Minister of _Russia_, which
+Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He
+is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He
+passed his Youth at _Berlin_, and performed his Exercises at the Academy
+founded by the late King _Frederic_ I. He was afterwards several Years
+Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar _Peter the Great_, and from the
+late Empress _Catharine_ to the Court of _Prussia_; from which Court the
+present Empress _Anne_ sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of
+_France_: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign's Affairs with
+the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While
+he resided at _Berlin_, he there married the Daughter of the late Count
+_Ferassier de Dhona_, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of
+_Denain_, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the
+Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and
+she has the most charming Family that is to be seen.
+
+M. _de Masch_, Envoy from the King of _Prussia_, is a very fit Person to
+manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a
+Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him
+Governor to the Princes of _Brandenbourg Culmbach_, the eldest of whom is
+actually the Prince Regent of _Bareith_. M. _de Masch_ has inspired those
+Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor
+of the Regency of _Cleves_, when the King sent him into this Country,
+where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had
+subsisted[106] between his _Prussian_ Majesty, and the Prince of _Nassau
+Orange_, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King
+_William_ III.
+
+M. _de Brosse_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, manages Affairs here for
+the[107]King of _Poland_, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has
+acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his
+fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless,
+he makes a grand Appearance.
+
+M. _de Sporck_, Minister here from the King of _Great Britain_, as Elector
+of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very
+young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his
+Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, one of the wisest
+Ministers of his Time, 'tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress.
+He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does
+the Honours of her Family to Perfection.
+
+I am not acquainted with the Envoys of[108]_Sweden_ and[109]_Denmark_. M.
+_d'Ayrolles_ takes care of the Interests of the King of _Great Britain_,
+and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business.
+
+Don _Lewis d'Acunha_, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of
+_Portugal_, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important
+Embassies. He was his Majesty's second Ambassador at the Congress of
+_Utrecht_, which Employment he afterwards had in _England_, then in
+_France_, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his
+Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty
+Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was
+younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry.
+
+Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers
+who reside at the _Hague_. Those of the States are not many. M. _de
+Slingeland_ the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of 'em. The consummate
+Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets
+of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one
+of its principal Pillars, and _Europe_ ranks him amongst its greatest
+Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the
+_Hague_ was what _Rome_ was formerly under a _Sixtus_ V. the Centre of
+Politics. He succeeded the late M. _Hoornbeck_ in the Office which he now
+holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation.
+Tho' he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout,
+he gives Application to Business[110].
+
+His Second is the _Gressier Fagel_, one of the greatest Genius's of the
+State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his
+Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which
+accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a
+Library, which is a most learned Collection; and a Cabinet of Medals, and
+of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done
+by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious
+Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he
+takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. 'Tis pity that this
+Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced,
+cannot live for ever.
+
+'Tis certain that the _Hague_ contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of
+both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of
+Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were
+I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my
+Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of
+such only as make the greatest Figure at the _Hague_, either on Account of
+their Employments, or their Birth.
+
+The _Hague_ is the best Place in _Europe_ for a Foreigner to make a good
+Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or
+Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so
+little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to
+Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this
+Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady _Albemarle_, M. _de Keppel_,
+and the Count _de Welderen_. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of
+_Albemarle_, General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, Colonel of the _Swiss_,
+Governor of _Tournay_, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of
+the _Keppel_ Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these
+Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of _Orange_, who, when he came
+to be King of _Great Britain_, created him a Peer of _England_, with the
+Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and it may be
+said, that my Lord _Albemarle_, and my Lord _Portland_, were two Noblemen
+for whom _William_ III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord
+_Albemarle_ maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his
+Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any
+Thing, but to leave every thing to the King's voluntary Grace and Favour.
+This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in _England_. The Lady
+his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs _Vander Duin_, Nobles of this
+Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as
+the first Lady of the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Keppel_[111], the Brother of the late Earl of _Albemarle_, is a
+Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment
+of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High
+Mightinesses to the Court of _Prussia_. He lives very grand at the
+_Hague_, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear
+a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame _de Keppel_,
+heretofore _Welderen_, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible,
+and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count _de Welderen_,
+Deputy of the Province of _Guelderland_, to the States General, is not
+inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a
+Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after
+appointed Ambassador to _England_, in order to congratulate their
+_Britannic_ Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in
+_England_ was very splendid, but the _English_ did not so much mind the
+young Ambassador's Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back
+with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of _England_, the
+Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of _London_. At
+his Return to the _Hague_, the Count _de Welderen_ resumed his Seat in the
+Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his
+House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a
+Member of the Council of State, (they call him the _Waldgrave_) who is a
+young Gentleman of great Merit.
+
+My Lady _Cadogan_, the Dowager of my Lord _Cadogan_, a trusty Friend of
+the late Duke of _Marlborough_, and his Successor in his Employments,
+keeps an Assembly every _Sunday_ Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of
+_Richmond_, who is look'd upon at the Court of _England_, as one of its
+Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, _viz._ my Lady _Margaret_, one of
+the most amiable Ladies at the _Hague_.
+
+The Countess _de Wartemberg_, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, lives retired at the _Hague_, much after
+the same Manner as the Duchess of _Mazarine_ did at _London_. She turns
+Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners,
+and there is very great[112]Play. But she is not so fond as the Duchess
+of _Mazarine_ was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a _St.
+Evremond_ wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always
+give the Preference to a young _Alcides_.
+
+By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir,
+that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There
+is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another
+alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they
+being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of
+the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The
+Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an
+_Hebrew_ Anti-Comedian has sent for from _Paris_, on Purpose to ruin the
+Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a
+zealous Man for the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector
+should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the
+_Hague_ are Parties in this great Quarrel; but 'tis my Opinion, that in
+order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the
+other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens
+of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does
+not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they
+are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the
+Police[113].
+
+You will, no doubt, think it a Ph�nomenon, to find that a _Hebrew_, whom
+in _Germany_ we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither
+very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the
+Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste:
+But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government
+upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the
+_Portugueze_ Jews, they deserve it; for a _Texeyra_, a _Schwartzo_, a
+_Dulis_, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most
+virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would
+take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their
+Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at
+their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and
+differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue.
+
+The Nobles of the greatest Distinction in the Province, are the
+_Wassenaars_, and the _Boetselaars_.[114] The former are divided into
+several Branches, whereof that of _Obdam_ is the eldest. The Emperor
+_Charles_ III. raised this Branch to the Dignity of Count of the Empire.
+The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Grandson to the famous Admiral of that
+Name, who delivered _Copenhagen_, and in Gratitude for whose Services, the
+King of _Denmark_ conferred the Order of the Elephant upon him, which no
+Foreigner had been honour'd with before, unless he were a Prince. After
+this Admiral's Death, the same Order descended to his Son, who died a
+Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Service of
+the Republic. The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Knight of the Order of St.
+_John_, and, together with his[115] Brother, is of distinguish'd Rank in
+this Government. He spent Part of his Youth at the Court of _Berlin_,
+where his Father was Envoy Extraordinary. At that Time nobody was so brisk
+and gay; but he is thoroughly changed, and lives now very much retired,
+and applies himself wholly to Devotion and Business.
+
+Of the Blood of _Nassau Orange_, those Princes, Founders of the Republic,
+there remains no more than one young Prince, besides the Counts
+_d'Auverquerque_, _Zeist_ and _Laleck_, who are by the Left Venter. The
+Prince is Hereditary Stadtholder of _Frieseland_, Stadtholder of
+_Groningen_, Stadtholder and Captain General of the Province of
+_Guelderland_, and the Country of _Drente_. He bids fair some Day or
+other to be a worthy Possessor of the Station of the Princes whose Name he
+bears[116].
+
+_Maurice_, Count _d'Auverquerque_, is the Son of a Peer of _Great
+Britain_, who was promoted to that Dignity by King _William_ III.[117] He
+is a Major General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons. He is a
+Nobleman of distinguished Merit, and signalized himself very much in the
+last War.
+
+M. _de Zeist_, one of the richest Nobles of this Province, is Deputy of
+the Province of _Utrecht_, in which he has a great Estate.
+
+The Count _de Laleck_ is the oldest Lieutenant General of Horse in the
+Service of the States. He has a Regiment, and is Governor of _Menin_, one
+of the Barrier Towns. The three last-mentioned Counts are Cousins, and
+form three Branches. They are descended from Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_,
+and _Anne_ of _Mechlin_. My Grandmother was a Daughter of that Prince.
+
+I am still to give you an Account of M. _Hogendorp_, Receiver General of
+the State, an Office which in this Country, as well as elsewhere, is
+liable to Envy, and exposes him that exercises it, to the Censure of the
+Public. M. _Hogendorp_ has had his Share of both, for several Years: And
+tho' his Enemies have not been wanting in any Thing to ruin him, yet he
+stands his Ground, and the States approve of his Conduct. He lives with as
+great Magnificence and Splendor almost as any Subject of the Republic.
+
+In one of my former, I gave you an Account of two living Preachers at
+_Amsterdam_; and here I cannot refrain the mention of a certain Minister
+lately dead, whose Name is illustrious among those of his own Communion,
+and ours too. The Person I mean, is M. _Saurin_, who was always reckoned
+here, and in all the Provinces, one of the most eloquent Preachers, since
+the Repeal of the Edict of _Nantes_.
+
+A great Number of Epitaphs have been made for this famous Preacher; but as
+they are all good for nothing, I content myself with sending you an
+Epitaph on those very Epitaphs.
+
+                              _EPITAPHE._
+
+                        On the EPITAPHS made for
+                               M. SAURIN.
+
+      _Sous ces tisons, sans titres, sans paraphes,
+      Incognito gisent vingt Epitaphes,
+      Qu'ont arrach� de leurs maigres cerveaux,
+      Incognito vingt ch�tifs P�etereaux;
+      Difaut vouloir par detestable rime
+      Loiier encor certain Esprit sublime,
+      Dont rien ne dis, savon qu'� ses talens,
+      Vivant trouva force contradisans.
+      Chantres grossiers du bourbeux Marecage,
+      Pour Dieu, cessez votre maudit ramage!
+      Si noblement chanter n'est votre fort,
+      Dires tont court, Le_ grand Saurin _est mort._
+
+_It may be thus Engslish'd_:
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      Under these Firebrands
+      lie _incognito_, no less than a
+      Score of Epitaphs, without
+      Title or Subscription, rack'd
+      _incognito_ from the sterile Brains
+      of as many paltry Poetasters,
+      pretending by detestable Doggrel
+      to extol a certain sublime
+      Genius, of which I say nothing,
+      but that whilst he was
+      alive, he met with a great
+      many who contradicted his
+      Talents. But, for God's sake,
+      ye stupid Bards of the muddy
+      Fens, leave off your cursed
+       croaking! And as you have
+      not the Gift of noble Poetry,
+      say nothing more, than that the.
+      GREAT SAURIN is dead.
+
+During my Stay at the _Hague_, I heard much Talk of one _Armand_ a
+_Frenchman_, whose extraordinary Adventures were at that Time the
+Discourse of all Companies. He did not want Understanding, but he was one
+of the oddest and most extravagant Mortals breathing. His Passions, which
+sometimes rose to a Degree of Fury, were the Cause of all his
+Misfortunes. I have been promised the History of him, and if my Friend
+keep his Word with me, I will not fail to send it to you[118].
+
+
+           _The History of_ John Barre, _called_ ARMAND.
+
+_JOHN BARRE_, a Native of the Province of _Burgundy_, appeared at
+_Amsterdam_ in 1720, by the Name of _Armand_. He was a handsome Man, in
+the Prime of his Age, and seemed to have had a good Education. He said he
+was come from _France_, because he had killed a Man in a Duel. Any other
+Man besides himself, in a Case of the like Nature, would have been at a
+terrible _Nonplus_ to find himself pursued by Justice, and forced to fly
+from his native Country, and his Friends, without Money, into a strange
+Land, of which he understood not the Language, and thrown into a great
+City, in the midst of a numerous People, where a poor Man is so hard put
+to it to make an Acquaintance. But _Armand_ was never at a Loss for
+Stratagems to relieve him. Being a bold intriguing Man, an excellent
+Tongue-pad, and a Poet into the Bargain, or at least very ready of making
+Verses, he quickly found Means to get Acquaintance. He might even have
+passed for a Man of Quality, if Necessity had not forced him to make use
+of a Talent which was a plain Discovery of the contrary; for he shewed
+himself a complete Writing-Master, and made excellent Scholars in a very
+little Time.
+
+With this Resource, _Armand_ might have lived very happy; but the Violence
+of his Temper, and his satirical Humour, made him quickly lose his
+Patrons and best Friends. Besides these Defects, of which he was beyond
+all measure guilty, he was suspicious, haughty, self-will'd beyond
+Comparison, fantastical in every Part of his Behaviour, and an extravagant
+Admirer of his own Productions; so that a Person was sure of being thought
+the worst Enemy he had, if he did not applaud every thing he did; and
+'twas enough to put him into a Fury, if one did not think as well of his
+Verses, as he did himself. Two or three Passages only are sufficient to
+demonstrate this to be true.
+
+He lodged at the House of a Burgher, who had so great an Opinion of him,
+that he thought himself happy in having such Opportunities of Familiarity
+with a Man who had won his Heart by his Wit and his Behaviour. As they
+often eat and drank together, _Armand_ invited his Landlord one Day with
+all his Family and some Relations to a Supper, when, according to his
+usual Way, he had provided a magnificent Repast. When they were seated at
+Table, a Lady of the Company thought fit to call for a particular Sort of
+Bread, which she had been used to eat; whereupon the Landlord immediately
+sent out of the Room for some; which _Armand_ perceiving, and mistrusting
+that they thought he had not provided Bread enough, he rose nastily from
+Table, and went out, but came back again in a Moment, with a Basket full
+of Bread, which he turned topsy-turvy upon the Table: And as if this Piece
+of Rudeness was not enough, he ran out of the House like a Madman, and
+spent the rest of the Evening in walking up and down, at a great Rate,
+before his Door.
+
+Having heard, that M. _P----_, Agent for the Naval Affairs of _France_ at
+_Rotterdam_, made Verses in a very pretty Manner; he went by the
+Inspiration of _Apollo_, to pay him a Visit; and after having made him a
+Compliment on his Quality of Poet, he presented him some Verses of his own
+making, of which he earnestly desired that he would give him his Opinion.
+M. _P----_, who was not so fond of Flattery as _Armand_, made him Answer,
+That he had been misinformed; that he was far from being a good Judge of
+Poetry, and therefore hoped he would not look upon him in that Light.
+_Armand_ took his Answer for a downright Affront, and retired bluntly from
+him, not without abusing him. Nor did Mr. _C----r_, to whom he paid a
+Visit for the same Purpose, fare a whit better; and to be revenged of both
+those Gentlemen, he wrote an Epigram against them, which he pasted up one
+_Sunday_ at the Door of the _French_ Church.
+
+_Armand_ being disgusted with the Reception he met with from the Wits at
+_Rotterdam_, had recourse to the Merchants. He went to see M. _C----t_, a
+Person of known Probity, either to present his Verses to him, or to offer
+him his Service, in Quality of a Writing-Master. As M. _C----t_ was a
+little hard of Hearing, he thought it proper to apprize our Poet of it in
+the first Place; but he, imagining that 'twas only a Pretence to dismiss
+him, turned his Back upon him, and went away very much incensed at the
+Affront which he thought he had received. He had even the Rashness to fix
+up a very offensive Paper some Days after, at the Exchange, to tarnish the
+honest Man's Reputation; and the same being immediately torn down by M.
+_C----t_'s Friends, _Armand_, as soon as he heard of it, put up another,
+even more insulting than the former. M. _C----t_, to prevent his being
+again exposed to such Insults, carried his Complaints to the chief
+Magistrate of _Rotterdam_, who summoned the Author of the Advertisement
+to appear before him. _Armand_ obeyed the Writ, and pleaded in his own
+Defence, that being a Foreigner, he did not know he had done any thing
+that was prohibited by the Laws of the Country; but that having been
+lately informed of the contrary, he was willing to make the Person injured
+any Amends that should be thought proper, and promised at the same Time to
+depart the City forthwith. The Magistrate put up with his Reasons, and
+only insisted, on the Performance of his Promise. Therefore he left the
+City, and set out to his former Quarters at _Amsterdam_.
+
+The ill Success of his Verses was so far from abating his versifying
+Humour, that his Passion for Poetry was only become the stronger. At his
+Return to _Amsterdam_, he began to write Satires against his Enemies at
+_Rotterdam_, whom he accused of having ruined all his Projects. Then he
+undertook to turn the tender Amours of _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_ into
+Burlesque Verse. This Piece, full of Obscenities, and of satirical Lashes
+of his Enemies, quickly ran thro' all the Coffee-houses; and when he
+thought he had put the finishing Stroke to it, he met with a Bookseller,
+who was willing to undertake the Printing of it, tho' it had been despised
+by all good Judges.
+
+While this Work was printing, _Armand_ contracted a Friendship with the
+Count _de Bucquoy_, so well known for his Adventures and Extravagances.
+This Count too pretended to write Verses, and was as great a Rattle as
+_Armand_. Their Resemblance of each other so much in Temper, was judged at
+first to be such a Cement as would have consolidated their Friendship for
+a long Time: But a too great Freedom taken by the Count embroiled them
+implacably, and gave Rise to a Scene which had like to have been tragical.
+The Count, who was not yet perfectly acquainted with his Friend's
+Blind-side, took it into his Head one Day, as he was in _Armand_'s
+Chamber, to make a Criticism upon his Poetry, which was a little too
+severe. _Armand_, to whom nobody had ever presumed before to talk at that
+Rate, was in a furious Passion, and called his Censor an impudent Fool,
+and a Fortune-Hunter. At last the two Poets fell to Blows; but _Armand_
+being the strongest Man, he forced the Count out of his Chamber, kick'd
+him down Stairs, and so drove him into the Street.
+
+We proceed now to that fatal Accident of _Armand_'s Life, which was the
+Cause of all his Misfortunes, and brought him at last to the Scaffold.
+_Armand_ had contracted a Friendship of a long standing, with a Person of
+_Bayonne_, one _B----_, a young Fellow, who tho' destitute of a Fortune,
+had been so lucky as to marry a very rich Heiress. At the Time when the
+Public believed there was the strictest Union subsisting betwixt them,
+they were strangely surprized to hear that _B----_ had informed against
+his Friend, for a horrible Outrage; and that upon this Accusation _Armand_
+was arrested, and committed to Prison. _B----_ pretended that being one
+Day in _Armand_'s Chamber, _Armand_ shut the Door upon him, and forced
+him, with a Dagger at his Throat, to sign a Bond for a thousand Ducats.
+_Armand_'s general Character was enough to condemn him; whereas _B----_,
+on the contrary, passed for a young Man of an unblameable Behaviour; but,
+to his Misfortune, the Affair was so circumstanced, that it could not be
+duly prov'd; for, instead of calling out for Help, at least, as he went
+out of the Room, he retired without saying one Word, and did not so much
+as go and make his Complaint till two Days after: But for want of direct
+Evidence against the Prisoner, he caused Inquiry to be made into his Life
+and Conversation, and discovered, that _Armand_ was but a borrowed Name,
+and that his true one was _John Barr�_; that he had a Wife and four
+Children; that he had been Receiver of the Salt-Office at _Vezelay_ in
+_Burgundy_; in short, that he had kill'd his Brother-in-Law in the
+Country, with a Fowling-Piece; and that having fled for it, he was
+outlaw'd and condemn'd to be hang'd.
+
+When _Armand_ appear'd before the Judges, he fairly own'd what his
+Accusers had alledg'd against him, with regard to his Name, the Place of
+his Residence, and the Cause of his Flight; but he deny'd his having
+murder'd his Brother-in-Law, tho' he confessed that he had kill'd him in
+his own Defence. As what he had done in _France_, was quite out of the
+Question; the Judges were only for adhering to the Point in hand. _Armand_
+said, that _B----_ had of his own Accord given him a Bond for a thousand
+Ducats, in Acknowledgment for the Service he had done him, in lending him
+some Money, and promoting his Marriage. He pleaded his own Cause very
+courageously, without the least Trembling or Self-Contradiction. _B----_,
+on the contrary, seemed to falter in every thing that he said, which made
+it suspected by some, that he had only charg'd _Armand_, in order to have
+a Pretext for not paying the Sum that he had promised him. Yet others,
+with more Probability, ascribed _B----_'s Faint-heartedness upon this
+Occasion to his natural Timorousness, and to the Confusion into which an
+Accusation of this Nature, laid without any Proofs to support it, must
+needs cast him.
+
+_Armand_ being very urgent for an Issue of the Affair, the Judges, who
+found nothing that could support _B----_'s Pretensions, passed a Sentence,
+Whereby the latter was to pay the thousand Ducats, and the Defendant was
+to be set at Liberty, after giving Security for the said Sum, in case of
+an Appeal to the Court of _Holland_, saving to himself the Liberty of
+prosecuting his Adversary for Costs, Damages, Interest, and Reparation of
+Honour. _B----_ did not fail to appeal from that Sentence to the Court, as
+did like wise _Armand_, who having given the Security required, and
+received the thousand Ducats, shews himself thro' the whole Town, with a
+long Beard, which he suffered to grow in Prison, and which he swore should
+not be taken off till he had carried his Cause at the Court.
+
+In order to hasten the Decision of the Affair, he repaired to the _Hague_,
+where the Court at length passed a Sentence, which confirmed that of
+_Amsterdam_; and then he sued for Repair of Honour, and for Damages and
+Interests. _B----_ finding himself by this Means cast in all his Demands,
+and fearing the Consequences of the Law-Suit, thought fit to set his
+Affairs in Order, and withdrew to _France_. The Court immediately clapp'd
+a Seal upon his Effects, summon'd him three times to appear, and 'tis
+probable that he would have been condemned upon an Outlawry, if _Armand_'s
+Misbehaviour had not put a sudden Stop to the Courte of Justice. The
+Occasion of this Incident was as follows:
+
+_Armand_ was so impatient for the Issue of his Process, that he went every
+Day to teaze his Judges, who sometimes were not at Leisure to grant him
+Audience. Upon a certain Day, as he came to the Door of the
+Attorney-General, one of the Domestics told him, his Master was not at
+home; and the Man was going to shut the Door against him, when _Armand_
+said, _I know the contrary, and must needs speak with him_. Upon this they
+fell to abusing one another, when _Armand_, losing all Patience, struck
+the Domestic several Blows, and put the whole House in an Alarm, for which
+he was carried to Prison; from whence however he might have had a speedy
+Deliverance, if he would but have confessed his Fault, and made the
+Attorney-General proper Satisfaction: But instead of doing this, he
+behaved to Mr. Attorney in a strange Manner, and threatened to be revenged
+of him. But he paid dear for his Insolence, and was sentenced to lie in
+Prison twelve Years. He remained there till 1734, when the Court thought
+fit to remove him to another Town, till the Expiration of the Term
+mentioned in the Sentence. _Armand_ being acquainted with this Resolution,
+imagined, no doubt, that he was now to be treated with more Severity than
+ever, and perhaps that he should be privately dispatched; and from that
+Time he had no Command of himself. He formed a Design to murder the
+Archers when they came to meddle with him, or at least to prevent their
+seizing him; and for this Purpose he had taken one of the Bed-posts, which
+he not only armed with Nails, but fastened the Blade of a Penknife at one
+End of it. Being thus prepared for his Defence, on the Day appointed for
+his Removal; two Archers came to take him, of whom he ripp'd up the Guts
+of one, and broke two Ribs of the other. After this, none of the Archers
+durst venture to come near him, till the following Stratagem was thought
+of, by which they effectually quelled him. Two Archers were ordered to
+make each a Hole in the Wall of the Prison, and at the very Instant when
+_Armand_ was peeping through one of them, to examine the Cause of it, a
+Pistol was discharg'd in his Face, loaded with Sand, which put his Eyes,
+Tongue and Face into such an Agony, that he was not able to defend
+himself, but surrendered, and begged Quarter. At the same Time he was
+seized, and clapped in Irons. When he was under Examination, he confessed,
+that his Design was to murder any one that offered to remove him; and that
+he would do it again, if it were in his Power; which Circumstance was such
+an Aggravation of his Crime, that he was condemned to lose his Head.
+
+The View of approaching Death was so far from being shocking to him, that
+he seemed perfectly unconcerned. But what was very observable in this
+unaccountable Man, was that the dreadful Prospect of the infamous Death he
+had so justly deserved, was so far from engrossing his Thoughts, that it
+did not in the least abate the Fondness he had always discovered for his
+Verses; so that at the very Time when a Minister was preparing him for
+Eternity, he interrupted him short, by telling him, _Sir, Here are some
+Verses of my own composing; I desire you would let me read them to you. I
+always loved to divert myself with Works of this Sort_. An Attorney, who
+was present at the same Time, performing the Office of a Comforter, seemed
+to be shock'd at the Reading of a Composition so unsuitable to one in such
+Circumstances; but _Armand_, looking on him with a very angry Countenance,
+told him in plain Terms, That he was an Ass; and that he wondered how a
+Man of his Profession, an Attorney, at constant Variance with Heaven, and
+for ever and ever accursed, should take it into his Head to turn
+Comforter, and pretend to make Peace between God and Man.
+
+The Day of Execution being[119] come, he was carried before the Judges to
+hear Sentence of Death passed upon him: But they had scarce begun to
+pronounce it, when he grew strangely outrageous, and said, 'twas unjust
+to read his Sentence to him in a Language which he did not understand. It
+was to no Purpose that they told him, it should be explained to him in
+_French_; for he still rav'd on in the same Strain; so that they were
+obliged to stop his Mouth with a Handkerchief, which they held tight
+behind, by both Ends. However, upon his making a Sign that it strain'd him
+too much, they slacken'd it, and then he promised, that if they would take
+it quite off, he would keep a profound Silence. He was attended to the
+Place of Execution by a Minister, and saluted such of his Acquaintance as
+he saw mixed in the Crowd, with a Smile. When he was on the Scaffold, and
+fixed his Eyes on the Gallows, he turned pale, saying, that he had been
+promised different Treatment, and that he did not think he should be
+turned out of the World in the Manner for which he saw that Preparation.
+They encouraged him, by telling him, that he should only have his Head cut
+off, if he did not use Violence; but that if he did, he should be hanged,
+and hoisted up to the Gallows by a Pully, there for that Purpose. He made
+Answer, that he did not care to swing out of the World by a Halter. He
+then asked the Executioner, if he was perfect in his Business; to which he
+answered in the Affirmative, adding, That he had by his Dexterity made
+sixteen Heads leap already, with very good Success, and that he hoped his
+would be the seventeenth to do him Honour. Then _Armand_ demanded where
+the Sword was, and the Executioner told him, that it should be ready at
+the Time. At last the fatal Moment being come, he fell on his Knees, and
+as soon as his Eyes were blinded, he had his Head struck off at one Blow.
+
+I have nothing particular to tell you of the Palace at _Honslaerdyck_, and
+of the[120] _House in the Wood_, which belong to the King of _Prussia_,
+because they are neither of 'em what they were formerly. They are running
+so to Decay, that shortly they will not deserve the Mention. As I passed
+to _Honslaerdyck_, I went thro' the Village of _Loosduinen_, where I saw
+in a Church, the Basin, in which, 'tis said, were baptized the three
+hundred and sixty-five Children, of which a Countess of _Holland_ was
+delivered at one[121] Birth, in Pursuance of the Wish, or rather Curse of
+a poor Woman, who having a Charge of Children, and coming to beg Alms of
+her, was not only denied, but rebuked for having so many Children;
+whereupon she wished, that the Countess, who was then pregnant, might be
+brought to Bed of as many Children as there were Days in the Year; which
+happened accordingly. This remarkable Event is set forth in a Picture
+carefully preserved in the Church.
+
+The Palace of[122] _Ryswic_, where the Peace was signed in 1697, being in
+no better Condition than that of _Honslaerdyck_, I did not think fit to
+strike out of the fine Road to DELFT, to go and see it. This Town, which
+is a League from the _Hague_, has nothing remarkable to be view'd, besides
+the Tomb of _William_ I. Prince of _Orange_, who was assassinated at
+_Delft_, in 1584, by _Balthasar Gerard_, of the _Franche Comt�_. The
+Republic which caused this _Mausoleum_ to be erected, spar'd no Cost to
+leave Posterity a Monument worthy of its Founders, and of their Gratitude
+for the signal Services which had been done them by that Hero. The Arsenal
+for the Land Service of this State, is at _Delft_, and there are few in
+_Europe_ that are better furnished, or kept more in Order. This Town
+drives a great Trade in earthen Ware. As it is at the same Distance from
+_Ryswic_ as the _Hague_, the Ambassadors of _France_ resided here during
+the Congress. 'Tis now inhabited by several People, who either from being
+weary of the World, or by Reason of Misfortunes, have chose Retirement.
+From hence you will imagine, 'tis not a very gay Place, so that I made no
+Stay here, nor no Acquaintance.
+
+ROTTERDAM, three Leagues from _Delft_, is by much the most populous Place,
+and is only inferior to _Amsterdam_, on Account of its Commerce. Its
+Situation on the _Maese_, six Leagues from the Sea, gives it a
+Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_, and the neighbouring
+Provinces, both by means of that River, and several Canals and Rivers that
+fall into it. Its greatest Trade is with _England_ and _France_, and here
+are three _English_ Churches, _viz._ One that is Episcopal, or of the
+Church of _England_ by Law establish'd, one _Presbyterian_, and one
+_Scots_. As to us Catholics, we have several Churches here in Chambers,
+and the Jews have a neat Synagogue.
+
+The Statue of _Erasmus_, the Restorer of the _Latin_ Tongue, which is
+placed in the Market-place, is altogether plain. This learned Man is
+represented in the Habit of a Doctor, holding a Book in his Hand. The
+Pedestal is plainly decorated with a _Latin_ Inscription, as is the House
+where he was born, which is preserved just as it was then, and is a very
+small and mean Building. 'Tis said, that on the same Square where
+_Erasmus_'s Statue stands, the Magistrates intend to erect a Stadthouse,
+of which they are really in great Need, that which they have being a very
+sorry one. If this Project takes, it were to be wished that they may
+employ a more able Architect, and a more diligent one than they have made
+use of in building an Exchange, which has been a long Time begun, and is
+but half finish'd yet. 'Tis true, that as it is, 'tis too large for the
+Number of Merchants that meet in it; but after all, 'tis amazing that a
+City, which has the Reputation of being wealthy, should let one of its
+principal Edifices stand unfinish'd.
+
+There are some magnificent Houses in this Town, but its greatest Ornament
+is its Canals, broad and deep enough for the Entrance of Shipping, which
+is a great Convenience to its Trade. I know not how sociable the People
+are at _Rotterdam_; for tho' I have gone through it several times, I never
+stay'd long enough there to make any Acquaintance in it. I always took the
+Air for most part upon the fine Kay that runs along the _Maese_, which is
+beautified with a pleasant Row of Trees on one Side, and noble Houses on
+the other.
+
+From _Rotterdam_ I went thro' _Maeslandsluys_ to the BRILLE, a well
+fortified Town upon the _Maese_, near the Mouth of that River. This Town
+is famous in the History of the _Netherlands_, because in the Year 1572,
+_William de Lumai_, Count _de la Marck_, and some of his Confederates, who
+went out to Sea, to avoid falling into the Hands of the Duke of _Alva_,
+took it by Surprize, and there laid the first Foundations of the Liberty
+of the United Provinces.
+
+When I left the _Brille_, I came to HELVOETSLUYS, the saddest Place in all
+_Holland_. The Winds, which have been boisterous for some Days, hinder the
+Packet-Boat and me from setting out for _England_. In the mean time, I am
+very ill here. I am cramm'd twice a Day with boil'd Ducks, roasted Ducks,
+and others tossed up with a high Rago�, and yet I am ask'd if I will not
+please to have more Seasoning. Perhaps it was this Town only that a
+certain _Frenchman_ had seen, when he said that he had taken Notice of but
+three Things in _Holland_, and they began all three with the Syllable Ca,
+_viz._ _Canals_, _Canards_ (Ducks), and _Canaille_, _i. e._ Mob; for
+certainly there are other Things to be seen in the rest of Holland, where
+there are as many genteel People as in any Country in the World. Nay, I
+dare affirm, that a certain Candour prevails here, which is perhaps not so
+general elsewhere. 'Tis rare for a _Dutchman_ to know the Arts of Tricking
+and Cheating, and he is of a friendly Disposition, if his Purse be out of
+the Question. If they were not so much in Love with their Money, there
+would be as few Faults to find with this Nation as any. I could like to
+live with 'em very well. When one treats them with Civility, one may do
+any thing with 'em. And it was a Saying of the Emperor _Charles_ V. _You
+must give the_ Dutch _good Words, leave 'em the Shadow of Liberty, but
+make them pay well for it_.
+
+Be these People as much as they will for their own Interest, they are
+charitable, and would have every one live. They have not perhaps that gay
+Wit, which is of all Things so taking; but then they have good Sense. I
+have often taken a Place in the Boats, on purpose to hear what was said
+there; and have been surprised to find the common People talk of Trade, of
+the Interests of the State, and of other Countries, of the Manners of
+different People, of the History of their own Country, and in short, of a
+thousand other Things, with more Justness, perhaps, than a great many
+Epigrammatists, Stanza-makers, and Rhymesters could do elsewhere.
+
+For the rest, this Country is as charming in some Things, as it is
+disagreeable in others. 'Tis certain, that the People are now and then too
+insolent; yet a _Dutchman_ does not care to be the first to give an
+Affront; and unless a Foreigner provokes him by his Pride, or his
+Pertness, he will indulge himself in his Phlegm.
+
+I can't imagine why Foreigners take a Pleasure to run down _Holland_, as a
+Country where they have been skinn'd. This might have been the Case with
+'em in such a Hole as _Helvoetsluys_, or else at _Rotterdam_, when one
+_Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee, kept the Sign there of the Marshal _de
+Turenne_; but 'tis not so in a good Town, where every Foreigner, I mean
+such as are willing to be sociable, and to eat at the Landlord's Table,
+know what they have for their Money. The Ordinary is settled, Wine,
+Lodging, and every Thing at a certain Price. Suppers are the only Meals
+that plunge deep in a Man's Purse, of which a Foreigner must be cautious.
+As to Carriages, either by Land or Water, the Fare is fixed; and 'tis
+impossible for a Man to be cheated, unless it be in frosty Weather, when
+'tis certain one is at the Mercy both of the Watermen and Coachmen.
+
+'Tis wrong also for some Foreigners to cry out, as they do, against
+Justice, which I find more impartial here than elsewhere. But it does not
+always act with the Vivacity which a Foreigner would wish for, who often
+has neither the Time, nor the Means, nor the Inclination to wait for it.
+He then finds fault with Justice, when he ought rather to blame the
+Situation of his Affairs.
+
+I fear that you will be angry with me for having abused your Attention by
+this long Letter, which I now conclude, by assuring you, that nobody can
+be more intirely than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _London, April 12, 1733._
+
+'Tis not possible for me to be insensible how greatly I am obliged to you
+for that Uneasiness which you seem to be under, till you can hear of my
+Arrival in some safe Harbour of this Kingdom, tho' 'tis no more than what
+I expected from such a Friend as you. I should have prevented your Anxiety
+upon this Score, if I had not thought it proper to take a little View of
+this Country, before I wrote one Word to you about it; and now I flatter
+myself that I am able to satisfy your Curiosity.
+
+I had one of the most favourable Passages that could be; for in less than
+eighteen Hours, I came from _Helvoetsluys_ to _Harwich_, which is the
+Harbour for the Packet-Boats that pass betwixt this Kingdom and _Holland_.
+
+_Harwich_ not seeming to me to be worth a Traveller's Notice, I only
+stopped to hire Horses, and came with all Speed to London. _That City_,
+which for its Extent, the Number of its Inhabitants, and their Wealth, may
+pass, not only for the Capital of a powerful Kingdom, but even for the
+Capital of _Europe_: _That City_, where True Liberty bears Rule; where the
+Arts and Sciences are cultivated and protected; where the Inhabitants
+enjoy the Goods of Fortune without vain Ostentation; where Merit is
+considered, and Birth highly valued, when 'tis accompanied with Virtue:
+_That City_, in fine, where are still to be found those _Roman_ Souls,
+which other Nations admire, but know not how to imitate.
+
+Yet _London_, with all the Attributes I have now given it, with its
+magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane, cannot be rank'd among
+the finest Cities; for many of its Streets being dirty and ill-paved, its
+Houses of Brick, not very high, nor adorn'd with Architecture, but
+blacken'd with the unmerciful Smoke of Coal-fires, gives it a dark Hue,
+which renders it far less agreeable than it would be otherwise.
+
+The Riches of _London_, if not of all _England_, are owing to the
+_Thames_, and the Citizens set more Value by this River, than by any other
+Advantage that they enjoy: Of this a certain old Alderman had the Courage
+to give King _Charles_ II. a convincing Proof, at a Time when that Monarch
+was so extremely angry with the City of _London_, that when the Lord Mayor
+and Aldermen went to Court, with a View to pacify him, he exclaimed
+bitterly against them, and told 'em, that he knew how to make them feel
+the whole Weight of his Resentment, and that he would for that End remove
+his Court to _Oxford_. At this the old Alderman, who pretended to be hard
+of Hearing, said to a Nobleman that was present at the Audience, loud
+enough to be over-heard by the King, _What says his Majesty_, my Lord?
+_Will he in his Wrath take the_ Thames _from us?_ Meaning thereby, that
+since the King could not take that River from the City, the Inhabitants
+would not be sorry for his going to _Oxford_. Indeed, in all my Travels I
+never saw a finer Sight than this River, from its Mouth to
+_London_-Bridge: For besides its being continually covered with Ships,
+Barges, Boats, &c. going up and down with the Tide, its Banks are adorned
+with a Variety of fine Scenes, such as Towns, Villages, and
+Country-Houses. Among others, there's the great and magnificent Hospital
+of _Greenwich_, founded in the Reign of _Charles_ II. for disabled Seamen,
+or the Invalids of the Navy. Tho' this Structure is not yet finish'd, it
+may be rank'd amongst the most considerable in _Europe_, and is not
+inferior in Grandeur to many Royal Palaces. Its Situation also is so
+charming, that were it for that alone, it were worth while to take a Turn
+on Purpose to see it.
+
+_London_ stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent.
+The famous Bridge upon which Queen _Elizabeth_ caused the Head of the Earl
+of _Essex_ to be exposed, after having flatter'd him that he should one
+Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp'd by Houses on both Sides,
+which are neither fine nor lofty.
+
+St. _Paul_'s Church, the Cathedral of _London_, is, next to St. _Peter_'s
+at _Rome_, the greatest and most stately Temple in _Europe;_ and I even
+question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. _Peter_'s, if
+it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only
+the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar'd. The
+principal Front of St. _Paul_'s is of that sort of Architecture which the
+old _Romans_, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have
+thought unworthy of their Time; tho' 'tis certain this beautiful Front is
+render'd the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very
+_Gothic_ Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This
+whole Fabric stands by itself, and is built in the Form of a Cross, with
+a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos
+on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the principal Front there's an
+Area, encompass'd with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white
+marble Statue of Queen _Anne_, in whose Reign this Church was finish'd;
+which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of
+_Charles_ II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her
+Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but 'tis so much like a
+Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an[123] _Amende
+honorable_: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it
+represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of
+_London_, by whose Order 'twas erected. All the Church is of very white
+Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of _London_, has rendered black on one
+Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome
+only is painted of an _Ash_ Colour. The Choir (for the Church of _England_
+retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just
+such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the
+Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or
+Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they assist at _Te Deum_, are
+of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The
+subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain Vaults, in which
+are interred such People as they belong to.
+
+The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which
+consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King _Charles_ II. is a
+very lofty Pillar of the _Doric_ Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in
+the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence
+there's a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes.
+
+The _Royal-Exchange_, where the Merchants meet at One o'Clock every Day,
+is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned
+with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of
+it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the
+Statues of the Kings that have reigned in _England_; which are of
+Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King _Charles_ II. in
+whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and
+is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a _Roman_
+Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in _London_; where indeed
+Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can't conceive;
+since most of the _English_ Nobility have been in _Italy_, and have there
+acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious.
+
+The famous Tower of _London_, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this
+Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the _Thames_, at the Extremity of the
+City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without
+Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself,
+Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the Arsenal of Arms; and in
+this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro' good
+Fortune, the Reign of King _George_ II. now upon the Throne, has been so
+free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners.
+
+As one goes up the _Thames_ towards St. _James_'s, End of the Town, where
+the King and most of the Nobility reside, one passes along by a Palace
+called the _Savoy_, because it was built by the Princes of _Savoy_, Uncles
+of Queen _Eleanor_ of _Provence_, Wife to _Henry_ III. This Building has
+nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The
+Chamber is still to be seen here in which _John_ II. King of _France_ was
+imprisoned, who, like _Regulus_, came and re-delivered himself into the
+Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not
+disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which
+were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to _France_.
+
+The Palace of _Whitehall_, which is the common Landing-place for People
+that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly
+before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of
+_William_ and _Mary_. There's a Pile of Building yet standing, which is
+magnificent, and is called the _Banquetting-House_. I was here shewn the
+very Window which the unfortunate _Charles_ I. came out of, when the
+Usurper _Cromwel_ made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the
+Buildings called by the Name of _Whitehall_, are now in the Hands of
+private Owners, by Grants of the late King _George_ I.
+
+St. _James_'s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from
+_Whitehall_ by St. _James_'s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable
+to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes
+in _Europe_ worse lodged than the King of _England_. I have been assured,
+that the Nation offered the late King _George_ I. to build him a new
+Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his
+Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he
+thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for
+the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of
+Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was
+more urgent, and more useful.
+
+St. _James_'s Park is the same Thing here as the _Thuilleries_ are at
+_Paris_; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow
+Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Canal in the middle of the whole. Mean
+time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ'd, tho'
+the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. _Charles_
+II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make
+Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to _Paris_ for the
+famous _Le Neautre_, the Man that laid out the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, and the Park at _Versailles_. But this _Frenchman_, after
+having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did,
+assuring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The
+grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but
+especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in
+it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of
+the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or
+Character, to walk there at the same Time with 'em; for which Reason the
+Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the
+most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear
+here in rich Dresses; for the _English_, who Twenty Years ago did not wear
+Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb'd as much as
+the _French_; I speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still
+contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine
+Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don't
+make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere.
+
+Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of _Marlborough_ and
+_Buckingham_ are the most considerable. The former is very richly
+furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. 'Tis occupied by the
+Dowager of that great Duke of _Marlborough_, who led the _English_ to
+triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble.
+
+_Buckingham_ House is not so big as _Marlborough_ House, but infinitely
+better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. _James_'s Park, and is
+only separated from it by Grates of Iron. 'Tis one grand Building, with
+two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of
+the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle
+of the Court there's a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and
+magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Canal, which was
+actually begun, but remains unfinish'd. This fine House is occupied by the
+Duchess Dowager of _Buckingham_, a natural Daughter of King _James_ II.
+
+St. _James_'s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of _London_ in
+general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and
+want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that
+cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that _Lewis_
+XIV. offered _Charles_ II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave _London_,
+provided _Charles_ would furnish him with Gravel from _England_, to lay in
+the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true, I know not; but
+it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the _English_
+Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and _London_ is
+still the Sufferer for want of it.
+
+There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my
+Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning
+them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving
+them. As these are encompassed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much
+like Church-yards. St. _James_'s Square is the most considerable in
+_London_, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of
+the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece
+of Water, surrounded with an iron Balustrade. Three Sides of this Square
+are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the
+fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this
+Square live the Earl of _Strafford_, Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_; and the Duke of _Norfolk_, a _Roman_ Catholic, Earl
+Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of _England_, Chief of the
+Illustrious Family of _Howard_; from whence was descended _Catharine_ the
+Fifth Wife of _Henry_ VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the
+unfortunate _Anne Bullen_, who preceded her. The Duke of _Norfolk_'s House
+here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures.
+
+_Grosvenor_'s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St.
+_James_'s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle
+of the Garden is the Statue of King _George_ I. on Horseback, of Lead,
+gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in
+_London_, the best is that of _Charles_ I. represented on Horseback in
+Brass. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper
+_Cromwell_ having caused it to be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a
+Founder, who happen'd to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it
+under Ground, till the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to whom he made a
+Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at _Charing-Cross_,
+where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image
+that has escap'd the Fury of the _Iconoclastes_.
+
+Since, the Accession of the _Hanover_ Family to the Throne of _Great
+Britain_, _London_ is infinitely larger than it was. There's one intire
+Quarter goes by the Name of _Hanover_. The Parliament being apprehensive,
+that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself,
+pass'd an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new
+Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would
+nevertheless have been too large.
+
+I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to
+give you a general Idea of _London_, and not a very exact Plan, that being
+a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed.
+Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you
+with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to
+Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of _Montagu_, Son-in-Law to the
+late Duke of _Marlborough_, is the most considerable. The Apartments are
+large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly
+those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of _Phaethon_
+is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are
+not furnish'd, and 'tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House
+to the Count _de Montijo_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador.
+
+Of the modern Churches that of St. _James_, which is the Parochial Church
+of the Court, is the finest, having a Portico before it, supported by
+Columns, after the Manner of the _Rotunda_ at _Rome_.
+
+The Abby Church of _Westminster_, in which the Kings are crown'd and
+interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings,
+and other Persons illustrious either for their Birth or Merit. _Henry_ the
+VIIth's Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very
+magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of _Newcastle_. That of the
+late Mr. _Craggs_, who was Secretary of State to King _George_ the Ist, is
+plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the
+_Grecian_ Manner, and leaning in a very noble Attitude upon an Urn. The
+famous _St. Evremont_ has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The
+Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a
+short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his
+Friend my Lord _Galloway_.
+
+Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is
+one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the
+Stone which served for _Jacob_'s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious
+Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much
+neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that
+pious King _James_ II. The _English_ would do well to make a Present of it
+to the Republic of _Venice_, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with
+the Piece of _Moses_'s Rock in St. _Mark_'s Church. The Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ shew'd me a Piece of it, when I was last at _Rome_: He told
+me, that he stole it in his Return from _Portugal_, where he had been
+Ambassador, when he came to _London_ with a Commission from the Emperor to
+King _George_ I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty
+of in his Life; and that he should have been exceeding scrupulous of
+committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour'd in _England_ as it
+deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help
+filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a
+Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen'd to be looking
+another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been
+so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had
+given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece;
+and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole
+Stone. O Lord! cry'd the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish
+then I had purchased it.
+
+In _Westminster_ Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which _Edward_ I. that
+proud Conqueror of _Scotland_, caused to be brought from the Abbey of
+_Scoon_ to that of _Westminster_, in order to give the _Scots_ to
+understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country.
+Ever since that Time the Kings of _England_ have made it a Rule to be
+seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation.
+
+The Palace of _Westminster_, tho' formerly noted for the Residence of the
+Kings, and now for the Assembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain.
+The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one
+of the largest in _Europe_.
+
+The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not
+much ornamented, nor is the King's Throne in it at all magnificent: They
+say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an
+Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of
+_Great Britain_ being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august
+Body in the Universe.
+
+When the King goes to meet his Parliament, 'tis with all the Splendor of
+Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress'd in Royal
+Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King
+of _France_, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac'd in a Corner,
+with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of _Wales_ alone,
+as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers
+sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet
+had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the
+late King his Father there; and I assure you, that the Sight of this
+august Assembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don't
+know that I was ever impress'd with before. When I saw that King, the Best
+and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal Assent to what the Peers
+of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I
+thought I saw _Augustus_ in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the
+Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless
+the Parliament does not always applaud the King's Measures; but on the
+contrary makes a noble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon
+the public Liberty. 'Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which
+depriv'd the _Stuart_ Family of the Throne, the Kings and their
+Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the
+Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he
+finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant.
+All that find Fault with the _English_ for Disaffection to their Kings,
+have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who
+think a King of _Great Britain_ is to be pity'd because he is not
+absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A Monarch of _England_ is
+capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no
+Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this
+Expression, 'tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What
+needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man
+can be pitied, because 'tis not in his Power to make Millions of People
+miserable? For my part, I think that the _English_, who do not stand up
+for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who
+oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is
+once established.
+
+What I admire in the _English_, is not only the Firmness with which they
+plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we
+see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their
+Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An _Englishman_, on the
+contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what
+the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the
+State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish'd and
+far-fetch'd, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and
+enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true
+_English_ Nobleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his
+Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him:
+He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose
+the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King
+has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being
+solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An
+_Englishman_ who should write such Letters as _Bussi Rabutin_ wrote to
+_Lewis_ XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised in _England_, as
+_Bussi_ was esteemed in _France_. They that are out of Favour, are not
+shunn'd here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being
+abandoned by their Friends, that a Nobleman has often a greater Levee in
+his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can't but
+think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is
+sometimes push'd too far. I have been told, _a propos_, that Queen
+_Catharine_ of _Portugal_, Wife of _Charles_ II. having forbad a certain
+Lady to come to Court, for having behav'd in a Manner that gave Offence,
+the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she assured
+her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again,
+'till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen
+was dead, and exposed to View at _Westminster_.
+
+His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D----ess of _Q----y_
+to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that
+Lady's Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign'd
+his Employment of V----e A----l of _Sc----d_, and absented himself from
+Court; but the D----ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as
+ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only
+shunn'd here for being a Criminal, or a Coward.
+
+There's no King serv'd with greater Respect than a King of _Great
+Britain_: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very
+numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his
+Court is always very much throng'd; and in short, he wants nothing of the
+Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable
+for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and
+responsible to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong.
+
+The present King is not tall, but very well shap'd, has a stately Port, a
+very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The
+_French_, _English_, and the _Italian_ Languages are as familiar to him as
+the _German_. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear
+the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur,
+he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an [OE]conomist,
+without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a
+Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively
+Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the
+other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a
+quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of
+_Hanover_, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the _Netherlands_ at the
+Battles of _Oudenarde_ and _Malplaquet_; as Prince of _Wales_, he shew'd
+that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he
+makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His
+People are happy under his Reign. In _England_ his only Study is to
+maintain the Peace and Balance of _Europe_, to make Commerce flourish, and
+to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At _Hanover_
+he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their
+Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his
+Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of
+their Kings, his _Britannic_ Majesty may hope for one of the longest of
+Reigns.
+
+The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges
+Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic,
+but accompany'd with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most
+courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is
+adorn'd with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look'd upon all the
+trifling Amusements of her Sex with Disdain; and particularly never
+affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one
+of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the
+most learned Princesses in _Europe_. Having lost the Margrave of
+_Brandenburg Anspach_ her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother
+the Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_ marrying again to _John George_ IV.
+Elector of _Saxony_, she was left under the Guardianship of _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenburg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_; by which means she
+spent Part of her early Days at the Court of _Berlin_, where the
+Electoress, who was Sister to the late King _George_ I. gave her a
+Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime
+Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach'd her. The
+young Princess of _Anspach_ had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and
+the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of _Charles_ III. King of
+_Spain_, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But
+the Princess was so strongly attach'd to her Religion, that she refused
+both. God reserv'd her, no doubt, to make _Great Britain_ happy, and she
+married the Electoral Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. Not many Years
+after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her
+Father-in-Law and her Husband call'd to the Possession of one of the chief
+Thrones in the World. I was then at _Hanover_, and will venture to assure
+you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their
+Greatness with a Moderation which render'd them worthy of their Fortune;
+and the Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly
+satisfy'd in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that
+both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye,
+because they so highly deserved that Title. When she became Princess of
+_Wales_, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which
+then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her,
+and she in return paid him very great Respect. And[124]now that she is
+Queen, her Majesty contributes all that's in her Power to make the
+Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the
+Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence.
+
+Among the Joys of their _Britannic_ Majesties we ought to reckon the
+numerous Family with which Heaven has bless'd 'em. It consists of two
+Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and Title of
+Prince of _Wales_, tho' he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when
+among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish'd to be the chief Personage. He
+is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said
+of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous.
+He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating
+Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is
+Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is
+perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing
+that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The _Hanoverians_, among whom he
+was educated, ador'd him, and the _English_ seem altogether as fond of
+him.
+
+The young Duke of _Cumberland_, second Son to their Majesties, resembles
+what the Painters represent to us by the Name of _Cupid_. He has Sense
+infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He
+speaks _English_, _High-Dutch_, _Latin_, and _French_; and I think more
+than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen
+Years of Age[125].
+
+Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other
+two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the
+_Princess Royal_[126], has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty
+and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as
+engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all
+Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of
+good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to
+Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing;
+and they say, she is generous and beneficent. 'Tis a Pleasure to see her
+on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the
+Virtues becoming her high Birth.
+
+The Princesses _Amelia_ and _Caroline_, were they not the most shining
+Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot
+fail in time of making some Prince or other happy.
+
+With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter,
+which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks
+without Delay. In the mean time be assured, that I am always with an
+inviolable Attachment, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _London, May 4, 1733._
+
+The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court.
+The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that
+Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don't
+seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of
+unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve
+to fatigue it.
+
+'Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their
+Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to
+send in one's Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty's Lord
+Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen's Master of the Horse.
+People go to the King's Levee, and the Queen's Drawing-Room, as they do in
+_France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none
+eat with 'em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square,
+in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_
+on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service
+here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is
+plac'd in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very
+Cieling, which are fill'd with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same
+Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at Court. Three times
+a Week there's an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is
+open'd at Ten o'Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the
+said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the
+Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St.
+_James_'s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who
+is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters.
+Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they
+are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy
+to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal,
+and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little
+before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there's no
+Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the
+Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_'s Park, or
+the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most
+part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which
+Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal
+_Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV.
+began to build; was reckon'd the finest Palace in _Europe_.
+
+The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his
+Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT
+WALPOLE is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_
+that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not
+less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary
+Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of
+_Europe_; where 'tis confess'd to be owing to his Direction that the
+Cabinet of St. _James_'s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and
+that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all
+Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended
+with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho' admir'd by the
+whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly
+valued in his own Country, which he crown'd with Glory and Prosperity. I
+shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman's private Character,
+because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business
+with him, I see him pass along; and that's all. I want some Neutral Man
+(that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that
+knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so
+fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights
+as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk'd of in Public as one that
+understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who
+thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom
+nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there's no Man more
+bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true
+Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament;
+where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass'd; and the
+Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.
+
+His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of
+Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know,
+was for a long time Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_,
+and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign'd the
+Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when
+the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at
+which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in
+Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_
+I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him
+with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his
+constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny'd
+that his Lordship behav'd with very great Prudence in the Changes that
+happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This
+Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I
+made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul'd by the Duke of
+_Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that
+Duke. "He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom
+with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all
+the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we
+had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress;
+that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could
+happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him,
+that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and
+but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the
+Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach
+myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an
+Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the
+Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me
+was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_
+Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To
+which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that
+I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in
+Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him." In the same Conversation
+the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the
+profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when
+Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and
+Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the
+Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he
+has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no
+great Expence.
+
+The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely
+civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs,
+in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel
+_Stanhope_, gain'd Reputation as Ambassador in _Spain_, and at the
+Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can
+vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the
+World. He is good-natur'd, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy
+of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will
+like him.
+
+I don't think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so
+haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think,
+that they who say the _English_ are not civil to Foreigners, have not been
+very conversant with 'em. 'Tis true, they are not so engaging as the
+_French_; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and
+courts their Favour, in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil
+as any other People in the World. An _Englishman_ won't be saying at every
+Turn, _That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has
+the Honour to say, to hear_, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps
+once in a Conversation, and that's all; nor, on the other hand, does he
+want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows.
+As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as
+frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the
+_English_ are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly
+all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their
+Travels to _France_, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come
+into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they
+have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire.
+
+There are some _English_ People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget
+the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage
+to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and
+ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was
+convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper,
+which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast
+is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take
+Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself,
+and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In
+short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I
+shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me,
+that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People,
+'tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them
+understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don't care to speak foreign
+Languages; and when they do, 'tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now
+Constraint is what the _English_ don't at all like; for as they enjoy the
+greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to
+every Thing which cramps it.
+
+Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what
+the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so
+much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the
+Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not
+following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these
+two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by
+several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the
+one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great
+a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it
+seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom,
+and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don't surfeit
+themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and
+which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my
+Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a
+complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled
+to the Manners and Customs of the _English_.
+
+A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a
+Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho' they differ widely
+in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their
+Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho' _London_ has not
+such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as
+senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a
+great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion
+and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I
+think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are
+as many at _London_ as at _Paris_.
+
+The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what
+Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter,
+and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to
+prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are
+more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the
+Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St.
+_Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of
+Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of
+_England_. We don't hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are
+committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here
+than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given
+them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to
+give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. 'Tis
+inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their
+Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I
+give you the following, because I think 'twas very well contrived.
+
+As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely
+bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of
+the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale,
+where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach,
+said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; 'tis worth a hundred Pieces
+between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood
+his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his
+Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing
+that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him,
+that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so
+that my Lord could not recover his Money.
+
+As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much
+more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder
+near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon
+the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe,
+he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he
+sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came
+hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They
+gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he
+was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were
+just going to condemn him, when he ask'd them, At what o'Clock the Murder
+was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to
+think_, said he, _that 'twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of
+which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place
+where 'twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to
+be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty.
+Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask'd him
+privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise
+to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.
+
+I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you,
+that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their
+Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There
+are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is
+condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or
+Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank
+with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than
+twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found.
+The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be
+agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed
+Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but
+two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which
+the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.
+
+It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as
+humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions;
+as if 'twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that 'twas not enough to
+take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one
+Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.
+
+The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason
+of the Courage with which most of 'em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw
+five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well
+pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not
+performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not
+that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes
+a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows
+here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of
+it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the
+Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull
+him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without
+Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least
+of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.
+
+'Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be
+intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of
+that Contempt of Life; yet we can't help admiring it in the _Romans_, from
+whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End
+to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but
+too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well
+as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters
+from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang'd themselves
+at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought
+unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not
+apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror.
+Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for
+such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other
+Nations don't seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the
+_English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one
+rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the
+_English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater
+Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?
+
+A great many of 'em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if
+I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be
+for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty
+and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and
+such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho' not universally pleasing, yet
+captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I
+should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are
+handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to
+pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. 'Tis a Pleasure to see
+them blush. The frankest of 'em retain an Air of Modesty, which would
+persuade one, that they don't affect to be wicked. They are commonly very
+richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies,
+which is the only Fault that I find with 'em. They seem to affect Dressing
+to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves,
+which don't reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no
+Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat
+Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and
+monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and 'tis as rare to
+see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a
+full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_
+a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in
+their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set
+themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should
+be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and
+Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country,
+which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good
+Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of
+the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is
+very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill
+becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I
+believe 'tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning
+Virtue.
+
+The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give
+and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being
+seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most
+Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks,
+Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved,
+have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their
+Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly
+of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look'd upon one
+another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other
+Place where there's a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue
+stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn
+out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in
+form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and
+in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take
+the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind
+to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble
+themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and
+of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their
+Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here
+than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great
+deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_'s Love for
+_Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country.
+
+The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have
+known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought
+_London_ too dull a Place for 'em to live in. Others would argue with me,
+that there's more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related
+to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have
+given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be
+taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify'd_ or _Italianized
+Englishmen_, and me.
+
+A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a
+Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the
+other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee,
+has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium
+betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the
+Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes
+his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body'd Coat,
+without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword
+at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly
+the Place he walks to, because 'tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There
+he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes
+home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or
+Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for 'tis a sort
+of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this
+Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often
+look at one another, without opening their Lips; and 'tis very well they
+are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other
+Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no
+hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in
+St. _James_'s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time,
+is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes,
+and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs
+nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o'Clock, they go to
+Court, to the King's Levee, and from thence to the Queen's Apartment,
+where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three
+o'Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are
+very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private
+Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at
+the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a
+Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don't drink the same Sort, with
+Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the
+Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he
+pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always
+drink too much, because they sit too long at it.
+
+When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out
+again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or
+else on Foot to St. _James_'s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till
+the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate
+Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera's or
+Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative,
+sometimes at one Lord's House, and sometimes at another's, or else they
+repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies
+formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded
+by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after
+what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse
+himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who
+say that this City is too melancholy for 'em, only say so to give
+themselves an Air.
+
+At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy
+as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each
+Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason
+that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance
+of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love
+with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and
+in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together
+make very good Fare. There's one Custom established in these Houses, which
+to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man's
+Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a
+Kiss, which tho' but a very modest one, 'tis a Pleasure to see a Colour
+come into the Lady's Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second
+Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has
+been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House:
+And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House
+at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four
+times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would
+serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_
+keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay
+their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of
+their Class in the World.
+
+The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there's the best of
+Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the
+Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and
+dirty.
+
+The Assemblies here are so throng'd, that there's hardly any stirring.
+Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables.
+Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm
+of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass
+mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another's Health; but 'tis
+in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.
+
+The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at
+the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw
+a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand
+in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated
+with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable,
+besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous
+Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely
+illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there's Play.
+The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform'd by the ablest Musicians
+in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these
+Balls the Company are often mask'd, and then the King and the Prince of
+_Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses
+are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well
+dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for
+there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The
+_English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a
+time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives
+Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are
+so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the
+_French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_.
+
+As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of 'em than any
+other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most
+magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea
+for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though 'tis always crouded,
+yet it won't defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the
+Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant;
+but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is
+_Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents
+in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one
+_Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression,
+but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think
+his Music not so affecting as 'tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine,
+and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_.
+The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form
+Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good
+Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax
+candles. There's Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque
+Interlude.
+
+Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there's an _English_ one, where they sing
+only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than
+when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or
+beating himself.
+
+The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has
+been severely criticiz'd by the _French_, who say, 'tis not comparable to
+theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very
+gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my
+Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the
+_French_ are too much cramp'd by their Rules, and the _English_ not
+enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste,
+the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho' the _English_ are not
+such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of
+Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much
+prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own
+Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces,
+where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of
+_Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has
+had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed
+by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom
+of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was
+a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.
+
+The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in
+which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner
+very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare
+with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and
+their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not
+the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all
+the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_
+does with Falcons.
+
+The Swiftness of the _English_ Horses is the Reason that there are
+Horse-Races every Year at a Place called _Newmarket_; and this really is
+what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several
+Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in _Italy_.
+They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend
+which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of
+them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without
+a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with
+'em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds
+Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of
+_Plutus_, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to
+be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him.
+Such is the Custom of the _English_, who not only pay those handsomely who
+contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be
+seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such
+Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that
+play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have
+also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer
+has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then
+taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a
+Favourite of the Town, as Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for
+whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than
+they shall make use of, for the Party's Encouragement. This Generosity of
+the _English_ towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a
+particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing
+too fine, nor too dear. Thus, 'tis not to Assiduity that they are willing
+to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and
+their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abb�s of _Rome_,
+of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress.
+
+These Abb�s put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called _Chaplains_,
+whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the
+Reformation of the Church of _England_, their Revenues were not very much
+impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know
+not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the
+same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine,
+that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the _English_ are subject
+to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the
+Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. 'Tis said that
+they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform
+Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead
+of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that
+extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which
+commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you
+of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the
+_English_ Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals,
+Prize-fighters, Wrestlers, and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that
+contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and
+Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the _English_ are descended
+from _Mutius Sc�vola_, because, like that _Roman_, they despise Pain.
+Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with
+Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. _James_'s
+Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many
+Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped
+himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this
+State of Nature he travers'd along the Mall, thro' an infinite Concourse
+of People. The Ladies, astonish'd at such a Sight, knew not how to keep
+their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces
+with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him
+pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths,
+near _Whitehall_, where he left 'em; and as he had won the Wager,
+abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him
+Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur'd and happy as the
+_English_.
+
+Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the
+Parties they make for the Country. This the _English_ set a great Value
+upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very
+beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always
+a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the
+Country the _English_ live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at
+_London_ they live for most part like mere private Men.
+
+Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of _London_,
+particularly along the _Thames_. I cannot conceive how a Native of
+_England_, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to
+leave these Regions, as a great many _English_ nevertheless do, who prefer
+Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I
+confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in _England_, I
+would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the
+Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so
+troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, 'tis for this Cause
+that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape
+does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is
+supplied by the Grapes of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are imported here
+in Abundance.
+
+One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the
+happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and
+well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain
+Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination
+which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who
+makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv'd by him as his Equal, without being
+made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the
+Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here;
+for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of
+Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them.
+
+The Great Men here, as well as in _France_, don't scruple to marry Women
+of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made
+between the _English_ Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The
+_English_ are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom,
+and we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage,
+when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of
+their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant's Daughter, she
+sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish'd Family; whereas
+in _France_, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian.
+
+These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I
+wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I
+may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean
+time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly
+persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                         An Alphabetical INDEX
+
+                                 TO THE
+
+                             SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+          A
+
+  _Abb�s_, _Italian_, 69, 70.
+    Five or six club for one Mistress, 469.
+
+  _Abbesses_ that preach'd, bless'd and confess'd, 195.
+
+  _Academy, French._
+    Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour,
+        266, 267.
+
+  _Acquaviva_, Cardinal, 4, 44, 55.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Pr. of, 136.
+
+  _Acunha, Lewis de_, 406.
+
+  _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, 49.
+
+  _Agnus Dei_'s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and
+      Consecration, 99, _&c._
+
+  _Agrippa_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, 332.
+
+  _Aignan_, (_St._) Duke _de_, 85, 123.
+
+  AIX LA CHAPELLE, _t._ 327.
+    Reliques exposed there, 329.
+
+  _Aix_ Parliament.
+    The _Jansenists_ with the Members hang'd, 194.
+    An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than _Pilate_, _ibid._
+
+  _Alacoque Maria_, made a Saint by a Bishop, 202.
+
+  _Alais_, Count de, 217.
+
+  _Albano_ Cardinal, 15, 16, 37, 78, 88.
+
+  ---- Painter, 359.
+
+  _Albemarle_, Earl and Countess, 407, 408.
+
+  _Alberoni_'s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of
+      Churches, 75.
+    _Clement_ XIth's Design to deprive him of the Hat, 88.
+
+  _Albert_, Archduke of _Austria_, 313.
+
+  _Albert the Great_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, 327.
+
+  _Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Albin, St._ Abb� of, 291.
+
+  _Alcmaer_, t. 392.
+
+  _Alegre_, Marshal, 339.
+
+  _Alexander Farnese_, 39.
+
+  _Alexander_ VI. Pope, 97.
+
+  ALEXANDRIA _de la Paille_, t. 151.
+
+  _Aliberti_, Count, his Theatre, 65.
+
+  _Alincourt_, Marquis _de_, 174, 175.
+    Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of _Lyons_, 175, 176.
+
+  _Almanza_ Victory, to what ascrib'd, 259.
+
+  _Alstein_, a _German_ Minister, 382.
+
+  _Altelli_, General of the _Corsicans_, 150.
+
+  _Alva_, Duke of, 317.
+
+  _Ambiorix_, King, 321.
+
+  _Ambrun_, Council of, 240.
+
+  _Amelia_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Amende honorable_, Punishment, what, 433.
+
+  _Amerongen_, Brigadier _de_.
+    The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life,
+        320.
+
+  AMSTERDAM, _t._ 317, 371.
+
+  _Anabaptist_, _Dutch_, his Zeal for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  ANDERNACH, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Angelo, Michael_, 33, 37.
+
+  _St. Angelo_, Castle, 31.
+
+  _Angervilliers_, M. _de_, 238, 239.
+
+  _Anne_ of _Austria_, 198.
+
+  ---- of _Bavaria_, the Palatine, 218.
+
+  ---- Queen of _England_, Reflection on her Statue at St. _Paul_'s, 433.
+
+  ---- Princess Royal of _England_, 448.
+
+  _Anna Maria Frances_ of _Saxe-Lawenburg_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Antin_, Duke of, 188, 199.
+    His Son, 226.
+
+  _Antonine_ Pillar, 3.
+
+  _Antoninus Caracalla_, Emperor, 38.
+
+  _Antoninus_ and _Faustina_'s Temple at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  ANTWERP, _t._ 317.
+
+  _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, 338.
+
+  _Archduchess_, Governess of the _Netherlands_, 299, to 302, 304.
+
+  _Ardicinio_, Cardinal, 87.
+
+  _Aremberg_, Duke _de_, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces
+      in the _Austrian Netherlands_) 297, 298, 299, 306.
+
+  _Argenson_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, 210, 236, 245, 385.
+
+  _Armagnac_, M. _de_, 251.
+
+  _Armand_ his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Armenonville_, M. _de_, 236.
+
+  _Arno_, R. 141.
+
+  _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister, 132.
+
+  _Asfeldt_, Baron _de_, 339.
+
+  _Asperen_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Assassins_, Sanctuary at _Rome_, 75, 76.
+
+  _Assemblies_, at _Rome_, 69, 70, 71.
+
+  _Astalli_, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of
+      his Hat, 93 to 95.
+
+  ASTI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Astrologer_, _Turkish_, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father,
+      Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, 140.
+
+  _Athlone_, Earl of, 366.
+
+  _Aubigny_, _Theodore de_, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author,
+      264.
+
+  ---- _Frances de_, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness _de
+      Maintenon_, 262 to 265.
+      Her Family, 264.
+
+  _Audenarde_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Audiences_, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, 55, _&c._
+
+  _August_, Snow in that Month, 13.
+
+  _Augustus_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  ---- King of _Poland_. The Countess of _Wartemberg_'s Attack upon him,
+      410.
+
+  _Auricular Confession_, why abolish'd throughout the _East_, 195.
+
+  _Author_, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, 286,
+      _&c._
+    ---- At what Age he could like to be a _Frenchman_, and at what an
+        _Englishman_, 455.
+    ---- His Father's Death, 321.
+
+  _Auverquerque, Maurice_, Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  AUXERRE, _t._ 183.
+
+  _Ayrolles_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+
+          B
+
+  _Bacharach_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Baden_, Princess, marry'd to the Duke of _Orleans_, 206.
+    Treaty there, 255.
+    How Prince _Lewis_ was surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  _Bagnolet_ Village, 206.
+
+  _Baker_ castrated by his jealous Wife, 183.
+
+  _Balbi, James_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, 146.
+
+  _Balls_ at the _Haymarket_, magnificent, 465.
+
+  _Banchieri_, Cardinal, 16, 18, 44, 54, 112.
+
+  _Bank Bills_, French, 245 to 248.
+
+  ---- Of _Amsterdam_, 380.
+
+  _Barberini_ Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, 7.
+
+  ---- Cardinal, 15, 78, 96.
+
+  ---- Palace, 40, 64.
+
+  _Barcelona_ reduc'd, 257.
+
+  _Bareith_, Prince of, 404.
+
+  _Baron_, a _French_ Comedian and Coxcomb, 200.
+
+  _Barre, John_, his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Barricades_ of _Paris_ erected, 283.
+
+  _Bavaria_, Elector of, 214, 303.
+
+  _Beaufort_, Count _de_, 323.
+
+  _Beaujolois_, Mademoiselle _de_, 208.
+
+  _Becker_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 363.
+
+  _Belisarius_'s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Belle-Isle_, Count _de_, 210, 217, 227.
+
+  _Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 26. His Credulity abus'd by the Cardinals,
+      particularly _Coscia_; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to
+      30.
+    A Reflection on his Ministers, 114.
+
+  _Benefices_, Instances of Pluralities, 337, 342.
+
+  _Benefit-Nights_ at the Theatre, 468.
+
+  BENSBERG, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, 4, 13, 14, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about _Parma_, 120.
+    Death and Successor, 130.
+
+  ---- Marquis, 14.
+
+  _Berg_, Country, 361.
+
+  _Bernini Lorenzo_, Architect, 6, 8.
+
+  ---- The Sculptor, 9, 34, 48, 101.
+
+  _Berry_, Duke of, 206.
+
+  _Berwic, James_, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to
+      259.
+    His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of _France_,
+        258, 259.
+    His Death and Successor, 259.
+    His great Aversion to the _English_, and Ingratitude to the King of
+        _Spain_, 258, 259.
+
+  _Beverwert_, M. _de_, 401.
+
+  _Bichi_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  BINGEN, _t._ 352.
+
+  _Binger-Loch_, a Cascade upon the _Rhine_, 351.
+
+  _Bissi_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _Blanc_, M. _le_, Secretary, 210, 227, 238.
+
+  _Blaspiel_, Baron and Baroness _de_, 363, 364.
+
+  _Bleickert_ Wine, 348.
+
+  _Blood Divine_, suck'd by the Pope, 21.
+
+  _Bodies Human_, a Thought concerning them, 272.
+
+  _Boerhaave_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Boetselaars_, 412.
+
+  _Bois_, Cardinal _de_, 230, 291, 292.
+    Story of his Marriage, 293.
+    His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, 294, 295.
+    His Tomb, and Remark upon it, 295.
+
+  BOLOGNA, _t._ 129, _&c._
+
+  _Bolognetti_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  ---- Countess, 69.
+
+  _Boniface_ VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, 86.
+
+  BONN, _t._ 337.
+
+  _Bonnet_, (_St._) an Officer, 338.
+
+  _Bookselling Trade_, the Centre of it, 386.
+
+  _Bookbinder_ and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to 273.
+
+  _Bork_, M. _de_, 363.
+
+  _Borghese_, Prince, his Palace, 46, 48, 49.
+    His Family the Favourites of St. _Peter_, 47.
+
+  _Borghese, Scipio_, Cardinal, 47, 48, 49.
+
+  _Borgia_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _---- Casar_, Duke _de Valentinois_, his Contrivance to poison a
+      Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, 97, 98.
+
+  _Borgo_, Marquis _del_, 157, 161.
+
+  _Bossu_, Cardinal _de_, 318.
+
+  _Bot_, General, 362.
+
+  _Boufflers_, Marshal, 253, 315.
+
+  _Bougir_'s House at _Aix la Chapelle_, 331.
+
+  _Bourbon_, Duke of, 182, 186, 207, 290, 291.
+    How he lost an Eye, 208.
+    Made Superintendant of the King's Education, and Prime Minister, 209,
+        210, 221.
+    Displac'd, 211, 226, 230.
+    His Marriage, 212.
+
+  ---- Duchess of, 216, 217.
+
+  _Brandenburg Anspach_, Margrave, 446.
+
+  _Breteuil_, M. 210, 238, 293.
+
+  _Brignole_, Messieurs, of _Genoa_, 147.
+
+  BRILLE, _t._ 427.
+
+  _Brioche, Swiss_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Brosse_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Brouffel_ arrested by _Anne_ of _Austria_, 283.
+
+  BRUGES, _t._ 312.
+
+  _Bruhl_, Seat of the Elector of _Cologne_, 340.
+
+  _Brunette_, Fort _de la_, 169.
+
+  _Brunswic_, Duchess of, 218.
+
+  _---- Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric_, Duke, 361.
+
+  BRUSSELS, _t._ 298.
+    Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, 308, 317.
+
+  _Brutus_'s Tragedy by _Voltaire_, 265, 266, 467.
+
+  _Bucentaur_ of _Venice_, the Oath taken by her Captain, 315.
+
+  _Buckingham_ House, 437.
+
+  ---- Duchess Dowager, _ib._
+
+  _Bullen, Anne_, Queen, 438.
+
+  _Buonarota, Mich. Angelo_, 6, 24.
+
+  _Buoncompagno_, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy
+      Sepulchre, 29.
+    His Funeral, 107.
+
+  _Burgomasters, Dutch_, 376.
+
+  _Burgundians_, their Character, 182.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Wine, counterfeited, 348.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Duke, his Honour vindicated, 154.
+    How much he is still venerated in _France_, 204.
+
+  _Bussy, Rabutin_'s Letters, 182, 443.
+
+
+          C
+
+  _Cadiere_, Mademoiselle _la_, her Affair with _Girard_ her Father
+      Confessor, 193.
+    Her Recantation of the Charge against him, 194.
+
+  _Cadogan_, Earl and Countess, 409.
+
+  _Calf_, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, 390.
+
+  CAMBRAY, _t._ 291.
+    Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Campagna di Roma_, infested by Locusts, 41.
+
+  _Campo Vaccino_, Square, at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Canals_, _Canards_, and _Canaille_ 428.
+
+  _Canons_, where they have the Title of Counts, 180.
+
+  _Capitol_, of _Rome_, 33.
+
+  _Caponi_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Carache, Annibal_, Painter, 39, 359.
+
+  _Caraffa, John Peter_, Cardinal, 126.
+
+  _Cardinals in Petto_, what, 82.
+    The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, 83.
+    Their Manner of going Abroad, 83, 84.
+    Their Dress, and a Vindication of 'em from Luxury, 84.
+    The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown'd Heads, 85.
+    Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, 86.
+    Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, _ib._
+    How they came to the Title of Eminency, _ib._
+    Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign'd it, 87.
+    Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, 90, 93.
+    Why they always take their own Liquor with them, 97.
+
+  _Carignan_, Prince of, 201.
+
+  _Carlos_, Don, his Journey to _Tuscany_, 139, 233, 318.
+    A Prophecy of _Nostradamus_ apply'd to him, 139.
+
+  _Carnival_, at _Rome_, 64.
+
+  _Caroline_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Carolis_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  _Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee in _Holland_, 429.
+
+  _Carpinetti_, Duke, 42.
+
+  _Casimir, John_ of _Poland_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    King, 336.
+
+  _Cassius, Florus_, 340.
+
+  _Castor_ and _Pollux_, represented by two great Horses, 33.
+
+  _Catharine_, Queen, Wife to _Hen._ VIII. 438.
+    Wife to _Char._ II. threatened by a Lady never to be visited again,
+        till she could be seen for 6 _d._ 444.
+
+  _Catinat_, Marshal de, 252.
+
+  _Cellamare_, Prince of, 180, 222.
+
+  _Cenis_, Mountain, 168, 169, 170.
+
+  _Cevennois_ Rebellion suppressed, how, 253.
+
+  CHALONS, upon the _Saone_, t. 180.
+
+  _Chamber_ of Justice in _France_, 249.
+
+  CHAMBERRY, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Chantilly_, Seat, 290.
+
+  _Chaplains, English_, 469.
+
+  _Charlemagne_, Emperor, 325, 330.
+
+  _Charles Emanuel_ II. of _Savoy_, his finishing a Road on the _Alpes_,
+      which the _Romans_ began, 171.
+
+  _Charles_ V. Emperor, 311, 400.
+    His Declaration about the _Dutch_, 428.
+
+  ---- VI. Emperor. 328.
+    His Addresses to the Princess (the late Queen of _Great Britain_)
+        446.
+
+  _Charles_ I. King of _England_, the Window from which he walk'd to the
+      Scaffold, 435.
+    His Statue. 438.
+
+  ---- II. King of _England_, his Statue, 434.
+    His Menace of the City of _London_, 431.
+    His Design to improve St. _James_'s Park, 436.
+
+  ---- King of _Sardinia_, his dutiful Conduct towards his Father, at and
+      after his Abdication, 155.
+    His Queen, 165.
+
+  _Charni_, Marquis _de_, General, 137.
+
+  _Charolois_, Count _de_, 212 to 217.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  _Charost_, Duke _de_, 226, 227.
+
+  _Chartres_, Duke _de_, 206, 209, 268.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 207.
+
+  _Ch�telain_, M. _de_, 383.
+
+  _Chauvelin_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, (just remov'd) 236.
+
+  _Chelles_, Abbess of, 207.
+
+  _Chesterfield_, Earl of, 403.
+
+  _Children_, 365
+    born at once, 425.
+
+  _Chimay_, Prince _de_, 318.
+
+  _Chocolate-house_, in St. _James_'s _street_, 463.
+
+  CHOISY, _t._ 188, 189.
+
+  _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, 11, 25.
+    A cruel Action of hers, 184.
+
+  _Church_, built by a Lottery, 201.
+
+  _Churchill, Arabella_, 257.
+
+  _Cibo_, Cardinal, 143.
+    _Alaric_, ibid.
+
+  _Cicero_'s, in _Italy_, what, 261.
+
+  _Cicisbei_, the Name of those who gallant the _Genoese_ Ladies, 148.
+
+  _Cienfuegos_, Cardinal, 15, 16, 17, 45, 78, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor in the Affair of _Parma_, 120.
+    The Theft he committed in _Westminster_ Abbey, 440.
+
+  _Claude_, of _Lorain_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Clement Augustus_, Elector of _Cologne_, 332, 336, 342.
+    His Revenue, 337.
+    His Brothers, 341.
+    His Aggrandisement asserted to be for the Interest of Popery, 342,
+        343.
+
+  _Clement_ XI. (Pope) his Design against Cardinal _Alberoni_, 88.
+
+  ---- XII. Pope, 6.
+    His Election, 13.
+    Adoration of the Cardinals to him, 17, 18.
+    His Coronation, 19.
+    Our Author's Audience, 55.
+    His Promotion of Cardinals, 77, 78, 115.
+    His great Age and Ailments, 88.
+    His Severity, 91, 167.
+    General Character, 114.
+    Concern for losing the Duchy of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  ---- _James_, the Assassin, 269.
+
+  _Clermont_, Count _de_, 212, 216.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  CLEVES, _t._ 363.
+
+  _Cloud_, _St._ Duke of, 192.
+    Palace of, 268.
+
+  _Clovis_, King of _France_, 269.
+
+  COBLENTZ, _t._ 349.
+
+  _Coffee-Houses_, much frequented by the _English_, 463.
+
+  _Cologne_, Elector of, 213.
+    City, 332, 336.
+
+  _Colonna_, Cardinal, 15, 42.
+
+  ---- Signior, a Prelate, 122.
+
+  ---- Constable, and Family, 42, 82.
+
+  _Comedies_, _French_ and _Dutch_, 385.
+
+  _Comptroller_ General's Office in _France_, compar'd to the Post of the
+      _Grand Vizier_, 239.
+
+  _Conclave_, for the Choice of a Pope, 13, 70.
+
+  _Concord_, Temple of, at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  _Conde_, Family, 182, 208.
+    _Hon. Julius_ of _Bourbon_, Prin. 218, _Louisa Benedictina_, Princ.
+        220.
+
+  _Consistories_ of _Rome_, 81.
+
+  _Constantine_, Arch. at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Conti_, Cardinal, 91.
+
+  ---- Family of, 218.
+
+  ---- Princess Dowager of, 188, 217-220.
+
+  ---- _Lewis_ of _Bourbon_, Prince, his Marriage, 208, 217.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle, 209.
+
+  _Cornetto, Adrian_, Cardinal, a Design to poison him, 97.
+
+  _Cornicchini, Augustin_, the Statuary, 9.
+
+  _Coronation_ Chair, of the _English_ Sovereigns, 441.
+
+  _Corpus Christi_, Ceremonies on that Day at _Rome_, 124.
+    and at _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  _Correggio_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Corsica_, Island, more Cost than Worship to the _Genoese_, 150.
+
+  _Corsicans_, call'd the Devils of _Italy_, 143.
+    Their War with the _Genoese_, 149, _&c._
+
+  _Corsini_, Cardinal, 6.
+    His Election to be Pope, 13.
+    His Nephew, _Neri Corsini_, a Cardinal, 19, 78, 119.
+    _Bartholomew_, another, 52, 92.
+    _Philip_, his great Nephew, 44.
+    Character of his Nephews, 119.
+    Mesdames, the Popes Nieces, 69, 103, 104.
+    His Antipathy to Cardinal _Bichi_, 117.
+
+  _Cortona, Peter_, Painter, 40, 359.
+
+  _Coscia_, Cardinal, his Abuse of the Pope's Credulity, 27, 28.
+    His Bargain with _Ruspoli_'s Father, to get his Son a Cardinal's Hat,
+        77.
+    Another of his Bargains of that sort, 83.
+    His Treatment by the Popes, 89, 90, 91.
+    His Imprisonment, 91.
+
+  _Cosmo_, I. II. III. Great Dukes of _Tuscany_, 135.
+    Statue of the First, 140.
+
+  _Costa_, Auditor General of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Coster, Laurence_, of _Harlem_, 395.
+
+  _Courland_, Dukes Kettlers, 135, 136.
+
+  COURTRAY, _t._ 313.
+
+  _Craggs_, Secretary, his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Crescens_, St., Disciple of St. _Paul_, 353.
+
+  _Crumpiper, Henry_, 302.
+
+  _Culmbache, Brandenburgh_, Princess of, 307, 404.
+
+  _Cumberland_, (Prince _William_) D. of, 447.
+
+  _Cumiane_, Mademoiselle _de_, 156.
+
+  _Curtius_'s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Cyr, St._ Abbey of, 261.
+
+
+          D
+
+  _Daguesseau_, M. Chancellor, 235, 236.
+
+  _Dalberg_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Damasus_ II. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Dammartin_, Count _de_, 213.
+
+  _Dangeau_, M. _de_, 216.
+
+  _Daphne_'s Metamorphosis, 48.
+
+  _Davia_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _David_ with his Sling, a Statue, 48.
+
+  _Daun_, Marshal, 152, 304.
+
+  _Dauphin_, of _France_, whence that Title, 173.
+
+  _Dauphin�_, 172, 173.
+
+  DELFT, _t._ 400, 425.
+
+  _Denain_, Battle, 251, 404.
+
+  _Denys_, Saint, 192.
+
+  _Devenish_, M. _de_, 314.
+
+  _Devils_ of _Italy_, who, 143.
+
+  _Devos_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Dickson_, Colonel, 314.
+
+  DIJON, _t._ 181.
+
+  _Dirce_, her Fable, 38.
+
+  _Dobelstein_, Baron _de_, 331.
+
+  _Dohna_, _Alexander de_, Count, 349.
+
+  ---- _Ferassier de_, Count, 404.
+
+  _Dombes_, Prince of, 221, 224.
+
+  ---- Principality, 179, 180, 220.
+
+  _Doria_, Cardinal, 55, 91, 116.
+
+  ---- General, 147.
+
+  _Ducks_, in abundance, 418.
+
+  DUISBOURG, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Dulis_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Dunbar_, Lord, his Station at the Pretender's Court, 58.
+    His Marriage of Princess _Sobleski_ by Proxy, 62.
+
+  _Duncan_, M. _de_, 407.
+
+  _Dunchstein_, Mineral Water, 349.
+
+  DUSSELDORF, _t_ 358.
+
+  _Dutch_, vindicated from Treachery, 368, 428.
+    Their common Food, 372.
+    Their Coffee-houses, and Comedies, 385.
+    Assemblies, 386.
+    Dress, 390.
+    Lasses, 393.
+
+  _Dyck, Van_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          E
+
+  ECHELLES, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Edward_ I. King of _England_, the Trophy he brought from _Scotland_,
+      of his Conquest, 441.
+
+  _Egmont_, Count, the Prince of _Orange_'s Farewell of him, 453.
+
+  ---- Palace in _Brussels_, 299.
+
+  _Elbeue, de_, Commandeur, the _Tuscan_ Minister, 131, 134.
+
+  _Eleanor_, of _Toledo_, Gr. Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  ---- of _Provence_, Wife to K. _Hen._ III. 435.
+
+  _Eminency_, how that Title came to the Cardinals, 86.
+
+  _Emperors, German_, their Manner of giving Audience, 215.
+
+  ENCKHUISEN, _t._ 392.
+
+  _England_'s Kings, their Power and Court, 442, 443, 444.
+    Its Soil and Climate, 470, 471.
+
+  _Englishmen_, said to be better Abroad than at Home, 326.
+    Their Manners, 453, _&c._ 463.
+    The Dress of the Courtier and the Citizen, 436, 437, 460.
+    Genius of the Nation, 442, 462.
+    Vindicated from Disaffection to their Kings, 442.
+    Applauded for defending their Rights, 443.
+    Their friendly, tho' melancholy Tempers, and their Aversion to
+        Constraint, 454, 455.
+    Their Diversions, 467, 469, 470.
+    Their Manners compared with the French 455.
+    Vindicated from Cruelty, 457, 458.
+    Their too great Freedom with Life, 459.
+    Their Womens Beauty, 460, 461.
+    Their Behaviour in Public, 461.
+    Why the _English_ are supposed to be descended from _Mutius Scavola_,
+        470.
+    An Influence of their Good-nature and Happiness, _ibid._
+    Blam'd for preferring other Countries to their own, 471.
+    Their different Living in the Country from the City, 470.
+
+  _Epernon_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Epitaph_ upon Epitaphs, 414.
+
+  _Erasmus_'s Statue, 426.
+
+  _Essex_, Earl of, his Head expos'd, 432.
+
+  _Estrades_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 401.
+
+  _Estr�es_, Marshal _de_, _Victor Maria_, his Conduct, Character,
+      Dignities, Family, Estate, and his fine Diamonds, 260.
+
+  ---- _Gabriella de_, Mistress to _Henry_ IV. of _France_, 260.
+
+  _Eu_, Count _de_, 221, 225.
+
+  _Eugene_, of _Savoy_, Prince, 143, 259.
+
+  _St. Evremont_, M. his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Eysenach, Saxe_, Princess of, 446.
+
+
+          F
+
+  _Fagel, Gressier_, 406.
+
+  _Farnese, Francis_, Duke of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  _Farnese_, Palace, at _Rome_, 37.
+
+  _Faustina, Signora_, 66.
+
+  _Faustus, John_ of _Mentz_, 395.
+
+  _Fest_, Ceremony of washing them on _Holy Thursday_, 98.
+
+  _Feldtbruck_, Mademoiselle _de_, the severe Test she requir'd of her
+      Lover's Affection, 320.
+
+  _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_, 291, 403.
+
+  ---- Brigadier and Ambassador, 403.
+
+  _Ferdinand de Medicis_, Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Ferrayo_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  _Ferrero_, Cardinal, 167.
+
+  _Filippucci_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Fine Gentleman_, his Character, 462.
+
+  _Fiochi_, of the Cardinals, what it means, 83.
+
+  _Fireworks of Germany_, expensive, 187.
+
+  _Flax_, why burnt at the Pope's Coronation, 20.
+
+  _Flemings_, unsociable, 312.
+
+  _Flemish Woman_, good Topers, _ibid._
+
+  _Fleury_, Cardinal _de_, made Prime Minister, 211.
+    His Character, 228 to 235, 283.
+
+  FLORENCE, _t._ 130, _&c._
+
+  _Florentin_, Count _de St._ 237, 238.
+
+  _Flowers_, beautiful, where, 395.
+
+  FONTAINEBLEAU, Palace and Town, 184, 188.
+
+  _Fontana_, the Architect, 8, 9.
+
+  _Force_, Duke _de la_, 243.
+
+  _France_, whether 'twas her Interest to enter into the last War, 232 to
+      235.
+
+  _Francis_, I. King of _France_, 184.
+
+  _Francis de Medicis_, Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Frangipani_, Marquis, 52.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Bohemia_, 366.
+
+  ---- Elector of _Brandenburg_, 338, 362, 446.
+
+  ---- _Augustus_, King of _Poland_, 360, 361.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Prussia_, 361, 362, 367, 399.
+
+  _Frejus_, Bishop of, 228, 229, 230.
+
+  _French_, how they accounted for the Loss of so many Battles in the
+      last War, 153.
+    Not so modest as the Allies, 295.
+    Their Levity, 196, 197, 279.
+    Their good Qualities, 197, 275, 276.
+    Their Fashions, by whom to be followed, and by whom avoided, 460,
+        461.
+
+  _Fr�ne_, M. _du_, a famous French Comedian, 266.
+
+  FRIBOURG, _t._ 254.
+
+  _Fridlingen_ Battle, 252.
+
+  _Frouley_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 202.
+
+  _Fugger_, Countess _de_, 348.
+
+  _Furius Camillus_, the Dictator, his Vow, 35.
+
+  _Furstenberg_, Princess, 307.
+
+
+          G
+
+  _Galen, Bernard de_, Bishop, the Terror of the _Dutch_, 343.
+
+  _Galloway_, Lord, 440.
+
+  _Gamarre_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador's Dispute with M. _de Thon_, a
+      _French_ Ambassador, about Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Gamesters_, order'd to the Gallies, 30.
+
+  _Gaming_, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  ---- One of the Plagues of the _French_ Nation, 198.
+    What their Ladies call a Man who does not play, and what the Men say
+        of Gaming in general, 199, 200.
+    How Gamesters are caress'd at many Womens Houses, and the great
+        Emoluments of Gaming, 201.
+    Who have a Grant for licensing it, _ibid._
+
+  _Gardening_, in _Italy_, declin'd, 33, 47.
+
+  _Gasse_, Count _de_, 212.
+
+  _Gaston, John_. See _Tuscany_'s Great Duke.
+
+  _Gaydon_, Major, in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Gendre, Peter le_, 175.
+
+  GENOA, _t._ 144.
+    Its Neighbourhood, 151.
+    Its Bombardment by the _French_, 144.
+    Character of the _Genoese_, 148.
+    Their War with the _Corsicans_, 149.
+
+  _Gentili_, Cardinal, 116.
+
+  _Gentlemen_, whether that Title be more due to Stage-Players, than to
+      Rope-Dancers or Tumblers, 268.
+
+  _George_ I. King 436.
+    His Statue, 438.
+    Compar'd to _Augustus_, 442.
+
+  _George_ II. King, 434, 445.
+    His Queen, 445, 446, 447.
+    Their Manner of Dining in Public, 449.
+    Drawing-Room, 456.
+
+  _Gerard, Balthasar_, the Assassin, 425.
+
+  _Gergy_, Parson of _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  ---- His Brother, Bishop of _Soissons_, ibid.
+
+  ---- Another, Ambassador at _Venice_, ibid.
+
+  _Germain_, (_St._) Abbat and Friers, ibid.
+
+  _German_ Princes, wiser than the _Italian_, 128.
+
+  _Germany_, the Strength of the Protestants and Papists there, 343.
+
+  _Gevres_, Duke, 201.
+
+  GHENT, _t._ 310, 317.
+
+  _Giafferi_, Leader of the _Corsican_ Rebels, 150.
+
+  _Girard_, Father, his Affair with a Lady at Confession, 193, _&c._
+
+  _Giudici_, Cardinal, 37, 90.
+
+  _Gladiators_, Statue, 49.
+
+  _Golofskin_, Count _de_, 404.
+
+  _Golstein_, Countess _de_, 331.
+
+  _Gondrin_, Marquis _de_, 226.
+
+  _Gondulphus_, Bishop, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Gondy_, Francis _de_, Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+
+  _Gonzague_, Cardinals, their Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Goudenau_, Marshal _de_, 346.
+
+  _Grafton_, Duke, 449.
+
+  _Grammont_, Duke _de_, 199.
+
+  _Grana_, Marquis _de_, 297.
+
+  _Grantham_, Earl of, 449.
+
+  _s'Gravesande_, Professor, 397.
+
+  Great Duke of _Tuscany_, by whom the Title was invented, 135.
+
+  _Greenwich_ Hospital, 432.
+
+  _St. Gregory the Great_, Pope, 31.
+
+  _Gregory_ XIII. Pope, 32.
+
+  _Gregory_ XV. Pope, 192.
+
+  GRENOBLE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Greys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Grilli_ (Locusts) apply'd to a Family of that Name, 41.
+
+  _Grimani_, Cardinal Legate, 129, 130.
+
+  _Grosvenor_'s Square, 438.
+
+  _Guadagno_, Cardinal, 115.
+
+  _Guiccardi_, Count, 149.
+
+  _Guido_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          H
+
+  _Hackney_, the Ceremony of presenting it to the See of _Rome_ for
+      _Naples_, 42 to 46.
+
+  HAGUE, Village, 398, _&c._
+
+  HALLE, _t._ 298.
+
+  _Handel_, the Composer, 466.
+
+  _Handkerchief_ of our Saviour, a Relique to be seen in three Places,
+      154.
+
+  _Hanover Family_, the Temper with which they received the News of their
+      Accession to the _British_ Throne, 446.
+
+  _Hapsbourg_, Count, 328.
+
+  _Harlai_, President, his Repartee to the _French_ Comedians, 267.
+
+  HARLEM, _t._ 394.
+
+  _Harrach, Frederic_, Count _de_, 303.
+
+  _Harrington_, Lord, 453.
+
+  HARWICH, _t._ 430.
+
+  _Hass_, M. the _Saxon_, 66.
+
+  _Hats_, Cardinals, why red, 86.
+
+  _Hatto_, Bishop, pursued and gnawed by Rats, 352.
+
+  _Hawitz_, Grand Marshal, 149.
+
+  _Haxhausen_, General, 332.
+
+  _Hayes_, Mr. and Mrs. styl'd Lord and Lady _Inverness_, 58, 59.
+
+  _Hazard_, Play, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  _Heidelberg_ Library, 25.
+
+  HELVOETSLUYS, _t._ 417 to 429.
+
+  _Henneberg_, Countess of. See _Holland_.
+
+  _Henry_ III. King of _France_, his Assassination, 269.
+    Ill Omens observ'd at his Consecration, _ibid._
+
+  ---- King of _England_, his Wife, 435.
+
+  ---- VIIth's Chapel, 440.
+
+  _Henry_ of _Portugal_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _St. Henry_ of _Bavaria_, Emperor, 331.
+
+  _Herenhausen_ Water-Works, 269.
+
+  _Hermaphrodite_ Statue, 49.
+
+  _Herod_, whither banish'd, 173.
+
+  _Hesse Rhinfels_, Princess of, (late) Queen of _Sardinia_, 165, 212.
+
+  ---- _Eleonora_, Duchess of _Bourbon_, her Marriage, 212.
+
+  _Hesse Cassel_, Prince _Williams_, 320.
+    Landgrave, 351.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Landgrave, 361.
+
+  _Highwayman_'s remarkable Escape, 457.
+
+  _Hildebold_, Archbishop of _Cologn_, 327.
+
+  _Hochstet_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Hogendorp_, M. 413.
+
+  _Hohen-Zollern_, Count de, 344.
+
+  _Holland, Florence_ IV. Count of, 425.
+
+  _Holland_, Countess of, his Daughter, deliver'd of three hundred
+      sixty-five Children at a Birth, 425.
+
+  _Holy Ghost_, Picture of a Cardinal taking Aim at him with a Fusee, 17.
+
+  _Holy Week_, how observed at _Rome_, 96.
+
+  _Hompesch_, General, 399.
+
+  _Honslaerdyck_, Palace, 425.
+
+  _Hoornbeck_, Pensionary, 406.
+
+  HORNE, _t._ 392.
+
+  _Horses_, Dogs, and Falcons, where they abound most, 468.
+
+  _House_, in the Wood, 425.
+
+  _Howard_, Family of, 438.
+
+
+          I
+
+  _Jacob_'s Pillow, 440.
+
+  _Jagellon_, K. of _Poland_, 336.
+
+  _St. James_'s Palace and Park, 435, 436.
+    Square, 438.
+    Church, 439.
+
+  _James_ II. King, censur'd for neglecting a very precious Relique, 440.
+
+  _Jew, Dutch_, his Zeal for the Opera, in Opposition to an Anabaptist,
+      who was as hot for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  _Jews_, at _Amsterdam_, 388, 411.
+
+  _Imperiali_, Cardinal, 13, 14, 93.
+      _NB._ He dy'd in _January_ 1736-7.
+
+  _India_, Company, _Dutch_, 388.
+
+  _Infanta_ of _Spain_, sent back from _France_, 210, 211.
+
+  _Ingelheim_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Innocent_ IV. Pope, his Order about Cardinals Hats, 86.
+
+  _Innocent_ X. Pope, 90, 93.
+
+  _Inquisition_, at _Rome_, not so bad as represented, 125.
+    Congregation of the Holy Office, 126.
+
+  _Invalids_, Hospital, at _Paris_, 198.
+
+  _Inverness_, Lord and Lady, 58, 59.
+
+  _Joan_, of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Joannino_, the Duke of _Tuscany_'s _Favourite_, 132, 133.
+
+  _Johannesburg_ Wine, 352.
+
+  JOHN ST. DE MAURIENNE, _t._ 170.
+
+  _John-William_, Elector Palatine, 358, 359.
+
+  _John_ II. King of _France_, why compar'd to _Regulus_, 435.
+
+  _John_ III. King of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  _Joseph Clement_, Elector of _Cologne_, 345.
+
+  _Isis_, Goddess, and her Temple, 190.
+
+  _Italians_, their revengeful Temper, 14.
+    Jealousy and Niggardliness, 73, 74.
+    Their Disposition towards the _French_ and _Germans_, 16.
+    Their Behaviour at Executions, 110, 111, 112.
+    Their Hatred to one another, 127.
+    The Formality of settling the Interviews of their petty Princes, 128.
+    Why they are the Jest of Foreigners, _ibid._
+    Who the most polite, 139.
+
+  _Italians_, of the _Netherlands_, who, 324.
+
+  _Italy_, Devils of, who so called, 143.
+
+  _Judgement_, Day of, a remarkable Painting, 24.
+
+  JULIERS, _t._ 332, 361.
+
+
+          K
+
+  KEISERSWAERT, _t._ 347, 361.
+
+  _Keppel_, M. _de_, 407, 408.
+
+  _Kettlers_ Family, Dukes of _Courland_, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the _Medicis_ of _Tuscany_, 136.
+
+  _Keys_ of _St. Peter_, what they denote, 23.
+
+  _Kings_ of _Cologne_, 333.
+
+  _Kroon, Theodore_, Van der, 369.
+
+
+          L
+
+  _Lacqueys_, at _Paris_, the Favourites of their Ladies and young
+      Masters, 275.
+    A Conversation between those of two Cardinals, about their
+        Pre-eminence, 294.
+
+  _Lalaing_, Count _de_, 312.
+
+  _Lalock, Nassau_, Count _de_, 314, 315, 412, 413.
+
+  LANDAU, _t._ 254.
+
+  LANEBOURG, _t._ 170.
+
+  _Lansquenet_, The _French_ King's Party at that Game, 199.
+
+  _Lateran_ Church, the Ceremony of the Pope's taking Possession of it,
+      49.
+
+  _Lauzun_, M. _de_, 179.
+
+  _Law, John_, the Projector, 210, 239.
+    King of _Sardinia_'s Advice to him, 239.
+    His Death, and his Widow and Son, 240.
+    A Copy of Verses on him, 241.
+    His Coat of Arms, 243.
+    The Homage paid to him in his Prosperity, 244.
+    Description of his Person, and Remarks on his System, 245, _&c._ to
+        250, 380.
+
+  LEGHORN, _t._ the grand Appearance there on the Arrival of the
+      _Spanish_ Fleet, in which they expected Don _Carlos_, 139.
+    Description of the City, _&c._ 140, _&c._
+
+  _Leie_, Count _de la_, 350.
+
+  _Lenoirs_ Tapistry Manufacture, 308.
+
+  _Leo_ III. Pope, his Present to _Charlemain_, 99.
+
+  _Leopold_, Archduke, 342.
+
+  _Lepanto_, Victory, 43.
+
+  LERICI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Lewis d'Ors_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants, 218.
+
+  _Lewis_, the Pious, 327.
+
+  ---- Duke of _Burgundy_, 363.
+
+  _Lewis_ XIV. his Statue, _&c._ at _Lyons_, 178.
+    At _Dijon_, 181.
+    His Debt, 246.
+    His Offer to _Charles_ II. of Stones for Gravel, 437.
+
+  ---- XVth's Marriage, 185-211.
+    His Character, 203, 204.
+    His Queen and Children, 204, 205.
+
+  _Lewis_, Pr. of _Baden_, how surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  LEYDEN, _t._ 396.
+
+  ---- University, 397.
+
+  _St. Liberius_ I. Pope, 13.
+
+  _Lichtenstein_, Princess _de_, 303.
+
+  LIEGE, _t._ 321 to 324.
+
+  LIMBURG, _t._ 326.
+
+  LINTZ, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Lippe_, Count _de la_, 344.
+
+  _Liria_, Duke of, 257, 259.
+
+  LISLE, _t._ 296, 315, 316.
+
+  _Livery_, Servants at _Rome_, their poor Wages, 105.
+    The Practice of Jubileeing them, what, 106.
+    Some kept only for Sundays and Holidays, _ibid._
+
+  _Lobkowitz_, Princess, 307.
+
+  _Locusts_, in _Italy_, curs'd by the Pope and banish'd to the Sea, 41.
+
+  LONDON, _t._ 430.
+    to the End. King _Charles_ IId's Menace against this City ridicul'd
+        by one of the Aldermen, 431.
+    Its Increase since the Accession of the Present Royal Family to the
+        Crown, 439.
+
+  ---- Prov'd to be more populous than _Paris_, 190, 191.
+    It's Bridge, 432.
+    Cathedral, _ibid._
+    Monument, Burse, and Tower, 434.
+    Streets not well pav'd, 437, 438.
+    Its Diversions, 462, _&c._
+    Assemblies, 465.
+    Dances and Plays, 464 to 467.
+
+
+          M
+
+  MACON, _t._ 180.
+
+  MAESTRICHT, _t._ 319, 329
+
+  _Mailly_, Cardinal, 229.
+
+  _Maine_, Duke of, 179, 180, 181, 220, _&c._
+    Duchess, her Imprisonment, 180, 222, 223.
+    His Degradation, 209, 222.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle _de_, 225.
+
+  _Maintenon_, Madame _de_, 261.
+    _Lewis_ XIVth's Reprimand of her for leaving him in his last
+        Sickness, 262.
+    Her Retirement, Death, Tomb and Epitaph, 162, 263, _&c._
+    Her Family and Pension to the last, 264.
+
+  ---- Who is the present Marquis, _ibid._
+
+  _Malines_, Lady of, 314.
+
+  _Malplaquet_, Battle, 253.
+
+  _Malta_, Grand Master's Title, 86.
+    His Ambassador's Reception by the Pope, 121.
+
+  _Malusius_, 340.
+
+  _Maratti, Charles_, a Designer, 32.
+
+  _Marble_, rich Quarries of it, 143.
+
+  _Mark William, de Lumay_, Count _de la_, 427.
+
+  _Marcus Aurelius Antonius_, his Equestrian Statue, for which the
+      _Venetians_ offer'd as many Sequins as could be put into the
+      Horse's Belly, 33.
+
+  _Marez_, a noted old Actress of _Lyons_, 177, 178.
+
+  _Margaretta Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Mari_, (_Spanish_) Admiral, 137, 148.
+
+  MARIENBOURG, _t._ 336.
+
+  MARIENSTEAL, _t._ _ibid._
+
+  _Marlborough_'s Duke, and Palace, 437.
+
+  MARPURG, t. 336.
+
+  _Marquis de L----_, his Fortune made by an old Lady, 285.
+
+  _Marr_, Lady, her meeting Princess _Sobleski_, 63.
+
+  _Mary Magdalen_ of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _St. Mary Majors_ Church at _Rome_, 12.
+
+  _Mary de la Rovero_, Duchess of _Urbino_, 135.
+
+  _Mary de Medicis_, Regent of _France_, 145.
+
+  _Masch_, M. _de_, 404
+
+  MASSA DI CARRARA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Maternus_, Bishop, 323.
+
+  _Mathurias_, Order of, 184.
+
+  _Matilda_, Countess, 11.
+
+  _Maurepas_, Count _de_, 237.
+
+  _Maurice_, Prince, 314, 399.
+
+  _Maurice_, M. _de St._ Prime Minister, 213.
+
+  _Maurice_, Cardinal of _Savoy_, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Maximilian_ II. Emperor, his Answer to _Cosmo_ of _Tuscany_, when he
+      wanted the Title of King, 135.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Cardinal, 335.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Duchess _de_, 238, 409, 410.
+
+  MECHLIN, _t._ 317, 318.
+
+  _Medicis_, Family of, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the Family _Kettlers_, of _Courland_, 136.
+
+  _Medicis_, _Ferdinand de_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  ---- _Bernard de_, 136.
+
+  ---- _Juvence de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Octaviano de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Mary de_, Queen, 334.
+
+  ---- _Mary-Anne_, Electress _Palatine_, 359, 361.
+
+  MELUN, _t._ 240.
+
+  MENIN, _t._ 314.
+
+  _Mentz, Francis Lewis_, Elector of, 336, 342, 353.
+
+  ---- _Philip Charles_, Elector, 353.
+
+  MENTZ, _t._ ibid.
+
+  ---- _Francis, Lotharius_, Elector, _ibid._
+
+  _Merchants_, Difference betwixt the _English_ and Foreigners, 471.
+
+  _Mercy_, Count _de_, 255.
+
+  _Metternich_, Count _de_, 350.
+
+  _Michael Angelo_, 33, 37.
+
+  _Mignard_, the Painter, 269.
+
+  _Milan_, conquer'd, 256.
+
+  _Milciades_, an _Italian_ Game at Cards, 70.
+
+  _Mirandola, Picus de_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Misset_, M. 61, 62.
+
+  _Missisippi_ Scheme, and its Projector, Verses thereupon, 241, _&c._
+    Its Fate compar'd to that of the _South-Sea_ Scheme, 244.
+    A curious Account of it, 246 to 250.
+
+  _Misson_, Mr. his Account of the Pope's Coronation reflected on, 22.
+    His being always furnish'd with Mathematical Instruments, 141.
+
+  _Mistresses_, Generosity of the _English_ to theirs, 469.
+
+  ---- Kept in Partnership, _ib._
+
+  _Modena_, Princes of, 148.
+
+  _Molland_, Palace, 363.
+
+  _Mondragone_ Seat, near _Rome_, 48.
+
+  _Money_, the Scarcity of it in _France_, 217.
+    Worship paid to it at _Amsterdam_, 381, 382.
+
+  MONS, _t._ 297.
+
+  _Montague_ House, 439.
+
+  _Montcallier_ Castle, 152.
+
+  _Monte Cavallo_ Palace, 32.
+
+  _Montespan_, Marchioness, 188, 205, 216, 226, 264.
+
+  _Montesquiou_, Marshal, 260.
+
+  _Monti_, Marquis, the Pretender's Landlord. 58.
+
+  _Montijo_, Count _de_, 439.
+
+  _Montpensier_, Mademoiselle _de_, her Fame in the Civil Wars of
+      _France_, 179.
+    Her Restraint from marrying, _ibid._
+
+  _Montrevel_, Marshal _de_, 253.
+
+  _Monulphus_, Bishop of _Tongres_, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Morville_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Mouchi_, Madame _de_, 316.
+
+  _Mouths_ of the Cardinals, the Ceremony of Opening and Shutting them by
+      the Pope, 80.
+
+  _Muley Ismael_ of _Morocco_, his pretended Demand of the Princess of
+      _Conti_ in Marriage, 219.
+
+  MULHEIM, _t._ 335.
+
+  _Murder_, how punish'd at _Rome_, 74.
+
+  _Mutius Scavola_, a Conceit that the _English_ are descended from him,
+      470.
+
+
+          N
+
+  NAMUR, _t._ 317, 319.
+
+  _Naples_, the Tribute paid for it to the See of _Rome_, 43 to 46.
+
+  _Nassau_, Princes of, 309.
+
+  ---- _Zeist_, Count _de_, 367.
+
+  ---- _Orange_, Prince of, 412.
+
+  _Navona_, Square, 5.
+    The Ceremony of watering it, 66.
+
+  _Neautre_, M. _le_, 436.
+
+  _Nectarius_, Patriarch, 195.
+
+  _Nephews_ of the Popes, their general Character, 40.
+
+  _Nesle_, Marquis _de_, 309.
+
+  _Netherlands, Austrian_, Pride and Poverty of the Nobility and Gentry,
+      305, 306.
+
+  _Newbourgh, Lewis-Antony de_, 336.
+
+  ---- _Francis_, Elector of _Mentz_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Neuhoff Theodore_, Baron _de_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Neville Camillus, Nicolas_ and _Charles_, _de la_, 175.
+
+  NEUWIDT, _t._ and Count _de_, 349.
+
+  _Newcastle_, Duke of, 453.
+
+  _Newmarket_ Races, 468.
+
+  NEWPORT, _t._ 313.
+
+  NIMEGUEN, _t._ 365, 370.
+
+  _Noailles, Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal, 192, 294.
+
+  ---- Duke _de_, 207, 264.
+
+  _Noailles, Maria Victoria de_, 226.
+
+  ---- Duchess _d'Estr�es_, 260.
+
+  _Nocera_, a Canon, 92.
+
+  _Nordkirchen_, Seat, 346.
+
+  _Norfolk_, Duke of, 438.
+
+  _Nostradamus_, a Prophecy of his apply'd to _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Nothast_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  NOVALAISE, _la_, _t._ 169.
+
+  _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, prohibited by the Archbishops of _Paris_,
+      277.
+    Differences about it, betwixt the Court and Parliament, 277, 278.
+
+  _Nuncios_, of the Pope, 77.
+
+
+          O
+
+  _Obdam_, Count _de_, 412.
+
+  _Odyck_, M. _de_, 367.
+
+  _Oels_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Olivieri_, Cardinal, 44, 54.
+
+  _Openord, Giles Maria_, Architect, 201.
+
+  _Operas_, in _France_, the Distinction paid to the Actors, 267.
+
+  _Orange_, Palace in _Brussels_, 299, 300. at the Hague, 425.
+
+  ---- Princes of, 309, 401, 401, 412, 413, 425.
+
+  _Orbano_, R. 171.
+
+  _Orleans_, Dukes of, 173, 174, 179, 206, 207, 209, 212, 221, 229, 230,
+      236, 268, 269, 283, 292, 293, 295.
+
+  ---- Duchess, 185.
+    Dowager, 205, 206.
+    _Henrietta_, Duchess of, her Death, 269.
+    His Sisters, 207, 208.
+    _Philippa_, her Death, 208.
+    _Louisa Diana_, her Marriage and Issue, 208, 217.
+
+  ORLEANS, _t._ taken, 179.
+
+
+          P
+
+  _Pagan_ Impertinences, reviv'd in the Christian Religion, 203.
+
+  _Pain_, despis'd by our Nation, 470.
+
+  _Palatine_, Electress Dowager, 130.
+    _John-William_, Elector, 358, 359, 360.
+
+  _Pallas_, a _French_ Officer, who married both Mother and Daughter,
+      acquitted by the Inquisition, 116.
+
+  _Palmquist_, Ambassador, 405.
+
+  _Pamphili_, Princes, 6, 41, 42.
+     Palace, 41.
+
+  ---- _Camillus_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Pantheon_, at _Rome_, 7.
+
+  _Paris_, Abb�, his pretended Miracles, 195, _&c._ 284.
+
+  _Paris_, Brothers, 210, 227, 245.
+
+  PARIS, _t._ 189, _&c._
+    Whether most populous, this City, or _London_, 190, 191.
+    Number of its People, Streets, Houses, 192.
+    Expence of its Lanthorns, and its Revenues, _ibid._
+    Archbishop's Title, _ibid._
+    By whom founded, and most beautify'd, 190, 192.
+    Its Prerogatives, 192.
+    Governor, 201.
+    Lacqueys, 274, 275.
+    Parliaments, 283.
+    What _Charles_ V. meant when he said, He could put this City into his
+        Glove, 310.
+    Parliament House, 441, 442.
+
+  _Parma_, Dukes of, the Office they are to perform for the Pope, 52.
+    The Pope's Concern for the Loss of the Duchy, 114, 120.
+
+  _Patricians_, of _Germany_, 333, 334.
+
+  _Paul_ III. Pope, 38, 40.
+    His Order about the Cardinals Caps, 86.
+    His Establishment of the Inquisition, 126.
+
+  ---- IV. Pope, the Solicitor of it, _ibid._
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 32, 47, 48.
+
+  _Peasants, English_, their Happiness, 471.
+
+  _Pericon_, M. Magistrate at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _Perauss_, Count _de la_, 161, 162, 163.
+
+  _Peter, St. d'Arena_ Suburbs of _Genoa_, 148.
+
+  _Peter, St._ why describ'd as holding three Keys, 23.
+    His Church and Chair, at _Rome_, 7 to 12.
+    Who buried in it, 11.
+    His Miracles, what, 39.
+
+  PETITBOURG, _t._ 188.
+
+  _Petits Colets_, the Petits Maitres of _Rome_, 70, 73.
+
+  _Petronilla_, St. 11.
+
+  _Peyrome_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+
+  _Phaethon_'s, Story finely painted, 439.
+
+  _Pharao_, plaid in the Conclave of Cardinals, 70.
+
+  _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, his submissive Speech to _Phillip_
+      IV. King of _Spain_, 145.
+
+  _Philips_, Mr. Preceptor to the Duke, 448.
+
+  _Philipsburg_, Siege of, 259.
+
+  _Picus, de Mirandola_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Piedmontese_, their Court and Character, 165, 166, 168.
+
+  PIETRA SANTA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Pignatelli_, Cardinal, 86.
+
+  _Pilate_, whither banish'd, 173.
+
+  _Pilgrims_, Hospital at _Rome_, 76.
+
+  _Pin, Joseph_, Painter, 359.
+
+  PISA, _t._ 141.
+    Pride of the People, _ibid._
+
+  _Pius_ V. Pope, 80, 126.
+
+  _Pizzighitone_, taken, 255.
+
+  _Platen_, Count _de_, Post-master of _Hanover_, 238.
+    His Daughter's Marriage and Pension from King _George_ I. and II.
+        238.
+
+  _Plettenburg_, Count _de_, 341, 344, 345, 346.
+
+  _Polignac_, Cardinal, 85.
+
+  PONT DE BONVOISIN, _t._ 172.
+
+  _Pontchartrain_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 235, 237.
+
+  _Ponthievre_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Popelsdorf_, Village, 340.
+
+  _Popes_, the Days on which the Cardinals kiss their Feet, 17.
+    Character of their Nephews, 40.
+    Reception of Ambassadors, 121.
+
+  _Pope_, who was the first that was crown'd, 22.
+    Compar'd to the Holy Sepulchre, 29.
+
+  _Portail_, M. _de_, President, 249.
+
+  _Portland_, Earl of, 408.
+
+  _Portugal_, _Henry_, Cardinal of, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    Its broils with the Court of _Rome_, 116 to 119.
+
+  _Poultier_, M. Intendant at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _P----y, William_, 451.
+
+  _Poyntz, Stephen_, Esq, 448.
+
+  _Pragmatic Sanction_, 403.
+
+  _Prebends_, bought and sold, 369.
+
+  _Precedence_, Disputes about it betwixt Ambassadors, 400 to 403.
+
+  _Pretender_, his Pension and Honours from the Pope, 57, 58.
+    His Landlord, Courtiers, and Domestics, Style, and Stature, and his
+        Sons, 58, 59.
+    His Treatment from the Imperial and _French_ Cardinals, 58.
+    His Aspect and Character, 59.
+    His Mistress, _ibid._
+    His Protestant Chapel, and Table, _ibid._
+    His Wife, 60, 61.
+    Prophecy of his coming to the _British_ Throne, 63.
+
+  _Preys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Prie_, Marchioness, 166, 227, 304.
+
+  _Priests_, _Italian_, a heavy Charge against them, 112.
+
+  ---- _Flemish_, always railing at one another, 314.
+
+  _Printing_, where invented, 395.
+
+  _Procession_ Chair, of the Popes, 17.
+
+  _Prussia_, _Ducal_ or _Brandenburg_, 336.
+    _Fredric_, K. of, 338.
+
+  _Pucelage_, its Meaning, 284.
+
+  _Pucelle_, a Counsellor, banish'd from the Parliament at _Paris_, 282,
+      283.
+    Verses on his Exile, 284.
+
+  _Pussenburg_, Baron _de_, 296.
+
+  _Puppet-player_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Purpora_, the Singer, 66.
+
+  _Pyrrhus_'s Saying, after he had defeated the _Romans_, 253.
+
+
+          Q
+
+  _Q----y_, Duke of, his Behaviour on the Duchess's being forbid the
+      Court, 444.
+
+  QUIERI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Quinaut_, the famous Comedian, 266.
+
+
+          R
+
+  _Rabutyn_, _Bussy_'s, Letters, 181, 443.
+
+  _Raby_, Lord, his Amour, 410.
+
+  _Race_, run round St. _James_'s Park, by a naked Man, 470.
+
+  _Ramillies_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Raphael_, Painter, 24, 359.
+
+  _Rastadt_, Treaty, 254.
+
+  _Ratisbon_, _Theodore_, Bishop of, 349.
+
+  _Rats_, Tower in the _Rhine_, 352.
+
+  _Ratto_, Signior, 4.
+    Bishop of _Cordoua_, 85.
+
+  _Regulas, John_ II. K. of _France_ compar'd to him, 435.
+
+  _Reimbrants_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Reliques_, at _Aix_, the Time and Manner of exposing them, 329, 330.
+
+  _Remi_, (S.) a noted Better at the _French_ Court, 199, 200.
+
+  _Restitution_, by the Popes, what, 88.
+
+  _Retirement_, Verses in Praise of it, 223.
+
+  _Retz_, Duke of, 174.
+
+  _Rhebinder_, Marshal, 158, 159, 166.
+
+  RHEIMS, _t._ 269.
+
+  RHEN, _t._ 366.
+
+  _Rhenish_ Wine, where the best, 352.
+
+  RHINBECK, _t._ 347.
+
+  _Rhine_, R. 349.
+
+  _Rhinfields_ Castle, 351.
+
+  _Richardi_, Marquis, and his Son Don _Vincenzo_, 134.
+
+  _Richelieu_, Cardinal's Ingratitude to Q. _Mary de Medicis_, 334, 335.
+
+  _Richmond_, Duchess, 409.
+
+  _Ridelsheim_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Rinuccini_, Marquis, 132, 134, 137.
+
+  _Ripperda_, Duke _de_, 296.
+
+  _Rivoli_ Castle, 158.
+
+  _Robbery_, on the Highway, remarkable, 457.
+
+  _Robert_, (the Pious) K. of _France_, 98.
+
+  _Rochebonne_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+
+  _Roche, Sur-yon_, Mademoiselle _de la_, 218.
+
+  _Rodolph_ I. Emperor, a miraculous Appearance at his Coronation, 327,
+      328.
+
+  _Roer_, River, 332.
+
+  _Rohan_, Cardinal, 186.
+
+  ---- Prince, 205.
+
+  _Roll_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Rolling_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Romain, Julius_ Painter, 359.
+
+  _Roman_ Princes, their high Pretensions, 102, 104.
+
+  ---- Princesses and Popes Nieces more humble than formerly, 103.
+    How they are lighted to the Plays, 105.
+    Their unwieldy Coaches, and scrub Liveries, 106.
+    Why they never wear Mourning, 108.
+
+  ROME, _t._ Manners of the People, 67, 72, 73, 406.
+    Its Squares, 2, _&c._
+    Churches, 6, _&c._
+    Palaces, 24, _&c._ 36, _&c._
+    Theatres, 65.
+    Their Diversions and Repasts, 68, 69.
+    Our Author's Dislike of this City, 68, 72.
+    Why young Gentlemen ought to visit it, 72.
+    Its Hospitals, 76.
+    Consistories, 81.
+    The Time when all Ceremonies are laid aside, 105.
+    Their Funerals, 107, 108.
+    Mourning, 108.
+    Their Fireworks, 109.
+    Its Governor, 109, 110.
+    Senator, 110.
+    Executions, 111, 113.
+    Their Hatred of other _Italians_, 127.
+
+  _Rota_, Tribunal of, 109.
+
+  _Rotonda_ Church, 7.
+
+  ROTTERDAM, _t._ 426.
+
+  _Rubempr�_, Prince and Princess _de_, 300, 309.
+
+  _Rubens_, Painter, 317, 358, 359.
+
+  _Ruhi_, Marquis _de_, 318.
+
+  _Ruspanti_, Pensioners, why so call'd, 133.
+
+  _Ruspoli_, Signior, his Promotion to be a Cardinal, 77 to 80.
+
+  ---- Prince's, Funeral, 108.
+
+  _Rysnic_, 370, 425.
+
+
+          S
+
+  _Sacrament_, Holy, the Grandeur and Solemnity of the Pope's Procession
+      with it, 124, and of the Parish of _St. Sulpice_ in _France_, 202.
+
+  _Saltzu, Herman de_, 336.
+
+  _Salviati_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Santa Croce_, Prince of, 42.
+
+  SANTEN, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Santini_, Marquis, 341.
+
+  _Santa-Buona_, Duke, 60.
+
+  _Sardam_, Village, 389.
+
+  _Sardini_, Prelate, his Imprisonment, 92.
+
+  _Sardinia_, K. the Pope's Grant to him, _ibid._
+
+  _Sardinia, Victor Amedeus_ late K. of, his Abdication and Imprisonment,
+      156 to 164.
+    Son's Duty to him, 157 to 164.
+
+  _Sarno_, Duke of, 136.
+
+  SARZANA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Sastago_, Count _de_, 318.
+
+  _Savoy_, Duchess of, 156.
+    Palace in the _Strand_, 435.
+
+  _Savoy_, Princes of, 435.
+
+  _Savoyards_, Character, 171.
+
+  _Saurin_, M. 414.
+
+  _Saxony_, _John George_ IV. Elector of, 446.
+
+  _Scaliger_'s Character of _Lyons_, 173.
+
+  _Scarlet_, why the Cardinals Robes and Caps are of that Colour, 86.
+
+  _Scarron, Paul_, the Poet, who was Madame _de Maintenon_'s Husband,
+      264.
+
+  _Schasberg_, Count _de_, 361.
+
+  _Scheld_ River, 3.
+
+  SCHEVELING, _t._ 400.
+
+  SCHLANGENBADT, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Schourff_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Schouts_, _Dutch_, 376.
+
+  SCHWALBACH, _t._ and Waters, 356.
+
+  _Schwartzo_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Sculpture_, not the best in _London_, 434.
+
+  _Seaux_, the Duke of _Maine_'s Seat, 223.
+
+  _Schonborn_, Countess _de_, 350.
+
+  ---- _Francis-George_, Count _de_, Bishop of _Triers_, 350.
+
+  ---- Bishops of _Spires_, and _Bamberg_, 350, 353.
+
+  _Sebastian, St._ Marchioness _de_, 156, 157, _&c._ 160, 162, 164.
+
+  ---- K. of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  ---- _St._ t. taken, 258.
+
+  _Seignelay_, Marquis of, his Bombardment of _Genoa_, 144.
+
+  _Senator_, of _Rome_, 110.
+
+  _Seneca_'s Statue, 49.
+
+  _Senesino_, the Singer, 466.
+
+  _Senez_, Bishop of, 240.
+
+  SENS, _t._ 183.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  SERSARA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Servants_, the Custom of treating 'em in _England_, ridiculed, 465.
+
+  SESTRI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Ships_, the Difference betwixt the _English_ and _Spaniards_, and
+      those of three Decks, and two, 138.
+
+  _Sinzendorf_, Count, 232, 403.
+
+  ---- Countess, her Conversion to Popery by a Flash of Lightning, 149.
+
+  _Sixtus_ IV. his Power as to Hell and Purgatory, 25.
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 8, 9, 25, 31.
+
+  _Skates, Dutch_, describ'd, 384.
+
+  _Slingeland_, the (late) Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, 406.
+
+  _Smith, Richard_, Bookbinder, and his Wife, their tragical Catastrophe,
+      270, _&c._
+    Their Apology for killing themselves and their Child, and the
+        Confession of their Faith, 271, 272.
+
+  _Snow_, in _August_, 13.
+
+  _Sobieski_, Prince and Princess. 61, 63.
+    Her Arrest, as she went to be marry'd to the Pretender, 61.
+    Her Escape, 61, 62.
+    Her Reception at _Rome_ by Lady _Marr_, &c. and the Cardinals, 63.
+    Her Death, _ibid._
+
+  _Sodomite_, the pert Answer of one to a Cardinal, 112.
+
+  _Soissons_, Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Solare_, Chevalier _de_, 162, 163, 164.
+
+  SPA, _t._ and Waters, 325.
+    Great Resort to it, 326.
+
+  _Spain_, Q. Dowager of _Lewis_ I. her Marriage, and her silent Visit
+      from _Lewis_ XV. 207.
+    Her Retirement to a Convent. 208.
+
+  _Spaniards_ Arrival at _Leghorn_, 134, 136, 137.
+    Comparison between their Officers and Ships, and the _English_, 138.
+
+  _Sparr_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  _Speik_, Madame _de_, 361.
+
+  _Spigo_, Marquisate, and Marchioness, 157, 158, 160.
+
+  _Spinola, John Baptist_, Cardinal, 130.
+
+  _Spork_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Stadthouse_, at _Amsterdam_, 377 to 380.
+
+  _Stage_ Players, the extravagant Respect paid to 'em in _France_, 266,
+      _&c._
+    A Joke put upon them by President _Harlai_, 267.
+
+  _Stampa_, General, 120.
+
+  _Stein_, Baron, 311.
+
+  _Stilletto_, the frequent Use of it at _Rome_, 73, 74.
+
+  _Stoves, Dutch_, describ'd, 372.
+
+  _Strafford_, Earl of, 438, 451, 452.
+    His prophetical Conversation with the D. of _Ormond_, 453.
+
+  _Strappa Corda_, what, 111.
+
+  _Strickland_, Bishop, 319.
+
+  _Strozzi_, Duke, 52.
+
+  _Suarez_, Madame, 135.
+
+  _Sudarini_, Marquis, his Present of a fine Coach to his
+      Daughter-in-law, 106.
+
+  _Sulpice, St._ the Parson's, Lottery, 201.
+    His Parsonage a fat one, 202.
+    Its Seminary, _ibid._
+
+  _Surnames_, the Moderns blamed for not giving them to their Heroes as
+      well as the Ancients, 251.
+
+  SUSA, _t._ 168.
+
+
+          T
+
+  _Tallard_, Duchess, 205, 211.
+
+  _Tancin_, Archbishop of _Ambrun_, 240.
+
+  _Tapistry_ Manufactures, 308.
+
+  _Targa_, Bp. Cardinal _Coscia_'s Brother, 91.
+
+  _Tavannes_, Count _de_, 182.
+
+  _Taverns, English_, better than the _French_, 465.
+
+  _Tenebra_, a fine Piece of Music, 96.
+
+  _Terrasson_, Abb�, 243.
+
+  _Teutonic_ Order, Masters of it, 326.
+
+  _Texeria_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Thames_ River, 431, 432.
+
+  _Theatres_ at _Paris_, better open'd than shut, 385.
+
+  _Theodore_, Baron _de Neuhoff_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Tholouse_, Count _de_, and Countess, 199, 220, 221, 226.
+    Her Sister, 260.
+
+  _Thou_, M. _de_, Ambassador, his Dispute with a _Spaniard_ about
+      Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Tingry_, Prince _de_, 296.
+
+  _Tintoret_, Painter, 359.
+
+  TIRLEMONT, _t._ 319.
+
+  _Titian_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Titus_'s Arch at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  TONGRES, _t._ 323.
+
+  _Torcy_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Tour_ and _Taxis_, Prince and Princess, 306, 307, 308.
+    His Mother and Children, 307.
+
+  _Tour, Humbert de la_, 172, 173.
+
+  _Touraine, la_, 216.
+
+  _Tranquillity_, Christian, a Poem, on the Disputes of the Times, 279.
+
+  _Treaties_ of Peace, three concluded successively in the Dominions of
+      the _Dutch_, 370.
+
+  _Tremouille_, Cardinal _de_, 215.
+
+  TREVOUX, _t._ 179, 180.
+
+  _Triers, Francis-George_, Count _de Schonborn_, the present Bishop,
+      350, 351.
+
+  _Triple Crown_, by what Pope first worn, 22.
+
+  _Trotti_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Tuilleries_, in _France_, Garden, 436.
+
+  _Tulip-Root_, of great Value, 395.
+
+  TURIN, _t._ 152.
+    Its University, 167.
+    Its Siege, 152, 153.
+
+  _Tuscans_, the great Hopes they entertained of _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Tuscany_'s Great Duke, his Manner of giving Audience in Bed, with his
+      Lap-Dogs, and his hearty Reception of our Author, 131, 132, 134.
+    His Indolence in his Bed-chamber, and Deshabille, 133.
+    His Kindness to Pilgrims, and Fondness for the _Germans_, ibid.
+    His Pensioners and Paymaster, _ibid._
+    Who influenced him to recognise Don _Carlos_ for his Successor, 134.
+
+  _Twicked, Wassenaer de_, 412.
+
+  _Tyburn_ Executions, 458, 459.
+
+
+          V
+
+  _Vahal_, River, 365.
+
+  _Val de Grace Church_, 198.
+
+  VALENCIENNES, _t._ 296.
+
+  _Valere_, Mademoiselle _de_, 188, 219.
+
+  _Valois, Philip de_, 172.
+
+  _Vander Borg_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Vander Duin_, Messieurs, 408.
+
+  _Vandyke_, 359.
+
+  _Varengeville, Joanna de_, Wife of the Marshal _Villars_, 255.
+
+  _Vatican_ Palace, 24, 31.
+
+  ---- Library, 25.
+
+  _Vauhan_, M. Engineer, 315.
+
+  _Vayrac_, Abb�, the Author, 273.
+    His pleasant Rencounter with a pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, 273,
+        274.
+    His Plagiarism, 274.
+
+  _Vendosme_, Duke de, 253. Why he has not left his Fellow, 254.
+
+  _Venerie Castle_, 155.
+
+  _Venice_ and _Amsterdam_ compar'd, 371.
+
+  _Ventadour_, Duke and Duchess _de_, 205, 334.
+
+  _Vermillon_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Veronese, Paul_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Versailles_ Park, 436.
+
+  _Vespasian_'s Amphitheatre, 35.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Mademoiselle _de_, her unhappy Fate in the Fire at
+      _Brussels_, 301, 403.
+
+  VIAREGGIO Forest and Village, 141, 142.
+
+  _Victor_, King of _Sardinia_, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 155 to
+      164.
+    His Advice to the famous _John Law_, 239.
+    His Treaty with _France_ and _Spain_, 252.
+
+  _Vienna_ Treaty, 296.
+
+  VIENNE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Villars_, Marshal de, _Francis Hector_, 250 to 256.
+    Our Author's smart Answer to him, when he boasted of his Clemency at
+        _Denain_, 251.
+    His Invention of a Surname for the Marshal, which put him in good
+        Humour, 252.
+    His Creation as Marshal of _France_, _ib._
+    His Conduct in the _Cevennois_ and in _Flanders_, 253.
+    His Preferment to the Government of _Provence_, and his Compliment to
+        the Memory of his deceased Predecessor, 254.
+    His remarkable Expressions to the _French_ King, when he went to the
+        Command in _Germany_, and when he had purchas'd an Estate,
+        _ibid._
+    His Command, Sickness and Death, in _Italy_, 255.
+    His Family and Character, _ibid._ 256.
+    His nimble Trip from a Ball to a Battle, _ibid._
+    A Sonnet made on him when he set out last for _Italy_, _ibid._
+    His Scruple to accept of a Commission to act against the King of
+        _Spain_, 258.
+
+  _Villeroy_, M. 174, 178, 229.
+    The Family, _ibid._ 175.
+
+  _Vinci, Leonard_, 66.
+
+  _Vintimille_, N. N. Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+    His Concern for the Goodness of his Mutton, greater than for that of
+        the Pasture of his Sheep, 193.
+    His equal Respect to different Orders, and an Epigram upon his
+        Mandate, in favour of the _Constitution Unigenitus_, 193.
+
+  _Viol_, holy, at _St. Rheims_, the Story of it, 269, 270.
+
+  _Visconti_, Count _de_, and Countess, 300, 302, 307, 308.
+
+  _Vitriarius_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Voisin_, M. Secretary at War, 235.
+
+  _Voltaire_, the Poet, his Tragedy of _Brutus_ admir'd, 265.
+    Criticis'd, 266, 467.
+
+  _Urban_ V. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Urban_ VIII. Pope, his Order about the Cardinals Title, 86.
+
+  _Vrilliere_, M. Secretary of State, 209, 237, 238.
+
+  ---- Madame _de_, 238.
+
+  _Ursini_, Cardinal, his Election to be Pope, 26, 27.
+
+  _Ushers_ of the Pope, their Privilege, 81.
+
+  UTRECHT, _t._ 367, 368, _&c._
+
+  ---- its Walls resembling those of Jericho, 368.
+    _Lewis_ XIV. afraid of its Cellars, _ibid._
+
+  _Uxelles_, Marshal de, 354.
+
+
+          W
+
+  _Wager_, Admiral's Arrival at _Leghorn_, whither he convoy'd the
+      _Spaniards_, 136.
+
+  _Waldeck_, Prince, 21, 57.
+
+  _Wales_, _Frederic_, Pr. of, 447.
+
+  _Wallingford_, Ld. his Marriage, 240.
+
+  _Walpole_, Sir _Robert_, 450, 451.
+
+  _Walpol_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Walrave_, Colonel, 362.
+
+  _Wartemberg_, Countess de, 409, 410.
+    Her innumerable Adventures of Gallantry, 409.
+
+  _Wassenaars_, of _Holland_, 412.
+
+  _Water-works_, finer than those of _St. Cloud_, 269.
+
+  _Watteville_, Mademoiselle de, 311.
+
+  _Welderen_, Count _de_, 407, 408, 409.
+
+  _Werf, Vander_, a Painter, 359.
+
+  WESEL, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Westminster_ Abbey and Palace, 440, 441.
+
+  _Wetzler_ Chamber, 324.
+
+  _Whitehall_, Palace, 435.
+
+  _Whitworth_, Lady, her smart Rebuke of Cardinal _Corsini_, for
+      pretending to meddle with Houshold Affairs at _Cambray_ Congress,
+      119.
+
+  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assassination, 425.
+
+  _William_ III. Prince of _Orange_'s Dispute for Precedency with the
+      Count _d'Estrades_, 401.
+
+  ---- Disputes adjusted relating to his Succession, 405, 406.
+
+  ---- _Charles-Henry_, Prince of, 412, 413.
+
+  _Windmills_ of _Holland_, 389.
+
+  _Windsor_ Palace, by whom built, 450.
+
+  _Wirtemberg_, _Lewis_, Pr. of, his, saying to the _Genoese_, about
+      _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  ---- _Alexander_, Pr. of, 307.
+
+  _Wogan_, Mr. in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Wolffgang de Neubourgh_, Duke, 359.
+
+  _Wolsey_, Cardinal 450.
+
+  _Women_ Lying-in, a Protection to their Husbands, 396.
+
+  _Worms_, fatal to the Dykes of _Holland_, 392, 393.
+
+  _Wrangel_, Marshal _de_, 309.
+
+  _Wurmbrand_, Count _de_, ibid.
+
+  _Wuytiers Barkman_, Bp. of _Utrecht_, 369.
+
+  _Wynendale_ Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+
+          Z
+
+  ZEIST, _t._ 367.
+
+  ---- Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  _Zuchro_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Zumjungen_, Marshal _de_, 308, 309.
+
+                                _FINIS._
+
+
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[1] His Eminency died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, after which,
+Signior _Thomas Ratto_, and _Ottinelli_, heretofore Auditor of the
+_Rota_, and now Bishop of _Cordoua_, had the Care of the _Spanish_
+Affairs, in which he was succeeded by Cardinal _Acquaviva_.
+
+[2] Now Pope _Clement_ XII. whose Nephews and Nieces dwell in it.
+
+[3] The last Hackney that was presented on the Part of the House of
+_Austria_, was deliver'd by the Prince of _Santa Croce_, whom the
+Emperor appointed for that Ceremony, because _Spain_ having conquer'd
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, the Constable was not willing to concern
+himself in the Affair, before it was finally decided. This was in the
+Year 1734.
+
+[4] He is now a Cardinal and Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+[5] This Princess, who was born _July_ 6. 1702. O. S. died _Jan._ 7.
+1735.
+
+[6] As the Baron above three Years since durst not venture much Money on
+the fulfilling of this Prophecy, we may now say it is not worth a
+Farthing.
+
+[7] His Eminency is return'd to _France_, and succeeded in his Embassy
+by the Duke of _St. Aignan_.
+
+[8] The Death of this Cardinal has been already mention'd. His Successor
+is M. _Ratto_, Bishop of _Cordoua_.
+
+[9] _Henry_ was Son to King _Emanuel_, and _Sebastian_ was Grandson of
+_John_ III. Brother to the Cardinal _Henry_.
+
+[10] He did it however in the Year 1733.
+
+[11] Since these Letters were wrote, he is actually return'd, and
+hitherto he is come but poorly off. Tho' his Fate be not yet intirely
+determin'd, 'tis certain that he will not be degraded. A Sentence has
+been pass'd upon him, and ratify'd, whereby he is declar'd
+excommunicate, and out of a Possibility of being absolv'd, but by the
+Pope, even _in articulo mortis_; he is also to be confin'd in a
+Fortress, depriv'd of the Power of Speaking or Voting, _&c._ But as
+_omnia venalia Roma_, even more now than in _Jugurtha_'s Time, the
+Cardinal _del Gindici_, who is a Friend of his Eminency _Coscia_, gave
+him to understand, that the Pope was resolv'd to treat him as a Grand
+_Vizier_ in Disgrace; that he must absolutely refund, and that all his
+Sins shou'd be blotted out. Consequently his Eminency submitted to
+implore his Holiness's Clemency, on Condition of paying well for it; and
+in fine, his Pardon has been tax'd at thirty thousand Ducats. He has
+clamour'd against it not a little; but the Holy Father wou'd not abate
+an Ace of it, and the Cardinal was forc'd to acquiesce; however, as he
+always watches for the Death of the Pope, he desir'd to pay it at
+several Terms; and upon depositing ten thousand Crowns down, he
+immediately receiv'd Absolution, his Guards were taken off, and he had
+Liberty granted him to walk about in the Castle of _St. Angelo_, and to
+converse there with his Brother the Bishop of _Targa_. He pleads
+Poverty, and shuffles off his Payments from one time to another, in
+constant Expectation that the Gout will rise into the Pope's Stomach,
+and take him out of his Way. At length, in 1734, he paid down ten
+thousand Crowns more. But a Collector of Taxes, from whom he formerly
+receiv'd a great Present to procure him an Acquittance from the Chamber,
+to which he ow'd seventy thousand Crowns, died lately insolvent, and
+without making good the Fraud; and as _C�sar_, they say, _loses
+nothing_, the Chamber comes upon Cardinal _Coscia_, who is condemn'd to
+pay this Deficiency too, and the Pope won't hear any Talk of compounding
+it.
+
+[12] He Afterwards created him a Cardinal; but he died at _Benevento_ in
+1733. Nobody after his Death wou'd accept of this Benefice, till the
+Pope gave it to the Abbat _Conti_, a _Roman_, who only took it upon
+Condition that his Holiness wou'd give him a red Hat to boot; which he
+did accordingly, at the last Promotion of Cardinals.
+
+[13] It was publish'd in the News-papers of 1732, that this Gentleman
+was sentenc'd to be beheaded, but that his Holiness had commuted that
+Sentence to ten Years Imprisonment. It was afterwards said in the public
+News, that the Pope had shorten'd it, first, to seven Years, and then to
+three Years Imprisonment. At length the Pope was for removing him to
+_Perousa_, or elsewhere; but the Prelate wou'd not go, and said, If he
+cou'd not have his intire Liberty, he wou'd live and die in the Castle
+of _St. Angelo_.
+
+[14] The Origin of this Ceremony, if we may believe Father _Sirmond_ and
+_Ciccarelli_, was this: It comes from a Custom they had at _Rome_, of
+distributing to the People upon every _Whitsunday_ the Remainder of the
+Paschal Wax-taper, which was consecrated on _Holy Saturday_. The Vulgar,
+who are always superstitious, appropriated several Virtues to this
+consecrated Wax, particularly that 'twas a Preservative against the
+Delusions of the Devil, and the Injuries of Lightning, _&c._ and they
+us'd to burn little Pieces of this Wax in their Houses. There being not
+enough left of the Paschal Wax-taper to satisfy the Cravings of the
+People, the Archdeacon took it into his Head to take some other Wax,
+which he sprinkled with Oil, bless'd it, and made little Bits of it in
+the Form of a Lamb, and then distributed them to the People. Afterwards
+they only flatted those Pieces of Wax, and impress'd 'em with the Stamp
+of a Lamb bearing the Standard of the Cross. They believe that none but
+such as are in Orders have the Power to touch them, and they are cover'd
+neatly with embroider'd Stuff to be given to the Laity. There is nothing
+by which the Monks more successfully impose upon the Credulous; for to
+such they distribute _Agnus Dei_'s that were never on t'other Side of
+the _Alps_.
+
+[15] He is the Pope's Vicechamberlain.
+
+[16] When he was at the Congress at _Cambray_, he had a Fancy to regulate
+every Plenipotentiary's Houshold; and indeed, that was all he did there.
+One Day he took it into his Head to give his [OE]conomical Rules at my
+Lord _Whitworth_'s, but he did not find my Lady very compliant; for, said
+she, M. _le Marquis, We make use of the +Italians+ to regulate our
++Concerts+; but as for the Table, pray give us leave to consult the
++French+._
+
+[17] Cardinal _Grimani_ succeeded Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ in the
+Legateship of _Bologna_, as soon as the present Pope had created him a
+Cardinal; but he died in the Legateship, and his Holiness conferr'd it
+upon _John Baptist Spinola_, whom he had just before advanc'd to the
+Purple.
+
+[18] Nevertheless there is a Difference between these two Families: The
+Duke _Ferdinand_ the last Survivor of that of _Kettler_, but of the
+Family of _Medicis_ there are Princes still living, who have an
+incontestable Right to the Succession; for 'tis certain, that _Bernard
+de Medicis_, the eldest Brother of Pope _Leo_ XI. descended from
+_Juvenco de Medicis_, Brother of _Sylvester Clarissimus_, the Head of
+the present reigning Branch, which _Bernard de Medicis_ was the Son of
+_Ottaviano_, the last Standard-bearer of _Florence_ in 1528. This
+_Bernard_ purchas'd the Barony of _Ottajano_ near Mount _Vesuvius_ in
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, to which he transferr'd this Branch of the
+_Medicis_; and the present Prince of _Ottajano_, and Duke of _Sarno_,
+who married _Theresa_, Daughter of _Charles_ Prince of _Acquaviva_, is
+his Great Great Grandson.
+
+[19] The Count _de Charni_ signs N. _d'Orleans C. de Charni_. He is a
+Bastard of the _Orleans_ Family, but by whom is not known. He has
+advanc'd himself at the Court of _Spain_, and is now Commandant of
+_Naples_, and Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom.
+
+[20] This Prince went thro' _France_, and arriv'd at _Florence_ the
+Beginning of the Year 1732.
+
+[21] This young Prince died in 1734, as his illustrious Uncle did in the
+Year following.
+
+[22] The _Spaniards_ took it at the Beginning of the War, and 'twas the
+first of their Exploits.
+
+[23] _Giafferi_ did all he could; but was obliged to submit to Force,
+the Republic being assisted by the Troops which the Emperor had
+assembled in _Lombardy_, to oppose the Enterprizes he was then
+apprehensive of from the _Spaniards_. _Giafferi_ was arrested, but by a
+great deal of Art and Cunning he obtain'd his Freedom, after the
+_Genoese_ thought the _Corsicans_ were disarmed, destitute of Leaders,
+and reduced to a Sense of their Duty; and he retired to _Tuscany_. But
+the _Corsicans_ being no better treated than they were before their
+Accommodation, took up Arms again, upon which _Giafferi_ procured them
+all manner of Assistance, and actually returned to that Island, and put
+himself at the Head of the Malecontents, who seemed to have a fair
+Chance of regaining their Liberties. They were so uppish in Expectation
+of foreign Assistance, that they rejected some new Concessions made to
+them by the _Genoese_, in _Dec, 1734_, declar'd _Aitelli_ General of the
+Forces, and one _Costa_, a Man of great Intrigues, General-Auditor of
+the Island; and, at the same time, made Proposals to the King of _Spain_
+to take them under his Protection, having renounced all Subjection to
+the Republic of _Genoa_, declar'd themselves a free and independent
+People, and resolv'd to defend their Liberties to the last Man. At
+length they receiv'd some Recruits of Money and Ammunition by one
+_Theodore_, who call'd himself the Baron _de Neuhoff_, and arriv'd in
+_March_ 1736. on Board an _English_ Ship from _Tunis_; but in the Name
+of what Power he acted, is as yet a Mystery. He had the Success to be
+proclaim'd King of _Corsica_, and Copper Money was coin'd there with his
+Effigies; but he has since been obliged to abandon the Island; and the
+_French_ have taken upon them to accommodate Matters between the
+_Genoese_ and _Corsicans_. It must be left to Time, to shew whether the
+_Genoese_ will have Reason to be pleased with this formidable Mediation.
+After all, that Republic has too much Cause to remember the Saying of
+Prince _Lewis_ of _Wirtemberg_, who, when he return'd with the Imperial
+Troops from suppressing the former Rebellion, told them, That the Island
+was not worth the Expences which the Republic had been at in reducing
+the _Corsicans_, and what they must be at continually to keep them in
+Subjection.
+
+[24] The Prince had a Kindness for Mademoiselle _de Cumiane_, before she
+was married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, when she was Maid of Honour
+to Madame Royale. She was afterwards a Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Savoy_, and at last Tire-Woman to the Princess of _Piedmont_, late
+Queen of _Sardinia_. She has been a Widow since 1723. After she was
+married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, she still preserv'd the King's
+Friendship and Esteem, and was always in great Credit with him. When she
+became a Widow, the old Flames of Love broke out again; the King gave
+her an Apartment at Court, where he cou'd see her without being seen,
+and he took Care of her Family.
+
+[25] 'Tis said, that the real Motive of this Abdication was his
+Perplexity on Account of the Succession of _Parma_ and _Tuscany_, and
+the Introduction of the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_. They say he
+had enter'd into Engagements relating to this Affair, first with the
+Court of _Vienna_, and afterwards with _Spain_; and it not being
+possible for him to satisfy either of those Courts without exposing
+himself to the Resentment of the other, he resolved to abdicate, at
+least for a Time, because he knew of no other Way to extricate himself
+from the Dilemma.
+
+[26] The Abdication was performed the 3d of _September_, in the Castle
+of _Rivoli_. The declar'd Motives, were the Fatigues of a Reign of fifty
+Years, the Infirmities of old Age, and the Necessity of some Interval of
+Retirement, between a Throne and a Tomb.
+
+[27] The King was not marry'd to the Countess of _St. Sebastian_, till
+he came to _Chamberry_, where she met him; for he set out from _Turin_
+without her. When he marry'd her, he gave her one hundred thousand
+Crowns, with which she purchased the Marquisate of _Spigo_ for her
+Children, and then exchang'd her Title of Countess of _St. Sebastian_
+for that of Marchioness of _Spigo_.
+
+[28] _Victor Amedeus_ took it into his Head to reascend the Throne, as
+soon as he heard of the Conclusion of the Treaty of _Vienna_, by which
+the Emperor consented to the Introduction of the _Spaniards_. He then
+let the Marchioness _del Spigo_ into the true Motives of his Abdication,
+and into the Measures he intended to take for reascending the Throne.
+This ambitious Woman encourag'd him, and being withal a very cunning
+intriguing Person, she left no Stone unturn'd to bring a Project to
+bear, which would set her on the Throne; and she engag'd all her Friends
+and Relations in the Affair, of whom some betray'd her.
+
+[29] These Proofs were his sending for the Marquis _del Borgo_ to
+_Montcallier_, demanding the Instrument of Abdication from him, giving
+him but twelve Hours time to fetch it, and his appearing before the
+Citadel of _Turin_, with a View of getting into it, and of animating the
+Garison to assist him in his Enterprise.
+
+[30] These were all Privy Counsellors and Great Men, who being assembled
+by Order of the King, and consulted on the imminent Danger of his being
+dethron'd were all of Opinion for putting _Victor Amedeus_ and his
+Consort under an Arrest.
+
+[31] He died _Oct._ 31. 1732.
+
+[32] She died _Jan._ 13. 1735. and his Majesty has since married Sister
+of the present Great Duke of _Tuscany_.
+
+[33] There is now but one Prince, the youngest being dead; but there are
+three Princesses.
+
+[34] This is the Cardinal _Ferrera_, Bishop of _Verceil_.
+
+[35] This wou'd be very extraordinary, as Mr. _Addison_ observes, were
+it not for other neighbouring Mountains that rise above it.
+
+[36] This shews another Mistake of _Misson_, who says this Side is the
+most rugged.
+
+[37] The _French_ are not the only People who boast of the Grandeur and
+other Advantages of _Lyons_, as appears from this Epigram by _Scaliger_.
+
+_Flumineis Rhodanus qua se fugat incitus undis, Quaque pigro dubitat
+flumine mitis Arar, Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus orbis in orbe,
+Lugdunumque vetus orbis in orbe novo. Quod nolis, alibi quaras; hic
+quare quod optas: Aut hic, aut nusquam, vincre vota potes. Lugduni
+quodcunque potest dare mundus habebis: Plura petas, hac urbs & tibi
+plura dabit._
+
+i. e.
+
+_Where +Rhone+ impetuous rolls, and where the slow And gentle +S�on+
+with milder Streams does flow, There +Lyons+ stands; where we united
+find, What scatter'd thro' the World delights the Mind; And if you still
+seek more with greedy eye, +Lyons+ can ev'n more Wonders still supply._
+
+[38] Her Amours with M. _de Lauzun_ have made a great Noise.
+
+[39] This Misfortune came upon the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_, merely
+from a Suspicion which the Regent entertain'd, that the Duke had a Hand
+in the pretended Conspiracy of the Prince of _Cellamare_, the Ambassador
+of _Spain_; which, they said, was to remove the Duke of _Orleans_ from
+the Regency, and to vest it in the King of _Spain_, who wou'd have put
+the Duke of _Maine_ in his Place, according to _Lewis_ XIVth's last
+Will. The bare Suspicion however amounted to fix the Guilt upon this
+Prince, and all that belong'd to him. It were to be wish'd, that some
+Eye-witness of what was then transacted at Court, and in _Bretagne_,
+wou'd give the Public an exact Account of it.
+
+[40] The Friar, who in the other Orders is a Prior, is call'd a Minister
+in this Order, which it better known in _France_ by the Name of the
+_Mathurias_.
+
+[41] In all Appearance, the _Latin_ Name _Lutetia_ comes from
+_Leucothecia_, which signifies _white Town_, a Name that _Strabo_ gives
+to this City, the Houses of which were plaister'd. By Abbreviation it
+was call'd _Lutetia_. As to the Name _Paris_, 'tis certain, that it
+comes from _Para-Isis_, near _Isis_, a well-known Goddess, who had
+several Temples in this Canton; where she was so particularly
+worshipp'd, that from her Name the Inhabitants were call'd
+_Para-Isians_, the Neighbours of _Isis_. They, who have carefully
+examin'd the Gate of the _Carmelites_ Church, and the Building of its
+Chapel, will own, that it was formerly the Temple of this Goddess; whose
+Statue, in Iron, holding a Handful of Ears of Corn, is still on the
+Front of the Building.
+
+[42] The Author does not say _whither_ nor _from whence_ those Sheep are
+stray'd. All those Sheep feed in the same Pasture, or at least, there
+are but few of 'em that feed in the Pastures to which M. _de Vintimille_
+could wish to bring the others. Some Slanderers don't scruple to say,
+that this _good_ Prelate gives himself more Uneasiness about the
+_Excellency of the Dishes_ at his Table, than the Goodness of the
+Pasture for his Sheep: For he has been seen to give the same Welcome to
+the _Jesuits_, and the _Fathers of the Oratory_, to the _Capuchins_ and
+the _Benedictins_, &c. For the Sake of such of our Readers as have a
+Taste for _French_ Poetry, we insert the following _Epigram_; which was
+made upon this Prelate's Mandate in Favour of the Constitution:
+
+_Le Public est un Sot, d'�tre scandalis� Du Mandement que +Vintimille+
+Vient de repandre dans la Ville, Me disoit ce Matin un Docteur avis�! Il
+est, dit il, d'Usage indispensable, Pour qu'un Saint soit canonis�,
+D'entendre l'Avocat du Diable._
+
+[43] This is a Thing in Question; and the Negative seems to be plainly
+proved by the Opinions of the Counsellors of the Parlement, all Men of
+unexceptionable Character, who voted for putting the Reverend Father to
+Death.
+
+[44] He is now Archbishop of _Sens_, and very well known for the famous
+Story of _Maria Aliacoque_, a celebrated Saint of his own making.
+
+[45] The Count _de Gergy_ died in 1733 in his Embassy, and was succeeded
+by the Count _de Froulay_.
+
+[46] As the Parson of St. _Sulpice_ stretches his Invention to the
+utmost, how to allure the Multitude, in 1734 he out-did all that he had
+ever done before, so that his Procession was more like the March of an
+Army than any thing else, because of the many Trumpets, Kettle-drums,
+Hunting-horns, _&c._ which made the Air echo with their Flourishes. It
+may by Degrees come to be like the Processions at _Cambray_, _Antwerp_,
+_Brussels_, and other Towns of the _Netherlands_; where, to the Scandal
+of the Christian Religion, we see the Revival of all the Impertinencies
+of the Pagan.
+
+[47] The Mode of _Bagnolette_, _i. e._ Bathing-tubs, came from this
+Village, to which the Country-women carry them.
+
+[48] _Philippa Elisabeth_ of _Orleans_. She died of the Small-pox _May_
+21, 1734. unmarried, and universally lamented.
+
+[49] _Louisa Diana_ of _Orleans_. She was married in 1732. to _Lewis_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conti_, by whom she had a Son, born _Sept._ 1,
+1734. while the Prince was in the King's Army upon the _Rhine_.
+
+[50] It should have been observ'd in the Article of _Turin_, that this
+Queen died the second of _January_, 1735, O. S. and the King has since
+marry'd the eldest Sister of the present Duke of _Lorain_.
+
+[51] He is married since 1732, to _Louisa-Diana_ of _Orleans_, youngest
+Daughter of the late Regent.
+
+[52] The Origin of the Fable is this. _Mehemed Ben Aschen_, or the Son
+of _Aschen_, Admiral of _Sale_, was deputed from the King of _Morocco_,
+but I know not in what Year, to the Court of _France_. When this Corsair
+was at _Paris_, he heard great Talk of the Princess of _Conti_'s Beauty,
+and of the particular Affection which the King had for her: In order to
+ingratiate himself with the _French_, he gave out, that the Emperor his
+Master having seen the Picture of that Princess among other Effects
+which belong'd to a Christian who was taken into Slavery, he thought her
+the most beautiful of her Sex; and that his _Moorish_ Majesty said, That
+if he had such a Lady in his Seraglio, he should never desire any other.
+_Mehemed_'s Story was presently carried far and near, but it was told
+quite different from the Truth; for it was reported in a very little
+time, that he was come to demand the Princess in Marriage for _Muley
+Ismael_ his Master. As there seem'd to be something mysterious in the
+Picture, a Messenger was sent in all Haste to the Ambassador's Lodgings,
+to know the Name of the Slave from whom it was taken; but his
+_Mahometan_ Excellency so prevaricated, that his Answer was far from
+being satisfactory. Nevertheless, his pretended Demand of this Princess
+was so much the Subject of Conversation among the _French_ for several
+Months, that according to the Custom of this People, they at length made
+a Sonnet upon it, which follows.
+
+To the Tune of _Je ne suis n� ni Roi ni Prince_.
+
+_Votre beaut�, grande Princesse, Porte les traits dont l'Amour blesse,
+Jusques aux plus sauvages dieux: L'Afrique avec vous capitule, Et les
+conqu�tes de vos yeux Vont plus loin que celles d'Hercule._
+
+_S'il est bien vrai qu'il vous adore, Que je plains ce pauvre Roi Maure,
+D'�tre sensible � vos appas! En vain envers vous il s'explique; La
+France ne donnera pas Son Ange au Diable de l'Afrique._
+
+Which may be thus English'd,
+
+_Your Beauty, Great Princess, Carries Love's killing Shafts To Nations
+the most savage; +Afric+ with you capitulates, And the Conquests of your
+Eyes Even those of +Hercules+ surmount._
+
+_If it be true that he adores you, How do I pity the poor Negro King,
+Who is so smitten with your Charms! In vain he makes his Passion known
+to you; For sure +France+ will never give Her Angel to the Devil of
++Africa+._
+
+[53] 'Tis a Letter _from a Gentleman retir'd from the World, to a Friend
+of his_, wherein he celebrates the happy Innocence, and the Freedom of
+his tranquil Retreat, in a Style that cannot but be pleasing to the
+Admirers of _French_ Poetry; and for their Sakes we insert the Original,
+with only an _English_ Paraphrase in the Margin.
+
+Je vois regner sur ce rivage The Author begins with expressing
+L'Innocence et la Libert�. his Surprise at the Concurrence Que d'Objects
+dans ce paisage, of Objects of different Qualities Malgre leur
+contrariet�, in his Retirement; such as M'�tonnent par leur Ass�mbl�ge!
+Abundance with Frugality, Abondante frugalit�, Authority with
+Indulgence, Riches Autorit� sans Esclav�ge with Sobriety, Richesses sans
+Libertinag�, Charges, Noblesse, sans fuert�. Honours with Humility: And
+having Mon choix est fait, ce voisinage therefore fix'd on this Spot for
+D�termine ma volont�. his Residence, he implores the Bienfaisante
+Divinit�, Sanction of the Divine Providence Ajoutez y votre suffrage. to
+his Choice.
+
+Disciple de l'Adversit�, Here he says, that having been Je viens faire
+dans le village train'd-up in the School of Le volontaire apprentissage
+Adversity, he prefers a voluntary D'une tardive obscurit�. Obscurity in
+the Village; that he Aussi bien, de mon plus bel �ge has experienc'd the
+Instability of J'apper�ois l'instabilit�. Youth; that he has seen the
+Return J'ai deja, de compte arr�t�, of 40 Springs, which he regrets
+Quarante fois vu le feuillage that he has so ill improv'd; and Par le
+Z�phyr ressuscit�. promises to make a better Use of Du Printems j'ai mal
+profit�: the Summer of his Life. J'en ai regret; et de l'Et� Je veux
+faire un meilleur usage.
+
+J'apporte dans mon Hermitage, He says he brings to his Hermitage Un coeur
+des longtems rebut� a Heart which has been for a long Du prompt et
+funeste esclavage, Time the fatal Slave of foolish Fruit de la folle
+vanit�. Vanity; but that now he is become Paisan sans rusticit�, a
+Peasant without Clownishness, a Hermite sans patelinage, Hermit without
+Bigotry; and that Mon but est la tranquillit�. Tranquillity being his
+Aim, he Je veux pour unique partage, desires no other Portion in Life La
+paix d'un coeur qui se d�gage but the Peace of his Mind, Des filets de la
+Volupt�. disentangled from the Snares of Pleasure.
+
+L'incorruptible probit�, Here he declares, that De mes Ayeux noble
+Heritage, incorruptible Probity, the noble A la Cour ne m'a point
+quitt�. Inheritance he deriv'd from his Libre et franc, sans �tre
+sauvage, Ancestors, did not forsake him at Du Courtisan fourbe et volage
+Court, where being frank and free, L'exemple ne m'a point g�t�, without
+being rude, the Example of L'infatigable activit�, the crafty giddy
+Courtier had not tainted him. He observes the good Effect of his former
+Miscarriage; that it has made him active and indefatigable; and he hopes
+Reste d'un utile naufrage, from henceforwards to be happy in Mes Etudes,
+mon Jardinage, his Studies, in his Garden, and Un Repas sans art
+appret�, in a plain Diet dress'd by his D'une Epouse oeconome et sage
+frugal prudent Wife, whose good La belle humeur, le bon m�nage, Nature
+is equal to her [OE]conomy. Vont faire ma f�licit�.
+
+C'est dans ce Port, qu'en suret� In this Port, says he, my Vessel Ma
+Barque ne craint point l'orage. dreads no Storm. Let who will defy Qu'un
+autre � son tour emport�, the Rage of the Winds, while he Au gr� de sa
+cupidit�, coasts along the Shore, I laugh at Sur le sein de l'humide
+plage, his Presumption, and wish him a Des Vents ose affronter la rage;
+good Voyage; but reserve my Je ris de sa t�merit�, Courage for a more
+important Et lui souhaite un bon voyage. Passage, and approach with Je
+r�serve ma fermet� Boldness to the Gates of Eternity. Pour un plus
+important passage; Et je m'approche avec courage, Des portes de
+l'Eternit�.
+
+Je sai que la mortalit� The Poet concludes with a Du Genre humain est
+l'appanage: Reflection, that since Mortality Pourquoi seul serois-je
+except�? is intail'd upon all Mankind, why La vie est un pelerinage:
+should he alone think to be De son cours la rapidit�, exempted? And he
+says, that since Loin de m'alarmer, me soulage. Life is but a
+Pilgrimage, the De sa fin, quand je l'envisage, Rapidity of its Race,
+instead of L'infallible necessit� alarming, comforts him; and that Ne me
+sauroit faire d'outrage. the infallible Necessity of his Brulez de l'Or
+empaquet�, Death, when he seriously considers Il n'en perit que
+l'embalage: the Matter, is no more an Injury C'est tour. Un si leger
+dommage to him, than the burning of a Bale Devroit-il �tre regret�? of
+Gold is to the Metal, which remains intire, tho' the Case that contains
+it is consum'd; which, he adds, is too trifling a Loss to be regarded.
+
+
+[54] The King gave this young Duke, when he was but nine Years old, the
+Reversion of the Post of Great Admiral, for a New-Year's Gift, on the
+first of _January_ 1734. He is handsome, well-set, all Life and Spirit,
+and gives very fair Hopes of being a great Man.
+
+[55] As soon as he arrived, the Place _de Vendosme_, or the Square of
+_Lewis le Grand_, where M. _Daguesseau_ liv'd, was set apart for the
+Stock-jobbing Trade, which was before carried on in the Street
+_Quinquempoix_; and one Morning, a Paper was found at the Chancellor's
+Door, with these Words, _Et homo factus est, & habitabit cum nobis_.
+
+[56] He is actually join'd in the Administration with the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, who was very glad to nominate a Person for his Coadjutor.
+
+[57] He died some time ago at _Paris_, very much lamented by all that
+knew him.
+
+[58] The present Archbishop of _Ambrun_, famous for his Zeal for the
+Constitution, for the Persecution of the Bishop of _Senez_, and for his
+little Council at _Ambrun_.
+
+[59] He died at _Maestricht_ in the Year 1734, a Cornet in the Regiment
+of the Prince of _Orange-Friseland_. But Mr. _Law_ has left an amiable
+Daughter, who has had a fine Education, and married to Lord
+_Wallingford_, Son to the Earl of _Banbury_.
+
+[60] These Verses are not in the first Edition of these Memoirs, but are
+added, by the Bookseller, to the second.
+
+[61] _James Nompar_ of _Caument_, Duke _de la Force_, an assiduous
+humble Servant of Mr. _Law_, and who, by his Management, during the
+_Missisippi_ Scheme, drew a great many Pasquinades upon himself, of
+which this is not the severest.
+
+[62] The Abb� _Terrasson_, who wrote in Favour of the Scheme.
+
+[63] _Law_ had three Cocks for his Arms.
+
+[64] As these Lines will not admit of a Version to the Satisfaction of
+an _English_ Reader, 'tis sufficient to acquaint him, that they are a
+Satire upon the Humour which prevail'd at that Time, among People of all
+Ranks, from the Duke to his Scullion, to be Adventurers in Mr. _Law_'s
+Scheme; a Madness which was contemporary, and equally mischievous with
+the Delusion that was so predominant in our own Country, in that fatal
+Year of 1720, when so many People were, as we may term it, cast away in
+the _South-Sea_, and the lesser Whirlpools, call'd _Bubbles_, of which
+there was almost an infinite Number.
+
+[65] This, with the Calculation annexed to it, is an Addition by the
+Editor, to the second Edition, which was not in the first Edition of
+these Memoirs.
+
+[66] There was a Label affixed to the Gate of the _Palais_ Royal, with
+these Words, _Esurientes implevit bonis, & Divites dimisit inanes_, i.
+e. The Hungry he hath fill'd with good Things, but the Rich he hath sent
+empty away.
+
+[67] He was of the _Lorain_ Family, and was succeeded in his Office of
+Master of the Horse by his Son Prince _Charles_.
+
+[68] The King of _France_ having declar'd War against the Emperor in
+1733, in Conjunction with the Kings of _Spain_ and _Sardinia_, his
+Majesty gave the Marshal _de Villars_ the Command of his Army in
+_Italy_; to which Country he repair'd after the Conquest of the
+_Milanese_ had been very far advanc'd. He took _Pizzighitone_; but the
+Imperial Army being at length form'd, the Count _de Merci_, who
+commanded it, having taken the Field with it on a sudden, by passing the
+_Po_, made so many Motions, that the old Marshal, being forc'd to be
+_every-where_, according to his old Phrase, fell sick upon it, and was
+oblig'd to leave the Army. Some do not stick to say, that he had Orders
+for it from Court, where his Conduct was not approv'd: Be this as it
+will, his Distemper growing worse upon his Arrival at _Turin_, he died
+there the 17th of _June_ 1734, in the 84th Year of his Age, in the same
+Room, as 'tis said, where he was born, his Father the Marquis _de
+Villars_ being then there by Order of the King. In 1702 he married
+_Joanna-Angelica Roque de Varengeville_, whose Father was the King's
+Ambassador at _Venice_. The Family of _Villars_ is originally of
+_Lyons_, and first began to be distinguish'd in the Person of _Claude de
+Villars_, Lord of _Chapelle_, and _Masclas_, second Son to _Francis de
+Villars_, born about _Ann._ 1516. The Marshal was to the last a Man of
+uncommon Gaiety and Gallantry; for whether Fighting or Dancing, he
+appear'd with the same Vivacity and good Humour, and seem'd an Enemy to
+none except the Jesuits. What did not consist with such a Temper, was
+his Love of Money; and he inrich'd himself too much by the Spoils of
+War, and the Contributions he used to raise for Safe-guards, _&c._ But
+as for his Soldier-like Character, this one Story of him may suffice; In
+1702 the Marshal order'd his Army to pass the _Rhine_ at _Haguenau_, the
+same Night that he invited several Gentlemen and ladies to a Ball, where
+he danc'd till two o'Clock in the Morning, and then mounted his Horse
+unobserv'd, and follow'd his Army; with which he surprised the Prince of
+_Baden_, and fought a Battle by the Time the Ball was broke up; for
+which Action the King gave him the Marshal's Batoon. The Conquests of
+_Milan_ and other Places in _Italy_, which he made in 1733, were
+accompany'd also with Dancing and Balls; but Age and Infirmities, at
+last, made a Conquest of him. His Memory and his Judgment so fail'd him,
+that he became troublesome to the Army; but his fighting Humour still
+prevail'd, and he would have endanger'd all, had not the King of
+Sardinia prevail'd on the King of _France_ to recall him. However, the
+King of _Sardinia_ took Leave of him in the Field with great Civility,
+and at his Arrival at _Turin_, where he fell ill of a Dysentery,
+accompany'd with a Fever, of which he died, he was receiv'd very
+graciously by the late Queen, who presented him with a Diamond Sword,
+valued at 300 Pistoles.
+
+The following Sonnet was presented to the Marshal, when he set out for
+_Italy_.
+
+_Villars, tes grands Exploits qui sauverent la France, Dans les Siecles
+futurs t'immortaliseront. La Paix fut le doux fruit de ta haute
+prudence; Mais de nouveaux Lauriers doivent ceindre ton front._
+
+_Le Pere de ton Roi, l'Espagne & le Pi�mont, Sur toi seul aujourd'hui
+fondent leurs Esperances. Arme ton bras vainquer, cours venger leur
+affront; L'Allemand pourra-i-il soutenir ta pr�sence?_
+
+_Les grands Coeurs en tout tems conservent leur valeur, L'Age respecte en
+eux leur pr�miere vigueur, Ils savent s'affranchir des Loix de la
+Nature:_
+
+_Semblables aux Lauriers que leur main va cueillir, Qui des ans, des
+saisons ne craiguent point l'injure, Les H�ros ont le droit le ne jamais
+vieillir._
+
+i. e.
+
+_+Villars+, thy great Exploits, which sav'd all +France+, In future Ages
+will immortalise thee. The Peace was the kind Product of thy great
+Wisdom; But new Laurels are still to deck thy Brow._
+
+_The Father of thy King, +Spain+, and +Piedmont+ too, Upon thee alone do
+now found all their Hopes. Haste with thy conqu'ring Arm their Quarrel
+to avenge; Will +Germany+ be able to withstand thy Presence?_
+
+_Great Souls always retain their Valour; To their former Vigour Age
+itself pays a Respect; They can shake off the Yoke of Nature's Laws._
+
+_Like to the Laurels gather'd by their Hands, Which are Proof against
+the Injuries of Years and Seasons, Heroes never stoop to old Age._
+
+[69] By Mrs. _Arabella Churchill_, Sister to the late Duke of
+_Marlborough_.
+
+[70] The King, having appointed the Marshal _de Villars_ to command in
+_Italy_, thought fit to send the Marshal _de Berwic_ to oppose Prince
+_Eugene_, whom the Emperor had nominated for the Command on the _Rhine_.
+He began the Siege of _Philipsburg_; but on the first of _June_, O. S.
+1734, as he went to take a View of the Trenches, he was kill'd with a
+Cannon Ball between his two Grandsons. He is succeeded in all his Titles
+by his Son the Duke _de Liria_, now Duke of _Berwic_, _&c._ who has been
+lately at the Court of _Naples_.
+
+It will be doing no Dishonour to the Marshal, to say he made War his
+Trade, which he studied with an unwearied Application; and as he never
+wanted Courage, so none had more military Knowledge. Having consider'd
+War as a Science, he left little to Chance, or even Bravery; but
+depended upon Skill and Discipline, which was the Thing that gain'd him
+the Battle of _Almanza_. As he was so regular and mechanical a Warrior,
+he was himself the Life and Soul of his Army, not as he was belov'd, but
+as he was much fear'd by his Soldiers, whom he never spar'd, and least
+of all, his own Countrymen, that came to serve in _France_. He was
+reserved even to his General Officers, rarely consulting them, nor so
+much as communicating the Orders he had receiv'd, or the Designs he had
+projected, but as they had their own Parts to execute in them. Tho' he
+was the best regular General of his Time, yet he was the least
+enterprizing one. He was never a great Favourite at the Court of
+_France_, which is something to be wonder'd at, considering the Use he
+was made of upon every Occasion; for as a Soldier of Fortune, he had no
+Obligations but for his Appointments; and yet attach'd himself to
+_France_ preferably to any other Nation. As he was bred up in the War
+against the _English_, his Enmity to them became a second Nature, which
+is suppos'd to be the Reason that he never did one of that Nation any
+Service, beside those of his own Family. As the Marshal took care to be
+obey'd by the Officers and Soldiers of the Armies he commanded, he was
+always obsequious himself to the Orders of the Court, of which there
+needs no other Proof, than the Instance above-mention'd; when he
+appear'd in Arms against _Spain_ with Alacrity, after he had receiv'd
+the highest Honours from King _Philip_.
+
+He had the Title of Duke of _Berwic_, and likewise the Garter conferr'd
+on him by King _James_. He was born in 1671, so that when he died, he
+was sixty-three Years of Age.
+
+[71] The Family of _Estr�es_, originally of _Picardy_, was in Possession
+of the Dignities of the Crown before _Gabriella_; for her Grandfather
+was Great Master of the Artillery of _France_.
+
+[72] This is the common Name in _Italy_ for Interpreters or Expounders
+of Antiquities.
+
+[73] Here should have been added, _of the Poet_ Paul Scarron. She was
+the Daughter of _Constans d'Aubigny_, Baron of _Surincan_, and of _Joan
+de Cardillac_. _Charles d'Aubigny_, Governor of _Berry_, and Knight of
+the King's Orders, who died in 1703, was her Brother. Her Grandfather
+was _Theodore Agrippa d'Aubigny_, Admiral of _Bretagne_ and _Guienne_,
+celebrated for his Zeal for the Protestant Religion, and Author of a
+_History of his own Time_, of the _Confession_ of _Saney_, and of the
+Baron _de Faneste_. Every body knows, that the Attachment of his Widow
+_Scarron_ to Madame _de Montespan_, made her Way to _Lewis_ XIV. who was
+so pleas'd with her Humour, that she continued in the highest Favour
+till that Monarch's Death; and enjoy'd a Pension of 50,000 Livres, which
+was punctually paid her by _Lewis_ XV. every Year as long as she liv'd.
+After her Death, the Duke de _Noailles_ became Marquis _de Maintenon_ in
+Right of his Wife.
+
+[74] This alludes to a Joke of the President _de Harlai_, who when he
+was accosted by the Comedians, in the Name of their _Troop_, which that
+worthy Gentleman never car'd for, especially since _Tartuffe_, and the
+Comedians saying to him, _My Lord, the_ Company _of Comedians_, &c. The
+President made Answer, _Gentlemen_, the Troop _of the Parliament_, &c.
+
+[75] The Author refers here to the Works directed by Mr. BENSON, one of
+the present Auditors of the Imprest (for which see p. 67. of the First
+Volume of these Memoirs).
+
+[76] The Bottle called the Holy Phial, is kept at _Rheims_, in the Tomb
+of St. _Remy_, in the Church of that Name. It has not been filled since
+the Coronation of _Clovis_, when 'tis said this Phial was brought from
+Heaven, with the Oil with which that first Christian King of _France_
+was consecrated; and the Frier who shews it at _Rheims_, says very
+seriously, That when the King is sick, it dries away; so that when he
+dies, there is not a Drop left in the Bottle; but that as soon as his
+Successor is proclaimed, it fills again of its own Accord. I tell you no
+more than what I heard with my own Ears, and tho' I could not help
+smiling at it, the Frier was not angry. The Liquefaction of this Oil is
+altogether as miraculous as that of St. _Januarius_'s Blood at _Naples_.
+
+[77] The Abb� _de Vayrac_ was of a good Family in _Guienne_, and had all
+the Vivacity natural to that Province, which stood him in the stead of
+Wit; but it was of the abusive Kind. If ever an Author was a Plagiary,
+he was. He published a _State_ of _Spain_, and a _State_ of the Empire;
+which last brought him under an ignominious Sentence of the Court of
+_Vienna_. He had also composed a History of _Portugal_, which he could
+not obtain a Licence for Printing, because it appear'd that he had paid
+greater Compliments in it to the _Portuguese_, than to the _French_. He
+died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, as he returned from a Journey he
+had made to _Holland_.
+
+[78] In 1643.
+
+[79] This famous Counsellor was restor'd not long after, at the pressing
+Instances of his Brethren, and has merited the Elogiums of the Minister
+himself, as well as of all _France_.
+
+[80] _Pucelage_ is the _French_ Word for _Virginity_.
+
+[81] Neither was he included in the Promotion of the four Marshals of
+_France_, which the King made in 1734, tho' he had served with great
+Bravery ever since the Beginning of the last War between _France_ and
+_Germany_.
+
+[82] This Minister pleases them to Perfection. They all like his
+Behaviour, and the Diligence with which he dispatches Business. In a
+Word, he is beloved and adored.
+
+[83] In _November_ 1736, she was delivered of a Son.
+
+[84] Prince _Christian_ II. Son of the Prince _de la Tour_. He resigned
+his Canonship of Cologn, on purpose to serve in the Emperor's Army.
+
+[85] The Marshal _de Zumjungen_ dy'd the 25th of _August_ 1732. The
+Count _de Wurmbrand_ commanded till another was appointed.
+
+[86] _Gand_ signifies _Ghent_ in the _German_, and _Glove_ in the
+_English_.
+
+[87] He is the Great Great Grandson of Prince _Maurice_, by the Lady _de
+Malines_.
+
+[88] The Emperor lately appointed him to relieve the Count _de Sastago_,
+Viceroy of _Sicily_, at the Time that Don _Carlos_, King of _Naples_,
+went to make a Descent upon _Sicily_, with twenty thousand Men, under
+the Command of the Count _de Montemar_, Duke of _Bitonto_.
+
+[89] M. _d'Amerongen_, who is descended of one of the best Families in
+the Province of _Utrecht_, having lost his elder Brother, who was in the
+Regency, has quitted his Service to succeed him in the Government.
+
+[90] It was burnt quite to the Ground in the Beginning of the Year 1734.
+
+[91] VOL. I. LETTER V.
+
+[92] He succeeded _Francis Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, Elector of _Mentz_, who
+was chose Grand Master the 12th of _July_ 1694, In the Room of his
+Brother, _Lewis Anthony_ of _Neubourg_; and he is the fourteenth Grand
+Master since the Defection of _Prussia_, formerly the Seat of this
+Order, which has existed ever since the Year 1190; when it was
+instituted in the Holy Land, by _Henry_ King of _Jerusalem_. A Duke of
+_Masovia_, having invited to his House _Herman de Salsza_, the fourth
+Grand Master of the new Order, chose in 1210, he gave him, and his
+Knights, Lands upon the Frontiers of _Prussia_; the Inhabitants whereof
+being _Pagans_, did great Mischief to his Subjects, and he promised to
+leave them all the Lands that they conquered from those People, which
+the Emperor and the Pope confirmed. Before the Year 1250, they took
+_Prussia_, _Courland_, and a Part of _Livonia_; and put all the _Pagans_
+to Death that refused to turn Christian. The _Teutonic_ Knights, being
+driven out of the Holy Land, by the taking of _Acre_, went and
+established the principal House of their Order at _Marpurg_, in the
+Beginning of the fourteenth Century; from whence they transferred it to
+_Marienbourg_ in _Prussia_. The Order made such a rapid Progress, that
+in the Beginning of the following Century, it was in a Condition to
+oppose _Jagellon_, King of _Poland_, with an Army of eighty-three
+thousand Men; which that Prince, _Anno_ 1410, cut in Pieces. After that
+time the Order was scarce ever at Peace, but was always at Variance,
+either with the _Poles_, or the _Lithuanians_, or with the _Russians_,
+or with its own Subjects; till it was obliged to make a dishonourable
+Peace in 1446, with _Casimir_ King of _Poland_. The Grand Masters, from
+that Time to 1510, when _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_ was chose Grand
+Master, could not repair their Losses. The latter having embraced the
+Protestant Religion, made a Bargain in 1515, with the King of _Poland_,
+and yielded all _Russia_ to him, on Condition of holding of him in Fee,
+what was afterwards called _Ducal Prussia_, or _Brandenbourg Prussia_,
+which now forms the Kingdom of _Prussia_; and the rest was incorporated
+with _Poland_, and forms the Palatinates of _Culm_, _Marienbourg_, _&c._
+Thus were the _Teutonic_ Knights obliged to retire to _Germany_, where
+their Order is shared into twelve Provinces, each of which has its
+particular Commandeurs; and their oldest Commandeur is called the
+Provincial Commandeur. These twelve Commandeurs depend on the Grand
+Master, and have a Right to chuse him. The Grand Master's Residence is
+at _Marien-shal_ in Franconia, and his Revenue about twenty thousand
+Crowns. 'Tis said, the Order does not yet despair, that some Day or
+other, it will be able to recover its lost Dominions.
+
+[93] He is dead.
+
+[94] He was Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, Bishop of
+_Strasbourg_, _Halberstadt_, _Passau_, _Olenitz_ and _Breslaw_; Abbot of
+_Hirchsfeldt_, _Murbach_ and _Luders_.
+
+[95] Nevertheless, he was disgrac'd in 1733, for a very trifling Cause,
+which made the Count _de la Lippe_, also, lose all his Employments; and
+his own Disgrace has been attended with that of his whole Family, and
+with great Alterations at the Elector's Court, where the Count _de
+Hohen-Zollern_ is now Grand Master of the Houshold, and First Minister;
+and the Baron _de Hornstein_ Great Chamberlain.
+
+[96] He was scarce twenty-eight Years of Age.
+
+[97] The Baron _de Roll_ has succeeded him in his Place.
+
+[98] The Count, who is a Lover of the Sciences, intends to make a
+_Lycaum_ of his Castle, and a little _Athens_ of his Town. He begins by
+forming a numerous Library, and longs to get the Learned about him. But
+the main Point is to make a good Choice of them; and the first Choice
+which the Count has made of a Man who has already engrossed his Favour,
+does not promise well for the future.
+
+[99] He died in 1734.
+
+[100] On the Road, two Leagues from _Cleves_, there's the Palace of
+_Meiland_, where the King of _Prussia_ resided at the Beginning of the
+Illness which he contracted in 1734, as he returned from the Imperial
+Army on the _Rhine_.
+
+[101] The Name of this Prelate was _Barkman Wuytiers_. He died in 1733,
+at no very great Age, with the Character of a Man of the strictest
+Virtue. The Court of _Rome_, and the _Jesuits_, conceiv'd great Hopes
+after his Death. The latter, after having been banished out of the
+United Provinces by very severe Laws; employed the Mediation of a
+certain Court to succeed in their Design of getting an Apostolical Vicar
+accepted in the Place of the Archbishop of _Utrecht_; but this Design,
+which was look'd upon as dangerous to the Liberty of the Republic,
+miscarry'd, and the Deceased was succeeded by _Theodore van der Kroon_.
+
+[102] What is said throughout this Article, of their Manner of living,
+must be understood only of the common People, and not of Persons of any
+distinguished Rank, nor even of the Merchants.
+
+[103] As there is no Dignity superior to that of the Burgomaster, they
+who attain to it succeed one another in the several Functions, without
+passing to other Employments: They are the Members of the Council, who
+are sent to the College of Counsellor-Deputies, or who fill the Posts of
+Treasurers, _&c._ But the Burgomasters are they who go to the Assemblies
+of the States of the Province, with the Pensionary or Syndic of the
+City, who is the Spokesman.
+
+[104] He is since dead.
+
+[105] This Minister was succeeded in 1734, by the Count _d'Uhlefeld_,
+Son to the Lady who has the chief Direction of the Houshold to the
+Archduchess, Governess of the _Austrian Netherlands_. He is come to a
+Post which was so well fill'd before, in a very difficult Juncture,
+which has given him an Opportunity to discover the great Talents he has
+for Negotiation. As his Family is one of the best regulated, so it may
+be said to be one of the most magnificent. The Count _de Sinzendorff_
+died suddenly about the End of _September, 1734_, at the Seat of the
+Count _d'Asperen_, at the very Instant when he was preparing to return
+to _Vienna_.
+
+[106] These Differences were indeed adjusted during the Time that M. _de
+Masch_ resided here with a Ministerial Character; but he had no Hand in
+the Accommodation, it being negotiated only by M. _Luiscius_ the King's
+Resident, and M. _Duncan_, the Prince of _Orange_'s Privy-Counsellor, or
+Major-Domo.
+
+[107] Upon the Death of the King of _Poland_, he was confirmed by the
+new Elector of _Saxony_.
+
+[108] M. _Preys_. He has resided at the _Hague_ for several Years, and
+was here during the Time of the Ambassador _Palmquist_, whom he
+Succeeded. He is a Minister of consummate Knowledge in Affairs, and is
+consulted by others of a more modern Standing, both with Pleasure and
+Profit.
+
+[109] M. _Greys_ has for several Years had the Care, as Envoy
+Extraordinary, of the King of Denmark's Interests with the States
+General. He was bred up to be a Minister at the Altar, but had more
+Inclination to be a Minister of the Cabinet, in which he succeeded, and
+is very much esteem'd, but sees very little Company.
+
+[110] This able Minister died in _December, 1736_.
+
+[111] M. _de Keppel_ married the Widow of the late Count _de Welderen_,
+one of the greatest Men of this Republic, who left three Sons and five
+Daughters, that are the Ornament of the Nobility of _Guelderland_, and
+the Darlings of the _Hague_, where Foreigners have an easy and agreeable
+Access to this Lady's House. M. _de Keppel_, one of the finest Gentlemen
+of his Time, and one of the bravest Officers of the State, died in 1733,
+leaving only one Son, who is an Officer in the Horse Guards.
+
+[112] The good Lady died of the Small Pox in 1735 in a very advanced
+Age. Tho' she had made a Profession of Devotion for a certain time, she
+had not intirely lost her Taste for Gallantry, in which she certainly
+out-stripped the Lady _Mazarine_; for she declared herself, that it
+would be more easy to number the Shells upon the Shore at _Scheveling_,
+than her Adventures of Gallantry. She never missed her Aim but at one
+Man, and that was King _Augustus_. She did all she could to engage his
+Caresses, if not his Affection, but without Success; and every body
+knows the Adventure of my Lord _Raby_, who having an Amour with the
+Countess at _Berlin_, surprised her with King _Augustus_ striving to get
+loose from her close Embraces. Nor is this a Wonder; for tho' the King
+of _Poland_ did not want Gallantry, yet he was for a Woman of some
+Politeness, of which the Countess had no Share; for being the Daughter
+of a Waterman at _Emmeris_, she had not the completed Education. She had
+Beauty indeed, but was in every other respect a coarse Lady.
+Nevertheless, during her Residence at the _Hague_, the Youth who had
+nothing else to employ their Time, constantly reported to her House, and
+among these she had always some favourite Spark. Every body knows her
+Intrigues with the famous Count _de F----_; and her Last Will and
+Testament has render'd several others immortal. You will be surprised to
+know the End of this Woman, who had been so much talked of, who had
+regaled so many People in her Time, and to whom every body had easy
+Access. She dies, is immediately removed out of her Chamber, and put
+into a Coffin in the Entry of her House, which is sealed up, and she is
+interred without one of her ungrateful Favourites vouchsafing to attend
+her Funeral, or indeed any body but the Bearers, and a few Neighbours,
+who were insulted by the Mob.
+
+[113] The Issue of this Dispute betwixt the Jew and the Anabaptist has
+been, that the latter has lost the Day, the Comedians being gone. The
+victorious Jew has hit upon an Expedient to metamorphose his future
+Opera into a public Concert, which he gives every _Monday_ in the
+Afternoon, where one sees all the People of Fashion of both Sexes; and
+there they sing Opera Acts, and the finest _French_ Cantatas.
+
+[114] Of the latter, there died a Baron in _December_, 1736, who was one
+of the principal Men, and held the greatest Offices of any in the
+Republic, next to the Grand Pensionary _Slingeland_, whom he survived
+but a few Days.
+
+[115] M. _de Wassenaar-Twickel_, a Name which he derives from a fine
+Estate in the Province of _Over-Yssel_, of which he is Deputy.
+
+[116] _William Charles Henry Friso_, Prince of _Orange_, was married
+_March_ 14. 1734. to the Princess Royal of _Great Britain_.
+
+[117] The Count _d'Auverquerque_ died Velt-Marshal of the Republic,
+about the End of the Campaign of 1708.
+
+[118] As the History of this extraordinary Man came to the Hands of the
+Bookseller since the Publication of the first Edition, he thought he
+should do a Pleasure to the Public, by inserting it in this.
+
+[119] He was executed in _July_, 1734.
+
+[120] Or the _Palace of Orange_ in the Wood at the _Hague_. It was
+yielded to the Prince of _Orange_ by his Treaty of Partition with the
+King of _Prussia_.
+
+[121] _Margaret_, Daughter of _Florence_ IV. Count of _Holland_. She was
+Countess of _Henneberg_.
+
+[122] This belongs also to the Prince of _Orange_.
+
+[123] This is an ignominious Punishment inflicted Abroad for such
+heinous Offences at deserve neither Banishment, nor Whipping, nor Death.
+The Criminal who suffers it, stands in a Shirt, with a Rope about the
+Neck, holding a burning Taper in one Hand, attended by the Executioner,
+and other inferior Officers of Justice, and in this Posture begs Pardon
+of the King, of Justice, and the Public, for the Offence committed.
+
+[124] This most Excellent Princess departed this Life the 20th of _Nov._
+1737, to the infinite Regret of the King and Kingdom.
+
+[125] His Governor is the Hon. _Stephen Poyntz_, Esq; and his Preceptor
+in the learned Languages _Jenkin Thomas Philips_, Esq; formerly
+Secretary to the Commissioners for the Fifty New Churches, and since
+preferr'd to be his Majesty's Historiographer.
+
+[126] Her Royal Highness, as is well known, is since married to the
+Prince of _Orange_.
+
+
+
+
+                        TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that
+remain, some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when
+they fall in the middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been
+moved. Footnotes are now immediately preceding this note. We have
+rendered consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or
+spacing of such pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context.
+We have corrected inconsistencies in the application of accents to
+the same word when repeated in the same grammatical context.
+Paragraph formatting has been made consistent. The publisher's
+inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been corrected.
+A table of contents has been added. 'OE' and 'oe' have replaced the
+respective ligatures.
+
+The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number
+represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext
+except for footnotes since they have been moved.
+
+    Page          Change
+
+      7  the Condu ctof[Conduct of] the Popes,
+      8  not a Man spoke a Work[Word].
+      9  in a Posture of Astonish mentat[Astonishment at] the Appearance
+     17  proclaimed Pope on _Wedcesday[Wednesday]_ the 12th
+     20  After this, th y[they] went all, both Cardinals and Prelates
+     87  {footnote} _Sebastian_ was Grandon[Grandson] of _John_ III.
+    110  intituled[intitled] Captain of the Appeals;
+    122  chief Lackeys of the Cardinals rideing[riding]
+    202  the famous Story of _Maria Aliacoque[Alacoque]_, a celebrated
+    208  as she allighted[alighted] from the Coach,
+    222  Assistance from the King his Maste[Master]:
+    225  {footnote} Et lui southaite[souhaite] un bon voyage.
+    229  intent upon carrrying[carrying] his Point,
+    232  Count _Sinzendorf's[Sinzendorff's]_ coming from _Vienna_
+    244  a Madness which was co-temporary[contemporary],
+    264  After her Death, the Duke de _Noalies[Noailles]_ became
+    292  General of the Coriers[Couriers], Posts and Relays
+    294  about their Master's Preeminency[Pre-eminency].
+    309  and lives very handsomly[handsomely],
+    309  but lives handsomly[handsomely] upon what he has
+    313  The Inhabitants have a livid unwholsome[unwholesome] Complexion.
+    351  His Disbursments[Disbursements] seem to me to be very moderate
+    359  _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Corregio[Correggio]_,
+    376  are commonly employed as Tresurers[Treasurers] of the City,
+    389  and the _Amsterdamers[Amsterdammers]_ themselves cannot
+    419  a young Man of an unblamable[unblameable] Behaviour;
+    425  of the _Franche Comte[Comt�]_. The Republic
+    443  that of being sollicited[solicited] by the Person in Disgrace
+  Index  _Churchil[Churchill], Arabella_, 257.
+  Index  Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gameing[Gaming],
+  Index  _Hagendorp[Hogendorp]_, M. 413.
+  Index  _Lewid'ors[Lewis d'Ors]_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants
+  Index  _Peyronie[Peyrome]_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+  Index  _Popes_, the Days on which he[the] Cardinals kiss
+  Index  _Rochebone[Rochebonne]_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+  Index  _Terasson[Terrasson]_, Abb�, 243.
+  Index  _Tintorit[Tintoret]_, Painter, 359.
+  Index  _Tourlane[Touraine], la_, 216.
+  Index  _Walpot[Walpol]_, Baron _de_, 350.
+  Index  His Conduct in the _Cevennios[Cevennois]_ and in
+  Index  _Wassienaurs[Wassenaars]_, of _Holland_, 412.
+  Index  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assasination[Assassination], 425.
+  Index  Disputes adjusted relateing[relating] to his Succession,
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von P�llnitz
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Vol. II, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz.
+    </title>
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
+       Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels From
+              Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland,
+              England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not
+              Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but
+              the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several
+              Courts.
+
+Author: Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2012 [EBook #38501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="center" style="width: 25em; margin: auto; border: solid 1px; padding: 1em;">
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated faithfully except as listed
+<a href="#Changes" name="Start" id="Start">here</a>.
+</div>
+
+<!--001.png-->
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;">
+<img src="images/i01.png" width="396" height="370" alt="Lestevenon de Berkenroode." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<!--003.png-->
+
+<h1>THE<br />
+<br />
+MEMOIRS<br />
+<br />
+OF<br />
+<br />
+<i>CHARLES-LEWIS</i>,<br />
+<br />
+Baron de <span class="smcap">Pollnitz</span>.
+</h1>
+
+<div class="c3">
+<br />BEING<br />
+<br />
+The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late <span class="smcap">Travels</span><br />
+from <i>Prussia</i> thro’
+</div>
+
+<div class="c3">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center"><i>GERMANY</i>,</td><td align="center">||</td><td align="center"> <i>FLANDERS</i>,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><i>ITALY</i>,</td><td align="center">||</td><td align="center"> <i>HOLLAND</i>,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><i>FRANCE</i>,</td><td align="center">||</td><td align="center"> <i>ENGLAND</i>, &amp;c.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<div class="c3">
+In LETTERS to his <span class="smcap">Friend</span>.<br />
+<br />
+Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE<br />
+of the Chief <span class="smcap">Cities</span> and <span class="smcap">Towns</span>;<br />
+<br />
+BUT<br />
+<br />
+The CHARACTERS of the <span class="smcap">Principal Persons</span><br />
+at the several COURTS.<br />
+<br />
+In TWO VOLUMES.<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap"><big>Vol. II.</big></span><br />
+<br />
+The <span class="smcap">Second Edition</span>, with <span class="smcap">Additions</span>.<br />
+<br />
+<i>LONDON</i>:<br />
+<br />
+Printed for <span class="smcap">Daniel Browne</span>, at the <i>Black-Swan</i>,<br />
+without <i>Temple-Bar</i>.<br />
+<span class="smcap">M.dcc.xxxix.</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<h2>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="center" style="width: 13em; margin: auto;">
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXVIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXIX</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXX</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXI</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXIV</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXV</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXVI</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXVII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXVIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XXXIX</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XL</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLI</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_261">261</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLIV</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLV</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_310">310</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLVI</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_325">325</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLVII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_337">337</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLVIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_348">348</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER XLIX</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_357">357</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER L</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_364">364</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER LI</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_384">384</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER LII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_394">394</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER LIII</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_430">430</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">LETTER LIV</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_449">449</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left">INDEX</span><span style="float: right"><a href="#Page_473">473</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="float: left"><a href="#FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</a></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--004.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; padding-top: 2em;">
+<img src="images/i001.png" width="400" height="151" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2 style="padding: 2em 0 2em 0;">
+MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de <span class="smcap">Pollnitz</span>.<br /><br />
+<small>In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. <i>L. C. D. S.</i></small></h2>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, July 30, 1730.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, that City which
+has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
+<i>Europe</i>: But don’t expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
+because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
+I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
+beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
+Ostentation of the <i>Italians</i> cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
+shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
+rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
+<!--005.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>described,
+that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
+Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Rome</span> is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
+That <span class="smcap">Rome</span> of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
+Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
+be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
+to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one’s first
+Entrance thro’ the Gate <i>del Popoli</i>, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
+with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
+the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
+and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
+Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
+When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv’d a Square of a
+triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate <i>del Popoli</i>,
+through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
+in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
+the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
+middle of the Square there’s a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
+Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
+by Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there’s
+a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
+worthy of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>: What follows appear’d to me to have the Air of a Village.
+The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
+consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
+the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
+Right-hand of
+the<!--006.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span>
+Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
+Hovels.</p>
+
+<p>From the Square <i>del Popoli</i>, I shall run through the three Streets which
+lead from thence to the chief Quarters of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. I shall begin with that in
+the Middle, which fronts the Gate. ’Tis called the Street <i>del Corso</i>,
+because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the <i>Barbary</i> Horses run
+Races, and where there is the <i>Pasciggio</i>, or Ring, frequented every Day
+by the Coaches. This Street runs thro’ almost all <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and has some fine
+Houses in it, particularly the Palaces <i>Ruspoli</i>, <i>Gicci</i>, <i>Carolis</i>,
+<i>Mancini</i>, <i>Pamphili</i>, and <i>Bolognetti</i>. It crosses the Squares of St.
+<i>Mark</i> and <i>Colonna</i>. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
+substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous <i>Antonine</i> Pillar,
+which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of <i>Antoninus the
+Pious</i>, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
+place to the Effigies of St. <i>Paul</i>. St. <i>Mark</i>’s Square is so called,
+because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
+it stands the Palace of <i>Venice</i>, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
+the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V.</p>
+
+<p>The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square <i>del Popoli</i>, is
+called <i>la Strada Ripetta</i>. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
+leading down to the <i>Tiber</i>, which are of a grand Design, and so
+contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
+the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
+Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The third Street, which ends in the Square of <i>Spain</i>, has also nothing in
+it worth seeing. To hear a <i>Roman</i> speak of the Square of <i>Spain</i>, one
+would<!--007.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span>
+think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
+less deserves that Character. ’Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
+both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of <i>Spain</i>,
+which is occupied by the Cardinal <i>Bentivoglio</i><a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, the Ambassador of that
+Crown, and the Palace <i>de Propaganda</i>, it has not one handsome House. In
+the Middle of it there’s a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
+in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
+Stair-case, which leads to the Church of <i>Trinity on the Mountain</i>,
+belonging to the <i>French Minims</i>. ’Twas made during the Pontificate of
+Pope <i>Innocent</i> XIII. of the Family of <i>Conti</i>, out of the Money which a
+rich <i>Frenchman</i> left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
+that no less than 60,000 <i>Roman</i> Crowns were expended in it; which, if
+true, ’twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
+perfectly <i>Gothic</i>, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
+Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
+<i>Romans</i> were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
+dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.</p>
+
+<p>The Square of <i>Spain</i>, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
+Place of Rendezvous for all the <i>Beau Monde</i> in the City. Here the Ladies,
+sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
+Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
+every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, mixed with Clouds of
+Dust; and
+one<!--008.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span>
+is not only pester’d with Beggars, but every Minute in
+Danger of being crush’d to pieces between the Coaches, which press
+forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
+how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
+for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
+rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount <i>Trinity</i>. There I have
+the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of <i>Spain</i>; I
+extend my View over all <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and even into the Country beyond it, and
+there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
+Wheel. ’Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are
+not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
+the Ladies Coaches.</p>
+
+<p>Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of <i>Spain</i>, and the seven Streets
+which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
+<i>Spanish</i> Ambassador, whither the <i>Sbirri</i> dare not pursue a Criminal, or
+to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
+Bravo’s, who, like the <i>Swiss</i> of the <i>Spanish</i> Minister, are very jealous
+of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
+This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
+it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
+Opportunity of finding Refuge; but ’tis a rare Income for the Bravo’s and
+their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
+Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.</p>
+
+<p>The Square of <i>Spain</i> leads me to give you some Account of the Square
+<i>Navona</i>, which, tho’ by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
+Length of it, may be numbered among
+the<!--009.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>
+finest Squares in the World. ’Tis
+adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
+of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
+of Pope <i>Innocent</i> X. of the Family of <i>Pamphili</i>, according to a Model by
+Signior <i>Lorenzo Bernini</i>, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
+this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
+Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
+it, and on the Top there’s an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
+which was formerly in the <i>Circus</i> of the Emperor <i>Antoninus Caracalla</i>.
+At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
+sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
+principal Rivers of the World, the <i>Ganges</i>, the <i>Nile</i>, the <i>Danube</i>, and
+<i>Rio de la Plata</i>, in the <i>West-Indies</i>. These four Statues, tho’ made by
+different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
+suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
+oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
+cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous <i>Michael Angelo Buonarota</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. <i>Agnes</i>,
+begun by <i>Innocent</i> X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes <i>Pamphili</i>.
+’Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. The Inside is
+an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
+Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
+belonging to Prince <i>Pamphili</i>, who lets it out to the Cardinal
+<i>Corsini</i><a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>. There’s a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
+Painting.</p>
+
+<!--010.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The <i>Pantheon</i>, commonly called the Church <i>de la Rotonda</i>, because of its
+round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, which has
+been well preserved. <i>Agrippa</i> caused this Temple to be built, with an
+Intention to dedicate it to <i>Augustus</i> his Father-in-Law; but he
+afterwards devoted it to <i>Jupiter Ultor</i>, or <i>the Avenger</i>. Pope
+<i>Boniface</i> I. or, as others say, <i>Boniface</i> IV. consecrated this Temple to
+the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
+the Title of <i>Sta. Maria ad Martyres</i>. Nothing is more Majestic than the
+Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
+Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
+the <i>Corinthian</i> Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
+an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
+The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
+Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
+heretofore covered with Brass, but <i>Urban</i> VIII. stripped the Church of
+that magnificent Covering, and employ’d the Brass partly on the High Altar
+of St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
+cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i>. The Pope who
+did this, being of the <i>Barberini</i> Family, gave Occasion to the <i>Romans</i>,
+who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
+the <i>Barberini</i> had done even more than the <i>Barbarians</i>; and really, it
+is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> the <i>Rotonda</i>
+was always spared.</p>
+
+<p>St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
+Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
+though there were no other Building in <span class="smcap">Rome</span> but
+this<!--011.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span>
+Church, it would be
+worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
+lies before this superb Pile, can’t but be admired by all that see it.
+Pope <i>Alexander</i> VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
+in Architecture, Signior <i>Lorenzo Bernini</i>. The Form of this Area is
+round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
+which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
+an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
+holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
+continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
+lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
+runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
+Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V. who
+may justly be reckoned the Restorer of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, on account of the Ornaments
+with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
+’twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. <i>Peter</i>’s
+Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
+<i>Fontana</i>, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
+a Weight was raised to that Height. ’Tis said, that Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V.
+commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
+Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
+Workmens’ Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
+of the Architect; and as they knew that <i>Sixtus</i> would be obeyed, not a
+Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
+almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
+confounded<!--012.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span>
+<i>Fontana</i>, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
+Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
+Ropes. <i>Fontana</i> followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
+promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
+body cared to trust <i>Sixtus</i>; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
+and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
+including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. <i>Sixtus</i> V.
+caus’d some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
+at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
+that shou’d salute it, and at the same Time repeat three <i>Pater-nosters</i>,
+and as many <i>Ave Maries</i>.</p>
+
+<p>When you have passed over the great Square, there’s an Ascent of some
+Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
+before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
+<i>Corinthian</i> Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
+of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the <i>Mosaic</i> Taste, which
+form the Arms of <i>Paul</i> V. of the <i>Borghese</i> Family; the whole gilt all
+over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
+<i>Constantine</i> the Great, carved in Marble by <i>Bernini</i>, who has
+represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
+Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
+Portico, is <i>Charlemaign</i>’s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
+<i>Augustin Cornicchini</i>, a Native of <i>Peschia</i> in <i>Tuscany</i>; but ’tis not
+near so bold a Figure as that carved by <i>Bernini</i>. At the Entrance of the
+Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
+shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.</p>
+
+<!--013.png--><p><span class="pagenum">10</span></p>
+
+<p>I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. <i>Peter</i>’s did not strike
+me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
+Azure, but I was mistaken; tho’, after having examined Things closely, I
+was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
+High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
+Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
+Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
+Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
+Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
+naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
+none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
+his Holiness’s express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
+adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
+<i>Peter</i> and St. <i>Paul</i>. There’s a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
+of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
+surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
+which never cease to burn, except on <i>Good-friday</i>, when the Church is
+hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.</p>
+
+<p>At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. <i>Peter</i>’s Chair,
+a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
+Fathers of the Church, St. <i>Ambrose</i>, St. <i>Jerome</i>, St. <i>Augustine</i>, and
+St. <i>Gregory</i>, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
+raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
+which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
+Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of <i>Urban</i> VIII. on the Right Hand,
+has two admirable Statues of
+white<!--014.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span>
+Marble, representing two Virtues, of
+such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
+Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain <i>Spaniard</i> gave, in
+whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
+not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
+altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
+<i>Matilda</i>, and that of <i>Christina</i> Queen of <i>Sweden</i>, to whom the Popes
+granted Burial in St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, where, except the Successors of
+that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
+Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
+honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
+Head of her Army, against the Emperor <i>Henry</i> IV. the other even abdicated
+her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the <i>Roman</i> Religion.
+<i>Christina</i>’s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
+Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
+perfectly well executed.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ every thing in St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church is worthy of the particular
+Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
+the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
+than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
+that was ever done by the Ancients. ’Tis but a few Years that the Artists
+have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
+of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
+<i>Petronilla</i>, St. <i>Peter</i>’s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
+coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
+would swear ’twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
+Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
+extremely
+astringent.<!--015.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span>
+’Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
+is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
+design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
+grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
+their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
+on apace, be ever finished, St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church will be possessed of a
+Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.</p>
+
+<p>The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
+Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
+Ornaments. ’Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
+Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
+leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
+the Globe, which, ’tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
+<i>Peter</i>’s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
+by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.</p>
+
+<p>All the other Churches of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> are beautiful Piles, and ’tis certain that
+the least of ’em contains something that will entertain a curious
+Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
+are, St. <i>Paul</i>’s without <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, St. <i>John</i>’s <i>de Lateran</i>, St. <i>Mary
+Major</i>’s, the Churches of <i>Jesus</i>, St. <i>Ignatius</i>, St. <i>Philip de Neri</i>,
+our Lady’s of Victory, the Church of St. <i>Agnes</i>, and the Noviciate of the
+<i>Jesuits</i>.</p>
+
+<p>As to the Foundation of St. <i>Mary Major</i>’s Church, there is a Tradition,
+that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
+pray’d to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
+what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
+signified<!--016.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span>
+to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
+the Place which they would find cover’d next Day with Snow; a Thing the
+more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of <i>August</i>.
+But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
+Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. <i>Liberius</i> I. who next
+Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
+by <i>John</i> a Patrician, and a Senator of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and found that Spot of
+Ground where now stands the Church of St. <i>Mary Major</i>, covered with Snow.
+The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
+the <i>Liberian</i> Church, and also the Church of St. <i>Mary of the Manger</i>,
+because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
+last it was called St. <i>Mary Major</i>, because it is the biggest of those
+Churches in <span class="smcap">Rome</span> that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.</p>
+
+<p>I have been so long upon Churches, that ’tis high Time to shift the Scene.
+I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
+referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span> to another Opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
+warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
+have elected Cardinal <i>Corsini</i>. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
+chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i>
+was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
+account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal <i>Bentivoglio</i>, the
+Minister of <i>Spain</i>, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
+their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, ’tis the Opinion of many People,
+that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket
+at<!--017.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span>
+that Time, tho’ he
+had it at the Election of Pope <i>Conti</i>; because out of personal Pique to
+Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i> he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
+the House of <i>Bourbon</i>, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
+Cardinal <i>Bentivoglio</i> thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
+at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i> that Time,
+it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
+Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
+Will was this; <i>Bentivoglio</i> had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
+Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
+by Order of this very <i>Imperiali</i>, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
+<i>Ferrara</i>. Cardinal <i>Bentivoglio</i>, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
+as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
+the <i>Italians</i> seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
+on this: So that Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i> came short of the <i>Tiara</i>, merely
+for having done an Act of Justice.</p>
+
+<p>Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i> being thus set aside, <i>Corsini</i> was proposed for
+Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the <i>Germans</i>,
+pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
+Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. <i>Davia</i> was proposed,
+and would undoubtedly have been in St. <i>Peter</i>’s Chair, if Cardinal <i>de
+Bissi</i>, a <i>Frenchman</i>, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
+was a <i>Jansenist</i>. ’Tis true, that Cardinal <i>Davia</i> was never a great
+Friend of the <i>Jesuits</i>, and that M. <i>Bissi</i> is a Man after their own
+Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the <i>French</i>
+Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won’t swear. Though, be it as it
+will, I think, if the Society were convinced that <i>Davia</i> was their Enemy,
+they did very wisely
+to<!--018.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span>
+set him aside. During this, Cardinal <i>Corsini</i>,
+who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
+of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
+to the Grand Princess <i>Violante</i>, desiring the former to intercede for him
+directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the <i>Bavarian</i> Family; to
+the end that Family might do him good Offices at <i>Vienna</i>. His Wishes were
+accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
+consent to the Election of <i>Corsini</i>, and he obtained for Answer, that his
+Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. <i>Corsini</i>
+having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
+the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain <i>Albano</i>, the Head of the
+Cardinals, made by <i>Clement</i> XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
+Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal <i>Barberini</i>
+hearing that <i>Corsini</i> was going to be proposed a second time, declared
+openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
+Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
+apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
+<i>Cienfuegos</i>, who was very earnest for the Election of <i>Colonna</i>, or some
+other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
+to the Cardinal <i>Cienfuegos</i>, and proposed the Choice of <i>Corsini</i> to him;
+and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
+conjured him for God’s sake not to oppose the said Cardinal’s Advancement.
+‘You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
+end your Days here? ’Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
+have you to say against <i>Corsini</i>? He is old, and, according to the Course
+of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
+the
+Factions<!--019.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span>
+that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
+the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can’t be long in his
+Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
+obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
+consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.’ The Cardinal
+Chamberlain water’d his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
+Man can weep when he will. This so moved <i>Cienfuegos</i>, who is the
+best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
+of <i>Corsini</i>. But then the <i>French</i> feigned they would not be for him any
+longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the <i>Germans</i> espousing the Man
+whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
+length they consented, saying, that since the <i>Germans</i> made the Pope,
+they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
+Cardinal <i>Banchieri</i>, who had been Vice-Legat at <i>Avignon</i>, to be
+Secretary of State. The Cardinal <i>Cienfuegos</i>, who was puffed up with the
+Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
+<i>French</i> in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
+Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the <i>Germans</i> were
+bubbled in this Affair, and that the <i>French</i> made both the Pope and the
+Minister. Whether ’twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
+Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of <i>Jehosaphat</i>;
+yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of <i>Italy</i>, we are
+even more hated there than the <i>French</i> ever were, and ’tis certain that
+they were hated there with a Vengeance. ’Tis very probable, therefore,
+that the <i>Italian</i> Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
+Pope
+that<!--020.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span>
+was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
+of the new Pope’s Exaltation, all the City of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> thought the Cardinal
+<i>Cienfuegos</i> Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
+Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
+exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
+Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.</p>
+
+<p>Cardinal <i>Corsini</i> was proclaimed Pope on <i>Wednesday</i> the 12th of <i>July</i>,
+in the Morning. He took the Name of <i>Clement</i> XII. in Honour to the Memory
+of <i>Clement</i> XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
+Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
+<i>Romans</i> could not get a <i>Roman</i> for their Pope, they are not sorry that
+he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
+good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
+he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.</p>
+
+<p>In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, <i>Clement</i> XII.
+received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
+here styled the <i>King</i> and <i>Queen</i> of <i>England</i>. After he had conversed a
+while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope <i>Sixtus</i>, and
+placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
+of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
+down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
+after the other, and gave them the <i>Pax</i> to kiss. ’Tis only upon that Day
+and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope’s Foot; for
+afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
+the Pope was seated in his Chair of <span class="smcap">Procession</span>, which is a great
+Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet,
+richly<!--021.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span>
+embroidered with Gold; and
+then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry’d him thro’ the
+great Stair-case to St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church. When they came before the Chapel
+of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
+he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
+Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
+where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
+Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in <i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel;
+and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
+his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
+where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
+<i>Roman</i> Princes, and of all the Quality of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>; and in the Evening, there
+were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
+Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
+giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
+Recommendation of the <i>French</i>, he appointed the Cardinal <i>Banchieri</i>
+Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, <i>Clement</i> XII. had a
+long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
+Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>
+about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
+him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
+Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the <i>Romans</i> seemed to approve of
+the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
+they should have no better
+Treatment<!--022.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span>
+from the <i>Florentines</i>, than they
+had from the <i>Beneventines</i>, under the last Pontificate. ‘The <i>Romans</i>,’
+said the Pope, ‘are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
+Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don’t win the Love of my
+Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.’ Then
+turning about to his Nephew the Marquis <i>Neri Corsini</i>, now a Cardinal,
+whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; ‘I exhort you, Nephew,
+<i>said he</i>, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
+Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
+rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
+may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
+it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
+want Friends.’ ’Twas with such Sentiments as these, that <i>Clement</i> XII.
+ascended the Throne of St. <i>Peter</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of <i>July</i>, and I
+can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
+who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
+in his <i>Pontificalibus</i>, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
+Procession to <i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
+then was carried thro’ the grand Stair-case under St. <i>Peter</i>’s Portico,
+where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. <i>Peter</i>’s Chapter to
+kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
+the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
+kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
+the Chapel of St. <i>Gregory</i> the Great, where he made another short Prayer
+prostrate before the Altar. Then he was
+placed<!--023.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span>
+in a Throne on the
+Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
+on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a <i>Tercet</i>,
+they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
+white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
+they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
+with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
+Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
+Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
+his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
+a plenary Indulgence <i>in articulo mortis</i>. He afterwards descended from
+his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
+before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
+his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
+he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
+him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
+<i>Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi</i>: i. e. <i>Holy Father! so passeth
+away the Glory of the World</i>. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
+Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope’s Heart; for he
+lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
+When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
+deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
+of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
+him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
+Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
+<!--024.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span>erected
+at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
+upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
+Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of <i>England</i>,
+with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
+the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
+were the principal Ladies of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
+I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of <i>Waldeck</i>, who has been here
+these two Months.</p>
+
+<p>From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
+pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope’s
+Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
+Gospel were sung, both in <i>Greek</i> and <i>Latin</i>, by a <i>Greek</i> Bishop and a
+Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
+returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
+consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
+one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
+to a Custom, thro’ a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
+had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
+Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
+by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
+to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
+great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
+seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
+Mitre, and put on his <i>Tiara</i>, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
+Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
+People<!--025.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span>
+that were crowded in St. <i>Peter</i>’s Square, and the Streets that
+led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i> were
+fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
+their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
+placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
+dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
+Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
+were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play’d off at the Castle of
+St. <i>Angelo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
+seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. <i>Misson</i>, who, in his Account of the
+Pope’s Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
+Ceremonial of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
+that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope’s Throne is
+covered with precious Stones, tho’ I assure you, that there cannot be a
+greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
+Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
+august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, indeed, is
+hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but ’tis the
+very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. <i>Peter</i>’s Throne, upon
+this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can’t imagine where <i>Misson</i>
+could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
+affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
+has deviated from the Truth.</p>
+
+<p>The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown’d, was <i>Damasus</i> II. in the
+Year 1048. And <i>Urban</i> V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
+commonly<!--026.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span>
+called the <i>Tiara</i>; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
+<i>Jesus Christ</i> has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
+Reason, St. <i>Peter</i> was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
+Palace of the <i>Vatican</i>) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.</p>
+
+<p>Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the <i>Vatican</i>, and
+took up his Residence in the Palace of <i>Monte Cavallo</i>. The Holy Father
+marched out with a Pomp which pleased the <i>Romans</i>, who are naturally fond
+of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
+seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
+in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the <i>Roman</i> Nobility on Horseback,
+his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
+Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
+as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the <i>Romans</i>, when they saw
+<i>Clement</i> XII. remember’d that he was a <i>Florentine</i>; and there needed
+nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 205px;">
+<img src="images/i002.png" width="205" height="132" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--027.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, Sept. 10, 1730.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, as briefly as I
+traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
+Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
+that the Buildings which we <i>Ultramontains</i> think much to call Hotels, are
+here styled Palaces.</p>
+
+<p>I think, that the Pope’s two Palaces called the <i>Vatican</i> and
+<i>Monte-Cavallo</i> deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
+for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
+Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
+healthful Air in the City.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Vatican</i> is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
+and so close to St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
+its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don’t see any thing to be admired
+in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
+employed in it; but as to the Inside, ’tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
+help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
+the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of <i>Italy</i> seem to
+have strove to display the utmost of their Art: <i>Raphael</i> especially has
+done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
+of <i>Attila</i>, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.</p>
+
+<!--028.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
+Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
+by <i>Michael Angelo Buonorato</i>, who, ’tis said, represented all the Persons
+of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that ’twas impossible to mistake
+them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
+did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
+of Pope <i>Sixtus</i> IV. then in St. <i>Peter</i>’s Chair, finding himself among
+the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
+out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
+extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
+thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since ’twas his Misfortune
+to be in such Company, there he must stay.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Vatican</i> Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
+the World. ’Tis full of MSS. in the <i>Hebrew</i>, <i>Arabic</i>, <i>Greek</i>, <i>Latin</i>,
+and other Languages. Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
+best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
+<i>Heidelberg</i> Library, and that of <i>Christina</i> Queen of <i>Sweden</i>. The
+former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
+<i>Frederic</i> the Elector <i>Palatine</i>, King of <i>Bohemia</i>, when <i>Heidelberg</i>
+submitted to the Power of the House of <i>Austria</i>. The latter was purchased
+by the Pope from that Queen’s Heirs. The Building which contains this
+Library is worthy of the great <i>Sixtus</i> V. who caused it to be built from
+the very Foundation. ’Tis generally divided into two Parts, <i>viz.</i> the
+Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
+is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
+are there contained. <i>Sixtus</i> V.
+caused<!--029.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span>
+the whole Library to be painted,
+both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
+of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
+Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
+Compartments, the most memorable Actions of <i>Sixtus</i> V. the holding of
+sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
+ever since <i>Adam</i>, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
+Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
+<i>Sixtus</i> V. and the Doctors of the Church.</p>
+
+<p>The last Pope <i>Benedict</i> XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
+his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the <i>Vatican</i>. He thought
+it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of <i>Belvidero</i>,
+which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho’ it joins to the <i>Vatican</i>. And
+as ’twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
+if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
+the Neighbourhood of St. <i>Peter</i>; and therefore, on the Backside of the
+Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
+with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
+Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
+Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
+used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
+Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.</p>
+
+<p>I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
+touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
+most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
+<i>Peter</i>. Being born at <i>Rome</i>, of the illustrious Family of the <i>Ursini</i>,
+he entered very young into the Order of St. <i>Dominic</i>, and was
+made<!--030.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>
+a
+Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope <i>Clement</i> X. of the
+<i>Altieri</i> Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
+<i>Benevento</i>, of which he was Archbishop. ’Twas there that he heard of the
+Death of his Predecessor <i>Innocent</i> XIII. of the Family of <i>Conti</i>. When
+he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
+that he was fain to borrow of <i>Fini</i>, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
+the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
+at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
+Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
+at placing the <i>Tiara</i> upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
+enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
+were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal <i>Ursini</i>, they should
+give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
+however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
+Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
+they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
+<i>Ursini</i>, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
+<i>Pope</i>; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
+College. One <i>Coscia</i>, a <i>Neapolitan</i> Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
+for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
+Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
+State, and made him Archbishop of <i>Benevento</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had
+done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand
+Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he
+converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body
+groan’d;<!--031.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span>
+but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so
+byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even
+the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to
+the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he
+would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. <i>Coscia</i>
+confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. <i>They will accuse me of
+every thing that is ill</i>, said he to the Holy Father, <i>but God is my
+Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken
+me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too
+strict.</i> I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made
+his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his
+Good-nature, that he wept too.</p>
+
+<p>I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which
+however is firmly believed by all the People of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. Certain Cardinals
+represented to the Pope one Day, that <i>Coscia</i> was not only guilty of
+innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the
+World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he
+would inquire into the Matter, and punish <i>Coscia</i>, if what they alledged
+was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but <i>Coscia</i>
+easily brought himself off. He said, ’twas all Calumny; swore with Tears
+in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in
+Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his
+Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But <i>Coscia</i>, fearing lest the Pope
+should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing
+an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty
+<i>Valet de Chambre</i>, importing in Substance as follows: ‘Your Holiness
+being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>, that you will give
+Credit<!--032.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>
+to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, ’tis thought
+proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o’Clock, the
+Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an
+Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to
+the Cardinal’s Apartment, and peep thro’ the Key-hole.’ The Pope did not
+fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected,
+the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at
+Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he
+kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty
+Cardinal in this Posture, cry’d out to somebody that was with him, <i>Do but
+see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light!
+Would to God that all the Clergy were like him.</i> Then entring into the
+Cardinal’s Chamber, <i>Dear Coscia</i>, said he, embracing him, <i>They have
+accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to
+think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the
+Injury I have done you.</i> He afterwards joined with <i>Coscia</i> in reading the
+Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a
+Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of
+Hypocrites. But, to the Pope’s Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>
+was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him
+being <i>Beneventines</i>, and as cunning as <i>Coscia</i>, whose Creatures they
+were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal
+<i>Buoncompagno</i> say, <i>That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the
+Hands of the</i> Turks.</p>
+
+<p>This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave
+away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold
+all the Presents he received. He could
+never<!--033.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span>
+understand how a Piece of
+Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been
+told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from
+the Emperor of <i>China</i>, to his unworthy <i>Beneventines</i>, one of them
+offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred.
+Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the
+golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, ‘I am
+sorry I can’t let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but
+here’s one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not
+wrong them.’ Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the
+Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope.
+They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at
+their own Price, they sold afterwards in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and shared the Profit.</p>
+
+<p>At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> having
+complained to him that <i>Pharao</i> and <i>Basset</i> proved the Ruin of a great
+many People, he answered him smartly, <i>Alas! are not you the Governor?
+Send the Gamesters to the Gallies.</i> He never loved to talk of State
+Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he
+said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have
+any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put
+them back, tho’ perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long
+expired.</p>
+
+<p>This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst
+of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in
+the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry,
+would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him
+rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as ’twas possible for any mean
+Priest, and
+perhaps<!--034.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span>
+too humble for his Character. He went out every Day
+in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any
+Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, <i>viz.</i> the
+<i>Dominican</i>, to the Rules of which he always adher’d, and without any
+Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his <i>Swiss</i> Guards. If he
+happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his
+Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So
+much is enough for <i>Benedict</i> XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have
+been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now
+return to the <i>Vatican</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This Palace joins to the Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i>, which is the Citadel of
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent
+<i>Romans</i>, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought
+proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but,
+Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are
+the Masters. The Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i> is for Prisoners of State, and in
+it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are
+also kept the four Millions of <i>Roman</i> Crowns, which Pope <i>Sixtus</i> V.
+deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that
+they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the
+Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St.
+<i>Gregory the Great</i>, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard,
+to denote that God had stay’d the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of
+St. <i>Gregory</i>, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>,
+carried in Procession to St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church two Images of the Virgin,
+the one painted by St. <i>Luke</i>, and kept in the Church of St. <i>Mary Major</i>,
+the other, which appeared to St. <i>Galle</i>, and is worshipped in the Church
+of St. <i>Mary in Compitello</i>.</p>
+
+<!--035.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From the Castle of St. <i>Angelo</i> you will please to follow me to the Palace
+of <i>Monte Cavallo</i>, which is travelling from one End of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> to the other.
+<i>Gregory</i> XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes
+have carried it on. ’Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none
+of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed
+is well lodged. <i>Paul</i> V. of the <i>Borghese</i> Family, who, next to <i>Sixtus</i>
+V. was the Pope that has most embellished <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, has also most of all
+contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of <i>Monte Cavallo</i>. Here
+are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This
+vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle,
+encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross
+Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the
+Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main
+Building there’s a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant
+<i>Jesus</i> in her Arms, as designed by <i>Charles Maratti</i>, which is an
+admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they
+are not near so magnificent as those of the <i>Vatican</i>. The Furniture of
+this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being
+rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold
+Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the
+reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other
+in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope’s Apartments there’s one of the
+most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and very far
+into the Country. The Air of <i>Monte Cavallo</i> is said to be the best in
+<i>Rome</i>, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes
+to<!--036.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span>
+reside here
+rather than at the <i>Vatican</i>. The Gardens belonging to it are very much
+admir’d by the <i>Italians</i>, who never travell’d out of their Country, where
+Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us <i>Ultramontains</i>,
+who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this
+Country with very great Indifference.</p>
+
+<p>The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a
+Traveller’s Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of <i>Gregory</i> XIII.
+The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn’d on both
+Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are
+plac’d, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At
+the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing
+<i>Castor</i> and <i>Pollux</i>, when they came Express to <span class="smcap">Rome</span> with the News of the
+Victory gain’d over the <i>Tarquins</i>. In the Midst of the Area, which is
+form’d by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc’d
+Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there’s an <i>Equestrian</i>
+Statue in Brass, of the Emperor <i>Marcus Aurelius Antoninus</i>, which is the
+most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the
+Kind. They say here, that the Republic of <i>Venice</i> offer’d some Years ago
+to pay as many <i>Sequins</i> for this Statue as cou’d be put into the Horse’s
+Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it
+is at present. ’Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable
+Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all
+Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the
+Direction of <i>Michael Angelo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two
+others, the Senate
+of<!--037.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span>
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span> meets, and there Justice is administer’d.
+There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of
+the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there’s a stately
+Fountain adorn’d with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals,
+representing the <i>Nile</i> and the <i>Tiber</i>; and in a Niche over it, is the
+Statue of <i>Roma triumphans</i>, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of
+excellent Sculpture.</p>
+
+<p>The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings,
+particularly the Rape of the <i>Sabines</i>; and among the modern Statues, the
+Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope <i>Urban</i> VIII. done by
+<i>Bernini</i>; the Colossal Statue of Pope <i>Leo</i> X. in Marble, done by
+<i>Lorenzetto</i> of <i>Florence</i>; those of <i>Alexander Farnese</i>, <i>Marcus
+Antoninus</i>, <i>Colonna</i>, <i>Gregory</i> XIII., <i>Paul</i> III. and many others, in
+short, which I don’t mention, as being of less Value, and which are not
+much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou’d
+pass with us for Master-pieces.</p>
+
+<p>Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call’d <i>Campo-vaccino</i>, I
+cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to
+particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the
+admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, which I cannot behold
+without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou’d have the
+same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to
+see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the
+ancient Capitol, on the other the <i>Constantine</i> Arch erected with so much
+Expence by the Senate and People of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, broken and half-bury’d; beyond
+that, the Arch of <i>Titus</i>, in a Condition still worse;
+on<!--038.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span>
+your Left, the
+immense Ruins of the Temple of <i>Peace</i>; the Vestigies of the Temple of
+<i>Antoninus</i> and <i>Faustina</i>, on the Architrave of which is this vain
+Inscription, <i>Divo Antonino, Divæ Faustinæ</i>; on your Right-hand the
+melancholy Ruins of the Temple of <i>Concord</i>, which, to judge of it by the
+eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was
+built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator <i>Furius Camillus</i> for having
+reconcil’d the <i>Plebeians</i> and the <i>Patricians</i>. ’Twas in this Temple,
+according to <i>Varro</i>, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of
+the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the
+Mistress of the Universe, as wou’d put you in mind of the Instability of
+this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou’d you say, if you shou’d
+go on till you come to the famous <i>Coliseum</i>, which Time, the Destroyer of
+all Things, had spar’d, but was destroy’d by Men, and such too as were
+most concern’d in the Preservation of every thing in <span class="smcap">Rome</span> that was
+beautiful? And what wou’d you think, if you saw there was scarce enough
+remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once?
+’Twas <i>Vespasian</i> that caus’d it to be built after the Model which was
+intended by <i>Augustus</i>. Its Form on the Outside is round, and ’tis built
+of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena
+is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the
+highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for
+the common People. They say it contain’d eighty-five thousand Spectators.
+It was dedicated by <i>Titus</i>, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great
+Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter’d five
+thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. <i>Paul</i> III. and
+<i>Urban</i><!--039.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span>
+VIII. caus’d the <i>Coliseum</i> to be demolish’d, and made use of the
+Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.</p>
+
+<p>Having entertain’d you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now
+take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you
+into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> in general.
+I don’t deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere;
+but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so
+much Notice as is taken of ’em. Methinks, ’tis with the Buildings of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>,
+as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish’d, we are
+apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou’d censure. A great
+many Palaces are admir’d here, barely from the Prepossession that
+Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was
+true enough heretofore, in the Time of a <i>Sixtus</i> V. a <i>Paul</i> V. and an
+<i>Urban</i> VIII. who had the Embellishment of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> at Heart; but ’tis not so
+now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their
+Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in
+<i>France</i> than they do in <i>Italy</i>, especially as to the Distribution of the
+Apartments, of which the <i>Italians</i> have no Notion. Most of the Apartments
+of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which
+have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms
+have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is
+the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix’d where
+they shou’d be; mean time, Canopies are what the <i>Roman</i> Princes and
+Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or
+six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they
+are<!--040.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span>
+giving
+Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not
+look for such Ornaments here as they have in <i>France</i>, and elsewhere. As
+to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of
+Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho’
+there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work’d, that
+the Gilding employ’d on them serves only the more to expose their
+Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either
+of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn’d
+with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which
+are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six
+Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some
+Picture-shop at the Fair of <i>St. Germain</i>. Besides, these Pictures are in
+such sorry old-fashion’d Frames, that they disparage them. They have but
+few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal
+Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are
+beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou’d be
+better pleas’d to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I
+don’t think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here
+is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a
+long while in their Graves; and there’s no House furnish’d in the modern
+Taste, except those of the Cardinals <i>del Giudici</i>, <i>Albano</i>, <i>Bolognetti</i>
+and <i>Carolis</i>.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here
+the <i>Farnese</i> Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>;
+<i>Michael Angelo</i> was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building
+were
+taken<!--041.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>
+out of the <i>Coliseum</i> of the Emperor <i>Vespasian</i>, by Order of
+<i>Paul</i> III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of
+Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This
+Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn’d
+with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up
+fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of
+oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to
+this Palace is through a great Court, adorn’d within by <i>Doric</i> Pillars;
+and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by
+Arches, with great Galleries well cover’d over, where we see the famous
+Statues of <i>Hercules</i> and <i>Flora</i>, which are really worthy the Observation
+of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there
+is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble,
+all of one Piece, representing the Fable of <i>Dirce</i>, fasten’d to a Bull,
+by <i>Zethus</i> and <i>Amphion</i>, the Sons of <i>Antiope</i>, Wife of <i>Lycus</i> King of
+<i>Bœotia</i>, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom <i>Lycus</i> had
+divorc’d, because she had suffer’d herself to be debauch’d by <i>Jupiter</i> in
+the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder <i>Lycus</i>, and to tie
+<i>Dirce</i> by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she
+was dragg’d about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess,
+turn’d her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from <i>Rhodes</i>
+to <span class="smcap">Rome</span> by Order of the Emperor <i>Antoninus Caracalla</i>, and was found under
+Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor,
+from whence <i>Paul</i> III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that
+it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been
+plac’d there.</p>
+
+<!--042.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn’d with several
+fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History
+of <i>Alexander Farnese</i>, when he pass’d the <i>Scheld</i>, who is represented as
+crown’d by Victory, with <i>Flanders</i> and the <i>Scheld</i> chain’d to his Feet.
+There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches,
+and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in <i>Fresco</i> by
+<i>Salviati</i> and <i>Zucaro</i>. There we see the Emperor <i>Charles</i> V. and
+<i>Francis</i> I. King of <i>France</i>, shaking each other by the Hand; the
+memorable Transactions of <i>Paul</i> III. and <i>Martin Luther</i> in Conference
+with that Pope’s <i>Nuncio</i>. In the next Apartments there are a great many
+fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest
+Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout
+by <i>Annibal Carache</i>, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very
+great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of <i>Bacchus</i>. In
+fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that
+the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all
+taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of <i>Parma</i>. ’Tis
+pity that ’tis not finish’d, for in Truth it wou’d be a fine Piece of
+Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. <i>Peter</i>’s <i>Miracles</i>,
+which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for
+their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate,
+and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their
+Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of
+their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don’t live to finish;
+and ’tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles,
+either because they don’t care to make a Shew of the Wealth
+that<!--043.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span>
+was left
+them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the
+Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good
+for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a
+mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the
+Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that
+they are swallow’d up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the
+Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to
+decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch’d off on
+sudden by Winter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Paul</i> III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the <i>Tyber</i>, behind
+the <i>Farnese</i> Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden
+of the little <i>Farnese</i> Palace, which is on the other Side of the River,
+in the Quarter call’d <i>Longara</i>; and if this Design had been executed, the
+Duke of <i>Parma</i> wou’d have had a much finer Palace at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, than he has in
+his own Capital.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Barberini</i> Palace is in no respect inferior to the <i>Farnese</i>, and is
+larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The
+Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms
+a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great
+Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in <i>Fresco</i> by <i>Peter Cortona</i>,
+who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of
+Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection.
+The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really
+contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give
+you all the Particulars, I shou’d never have done. That which very much
+disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might
+<!--044.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span>easily
+be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses
+which belong to it.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace <i>Pamphili</i> in the Street <i>del Corso</i> will be, as to the
+Outside, the most magnificent in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, when the grand Front, which is now
+actually carrying up, is finish’d. The Prince <i>Pamphili</i> who is the Owner
+of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the
+richest Noblemen in ready Money in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. His Brother the Cardinal, who
+died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand <i>Roman</i> Crowns in
+Specie. The Prince is a very good Œconomist, has no Children, and being
+not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife,
+his Nephew the Duke <i>Carpidetti</i>, who is the last of the <i>Pamphili</i>
+Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted;
+and though they have been as often reconcil’d, either by their Kindred, or
+by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been
+assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are
+asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender
+Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as
+bad.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis not long ago that the <i>Campagna di Roma</i> was infested by Locusts
+(which are here call’d <i>Grilli</i>) to such a Degree, that Pope <i>Benedict</i>
+XIII. curs’d them, and banish’d them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
+they were all drown’d. This Miracle being talk’d of some Days after in
+Presence of the Prince <i>Pamphili</i>, he made Answer, that he did not believe
+it; for, said he, were it so, I shou’d be the most unhappy of Men! But,
+‘How is it possible for all the <i>Grilli</i> to be plung’d headlong into the
+Sea, and the <i>Campagna di Roma</i> to be deliver’d from them, and that I
+shou’d still keep the <i>Grillo</i> in my House?’ He
+alluded<!--045.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span>
+hereby to his
+Wife, who is of the <i>Grillo</i> Family in <i>Genoa</i>.</p>
+
+<p>If the Duke <i>Carpinetti</i> shou’d die without Issue, as ’tis believ’d will
+be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
+who never yet conceiv’d, the immense Estate of the <i>Pamphili</i> Family goes
+to the Family of the Constable <i>Colonna</i>, and really it will then be in
+better Hands. You know that the <i>Colonna</i>’s are the gayest People in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>,
+and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
+many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
+Stock as the Royal Family of <i>Prussia</i>. Since the <i>Ursini</i> Family is
+extinct, there’s not one in <span class="smcap">Rome</span> can equal the <i>Colonna</i>’s. The Head of
+this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince <i>del Soglio</i>, (of the
+Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
+of the Pope’s Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
+Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
+and the present Emperor declar’d him his perpetual Ambassador for
+presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
+<i>Naples</i> owes to the Holy See<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>. The <i>Colonna</i>’s are well-bred, affable
+and generous, and always liv’d with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
+present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
+finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
+live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because ’tis
+what is seldom
+known<!--046.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span>
+among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
+magnificent in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, as to the Inside of it; and ’tis pity but that it had
+another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
+oblig’d for it to any of St. <i>Peter</i>’s Successors. Instead of giving you
+the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
+richly furnish’d. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
+extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
+are not to be found in that of <i>Versailles</i>, which is admir’d by all
+<i>Europe</i>: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
+support an Arch at each End, whereby there’s an Entrance to the Salon,
+which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
+Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
+Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
+Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
+gain’d in the Time of <i>Pius</i> V. over the <i>Turks</i> at <i>Lepanto</i>, by the
+Valour of <i>Mark Antony Colonna</i>. These Paintings are by different Hands,
+and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
+the Walls which are fac’d with Marble, ’tis impossible to see any thing
+more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by <i>Frenchmen</i>. I never
+saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
+Festival of St. <i>Peter</i>, which is the Time of the Constable’s presenting
+the Hackney to the Pope.</p>
+
+<p>This Ceremony was perform’d not many Days ago; but as it cou’d not be on
+St. <i>Peter</i>’s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. <i>Peter</i>’s See, it
+was done at the Church of Our Lady <i>del Popoli</i>, on the Day of the
+Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
+Cardinals<!--047.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span>
+<i>Olivieri</i> and <i>Banchieri</i>, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
+and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
+When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
+Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton’d the Vespers, which
+were continu’d by the Music. During this, Don <i>Philip Corsini</i>, the Pope’s
+grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany’d the Holy Father, set
+out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable’s Palace. They
+were attended by a Detachment from the hundred <i>Swiss</i> Guards, Light-Horse
+and Carbineers. Don <i>Philip Corsini</i> complimented the Constable in the
+Name of <i>Clement</i> XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
+Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
+then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of <i>Naples</i>: The
+Princes march’d alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
+Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow’d by the Hackney, which is
+a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
+the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider’d with Silver, trailing on
+the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
+Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
+Kingdom of <i>Naples</i> pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
+came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred <i>Swiss</i>, preceded by
+thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
+Livery. Don <i>Philip Corsini</i> was on his Right-hand, and M. <i>Acquaviva</i>,
+the <i>Major Domo</i>, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
+The feudatory Prelates follow’d him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
+riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos’d by fifteen of the
+<!--048.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span>Constable’s
+magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
+When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
+was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
+kneeling before him, said to him, ‘That the Emperor <i>Charles</i> VI. King of
+the <i>Two Sicilies</i>, his Master, had charg’d him to deliver to his
+Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
+his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow’d to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
+<i>Naples</i>.’ This Compliment must be made in the <i>Spanish</i> Tongue, to which
+the Pope makes Answer in <i>Latin</i>. <i>Clement</i> XII. said, ‘We accept the
+Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son <i>Charles</i> VI. Emperor
+and King of the <i>Sicilies</i>, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
+Spouse <i>Elizabeth</i> the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
+his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
+Father, <i>&amp;c.</i>’ When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
+the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
+present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
+Register, according to Custom. This done, <i>Clement</i> XII. went out of the
+Church, and return’d with a great Train to the Palace of <i>Monte-cavallo</i>.
+The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor’s
+Ambassador, his Cardinal <i>Cienfuegos</i>, who rode in the Constable’s chief
+Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
+Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk’d in a Body together, without any
+Distinction, but the Coaches follow’d alternatively, <i>viz.</i> one Coach of
+the Cardinal’s, and one of the Constable’s. His Eminency had ten, which
+were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus
+they<!--049.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span>
+arriv’d at the
+Constable’s Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
+Wax. All the Nobility of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> came in a few Moments after, with all the
+Cardinals. They were plentifully regal’d with Refreshments, and a fine
+Firework was play’d off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
+manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
+Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro’ the
+principal Streets of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>; and in the Evening, the Ambassador’s Palace was
+illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear’d, as
+they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
+Ceremony ended, and ’tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
+assuring you, that I am ever, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXX.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, Dec. 5, 1730.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Tho’ I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can’t
+forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince <i>Borghese</i>.
+There’s an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
+elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
+the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
+Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
+Summer
+Apartment,<!--050.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span>
+which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
+Monarch. ’Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
+Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
+Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
+Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
+Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of <i>Paul</i> V. who was of the
+<i>Borghese</i> Family, and tho’ no more than an Advocate at first, rais’d his
+Family from the mean State it was in at <i>Sienna</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
+thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
+Bankrupt. There is not a Family in <span class="smcap">Rome</span> for which St. <i>Peter</i> has done
+more than this. The Prince’s Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
+stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there’s a
+second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
+Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
+populous in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
+Country Houses, particularly that of <i>Mondragone</i>, near <i>Frescati</i>, built
+by Pope <i>Paul</i> V. and the Garden near the Gate <i>Pinciano</i>, made by
+Cardinal <i>Scipio Borghese</i>, one of that Pope’s Nephews. Before the Art of
+Gardening was introduc’d into <i>Germany</i> and <i>France</i>, the Gardens of
+<i>Italy</i> were reckon’d the finest in the World; but now-a-days ’tis
+otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ’d before) a Man is an
+<i>Italian</i>, and never pass’d the <i>Alps</i>, he will look with Contempt upon
+all the Gardens which the <i>Romans</i> call <i>wonderful</i>, <i>charming</i>, and
+<i>astonishing</i>. Nevertheless, I wou’d not have you think that I find no
+Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
+Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and
+Laurels,<!--051.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span>
+of which the Walks are form’d, tho’
+they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz’d at the Magnificence of those
+who made those Gardens, and am pleas’d to find by what they have done,
+that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
+short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
+see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
+them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
+Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of <i>Paul</i> V.
+and Cardinal <i>Scipio</i>, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince <i>Borghese</i> are
+kept in better Order than those of the other <i>Roman</i> Nobility; yet for all
+this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm’d, as the Gardens of
+<i>France</i>, <i>Holland</i>, and the <i>Ultramontane</i> Countries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mondragone</i> stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. ’Tis a large
+Building, after the Model of the Palace of <i>Monte-cavallo</i>. The Apartments
+are spacious, but very sorrily furnish’d. The House at the Vineyard
+<i>Pinciano</i> is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
+which ’tis adorn’d. ’Tis almost intirely cover’d on the Outside with
+stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, ’tis a Pleasure to
+see <i>Curtius</i> on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
+Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
+<i>Belisarius</i>, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
+that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho’ very ill furnish’d, are
+adorn’d with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou’d admire
+<i>David</i> holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior <i>Bernini</i>; the Groupe
+representing <i>Daphne</i> beginning to be metamorphos’d into a Laurel, at the
+Nick of
+Time<!--052.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span>
+when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
+Statue of <i>Seneca</i> expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
+representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
+Vessel of <i>African</i> Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
+<i>Gladiator</i> in a fighting Posture, the Work of <i>Agasias</i> the <i>Ephesian</i>,
+as the <i>Greek</i> Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
+and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
+curious Workmanship. ’Tis said that this Statue was discover’d under the
+Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of <i>Victoria</i>, at the
+Time that Cardinal <i>Scipio Borghese</i> caus’d it to be erected; and really
+’tis so curious a Piece, that it wou’d have been pity it had not been
+found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
+Statues of the Prince <i>Borghese</i>, I shou’d never have done; for no King in
+the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
+a Treasure that is inestimable.</p>
+
+<p>I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
+and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner <i>Clement</i> XII. has
+taken Possession of the Church of St. <i>John de Lateran</i>. This Ceremony was
+perform’d on <i>Sunday</i> the 19th of <i>November</i> last. The Pope went in the
+Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of <i>Monte-Cavallo</i> to that of
+the <i>Vatican</i>. At half an Hour past eighteen o’Clock, as they call it
+here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
+Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
+Way, follow’d by several close Carriages cover’d with Tapestry embroider’d
+with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong’d: Then came the
+Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
+follow’d
+by<!--053.png--><span class="pagenum">50</span>
+their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
+<i>Bologna</i>, and the <i>Roman</i> Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress’d
+in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope’s Equerries in red Robes, his
+Holiness’s Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
+went before two Portmanteaus trimm’d with red Velvet lac’d with Gold,
+which were carry’d on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
+in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
+for <i>Naples</i>. The Pope’s Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
+and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover’d with red Velvet trimm’d with
+Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope’s Stables follow’d by two Prickers. At
+some Distance from thence came the <i>Roman</i> Nobility, walking without
+Distinction of Rank, all dress’d in black Coats and Mantles, with great
+Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope’s Mace-bearers, in
+long-sleev’d purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
+solid Silver, and follow’d by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
+red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
+Quarters, or Wards of the City of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. Four of the Pope’s Trumpeters
+dress’d in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
+red Robes. The Valets <i>de Chambre</i> call’d <i>Camerieri extra muros</i>. The
+Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
+Advocates dress’d in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
+The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
+Robes. The four last carry’d on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
+are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, in
+Gowns of black Velvet,
+and<!--054.png--><span class="pagenum">51</span>
+wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
+follow’d by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
+Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
+Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
+Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
+came the Governor of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes <i>del
+Soglio</i> in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
+the Pope’s Cross-bearer, who carry’d the Image of our Saviour turn’d
+towards the Holy Father, and walk’d between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
+Then the Holy Father appear’d in a Litter, like a <i>Phaethon</i>, lin’d with
+red Velvet embroider’d and lac’d with Gold, carry’d by two white Mules.
+Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
+red and silver’d Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin’d with white and silver
+Mohair, and inrich’d with broad Gold Lace, encompass’d the Litter, as did
+the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
+trimm’d with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
+hundred <i>Swiss</i> rode on Horseback, arm’d with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
+Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred <i>Swiss</i> arm’d with
+Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
+Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider’d
+with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin’d with Ermin, a
+Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
+the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
+some small Distance follow’d fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
+dress’d in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp’d over their Eyes,
+with their
+red<!--055.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>
+Hats. They were follow’d by Signior <i>Neri Corsini</i>, a
+Nephew of <i>Clement</i> XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
+assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
+the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
+Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
+clos’d by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
+Marquis <i>Bartholomew Corsini</i>, and the Duke <i>Strozzi</i>, (both Nephews of
+the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
+of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider’d with Gold. They had on their Hats
+great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry’d their Spears and
+Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
+of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
+adorn’d with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
+they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
+Taffeta, such as I have seen carry’d by the <i>Spahis</i>.</p>
+
+<p>All this Cavalcade pass’d thro’ the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
+with Tapestry of red Damask lac’d with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
+<i>Frangipani</i>, a <i>Roman</i> Senator, receiv’d the Pope, and presented him the
+Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
+answer’d by a Benediction. At <i>Campo-Vaccino</i>, thro’ which the Train
+pass’d, the Pope found near the <i>Farnese</i> Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
+the Duke of <i>Parma</i>, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig’d to erect
+every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the <i>Lateran</i> Church.
+From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
+Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish’d by the <i>Jews</i>, who
+had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.</p>
+
+<!--056.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv’d at the Gate of St.
+<i>John de Lateran</i>, by the Cardinal <i>Picus de Mirandola</i>, Arch-priest of
+the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
+being preceded by the Chapter of St. <i>John de Lateran</i>, conducted him to
+the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
+being there seated, array’d himself in his <i>Pontificalibus</i>, and put on
+the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
+Cardinal Arch-priest harangu’d him in the Name of the Chapter, and
+presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
+of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn’d with Flowers. During this, the
+Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
+his Throne, advanc’d towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
+Arch-priest perfum’d him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
+to him, which the Pope dipp’d into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
+the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
+was carry’d thro’ the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
+the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
+Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac’d himself upon a
+Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
+receiv’d the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
+Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
+assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
+and took it off, just as the Service requir’d. Then his Holiness descended
+from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry’d to
+the <i>Lateran</i> Palace. During this, the
+Musick<!--057.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span>
+play’d Anthems, and the
+Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv’d at the
+great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
+all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter’d among
+the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
+carry’d in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
+<i>Banchieri</i> and <i>Olivieri</i>, and thus he return’d to the Palace of
+<i>Monte-Cavallo</i>, attended by his usual Train.</p>
+
+<p>This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
+magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav’d of them, than
+they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
+Masquerade which I don’t think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of <span class="smcap">Jesus
+Christ</span>. All the Laity dress’d in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
+mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
+Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
+to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
+all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
+in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
+Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
+Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in <i>France</i> and the <i>Netherlands</i>
+upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.</p>
+
+<p>The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
+as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
+for some Days before, had almost spoil’d it. Besides this, the Order of
+the Procession was very ill observ’d; for there were sometimes Intervals
+<!--058.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span>of
+half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the <i>Lateran</i>
+Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
+getting along. ’Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
+if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
+at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
+me again before Lent. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXI.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, March 10, 1731</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
+sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
+for it; for <i>Clement</i> XII. has been continually teaz’d upon that Score
+from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
+the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
+obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
+Countries, and all Courts are alike.</p>
+
+<p>Having made my Application to Signior <i>Acquaviva</i>, the <i>Major Domo</i>, who
+officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> <i>Doria</i>, then
+indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order’d me to
+be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at
+the<!--059.png--><span class="pagenum">56</span>
+Door, according
+to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair,
+ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red
+Velvet. As I enter’d the Chamber, Signior <i>Acquaviva</i> bid me kneel, which
+I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach’d
+him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel’d again, and
+receiv’d the Pope’s Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming
+up close to the Pope, I kneel’d again, and receiv’d a third Blessing, all
+which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they
+consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one
+Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask’d me many Questions,
+and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was
+extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so
+long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the
+Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope’s Countenance change; his Smiles
+were turn’d into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather
+have my Room than my Company. But being appriz’d beforehand, that his
+Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without
+omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber,
+I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at
+Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all
+that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon;
+for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun’d, and therefore I will
+gratify him in his own Way.</p>
+
+<p>Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than
+I did, unless they
+are<!--060.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span>
+Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the
+Pope’s Toe. The Prince Regent of <i>Waldeck</i>, who was here not long ago,
+went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv’d in the same manner
+as the Princes of <i>Brunswic</i> had been formerly: He waited some Moments in
+the Antichamber, and without being oblig’d to leave his Sword and Hat, as
+those of his Retinue were, he was introduc’d by the <i>Major Domo</i> to the
+Pope, who receiv’d him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as
+he enter’d, nor did the Pope, who ask’d him several Questions, and was
+inform’d that he was a <i>Lutheran</i>, give him his Blessing: Before he
+withdrew, the Prince desir’d the Pope, that he would give him leave to
+introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the
+last Degree, neither kneel’d, nor kiss’d the Pope’s Foot. At <i>Geneva</i>
+indeed he deserv’d to have his Statue erected, tho’ here his Politeness
+was call’d in question; but as for the Prince of <i>Waldeck</i>, all <span class="smcap">Rome</span> was
+charm’d with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five
+Months here, and liv’d handsomely. He apply’d himself to the Knowledge of
+Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho’ not so
+large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover’d a very
+great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for <i>Germany</i>
+if all its Princes were like him.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince of <i>Waldeck</i> leads me to give you an Account of those
+unfortunate Princes who are here call’d the King and Queen of <i>England</i>.
+Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot
+they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body
+can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the
+Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to
+make<!--061.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span>
+him
+easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis
+<i>Monti</i>, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that
+are Persons of Quality. My Lord <i>Dunbar</i> is the chief Man at his Court,
+since Mr. <i>Hayes</i>, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord
+<i>Inverness</i>, retir’d to <i>Avignon</i>: This Gentleman is intrusted with the
+Education of the young Princes, who are here styl’d the Prince of <i>Wales</i>,
+and the Duke of <i>York</i>, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall
+see.</p>
+
+<p>The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style
+of <i>Majesty</i> by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never
+goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the
+Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the
+Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps <i>incognito</i>. When
+the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the <i>Tabouret</i>, or little Stool;
+but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to
+do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem’d to be more embroil’d with
+the King of <i>Great Britain</i> than ever; whereas the <i>French</i> Cardinals go
+to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict
+Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of <i>Great Britain</i>.
+When the eldest Prince, who is here styl’d the Prince of <i>Wales</i>, goes to
+wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has
+a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.
+As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of <i>York</i>, his Rank is not yet
+settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Pretender</i> is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I
+may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is
+prodigiously<!--062.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span>
+like the Pictures I have seen of the late King <i>James</i> II.
+his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far
+from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would
+indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch’d by the
+Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. <i>Hayes</i>,
+<i>alias</i> Lady <i>Inverness</i>, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If
+one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely
+attach’d to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a
+Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be
+educated by Protestants, and every <i>Sunday</i> a Church of <i>England</i> Minister
+preaches in <i>English</i> in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is
+extremely reserv’d at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but
+it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very
+courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table,
+and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.</p>
+
+<p>His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv’d with what
+is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are
+seated at the King’s Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits
+himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his
+Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His
+Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally
+upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince’s Time is regularly divided; he
+rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon,
+when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours
+at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint’s Day, when he goes
+to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some
+Garden<!--063.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span>
+or other without
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at
+Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his
+Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o’Clock he goes to
+Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every
+Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the
+Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen;
+and tho’ not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is
+infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish’d
+Lady, and never was there a better natur’d Person with more Humility; she
+is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in
+Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of
+ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good,
+and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho’ she is heartily
+attach’d to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ
+from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and
+good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it
+her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed,
+Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a
+Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory,
+and she speaks <i>Polish</i>, <i>High-Dutch</i>, <i>French</i>, <i>Italian</i>, and <i>English</i>
+so well, that ’tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is
+most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I
+had the Honour to approach, I don’t know one more deserving of the
+Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that
+Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did
+not<!--064.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>
+bind me so
+strongly to the King and Queen of <i>Great Britain</i>, I could wish to see her
+wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.</p>
+
+<p>You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince <i>James Sobieski</i>, and by
+consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of <i>Spain</i>, and
+Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of <i>Spain</i>, Widow of
+<i>Charles</i> II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at
+<i>Inspruck</i>, when she pass’d that Way to <i>Italy</i>, to be married to the
+Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her
+Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.
+<i>Gaydon</i>, then a Major in the Service of <i>France</i>, to try if he could
+procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to <i>Inspruck</i>, accompany’d by
+Mr. <i>Wogan</i>, an <i>English</i> Gentleman, and one <i>Misset</i>, an <i>Irishman</i>, who
+carry’d his Wife with him. They arriv’d accordingly at <i>Inspruck</i> with a
+great Retinue, and there they pass’d for People of Consequence: They
+contriv’d so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to
+give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was
+repair’d: They introduc’d themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a
+Nun whom they brib’d to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix’d on
+the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was
+Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess’s Stature to pass
+thro’ the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner’s Bed, who
+for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl’s
+Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass’d thro’ her
+Guards, and made up towards <i>Misset</i>, who gave a Whistle opposite to the
+Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to
+apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow’d a
+<!--065.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>great
+deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen’d to step into a
+Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig’d to
+leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From
+thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet
+and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. <i>Misset</i> and Mr.
+<i>Gaydon</i> had the Honour to sit with her. <i>Wogan</i> rode by the Side of the
+Coach, and <i>Misset</i> stay’d two Hours longer at <i>Inspruck</i>, to see whether
+any Discovery was made of the Princess’s Flight. The Silence of the Guard
+was such, that he believ’d they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he
+rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to
+watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for
+early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and
+the Commandant at <i>Inspruck</i> immediately sent off Messengers to all the
+great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend
+the Fugitive. <i>Misset</i> being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he
+travell’d a little way with him, and resolv’d either to make him drunk, or
+to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a
+certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their
+Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the
+Messenger; and when he found him doz’d, he took away his Dispatches, and
+went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three
+Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy
+See.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at <i>Bologna</i>, she there found my Lord <i>Dunbar</i>, vested with a
+Proxy from the Pretender, then in <i>Spain</i>, to marry her; which Ceremony
+was accordingly perform’d there without much Pomp, and the Princess set
+out in a few Days for
+<i>Rome</i>.<!--066.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span>
+My Lady <i>Marr</i>, accompany’d by all the
+<i>English</i> of both Sexes that were at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> of the Pretender’s Party, went
+in that Prince’s Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the
+<i>Roman</i> Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus
+did the Princess make her public Entry into <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, where she was receiv’d
+with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join’d by
+her Husband<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you
+of a certain Prophecy in every body’s Mouth here, which was said to be
+found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734,
+the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of
+<i>Great Britain</i>; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>. Be this
+as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Dum <i>Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Et Antonius Veni Creator,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Et Joannes Baptista cænabit,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus</i> III.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;"><i>i. e.</i></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>When Easter falls on St. Mark’s Day,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>And Whitsunday on St. Antony’s of Padua,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>And when St. John the Baptist’s is a Sacrament Day,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Then King James <span class="f">III.</span> shall reign and triumph in England.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was
+to me very
+tiresom,<!--067.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span>
+tho’ it lasted here, according to an establish’d
+Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o’Clock in the
+Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on
+Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things,
+and the latter throw Meslin in one another’s Eyes by Handfuls; but the
+best on’t is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body
+is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the <i>Romans</i> is always the same, even
+in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make
+them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in
+open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn’d with Plumes of
+Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the
+Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street <i>del
+Corso</i>, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of
+Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer’d to run loose
+without a Rider, from the Gate <i>del Popoli</i> to a Place beyond the
+<i>Venetian</i> Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro’ the Shouts and Cries of
+the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the
+Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for
+his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at
+Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a <i>Roman</i> will tell you, that the
+Carnival of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> is the finest in the World.</p>
+
+<p>But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where
+to be parallell’d for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now
+be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb’d this Winter for the Hire of the
+Palace <i>Barberini</i>, near the <i>Mount of Piety</i>, and caus’d it to be
+furnish’d by the <i>Jew</i> Brokers; when the Day was fix’d for the Ball, they
+invited all the Ladies;
+and<!--068.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span>
+as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of
+appearing there mask’d, provided they made themselves known at the Door:
+All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several
+Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design’d
+for the principal Nobility was encompass’d with Forms, and the Place for
+the Dancers was an oval Nook rail’d in. A Gentleman of the Company that
+gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title
+of Master of the Hall, and ’twas he that call’d out the Dancers. All the
+Ladies were mask’d at this Ball, which was call’d a Feast, but I know not
+why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.
+The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have
+been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir’d, and in
+such Danger of being press’d to Death, that I don’t care to go again; for
+which reason the <i>Romans</i> say, I have not an elegant Taste.</p>
+
+<p>Neither am I very well reconcil’d to their Plays, of which indeed here are
+none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two
+Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there’s
+but one that’s good for any thing, and that’s the Ladies Theatre, commonly
+call’d the Theatre of <i>Aliberti</i> because ’twas built by Order of one Count
+<i>Aliberti</i>. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in
+it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room
+look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage
+is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don’t shift the
+Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the
+whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the
+three principal Actors are
+magnificent,<!--069.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
+but those of the rest are
+horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most
+part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can’t imagine any
+thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a
+ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here,
+that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that
+the Operas of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> are vastly inferior to the other Operas of <i>Italy</i>.
+There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures,
+who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho’ they have neither
+Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best
+Actresses are elsewhere. Tho’ I am passionately fond of the <i>Italian</i>
+Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see
+those Eunuchs play the Part of a <i>Roland</i>, a <i>Hercules</i>, or some such
+Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no
+Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an
+Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very
+scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that
+have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the
+Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; <i>viz.
+Leonard Vinci</i>, who, they say, was poison’d at <i>Naples</i>; but there are
+still remaining M. <i>Hass</i>, commonly call’d the <i>Saxon</i>, and <i>Signior
+Purpora</i>, of whom the former is a <i>German</i>, who married the famous
+<i>Signiora Faustina</i>.</p>
+
+<p>While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, I ought not to
+omit the Inundations of the Square <i>Navona</i>, which are perform’d on the
+four <i>Sundays</i> in the Month of <i>August</i>. Two Thirds of the Square being
+then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make
+a<!--070.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>
+Ring.
+The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses
+are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a
+Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which
+sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while
+the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a
+thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the
+Square, bawl’d out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho’ very
+few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and ’twas not his
+Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces
+from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions
+of his <i>Merry-Andrew</i>, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit
+had.</p>
+
+<p>Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a <i>Roman</i>, who never
+pass’d the <i>Ponte Mole</i>, as there are a great many who have not, will tell
+you there are none like those of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. But I affirm that the <i>Romans</i>
+don’t know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where
+reigns the greatest Freedom, there’s always an Air of Constraint, which
+one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them,
+insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget
+Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know
+how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be
+acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats,
+where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where
+they live much better than they do at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, at least they feed better; and
+I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not
+the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don’t set it off
+to the best Advantage; and if I
+am<!--071.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span>
+not too much prejudiced, it seems to
+me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their
+Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for
+us <i>Ultramontains</i>, we are not quite so well used to their Method of
+Cookery.</p>
+
+<p>I know not whether ’tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of
+Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or
+Curiosity, can bring any Man to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, than which there is hardly a more
+melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in
+particular certain <i>Englishmen</i>, who are fond of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> to a Degree of
+Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself,
+that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can’t be of that
+Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so
+contrary to ours. At my Age, ’tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste
+and Fashion of Living: Those of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> don’t agree with me, and I foresee
+they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I
+promise you, I’ll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my
+Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.</p>
+
+<p>The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they
+do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of
+which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return
+home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After
+their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and
+after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they
+dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate <i>del Popoli</i>; from
+thence to the <i>Ponte Mole</i> there’s a Walk, which is very sorrily pav’d,
+between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses;
+and<!--072.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>
+there’s no Air, but Dust
+enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the <i>Beau Monde</i>
+repairs to the Square, or Place <i>d’Espagne</i>, where I think I have already
+told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their
+Visits of Ceremony: At Two o’Clock at Night, which in the long Days in
+Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into <i>Assemblies</i>. These may be
+divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private
+Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only
+converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the
+Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of
+all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.</p>
+
+<p>The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of
+Mesdames <i>Corsini</i>, the Pope’s Nieces, the Duke of <i>Santo Bueno</i>, and the
+Countess of <i>Bolognetti</i>. These are the three Houses at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> where there
+is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain’d. The
+Duke has a Concert at his House every <i>Friday</i>, at which are present all
+the People of Distinction at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. <i>Madame de Bolognetti</i> has a grand
+Assembly every <i>Sunday</i>, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the
+most part well-dress’d, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbés,
+lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and
+salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except
+Madame <i>Bolognetti</i>, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises;
+and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in <i>French</i>, which
+she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak
+this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they
+don’t care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I
+travell’d hither, I one Day accosted a very
+amiable<!--073.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span>
+Lady in the <i>French</i>
+Tongue, because then I did not understand the <i>Italian</i>; but she answer’d
+me in good <i>French</i>, <i>Sir, I neither speak nor understand the <span class="f">French</span>
+Language</i>. She then turn’d about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking
+Abbé come in, who talk’d with her in private all the Evening, and probably
+in such a Language as she understood.</p>
+
+<p>After the Levee they fall to play, but ’tis at such Games as we
+<i>Ultramontains</i> know no more of than Magic; <i>viz.</i> such as <i>Tarot</i>,
+<i>Pazzica</i>, <i>Premiere</i>, and <i>Milchiades</i>. As to the last of these, I take
+it to be like the Languages, which ’tis difficult to be Master of, unless
+People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man’s
+whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with
+99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes,
+Devils, <i>&amp;c.</i> and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.
+During the Conclave they play at <i>Pharao</i>, but the Pope has prohibited all
+Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the
+Money for the Cards.</p>
+
+<p>The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have
+not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a
+Dozen <i>Petits-colets</i>, who really are the <i>Petits-Maîtres</i> of this Place,
+supposing them to be <i>Italians</i>; for you are not to imagine that these
+Gentlemen will suffer a poor <i>Ultramontain</i> Abbé to put in a Word, because
+they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of
+Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. ’Tis
+true, that the Abbé wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and
+as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so
+that when you see a <i>Petit-colet</i> come out of any suspicious Places, you
+must
+beware<!--074.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>
+of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even
+Clergymen.</p>
+
+<p>The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at
+the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure
+and Freedom; yet ’tis at one of the chief Houses of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and really the
+Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter
+a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles,
+so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou’d be at a Loss where
+to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles
+are plac’d in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion’d Stands of
+the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts
+with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if
+those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but
+whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill
+Fortune plac’d him, because it wou’d be a Crime even to move a Chair; so
+that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse
+with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a
+black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don’t accept it every
+time ’tis offer’d; for if I did, my Stomach wou’d have long ago been
+congeal’d like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring
+Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress’d in Black; the
+two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes
+the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you
+that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.
+Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises
+his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin’d to
+what is
+done<!--075.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span>
+within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary
+Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or
+Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And
+after having thoroughly canvass’d these momentous Subjects till Midnight,
+all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.</p>
+
+<p>Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes
+his Time here well? No, truly, <span class="smcap">Rome</span> is a City that a young Gentleman
+indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion
+of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture,
+and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old <span class="smcap">Rome</span>: But when he has
+digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing
+more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.
+There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of
+the Languages that understands the <i>Italian</i>; and those who are Dabblers
+in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.
+All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon
+Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are
+Masters of it in its Purity.</p>
+
+<p>A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the
+good Manners he may have contracted in <i>France</i>, or elsewhere; for, I say
+it again, the Generality of the <i>Romans</i> know nothing more than Ceremony,
+because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there’s scarce one of them
+in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this,
+one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave
+at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they
+then loll
+so<!--076.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span>
+much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a
+Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in
+their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that
+puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in
+<i>France</i>, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho’ an <i>Italian</i>, was in the <i>French</i>
+Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told
+me one Day that he observ’d I follow’d the <i>French</i> Fashion strictly: I
+ask’d him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day.
+Nevertheless I wou’d not have you think that this Slovenliness is general;
+for there are People as much perfum’d here as elsewhere; and you may take
+my Word for it, that a <i>Petit-Maître</i> at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> is as great a Fop as the
+pertest <i>French Petit-Maître</i>. Indeed they are more rare here than
+elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before
+they are twenty Years of Age.</p>
+
+<p>But as for what remains of the Character of the <i>Romans</i>, I must tell you
+ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains
+have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all
+Countries, and I know some <i>Romans</i> of as strict Probity as the honestest
+<i>Teutonics</i>. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the
+same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth,
+where all the People are virtuous? The <i>Italians</i> are in general accus’d
+of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there’s no Nation where
+the Ladies have more Freedom than here. ’Tis possible that some of the
+Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as
+to the People of Quality, I don’t think them any more liable to that
+Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou’d say as much in their
+Vindication
+as<!--077.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span>
+to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the
+Fact is too well known, and ’tis the original Sin of almost all the
+<i>Italians</i>, particularly of the <i>Romans</i>, from the highest to the lowest;
+and ’tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as
+they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other
+Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort
+drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus’d also of
+being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry’d out
+against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some
+that have receiv’d Affronts, so good-natur’d as to forget them. ’Tis true,
+that the Populace are very apt to make use of the <i>Stilletto</i>, but this is
+owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder
+for the first Time is condemn’d to the Gallies; tho’ in some Cases indeed
+he is only banish’d from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then,
+after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>.
+They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally
+compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.
+If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches
+were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou’d have more Crimes perhaps
+committed among us than there are at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, where, when all is said and
+done, we don’t hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of
+Robberies; and tho’ there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls
+here in the Night, I shou’d make no Scruple to go from one End of the City
+to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou’d be most afraid of
+wou’d be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind
+are much
+oftner<!--078.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span>
+committed among the Dregs of the People, than among
+Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such
+an Accident to any Person of Note.</p>
+
+<p>I happen’d not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my
+Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven
+o’Clock, ’twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People
+stirring in the Streets. I pass’d thro’ the Street <i>del Corso</i>, and just
+as I came to the Square of <i>Colonna</i>, near the House of Cardinal
+<i>Imperiali</i>, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance
+behind the other: As the former brush’d close by me, I heard a Pistol go
+off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from
+the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming;
+but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went
+very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after;
+at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50
+Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But ’tis
+really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the
+Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou’d serve as a Place of Retreat for
+a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour’s Blood. This is an
+Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient
+Privileges. In the last Pope’s Time, <i>Alberoni</i> propos’d to the other
+Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the
+Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he
+said with Indignation, ‘Since ’tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain
+wou’d take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge
+to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
+<!--079.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span>Sacred
+College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to
+Justice, I wou’d do all in my Power to promote his Escape.’ ’Tis said,
+that <i>Clement</i> XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard
+to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture
+at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges
+of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People,
+and the Homage of the Mob.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so
+establish’d, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better
+serv’d, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this
+Purpose there’s a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims
+is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it
+almost every Day, who are there lodg’d and taken care of for three Days,
+and then dismiss’d with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of
+the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv’d, the Men by the Cardinals, and
+the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Divine Service is perform’d with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but
+particularly in the Pope’s Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all
+the Ceremonies therein observ’d, it wou’d take me up another Day. I will,
+in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy
+Week, which, tho’ I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of
+<i>Clement</i> XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better
+enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--080.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, June 15, 1731.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Tho’ the first Promotion of Cardinals by <i>Clement</i> XII. was made the Close
+of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with,
+that I deferr’d giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This
+Promotion was made in Favour of three <i>Nuncios</i>, (who, by the way, never
+quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean
+the <i>Nuncios</i> in <i>Germany</i>, <i>France</i>, and <i>Spain</i>, and Signior <i>Ruspoli</i>,
+the Pope’s Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the
+Pontificate of <i>Benedict</i> XIII. his Father having obtain’d it for him of
+Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being
+appriz’d of the Bargain, which his Father had made with <i>Coscia</i>, he went
+to <i>Corsini</i>, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father’s Friend
+and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass’d betwixt his Father and
+<i>Coscia</i>, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou’d
+never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope’s mere Good-will.
+Cardinal <i>Corsini</i> being charm’d with the generous Temper of young
+<i>Ruspoli</i>, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in
+St. <i>Peter</i>’s Throne, he has preferr’d <i>Ruspoli</i> over the Heads of many
+Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.</p>
+
+<!--081.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This Promotion was made at <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>. The Pope had declar’d in a
+private Consistory, that he was resolv’d to make five Cardinals, <i>viz.</i>
+the three <i>Nuncios</i> above-mention’d, Signior <i>Ruspoli</i>, and a Fifth, whom
+he reserv’d in <i>Petto</i>. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a
+Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch’d Couriers to the <i>Nuncios</i> to carry
+them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint <i>Ruspoli</i>
+of what had pass’d. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the
+Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the
+Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank’d him for the Favour he had just done
+him, and then return’d to his Palace, where he receiv’d the Compliments of
+all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior
+<i>Neri Corsini</i>, <i>Clement</i> XIIth’s Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had
+reserv’d in <i>Petto</i>. On the <i>Thursday</i> following there was a public
+Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according
+to the Ceremonial, been oblig’d to keep his Chamber, and to be dress’d in
+Purple, receiv’d the Hat from the Pope’s own Hand. His Eminency repair’d
+in the Morning to the Chapel of <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>, while the Cardinals were
+assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join’d in the Chapel by
+these Cardinals, <i>viz. Barberini</i>, who represented the Dean of the Sacred
+College; <i>Ottoboni</i>, the Great Chancellor; <i>Albano</i>, the Chamberlain; and
+<i>Cienfuegos</i>, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great
+Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the
+usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return’d from thence into the
+Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel,
+with his <i>Caudataire</i>, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies.
+During<!--082.png--><span class="pagenum">79</span>
+this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by
+kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch
+Cardinal <i>Ruspoli</i>, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As
+he enter’d within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated
+at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle
+of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on
+his Knees, and kiss’d both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who
+rais’d him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went
+afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their
+Seniority, and then return’d and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A
+Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on
+his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies.
+The new Cardinal now kiss’d the Holy Father’s Foot and Hand a second Time;
+and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither
+<i>Ruspoli</i> followed him, and after having thank’d him for the Honour he had
+done him, went and rejoin’d the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory.
+This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope’s Music playing before
+them, to the Chapel, where <i>Te Deum</i> was sung; after which the Cardinals
+went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call’d the <i>Royal
+Hall</i>. There they form’d a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank’d his
+Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a
+Brother, and then they all retir’d. When <i>Ruspoli</i> came home, he there
+found a Gentleman of the Pope’s Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat,
+which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When
+Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair’d with a
+great<!--083.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span>
+Train to St.
+<i>Peter</i>’s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the
+Pretender to the Crown of <i>England</i>, and to the Princess his Wife; he also
+made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited
+the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.</p>
+
+<p>A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which
+he both shut and open’d the Mouth of Cardinal <i>Ruspoli</i>. At the former
+Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father’s Feet, his Holiness
+laid two Fingers on the Cardinal’s Mouth, and strictly injoin’d him not so
+reveal to any body what shou’d pass in the Consistories at which he shou’d
+be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv’d the Cardinals
+of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter’d the
+Conclave before the Pope had open’d their Mouths; which might sometimes be
+the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days
+between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But
+<i>Pius</i> V. declar’d by a Bull which he publish’d the 26th of <i>January</i>
+1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou’d not
+exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.</p>
+
+<p>Cardinal <i>Ruspoli</i> being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took
+his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc’d
+the Words <i>extra omnes</i>, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies,
+and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory
+was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter’d
+the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope’s
+Feet, who open’d his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and
+<!--084.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span>Speaking.
+At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to
+bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring
+adorn’d with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a
+Custom establish’d by <i>Gregory</i> XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold
+to the College <i>de propaganda fide</i>. With that the Ceremony ended. In the
+Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign
+Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were
+illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.</p>
+
+<p>There are, as I have observ’d, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public,
+the other Secret, and they are both notify’d to the Cardinals by two of
+the Pope’s Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father
+himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels
+to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They
+wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the
+Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, <i>Eminentissime Domine, Crastina
+Die, Hora, &amp;c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum</i>, or,
+<i>fiat Processio.</i> They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not
+let them wait a Moment; but are oblig’d to admit them, in what Plight
+soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their
+Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find
+a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal
+chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.</p>
+
+<p>This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope’s Council of State, wherein
+he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs
+of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to
+each Cardinal,
+the<!--085.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>
+Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the
+Palls conferr’d upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of
+in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin’d, as is, in short,
+every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in
+Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call’d the Secret
+Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors
+that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new
+Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as
+he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In
+this Public Consistory, the Pope’s Throne is rais’d much higher than
+ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers
+plac’d at their Feet. The Constable <i>Colonna</i>, in Quality of first Prince
+of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour
+that he yields to none but the Pope’s Nephews. The Ambassador of
+<i>Bologna</i>, and the Conservators of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are
+plac’d on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope’s great
+Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right,
+the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.</p>
+
+<p>When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in <i>Petto</i>, tho’ he names him
+not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all
+those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the
+Pope dies ere he has declar’d him in Public, ’tis sufficient if the Holy
+Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he
+declar’d a Cardinal in <i>Petto</i>, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest
+that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had
+nominated in <i>Petto</i>.</p>
+
+<!--086.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Dignity of a Cardinal is look’d upon here as the greatest Thing in the
+World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates
+of this Court don’t form to obtain it; and a Family at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> never thinks
+its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so
+true, that one of the first Princes in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, who did not want a Hat in his
+Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the
+Pontificate of <i>Benedict</i> XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal
+<i>Coscia</i>, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But ’tis mere Ambition
+only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those
+purple Gentry lead, is, as ’tis here said, the most melancholy in the
+World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are
+continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig’d almost every Day to
+be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and
+receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the
+taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds
+his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. ’Tis
+true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify
+such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational
+Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is
+but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their
+Grandeur is a Burden.</p>
+
+<p>When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call’d <i>in
+Fiochi</i>, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes
+foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an
+Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho’ they are Princes, must
+stop for him; and when two
+Cardinals<!--087.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span>
+meet one another riding out after
+this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment
+each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus
+ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress’d in long Robes of Scarlet,
+except in Time of <i>Lent</i>, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is
+that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and ’tis in this Habit
+they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the
+Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person
+has been once introduc’d to them, is to attend in their Train, when they
+go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal,
+when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most
+honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a
+Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.</p>
+
+<p>As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of
+the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can’t see wherein it
+consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics
+are generally a <i>Maître de Chambre</i>, an Officer who they say is tantamount
+to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one
+or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many <i>Valets de Chambre</i>; eight
+or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their
+Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they
+commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the
+Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat
+alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and
+of these, not one does it at present, but
+the<!--088.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span>
+Cardinal <i>de Polignac</i>, the
+Minister<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> of <i>France</i>: For the Cardinal <i>Cienfuegos</i>, the Emperor’s
+Ambassador, has retrench’d his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has
+the Cardinal<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> <i>Bentivoglio</i>, on account of his Infirmities.</p>
+
+<p>I can’t help thinking there’s much more Reason to exclaim against the
+ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown’d Heads,
+and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho’ a Cardinal is often but an ordinary
+Man at first, only rais’d to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of
+the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last
+Pontificate, the Cardinals <i>Fini</i> and <i>Coscia</i>. That such Cardinals shou’d
+presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>, or of
+<i>Cologne</i>, of a Duke of <i>Lorain</i>, and in short, of every Prince
+whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College,
+I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv’d such a
+high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of
+the Princes of <i>Italy</i>, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a
+Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency
+in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of <i>Italy</i>. Our Princes on the
+other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much
+devoted to the Holy See, as the <i>Italian</i> Princes are; yet they don’t pay
+this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We
+have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there
+are very few of ’em that wou’d refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of
+the Empire.</p>
+
+<!--089.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the
+Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience,
+where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after
+having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal
+that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When
+the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a
+Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one
+another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there’s a great
+Air of Constraint.</p>
+
+<p>The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope’s
+Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are
+distinguish’d into three Orders, <i>viz.</i> Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty
+Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix’d by Pope <i>Sixtus</i> the
+Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl’d Dean of the Sacred College. He
+that is so now is Cardinal <i>Pignatelli</i>, Archbishop of <i>Naples</i>. This
+Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl’d
+<i>Chiefs of the Order</i>; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving
+Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical
+State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. <i>Innocent</i> the IVth, while the
+Council was held at <i>Lyons</i>, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou’d be
+red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the
+Liberties of the Church. <i>Boniface</i> the VIIIth order’d that they shou’d
+wear scarlet Robes. <i>Paul</i> III. requir’d that their Bonnets shou’d be of
+the same Colour; and <i>Urban</i> the VIIIth granted them the Title of
+Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors
+of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of <i>Malta</i>. The Council of <i>Trent</i>
+<!--090.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span>own’d
+it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of
+Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the
+Kindred of the reigning Pope, the <i>Nuncios</i> in <i>Germany</i>, <i>France</i> and
+<i>Spain</i>, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine,
+many of the Pope’s Great Officers.</p>
+
+<p>There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat.
+The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal <i>Ardicinio</i>; but Pope
+<i>Innocent</i> VIII. refus’d to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the
+Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be
+depriv’d of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal <i>Borgia</i>
+resign’d his Dignity to <i>Alexander</i> VI. The Cardinal <i>Henry</i> of <i>Portugal</i>
+quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> the King
+<i>Don Sebastian</i>. After him, <i>Ferdinand de Medicis</i>, upon the Death of his
+Brother <i>Francis de Medicis</i>, without Issue Male, preferr’d the
+Sovereignty of <i>Tuscany</i> to the red Hat, which he restor’d to Pope
+<i>Sixtus</i> V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr’d
+an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly
+Cardinal <i>Maurice</i> of <i>Savoy</i>, <i>Ferdinand</i> and <i>Vincent Gonzague</i>,
+<i>Francis</i> of <i>Lorain</i>, <i>Camillus Pamphili</i>, <i>John Casimir</i> of <i>Poland</i>;
+and <i>Gabriel Filippuci</i> of <i>Macerata</i>, so lately as in the Pontificate of
+<i>Clement</i> XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the
+Pope’s Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it
+must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs
+wou’d be oblig’d to pay, if he was dead.</p>
+
+<p>There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly
+honour one
+or<!--091.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span>
+other of the Pope’s Family with it who advanc’d them to the
+Purple; which is what they here call <i>Restitution</i>; and when they omit
+this Piece of Respect, they are accus’d of Ingratitude. <i>Clement</i> XII. has
+not yet made this <i>Restitution</i> to the <i>Albano</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> Family, tho’ he has
+promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer
+that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which
+he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the <i>Albani</i>,
+because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them,
+that he wou’d take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The
+<i>Albani</i> were oblig’d to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not
+give them much for the Hat they are like to have of <i>Clement</i> XII. for you
+are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is
+afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat
+vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion,
+and then to satisfy the <i>Albani</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they
+deny it. Be this as it will, there’s hardly an Instance that the Popes
+ever exercis’d this Act of Authority. <i>Clement</i> XI. had an Intention
+indeed to haue depriv’d Cardinal <i>Alberoni</i> of his Hat, because when the
+Cardinal was the Minister of <i>Spain</i>, he employ’d that Money against the
+Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the
+War against the <i>Turks</i>. But <i>Clement</i> XI. met with so much Opposition
+from the Sacred College, that he cou’d not accomplish it, and died.
+Whether <i>Clement</i> XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be
+able to deprive <i>Coscia</i>
+of<!--092.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span>
+his Hat, which is what he seems to be very
+much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great
+many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal <i>Coscia</i> is of the
+Purple, are not willing that he shou’d serve as an Example for the future.
+The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho’ it
+has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc’d. Cardinal
+<i>Coscia</i> is retir’d to <i>Naples</i>. He has been very much blam’d for quitting
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur’d me that
+he might have stay’d here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been
+the unfortunate Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>, I wou’d have retir’d, but not in the
+Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that
+he is now, they shou’d cite me long enough before I wou’d be seen at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>;
+and I think, whoever advis’d him to the contrary, was in the wrong<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>.</p>
+
+<!--093.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span></p>
+
+<p>You know that immediately after the Death of Pope <i>Benedict</i> XIII. the
+Populace ran to <i>Coscia</i>’s Palace, plunder’d it, and wou’d have torn the
+Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap’d by a Back-door; after
+which, he disguis’d himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come
+back again, or else he shou’d have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues,
+whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his
+Archbishoprick of <i>Benevento</i>, after the Election of the new Pope; but he
+did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and
+afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten’d him with
+the Castle of <i>St. Angelo</i>; whereupon he was frighten’d, and march’d out
+of the Country; which is charg’d upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of
+<i>Innocent</i> X. of the <i>Pamphili</i> Family, publish’d the 19th of <i>February</i>,
+1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the
+Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the
+Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon’d three times in the Space of
+fifteen Months, <i>viz.</i> once at the End of each six Months, and the last
+Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the
+Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv’d of
+the<!--094.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span>
+Hat. <i>Coscia</i> has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem
+inclin’d to return, tho’ his Acquaintance don’t stick to affirm that he
+will. Mean time, he has been depriv’d of the Archbishoprick of
+<i>Benevento</i>, which the Pope has conferr’d on<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> M. <i>Doria</i>, the first
+Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>
+complain’d of it bitterly, tho’ to no manner of Purpose. I question
+whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho’ the Pope were
+to give him his Passport: And really, what happen’d to M. <i>Targa</i>, his
+Brother, is enough to deter him; for this <i>Prelate</i> coming to <i>Venice</i>,
+after he had been at <i>Vienna</i>, soliciting the Emperor’s Protection for
+himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order’d him to return to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>;
+which, after having desir’d, and obtain’d Promise of a Safeguard for his
+Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two
+Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not
+to stir out of it without his Leave. <i>Targa</i> yields Obedience, and the
+Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all
+this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry’d him off to the
+Castle of <i>St. Angelo</i>; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope
+intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin’d, and can speak
+to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of
+<i>Clement</i> XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his
+Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the
+Holy See, we hear
+of<!--095.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span>
+nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men,
+or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others
+suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior <i>Sardini</i>, who was
+impeach’d of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King
+of <i>Sardinia</i>, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination
+to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was
+arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of
+<i>St. Angelo</i>, where he is kept a Prisoner of State<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>. Not many Days
+before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz’d, which he desir’d to
+have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus’d. Some
+Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify
+himself, if he cou’d; to which <i>Sardini</i> made Answer, That he had nothing
+to say; that the Pope shou’d be his Judge, and Cardinal <i>Corsini</i>, his
+Holiness’s Nephew, shou’d be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in
+no stead; he is still in Prison, and ’tis said, that the Pope will either
+behead or pardon him.</p>
+
+<p>Some time ago Cardinal <i>Ottoboni</i> made Interest for one <i>Nocera</i>, a Canon,
+who was in Trouble also upon <i>Sardini</i>’s Account; and he desir’d the Pope
+that he wou’d please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person
+of <i>Nocera</i>, who was retir’d to a Sanctuary at <i>Albano</i>. The Pope made
+Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry
+he<!--096.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span>
+cou’d not grant him his
+Request; but that he wou’d not charge his Conference with the Sin of
+having suffer’d Iniquity to pass with Impunity. ‘We are old, <i>said the
+Holy Father</i>; and our Age tells us, that it can’t be long before we shall
+appear at God’s Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that
+we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if
+we don’t let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether
+we shall live till To-morrow?’ ‘Your Holiness, <i>reply’d the Cardinal</i>,
+ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great
+Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the
+other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of
+Justice, and ’tis to be hop’d, that he will also permit you to run that of
+Mercy.’</p>
+
+<p>I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had
+from Cardinal <i>Imperiali</i>, who has had the Purple so long, that he is
+actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of
+<i>Innocent</i> X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the
+Ecclesiastical State without the Pope’s Leave, he told me, That <i>Innocent</i>
+X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal <i>Astalli</i>,
+his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to
+all the Rout was this: After the <i>Portuguese</i> had shook off the Yoke of
+the <i>Spaniards</i>, and restor’d the <i>Braganza</i> Family to the Throne, the
+King of <i>Spain</i>, who always took the Title of King of <i>Portugal</i>,
+pretended that ’twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and
+Benefices that became vacant in <i>Portugal</i>. The Pope was at that time in
+so much Subjection to the <i>Spaniards</i>, that this Plea of their Monarch
+perplex’d him sadly. At last he thought
+of<!--097.png--><span class="pagenum">94</span>
+extricating himself out of
+this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the
+<i>Portuguese</i> Bishopricks, and he resolv’d to assemble one with all Speed
+for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal
+Secretary of State, and the Cardinal <i>Astalli</i>, whom he injoin’d not to
+speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be
+summon’d for the next Day, the Ambassador of <i>Spain</i> made such an earnest
+Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The
+Minister therein told him, That he was inform’d of his Design; and at the
+same time protested against every thing that shou’d be done in the said
+Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope,
+very much incens’d that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had
+been betray’d by his Secretary of State, and he reproach’d him for it
+bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore,
+that he had not reveal’d it to the <i>Spaniard</i>; and he said moreover, That
+if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness’s Secret, it cou’d be only from
+Cardinal <i>Astalli</i>. He desir’d but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove
+his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent
+for one of the <i>Spanish</i> Ambassador’s <i>Valets de Chambre</i>, and promis’d
+him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou’d
+search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was
+in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal <i>Astalli</i>. The <i>Valet
+de Chambre</i> cou’d not stand the Temptation, but carry’d the fatal Letter
+to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope;
+whose Wrath was then wholly turn’d against <i>Astalli</i>, to such a Degree,
+that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have
+him<!--098.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>
+arrested
+the very next Day: But <i>Astalli</i> disappointed him of that Pleasure,
+escap’d the same Night in a <i>Felucca</i> from <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and sail’d for <i>Sicily</i>.
+Then it was that <i>Innocent</i> X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus’d
+<i>Astalli</i> to be summon’d, who indeed return’d to the Dominions of the Holy
+See; but he stay’d in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of <i>Naples</i>,
+where he was accompany’d by a Guard of two thousand <i>Spaniards</i>, who
+remain’d with him as long as the Pope liv’d, after whose Death <i>Astalli</i>
+return’d to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>. I have the Honour to be, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, Sept. 5, 1731.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you
+honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all
+the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected
+Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported
+to me; if I accuse wrongfully, ’tis owing to my Misinformation, or my
+Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can’t
+define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I
+will now relate them to you as they pass’d this Year.</p>
+
+<!--099.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On <i>Palm</i> Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of
+<i>Monte-Cavallo</i> to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the last <i>Wednesday</i> in <i>Lent</i>, the Cardinals went after Dinner to
+the Pope’s Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the <i>Tenebræ</i>,
+sung by the Pope’s Voices, without being accompany’d by Instruments. ’Tis
+perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos’d, and ’tis
+so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give
+Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope being somewhat indispos’d upon <i>Holy Thursday</i>, Cardinal
+<i>Barberini</i> officiated for him. The Cardinals repair’d in the Morning to
+the <i>Vatican</i> in <i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which
+the Cardinal <i>Barberini</i>, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in
+Mitres and white Copes, carry’d the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a
+Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into <i>Paul</i>’s Chapel, which was
+finely illuminated. There our Lord’s Body was deposited, after which the
+Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers
+Nations, dress’d in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all
+sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal <i>Barberini</i>, who
+sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and
+having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc’d some Collects, which were
+answer’d by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin,
+and went and wash’d the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which
+was carry’d by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip’d their Feet dry,
+he kiss’d them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the
+Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he
+reascended the
+Throne,<!--100.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>
+and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up
+the <i>Pater-noster</i>, and the Music finish’d it. This done, he went with the
+Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum’d his ordinary
+Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the
+Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was
+elegantly serv’d. The Pope’s Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if
+the Pope had been well, he wou’d have done the same himself. The Cardinals
+din’d also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most
+sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of
+certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests
+Table is defray’d by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both
+Tables is order’d by the Pope’s <i>Major Domo</i>. The Cardinal’s Beaufet is
+very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that
+is better dispos’d. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with ’em;
+which, ’tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that
+happen’d to Pope <i>Alexander</i> VI. and his Son <i>Cæsar Borgia</i>, Duke <i>de
+Valentinois</i>, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the
+Cardinal <i>Adrian de Cornetto</i>, order’d Wine that was poison’d to be serv’d
+up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said
+Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But <i>Cornetto</i> had
+the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and <i>Cæsar</i> suffer’d
+by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and
+calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was
+let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill’d them out each
+a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar’d,
+which<!--101.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span>
+kill’d the Pope; but
+<i>Cæsar</i>, having caus’d himself to be wrapp’d up in the Skin of a Mule,
+recover’d.</p>
+
+<p>After Dinner, the Cardinals return’d to <i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel, where they
+assisted at the <i>Tenebræ</i>, and the <i>Miserere</i>. This Day’s Ceremony of
+washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes.
+We find in the History of <i>France</i>, that <i>Robert</i> the <i>Pious</i>, he that was
+call’d King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two
+hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash’d their Feet, particularly
+upon Holy <i>Thursday</i>. So at <i>Vienna</i>, <i>Versailles</i>, in <i>Spain</i>, and at
+several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign
+Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.</p>
+
+<p>Upon good <i>Friday</i> in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at
+Divine Service in <i>Sixtus</i>’s Chapel; after which, they din’d together, but
+they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope’s Chaplains read the
+Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the <i>Miserere</i>, and
+then they all went down into St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, where, having form’d a
+Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel’d down upon Cushions of
+purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc’d the Reliques, which were held
+forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our
+Saviour’s Side was pierc’d, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of
+the Cross on which he was crucify’d.</p>
+
+<p>On <i>Saturday</i> the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of
+<i>Monte-Cavallo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Upon <i>Sunday</i>, which was the first Day of <i>Easter</i>, the Pope, dress’d in
+his <i>Pontificalibus</i>, was carry’d in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
+where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
+Priest. Then
+the<!--102.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>
+Pope was carry’d to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
+Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull <i>In Cœna Domini</i> with an
+audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
+against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
+After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir’d from the Castles
+of <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>, and <i>St. Angelo</i>, gave his Benediction twice to the
+Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
+led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
+and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
+Holy <i>Thursday</i> and Good <i>Friday</i>, while the Church is in Mourning for the
+Saviour of the World, the Pope’s Chapel is stripp’d of all Ornaments, the
+Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
+so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.</p>
+
+<p>Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
+that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s
+of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
+Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
+Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. <i>John</i> the <i>Baptist</i>.
+This of <i>Agnus Dei</i> is an old Custom in the Church. St. <i>Augustin</i> makes
+mention of it in his 118th Epistle. <i>Baronius</i> assures us, in his 8th
+Volume, that ’twas the Custom in his Time, upon the <i>Quasimodo Sundays</i>,
+to distribute among the People <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s consecrated by the Pope. And
+Cardinal <i>Bellarmine</i> says, that in 798, Pope <i>Leo</i> III. gave an <i>Agnus
+Dei</i> to the Emperor <i>Charlemain</i>, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn’d
+with
+precious<!--103.png--><span class="pagenum">100</span>
+Stones<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>. All the Popes consecrate <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s in the
+first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
+Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
+their Exaltation. <i>Clement</i> XII. perform’d the Ceremony on the <i>Wednesday</i>
+after <i>Easter</i>, in the great Hall of his Apartment at <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>,
+which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope’s
+Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
+between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
+his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
+to it, for the Ambassador of <i>Venice</i>, the Ladies, and other Persons of
+Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
+the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover’d with red Damask,
+there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
+solid Silver, full of
+Water,<!--104.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>
+placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
+gilt, Admirably carv’d by <i>Bernini</i>. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
+Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
+Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
+Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
+Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
+same, struck up the <i>Veni Spiritus Sancte</i>, which the Music carry’d on.
+Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
+was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
+Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp’d them into
+the Holy Water, and carry’d it to mix with the Water that was in the four
+Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
+and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
+two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The <i>Chamberlains of Honour</i>, and
+the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s in wooden Tubs,
+wash’d with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
+fill’d with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish’d them up again
+with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
+Prelates deliver’d to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
+Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
+retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
+they made threescore thousand <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s, which they say cost the
+Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.</p>
+
+<p>Upon <i>Quasimodo Sunday</i>, the Pope distributed the <i>Agnus</i>’s with very
+great Ceremony in the Chapel of <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>. He was carry’d in his
+Processional Chair from his Apartment to
+the<!--105.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>
+Chapel, where, being seated
+on his Throne, and the <i>Agnus Dei</i> having been perform’d by the Music, one
+of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the <i>Agnus</i>’s in a Silver Bason,
+preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
+Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter’d the
+Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, <i>Pater
+Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
+venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja.</i> To which the Choir
+answered, <i>Deo Gratias; Alleluja.</i> Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
+kneel’d down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
+as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope’s Throne, to whom
+he presented a Bason full of <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s, in little Packets, wrapp’d up
+in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
+Standers-by, who receiv’d them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
+only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.</p>
+
+<p>There’s a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
+are the <i>Roman</i> Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
+princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
+a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
+complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
+the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
+their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
+in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
+without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
+are pleas’d to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
+Gentlemen,<!--106.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span>
+who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
+Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
+Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
+like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
+follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
+and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
+carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
+a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
+Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
+pass by.</p>
+
+<p>The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
+of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex’d to
+<i>Nepotism</i> have been abolish’d, they have been oblig’d to humble
+themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
+correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope’s Nieces did not
+give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
+general were oblig’d to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
+nor did the Nieces go to any body’s House, but enjoy’d all the Honours of
+Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
+not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
+their Visits. Indeed the Princesses <i>Corsini</i> are extraordinary civil and
+complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho’ the Pope has
+declar’d their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
+the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
+vastly pleas’d with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
+it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.</p>
+
+<!--107.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Some Days ago an <i>Englishman</i>, one <i>Thirems</i>, who has been a long time in
+the Service of the Great Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>, and is very much attach’d to
+the <i>Corsini</i> Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
+the Behaviour of the <i>Corsini</i> Ladies was very much applauded by the
+Nobility, but as much dislik’d by the Princes. ‘What! <i>said the Pope</i>, Do
+the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
+when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
+now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho’ I
+have declar’d my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
+old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.’</p>
+
+<p>I would pardon the <i>Roman</i> Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy’d any
+solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
+Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the <i>Sbirri</i> to arrest
+them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
+this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
+Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
+and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
+because the greatest Part of the <i>Roman</i> Gentry are so much degenerated
+from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
+Fondness for <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
+delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
+them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
+Inferiors in Birth.</p>
+
+<p>Nor do the <i>Roman</i> Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
+their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
+no less than two dozen; but they live
+very<!--108.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span>
+meanly, so that not one of
+them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
+most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
+for as soon as the <i>Angelus</i> has sounded, all Ceremonies at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> are over,
+the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
+Compliments at meeting are set aside.</p>
+
+<p>The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
+their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
+a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
+they call <i>Lucky Handsel</i>; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
+Month of <i>August</i>, which is what they call <i>la Ferra Gusta</i>, and again
+when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
+find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
+Money.</p>
+
+<p>The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
+Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
+who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
+five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp’d to give their
+Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
+the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp’d at the very same
+Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
+the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
+little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
+going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain <i>English</i>
+Dutchess, who having travell’d in that manner at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, would fain have
+introduced the Fashion at <i>Paris</i> too; but she was forbid to make that
+Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
+<!--109.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span>with
+so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
+Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
+but seldom make use of them. The Marquis <i>Sudarini</i>, who has lately
+match’d his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
+which he gave 7000 <i>Roman</i> Crowns, and there are many others that cost
+more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and ’tis as much as a
+Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
+Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
+generally accompany’d by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
+with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
+Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
+are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
+part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
+a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
+as attain to the Honour of being a <i>Valet de Chambre</i>. When he is past his
+Service his Master <i>jubilées</i> him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
+and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
+Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
+what matters it, say they, how they look?</p>
+
+<p>This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
+they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
+maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for <i>Sundays</i>
+and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
+has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
+borrow’d of a
+Tallyman,<!--110.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span>
+shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
+Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn’d up behind his Ears,
+and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon’d indecent here to
+see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon’d Prostitutes
+are always attended with a Matron.</p>
+
+<p>The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform’d here with very great
+Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
+the Funerals of Cardinal <i>Buoncompagno</i>, Archbishop of <i>Bologna</i>, and the
+Prince <i>Ruspoli</i>. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
+the Church of St. <i>Andrew de Laval</i>, which was hung all over with Black.
+Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
+of the Church, dress’d in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn’d
+towards the Choir, and the Cardinal’s Hat at the Feet: Four <i>Valets de
+Chambre</i> stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
+Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas’d: There were an hundred great Tapers
+or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
+Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
+the Cardinals enter’d the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
+Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
+the Deceased, where they said a <i>Pater</i>, and the Prayer <i>Absolve Domine,
+&amp;c.</i> and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
+Corpse: The Cardinals retir’d after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos’d
+till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
+Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos’d in
+another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
+<i>Ruspoli</i>’s Corpse was expos’d in the
+Church<!--111.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span>
+of St. <i>Laurence Lucini</i>,
+which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal <i>de
+Buoncompagno</i> was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased’s
+Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the <i>Italians</i> say, ’tis barbarous to
+oblige Relations to attend each other’s Funerals, as is the Fashion with
+us.</p>
+
+<p>But tho’ they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
+more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman’s Mourning is black from
+Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
+which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
+Complexion. The Pope’s Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
+nearest Relations; for the <i>Romans</i> reckon it so great a Happiness for a
+Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
+Kindred of a Pope.</p>
+
+<p>They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
+sooner. ’Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
+whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow’d is always done
+with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
+their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
+with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn’d
+throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
+are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
+adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
+in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play’d off in
+the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
+Expence of the Parishioners. The <i>Romans</i> have a singular Taste for all
+Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
+Cockneys as the
+<i>Parisians</i>,<!--112.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span>
+and every little Novelty makes them run to
+it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho’ all that they
+see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
+Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover’d
+with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There’s
+scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
+these Fireworks.</p>
+
+<p>The Tribunal of the <i>Rota</i> is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
+the chief Tribunal in <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
+extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
+It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; <i>viz.</i>
+one <i>German</i>, one <i>French</i>, two <i>Spaniards</i>, one <i>Bolognese</i>, one
+<i>Ferrarese</i>, one <i>Venetian</i>, one <i>Tuscan</i>, one <i>Milanese</i>, and three
+<i>Romans</i>. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
+President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
+Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
+made to the Tribunal of the <i>Rota</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor of <span class="smcap">Rome</span> is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop <i>in
+partibus</i>; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
+and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown’d Heads<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>; tho’
+I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
+saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
+Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
+require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
+Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
+Officers; and the Provost, who is call’d
+the<!--113.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span>
+<i>Barrigello</i>, with 300
+Sergeants, or <i>Sbirri</i>. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
+who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
+saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
+know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
+by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
+Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
+Gold Colour: The Governor of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and the other Prelates, as the <i>Major
+Domo</i>, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
+abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
+Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
+give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
+the condemn’d Malefactors; and he must never be absent from <span class="smcap">Rome</span>: One of
+the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
+it but to be made a Cardinal.</p>
+
+<p>Another Magistrate of Note at <span class="smcap">Rome</span> is the <i>Senator</i>: The <i>Romans</i> pretend
+that he represents the ancient Senate of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>; if so, ’tis but a poor
+Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
+Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
+styl’d Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
+Criminal, or <i>Fiscal</i>, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
+to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
+between the Citizens and Inhabitants of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>: For this End he has also
+under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
+at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress’d in
+a long Robe of Gold Brocade
+lin’d<!--114.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span>
+with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
+Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope’s Chapel, and goes, like the
+Governor of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
+Cardinal Nephew of what has pass’d at his Bar; he is then dress’d in a
+long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
+Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
+of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
+great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
+Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.</p>
+
+<p>Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
+Sorts of Punishments here, <i>viz.</i> the <i>Strappa Corda</i>, and the Gibbet. The
+first, tho’ ’tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
+itself; the Malefactor being ty’d with his two Hands together to a Rope,
+by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
+a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
+to be hang’d, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
+Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
+Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
+Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
+Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
+<i>Where is such a one?</i> naming the Criminal that is to be condemn’d. <i>Here
+he is</i>, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. <i>Open the
+Doors to us</i>, say the Comforters; <i>he is in a bad State there, we will
+remove him to a Place where he shall be better</i>. The Turnkey opens the
+Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
+with them; and being guarded by a Company of the <i>Sbirri</i>, they put him
+<!--115.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span>in
+the middle, and carry him thro’ several Galleries and Turnings towards
+the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
+the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
+Name, says to him, <i>You—there is your Sentence</i>; and at the same time
+throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
+it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
+Moment the <i>Sbirri</i> withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
+Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
+Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
+the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
+<i>If he is willing to confess</i>: If he says, Yes, as very few <i>Italians</i> die
+willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
+the best Advice that he can.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Italians</i> generally make their <i>Exit</i> like good Christians, but ’tis
+with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn’d to die some Years ago
+for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon <i>Sodom</i>, would not
+hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal <i>Banchieri</i>, at that time
+only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of
+God to pardon his Sins; <i>What!</i> said the Criminal to him, <i>Would you have
+me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don’t
+know</i>, said the Cardinal, <i>of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit
+such a Crime; but if there are, they don’t plead guilty in the Face of
+Justice</i>. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to
+him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. <i>True</i>, reply’d the
+Convict, <i>but they are not all hang’d</i>.</p>
+
+<p>After a Criminal has confess’d, he receives the Sacraments, and the
+Comforters continue with
+him<!--116.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>
+till the next Day. At Ten o’Clock, which is
+the Hour of Execution, he is convey’d in a Cart to the Gallows, to which
+he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they
+are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a
+Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the
+Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the
+Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and
+then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his
+Pain. After he is expir’d, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even
+in the Pope’s Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a
+Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at
+length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury’d like another
+Man.</p>
+
+<p>You’ll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal
+Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to
+write, so that I hope you won’t take it ill that I add no more to this. I
+am, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Rome, October 10, 1731.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put
+to me in your last.</p>
+
+<!--117.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p>
+
+<p>You desire, <i>Sir</i>, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy
+Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that
+such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro’ a Perspective in all
+his Glory and Grandeur, shou’d be able to paint him? No, Sir, the
+Successors of St. <i>Peter</i> are not like other Princes: None but such of
+their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them
+thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them
+always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell
+me, that in all Courts ’tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this,
+one may judge of Princes by their Actions. ’Tis very true, yet this gives
+us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without
+meaning either.</p>
+
+<p>To judge by outward Appearances, <i>Clement</i> XII. may be rank’d among the
+greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was
+Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that
+Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt
+in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances,
+which were very much disorder’d by the Ministers of <i>Benedict</i> XIII.
+renders him an Œconomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He has
+the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus’d of being
+more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of <i>Parma</i>, (which they give out
+here was devolv’d to the Holy See by the death of the Duke <i>Francis
+Farnese</i>) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the
+Constitution in <i>France</i>: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but
+he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews,
+whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given them
+<!--118.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span>very
+little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to every
+body; he liv’d magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be a
+prodigal Pope, than a <i>saving</i> one: He was civil and affable, but not very
+ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought that
+was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent his
+Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the <i>Romans</i>,
+who had other Reasons not to be pleas’d with his Election, said he rose to
+the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet.</p>
+
+<p>Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is
+desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own
+Minister. But ’tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and
+he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ’d in State
+Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all
+this it were to be wish’d, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that
+he had been chose Pope in the place of <i>Benedict</i> XIII. But ’tis the
+Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass’d
+with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: ’Tis
+pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that
+constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the
+good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho’ he has not been sixteen Months in
+the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not
+generally approv’d of. Among other coarse <i>Pasquinades</i> that were utter’d
+upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix’d to several Gates of the
+Pontifical Palace, <i>Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti,
+ed un Minchione, <span class="f">i. e.</span> Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen
+and one Fool</i>. Those five Cardinals were Signior <i>Guadagno</i>, the Pope’s
+Nephew,<!--119.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span>
+formerly a barefooted <i>Carmelite</i>; Signior <i>Doria Maestro di
+Camera</i>, Archbishop of <i>Benevento</i>; Signior <i>Gentili</i>, a <i>Datary</i>, who had
+been formerly <i>Secretary of the Congregation of the Bishops, and the
+Regular Clergy</i>, a Post which, tho’ the very next Step to a Cardinal’s
+Cap, the Pope had made him resign for the Office of a <i>Datary</i>, which is
+but a mean Commission; Signior <i>Ferrayo</i>, and Signior <i>Bichi</i>, both
+Nuncios in <i>Portugal</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The last is noted for the Broils that he occasion’d between the Holy See
+and the Court of <i>Lisbon</i>: The King of <i>Portugal</i> being disgusted with
+this Nuncio for having defrauded him of the Customs, by entring Goods upon
+his own Account, which he sold afterwards to the Prejudice of the
+<i>Portuguese</i> Merchants, and being moreover exasperated with this Prelate
+for assuming more Authority to himself, than his Predecessors had ever
+done, demanded of <i>Clement</i> XI. to recall him; and upon that Pope’s Death
+he repeated his Instances to <i>Innocent</i> XIII. who at length consented to
+his Demand: But then the King, for what Cause I know not, alter’d his
+Mind, and declared he was not willing that <i>Bichi</i> should leave his Court
+till the Term of his Nunciature was expired. And as the Pope had nominated
+M. <i>Ferrayo</i> to relieve <i>Bichi</i>, and was obstinate for the Return of the
+latter to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, the King order’d his Ambassador to demand of the Pope for
+what Reason he recall’d <i>Bichi</i>; and in case the Holy Father should
+declare that it was to punish his Nuncio, He injoin’d him to say, that
+this Minister was intirely innocent of the Matters laid to his Charge in
+<i>Portugal</i>; but that if, on the contrary, the Pope should give him to
+understand, that he recall’d <i>Bichi</i>, to give him such an Office in the
+Apostolical Palace as might secure him a Cardinal’s Hat, he the Ambassador
+should then make Answer, that His <i>Portuguese</i>
+Majesty<!--120.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span>
+was of Opinion,
+the Dignity of Nuncio at his Court ought to procure the Purple for all
+those who resided with him in that Quality; and that therefore his Majesty
+would never suffer M. <i>Bichi</i> to depart from <i>Lisbon</i>, till he was
+declared a Cardinal.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope exclaimed against the King’s new Demand, repeated his Orders to
+<i>Bichi</i> to return to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and sent away M. <i>Ferrayo</i> for <i>Portugal</i>. But
+the King would not let <i>Bichi</i> go out of the Kingdom, nor <i>Ferrayo</i> come
+into it; and <i>Bichi</i> himself refus’d to obey the Holy Father, who
+threaten’d him with Excommunication, but the Prelate, being sure of the
+King’s Protection, did not much value the Apostolical Censures. The King
+in short continu’d to solicit the Hat for him strenuously; but <i>Innocent</i>
+XIII. would not hear it mention’d, alledging that it was not proper for
+him, who, in Quality of Cardinal Protector of <i>Portugal</i>, had impeach’d
+<i>Bichi</i> at the Holy See, to advance him to the Purple. <i>Benedict</i> XIII.
+who was of a beneficent and pacific Disposition, no sooner came to the
+Pontificate, but he wrote a Letter with his own Hand to the King of
+<i>Portugal</i>, wherein he promis’d him the Hat for <i>Bichi</i>. The Sacred
+College, when they were inform’d of the Pope’s Intentions, made smart
+Remonstrances to him, and every Cardinal in particular represented to him
+how unworthy <i>Bichi</i> was of the Purple. Cardinal <i>Corsini</i>, the present
+Pope, was the Man that declar’d himself against that Prelate with the
+greatest Warmth; for he told the Pope, that notwithstanding his Respect
+for his Holiness, he would never consent that <i>Bichi</i>, that dishonourable,
+that faithless Man, (which were the Epithets wherewith he honour’d him)
+should be one of his Brethren. In a Word, the whole Sacred College shew’d
+so much Disgust at the Thoughts of this Promotion, that the Pope was
+oblig’d to revoke the
+Promise<!--121.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>
+he had made to the King of <i>Portugal</i>. That
+Monarch, incensed to see himself made a Jest of by the Priests, recalled
+his Ambassador and Envoy then at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and ordered his Subjects to leave
+that City, and to have nothing more to do with the Holy See. And the Pope,
+in his Turn, recalled <i>Ferrayo</i>, who still continued in <i>Spain</i>, on the
+Frontier of <i>Portugal</i>, and summoned <i>Bichi</i> to <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, whither at last he
+was determined to return.</p>
+
+<p>During this, <i>Benedict</i> XIII. died, and <i>Clement</i> XII. succeeding him,
+<i>Bichi</i>, who is his Kinsman, went to <i>Sienna</i>, the Place of his Birth.
+There it was that he heard of his Promotion, which was made on the 24th of
+<i>September</i> last, but not without strong Debates in the Sacred College. A
+great number of the Cardinals put the Holy Father in mind, that he was
+formerly the most zealous Stickler against <i>Bichi</i>: And in the Consistory
+wherein the Pope propos’d him, a Cardinal gave his Opinion, that the
+Prelate might be admitted into the Sacred College in Quality of a
+Penitent, The Pope happening to say, that he knew of no other Way to come
+to an Accommodation with the King of <i>Portugal</i>, than by making <i>Bichi</i> a
+Cardinal; one of the Cardinals made Answer, ‘I question whether the
+promoting of <i>Bichi</i> will set us to Rights with <i>Portugal</i>; but let it
+happen as it may, ’twill be, at the worst, but one Hat more ill bestow’d.’</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Romans</i> actually pine for an Accommodation with <i>Portugal</i>; for the
+Ambassadors of that Crown have always expended great Sums here, especially
+since the Accession of the present King, who has caus’d a great deal of
+Money to be laid out here in Statues, Pictures, and other Things of Value.
+’Tis reckon’d upon the whole, that the Absence of the <i>Portuguese</i> is a
+Loss to the City
+of<!--122.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span>
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span> of above a Million of <i>Roman</i> Crowns in a Year.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope’s Nephews are like their Uncle, Men of great Sincerity, Honour
+and Probity; but whether ’tis owing to the Indolence of their Tempers, or
+to their Want of Interest with their Uncle, they serve nobody, and know
+not the Pleasure of doing Good. The Cardinal, who should naturally have
+the most Credit, is he that has the least: He is penurious to the last
+Degree<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>. Before he was made a Cardinal and Minister, People conceiv’d a
+high Idea of him; they believ’d that a Person who had travelled so much as
+he had done, and who had been many Years employ’d by the Great Duke in
+<i>France</i>, and at the Congress of <i>Cambray</i>, must needs be well versed in
+Business; therefore they apply this Verse to him,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Tel brille au second rang, qui s’eclipse au premier.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 18em;">i. e.</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>He shines so much in the second Class, as eclipses him in the first.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don’t look upon him as a
+Minister. He is so reserved, that ’tis quite disgusting; and when he
+grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who
+receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will
+<!--123.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span>have
+very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies.</p>
+
+<p>In the same Consistory wherein the Pope made <i>Bichi</i> a Cardinal, the Holy
+Father talk’d a great deal about the Succession of <i>Parma</i>. He complain’d
+in general Terms of the Emperor, for arrogating to himself those
+Prerogatives relating to the Dominions of <i>Parma</i>, which were only due to
+the Holy See. He acquainted the Sacred College with every thing that he
+had done for maintaining the Rights of the Church; he said, that as soon
+as he was informed that the Duchess of <i>Parma</i> was really not with Child,
+he ordered his <i>Nuncio</i> at <i>Parma</i> to take Possession of the Dominions,
+that were devolved to the Holy See by the Extinction of the Male Line of
+the <i>Farnese</i> Family; that his <i>Nuncio</i> had executed his Orders; but that
+<i>Stampa</i>, the Emperor’s General and Commissary, had caus’d an Edict to be
+publish’d, whereby, in the Name of the Emperor, he forbad all the Subjects
+of <i>Parma</i> from owning any other Sovereign, but him to whom his Imperial
+Majesty shou’d give the Investiture of the Duchy. The Pope said, he was
+sorry when he heard <i>Stampa</i> had taken that Step; but that he expected
+from the Emperor’s Justice and Piety, that he wou’d not approve of the
+Conduct of his General, and that he wou’d not do any thing contrary to the
+incontestable Claim of the Holy See to the Dominions of the <i>Farnese</i>
+Family. The Cardinals returned a very modest Answer to the Pope, thanking
+him for the Endeavours he had us’d to maintain the Rights of the Holy See,
+and praying him to continue them. The Cardinals <i>Cienfuegos</i> and
+<i>Bentivoglio</i>, being inform’d of all the Complaints which the Pope
+intended to make in this Consistory, took care not to be there. These
+Gentlemen are extremely angry with
+the<!--124.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span>
+Emperor; ‘What! <i>said they</i>, to
+have no more Respect for the Pope and the Holy See, to invade the Estates
+of the Church, and dispose of them as he pleases, are these Actions
+becoming an Emperor, Protector of the Catholic Faith?’ Really, to hear how
+they talk, one wou’d think the Emperor had actually taken all they had
+from ’em; tho’ I am persuaded, that if he would but give them the Duchy of
+<i>Parma</i>, they wou’d consent to his being a <i>Jansenist</i>.</p>
+
+<p>You desire, Sir, to be inform’d of the Reception that is given here to
+Ambassadors. I shou’d have done this long before you desired it, if I had
+seen any Ambassador go to an Audience of the Pope, besides the <i>Maltese</i>,
+who has not so grand a Reception here as the Ambassadors of Crown’d Heads.
+’Twas on the second <i>Sunday</i> in <i>Lent</i>, in the Afternoon, that the
+Ambassador of <i>Malta</i>, who has resided here six Years in Quality of
+Ambassador of that Order, made his Entry as Tributary Ambassador
+Extraordinary. This Minister, repairing without any Retinue to the
+Vineyard of Pope <i>Julius</i>, without the Gate <i>del Popoli</i>, was complimented
+there, on the Part of the Pope, by the <i>Major Domo</i>, and the oldest
+Prelate; and on the Part of the Cardinals, and principal Nobility, by
+their Gentlemen. After this, the Cavalcade was made with more Order than
+is commonly observ’d here at public Ceremonies. First came the several
+Coaches and Six of the Cardinals, Princes, and other Persons of
+Distinction, following one another without Observation of the respective
+Ranks of their Owners. Then came two of the Ambassador’s Grooms on
+Horseback, who were follow’d by four cover’d Waggons, and a Couple of
+Field Carriages, cover’d with Tapestry, that was embroidered with his
+Excellency’s Coat of Arms. Next came the
+Ambassador’s<!--125.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span>
+Master of the
+Horse, follow’d by six led Horses, two Trumpets, with the Lackeys, <i>Valets
+de Chambre</i>, Pages, and Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador, all on
+Horseback. These were follow’d by the chief Lackeys of the Cardinals
+riding upon Mules, and carrying their Master’s red Hats flung over their
+Shoulders; and after these came the Cardinals Gentlemen, who were follow’d
+by a Detachment of Light-horse. The Chamberlains of Honour follow’d riding
+upon Mules. The Knights of <i>Malta</i> on Horseback rode just before the
+Ambassador, who was supported by the <i>Major Domo</i>, and Signior <i>Colonna</i>,
+the oldest Prelate. His Excellency was preceded by twelve running Footmen
+in his Livery, and he walked in the Middle of a Couple of Files of the
+hundred <i>Switzers</i> of the Pope’s Guard. Three of the Ambassador’s Coaches
+and Six clos’d the March. The whole Train pass’d thro’ the chief Streets
+of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, and accompany’d the Ambassador to his Palace, where his
+Excellency treated all the Company with Refreshments.</p>
+
+<p>On the Day of Audience, the Ambassador went in his Equipage to the Palace
+of <i>Monte-Cavallo</i>, attended by the Coaches of the Cardinals and the
+Nobility. He was receiv’d at the Top of the Stairs by the <i>Major Domo</i>,
+who conducted him into that called the Prince’s Apartment. The Ambassador
+having waited there a little Time, two Masters of the Ceremonies came to
+acquaint him, that his Holiness was ready to admit him to an Audience in
+the Consistory then sitting. The Ambassador went thither, conducted by the
+Masters of the Ceremonies; and Signior <i>Acquaviva</i>, the <i>Major Domo</i>,
+received him at the Entrance of the Hall of the Consistory, and conducted
+him to the Entrance of the Court fronting the Pope. The Ambassador fell on
+his Knees,
+and<!--126.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span>
+made a profound Obeisance to the Pope, who gave him his
+Blessing. Then he fell on his Knees again in the Middle of the Court, and
+the third Time at the Pope’s Feet, to whom he made his Speech kneeling. In
+this Posture he also delivered the Letter from the Grand Master to the
+Holy Father, who gave it to a Prelate, ordering him to read it. The
+Ambassador arose, and having crossed the Court, saluting the Cardinals on
+the Right and Left, he fell on his Knees at the Entrance of the Court,
+opposite to the Holy Father. There he heard the Grand Master’s Letter
+read, and afterwards a very long Speech in <i>Latin</i>, which an Abbat, who
+was a Knight of <i>Malta</i>, made in the Name of the Order, upon his Knees.
+The Prelate had no sooner read the Letter, but he answered the Speech in
+<i>Latin</i>. The Ambassador, who was still on his Knees, arose, after the
+Prelate had ended his Speech; went and kneel’d again at the Pope’s Feet,
+which he kiss’d, and then presented to his Holiness the Knights of
+<i>Malta</i>, who had accompany’d him to the Audience, and who all kiss’d the
+Holy Father’s Feet. The Pope, rising from his Seat, retir’d to his
+Apartment; but the Ambassador stay’d in the Hall of the Consistory, till
+all the Cardinals were gone out. He then returned to his Palace, where he
+gave a grand Repast to the Knights of his Order. The next and the
+following Days, he made his Visits of Ceremony to the Cardinals. Their
+Eminencies don’t give Precedence to the Ambassadors; but bating that only,
+they treat them as their Equals.</p>
+
+<p>I have been assured, that the Ambassadors Extraordinary of Kings are
+lodged three Days in the Pontifical Palace, during which they have the
+Honour to dine once with the Holy Father. If I continue here till the
+Arrival of the Duke of <i>St. Aignan</i>, the Ambassador of <i>France</i>, who is
+every<!--127.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span>
+Day expected, I will give you an Account how he is received; for
+tho’ these Ceremonies are printed here, I shall be willing to have ocular
+Demonstration of the Things that I write to you.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the public Functions at this Place, there is none more august, and
+more solemn, than the Procession with the Holy Sacrament, when ’tis
+carry’d by the Pope. Upon <i>Corpus Christi</i> Day, the Holy Father was placed
+in an Arm-chair, without a Back to it, with a Desk before him, upon which
+he laid the Pyx that contained the Holy Sacrament. His Cope, which was
+very long, and very wide, so cover’d the Desk and the Chair, that the Pope
+seemed to be kneeling. His Head was uncovered, and in this Posture he was
+carry’d by eight Men. In my whole Life, I never saw any thing more
+exemplary than the Countenance of the Pope during the Ceremony, his Face
+being the very Picture of Contrition and Devotion. The Procession set out
+from St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, attended by all the Fraternities, the Monastic
+Orders, the <i>Roman</i> Nobility, the Conservators of <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, the Governor of
+<span class="smcap">Rome</span>, the Chapter of St. <i>Peter</i>, and all the Prelates and Bishops. Three
+<i>Tiara</i>’s, and as many Mitres, adorn’d with Pearls and Diamonds, were
+carry’d before the Holy Father. The Pope was environed with the hundred
+<i>Swiss</i> of his Guards, all in Armour, and by the Officers of his Chamber;
+and the Procession was clos’d by the Light-horse, and Cuirassiers on
+Horseback. The Colonnade of St. <i>Peter</i>, and the Streets, were hung with
+Tapestry, and cover’d with Canvas, to keep off the Heat of the Sun. As the
+Pope passed by the House where the Family of the <i>Stuarts</i> liv’d, he gave
+to those Princes the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament. The Holy Father’s
+Nieces were in a neighbouring House;
+but<!--128.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span>
+they did not receive that
+Honour, it being reserved only for Sovereigns.</p>
+
+<p>You seem, Sir, to be so much prejudiced against the holy Office of the
+Inquisition, that I must endeavour to convince you of the mistaken Notion,
+which, I presume to say, you have conceived upon that Head. Honest People
+have no more Reason to dread this Tribunal, than any of the other Courts
+of Justice. They tell a thousand Stories of it in our Part of the World,
+and especially among the <i>Protestants</i>, which are absolute Falsehoods. Be
+but an honest Man; speak of God and the Saints with all due Respect, or at
+least don’t offer to insult them; give no public Scandal; and you have
+nothing to fear from the Holy Office. To speak the Truth, will not a Man
+in all the Christian Countries, that is notoriously impious in Word or
+Deed, will he not be taken to Talk by the Consistories, and by the Law? I
+own, for my part, that I don’t see wherein that Barbarity, and that
+Inhumanity consists, which the Holy Office is charg’d with in <i>Protestant</i>
+Countries; on the contrary, it seems to me to be the mildest Tribunal in
+the World. Let me be guilty of the greatest Injuries to God and Religion,
+in Thought, Word or Deed; if I do but go and confess my Crimes to the Holy
+Office, and tell them I repent of my Wickedness and Folly, the Father
+Commissary will represent the Horror of my Sins to me, will exhort me, for
+the Salvation of my Soul, to behave and think better for the future, and
+at last will absolve me. Where now is that <i>Protestant</i> Tribunal, which is
+content with a voluntary Confession? Instead of absolving the Penitent,
+don’t they condemn him to Imprisonment, and bodily Pains?</p>
+
+<p>For these sixteen Months that I have been at <span class="smcap">Rome</span>, I have not heard of any
+one’s being
+arrested<!--129.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>
+by the Holy Office; on the contrary, I have seen
+Acts of Clemency perform’d by this Tribunal, so much run down, which
+perhaps the Consistory of <i>Geneva</i> would never have done. I had not long
+been here, but there came one <i>Pallas</i>, a Native of <i>Toulon</i>, and Captain
+in <i>France</i>, who brought a young Woman with him, whom he said he had
+ravish’d; he desir’d a License of the Vicar to marry her, which was
+granted. But some Months after, there comes a Woman, who appear’d to be
+the Wife of <i>Pallas</i>, and the Mother of the young Creature that he had but
+just married, and who was ready to lie in. <i>Pallas</i>, perceiving his Crime
+on the Brink of being detected, goes and reveals the whole to the Holy
+Office, which first gave him Protection for his Person, and in a few Days
+after acquitted him, injoining him at the same time to take his first Wife
+again. This <i>Pallas</i> dying not many Days after, his two Wives went to Law
+for their Jointure. I question now whether this Officer would have been
+acquitted by a Parliament of <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Congregation of the Holy Office was established by Pope <i>Paul</i> III. at
+the Solicitation of the Cardinal <i>John Peter Caraffa</i>, who afterwards,
+becoming Pope, by the Name of <i>Paul</i> IV. made a remarkable Addition to the
+Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, <i>Pius</i> V. reduced it to its
+present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a
+Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are
+called <i>Consultori &amp; Qualificatori del Santo Officio</i>. Among those are
+included a Conventual, the General of the <i>Dominicans</i>, the Master of the
+Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the
+Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes
+Cognizance of the Causes of
+Heresy,<!--130.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span>
+and of such novel Opinions as are
+repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of
+Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked
+Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits
+twice a Week, <i>viz.</i> on <i>Wednesdays</i> in the Convent of <i>Minerva</i>, and on
+<i>Thursdays</i> in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest
+Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper
+of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no
+Proposals but what they think proper.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church, and there
+live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and
+other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are
+try’d, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office
+acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the
+Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive
+Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation.</p>
+
+<p>I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the
+<i>Romans</i> in particular, and the <i>Italians</i> in general, I mean its to the
+reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of <i>Italy</i>.
+That the <i>Romans</i> hate the <i>Florentines</i>, I think I have told you more
+than once; but that’s not all, for they as heartily hate the <i>Neapolitans</i>
+and the <i>Genoese</i>. They commonly say, that there must be seven <i>Jews</i> to
+make one <i>Genoese</i>, and seven <i>Genoese</i> to make one <i>Florentine</i>. ’Tis
+unaccountable how the People of <i>Italy</i> can so hate one another. I can’t
+imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does
+them; for, in short, ’tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to
+another, but it diffuses its Poison to the
+Towns<!--131.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span>
+that are subject to one
+and the same Sovereign. These People don’t consider that they form one and
+the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be
+both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek
+to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid
+Support of their Liberty.</p>
+
+<p>To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho’ our <i>Germany</i> is divided
+into many more Dominions than <i>Italy</i> is, we do however form a Body
+against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties.
+The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor’s Will; and their own Interest,
+and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with
+one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the <i>Italian</i>
+Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a
+Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview
+with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to
+adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between <i>Philip</i> IV.
+and <i>Lewis</i> XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act
+towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful
+Kingdoms? ’Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the
+Governments and Towns of <i>Italy</i>, that has made them for a long time the
+Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good
+Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature
+has furnish’d them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don’t defend,
+’tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of
+all Dominions is determin’d, would not have it so.</p>
+
+<p>Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you
+again, much less when
+I<!--132.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span>
+shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho’
+there’s scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do
+you but render me like for like, and be assur’d that nobody in the World
+is more strictly than I am, <i>Yours, &amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXV.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Road from <i>Rome</i> to <span class="smcap">Loretto</span> has been so fully describ’d, that I think
+I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of
+the <i>Santa Casa</i>, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the
+Place where it now stands. If you would be inform’d of the Treasure of
+this House, look into the Voyages of <i>Misson</i>, who has given a large
+Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much
+increas’d, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it.
+The Queen of <i>France</i> has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for
+the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth
+of the Dauphin.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Loretto</i> to <span class="smcap">Bologna</span> the Road is good, and ’tis a fine fruitful
+Country; I stay’d three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see
+the Cardinal <i>Grimani</i>, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a
+Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected
+Behaviour.<!--133.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span>
+He has been <i>Internuncio</i> at <i>Brussels</i>, <i>Nuncio</i> at
+<i>Cologne</i>, and in <i>Poland</i>, and in this Quality he resided at <i>Vienna</i>,
+when he was advanc’d to the Purple. I knew him at all those <i>Nunciatures</i>;
+I saw him at <i>Rome</i>, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have
+now seen him again at <i>Bologna</i>, and find he is the same Man now he is
+both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an <i>Internuncio</i><a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>. For
+’tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the <i>Apennine</i> Hills a
+second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all
+Thoughts of being at <i>Leghorn</i> at the Arrival of the Fleets from <i>Spain</i>
+and <i>England</i>, I have been at <span class="smcap">Florence</span>, and have had the Honour to wait on
+the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly
+paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at <i>Dusseldorp</i>, and
+she was now pleas’d to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of
+Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very
+retir’d, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the
+Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince’s Equipage.</p>
+
+<p>I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great
+Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an
+Audience of him; yet I attain’d to that Honour at the very Time when I
+least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress’s Apartment, I
+met one of the Great Duke’s <i>Valets de Chambre</i>,
+who<!--134.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span>
+came to tell me,
+That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz’d
+me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he
+convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the
+<i>Valet de Chambre</i> introduc’d me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke
+sitting upright in Bed, accompany’d by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on
+but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse
+Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear’d with Snuff, and truly there was
+nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in
+Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain’d
+Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv’d me however
+with great Marks of Goodness, reproach’d me because I had not yet desired
+to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very
+ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince
+remember’d he had known my Father, and he call’d to mind, that when he was
+at <i>Berlin</i>, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask’d me what News
+from the Court of <i>Prussia</i>? and wanted to know all the Alterations that
+had been made there since his Time: He talk’d to me of the Court of
+<i>Rome</i>, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy
+Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master
+of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a
+gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand
+Duke said, ’twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for ’twas no more
+than Two o’Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which
+I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a
+Bottle which was by his Bed-side. ’Twas to no Purpose for me
+to<!--135.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span>
+protest,
+that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another,
+and after that a third. The Great Duke assum’d no State upon Account of
+his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me.
+I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good
+Luck would have it, <i>Joannino</i>, his favourite <i>Valet de Chambre</i>, came in,
+and whisper’d something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a
+serious Air, and soon after dismiss’d me, but charg’d me not to go from
+<span class="smcap">Florence</span> before I had receiv’d his Commands. <i>Make yourself as merry as
+you can</i>, said the Prince; <i>but be sure not to go away without taking year
+Leave of me</i>. Two Hours after I return’d to my Inn, his Royal Highness
+sent me a Present of Fowls, <i>Bologna</i> Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and
+other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most
+excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three
+Months.</p>
+
+<p>I stay’d four Days, expecting the Great Duke’s Orders; but as none came in
+all that Time, I desir’d his Favourite <i>Joannino</i> to ask him if he had any
+Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir’d I would stay
+two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was
+arriv’d from <i>Leghorn</i>, which brought him News, that the <i>Spanish</i> Fleet
+had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be
+very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform’d, that he
+left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the
+Commandeur <i>d’Elbene</i>, and the Marquis <i>Rinuccini</i>, who settled every
+thing as they thought fit with Father <i>Ascanio</i>, the <i>Spanish</i> Minister.</p>
+
+<p>The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure
+Indulgence. ’Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace,
+<!--136.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span>and
+above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon,
+and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but
+this is an Honour which the <i>Florentines</i> don’t easily attain to; for he
+seems to be fondest of the <i>German</i> Nation, whose Language he speaks well,
+and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims
+that pass this Way, either to or from <i>Rome</i>, but he sends for them to his
+Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his
+Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at
+Five o’Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always
+eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in
+Table-Talk with <i>Joannino</i>, and some young Fellows call’d <i>Ruspanti</i>,
+because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in <i>Ruspes</i>, which
+are a Coin of the same Value as <i>Sequins</i>; and some of them have two,
+three, and even five <i>Ruspes</i> a Week. They are paid by <i>Joannino</i> every
+<i>Wednesday</i> and <i>Saturday</i>; but all their Business is to attend the Great
+Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; ’tis said their
+Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal
+Highness 80,000 Crowns <i>per Ann.</i> They consist of all Nations, but of
+<i>Germans</i> more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad
+alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much
+curl’d and powder’d.</p>
+
+<p>When the two Days which the Great Duke had order’d me to stay were
+expir’d, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me
+to wait on him, and receiv’d me altogether as kindly as he did the first
+Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to
+talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss’d me,
+saying,
+<i>Farewel</i>,<!--137.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span>
+<i>go to <span class="f">Leghorn</span>, and see my new Guests safe ashore</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot leave <span class="smcap">Florence</span>, without thinking it my Duty to mention some
+Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.</p>
+
+<p>The Commandeur <i>d’Elbene</i> is Steward of the Great Duke’s Houshold, and
+President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit.</p>
+
+<p>The Marquis <i>Rinuccini</i> is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul
+of the Council, having been employ’d in Business a long time; for in 1711
+he was the Great Duke’s Envoy at the <i>Hague</i>, and about that Time he
+attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at
+<i>Franckfort</i>. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the
+Congress at <i>Utrecht</i>, and from thence he went to <i>England</i>: When he
+return’d from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of
+his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has
+still the Direction. ’Twas he that dispos’d the Great Duke and the
+Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don <i>Carlos</i>, the
+Infante of <i>Spain</i>, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that
+settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected
+here with very great Impatience.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ the Nobility of <span class="smcap">Florence</span> are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet
+’tis certain, that the Marquis <i>Richardi</i> is one of those Gentlemen that
+give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in
+<i>Tuscany</i>, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three
+Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don <i>Vincenzo</i>,
+who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell’d
+very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and
+Merit.</p>
+
+<!--138.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don’t dress well, and
+have not near so much Liberty as those of <i>Rome</i>: There’s one Madame
+<i>Suarez</i> indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to
+all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the
+<i>English</i>; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming
+in it.</p>
+
+<p>Before I set out from <span class="smcap">Florence</span>, I can’t think it will be improper to give
+you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the <i>Medicis</i>, which is
+near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke <i>John Gaston</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to <i>Tuscany</i>. <i>Cosmo</i> the
+First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain’d that Title
+about <i>Ann.</i> 1568. from the Emperor <i>Maximilian</i> II of whom he had
+demanded the Title of <i>King of Hetruria</i>; but the Emperor return’d him for
+Answer, That he knew of but one King in <i>Italy</i>, and that was himself.
+However, to gratify <i>Cosmo</i>’s Vanity, <i>Maximilian</i> invented the Title of
+<i>Great Duke</i>, that of <i>Arch Duke</i> being already the Appenage of the House
+of <i>Austria</i>. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances,
+are as follow.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<i><span class="f">Cosmo I.</span> who married <span class="f">Eleanor</span> of <span class="f">Toledo</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">Ferdinand I.</span> who married <span class="f">Joan</span> of <span class="f">Austria</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">Francis I.</span> who married <span class="f">Mary Magdalen</span> of <span class="f">Austria</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">Cosmo II.</span> whose Wife was <span class="f">Claude</span> of <span class="f">Lorain</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">Ferdinand II.</span> married to <span class="f">Mary de la Rovero</span>, Duchess of <span class="f">Urbino</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">Cosmo III.</span> who married <span class="f">Margaretta Louisa</span> of <span class="f">Orleans</span>.</i><br />
+
+<i><span class="f">John Gaston</span>, married to <span class="f">Anna Maria Frances</span> of <span class="f">Saxe-Lawenbourg</span>.</i><br />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Family of <i>Medicis</i> calls to my Mind that of the <i>Kettlers</i>, Dukes of
+<i>Courland</i>; and I fansy
+the<!--139.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span>
+following Parallel will hold between the two
+Families. The <i>Medicis</i>, before they were Sovereigns of <i>Tuscany</i>, were
+Standard-Bearers of <span class="smcap">Florence</span>; the <i>Kettlers</i> were Gentlemen, and Grand
+Masters of the <i>Teutonic</i> Order in <i>Courland</i>. The Emperor <i>Maximilian</i>
+II. made <i>Medicis</i> Grand Duke: <i>Sigismond Augustus</i>, King of <i>Poland</i>,
+made <i>Kettler</i> a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns
+to <i>Europe</i>, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last
+of the <i>Medicis</i>, and the last of the <i>Kettlers</i>, were married to
+Princesses of the <i>Saxon</i> Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing
+of their Succession before they are dead<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>. Both Families began to
+flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of <i>Europe</i>; and
+in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same.</p>
+
+<p>I could stay but six Days at <i>Florence</i> this Journey, because I had a mind
+to see the Landing of the <i>Spaniards</i> at <span class="smcap">Leghorn</span>. I had no Time neither to
+lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv’d, and landed two
+or three Days after. The Fleet was compos’d of two Squadrons, one of
+which, <i>viz.</i> the <i>English</i>, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded
+by Admiral <i>Wager</i>. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time,
+but had been dispers’d by a Storm in the Gulph of <i>Lyons</i>. The <i>English</i>
+came in all
+together;<!--140.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span>
+but the <i>Spaniards</i> arriv’d one after another, and
+some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on
+the second of <i>November</i>, <i>All Souls Day</i>, whereon there fell a terrible
+Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis
+<i>de Charni</i><a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>, the Commander of the <i>Spanish</i> Forces, came on Shore the
+Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis <i>Rinuccini</i>, whom
+the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to <span class="smcap">Leghorn</span>. The <i>Spanish</i> General
+was oblig’d to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the
+Marquis <i>Rinuccini</i>, which when he had done, the <i>Spanish</i> Forces enter’d
+the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and
+mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated,
+that there shall be always two Thirds <i>Spaniards</i> to one Third of the
+Great Duke’s Soldiers. The <i>Spanish</i> Army consists of no more than 6000
+Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and
+Equipage for above 20,000. There’s one <i>Swiss</i> Regiment, another of
+<i>Walloons</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The <i>English</i> has three Decks,
+and carries 86 Guns: The <i>Spanish</i>, which had Admiral <i>Mari</i> on board,
+carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the
+<i>English</i> Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante
+Don <i>Carlos</i>, and no Expence was spar’d to render it magnificent. The
+Admiral’s Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables,
+Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, <i>&amp;c.</i> were of <i>Indian</i> Lacca
+Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the <i>English</i>
+Ship was the neatest,
+and<!--141.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span>
+far out-did the <i>Spaniard</i> in the civil
+Treatment of those that went aboard. The <i>English</i> Naval Officers are
+almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to
+such as came to visit them, and talk’d very modestly both of their Ships
+and their Tackling; whereas the <i>Spaniards</i> bragg’d of theirs beyond
+measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were
+much easier to work than those of the <i>English</i>, which are all of three
+Decks; and affirm’d, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and
+their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the <i>English</i>, and
+not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was
+told by an <i>Engish</i> Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable
+to one that had but two, because when ’tis a high Sea, and they are forc’d
+to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining,
+whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one
+remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, <i>said the Officer</i>, being
+higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the
+other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of
+Navigation, I know not whether my <i>Englishman</i> was in the right. But be
+that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally,
+that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects,
+it will be always safer to <i>lay a Wager</i> on the Side of the <i>English</i> than
+on the <i>Spanish</i> Ships.</p>
+
+<p>On St. <i>Charles</i>’s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don
+<i>Carlos</i>, the Marquis <i>Mari</i> gave us a grand Feast: I say <i>us</i>, because I
+was there, as well as all <i>Leghorn</i>, <i>Florence</i>, <i>Sienna</i>, <i>Lucca</i>, and
+<i>Pisa</i>, which you’ll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover,
+it was very gay. The <i>Florence</i> Gentry, who expected that the Infante
+would<!--142.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span>
+have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they
+are naturally very prodigal, they spar’d no Cost upon this Occasion. The
+<i>Lucquese</i> Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that
+taking the <i>Milanese</i> and <i>Genoese</i> along with them, they are of all the
+<i>Italians</i> the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality.
+Besides the <i>Italians</i>, there was so great a Concourse of <i>Englishmen</i> and
+Foreigners at <span class="smcap">Leghorn</span>, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless
+Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>English</i> are return’d home. ’Tis said, that the Infante<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> will come
+hither speedily by Land. The <i>Tuscans</i> long mightily to see him, and
+expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his
+Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of <i>Nostradamus</i>, who says
+in one of his Stanzas,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Du plus profund de l’Occident d’Europe,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe:</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Son bruit au Regne d’Orient plus croitra.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;"><i>i. e.</i></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">‘In the most Western Part of <i>Europe</i> an Infant<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">lead a great Force towards the <i>Po</i>, and whose<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.’<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>This Child, <i>born of a double Marriage</i>, must be the Infante, who is the
+Son of <i>Philip</i> V. by his second Wife.</p>
+
+<p>I heartily wish that I cou’d have staid at <i>Florence</i> till this Prince
+arriv’d; but I have
+order’d<!--143.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span>
+my Affairs so as to be at <i>Paris</i> before
+<i>Christmas</i>, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave
+<span class="smcap">Leghorn</span>, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note
+for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. ’Tis one of the neatest
+Cities in <i>Italy</i>, and that to which there’s the greatest Concourse of
+Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their
+Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and
+lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of <i>Holland</i>.
+The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided
+into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render’d
+convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for
+Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the
+Gallies. There’s an admirable Marble Statue of <i>Cosmo</i> I. <i>de Medicis</i>,
+which is rais’d on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is
+represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on
+his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue
+are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or
+Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass,
+representing <i>Turks</i>, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were,
+chain’d to the Pedestal: The <i>Connoisseurs</i> reckon them Master-pieces:
+Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they
+represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of
+four <i>Turks</i>, <i>viz.</i> the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father,
+and the Son; who being all on board a <i>Turkish</i> Vessel, the youngest of
+them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they
+embark’d, that on such a Day they shou’d all be taken into Slavery by the
+Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they
+were taken
+by<!--144.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span>
+the Great Duke’s Gallies, and this Prince caus’d their
+Statues to be carv’d, to transmit the Event to Posterity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Pisa</span>, tho’ a much more considerable City than <i>Leghorn</i> for its Antiquity,
+and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. ’Tis a
+large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; ’tis divided
+into two Parts by the River <i>Arno</i>, which comes from <i>Florence</i>, and forms
+two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of <i>Gothic</i>
+Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are
+of Brass, and represent the Passages mention’d in the New Testament, a
+Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of
+<i>Solomon</i>’s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the
+Baptistery of <i>Florence</i>. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the
+Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble
+Columns.</p>
+
+<p>I say nothing to you of the Tower that leans to one Side, and which
+consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor
+of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call’d <i>il Campo
+Santo</i>. Look into <i>Misson</i>, he will tell you the Measures of every thing;
+for that Gentleman always carry’d Mathematical Instruments about him, so
+that there was nothing but what he measur’d and weigh’d.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Pisa</span> is a City, which a Traveller can’t avoid seeing, but ’tis impossible
+for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their
+Ancestors gain’d by the Conquest of <i>Carthage</i>, that their Vanity is
+perfectly surfeiting.</p>
+
+<p>Having stay’d but one Day at <i>Pisa</i>, I proceeded in my Journey to <i>Genoa</i>,
+passing thro’ the Forest of <span class="smcap">Viareggio</span>, where, if I had had a great Charge
+of Money about me, and had credited what
+my<!--145.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span>
+Guide said, I shou’d have
+sweat for Fear; because he affirm’d to me, that there was not a Week
+throughout the Year but Passengers were robb’d and murder’d in this
+Forest. But when I came to the Village of <i>Viareggio</i>, which stands in the
+Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was
+false; and that since the Courier from <i>Lucca</i> was robb’d, which was
+eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put
+me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don’t care to
+tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an <i>Italian</i> Lacquey that I have
+in my Service, cou’d not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this
+Forest to pass thro’, he conjur’d me to take a Guard; but I banter’d him,
+and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his
+Beads. I had scarce travell’d half a League, but I saw five Men coming
+arm’d; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy’d them, cry’d out like a
+Madman, <i>Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia!
+Misericordia!</i> I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men,
+who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their
+Garb, that they were Soldiers from <i>Lucca</i>, who patroll’d there for the
+Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at
+first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to
+<span class="smcap">Pietra-Santa</span>, a little Place in the State of <i>Lucca</i>, he had not Strength
+to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz’d him, that he was
+almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every
+whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus’d him to
+bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my
+Chaise, and went and lay at <span class="smcap">Massa di Carrara</span>, the Capital of a very small
+Feodal
+Sovereignty<!--146.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span>
+of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal <i>Cibo</i>, the last
+of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece,
+who, ’tis said, is design’d for the young Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i>,
+Nephew<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> to the Great <i>Eugene</i>, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor’s
+Forces.</p>
+
+<p>The Founder of this Family was <i>Alberic Cibo</i>, the natural Son of
+<i>Innocent</i> VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor <i>Maximilian</i> II. erected
+<i>Massa</i> into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing
+remarkable in it but the Prince’s Palace, which makes some Shew. The
+Emperor keeps a Garrison in it<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>. The People at <i>Massa</i> are of good
+florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble,
+and for Oil in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Massa</i> to <span class="smcap">Sersana</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sarzana</span>, a City in the State of <i>Genoa</i>, the
+Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and
+Vines. In this City the <i>Genoese</i> have a Governor, or Podestat, but they
+keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better
+Soldiers to withstand the <i>Corsicans</i>, who are call’d the <i>Devils</i> of
+<i>Italy</i>, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress’d. The
+Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for
+Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from
+Foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Sersana</i> I proceeded to <span class="smcap">Lerici</span>, a little Town on the Sea-side. There
+I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv’d in less than twenty-four
+Hours at <i>Genoa</i>, tho’ I stay’d some Hours at <span class="smcap">Sestri</span>, an Episcopal City of
+that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town,
+and<!--147.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span>
+very agreeably
+situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This
+Town is defended by a Fort, which seem’d to me to be well furnish’d with
+Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann’d than that of <i>Sersana</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Genoa</span>, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the
+greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the
+Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns
+of <i>Italy</i> it is with Justice call’d the <i>Superb</i>; for there is not a City
+in <i>Europe</i>, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and
+where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City
+has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer’d a greater
+Shock than in 1684. when ’twas bombarded by Order of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. The
+Marquis <i>de Seignelai</i>, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg’d
+his Commission so well, that from the 18th of <i>May</i> to the 28th, he caus’d
+13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The <i>Genoese</i> were oblig’d to
+humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that
+they wou’d send four Senators into <i>France</i>, to make their Submission to
+him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho’,
+according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a
+Foot out of the City, <i>Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari</i> was then the Doge,
+who went to <i>Versailles</i>, and had his Audience there on the 15th of <i>May</i>
+1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more
+Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>French</i> boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck
+Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in
+Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of
+the most glorious Epochas of
+the<!--148.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span>
+Reign of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. Far be it from me
+to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and
+to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether
+the <i>French</i> wou’d easily pardon any other Nations for making the like
+Boast of their Exploits. The <i>Spaniards</i>, who have the Character of being
+vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the
+<i>French</i>. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is,
+the Excuses which <i>Philibert</i>, Prince of <i>Piedmont</i>, Son to <i>Charles
+Emanuel</i>, Duke of <i>Savoy</i>, made in Person to <i>Philip</i> IV. King of <i>Spain</i>,
+in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because
+he had made a Treaty with <i>France</i>, sought to be reveng’d on him, and
+found an Opportunity. <i>Henry</i> IV. King of <i>France</i> being assassinated,
+<i>Mary de Medicis</i>, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with
+<i>Spain</i>, by assisting <i>Charles Emanuel</i>. <i>Philip</i> IV. improv’d this
+Opportunity, and caus’d Troops to march from the <i>Milanese</i> towards
+<i>Piedmont</i>: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to
+<i>Madrid</i>. The young Prince was very well receiv’d there at first, but he
+had the Mortification to be oblig’d to make the most submissive Speech
+that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: ‘Sir, <i>said he,
+addressing himself to the King</i>, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being
+hinder’d from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to
+supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I
+am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief
+of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at
+your Majesty’s Feet, resolv’d not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till
+you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke
+my Father, and our whole Family,
+into<!--149.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>
+your Royal Protection. By this,
+<i>Sir</i>, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest
+Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is
+devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration,
+which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if
+necessary, be seal’d by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon
+your Majesty’s Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve.
+If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it
+will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.’</p>
+
+<p>Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of
+the King of <i>Spain</i>, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of <i>Genoa</i> to
+puff up <i>Lewis</i> XIV? And is not a Prince of <i>Piedmont</i> at <i>Madrid</i>, a
+Person of more Consequence than a Doge of <i>Genoa</i> at <i>Versailles</i>?
+Nevertheless, the <i>Spaniards</i> have neither struck any Medals, nor raised
+any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for
+this Digression: The Prince of <i>Piedmont</i>’s Speech is not to be met with
+in all the Historians: I believ’d it would be acceptable to you, and
+thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation
+made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the <i>Doge</i>. I now resume
+the Thread of my Narrative.</p>
+
+<p>The Street <i>Balbi</i>, and the <i>new</i> Street, are more like Galleries than
+Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the <i>Annunciation</i>
+and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the <i>Jesuits</i>
+College, of which <i>James Balbi</i>, a <i>Genoese</i> Nobleman, made a Present on
+his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always
+remain over the great Gate. The
+Reverend<!--150.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span>
+Fathers the <i>Jesuits</i> have
+laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for
+this End have had great Law-Suits with the <i>Balbi</i> Family; but at length
+they were condemn’d by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the
+Founder, and there they still remain.</p>
+
+<p>The two Palaces <i>Purazzi</i>, which are in the same Street, are very
+magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a
+Theatre, called the Theatre of the <i>Falcon</i>, which is so extremely well
+laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and
+without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient,
+and the Ornaments dispos’d every-where with Judgment.</p>
+
+<p>The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street <i>Balbi</i>. Here
+are the two Palaces <i>Brignole</i>, and indeed they are both stately
+Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the
+newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent
+Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an
+extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon
+Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one
+wou’d not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs
+<i>Brignole</i> are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son:
+They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in <i>Genoa</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of the Duke <i>Doria</i>, which is in the same Street, is grand and
+stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince <i>Doria</i>,
+without the Gate of St. <i>Thomas</i>, which owes its Foundation to the
+celebrated <i>Doria</i>, who was a General of the Emperor <i>Charles</i> V. This
+Palace
+is<!--151.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span>
+very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the
+Apartments are low and old-fashioned.</p>
+
+<p>The Suburb of St. <i>Peter d’Arena</i> is very large, and contains several
+noble Palaces, of which the Palace <i>Imperiali</i>, where the Emperor and
+Empress lodged at their Return from <i>Spain</i>, is esteemed by the
+Connoisseurs in Architecture.</p>
+
+<p>The People at <i>Genoa</i> are more sociable than they are at <i>Venice</i>, and the
+Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don’t believe, that they who
+accuse the <i>Italians</i> of Jealousy, include the <i>Genoese</i> in that Charge;
+there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow’d more
+Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have
+very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess’d Lovers.
+These Sparks, who go by the Name of <i>Cicisbei</i>, are never out of their
+Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so
+fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from
+the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have
+five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go;
+and ’tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the
+Ears. ’Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it;
+for the Gentry here don’t wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the
+Lawyers in <i>France</i>; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I
+could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in <i>France</i> would likewise wear,
+in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers.</p>
+
+<p>The People of Quality here dress very well, and the <i>Genoese</i> of both
+Sexes have a much better Air than those of <i>Florence</i> and <i>Rome</i>. The
+Princess of <i>Modena</i>’s Residence with them has not been to their
+Detriment; for they have
+contracted<!--152.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span>
+a courtly Behaviour, to which the
+<i>Italians</i> are pretty much Strangers. The <i>Genoese</i> in general understand
+good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing
+better. Tho’ they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here
+very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the
+Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for
+a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced
+to them by the Count <i>Guiccardi</i>, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor,
+and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke
+of <i>Modena</i>, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince’s
+Minister at <i>Vienna</i>, when he went into the Service of his Imperial
+Majesty. He married the Countess <i>Sinzendorff</i>, who was the Daughter of
+<i>Hawitz</i>, the Grand Marshal at <i>Dresden</i>. This Lady was a <i>Lutheran</i>; but
+being at <i>Vienna</i>, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the
+Metropolitan Church of St. <i>Stephen</i>, while she was looking upon a Picture
+of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she
+was, and scorch’d her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou’d not shew
+for all the Gold of <i>Peru</i>; but she received no other Harm, and thinking
+that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression
+upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary
+Professor.</p>
+
+<p>You know that the <i>Genoese</i> are actually at War with their Subjects the
+<i>Corsicans</i>, who have newly publish’d a Manifesto of their Reasons for
+taking Arms. If all they say be true, ’tis certain they have been very ill
+used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus’d, theirs may. This War has
+already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are
+taking, ’tis to be presumed
+it<!--153.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span>
+will run them into a much greater Expence.
+The <i>Corsicans</i> have chose one <i>Giafferi</i> for their Leader. He is a Man of
+Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure
+his Country its Liberties; and if the <i>Genoese</i> are not assisted by some
+Power, he is like enough to succeed.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> Time will bring all Things to
+Light. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--154.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Turin, Nov. 28, 1731.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Road hither from <span class="smcap">Genoa</span> is very bad at this time of the Year. During
+the first two Post-Stages I cross’d one River no less than thirty-two
+times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho’ the
+Neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">Genoa</span> is very mountainous, ’tis very pleasant, all the
+Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had
+travell’d about four Post-Stages, I enter’d on the Plain which brought me
+to <i>Turin</i>. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World,
+and wants nothing but Causeys.</p>
+
+<p>The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was <span class="smcap">Alexandria de
+la Paille</span>, which stands on the River <i>Tanaro</i>. ’Tis a great Town, but not
+very populous. It formerly depended on the <i>Milanese</i>, and was yielded by
+the Emperor to the King of <i>Sardinia</i>, who keeps a good Garison in it, and
+has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been
+very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are
+the most considerable in <i>Italy</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I afterwards came to <span class="smcap">Asti</span>, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which
+indeed is one of the best of <i>Italy</i>, From thence I went and lay at
+<span class="smcap">Quieri</span>, a great Town in <i>Piedmont</i>, ill
+built,<!--155.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span>
+but full of People of
+Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was
+in so much Haste to get to <span class="smcap">Turin</span>, that I did not stay there. I pass’d by
+the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of <span class="smcap">Montcallier</span>, a Royal
+Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King <i>Victor
+Amedeus</i>. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the
+finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more
+worth a Traveller’s View, than the Village of <i>Montcallier</i> itself.</p>
+
+<p>At some Distance from this Place I cross’d the <i>Po</i> over a wooden Bridge,
+and came thro’ a pleasant Avenue to <span class="smcap">Turin</span>, the Capital of <i>Piedmont</i>, and
+the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of <i>Savoy</i>. Those Princes chose also
+to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which
+is what they call in <i>France</i> the Parlement; and they have rendered it one
+of the strongest and finest Cities of <i>Italy</i>, exclusive of its charming
+Situation. ’Tis divided into two Parts, the <i>old</i> and the <i>new</i> City, with
+Bastions and Outworks, well fac’d, and a Citadel very regularly fortify’d.
+It stands eighteen Miles from the <i>Alps</i>, in a Plain which has the <i>Po</i> on
+one Side, and the <i>Duero</i> on the other.</p>
+
+<p>This City will always be remember’d for the Siege which it sustained in
+1704, when the Marshal and Count <i>Daun</i>, Governor of <i>Milan</i>, commanded
+here, by the Emperor’s Permission, at the Request of the Duke of <i>Savoy</i>.
+He defended the Place against the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, the Grandson of
+<i>France</i>, and gave Time to Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i> to come to its
+Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The <i>French</i> pretend,
+that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of
+<i>Burgundy</i>, the
+Daughter<!--156.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span>
+of King <i>Victor Amedeus</i>, was the Person that
+prevail’d on <i>Lewis</i> XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As
+I am not privy to what pass’d at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of
+<i>France</i>, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as
+the Belief of what the <i>French</i> give out upon this Head is not an Article
+of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to
+Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had:
+For how can it be imagin’d, that if <i>Lewis</i> XIV, had really a Desire, that
+his Army should decamp from before <span class="smcap">Turin</span>, he would have chose to have
+subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his
+Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos’d the Honour of his
+Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men,
+which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet
+would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the
+Appearance of a Flight. But the <i>French</i> have this Notion: They were never
+routed, but ’twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be
+routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the
+Battle of <i>Hochstet</i>, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the
+Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>, and the Marshal <i>de Tallard</i>; that of <i>Ramillies</i>,
+because the Marshal <i>de Villeroy</i> would not let the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>
+have the Honour of beating us; that of <i>Audenarde</i>, because the Duke of
+<i>Vendosme</i>’s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of
+<i>Burgundy</i>, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. <i>de la Motte</i>, too,
+suffered himself to be beaten near <i>Wynendale</i>, only in Complaisance to
+the Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to
+persuade the King his
+Grandfather<!--157.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span>
+to the Peace, which he had very much at
+Heart, if <i>Lisle</i> was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have
+been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. <i>de la Motte</i> had
+attack’d. The Passage of the <i>Scheld</i>, the raising of the Siege of
+<i>Brussels</i>, the Surrender of <i>Ghent</i>, without strikeing a Blow; all this
+was done also by Order of the Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, who was for a Peace upon
+any Terms, and cou’d not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and
+Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the
+Marshals of <i>France</i> to tell me the same Story, they would find me as
+great an Unbeliever as St. <i>Thomas</i>, and wou’d never prevail with me to be
+guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, the
+wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his
+Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more regular than that Part of <span class="smcap">Turin</span>, which is called the
+<i>new City</i>. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets
+are wide, strait, and well-pav’d. It has fine Churches, particularly the
+Metropolis, or Chapel of the <i>Holy Handkerchief</i>, which is also the Royal
+Chapel, and may be reckon’d the Master-piece of Architecture. ’Tis in the
+Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac’d, not excepting the Roof, with black
+Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the
+precious Relique of our Lord’s Handkerchief, of which there’s the like in
+St. <i>Peter</i>’s Church at <i>Rome</i>, and at <i>Besançon</i>. I had been told, that I
+should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this
+Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour’s Body; but I was not so happy as
+to discern any thing like it.</p>
+
+<p>The King’s Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite
+finish’d;
+nevertheless,<!--158.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span>
+the Apartments are well contriv’d; The Furniture
+is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There
+are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos’d in the Manner of
+Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they
+are not much adorn’d.</p>
+
+<p>The finest, and the completest Thing at <span class="smcap">Turin</span>, and perhaps in <i>Europe</i>, in
+the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame
+Royale, the King’s Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King’s
+Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. ’Twas a very old Building,
+and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar’d no Cost, either in
+Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it
+happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal
+Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and
+to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This
+Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in <i>Italy</i>, and fix’d
+upon the Plans, which to her appear’d the most grand and beautiful. Before
+this Stair-case was built, they us’d to say that Madame Royale’s Palace
+was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say ’tis a Stair-case
+without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou’d become the <i>Louvre</i>, it
+being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.</p>
+
+<p>I cou’d not get a Sight of the Castle of the <i>Venerie</i>, three Leagues from
+<span class="smcap">Turin</span>; for while King <i>Victor</i> is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer’d to
+go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince’s being under an
+Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform’d of what gave
+Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into
+Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.</p>
+
+<!--159.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span></p>
+
+<p>King <i>Victor Amedeus</i>, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was
+Daughter of <i>Philip</i> of <i>France</i>, the late Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, by
+<i>Henrietta</i> of <i>England</i>, fell in Love with the Marchioness of<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> <i>St.
+Sebastian</i>, Lady of Honour to the Princess of <i>Piedmont</i>, now Queen of
+<i>Sardinia</i>. The Virtue of Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, and the King’s
+Devotion for her, induc’d him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it
+honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a
+Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal
+a<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>Match. He imparted his Design to Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, who did
+all she cou’d to prevail with <i>Victor</i> to continue upon the Throne; but
+finding he was resolv’d not to make her a Queen, she consented to his
+Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour’d to become the Wife of a
+Prince, who had worn a Crown. King <i>Victor</i> consulted with his chief
+Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis’d him not to leave the
+Throne. His Son
+King<!--160.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>
+<i>Charles</i> conjur’d him to keep Possession of it. <i>I
+protest to your Majesty</i>, said this Prince, <i>I never once indulged a Wish
+to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject</i>. But
+all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of <i>September</i>, 1730,
+was fix’d for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons
+in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>Palace.
+There the King appear’d without any Mark of Royalty, accompany’d by the
+Prince of <i>Piedmont</i>, and declar’d to the Assembly, that he was resolv’d
+to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted
+them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had
+taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son
+<i>Charles</i>, Prince of <i>Piedmont</i>, for their King; and desir’d them to be as
+Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of
+Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis <i>del Borgo</i>,
+Secretary of State, and <i>Charles</i> was recogniz’d for King.</p>
+
+<p>After the Ceremony was over, King <i>Victor</i>, with the Marchioness of <i>St.
+Sebastian</i>, whom he had married, on Condition<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> that she shou’d wear no
+other Title, set out for <i>Chamberry</i>, which he had chose for the Place of
+his Retirement.
+But<!--161.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span>
+scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of
+having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved
+as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King
+<i>Victor</i> resign’d, he advis’d his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility
+and Gentry to be survey’d, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to
+the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho’ it had a View to the Increase of
+the King’s Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason,
+<i>Charles</i> when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in
+Execution. <i>Victor</i> being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son,
+rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and
+perceiving that <i>Charles</i> was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained
+a Thought of reascending the Throne<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>. To this End, he secretly felt the
+Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to <i>Charles</i>:
+Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he
+knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou’d also be his Friends;
+for most of the Officers having been preferr’d by him, he did not doubt
+but they were still attach’d to him, and he flatter’d himself with their
+Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal <i>Rhebinder</i>, in
+general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting.
+This General, who was
+Commander<!--162.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
+in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of
+what Consequence it was to deprive King <i>Victor</i> of the least Hopes of
+reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged
+to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: ‘Your Majesty, <i>said the
+Marshal in his Letter</i>, has made me all that I am. I am under no
+Obligation to King <i>Charles</i>; but my Engagements to your Majesty are
+inexpressible; tho’ of all the Favours which you have heap’d upon me, the
+Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave
+therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have
+acquir’d by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I
+shou’d forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the
+King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I
+shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last
+Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready
+to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person,
+being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me,
+but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your
+Actions, <i>&amp;c.</i>’</p>
+
+<p>This Answer was not sufficient to cool King <i>Victor</i>’s Ambition to resume
+the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal <i>de Rhebinder</i>, and
+to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify’d,
+that he knew how to punish those that refus’d to obey him. All these
+Letters were carried to King <i>Charles</i>, who being concerned to see his
+Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou’d you have me
+do? <i>He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to
+Providence.</i></p>
+
+<!--163.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The King was still in Hopes, that he shou’d be able to make <i>Victor</i> easy,
+and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he
+went with his Queen to <i>Evian</i>, and from thence to <i>Chamberry</i>, where
+<i>Charles</i> paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper.
+The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he
+took leave of <i>Victor</i>, he paid a Visit to Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, with
+whom he had a long Conference. He desir’d this Lady to pacify King
+<i>Victor</i>, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with
+State Affairs. <i>He hath made me King</i>, said <i>Charles, and King I will be.
+You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not
+like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that
+he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal</i>. They say
+<i>Charles</i> dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin’d to yield
+his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis’d great
+Advantages to Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, not only for herself, but for the
+Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady
+promis’d the King all that he desir’d, but kept her Word very ill; for her
+Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King <i>Victor</i> every Day more and
+more uneasy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Victor</i> after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would
+reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be
+nearer <span class="smcap">Turin</span>. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of
+<i>Chamberry</i> was bad for his Health, and desir’d him to let him go and
+reside at the Castle of <i>Montcallier</i>. <i>Charles</i> was return’d to <span class="smcap">Turin</span>
+when he receiv’d this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he
+understood that the King his Father, and Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, were
+already come to
+<i>Montcallier</i>.<!--164.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span>
+He was not at all sorry for it, because,
+as he knew King <i>Victor</i>’s Designs, he cou’d better observe his Motions,
+when so near him: And King <i>Victor</i>, on his Part, was glad that he was at
+<i>Montcallier</i>, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of <span class="smcap">Turin</span> might give him a
+better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding
+Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and
+gave such publick<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that
+<i>Charles</i>’s Ministers<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>, fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to
+his Assistance, unanimously advis’d the King to confine him. The young
+Prince exclaim’d several times against this Proposition. <i>What!</i> said he,
+<i>make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that</i>: And indeed,
+it was a long time ere he cou’d agree to it; but at length he was
+prevail’d on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho’, when he
+sign’d the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that
+the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de la Perouse</i>, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged
+with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King <i>Victor</i>, and had a
+Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of
+<span class="smcap">Turin</span>, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking.
+They all march’d out at the
+same<!--165.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span>
+Hour from their Quarters, without
+knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o’Clock next Morning they all
+came to the Place appointed at <i>Montcallier</i>. The Count <i>de la Perouse</i>,
+attended by the Chevalier <i>de Solare</i>, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards,
+at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw’d to
+their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led
+to King <i>Victor</i>’s Apartment, while the Marquis <i>d’Ormea</i>, Secretary of
+State, who carry’d the Order sign’d by King <i>Charles</i>, secur’d the
+Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. <i>de la Perouse</i>,
+finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page
+in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way
+farther, and forc’d open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where
+the King was a-bed with Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>. This Lady, hearing a
+Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown,
+ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm’d Men, she cry’d out, <i>Oh! Sir,
+we are betray’d!</i> They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers
+carry’d her into the next Chamber, where they caus’d her to be dress’d,
+and afterwards conducted her to <i>Ceve</i>, a Fortress of <i>Piedmont</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Neither the Outcry of Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, nor all the Noise that
+was made, had awak’d King <i>Victor</i>, who always slept sound. The Chevalier
+<i>de Solare</i> seiz’d the King’s Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and
+the Count <i>de la Perouse</i> went to the Bed-side, and open’d the Curtains.
+Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask’d what was the
+Matter. The Count <i>de la Perouse</i> said to him, That he had Orders from the
+King to arrest him. <i>What King do you mean?</i> said <i>Victor</i>: <i>’Tis I that
+am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty
+has been so</i>,
+reply’d<!--166.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span>
+the Count, <i>but you are so no longer; and since it
+has pleas’d you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to
+command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such
+Obedience</i>. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten’d the Officers,
+and refus’d to rise. The Chevalier <i>de Solare</i> coming too near the Bed,
+the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in
+Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise,
+the Officers lifted him. up, and dress’d him. The King was heard to say,
+in the mean time, that he only wish’d to sit two Hours on the Throne, that
+he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam’d the
+principal Lords of the Court.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he was dress’d, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him
+down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard.
+The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem’d surpriz’d at
+it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent,
+seem’d no less surpriz’d, when they saw their old King was to be carry’d
+off a Prisoner. <i>What! Our King!</i> said they softly to each other, <i>What
+has he done? What is the Matter?</i> The Count <i>de la Perouse</i>, fearing a
+Mutiny, call’d out <i>Silence</i>, in the King’s Name, <i>on Pain of Death</i>. The
+old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he
+had always valu’d above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected
+him, and he wou’d have spoke to it; but no Time was allow’d him, and he
+was oblig’d to go into the Coach. The Count <i>de la Perouse</i>, and the
+Chevalier <i>de Solare</i>, ask’d his Leave to sit with him; but the King
+answer’d, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode
+by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and
+conducted him to <i>Rivoli</i>.
+I<!--167.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span>
+had almost forgot to tell you, that when he
+went from <i>Montcallier</i>, he ask’d for three Things; his Wife, his Papers,
+and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain’d.</p>
+
+<p>The Day after he came to <i>Rivoli</i>, as they were clapping iron Bars, and
+double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask’d the
+Glazier what he was going to do! <i>I am going</i>, said the Man, <i>to put on
+double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn’t catch Cold this Winter</i>.
+<i>How now, Varlet!</i> said the King, <i>Do you think I shall spend all the
+Winter here?</i> <i>Ah! by my Faith</i>, reply’d the Glazier, <i>you will pass this
+winter here, and I believe many more</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to
+his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier <i>de
+Solare</i>, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he
+sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all
+manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>In the whole Course of this Affair, ’tis fortunate for King <i>Charles</i>,
+that not one of his Subjects has fail’d in his Allegiance to him; he has
+not been oblig’d to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has
+he caus’d above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King
+<i>Victor</i>’s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately
+set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored
+between the father and the Son.</p>
+
+<p>They say, that Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i> is fallen into a deep Melancholy;
+and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After
+her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen
+at Court. The
+young<!--168.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span>
+King missing him, ordered the Marquis <i>d’Ormea</i>,
+Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to
+Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he
+did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever,
+which Madame <i>de St. Sebastian</i> had committed, and that he would take Care
+of his Fortune.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Piedmontese</i> are charm’d with their new King, and indeed, he is a
+Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane,
+compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in
+Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and
+particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a
+great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, ’tis only owing to the
+Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> is of the Family of <i>Hesse Rhinfels</i>. She is tall and
+slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very
+fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and
+ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is
+the Mother of two lovely<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> Princes, and a Princess, and seems very
+attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth.</p>
+
+<p>The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is
+observed at the Court of <i>France</i>, The King and Queen always eat together,
+and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The
+Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the
+Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to
+attend
+her,<!--169.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span>
+who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a
+Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the
+young Princess of <i>Carignan</i>, and the Queen’s youngest Sister, sitting on
+Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen’s Chair; and all
+the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds
+for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and
+Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where
+there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the
+Marchioness <i>de Prie</i>, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the
+<i>Netherlands</i>, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes
+present.</p>
+
+<p>There’s an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be
+enjoy’d in all <i>Italy</i> besides; and the <i>Piedmontese</i> don’t think
+themselves <i>Italians</i>; so that I am often ask’d, Whether I came last from
+<i>Italy</i>? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City
+better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the <i>French</i> Manners
+with the <i>Italians</i> is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live
+well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very
+civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal <i>de la Rhebinder</i> is
+particularly noted. This General is a Native of <i>Livonia</i>: He commanded
+the Elector Palatine’s Troops in <i>Italy</i>, and then went into the Service
+of the Duke of <i>Savoy</i>, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a
+foreign Regiment of Foot. King <i>Victor</i> created him a Velt-Marshal, and he
+is actually Commander in Chief of the King of <i>Sardinia</i>’s Troops.</p>
+
+<p>The Marquis <i>d’Ormea</i> is the Chief or President of the Council, first
+Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the
+Confidence of King <i>Victor</i>. That Prince had sent him to
+<i>Rome</i>,<!--170.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span>
+where
+the Marquis <i>d’Ormea</i> obtained great Advantages of Pope <i>Benedict</i> XIII.
+for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices.
+This Minister was recall’d in the first Year of the Pontificate of
+<i>Clement</i> XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that
+his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King <i>Victor</i>’s Abdication he
+returned to <span class="smcap">Turin</span>. King <i>Charles</i> does nothing without him. He is a
+Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his
+Promises. I knew him at <i>Rome</i>, and have the Honour of seeing him here as
+often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my
+Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not
+always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This
+Minister has a Brother a<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very
+lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the
+Steps of his Father.</p>
+
+<p>The Youth here don’t seem to be so hair-brain’d as they are elsewhere: I
+don’t know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so
+in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his
+Children to the University here, than which I question whether there’s a
+better in <i>Europe</i>, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises,
+as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed
+in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which
+the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the
+other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow’d to go abroad
+on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go
+where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.</p>
+
+<!--171.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Out-parts of <span class="smcap">Turin</span> are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned
+with a great many pretty <i>Cassines</i> or Pleasure-Houses, which are only
+separated by Meadows, that are constantly water’d by a Number of little
+Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the <i>Esplanade</i>, between the City
+and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very
+pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the <i>Piedmontese</i>
+Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave
+them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone.
+I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at <i>Lyons</i>, if I don’t stay at
+<i>Chamberry</i>; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don’t fail to write
+to me at <i>Paris</i>, and believe me to be, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Lyons, March 2, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Tho’ I had pass’d Mount <i>Cenis</i> twice before, and travers’d <i>Savoy</i>, yet I
+thought the Passage of the <i>Alps</i> as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily
+glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all <i>Savoy</i> put
+together.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Turin</i> I went and lay at <span class="smcap">la Novalaise</span>. I first pass’d by the Castle
+of <i>Rivoli</i>, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there’s an Avenue
+from <i>Turin</i> in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell’d
+thro’ <span class="smcap">Susa</span>, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the
+Banks<!--172.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span>
+of a
+River form’d by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as
+it were, to bury <i>Susa</i> alive. This City, and the Valley in which ’tis
+built, are commanded by the Fort <span class="smcap">de la Brunette</span>, an important Place, which
+King <i>Victor Amedeus</i> caus’d to be erected for the Defence of <i>Piedmont</i>.
+Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. ’Tis provided with a
+good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been
+built in the Time of <i>Lewis</i> XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his
+Minister the Cardinal <i>de Richelieu</i>, would so easily have passed the
+Mountains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">La Novalaise</span> is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more
+disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig’d to stop there to unload their
+Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other
+Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by
+four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me
+upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to
+Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.</p>
+
+<p>At the Top of the Mountain is a<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>Lake, and also an Hospital, which I
+thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain’d, and
+other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to
+receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable
+Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this
+Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends
+may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their
+greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
+<!--173.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span>fall,
+and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount <i>Cenis</i> on the
+Side of <i>Savoy</i> is by much the<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> easiest, where in the Winter-time
+People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country
+People call <i>se faire ramasser</i>. This Way of travelling is very commodious
+and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly
+faster. I knew an <i>English</i> Gentleman that stay’d a Week together at
+<i>Lanebourg</i>, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again
+and again, purely for the Pleasure of <i>se faire ramasser</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lanebourg</span> and its Inn are no better than <i>La Novalaise</i>; but one is
+oblig’d to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don’t travel Post,
+and make use of the Carriers of <i>Turin</i> or <i>Chamberry</i>, are seldom put to
+this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides
+the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which
+is very quickly loaded. From <i>Lanebourg</i> to <i>Chamberry</i> all the Road is
+bury’d, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices:
+There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a
+Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which
+the Horses were kill’d, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which
+consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of
+<i>Carignan</i>, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho’ he was not at
+all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou’d
+actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder’d
+him.</p>
+
+<p>I pass’d thro’ several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth
+mentioning; <span class="smcap">St. John de Maurienne</span> is the chief, because ’tis the
+See<!--174.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span>
+of a
+Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; ’tis a very antient
+County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of <i>Savoy</i>; this Valley
+extends from the <i>Alps</i> to the River of <i>Isere</i> on one Side, and from the
+<i>Tarentaise</i> to the <i>Dauphinois</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Chamberry</span>, the Capital City of <i>Savoy</i>, is not a Town where you must
+expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet
+the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; ’tis situate
+on the Banks of the River <i>Orbanno</i> in a very little Plain encompass’d
+with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There’s a
+great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money’d Men; yet
+they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The
+Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People
+good-natur’d and civil, and the <i>Savoyards</i> in general are a very good
+Sort of People. They are accus’d of being too thrifty, but perhaps ’tis
+more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig’d to
+support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune,
+he is forc’d to be a good Husband whether he will or no.</p>
+
+<p>At the Distance of five Leagues from <i>Chamberry</i> I descended a high
+Mountain, in which I perceiv’d a Road had been cut for half a League. I
+saw by a <i>Latin</i> Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not
+Time to copy, that the <i>Romans</i> formerly undertook to make this Road; but,
+judging it impossible, gave it over; yet <i>Charles Emanuel</i> II. for the
+Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the
+Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and
+magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether
+he wou’d have accomplish’d it, if, like the <i>Romans</i>, he
+had<!--175.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span>
+not made use
+of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high
+Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc’d on both
+Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of
+the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass’d, it
+was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter’d the
+Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.</p>
+
+<p>This Mist brought me to the Town of <span class="smcap">Echelles</span>, which is at the Foot of the
+Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to <i>Lyons</i>. I also pass’d
+to <span class="smcap">Pont de Bonvoisin</span>, a little Town which is shar’d betwixt the Kings of
+<i>France</i> and <i>Sardinia</i>. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here,
+the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of <i>France</i> keeps a
+Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of <i>Bonvoisin</i>, which
+belongs to him. This is the first Town of <i>Dauphiny</i>, which is not one of
+the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to <i>Philip de Valois</i>
+by <i>Humbert de la Tour</i>, the last Sovereign Prince of <i>Dauphiny</i>, who bore
+the Title of Dauphin of the <i>Viennois</i>. History says, that <i>Humbert</i>,
+finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of
+<i>France</i>, and chose a Monastic Life at <i>Lyons</i> in the Order of St.
+<i>Dominic</i>, in the Rules of which he liv’d with the very great Esteem of
+good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated
+Patriarch of <i>Alexandria</i>. Some say, that having been the innocent Author
+of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him
+resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a
+secret Grudge against the Duke of <i>Savoy</i>, whom he was too weak to cope
+with, he made an Agreement with the King of <i>France</i>, on purpose that the
+Duke<!--176.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span>
+might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to
+reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own’d to be a sad
+Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to
+injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou’d be of the Humour
+to take such a Revenge. The same <i>Humbert</i> requir’d, that the eldest Son
+of <i>France</i> shou’d be styl’d the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has
+been observ’d ever since. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, the first Prince of the
+Blood of <i>France</i>, is Governor of <i>Dauphiny</i>. This Province has a
+Parliament, which is held at <i>Grenoble</i>. The antient Dauphins resided at
+<i>Vienne</i>, which is an Archbishoprick. ’Twas to the Neighbourhood of this
+City, that <i>Herod</i> and <i>Pilate</i>, our Saviour’s Judges, were banish’d.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lyons</span> is so considerable a City, that the <i>French</i> commonly say, <i>Next to
+<span class="f">Paris</span>, <span class="f">Lyons</span></i><a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>. The <i>Sâon</i> runs thro’ this City, and the <i>Rhone</i> washes
+its
+Walls;<!--177.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span>
+’tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are
+industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There’s not a Town in
+<i>France</i>, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They
+endeavour to imitate them at <i>Turin</i>, in <i>Holland</i>, and elsewhere, but
+they can’t come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop,
+who is at present M. <i>de Rochebonne</i>, and therein succeeded the late M.
+<i>de Villeroi</i>, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was <i>Lewis</i> the
+XVth’s Governor. The <i>Villeroi</i> Family has been for a long time in
+Possession of the Government of <i>Lyons</i>, and the chief Dignities of its
+Province. The late Marshal obtain’d the Government of <i>Lyons</i> and the
+<i>Lyonnois</i> from King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of
+the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second
+Son, and the Abbey of <i>St. Peter</i> in <i>Lyons</i> for his Daughter. The Duke of
+<i>Orleans</i>, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the
+Reversion of the Government of <i>Lyons</i> for his Grandsons the Duke <i>de
+Retz</i>, and the Marquis <i>d’Alincourt</i>, and nominated the latter
+Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho’ Authority generally renders those
+hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of <i>Villeroi</i>
+have ever escap’d that Fate; ’tis true they have always acted with very
+great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so
+that they are mightily belov’d in <i>Lyons</i>, where the late Marshal was as
+much respected as the King himself; for he procur’d great Advantages for
+the Province, and for the City in particular.</p>
+
+<p>They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first
+<i>Villeroi</i> to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of
+<i>Lyons</i> is one of the most haughty in all <i>Christendom</i>, and ’tis not
+without Reason; for it is founded upon the
+Blood<!--178.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span>
+of above 20,000 Martyrs,
+and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops,
+who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is
+inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and ’tis an Observation made by
+several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of
+seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons
+of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and
+twenty were Barons. ’Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of <i>Lyons</i>,
+for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their
+Archbishop <i>Camillus de la Neuville</i>, who was not of their Body, and whom
+King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. <i>Neuville</i> is
+known to be the Name of the Family of <i>Villeroi</i>. The Grandfather of this
+Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been
+Treasurer of the War-Office, and <i>Prevôt des Marchands</i> of the City of
+<i>Paris</i>; his Grandfather <i>Nicolas de la Neuville</i> had been Secretary of
+State, and his Father <i>Charles de la Neuville</i> was the first of the Family
+who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis <i>d’Alincourt</i>, Sieur
+<i>de Villeroi</i>, an Estate which <i>Peter le Gendre</i> Treasurer of <i>France</i>,
+had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis <i>d’Alincourt</i> was Governor of
+<i>Lyons</i> and the <i>Lyonnois</i>, and dying in the Service of the King, as
+Ambassador at <i>Rome</i>, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of
+<i>Lyons</i>, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus’d to admit him, because
+he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King
+found a way to make himself obey’d, and when the Archbishop harangu’d the
+Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, <i>The Stone
+which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner</i>.
+The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
+<!--179.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span>would
+expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was
+applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next
+Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, <i>viz.</i> <i>This is the Lord’s (<span class="f">the
+King’s</span>) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes</i>. Notwithstanding this, the
+new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal
+Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the
+Government of the <i>Lyonnois</i> till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by
+the Son of the Marshal <i>Villeroi</i> his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded
+by M. <i>de Rochebonne</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke <i>de Villeroi</i>, Governor
+of the City, is the <i>Prevôt des Marchands</i>, which is so much the worse for
+any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as
+strictly examin’d as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig’d
+to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an
+Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear’d at
+last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The
+Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I
+imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Prevôt des Marchands</i> ought to be chang’d every three Years; but when
+he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou’d think,
+that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou’d not make them so
+vain; for when they are turn’d out of their Employment, they make just the
+same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the <i>Roman</i> Habit, in
+which he has represented <i>Mithridates</i> or <i>Pyrrbus</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I have reason to be as much pleas’d with M. <i>Poultier</i> the Intendant, as I
+have to dislike M. <i>Perichon</i>, the <i>Prevôt des Marchands</i>. I have been to
+<!--180.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span>make
+him a Visit, which he has return’d; and for these four Days that I
+have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People
+of this City, in which there’s good Company, tho’ few Nobility. The
+Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine
+Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so
+little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the
+<i>Lyonnois</i> are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb’d in Commerce as
+to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me
+very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and
+the Bottle.</p>
+
+<p>The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the
+best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if
+they don’t get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one
+of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig’d to yield the Precedence to a
+Journeyman Shopkeeper. There’s an old Actress here, who forty Years ago
+was the Darling of the Generality of <i>Lyons</i>: The People of good Taste
+wish her banish’d from the Theatre, but there’s no persuading this
+superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither’d Charms: She has the
+Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An
+Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better
+employ’d; but Mademoiselle <i>Marez</i>, which is the Name of this Matron,
+remonstrated, that she cou’d not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year,
+that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer,
+that she had no Estate; and that if they touch’d her Pension, she shou’d
+be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail’d, so that it was not
+thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle <i>Marez</i> to an Extremity. A Lady of
+this Province
+happening<!--181.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span>
+to be in Town, and hearing it reported that
+Mademoiselle <i>Marez</i> had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her
+Gallant, said smartly, <i>Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn’d; She takes
+the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I often take the Air here in the Square of <i>Belle-Cour</i>, or <i>Lewis le
+Grand</i>, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a
+great many very pretty Women, and well dress’d, who act the Ladies of
+Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at <i>Belle-Cour</i> to you, without
+acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: ’Tis not pav’d, nor near so wide
+as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated;
+and it were to be wish’d, that those on the two Sides were of the same
+Proportion. On one Side of this Square there’s a Row of Trees, and in the
+Middle an Equestrian Statue of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who is there represented on
+Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription
+than the Name, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span> XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great
+deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal <i>de Villeroi</i>,
+who engag’d the Citizens of <i>Lyons</i> to be at the Expence of it, thought it
+the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou’d be paid to the
+Original.</p>
+
+<p>There’s another Square here call’d <i>les Terreaux</i>, which is worthy of
+Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and
+magnificent Edifice of Stone. <i>Lewis</i> XIV. on Horseback is represented in
+Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the
+Square of <i>Terreaux</i> stands the Abbey of St. <i>Peter</i>, which is a great
+Building, and, when finish’d, will not want for Magnificence. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--182.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Paris, March 20, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the sake of good Wine I preferr’d the <i>Djon</i> Road to <i>Paris</i>, before
+the great Road from <i>Lyons</i> thro’ <i>Tarare</i>; but I have been rightly serv’d
+for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos’d on, and
+did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in
+all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my
+Chaise to <i>Chalons</i> upon the <i>Saone</i>, and went thither by Water in the
+Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the <i>Diligence</i> (Stage Coach) to
+<i>Paris</i>. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I
+happen’d to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very
+amiable Gentlemen. We pass’d by <span class="smcap">Trevoux</span>, the Capital of the Principality
+of <i>Dombes</i>, of which the Duke <i>de Maine</i> is Sovereign: It came to him by
+Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle <i>de Montpensier</i>, Daughter of
+<i>Gaston</i> of <i>France</i>, Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, a Princess who render’d herself
+famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of <i>Orleans</i>, and by ordering the
+Cannon to be fir’d from the Bastille upon the Army of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who
+never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her
+wou’d never give her leave to marry<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>. ’Twas to reconcile the
+King<!--183.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>
+to
+her, that her Ladyship made the Duke <i>de Maine</i> her Heir. <i>Dombes</i> has a
+Parliament, and <i>Trevoux</i> is famous for the <i>Literary Journal</i> printed
+there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.</p>
+
+<p>After having pass’d <i>Trevoux</i>, we saw several other Towns, Villages and
+Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that ’tis
+possible to imagine. We din’d very much in Haste at a Village, and went
+and lay at <span class="smcap">Macon</span>, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral
+have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. <i>John</i> at
+<i>Lyons</i>. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and
+whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to
+see.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Chalons</span> upon the <i>Saone</i> is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear
+to me to be one jot more considerable than <i>Macon</i>: I went to see the
+Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew’d the
+Apartment where the Duchess of <i>Maine</i> was kept Prisoner during the
+Regency of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>. A Person had need of all that Spirit
+which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers:
+’Twas but a little before, that all the People of <i>France</i> were fond of
+making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall’d by any Princess
+of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she
+fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig’d to live in a miserable Castle,
+with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend
+her<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>. I will hereafter give you a more
+particular<!--184.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>
+Account of this
+Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Chalons</i> I went to <span class="smcap">Dijon</span>, after having pass’d thro’ <i>Beaune</i>, and
+along by the best Vineyards in all <i>Burgundy</i>. To tell you frankly my
+Mind, I had quite another Idea of <i>Dijon</i>, than what I really found it to
+be: ’Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no
+great Appearance, tho’ they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In
+the Street of <i>Conde</i>, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal
+Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the
+Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows,
+which, if the Houses were higher, wou’d make a fine Sight. This Street
+leads to the Place Royale, in which there’s an Equestrian Statue of the
+late King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. which is plac’d on so high a Pedestal, that it even
+raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which
+moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses
+are actually very low, and if they were to be carry’d higher, the Statue
+would look as if it were imprison’d in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was
+cast in <i>Paris</i>, and first carry’d by Water to <i>Auxerre</i>, where it
+remain’d a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a
+manner immoveable; but at last it was remov’d by Land Carriage to <i>Dijon</i>,
+but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it
+appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.</p>
+
+<!--185.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This Statue faces the <i>King’s House</i>, where lives the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i>,
+Governor of the Province. ’Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc’d
+Wings, but can only be reckon’d a very irregular Structure. I did not go
+to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish’d,
+and not worth the Trouble of a View.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the
+vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of <i>Burgundy</i> resided there
+heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously
+accommodated.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dijon</i> was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late
+Pope <i>Benedict</i> XIII. at the Request of the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i>; who was
+very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.</p>
+
+<p>The Ring at <i>Dijon</i> is the finest Thing about this City; which is really
+neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above
+civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their
+Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of <i>Bussi Rabutin</i>, and you will know
+what Sort of Gentry the <i>Burgundians</i> are; for they are all, like him,
+puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists
+generally of Persons of Quality.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of <i>Bourbon</i> is the fourth Governor of <i>Burgundy</i>, of the <i>Conde</i>
+Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never
+comes to <i>Dijon</i>, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count <i>de
+Tavannes</i>, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in
+his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.
+Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought <i>Dijon</i> a melancholy Place; and
+I have seen a great many Towns in <i>France</i> of less Note, which to me had a
+more gay and
+agreeable<!--186.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span>
+Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to
+which I was forc’d to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I
+went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall
+was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would
+have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it
+resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Dijon</i> I went to <span class="smcap">Auxerre</span> and <span class="smcap">Sens</span>, of which the last is the See of
+an Archbishop; and that’s all I can say of it, because I only staid there
+to change Horses. When I came to <i>Auxerre</i>, I found the whole Street where
+the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially
+of Women, who all seem’d very much enrag’d. This was owing to a
+Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify’d her
+Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which
+induc’d her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was
+about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the
+scandalous Chronicle of <i>Auxerre</i> said) a little too intimate with a
+Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker’s Wife, who was
+old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband’s
+Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the
+very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for
+her, she made him a second <i>Abelard</i>. This Tragedy having happen’d just as
+I arriv’d at <i>Auxerre</i>, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed
+against the Baker’s Wife, and hurry’d the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women
+curs’d her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something
+perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they
+had<!--187.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span>
+had her at their
+Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fontainebleau</span>, a Royal Palace which I pass’d thro’, is fourteen Leagues
+from <i>Paris</i>. There’s a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the
+Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for
+the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings
+from <i>Francis</i> I. to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. have made very considerable Additions to
+it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There’s a great
+Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom <i>Francis</i> I. sent
+for on purpose from <i>Italy</i>. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the
+cruel Action committed there by <i>Christina</i>, Queen of <i>Sweden</i>; who caus’d
+her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite <i>Monaldeschi</i>, to be
+assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters,
+which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach’d him for his
+Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> of the Order of the Holy
+Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in
+vain solicited his Pardon. <i>Lewis</i> XIV. was very much disgusted at an
+Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose:
+Indeed, rather than be oblig’d to manifest his Resentment, he chose to
+keep a profound Silence; but tho’ he dissembled it as much as possible,
+<i>Christina</i> perceiv’d, that she had staid too long at his Court, and
+resolv’d to retire to <i>Rome</i>, where in 1689 she died.</p>
+
+<p>But <i>Fontainebleau</i> has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant,
+grand and glorious, <i>viz.</i> the Ceremony of the Marriage of King <i>Lewis</i>
+XV. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i> having marry’d the Queen
+by<!--188.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span>
+Proxy, at
+<i>Strasbourg</i>, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a
+League from <i>Moret</i>; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of
+the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.
+When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other,
+they advanc’d a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp’d; when their
+Majesties alighted, and walk’d to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen
+came near to the King, she kneel’d down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet,
+seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of <i>Orleans</i> and <i>Bourbon</i>
+rais’d her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her:
+The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv’d them with
+such a good-natur’d, modest Air, as prepossess’d the whole Court in her
+Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself
+on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac’d themselves
+according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to <i>Moret</i>. I heard the late
+Duchess of <i>Orleans</i> say, that there was a very great Silence observ’d in
+the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to
+the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the
+Duchess of <i>Orleans</i>, who had seen the Queen in <i>Germany</i>, and at <i>Metz</i>,
+was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became
+general. When they arriv’d at <i>Moret</i>, the King and the Queen, attended by
+the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen’s Closet: There the King
+talk’d; and after having stay’d about an Hour, he return’d to
+<i>Fontainebleau</i>, with the same Train that attended him when he set out
+from thence.</p>
+
+<p>The next Morning, at Eight o’Clock, the Queen arriv’d at <i>Fontainebleau</i>,
+without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey.
+Being<!--189.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span>
+in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to
+the Toilet; when she was dress’d, Word was brought to her, that the King
+was arriv’d; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle
+of Gold Brocade, trimm’d with <i>Spanish</i> Point of Gold, the whole enrich’d
+with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk’d the same
+Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow’d immediately after him,
+supported by the Dukes of <i>Orleans</i> and <i>Bourbon</i>: She was dress’d in a
+Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and
+the Tail of her Gown, were fac’d with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds;
+and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the
+Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and ’tis
+certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very
+grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn’d with a rich Suit of Hangings, of
+blue Velvet, imbroider’d with Gold. The Elector of <i>Cologne</i>, the
+Electoral Prince of <i>Bavaria</i>, now Elector, the Duke <i>Ferdinand</i>, and the
+Bishop of <i>Freisingen</i> and <i>Ratisbon</i>, were present <i>incognito</i> at the
+Ceremony. The Cardinal <i>de Rohan</i> gave their Majesties the Nuptial
+Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Mass, the
+Duke of <i>Bourbon</i>, who perceiv’d it, gave her some Balm-water, by which
+her Majesty found immediate Relief.</p>
+
+<p>After Mass was ended, they return’d in great Ceremony to the Queen’s
+Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and
+Princesses din’d with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the
+Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be
+smother’d, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.</p>
+
+<!--190.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang’d their Apparel, and took
+an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal,
+preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King’s
+Houshold, and follow’d by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses.
+But ’tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent
+than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their
+Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new
+Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted.</p>
+
+<p>When the King and Queen were return’d to the Palace, there was a
+Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp’d with the Princesses of
+the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their
+Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the
+Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir’d,
+but really appear’d trifling to us <i>Germans</i>, who are accustom’d to see
+Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that
+surpasses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the
+Rejoicings upon account of the King’s Marriage. They say there were great
+Illuminations and Bonfires also at <i>Paris</i>; but as I was at
+<i>Fontainebleau</i>, I did not see them. ’Tis certain tho’, that how much
+soever the <i>French</i> were pleas’d with the Marriage of their King, they
+were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread
+cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. ’Tis no
+laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression,
+and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description
+of <i>Fontainebleau</i>.</p>
+
+<!--191.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This Royal Palace is accompanied with a fine Park, which, tho’ not near so
+much adorned as the Park of <i>Versailles</i>, has remarkable Beauties, not to
+be met with in that. The great Canal is superb, and, generally speaking,
+the Palace of <i>Fontainebleau</i>, with all that environs it, has much more of
+the Air of a Royal Palace, than <i>Versailles</i> and <i>Marly</i>. The Village or
+Town of <i>Fontainebleau</i>, for I know not which to call it, is very well
+built. Most of the Lords have great Houses here, where they put their
+Equipages and Domesticks; it being the Custom at the Court of <i>France</i>,
+for every Lord that belongs to the Court to be lodg’d in the King’s
+Palace; and the <i>French</i> are so infatuated with this Practice, that a
+Nobleman had rather be lodg’d in a Manger at Court, than in an Apartment
+ever so commodious and magnificent, in his House at <i>Versailles</i> and
+<i>Fontainebleau</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Road from <i>Fontainebleau</i> to <i>Paris</i> is pav’d all the Way. There are a
+great many fine Houses on it, particularly <span class="smcap">Petitbourg</span>, belonging to the
+Duke <i>d’Antin</i>, to whom it came by Succession, from his Mother, the
+Marchioness <i>Montespan</i>. Very great Buildings have been erected there
+within these few Years, which have the Appearance of Magnificence and
+Grandeur; not to mention the rich Furniture, the Pleasures of the Park,
+and several other Things, so ingeniously chose, and so beautifully
+dispos’d, as are infinitely delightful.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Choisy</span>, which belongs to the first Princess Dowager of <i>Conti</i>, Daughter
+of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. by Mademoiselle <i>de la Valiere</i>, is, to my thinking, one
+of the finest Houses in the Kingdom. ’Tis built intirely in the modern
+Taste, and stands by the River Side. The Apartments are richly adorn’d.
+The Garden which belongs to it is spacious,
+and<!--192.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span>
+several Alleys are cut
+out in it, which yield very fine Walks, and render <i>Choisy</i> an inchanting
+Place. Were I to mention all the other fine Houses to you that are upon
+the Road, I should never have done. If you consult the <i>Delices de la
+France</i>, you will find a large Account of all those Houses, as well as of
+their Names and Situation. For my part, my Head akes so much at this
+Instant, that ’tis impossible for me to add any more: But in a few Days,
+you shall hear farther from me; and then I will give you some Account of
+<i>Paris</i>: In the meantime, believe me to be always Yours intirely, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XXXIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Paris, April 1, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Don’t imagine, that I am going to give you an exact Description of the
+City of <span class="smcap">Paris</span>; for that would be an Undertaking to as little Purpose, as
+it is beyond my Ability. <span class="smcap">Paris</span> has been so fully describ’d, and is so much
+talk’d of, that most People know what Sort of Place it is, though they
+have never seen it. Several Authors are so divided about the Antiquity of
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, that I can say nothing positive to you upon this Head. <i>Cæsar</i>, in
+his Commentaries, speaks very much in its Favour, and says, that in his
+Time, this City was call’d <i>Lutetia</i>. The Learned differ also about the
+Origin<!--193.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span>
+of this<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>Name; but I shall leave them to dispute this Matter as
+long as they please, and assure them, that I am not concerned in their
+Quarrel.</p>
+
+<p>According to Father <i>Daniel</i>, <span class="smcap">Paris</span> was the Capital City of <i>France</i>, in
+the Reign of <i>Clovis</i>, about the Year 507. But even then, <span class="smcap">Paris</span> was a
+Place of very little Consequence; and, if it be duly consider’d, could not
+be rank’d among the great Towns, before the Reign of <i>Philip Augustus</i>;
+That Prince made it his Endeavour to embellish it, and added Buildings to
+it, which at that Time were reckon’d very magnificent. Since his Reign,
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span> has always been the Seat of the Kings, and has been continually
+increasing in Grandeur and Beauty. But none of its Kings has contributed
+so much to the Magnificence of <span class="smcap">Paris</span>, as the Prince who least resided in
+it, I mean <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who caus’d such Structures to be rais’d in it, as
+are worthy of the greatest Monarch in the World. Of some of these Works, I
+may hereafter give you a more particular Account.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>French</i> pretend, that no City in <i>Europe</i> contains so many
+Inhabitants as <span class="smcap">Paris</span>; but the <i>English</i> say, the most populous is
+<i>London</i>; yet, without the least Hesitation, I determine it for the latter
+of the two Rivals. My Reason for it is this: At <span class="smcap">Paris</span>, eighteen or twenty
+thousand<!--194.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>
+People die every Year, and at <i>London</i> twenty-three or
+twenty-four thousand; tho’ I don’t dispute, but <span class="smcap">Paris</span> seems more populous:
+For in the latter, every body is to be seen in the Streets, either on Foot
+or in Coaches; whereas at <i>London</i>, Passengers are continually going up
+and down the <i>Thames</i>; which River is seldom without carrying forty or
+fifty thousand People, who, if diffus’d in the Streets, would make them
+look fuller of People than those of <span class="smcap">Paris</span>. Besides, what makes the Capital
+of <i>France</i> appear to be more populous, is, that it has more Coaches and
+Carts; whereas at <i>London</i>, one always sees Goods going up or down the
+River; which is the Reason, that Carts are not so much in Use there: And
+most of the Ladies, instead of Coaches, ride in Sedans. But a <i>Frenchman</i>
+will tell me, you shall see five or six Families in one House at <span class="smcap">Paris</span>;
+whereas at <i>London</i>, they are seldom two. To this I shall answer, that
+’tis true, there are more Lodgers in the Houses of <span class="smcap">Paris</span>; but this stands
+for nothing, and only proves, that there are more Houses at <i>London</i>. At
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, there are many Hôtels, or great Houses, Convents, large Gardens,
+public Squares, Quays, and a River that runs through the Middle; all which
+takes up a great deal of Ground; and in several of the Suburbs, without
+which <span class="smcap">Paris</span> itself is but a little Place, there are intire Marshes. But at
+<i>London</i>,’tis quite otherwise, such Hôtels are uncommon there, and few
+Houses there have Courts to them. They are all very much pent up, and many
+a House at <i>London</i> is not so big as the Halls in a great many of the
+Hôtels at <span class="smcap">Paris</span>.</p>
+
+<p>But what matters it, whether <i>London</i> is bigger or less than <span class="smcap">Paris</span>? I
+shall now speak of the latter, not as the biggest, but as the most
+beautiful City in <i>Europe</i>. ’Tis reckon’d, there are in <span
+class="smcap">Paris<!--195.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span></span>
+nine
+hundred Streets, with above twenty thousand Houses, of which four thousand
+have great Gates, and Courts to turn Coaches in. The Number of Inhabitants
+amounts to above eighty thousand; in which must be reckon’d one hundred
+and fifty thousand Domestics. There are at least twenty thousand Coaches,
+and near one hundred and twenty thousand Horses for Carriages of all
+Sorts, of which, one Year with another, ten thousand die. In fine, the
+very Expence of the Lanthorns, which are lighted nine Months in the Year,
+is computed at two hundred thousand Crowns at least. The common Revenues
+which the City of <span class="smcap">Paris</span> produces, are said to amount at least to
+twenty-eight Millions of Livres; a Sum, which, I believe, is not rais’d by
+some Kingdoms.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Paris</span> enjoys all the Prerogatives that can be enjoy’d by the Capital of a
+powerful Kingdom. This City has not only the Reputation of being the
+Residence of Kings, but is the Seat of an Archbishop, a Parliament, an
+University, an Intendant, a Governor, and of all the Sovereign Courts in
+the Government. Its Metropolitan Church, which was heretofore no more than
+the See of a Bishop, Suffragan to the Archbishop of <i>Sens</i>, is dedicated
+to the Virgin <i>Mary</i>. St. <i>Denys</i>, who liv’d in the first Ages of
+Christianity, is own’d to be its Founder, or at least its first Bishop.
+Its first Archbishop was <i>Francis de Gondy</i>, who obtain’d that Dignity by
+a Bull of Pope <i>Gregory</i> XV. in 1622. since which Time there have been
+seven Archbishops. Whoever is the Archbishop, has the Title of Duke of St.
+<i>Cloud</i>, and in that Quality is both Duke and Peer of <i>France</i>. The
+present Archbishop’s Name is <i>N. N. de Vintimille</i> of the Counts <i>du Luc</i>.
+He succeeded <i>Lewis-Antony</i>, Cardinal <i>de Noailles</i>, and finds his Diocese
+as disobedient to his Mandates, as it was to those of his Predecessor.
+<!--196.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span>The
+good Prelate does all he can, to bring back his<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>stray’d Sheep; but
+it seems as if most of the <i>Parisians</i> know not what they would be at; and
+indeed the greatest Number dispute about Matters, which they don’t
+understand. I find the Talk of all <span class="smcap">Paris</span> engross’d by two grand Subjects;
+I mean grand for the <i>Parisians</i>, and, if I may venture to say it, for the
+<i>French</i> in general: For, to be plain, ’tis owing to the Want of something
+else to talk of during a long Peace, that they busy themselves very
+seriously about Things, which at other Times they would think unworthy of
+their Attention. The one is the Affair of Father <i>Girard</i> and <i>la
+Cadiere</i>; the other, the pretended Miracles of the Abbé <i>Paris</i>. There is
+nothing so base, with which Knavery and a furious Zeal can inspire a
+Party, but what has been said and written on these Subjects. The Enemies
+of the <i>Jesuits</i> have<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>invented,
+that<!--197.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span>
+Father <i>John Baptist Girard</i>, a
+Native of <i>Dole</i> in <i>Franche Comté</i>, debauch’d one <i>la Cadiere</i>, who came
+to him for Confession; they prevail’d on the young Woman to accuse him of
+Crimes, the very Idea of which is shocking, and which the most resolute
+Villain would not dare perhaps to be guilty of, much less Father <i>Girard</i>;
+who, till accus’d of this Wickedness, had always <i>pass’d</i> for an honest
+Man, whose Conduct and Morals had been edifying in Places where he had
+been, and particularly at <i>Toulon</i>, where nevertheless he is said to have
+committed the most horrid Enormities. But <i>la Cadiere</i> has recanted; and
+the Parlement of <i>Aix</i>, before whom the Cause was pleaded, has declar’d
+Father <i>Girard</i> innocent. Yet the <i>Jansenists</i> exclaim, and wish that the
+King would cause the Members of that Parlement to be hang’d up, because
+they could not in Conscience bring in Father <i>Girard</i> guilty.</p>
+
+<p>The following <i>Epigram</i> is lately publish’d upon that Parlement:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Pour avoir immolé le Fils du Tout-Puissant</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i><span class="f">Pilate</span> moins que vous nous parut detestable;</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Il ne reçût point d’or pour punir l’Innocent,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Mais vous en recevez pour sauver le coupable.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;"><i>i. e.</i></div>
+
+<p><i>Pilate</i>, tho’ he sacrific’d the Son of the Almighty, is even less
+detestable in our Eyes than you; for he receiv’d no Gold to punish the
+Innocent, but you take it to save the Guilty.</p>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">Or thus:</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Of Judges that in Judgment sit,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Whether incurs most Banns,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>He that for Gold doth Vice acquit,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Or Virtue <span class="f">gratis</span>
+damns?</i><!--198.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i><span class="f">Pilate</span>, who sacrific’d the Son</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Of the Almighty Lord,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Because no Golden Bribe he won,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Is less than you abhorr’d.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Father <i>Girard</i>’s Adventure calls to my Mind a great Scandal of this
+Nature, that happen’d in the fourth Century, on Occasion of a Lady’s
+Confession to a Deacon; which obliged the Patriarch <i>Nectarius</i> to abolish
+Auricular Confession throughout the <i>East</i>; as may be seen in the fourth
+Tome of <i>Fleuri</i>’s <i>Ecclesiastical History</i>. This Author, in his Sixteenth
+Tome, says, that in the twelfth Century there were Abbesses in <i>Spain</i>,
+who preach’d, gave Blessings, and confessed Persons of both Sexes. If this
+Practice was re-establish’d, there would be no Room to fear such Disorders
+and Scandals as have happen’d in <i>Provence</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The second Topic, which takes up a great deal of the <i>Parisians</i>
+Conversation, is the pretended Miracles of the Sieur <i>Paris</i>, to whose
+Tomb People flock as much as they could be suppos’d to do to the <i>Holy
+Sepulchre</i> itself. Curiosity drew me thither as well as others; and I
+found such a vast Crowd of People, that ’twas with much ado I could get to
+the Stone which covers the Saint of the Populace. While I was looking at
+this Tombstone, I heard ’em cry behind, <i>Stand by, make Room there</i>; so
+that I thought some Prince of the Blood was coming; but ’twas no more than
+a mean-looking Fellow, who, with a very contrite Air, went and stretch’d
+himself on the Tomb; where he had not lain many Moments, but I saw him
+turn up the Whites of his Eyes, grind his Teeth, foam at the Mouth, and
+twist his Body into such Postures, that he look’d more like one that had
+the Devil in him, than the Favourite of a Saint. These Agitations lasted
+as long as
+the<!--199.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span>
+Man had any Strength; after which he was carry’d off, and
+I assure you, that when he was taken from the Tomb, he had a much more
+sickly Look than when he came to it. Nevertheless the People bawl’d out,
+<i>A Miracle!</i> and I even heard it said, <i>Who can doubt one Moment, after so
+manifest a Cure as this, that <span class="f">Paris</span> is a Saint!</i></p>
+
+<p>Such Miracles, as this that I have now related to you, are work’d here
+every Day: One can’t set a Foot into a House, without being entertain’d
+with some new Story plac’d to the Accompt of the Abbé <i>Paris</i>; yet I
+protest, that not one single Miracle has been prov’d: and M. <i>Herault</i>,
+the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whom all these Miracles are
+reported, said, in my Hearing, that there was not one of them true; that
+’twas a palpable Delusion; and that ’twas only tolerated, the better to
+trace it up to its Source, and to undeceive the Populace; which, I
+believe, will be no easy Matter, they are so much prepossess’d in Favour
+of their Saint. The only Way would be for the Pope to canonise the Sieur
+<i>Paris</i>, and then I am persuaded, that all the Devotees of this new Saint
+wou’d abandon him, rather than be in the Holy Father’s Mess. But here I
+leave both Father <i>Girard</i> and the Abbé <i>Paris</i>, though perhaps I shall
+find an Opportunity of discovering all that I may hear of them to you,
+when I think it worthy of your Regard; but I shall be far from troubling
+you with every impertinent Tale that is reread about them; for I verily
+believe, that all the Songs and Verses that are made upon them wou’d form
+several Volumes: And it must be expected this Humour will last, till
+something new starts up to drown both these Subjects of present
+Conversation. I own to you, that I am very much in Pain to think what the
+<i>French</i> can have to amuse them after this is over; for their Genius is
+such, that it must have
+something<!--200.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span>
+to work upon, tho’ ’tis happy for them
+that a mere Nothing suffices, and that such Nothing is always treated by
+them as a serious Affair, and proves to them an inexhaustible Fund of
+Something.</p>
+
+<p>You ask me, how I employ my Time here? which is a Question that is not
+very soon answer’d. My Amusements are of such various Kinds, that, to be
+plain with you, I find myself at a loss to account for them. I should
+often be very much puzzled to prove an <i>alibi</i> of two Days. This Country
+is my Centre, and <span class="smcap">Paris</span> is to me the Spring of Youth. Never was any
+Reflection more mortifying to me, than the Thought that I am not in a
+Condition to fix my Habitation here; for tho’ I find Faults in the
+<i>French</i>, as well as in all other Nations, yet I acknowledge they have a
+thousand good Qualities; and I think them much more amiable at home than
+they are abroad, where, be a Man ever so much prepossess’d in their Favour
+upon other Accounts, he is surfeited with their eternal Criticisms, and to
+hear them incessantly remarking, <i>They don’t do so at <span class="f">Paris</span>. You don’t see
+this in <span class="f">France</span></i>. Here they are polite, good-natur’d, humane, civil and
+engaging; and a Foreigner, who can bring himself ever so little into their
+Way of Thinking, Acting, and Speaking, will always be sorry to leave them.</p>
+
+<p>But I am not about giving you the Character of the <i>French</i>; what I am now
+to acquaint you with is, how I live with them. In a very irregular Course
+of Life, I aim at a certain Regularity: I rise very late, because I don’t
+go to Bed till Two or Three o’Clock in the Morning: When I am dress’d, I
+go to some Cabinet of Curiosities, some Library, or to some Structure or
+other, which, tho’ I have seen perhaps an hundred times, I revisit with
+Pleasure, because I always find some new Beauty in it. Such are the Hôtel
+or Hospital of the
+<i>Invalids</i>,<!--201.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span>
+founded and built by <i>Lewis</i> XIV. <i>Val de
+Grace</i>, the Church which is the Repositary of the Hearts and Bowels of the
+Kings and Princes of the Royal Family, and was founded by <i>Anne</i> of
+<i>Austria</i>, Mother to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. the Choir of <i>Notre Dame</i>, adorn’d with
+Marble and Brass by <i>Lewis</i> XIV. to fulfill a Vow made by King <i>Lewis</i>
+XIII. his Father; the <i>Louvre</i>, with all the Beauties it contains; and, in
+fine, a Number of other stately Fabrics, which I don’t mention or describe
+to you, because a thousand Authors have already given a better Account of
+them, than I am able to do. After having thus saunter’d away two or three
+Hours, I return home to Dinner; for I rarely dine abroad: When I have
+din’d, if I am alone, I read for an Hour or two; after which I go out,
+either to make Visits, or else to take the Air. I often go to their Plays,
+not only because I have a Taste that way, but to avoid Gaming; for you
+can’t go into a House, but they bring out the Cards. After the Comedy is
+over, which I am forc’d, whether I will or not, to prefer to the Opera, I
+go to some House, where there’s no saying nay, but I must make one at
+Quadrille, to ease me of my Money; for I know not what ’tis to win. I am
+entertain’d with a good Supper, and then I join in a second Party at
+Quadrille, and sometimes in a third; and go home at three o’Clock in the
+Morning, with an empty Pocket.</p>
+
+<p>This Itch for Gaming, which has infected the Generality of the <i>French</i>,
+is look’d upon as one of the Plagues of the Nation. I can’t imagine how
+’tis possible for People, who can scarce stay a Quarter of an Hour in one
+Place, but are generally restless where-ever they are, to sit five or six
+Hours together in cutting and shuffling the Cards. ’Tis however a
+necessary Evil, especially for a Foreigner, who must otherwise make a very
+silly<!--202.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>
+Figure, till he is quite initiated in the Customs of the Country.
+The Ladies say of a Man who does not play, that he is a useless Piece of
+Lumber; and the most flaming Lovers cease to make Love, as soon as Cards
+are brought upon the Carpet.</p>
+
+<p>There are some Houses however, where this Passion for Gaming is not quite
+so prevalent; ’tis said too, that the Lawyers Houses are not so liable to
+the Contagion; but I own, I am not conversant enough with them to know the
+Difference. ’Tis certain, that at Court they play deeper than any-where,
+and very many of the Nobility have impair’d their Fortunes, for the sake
+of having the Honour to be one of a Party with the King. His Majesty
+commonly plays at Lansquenet; the Party consists of twelve Cutters, who
+set a <i>Lewis d’Or</i> upon the Card. The King, and the principal Gamesters,
+as the Count <i>de Tholouse</i>, the Duke <i>d’Antin</i>, the Duke <i>de Grammont</i>,
+and the like, set two, and sometimes four <i>Lewis d’Ors</i> upon a Stake. The
+King is reckon’d to have the best Luck of all that play in the Queen’s
+Apartment: Any body that is well dress’d is admitted to make one of the
+Company, which forms a great Court, tho’ a mix’d Assembly. All the Ladies
+sit round the Gaming-table, and the Men stand. The <i>French</i> say, that
+Gaming sets every body upon a Level. There’s one <i>S. Remi</i>, who had been a
+Lacquey first to the Marshal <i>d’Estrée</i>’s Lady, and then to the Duke of
+<i>Bourbon</i>, who preferr’d him to be his <i>Valet de Chambre</i>, and at the
+Queen’s Arrival gave him a Post in her Majesty’s Houshold, which he held
+at the same time that he officiated as the Duke’s <i>Valet de Chambre</i>: I
+have seen this Man raise or fall the Mirth of the King’s Company at
+Pleasure; ’tis true, he does not cut; but he is at every Card, and makes
+very good Pastime. At <i>Fontainebleau</i>, I heard him one Day bet the King
+twenty
+<i>Lewis</i><!--203.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>
+<i>d’Ors</i>, upon his own Card against his Majesty’s. The King
+answer’d coolly, <i>No, Marquis</i>; which is a Nickname that his Majefty has
+given him, and may nevertheless be transmitted to the Posterity of this
+<i>S. Remi</i>, who is moreover Fop enough to be a Marquis.</p>
+
+<p>This Medley of People at Play has been the Custom in <i>France</i> at all
+times. I remember to have heard the late Mother of the Regent say, That
+when she went upon a time from <i>Versailles</i>, where she resided with the
+King, to see her Husband, <i>Lewis</i> XIV’s Brother, who was gone to spend a
+few Days at St. <i>Cloud</i>, she found him playing at Lansquenet with a dozen
+Cutters, of whom she knew but two; and when the Game was out, she ask’d
+her Husband, who the People were that he had been playing with: <i>They are
+very honest Fellows</i>, reply’d the Prince, <i>good substantial Tradesmen of
+<span class="f">Paris</span>, who play well, and for a great deal of Money</i>. The old Lady gave us
+moreover to understand, that she had not been at that time long in
+<i>France</i>, and that she was so vex’d to find her Husband in such Company,
+that she cou’d not forbear to upbraid him for it; but her Husband turn’d
+it all off with a Laugh, and made her Answer, <i>That she had still a Spice
+of the <span class="f">German</span> Haughtiness, but that it would wear off in Time</i>.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis certain however, that this Liberty, with which all Sorts of People
+are indulg’d, of coming in for a Game and away, renders them fawcy. That
+noted Comedian <i>Baron</i>, the greatest Coxcomb of all Men living before the
+<i>Quinaults</i>, was one Day at the House of the Prince <i>de Conti</i>, the same
+that had been chose King of <i>Poland</i>, where they were playing at
+Lansquenet. <i>Baron</i>, pulling his Purse out with a careless Air, said to
+the Prince, <i>Ten Lewis D’Ors upon the Knave, <span class="f">M. de Conti</span>. Done,
+<span class="f">Britannicus</span></i>, said the Prince <i>de Conti</i>, who knew
+that<!--204.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span>
+<i>Baron</i> had been
+just acting that Part in a Play. It is certain, that at many of the Womens
+Houses, the Gamesters are as much pamper’d as a Father Confessor is by his
+Female Votary. A greet many Houses subsist here by the Emoluments of
+Gaming, where, were it not for the Money arising from their Cards, their
+Suppers would be very light, and many that now ride wou’d go on Foot. The
+Duke <i>de Gevres</i>, Governor of <i>Paris</i>, and the Prince <i>de Carignan</i>, who
+have a Grant for licensing all manner of Gaming, have farm’d it out, and
+get 120,000 Livres a-piece by it clear Money; which one shall hardly find
+in any City in the World.</p>
+
+<p>This Gaming puts me in mind of a Lottery they have here every Month, which
+is a Sort of Game too, where the Banker is the greatest Gainer. These
+Lotteries have been set on foot by the Parson of the Parish of St.
+<i>Sulpice</i>, to help build his Church, and twenty Sols is the Price of each
+Ticket; but they prove the utter Undoing of many a Lacquey and
+Maid-Servant; which made a Friend of mine say, that the Parson of St.
+<i>Sulpice</i>, out of Gratitude to the poor Devils, for burying their Wages in
+his Lottery, could do no less, when they die, than bury their Carcases for
+nothing. This Lottery is worth to the Parson about 20,000 Livres a Month,
+besides the Sums he gets from the pious Contributions of several Persons
+zealous for the House of God: Nevertheless these Works go on so slowly,
+that the Parson’s Trowel is not like to be laid aside yet-a-while, tho’,
+if his Church be ever finished, ’twill be the greatest and the finest in
+the Kingdom; for all the new Works are design’d by <i>Giles Maria Oppenord</i>,
+the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>’s chief Architect, and one of the most skilful of
+his Profession in <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Parsonage of St. <i>Sulpice</i> is the most considerable, not only of
+<i>Paris</i>, but perhaps of
+<i>Europe</i>;<!--205.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span>
+for it brings in the Parson as much as
+some good Dioceses do their Bishops. The Right of Presentation to it is in
+the Abbat and Friers of the Abbey of St. <i>Germain</i>. The present Incumbent
+is M. <i>Languet de Gergy</i>, who has one Brother that is Bishop of
+<i>Soissons</i><a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>, and another now an Ambassador at <i>Venice</i><a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a>. The
+Vigilance both of the Pastor, and of the Priests whom he employs for
+administring the Sacraments, cannot but be commended: The latter form a
+numerous Society, attend their Function with Application, and Divine
+Service is perform’d in the Church with very great Edification. The
+Society, and several Seminaries join’d to it, form together the most
+numerous Body of Clergy in all the Kingdom. The Seminary of St. <i>Sulpice</i>
+is one of the most frequented, because the Ecclesiastical Discipline is
+there taught and practis’d with Care; perhaps too, because Subjects are
+often taken from thence for the chief Dignities of the Church. Nothing is
+more edifying than to see the Procession of this Parish upon the Day of
+<i>Corpus Christi</i>, when there’s a numerous Appearance of the Clergy in
+magnificent Copes: The Canopy, under which the Holy Sacrament is carry’d,
+is extraordinary rich. Twenty-four young Clergymen go before the Holy
+Sacrament, and twelve always walk backward, perfuming the Host, as they
+go, with Censers of Silver. There is not a Procession in the Kingdom that
+is made with more Dignity and Order<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>. With your Favour, I will conclude
+this<!--206.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>
+Letter with the bare Mention of this Sacred Ceremony. As I propose
+to go to-morrow to <i>Versailles</i>, I shall send you what Observations I make
+there. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XL.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Versailles, April 15, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I have been now just ten Days at <i>Versailles</i>, where I have had the Honour
+of greeting the King and Queen, and all the Royal Family. I perceiv’d the
+King since his Marriage is grown very fat, but he is still one of the
+finest Princes in <i>Europe</i>. It may be said of <i>Lewis</i> XV. that he is a
+Prince born without Vice, and free from that Haughtiness, which is
+commonly attach’d to Royalty: He is familiar with his Courtiers, reserv’d
+to Persons that are unknown to him, and particularly to Ambassadors, and
+more secret and circumspect than Persons of his Age. He has the Morals,
+Behaviour, and Sentiments of a good Man, and from thence <i>France</i> may
+expect his Reign will be gentle and peaceful. It appears, as if <i>Lewis</i>
+XV. will be content with the Government of one of the most powerful
+Monarchies of the World, and that
+he<!--207.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span>
+will not be inclin’d to disturb
+<i>Europe</i>, for the sake of conquering a Town or a Province. He has been
+educated in such Sentiments of Justice, that his Neighbours ought not to
+be afraid of him, since God has undoubtedly chose him to be one of the
+Arbitrators of <i>Europe</i>, in order for the Preservation, and not for the
+Destruction of Equity: <i>Lewis</i> the <i>Pacific</i> and the <i>Debonaire</i> will be
+his distinguishing Titles: Must not these be dearer to his Subjects, than
+the bloody Title of <i>Lewis</i> the <i>Conqueror</i>? And may he not be great, and
+at the same time a Lover of Peace? Hitherto the King seems to follow the
+Plans of Government chalk’d out by the late Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, his
+Father, whose Wisdom is still rever’d by <i>France</i>. God grant that he may
+always take them for his Models, and that his Reign may be long, and end
+as glorious as it begun!</p>
+
+<p>I never cast my Eyes upon <i>Lewis</i> XV. without admiring the Providence
+which has preserv’d him, contrary to the People’s Expectation. I have had
+the Honour to see him Duke of <i>Anjou</i>, his Brother, the Duke of
+<i>Bretagne</i>, being then alive. I have seen him the Dauphin of <i>France</i>, and
+at length I have seen him on the Throne: He had at one time a pale
+Complexion, which did not promise long Life. What Diseases has he not
+labour’d under! yet he now enjoys a perfect State of Health, and the
+Crown, which was so likely to devolve to collateral Branches, is
+establish’d upon the Head of this young Prince, and like to descend to his
+own Posterity. In fine, a King of <i>France</i>, Father of five Children living
+before he is twenty Years of Age, is such a Phænomenon as is hardly to be
+parallell’d in antient or modern History, and ’tis in my Opinion more
+extraordinary even than the advanc’d Age, and the long Reign of his
+Great-Grandfather.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen is a Princess of exemplary Virtue, whose sole Application is to
+discharge her Duties
+to<!--208.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span>
+God, the King, and her Children: She is extremely
+gracious and civil, and has a great Happiness of expressing herself in the
+<i>French</i>, <i>German</i>, and <i>Polish</i> Languages: She had formerly a great Taste
+for Music, and is now fond of Reading; but being entirely conformable to
+her Husband’s Sentiments, she takes no manner of Share in the Government:
+She loves no Pageantry nor Ceremony, and the Rank of being the first Queen
+in the World seems to have no other Effect upon her, than to render her
+Virtues more venerable and conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p>As for the Children of <i>France</i>, they are as yet too young to be
+characteris’d. Mean time I assure you, ’tis a fine Sight to see them going
+to the Queen’s Apartment, or running along the Gallery, with at least
+forty Attendants in their Train, including the Ladies and Chambermaids.
+The Person intrusted with the Care of the Education of the Children of
+<i>France</i> is the Duchess <i>de Ventadour</i>; but as she is very far advanced in
+Years, and not able to be with them every-where, the Duchess of <i>Tallard</i>,
+her Grand-daughter, is join’d with her in the Commission. This Lady is the
+Daughter of the Prince <i>de Rohan</i>, Brother to the Cardinal: The Choice
+which has been made of her to succeed the Duchess of <i>Ventadour</i>, has been
+applauded by the whole Court; and in short, there are few Ladies that have
+a more noble Carriage, more Politeness, and sublimer Sentiments: And ’tis
+very remarkable, that since the Birth of the Dauphin, <i>Lewis</i> XIVth’s only
+Son, the Mother, the Daughter, and the Grand-daughter have always been
+trusted with the Education of the Children of <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Her Royal Highness, the Widow of the Regent, who is Daughter to <i>Lewis</i>
+XIV. by Madame <i>de Montespan</i>, is the first in Rank at Court, and she is
+the only Princess that has a Right to sit at Table with their Majesties,
+when they dine in State;
+but<!--209.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>
+’tis a Prerogative that she does not often
+make use of, because she has such a Dislike to Dress, that she appears
+little at Court; and when she comes to the King or Queen, ’tis in private:
+She commonly resides at <i>Paris</i>, or at <i>Bagnolet</i><a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>: She is the only
+Princess of the Kingdom that has Guards, and enjoys the Honours of a
+Daughter of <i>France</i>. King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. granted all these great
+Distinctions to the late Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, in Favour of this Marriage, to
+which that Prince agreed against the Consent of his late Father, and the
+express Prohibition of his Mother; who was so exasperated against her Son,
+for not resisting <i>Lewis</i> XIVth’s Will and Pleasure, that she lifted up
+her Hand against him, when he told her that he was just marry’d, would not
+see her Daughter-in-law for a long time, and never could endure the
+Thoughts of the Match, till she saw her Grand-daughter marry’d to the Duke
+of <i>Berry</i>. Since that time, she has not been so strongly prejudic’d
+against her, but acknowledges her Royal Highness’s Virtues, and always
+kept a good Correspondence with her. This Princess lives very retir’d in
+the Midst of the Court, and is very much employ’d in Works of Piety.</p>
+
+<p>Her Son, the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, is a Prince of exemplary Devotion, being
+almost continually at Prayer, or performing Works of Charity: He made two
+or three Attempts to retire from the World, but the King thinking his
+Presence necessary in his Council, would not consent to it. His most
+serene Highness is the first Prince of the Blood, and Governor of
+<i>Dauphiny</i>; and he was once Colonel and Captain General of the <i>French</i>
+Infantry, but he resign’d that Post some Years ago. This Prince marry’d
+the Princess of <i>Baden</i>, by whom he has a Son styl’d Duke of <i>Chartres</i>, a
+hopeful young Prince, who
+is<!--210.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span>
+educated at St. <i>Cloud</i>, remote from the
+Grandeur and Hurry of the Court.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of <i>Orleans</i> has also four Sisters in the Kingdom, the eldest of
+whom is the Abbess <i>de Chelles</i>, who was formerly styl’d Mademoiselle <i>de
+Chartres</i>. This Princess, in spite of all the Persuasions of the late
+Regent and the Duchess, who did their utmost to divert her from it, took
+the Habit of a Nun, tho’ she was one of the most amiable Princesses in
+<i>Europe</i>, and might have made a great Prince happy.</p>
+
+<p>The second Sister is the Queen of <i>Spain</i>, the Dowager of <i>Lewis</i> I. whom
+she marry’d when he was Prince of <i>Asturias</i>, before his Father resign’d
+the Crown of <i>Spain</i> to him; but the young King did not live long to enjoy
+it, and after his Death, the young Queen Dowager having a Desire to return
+to <i>France</i>, their Catholic Majesties consented to it, and the King of
+<i>France</i> allow’d her the Castle of <i>Vincennes</i> to reside in, where for
+some time she liv’d: She had not been there many Weeks, when she receiv’d
+a Visit from the King, who said, before he went, that his Visit would be
+short. <i>I am not very talkative</i>, said his Majesty, <i>and they say, that
+the Queen of <span class="f">Spain</span> does not talk at all; so that I don’t believe we shall
+have much Conversation</i>: And indeed the Visit was very short. The Queen
+receiv’d the King at the Step of the Coach, and the King taking her by the
+Hand, led her into his Chamber, where two Arm-Chairs were plac’d for them
+under a Canopy. The King seated himself on the Right Hand, and after a few
+Words spoke by the Duke <i>de Bourbon</i>, and the Duke <i>de Noailles</i>, who, as
+Captain of the Guards, stood behind the King’s Chair, his Majesty rose,
+and went away with the same Ceremonies as he came. Some time after this,
+the Queen of <i>Spain</i> went to visit the King, when her Guards were plac’d
+in all the
+Posts<!--211.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span>
+of <i>Versailles</i>, the King’s Guards being order’d to make
+room for them. The King receiv’d the Queen as she alighted from the Coach,
+and every thing pass’d with the same Formality as at <i>Vincennes</i>. The
+Queen of <i>Spain</i>, after some Stay at the Castle of <i>Vincennes</i>, went to
+live in those Apartments at <i>Luxembourg</i>, which had been the Residence of
+her Sister the Duchess of <i>Berry</i>; but some time ago she retir’d to a
+Convent, and her Family, which was at first exceeding numerous, was very
+much reduc’d. If we except the vain Honours of Royalty, she would have
+been far more happy, if she had never been a Queen; for then she might
+have marry’d again; whereas now she must continue a Widow, and pass the
+Prime of her Days in Solitude and Retirement.</p>
+
+<p>The third Sister of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i> is Mademoiselle <i>de Beaujolois</i>,
+who was design’d as a Match for the Infante, Don <i>Carlos</i>; but when the
+Infanta of <i>Spain</i> was sent back from <i>France</i>, return’d to this Kingdom
+with the Queen, her Sister: She is one of the most beautiful and most
+amiable Princesses upon Earth, worthy to reign, and worthy of the
+Infante<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle <i>d’Orleans</i><a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>, her Sister, is a very charming Princess,
+with an exceeding graceful Air, and Behaviour fully answerable to her
+Birth.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the Family of <i>Orleans</i>, the first in Rank is that of <i>Conde</i>,
+which consists of three Princes, and six Princesses: The Duke <i>de Bourbon</i>
+is the chief, who is great Steward of the King’s Houshold, and Governor of
+<i>Burgundy</i>, His Highness lost one Eye in Hunting, by an unfortunate Shot
+from the
+Duke<!--212.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span>
+of <i>Berry</i>: He was marry’d very young to Mademoiselle <i>de
+Conti</i> his Cousin, who died without Issue. He was also but young when he
+made the Campaigns in <i>Germany</i>, in Company with his Brother-in-law the
+Prince of <i>Conti</i>. After the Decease of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. the Duke went to Law
+with the legitimated Princes, and caus’d the Duke <i>de Maine</i> to be
+degraded from the Rank of Prince of the Blood, to which he had been
+promoted by an Arret solemnly register’d in Parliament during the Life of
+the late King. The Duke of <i>Bourbon</i> demanded, as first Prince of the
+Blood, whom he then represented, by reason of the tender Age of the Duke
+of <i>Chartres</i>, now Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, to have the Superintendance of the
+King’s Education, to which Post the Duke <i>de Maine</i> had been nominated by
+the late King’s last Will: He obtain’d his Demand, and the Duke <i>de Maine</i>
+retir’d to <i>Seaux</i>. The Duke <i>de Bourbon</i> had after this a great Share in
+the Affairs of the Regency, and the Duke of <i>Orleans</i> took care to keep
+him in good Humour. At the unexpected Death of the Regent, the Duke, being
+then at <i>Versailles</i>, went to the King, and demanded the Post of Prime
+Minister, vacant by the Death of his Royal Highness, and obtain’d it. The
+late M. <i>de la Vrilliere</i>, Secretary of State, being perhaps a little too
+forgetful of his Obligations to the Son of a Prince who had heap’d Favours
+upon him, drew up the Patent instantly, and caus’d it to be sign’d by the
+King, before the Duke of <i>Chartres</i>, who was at the Opera at <i>Paris</i>,
+could hear the News of his Father’s Death; so that tho’ he went Post to
+<i>Versailles</i>, and demanded the Office of First Minister, the Duke of
+<i>Bourbon</i> told him, that the King had dispos’d of it to himself. The Duke
+was no sooner vested with the Authority of Prime Minister, than he made
+great Alterations in the Government; but these are the Subject of History
+rather than of
+a<!--213.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span>
+Letter. M. <i>le Blanc</i>, who had been Secretary at War,
+and was the Darling of the Officers, was committed to the <i>Bastille</i>; and
+M. <i>de Breteuil</i>, who had been formerly Master of the Requests, and
+Intendant of <i>Tours</i>, succeeded him in that Office; which was the
+Consequence of a Misunderstanding, or rather a Hatred, between two Ladies,
+who were the Mistresses, the one of the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i>, the other of M.
+<i>le Blanc</i>. All the Friends of the latter, among whom was M. the Count <i>de
+Belle-Isle</i>, shared in his Disgrace. The four Brothers of the Name of
+<i>Paris</i> had the Management of the Finances, of which Brothers two had been
+Soldiers in the Guards; but they had the Cunning to extricate themselves
+from that melancholy State, and to render themselves necessary to the
+Government during the Time of the Regency. M. <i>d’Argenson</i> Keeper of the
+Seals had been their Patron, and rais’d them upon the Ruins of Mr. <i>John
+Law</i>, and his System. Whatever was done by these Brothers is foreign to my
+Purpose: Their rapid Fortune drew Envy upon them, and they soon became the
+Objects of the public Hatred.</p>
+
+<p>The most remarkable Transactions of the Duke’s Administration, were the
+sending back of the Infanta, and the Marriage of the King. The Duke,
+foreseeing the Inconveniencies to which <i>France</i> would be liable, if the
+King should die without Issue, thought it best to prevent so fatal an
+Accident, which it had not been possible for him to have done without
+marrying the King. The Infanta of <i>Spain</i> was a Child, and it would be at
+least eight Years before they could hope for any Issue from her; whereas
+by marrying the King to another speedily, there was a Chance of having a
+Dauphin very soon, who would secure the Tranquillity of the Kingdom. His
+most Serene Highness therefore propos’d this Affair to the Council, which
+at first he found
+very<!--214.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>
+much divided about it; for they were apprehensive
+of the Resentment of the King of <i>Spain</i>, and the Duke himself was
+heartily sorry, that he was under a Necessity of giving their Catholic
+Majesties just Cause of Disgust for the sake of the public Good: The
+Council being at last agreed, they pass’d a Resolution unanimously to send
+back the Infanta. This was accordingly notified to the Court of <i>Spain</i>,
+where News so unexpected was receiv’d with all the Indignation possible.
+The Infanta was sent back. The Duchess of <i>Tallard</i> had the Care of
+conducting her to the <i>Spanish</i> Frontier. All the Honours due to the
+Daughter of a great King were paid to this Princess, and every thing that
+could be thought of, was done to soften the Displeasure of their Catholic
+Majesties for her Return. All <i>France</i> murmur’d in secret at the Departure
+of this Princess; for she had won the Hearts of all who had seen her, by a
+Behaviour and a Genius so vastly above one of her Age, that they
+prognosticated she would one Day be a great Queen. Not long after she was
+sent away, the King was married to a Princess so happy in Childbearing,
+that Heaven thereby seems to applaud what the Duke has done, and the
+People, quite forgetting the Infanta, bless his Name.</p>
+
+<p>The King, after he had been married a few Months, thought it was not
+convenient for a Prince of the Blood to have the Direction of his Affairs;
+and therefore he displac’d the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i> from the Post of Prime
+Minister, and made the late Bishop of <i>Frejus</i>, now the Cardinal <i>de
+Fleury</i>, the sole Depositary of his Authority. The Duke receiv’d Orders to
+retire to <i>Chantilly</i>, a Seat he has near <i>Senlis</i>; and there his Friends
+put it into his Head to marry a second Wife: Several Princesses were
+propos’d to him, but he determin’d his Choice for <i>Eleonora</i> of
+<i>Hesse-Rhinfelds</i>, Sister of the
+Princess<!--215.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span>
+of <i>Piedmont</i>, now Queen of
+<i>Sardinia</i><a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>; and the Brother of this Princess, having a Proxy sent to
+him from the Duke, married her at <i>Rotenbourg</i>, in Presence of the Count
+<i>de Gasse</i>, whom the Duke had sent to assist in his Name at this Ceremony.
+The young Duchess no sooner arriv’d in <i>France</i>, but her Beauty, and the
+Charms both of her Person and Mind, made her admir’d by the whole Court,
+of which she is now one of the principal Ornaments: She is belov’d and
+respected by all Mankind, and every body pities her, that the Duke has not
+all that Tenderness for her which she deserves, and which it were to be
+wish’d he had for the Support of the <i>Conde</i> Family, of which the two only
+Princes remaining, <i>viz.</i> the Counts <i>de Charolois</i> and <i>Clermont</i>, are
+not married.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Charolois</i> is tall, handsome, and well-set: His Entrance
+upon the Stage of Action was much taken Notice of; for a Thirst after
+Glory was the Passion of his Soul, as soon as he came to the Years of
+Understanding. The War being kindled in <i>Hungary</i>, and Prince <i>Eugene</i> of
+<i>Savoy</i> having gain’d a Victory near <i>Temiswar</i>, which reviv’d that Hero’s
+Reputation in <i>France</i>, the Count <i>de Charolois</i> had a mind to learn the
+Art of War under so great a Master, and to make the Campaign which
+immediately follow’d that of <i>Temiswar</i>; but he did not dare to discover
+his Intention, and fearing that he should not obtain the Consent, either
+of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i> the Regent, the Duchess his Mother, or the Duke
+his Father, he resolv’d to set out privately, being sure that he should be
+applauded for his Undertaking, if he could be so happy as to put it in
+Execution. He imparted
+his<!--216.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span>
+Design in Confidence to M. <i>de Billy</i>, one of
+his Gentlemen, and to <i>Renault</i> his first <i>Valet de Chambre</i>, and with
+these two Attendants he set out from <i>Chantilly</i> on Pretence of Hunting.
+He travell’d five or six Post-Stages with the very Horses that belonged to
+the Duke his Father; after which he left them to the Care of the
+Post-master, and hir’d fresh Horses, with which he reach’d <i>Liege</i>; where
+he rested some Days, and having provided himself with Linen, went to the
+Court of the Elector of <i>Cologn</i>, whom he had known in <i>France</i>: His first
+Visit at <i>Bonn</i>, was at the House of M. <i>de S. Maurice</i>, the Elector’s
+Prime Minister; but he did not find him at home. M. <i>de Billy</i> thereupon
+desir’d to speak with his Lady, and told her, that a certain Punctilio of
+Honour had oblig’d him to come from <i>France</i> with the young Gentleman in
+his Company; but Madame <i>de S. Maurice</i>, not thinking he was a Prince of
+the Blood, and taking the Count <i>de Charolois</i> for some petty Officer,
+gave him a very cold Reception: However, she sent for her Husband, who was
+then attending the Elector’s Person; and when the Count <i>de S. Maurice</i>
+came, he presently knew the Count <i>de Charolois</i>, paid him all due
+Respects, and hasten’d to notify his Arrival to the Elector, who at first
+was concern’d to hear it, because his Electoral Highness knew not but he
+might disoblige the Court of <i>France</i> by receiving the Count, who he
+imagin’d had left the Kingdom upon some Disgust. Nevertheless, after
+reflecting with himself, that whatever the Count <i>de Charolois</i> might have
+done, the Court of <i>France</i> could not be angry with him for paying a
+Regard to his Quality as Prince of the Blood, he sent to invite him to his
+Palace. The Count went thither accordingly, by the Name of the Count <i>de
+Dammartin</i>, which he always travell’d With as long as he was absent from
+the
+Kingdom.<!--217.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span>
+The Elector receiv’d him With all the Marks of the highest
+Esteem, kept him several Days at his Court, and then furnish’d him with
+Money for his Journey to <i>Munich</i>; where he no sooner arriv’d, but he
+wrote to the Duke his Father to send him Remittances, and the necessary
+Equipages for the Campaign which he was then going to make.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ the Count <i>de Charolois</i> did not find the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i> at
+<i>Munich</i>, yet he was as well receiv’d as if he had been there; and the
+Electress, tho’ he had not been to see her, no sooner heard of his
+Arrival, but she order’d all due Honours to be paid to him. When the
+Elector return’d to <i>Munich</i>, he was overjoy’d to find this Prince there,
+and offer’d to make his Peace in <i>France</i>, in which he succeeded so far,
+as to get his Departure out of the Kingdom approv’d by the Duchess and the
+Regent. When the Count’s Domestics were arriv’d, he set out for <i>Hungary</i>,
+and pass’d through <i>Vienna</i> without saluting the Emperor, or the Empress
+Dowager his Cousin German. The Empress Was so offended at it, that she
+wrote to her Aunt, who was the Prince’s Grandmother, and signified to that
+Princess, that she did not think it handsome for a Prince of such Descent
+as the Count <i>de Charolois</i>, to pass through <i>Vienna</i> to serve in the
+Imperial Army, without having seen the Emperor. The Count’s Relations did
+not fail to reproach him for his Want of Respect to their Imperial
+Majesties. He excus’d himself, by saying that he did not know what
+Treatment he ought to expect; but the Answer he receiv’d, was an Order
+from the Regent in the King’s Name, to wait on their Imperial Majesties as
+he return’d from the Campaign.</p>
+
+<p>He signaliz’d himself in it very much, but with so little Care of his
+Person, that Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i> often reproach’d him for it: He
+took a Pleasure to go up to the very Breast-work of
+the<!--218.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>
+Trenches; and
+from thence with Screw-Guns he fir’d at the <i>Turks</i>, as if he had been
+shooting at small Birds: On the other hand the <i>Turks</i> did not spare him,
+but sent their Balls whizzing about his Ears in Return for his Frolic. The
+Count was present at the Battle of <i>Belgrade</i>, and saw that Place taken:
+He afterwards went to <i>Vienna</i>, and staid there some Weeks, where he had
+an Audience of the Emperor, not <i>incognito</i>, but as the Count <i>de
+Charolois</i>. The Emperor receiv’d him at the <i>Favourita</i> standing: His
+Audience was attended with this odd Circumstance. The Count, being not
+acquainted with the Ceremonial, did not know that he should find the
+Emperor all alone; and therefore, when he enter’d the Closet, and saw a
+Man in a very plain Dress leaning with his Back against a Table, he took
+him for some private Gentleman; but in a few Moments he spy’d the Golden
+Fleece: He was doubtful in his Mind, after all, whether ’twas the Emperor;
+but he advanc’d, saying within himself, that in either case there was not
+much Harm in being mistaken. The Emperor receiv’d him with very great
+Marks of Distinction, and the Count kiss’d his Hand, because he had been
+told it was the Custom, and that all the Princes of the Empire did the
+same. He afterwards went to the Apartment of the Empresses, and had
+reason, where-ever he came, to be satisfied with his Reception.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Vienna</i> he return’d to <i>Munich</i>, after which he made the Tour of
+<i>Italy</i>, and lodg’d at <i>Rome</i> at the House of the Cardinal <i>de
+Tremouille</i>, who had then the Care of the Affairs of <i>France</i>. After
+having repass’d the Mountains, he came back to <i>Munich</i>, where he stay’d a
+Year and an half, being always lodg’d and defray’d, together with his
+Retinue, at the Expence of his Electoral Highness, who kept a Table for
+him for twelve Guests, besides Hunting-Equipage, and Horses at his
+Command.</p>
+
+<!--219.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Hunting is this Prince’s chief Amusement since he return’d to <i>France</i>: He
+appears seldom at Court, and neither meddles nor makes with Affairs of
+State. They talk often of getting him a Wife; but he does not seem to have
+any more Goût for the Sacrament of Marriage, than his younger Brother the
+Count <i>de Clermont</i>, a young Prince of a lovely Person, a sweet Nature,
+and who seems to have a way of Thinking becoming his Birth. They who
+approach him, and know him intimately, have assur’d me, that he has all
+the Qualities that can be to form hereafter a great Prince. It seems as if
+he were design’d for the Church, since his most Serene Highness actually
+enjoys several considerable Abbeys; but hitherto this Prince dresses in
+the Lay Habit, and performs no Spiritual Function. While I was speaking of
+the Count <i>de Charolois</i>, I forgot so tell you, that he is Governor of <i>la
+Touraine</i>, in which Honour he succeeded the late M. <i>Dangeau</i>, first
+Gentleman-Usher to the late Duchess of <i>Burgundy</i>. In his time <i>la
+Touraine</i> was not reckon’d among the great Governments; but as the Regent
+was willing to give one to the Count <i>de Charolois</i>, after having granted
+away the Reversions of all the great Governments, he thought of no other
+Expedient, than to put <i>la Touraine</i> in the Rank of the other Provinces.</p>
+
+<p>The three Princes that I have just mention’d, are the Sons of Madame the
+Duchess (of <i>Bourbon</i>) the legitimated Daughter of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. and Madame
+<i>de Montespan</i>; She is a Princess who has been cry’d-up in <i>Europe</i> for
+her Wit, Beauty, and the Charms of her Person. Tho’ she is the Mother of a
+numerous Family, she may still be reckoned among the Beauties of the
+Court; and ’tis certain, that when the Duchess is with the Princesses her
+Daughters, she seems rather to be their Sister than the Mother. This
+Princess is immensely rich, those who
+manage<!--220.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>
+her Affairs having acquir’d
+a vast Estate in the contagious Actions of the <i>Missisippi</i>. She lives
+with very great Magnificence, and has lately caus’d a Palace to be built,
+which may be rank’d with the finest Structures in <i>Europe</i>. Her most
+Serene Highness is often at <i>Chantilly</i> with the Duke her Husband, but the
+rest of her Time she divides betwixt the Court and City.</p>
+
+<p>The Princess of <i>Conti</i> the second Dowager, the Princesses of <i>Charolois</i>,
+<i>Clermont</i> and <i>Sens</i>, are her Daughters, and form one of the most
+beautiful Families that ever was. ’Tis pity that Princesses so beautiful
+and accomplish’d are not well match’d, but their Greatness is a Bar to
+their Settlement in Marriage; besides, this Century has been more prolific
+every-where in Princesses than in Princes. The Princess of <i>Conti</i>, who
+has some Thoughts of a Wife for the Prince her Son, has just bought the
+fine House which was built by the Count <i>de Belle-Isle</i>, out of the vast
+Sums which he got by <i>Missisippi</i> Stock; there she proposes to end her
+Days, and she already appears but seldom at Court, which indeed the
+Trouble of Dressing hinders a great many Princesses and Ladies from
+frequenting. The Princess of <i>Conti</i> was very young when she married, and
+has had two Sons; but there’s only one of them living, whom in his
+Father’s Life-time was styl’d the Count <i>d’Alais</i>, and is now the Prince
+of <i>Conti</i><a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>As for Mademoiselle <i>de Charolois</i>, all the Charms imaginable are united
+in her Person: She has a noble Aspect, a very lively sparkling Wit, and of
+all the Duchess’s Daughters she is the most like her Mother, and has the
+most sprightly Ideas. During the Regency of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, when
+Money was become extraordinary scarce, Mademoiselle <i>de Charolois</i>
+appear’d at the Royal
+Palace<!--221.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span>
+with two <i>Lewis d’Ors</i> in her Ears for
+Pendants; upon which the Duke of <i>Orleans</i> asking her the Meaning of that
+new Fashion, she made him Answer, that she found <i>Lewis d’Ors</i> scarcer
+than Diamonds, and that therefore she wore them as such. Mademoiselle <i>de
+Charolois</i> lives in the little Hôtel <i>de Bourbon</i>, which formerly belong’d
+to <i>Anne</i> of <i>Bavaria</i> the Palatine, the Widow of <i>Henry Julius</i> of
+<i>Bourbon</i>, Prince of <i>Conde</i>, Grandmother to the Princes and Princesses of
+the <i>Conde</i> Family. This Princess has a Family here independent on Madame
+the Duchess (of <i>Bourbon</i>); but she generally follows the Court, and as
+she is very fond of Hunting, and rides well, she makes one at all the
+King’s Matches.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle <i>de Clermont</i> is not only very beautiful, but has an Air of
+Quality, good Nature and Modesty, which distinguishes her from all the
+Grandees of the Court. Calumny, which does not always favour the Royal
+Blood here, could never shed its Venom upon this Princess, and the whole
+Court ever admir’d her for her Sobriety and Virtue. She is Superintendante
+of the Queen’s Houshold, and went in this Quality with the Ladies of
+Honour to meet her Majesty at <i>Strasbourg</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle <i>de Sens</i>, with her Beauty, is both graceful and modest: She
+was brought up under her Grandmother the Princess; and after her Decease,
+the Duchess of <i>Brunswic</i>, her Great Aunt, Mother to the Empress <i>Amelia</i>,
+who spent her latter Years in <i>France</i>, had the Care of her Education, and
+form’d her one of the most amiable Princesses upon the Earth.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Conti</i> Family, which is the third Branch of the Princes of the Blood,
+consists at this time of two Dowager Ladies, a young Prince, and a
+Princess, call’d Mademoiselle <i>de la Roche-sur-yon</i>. The Princess of
+<i>Conti</i>, the first Dowager Lady, is
+the<!--222.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span>
+legitimated Daughter of King
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV. by Mademoiselle <i>de la Valiere</i>: This Princess is celebrated
+for her Beauty, Wit, and noble Air, which she still retains: She happen’d
+to be a Widow when she was very young. Some say that the King of <i>Morocco</i>
+demanded her in Marriage, but I have been assur’d by many People, that
+’tis a mere Fiction. Be this as it will, such a Match was not practicable;
+for tho’ Religion had been altogether out of the Question, King <i>Lewis</i>
+XIV. would never have sacrific’d a Daughter so dear to him, and one who
+was the Ornament of his Court, to a <i>Marabou</i><a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>.
+The<!--223.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>
+Princess of
+<i>Conti</i>, since the Death of her Brother the Dauphin, has not appear’d in
+public, and only visits the King and Queen privately in their Majesties
+Closet. Her Occupations are Works of Piety and Charity, and her Life is an
+Example of Virtue: She commonly resides in her Hôtel at <i>Paris</i>, which is
+beautiful and magnificent, and formerly belong’d to the Marshal-Duke <i>de
+Lorges</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The legitimated Princes, Sons of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. are the Duke <i>de Maine</i>, and
+the Count <i>de Tholouse</i>. The former is Grand Master of the Ordnance,
+Colonel-General of the <i>Swiss</i> and <i>Grisons</i>, and Governor of <i>Guienne</i>:
+He married <i>Louisa-Benedictina</i> of <i>Bourbon-Condé</i>, by whom he has two
+Sons and a Daughter. The Duke <i>de Maine</i> possesses the Sovereignty of
+<i>Dombes</i>, which the late Mademoiselle, Daughter of <i>Gaston</i> of <i>France</i>,
+Son of <i>Henry</i> IV. left him by Will. This Prince signaliz’d his Valour in
+his Youth: He has the Misfortune to halt, but he has a superior Genius,
+<!--224.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span>and
+is a Man of true Christian Piety. The late King distinguish’d him
+above all his Children, of which he gave an illustrious Proof, when he
+appointed him Superintendant of the Education of <i>Lewis</i> XV. and when he
+made him a Sharer in the Authority of the Regency, together with the Duke
+of <i>Orleans</i>, whom he would have been glad to have intirely excluded from
+it, if his Royal Highness’s Birth had not given him an absolute Title to
+it. Some Years before this, the said King, by a Declaration the most
+solemnly register’d that ever any was, had recognis’d the Ability of the
+Duke <i>de Maine</i>, the Count <i>de Tholouse</i>, and their Posterity, to succeed
+to the Crown on Failure of Issue by the lawful Princes. The Princes of the
+Blood, in Complaisance to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. before whom every Knee was bow’d,
+did not oppose a Declaration so little for their Honour: But in the
+Beginning of <i>Lewis</i> XVth’s Reign they commenced a Suit upon it against
+the legitimated Princes. The Arret which call’d them to the Succession of
+the Crown was revok’d, and the Count <i>de Tholouse</i> was the only one that
+retain’d for his Life the Honours that were annex’d to the Dignity of
+Prince of the Blood. The Duke <i>de Maine</i> and his Children were depriv’d of
+these great Prerogatives, and reduc’d to the Rank of their Peerage. Some
+Years after, however, it pleas’d the King to restore those Honours to the
+Duke <i>de Maine</i>, and to his Sons the Prince of <i>Dombes</i>, and the Count
+<i>d’Eu</i>; but these Princes continue excluded from the Crown.</p>
+
+<p>I have already acquainted you how the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i> depriv’d the Duke
+<i>de Maine</i> of the Superintendance of <i>Lewis</i> XVth’s Education: But that
+was not the only Circumstance that mortified him; for at that Juncture the
+Point that seem’d to be solely in View, was to undo every thing that had
+<!--225.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span>been
+done by <i>Lewis</i> XIV. And the Duke, together with his Employments and
+Honours, also lost his Liberty. He was accus’d of holding a Correspondence
+with the Prince <i>de Cellamare</i>, the <i>Spanish</i> Ambassador, who endeavour’d
+to excite the <i>French</i> to a Rebellion against the Regent, by promising
+them Assistance from the King his Master: Hereupon the Duke <i>de Maine</i> was
+arrested, and committed Prisoner to <i>Dourlens</i> in <i>Picardy</i>, where he was
+closely confin’d. They who are not the most zealous of this Prince’s
+Friends, agree that he supported this Reverse of Fortune with an heroic
+Constancy. I heard it said by the People who were set to watch him, that
+they never saw him once deviate from that Serenity of Mind, and that good
+Nature which accompany all his Actions. But the Duchess of <i>Maine</i> did not
+receive the News of his Disgrace with the same Tranquillity; for being
+born with all the high Spirit of the Great <i>Conde</i> her Grandfather, she
+rav’d against the Regent, but especially against her Nephew the Duke, whom
+she look’d upon as the Author of her Misfortunes. They say moreover, that
+the Duke <i>de Maine</i> himself was rattled by her before he was confin’d.
+’Twas on the Day that <i>Lewis</i> XV. came to the Parlement to hold his first
+Bed of Justice, when the Duke <i>de Maine</i> was turn’d out of that Share
+which the late King’s last Will gave him in the Regency. As this Duke came
+home from the Parlement, he found his Wife in the utmost Impatience to
+know what had been done; of which when he had given her an exact Account,
+the Duchess could not bridle her Passion, but looking on her Husband with
+Indignation, she said, <i>I have nothing left then to possess, but the Shame
+of having married you!</i> When she received Orders to quit to the Duke of
+<i>Bourbon</i> that Apartment which she had in the <i>Thuilleries</i>, while the
+<!--226.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span>Duke
+<i>de Maine</i> was Superintendant of the King’s Education; <i>Yes</i>, said
+she, <i>I will quit it with a Vengeance</i>, and at the same time order’d it to
+be stripp’d quite bare of Furniture; and for the more Haste she dash’d the
+Looking-glasses, China, and all Goods of that Sort in Pieces.
+Nevertheless, when she was apprehended, and during the Time that she was
+detain’d, she was not heard to utter a Complaint or a Murmur; but
+supported her Disgrace with that Magnanimity for which she is admir’d, a
+Quality which elevates her so far above other Women, and sets her on a Par
+with the greatest Men.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke and Duchess of <i>Maine</i> are often at <i>Seaux</i>, a fine House but a
+little Distance from <i>Paris</i>, on the high Road to <i>Orleans</i>, built by
+<i>John Baptist Colbert</i>. Here they have always a gay Court. This Duchess is
+so much in Love with the Arts and Sciences, that all Men of Letters look
+on her as their Patroness; and there are few Poetical Compositions which
+are not first presented to her. The last Time I paid my Court to her, the
+following Piece, compos’d of no more than two Rhymes, was read there, and
+so highly applauded, that I herewith send you a Copy of it<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>.</p>
+
+<!--227.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Prince of <i>Dombes</i>, the Duke of <i>Maine’s</i> eldest Son, is a tall
+handsome well set
+Gentleman,<!--228.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span>
+and has the Reversion of his Father’s
+Offices. Whether the Count <i>d’Eu</i> has any Employments, I know not. Both
+these Princes are commonly at Court. Mademoiselle <i>du Maine</i> is a very
+amiable Princess, whose Education has been fully answerable to her Birth,
+and who, by her Manners and Politeness, approves herself the worthy
+Daughter of her Mother.</p>
+
+<!--229.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Tholouse</i>, great Admiral of <i>France</i>, is the second Son of
+King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. by Madame <i>de Montespan</i>. In the last War he commanded
+the Naval Army of <i>France</i>. He is one of the handsomest and comeliest
+Lords at Court. He is noble and magnificent in every thing that he does,
+and they say, he is generous. He is very polite, and has always been as
+much esteem’d for his Merit, as for his Rank of a legitimated Prince,
+which he has preserved, tho’ his Brother was divested of it. It was
+believed for a long time, that this Prince would not marry, and that his
+great Estate would fall to the Children of the Duke <i>de Maine</i>; but he
+married some Years ago, <i>Maria Victoria</i> of <i>Noailles</i>, Widow of the
+Marquis <i>de Gondrin</i>, Son to the Duke <i>d’Antin</i>, by whom he had a Son, who
+is now the Duke <i>d’Epernon</i>. The Count <i>de Tholouse</i> has had a Son by her
+also, who is called the Duke<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a><i>de Ponthievre</i>; by which Title, the Count
+has the Rank of a Peer in Parliament. This Prince, since his Marriage, has
+commonly resided at <i>Rambouillet</i>, where the King frequently makes Parties
+for Hunting. His Majesty shews a very great Regard for the Countess of
+<i>Tholouse</i>, which gives her Authority to talk to his Majesty with a great
+deal of Freedom. The <i>French</i> say, she was the Occasion of the Duke of
+<i>Bourbon</i>’s being put out of the Ministry. ’Tis certain, however, that the
+King was at <i>Rambouillet</i>, when the Duke <i>de Charost</i> went and told the
+Duke, That it was his Majesty’s Pleasure, that he should quit the Station
+of Prime Minister. The Duke being at <i>Versailles</i> when he
+receiv’d<!--230.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>
+the
+unwelcome News, they say, he desired to speak with the King and Queen; but
+that the Duke <i>de Charost</i> told him, he had Orders for his Removal to
+<i>Chantilly</i>. His most Serene Highness obey’d, and did not appear to be
+afflicted for the Loss of his Authority, so much as for the falling-off of
+his Friends and Creatures. The Marchioness <i>de Prie</i>, Lady of the
+Bed-chamber to the Queen, whom he honoured with a very singular Esteem,
+received Orders to leave the Court, and to retire to <i>Normandy</i>; where,
+during her being in Favour, she had purchased a considerable Estate. The
+Brothers of the Name of <i>Paris</i>, those Objects of the Public Odium, were
+divested of their Authority. M. <i>de Blanc</i> came again into the Ministry:
+M. <i>de Belle-Isle</i> regain’d his Liberty, and obtained the Command of the
+Troops of the Government of <i>Metz</i>, and the three Bishopricks. The
+Marchioness <i>de Prie</i> had the Mortification to see her Employment of Lady
+of the Bed-chamber fill’d up by the Daughter of M. <i>le Blanc</i>, to whom she
+was a declared Enemy, and whom she had endeavoured to ruin. This Lady was
+not able to support herself long under her Disgrace; for having been used
+to bear a Sway, she could not reconcile herself to Retirement; but
+languished for a while, and at length died of a Colic, which gave her
+horrid Pains. She was not much regretted, because she had made few
+Friends; Ambition and Self-Interest had taken intire hold of her. She
+thought her Disgrace unsufferable, and the little Reflection she made upon
+the Revolution of Fortune, rendered hers but the more intolerable. I will
+hereafter give you an Account of the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>, and of the
+Persons now of the First Rank at Court; but at present my Pen is ready to
+drop out of my Fingers; for ’tis One o’Clock in the Morning, and if I
+write any
+more,<!--231.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>
+I shall but give you my Dreams. Therefore I am, with all
+the Esteem, possible, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLI.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Versailles, May 1, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In my last Letter I mention’d the Princes and Princesses of the Blood
+Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this
+Court, who are in the most exalted Stations.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>, by his Dignity of Cardinal, and much more by his
+Character, as the Depositary of the Royal Authority, has the first Rank in
+the State next to the Princes of the Blood. This Prelate, tho’ far
+advanced in Years, is brisk and lively to Admiration. His Stature is
+somewhat above the middle Size; he has a happy Physiognomy, to which
+Fortune has not given the Lye; and he is humble, good-natur’d and civil.
+You know that he was Bishop of <i>Frejus</i>. He resign’d that See to excuse
+himself from the Pastoral Charge of Souls, when the late King <i>Lewis</i> XIV.
+nominated him, by his Last Will, Preceptor to the young <i>Dauphin</i>, now
+King <i>Lewis</i> XV. This was almost the only Article of <i>Lewis</i> the Grand’s
+Will, which the Regent put in Execution. M. <i>de Frejus</i> won the Heart of
+the young Monarch to such a Degree, that the Prince was intirely wrapp’d
+up in him; and his Affection for him has increas’d so much ever since,
+that now it may be
+literally<!--232.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span>
+said, that the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i> is the
+Depositary, or Trustee, of the Royal Authority. The Regent, a Prince of
+Penetration, if ever there was one, quickly perceived what an Ascendant M.
+<i>de Frejus</i> had over the young Monarch; and being apprehensive of what
+might be the Consequences of it, he was continually contriving how to
+remove the Prelate from Court. With this View he offered him the
+Archbishoprick of <i>Rheims</i>, which was vacant by the Death of the Cardinal
+<i>de Mailly</i>; but M. <i>de Fleury</i>, who resigned the Bishoprick of <i>Frejus</i>,
+that he might not have the Charge of Souls, was so far from accepting one
+of the greatest Archbishopricks in the Kingdom, that he absolutely refused
+it. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, who was intent upon carrying his Point, offered
+to make him a Cardinal; for he hoped, that the Pope’s ill State of Health
+would quickly bring on a Conclave; and that then M. <i>de Frejus</i> would be
+obliged to go to <i>Rome</i>, where he thought he shou’d be able to continue
+him, on Pretence of managing the King’s Affairs there; and that then the
+young Monarch’s Fondness to see his Favourite would by that Means
+insensibly be weaned. But M. <i>de Frejus</i> saw the Hook that was hid under
+this Bait. The red Hat did not dazzle his Eyes; and he knew moreover, that
+if he kept close to the King’s Person, he could be sure of a Hat whenever
+he pleased. However, he thank’d the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, and told him, he
+had no such ambitious Views, and that he preferred his Station in the
+King’s Council, before all the Dignities, to which, in his Goodness, he
+had Thoughts of promoting him. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, however chagrin’d at
+the Prelate’s Moderation, was forc’d to keep it to himself; he was afraid
+to make use of his Authority; for it was not long before this, that he
+banish’d the Marshal <i>de Villeroy</i> to
+<i>Lyons</i>,<!--233.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span>
+at which the People
+grumbled; and to put away the Preceptor too, would have rais’d a Clamour
+against him, throughout the whole Kingdom. M. <i>de Frejus</i> continued at
+Court as a Member of the Privy Council, and there was not a Courtier who
+gave more constant Attendance; and in this Station he supported the
+Ministry of the Cardinal <i>du Bois</i>, the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, and the Duke of
+<i>Bourbon</i>; but he confin’d himself all the while within the Bounds of his
+Office. At the King’s Marriage, he accepted of that of Great Almoner to
+the Queen, and by that Means his Attachment to the Court became more
+strict. When the Duke <i>de Bourbon</i> was disgrac’d, the King offered the
+Place of Prime Minister to M. <i>de Frejus</i>, who, indeed, accepted of that
+eminent Post; but ’twas on Condition, that he should not be compelled to
+take the Title, and that he might always lay an Account of every Thing
+before the King.</p>
+
+<p>The Bishop of <i>Frejus</i> being thus become Master of the Government, it was
+but reasonable that he should be adorned with the Purple, to give the more
+Lustre to his Character. Mean time <i>France</i>, had no Hat to demand, for the
+Number of her Cardinals was completed. The Emperor having a Pretension at
+that Time to a Hat, the King desired him to yield it to him for his First
+Minister; and the Emperor, overjoy’d that he could oblige the King, and
+that he could make the Minister some sort of Amends for his pacific
+Sentiments, gave him his Nomination accordingly. Pope <i>Benedict</i> XIII.
+sent the Cap to the Bishop, who then assumed the Title of Cardinal <i>de
+Fleury</i>; and with this Title he now governs the State, not with the
+general Applause of the <i>French</i>, because the Thing is impossible; but at
+least, with the Approbation of his King, of Foreigners, and
+indeed,<!--234.png--><span class="pagenum">231</span>
+of
+every Man in the Kingdom, who is thoroughly inform’d of the State of
+<i>France</i> in particular, and of <i>Europe</i> in general. Yet those who have the
+least Affection for the Cardinal, must acknowledge his Disinterestedness
+and Integrity; for the worst Enemy he has, cannot accuse him of amassing
+Riches, or of coveting to aggrandize his Family; in which respect he is,
+perhaps, negligent to a Fault, his Kindred having the Character of Persons
+of Worth.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal’s Expences are as much circumscrib’d as his Dignity will
+admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no
+doubt, ’tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so
+vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to
+Business, And I don’t think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in
+his Diversions.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>French</i> (I speak of those who hope to make their Fortune by the
+Sword) find fault with his Temper as too pacific. <i>We are despis’d</i>, (say
+they) <i>our Neighbours make Treaties and Alliances without us, and <span class="f">France</span>
+is no longer what she was in the Time of <span class="f">Lewis</span> XIV.</i></p>
+
+<p>I am not here proposing to make a Panegyric on the Cardinal, but I cannot
+help letting you see how weakly those People talk, who censure his Conduct
+as to Foreign Affairs. I don’t pretend to enter into the Domestic Affairs
+of the Kingdom, tho’ I am very well persuaded, that the Cardinal’s
+Integrity, and his Zeal for the King, incline him to act to the best of
+his Power. I will only leave you to judge if his Inclination to Peace is
+blameable. When he came into the Ministry, he found the King’s Coffers
+exhausted, and the Kingdom in a Condition, which requir’d Rest rather than
+a War, the Event of which is always uncertain. But after all, Who is there
+to go
+to<!--235.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>
+War with? What shall be the Pretence? Who is it that insults
+<i>France</i>? Or, Who desires any thing more of her than her Friendship? Have
+not the Treaties of <i>Utrecht</i>, and <i>Baden</i>, and all the Treaties made
+since, during the Regency of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, settled the Interests
+of <i>Europe</i>? Did not <i>England</i> earnestly court the Alliance of <i>France</i>?
+Has the Emperor seem’d less desirous of it? Nay, Did not <i>Spain</i> itself,
+forgetting the sending back of the <i>Infanta</i>, enter into her former
+Engagements with this Crown, as soon as the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i> was
+vested with the Ministry? In what respect then, can the <i>French</i> think
+themselves despis’d by their Neighbours? I will take upon me to prove, on
+the contrary, that <i>Lewis</i> XV. during the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>’s Ministry,
+instead of being neglected, has been as much courted by the Foreign
+Powers, as <i>Lewis</i> XIV. was in all that Glory which procured him the Title
+of <i>Louis le Grand</i>. When the Clamour was for abolishing the <i>Ostend</i>
+Company, How did <i>England</i> and <i>Holland</i> bestir themselves to make the
+King a Party in their Quarrel? What did not the Emperor do to engage him
+in his Interest? Every thing was uncertain, as long as <i>France</i> remained
+undetermined. The <i>English</i> and the <i>Dutch</i> prepared to attack the
+Emperor, and the latter made ready for his Defence. The Cardinal having
+got the King to declare for the Maritime Powers, the Emperor abolish’d the
+<i>Ostend</i> Company immediately. What more could have been obtained by a War?</p>
+
+<p>When the Talk was, of introducing the Infante <i>Don Carlos</i> into <i>Italy</i>,
+what Measures, what Solicitations were not employ’d by the Powers
+concerned, either to bring over <i>Lewis</i> XV. to their Party, or to oblige
+him to a Neutrality? Count <i>Sinzendorff’s</i> coming from <i>Vienna</i> to
+<i>Versailles</i>, on purpose to treat for the Tranquillity of <i>Italy</i>, seems
+<!--236.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span>to
+me a Proof, that the Emperor does not neglect <i>France</i> to such a
+Degree as the Uneasy and Disaffected would fain have it believed. In good
+Truth, if <i>France</i> had not threatened to attack the Emperor, in case he
+did not consent to the Introduction of the <i>Infante</i> into <i>Tuscany</i>, would
+his Imperial Majesty have been influenced by the bare Menaces of <i>Spain</i>?
+That Monarch is too well established in <i>Italy</i>, to fear any thing from
+that Crown; and if Equity and Justice did not always accompany his
+Actions, it would have been easy for him to have taken Possession of
+<i>Tuscany</i>; and the <i>Spaniards</i>, who have never been able to retake
+<i>Gibraltar</i>, and who, perhaps, would never have reduced <i>Barcelona</i>
+without the Assistance of the <i>French</i>, would have found it a very
+difficult Matter to have turned them out of it. The Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>
+having persuaded the King to declare in Favour of the <i>Infante</i>, he
+threatens to join the <i>English</i> and <i>Spaniards</i>; and the Emperor seeing
+all <i>Europe</i> against him, but especially <i>France</i>, which is capable of
+striking the hardest Blows, yields to the Times, and grants every thing
+that is desired of him. Can there be any thing more to the Honour of the
+Cardinal? And, Why should a War be undertaken, if Menaces alone are
+sufficient to obtain what is desired?</p>
+
+<p>But, say the Disaffected, we purchase Peace of all the World by our Money.
+The Cardinal is not chargeable with lavishing the King’s Money. I know not
+that he gives away any, unless it be the Subsidies granted to the Crowns
+of <i>Denmark</i> and <i>Sweden</i>. If that be purchasing a Peace, <i>Lewis</i> XIV. and
+the Regent after him, were much more lavish of the Royal Treasure, and
+perhaps with less Profit; and it would be easy to demonstrate, that in
+order to dislodge the <i>Spaniards</i> from <i>Sicily</i>, the Regent sent more
+Money into <i>Germany</i>
+and<!--237.png--><span class="pagenum">234</span>
+<i>England</i>, in one Month, than the Cardinal gives
+away in a Year to the Northern Crowns; tho’ one of ’em has for Time out of
+Mind been used to draw Subsidies from <i>France</i>. Yet all this while, the
+Regent was not accused of purchasing a Peace of his Neighbours; because,
+in order to make it necessary to buy a Peace, some Prince or other must
+have threatened him with a War. But ’tis certain, that no Power did then,
+or does now, think of attacking <i>France</i>. Let her continue peaceable, and
+there we will leave her.</p>
+
+<p>But on the other hand, tho’ it were not justifiable for the Cardinal to
+entertain pacific Sentiments, and tho’ he were to indulge the Passion of
+the <i>French</i>, I would fain know of those who are so hot for a War, Whether
+they are well assured it would have a happy Issue? And, Whether, when a
+War is once begun, it would be in their Power to put an End to it,
+whenever they thought it consistent with their Affairs? Nay, I will
+suppose that every thing should happen as they would wish, and that the
+War should prove a fortunate one; What Acquisition can <i>France</i> make,
+which would not be more to her Expence than her Advantage? For the farther
+she extends her Conquests, the more Enemies she will have of Course, and
+the more Troops she will be oblig’d to maintain. The Frontiers of the
+Kingdom are secured. Are a few more Towns, nay, an intire Province, a
+sufficient Temptation for a King of <i>France</i>? And are they an Equivalent
+for the Blood and Treasure that must be expended to acquire them? No,
+surely, the Cardinal is perfectly in the right, and I must beg the
+<i>Frenchmen’s</i> Pardon, when I tell ’em, they know not what they would be
+at. How desirous were they of the late Peace? And they have scarce tasted
+the Fruits of it, but they now want a War. If the Cardinal should enter
+into a
+War,<!--238.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span>
+and the Consequences of it should prove fatal, Would they not
+throw the Blame upon him? They would say for the Purpose, that it was
+inconsistent with a Priest to make War. For my Part, I think the Cardinal
+<i>de Fleury</i> has substantial Reasons for doing what he does. The <i>French</i>
+have been so long accustomed to the turbulent Reign of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. which
+was interspersed throughout with great Events, that they know not how to
+reconcile themselves to one that is more placid and calm; but ’tis to be
+hoped, they will ere long. Whatever they do, the Cardinal seems to be very
+easy, let them say what they will of him. As he knows that he has nothing
+to reproach himself with, and that he has always preferred the Good of the
+Public to his own private Interest, he is afraid of no Revolution in his
+Fortune. He is sensible that Innocence always holds up its Head, and that
+real Merit is above the Reach of Envy and Malice.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>Daguesseau</i> the Chancellor of <i>France</i>, is the Chief Magistrate of the
+Kingdom, and his Office is attended with such great Prerogatives, that the
+King cannot take it from him. The Person whom he succeeded in this eminent
+Dignity, was M. <i>Voisin</i>, who being Secretary of War, was made Chancellor
+by <i>Lewis</i> XIV. upon M. <i>de Pontchartrain</i>’s resigning that Post, to
+devote the Residue of his Life to God in Retirement. M. <i>Voisin</i> dying
+suddenly in the Beginning of the Duke of <i>Orlean</i>’s Regency, M.
+<i>Daguesseau</i>, then Attorney-General, was, by his Royal Highness, appointed
+Chancellor in his Room. All <i>France</i> applauded this Choice. Every body was
+so satisfied of this Magistrate’s Candour and Integrity, that nobody
+doubted he would assert Justice and Equity; and in short, he perfectly
+answered the Expectations of the Public. But as true
+Merit,<!--239.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span>
+is always the
+most envied, a Cabal was soon formed against his Integrity. M.
+<i>Daguesseau</i> refused to put the Seal to certain Edicts, which he thought
+contrary to the Welfare of the Government; at which the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>
+was so incensed, that he banished the Chancellor to <i>Frene</i>, a fine Seat
+belonging to that Minister near <i>Meaux</i>; and the Seals were given to M.
+<i>d’Argenson</i>, Lieutenant of the Police, with the Title of Keeper of the
+Seals, which was formerly no more than a bare Commission; but the Regent
+was then for erecting it into an Office. The Parliament of <i>Paris</i>
+exclaimed very much against this Innovation, but the Regent, after all,
+was obey’d. Upon the Death of M. <i>d’Argenson</i>, the Chancellor was
+recall’d, and the Seals restor’d to<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>him; but he held them not long; for
+the Regent, who was resolved to have no Ministers but such as knew how to
+obey, disgraced the Chancellor a second time for opposing his Will, and
+gave the Seals to M. <i>d’Armenonville</i>. The latter dying during the
+Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>’s Ministry, the Seals were given to M. <i>de
+Chauvelin</i>, who, besides the Title of Keeper of the Seals, has also the
+Office of Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The
+Chancellor, who has been recalled for some time, assists at the Council;
+but his Office has been depriv’d of its greatest Lustre, since the Seals
+have been separated from it.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>Chauvelin</i>, Keeper of the Seals, Minister and Secretary of<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>State
+for Foreign Affairs,
+owes<!--240.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span>
+his Advancement to the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>,
+who seems to confide in him intirely. This Minister is reckon’d very
+laborious, good-natur’d and civil. The Foreign Ministers are so taken with
+him, that they think no more of Messieurs <i>de Torcy</i> and <i>de Morville</i>.
+The former was of the <i>Colbert</i> Family, Secretary of Foreign Affairs under
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV. a Man, as one may say, born for the Ministry, and whose great
+and good Services have been very much cry’d-up, but more rewarded by the
+Applauses of <i>Europe</i>, than by Favours from the Court. The other was the
+Son of the late Keeper of the Seals, <i>d’Armenonville</i>, and had acquir’d a
+great Reputation in his Embassies to <i>Holland</i>, and the Congress of
+<i>Cambray</i>, when he desired Leave to<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> retire, and was succeeded by M.
+<i>Chauvelin</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Maurepas</i> is Grandson to the Chancellor <i>de Pontchartrain</i>,
+and Son to the Count <i>de Pontchartrain</i>, Secretary for the Maritime
+Affairs in the Reign of King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. He enter’d very young into the
+Ministry, and has so behav’d as to gain Friends and Dependants. I have not
+heard one Man give him an ill Word, while every body speaks well of him;
+but as for his Secretaries, or chief Clerks, the Seafaring People often
+exclaim against the Airs of Importance which some of those Scribes put on,
+who watch all Opportunities to impose on the Honesty of the Minister, in
+Favour of their Creatures, to the Prejudice of other Subjects, who have
+more Merit.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de S. Florentin</i> is of the Family of <i>Phelypeaux</i>, as is also
+the Count <i>de Maurepas</i>, who married his Sister. He is the Son of M. <i>de
+la Vrilliere</i>, Secretary of State; and had
+the<!--241.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span>
+Reversion of his Father’s
+Office granted him by the Regent, when he was scarce twenty Years of Age.
+M. <i>de la Vrilliere</i> dying not long before the King’s Marriage, M. <i>de S.
+Florentin</i> entered on his Office. He has that Province which relates to
+Affairs Ecclesiastical. He married, some Years ago, the Daughter of the
+late Count <i>de Platen</i>, Great Chamberlain, and Hereditary Post-Master of
+<i>Hanover</i>; but neither of ’em knew one another before the Match was made.
+Mademoiselle <i>de Platen</i> was a <i>Lutheran</i>, but is turn’d <i>Catholic</i>. The
+Lady, her Mother, for Whom I had as profound a Veneration as for any Woman
+in the World, and whose Memory I still revere, brought her into <i>France</i>.
+M. <i>de S. Florentin</i> has Reason to be pleas’d with the Choice he has made:
+For his Lady is not only very charming, but has noble Sentiments, and a
+Virtue which Calumny itself durst not asperse. When she married M. <i>de S.
+Florentin</i>, King <i>George</i> I. of <i>Great Britain</i> settled a Pension upon her
+of forty thousand Livres, for forty-five Years; and King <i>George</i> II. on
+his Accession to the Crown, was pleased to confirm the said Pension, upon
+that Lady’s going to <i>London</i> to solicit it, in Company with her
+Mother-in-law Madame <i>de la Vrilliere</i>, now Duchess of <i>Mazarine</i>.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>d’Angervilliers</i>, formerly Intendant of <i>Alsace</i>, is Secretary of the
+War-Office, in which he succeeded M. <i>le Blanc</i>, who was the Secretary a
+second time, when he died at <i>Versailles</i>. The first time that he was
+Secretary, he was supplanted by M. <i>de Breteuil</i>, during the Ministry of
+the Duke <i>de Bourbon</i>; and he, in his Turn, supplanted M. <i>de Breteuil</i>,
+the Queen’s Chancellor, in the Ministry of the Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>. You
+see by this, that the War-Office has been several times chang’d in a few
+Years; but ’tis like to remain always in
+the<!--242.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span>
+Hands of M.
+<i>d’Angervilliers</i>, whose Application, Vigilance and Integrity, are very
+much cry’d-up by the Officers, and all that have to do with him. I gave
+you some Account of this Minister, when I wrote to you from <i>Strasbourg</i>,
+to which I have nothing to add.</p>
+
+<p>As the Secretary of War has been often chang’d of late Years, the
+Comptroller-General of the Finances has been much more so. From the Year
+1711, when I first came to <i>Paris</i>, to this Day, I have known seven
+Comptrollers General, and not one of ’em died in the Office: So that this
+Post may well be compared to that of the Grand <i>Vizier</i>, which is alike
+struggled for, and alike fatal to those who are invested with it.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the Men who have had that ticklish Employment of
+Comptroller-General in <i>France</i>, there is not one that has made a more
+shining Fortune, and a Fortune that sooner slipp’d from him, than <i>John
+Law</i>. This Man, of whom many People have wrote and talk’d without knowing
+him, and according to their Passions, was a <i>Scotsman</i>, born with a narrow
+Fortune, but strong Desires to inlarge it. He had travell’d through
+several Parts of <i>Europe</i>, and Gaming prov’d his chief Subsistence. He won
+considerable Sums in <i>Italy</i>, especially at <i>Genoa</i>; and there it was that
+he hatch’d all those Projects which he put in Execution in <i>France</i>. ’Tis
+true, that he did not come into this Kingdom, till he had offered his
+Services to <i>Victor Amadeus</i>, the King of <i>Sardinia</i>. This Prince told
+him, That his Dominions were too small for the Execution of so great a
+Design; but that <i>France</i> was a Theatre, where he might expect to make his
+Market, and thither he advised him to go. <i>If I know the Humour of the
+<span class="f">French</span></i>, added the King, <i>I am sure they will relish your Schemes</i>. <i>John
+Law</i> took the Monarch’s Advice, and
+shewed<!--243.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span>
+his Project to the Regent, who
+approved it; and the Projector soon found, that he had the Purses of the
+<i>French</i> absolutely at his Command. As he was a Protestant, he made his
+Abjuration in the <i>Recollets</i> Church at <i>Melun</i>, in the Diocese of <i>Sens</i>,
+in the Month of <i>December</i> 1719, in the Hands of the Abbé<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a><i>Tancin</i>. In
+the Month of <i>January</i> following, he was made Comptroller-General; but he
+quitted that Post in <i>June</i>; abruptly left <i>Paris</i> on the thirteenth of
+<i>December</i> 1720; and after rambling about for a while, not knowing where
+to fix, (for his own Country did not suit him) he died at <i>Munich</i>. The
+Generality of the <i>French</i> accuse him of having exhausted <i>France</i>, and
+sent away immense Sums to Foreign Countries. How true this is, I know not,
+but ’tis certain, that <i>Law</i>, after his Disgrace, liv’d very meanly. His
+Widow and his Son, (Mr. <i>John Law</i>)<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> who are actually at <i>Utrecht</i>,
+make no very great Figure there, which very many People ascribe to Policy.
+But for my own Part, who think more freely, and don’t see what could
+hinder Mrs. <i>Law</i> and her Son from making a Display of their Riches, in
+the Country where they live; I can’t help crediting what People, and such
+as were <i>John Law</i>’s Intimates, have assured me for a certain Truth,
+<i>viz.</i> That <i>Law</i> being puff’d-up with his Fortune, and not thinking it
+would be so short-liv’d, had no Thought of securing it in Foreign
+Countries; and that if he had such a Purpose, he had not Time to send any
+Sums out of the Kingdom. He was
+oblig’d<!--244.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>
+both by Necessity, and out of
+Policy, to make Purchases in <i>France</i>; and accordingly he made
+considerable Acquisitions; but they were no more than a pleasant Dream to
+him, and the Loss of them only made his Disgrace the greater Affliction. I
+am of their Opinion, who believe that <i>John Law</i> was richer when he came
+to <i>France</i>, than he was three Months after he left it. This Copy of
+Verses was made upon him, which, perhaps, you will not be sorry to
+see<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">The <span class="smcap">Title</span> of it is, <span class="smcap">A Commission</span> of the <span class="smcap">Office</span> of
+<span class="smcap">Comptroller-General</span> of the <span class="smcap">Finances</span>, for Mr. <span class="smcap">John Law</span>.
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">De par le Dieu porte-marotte,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nous Général de la Calotte,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Attendu que le Régiment<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Est obligé sensiblement<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Au Sieur <span class="f">Law</span>, de qui la Science<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et conduite dans la Finance<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nous a donné maints Calotins,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En inventant les Bulletins,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Autrement dits Billets de Banque,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pour servir au jeu de la Blanque,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Jeu non renouvellé des Grecs,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Comme le Fade jeu de l’Oye,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mais imaginé tout exprès<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pour exciter l’homme à la joye:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Témoin les Plaisans viremens,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et continuels changemens,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Que l’on a vu dans le Royaume<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De Quinquempoix &amp; de Vendôme,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et Principauté de Soissons,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Où l’Achat &amp; le Dividende<br /></span></i>
+<!--245.png--><span class="pagenum">242</span>
+<i><span class="i0">Causoient un Rumeur st grande,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qu’on ne vit jamais tant de Rats<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Obseder gens de tous états:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mari, Femme, Garçon &amp; Fille!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Laquais, Servantes, la Famille!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En un mot, sans rien excepter,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Venoit jouer &amp; blanqueter,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et s’y portoit de telle sorte,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qu’il falloit Gardes à la Porte<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pour renvoyer chacun chez soi,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Après les trois coups de Beffroi.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Là de tous Païs &amp; Provinces,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Marchands, Magistrats, Artisans,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Prélats, Guerriers &amp; Courtisans,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ducs &amp; Pairs, &amp; même des Princes,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Non du Païs, mais bien forains,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Accouroient comme des Essains,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Malgré vent, grêle, pluye &amp; crotte,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pour y jouer à la Marotte,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En beaux &amp; bons deniers comptant,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Contre des Voleurs Calotines,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dont la <span class="f">France</span> &amp; terres voisines<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Se pourront souvenir longtems.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">A ces Causes, vu l’Abondance<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Des Calotins qui sont en <span class="f">France</span><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De tous Rangs &amp; de tous états,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Par le moyen du dit Sieur <span class="f">Las</span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nous lui consions nos Finances;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Voulons que sur ses Ordonnances<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nos fonds soient œconomisés,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Augmentés &amp; réalisés;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Afin que selon son merite<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Chacun ait part, grosse ou petite,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dans nos immenses Revenus,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tant de gros Fonds que de menus.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or comme un pareil Ministere<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Est sert étendu dans sa Sphere,<br /></span></i>
+<!--246.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span>
+<i><span class="i0">Lui donnons pour prémier Commis,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="f"><span class="smcap">Nompar</span><a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a></span> qui des moins endormis<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Connoit la manœuvre diverse<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De la Finance &amp; du Commerce.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lui donnons pour Profits &amp; Droit,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pensions, Gages &amp; Salaries,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Le quart de tous les Angles droits,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Que couperont les Commissaires<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Au papier qui sera visé,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et duquel en homme avisé<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Il a si bien grossi le nombre,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Que la <span class="f">France</span> y seroit à l’ombre,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Si tous le Billets rassemblés,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et les uns aux autres collés,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On en pouvoit saire une Tente.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Au surplus de ladite Rente,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lui donnons notre grand Cordon,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Passant de la droite à la gauche,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ainsi qu’un légere ébauche<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De sa droiture, dont le fond<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Va si loin que <span class="f"><a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a>Terrasson</span> même,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Grand calculateur du Système,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ne pourroit pas le mesurer.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En outre, pour mieux honorer<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Le chef de ce grand Personnage,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qui fit bouquer tout homme sage,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et soi disant docte &amp; profond,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lui donnons Calotte de plomb,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De la haute et prémiere classe;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et pour surcroit de telle grace,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Joignons à ces <span class="f"><a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></span>Coqs dont la voix<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Chanta la Justice au François,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Papillons, Rats &amp; Girouettes,<br /></span></i>
+<!--247.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span>
+<i><span class="i0">Hannetons Grelots, &amp; Sonnettes.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En mémoirs d’un si beau chant,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qu’au sortir de <span class="f">France</span> on publie<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qù il va chanter en <span class="f">Italie</span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Où sans doute il aura beau champ<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pour exercer son grand Génie,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et sa connoissance infinie<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dans l’art de décupler les sonds<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Par Billets payables à vue,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Desquels aujourd’hui nous voyons<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En <span class="f">France</span> une si bonne Issue.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ordonnons à tous les Païs<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De notre vaste Dépendance,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">De l’ecouter dans ses avis,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sur-tout dans l’art de la Finance;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Art qu’il possede eminemment.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fait au Conseil du Régiment<span class="f"><a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></span>.<br /></span>
+</i></div></div></div>
+
+<p>’Tis certain, that never was any thing more splendid, than the short Reign
+of his Fortune. The <i>French</i> perfectly idoliz’d, him, and even those who
+turned their Backs to his Altar, could not help admiring him as an
+extraordinary Man. The Nobility did not scruple to pay their Homage to
+him; and I have seen Dukes and Peers of <i>France</i> waiting in his
+Antichamber, like the meanest Subjects. Towards the Close, there was no
+coming to the Speech of him without Money. The <i>Swiss</i> must be feed for
+Entrance at his Gate, the
+<i>Lacqueys</i><!--248.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span>
+for Admittance into his Antichamber,
+and the <i>Valets de Chambre</i> for the Privilege of Access to his
+Presence-Chamber or Closet. The Audiences too were very short, and People
+were quickly dismissed with very little Merchandise for a great deal of
+Money. Mean time he was civil, and his Fortune did not seem to have puff’d
+him up. He was a fine handsome Man, of a fair Complexion, as the <i>English</i>
+generally are, and had a very noble Port. Nobody understood <i>Algebra</i>
+better than he did, and, let his Enemies say what they please, his System
+was good in itself, and might have been beneficial to <i>France</i>, if it had
+been punctually follow’d.</p>
+
+<p>The Scheme was calculated for keeping two Thirds more of Species in the
+Kingdom, than of Bills, in which Case there would always have been Money
+enough to have paid off those Bills. But this did not satisfy the Avarice
+of the Under-strappers; and in 1720, when the Bank Bills were put down,
+there were two Thirds of Bills in the Kingdom, to one Third of Money,
+<i>viz.</i> five hundred Millions of Money, to a thousand Millions in Bills;
+and M. <i>d’Argenson</i>, the Protector of the four Brothers of the Name of
+<i>Paris</i>, prevailed on the Regent to circulate 1760 Millions of
+extraordinary Bills not registered, with which People bought and sold
+Shares; and during this Commerce, the Bills were realiz’d by the Brokers
+into Species; insomuch that, according to a Computation then made by
+<i>Barême</i>, they say, that at the Time of the total Suppression of the
+Bills, which was in <i>October</i> 1720, there were more Livres <i>Tournois</i> in
+the famous Bank of <i>Missisippi</i>, than there had been Minutes since the
+Creation of the World. All this Variety of Bills had so stupified the
+<i>Parisians</i>, and they gave them such intire Credit, that before the Arret
+of
+the<!--249.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span>
+fifteenth of <i>May</i> 1720, which sunk the Bills from ten <i>per Cent.
+per Mensem</i> to half their Value, a <i>Parisian</i> did not care to be paid in
+Specie; for he thought Bills were far better, not only because they were
+not liable to be lower’d, but because they were more ready to count, and
+especially to carry. A Man that had Millions in his Pocket did not
+perceive the Weight of ’em, whereas but one hundred <i>Louis-d’ors</i> are too
+heavy; and, how was it possible for a Man to carry them in his Pocket
+without being tir’d? While Peoples Fortunes were in Paper, I could boast
+of having had a Letter-case once in my Hands, in which there were Notes to
+the Value of thirty-two Millions. If they had been my own, I question
+whether I should have let them lie in Bank Bills, with the Hazard of
+losing half the Value. What follows, is a short, but curious Account of
+this Scheme<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lewis</i> XIV. a little before he died, was two thousand two hundred
+Millions in Debt: But by the Reduction of the Principal and Interest of
+the Revenues of the Town-House, (of <i>Paris</i>) by strikeing off two fifths
+upon all Contracts, and by reducing Interest to four <i>per Cent.</i> the Debts
+of the State were reduced to one thousand eight hundred Millions; which
+was the very Sum that was owing from the Crown, when <i>Lewis</i> XV. came to
+it. The Debts of the Government were afterwards reduced to one thousand
+four hundred Millions, by sinking a Quarter, a half and three-fourths upon
+the State Bills, as well as all other Debts owing by the King, as also on
+Pensions, and by the Recovery of great Sums thro’ the Chamber of Justice.
+Mr. <i>Law</i> thought he should be able to extinguish all the Debts, by a
+Scheme which he
+form’d<!--250.png--><span class="pagenum">247</span>
+upon the Profits that were made by <i>Missisippi</i>.
+For this Purpose he erected a Bank, and caused as many Shares to be
+created, as amounted to one hundred and fifty Millions, at one hundred
+Livres each, payable in State Bills, which, to the Advantage of the
+Buyers, rose to no less than one thousand. After this, he created more
+Actions, to the Value of one hundred and five Millions, payable in Money
+or Effects, at one thousand <i>per Cent.</i> which, with the former one hundred
+and fifty Millions, produced one thousand six hundred and fifty Millions;
+a Sum more than sufficient to cancel all the King’s Debts. Besides this,
+Mr. <i>Law</i> created Bank Bills for one thousand two hundred Millions, of
+which he received the Value, either in Money or Effects. He raised the
+Money higher, upon which there were at least three hundred Millions
+Profit, that are not brought to the Accompt. He compelled all People to
+carry their Money to the Bank, by certain Arrets, which injoin’d People at
+first, to keep no more than one hundred Livres by them, and afterwards but
+five hundred. So that in eight Months Management, he augmented the old
+Debts of the State, that were one thousand four hundred Millions, to one
+thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; which, added to the one thousand
+two hundred Millions of the Bank, rise to two thousand eight hundred and
+fifty Millions, due at this Time from the King. If to this we add the
+<i>Præmium</i> to which the Actions rose, which at one thousand eight hundred
+among private People, make five thousand four hundred Millions more; to
+which the one thousand two hundred Millions in Bank Bills must be added;
+it will appear that the Public is charg’d with six thousand six hundred
+Millions in Paper; and for the paying off of that Sum, there will be but
+five hundred Millions in the
+Kingdom<!--251.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span>
+in Specie, when they are reduced to
+their intrinsic Value. The King having received one thousand six hundred
+and five Millions in Effects, of which he owed the greatest Part, and
+Actions or Shares being taken instead thereof, which Actions, by secret
+Management, rose to five thousand four hundred Millions among the
+Subjects, Mr. <i>Law</i> thereby gave the People the Opportunity of putting
+three thousand seven hundred and five Millions in their Pockets.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+An <span class="smcap">Account</span> of the
+<span class="smcap">Bank Bills</span> that subsisted, and of those that
+were burnt.
+</div>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 2em 2em;">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">Bills engraved</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">669000000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Bills printed</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1927400000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">—————</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><i>Viz.</i></td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Bills of</td><td align="right">10000</td><td align="left">Livres</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1134000000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1000</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1123200000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">299200000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">40000000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">—————</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">Total</td><td align="right">2596400000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Bills burnt of</td><td align="right">10000</td><td align="left">Livres</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">562500000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1000</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">138528000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">6026000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">273460</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">—————</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">Total</td><td align="right">707327460</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">There then remained</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">therefore in Trade</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">1989072540</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The Fortunes made at <i>Paris</i>, during this <i>Missisippi</i> Contagion, are so
+extraordinary, that unless one had seen it, ’twere impossible to believe
+it; and, what is still more unaccountable, the
+greatest<!--252.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span>
+were rais’d by
+mere Scoundrels; for except a few of the Court Lords and Ladies, it look’d
+as if Fortune had resolved to put the Gentry into Almshouses, for the Sake
+of inriching a Parcel of Bankrupts, Lacqueys, Beggars, and other of the
+Mobility<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a>. And ’tis my real Opinion, that if God had not interpos’d,
+Footmen would at length have been the Masters, and the Masters the
+Footmen. The Handicraftsmen laid by their Work; there was nothing talked
+of but Actions, and every Place echoed with <i>Missisippi</i> and
+<i>Quinquempoix</i>, which is the Street where all that hopeful Trade was
+carried on.</p>
+
+<p>These lucky <i>Missisippians</i> have nevertheless seen the Turn of Fortune’s
+Wheel. The Generality of those who had not the Precaution to send their
+Money out of the Kingdom, were called to Accompt, and obliged to disgorge
+a Part of their Gains. Whether the King got much by this Scrutiny, I know
+not; but I believe it had the same Fate as the Chamber of Justice,
+established in 1716, in the <i>Augustins</i> Convent at <i>Paris</i>, for the
+Prosecution of People employ’d in the Finances. This Tribunal, at the Head
+of which was M. <i>de Portail</i>, now the first President, had condemned
+several Tax Gatherers for an infinite Number of Misdemeanors committed in
+the King’s Finances. Some were punished as they justly deserved. A great
+many were tax’d in Proportion to the Declarations they were forced to make
+of their immense Wealth, which might have produc’d very considerable Sums
+for the Ease of the Government, at that Time plung’d over Head and Ears in
+Debt. But these Bloodsuckers of the People
+compounded<!--253.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span>
+for a Trifle of
+Expence, by a few Presents to a Lady, or to some Nobleman who had the
+Favour of the Regent. This was a Golden Shower, of which the least Part
+fell into the King’s Coffers.</p>
+
+<p>I have made a terrible Digression. Mr. <i>Law</i> carried me to <i>Missisippi</i>,
+which is a long Voyage, and a Country from whence a Man can’t return
+whenever he has a Mind to it; but I am now come back to the Court. I have
+mentioned the Ministers to you, but they are not the only Persons that
+have a Seat in the Council. One of its Members is the Marshal <i>de
+Villars</i>, who being of all the <i>French</i> Generals, the Man that made the
+most shining Figure during the last War, I think myself oblig’d to give
+you a more particular Account of him.</p>
+
+<p><i>Francis Hector</i>, Duke <i>de Villars</i>, Marshal of <i>France</i>, and Dean of the
+Marshals, is a Gentleman of a good Family, his Father having been a
+Commander of the King’s Orders. His Stature is above the middle Size, and
+he has the Port and Step of a Nobleman. He has an agreeable winning
+Countenance, and hazel Eyes, which are lively and sparkling. He is a Man
+of Penetration, crafty, complaisant, and capable of great Affairs. He
+talks a great deal; but what he says is to the Purpose. He is laborious,
+attach’d to, and indefatigable in Business, a courageous good Soldier, and
+a successful General. Satire charges him with Avarice, as it did the Duke
+of <i>Marlborough</i> his Rival: He is, withal, accused of being too haughty,
+and too conceited of his Actions, and his Merits. This, indeed, may be
+true enough; for I myself was Witness to a Conversation, in which he
+discovered it sufficiently plain. ’Twas the Winter after the Battle of
+<i>Denain</i>, when
+the<!--254.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>
+Marshall being at Dinner with the late<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>M.
+<i>d’Armagnac</i>, Great Master of the Horse, where I was likewise a Guest; he
+talked a great deal about his Exploits, to which I listened so
+attentively, that he took Notice of it; and being unknown to him, he
+whispered the Master of the Horse in the Ear, to know who I was; and when
+the Marshal was told that I was a <i>German</i>, he paid me a good deal of
+Respect. Then resuming his Discourse, and addressing it to me, he talked
+of his Victory at <i>Denain</i>, with an Air of mighty Self-Applause. <i>But
+why</i>, said he, <i>did your People drown themselves? I am merciful, I would
+have given them Quarter</i>; <i>and they ought surely to have asked it</i>. I
+declare to you, that my Soul was all in Fire for the Honour of <i>Germany</i>.
+Those Words, Mercy and Quarter, I took for an Insult upon my Country. I
+was young and hot-headed, and was just going to return him an Answer that
+would not have become me; however, I kept my Temper, and ’twas not till
+the second or third Provocation that I made him Answer, <i>That I did not
+think he ought to be surprized at what the <span class="f">German</span> Troops did, because they
+had known his Valour sufficiently before the Battle of <span class="f">Denain</span>, but never
+had a Trial of his Clemency</i>. I saw that he did not relish my Answer, upon
+which he shifted the Subject, and did not speak a Word more to me all the
+Time.</p>
+
+<p>Some time after the Peace, however, I made him Satisfaction: ’Twas at the
+House of the Duchess <i>de Lude</i>, Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+<i>Burgundy</i>. There was a great deal of Company, and among the rest, the
+Marshal <i>de Villars</i>. The Conversation fell upon the Custom of the
+Ancients, to give Surnames to their Heroes; and the Moderns were blam’d
+for not doing so too.
+<i>What</i><!--255.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span>
+<i>Name should we find for you, Marshal?</i> said
+the Duchess <i>de Lude</i>. I replied immediately, <i>This would be no difficult
+Task. I don’t think that any Title would suit the Marshal <span class="f">de Villars</span>
+better than that of <span class="f">Germanicus Franciscus</span></i>. This Trifle hit the Marshal’s
+Taste so nicely, that he put on a smiling Countenance, and said a great
+many obliging Things to me.</p>
+
+<p>The Marshal <i>de Villars</i>, in his Youth, was a Page to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. He
+enter’d into the Service very young, and distinguished himself at his
+first setting-out, so that he really owes his Advancement more to his
+Services and Merit, than to Fortune. After the Peace of <i>Ryswic</i>, he had
+the Care of the King’s Affairs at the Emperor’s Court; but was recalled
+from thence a little before the War began, upon Account of the Succession
+to the King of <i>Spain</i>, <i>Charles</i> II. When the War was declared, M. <i>de
+Villars</i>, at that time Lieutenant-General, was in the Army in <i>Germany</i>,
+commanded by the Marshal <i>Catinat</i>. The Marquis <i>de Villars</i>, with a
+Detachment from the Army, attack’d the <i>Imperialists</i> near <i>Fridlinguen</i>
+in 1702. The <i>French</i> said, that he won the Victory; the <i>Germans</i> say,
+No. Which Party is in the Right, I can’t tell; but be it as it will, the
+Staff of a Marshal of <i>France</i> was M. <i>de Villars</i> Reward for the Battle.
+The same Year the Duke of <i>Savoy</i> entring into an Alliance against the two
+Crowns, at the very Time that he assured them of his Attachment, the
+Treaty which that Prince made with the Emperor and his Allies, was kept
+secret for a while, tho’ not so secret but the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i> knew
+of it; and his Electoral Highness reproaching the Envoy of <i>Savoy</i> with
+it, that Minister actually swore he knew nothing of the Matter, and that,
+moreover, he did not believe it; upon which the Marshal <i>de Villars</i>, who
+was
+present,<!--256.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span>
+clapp’d his Hand upon the Envoy’s Shoulder, and repeated
+this Verse to him out of <i>Racine</i>; <i>Tu ne le crois que trop, malheureux
+<span class="f">Mithridate</span></i>, <i>i. e.</i> Ah! poor <i>Mithridates</i>! thou believest it but too
+much. In 1704, the Marshal <i>de Villars</i> was recalled from the Army in
+<i>Germany</i>, to command in the <i>Cevennois</i>, where he gained Palms and
+Olives, as well as Laurels; for by his good Nature and Moderation he
+pacified a Rebellion, which the too great Severity of his Predecessor, the
+Marshal <i>de Montrevel</i>, had but the more inflamed.</p>
+
+<p>After this, he had the Command of the Army in <i>Germany</i>, and kept it till
+1709, when he went into the <i>Netherlands</i> to relieve the Duke <i>de
+Vendosme</i>, who was sent into <i>Spain</i>. M. <i>de Villars</i>, when in <i>Flanders</i>,
+retriev’d the Honour of <i>France</i>, which had been sully’d there by several
+Defeats. For tho’ the <i>French</i> suffer’d another at the Battle of
+<i>Malplaquet</i>, yet they made so brave a Stand, that the Allies could not
+help admiring their Courage. The Marshal <i>de Villars</i>, being wounded in
+the Knee, was obliged to retire, and to leave the Command to the Marshal
+<i>de Boufflers</i>, who drew off the Army in good Order. They give out, that
+when the Marshal <i>de Villars</i> heard the News, he said, <i><span class="f">Villars</span> was not
+there; he could not be everywhere</i>. The Allies paid dear for this Victory;
+for they lost twenty-three thousand Men, besides a considerable Number of
+Officers of Distinction. They might say as <i>Pyrrhus</i> did, after the Defeat
+of the <i>Romans</i>, <i>One more such a Victory, and I am undone</i>. The <i>French</i>
+lost eight thousand one hundred thirty-seven Men; and during the whole
+Course of the War, there was not a more bloody, nor a more obstinate
+Battle.</p>
+
+<p>The Campaign of 1712 was the most glorious to the Marshal <i>de Villars</i>, of
+any that he ever made; for he therein gained the Victory at
+<i>Denain</i>,<!--257.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span>
+and
+in two Months time took from the Allies what had cost them several
+Campaigns.</p>
+
+<p>’Twas about the same time, that, upon the Death of the Duke <i>de Vendôme</i>
+at <i>Vinaroz</i> in <i>Spain</i>, <i>Lewis</i> XIV. conferr’d his Government of
+<i>Provence</i> upon the Marshal, who was also made a Duke and Peer. They tell
+a Story, that when he went to take Possession of his Government, and the
+Deputies of the Province presented him with a Purse full of <i>Lewis d’Ors</i>,
+One of ’em said, <i>Here</i>, my Lord, <i>is such another Purse as that we gave
+to the Duke <span class="f">de Vendôme</span>, when, like you, he came to be our Governor; but
+that Prince refus’d to take it</i>. <i>Ah!</i> said the Marshal <i>de Villars</i>,
+squeezing the Purse, <i>M. <span class="f">de Vendôme</span> has not left his Fellow behind him</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The War in the <i>Netherlands</i> being finish’d by the Peace at <i>Utrecht</i>, the
+Marshal <i>de Villars</i> had again the Command of the Army in <i>Germany</i>. When
+he took his Leave of the King, he said to him, <i>I most humbly intreat your
+Majesty to consider, that I leave you in the midst of my Enemies, whilst I
+am going to fight yours</i>. He actually took <i>Landau</i> and <i>Fribourg</i>, and
+afterwards return’d to <i>Versailles</i>, to receive the King’s Orders to go
+and treat of a Peace with Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i>. During the Campaign
+his Enemies told the King, in hopes his Majesty would blame him for it,
+that he had laid out the Sum of 1800,000 Livres in the Purchase of an
+Estate. The King asking him one Day at Dinner, if it was true that he had
+made such a Purchase; <i>Yes, Sir</i>, replied the Marshal, who suspected that
+those who told the King of it were then at the Table, <i>I have bought an
+Estate which cost me 1800,000 Livres; and if the War continues, and your
+Majesty trusts me with the Command of your Army, I hope to purchase a more
+considerable one next Year at the Expence of your Enemies</i>. But instead of
+making another Campaign, the Marshal went to
+<i>Rastadt</i>,<!--258.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span>
+where he and
+Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i> sign’d the Preliminaries of the Peace, which
+those two Generals concluded afterwards at <i>Baden</i> on the seventh of
+<i>June</i> 1714. Since that time the Marshal has always resided at Court. The
+<i>French</i> look upon him as the Restorer of their Reputation in the
+<i>Netherlands</i>, the Support of the State, and the chief Captain of his
+Time: He is loaded with Wealth and Dignities: He is a Duke and Peer, a
+Marshal of <i>France</i>, a Grandee of <i>Spain</i>, a Knight Commander of the
+King’s Orders, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Governor of <i>Provence</i>.
+He has an only Son, for whom he has obtain’d the Reversion of his
+Government<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>.</p>
+
+<!--259.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Perhaps I have detain’d you too long about the Marshal <i>de Villars</i>; but I
+thought the little
+Particularities<!--260.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span>
+I have given you would do you a
+Pleasure, and that you would not be sorry to know some Circumstances of a
+Man, who, after all, has been much cry’d-up in <i>Europe</i>. I shall be more
+brief in my Account of the other Noblemen, and of these I shall name but
+two or three, of whom you have heard some Talk, and such as are in most
+Reputation with us.</p>
+
+<p><i>James Fitz-James</i> Duke of <i>Berwic</i>, a Peer and Marshal of <i>France</i>, a
+Peer of <i>England</i>, a Grandee of <i>Spain</i>, a Knight of the Garter, and of
+the Golden Fleece, is the legitimated Son of <i>James</i> II. King of <i>Great
+Britain</i><a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>. He follow’d his Father to <i>France</i>, where he served with
+Distinction. In 1706 he had the Marshal’s Staff given him; and in 1707 he
+commanded the Army of the two Crowns in <i>Spain</i>, where he defeated the
+Lord <i>Gallway</i> near <i>Almanza</i>. The King of <i>Spain</i>, to reward him for such
+great Service, made him a Grandee of <i>Spain</i>, and gave him the Duchy of
+<i>Liria</i>, which M. <i>de Berwic</i> yielded to his eldest Son, who is actually
+in Possession of it. In 1714 the Marshal-Duke of <i>Berwic</i> reduc’d
+<i>Barcelona</i> under the Obedience of <i>Philip</i> V. This City had refus’d to
+acknowledge that Prince, and tho’ abandon’d, and without any Hopes of
+Relief,<!--261.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span>
+continued the War with an Obstinacy of Men who seem’d to be
+desperate. The very Women, the Priests, Friers, all were Soldiers in
+<i>Barcelona</i>; and during the Siege, which held sixty-one Days with open
+Trenches, after a Blockade of eleven Months, there were five hundred and
+forty-three Friers and Priests kill’d and wounded in the Sallies and
+Attacks. The City was taken on the eleventh of <i>September</i> by Storm: The
+Battle lasted from Four o’Clock in the Morning till Eleven, when the
+Inhabitants retir’d into the new Town, which is only separated from the
+other by a single Wall. They surrender’d next Day at Discretion to the
+Marshal-Duke <i>de Berwic</i>, who gave them a verbal Promise to save their
+Lives, and to protect the City from Plunder, on their paying down a large
+Sum of Money. <i>Barcelona</i> being thus reduc’d, the Marshal return’d to
+<i>France</i> loaded with Wealth and Honours. Upon the Death of King <i>Lewis</i>
+XIV. he was admitted to the Council of the Regency, and sent soon after to
+command in <i>Guienne</i>. The Regent gave him the Command of the Army against
+the King of <i>Spain</i>, which his Royal Highness had before offer’d to the
+Marshal <i>de Villars</i>; but that Nobleman told him, He would never draw his
+Sword against a Prince who might one Day become his Sovereign, a Prince
+for whose Service he had already spilt some Blood, and one for whom the
+Kingdom had expended such a Treasure. The Marshal-Duke of <i>Berwic</i>, being
+not so delicate, accepted of the Command, took <i>St. Sebastian</i>, and obey’d
+the Regent much more than he was bound to do in Duty.</p>
+
+<p>For this he was continued in the Command of <i>Guienne</i>, and particularly of
+<i>Bourdeaux</i>. For some time past the Marshal-Duke has been very
+much<!--262.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span>
+at
+Court, and often at his Ducal Lordship in <i>Picardy</i><a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Victor-Maria</i> Duke <i>d’Estrées</i>, whom I ought to have mention’d before the
+Duke of <i>Berwic</i>, as
+being<!--263.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span>
+the oldest Marshal of <i>France</i>, is
+Vice-Admiral of the Kingdom, a Duke and Peer, a Grandee of <i>Spain</i>, a
+Commandeur of the King’s Orders, and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. He is
+the last of his Family, which has been render’d illustrious by all the
+great Dignities of the Kingdom ever since<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> the charming <i>Gabriella
+d’Estrées</i>, who was Mistress to <i>Henry</i> IV. He lives with as much Splendor
+and Magnificence as most Noblemen in <i>France</i>: His House is open to all
+Foreigners of Distinction, and Men of Knowledge and Learning are well
+receiv’d in it. The Marshal has a fine Library, a most beautiful Cabinet
+of Medals, and a complete Collection of antique Stones that are grav’d.
+Besides the Estate of the Family of <i>Estrées</i>, of which he is the only
+Head, he made great Acquisitions by <i>Missisippi</i> Stock, and there are few
+Sovereigns that have finer Diamonds. Since the Troubles that arose in
+<i>Bretagne</i> during the Regency of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, the Assembly of
+the States of that Province is always held by this Nobleman. The Nobility
+of <i>Bretagne</i> extol him very much, and find a great Difference between
+their Treatment by this Marshal, and the rigid haughty Air with which the
+late Marshal <i>de Montesquiou</i> carried it to them during the Regency. Tho’
+the Marshal <i>d’Estrées</i> is very much attach’d to the Court, yet he is
+often at <i>Paris</i>, where he has a very fine House, and is visited by the
+greatest and the best People in the Kingdom. The Marshal’s Lady, who is
+<i>Noailles</i>, Sister to the Countess <i>de Tholouse</i>, was formerly a Lady of
+the Bed-chamber to the Duchess of <i>Burgundy</i>; she has all the Politeness
+of the ancient Court, and tho’ she is past the Bloom of her Youth, she is
+still one of the most amiable Women
+at<!--264.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>
+Court, and by her Management there
+is not a more agreeable Family than hers in the Kingdom. I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Paris, May 22, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yesterday I loiter’d away a good deal of Time with a Couple of
+<i>Englishmen</i>, to whom, as they call it in <i>Italy</i>, I was a <i>Cicero</i><a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a>.
+Nevertheless, you must not expect me to give you an Account of every thing
+I saw; and besides, so much has been already said of <i>Versailles</i>, that
+you shall hardly find one Book in twenty, almost, but what treats of the
+Beauties of this Royal Palace.</p>
+
+<p>After having shew’d my <i>English</i> Gentlemen the Castle, the Chapel, the
+Stables and the Park, I carried them to the Royal Abbey of <i>St. Cyr</i>,
+which they had heard so much Talk of, that they long’d to see it: ’Tis a
+grand stately House, and worthy of the Magnificence of the great Monarch
+who founded it, at the Solicitation of Madame <i>de Maintenon</i>, for the
+Education of two hundred and fifty young Damsels, whose Families are not
+able to give them a Maintenance suitable to their Birth. Immediately after
+the Demise of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. Madame <i>de Maintenon</i> retir’d to <i>St. Cyr</i>, and
+there she always dwelt till she died. She went thither
+indeed,<!--265.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span>
+even
+during the King’s Illness, as soon as she found that the Physicians had
+given him over; the King, however, contrary to all Expectation, recover’d;
+and not seeing Madame <i>de Maintenon</i>, ask’d where she was: Upon this the
+Lady return’d, when the King gave her a handsome Reprimand for abandoning
+him, and desir’d her to stay with him as long as he had any Remains of
+Life. Madame <i>de Maintenon</i> obey’d, but the King’s Breath was no sooner
+out of his Body, than she took Coach, and went to <i>St. Cyr</i>, with a Design
+never to stir from it as long as she liv’d.</p>
+
+<p>She had the Consolation, however, of receiving Visits there from all the
+Princes and Princesses of the Blood; and even the late Madame the Regent’s
+Mother, who never visited Madame <i>de Maintenon</i> in the King’s Life-time,
+thought she could not excuse herself from making her a Visit. The Regent
+went thither likewise, and told her, she might depend upon his punctual
+Regard to every Tittle that the late King had order’d in her Favour by his
+last Will and Testament. Madame <i>de Maintenon</i> return’d him Thanks, and
+said, that as she was resolv’d to be retir’d for the Residue of her Life,
+she desir’d but 40,000 Livres a Year for her Subsistance. Four Years after
+this she died, and was interr’d in the Church of <i>St. Cyr</i>, in the Middle
+of the Choir, in a Tomb of plain black Marble, with the following Epitaph
+engrav’d on it; which I lik’d so well, that I have copied it Word for
+Word, and send it to you, because I don’t believe you have seen it
+elsewhere.</p>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">CY  GIT</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Très baute &amp; très puissante Dame</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Madame</i> <span class="smcap">Francoise d’Aubigne</span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Marquise de</i> <span class="smcap">Maintenon</span>;<br /></span>
+<!--266.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span><span
+class="i0"><i>Femme Illustre, Femme vraiment Chrétienne;</i><br /></span>
+<i><span class="i0">Cette Femme forte que le Sage chercha vainement dans son Siecle,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et qu’il nous eût proposé pour modele, s’il eût vêcu dans le nôtre.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sa Naissance fut très noble.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On loua de bonne heure son Esprit, &amp; plus encore sa Vertu.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">La Sagesse, la Douceur, la Modestie sormoient son Caractere,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qui ne se démentit jamais.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Toujours égale dans les differentes situations de sa vie;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mêmes Principles, mêmes Regles, mêmes Vertus.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fidèle dans les exercices de Piété,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tranquille au milieu des agitations de la Cour,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Simple dans la Grandeur,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pauvre dans le centre des richesses,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Humble au comble des honneurs;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Révérée de <span class="f"><span class="smcap">Louis le Grand</span></span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Environnée de sa gloire,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Autorisée par sa plus intime confiance,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dépositaire de ses graces,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qui n’a jamais fait d’usage de son pouvoir,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Que par sa bonté.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Une autre Esther dans la faveur,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Une seconde Judith dans la Retraite &amp; l’Oraison:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">La Mere des Pauvres,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L’Asyle toujours sûr des malheureux,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Une vie si illustre<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A été terminée par un mort sainte<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et precieuse devant Dieu.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Son Corps est resté dans cette sainte maison,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dont elle avoit procuré l’établissement;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et elle a laissé à l’univers<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L’exemple de ses vertus.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Décédée le 15 d’Avril 1719.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Née le 28 de Novembre
+1635.<!--267.png--><span class="f"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span></span><br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">i. e.<br /><br /></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">HERE LIES</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">The most high and most potent Lady<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Lady <span class="f"><span class="smcap">Francese d’Aubigny</span></span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Marchioness of <span class="f"><span class="smcap">Maintenon</span></span>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A Wife illustrious<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor"><span class="f">[73]</span></a>, a Woman truly Christian;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That virtuous Heroine whom the wise Man sought in vain in his Time,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And whom he wou’d have propos’d to us for a Pattern, if he had liv’d in ours.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She was of Birth most noble,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her Wit was early commended, and much more her Virtue.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sobriety, good Nature and Modesty, form’d her Character,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">From which she never derogated.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Always unchangeable in the various Situations of her Life;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The same Principles, the same Rules, the same Virtues.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sincere in the Exercises of Piety,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tranquil during the Storms at Court,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Plain in the Midst of Grandeur,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Poor in the Centre of Wealth,<br /></span>
+<!--268.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"><span class="f">265</span></a></span><span
+class="i0">Humble at the Summit of Honours;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rever’d by <span class="f"><span class="smcap">Lewis le Grand</span></span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Environ’d with his Glory,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Vested with his most intimate Confidence,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Depositary of his Favours,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who never made use of her Power<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But to do Good.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Another <span class="f">Esther</span> in Favour,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A second <span class="f">Judith</span> in Retirement and Prayer:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Mother of the Poor,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The never-failing Asylum of the Unfortunate.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A Life so illustrious<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was cut off by a Death Pious,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And precious in the Sight of God.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her Body lies in this Sacred House,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of which she procur’d the Establishment:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And her Virtues she has left<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To the World for a Pattern.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She departed this Life <span class="f">April 15, 1719.</span><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Being born the 28th of <span class="f">November 1635.</span><br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+<p>My <i>Englishmen</i> thought the Panegyric upon Madame <i>de Maintenon</i> a little
+too much strain’d. I confess that I think she is well equipp’d with a
+Character; and if it be true, that she was as humble as her Epitaph
+imports, I make no doubt, but if she had liv’d to see such an Encomium, it
+would have put her Modesty sadly out of Countenance: For ’tis certain,
+that this Lady had a very great Fund of Virtue and Piety; and I have heard
+it said by Persons, who otherwise had no reason to be fond of her, that
+’twas impossible to be acquainted with her, and not to esteem her.</p>
+
+<p>When I return’d from <i>St. Cyr</i>, I came hither to see M. <i>Voltaire</i>’s
+Tragedy of <i>Brutus</i>, which is so fine a Piece, that I and my <i>English</i>
+Companions were charm’d with it: We not only admir’d the Conduct and
+Versification of it, but we
+applauded<!--269.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span>
+the Freedom with which the Author
+makes the <i>Romans</i> think and speak. Mean time, the <i>French</i> are not of our
+Opinion. <i>The Respect due to Royalty</i>, say they, <i>is not well preserv’d in
+it</i>. They censure the Author <i>for presuming to confine the Royal Authority
+within the Bounds of Justice</i>. <i>M.</i> de Voltaire, say they, <i>never could
+imbibe these Sentiments in</i> France. <i>’Tis very plain that he contracted
+them beyond Sea. They may be relish’d well enough by the</i> English; <i>but to
+us they are intolerable: And if M.</i> de Voltaire <i>goes on to write in this
+Manner, he may, perhaps, have an Apartment in the</i> Bastile. I confess that
+terrible Name dumb-founder’d me, and I did not dare to say a Word in the
+Author’s Vindication, for fear of being deem’d his Accomplice. The
+<i>Bastile</i> and the <i>Holy Office</i> are two Terms which always silenc’d me,
+even when I have had the strongest Inclination to speak my Mind.</p>
+
+<p>As for the Comedians, they perform’d Wonders. One <i>du Frêne</i> actually
+out-did himself. He is Brother to <i>Quinaut</i>, an excellent Comedian in the
+Parts which require Humour, but excessively out-of-the-Way in Tragedy; and
+take him off the Theatre, impertinent beyond Expression, as is also his
+Brother, tho’ they are both Men of Wit.</p>
+
+<p>The Players are much more respected here than they are elsewhere, which
+makes them insolent to the last Degree. The Nobility are fond of their
+Company, and admit them to their Parties of Pleasure: And as they are
+Kings upon the Stage, and Equals and Companions at Table with the best
+Lords in the Kingdom, no wonder that it turns their Brains. But that which
+must needs render them arrogant beyond Measure, is a late Instance of
+Regard paid them by the <i>French</i> Academy, who, by a Letter, invited the
+Performers in the <i>French</i> Comedy, to hear an Oration made
+in<!--270.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span>
+their
+Academy; which the Comedians took for such an Honour, that the very next
+Day they offer’d the Members of the Academy Admission to their Comedy
+<i>Gratis</i>; which the Academicians made no Scruple to accept, to the great
+Amazement of the whole City of <i>Paris</i>, which blames the Members for it
+not a little: The Fault is laid at the Door of certain Authors, who are in
+League with the Comedians, and gave the Invitation without consulting the
+rest of the Members, of whom several that had, no Hand in the Transaction,
+protested against the Conduct of those who had, the Consequence of which
+was a Quarrel in the Academy. Indeed, one would imagine by that Day’s
+Work, that they did not really consider what they were doing; and the
+Noblemen who are Members of the Academy, cry out against it very much.
+’Tis true, that the Comedians who presume to offer Admission <i>Gratis</i> to a
+Marshal <i>de Villars</i>, a Marshal <i>d’Estrées</i>, or other Noblemen of that
+Rank, are not mean Fellows, and deserve the Appellation of the <i>Company
+of</i> Comedians, instead of <i>Troop</i>; in order to distinguish them from the
+Strollers in the<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> Country. Why then should not they be honour’d? The
+Actors in the Opera, who, as well as they, divert the Public for Lucre,
+have, indeed, the Privilege, that a Gentleman may be admitted among them
+without Disparagement to his Title. This is a Favour, says a modern Author
+very justly, which had never yet been granted to those who perform in the
+public Spectacles, and who give Diversion for Money; because
+in<!--271.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span>
+most of
+the Ages of Christianity, they had been look’d upon as Persons
+excommunicated and infamous, by reason of the Corruption in Morals, owing
+to their then too licentious Representations, which, perhaps, is no longer
+apprehended to be the Case at present. ’Tis certain, that if a Performer
+in an Opera may be noble, I can’t see why a Person mayn’t be the same in a
+Comedy; tho’ ’tis my Opinion, that if Stage-players may be Gentlemen,
+Rope-dancers and Tumblers have a Title to it; for, besides the Honour they
+have of diverting the Public, they run the Risk of breaking their Necks
+every Day; and is not that the Lot of the Nobility?</p>
+
+<p>As I returned Yesterday with my <i>Englishmen</i> from <i>Versailles</i>, we went to
+<i>St. Cloud</i>, where we had the Honour to see the Duke <i>de Chartres</i>, the
+only Son of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>. This Prince was in the Park, to see a
+young Officer of the Train of Artillery make Proofs of some Pieces of
+Ordnance. We were surpriz’d to see how attentively the young Prince
+observed every thing, and to hear him ask the Officer such Questions as
+were not to be expected from one of his Years. We had reason also to
+applaud the gracious and polite Reception which he gave us. To be plain, I
+was charm’d to see a Grandson of the late <i>Madame</i>, so worthy of herself,
+and of the illustrious Blood from which he is descended.</p>
+
+<p><i>St. Cloud</i> is a Palace belonging to the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, first Prince
+of the Blood, and was built by Order of the late Monsieur <i>Philip</i> of
+<i>France</i>, (Brother of <i>Lewis</i> XIV.) who added very magnificent Gardens to
+it. ’Tis certain, that if the late King had chose <i>St. Cloud</i> for his
+Residence, instead of <i>Versailles</i>, he might have had a finer Building
+with less Expence. What is most admir’d at <i>St. Cloud</i>, are the Gallery
+and
+Salon,<!--272.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span>
+both painted by <i>Mignard</i>, the Cascade, and the great
+Water-work, which throws up the Water a hundred Feet high, and which
+nothing exceeds of the Kind, but the Work that was made by the Direction
+of an<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a><i>English</i> Gentleman at <i>Herenhausen</i>, near <i>Hanover</i>, in the
+Reign of King <i>George</i> I.</p>
+
+<p><i>St. Cloud</i> has been fatal to several Princes of the Royal Family. <i>Henry</i>
+III. was assassinated there on the first of <i>August</i> 1589, at eight
+o’Clock in the Morning, by <i>James Clement</i>. <i>Henrietta</i> of <i>England</i>,
+first Wife to the late <i>Philip</i> of <i>France</i>, Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, only
+Brother to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. died there suddenly of a Colic, on the 30th of
+<i>June</i> 1670. She said that she was poison’d, for which Reason the King
+caus’d her Corpse to be open’d in Presence of the <i>English</i> Ambassador.
+’Tis a difficult Matter, to judge whether that Princess’s Suspicions were
+true; for the Physicians and Surgeons found all her noble Parts corrupted,
+tho’ she was but twenty-six Years old. Her Husband paid his Tribute to
+Nature on a sudden, in the same Palace, on the 4th of <i>June</i> 1701.</p>
+
+<p>What I have mentioned to you of the unhappy Catastrophe of the last of the
+<i>Valois</i>, puts me in Mind of a Passage in History, that <i>Te Deum</i> was
+forgot in the Ceremony of his Coronation; that the Crown fell from his
+Head; and that there was no Oil in the Sacred Phial, to perform the
+customary<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> Unction; which were then taken for ill Omens, and Time
+prov’d them but too true.</p>
+
+<!--273.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Since I am upon Tragical Events, I will mention a Thing to you that lately
+happen’d in <i>England</i>, and which I was assur’d by the <i>English</i> Gentlemen,
+in our Return from <i>Versailles</i>, is a certain Fact.</p>
+
+<p>One <i>Richard Smith</i>, a Bookbinder, and his Wife <i>Bridget</i>, were about a
+Fortnight ago found hanging in their Chamber near their Bed-side, about
+three or four Feet Distance from one another; and in the next Room, their
+Daughter, who was but two Years old, was found shot thro’ the Head. There
+were three Letters left upon the Table, of which the following is the most
+material; and I send you a Copy of it, because it will let you into the
+<i>Stoic</i> Character of the <i>English</i> Nation. ’Tis directed to Mr.
+<i>Brindley</i>, a Bookbinder at <i>London</i>, in that which is call’d <i>New
+Bondstreet</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cousin</i> <span class="smcap">Brindley</span>,</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>‘These Actions, consider’d in all their Circumstances, being
+somewhat uncommon, it may not be improper to give some Account
+of the Cause, and that it was an inveterate Hatred we conceiv’d
+against Poverty and Rags; Evils, which through a Train of
+unlucky Accidents were become inevitable; for we appeal to all
+that ever knew us, whether we were either idle or extravagant;
+whether or no we have not taken as much Pains to get our Living
+as our Neighbours, altho’ not attended with the
+same<!--274.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>
+Success.</p>
+
+<p>We apprehend the taking our Child’s Life away to be a
+Circumstance for which we shall be generally condemn’d; but for
+our own Parts, we are perfectly easy upon that Head. We are
+satisfy’d it is less Cruelty to take the Child with us, even
+supposing a State of Annihilation, as some dream of, than to
+leave her friendless in the World, expos’d to Ignorance and
+Misery. Now in order to obviate some Censures, which may proceed
+either from Ignorance or Malice, we think it proper to inform
+the World, that we firmly believe the Existence of Almighty God;
+that this Belief of ours is not an implicit Faith, but deduced
+from the Nature and Reason of Things: We believe the Existence
+of an Almighty Being from the Consideration of his wonderful
+Works, from a Consideration of those innumerable celestial and
+glorious Bodies, and from their wonderful Order and Harmony. We
+have also spent some Time in viewing those Wonders which are to
+be seen in the minute Part of the World, and that with great
+Pleasure and Satisfaction, from all which Particulars, we are
+satisfied, that such amazing Things could not possibly be
+without a first Mover, without the Existence of an Almighty
+Being: And as we know the wonderful God to be Almighty, so we
+cannot help believing but that he is also good, not implacable;
+not like such Wretches as Men are, not taking Delight in the
+Miseries of his Creatures; for which Reason we resign up our
+Breaths unto him, without any terrible Apprehensions, submitting
+ourselves to those Ways, which in his Goodness he shall please
+to appoint after Death. We also believe the Existence of
+unbody’d Creatures, and think we have Reason for that Belief,
+altho’ we don’t pretend to know their Way of
+subsisting.</p><!--275.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span>
+
+<p>We are not ignorant of those Laws made <i>in Terrorem</i>; but leave the
+Disposal of our Bodies to the Wisdom of the Coroner and his
+Jury; the Thing being indifferent to us where our Bodies are
+laid: From whence it will appear how little anxious we are about
+a <i>Hic jacet</i>; we for our Parts neither expect, nor desire such
+Honours, but shall content ourselves with a borrowed Epitaph,
+<i>viz.</i></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">‘Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where we were born or bred, it matters not,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who were our Parents, or have us begot.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We were, but are not: think no more of us;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For as we are, so you’ll be turn’d to Dust.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>‘It is the Opinion of <i>Naturalists</i>, that our Bodies are at
+certain Stages of Life compos’d of new Matter, so that a great
+many poor People have new Bodies oftner than new Cloaths: Now as
+Divines are not able to inform us which of those several Bodies
+shall rise at the Resurrection, it is very probable, that the
+deceased Body may be for ever silent as well as any other.’</p>
+
+<div class="right" style="margin: auto;">
+Sign’d,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Richard Smith</span>.<br />
+<span class="smcap">Bridget Smith</span>.
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Coroner’s Inquest, after the usual Formalities, brought in their
+Verdict, whereby they declared <i>Richard Smith</i> guilty of that Crime, which
+they call in <i>England</i>, <i>Felo de se</i>, or Self-Murder; and of Wilful Murder
+as to his Child. <i>Bridget</i> was brought in a Lunatic, tho’ she had sign’d
+the Letter with her Husband, and
+acknowledged<!--276.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span>
+that she was equally
+concerned in the Murder of her Child; so that I think her Corpse deserved
+hanging, at least for a little while: And sure I am, that she would not
+have been found a Lunatic here.</p>
+
+<p>There being commonly some little Piece of Entertainment at the End of
+Tragedies, I am now to divert you with some such Farce. ’Tis the Adventure
+of a certain pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, with the Abbé <i>de Vayrac</i>, an
+Author, and a Man of<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a>Wit. Not many Days ago, as the Abbé was walking on
+Foot, he was overtaken with a Shower of Rain, which made him take Shelter
+under a Penthouse, at a Shop-door. At the same Time, who should pass by in
+a magnificent Coach, driving at a mad Rate, as if he would run over every
+Thing in his Way, but a Counsellor, whose furious Career was stopp’d all
+on a sudden, by something that broke his Harness! This Disaster happen’d
+just at the Place Where the Abbé <i>de Vayrac</i> stood, dress’d like other
+Authors, with an old tatter’d Hat upon his Head, and a shabby Cloak over a
+Coat quite thread-bare. The Thing that most diverted the Counsellor, was
+his Hat, and he order’d one of his Lacqueys to ask him, if it was not as
+old as the Battle of<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a><i>Rocroy</i>. You must know, the Lacqueys of this
+Country are more brazen-fac’d and insolent than
+they<!--277.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span>
+are any-where else;
+and the Counsellor’s discharg’d his Errand to a Tittle. M. <i>l’Abbé</i>, said
+he, in a Droll Tone, <i>my Master wants to know in what Battle your Hat
+receiv’d all those Wounds</i>. <i>At the Battle of</i> Cannæ, <i>Friend</i>, reply’d
+the Abbé; and then he laid on five or six heavy Blows upon the impudent
+Ambassador’s Shoulders with his <i>Cane</i>. The Counsellor, seeing his
+Domestic so soundly drubb’d, stepp’d instantly out of his Coach, and
+running to the Abbé, said, <i>What are you doing?</i> The Abbé reply’d very
+sedately, <i>I am chastising Insolence.</i> <i>Parbleu</i>, M. <i>l’Abbé</i>, said the
+Counsellor, <i>I think you are a pleasant Fellow to presume to strike a
+Servant of mine! Surely you don’t know me; for if you did, you would have
+more Respect for my Livery.</i> <i>Pardon me</i>, reply’d the Abbé, <i>I know you
+very well.</i> <i>And who am I?</i> said the Counsellor. <i>Why you are a Fool</i>,
+reply’d the <i>Abbé</i>; upon which the Gentleman thought fit to sneak off.
+This is a very true Story; for I had it from the Abbé <i>de Vayrac</i> himself,
+who told it to me with the same Gravity as he had answer’d the Counsellor.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ Lacqueys are not commonly the Subjects of Conversation, yet I think
+that those of <i>Paris</i> deserve some Notice. They form so considerable a
+Body, that there are many Kings who have not so numerous an Army. Besides,
+these Fellows make such extraordinary Fortunes, and often rise so quick
+from <i>Valets</i>, to be Masters and Gentlemen, that really they ought not to
+be confounded in the Lump with the <i>European</i> Lacqueys. Those of ’em who
+set up for fine Fellows, as many of ’em do, (for in the Livery of <i>Paris</i>,
+you meet with every Thing that is handsome and gay) such, I say, as are in
+the Service of some young Noblemen, are commonly Equals and Companions
+with their Masters. There are others who are the Darlings of the Fair Sex;
+and if Satire
+may<!--278.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span>
+be credited, and Appearances, perhaps, into the
+Bargain, there are Ladies even of the first Quality, who don’t always
+treat their Lacqueys like Servants. ’Tis true, they most commonly take
+them out of the Livery, and in order to bring them near their Persons,
+they make them their Pages, or <i>Valets de Chambre</i>. Nothing is thought too
+good for these Favourites of <i>Venus</i>; they are rigg’d out like Princes,
+and were you to see one of these fortunate Lacqueys, you would naturally
+take him for some Person of Consequence. And indeed, there are some who
+act the Man of Quality to such a Perfection, that nothing can exceed it;
+and they have often better Manners than their Masters. The Airs of
+Importance, and of Quality, are very natural to the <i>French</i>. There are
+others of the menial Class, that enjoy the Favour of their young Masters,
+in a Way so uncommon, that one knows not what to think of it; and many of
+those young Gentlemen, forgetting the Respect that is due to their own
+Persons, and their Families, make Parties at Supper with ’em, at which
+Time, I fansy, Conversation is the least Part of the Entertainment. But
+such is the Spirit of Debauchery, that it has infected the Generality of
+the young People at Court; tho’ ’tis true enough, that it ever was so.</p>
+
+<p>I don’t say that excessive Debauchery is the universal Goût of the Nation;
+for, on the contrary, the <i>French</i> are virtuous from the Cradle to the
+Grave, if they are but so happy as to get over the four or five Years of
+juvenile Fury, and to surmount the tumultuous Passions which their great
+Vivacity kindles in their Breasts, and prompts them to do Things at twenty
+Years of Age, which at thirty they detest and abhor; and I affirm of the
+<i>French</i> in general, that they are not vicious by Inclination. The
+Nobleman is infinitely more
+so,<!--279.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span>
+than the Bulk of the People; and whether
+it is bad Company, bad Counsel, or whatever else that misleads him, he
+thinks that to be debauch’d gives him a fine Air; and many of ’em really
+boast of being greater Deboshees, than in Fact they are.</p>
+
+<p>But this does not seem to me to be the Case of the Women (I mean of those
+who are not very rigidly attach’d to the Precepts of Virtue). They always
+preserve an Appearance of Decency, which imposes on such as don’t know
+them: Nor is their Conversation licentious; and if they are naughty, ’tis
+in private. ’Tis certain that our Countrymen don’t do the <i>French</i> Ladies
+Justice. Many of our young Fellows, when they come home from <i>Paris</i>,
+affecting to be Coxcombs, tell Stories so much to the Disadvantage of the
+Fair Sex, that most of the <i>German</i> Gentlemen, and especially of our
+Ladies, think the Reverse of what they ought to do. Virtue and Modesty are
+as eminent among the Sex here as elsewhere; and those Whifflers, that give
+themselves the Liberty of scandalizing them, very often know not how to
+call one Woman of Quality by her right Name, and even never saw her
+Antichamber. ’Tis certain, that there are Women of Quality here, who have
+laid aside the Mask; but of these there are so few, that the whole Sex
+ought not to be reproach’d for their Misconduct. I give you my Word and
+Honour, that there are fine young Ladies here, born to charm our Sex, whom
+Calumny itself is obliged to respect; and I don’t see what more can be
+desired. I’ll vouch the same for the young Gentlemen, of whom indeed, the
+greatest Number is very much debauch’d, but there are some that have not
+quitted the Reins of Modesty. A <i>Tremouille</i>, a <i>Luxembourg</i>, a
+<i>Boufflers</i>, and many more, may be set up as Examples
+to<!--280.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span>
+our Youth, who,
+perhaps, would be worse than the Youth of <i>France</i>, if they were enter’d
+as young into Company, and seated in the Centre of Joy and Pleasures. But
+I perceive, that instead of a Letter I am drawing a Case. Therefore here I
+drop my Brief, and think my Epistle long enough to be concluded. I am
+intirely Yours, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Paris, May 28, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I was puzzled some time ago, to think what could make the <i>French</i> forget
+Father <i>Girard</i> and <i>la Cadiere</i>, and the pretended St. <i>Paris</i>; for I
+apprehended, those two Articles would be the Subject of Conversation a
+great while longer; but I was mistaken: ’Tis all forgot; and there’s
+something now upon the Tapis, of quite another Kind.</p>
+
+<p>The Archbishop of <i>Paris</i> having thought fit to issue his Mandate for
+suppressing a certain printed Paper, intitled <i>Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques</i>,
+(a Sort of Ecclesiastical News-Journal) the Parliament of <i>Paris</i> was
+disgusted, and made an Arret, condemning the Archbishop’s Mandate. The
+Court took the Prelate’s Part, and declar’d all that was done by the
+Parliament upon this Occasion, null and void. The Parliament standing up
+mightily for its Privileges, which nevertheless it holds only by the good
+Pleasure of its Kings, discontinued its Assemblies, and the King was
+obliged to
+issue<!--281.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span>
+repeated Orders, before the Members would resume their
+Business. Mean time the <i>Advocates</i> and <i>Solicitors</i> have thought fit to
+espouse the Cause of the Parliament, and refuse to plead till the King has
+<i>done Justice</i> to the Parliament, (’tis their own Term) by preserving it
+in the Possession of Appeals against Incroachments; which it has really
+enjoy’d for many Years, and which is the Ground of the present Disputes.
+The Parliament say, that they are the more justifiable in supporting this
+antient Prerogative, because they are obliged to it in Conscience, and for
+the Welfare of the State committed to their Charge. For, say they, what
+would be the Consequence, were the Archbishop’s Mandate to be authorized?
+The Pope and the Bishops would, by Degrees, assume that Right which they
+pretend to, of pronouncing Excommunications for very trivial Causes, and
+even of putting the King himself under an Interdict, and consequently of
+usurping a Temporal Despotic Power under the Umbrage of their Spiritual
+Power, which, say the Parliament, is absolutely contrary to the Liberties
+of the <i>Gallican</i> Church; by Virtue whereof, ’tis sufficient for the
+Parliament alone, in the like Case, to stigmatize and condemn those
+<i>Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques</i>, as they have already done for a long Time.</p>
+
+<p>This is, in general, the Situation of Affairs, and the Substance of the
+Arguments made use of by the Parliament for the Maintenance of their
+Rights, which are stuff’d with Abundance of pompous Terms, such as the
+<i>Obligations of Conscience</i>, the <i>Liberties of the</i> Gallican <i>Church</i>, and
+a thousand such Expressions, with which the very Hawkers make your Ears
+ring as you go along the Streets. The Ladies too have for the present laid
+aside all the Jargon of Dresses, to learn that Language; and she who us’d
+to talk of
+Cornets<!--282.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>
+and Gorgets, now assumes the Style of an Advocate,
+pleads for <i>Gallican</i> Liberties, overturns the Church, and sends the
+<i>Sacred College</i> and the <i>Bishops</i> to the Gallies. In short, I can’t
+express to you, how ridiculous the <i>French</i> are in these Cases. Being fond
+of every Thing that’s new, be it good or bad, they catch at it blindfold;
+which is a plain Confirmation of the Inconstancy of these People, who are
+so fickle, that I verily believe, if any one should take a Fancy to preach
+<i>Mahometanism</i> to them, they would embrace it with their usual Levity.</p>
+
+<p>The following, my dear Friend, is a Piece of Poetry, which, I think, is
+good, and make no Doubt will please you. The Subject of it is, Christian
+Tranquillity. If I can pick up any Thing new for you, before I go hence, I
+will not fail to send it to you. I supp’d lately in a Place with M. <i>de
+Voltaire</i>, and another Poet, the latter of whom rehearsed a very pretty
+Piece to us, of which he refused to give us a Copy, pretending ’twas
+imperfect; but however, he has promised it to me. When I have it, I will
+send it to you.</p>
+
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 1em;">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" style="margin: auto; padding-left: 2em;">
+<tr><td align="left" style="width: 40em;">TRANQUILLITÉ CHRÉTIENNE.</td><td align="left" style="width: 40em;">CHRISTIAN TRANQUILLITY.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Surles les Disputes du Tems.</td><td align="left">On the Disputes of the Times.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Plein d’ignorance et de Miseres,</td><td align="left">Why wilt, audacious mortal Man,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux,</td><td align="left">So wretched, and so ignorant,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres</td><td align="left">On Mysteries dark and profound</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Porter un œil trop curieux!</td><td align="left">resume to cast an Eye too nice?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Toi, pour qui toute la Nature</td><td align="left">Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ne paroit qu’une Enigme obscure,</td><td align="left">But an impenetrable Riddle,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tu sondes les Divins Decrets?</td><td align="left">Pretend to fathom God’s Decrees?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tu croi que ton foible gênie</td><td align="left">Think’st thou thy feeble Genius can</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De l’Intelligence infinie</td><td align="left">The mighty Secrets e’er unfold</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pourra dévoiler les Secrets?</td><td align="left">Of infinite Intelligence?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><!--283.png--><span class="pagenum">280</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Crains les ténèbres respectables,</td><td align="left">Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Où Dieu cache sa Majesté;</td><td align="left">Where God his Majesty conceals;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De ses Desseins impénétrables</td><td align="left">For who the Veil can penetrate</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qui peut percer l’obscurité?</td><td align="left">Of his impenetrable Schemes?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mesure la vaste étendue</td><td align="left">Measure the vast immense Extent</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De ces Globes, qu’offre à la vue</td><td align="left">Of all those Globes that may be seen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Un tems serein et lumineux.</td><td align="left">In Weather most serene and bright.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mais arrête ici ton audace,</td><td align="left">But here thy fond Presumption check;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tu ne peux voir que la surface</td><td align="left">For thou nought but the Surface seest</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De ce Théatre merveilleux.</td><td align="left">Of this Theatre wonderful.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Où t’emporte l’ardeur extréme</td><td align="left">Where will thy furious Ardor stop,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De tout comprendre, et de tout voir?</td><td align="left">All Things to comprehend and see?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tu ne te connois pas toi-même:</td><td align="left">And know’st not what thou art</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">L’Esprit échape à son savoir;</td><td align="left">thyself,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Et la Raison impérieuse</td><td align="left">Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds:</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De la Grace victorieuse</td><td align="left">Will then imperious Reason dare</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Veut pénétrer la Profondeur!</td><td align="left">Presume to penetrate the Depths</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><span class="f">Paul</span>, tout rempli de sa Lumiere,</td><td align="left">Of all-victorious Grace Divine?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Nous apprend quelle est la maniere</td><td align="left">Great Paul, in whom its Light shone full,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Dont elle agit sur notre cœur.</td><td align="left">Explains to us the Manner how</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Grace operates upon our Hearts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Je sens en moi que la Nature</td><td align="left">I feel within, that Nature’s self</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Veut établir ma Liberté;</td><td align="left">To fix my Freedom makes Efforts;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Elle se plaint, elle murmure,</td><td align="left">And when her Power is controll’d</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Quand son pouvoir est disputé.</td><td align="left">She murmurs inward, and complains.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mais si j’interroge mon Ame</td><td align="left">But if my Soul I do but ask</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Comment une céleste flâme</td><td align="left">Which way a Flame celestial</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">La fait agir, la fait mouvoir;</td><td align="left">Induces it to act and move;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Je crains que cette Ame hautaine</td><td align="left">I fear this haughty swelling Soul</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ne donne à la puissance humaine,</td><td align="left">To human Power will ascribe</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir.</td><td align="left">That which to Pow’r Divine is due.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><!--284.png--><span class="pagenum">281</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Surpris de l’Intervalle immense</td><td align="left">Astonish’d at the Space immense</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qu’on voit de l’Homme au Créateur,</td><td align="left">Betwixt the Creature and Creator,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Si je n’admets une Puissance</td><td align="left">If I do not a Pow’r confess</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qui concourt avec son Auteur,</td><td align="left">Concurring with its Author,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ce n’est plus pour moi qu’un vain titre,</td><td align="left">Free Agency, or that Free-will</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre,</td><td align="left">Of which my Reason so much vaunts,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que ma Raison sais tant vanter:</td><td align="left">Is but for me an empty Plea:</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Je ne connois plus de Justice,</td><td align="left">That Justice I no longer own,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qui récompense et qui punisse,</td><td align="left">Which doth reward and punish too,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ce qui ne peut rien mériter.</td><td align="left">What strictly neither can deserve.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue</td><td align="left">Thus is my Soul held in Suspense</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Entre les Sentimens divers.</td><td align="left">Betwixt Opinions contrary.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Par-tout où je porte ma vue,</td><td align="left">Where-e’er my roving Eyes I turn</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Je vous des Abîmes ouverts.</td><td align="left">Abysses open to my View.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pour me garantir du naufrage,</td><td align="left">For fear of being cast away,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Je n’ose quitter le rivage;</td><td align="left">I dare not quit the Sight of Shore;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">La crainte assûre mon repos.</td><td align="left">And ’tis this Fear my Peace secures.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Combien, dans cette Mer profonde,</td><td align="left">How many, in this Ocean deep,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Flottant à la merci de l’onde,</td><td align="left">Floating at Mercy of the Waves,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Se perdent au milieu des flots?</td><td align="left">Are by those Waves immerg’d and lost!</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">De tant de disputes fameuses,</td><td align="left">Let us the dang’rous Tracks avoid</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Où nous embarque notre orgueil,</td><td align="left">Of those Disputes but too well known,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Fuyons les Routes dangereuse:</td><td align="left">In which our Pride engageth us:</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">L’Homme à Lui-même est un écueil;</td><td align="left">Man’s to himself a fatal Rock;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Dans le petis Monde sensible,</td><td align="left">For in this little World of ours</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Est un Dédale imperceptible,</td><td align="left">There is a Dadalus unseen,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Dont nous ignorons les Détours.</td><td align="left">Whose Windings are to us unknown.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">La Foi de notre sort decide:</td><td align="left">’Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Elle tient le fil qui nous guide;</td><td align="left">She holds the Thread which is our Guide;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Sans elle, nous errons toujours.</td><td align="left">Or else we always go astray.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><!--285.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Heureux le cœur simple et docile,</td><td align="left">Happy that honest docile Heart,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qui sans raisonner sur la Foi,</td><td align="left">Which without reas’ning about Faith</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Respecte dans nos Saints Conciles</td><td align="left">Our Holy Councils venerates,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Le sacré dépôt de la Foi;</td><td align="left">The Sacred Guardians of that Faith;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ne franchissant point la Barriere,</td><td align="left">And dares not climb o’er that Barrier.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que le Pere de la lumiere</td><td align="left">Fix’d by the Father of all Light</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Met aux vains efforts de l’esprit.</td><td align="left">Against proud Reason’s vain Efforts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">A quoi nos soins doivent-ils tendre?</td><td align="left">To what shou’d our Endeavours tend?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Est-ce à pratiquer, ou comprendre</td><td align="left">Is it to practice, or comprise</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ce que le Ciel nous a prescrit?</td><td align="left">The Things which Heaven has prescrib’d?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Laissons la Sagesse éternalle</td><td align="left">Let’s to Eternal Wisdom leave</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Disposer des cœurs à son gré:</td><td align="left">The sole Disposal of all Hearts:</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Il suffit à l’Homme fidelle,</td><td align="left">The true Believer is content,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que par lui Dieu soit adoré.</td><td align="left">That God by him shou’d be ador’d.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Qu’importe à ces Docteurs habiles,</td><td align="left">What do these cunning Doctors gain,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que par des Raisons trop subtiles</td><td align="left">Who by too subtle Arguments</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Un Système soit combattu?</td><td align="left">A System strive to overthrow?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que produit leur haute science,</td><td align="left">What does their Knowledge great avail,</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Si Dieu ne met dans la Balance</td><td align="left">If God but in the Balance cast</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Que l’Innocence &amp; la Vertu?</td><td align="left">Virtue and Innocence to turn the Scale?</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p>It were to be wish’d, that every <i>Frenchman</i> had the same Christian
+Tranquillity; for then they would not worry one another as they now do,
+nor would they give such a Scandal to <i>Europe</i>. But the Matter is push’d
+so far, that I don’t foresee how a Stop can be put to it. It will be
+always a Worm preying upon the Vitals of <i>France</i>, and a Bone of
+Contention between the Court and Parliament.</p>
+
+<p>Some Days ago, the Court banish’d the Abbé <i>Pucelle</i>, a Counsellor of
+Parliament. This Man is another <i>Broussel</i>, and I believe, he would be
+overjoy’d, if he could revive the ancient
+Barricades<!--286.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span>
+which were erected
+during the Minority of <i>Lewis</i> XIV. after the Queen Mother <i>Anne</i> of
+<i>Austria</i> had caus’d that same <i>Broussel</i> to be put under an Arrest. But
+as yet there does not appear to be so much Rout about the Abbé <i>Pucelle</i>,
+notwithstanding he made a very great Noise in Parliament. There he spoke
+like an Angel, and every body said he defended the Liberties of the
+<i>Gallican</i> Church so well, that nobody could do it better. Nevertheless, I
+am apprehensive, that he will be at a Loss how to vindicate his own
+Liberty; and I am very much mistaken, if he has not a Lodging at
+<i>Vincennes</i>, or the <i>Bastile</i>, before he dies. The Parliament leaves no
+Stone unturn’d, that he may be recalled; and will do no Business at all,
+till that dear Brother of theirs is restored. Mean time, all Affairs are
+at a Stand, by which private Persons are the Sufferers: And yet these very
+Counsellors, who make a Scruple of Conscience to register an Edict from
+the King, which infring’d the ancient Privileges of the Parliament, don’t
+care what becomes of poor Widows and Orphans, that languish for the Issue
+of a Process kept in Suspense by these Domestic Quarrels! In Truth, I
+cannot but admire the good Nature of the King, and the Moderation of the
+Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>. I am sure, that the Regent, and the Cardinal
+<i>Dubois</i>, would not have had so much Patience: For the former sent the
+Parliament to <i>Pontoise</i>, and caus’d the Members to be arrested and
+banish’d for a less Offence; and at the Time too, when the Parliament
+remonstrated against the Alteration of the Species, in which the Fortune
+of every <i>Frenchman</i> was concerned. Hitherto all the Representations of
+the Parliament for the Return of the Abbé <i>Pucelle</i>, have been of no
+Effect; and I fansy, that the first President will be forced
+to<!--287.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span>
+make
+another Trip to <i>Compiegne</i>, where the King has for some Time past
+resided<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>A Couplet has lately been made upon the Abbé’s Exile: I don’t remember the
+Beginning of it, but it ends thus;</p>
+
+<p><i>Que de bonnes gens vont pleurer!</i> <i>Que de filles vont crier</i>,
+<i>Rendez-nous</i> Pucelle, <i>ô gai</i>, <i>Rendez-nous</i> Pucelle!</p>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;"><i>i. e.</i></div>
+
+<p>How do the good Women lament! How do the Daughters cry, Give us back
+<i>Pucelle</i>, Give us back <i>Pucelle</i><a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>!</p>
+
+<p>You must allow the <i>French</i> are merry Mortals. Let what will happen,
+they’ll find something or other in it to divert them. Every thing is to
+them a Subject for a Song; and I remember to have heard of a Ballad they
+made and sung upon the Plague in <i>Provence</i>, in 1720. Mean time, these
+Jarrings between the Court and Parliament have absolutely effac’d the
+Memory of the blessed <i>Paris</i>. ’Tis true, he began to be out of Vogue,
+after the Court caus’d the Church-yard of <i>St. Medard</i> to be stopp’d up,
+where he lies interr’d. If this had been done at first, a great deal of
+Scandal would have been prevented. I am very sorry I can’t stay to see
+what will be the End of all these Things; but my Affairs call me to
+<i>Germany</i>, whither I propose to set out the first Opportunity; therefore
+write to me no more at present.</p>
+
+<!--288.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two Days ago, I saw such a Slur put upon the Charms of a young Lady, that
+she was thoroughly mortified. ’Twas the Marchioness <i>de R——</i>, one of the
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber. She has been us’d, for a long time, to daub her
+Face very awkwardly, with a great deal of White, Red, and Patches; but on
+that Day she out-did herself. She came into the Garden of the
+<i>Thuilleries</i>, on Purpose to be admir’d; for she has the Reputation of a
+very great Coquette: But she was hooted at by a great many smart Fellows
+that follow’d her, and gather’d all the Mob about her, so that the poor
+Lady was glad to retire; and being oblig’d to wait a little for her Coach,
+was very much hiss’d into the Bargain by those prodigal Puppies the
+Lacqueys; so that in my Life I never saw a Woman more run down.</p>
+
+<p>The same Night I supped with the Marquis <i>de L——</i>, whom I had never seen
+before. I was told by a certain Lady, That he ow’d his Fortune to an old
+Woman: For tho’ he was a Man of a good Family, yet, being a younger
+Brother, he was not rich. When he was twenty Years of Age, he pleased the
+Marchioness <i>de L——</i>, who was threescore and ten, to such a Degree, that
+she offer’d to marry him; and the Marquis, who was then but a plain
+Gentleman, did not want very much Intreaty to accept the Proposal; for
+tho’ he was a Man of a handsome Presence, he did not presume to think that
+any young Woman would fall in Love with him, who had one hundred and fifty
+thousand good Livres a Year to her Fortune, which was what the Marchioness
+really had to bestow upon whom she pleased. As the two Lovers return’d
+from the Church of <i>St. Sulpice</i>, where they were married, the Marchioness
+carried her Spouse to her own House; and leading him into an Apartment,
+<i>You need not be afraid, Sir</i>,
+said<!--289.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span>
+she; <i>don’t imagine that I married
+you to toy with. This is your Apartment; mine is on the other Side of the
+House. You shall lie here, and I’ll lie in my own Chamber. I was willing
+to make a Man of you, because I took you for a deferring young Fellow: But
+this I could not do, without taking you to be my Husband; and I had rather
+it should be said, that I am an old Fool for marrying a young Fellow, than
+to give any Colour for reporting, that I keep you in Pay. ’Tis more
+honourable both for you and me, that we are married; for now I can do what
+I please for you without the Censure of the Public. This, too, is what I
+have resolv’d on; and as I have no Relations, you may depend upon it, that
+all I have in the World will be one Day or other your own. All the
+Acknowledgment I desire of you, is some little Share in your Respect, and
+I am persuaded you are too much of a Gentleman to use me ill.</i> Judge you
+how much the Marquis was surprised, at a Speech which he so little
+expected. He was ready to fall at the Feet of his Bride, and to give her
+Proofs of his Ecstasy of Love, when she push’d him from her, and said,
+<i>None of these extraordinary Fits, I beseech you, Sir; let us live
+together like Friends: All the rest is superfluous.</i> In short, she gave
+him to understand, ’twas her absolute Determination, that he should never
+think of her as his Wife. The Marquis was obliged to comply; and after
+having liv’d thus in perfect Harmony for seven Years, the Lady died, and
+left her Husband Heir to all her Estate.</p>
+
+<p>The young Fellows undoubtedly stand the best Chance for the great
+Fortunes. I had Engagements here, when I was but twenty-two Years of Age,
+with an old Lady too, but she was not altogether to disinterested as the
+Marchioness <i>de L——</i>; for tho’ she was kind to me, she obliged me to a
+great deal of Duty. This Lady of mine was forty Years older than myself;
+yet<!--290.png--><span class="pagenum">287</span>
+what with Patches, and the Red and the White, her Charms were renewed
+every Day to such a Degree, that ’twas well I was twenty-two Years of Age,
+or else they would have frightened me. But fourscore thousand Livres a
+Year, which I always kept in View, made me take that for natural, which
+was only artificial; insomuch that if I had been put to my Oath, I know
+not whether I should not have sworn that my superannuated Mistress was but
+in her Teens. We lived a couple of Years together very lovingly. The Lady
+happened to have two Sons living, old enough both of ’em, to be my
+Fathers; yet she did not despair of having another Brood. For this End she
+proposed Matrimony to me, and I freely consented. But my Sons-in-law <i>in
+futuro</i>, being advertised, by whom I know not, where I had appointed a
+Meeting with their Mother, came and fell at her Feet, and conjured her not
+to wrong them and their Children, (for they were both married) by marrying
+me. The Lady was stagger’d in her Resolution, and was just going to
+promise her Sons, that she would not have me; when I came to her in the
+Nick of Time, and so encouraged her by my Presence, that she got the
+better of her Weakness.</p>
+
+<p>Mean time, the Sons sprung a new Mine, which answered their End. Their
+Mother was a Coquet, but one of the pious Sort, and devoted that Time to
+God, which she did not spend with me, or at her Toilet. The Sons detached
+a Priest of <i>St. Sulpice</i> to her. The holy Man chose his Opportunity when
+I was abroad. I did not foresee, that a Blow would come from such a
+Quarter; or else the <i>Swiss</i>, and all her Domestics, being my Creatures, I
+could easily have kept him out of the House. He discharged his Commission
+so effectually, that he prevailed to have
+the<!--291.png--><span class="pagenum">288</span>
+Signing of the Marriage
+Articles, which were to have been executed the very next Day, put off for
+three Months longer. I was not very much chagrin’d when I heard this News;
+for I confess, I flatter’d myself, that ’twas not possible for the Lady to
+escape me. By the Description I have given you of my Sweetheart, you will
+imagine that I was not over Head and Ears in Love. Whatever Scruple the
+Priest of <i>St. Sulpice</i> had raised in her, she carried it to me the same
+as ever: We still liv’d very lovingly together, and I had considerable
+Presents made to me, which I squandered away as fast as I received. At the
+same Time, I did not dare to mention any Writings for my Security; and to
+talk to a Mistress of threescore Years and ten, about making her Last Will
+and Testament, was, I thought, a strange kind of Courtship, and the Way to
+spoil all.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, this Misfortune fell upon me, when I least of all expected
+it. As I went one Morning into my Dear’s Chamber, I found her at her
+Toilet, complaining of a great Pain in her Head. She told me, That she was
+in a sad Quandary too, because she had invited People to Dinner, but was
+not in a Condition to keep them Company; and she desired me, therefore, to
+do them the Honours of her House: But I prevailed with her to send Word to
+those whom she had invited, that she was ill, and that she should be glad
+to see them another Time. I then left her, with a Promise to come back and
+dine with her; and having taken a Walk, I returned accordingly; when I
+found her dress’d more gay than usual. She told me, that a Dish or two of
+Coffee had quite remov’d her Head-ach, and that she had trick’d herself up
+to please me. We din’d together, but she eat very little, and began very
+soon to complain again;
+so<!--292.png--><span class="pagenum">289</span>
+that I made her lie down upon the Bed, and
+taking a Book in my Hand, I sat down by her to read, while she rested: But
+all on a sudden, I felt her lay hold of my Hand, and as I turned about to
+her, my Mistress gave my Hand a Squeeze, and that Instant expir’d. I
+called for Help, and both Surgeons and Physicians came, by whose Order she
+was blooded; but ’twas to no Purpose: For <i>there’s no returning from the
+Shore of the Dead</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This Accident so surprized me, that I did not so much as think of securing
+my own Effects; but went into my Room, and presently I was given to
+understand, that one of the Sons of the Deceased was come with an Officer
+to seal up all her Effects. I did not in the least oppose it, nor, indeed,
+had I any manner of Title to dispute it. But my Good-nature only made the
+Son the more insolent; for he even came into my own Apartment, to seal up
+such Effects as belong’d to me. I told him, that if he did not withdraw, I
+would make my Servants, and those of the Deceased, who had all a Respect
+for me, turn him out. During this, the late M. <i>de N——</i>, a Counsellor of
+Parliament, who was very much my Friend, came to see me, who advised me to
+quit my Quarters with all Speed, and to pack up every Thing that belong’d
+to me immediately. He also offer’d me Room in his House for my Furniture,
+and other Effects; which Offer I accepted, and in a few Hours every Thing
+of mine was clear’d off of the Premises. The Sons, after this, threaten’d
+to enter an Action against me; but as they had no Proof of any Thing that
+I ow’d to their Mother, they did not presume to molest me. If I had been
+of the Temper then, that I am now, I should not have so soon forgot the
+Loss I suffer’d; for, besides a good She-Friend, which is
+a<!--293.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span>
+rare and
+precious Thing, I lost the Hopes of a splendid Fortune.</p>
+
+<p>I know not how it came into my Head, to entertain you with my <i>quondam</i>
+Amours. But ’tis a Vein of Prating which I am indulg’d in, more by you
+than by any body. Farewel, my Dear, you will hear no more of me about this
+Country, for I am preparing to quit it the very first Opportunity.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Brussels, June 4, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When I left <i>Paris</i>, I kept on the Pavement all the Way to Chantilly,
+which may pass for the finest Seat in the Kingdom, since the great
+Additions made to it by the Duke of <i>Bourbon</i>, who is the Lord of it. The
+Forest likewise, of <i>Chantilly</i>, is as fine as any thing that ever Art and
+Nature form’d. ’Tis a magnificent Palace, the Stables are stately, and the
+Park is adorned with the finest Pieces of Water in the World. <i>Lewis</i> XIV,
+who was always very desirous of being the Master of this House, wanted to
+purchase it of the late Prince. The latter made Answer to him, That it was
+at his Service, only he begged him, he would make him the Keeper of it
+from that Moment. The King perceived, that the Prince resigned it to him
+with some Reluctance, and therefore spoke no more of it.</p>
+
+<!--294.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Duke <i>de Bourbon</i>, who is certainly the richest Prince in <i>Europe</i>,
+that is not a Sovereign, lives very much at <span class="smcap">Chantilly</span>, since he is no
+longer in the Ministry. There is always a very numerous Court, and he
+lives there more like a King, than a Prince of the Blood.</p>
+
+<p>After having walked sufficiently about <i>Chantilly</i>, I went and lay at
+<i>Senlis</i>, and next Day arrived in good Time at <span class="smcap">Cambray</span>, a City famous upon
+several Accounts; but its Beauty does not answer its Reputation.
+<i>Cambray</i>, the Capital of the <i>Cambresis</i>, was formerly an Imperial City,
+and its Archbishop was a Sovereign and Prince of the Empire. <i>France</i>
+having seized <i>Cambray</i>, there remains nothing more to the Archbishop, of
+so many fine Prerogatives, but the empty Title of a Prince of the Empire;
+which he still retains, tho’ he has no Vote nor Session at the Diet. Since
+1712, that I came for the first Time into <i>France</i>, the Church of
+<i>Cambray</i> has had four Archbishops. I then found the See possessed by the
+Illustrious <i>Francis de Salignac de la Mothe Fenelon</i>, Preceptor of the
+late Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, Father of <i>Lewis</i> XV. He had for his Successor
+<i>John d’Estrées</i>; but the latter died before he had taken Possession of
+the Archbishoprick. The celebrated Cardinal <i>Dubois</i> succeeded to him; but
+he did not enjoy that Dignity long, for he died at <i>Versailles</i> the 10th
+of <i>August</i> 1723. The Abbé <i>de S. Albin</i>, the natural Son of the Duke of
+<i>Orleans</i>, the Regent, was appointed Archbishop of <i>Cambray</i> at an Age
+when he had need of Dispensations from <i>Rome</i>, to qualify himself for that
+Dignity.</p>
+
+<p>I think ’twill not be impertinent to make some little mention of the
+Cardinal <i>Dubois</i>, and, perhaps, you will not be sorry to hear a few
+Particulars of him. In the first Place, these were his Titles; William
+<i>Cardinal</i> Dubois, <i>Priest
+Archbisho<!--295.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span>p
+and Duke of</i> Cambray, <i>Prince of
+the Holy Empire, Count of the</i> Cambresis, <i>Abbat of</i> St. Just de Nogent
+<i>under</i> Couffy, <i>of</i> Bourgueil, Airvaux, Cercamps, St. Winoxberg, <i>and</i>
+St. Bertin <i>of</i> St. Omer; <i>Principal and Prime Minister, and Secretary of
+State for Foreign Affairs</i>; <i>Great Master and Superintendant General of
+the Couriers, Posts and Relays of</i> France; <i>one of the forty Members of
+the</i> French <i>Academy and that of the Belles Lettres</i>: <i>And chose by the
+Prelates and other Deputies at the General Assembly of the Clergy of</i>
+France, <i>to be their first President</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal <i>Dubois</i> was not of extraordinary Extraction, but was born
+with great Talents, and an uncommon Genius. He was Preceptor to the Duke
+of <i>Orleans</i>, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; which was the Reason that
+the Prince and he were so well acquainted with each other’s Thoughts, that
+the least Sign given by the One, was understood by the other. The Abbat
+<i>Dubois</i> was employed in the Negociations of Peace in <i>England</i>, and at
+<i>Utrecht</i>. When the Duke of <i>Orleans</i> came to be Regent, he sent him to
+take care of the King’s Interests at the Court of King <i>George</i> I. of
+<i>Great Britain</i>; with whom he concluded the famous Treaty of the Quadruple
+Alliance. When the King came of Age, the Regent being desirous to have a
+first Minister that he could confide in, chose the Abbat <i>Dubois</i>, whom he
+first made an Archbishop, and then obtain’d a Cardinal’s Hat for him. ’Tis
+said, that the Cardinal was beginning to forget his Obligations to his
+Benefactor, and thinking to shake off all Submission to him, when he died
+at <i>Versailles</i>, after having enjoyed his splendid Fortune but a few
+Years. His Illness was of no long Continuance, but very painful. <i>La
+Peyrome</i>, the King’s chief Surgeon, made an Operation upon him for a
+Disorder<!--296.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span>
+which the Cardinal’s Enemies ascribe to his Incontinence, before
+he was Archbishop. He dreaded the Operation very much, and was loth to
+undergo it, tho’ the Surgeons assured him, that nothing else could save
+his Life. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, to whom the Minister’s Life was dear,
+made use of his Authority, and obliged the Cardinal to submit to the
+Operation, which did not answer his Royal Highness’s Hopes; for in a few
+Days after it, his Favourite died. The Eagerness with which the Duke of
+<i>Orleans</i> seized the Ministry, confirmed the Public in their Opinion, that
+the Cardinal had entertained a Thought of asserting his own Independency.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal was not much lamented; for he was blunt, violent and
+outrageous; which was not the Way to acquire the Good-will of a Nation,
+which loves that Decency and Politeness should be kept up in every Thing.
+Satire, or, if you please, Calumny, gave it out, that the Cardinal was
+married at <i>Tours</i>, when he was made Archbishop, and that his Wife liv’d
+in that City; that he gave it in Charge to M. <i>de Breteuil</i>, the Intendant
+of <i>Tours</i>, to prevail upon her, if possible, not to discover that she was
+his Wife; but that she refused to relinquish the Advantage; that thereupon
+M. <i>de Breteuil</i> sent for the Parish Register where the Marriage was
+solemnized, and tore out the Leaf in which their Names were entered; and
+that the Woman was going to make a great Noise, but was threatened with
+Confinement, and by that Means obliged to be silent.</p>
+
+<p>I will not engage for the Truth of all, or any Part of this Story; but
+’tis what the scandalous Chronicle has given out, and what has reach’d
+even to <i>Rome</i>; so that when it was told to the late Pope, with a great
+many other Passages concerning the Cardinal, he was heartily vexed, that
+he<!--297.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span>
+had advanced him to the Purple; and I have been assured, that it was
+such a Grief to the Holy Father, that it help’d to shorten his Days.</p>
+
+<p>The Duchess <i>de F——</i> was with the Cardinal one Day, when being in one of
+his sullen Moods, his Eminency, in plain Terms, bade her <i>go and pick
+Violets</i>. The Lady complaining of him to the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, the
+Regent, the Prince made Answer, <i>You are much in the right</i>, Madame; <i>the
+Cardinal</i> Dubois <i>is a Brute, but, nevertheless, he has a good
+Head-piece</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This Cardinal made a Compliment of much the same Nature to the Cardinal
+<i>de Noailles</i>, who telling him one Day as he came from an Audience of the
+Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, That the said Prince would not give Ear to his
+Representations, but bade him <i>go and —— himself</i>, you understand the
+rest; the Cardinal <i>Dubois</i> made Answer, <i>And really, Brother, the best
+Thing your Eminency can do, is to obey</i>.</p>
+
+<p>These Stories put me in mind of another that was current all over <i>Paris</i>,
+a little after the Cardinal <i>Dubois</i> was advanced to the Purple. The
+Lacqueys of these two Cardinals happening to be at a certain Place
+together, they had a Dispute about their Master’s Pre-eminency. <i>Our
+Master</i>, said the one, <i>is the oldest Cardinal, Duke and Peer, and a
+Commander of the Kings Orders</i>. The others said, <i>Ours is a Prince of the
+Empire, Duke of</i> Cambray, <i>and Prime Minister</i>. <i>Ours</i>, replied the
+former, <i>consecrates Bishops; therefore, to be sure, he has the Preference
+above the Cardinal</i> Dubois—— <i>A very pretty Argument this!</i> said one of
+<i>Dubois’s</i> Lacqueys, <i>Why, if there’s any thing in Consecration, my Master
+is the greater Lord, in that respect too: For yours may consecrate
+Bishops, but mine consecrates G-d every Day of his Life.</i> And, indeed; if
+the Fellow meant his Master’s Swearing by all that’s
+Sacred,<!--298.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span>
+he was not
+in the wrong; for the Cardinal had a very bad Habit of Swearing, like any
+Grenadier.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal left no great Estate behind him; and whether it was owing to
+his Disinterestedness, or to his want of Time to amass Wealth, his Fortune
+being but of a short Duration, his Heirs had not much Reason to rejoice at
+his Death. The Duke of <i>Orleans</i> soon forgot him, and nothing preserved
+his Memory so long in <i>France</i> itself, but certain Satires and Epitaphs
+made upon him by the Wits; which might have been transmitted, perhaps, to
+Posterity, if there had not been too much Gall in them. The Cardinal
+<i>Dubois</i> lies interr’d in the Church of <i>St. Honore</i>, where his Brother
+was a Canon. This Clergyman set up a Marble Tomb for him, where the
+Cardinal is represented on his Knees, inclin’d towards the Altar of the
+Choir, but his Head seems to turn from it; upon which the Critics remark,
+that he durst not, since his Death, look towards what he had profan’d in
+his Life.</p>
+
+<p>The Cardinal <i>Dubois</i> obtained in Favour of <i>Cambray</i>, that the Congress
+should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor
+and <i>Spain</i>. The <i>French</i> made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how
+much it was to the Honour of the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, that all the Powers of
+<i>Europe</i> should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his
+Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of
+<i>Soissons</i>. <i>They are come</i>, said the Court-Flatterers, <i>into our own
+Country, to desire Peace of us</i>. They were not so modest as the Allies
+were heretofore; for when <i>Lewis</i> XIV. sent his Ambassadors to <i>Aix la
+Chapelle</i>, <i>Nimeguen</i>, <i>Ryswic</i>, <i>Gertruydenberg</i>, <i>Utrecht</i>, <i>Rastadt</i>,
+&amp;c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the
+<i>French</i> always said, <i>That they gave Peace
+to</i><!--299.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span>
+<i>Europe</i>. Be this as it
+will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses
+that were held in their Country; which tho’ both were opened with a World
+of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of <i>Vienna</i>, concluded
+the 19th of <i>April 1725</i>. O. S. put a Period to the <i>Cambray</i> Congress;
+the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to
+nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the
+maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron <i>de Ripperda</i>,
+afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of <i>Spain</i>, and also Prime Minister
+to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so
+tir’d with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of <i>Cambray</i>, that he went to
+<i>Vienna</i>, with the Name of the Baron <i>de Puffenberg</i>, and established so
+strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was
+never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House
+of <i>Austria</i> possessed the Throne of <i>Spain</i>. This very much eclipsed the
+Glory of the Congress of <i>Cambray</i>, and the Congress of <i>Soissons</i>
+received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of <i>Seville</i>.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Cambray</i>, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in <i>French
+Flanders</i>, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The
+Governor of it is the Prince <i>de Tingry</i>, who is the Son of the famous
+Duke <i>de Luxembourg</i>, the Marshal of <i>France</i>; whose Honour our Writers
+have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence
+with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means.
+The Prince <i>de Tingry</i> distinguished himself very much during the last
+War, by the Name of the Chevalier <i>de Luxembourg</i>. He contributed a great
+deal to the Support of <i>Lisle</i> when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy
+of Powder into
+it<!--300.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span>
+in the Night-time. He is look’d upon by all the
+Officers, as one of the chief Generals in <i>France</i>. Considering his Birth,
+Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the
+Marshal’s Staff a long time ago; and ’twas thought he would have been
+included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>. He is
+now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his
+Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours
+to myself.</p>
+
+<p>Mons, the Capital City of <i>Hainault</i>, is not so large a City as
+<i>Valenciennes</i>, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a
+<i>French</i> Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke
+<i>d’Aremberg</i> is Governor both of this City, and of <i>Hainault</i>, of which he
+is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at <i>Brussels</i>, and never comes
+into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This
+Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and
+Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of <i>Hainault</i>, and of the City of
+<i>Mons</i>, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the
+Halbardiers of the Emperor’s Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he
+received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King <i>Charles</i>
+II. after his Father had been killed in <i>Hungary</i>. He is the only Nobleman
+in all the <i>Netherlands</i>, that has recognized the House of <i>Austria</i>
+alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late
+Marquis <i>de Grana</i>, Governor of the <i>Netherlands</i>, prevented him from
+engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the
+Advantages<!--301.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span>
+that
+were offered to her on the Part of <i>Philip</i> V. After the <i>Netherlands</i>
+were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of
+<i>Ramillies</i>, the Duchess <i>d’Aremberg</i> and her Son were the first to
+acknowledge King <i>Charles</i> III. The Son had a <i>Flemish</i> Regiment in that
+Prince’s Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under
+my Lord <i>Marlborough</i>. ’Twas under him and Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i>,
+that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his
+Valour, but particularly at the Battle of <i>Belgrade</i>. ’Tis certain, that
+if the Duke had stay’d longer at <i>Vienna</i>, he would have had some
+important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for
+a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders
+a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince <i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i>
+lov’d and esteem’d him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to
+improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of
+<i>Brussels</i>, to the Tumult of the Court of <i>Vienna</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I don’t mention the Battle of <i>Malplaquet</i>, which was fought in the
+Neighbourhood of <i>Mons</i>; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure,
+have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of
+upon other Occasions.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Mons</i> to <i>Brussels</i>, there’s a famous Causey. We pass thro’ <i>Halle</i>,
+whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and
+has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the
+House of <i>Austria</i> have made great Presents.</p>
+
+<p>The City of <span class="smcap">Brussels</span> is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is
+the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally
+old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house,
+there is
+not<!--302.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span>
+a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience
+of <i>Brussels</i>, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and
+down-hill; so that if it was as large as <i>Paris</i>, it might truly be called
+the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care
+taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter’d with Dirt, or
+choak’d with Dust.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious
+Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look
+like those of the Palace of <i>Priam</i>: Why they are not removed, I know not.
+The Archduchess, Governess of the <i>Netherlands</i>, lives in the Palace of
+<i>Orange</i>, belonging to the Prince of <i>Nassau</i>, the Hereditary Stadtholder
+of <i>Friesland</i>. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness
+prefers it to the Palace of <i>Egmont</i>, the Apartments of which are more
+spacious and commodious, tho’ ’twas offered her by the Duke <i>d’Aremberg</i>,
+who is the Proprietor of it.</p>
+
+<p>This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which
+was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were
+preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give
+the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the
+Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it
+without any Noise, but it mastered them. ’Twas four Hours, however, before
+it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the
+Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had
+been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion,
+and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such
+Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the
+Soldiers pushed off such
+Burghers<!--303.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span>
+as offered to come near, so that the
+whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle;
+for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when
+she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant,
+her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a
+Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment
+that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog,
+and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in
+her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to
+retire to the House of the Prince <i>de Rubempré</i>, her Master of the Horse,
+whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed
+to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so
+much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which
+they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for
+<i>Rubempré’s</i> House was so near her own, that ’twas fear’d the Fire would
+have reach’d it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of
+<i>Orange</i>, then occupied by the Count <i>de Visconti</i>, the Grand Master of
+her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess <i>de Rubempré</i> furnished
+her with Stockings, and the Countess <i>de Visconti</i>, with Shifts and other
+Apparel; and ’twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended
+from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the
+Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the
+Plate.</p>
+
+<p>Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary
+Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually
+encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily
+grieved her, was the
+unhappy<!--304.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>
+Fate of Mademoiselle <i>d’Uhlefeldt</i>, Lady of
+the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This
+unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by
+the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was
+snatch’d as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched
+from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the
+Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy
+the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her
+Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The
+whole Court was charm’d, to see with what Resignation she bore her
+Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God
+had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness
+honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be
+performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at
+which all the Nobility of <i>Brussels</i> was present, and every Soul was sorry
+for the Loss of her.</p>
+
+<p>In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess’s
+Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a
+Gold Toilet, were missing.</p>
+
+<p>The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor’s three Sisters. She is
+jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and
+majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but
+with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into
+the <i>Netherlands</i>, as she parted thro’ <i>Louvain</i>, she returned an Answer
+in <i>Latin</i>, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that
+Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine
+Sciences; and without flattering
+her,<!--305.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span>
+she may be said to be a Mirror of
+Virtue and Piety. ’Tis impossible for any one living to be more
+charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the
+Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour
+at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a
+Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she
+bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her
+most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that ’tis no manner of
+Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.</p>
+
+<p>The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at
+<i>Vienna</i>. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies
+wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her,
+and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least
+Disgust with any of her Domestics.</p>
+
+<p>Her Second in Affairs is the Count <i>Don Julio Visconti</i>, by Birth a
+<i>Milanese</i>, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity
+and Sincerity, impossible to be byass’d by any thing but Justice, a good
+Œconomist, and always disinterested. Tho’ the People of this Country are
+not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they all
+agree, that M. <i>de Visconti</i> is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is
+pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of
+Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to
+every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, <i>Henry Crumpipen</i> by
+Birth a <i>Westphalian</i>, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He
+is good-natur’d, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an
+extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is
+universally
+beloved<!--306.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span>
+here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt
+as his Master.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Visconti</i> is lately appointed Viceroy of <i>Naples</i>, and is to be
+relieved here by the Count <i>Frederik de Harrach</i>; who is not only a Person
+of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a
+Person of Quality. He was at <i>Cambray</i> during the Congress, where, tho’ he
+had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the
+Emperor’s Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to
+him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor’s
+Affairs at the Court of <i>Turin</i>, From thence he was recalled, and sent
+Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of <i>Bohemia</i>, and first
+Secular Elector, to the Diet of <i>Ratisbon</i>; which Post he is quitting, in
+order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess.
+I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the <i>Flemings</i>; for he is
+affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves
+Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his
+Wife, who is a Princess of <i>Lichtenstein</i>, he is in a Condition to please
+the People of<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a><i>Brussels</i>, who expect their Ministers, <i>&amp;c.</i> to lay out
+a great deal of Money with ’em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of
+<i>Maximilian Emanuel</i> the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>, because that Prince
+expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from
+<i>Bavaria</i>. <i>The Archduchess</i>, say the People of <i>Brussels, spends nothing,
+and her Court is rather a Convent</i>; yet if they considered that this
+Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred
+thousand Florins
+Revenue,<!--307.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span>
+they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their
+Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her
+most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well,
+and keeps out of every body’s Debt; which is what can’t be said of any
+Governor or Sovereign of the <i>Netherlands</i>, who always went away from
+these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make
+Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to
+every single Native of <i>Brabant</i> or <i>Flanders</i>, there would be very few
+that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master
+would suit them best: For, since the Death of <i>Charles</i> II. King of
+<i>Spain</i>, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight
+or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one
+that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count <i>de Daun</i>, now
+Governor of <i>Milan</i>, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding
+the Marquis <i>de Prie</i>, whose Recal every body desired, as to the
+advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.</p>
+
+<p>The Court of <i>Brussels</i> is really not the most inviting Court in the
+World. The Ceremonial at <i>Vienna</i> is observed here almost in every thing.
+The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege
+of eating with her; only the Duke of <i>Lorain</i> was indulg’d that Liberty,
+but ’twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as
+they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i> came hither with
+the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from <i>France</i>, he said <i>’Twas
+very comical, that he who lay every Night with an</i> Archduchess <i>at</i>
+Munich, <i>could not have the Pleasure of dining with an</i> Archduchess <i>at</i>
+Brussels.</p>
+
+<p>The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose
+Husbands
+are<!--308.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span>
+Grandees of <i>Spain</i>, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of
+being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but
+they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged,
+that the other Governesses of the <i>Netherlands</i> had granted them this
+Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not
+Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to
+the Ceremonial of the Court of <i>Vienna</i>, where all Ladies, Princesses as
+well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim’d the
+Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually
+presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better
+instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and
+told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to
+come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and
+for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at
+Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were
+apprehensive of an Order from <i>Vienna</i>, they came to Court again, and now
+do as they ought.</p>
+
+<p>The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are
+some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many,
+who, tho’ they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to
+prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they
+were all heretofore Counts of <i>Hainault</i>, <i>Flanders</i>, Dukes of <i>Brabant</i>,
+<i>Guelderland</i>, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important
+Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve,
+it is in <i>Spain</i> or <i>France</i>. <i>To go to</i> Vienna, <i>to make Court to the
+Emperor! oh fy!</i> say they, <i>’tis fatiguing
+to</i><!--309.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span>
+<i>Death. The Manners of the
+Germans are so different</i>, proceed they, <i>from ours; their Service is so
+unpolite! To be confined in that Place called</i> Hungary! <i>don’t mention it
+to us. There’s not a Mortal to converse with</i>. These Gentlemen, after all,
+have Reason on their Side: For many of ’em, tho’ they have never served
+the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to
+Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the
+<i>Netherlands</i>; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to
+blame to act otherwise. They serve in <i>Spain</i>, and come to <i>Brussels</i> to
+receive their Reward.</p>
+
+<p>It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho’ few of the <i>Flemings</i>, under
+whom I generally include all the Subjects of the <i>Austrian Netherlands</i>,
+go to <i>Vienna</i>, ’tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The
+Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they
+live therefore with very great Œconomy, like private People. They seldom
+make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of ’em keeps an open Table. Yet
+there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in <i>Vienna</i>
+itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of <i>Spain</i>,
+formerly assumed only the Title of <i>Excellency</i>; but since they have been
+under the <i>German</i> Government, they are called <i>my Prince</i>, and
+<i>Monsieur</i>. They would fain usurp the Title of <i>Highnesses</i>, which is
+given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it
+with abundance of <i>Monseigneurs</i>. The Duke <i>d’Aremberg</i> is the only
+Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho’ he is the
+Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brussels</i> is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of
+<i>la Tour</i> and <i>Taxis</i>,
+Hereditary<!--310.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span>
+Post-master of the Empire, and the
+<i>Netherlands</i>. When this Nobleman is at <i>Brussels</i>, he lives with very
+great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality,
+and ’tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess <i>de la Tour</i>, who is a
+Princess of <i>Lobkowitz</i>, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and
+gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons
+of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a>. The Natives have a
+Regard for the Family of <i>la Tour</i>, but ’tis attended with Envy. The
+Prince <i>de la Tour</i>, tho’ not a Sovereign, is nobly ally’d. His Mother was
+a <i>Furstenberg</i>: His Wife is a <i>Lobkowitz</i>: His Son is married to a
+Princess of <i>Brandenbourg-Culmbach</i>; and his Daughter to the Prince
+<i>Alexander</i> of <i>Wurtemberg</i>: So that all who question the Antiquity or
+Nobility of the Family of <i>la Tour</i>, are, I think, very much in the wrong.
+I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho’ those of <i>la
+Tour</i> have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity
+of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the <i>Torres</i>, who were so
+long at Variance with the ancient <i>Viscontis</i>. And I can’t help thinking,
+that a Family, which has been ally’d for many Generations with the
+greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been
+a <a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>Canon or Count of the
+Cathedral of <i>Cologn</i>, may be rank’d among our best Families in <i>Germany</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the Ladies, the Princess <i>de la Tour</i> is most distinguished by the
+Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very
+natural: For the Princess <i>de la Tour</i> was born
+at<!--311.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span>
+<i>Vienna</i>, and, as it
+were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted
+are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess <i>de la Tour</i>
+discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that ’tis not surprising
+that she should honour her with her Confidence.</p>
+
+<p>I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of <i>Brussels</i> are not
+very gay, and I’ll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull
+Taste. There’s a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is
+horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so
+when the Countess <i>de Visconti</i> is gone, since, were it not for that Lady,
+there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw <i>Brussels</i> in the Time
+of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing
+falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace,
+Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very
+great Perfection. <i>Lenir</i>’s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest
+for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes <i>England</i> and <i>Italy</i> with
+it. <i>Devos</i>, who works for <i>Germany</i>, made the fine Tapestry of Prince
+<i>Eugene</i> of <i>Savoy</i>, and the History of <i>Charles</i> V. for the Emperor
+<i>Charles</i> VI. <i>Vermillon</i> sends a great many of his Works to <i>Portugal</i>,
+<i>France</i>, and <i>Muscovy</i>. <i>Van der Borg</i> the Son has lately made a fine
+Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the <i>Israelites</i>
+worshipping the Golden Calf, and <i>Moses</i> receiving the Tables of the Law.
+The Father of <i>Van der Borg</i>, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has
+made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent
+the joyful Entry of <i>Philip the Fair</i>, Duke of <i>Brabant</i>. They are in the
+Town-house, and worth seeing.</p>
+
+<p>Here lives the Marshal <i>de Zumjungen</i>, who commands the Emperor’s Troops
+in this
+Country.<!--312.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span>
+He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised
+by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a>. He is
+descended of an ancient <i>Patrician</i> Family of <i>Francfort</i>, and professes
+the <i>Lutheran</i> Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has
+gone thro’ all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great
+Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners
+very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary
+Expence.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor of <i>Brussels</i> is the Marshal <i>de Wrangel</i>, a venerable old
+Man, and much respected. He is a <i>Sweed</i>, and, like M. <i>de Zumjungen</i>, has
+gone thro’ all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very
+rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good
+Table.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince <i>de Rubempré</i> is of the Family of <i>Merode</i>, one of the most
+distinguished in the <i>Netherlands</i>. He is Master of the Horse to the
+Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman,
+and one of the richest in the <i>Low Countries</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince of <i>Nassau</i> is Captain of her most Serene Highness’s Band of
+Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. <i>Hubert</i>. He is the younger
+Brother of the Prince of <i>Nassau-Siegen</i>, who, after the Death of
+<i>William</i> III. King of <i>Great Britain</i>, assumed the Title of Prince of
+<i>Orange</i>; which he still goes by in <i>Spain</i>, where he is a Pensioner to
+the King. The Prince of <i>Nassau</i>, of whom I here make mention, was also
+formerly in the Service of <i>Spain</i>. He married the Sister of the Marquis
+<i>de Nesle</i> in <i>France</i>, and went some
+Years<!--313.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span>
+ago into the Service of the
+Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but
+his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he
+holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the
+Golden Fleece.</p>
+
+<p>I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of <i>Flanders</i>, a Country so
+well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are
+continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to
+you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial
+Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have
+the Honour to be, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLV.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Liege, June 28, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From <i>Brussels</i> I went to <span class="smcap">Ghent</span>, the Capital City of the County of
+<i>Flanders</i>, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of <i>Mechlin</i>.
+The <i>Scheld</i> passes thro’ the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided
+into several Islands by the <i>Lys</i>, and a great Number of Canals. ’Tis very
+large in Circumference, insomuch, that ’tis reported, the Emperor
+<i>Charles</i> V. us’d to say, <i>That he could put</i> Paris <i>into his</i> Gand<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>.
+This might be true enough then, but now <i>Ghent</i>
+might<!--314.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span>
+easily be contained
+in <i>Paris</i>, because, like all the Towns in the <i>Netherlands</i>, it is
+decay’d, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The
+Citizens of <i>Ghent</i> were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most
+notable Revolt they ever made, was from <i>Charles</i> V. for which they were
+severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their
+Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed
+through <i>France</i> to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused
+twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a
+greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away
+their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a
+Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a
+Citadel; by which Means <i>Ghent</i> became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of
+its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.</p>
+
+<p>The Fortifications of <i>Ghent</i> consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp,
+broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it
+very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place:
+Nevertheless, I have heard that King <i>William</i> of <i>England</i>, used to say,
+that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep
+<i>Ghent</i> than <i>Brussels</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I have done nothing at <i>Ghent</i> but sauntered about the Streets. I have
+been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some
+of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron
+<i>de Stein</i>, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of <i>Portugal</i>, a
+Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle <i>de
+Watteville</i>, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess,
+Governess of the <i>Netherlands</i>. She is a Lady worthy to
+be<!--315.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span>
+respected, and
+is esteemed by all <i>Ghent</i>. What Amusements there are in this Town, I
+cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no
+Pleasures here but what must be insipid.</p>
+
+<p>I went in the Bark along the Canal from <i>Ghent</i> to <i>Bruges</i>, which is the
+most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a
+good Room, and with Company very happily mix’d. At Noon we had a Dinner
+served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at <i>Brussels</i>;
+where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. ’Tis a Rule in this Bark, for
+the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts
+pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of
+Women on Board; and the <i>Flemish</i> Women are, for most part, good Topers of
+the Juice of the Grape.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bruges</span> in the County of <i>Flanders</i> stands in a great Plain, three Leagues
+from the Sea, upon the Canal of <i>Reye</i>; which being divided into several
+navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes
+to <i>Ostend</i>, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to <i>Bruges</i>
+of four hundred Tons. ’Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho’ ’tis
+considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at
+<i>Antwerp</i>, and in <i>Holland</i>; notwithstanding which, <i>Bruges</i> is still one
+of the biggest and best Cities in <i>Flanders</i>. Here are magnificent
+Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and
+open, with several large Squares, and there’s no want of Inhabitants; but
+they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. ’Tis a hard matter for
+a Foreigner to get acquainted with ’em; for the <i>Flemings</i> are naturally
+unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a
+<i>German</i>. When the Count <i>de Lalaing</i>,
+formerly<!--316.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span>
+the Viscount of
+<i>Audenarde</i>, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of
+being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at
+<i>Brussels</i>. And, as I don’t care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately
+to <span class="smcap">Ostend</span>.</p>
+
+<p>This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three
+Months, again <i>Albert</i> Archduke of <i>Austria</i>; and for the <i>India</i> Company
+established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all <i>Europe</i>,
+however, agreed to get revoked. <i>Ostend</i> never was a Town of much Note for
+Pleasures. ’Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable
+that belongs to the Emperor in <i>Flanders</i>. Its Situation renders it very
+strong: ’Tis encompass’d with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks,
+and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due
+Repair. If the <i>Ostend</i> Company had continued, this would certainly have
+been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every
+Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For <i>Holland</i> and
+<i>England</i> swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the
+<i>Netherlands</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Newport</span>, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than <i>Ostend</i>.
+’Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify’d, and can lay the Country
+under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a
+Degree, that there’s never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one
+time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid
+unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the
+Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to
+do with their Time.</p>
+
+<p>As I left <i>Newport</i>, I returned to <i>Ghent</i>, and went to <span class="smcap">Courtray</span>, over one
+of the finest
+Causeys,<!--317.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span>
+with Trees on both Sides, that is in all
+<i>Flanders</i>. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in
+Holland, and damask’d Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its
+Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a
+Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.
+<i>de Devenish</i>, an <i>Irishman</i>, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals. The
+second is M. <i>Dickson</i>, a <i>Scotsman</i>, who has a Colonel’s Commission, and
+is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he
+is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons
+of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to
+Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the
+Collegiate Church of <i>St. Mary</i> consists of true Priests, who rail at one
+another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house,
+where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I
+dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly,
+as to squeeze the Breath out of one another’s Bodies.</p>
+
+<p>I proceeded over a fine Causey to <span class="smcap">Menin</span>, one of the Barrier Towns
+belonging to the Emperor, with a <i>Dutch</i> Garison. The Count<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a><i>de Nassau
+Laleck</i>, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the
+<i>Dutch</i> Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this
+Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier
+Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor,
+and also to the States General his Masters. But I can’t imagine how he
+would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
+<!--318.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span>should
+break out between the Emperor and <i>Holland</i>. I think this Oath may
+be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the
+<i>Bucentaur</i> at <i>Venice</i>, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring
+her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. <i>Menin</i> is one of the
+most regular Fortifications in <i>Flanders</i>. M. <i>de Vauban</i>, by whom they
+were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that
+the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill
+defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there
+was no Breach made in it. The <i>French</i> Commandant, when he surrendered it
+to the Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>, having demanded Leave to march out of the
+Breach, was answered, That ’twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless
+he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the
+Gate. There’s no Company at <i>Menin</i>, but Mademoiselle <i>de Laleck</i>, and
+some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lisle</span>, the Capital of <i>French Flanders</i>, is as gay, populous and trading a
+City, as the Towns of <i>Imperial Flanders</i> are declining. ’Tis a large,
+fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav’d. It
+has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which
+discover its Riches. There’s a new Town-house building here, in a bad
+Situation; but when finish’d, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke <i>de
+Bousslers</i>, whose Father acquir’d great Glory by his vigorous Defence of
+<i>Lisle</i>, is Governor of this City, and of <i>French Flanders</i>. He is a fine
+handsome young Nobleman, tho’ of an under Size. He applies very much to
+the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in
+that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body
+speak<!--319.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span>
+well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I
+found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and
+amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too
+liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to <i>France</i> would wish all
+her young Noblemen were like to him.</p>
+
+<p>There are several good Houses in <i>Lisle</i>, particularly that of Madame <i>de
+Mouchi</i>, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late
+Duchess of <i>Berry</i>; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the
+Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there’s abundance
+of good Company. The <i>French</i> Officers make a much better Appearance than
+ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another
+upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In
+Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living
+here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.</p>
+
+<p>You know that <i>Lewis</i> XIV. took <i>Lisle</i> from the <i>Spaniards</i>. The Allies
+retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the
+Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the
+King of <i>Poland</i>, the Electoral Prince of <i>Hanover</i>, now the King of
+<i>Great Britain</i>, and the late Landgrave of <i>Hesse Cassel</i>, puts one in
+Mind of the Siege of <i>Troy</i>. <i>Lisle</i> was restored by the Treaty of
+<i>Utrecht</i> to <i>France</i>, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded <i>Ypres</i>
+and its Chatellany to the Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there’s a Concourse to it
+from all <i>Imperial Flanders</i>, because of the Profit to be made by the
+Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and
+embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
+<!--320.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span>delighted
+here, and if my Affairs had not call’d me back to <i>Germany</i>, I
+should have stay’d here some time longer.</p>
+
+<p>I return’d again thro’ <i>Ghent</i>, and from thence went to <i>Antwerp</i>,
+surnam’d the <i>Trading</i>; for you must know, that all the Towns in the <i>Low
+Countries</i> have Surnames: Thus, <i>Brussels</i> is called the <i>Noble</i>, <i>Ghent</i>
+the <i>Great</i>, <i>Louvain</i> the <i>Wise</i>, <i>Mechlin</i> the <i>Genteel</i>, <i>Namur</i> the
+<i>Strong</i>; and so of the rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Antwerp</span>, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in <i>Europe</i>,
+stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the <i>Scheld</i>. Our
+Lady’s Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is
+worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which ’tis adorned. The
+Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller’s Attention.
+This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening
+in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in
+Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their
+Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by <i>Rubens</i>, and two very magnificent
+Chapels, are still to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The Foundation of <i>Antwerp</i>, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of
+<i>Alva</i>, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil
+Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Antwerp</i> is very much fallen from what it was once. ’Twas formerly a City
+of the greatest Trade in <i>Europe</i>; but <i>Amsterdam</i> is risen upon its
+Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. <i>Antwerp</i> is
+incomparably better situate than <i>Amsterdam</i>, and the largest Vessels came
+to it heretofore by the <i>Scheld</i>; but this River is now choak’d up by
+Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
+<!--321.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span><i>Dutch</i>,
+those charitable Neighbours of the <i>Netherlands</i>.
+Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely
+rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac’d and
+embroider’d Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to
+the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at
+<i>Quadrille</i>, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There’s a charming
+Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend
+there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that
+is to be seen out of <i>Italy</i>, but no Play. So that, take it all together,
+you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.</p>
+
+<p>The Marquis <i>de Rubi</i>, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals, is Governor of
+<i>Antwerp</i>. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his
+House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he
+appears with Dignity. He is a <i>Catalan</i>, and was Viceroy of<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a><i>Sardinia</i>,
+when the <i>Spaniards</i> made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of
+Cardinal <i>Alberoni</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of <i>Antwerp</i>; from whence I
+went to <span class="smcap">Mechlin</span>, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth
+seeing. The Cardinal <i>de Bossu</i>, Brother of the Prince <i>de Chimay</i>, is its
+Archbishop, and the only one in the <i>Netherlands</i>, belonging to the House
+of <i>Austria</i>. You know, that at <i>Mechlin</i> is held the Sovereign Council or
+Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and
+Solicitors here, and hears so
+many<!--322.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span>
+of the Quirks of the Law. There are
+few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.</p>
+
+<p>The Causey between <i>Mechlin</i> and <i>Louvain</i> is a new Piece of Work. Before
+this was cast up, the People of <i>Mechlin</i> were obliged, in the
+Winter-time, to go thro’ <i>Brussels</i>, in order to avoid the bad Roads,
+which was a great Way about.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Louvain</span> is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students,
+Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I
+only pass’d quite thro’ the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and
+I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are
+the most unpolish’d of all the <i>Netherlands</i>. One of the grand Privileges
+of the University of <i>Louvain</i>, is a Nomination to a great Number of
+Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of
+the <i>Netherlands</i>, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence,
+that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments
+they have no Knowledge. Mr. <i>Strickland</i>, by Birth an <i>Englishman</i>, and
+Bishop of <i>Namur</i>, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair
+determined at <i>Rome</i>. But I’ll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more
+than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.</p>
+
+<p>There’s a very good Pavement from <i>Louvain</i> to <i>Tirlemont</i>, which is a
+Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so
+that I brush’d thro’ it, and went and lay at <span class="smcap">Maestricht</span>, one of the best
+and strongest Places in <i>Europe</i>, belonging to the <i>Dutch</i>; to whom
+<i>Spain</i> abandoned it by the Peace of <i>Munster</i>. The <i>French</i> Army took it
+in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The <i>Dutch</i>
+Propriety in it was recogniz’d by the
+Peace<!--323.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span>
+of <i>Nimeguen</i>, and they
+maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince <i>William</i>
+of <i>Hesse Cassel</i>, Brother to the King of <i>Sweden</i>; but since the Death of
+the Landgrave of <i>Hesse</i>, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the
+said Landgraviate, resides no longer at <i>Maestricht</i>; which is a Loss to
+this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv’d with all the Dignity
+answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during
+his Absence, is the Brigadier<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> <i>d’Amerongen</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Walks about <i>Maestricht</i>, especially those on the Ramparts, are
+charming; for there’s no want of good Company, and ’tis the genteelest of
+all the Garisons that belong to the <i>Dutch</i>. ’Tis a very pretty Town, with
+beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well
+as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is
+remarkable in all the Towns of <i>Holland</i>. The <i>Maese</i> passes thro’ this
+Town, and over it there’s a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured
+for a Truth, the late Marshal <i>d’Auverquerque</i>, when a young Man, leaped
+his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle <i>de Feldtbruck</i>, how
+sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and
+Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked
+upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did
+not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the
+Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to
+keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade
+with him to
+the<!--324.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span>
+Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he
+reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his
+Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.</p>
+
+<p>I stay’d a few Days at <i>Maestricht</i>, which City put me in Mind of my
+Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector <i>Frederic</i> of
+<i>Brandenbourg</i>. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new
+Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion
+wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for
+him.</p>
+
+<p>The City of <span class="smcap">Liege</span> is about five Leagues from <i>Maestricht</i>. A Vessel goes
+thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so
+rapid as the <i>Maese</i>, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is
+what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.</p>
+
+<p>The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that <i>Liege</i> was built by
+that <i>Ambiorix</i> King of the <i>Eburons</i>, a great Enemy of the <i>Romans</i> who
+cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of <i>Cæsar’s</i>
+Lieutenants; for which Affront, <i>Cæsar</i> afterwards took a sweet Revenge.
+But be this as it will, ’tis certain that <i>Liege</i> is a very ancient City.
+’Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley,
+encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro’
+which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the <i>Maese</i>, which passes
+thro’ the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. <i>Lambert</i>, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of
+Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are
+included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or
+<i>Tressonciers</i>, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the
+Doctor’s<!--325.png--><span class="pagenum">322</span>
+Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will,
+comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of <i>Germany</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of <i>Liege</i> is ancient. It has large
+Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not
+airy enough<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a>. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of
+<i>Berg</i>. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector
+of <i>Cologne</i>, and the Cardinal of <i>Saxe Zeits</i>; but he had the good Luck
+to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased
+with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs
+with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of
+very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his
+Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always
+distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a
+<i>Capuchin</i> to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father
+was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to
+their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This <i>Capuchin</i> Minister died without
+being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince’s Domestics. He is
+succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another <i>Capuchin</i>; but his
+Authority is more limited.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at
+<i>Serai</i>, a Country House a small League from <i>Liege</i>, on the Banks of the
+<i>Maese</i>, towards <i>Huy</i>, where he has seldom any body with him but his
+Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber.
+His Table is not so sumptuous as ’tis elegant; his Liveries are very
+modest, his
+Guards<!--326.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span>
+but few, and cloath’d exactly alike. He has rais’d a
+Regiment of Guards, of which the Count <i>de Beaufort</i>, Brother to the
+Governor of <i>Charleroy</i>, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the
+old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has
+been intirely ruin’d and demolish’d, since it was besieg’d and taken by my
+Lord <i>Marlborough</i>. ’Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the
+Citadel of <i>Liege</i> shall not be rebuilt.</p>
+
+<p>You know, that the Episcopal See of <i>Liege</i> was formerly at <i>Tongres</i>; of
+which, they say, that <i>Maternus</i>, sent by St. <i>Peter</i>, was the first
+Bishop. The See was transferr’d by his Successors, first to <i>Maestricht</i>,
+and then to <i>Liege</i>.</p>
+
+<p>There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love
+Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and
+have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. <i>Paul’s</i>
+Church here would be admir’d, even in <i>Rome</i> itself. Divine Service is
+perform’d in it with very great Regularity; and ’tis impossible not to be
+edify’d by it, the <i>Roman</i> Ritual being observed in every Particular.</p>
+
+<p>The Pleasures of <i>Liege</i> consist very much in Drinking, for there’s little
+Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the
+Tavern, where there are good <i>Bar</i> and <i>Burgundy</i> Wines, and a sort of
+Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of <i>Liege</i>
+go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great
+Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies
+commonly end like the <i>Italian</i> Comedies. The <i>Liegeois</i> are accused of
+being insincere, and are called, <i>the</i> Italians <i>of the</i> Netherlands. They
+drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are
+Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so
+vindictive,<!--327.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span>
+that they think any sort of
+Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that
+the Country of <i>Liege</i> alone furnishes the Chamber of <i>Wetzlar</i> with more
+Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever
+conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none,
+whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho’ I shall ever esteem the
+honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter
+not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the <i>Liegeois</i>,
+who appeared to me such as I have describ’d them; and if I wrong them, I
+ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases,
+and for my own part, I shall be overjoy’d to hear of any Merit found among
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The Country of <i>Liege</i> is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except
+Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron
+and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth
+proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable,
+because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the <i>English</i>
+Coal, and renders <i>Liege</i>, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as
+<i>London</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who
+are not always of the Prince’s Opinion. In this Country are reckon’d fifty
+Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall’d Towns, and near
+fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.</p>
+
+<p>I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at <i>Spa</i>, where I
+hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours,
+<i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--328.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Cologn, July, 13, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Road from <i>Liege</i> to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place
+itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are
+not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil
+myself with the <i>English</i>, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which
+they have at <i>Bath</i> and <i>Tunbridge</i>, to go to those of the <i>Spa</i>. Here are
+several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all
+Distempers. That of <i>Poubon</i>, which is in the Middle of the Square of
+<i>Spa</i>, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every
+Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the
+human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the <i>Geronstere</i>, which
+must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from <i>Spa</i>, in a
+little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the
+Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the <i>Geronstere</i> Spring
+is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which
+Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name.
+The Physicians and Inhabitants of <i>Spa</i>, good People, consulting their own
+Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely,
+that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks
+successively;<!--329.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span>
+which Precepts the <i>English</i> follow very readily, and even
+go beyond them. I knew a young <i>Irishman</i>, who for three Years fansied
+himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the <i>Spa</i>. He
+would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He
+complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look’d very well, eat
+heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at <i>Spa</i>, I
+thought myself at <i>London</i>, there being ten <i>Englishmen</i> to one Foreigner.
+I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away <i>Spa</i> from
+the Bishop of <i>Liege</i>. I was overjoy’d to renew my Acquaintance there with
+Persons of good Families, whom I had known at <i>London</i>. Tho’ I am
+extremely prepossessed in Favour of <i>England</i> and <i>Englishmen</i>; yet I
+cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and
+more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.</p>
+
+<p>In my Road from <i>Spa</i> to <i>Aix la Chapelle</i>, I came to <span class="smcap">Limbourg</span>, the
+Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital
+in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one
+of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it
+was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred
+Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has
+a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants
+are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal
+of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great
+Vend in the <i>Netherlands</i>, and at <i>Frankfort</i> Fair; where a great many
+Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of <i>Holland</i>, and even of
+<i>England</i>. The Road from <i>Limbourg</i> to <i>Aix la Chapelle</i>, which
+is<!--330.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span>
+four
+Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks
+and Mountains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Aix la Chapelle</span>, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to
+<i>Charlemagne</i>, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say,
+that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by
+the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. <i>Charlemagne</i>
+caused his Son <i>Louis the Pious</i> to be crowned there, by <i>Hildebold</i>,
+Archbishop of <i>Cologne</i>; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors
+crowned in <i>Aix</i>. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given
+an Instrument to the City of <i>Aix</i>, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church
+of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be
+of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.</p>
+
+<p>The Annals of <i>Aix</i>, among several other miraculous Events, report, That
+during the Coronation of <i>Rodolph</i> I. there appeared a great bright Cross
+over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice
+which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given
+them by <i>Albert the Great</i>, of the <i>Dominican</i> Order, Bishop of
+<i>Ratisbon</i>, and <i>Rodolph</i>’s Confessor. When the Electors were going to
+take the Oath of Fidelity to <i>Rodolph</i>, according to Custom, the Sceptre
+which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon <i>Rodolph</i>, who
+did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the
+Altar: <i>See</i>, (said he to the Electors, who stood round <i>Charlemagne</i>’s
+Chair, in which <i>Rodolph</i> sat) <i>see the Signal of that by which we and all
+the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the
+Sceptre.</i> Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the
+Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the
+Oath, and paid Homage with
+their<!--331.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span>
+Hands crossing each other. I forgot to
+tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this
+Transaction, tho’ white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to
+the Emperor <i>Rodolph</i>, he said, <i>If God gives me Life, I will go beyond
+Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my
+Saviour</i> Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his
+pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but
+it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count <i>de Hapsbourg</i>, he
+met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a
+Person that was sick, and that <i>Rodolph</i>, such was his Devotion for the
+Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest
+upon it, using this Expression, <i>That it should never be said, that the
+Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he</i>,
+Rodolph, <i>sate on Horseback</i>. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal
+of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be
+chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest
+Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed
+<i>Rodolph</i>’s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of <i>Austria</i>,
+that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it;
+<i>Charles</i> VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the
+<i>Romans</i>, who are descended, without Interruption, from the <i>Rodolphin</i>
+Line.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of <i>our Lady</i> is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope <i>Leo</i>
+III. in Presence of the Emperor <i>Charlemaign</i>, and as many Bishops
+attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt,
+a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a
+Thing happened very surprising
+and<!--332.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span>
+extraordinary; to which you may give
+as much, or as little Credit as you please. ’Tis, that God, in order fully
+to answer <i>Charlemagne</i>’s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of
+Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. <i>Monulphus</i>, and St.
+<i>Gondulphus</i>, Bishops of <i>Tongres</i>, who had been both dead a long time,
+and buried in the Church of <i>St. Servais</i>, at <i>Maestricht</i>, to appear
+visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope’s
+Blessing; after which they vanish’d. But I think, without pretending to
+dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they
+ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than
+the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to
+doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of <i>St. Servais</i> at <i>Maestricht</i>, I
+saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in
+the Language of <i>Brabant</i>, signifying, Monulphus <i>and</i> Gondulphus, <i>arise,
+and go to the Consecration of the Church of</i> Aix: And upon their Tomb
+there is this <i>Latin</i> Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to
+the Church at <i>Aix la Chapelle</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Excitus bâc arcá</i> Monulphus, <i>Aquisque dicato</i> Gondulphus <i>Templo se
+reddit uterque Hierarcha.</i></p>
+
+<p>After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must
+be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to
+give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady’s
+Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great
+Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from
+all Parts, and particularly from <i>Hungary</i>; but as they are then only
+exposed from the Top of a
+Steeple,<!--333.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span>
+the poor Creatures have only the
+Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having
+been regaled by the City of <i>Aix</i>, most of ’em return Home, without being
+able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is
+the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord.
+Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the
+People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form
+of one of those Proclamations.</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 1em 1em;">At the first <span class="smcap">Relique</span>.</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the
+Holy Virgin <span class="f">Mary</span>, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the Holy
+Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth <span class="f">Jesus Christ</span>, Very
+God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God, that we may look
+upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that the Honour and
+Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we may obtain his
+Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
+</div>
+
+<p>The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.</p>
+
+<p>In the Church of <i>Aix</i>, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of
+Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider’d with Pearls, and other
+sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which
+<i>Charlemaign</i> sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. ’Tis
+of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold;
+but what’s become of ’em, I know not. ’Tis in this Chair that the King of
+the <i>Romans</i> goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here
+the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go
+and<!--334.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span>
+make their first
+Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the <i>Romans</i>. The High Altar, and
+the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a
+great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given
+by St. <i>Henry</i> of <i>Bavaria</i>, the second Emperor of the <i>Romans</i> of that
+Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church’s
+Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.</p>
+
+<p>The Citizens of <i>Aix</i>, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which
+was held afterwards at <i>Soissons</i>, caused their Town-house to be repaired;
+so that ’tis now one of the finest in <i>Germany</i>. They also built new
+Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome
+Appearance. <i>Aix</i>, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and
+there’s very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season;
+but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess
+<i>de Golstein</i>, and the Baron of <i>Dobelstein</i>, are of great Relief. The
+last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been
+a General Officer in the Service of <i>Joseph Clement</i>, Elector of
+<i>Cologne</i>; and having served in <i>France</i>, the last War, with Reputation.
+He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there’s none of more
+agreeable Accommodation than <i>Aix</i>; the Lodgings and Provisions here being
+perfectly good. There’s the House of <i>Bougir</i>, near the <i>Fountain</i>, where
+the late King of <i>Denmark</i>, the Queen, the Princess, and all their
+Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well
+furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season,
+hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.</p>
+
+<!--335.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From <i>Aix la Chapelle</i>, I came in less than a Day to <i>Cologne</i>, thro’ a
+very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one
+ascends going out of <i>Aix</i>. I passed thro’ <span class="smcap">Juliers</span>, the Capital of a Duchy
+of that Name, upon the little River <i>Roer</i>, which is very subject to
+overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that <i>Julius Cæsar</i>
+caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to
+<i>Drusus</i>. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either.
+There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I
+thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or
+Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, ’tis to be hoped, is in a better
+State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the
+General <i>Haxhausen</i>; whose House is, I think, the best in all <i>Juliers</i>.
+The <i>Roman</i> Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the
+<i>Lutherans</i> and <i>Calvinists</i> have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place;
+and ’tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches
+in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the
+Elector <i>Palatine</i>; after whose Death, ’tis hardly supposed that the King
+of <i>Prussia</i> will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just
+Pretensions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cologne</span> is the greatest City in <i>Germany</i>, but the saddest in <i>Europe</i>.
+There’s nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be
+seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song.
+The People of <i>Cologne</i> boast, that <i>Agrippina</i>, the Mother of <i>Nero</i>, was
+born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal
+Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its
+Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran <i>Romans</i>. ’Twere to
+be wish’d, that
+this<!--336.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>
+Empress was still living, and that she would take it
+into her Head to people <i>Cologne</i> again, where there are really more
+Houses than Families. For ’tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a
+whole House to himself.</p>
+
+<p>If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number
+of Churches, those of <i>Cologne</i> would be the greatest Saints upon Earth;
+for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year.
+The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle
+St. <i>Peter</i>. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most
+magnificent Buildings in <i>Europe</i>; but in its present Condition, it does
+no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in
+<i>Germany</i>; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who
+must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some
+Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than
+the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were
+brought to <i>Cologne</i>, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the
+City through a Gate towards the <i>Rhine</i>, which was walled up, as soon as
+the sacred Reliques had pass’d, that nothing might profane it. The
+Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of
+<i>Cologne</i> have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it
+would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a
+Company of the Burghers.</p>
+
+<p>The Nobility and Gentry at <i>Cologne</i> are as polite as they are elsewhere;
+but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient <i>Patrician</i>
+Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the
+old <i>Romans</i>,
+as<!--337.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span>
+the Duke <i>de Ventadour</i> in <i>France</i> does, that he is a
+Kin to the Holy Virgin.</p>
+
+<p>The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City;
+nevertheless, the Elector of <i>Cologne</i> holds the Supreme Court of Justice
+here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no
+manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared
+among the <i>Patricians</i> or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses,
+and shun the Nobility, as do all the <i>Patricians</i> of <i>Germany</i>. There are
+very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The
+Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in
+<i>Cologne</i>, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of
+’em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired,
+they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are
+Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and
+drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have
+not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our <i>Germanic</i>
+Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.</p>
+
+<p>There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City,
+particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into
+the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day
+before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in <i>Misson’s</i><a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a>
+Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen <i>Mary de
+Medicis</i> lodg’d, while she liv’d here, and where she died in a Condition
+so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human
+Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal <i>de Richelieu</i>, on whom she had heap’d
+<!--338.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span>Riches
+and Honour, not content with having banish’d her out of the
+Kingdom, abandon’d her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv’d
+in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the
+Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal <i>Mazarin</i>, his Successor in the
+Ministry, retir’d likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of
+<i>France</i> was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat
+it.</p>
+
+<p>I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have
+seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It
+maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the
+Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all
+Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because
+when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged
+to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search’d, and every thing
+turn’d topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of
+putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put
+all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to
+drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you
+shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ
+from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct
+Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of
+the Public.</p>
+
+<p>There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the
+City. They go to Church at <i>Mulheim</i>, a Village in the Country of <i>Berg</i>,
+about half a League off.</p>
+
+<!--339.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I set out To-morrow for <i>Bonn</i>, where the Elector is expected every Hour.
+He comes from <i>Mergendahl</i>, where he has been elected Grand Master of the
+<i>Teutonic</i><a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> Order, tho’ the Pope thought
+he<!--340.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span>
+had Benefices enough
+before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time,
+and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him
+in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don’t think there’s any Harm in the
+Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of ’em; which is a Thing that
+cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my
+next, what I think of this Prince’s Court. In the mean time, and always, I
+am with the most perfect Esteem, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Bonn, July 30, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As I came to <span class="smcap">Bonn</span>, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that
+time to walk about. This City stands upon the <i>Rhine</i>, five Leagues from
+<i>Cologne</i>; from whence one travels to it thro’ one of the finest Roads in
+the World, well-pav’d and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain,
+encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very
+ancient, that <i>Florus</i> tells us ’twas founded by <i>Drusus</i>. The Learned
+say,
+’tis<!--341.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span>
+the <i>Ara Ubiorum</i> of the Ancients, mention’d by <i>Tacitus</i>. Be
+this as it will, <i>Bonn</i> has not the least Monument that favours of the
+<i>Roman</i> Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at
+all, when the Court is not there. ’Twas heretofore very well fortify’d,
+and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by <i>Frederic</i>
+Elector of <i>Brandenbourg</i>, afterwards King of <i>Prussia</i>, who besieged it
+at the Head of his own Troops, and those of <i>Munster</i> and <i>Holland</i>; and
+lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all <i>French</i>
+Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary
+manner; for, being just come out of <i>France</i>, with a Spirit of Hatred and
+Revenge against <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of <i>Nantes</i>, had
+forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as
+were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every <i>Frenchman</i> that
+was a Catholic, being odious to them. <i>St. Bonnet</i>, their commanding
+Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the
+Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice
+to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of
+it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well ’twas his Due, but
+that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great
+Esteem. <i>St. Bonnet</i> said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation
+to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all
+Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure
+him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of
+Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to
+continue always near his Person. <i>St. Bonnet</i>, ambitious of Glory, and,
+perhaps, hurry’d by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector’s
+<!--342.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span>Commands,
+and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days
+after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.</p>
+
+<p>During this Siege, <i>Bonn</i> was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce
+a House was left standing; for the Baron <i>d’Asfeldt</i>, who commanded in the
+Place for <i>Lewis</i> XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a
+Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.</p>
+
+<p>This City was again besieg’d in 1703, by my Lord Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>,
+who obliged the Marquis<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> <i>d’Alegre</i>, now Marshal of <i>France</i>, to
+capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of
+<i>Utrecht</i>, that the <i>Dutch</i> should keep Garison in <i>Bonn</i>; but the Elector
+<i>Joseph Clement</i>, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn
+them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own
+Territories.</p>
+
+<p>This same Prince, at his Return from <i>France</i>, found his capital City in a
+sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy’d in the last Siege, were not
+yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair
+of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old
+Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and
+built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of
+the most considerable Structures in <i>Germany</i>, if it had been brought to
+Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish’d, has spacious
+Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn’d, and nobly furnish’d. The
+Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth
+seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord’s
+Nativity; which is
+wonderfully<!--343.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span>
+well designed; and they may be reckon’d
+the Master-pieces of the <i>Gobelins</i>, where the Elector <i>Joseph Clement</i>,
+caused them to be made.</p>
+
+<p>The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded
+by St. <i>Helena</i>, the Mother of the Emperor <i>Constantine</i>, to the Honour of
+the Holy Martyrs <i>Cassius Florus</i>, and <i>Malusius</i>, Soldiers of a <i>Roman</i>
+Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the
+Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the
+Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so
+very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church
+of <i>Rome</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at <i>Bonn</i>, yet
+he spends most of his Time at <i>Bruhl</i>, a House he caused to be built three
+Leagues out of Town; which, tho’ not very large, has very fine Apartments,
+adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The
+Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine
+when finish’d.</p>
+
+<p>The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a
+League from <i>Bonn</i>, near a Village called <i>Popelsdorff</i>, which was built
+in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the
+present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ
+the Materials in the Works at <i>Bruhl</i>. Near <i>Popelsdorff</i>, there’s a
+Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.</p>
+
+<p>All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of <i>Bonn</i>, which are
+moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here,
+than at <i>Cologne</i>; for <i>Bonn</i> grows every Day finer, while the latter is
+decaying.</p>
+
+<p>After having walk’d about here a great deal, expecting the Elector’s
+Return, this Prince is
+at<!--344.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span>
+length arrived, together with Duke <i>Ferdinand</i>
+his Brother. He was welcom’d with the Discharge of the Cannon, and
+complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return,
+and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the <i>Teutonic</i> Order.
+Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress’d in a Lay
+Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the
+Dress which is most affected by the Electors of <i>Cologne</i>, is like that of
+the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as
+Grand Master of a Military Order.</p>
+
+<p>His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called <i>Clement Augustus</i>;
+for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves
+Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit
+of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an
+Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly
+descended. He lived in his Infancy at <i>Gratz</i>, together with the Princes
+his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards,
+with Duke <i>Philip</i> his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis <i>Santini</i>, a Native
+of <i>Lucca</i>, a Commandeur of the Order of <i>Malta</i>, and a Lieutenant-General
+in the Service of <i>Bavaria</i>, was appointed for their Governor. Duke
+<i>Philip</i> was chose Bishop of <i>Paderborn</i> and <i>Munster</i>. The Gentleman who
+was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count <i>de Plettenberg</i>, now
+the Elector’s Prime Minister, who was then purely attach’d to that Prince,
+from the Devotion he always had for the House of <i>Bavaria</i>; and Duke
+<i>Philip</i> dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those
+two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke <i>Clement-Augustus</i> for their Bishop.
+This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope’s
+own<!--345.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span>
+Hand, at <i>Rome</i>; and
+afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after
+this, the Elector of <i>Cologne</i>, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be
+appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of <i>Joseph Clement</i>, <i>Clement
+Augustus</i> succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of <i>Hildesheim</i>. After the
+Death of the Duke of <i>York</i>, <i>Ernest-Augustus</i>, Duke of
+<i>Brunswic-Lunenbourg</i>, and Bishop of <i>Osnabruck</i>, he was chose for
+Successor to that Prince’s Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand
+Master of the <i>Teutonic</i> Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights,
+who have Commanderies in that Order.</p>
+
+<p>The Enemies of the House of <i>Bavaria</i> murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of
+such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; <i>What!</i> say they,
+<i>one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the
+like in all our Annals; ’tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church</i>. I
+am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so
+or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and
+even more Benefices; and that ’tis for the Welfare and Interest of the
+Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. <i>Albert</i>, Cardinal
+of <i>Brandenbourg</i>, was at the same time Archbishop of <i>Mentz</i> and
+<i>Magdebourg</i>. The Archduke <i>Leopold</i> held nine great<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> Benefices; but it
+was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the
+Church. <i>Francis</i> of <i>Newbourg</i>, the last Elector of <i>Mentz</i>, tho’ not a
+Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry
+against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector
+should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth
+or<!--346.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span>
+Merit to
+the Archduke <i>Leopold</i>, and to the Prince of <i>Newbourg</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the
+Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the
+contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several
+Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by
+the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them,
+separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the
+Misfortune of <i>Germany</i> to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being
+united under one Head, they are a formidable State.</p>
+
+<p><i>But</i>, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen <i>was only Bishop of</i>
+Munster, <i>and yet he made</i> Holland <i>tremble</i>. This is very true; but they
+don’t consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would
+never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But
+admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic,
+what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of <i>Europe</i>, and
+particularly of <i>Germany</i>, is very much chang’d since his Death. The
+Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters
+of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the
+best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics,
+on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions
+impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.
+Therefore, I say it again, ’tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the
+Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute
+their utmost to augment
+it,<!--347.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span>
+in order to furnish Religion and the Church
+with an able Protector.</p>
+
+<p>Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious
+Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both Love and
+Respect. His Prime Minister is <i>Ferdinand</i> Count <i>de
+Plettenberg-Nordkirchen</i>, whose Family has been of distinguish’d Rank for
+a long time in <i>Westphalia</i>, and has given several Princes Bishops of
+<i>Paderborn</i> and <i>Munster</i>. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and
+M. <i>de Plettenberg</i> is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been
+promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy
+Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the
+Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the
+Elector to guarantee the <i>Pragmatic Sanction</i>: The Count <i>de Plettenberg</i>
+is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be
+ambitious of in <i>Germany</i>: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor’s
+Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the
+Elector of <i>Cologne</i>’s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime
+Minister.</p>
+
+<p>Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the
+Elector being partly obliged to him for his own<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> Grandeur. ’Twas this
+Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose,
+first, Bishop of <i>Paderborn</i> and <i>Munster</i>, and afterwards Bishop of
+<i>Hildesheim</i><!--348.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>
+and <i>Osnabruck</i>: He also contributed very much to his being
+elected Coadjutor of <i>Cologne</i>; for had it not been for his
+Representations, the deceased Elector <i>Joseph Clement</i> would, perhaps,
+have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he
+apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step:
+But the Count <i>de Plettenberg</i> dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and
+by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the
+Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services,
+performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject,
+could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the
+Elector’s intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The
+Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His
+Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He
+has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in
+their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the
+First Minister of a great Prince, at an<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> Age when a Person would scarce
+presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour
+itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which
+only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears
+attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without
+affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent,
+vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o’Clock
+every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a
+magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there
+is that
+Frugality<!--349.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span>
+observed, which is so laudable in those who have
+Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to
+the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the
+Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and
+Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in <i>Germany</i>, so he
+is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His
+Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of
+excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of
+his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at <i>Nordkirchen</i>,
+where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the
+Count <i>de Plettenberg</i> adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens
+to it, which will not easily be match’d in <i>Germany</i>. This Minister has an
+only Son at the University of <i>Leyden</i>, a Youth of great Hopes, who is
+already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and
+Master of the Horse<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> to the Elector of <i>Cologne</i>; and to whom the Count
+<i>de Plettenberg</i>, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to
+follow, and his Example to imitate.</p>
+
+<p>There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The
+Baron <i>de Nothasst</i>, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the
+Elector’s Guard. M. <i>de Walhot de Goudenau</i>, Marshal of the Court. The
+Baron <i>de Schourss</i>, and the Marquises <i>Caponi</i> and <i>Trotti</i>, the
+Elector’s Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to
+Foreigners. The Baron <i>de Sparr</i>, by Birth a <i>Swede</i>, whose Father died in
+the Service of <i>France</i>, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of <i>Bonn</i>.
+His Electoral Highness has lately sent him
+to<!--350.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span>
+<i>Rome</i>, to desire the Holy
+Father’s Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the <i>Teutonic</i>
+Order. M. <i>de Sparr</i> was Page to the late Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>, in which
+Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of
+several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his
+Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography,
+and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the
+State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the
+Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to
+the Elector of <i>Bavaria</i>. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God,
+whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into
+Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a
+Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest’s Orders. He said his first
+Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke <i>Theodore</i> of
+<i>Bavaria</i>, Bishop of <i>Ratisbon</i> and <i>Freisingen</i>, said his. He went a Year
+ago to <i>Rome</i>, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the
+Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every
+body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that ’twere to be wished
+all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to
+God, and the World.</p>
+
+<p>The Elector’s Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two
+Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron <i>de Nothasst</i> is Commander
+in chief of those Troops, which, tho’ but a Handful, are sufficient for
+the Guard of <i>Bonn</i>, <i>Rhinberck</i>, and <i>Keiserswaert</i>, which were fortified
+heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.</p>
+
+<p>In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of <i>Cologne</i>
+governs with the Title
+of<!--351.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span>
+Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral
+Palace, and is served by the Elector’s Officers. During this Time, <i>Bonn</i>
+is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies
+at the House of the Countess <i>de Fugger</i>, where there are many more of the
+Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure.
+In such good Company I leave you, and am, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I have been up the <i>Rhine</i> from <i>Bonn</i> to <i>Mentz</i>, to avoid the
+disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of <i>Wetteravia</i>. I was not
+fatigu’d, but then I was pretty much chagrin’d. I landed at <span class="smcap">Lintz</span>, a
+little Town in the Electorate of <i>Cologne</i>, on the right Side of the
+<i>Rhine</i>; and there I drank the excellent Wine of <i>Bleickert</i>, which is
+made near the Village of <i>Huningen</i>, about a League from this Town. The
+<i>Liegeois</i>, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great
+Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for
+<i>Burgundy</i>. After I had fill’d my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and
+arrived at <span class="smcap">Andernach</span>, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the
+Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for
+<i>Holland</i>. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of
+the Mineral Water
+of<!--352.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span>
+<i>Dunchstein</i>, which in the Summer is very much drank
+with Wine.</p>
+
+<p>A little above <i>Andernach</i>, on the other Side of the River, there’s an
+abandon’d Seat belonging to the Count <i>de Neuwidt</i>, who lays up his
+Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is
+haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met
+with, more or less, in all Countries.</p>
+
+<p>The little Town of <span class="smcap">Neuwidt</span> gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where
+the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too,
+are<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a>Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count <i>Alexander de
+Dhona</i>, who was the King of <i>Prussia</i>’s Governor. She is a Lady highly to
+be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Rhine</i>, which runs thro’ none but a plain Country from <i>Neuwidt</i> to
+<i>Bonn</i>, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give
+me the frightful Remembrance of the <i>Alps</i>. These terrible Rocks are
+cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly
+take one’s Eyes off of them, there’s such a variegated Prospect of
+Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen’s Seats, and Cottages.</p>
+
+<p>The only Town of Consequence is <span class="smcap">Coblentz</span>, in the Electorate of <i>Triers</i>,
+at the Conflux of the <i>Moselle</i> and the <i>Rhine</i>, in a fine Valley
+surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and
+Ramparts. Its two
+Rivers<!--353.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span>
+are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to
+them ’tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several
+Persons of Quality, such as the Counts <i>de la Leie</i>, and <i>de Metternich</i>,
+the Barons <i>de Walpol</i>, and <i>d’Oels</i>. The Count <i>de la Leie</i> is a very
+rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look
+upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a
+Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is
+to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess <i>de
+Schonborn</i>, Sister to the Elector of <i>Triers</i>, a young Gentleman of a
+lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.</p>
+
+<p>The Fortress of <i>Ehrenbreitstein</i>, which is properly the Citadel of
+<i>Coblentz</i>, stands on the other Side of the <i>Rhine</i>. They reckon it
+impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is
+situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by
+itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of
+Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which,
+they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that <i>Lewis</i> XIV. caused to
+be carried from <i>Nancy</i> to <i>Dunkirk</i>. The Palace of the Elector of
+<i>Triers</i> is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much
+pent up by the <i>Rhine</i> on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes
+but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very
+much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called <i>Dahl</i>,
+where live most of the Elector’s Domestics. This Quarter has a
+Communication with the City of <i>Coblentz</i> by a flying Bridge.</p>
+
+<p>The present Bishop of <i>Triers</i> is <i>Francis-George</i> Count <i>de Schonborn</i>,
+who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of <i>Spires</i>, and of the
+Bishop of <i>Ramberg</i> and <i>Wurtzbourg</i>. He is also Bishop
+of<!--354.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span>
+<i>Worms</i>, and
+Abbat of <i>Elwangen</i>. He was elected Archbishop, when <i>Francis-Lewis</i> of
+<i>Newbourg</i> was translated from the Electorate of <i>Triers</i> to that of
+<i>Mentz</i>. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect:
+He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a
+very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his
+Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his
+Houshold not large.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Coblentz</i> I went to <i>Sanckewerdt</i>, which is the Foot of the Castle
+of <span class="smcap">Rhinfeldts</span>, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of <i>Hesse</i>.
+The Landgrave of <i>Cassel</i> was once in Possession of this Fortress, and
+claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family
+of <i>Hesse</i>. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the
+Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of <i>Rhinfeldts</i>, and
+the Troops of <i>Hesse Cassel</i> were by an Imperial Commission turn’d out. A
+Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the
+<i>Upper Rhine</i>. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the
+<i>Rhine</i>, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.</p>
+
+<p>As I still went up the River, I came to <i>Binger-Loch</i>, a Name which is
+given to a Cascade, that the <i>Rhine</i> forms here between two Rocks. This is
+reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the <i>Rhine</i>, though there’s
+no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine;
+which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the
+Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the
+midst of the <i>Rhine</i>, there’s the famous <i>Rats-Tower</i>; built, according to
+Tradition, by <i>Hatto</i> Bishop of <i>Mentz</i>, in the Year 969, to secure him
+from the Rats, which gnaw’d him as
+a<!--355.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span>
+Punishment for his having burnt a
+considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth
+of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous
+Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames,
+ask’d his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable
+soever this Story may seem, ’tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it
+were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I
+questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of
+it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that
+this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a
+Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in
+which ’tis said that Bishop <i>Hatto</i> dwelt, when he was obliged to retire
+to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw’d by the Rats.</p>
+
+<p>The little City of <span class="smcap">Bingen</span> is not far from thence, on the left Side of the
+<i>Rhine</i>. ’Tis the most considerable of all the <i>Rhingau</i>, and ’tis thought
+to produce the best <i>Rhenish</i> Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion
+of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of
+<i>Bacharach</i> was most in Vogue, and the <i>French</i> have not disdained to
+celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in
+request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but
+wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine
+that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of <i>Bacharach</i> is worth
+nothing, in comparison with the Wine of <i>Ridelsheim</i>, and of
+<i>Johannesberg</i>, Vineyards in the <i>Rhingau</i>: But for my Part, who have the
+Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of <i>Bacharach</i>
+very<!--356.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span>
+good,
+and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Bingen</i> to <span class="smcap">Mentz</span>, the <i>Rhine</i> is very broad. This capital City of
+the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the
+<i>Rhine</i>, over which there’s a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in
+the very same Place where <i>Charlemaign</i> caused one to be made of five
+hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City,
+in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of
+<i>Japhet</i>, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of <i>Troy</i>. Be it as
+it will, ’tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in
+the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. <i>Crescent</i>, who was a
+Disciple of St. <i>Paul</i>, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a
+greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of <i>Mentz</i> is Archbishop, and
+Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that
+eminent Dignity, is <i>Philip-Charles</i>, Baron of <i>Eltz</i>; who was chose
+unanimously on the Ninth of <i>June</i> last. He was a Capitular of the
+Metropolitan Churches of <i>Mentz</i> and <i>Triers</i>, Great Chanter of <i>Mentz</i> in
+the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of <i>Triers</i>, Provost of the
+Collegiate Church of <i>St. Peter</i> at <i>Monstadt</i>, a Privy Counsellor to the
+late Elector of <i>Mentz</i>, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic
+Council. His Election by the Chapter of <i>Mentz</i> has been applauded by the
+whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince’s Candour,
+and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded <i>Francis-Lewis</i> of <i>Neubourg</i>,
+whose Predecessor was <i>Francis-Lotharius</i>, Count <i>de Schonborn</i>, who was
+also Bishop of <i>Bamberg</i>. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long
+time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish’d
+it with good Fortifications, and put it into such
+a<!--357.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span>
+Condition, that it
+may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The <i>French</i> had
+begun to fortify <i>Mentz</i> in 1688; and the Marshal <i>d’Uxelles</i>, who then
+commanded here for King <i>Lewis</i> XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to
+sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke <i>Charles</i> of
+<i>Lorain</i>, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works,
+cast up by the <i>French</i>, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others
+of Stone erected in their stead.</p>
+
+<p>The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some
+fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons <i>de Dalberg</i>,
+<i>Ingelheim</i> and <i>Rolling</i>; but ’tis pity they are not in a better
+Situation.</p>
+
+<p>The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing
+remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in <i>Germany</i>. I remember
+to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop <i>Conrade</i>, that in his Time
+there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned
+with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these <i>Latin</i> Words were
+engraved;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><i>Auri sexcentas habet hæc crux aurea libras.</i></div>
+
+<p>Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure
+you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely
+of Persons of Quality, but they don’t admit Princes to it.</p>
+
+<p>The Elector’s Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was
+answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are
+commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.</p>
+
+<!--358.png--><p><span class="pagenum">355</span></p>
+
+<p>That which most deserves a Traveller’s View in this City, is the
+<i>Carthusians</i>-house, one of the finest in <i>Europe</i>, as well for its
+Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very
+neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The
+Joiner’s Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which
+represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric
+fronts the <i>Rhine</i>, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a
+Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a
+perfect Square, with the Cells of the <i>Carthusians</i> round it, each of
+which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but
+neatly furnished. The <i>Carthusians</i>, after the Hours are over which they
+devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or
+employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and
+industrious Occupations.</p>
+
+<p>It may be said, to the Praise of the <i>Carthusians</i> in general, that they
+always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women,
+and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as
+that tho’ they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it
+any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.</p>
+
+<p>At the Foot of the <i>Carthusians</i>-house, which stands on a very high Hill,
+is the Palace and Garden of the <i>Favorita</i>, belonging to the Elector.
+<i>Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn</i>, caused this House to be erected; the
+Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call’d a
+Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole
+are heap’d, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little
+Fancy. There’s a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions,
+detach’d<!--359.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span>
+from it,
+disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there’s a Prospect of
+the <i>Rhine</i>, the <i>Main</i>, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the
+other Side of those Rivers.</p>
+
+<p>For the rest, ’tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject
+to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there’s a great Number of
+Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.
+The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of
+the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of <i>Mentz</i> is
+to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the
+Waters; such as <i>Wisbade</i>, <i>Schwalbach</i> and <i>Schlangenbadt</i>. And while
+these Waters are in Season, <i>Mentz</i>, <i>Francfort</i>, <i>Darmstadt</i>, and all the
+neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.</p>
+
+<p>I was some Years ago at <span class="smcap">Schwalbach</span>, and was very merry there. ’Tis a
+little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from <i>Mentz</i>, and belongs to
+the Landgrave of <i>Hesse-Rhinfelds</i>. The Waters which are drank there, very
+much resemble those of <i>Spa</i> in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I
+am sure, that if <i>Schwalbach</i> was so happy as to be frequented for the
+sake of its Waters, by two or three <i>English</i> Gentlemen of Distinction, it
+would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the
+Purse from <i>Spa</i>. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same
+as at <i>Spa</i>; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater
+Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without
+Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and
+it’s surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of
+fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a <i>German</i> Comedy, which
+<!--360.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span>really,
+I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at
+which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes
+here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Schlangenbadt</span>, which is a League from <i>Schwalbach</i>, is a Place that
+consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of
+<i>Mentz</i>, and the other to the Landgrave of <i>Hesse Darmstadt</i>. Here they
+use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves,
+and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they
+don’t take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.</p>
+
+<p>This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of <i>Mentz</i>, and its
+Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be
+gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as
+I fall down the <i>Rhine</i>, I hope in two Days to be at <i>Cologne</i>, from
+whence I shall proceed thro’ <i>Dusseldorff</i> towards <i>Cleves</i>. There I hope
+to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am,
+<i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER XLIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At my Return to <i>Cologne</i>, I went to see the Castle or Palace of <span class="smcap">Bensberg</span>,
+belonging to the Elector <i>Palatine</i>, in the Country of <i>Berg</i>, three
+Leagues from the
+<i>Rhine</i>,<!--361.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span>
+which River I passed over a flying Bridge,
+between <i>Cologne</i> and <i>Duitz</i>. This House is worth seeing. ’Twas founded
+by Order of the Elector <i>John-William</i>, who was a Prince in every Thing
+magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from <i>Italy</i> to build it.
+All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such
+as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they
+dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well
+decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect
+of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble
+Scenes to View.</p>
+
+<p>From this House I went to <span class="smcap">Dusseldorff</span>, the Capital of the Duchy of <i>Berg</i>,
+belonging to the Elector <i>Palatine</i>. This City stands in the midst of a
+fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from <i>Cologne</i>. The <i>Rhine</i> washes its
+Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been
+obliged to make great Works to break the Current. <i>Dusseldorff</i> is but a
+small Place. The late Elector <i>John-William</i>, who resided in it, had
+undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call
+the <i>New-Town</i>; but that Prince’s Death, and the Absence of the Court, put
+a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but
+’tis carried on so slowly, that ’twill take up a great deal of Time to
+finish it.</p>
+
+<p>The Elector’s Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but
+a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or
+Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in
+the first Room are all by the Hand of <i>Rubens</i>. That of the <i>Last Day of
+Judgment</i> is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by
+that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the
+Duke<!--362.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span>
+<i>Wolffgang de
+Neubourg</i>, in Acknowledgment for that Prince’s having taken him out of
+<i>Spain</i>, where <i>Rubens</i> was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The
+Pictures in the second Room are all done by several <i>Flemish</i> Masters, but
+most of ’em by <i>Van Dyck</i>. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains
+Pictures by the most skilful <i>Italian</i> Masters. The fourth is adorned with
+the Works of the Chevalier <i>Van der Werf</i>, a <i>Dutch</i> Painter, who died
+lately at the <i>Hague</i>, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures
+sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector <i>John-William</i> gave
+him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand
+Florins for each Picture. No <i>Flemish</i> Painter excelled him in Designing,
+or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and
+the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more
+beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire <i>the Life and Passion
+of our Saviour</i>; Diana <i>in the Bath</i>, a Piece for which the Elector
+<i>John-William</i> paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of
+<i>Mary-Anne</i> of <i>Medicis</i>, that Elector’s Wife, which Princess is
+represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The
+fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces
+by Masters of the first Rank; as <i>Raphael</i>, <i>Julius Romain</i>, <i>Peter di
+Cortona</i>, <i>Guido</i>, <i>Titian</i>, <i>Paul Veronese</i>, <i>Tintoret</i>, <i>Correggio</i>,
+<i>Albano</i>, the <i>Caracchis</i>, <i>Joseph Pin</i>, <i>Paul Rubens</i>, <i>Van Dyck</i>,
+<i>Reimbrants</i>, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious
+in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are
+distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the
+utmost Perfection, copy’d, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed
+upon beautiful Tables of <i>Florence</i>; portable Cabinets, adorned with
+excellent<!--363.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span>
+Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of
+other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery
+truly magnificent.</p>
+
+<p>Under these Rooms there’s another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and
+Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of <i>Rome</i>
+and <i>Florence</i>; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector
+<i>John-William</i>, with very great Care and Expence.</p>
+
+<p>In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector’s Equestrian
+Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral
+Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not
+answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking
+Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very
+wretched Figure; tho’ ’tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a
+Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine
+Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole
+Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even
+without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, <i>John-William</i> of
+<i>Neubourg</i>, the Elector <i>Palatine</i>, deserved as much as any Prince in the
+World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.
+He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and
+Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his
+Good-nature render’d him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and
+the Darling of his Subjects.</p>
+
+<p>This great Prince lived at a Time when <i>Germany</i> had four other Princes,
+who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; <i>viz.</i>
+<i>Frederic-Augustus</i> King of <i>Poland</i>, <i>Frederic</i>
+King<!--364.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span>
+of <i>Prussia</i>,
+<i>Antony-Ulric</i> Duke of <i>Brunswic-Lunenbourg</i>, and <i>Charles</i> Landgrave of
+<i>Hesse Cassel</i>; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the
+King of<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> <i>Poland</i>, the rest having no Life but in History, where they
+are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of
+their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to
+the latest Posterity.</p>
+
+<p>The present Elector <i>Palatine</i> having fixed his Residence at <i>Manheim</i>,
+there’s a Regency at <i>Dusseldorff</i>, of which the Count <i>de Schasberg</i> is
+the President. The Country of <i>Berg</i>, and that of <i>Juliers</i>, depending on
+it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay
+any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.
+All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular
+Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.
+The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful
+Convent here. There’s a Chapel without the <i>Cologne</i> Gate, which is worth
+seeing. ’Tis built after the Model of the <i>Santa Casa</i> of <i>Loretto</i>, and
+adorned with very fine Paintings. ’Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of
+<i>John-William</i>, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.</p>
+
+<p>Tho’ the Court is no longer at <i>Dusseldorff</i>, yet here is very good
+Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.
+There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame <i>de
+Speik</i>, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a
+Court.</p>
+
+<p>I went from <i>Dusseldorff</i> to <span class="smcap">Keiserswerdt</span>, formerly a Place of Importance,
+which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly
+dismantled.<!--365.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">362</a></span>
+From
+thence I proceeded to <span class="smcap">Duisbourg</span>, a Town in the Duchy of <i>Cleves</i>, at the
+Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but
+indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of <i>Duisbourg</i> is only
+remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and <i>Wesel</i>,
+is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that’s
+good.</p>
+
+<p>After having crossed the Rivers of <i>Roer</i> and <i>Lippe</i> in the Ferry-boats,
+I came to <span class="smcap">Wesel</span>, a strong Place of the Duchy of <i>Cleves</i>, belonging to the
+King of <i>Prussia</i>: ’Tis regularly fortify’d, and has a very good Citadel
+towards the <i>Rhine</i>. The late King of <i>Prussia</i>, <i>Frederic</i> I. was the
+first that set about fortifying of <i>Wesel</i>; and his Son, King
+<i>Frederic-William</i>, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.
+M. <i>Bot</i>, now a General Officer in <i>Saxony</i>, had the Direction of those
+Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to
+M. <i>Walrave</i>, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render
+<i>Wesel</i> one of the strongest Places in <i>Germany</i>. Nothing in this Town
+more particularly deserves a Traveller’s Attention, than the <i>Berlin</i>
+Gate, of which M. <i>Bot</i> drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or
+more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is
+extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or
+Ammunition.</p>
+
+<p>In my Way from <i>Wesel</i> to this Town, I came to <span class="smcap">Santen</span>, formerly a famous
+City, but now very much decay’d. The Catholic Church is a beautiful
+Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which
+the Natives pay great Devotion.</p>
+
+<!--366.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span></p>
+
+<p>’Tis five Leagues from <i>Santen</i> to <span class="smcap">Cleves</span>, thro’ one continued Range
+of<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> Walks. The Avenue that leads to <i>Cleves</i> is magnificent. This Town
+is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King’s Palace is ancient,
+yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.
+There’s nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these
+Apartments. <i>Lewis</i> Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, Grandson to <i>Lewis the Great</i>,
+coming with his Army to <i>Cleves</i> in 1702, thought the Situation of the
+Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he
+wish’d <i>Versailles</i> was as well situate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cleves</i> is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which
+is M. <i>de Borck</i>, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of
+his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil,
+and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.</p>
+
+<p>There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the
+Chancellor <i>de Becker</i>, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very
+handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the
+Baroness <i>de Blaspiel</i>, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour
+to the Queen of <i>Prussia</i>, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never
+was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same
+Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole
+Court of <i>Berlin</i> thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to
+remove her from Court, by banishing M. <i>de Blaspiel</i>, who was one of his
+Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he
+died,<!--367.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span>
+and having no
+Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don’t
+know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was
+at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came
+hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to
+come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was
+formerly very well acquainted with Madame <i>de Blaspiel</i> at Court, and had
+Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what
+has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other
+Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well
+acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again
+so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great
+many Facts to tell you, which ’tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.
+I kiss your Hand, and am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i003.png" width="400" height="65" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER L.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had
+it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I
+should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I
+thought <i>Holland</i> did not deserve your Attention as much as any other
+Country in the World,
+but<!--368.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span>
+because, as I found I had nothing new to send
+you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what
+others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these
+Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best
+manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Cleves</i> I went to <span class="smcap">Nimeguen</span>, a Town in the Province of <i>Guelderland</i>,
+and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of
+<i>Prussia</i>; from which ’tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on
+the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the <i>Vahal</i>, a River which comes out of
+the <i>Rhine</i>, and falls into the <i>Maese</i>, near the Town of <i>Dort</i> or
+<i>Dordrecht</i>. The <i>French</i>, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the
+Time when the Republic seem’d ready to sink under the Weight of their
+Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify’d; so that ’tis now a
+Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign’d
+here in 1678, between <i>France</i> and the States General; and in the next
+Year, between the Emperor, <i>Spain</i>, the Princes of <i>Germany</i>, and
+<i>France</i>. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is
+much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there’s a Prospect of a
+great Tract of Country beyond the <i>Vahal</i>; which is one of the finest
+Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that <i>Nimeguen</i> affords.</p>
+
+<p>After having crossed the <i>Vahal</i> over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or
+five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is
+very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of
+Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or
+the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather,
+because
+the<!--369.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span>
+common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in <i>Holland</i>, are so made,
+that a little Matter turns ’em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the
+Inventor of ’em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the
+most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to
+yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step,
+placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The
+Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread
+over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one’s Head
+against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the
+Entrance of <i>Proserpine</i> into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by
+which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing
+one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his
+Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are
+stow’d in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination,
+makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers.</p>
+
+<p>’Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to
+<span class="smcap">Rhenen</span>, a little Town on an Arm of the <i>Rhine</i>, which has for a long time
+been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate <i>Frederic</i> Elector
+<i>Palatine</i>, who was chose King of <i>Bohemia</i>. That Prince caused a House to
+be built there, which now belongs to the King of <i>Great Britain</i>, as Heir
+to the Electress <i>Sophia</i> his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said
+<i>Frederic</i>, by <i>Elizabeth</i> Princess of <i>England</i>; but all the Use which
+the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in
+his Journies to and from <i>Hanover</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Road from <i>Rhenen</i> to <i>Utrecbt</i> is like the Sands of <i>Libya</i>; I mean
+that which the
+Caravans<!--370.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span>
+take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather
+they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by
+consequence, not passable when it has rain’d.</p>
+
+<p>As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are
+several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of
+<i>Athlone</i>, whose Ancestor was General of the <i>Dutch</i> Infantry, and made a
+Peer of <i>Great Britain</i> by King <i>William</i> III. is one of the most
+considerable: But it is inferior to <span class="smcap">Zeist</span>, a Palace belonging to the Count
+of <i>Nassau</i>, Son of the late Mons. <i>d’Odyck</i>, distinguished in the
+Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his
+Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven
+Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman’s Palace. It has fine
+Gardens, and stately Avenues. <i>Lewis</i> XIV. resided in it at the Time when
+that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The
+Count <i>de Nassau-Zeist</i> had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place
+<i>Frederic</i> I. King of <i>Prussia</i>, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more
+agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because
+that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its
+Allies.</p>
+
+<p>The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of
+<i>Utrecht</i>, <i>Guelderland</i> and <i>Over-yssel</i>, have much more the Appearance
+of Palaces than those in <i>Holland</i>; where Land is so dear, that they can
+only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed,
+would not want for Magnificence.</p>
+
+<p>The Neighbourhood of <i>Utrecht</i> is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to
+the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV. so admir’d upon Account
+of<!--371.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span>
+its Walks, that he wish’d he
+could transport them to <i>Versailles</i>, and ordered his Troops not to cut
+down the Trees.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Utrecht</span>, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of
+<i>Jericho</i>, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of <i>Israel</i>,
+were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did
+not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to
+carry their Keys to the King of <i>France</i>, notwithstanding the Offers made
+to them by the Prince of <i>Orange</i>, to defend the Place. <i>Lewis</i> XIV.
+entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very
+short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That
+in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground;
+and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to
+place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his
+Majesty came by. If this Circumstance is true, they who possessed the King
+with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the <i>Dutch</i>, who, ’tis possible,
+might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a
+Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to
+fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character.</p>
+
+<p>The Streets of <i>Utrecht</i> are spacious and very airy, its Houses pleasant
+and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the
+Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to
+<i>Charles</i> II. King of <i>Spain</i>. This City, next to the <i>Hague</i>, is the most
+agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here’s a great Number, as well
+as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for
+the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir’d.</p>
+
+<!--372.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its
+Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for
+Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies
+of Dragoons. The Court of <i>Rome</i> always nominates the Archbishop, who
+commonly resides at <i>Amsterdam</i>. I think the Person who enjoys
+this<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a>Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but ’tis probable he has
+no View to a Cardinal’s Cap, he being a declared <i>Jansenist</i>. The
+<i>Carthusians</i> who retired from <i>France</i> under the specious Pretext of
+securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese,
+where they live in two separate Convents not very far from <i>Utrecht</i>, and
+are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in <i>France</i>, about
+the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the
+Protestants, who did not think they differ’d very widely from their
+Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur <i>Paris</i> pass for a
+Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has
+been conceiv’d of ’em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for
+these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who
+increase the Number of ’em. Be this as it will, ’tis allow’d by every
+body, even by the most zealous <i>Roman</i> Catholics, that setting aside their
+Religious Sentiments, there’s no Fault to be found
+with<!--373.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span>
+their Morals and
+Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the
+Convent which they have abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may
+believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it:
+Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are
+neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the
+Ambassadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho’ it was not for want of Money,
+insomuch that several of ’em might have purchased the Houses they lived
+in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the
+Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me
+in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three
+Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of
+the Republic. <i>Nimeguen</i>, said they, signified <span class="smcap">Neim-Weg</span> (<i>Take all</i>),
+<i>Reiswick</i>, <span class="smcap">Reis-Weg</span> (<i>Pluck up all</i>), and <i>Utrecht</i>, <span class="smcap">Ausser Recht</span>
+(<i>Witbout Right</i>). If every Thing be fairly examin’d, all this perhaps may
+be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies.</p>
+
+<p>I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from
+<i>Utrecht</i> to <i>Amsterdam</i>, which is not only the most commodious, but the
+best regulated, and the cheapest Passage in <i>Europe</i>. One knows to a
+Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets
+into Port. If you agree for the <i>Rous</i> or Cabin, one is alone, or with
+what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to
+<i>Utrecht</i>, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came
+out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Canal which
+carried me to <i>Amsterdam</i> presents a thousand agreeable
+Objects<!--374.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span>
+to View,
+being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent
+Gardens, Meadows and Villages.</p>
+
+<p>After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the
+Inhabitants, I am arrived at <span class="smcap">Amsterdam</span>, that modern <i>Tyre</i>, the Mistress
+of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest,
+and most wealthy Cities in <i>Europe</i>. It contains both sacred and profane
+Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely)
+retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in
+the Buildings of <i>Venice</i> and <i>Genoa</i>, which are of a sublimer Taste,
+because the Nobility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be
+truly great and noble at <i>Amsterdam</i>, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks,
+and the broad and deep Ditches with which ’tis encompassed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Amsterdam</i> is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any
+measure to <i>Venice</i>. For tho’ ’tis not built as <i>Venice</i> is, in the midst
+of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like <i>Venice</i> it consists
+of a vast Number of Islands, and its principal Streets have Canals, with
+the Adventage of spacious Kays at their Doors, fenc’d with Trees; whereas
+at <i>Venice</i>, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be
+all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as
+to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one <i>Canal
+Grande</i>, and one <i>Canal Reggio</i>, being worth more in this respect than all
+<i>Amsterdam</i>. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat,
+genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of
+Brick. Heretofore the <i>Amsterdammers</i> Manner of Building was very
+extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon
+Stilts, which I explain thus:
+The<!--375.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">372</a></span>
+Front of the first Floor, upon the
+Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars
+that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for
+them, is very slight; for there’s seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in
+Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in
+the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is
+overheard in the second. I don’t criticize the Manner of the Distribution
+of their Rooms; tho’, to be plain, their Architects know no more of this
+Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of
+them smoaky. ’Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded
+by it, and that they might even do without them<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a>. For the Women warm
+themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen
+Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor’d in it, which they keep
+under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her
+Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined
+with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick
+Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove
+as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is
+seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and
+I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who
+don’t boil the Pot above once a Week: For there’s no Nation in the World
+that feeds worse than the <i>Dutch</i>, and particularly the <i>Amsterdammers</i>,
+Butter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet.</p>
+
+<!--376.png--><p><span class="pagenum">373</span></p>
+
+<p>But I have deviated from the Article I was upon, touching their Manner of
+Building. I cannot conceive how ’tis possible for Houses that are so
+slight to stand: And there are some that perfectly totter from Side to
+Side; but I had rather see a Woman dance, than a House. A great Number of
+those Houses have lately been set upright. One of those Pinacles, in Form
+of a Sugar-loaf, which is at the Top of most of the old Houses, unhappily
+fell down and kill’d three Persons that were passing along the Street:
+Whereupon the Government, out of their great Care to prevent all such
+Accidents for the future, ordered the Landlords of every House to cause
+those staggering Pyramids to be pulled down: This has had two good
+Effects; for People are not so liable to be knock’d o’the Head, and the
+Town looks handsomer. The principal Ornament of the Houses is their
+Windows, there being scarce a Country that has finer Glazing, and many of
+the Houses have Windows of polish’d Plate-glass. But in some Palaces of
+<i>Venice</i> or <i>Genoa</i>, the Paintings and Gildings only of the Ceilings are
+worth more than the finest House in <i>Amsterdam</i>. Yet I don’t deny but
+there are Houses here, in the Rearing of which no Cost has been spar’d,
+but in general they are small. There are scarce any that have above five
+Windows in Front, others have four, and the greatest Part three. The Entry
+is by Steps of black Marble or Stone. To the Houses of the common Size,
+there’s a very narrow Entry pav’d with white Marble, with which the Walls
+are often fac’d, at least to a certain Height. The Apartment consists
+generally of two Rooms on a Floor, a little Court behind it, and a second
+Pile of Building, which is but one Room in Depth, and has Lights towards
+the Garden. At <i>Venice</i>
+and<!--377.png--><span class="pagenum">374</span>
+<i>Genoa</i>, a Merchant (for I set the Nobles
+aside) will have at least an Apartment of three or four Rooms. At
+<i>Amsterdam</i> the Furniture is neatest, and in <i>Italy</i> the richest. Here one
+shall find a curious Piece of <i>Flemish</i> Tapestry, a Closet of Pictures,
+fine Glass, a great deal of <i>China</i> Ware, and curious Toys from the
+<i>Indies</i>; the Floor shall be covered with fine <i>Persian</i> Carpets; but you
+shan’t see any Furniture of Velvet embroidered with Gold, no Lustres of
+Rock-Crystal, no great Collection of Paintings, nor that Abundance of
+antique Busts, Vases and Statues of Marble and Brass. In fine, to conclude
+this long Parallel, I must tell you, that if the Palaces of <i>Italy</i> were
+as neat as the Houses of <i>Amsterdam</i>, there would be nothing to compare to
+them; and if the Houses of <i>Amsterdam</i> were as much neglected as those of
+<i>Italy</i>, they would be of no Manner of Account.</p>
+
+<p>Be a House here ever so small, there’s always some Apartment in it
+uninhabited, which is the finest Part of the Building. ’Tis a Sanctuary
+whereof the upper Servant Maid of the House is the grand Priestess. She
+has so profound a Respect for this unfrequented Place that she never
+enters it without putting off her Shoes, for fear of soiling the Floor,
+which is held in so great Veneration that they pay it a Sort of Worship:
+’Tis the Residence of the Houshold Gods, and one is sure of incurring the
+Indignation both of the Mistress and the Maids, if one does not shew the
+same Veneration to their Floor as they do. Whoever enters the House, must
+first rub their Feet upon a Mat at the Door, and be sure not to spit, were
+they in Danger of being choak’d, unless they find a little Basket of Sand
+laid there for the Purpose; and if a Person should but happen to drop the
+least Thing capable of spotting
+the<!--378.png--><span class="pagenum">375</span>
+Floor, I am not sure that the
+Priestesses would not sacrifice the Delinquent to their Idol, and that we
+should not see the Revival of the Story of <i>Orpheus</i> and the <i>Bacchantes</i>.
+There are however some particular Days in the Year when the Priestesses
+give their Masters Leave to enter these Sanctuaries, and therein to
+receive Company; but the very next Day, this Place, which in the Language
+of the Country is called <i>Besse-Kamer</i> (i. e. <i>the best Room</i>) is wash’d
+and purify’d, as our Churches are after they have been profaned. I don’t
+make Things a jot worse than they are in reality, and I am sure there are
+some Rooms that are not opened four times in a Year, unless it be to air
+the Goods. ’Tis the same with a thousand fine Things in the
+<i>Amsterdammers</i> Possession, which they don’t make use of for fear of
+spoiling them: Thus they live in the midst of Abundance, and of Wealth,
+without the Hearts to enjoy what they have. Nevertheless, within these few
+Years past, they begin to have some Taste of Life: They give into
+Equipage, Furniture, and Rural Entertainments, and their Women into Dress
+and Splendor. The old Men exclaim against new Fashions, and say the
+Republic is in a declining State, in which they resemble one of our
+Emperors, who observing that his Master of the Horse had changed the
+Cord-Traces, which had been the Fashion of his Court, into Leather Traces,
+cry’d out, That <i>Luxury would be the Ruin of his Family, and his
+Government</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Government of <i>Amsterdam</i> is in a Senate, consisting of sixty-three
+Persons, who hold their Places for Life; and when any one dies, ’tis the
+Senate that appoints his Successor: In this Body there are twelve
+Burgomasters, of whom four preside annually. They chuse three out of the
+twelve every Year, who with one of the four of the
+last<!--379.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">376</a></span>
+Year, that
+continues in Office, have the Direction of Affairs. These latter, before
+they enter into their Office, are obliged to take an Oath to the senior
+Burgomasters. He who is continued from one Year to the other, has the
+Presidency for three Months, after which the others take it in their
+Turns; and they who go out of their<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a>Office, are commonly employed as
+Treasurers of the City, or as Counselor-Deputies to the States of
+<i>Holland</i>, residing at the <i>Hague</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Office of Burgomaster is more honourable than profitable; for ’tis
+said, their Salary is only five hundred Florins <i>per Annum</i>: But their
+Authority is considerable; for they are the chief Magistrates, and in some
+Sort the Masters of the City. They dispose of all the public Money, and
+they alone judge of what is necessary for the Safety of the Town. They are
+the Guardians of the Bank, which can only be opened in the Presence of one
+of ’em. They confer all Offices, and may therewith gratify whom they will,
+and if they please, their own Children; so that, as in <i>Germany</i>, there
+needs but a Bishop in a decay’d Family to repair its Misfortunes, so here,
+if there be but a Burgomaster in a Family, ’tis enough to make ’em all
+easy.</p>
+
+<p>There is also in this City a Bailiff, who is called <i>Hoofd-Schout</i>, or
+<i>Hoofd-Officier</i>, who is the same that is elsewhere called the Lieutenant
+of the Police. He has under him three Substitutes, who are called the
+<i>Under-Schouts</i>. These are they
+who<!--380.png--><span class="pagenum">377</span>
+apprehend Malefactors, which they
+often do in the midst of a Mob, only accompanied with a Couple of Archers
+who have no other Arms but Swords. Yet every one trembles at the Sight of
+’em, and two Men carry another to Prison, with more Ease than forty
+Archers can do the like at <i>Paris</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Senate meets in the Stadthouse. This Fabric, so much celebrated for
+its Magnificence, and because it contains the richest Bank in the
+Universe, is really a stately Edifice; and tho’ it has Defects, it may be
+ranked in the Number of the finest Buildings in <i>Europe</i>. It fronts a
+Square called the <i>Dam</i>, in the Centre of the City. The Building is almost
+a complete Quadrangle, with Pavilions at each Angle. In the middle of the
+principal Front there’s an advanced Building which takes up one third of
+the whole Front. ’Tis decorated by seven Porticos, so small that they
+disfigure all this great Pile of Building; which they pretend was not
+owing to the Ignorance of the Architect, but to a political Cause: For at
+the Time that this Stadthouse was built, the Republic was but in its
+Infancy. The Populace of <i>Amsterdam</i>, a turbulent Mob, ready for any
+Mischief, were then far less submissive to their Magistrates than now; and
+they so often disturbed those Magistrates in their Deliberations, that the
+Architect chose to make the Avenues so narrow, on purpose to prevent the
+Inconveniencies of too easy an Entrance by a Crowd of People. But if this
+was his true Reason for not keeping to the Rules of Architecture, three
+great Porticos would have done as well as seven small ones: He might have
+given them due Proportion, and the Front would have been more majestic.
+But the Number Seven was the chosen Number, and it was to represent the
+Seven United Provinces,
+to<!--381.png--><span class="pagenum">378</span>
+whose Union the City of <i>Amsterdam</i> owes its
+Enjoyment of Liberty and Commerce. Notwithstanding this Defect, ’tis
+certain that a Foreigner, tho’ he will not offer to compare this
+Stadthouse to the Palace of <i>Versailles</i>, to the Escurial, or to the
+<i>Procuraties</i> at <i>Venice</i>; and tho’ when he looks on it, he may only think
+he sees a Town-house, and not the Palace of a King, or of a powerful
+State, yet he cannot behold it without Admiration, especially if he does
+but consider that every Material in this Building was brought from foreign
+Countries.</p>
+
+<p>The Outside of this great Fabric is all of Free-stone, extremely well put
+together; and an Order of very substantial Pilasters ranges quite round
+the whole. The Part which projects from the principal Front, is terminated
+by a Pediment, which is a grand Piece of Sculpture. It represents the City
+of <i>Amsterdam</i>, under the Figure of <i>Cybele</i>, seated in a Chair. Four
+<i>Naiads</i>, and two Sea Nymphs, present her with Crowns of Palms, and
+Laurels, and Fruit, in token of the Power and Abundance which this City
+receives by Commerce. On the other Side, <i>Neptune</i>, accompanied by the
+<i>Tritons</i>, seems approaching to pay his Homage to the Goddess, undoubtedly
+to denote the Power of this City at Sea. All this magnificent Groupe is
+extremely well executed, and very much esteemed by the Connoisseurs. A
+Dome at the Top of this Edifice has eight great open Arches all round,
+which support the Cupola; and in this Dome there’s a Chime of Bells which
+the Lovers of such noisy Music say is very good Harmony.</p>
+
+<p>The first Room within is the Chamber of Justice, wherein the Criminals
+receive their Sentence. It has three Porticos which open into the great
+Square, from whence may be seen what passes in that Chamber. This Room is
+adorned with
+Bas-Reliefs<!--382.png--><span class="pagenum">379</span>
+of white Marble, done by excellent Hands.
+<i>Solomon</i>’s Judgment is there represented in such a grand Manner as is
+wonderful. Beyond this Chamber is the great Stair-case, which has no
+manner of Ornament, and little or no Light. It leads to the great Hall,
+which is really magnificent, but not very lightsome. It is adorned with
+Pilasters and Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, executed with infinite Art. The
+arch’d Roof, which is of Wood, and painted with Oil, is not answerable to
+the Richness of this Hall. Four great Coridors or Galleries, laid open by
+great Arches on both Sides, at the two Ends of the Hall, lead to the
+Apartments, and are adorned with white marble Pilasters two and two,
+Flowers in Bas-Relief, and Statues of a grand Disposition; and the Emblems
+with which the Gates are adorned, are all very suitable to the Business
+that is transacted in the Chamber to which they open.</p>
+
+<p>I shall not undertake to give you the Particulars of all these Rooms, not
+only because it would carry me too far, but because I observed nothing in
+them, except some Paintings, that is worth your Notice. The Arsenal takes
+up one intire Floor over these Chambers, but is only considerable for the
+prodigious Quantity of Arms of the modern Fashion, especially Muskets,
+which are the Manufacture of this City, and a Part of its Commerce.</p>
+
+<p>The ground Floor is very low, but consists of fine great Arches. Here are
+contained the Offices of the Bank, and the Prisons, from which no body
+ever yet escaped, and it is humanly impossible they should; for besides
+that the Walls are very thick, the whole is strongly barricaded both
+within and without, by iron Bars, the very Appearance of which is
+frightful. But if ’tis possible for Prisons to be agreeable, these would
+certainly be such, for they are all lightsome; the Prisoners
+are<!--383.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span>
+not so
+ill used as they are elsewhere, but are allowed proper Nourishment, and
+not suffered to Wallow in their Nastiness.</p>
+
+<p>The Stadthouse is the Place where all Persons are married, who are not of
+the Religion that prevails in the Country. This is a Ceremony that may be
+seen every <i>Sunday</i>, and is performed in the Presence of two Echevins, and
+a Secretary. The People that are to be married, go into a Room where the
+Magistrates are seated at a Table, and there they are entered one after
+the other without Distinction of Rank, into the Register of Marriages;
+after which they go Home with the Satisfaction of having been as well
+married as if the Ceremony had been performed by the Pope himself; nor are
+they under the least Necessity of having recourse to the Church.
+Nevertheless, all the regular People go to some Priest or Minister to
+receive the nuptial Benediction.</p>
+
+<p>The Treasure of the Bank is kept in a Place under Ground, which extends,
+as I am assured, a great Way under the Square of the <i>Dam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Every body agrees that it is immense, but nobody knows exactly of how many
+thousand Millions it consists; and it is a Question, whether its Credit be
+not infinitely greater than its Cash; it being certain that the Public has
+such a Confidence in it that every body puts their Money into it, though
+without any Interest for it: On the contrary, it costs One hundred and
+five Florins ready Cash, to have One hundred Florins Bank. The largest
+Payments are commonly made in Bank Notes: A certain Sum is registered in
+the Bank Books, which is transferred, either in whole, or in Part, to the
+Person to whom the Payment is to be made, This is called <i>The Keeping an
+Account at the Bank</i>. It was a Correspondence of this Nature which the
+famous <i>John Law</i> would fain
+have<!--384.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span>
+establish’d at <i>Paris</i>; and he would
+certainly have succeeded, if he had had but the Fund of the Bank of
+<i>Amsterdam</i>, and the public Confidence.</p>
+
+<p>They say that the Revenues of this City amount to fifty thousand Livres a
+Day, which I am apt to believe is true; for really the Taxes here are very
+considerable, the Subjects of this State paying more than those of any
+Crown whatsoever: All the Difference consists in the Distribution of the
+Taxes, and the Manner of raising them: Here they are laid equally upon the
+Rich and upon the poor, upon Citizens and upon Foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>The Liberty so much boasted of in these Provinces, is no more than that
+which the good People of other Countries enjoy; nevertheless, I must
+except Religion, which every one here may adapt to his own Fancy. The
+Liberty therefore consists only in the Equality of Conditions: But for a
+Boor to presume to be saucy to a Burgher, to despise the Nobility, to
+censure his Masters with Impunity, and to treat all Kings as Tyrants,
+seems to me to be a Liberty which favours very much of Libertinism. The
+<i>Germans</i> and the <i>French</i>, who are not used to such Licentiousness in
+their own Country, easily fall into it here; and ’tis really a Wonder to
+hear them in a Coffee-house talking of Sovereigns, especially when,
+inspir’d with a Holy Zeal, they plead for the Religion, which, say they,
+is every-where oppressed, except in the Dominions of the Calvinists. They
+think every Government tyrannical, which does not allow intire Liberty of
+Conscience. ’Tis true that in this Country every one believes as he
+pleases: And here are Religions of every Kind, which nevertheless tend to
+one and the same Centre, <i>viz.</i> the acquiring of Riches, and the
+tormenting both of Body and Soul, to get an Estate, not to
+enjoy<!--385.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span>
+it, but
+to have the Pleasure of dying rich. Money, the Darling and the Idol of the
+whole World, is so adored in this City, that it stands in the stead of
+Birth, Wit, and Merit. A Man who has but a small Share of the Favours of
+Fortune, is neglected almost every-where; but here he is despised.</p>
+
+<p>Next to those of the prevailing Religion, the Catholics, among whom I
+include the Jansenists, are the most numerous: I have been told, they are
+above twenty thousand. They have fourteen Churches, served by different
+Orders of Friers, who as they die, the States have declared, shall be
+succeeded hereafter by none but the secular Priests who are Natives of the
+Country. They say, that this Resolution was taken, because the Monks sent
+the Money which they received for the Poor, to their Convent. What Ground
+there is for this Charge, I know not; but be it as it will, who can be
+sure that the Priests will not employ the Poors Money to enrich their own
+Families? The Catholics form a considerable Body in this State, both for
+their Number and their Wealth. It may be said that they are with the
+<i>Jews</i> (forgive me the Parallel) one of the chief Supports of its
+Commerce; for as they cannot hold Offices, they are Merchants from Father
+to Son; tho’ ’tis true, that among the Protestants who are in Offices,
+there are some who trade.</p>
+
+<p>What I have now said to you of our Clergy, engages me to give you some
+Account of two Calvinist Preachers here, who are very much esteemed, and
+mightily followed by those of their Communion. The one is M. <i>Alstein</i>, a
+<i>German</i> Minister, who preaches in the Church called the <i>Chapel</i>, a Man
+of exemplary Morals, who avoiding angry Disputes and bitter Invectives,
+preaches truly Christian Morality, which reaches to
+the<!--386.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">383</a></span>
+Heart. He was
+Minister of the Garison of <i>Potsdam</i>, in the Dominions of <i>Prussia</i>, when
+he was called hither by the <i>German</i> Colony established in this City. He
+is belov’d and esteemed for his Modesty, Good-nature and Candour. This
+Testimony which I pay him of the Veneration and Esteem I have for him, is
+perfectly agreeable with the Character given of him by the Voice of the
+Public.</p>
+
+<p>The second Preacher is M. <i>Châtelain</i> a <i>French</i> Minister, with whom I
+have no Acquaintance; but he has a very great Character, and I have heard
+him preach. It were to be wish’d, that all the Clergy (our Priests will
+suffer me not to forget them) had it as much at Heart as this Minister
+has, to instruct their Audiences; and that they would preach Morality,
+which is the Life of all Religions, because it is founded upon Piety and
+Virtue. M. <i>Châtelain</i> was Minister at the <i>Hague</i>, when he was called to
+this City, where he has the Pleasure of being as much esteem’d and
+follow’d by his Flock, as he was by that which he left.</p>
+
+<p>I have many other Things to acquaint you with, but upon my Word, I can
+write no more at present, my Pen falling out of my Hand. I shall resume it
+however against next Post, not so much to tell you of <i>Amsterdam</i>, as to
+assure you that no body can be more intirely yours, than I am, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--387.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">384</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i004.png" width="400" height="68" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER LI.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Amsterdam, Dec. 7, 1732.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since the Weather is set in for Frost, I keep my Station upon the Ice, to
+see the People slide upon Skates; a favourite Exercise of the <i>Dutch</i>, in
+which they acquit themselves with marvellous Dexterity. These Skates are a
+very little smooth Piece of Wood, like a Weaver’s Shuttle, except that the
+Part on which the Heel and the Sole of the Shoe rest most, is a little
+broader. The Remainder of it is slender and crooked at the End, that the
+Iron which is underneath may the better cleave the Snow, and that they may
+with the more Ease surmount the Obstacles and little Hillocks in the Ice,
+over which they pass with great Rapidity, but not without Danger of
+breaking their Legs or Arms, and often of being drowned. The <i>Dutch</i> are
+less exposed to these Inconveniencies than others, because they are most
+expert in the Art; for they learn to skate when they can scarce go alone.
+This is rather the Diversion of the common People, and of the lusty young
+Fellows, than of the Gentry, or of Men full-grown. These go in Sleds,
+after the Manner of our Country, which is what they call here <i>Narren</i>;
+<i>i. e.</i> to play the Fool: And indeed, to consider it duly, I think ’tis a
+right Name for it.</p>
+
+<p>The Place where I take the Air, is upon the River of <i>Amstel</i>, without the
+Gate of
+<i>Utrecht</i>,<!--388.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span>
+where I see several Thousands of People scudding along
+upon Skates, so fast that they seem to fly. If one of these Skaters was to
+be seen in <i>Swisserland</i>, I know not whether he would not suffer the Fate
+of <i>Brioche</i>, the Puppet-Show Man, whom the People of those Cantons burned
+for a Conjurer.</p>
+
+<p>These Skaters are a great Relief to me; for to tell you a Secret, I am
+quite sick of this City, which really is not a Place for a Man to live in,
+that is not concerned in Trade; and a Foreigner especially, knows not how
+to bestow himself. He can find nowhere to go but to some sorry
+Coffee-house, or melancholy Walk. In the one he is sure to be <i>incens’d</i>
+with Tobacco, and stunned with wretched Commentaries upon News-Papers or
+the Price of Pepper and Ginger; in the other he is as solitary as a
+Hermit. Their Comedies are but a poor Relief to such as don’t understand
+<i>Dutch</i>, which besides is a Language that I think is not very fit for the
+Stage, any more than ours. I thought the Actors pitiful, and the Habits
+trifling; but the Decorations are fine, and the Theatre spacious and
+magnificent. I can’t imagine why the Magistrates will not let <i>French</i>
+Comedies be acted in their City, where I think they would do more Good
+than Harm; for they would help to polish the Youth, and would undoubtedly
+keep them from that Temptation to Debauchery, to which Idleness, and the
+Difficulty of knowing where to spend the Evenings, naturally incline them.
+I heard <i>d’Argenson</i>, the late Keeper of the Seals say, he had observed,
+while he was Lieutenant of the Police at <i>Paris</i>, that there were more
+Disorders and Debaucheries committed in that City, during the Fortnight at
+<i>Easter</i>, when the Theatres were shut up, than were committed in four
+Months, while all Shows
+were<!--389.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span>
+kept open. I doubt not but it would be the
+same at <i>Amsterdam</i>, where there is a numerous Youth, for whom the Parents
+are blindly complaisant, and ready to kill the fatted Calf; so that being
+left to their own Devices, and having in general but few Maxims of
+Education, they run with the Stream of their Passions into all
+Extravagancies. These young Fellows, who prefer the Exercise of driving a
+Chaise before all others, set up in the mean Time for fine Gentlemen; but
+how well they perform their Part, I leave you to think.</p>
+
+<p>The Assemblies, or Societies, as they are here called, have nothing that
+is engaging. You see very fine Faces there, but not a Tongue moves, at
+least to a Foreigner, the very Sight of whom seems to frighten them. Here
+they drink Tea, or play a Game at Ombre, or Quadrille, and afterwards go
+in quest of a Supper.</p>
+
+<p>Those Societies, or Clubs, where there are no Ladies, are still worse. In
+these they smoke and drink in Abundance, talk of Trade or Politicks; and
+at such Times, woe be to those Powers that have forbid the Importation of
+<i>Dutch</i> Toys into their Dominions. The only Remedy here against Chagrin,
+is Reading, of which a Man may have his Heartful; for <i>Amsterdam</i> is not
+only the Centre of the Bookselling Trade, but here are Book-sellers, that
+are very ready to lend Books to such, who, like myself, cannot be at the
+Charge of a Library. I divide my Time between Reading, the Coffee-house,
+and taking the Air, the latter of which I use very moderately, one being
+obliged to go so far for it, that I think of it at least four times before
+I set out. The Canals, such as the <i>Heers-Gracht</i>, and the
+<i>Keizers-Gracht</i>, are pleasant Walks in the Town, because they are planted
+with Trees; but they are indifferently paved. Upon these two Canals, live
+Persons of the
+greatest<!--390.png--><span class="pagenum">387</span>
+Distinction, or rather those of the greatest
+Wealth in the City.</p>
+
+<p>One of the finest Walks in it is the Bridge, which joins the Rampart from
+one Side of the <i>Amstel</i> to the other. ’Tis six hundred and fifty Feet in
+Length, and seventy in Breadth; and here one enjoys an admirable Prospect,
+which is the only one perhaps that can be compared with the View from
+<i>Pont-Royal</i> at <i>Paris</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Admiralty, with its Precinct, forms a little Town. ’Tis one of the
+Arsenals of the <i>Dutch</i> Navy. Here one actually sees Seventy Men of War,
+and Materials for building a much greater Number. With the Leave of the
+<i>Venetians</i>, their Arsenal, so much boasted, is by no means comparable to
+this, with regard to Naval Stores.</p>
+
+<p>The Admiralty Office is so near the <i>India</i> Company’s Warehouse, that I am
+tempted to give you some Account of a House which contains such a
+Treasure. ’Tis a very great Structure of several Stories, distributed into
+divers Chambers, or Rooms, where there is a prodigious Quantity of all
+manner of Spices, of which the most common Sorts lie in Heaps as Corn does
+in our Granaries. There are also a great many other Things of Value; and
+in a Word, every Thing, be it ever so precious, that comes from the
+<i>Indies</i>. After I had walked about an Hour in this Warehouse, I was, as it
+were, embalmed with the Odour of all the different Spices, which made my
+Head ake exceedingly, or else I should have thought myself metamorphosed
+into a Mummy; but jesting apart, I fancy that were a Carcase to be
+deposited in this House, it would be free from Corruption. The <i>India</i>
+Company is properly a Republick, within the Republic itself. It arms,
+disarms, raises and disbands Officers and Soldiers, without being
+accomptable to the State. It
+maintains<!--391.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span>
+a Governor in the <i>Indies</i>, who
+lives there with more Pomp and Grandeur than his Masters do here. As a
+<i>Neapolitan</i> Lady at <i>Madrid</i> wish’d <i>Philip</i> IV. <i>that he might one Day
+be Viceroy of</i> Naples, so it might be said to a Director of the
+<i>East-India</i> Company, <i>I wish you may be one Day Governor of</i> Batavia.</p>
+
+<p>I don’t give you an Account of the Houses of Correction, nor of the
+Hospitals, of which here are a great Number well founded, and well
+maintained, because I have an extraordinary Antipathy to Prisons, and
+dread the very Name of an Hospital, to which however I perceive that I am
+making great Strides; but it will be Time enough for me to give you an
+Account of those Mansions, when I have fixed my Quarters there. A
+Description of a Synagogue would not, I believe, be material to you;
+therefore I shall only acquaint you, that here are two, one for the
+<i>Portuguese</i> Jews, which is very fine, the other for the <i>German</i> Jews.
+They are both Jews alike, but differ in their Taste and Sentiments. The
+<i>Portuguese</i> Jews are the handsomest of the two, for they shave their
+Beards, and some of them are very genteel. I was shew’d one the other Day,
+who was a smart young Fellow, and might, have cut a Figure among the
+Petits-Maîtres. I was told, that he had been educated in our Religion, and
+that he seemed to be fond of it; but being at <i>Paris</i>, in the Retinue of
+M. ***, Ambassador of ***, he ran away from that Minister’s Service, and
+came to <i>Amsterdam</i>, where he turned as staunch a Jew as if he had never
+heard the Name of Jesus Christ.</p>
+
+<p>Near the Jews Quarter there is the Garden of Simples. I am not Botanist
+enough to tell you what Plants it contains; but have been assured, that
+’tis one of the finest in <i>Europe</i> for
+foreign<!--392.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span>
+Plants, which, considering
+the great Trade that is carried on by the <i>Dutch</i>, is not improbable.</p>
+
+<p>When I have told you, that the public Walk, which they call <i>The
+Plantation</i>, is near this Garden, and that it consists of several fine
+Rows of Trees, one of which is cut out in the Shape of a Fan, I shall
+think that I have not omitted giving you the minutest of my Remarks on the
+Inside of <i>Amsterdam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Suburbs of this great City, in which ’tis said there are about five
+hundred thousand Souls (as many as are in <i>Naples</i>) are extremely
+populous. There are above eight hundred Windmills continually at Work, in
+grinding Corn, or sawing of Timber. On the other Side of the Harbour,
+there are several Villages, of which <i>Sardam</i> is the most considerable,
+not only for its Size, in which it surpasses many Towns, but for the
+Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are called Peasants, and pretend to be
+nothing else, tho’ I can’t imagine why; for they trade and make a Figure
+here upon the Exchange, like the most substantial Merchants, and don’t
+apply themselves to Agriculture. I have been told, that there are above a
+thousand Windmills at <i>Sardam</i>, always employed in sawing of Timber; which
+would have been a rare Field for <i>Don Quixot</i> to have display’d his
+Valour. That Neatness of which the <i>Dutch</i> are so fond, is cultivated to
+the greatest Nicety in this Village; and the <i>Amsterdammers</i> themselves
+cannot but own and admire it.</p>
+
+<p>The Peasants of <i>Sardam</i> dress more like the Citizens of <i>Amsterdam</i> than
+those of the other Villages in these Parts do, whose Apparel is of a very
+extraordinary Fashion. They wear monstrous large Trowsers, wide enough to
+make some People a whole Suit. Under this Trowser there is another Pair of
+Breeches, and perhaps a
+third,<!--393.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span>
+or else a Pair of Drawers; and to the two
+Pair of Breeches which are in Sight, they have solid Plate Buttons bigger
+than a Crown piece, They also wear four or five Waistcoats, one over the
+other, which are set so thick with silver Buttons that they perfectly
+touch one another. Over all this Cloathing they have a dark-colour’d
+Surtout or Doublet, which keeps them extremely tight downward, and
+therefore all their Waistcoats ride up, so that they seem to have Breasts
+like Women. Their Shoes are Seamen-like, or, with Reverence be it spoken,
+such as are now worn by the <i>French</i> Petits Maitres. They have also silver
+Buckles, but so large that they are fitter for the Harness of Horses than
+for Shoes. I assure you, that if the <i>Romans</i> had been dressed like these
+Peasants, the <i>Carthaginians</i> would have taken a richer Booty in silver
+Buttons than they did at the Battle of <i>Cannæ</i>, when they took that Heap
+of <i>Roman</i> Rings. The Women also wear a small Equipage of Gold and Silver.
+They have gold Ear-pendants, a Bodkin of the same which fastens their
+Caps, Chains about their Necks, in Form of Pearl Necklaces, great Rings,
+and in all this there’s no Expence grudged.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Sardamers</i> are so very much wedded to their ancient Habit, that a
+Father once refused to own his Son, because having been for some Years in
+<i>France</i>, he came to wait on him upon the Exchange of <i>Amsterdam</i>, in a
+Suit of Cloaths bedawb’d with gold Lace. Young <i>Calf</i>, which was the
+Peasant’s Name, arriving at <i>Amsterdam</i> about Change-Time, went thither,
+supposing he should find his Father there, in which he was not mistaken,
+and he ran to embrace him; but the Father pushing him away, ask’d him what
+he wanted, and told him that he did not think he had the Honour to be
+known to him, and that probably he was mistaken in his Man. The Son’s
+calling him
+Father,<!--394.png--><span class="pagenum">391</span>
+signify’d nothing. Old <i>Calf</i> being inexorable,
+interrupted him, saying, <i>I your Father! I have but one Son, who is such a
+Peasant as I am, and not a Lord, as you seem to be</i>. The young Fellow
+perceived that his Father took Umbrage as his Dress; therefore he went to
+a public House, sent for Cloaths after the <i>Sardam</i> Mode, and having thus
+equipped himself, went upon the Exchange next Day, where his Father
+received him with all the Tokens of the most endearing Tenderness. After
+that Day, young <i>Calf</i>, who went in <i>France</i> by the Name of <i>de Veau</i>
+(which is the Signification of his Name translated into <i>French</i>) always
+continued to dress in this Manner. This gave Occasion some Years ago to a
+very pleasant Adventure: A <i>Frenchman</i> who had known M. <i>Calf</i> at <i>Paris</i>
+by the Name of <i>de Veau</i>, coming to <i>Amsterdam</i>, inquired every-where for
+M. <i>de Veau</i>, who he said was a very rich Nobleman, of high Rank, as he
+guessed by his Train of Attendants. It was a long Time before he could
+hear any Tidings of him, because few People knew that young <i>Calf</i> had
+frenchified his Name in foreign Countries. At length a <i>Frenchman</i>, who
+was settled at <i>Amsterdam</i>, offered the <i>Parisian</i> to find out his Friend
+for him. For this Purpose he carried him to the Exchange; and pointing to
+M. <i>Calf</i>, <i>Stop</i>, said he to him, <i>there’s the Man you are looking for</i>.
+The <i>Frenchman</i>, who did not know M. <i>de Veau</i> in his Country Garb,
+thought that his Guide bantered him. <i>Parbleu Mons.</i> said he, <i>I told you
+plain enough, that the Person I want is a Nobleman, and not a Peasant</i>. M.
+<i>Calf</i> hearing the Foreigner speak, and knowing him at first Sight, went
+up to him, and welcomed him upon his Arrival in <i>Holland</i>. The <i>Frenchman</i>
+knew him instantly by his Voice, but thought himself in a Trance, because
+he could not imagine how
+’twas<!--395.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">392</a></span>
+possible for a Person whom he had known a
+Nobleman in <i>France</i>, to be a Peasant in <i>Holland</i>. M. <i>Calf</i> explained
+the Mystery of it to him however, as far as was convenient, considering
+the Place where they were, and desired his Company to <i>Sardam</i>. The
+<i>Frenchman</i> went accordingly, and when he came thither, ’twas a fresh
+Matter of Surprise to him to see the Peasant had the House and Furniture
+of a Nobleman. M. <i>Calf</i> shew’d him, that tho’ he had laid aside the Garb,
+he had not renounced the Politeness of the <i>French</i>, entertained him with
+good Chear for several Days, and then sent him back highly delighted to
+<i>Amsterdam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Village of <i>Sardam</i> being in North <i>Holland</i>, I cannot avoid giving
+you some Account of this Nook of that Province. Here is a perfect
+Miscellany of Meadows, Canals, Country Houses, Gardens, great Villages,
+and good Towns, an Uniformity of Beauties, which is only disagreeable by
+being continued. He that sees one Town or House, sees all, and so of the
+rest. The principal Towns of this Canton are <i>Horne</i>, <i>Alcmaer</i>, and
+<i>Enckbuysen</i>, which are all built with the same Neatness, but have nothing
+of Magnificence belonging to them, except it be the Walks at their Gates.
+All these Places are so deserted, that it would take up the <i>Emigrants</i> of
+three or four Bishopricks to people them. Their Trade decays, <i>Amsterdam</i>
+being the Loadstone that draws all to it. This Part of the Province of
+<i>Holland</i> is very much infested with Worms which eat into the very Stakes
+pf the Dykes. The People are in Hopes that the Frost will kill them, and
+put an End to a Calamity which is one of the worst that can befal this
+Country. It is not certain how these Insects breed, nor whether it be in
+the Sea, or in the Timber itself: One would imagine from
+some<!--396.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">393</a></span>
+little
+external Specks of the infested Stakes, these Worms must breed in the Sea,
+and from thence make their Way into the Wood, no bigger than Needles,
+after which they grow as big as the Silkworm, and gnaw the Inside of the
+Timber, in such a Manner that it looks like a Honeycomb. The Spoil they
+make is said to be in those Parts only of the Stake which are under Water.
+The Damage they have done to the Dykes is very considerable, and has so
+very much alarmed the States, that they have prohibited Plays, &amp;c. at the
+<i>Hague</i>, and ordered public Prayers. A great many People pretend that this
+Province was visited by such a Scourge fifty or sixty Years ago, and that
+it was delivered from it by a Sort of Fish, that have never been seen
+since, which devoured all those Worms. Others treat this as a Fable, and
+say, that such Insects were never known, much less the Fish by which they
+were devoured. Be this as it will, several Treatises will shortly be
+published, to shew the Origin, Nature and Progress of the present Species
+of Worms. If I am not mistaken, these Books will point out the Method, and
+the Remedies proper for destroying them; and if any of ’em are printed
+before I depart this Country, I will not fail to send them to you.</p>
+
+<p>For the rest, I cannot say that I have had any other Satisfaction in my
+Tour to North <i>Holland</i> than the Gratification of Sight; for Company does
+not seem to be the Taste of the Country. I never stirred out but every
+body took me for a very odd kind of a Man: Yet I am no Petit-Maître; nor
+is there any Thing uncommon in my Make. The Sex in this out-of-the-way
+Country is very handsome, and here are Country Lasses who have a delicate
+Complexion, not inferior to the finest Ladies. These Sylvan Beauties are
+generally
+fair,<!--397.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">394</a></span>
+and have such a languishing Look, that I guess they would
+not prove unkind to any young Faun that courted them. For my own Part, who
+am too far advanced in Years to attempt an Intrigue with ’em, I content
+myself with admiring these beautiful Nymphs, whose Favours would perhaps
+rather mortify than gratify me, and which in either Case, I should not
+prefer to the Honour of your Friendship; a Thing to me of Price
+inestimable. Of this I beg the Continuance, and flatter myself, that I
+deserve it by the Attachment with which I am, <i>&amp;c.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER LII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>Helvoetsluys, Feb. 2, 1733.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Being detained in this Port by Winds that have for these six Days
+obstinately opposed my Passage to <i>England</i>, without any Prospect of their
+changing, I am at full Leisure to inform you of such Things as I have seen
+since the last Letter that I had the Honour to write to you from
+<i>Amsterdam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I was carried from that City in the Boat in less than three Hours to
+<span class="smcap">Harlem</span>, the second of those Towns that have a Right to send Deputies to
+the Assembly of the States of the Province. It was for a long Time the
+Rival of <i>Amsterdam</i>, and actually at War with it, but could not hinder
+its Aggrandisement. While those Provinces fought for their Liberty,
+<i>Harlem</i> was besieged, taken and plunder’d by the <i>Spaniards</i>, against
+whom the
+very<!--398.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">395</a></span>
+Women bore Arms. In 1559, Pope <i>Paul</i> IV. erected this Town
+into a Bishoprick, but it never had more than two Bishops. The Splendor of
+it is owing to its Manufactures, which consist of Silk-Stuffs, Cambrics,
+strip’d Dimities, and Thread Stockings. Its Whitsters also bring a great
+Revenue to this Town. The Florists cannot fail of being agreeably amused
+here, by reason of Flowers of such Beauty, that I have been assured a
+Tulip-Root has been sold there for fourteen hundred Florins. But the
+greatest Honour of <i>Harlem</i> is to have given Birth to <i>Laurence Coster</i>,
+the Inventor of Printing. I am not ignorant that <i>Mentz</i> disputes with
+<i>Harlem</i> for the Honour of that Invention, but this being a Controversy
+which ’tis none of my Province to determine, I sincerely believe, when I
+am at <i>Harlem</i>, that <i>Coster</i> is the Inventor of this wonderful Art,
+provided I may be at Liberty to believe the contrary when I am at <i>Mentz</i>,
+and to be uncertain of the Matter everywhere else. <i>Coster</i>’s House is to
+be seen here with the following Inscription placed Over the Gate, which
+denotes, that <i>Printing</i>, the <span class="smcap">Best Art</span> for perpetuating the other Arts,
+was first invented here about <i>Anno</i> 1440.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">Memoriæ Sacrum.<br />
+Typographia,<br />
+Ars Artium Optima,<br />
+Conservatrix,<br />
+Hic Primum Inventa<br />
+Circa Annum MCCCCXL.</span></div>
+
+<p>In order to reconcile the two Towns, I believe it might be granted, that
+<i>Coster</i> invented the Art of Cutting in Wood, which was formerly made use
+of, and that <i>John Faustus</i> of <i>Mentz</i> invented the Characters of Metal,
+that are used now. By this Means the two Parties will have equal
+Share<!--399.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">396</a></span>
+in
+the Glory of the Invention, which after all is disputed with them by the
+<i>Chinese</i>, who prove that the Art of Printing was known to them two
+thousand Years ago.</p>
+
+<p>As I walked about in <i>Harlem</i>, my Guide bid me look at certain Cambrick
+Cockades trimm’d with Lace, which were tied to some of the Doors. He told
+me, that this was to shew that the Woman of the House was in Childbed;
+which procures the Husband a Protection, so that he cannot be arrested
+during six Weeks that his Wife is supposed to lye-in. What was the
+Occasion of the Grant of this Privilege, I could not learn, nor by what
+Prince it was granted.</p>
+
+<p>The Walks of <i>Harlem</i>, especially that in the Wood, which is at the Gates
+or the Town, would be charming, if they were not so sandy. On the other
+Hand, the Canal which leads from this Town to <i>Leyden</i>, is one of the most
+disagreeable in the Province, there being scarce any Thing upon its Banks
+but Meadows and Downs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Leyden</span> is one of the largest and finest Cities in the Country. It has been
+subject, as all sublunary Things are, to great Revolutions and
+Misfortunes. The <i>Spaniards</i> besieged it in 1573, and as they despaired of
+taking it by Force, they intended to reduce it by Famine. The Inhabitants
+were drove to the utmost Misery, till they pierced the Dykes of the
+<i>Maese</i>, and the <i>Issel</i>, by which Means all the great Meadows about
+<i>Leyden</i> became a perfect Sea of Water, and the <i>Spaniards</i>, in Danger of
+perishing, raised the Siege: And the 3d of <i>October</i> is annually observed
+with Rejoicings in Memory of the Deliverance of the Town upon that Day of
+the Month.</p>
+
+<p>The great Church, dedicated to St. <i>Peter</i>, is one of the finest
+Structures in <i>Holland</i>. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall
+Pillars.<!--400.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">397</a></span>
+All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy,
+and a great many have Canals. ’Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number
+of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the
+meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are
+not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay’d, since the
+Importation of Cloth from <i>Holland</i> has been prohibited by some of its
+neighbouring States.</p>
+
+<p>The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually
+three great Men for Professors, <i>Vitriarius</i> for the Civil Law,
+<i>Boerhaave</i> for Physic, and <i>s’Gravesande</i> for the Mathematics. The first
+is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing
+himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of <i>Bohemia</i> and <i>Austria</i>
+to <i>Leyden</i>. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of <i>England</i>
+excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir’d
+than they are at <i>Leyden</i>: Nor is there any Place more proper for
+Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how
+they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here
+don’t value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in
+<i>Germany</i>; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is
+also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came
+thro’ this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease
+in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look
+like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much
+describ’d, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches
+here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven
+Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.</p>
+
+<!--401.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">398</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Passage from <i>Leyden</i> to the <i>Hague</i>, whether by Land, or by the
+Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and
+fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that
+these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.</p>
+
+<p>The <span class="smcap">Hague</span>, which is called a Village, because ’tis not inclosed, and sends
+no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless
+a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is
+certainly one of the finest in <i>Europe</i>. The States General, as well as
+those of this Province, assemble here, and ’tis the Place of Residence for
+the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of <i>Holland</i> lived here.
+Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their
+Court here; and the <i>Hague</i>, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned
+for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more
+genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the
+other Parts of <i>Holland</i>. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does
+not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have
+something more engaging than mere Beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho’ perhaps not so
+magnificent as those at <i>Amsterdam</i>; and here are some Palaces with
+Gardens.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace which they call <i>the Court</i>, was anciently the Residence of its
+Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric,
+consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There
+meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of <i>Holland</i>,
+the Council of Nobles, and that of the <i>Gecommitteer de Raden</i>, or Deputy
+Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their
+Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms,
+one<!--402.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">399</a></span>
+of which is called the
+<i>Chamber of the Truce</i>, because the Truce for twelve Years was there
+concluded with <i>Spain</i>. ’Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience
+to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace,
+in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies
+of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for
+lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their
+Expence. It was built by Prince <i>Maurice</i> of <i>Nassau</i>, after he returned
+from his Government at <i>Brasil</i>, and he adorned it with all the Rarities
+that are the Production of the <i>Indies</i>. But all these Things, as well as
+the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the
+Duke of <i>Marlborough</i> set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the
+Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this
+House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho’
+’tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of the <i>Old Court</i> belonging to the King of <i>Prussia</i>, because
+it fell to <i>Frederic</i> I. by Inheritance from King <i>William</i> III. is a
+large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced
+Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron
+Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are
+large and commodious, and there’s a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings
+by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much
+embellished by the late King of <i>Prussia</i>, who gave Leave for all People
+of Fashion to see it; but ’tis now neglected. The King’s Minister, and
+the<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> Count <i>de Hompesch</i>, General of the States
+Cavalry,<!--403.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">400</a></span>
+have
+Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you,
+which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things
+that are needless.</p>
+
+<p>The Situation of the <i>Hague</i> is very different from that of the other
+Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there’s every Thing that
+forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved
+With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to
+<i>Scheveling</i>, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the <i>Hague</i>. ’Tis
+a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees
+interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The <i>Delft</i> Road, and that which leads
+to <i>Loosduinen</i>, one or two Leagues from the <i>Hague</i>, are also very
+beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks,
+and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That
+called the <i>Voorbout</i> is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the
+Coaches. There’s a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in,
+where in all the Summer Evenings there’s very fine Company. ’Twas
+<i>Charles</i> V. that embellished the <i>Hague</i> with this Walk. It has
+occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the
+most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. <i>de Thou</i>, the
+<i>French</i> Ambassador, and M. <i>de Gamarre</i>, the Ambassador of <i>Spain</i>. These
+two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they
+met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were
+just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States,
+who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their
+Mediation, and proposed to both of ’em to return back at that very Instant
+by the
+same<!--404.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">401</a></span>
+Way they came. M. <i>de Gamarre</i> was very ready to comply with
+any Proposal; but M. <i>de Thou</i> refused every one, and would by no means
+admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of <i>Spain</i>. The
+Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by
+several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. <i>de
+Beverwert</i>, the first of the Nobles of the Province of <i>Holland</i>, after
+having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no
+purpose, seeing M. <i>de Thou</i> obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage,
+proposed at last to M. <i>de Gamarre</i>, to drive off across the Ring; and for
+doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two
+Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would
+have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The
+<i>Spanish</i> Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the
+Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States,
+might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased
+themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained <i>the vain Honours of
+Precedency</i>; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho’ in short, if there were any
+Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of <i>France</i>, because he
+obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he
+finished his Carrier, while the <i>Spaniard</i> returned home, perhaps because
+they had disputed so long till Night overtook them.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>French</i>, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the
+most Disputes about this Matter. The Count <i>d’Estrades</i>, the Embassador of
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV. had one in this same <i>Voorbout</i>, with the Prince of <i>Orange</i>,
+afterwards King of <i>Great Britain</i>. Their Coaches happened to meet, and
+each of ’em aiming at the Post of
+Honour,<!--405.png--><span class="pagenum">402</span>
+they stopped over-against one
+another. The Ambassador’s Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined
+by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of
+the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been
+very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock’d together for
+the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to
+prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him,
+<i>I know not what the Prince’s People mean; I was ignorant till now, that
+the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign</i> (implying that the Ambassadors
+only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess
+Dowager of <i>Orange</i>, to know whether the Prince’s Governor was not more to
+blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That
+’twas the King of <i>England</i>’s Business to concern himself in the Affair;
+for she imagin’d, that his <i>Britannic</i> Majesty was bound in Interest to
+support the Dignity of his Nephew’s Rank. Nevertheless, she follow’d the
+Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the
+Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made
+his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador’s passed into the Rank which
+he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince’s
+Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary,
+they went a League from the <i>Hague</i> to receive them, on the Part of the
+States; insomuch that <i>Frederic-Henry</i> the Prince’s Grandfather, tho’ upon
+Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not
+take the first Place. <i>Charles</i> II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being
+sold to <i>France</i>, he did not stand up for his Nephew’s interests.</p>
+
+<!--406.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">403</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of
+such Foreign Ministers as reside at the <i>Hague</i>.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Fenelon</i>, Brigadier of the <i>French</i> King’s Armies, is his most
+Christian Majesty’s Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is
+Nephew to the Great <i>Fenelon</i>, Archbishop of <i>Cambray</i>. He is esteemed for
+his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His
+Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the
+Inhabitants of the <i>Hague</i>, who have not forgot what was spent among them
+by my Lord <i>Chesterfield</i>, Ambassador from <i>Great Britain</i>, one of the
+most sumptuous Noblemen in <i>England</i>, who was perfectly adored by the
+common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of
+Distinction.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Sinzendorff</i>, the Emperor’s Plenipotentiary, has a great
+Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great
+<i>Sinzendorff</i>, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that
+he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so
+successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and
+the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the <i>Ostend</i>
+Company, and to get the <i>Pragmatic Sanction</i> guaranteed by their<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> High
+Mightinesses.</p>
+
+<!--407.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">404</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Golofskin</i> is Plenipotentiary Minister of <i>Russia</i>, which
+Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He
+is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He
+passed his Youth at <i>Berlin</i>, and performed his Exercises at the Academy
+founded by the late King <i>Frederic</i> I. He was afterwards several Years
+Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar <i>Peter the Great</i>, and from the
+late Empress <i>Catharine</i> to the Court of <i>Prussia</i>; from which Court the
+present Empress <i>Anne</i> sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of
+<i>France</i>: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign’s Affairs with
+the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While
+he resided at <i>Berlin</i>, he there married the Daughter of the late Count
+<i>Ferassier de Dhona</i>, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of
+<i>Denain</i>, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the
+Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and
+she has the most charming Family that is to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Masch</i>, Envoy from the King of <i>Prussia</i>, is a very fit Person to
+manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a
+Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him
+Governor to the Princes of <i>Brandenbourg Culmbach</i>, the eldest of whom is
+actually the Prince Regent of <i>Bareith</i>. M. <i>de Masch</i> has inspired those
+Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor
+of the Regency of <i>Cleves</i>, when the King sent him into this Country,
+where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had
+subsisted<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a>
+between<!--408.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">405</a></span>
+his <i>Prussian</i> Majesty, and the Prince of <i>Nassau
+Orange</i>, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King
+<i>William</i> III.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Brosse</i>, a <i>Frenchman</i> by Birth, manages Affairs here for
+the<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a>King of <i>Poland</i>, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has
+acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his
+fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless,
+he makes a grand Appearance.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Sporck</i>, Minister here from the King of <i>Great Britain</i>, as Elector
+of <i>Brunswic-Lunenbourg</i>, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very
+young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his
+Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of <i>Holland</i>, one of the wisest
+Ministers of his Time, ’tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress.
+He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does
+the Honours of her Family to Perfection.</p>
+
+<p>I am not acquainted with the Envoys of<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a><i>Sweden</i> and<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a><i>Denmark</i>. M.
+<i>d’Ayrolles</i> takes care of the Interests of the King of <i>Great Britain</i>,
+and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business.</p>
+
+<!--409.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">406</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Don <i>Lewis d’Acunha</i>, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of
+<i>Portugal</i>, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important
+Embassies. He was his Majesty’s second Ambassador at the Congress of
+<i>Utrecht</i>, which Employment he afterwards had in <i>England</i>, then in
+<i>France</i>, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his
+Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty
+Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was
+younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers
+who reside at the <i>Hague</i>. Those of the States are not many. M. <i>de
+Slingeland</i> the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of ’em. The consummate
+Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets
+of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one
+of its principal Pillars, and <i>Europe</i> ranks him amongst its greatest
+Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the
+<i>Hague</i> was what <i>Rome</i> was formerly under a <i>Sixtus</i> V. the Centre of
+Politics. He succeeded the late M. <i>Hoornbeck</i> in the Office which he now
+holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation.
+Tho’ he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout,
+he gives Application to Business<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>His Second is the <i>Gressier Fagel</i>, one of the greatest Genius’s of the
+State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his
+Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which
+accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a
+Library, which is a most learned
+Collection;<!--410.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">407</a></span>
+and a Cabinet of Medals, and
+of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done
+by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious
+Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he
+takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. ’Tis pity that this
+Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced,
+cannot live for ever.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis certain that the <i>Hague</i> contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of
+both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of
+Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were
+I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my
+Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of
+such only as make the greatest Figure at the <i>Hague</i>, either on Account of
+their Employments, or their Birth.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Hague</i> is the best Place in <i>Europe</i> for a Foreigner to make a good
+Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or
+Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so
+little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to
+Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this
+Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady <i>Albemarle</i>, M. <i>de Keppel</i>,
+and the Count <i>de Welderen</i>. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of
+<i>Albemarle</i>, General of the <i>Dutch</i> Infantry, Colonel of the <i>Swiss</i>,
+Governor of <i>Tournay</i>, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of
+the <i>Keppel</i> Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these
+Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of <i>Orange</i>, who, when he came
+to be King of <i>Great Britain</i>, created him a Peer of <i>England</i>, with the
+Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and
+Honours<!--411.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">408</a></span>
+upon him, and it may be
+said, that my Lord <i>Albemarle</i>, and my Lord <i>Portland</i>, were two Noblemen
+for whom <i>William</i> III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord
+<i>Albemarle</i> maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his
+Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any
+Thing, but to leave every thing to the King’s voluntary Grace and Favour.
+This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in <i>England</i>. The Lady
+his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs <i>Vander Duin</i>, Nobles of this
+Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as
+the first Lady of the <i>Hague</i>.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Keppel</i><a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a>, the Brother of the late Earl of <i>Albemarle</i>, is a
+Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment
+of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High
+Mightinesses to the Court of <i>Prussia</i>. He lives very grand at the
+<i>Hague</i>, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear
+a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame <i>de Keppel</i>,
+heretofore <i>Welderen</i>, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible,
+and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count <i>de Welderen</i>,
+Deputy of the Province of <i>Guelderland</i>, to the States General, is not
+inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a
+Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after
+appointed Ambassador to <i>England</i>, in order to
+congratulate<!--412.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">409</a></span>
+their
+<i>Britannic</i> Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in
+<i>England</i> was very splendid, but the <i>English</i> did not so much mind the
+young Ambassador’s Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back
+with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of <i>England</i>, the
+Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of <i>London</i>. At
+his Return to the <i>Hague</i>, the Count <i>de Welderen</i> resumed his Seat in the
+Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his
+House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a
+Member of the Council of State, (they call him the <i>Waldgrave</i>) who is a
+young Gentleman of great Merit.</p>
+
+<p>My Lady <i>Cadogan</i>, the Dowager of my Lord <i>Cadogan</i>, a trusty Friend of
+the late Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>, and his Successor in his Employments,
+keeps an Assembly every <i>Sunday</i> Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of
+<i>Richmond</i>, who is look’d upon at the Court of <i>England</i>, as one of its
+Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, <i>viz.</i> my Lady <i>Margaret</i>, one of
+the most amiable Ladies at the <i>Hague</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Countess <i>de Wartemberg</i>, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of
+<i>Frederic</i> I. King of <i>Prussia</i>, lives retired at the <i>Hague</i>, much after
+the same Manner as the Duchess of <i>Mazarine</i> did at <i>London</i>. She turns
+Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners,
+and there is very great<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a>Play. But she is not
+so<!--413.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">410</a></span>
+fond as the Duchess
+of <i>Mazarine</i> was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a <i>St.
+Evremond</i> wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always
+give the Preference to a young <i>Alcides</i>.</p>
+
+<p>By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir,
+that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There
+is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another
+alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they
+being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of
+the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The
+Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an
+<i>Hebrew</i> Anti-Comedian has sent for from <i>Paris</i>, on Purpose to ruin the
+Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a
+zealous Man
+for<!--414.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">411</a></span>
+the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector
+should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the
+<i>Hague</i> are Parties in this great Quarrel; but ’tis my Opinion, that in
+order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the
+other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens
+of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does
+not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they
+are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the
+Police<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>You will, no doubt, think it a Phænomenon, to find that a <i>Hebrew</i>, whom
+in <i>Germany</i> we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither
+very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the
+Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste:
+But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government
+upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the
+<i>Portugueze</i> Jews, they deserve it; for a <i>Texeyra</i>, a <i>Schwartzo</i>, a
+<i>Dulis</i>, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most
+virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would
+take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their
+Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at
+their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and
+differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue.</p>
+
+<!--415.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">412</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Nobles of the greatest Distinction in the Province, are the
+<i>Wassenaars</i>, and the <i>Boetselaars</i>.<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> The former are divided into
+several Branches, whereof that of <i>Obdam</i> is the eldest. The Emperor
+<i>Charles</i> III. raised this Branch to the Dignity of Count of the Empire.
+The present Count <i>d’Obdam</i> is Grandson to the famous Admiral of that
+Name, who delivered <i>Copenhagen</i>, and in Gratitude for whose Services, the
+King of <i>Denmark</i> conferred the Order of the Elephant upon him, which no
+Foreigner had been honour’d with before, unless he were a Prince. After
+this Admiral’s Death, the same Order descended to his Son, who died a
+Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Service of
+the Republic. The present Count <i>d’Obdam</i> is Knight of the Order of St.
+<i>John</i>, and, together with his<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> Brother, is of distinguish’d Rank in
+this Government. He spent Part of his Youth at the Court of <i>Berlin</i>,
+where his Father was Envoy Extraordinary. At that Time nobody was so brisk
+and gay; but he is thoroughly changed, and lives now very much retired,
+and applies himself wholly to Devotion and Business.</p>
+
+<p>Of the Blood of <i>Nassau Orange</i>, those Princes, Founders of the Republic,
+there remains no more than one young Prince, besides the Counts
+<i>d’Auverquerque</i>, <i>Zeist</i> and <i>Laleck</i>, who are by the Left Venter. The
+Prince is Hereditary Stadtholder of <i>Frieseland</i>, Stadtholder of
+<i>Groningen</i>, Stadtholder and Captain General of the Province of
+<!--416.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">413</a></span><i>Guelderland</i>,
+and the Country of <i>Drente</i>. He bids fair some Day or
+other to be a worthy Possessor of the Station of the Princes whose Name he
+bears<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Maurice</i>, Count <i>d’Auverquerque</i>, is the Son of a Peer of <i>Great
+Britain</i>, who was promoted to that Dignity by King <i>William</i> III.<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> He
+is a Major General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons. He is a
+Nobleman of distinguished Merit, and signalized himself very much in the
+last War.</p>
+
+<p>M. <i>de Zeist</i>, one of the richest Nobles of this Province, is Deputy of
+the Province of <i>Utrecht</i>, in which he has a great Estate.</p>
+
+<p>The Count <i>de Laleck</i> is the oldest Lieutenant General of Horse in the
+Service of the States. He has a Regiment, and is Governor of <i>Menin</i>, one
+of the Barrier Towns. The three last-mentioned Counts are Cousins, and
+form three Branches. They are descended from Prince <i>Maurice</i> of <i>Orange</i>,
+and <i>Anne</i> of <i>Mechlin</i>. My Grandmother was a Daughter of that Prince.</p>
+
+<p>I am still to give you an Account of M. <i>Hogendorp</i>, Receiver General of
+the State, an Office which in this Country, as well as elsewhere, is
+liable to Envy, and exposes him that exercises it, to the Censure of the
+Public. M. <i>Hogendorp</i> has had his Share of both, for several Years: And
+tho’ his Enemies have not been wanting in any Thing to ruin him, yet he
+stands his Ground, and the States approve of his Conduct. He lives with as
+great Magnificence and Splendor almost as any Subject of the Republic.</p>
+
+<p>In one of my former, I gave you an Account of two living Preachers at
+<i>Amsterdam</i>; and here
+I<!--417.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">414</a></span>
+cannot refrain the mention of a certain Minister
+lately dead, whose Name is illustrious among those of his own Communion,
+and ours too. The Person I mean, is M. <i>Saurin</i>, who was always reckoned
+here, and in all the Provinces, one of the most eloquent Preachers, since
+the Repeal of the Edict of <i>Nantes</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A great Number of Epitaphs have been made for this famous Preacher; but as
+they are all good for nothing, I content myself with sending you an
+Epitaph on those very Epitaphs.</p>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 17em;"><i>EPITAPHE.</i><br />
+<br />
+On the EPITAPHS made for<br />
+M. SAURIN.</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Sous ces tisons, sans titres, sans paraphes,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Incognito gisent vingt Epitaphes,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Qu’ont arraché de leurs maigres cerveaux,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Incognito vingt chétifs Pôetereaux;</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Difaut vouloir par detestable rime</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Loiier encor certain Esprit sublime,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Dont rien ne dis, savon qu’à ses talens,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Vivant trouva force contradisans.</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Chantres grossiers du bourbeux Marecage,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Pour Dieu, cessez votre maudit ramage!</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Si noblement chanter n’est votre fort,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Dires tont court, Le</i> grand Saurin <i>est mort.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 14em; padding: 1em 1em;">
+<i>It may be thus Engslish’d</i>:<br />
+<br />
+<i>i. e.</i></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Under these Firebrands<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">lie <i>incognito</i>, no less than a<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Score of Epitaphs, without<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Title or Subscription, rack’d<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>incognito</i> from the sterile Brains<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">of as many paltry Poetasters,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">pretending by detestable Doggrel<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">to extol a certain sublime<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Genius, of which I say nothing,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">but that whilst he was<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">alive, he met with a great<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">many who contradicted his<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Talents. But, for God’s sake,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">ye stupid Bards of the muddy<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fens, leave off your cursed<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">croaking! And as you have<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">not the Gift of noble Poetry,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">say nothing more, than that the.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="smcap">Great Saurin</span> is dead.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>During my Stay at the <i>Hague</i>, I heard much Talk of one <i>Armand</i> a
+<i>Frenchman</i>, whose extraordinary Adventures were at that Time the
+Discourse of all Companies. He did not want Understanding, but he was one
+of the oddest and most extravagant Mortals breathing. His Passions, which
+sometimes rose to a Degree of
+Fury,<!--418.png--><span class="pagenum">415</span>
+were the Cause of all his
+Misfortunes. I have been promised the History of him, and if my Friend
+keep his Word with me, I will not fail to send it to you<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="c3" style="padding-top: 1em;"><i>The History of</i> John Barre, <i>called</i> ARMAND.</div>
+
+<p><i>JOHN BARRE</i>, a Native of the Province of <i>Burgundy</i>, appeared at
+<i>Amsterdam</i> in 1720, by the Name of <i>Armand</i>. He was a handsome Man, in
+the Prime of his Age, and seemed to have had a good Education. He said he
+was come from <i>France</i>, because he had killed a Man in a Duel. Any other
+Man besides himself, in a Case of the like Nature, would have been at a
+terrible <i>Nonplus</i> to find himself pursued by Justice, and forced to fly
+from his native Country, and his Friends, without Money, into a strange
+Land, of which he understood not the Language, and thrown into a great
+City, in the midst of a numerous People, where a poor Man is so hard put
+to it to make an Acquaintance. But <i>Armand</i> was never at a Loss for
+Stratagems to relieve him. Being a bold intriguing Man, an excellent
+Tongue-pad, and a Poet into the Bargain, or at least very ready of making
+Verses, he quickly found Means to get Acquaintance. He might even have
+passed for a Man of Quality, if Necessity had not forced him to make use
+of a Talent which was a plain Discovery of the contrary; for he shewed
+himself a complete Writing-Master, and made excellent Scholars in a very
+little Time.</p>
+
+<p>With this Resource, <i>Armand</i> might have lived very happy; but the Violence
+of his Temper, and his satirical Humour, made him quickly
+lose<!--419.png--><span class="pagenum">416</span>
+his
+Patrons and best Friends. Besides these Defects, of which he was beyond
+all measure guilty, he was suspicious, haughty, self-will’d beyond
+Comparison, fantastical in every Part of his Behaviour, and an extravagant
+Admirer of his own Productions; so that a Person was sure of being thought
+the worst Enemy he had, if he did not applaud every thing he did; and
+’twas enough to put him into a Fury, if one did not think as well of his
+Verses, as he did himself. Two or three Passages only are sufficient to
+demonstrate this to be true.</p>
+
+<p>He lodged at the House of a Burgher, who had so great an Opinion of him,
+that he thought himself happy in having such Opportunities of Familiarity
+with a Man who had won his Heart by his Wit and his Behaviour. As they
+often eat and drank together, <i>Armand</i> invited his Landlord one Day with
+all his Family and some Relations to a Supper, when, according to his
+usual Way, he had provided a magnificent Repast. When they were seated at
+Table, a Lady of the Company thought fit to call for a particular Sort of
+Bread, which she had been used to eat; whereupon the Landlord immediately
+sent out of the Room for some; which <i>Armand</i> perceiving, and mistrusting
+that they thought he had not provided Bread enough, he rose nastily from
+Table, and went out, but came back again in a Moment, with a Basket full
+of Bread, which he turned topsy-turvy upon the Table: And as if this Piece
+of Rudeness was not enough, he ran out of the House like a Madman, and
+spent the rest of the Evening in walking up and down, at a great Rate,
+before his Door.</p>
+
+<p>Having heard, that M. <i>P——</i>, Agent for the Naval Affairs of <i>France</i> at
+<i>Rotterdam</i>, made Verses in a very pretty Manner; he went by the
+Inspiration<!--420.png--><span class="pagenum">417</span>
+of <i>Apollo</i>, to pay him a Visit; and after having made him a
+Compliment on his Quality of Poet, he presented him some Verses of his own
+making, of which he earnestly desired that he would give him his Opinion.
+M. <i>P——</i>, who was not so fond of Flattery as <i>Armand</i>, made him Answer,
+That he had been misinformed; that he was far from being a good Judge of
+Poetry, and therefore hoped he would not look upon him in that Light.
+<i>Armand</i> took his Answer for a downright Affront, and retired bluntly from
+him, not without abusing him. Nor did Mr. <i>C——r</i>, to whom he paid a
+Visit for the same Purpose, fare a whit better; and to be revenged of both
+those Gentlemen, he wrote an Epigram against them, which he pasted up one
+<i>Sunday</i> at the Door of the <i>French</i> Church.</p>
+
+<p><i>Armand</i> being disgusted with the Reception he met with from the Wits at
+<i>Rotterdam</i>, had recourse to the Merchants. He went to see M. <i>C——t</i>, a
+Person of known Probity, either to present his Verses to him, or to offer
+him his Service, in Quality of a Writing-Master. As M. <i>C——t</i> was a
+little hard of Hearing, he thought it proper to apprize our Poet of it in
+the first Place; but he, imagining that ’twas only a Pretence to dismiss
+him, turned his Back upon him, and went away very much incensed at the
+Affront which he thought he had received. He had even the Rashness to fix
+up a very offensive Paper some Days after, at the Exchange, to tarnish the
+honest Man’s Reputation; and the same being immediately torn down by M.
+<i>C——t</i>’s Friends, <i>Armand</i>, as soon as he heard of it, put up another,
+even more insulting than the former. M. <i>C——t</i>, to prevent his being
+again exposed to such Insults, carried his Complaints to the chief
+Magistrate of <i>Rotterdam</i>, who summoned the
+Author<!--421.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">418</a></span>
+of the Advertisement
+to appear before him. <i>Armand</i> obeyed the Writ, and pleaded in his own
+Defence, that being a Foreigner, he did not know he had done any thing
+that was prohibited by the Laws of the Country; but that having been
+lately informed of the contrary, he was willing to make the Person injured
+any Amends that should be thought proper, and promised at the same Time to
+depart the City forthwith. The Magistrate put up with his Reasons, and
+only insisted, on the Performance of his Promise. Therefore he left the
+City, and set out to his former Quarters at <i>Amsterdam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The ill Success of his Verses was so far from abating his versifying
+Humour, that his Passion for Poetry was only become the stronger. At his
+Return to <i>Amsterdam</i>, he began to write Satires against his Enemies at
+<i>Rotterdam</i>, whom he accused of having ruined all his Projects. Then he
+undertook to turn the tender Amours of <i>Abelard</i> and <i>Eloisa</i> into
+Burlesque Verse. This Piece, full of Obscenities, and of satirical Lashes
+of his Enemies, quickly ran thro’ all the Coffee-houses; and when he
+thought he had put the finishing Stroke to it, he met with a Bookseller,
+who was willing to undertake the Printing of it, tho’ it had been despised
+by all good Judges.</p>
+
+<p>While this Work was printing, <i>Armand</i> contracted a Friendship with the
+Count <i>de Bucquoy</i>, so well known for his Adventures and Extravagances.
+This Count too pretended to write Verses, and was as great a Rattle as
+<i>Armand</i>. Their Resemblance of each other so much in Temper, was judged at
+first to be such a Cement as would have consolidated their Friendship for
+a long Time: But a too great Freedom taken by the Count embroiled them
+implacably, and gave Rise to a Scene which had like to have been tragical.
+The
+Count,<!--422.png--><span class="pagenum">419</span>
+who was not yet perfectly acquainted with his Friend’s
+Blind-side, took it into his Head one Day, as he was in <i>Armand</i>’s
+Chamber, to make a Criticism upon his Poetry, which was a little too
+severe. <i>Armand</i>, to whom nobody had ever presumed before to talk at that
+Rate, was in a furious Passion, and called his Censor an impudent Fool,
+and a Fortune-Hunter. At last the two Poets fell to Blows; but <i>Armand</i>
+being the strongest Man, he forced the Count out of his Chamber, kick’d
+him down Stairs, and so drove him into the Street.</p>
+
+<p>We proceed now to that fatal Accident of <i>Armand</i>’s Life, which was the
+Cause of all his Misfortunes, and brought him at last to the Scaffold.
+<i>Armand</i> had contracted a Friendship of a long standing, with a Person of
+<i>Bayonne</i>, one <i>B——</i>, a young Fellow, who tho’ destitute of a Fortune,
+had been so lucky as to marry a very rich Heiress. At the Time when the
+Public believed there was the strictest Union subsisting betwixt them,
+they were strangely surprized to hear that <i>B——</i> had informed against
+his Friend, for a horrible Outrage; and that upon this Accusation <i>Armand</i>
+was arrested, and committed to Prison. <i>B——</i> pretended that being one
+Day in <i>Armand</i>’s Chamber, <i>Armand</i> shut the Door upon him, and forced
+him, with a Dagger at his Throat, to sign a Bond for a thousand Ducats.
+<i>Armand</i>’s general Character was enough to condemn him; whereas <i>B——</i>,
+on the contrary, passed for a young Man of an unblameable Behaviour; but,
+to his Misfortune, the Affair was so circumstanced, that it could not be
+duly prov’d; for, instead of calling out for Help, at least, as he went
+out of the Room, he retired without saying one Word, and did not so much
+as go and make his Complaint till two Days after: But for want of direct
+Evidence
+against<!--423.png--><span class="pagenum">420</span>
+the Prisoner, he caused Inquiry to be made into his Life
+and Conversation, and discovered, that <i>Armand</i> was but a borrowed Name,
+and that his true one was <i>John Barré</i>; that he had a Wife and four
+Children; that he had been Receiver of the Salt-Office at <i>Vezelay</i> in
+<i>Burgundy</i>; in short, that he had kill’d his Brother-in-Law in the
+Country, with a Fowling-Piece; and that having fled for it, he was
+outlaw’d and condemn’d to be hang’d.</p>
+
+<p>When <i>Armand</i> appear’d before the Judges, he fairly own’d what his
+Accusers had alledg’d against him, with regard to his Name, the Place of
+his Residence, and the Cause of his Flight; but he deny’d his having
+murder’d his Brother-in-Law, tho’ he confessed that he had kill’d him in
+his own Defence. As what he had done in <i>France</i>, was quite out of the
+Question; the Judges were only for adhering to the Point in hand. <i>Armand</i>
+said, that <i>B——</i> had of his own Accord given him a Bond for a thousand
+Ducats, in Acknowledgment for the Service he had done him, in lending him
+some Money, and promoting his Marriage. He pleaded his own Cause very
+courageously, without the least Trembling or Self-Contradiction. <i>B——</i>,
+on the contrary, seemed to falter in every thing that he said, which made
+it suspected by some, that he had only charg’d <i>Armand</i>, in order to have
+a Pretext for not paying the Sum that he had promised him. Yet others,
+with more Probability, ascribed <i>B——</i>’s Faint-heartedness upon this
+Occasion to his natural Timorousness, and to the Confusion into which an
+Accusation of this Nature, laid without any Proofs to support it, must
+needs cast him.</p>
+
+<p><i>Armand</i> being very urgent for an Issue of the Affair, the Judges, who
+found nothing that could support <i>B——</i>’s Pretensions, passed a Sentence,
+Whereby the latter was to pay the thousand
+Ducats,<!--424.png--><span class="pagenum">421</span>
+and the Defendant was
+to be set at Liberty, after giving Security for the said Sum, in case of
+an Appeal to the Court of <i>Holland</i>, saving to himself the Liberty of
+prosecuting his Adversary for Costs, Damages, Interest, and Reparation of
+Honour. <i>B——</i> did not fail to appeal from that Sentence to the Court, as
+did like wise <i>Armand</i>, who having given the Security required, and
+received the thousand Ducats, shews himself thro’ the whole Town, with a
+long Beard, which he suffered to grow in Prison, and which he swore should
+not be taken off till he had carried his Cause at the Court.</p>
+
+<p>In order to hasten the Decision of the Affair, he repaired to the <i>Hague</i>,
+where the Court at length passed a Sentence, which confirmed that of
+<i>Amsterdam</i>; and then he sued for Repair of Honour, and for Damages and
+Interests. <i>B——</i> finding himself by this Means cast in all his Demands,
+and fearing the Consequences of the Law-Suit, thought fit to set his
+Affairs in Order, and withdrew to <i>France</i>. The Court immediately clapp’d
+a Seal upon his Effects, summon’d him three times to appear, and ’tis
+probable that he would have been condemned upon an Outlawry, if <i>Armand</i>’s
+Misbehaviour had not put a sudden Stop to the Courte of Justice. The
+Occasion of this Incident was as follows:</p>
+
+<p><i>Armand</i> was so impatient for the Issue of his Process, that he went every
+Day to teaze his Judges, who sometimes were not at Leisure to grant him
+Audience. Upon a certain Day, as he came to the Door of the
+Attorney-General, one of the Domestics told him, his Master was not at
+home; and the Man was going to shut the Door against him, when <i>Armand</i>
+said, <i>I know the contrary, and must needs speak with him</i>. Upon this they
+fell to abusing one another, when
+<i>Armand</i>,<!--425.png--><span class="pagenum">422</span>
+losing all Patience, struck
+the Domestic several Blows, and put the whole House in an Alarm, for which
+he was carried to Prison; from whence however he might have had a speedy
+Deliverance, if he would but have confessed his Fault, and made the
+Attorney-General proper Satisfaction: But instead of doing this, he
+behaved to Mr. Attorney in a strange Manner, and threatened to be revenged
+of him. But he paid dear for his Insolence, and was sentenced to lie in
+Prison twelve Years. He remained there till 1734, when the Court thought
+fit to remove him to another Town, till the Expiration of the Term
+mentioned in the Sentence. <i>Armand</i> being acquainted with this Resolution,
+imagined, no doubt, that he was now to be treated with more Severity than
+ever, and perhaps that he should be privately dispatched; and from that
+Time he had no Command of himself. He formed a Design to murder the
+Archers when they came to meddle with him, or at least to prevent their
+seizing him; and for this Purpose he had taken one of the Bed-posts, which
+he not only armed with Nails, but fastened the Blade of a Penknife at one
+End of it. Being thus prepared for his Defence, on the Day appointed for
+his Removal; two Archers came to take him, of whom he ripp’d up the Guts
+of one, and broke two Ribs of the other. After this, none of the Archers
+durst venture to come near him, till the following Stratagem was thought
+of, by which they effectually quelled him. Two Archers were ordered to
+make each a Hole in the Wall of the Prison, and at the very Instant when
+<i>Armand</i> was peeping through one of them, to examine the Cause of it, a
+Pistol was discharg’d in his Face, loaded with Sand, which put his Eyes,
+Tongue and Face into such an Agony, that he was not able to defend
+himself, but
+surrendered,<!--426.png--><span class="pagenum">423</span>
+and begged Quarter. At the same Time he was
+seized, and clapped in Irons. When he was under Examination, he confessed,
+that his Design was to murder any one that offered to remove him; and that
+he would do it again, if it were in his Power; which Circumstance was such
+an Aggravation of his Crime, that he was condemned to lose his Head.</p>
+
+<p>The View of approaching Death was so far from being shocking to him, that
+he seemed perfectly unconcerned. But what was very observable in this
+unaccountable Man, was that the dreadful Prospect of the infamous Death he
+had so justly deserved, was so far from engrossing his Thoughts, that it
+did not in the least abate the Fondness he had always discovered for his
+Verses; so that at the very Time when a Minister was preparing him for
+Eternity, he interrupted him short, by telling him, <i>Sir, Here are some
+Verses of my own composing; I desire you would let me read them to you. I
+always loved to divert myself with Works of this Sort</i>. An Attorney, who
+was present at the same Time, performing the Office of a Comforter, seemed
+to be shock’d at the Reading of a Composition so unsuitable to one in such
+Circumstances; but <i>Armand</i>, looking on him with a very angry Countenance,
+told him in plain Terms, That he was an Ass; and that he wondered how a
+Man of his Profession, an Attorney, at constant Variance with Heaven, and
+for ever and ever accursed, should take it into his Head to turn
+Comforter, and pretend to make Peace between God and Man.</p>
+
+<p>The Day of Execution being<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> come, he was carried before the Judges to
+hear Sentence of Death passed upon him: But they had scarce begun to
+<!--427.png--><span class="pagenum">424</span>pronounce
+it, when he grew strangely outrageous, and said, ’twas unjust
+to read his Sentence to him in a Language which he did not understand. It
+was to no Purpose that they told him, it should be explained to him in
+<i>French</i>; for he still rav’d on in the same Strain; so that they were
+obliged to stop his Mouth with a Handkerchief, which they held tight
+behind, by both Ends. However, upon his making a Sign that it strain’d him
+too much, they slacken’d it, and then he promised, that if they would take
+it quite off, he would keep a profound Silence. He was attended to the
+Place of Execution by a Minister, and saluted such of his Acquaintance as
+he saw mixed in the Crowd, with a Smile. When he was on the Scaffold, and
+fixed his Eyes on the Gallows, he turned pale, saying, that he had been
+promised different Treatment, and that he did not think he should be
+turned out of the World in the Manner for which he saw that Preparation.
+They encouraged him, by telling him, that he should only have his Head cut
+off, if he did not use Violence; but that if he did, he should be hanged,
+and hoisted up to the Gallows by a Pully, there for that Purpose. He made
+Answer, that he did not care to swing out of the World by a Halter. He
+then asked the Executioner, if he was perfect in his Business; to which he
+answered in the Affirmative, adding, That he had by his Dexterity made
+sixteen Heads leap already, with very good Success, and that he hoped his
+would be the seventeenth to do him Honour. Then <i>Armand</i> demanded where
+the Sword was, and the Executioner told him, that it should be ready at
+the Time. At last the fatal Moment being come, he fell on his Knees, and
+as soon as his Eyes were blinded, he had his Head struck off at one Blow.</p>
+
+<!--428.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">425</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have nothing particular to tell you of the Palace at <i>Honslaerdyck</i>, and
+of the<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> <i>House in the Wood</i>, which belong to the King of <i>Prussia</i>,
+because they are neither of ’em what they were formerly. They are running
+so to Decay, that shortly they will not deserve the Mention. As I passed
+to <i>Honslaerdyck</i>, I went thro’ the Village of <i>Loosduinen</i>, where I saw
+in a Church, the Basin, in which, ’tis said, were baptized the three
+hundred and sixty-five Children, of which a Countess of <i>Holland</i> was
+delivered at one<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> Birth, in Pursuance of the Wish, or rather Curse of
+a poor Woman, who having a Charge of Children, and coming to beg Alms of
+her, was not only denied, but rebuked for having so many Children;
+whereupon she wished, that the Countess, who was then pregnant, might be
+brought to Bed of as many Children as there were Days in the Year; which
+happened accordingly. This remarkable Event is set forth in a Picture
+carefully preserved in the Church.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> <i>Ryswic</i>, where the Peace was signed in 1697, being in
+no better Condition than that of <i>Honslaerdyck</i>, I did not think fit to
+strike out of the fine Road to <span class="smcap">Delft</span>, to go and see it. This Town, which
+is a League from the <i>Hague</i>, has nothing remarkable to be view’d, besides
+the Tomb of <i>William</i> I. Prince of <i>Orange</i>, who was assassinated at
+<i>Delft</i>, in 1584, by <i>Balthasar Gerard</i>, of the <i>Franche Comté</i>. The
+Republic which caused this <i>Mausoleum</i> to be erected, spar’d no Cost to
+leave Posterity a Monument worthy of its
+Founders,<!--429.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">426</a></span>
+and of their Gratitude
+for the signal Services which had been done them by that Hero. The Arsenal
+for the Land Service of this State, is at <i>Delft</i>, and there are few in
+<i>Europe</i> that are better furnished, or kept more in Order. This Town
+drives a great Trade in earthen Ware. As it is at the same Distance from
+<i>Ryswic</i> as the <i>Hague</i>, the Ambassadors of <i>France</i> resided here during
+the Congress. ’Tis now inhabited by several People, who either from being
+weary of the World, or by Reason of Misfortunes, have chose Retirement.
+From hence you will imagine, ’tis not a very gay Place, so that I made no
+Stay here, nor no Acquaintance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Rotterdam</span>, three Leagues from <i>Delft</i>, is by much the most populous Place,
+and is only inferior to <i>Amsterdam</i>, on Account of its Commerce. Its
+Situation on the <i>Maese</i>, six Leagues from the Sea, gives it a
+Communication with all the Towns of <i>Holland</i>, and the neighbouring
+Provinces, both by means of that River, and several Canals and Rivers that
+fall into it. Its greatest Trade is with <i>England</i> and <i>France</i>, and here
+are three <i>English</i> Churches, <i>viz.</i> One that is Episcopal, or of the
+Church of <i>England</i> by Law establish’d, one <i>Presbyterian</i>, and one
+<i>Scots</i>. As to us Catholics, we have several Churches here in Chambers,
+and the Jews have a neat Synagogue.</p>
+
+<p>The Statue of <i>Erasmus</i>, the Restorer of the <i>Latin</i> Tongue, which is
+placed in the Market-place, is altogether plain. This learned Man is
+represented in the Habit of a Doctor, holding a Book in his Hand. The
+Pedestal is plainly decorated with a <i>Latin</i> Inscription, as is the House
+where he was born, which is preserved just as it was then, and is a very
+small and mean Building. ’Tis said, that on the same Square where
+<i>Erasmus</i>’s Statue stands, the Magistrates intend
+to<!--430.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">427</a></span>
+erect a Stadthouse,
+of which they are really in great Need, that which they have being a very
+sorry one. If this Project takes, it were to be wished that they may
+employ a more able Architect, and a more diligent one than they have made
+use of in building an Exchange, which has been a long Time begun, and is
+but half finish’d yet. ’Tis true, that as it is, ’tis too large for the
+Number of Merchants that meet in it; but after all, ’tis amazing that a
+City, which has the Reputation of being wealthy, should let one of its
+principal Edifices stand unfinish’d.</p>
+
+<p>There are some magnificent Houses in this Town, but its greatest Ornament
+is its Canals, broad and deep enough for the Entrance of Shipping, which
+is a great Convenience to its Trade. I know not how sociable the People
+are at <i>Rotterdam</i>; for tho’ I have gone through it several times, I never
+stay’d long enough there to make any Acquaintance in it. I always took the
+Air for most part upon the fine Kay that runs along the <i>Maese</i>, which is
+beautified with a pleasant Row of Trees on one Side, and noble Houses on
+the other.</p>
+
+<p>From <i>Rotterdam</i> I went thro’ <i>Maeslandsluys</i> to the <span class="smcap">Brille</span>, a well
+fortified Town upon the <i>Maese</i>, near the Mouth of that River. This Town
+is famous in the History of the <i>Netherlands</i>, because in the Year 1572,
+<i>William de Lumai</i>, Count <i>de la Marck</i>, and some of his Confederates, who
+went out to Sea, to avoid falling into the Hands of the Duke of <i>Alva</i>,
+took it by Surprize, and there laid the first Foundations of the Liberty
+of the United Provinces.</p>
+
+<p>When I left the <i>Brille</i>, I came to <span class="smcap">Helvoetsluys</span>, the saddest Place in all
+<i>Holland</i>. The Winds, which have been boisterous for some Days, hinder the
+Packet-Boat and me from setting
+out<!--431.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">428</a></span>
+for <i>England</i>. In the mean time, I am
+very ill here. I am cramm’d twice a Day with boil’d Ducks, roasted Ducks,
+and others tossed up with a high Ragoû, and yet I am ask’d if I will not
+please to have more Seasoning. Perhaps it was this Town only that a
+certain <i>Frenchman</i> had seen, when he said that he had taken Notice of but
+three Things in <i>Holland</i>, and they began all three with the Syllable Ca,
+<i>viz.</i> <i>Canals</i>, <i>Canards</i> (Ducks), and <i>Canaille</i>, <i>i. e.</i> Mob; for
+certainly there are other Things to be seen in the rest of Holland, where
+there are as many genteel People as in any Country in the World. Nay, I
+dare affirm, that a certain Candour prevails here, which is perhaps not so
+general elsewhere. ’Tis rare for a <i>Dutchman</i> to know the Arts of Tricking
+and Cheating, and he is of a friendly Disposition, if his Purse be out of
+the Question. If they were not so much in Love with their Money, there
+would be as few Faults to find with this Nation as any. I could like to
+live with ’em very well. When one treats them with Civility, one may do
+any thing with ’em. And it was a Saying of the Emperor <i>Charles</i> V. <i>You
+must give the</i> Dutch <i>good Words, leave ’em the Shadow of Liberty, but
+make them pay well for it</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Be these People as much as they will for their own Interest, they are
+charitable, and would have every one live. They have not perhaps that gay
+Wit, which is of all Things so taking; but then they have good Sense. I
+have often taken a Place in the Boats, on purpose to hear what was said
+there; and have been surprised to find the common People talk of Trade, of
+the Interests of the State, and of other Countries, of the Manners of
+different People, of the History of their own Country, and in short, of a
+thousand other Things, with more Justness, perhaps, than a great many
+<!--432.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">429</a></span>Epigrammatists,
+Stanza-makers, and Rhymesters could do elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>For the rest, this Country is as charming in some Things, as it is
+disagreeable in others. ’Tis certain, that the People are now and then too
+insolent; yet a <i>Dutchman</i> does not care to be the first to give an
+Affront; and unless a Foreigner provokes him by his Pride, or his
+Pertness, he will indulge himself in his Phlegm.</p>
+
+<p>I can’t imagine why Foreigners take a Pleasure to run down <i>Holland</i>, as a
+Country where they have been skinn’d. This might have been the Case with
+’em in such a Hole as <i>Helvoetsluys</i>, or else at <i>Rotterdam</i>, when one
+<i>Carpentier</i>, a <i>French</i> Refugee, kept the Sign there of the Marshal <i>de
+Turenne</i>; but ’tis not so in a good Town, where every Foreigner, I mean
+such as are willing to be sociable, and to eat at the Landlord’s Table,
+know what they have for their Money. The Ordinary is settled, Wine,
+Lodging, and every Thing at a certain Price. Suppers are the only Meals
+that plunge deep in a Man’s Purse, of which a Foreigner must be cautious.
+As to Carriages, either by Land or Water, the Fare is fixed; and ’tis
+impossible for a Man to be cheated, unless it be in frosty Weather, when
+’tis certain one is at the Mercy both of the Watermen and Coachmen.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis wrong also for some Foreigners to cry out, as they do, against
+Justice, which I find more impartial here than elsewhere. But it does not
+always act with the Vivacity which a Foreigner would wish for, who often
+has neither the Time, nor the Means, nor the Inclination to wait for it.
+He then finds fault with Justice, when he ought rather to blame the
+Situation of his Affairs.</p>
+
+<p>I fear that you will be angry with me for having abused your Attention by
+this long
+Letter,<!--433.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">430</a></span>
+which I now conclude, by assuring you, that nobody can
+be more intirely than I am, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i005.png" width="400" height="63" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER LIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>London, April 12, 1733.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>’Tis not possible for me to be insensible how greatly I am obliged to you
+for that Uneasiness which you seem to be under, till you can hear of my
+Arrival in some safe Harbour of this Kingdom, tho’ ’tis no more than what
+I expected from such a Friend as you. I should have prevented your Anxiety
+upon this Score, if I had not thought it proper to take a little View of
+this Country, before I wrote one Word to you about it; and now I flatter
+myself that I am able to satisfy your Curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>I had one of the most favourable Passages that could be; for in less than
+eighteen Hours, I came from <i>Helvoetsluys</i> to <i>Harwich</i>, which is the
+Harbour for the Packet-Boats that pass betwixt this Kingdom and <i>Holland</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Harwich</i> not seeming to me to be worth a Traveller’s Notice, I only
+stopped to hire Horses, and came with all Speed to London. <i>That City</i>,
+which for its Extent, the Number of its Inhabitants, and their Wealth, may
+pass, not only for the Capital of a powerful Kingdom, but even for the
+Capital of <i>Europe</i>: <i>That City</i>, where True Liberty bears Rule; where the
+Arts and Sciences are cultivated and protected; where the Inhabitants
+<!--434.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">431</a></span>enjoy
+the Goods of Fortune without vain Ostentation; where Merit is
+considered, and Birth highly valued, when ’tis accompanied with Virtue:
+<i>That City</i>, in fine, where are still to be found those <i>Roman</i> Souls,
+which other Nations admire, but know not how to imitate.</p>
+
+<p>Yet <i>London</i>, with all the Attributes I have now given it, with its
+magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane, cannot be rank’d among
+the finest Cities; for many of its Streets being dirty and ill-paved, its
+Houses of Brick, not very high, nor adorn’d with Architecture, but
+blacken’d with the unmerciful Smoke of Coal-fires, gives it a dark Hue,
+which renders it far less agreeable than it would be otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>The Riches of <i>London</i>, if not of all <i>England</i>, are owing to the
+<i>Thames</i>, and the Citizens set more Value by this River, than by any other
+Advantage that they enjoy: Of this a certain old Alderman had the Courage
+to give King <i>Charles</i> II. a convincing Proof, at a Time when that Monarch
+was so extremely angry with the City of <i>London</i>, that when the Lord Mayor
+and Aldermen went to Court, with a View to pacify him, he exclaimed
+bitterly against them, and told ’em, that he knew how to make them feel
+the whole Weight of his Resentment, and that he would for that End remove
+his Court to <i>Oxford</i>. At this the old Alderman, who pretended to be hard
+of Hearing, said to a Nobleman that was present at the Audience, loud
+enough to be over-heard by the King, <i>What says his Majesty</i>, my Lord?
+<i>Will he in his Wrath take the</i> Thames <i>from us?</i> Meaning thereby, that
+since the King could not take that River from the City, the Inhabitants
+would not be sorry for his going to <i>Oxford</i>. Indeed, in all my Travels I
+never saw a finer Sight than this River, from its Mouth to
+<i>London</i>-Bridge:<!--435.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">432</a></span>
+For besides its being continually covered with Ships,
+Barges, Boats, &amp;c. going up and down with the Tide, its Banks are adorned
+with a Variety of fine Scenes, such as Towns, Villages, and
+Country-Houses. Among others, there’s the great and magnificent Hospital
+of <i>Greenwich</i>, founded in the Reign of <i>Charles</i> II. for disabled Seamen,
+or the Invalids of the Navy. Tho’ this Structure is not yet finish’d, it
+may be rank’d amongst the most considerable in <i>Europe</i>, and is not
+inferior in Grandeur to many Royal Palaces. Its Situation also is so
+charming, that were it for that alone, it were worth while to take a Turn
+on Purpose to see it.</p>
+
+<p><i>London</i> stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent.
+The famous Bridge upon which Queen <i>Elizabeth</i> caused the Head of the Earl
+of <i>Essex</i> to be exposed, after having flatter’d him that he should one
+Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp’d by Houses on both Sides,
+which are neither fine nor lofty.</p>
+
+<p>St. <i>Paul</i>’s Church, the Cathedral of <i>London</i>, is, next to St. <i>Peter</i>’s
+at <i>Rome</i>, the greatest and most stately Temple in <i>Europe;</i> and I even
+question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. <i>Peter</i>’s, if
+it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only
+the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar’d. The
+principal Front of St. <i>Paul</i>’s is of that sort of Architecture which the
+old <i>Romans</i>, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have
+thought unworthy of their Time; tho’ ’tis certain this beautiful Front is
+render’d the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very
+<i>Gothic</i> Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This
+whole Fabric stands by
+itself,<!--436.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">433</a></span>
+and is built in the Form of a Cross, with
+a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos
+on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the principal Front there’s an
+Area, encompass’d with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white
+marble Statue of Queen <i>Anne</i>, in whose Reign this Church was finish’d;
+which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of
+<i>Charles</i> II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her
+Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but ’tis so much like a
+Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> <i>Amende
+honorable</i>: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it
+represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of
+<i>London</i>, by whose Order ’twas erected. All the Church is of very white
+Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of <i>London</i>, has rendered black on one
+Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome
+only is painted of an <i>Ash</i> Colour. The Choir (for the Church of <i>England</i>
+retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just
+such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the
+Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or
+Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they assist at <i>Te Deum</i>, are
+of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The
+subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain
+Vaults,<!--437.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">434</a></span>
+in which
+are interred such People as they belong to.</p>
+
+<p>The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which
+consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King <i>Charles</i> II. is a
+very lofty Pillar of the <i>Doric</i> Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in
+the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence
+there’s a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Royal-Exchange</i>, where the Merchants meet at One o’Clock every Day,
+is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned
+with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of
+it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the
+Statues of the Kings that have reigned in <i>England</i>; which are of
+Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King <i>Charles</i> II. in
+whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and
+is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a <i>Roman</i>
+Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in <i>London</i>; where indeed
+Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can’t conceive;
+since most of the <i>English</i> Nobility have been in <i>Italy</i>, and have there
+acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious.</p>
+
+<p>The famous Tower of <i>London</i>, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this
+Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the <i>Thames</i>, at the Extremity of the
+City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without
+Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself,
+Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the Arsenal of Arms; and in
+this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro’ good
+Fortune, the Reign of King <i>George</i> II. now
+upon<!--438.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">435</a></span>
+the Throne, has been so
+free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>As one goes up the <i>Thames</i> towards St. <i>James</i>’s, End of the Town, where
+the King and most of the Nobility reside, one passes along by a Palace
+called the <i>Savoy</i>, because it was built by the Princes of <i>Savoy</i>, Uncles
+of Queen <i>Eleanor</i> of <i>Provence</i>, Wife to <i>Henry</i> III. This Building has
+nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The
+Chamber is still to be seen here in which <i>John</i> II. King of <i>France</i> was
+imprisoned, who, like <i>Regulus</i>, came and re-delivered himself into the
+Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not
+disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which
+were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of <i>Whitehall</i>, which is the common Landing-place for People
+that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly
+before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of
+<i>William</i> and <i>Mary</i>. There’s a Pile of Building yet standing, which is
+magnificent, and is called the <i>Banquetting-House</i>. I was here shewn the
+very Window which the unfortunate <i>Charles</i> I. came out of, when the
+Usurper <i>Cromwel</i> made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the
+Buildings called by the Name of <i>Whitehall</i>, are now in the Hands of
+private Owners, by Grants of the late King <i>George</i> I.</p>
+
+<p>St. <i>James</i>’s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from
+<i>Whitehall</i> by St. <i>James</i>’s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable
+to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes
+in <i>Europe</i> worse lodged than the King of <i>England</i>. I have been assured,
+that the Nation offered the late King <i>George</i> I. to build him
+a<!--439.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">436</a></span>
+new
+Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his
+Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he
+thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for
+the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of
+Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was
+more urgent, and more useful.</p>
+
+<p>St. <i>James</i>’s Park is the same Thing here as the <i>Thuilleries</i> are at
+<i>Paris</i>; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow
+Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Canal in the middle of the whole. Mean
+time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ’d, tho’
+the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. <i>Charles</i>
+II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make
+Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to <i>Paris</i> for the
+famous <i>Le Neautre</i>, the Man that laid out the Garden of the
+<i>Thuilleries</i>, and the Park at <i>Versailles</i>. But this <i>Frenchman</i>, after
+having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did,
+assuring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The
+grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but
+especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in
+it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of
+the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or
+Character, to walk there at the same Time with ’em; for which Reason the
+Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the
+most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear
+here in rich Dresses; for the <i>English</i>, who Twenty Years ago did not wear
+Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb’d as much as
+the <i>French</i>;
+I<!--440.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">437</a></span>
+speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still
+contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine
+Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don’t
+make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of <i>Marlborough</i> and
+<i>Buckingham</i> are the most considerable. The former is very richly
+furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. ’Tis occupied by the
+Dowager of that great Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>, who led the <i>English</i> to
+triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble.</p>
+
+<p><i>Buckingham</i> House is not so big as <i>Marlborough</i> House, but infinitely
+better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. <i>James</i>’s Park, and is
+only separated from it by Grates of Iron. ’Tis one grand Building, with
+two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of
+the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle
+of the Court there’s a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and
+magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Canal, which was
+actually begun, but remains unfinish’d. This fine House is occupied by the
+Duchess Dowager of <i>Buckingham</i>, a natural Daughter of King <i>James</i> II.</p>
+
+<p>St. <i>James</i>’s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of <i>London</i> in
+general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and
+want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that
+cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that <i>Lewis</i>
+XIV. offered <i>Charles</i> II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave <i>London</i>,
+provided <i>Charles</i> would furnish him with Gravel from <i>England</i>, to lay in
+the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true,
+I<!--441.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">438</a></span>
+know not; but
+it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the <i>English</i>
+Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and <i>London</i> is
+still the Sufferer for want of it.</p>
+
+<p>There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my
+Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning
+them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving
+them. As these are encompassed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much
+like Church-yards. St. <i>James</i>’s Square is the most considerable in
+<i>London</i>, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of
+the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece
+of Water, surrounded with an iron Balustrade. Three Sides of this Square
+are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the
+fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this
+Square live the Earl of <i>Strafford</i>, Ambassador from Queen <i>Anne</i> to the
+Congress at <i>Utrecht</i>; and the Duke of <i>Norfolk</i>, a <i>Roman</i> Catholic, Earl
+Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of <i>England</i>, Chief of the
+Illustrious Family of <i>Howard</i>; from whence was descended <i>Catharine</i> the
+Fifth Wife of <i>Henry</i> VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the
+unfortunate <i>Anne Bullen</i>, who preceded her. The Duke of <i>Norfolk</i>’s House
+here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grosvenor</i>’s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St.
+<i>James</i>’s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle
+of the Garden is the Statue of King <i>George</i> I. on Horseback, of Lead,
+gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in
+<i>London</i>, the best is that of <i>Charles</i> I. represented on Horseback in
+Brass. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper
+<i>Cromwell</i> having caused it
+to<!--442.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">439</a></span>
+be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a
+Founder, who happen’d to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it
+under Ground, till the Restoration of <i>Charles</i> II. to whom he made a
+Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at <i>Charing-Cross</i>,
+where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image
+that has escap’d the Fury of the <i>Iconoclastes</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Since, the Accession of the <i>Hanover</i> Family to the Throne of <i>Great
+Britain</i>, <i>London</i> is infinitely larger than it was. There’s one intire
+Quarter goes by the Name of <i>Hanover</i>. The Parliament being apprehensive,
+that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself,
+pass’d an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new
+Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would
+nevertheless have been too large.</p>
+
+<p>I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to
+give you a general Idea of <i>London</i>, and not a very exact Plan, that being
+a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed.
+Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you
+with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to
+Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of <i>Montagu</i>, Son-in-Law to the
+late Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>, is the most considerable. The Apartments are
+large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly
+those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of <i>Phaethon</i>
+is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are
+not furnish’d, and ’tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House
+to the Count <i>de Montijo</i>, the <i>Spanish</i> Ambassador.</p>
+
+<p>Of the modern Churches that of St. <i>James</i>, which is the Parochial Church
+of the Court, is
+the<!--443.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">440</a></span>
+finest, having a Portico before it, supported by
+Columns, after the Manner of the <i>Rotunda</i> at <i>Rome</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Abby Church of <i>Westminster</i>, in which the Kings are crown’d and
+interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings,
+and other Persons illustrious either for their Birth or Merit. <i>Henry</i> the
+VIIth’s Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very
+magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of <i>Newcastle</i>. That of the
+late Mr. <i>Craggs</i>, who was Secretary of State to King <i>George</i> the Ist, is
+plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the
+<i>Grecian</i> Manner, and leaning in a very noble Attitude upon an Urn. The
+famous <i>St. Evremont</i> has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The
+Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a
+short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his
+Friend my Lord <i>Galloway</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is
+one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the
+Stone which served for <i>Jacob</i>’s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious
+Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much
+neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that
+pious King <i>James</i> II. The <i>English</i> would do well to make a Present of it
+to the Republic of <i>Venice</i>, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with
+the Piece of <i>Moses</i>’s Rock in St. <i>Mark</i>’s Church. The Cardinal
+<i>Cienfuegos</i> shew’d me a Piece of it, when I was last at <i>Rome</i>: He told
+me, that he stole it in his Return from <i>Portugal</i>, where he had been
+Ambassador, when he came to <i>London</i> with a Commission from the Emperor to
+King <i>George</i> I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty
+of in his Life; and that he should have been
+exceeding<!--444.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">441</a></span>
+scrupulous of
+committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour’d in <i>England</i> as it
+deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help
+filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a
+Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen’d to be looking
+another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been
+so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had
+given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece;
+and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole
+Stone. O Lord! cry’d the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish
+then I had purchased it.</p>
+
+<p>In <i>Westminster</i> Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which <i>Edward</i> I. that
+proud Conqueror of <i>Scotland</i>, caused to be brought from the Abbey of
+<i>Scoon</i> to that of <i>Westminster</i>, in order to give the <i>Scots</i> to
+understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country.
+Ever since that Time the Kings of <i>England</i> have made it a Rule to be
+seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace of <i>Westminster</i>, tho’ formerly noted for the Residence of the
+Kings, and now for the Assembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain.
+The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one
+of the largest in <i>Europe</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not
+much ornamented, nor is the King’s Throne in it at all magnificent: They
+say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an
+Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of
+<i>Great Britain</i> being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august
+Body in the Universe.</p>
+
+<!--445.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">442</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the King goes to meet his Parliament, ’tis with all the Splendor of
+Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress’d in Royal
+Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King
+of <i>France</i>, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac’d in a Corner,
+with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of <i>Wales</i> alone,
+as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers
+sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet
+had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the
+late King his Father there; and I assure you, that the Sight of this
+august Assembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don’t
+know that I was ever impress’d with before. When I saw that King, the Best
+and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal Assent to what the Peers
+of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I
+thought I saw <i>Augustus</i> in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the
+Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless
+the Parliament does not always applaud the King’s Measures; but on the
+contrary makes a noble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon
+the public Liberty. ’Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which
+depriv’d the <i>Stuart</i> Family of the Throne, the Kings and their
+Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the
+Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he
+finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant.
+All that find Fault with the <i>English</i> for Disaffection to their Kings,
+have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who
+think a King of <i>Great Britain</i> is to be pity’d because he is not
+absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A
+Monarch<!--446.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">443</a></span>
+of <i>England</i> is
+capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no
+Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this
+Expression, ’tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What
+needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man
+can be pitied, because ’tis not in his Power to make Millions of People
+miserable? For my part, I think that the <i>English</i>, who do not stand up
+for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who
+oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is
+once established.</p>
+
+<p>What I admire in the <i>English</i>, is not only the Firmness with which they
+plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we
+see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their
+Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An <i>Englishman</i>, on the
+contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what
+the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the
+State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish’d and
+far-fetch’d, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and
+enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true
+<i>English</i> Nobleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his
+Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him:
+He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose
+the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King
+has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being
+solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An
+<i>Englishman</i> who should write such Letters as <i>Bussi Rabutin</i> wrote to
+<i>Lewis</i> XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised
+in<!--447.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">444</a></span>
+<i>England</i>, as
+<i>Bussi</i> was esteemed in <i>France</i>. They that are out of Favour, are not
+shunn’d here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being
+abandoned by their Friends, that a Nobleman has often a greater Levee in
+his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can’t but
+think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is
+sometimes push’d too far. I have been told, <i>a propos</i>, that Queen
+<i>Catharine</i> of <i>Portugal</i>, Wife of <i>Charles</i> II. having forbad a certain
+Lady to come to Court, for having behav’d in a Manner that gave Offence,
+the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she assured
+her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again,
+’till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen
+was dead, and exposed to View at <i>Westminster</i>.</p>
+
+<p>His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D——ess of <i>Q——y</i>
+to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that
+Lady’s Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign’d
+his Employment of V——e A——l of <i>Sc——d</i>, and absented himself from
+Court; but the D——ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as
+ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only
+shunn’d here for being a Criminal, or a Coward.</p>
+
+<p>There’s no King serv’d with greater Respect than a King of <i>Great
+Britain</i>: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very
+numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his
+Court is always very much throng’d; and in short, he wants nothing of the
+Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable
+for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and
+responsible<!--448.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">445</a></span>
+to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong.</p>
+
+<p>The present King is not tall, but very well shap’d, has a stately Port, a
+very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The
+<i>French</i>, <i>English</i>, and the <i>Italian</i> Languages are as familiar to him as
+the <i>German</i>. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear
+the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur,
+he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an Œconomist,
+without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a
+Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively
+Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the
+other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a
+quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of
+<i>Hanover</i>, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the <i>Netherlands</i> at the
+Battles of <i>Oudenarde</i> and <i>Malplaquet</i>; as Prince of <i>Wales</i>, he shew’d
+that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he
+makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His
+People are happy under his Reign. In <i>England</i> his only Study is to
+maintain the Peace and Balance of <i>Europe</i>, to make Commerce flourish, and
+to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At <i>Hanover</i>
+he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their
+Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his
+Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of
+their Kings, his <i>Britannic</i> Majesty may hope for one of the longest of
+Reigns.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges
+Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic,
+<!--449.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">446</a></span>but
+accompany’d with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most
+courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is
+adorn’d with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look’d upon all the
+trifling Amusements of her Sex with Disdain; and particularly never
+affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one
+of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the
+most learned Princesses in <i>Europe</i>. Having lost the Margrave of
+<i>Brandenburg Anspach</i> her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother
+the Princess of <i>Saxe-Eysenach</i> marrying again to <i>John George</i> IV.
+Elector of <i>Saxony</i>, she was left under the Guardianship of <i>Frederic</i>
+Elector of <i>Brandenburg</i>, afterwards King of <i>Prussia</i>; by which means she
+spent Part of her early Days at the Court of <i>Berlin</i>, where the
+Electoress, who was Sister to the late King <i>George</i> I. gave her a
+Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime
+Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach’d her. The
+young Princess of <i>Anspach</i> had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and
+the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of <i>Charles</i> III. King of
+<i>Spain</i>, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But
+the Princess was so strongly attach’d to her Religion, that she refused
+both. God reserv’d her, no doubt, to make <i>Great Britain</i> happy, and she
+married the Electoral Prince of <i>Brunswic-Lunenbourg</i>. Not many Years
+after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her
+Father-in-Law and her Husband call’d to the Possession of one of the chief
+Thrones in the World. I was then at <i>Hanover</i>, and will venture to assure
+you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their
+Greatness with a Moderation which render’d them worthy of their Fortune;
+and
+the<!--450.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">447</a></span>
+Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly
+satisfy’d in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that
+both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye,
+because they so highly deserved that Title. When she became Princess of
+<i>Wales</i>, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which
+then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her,
+and she in return paid him very great Respect. And<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a>now that she is
+Queen, her Majesty contributes all that’s in her Power to make the
+Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the
+Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Joys of their <i>Britannic</i> Majesties we ought to reckon the
+numerous Family with which Heaven has bless’d ’em. It consists of two
+Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and Title of
+Prince of <i>Wales</i>, tho’ he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when
+among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish’d to be the chief Personage. He
+is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said
+of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous.
+He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating
+Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is
+Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is
+perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing
+that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The <i>Hanoverians</i>, among whom he
+was educated, ador’d him, and the <i>English</i> seem altogether as fond of
+him.</p>
+
+<p>The young Duke of <i>Cumberland</i>, second Son to their Majesties, resembles
+what the Painters
+represent<!--451.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">448</a></span>
+to us by the Name of <i>Cupid</i>. He has Sense
+infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He
+speaks <i>English</i>, <i>High-Dutch</i>, <i>Latin</i>, and <i>French</i>; and I think more
+than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen
+Years of Age<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other
+two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the
+<i>Princess Royal</i><a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a>, has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty
+and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as
+engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all
+Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of
+good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to
+Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing;
+and they say, she is generous and beneficent. ’Tis a Pleasure to see her
+on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the
+Virtues becoming her high Birth.</p>
+
+<p>The Princesses <i>Amelia</i> and <i>Caroline</i>, were they not the most shining
+Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot
+fail in time of making some Prince or other happy.</p>
+
+<p>With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter,
+which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks
+without Delay. In the mean time be assured, that I am always with an
+inviolable Attachment, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--452.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">449</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i007.png" width="400" height="61" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>LETTER LIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<span style="float: left"><i>SIR</i>,</span><span style="float: right"><i>London, May 4, 1733.</i></span>
+<span style="clear: both;">&nbsp;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court.
+The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that
+Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don’t
+seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of
+unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve
+to fatigue it.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their
+Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to
+send in one’s Name to the Duke of <i>Grafton</i>, his Majesty’s Lord
+Chamberlain, and my Lord <i>Grantham</i>, the Queen’s Master of the Horse.
+People go to the King’s Levee, and the Queen’s Drawing-Room, as they do in
+<i>France</i>. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon <i>Sundays</i>, when none
+eat with ’em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square,
+in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of <i>Wales</i>
+on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service
+here is performed in the same Manner as it is in <i>France</i>. The Table is
+plac’d in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very
+Cieling, which are fill’d with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same
+Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at
+Court.<!--453.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">450</a></span>
+Three times
+a Week there’s an Apartment here, called the <i>Drawing-Room</i>, which is
+open’d at Ten o’Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the
+said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the
+Direction of Queen <i>Anne</i>, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St.
+<i>James</i>’s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who
+is led by the Prince of <i>Wales</i>, but by the Princesses her Daughters.
+Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they
+are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy
+to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal,
+and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little
+before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there’s no
+Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the
+Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. <i>James</i>’s Park, or
+the Suburbs of <i>London</i>. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most
+part at <i>Kensington</i>, <i>Windsor</i>, or <i>Hampton-Court</i>, the two last of which
+Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal
+<i>Wolsey</i>, the Favourite of King <i>Henry</i> VIII. and before <i>Lewis</i> XIV.
+began to build; was reckon’d the finest Palace in <i>Europe</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his
+Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir <span class="smcap">Robert
+Walpole</span> is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in <i>Great Britain</i>
+that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not
+less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary
+Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of
+<i>Europe</i>; where ’tis confess’d to be owing to his Direction that the
+Cabinet of St. <i>James</i>’s gives Motion at this Time to
+all<!--454.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">451</a></span>
+<i>Europe</i>, and
+that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all
+Resolutions. Sir <i>Robert Walpole</i> seems, in my Opinion, to be attended
+with the Fate of my Lord Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>, who, tho’ admir’d by the
+whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly
+valued in his own Country, which he crown’d with Glory and Prosperity. I
+shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman’s private Character,
+because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business
+with him, I see him pass along; and that’s all. I want some Neutral Man
+(that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that
+knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so
+fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights
+as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk’d of in Public as one that
+understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who
+thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom
+nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there’s no Man more
+bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true
+Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament;
+where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass’d; and the
+Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.</p>
+
+<p>His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. <i>P——y</i> in the House of
+Commons, and my Lord <i>St——d</i> in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know,
+was for a long time Ambassador from Queen <i>Anne</i> to the Court of <i>Berlin</i>,
+and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign’d the
+Treaty of Peace at <i>Utrecht</i>: He was a Member of the Privy Council when
+the Queen died; but
+King<!--455.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">452</a></span>
+<i>George</i> I. did not think fit continue him; at
+which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in
+Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King <i>George</i>
+I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him
+with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his
+constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny’d
+that his Lordship behav’d with very great Prudence in the Changes that
+happened upon the Accession of the <i>Brunswic</i> Family to the Throne. This
+Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I
+made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul’d by the Duke of
+<i>Ormond</i>, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that
+Duke. “He did all he could, <i>said he</i>, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom
+with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all
+the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we
+had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress;
+that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could
+happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him,
+that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and
+but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the
+Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: <i>I have nothing to reproach
+myself with</i>, my Lord, <i>I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an
+Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the
+Equity of the King, to fear any Thing</i>. The Answer which the Duke made me
+was, <i>Well then</i>, my Lord, <i>I must take the same Farewel of you as the</i>
+Prince of Orange <i>did of</i> Count Egmont. <span
+class="smcap">Farewel</span>,<!--456.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">453</a></span>
+<span class="smcap">Count without a Head.</span> To
+which I replied, <span class="smcap">Farewel, Duke without a Duchy.</span> The Event has shewn, that
+I was a better Prophet than the Duke of <i>Ormond</i>: For I enjoy my Estate in
+Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him.” In the same Conversation
+the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the
+profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when
+Prince of <i>Wales</i>, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and
+Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the
+Summer in the Country, and the Winter at <i>London</i>, where once a Week he
+has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no
+great Expence.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of <i>Newcastle</i> is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely
+civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs,
+in Conjunction with my Lord <i>Harrington</i>, who, when he was only Colonel
+<i>Stanhope</i>, gain’d Reputation as Ambassador in <i>Spain</i>, and at the
+Congress of <i>Soissons</i>. I knew this Minister at <i>Madrid</i> in 1719, and can
+vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the
+World. He is good-natur’d, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy
+of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will
+like him.</p>
+
+<p>I don’t think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so
+haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think,
+that they who say the <i>English</i> are not civil to Foreigners, have not been
+very conversant with ’em. ’Tis true, they are not so engaging as the
+<i>French</i>; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and
+courts their
+Favour,<!--457.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">454</a></span>
+in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil
+as any other People in the World. An <i>Englishman</i> won’t be saying at every
+Turn, <i>That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has
+the Honour to say, to hear</i>, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps
+once in a Conversation, and that’s all; nor, on the other hand, does he
+want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows.
+As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as
+frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the
+<i>English</i> are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly
+all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their
+Travels to <i>France</i>, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come
+into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they
+have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire.</p>
+
+<p>There are some <i>English</i> People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget
+the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage
+to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and
+ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the <i>English</i>; but I was
+convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper,
+which is general to almost the whole Nation. An <i>Englishman</i> of this Cast
+is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take
+Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself,
+and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In
+short, the <i>English</i> have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I
+shall always pay very great Credit to an <i>Englishman</i>, when he tells me,
+that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People,
+’tis absolutely necessary to
+speak<!--458.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">455</a></span>
+their Language. Many of them
+understand <i>French</i> and <i>Italian</i>, but they don’t care to speak foreign
+Languages; and when they do, ’tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now
+Constraint is what the <i>English</i> don’t at all like; for as they enjoy the
+greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to
+every Thing which cramps it.</p>
+
+<p>Their Manners differ extremely from those of the <i>French</i>, which is what
+the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so
+much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the
+Directors of Mankind, and that the <i>English</i> do them an Injustice in not
+following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these
+two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by
+several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the
+one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great
+a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it
+seems to me, that the <i>English</i> are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom,
+and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don’t surfeit
+themselves with those Nothings which the <i>French</i> call Politeness, and
+which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my
+Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a
+complete <i>Frenchman</i>; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled
+to the Manners and Customs of the <i>English</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a
+Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho’ they differ widely
+in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their
+Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho’ <i>London</i> has not
+<!--459.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">456</a></span>such
+as are Devotees to St. <i>Paris</i>, it has other Sectaries, who are as
+senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a
+great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion
+and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I
+think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are
+as many at <i>London</i> as at <i>Paris</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>English</i> are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what
+Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter,
+and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to
+prove, that other Nations, who charge the <i>English</i> with this Vice, are
+more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the
+Conquest of <i>Mexico</i>, the burning of the <i>Palatinate</i>, the Massacre of St.
+<i>Bartholomew</i>, the <i>Sicilian</i> Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of
+Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of
+<i>England</i>. We don’t hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are
+committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here
+than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given
+them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to
+give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. ’Tis
+inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their
+Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I
+give you the following, because I think ’twas very well contrived.</p>
+
+<p>As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely
+bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of
+the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale,
+where he
+met<!--460.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">457</a></span>
+with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach,
+said to him, <i>My Lord, this is a good Gun; ’tis worth a hundred Pieces
+between Friends; I would advise you to buy it</i>. The Nobleman understood
+his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his
+Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing
+that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him,
+that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so
+that my Lord could not recover his Money.</p>
+
+<p>As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much
+more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder
+near <i>London</i>, some Years ago, rode fifty <i>French</i> Leagues that Day, upon
+the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe,
+he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he
+sat up, <i>I call you to witness</i>, said he, <i>that at such an Hour I came
+hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing</i>. They
+gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he
+was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were
+just going to condemn him, when he ask’d them, At what o’Clock the Murder
+was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, <i>How come you to
+think</i>, said he, <i>that ’twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of
+which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place
+where ’twas committed</i>? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to
+be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty.
+Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask’d him
+privately how it was; and the
+Highwayman,<!--461.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">458</a></span>
+after having made him promise
+to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.</p>
+
+<p>I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you,
+that the <i>English</i> are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their
+Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There
+are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is
+condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or
+Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank
+with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than
+twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found.
+The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be
+agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed
+Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but
+two Sorts of Execution known here, <i>viz.</i> Hanging and Beheading, of which
+the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.</p>
+
+<p>It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the <i>English</i> are as
+humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions;
+as if ’twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that ’twas not enough to
+take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one
+Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.</p>
+
+<p>The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason
+of the Courage with which most of ’em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw
+five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well
+pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not
+performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not
+that Number
+of<!--462.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">459</a></span>
+Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes
+a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows
+here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of
+it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the
+Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull
+him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without
+Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least
+of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>’Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an <i>Englishman</i>, to be
+intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of
+that Contempt of Life; yet we can’t help admiring it in the <i>Romans</i>, from
+whom the <i>English</i> have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End
+to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but
+too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well
+as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters
+from <i>Paris</i>, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang’d themselves
+at <i>London</i>, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought
+unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not
+apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror.
+Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for
+such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other
+Nations don’t seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the
+<i>English</i>, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one
+rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the
+<i>English</i> then to be so free with Life? Does it
+proceed<!--463.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">460</a></span>
+from a greater
+Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?</p>
+
+<p>A great many of ’em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if
+I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be
+for an <i>English</i> Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty
+and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and
+such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho’ not universally pleasing, yet
+captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I
+should have gone very much astray. Most of the <i>English</i> Women are
+handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to
+pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. ’Tis a Pleasure to see
+them blush. The frankest of ’em retain an Air of Modesty, which would
+persuade one, that they don’t affect to be wicked. They are commonly very
+richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the <i>French</i> Ladies,
+which is the only Fault that I find with ’em. They seem to affect Dressing
+to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves,
+which don’t reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no
+Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat
+Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and
+monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and ’tis as rare to
+see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at <i>Paris</i> in a
+full Dress. I wish the <i>English</i> Ladies would take Pattern by the <i>French</i>
+a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in
+their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set
+themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should
+be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the <i>French</i> Air and
+<!--464.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">461</a></span>Dress
+so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country,
+which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good
+Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of
+the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is
+very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill
+becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I
+believe ’tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning
+Virtue.</p>
+
+<p>The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give
+and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being
+seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most
+Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks,
+Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved,
+have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their
+Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly
+of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look’d upon one
+another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other
+Place where there’s a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue
+stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn
+out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in
+form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and
+in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take
+the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind
+to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble
+themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and
+of too good
+Sense,<!--465.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">462</a></span>
+to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their
+Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here
+than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the <i>English</i>, to take a great
+deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that <i>Hercules</i>’s Love for
+<i>Omphale</i> will never be equalled in this Country.</p>
+
+<p>The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have
+known <i>Englishmen</i>, at their Return from <i>Paris</i>, say, they thought
+<i>London</i> too dull a Place for ’em to live in. Others would argue with me,
+that there’s more Diversion at <i>Rome</i>. You know, Sir, what I have related
+to you, of the Pleasures both of <i>Rome</i> and <i>Paris</i>; and after I have
+given you an Account of those of <i>London</i>, such as they are, or may be
+taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those <i>Frenchify’d</i> or <i>Italianized
+Englishmen</i>, and me.</p>
+
+<p>A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a
+Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the
+other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee,
+has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium
+betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the
+Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes
+his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body’d Coat,
+without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword
+at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly
+the Place he walks to, because ’tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There
+he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes
+home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or
+Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for ’tis
+a<!--466.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">463</a></span>
+sort
+of Rule with the <i>English</i>, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this
+Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often
+look at one another, without opening their Lips; and ’tis very well they
+are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other
+Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no
+hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in
+St. <i>James</i>’s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time,
+is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes,
+and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs
+nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o’Clock, they go to
+Court, to the King’s Levee, and from thence to the Queen’s Apartment,
+where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three
+o’Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are
+very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private
+Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at
+the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a
+Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don’t drink the same Sort, with
+Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the
+Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he
+pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always
+drink too much, because they sit too long at it.</p>
+
+<p>When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out
+again for the Air, either in a Coach to <i>Hide</i> Park, where the Ring is, or
+else on Foot to St. <i>James</i>’s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till
+the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate
+Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large.
+After<!--467.png--><span class="pagenum">464</span>
+the Opera’s or
+Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative,
+sometimes at one Lord’s House, and sometimes at another’s, or else they
+repair to the <i>Drawing-room</i>. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies
+formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and <i>Bacchus</i> is commonly seconded
+by <i>Venus</i>. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after
+what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse
+himself at <i>London</i>, as at <i>Paris</i> and <i>Rome</i>. Believe me, that they who
+say that this City is too melancholy for ’em, only say so to give
+themselves an Air.</p>
+
+<p>At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy
+as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each
+Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason
+that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance
+of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love
+with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and
+in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together
+make very good Fare. There’s one Custom established in these Houses, which
+to be sure you would not dislike, <i>viz.</i> That at the first Time of a Man’s
+Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a
+Kiss, which tho’ but a very modest one, ’tis a Pleasure to see a Colour
+come into the Lady’s Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second
+Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has
+been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House:
+And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House
+at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four
+times
+a<!--468.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">465</a></span>
+Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would
+serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the <i>English</i>
+keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay
+their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of
+their Class in the World.</p>
+
+<p>The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there’s the best of
+Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the
+Cabarets of <i>Paris</i>, where the Table Linen is generally very course and
+dirty.</p>
+
+<p>The Assemblies here are so throng’d, that there’s hardly any stirring.
+Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables.
+Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm
+of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass
+mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another’s Health; but ’tis
+in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.</p>
+
+<p>The gayest and most numerous Assembly in <i>Europe</i> is upon the Ball-Days at
+the Grand Theatre in the <i>Hay Market</i>. I can safely say, that I never saw
+a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand
+in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated
+with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable,
+besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous
+Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely
+illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there’s Play.
+The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform’d by the ablest Musicians
+in <i>London</i>. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these
+Balls the Company are often mask’d, and then the King and the Prince of
+<i>Wales</i>
+honour<!--469.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">466</a></span>
+them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses
+are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well
+dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for
+there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The
+<i>English</i> Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a
+time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives
+Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are
+so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the
+<i>French</i>, than the Sedateness of the <i>English</i>.</p>
+
+<p>As to Plays, the <i>English</i> are fond of them, and have more of ’em than any
+other Nation. They have an <i>Italian</i> Opera, which is the best and most
+magnificent in <i>Europe</i>. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea
+for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though ’tis always crouded,
+yet it won’t defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the
+Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant;
+but then they have the best Voices of <i>Italy</i>. An Actor, whose Name is
+<i>Senesino</i>, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents
+in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one
+<i>Handel</i>, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression,
+but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think
+his Music not so affecting as ’tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine,
+and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at <i>Paris</i>.
+The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form
+Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good
+Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax
+candles.
+There’s<!--470.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467">467</a></span>
+Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque
+Interlude.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the <i>Italian</i> Opera, there’s an <i>English</i> one, where they sing
+only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than
+when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or
+beating himself.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>English</i> Comedy is no less esteemed by the <i>English</i>, than it has
+been severely criticiz’d by the <i>French</i>, who say, ’tis not comparable to
+theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very
+gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my
+Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the
+<i>French</i> are too much cramp’d by their Rules, and the <i>English</i> not
+enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste,
+the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho’ the <i>English</i> are not
+such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of
+Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much
+prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own
+Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such <i>French</i> Pieces,
+where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of
+<i>Brutus</i> by <i>Voltaire</i> is just translated here, which is a Piece that has
+had a better Run even at <i>London</i>, than at <i>Paris</i>; and as it was composed
+by the Author in <i>England</i>, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom
+of Thinking among the <i>English</i>, that he had in some measure forgot he was
+a <i>Frenchman</i>, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.</p>
+
+<p>The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in
+which the <i>English</i> seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner
+very different from us. They ride
+exceeding<!--471.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468">468</a></span>
+hard, and hunt a poor Hare
+with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and
+their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not
+the like in the World for Speed; so that <i>England</i> furnishes almost all
+the Nobility in <i>Europe</i> with Horses and Dogs, as the King of <i>Denmark</i>
+does with Falcons.</p>
+
+<p>The Swiftness of the <i>English</i> Horses is the Reason that there are
+Horse-Races every Year at a Place called <i>Newmarket</i>; and this really is
+what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several
+Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in <i>Italy</i>.
+They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend
+which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of
+them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without
+a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with
+’em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds
+Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of
+<i>Plutus</i>, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to
+be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him.
+Such is the Custom of the <i>English</i>, who not only pay those handsomely who
+contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be
+seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such
+Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that
+play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have
+also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer
+has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then
+taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a
+Favourite of the Town,
+as<!--472.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">469</a></span>
+Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for
+whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than
+they shall make use of, for the Party’s Encouragement. This Generosity of
+the <i>English</i> towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a
+particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing
+too fine, nor too dear. Thus, ’tis not to Assiduity that they are willing
+to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and
+their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abbés of <i>Rome</i>,
+of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress.</p>
+
+<p>These Abbés put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called <i>Chaplains</i>,
+whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the
+Reformation of the Church of <i>England</i>, their Revenues were not very much
+impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know
+not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the
+same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine,
+that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the <i>English</i> are subject
+to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the
+Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. ’Tis said that
+they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform
+Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead
+of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that
+extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which
+commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you
+of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the
+<i>English</i> Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals,
+Prize-fighters,
+Wrestlers,<!--473.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">470</a></span>
+and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that
+contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and
+Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the <i>English</i> are descended
+from <i>Mutius Scævola</i>, because, like that <i>Roman</i>, they despise Pain.
+Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with
+Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. <i>James</i>’s
+Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many
+Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped
+himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this
+State of Nature he travers’d along the Mall, thro’ an infinite Concourse
+of People. The Ladies, astonish’d at such a Sight, knew not how to keep
+their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces
+with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him
+pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths,
+near <i>Whitehall</i>, where he left ’em; and as he had won the Wager,
+abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him
+Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur’d and happy as the
+<i>English</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the
+Parties they make for the Country. This the <i>English</i> set a great Value
+upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very
+beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always
+a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the
+Country the <i>English</i> live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at
+<i>London</i> they live for most part like mere private Men.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of <i>London</i>,
+particularly
+along<!--474.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">471</a></span>
+the <i>Thames</i>. I cannot conceive how a Native of
+<i>England</i>, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to
+leave these Regions, as a great many <i>English</i> nevertheless do, who prefer
+Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I
+confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in <i>England</i>, I
+would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the
+Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so
+troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, ’tis for this Cause
+that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape
+does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is
+supplied by the Grapes of <i>Spain</i> and <i>Portugal</i>, which are imported here
+in Abundance.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the
+happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and
+well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain
+Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination
+which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who
+makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv’d by him as his Equal, without being
+made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the
+Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here;
+for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of
+Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them.</p>
+
+<p>The Great Men here, as well as in <i>France</i>, don’t scruple to marry Women
+of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made
+between the <i>English</i> Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The
+<i>English</i> are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom,
+<!--475.png--><span class="pagenum">472</span>and
+we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage,
+when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of
+their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant’s Daughter, she
+sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish’d Family; whereas
+in <i>France</i>, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian.</p>
+
+<p>These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I
+wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I
+may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean
+time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly
+persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 291px;">
+<img src="images/i008.png" width="291" height="242" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<!--476.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">473</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i009.png" width="400" height="36" alt="Decoration." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>An Alphabetical INDEX<br />
+<br />
+TO THE<br />
+<br />
+SECOND VOLUME.</h2>
+
+<dl class="index">
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">A</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Abbés</i>, <i>Italian</i>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Five or six club for one Mistress, <a href="#Page_469">469</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Abbesses</i> that preach’d, bless’d and confess’d, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Academy, French.</i></dt>
+  <dd>Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Acquaviva</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Charles</i>, Pr. of, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Acunha, Lewis de</i>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Agasias</i> the <i>Ephesian</i>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Agnus Dei</i>’s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and Consecration, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Agrippa</i>, Emperor, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Agrippina</i>, the Mother of <i>Nero</i>, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Aignan</i>, (<i>St.</i>) Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Aix la Chapelle</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Reliques exposed there, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Aix</i> Parliament.</dt>
+  <dd>The <i>Jansenists</i> with the Members hang’d, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than <i>Pilate</i>, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Alacoque Maria</i>, made a Saint by a Bishop, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alais</i>, Count de, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Albano</i> Cardinal, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Albemarle</i>, Earl and Countess, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alberoni</i>’s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of Churches, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Clement</i> XIth’s Design to deprive him of the Hat, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Albert</i>, Archduke of <i>Austria</i>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Albert the Great</i>, Bishop of <i>Ratisbon</i>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Albert</i>, Cardinal of <i>Brandenbourg</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Albin, St.</i> Abbé of, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alcmaer</i>, t. <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alegre</i>, Marshal, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alexander Farnese</i>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alexander</i> VI. Pope, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Alexandria</span> <i>de la Paille</i>, t. <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Aliberti</i>, Count, his Theatre, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alincourt</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Almanza</i> Victory, to what ascrib’d, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alstein</i>, a <i>German</i> Minister, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Altelli</i>, General of the <i>Corsicans</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Alva</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ambiorix</i>, King, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ambrun</i>, Council of, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Amelia</i>, Princess, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Amende honorable</i>, Punishment, what, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Amerongen</i>, Brigadier <i>de</i>.</dt>
+  <dd>The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--477.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Amsterdam</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Anabaptist</i>, <i>Dutch</i>, his Zeal for Comedy, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Andernach</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Angelo, Michael</i>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Angelo</i>, Castle, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Angervilliers</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Anne</i> of <i>Austria</i>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— of <i>Bavaria</i>, the Palatine, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Queen of <i>England</i>, Reflection on her Statue at St. <i>Paul</i>’s, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Princess Royal of <i>England</i>, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Anna Maria Frances</i> of <i>Saxe-Lawenburg</i>, Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Antin</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Son, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Antonine</i> Pillar, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Antoninus Caracalla</i>, Emperor, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Antoninus</i> and <i>Faustina</i>’s Temple at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Antwerp</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ara Ubiorum</i> of the Ancients, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Archduchess</i>, Governess of the <i>Netherlands</i>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, to <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ardicinio</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Aremberg</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces in the <i>Austrian Netherlands</i>) <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Argenson</i>, M. <i>de</i>, Keeper of the Seals, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Armagnac</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Armand</i> his extraordinary Adventures, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Armenonville</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Arno</i>, R. <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ascanio</i>, the <i>Spanish</i> Minister, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Asfeldt</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Asperen</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Assassins</i>, Sanctuary at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Assemblies</i>, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Astalli</i>, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of his Hat, 93 to <a href="#Page_95">95</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Asti</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Astrologer</i>, <i>Turkish</i>, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father, Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Athlone</i>, Earl of, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Aubigny</i>, <i>Theodore de</i>, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Frances de</i>, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness <i>de Maintenon</i>, 262 to <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Family, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Audenarde</i>, Battle, to what the <i>French</i> ascribe the Loss of it, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Audiences</i>, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>August</i>, Snow in that Month, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Augustus</i>, Emperor, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— King of <i>Poland</i>. The Countess of <i>Wartemberg</i>’s Attack upon him, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Auricular Confession</i>, why abolish’d throughout the <i>East</i>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Author</i>, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>—— At what Age he could like to be a <i>Frenchman</i>, and at what an <i>Englishman</i>, <a href="#Page_455">455</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>—— His Father’s Death, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Auverquerque, Maurice</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Auxerre</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ayrolles</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">B</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bacharach</i>, Wine, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Baden</i>, Princess, marry’d to the Duke of <i>Orleans</i>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Treaty there, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>How Prince <i>Lewis</i> was surpriz’d by M. <i>Villars</i>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--478.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bagnolet</i> Village, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Baker</i> castrated by his jealous Wife, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Balbi, James</i>, a <i>Genoese</i> Nobleman, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Balls</i> at the <i>Haymarket</i>, magnificent, <a href="#Page_465">465</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Banchieri</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bank Bills</i>, French, 245 to <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Of <i>Amsterdam</i>, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Barberini</i> Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Cardinal, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Palace, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Barcelona</i> reduc’d, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bareith</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Baron</i>, a <i>French</i> Comedian and Coxcomb, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Barre, John</i>, his extraordinary Adventures, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Barricades</i> of <i>Paris</i> erected, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bavaria</i>, Elector of, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Beaufort</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Beaujolois</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Becker</i>, M. <i>de</i>, Chancellor, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Belisarius</i>’s Statue, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Belle-Isle</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Benedict</i> XIII. Pope, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>. His Credulity abus’d by the Cardinals, particularly <i>Coscia</i>; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>A Reflection on his Ministers, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Benefices</i>, Instances of Pluralities, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Benefit-Nights</i> at the Theatre, <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Bensberg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bentivoglio</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about <i>Parma</i>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Death and Successor, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— Marquis, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Berg</i>, Country, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bernini Lorenzo</i>, Architect, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— The Sculptor, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Berry</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Berwic, James</i>, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Death and Successor, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His great Aversion to the <i>English</i>, and Ingratitude to the King of <i>Spain</i>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Beverwert</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bichi</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Bingen</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Binger-Loch</i>, a Cascade upon the <i>Rhine</i>, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bissi</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Blanc</i>, M. <i>le</i>, Secretary, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Blaspiel</i>, Baron and Baroness <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>, <a href="#Page_364">364</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bleickert</i> Wine, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Blood Divine</i>, suck’d by the Pope, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bodies Human</i>, a Thought concerning them, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Boerhaave</i>, Professor, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Boetselaars</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bois</i>, Cardinal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Story of his Marriage, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Tomb, and Remark upon it, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Bologna</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bolognetti</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Countess, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Boniface</i> VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Bonn</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bonnet</i>, (<i>St.</i>) an Officer, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bookselling Trade</i>, the Centre of it, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bookbinder</i> and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bork</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Borghese</i>, Prince, his Palace, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Family the Favourites of St. <i>Peter</i>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--479.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Borghese, Scipio</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Borgia</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>—— Casar</i>, Duke <i>de Valentinois</i>, his Contrivance to poison a Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Borgo</i>, Marquis <i>del</i>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bossu</i>, Cardinal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bot</i>, General, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Boufflers</i>, Marshal, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bougir</i>’s House at <i>Aix la Chapelle</i>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bourbon</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>How he lost an Eye, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Made Superintendant of the King’s Education, and Prime Minister, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Displac’d, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Marriage, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— Duchess of, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brandenburg Anspach</i>, Margrave, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Breteuil</i>, M. <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brignole</i>, Messieurs, of <i>Genoa</i>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Brille</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brioche, Swiss</i>, burnt for a Conjurer, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brosse</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brouffel</i> arrested by <i>Anne</i> of <i>Austria</i>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Bruges</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bruhl</i>, Seat of the Elector of <i>Cologne</i>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brunette</i>, Fort <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Brunswic</i>, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>—— Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Brussels</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Brutus</i>’s Tragedy by <i>Voltaire</i>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_467">467</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bucentaur</i> of <i>Venice</i>, the Oath taken by her Captain, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Buckingham</i> House, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Duchess Dowager, <i>ib.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Bullen, Anne</i>, Queen, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Buonarota, Mich. Angelo</i>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Buoncompagno</i>, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy Sepulchre, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Funeral, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Burgomasters, Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Burgundians</i>, their Character, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Burgundy</i>, Wine, counterfeited, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Burgundy</i>, Duke, his Honour vindicated, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>How much he is still venerated in <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Bussy, Rabutin</i>’s Letters, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">C</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cadiere</i>, Mademoiselle <i>la</i>, her Affair with <i>Girard</i> her Father Confessor, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Recantation of the Charge against him, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Cadogan</i>, Earl and Countess, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Calf</i>, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Cambray</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Congress, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Campagna di Roma</i>, infested by Locusts, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Campo Vaccino</i>, Square, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Canals</i>, <i>Canards</i>, and <i>Canaille</i> <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Canons</i>, where they have the Title of Counts, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Capitol</i>, of <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Caponi</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Carache, Annibal</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Caraffa, John Peter</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cardinals in Petto</i>, what, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Manner of going Abroad, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Dress, and a Vindication of ’em from Luxury, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown’d Heads, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--480.png-->  Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, <i>ib.</i></dd>
+  <dd>How they came to the Title of Eminency, <i>ib.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign’d it, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Why they always take their own Liquor with them, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Carignan</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Carlos</i>, Don, his Journey to <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>A Prophecy of <i>Nostradamus</i> apply’d to him, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Carnival</i>, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Caroline</i>, Princess, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Carolis</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Carpentier</i>, a <i>French</i> Refugee in <i>Holland</i>, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Carpinetti</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Casimir, John</i> of <i>Poland</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>King, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Cassius, Florus</i>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Castor</i> and <i>Pollux</i>, represented by two great Horses, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Catharine</i>, Queen, Wife to <i>Hen.</i> VIII. <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Wife to <i>Char.</i> II. threatened by a Lady never to be visited again, till she could be seen for 6 <i>d.</i> <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Catinat</i>, Marshal de, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cellamare</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cenis</i>, Mountain, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cevennois</i> Rebellion suppressed, how, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Chalons</span>, upon the <i>Saone</i>, t. <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chamber</i> of Justice in <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Chamberry</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chantilly</i>, Seat, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chaplains, English</i>, <a href="#Page_469">469</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Charlemagne</i>, Emperor, <a href="#Page_325">325</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Charles Emanuel</i> II. of <i>Savoy</i>, his finishing a Road on the <i>Alpes</i>, which the <i>Romans</i> began, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Charles</i> V. Emperor, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>, <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Declaration about the <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— VI. Emperor. <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Addresses to the Princess (the late Queen of <i>Great Britain</i>) <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Charles</i> I. King of <i>England</i>, the Window from which he walk’d to the Scaffold, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Statue. <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— II. King of <i>England</i>, his Statue, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Menace of the City of <i>London</i>, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Design to improve St. <i>James</i>’s Park, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— King of <i>Sardinia</i>, his dutiful Conduct towards his Father, at and after his Abdication, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Queen, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Charni</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, General, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Charolois</i>, Count <i>de</i>, 212 to <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Madem. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Charost</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chartres</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Madem. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Châtelain</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_383">383</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chauvelin</i>, M. <i>de</i>, Keeper of the Seals, (just remov’d) <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chelles</i>, Abbess of, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chesterfield</i>, Earl of, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Children</i>, 365</dt>
+  <dd>born at once, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Chimay</i>, Prince <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Chocolate-house</i>, in St. <i>James</i>’s <i>street</i>, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Choisy</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Christina</i>, Queen of <i>Sweden</i>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>A cruel Action of hers, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Church</i>, built by a Lottery, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Churchill, Arabella</i>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cibo</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Alaric</i>, ibid.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Cicero</i>’s, in <i>Italy</i>, what, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cicisbei</i>, the Name of those who gallant the <i>Genoese</i> Ladies, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--481.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cienfuegos</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor in the Affair of <i>Parma</i>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Theft he committed in <i>Westminster</i> Abbey, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Claude</i>, of <i>Lorain</i>, Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Clement Augustus</i>, Elector of <i>Cologne</i>, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Revenue, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Brothers, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Aggrandisement asserted to be for the Interest of Popery, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Clement</i> XI. (Pope) his Design against Cardinal <i>Alberoni</i>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— XII. Pope, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Election, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Adoration of the Cardinals to him, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Coronation, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Our Author’s Audience, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Promotion of Cardinals, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His great Age and Ailments, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Severity, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>General Character, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Concern for losing the Duchy of <i>Parma</i>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— <i>James</i>, the Assassin, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Clermont</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Cleves</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cloud</i>, <i>St.</i> Duke of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Palace of, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Clovis</i>, King of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Coblentz</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Coffee-Houses</i>, much frequented by the <i>English</i>, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cologne</i>, Elector of, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>City, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Colonna</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Signior, a Prelate, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Constable, and Family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Comedies</i>, <i>French</i> and <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Comptroller</i> General’s Office in <i>France</i>, compar’d to the Post of the <i>Grand Vizier</i>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Conclave</i>, for the Choice of a Pope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Concord</i>, Temple of, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Conde</i>, Family, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Hon. Julius</i> of <i>Bourbon</i>, Prin. <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <i>Louisa Benedictina</i>, Princ. <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Consistories</i> of <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Constantine</i>, Arch. at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Conti</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Family of, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Princess Dowager of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, 217-220.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Lewis</i> of <i>Bourbon</i>, Prince, his Marriage, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Mademoiselle, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cornetto, Adrian</i>, Cardinal, a Design to poison him, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cornicchini, Augustin</i>, the Statuary, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Coronation</i> Chair, of the <i>English</i> Sovereigns, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Corpus Christi</i>, Ceremonies on that Day at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>and at <i>St. Sulpice</i>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Correggio</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Corsica</i>, Island, more Cost than Worship to the <i>Genoese</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Corsicans</i>, call’d the Devils of <i>Italy</i>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their War with the <i>Genoese</i>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Corsini</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Election to be Pope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Nephew, <i>Neri Corsini</i>, a Cardinal, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dd>
+  <dd><i>Bartholomew</i>, another, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</dd>
+  <dd><i>Philip</i>, his great Nephew, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Character of his Nephews, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Mesdames, the Popes Nieces, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Antipathy to Cardinal <i>Bichi</i>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Cortona, Peter</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Coscia</i>, Cardinal, his Abuse of the Pope’s Credulity, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Bargain with <i>Ruspoli</i>’s Father, to get his Son a Cardinal’s Hat, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Another of his Bargains of that sort, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Treatment by the Popes, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Imprisonment, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Cosmo</i>, I. II. III. Great Dukes of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Statue of the First, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--482.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Costa</i>, Auditor General of <i>Corsica</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Coster, Laurence</i>, of <i>Harlem</i>, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Courland</i>, Dukes Kettlers, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Courtray</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Craggs</i>, Secretary, his Monument, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Crescens</i>, St., Disciple of St. <i>Paul</i>, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Crumpiper, Henry</i>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Culmbache, Brandenburgh</i>, Princess of, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cumberland</i>, (Prince <i>William</i>) D. of, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cumiane</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Curtius</i>’s Statue, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Cyr, St.</i> Abbey of, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">D</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Daguesseau</i>, M. Chancellor, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dalberg</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Damasus</i> II. Pope, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dammartin</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dangeau</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Daphne</i>’s Metamorphosis, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Davia</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>David</i> with his Sling, a Statue, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Daun</i>, Marshal, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dauphin</i>, of <i>France</i>, whence that Title, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dauphiné</i>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Delft</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_400">400</a>, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Denain</i>, Battle, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Denys</i>, Saint, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Devenish</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Devils</i> of <i>Italy</i>, who, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Devos</i>’s Tapistry, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dickson</i>, Colonel, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Dijon</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dirce</i>, her Fable, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dobelstein</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dohna</i>, <i>Alexander de</i>, Count, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Ferassier de</i>, Count, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dombes</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Principality, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Doria</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— General, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ducks</i>, in abundance, <a href="#Page_418">418</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Duisbourg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dulis</i>, a <i>Jew</i>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dunbar</i>, Lord, his Station at the Pretender’s Court, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Marriage of Princess <i>Sobleski</i> by Proxy, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Duncan</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dunchstein</i>, Mineral Water, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Dusseldorf</span>, <i>t</i> <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Dutch</i>, vindicated from Treachery, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their common Food, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Coffee-houses, and Comedies, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Assemblies, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Dress, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Lasses, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Dyck, Van</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">E</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Echelles</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Edward</i> I. King of <i>England</i>, the Trophy he brought from <i>Scotland</i>, of his Conquest, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Egmont</i>, Count, the Prince of <i>Orange</i>’s Farewell of him, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Palace in <i>Brussels</i>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Elbeue, de</i>, Commandeur, the <i>Tuscan</i> Minister, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Eleanor</i>, of <i>Toledo</i>, Gr. Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— of <i>Provence</i>, Wife to K. <i>Hen.</i> III. <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Eminency</i>, how that Title came to the Cardinals, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Emperors, German</i>, their Manner of giving Audience, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Enckhuisen</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>England</i>’s Kings, their Power and Court, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its Soil and Climate, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>, <a href="#Page_471">471</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Englishmen</i>, said to be better Abroad than at Home, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their Manners, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i> <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Dress of the Courtier and the Citizen, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Genius of the Nation, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Vindicated from Disaffection to their Kings, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--483.png-->  Applauded for defending their Rights, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their friendly, tho’ melancholy Tempers, and their Aversion to Constraint, <a href="#Page_454">454</a>, <a href="#Page_455">455</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Diversions, <a href="#Page_467">467</a>, <a href="#Page_469">469</a>, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Manners compared with the French <a href="#Page_455">455</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Vindicated from Cruelty, <a href="#Page_457">457</a>, <a href="#Page_458">458</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their too great Freedom with Life, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Womens Beauty, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Behaviour in Public, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Why the <i>English</i> are supposed to be descended from <i>Mutius Scavola</i>, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>An Influence of their Good-nature and Happiness, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Blam’d for preferring other Countries to their own, <a href="#Page_471">471</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their different Living in the Country from the City, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Epernon</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Epitaph</i> upon Epitaphs, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Erasmus</i>’s Statue, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Essex</i>, Earl of, his Head expos’d, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Estrades</i>, Count <i>de</i>, Ambassador, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Estrées</i>, Marshal <i>de</i>, <i>Victor Maria</i>, his Conduct, Character, Dignities, Family, Estate, and his fine Diamonds, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Gabriella de</i>, Mistress to <i>Henry</i> IV. of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Eu</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Eugene</i>, of <i>Savoy</i>, Prince, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Evremont</i>, M. his Monument, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Eysenach, Saxe</i>, Princess of, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">F</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fagel, Gressier</i>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Farnese, Francis</i>, Duke of <i>Parma</i>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Farnese</i>, Palace, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Faustina, Signora</i>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Faustus, John</i> of <i>Mentz</i>, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fest</i>, Ceremony of washing them on <i>Holy Thursday</i>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Feldtbruck</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, the severe Test she requir’d of her Lover’s Affection, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fenelon</i>, Archbishop of <i>Cambray</i>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Brigadier and Ambassador, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ferdinand de Medicis</i>, Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ferrayo</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ferrero</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Filippucci</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fine Gentleman</i>, his Character, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fiochi</i>, of the Cardinals, what it means, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fireworks of Germany</i>, expensive, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Flax</i>, why burnt at the Pope’s Coronation, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Flemings</i>, unsociable, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Flemish Woman</i>, good Topers, <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fleury</i>, Cardinal <i>de</i>, made Prime Minister, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Character, 228 to <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Florence</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Florentin</i>, Count <i>de St.</i> <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Flowers</i>, beautiful, where, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Fontainebleau</span>, Palace and Town, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fontana</i>, the Architect, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Force</i>, Duke <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>France</i>, whether ’twas her Interest to enter into the last War, 232 to <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Francis</i>, I. King of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Francis de Medicis</i>, Great Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Frangipani</i>, Marquis, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Frederic</i>, King of <i>Bohemia</i>, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Elector of <i>Brandenburg</i>, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Augustus</i>, King of <i>Poland</i>, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--484.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Frederic</i>, King of <i>Prussia</i>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Frejus</i>, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>French</i>, how they accounted for the Loss of so many Battles in the last War, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Not so modest as the Allies, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Levity, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their good Qualities, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Fashions, by whom to be followed, and by whom avoided, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Frêne</i>, M. <i>du</i>, a famous French Comedian, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Fribourg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fridlingen</i> Battle, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Frouley</i>, Count <i>de</i>, Ambassador, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Fugger</i>, Countess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Furius Camillus</i>, the Dictator, his Vow, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Furstenberg</i>, Princess, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">G</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Galen, Bernard de</i>, Bishop, the Terror of the <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Galloway</i>, Lord, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gamarre</i>, the <i>Spanish</i> Ambassador’s Dispute with M. <i>de Thon</i>, a <i>French</i> Ambassador, about Precedency, <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gamesters</i>, order’d to the Gallies, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gaming</i>, prohibited by the Pope, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— One of the Plagues of the <i>French</i> Nation, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>What their Ladies call a Man who does not play, and what the Men say of Gaming in general, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>How Gamesters are caress’d at many Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gaming, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Who have a Grant for licensing it, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Gardening</i>, in <i>Italy</i>, declin’d, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gasse</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gaston, John</i>. See <i>Tuscany</i>’s Great Duke.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gaydon</i>, Major, in the Pretender’s Service, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gendre, Peter le</i>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Genoa</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its Neighbourhood, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Bombardment by the <i>French</i>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Character of the <i>Genoese</i>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their War with the <i>Corsicans</i>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Gentili</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gentlemen</i>, whether that Title be more due to Stage-Players, than to Rope-Dancers or Tumblers, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>George</i> I. King <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Statue, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Compar’d to <i>Augustus</i>, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>George</i> II. King, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Queen, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Manner of Dining in Public, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Drawing-Room, <a href="#Page_456">456</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Gerard, Balthasar</i>, the Assassin, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gergy</i>, Parson of <i>St. Sulpice</i>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— His Brother, Bishop of <i>Soissons</i>, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Another, Ambassador at <i>Venice</i>, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Germain</i>, (<i>St.</i>) Abbat and Friers, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>German</i> Princes, wiser than the <i>Italian</i>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Germany</i>, the Strength of the Protestants and Papists there, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gevres</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Ghent</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Giafferi</i>, Leader of the <i>Corsican</i> Rebels, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Girard</i>, Father, his Affair with a Lady at Confession, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Giudici</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--485.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gladiators</i>, Statue, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Golofskin</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Golstein</i>, Countess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gondrin</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gondulphus</i>, Bishop, his Ghost, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gondy</i>, Francis <i>de</i>, Archbishop of <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gonzague</i>, Cardinals, their Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Goudenau</i>, Marshal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grafton</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grammont</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grana</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grantham</i>, Earl of, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>s’Gravesande</i>, Professor, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>Great Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>, by whom the Title was invented, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Greenwich</i> Hospital, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Gregory the Great</i>, Pope, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gregory</i> XIII. Pope, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Gregory</i> XV. Pope, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Grenoble</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Greys</i>, M. <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grilli</i> (Locusts) apply’d to a Family of that Name, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grimani</i>, Cardinal Legate, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Grosvenor</i>’s Square, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Guadagno</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Guiccardi</i>, Count, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Guido</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">H</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hackney</i>, the Ceremony of presenting it to the See of <i>Rome</i> for <i>Naples</i>, 42 to <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Hague</span>, Village, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Halle</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Handel</i>, the Composer, <a href="#Page_466">466</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Handkerchief</i> of our Saviour, a Relique to be seen in three Places, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hanover Family</i>, the Temper with which they received the News of their Accession to the <i>British</i> Throne, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hapsbourg</i>, Count, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Harlai</i>, President, his Repartee to the <i>French</i> Comedians, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Harlem</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Harrach, Frederic</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Harrington</i>, Lord, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Harwich</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hass</i>, M. the <i>Saxon</i>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hats</i>, Cardinals, why red, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hatto</i>, Bishop, pursued and gnawed by Rats, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hawitz</i>, Grand Marshal, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Haxhausen</i>, General, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hayes</i>, Mr. and Mrs. styl’d Lord and Lady <i>Inverness</i>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hazard</i>, Play, prohibited by the Pope, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Heidelberg</i> Library, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Helvoetsluys</span>, <i>t.</i> 417 to <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Henneberg</i>, Countess of. See <i>Holland</i>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Henry</i> III. King of <i>France</i>, his Assassination, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Ill Omens observ’d at his Consecration, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt>—— King of <i>England</i>, his Wife, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— VIIth’s Chapel, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Henry</i> of <i>Portugal</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Henry</i> of <i>Bavaria</i>, Emperor, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Herenhausen</i> Water-Works, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hermaphrodite</i> Statue, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Herod</i>, whither banish’d, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hesse Rhinfels</i>, Princess of, (late) Queen of <i>Sardinia</i>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Eleonora</i>, Duchess of <i>Bourbon</i>, her Marriage, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hesse Cassel</i>, Prince <i>Williams</i>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Landgrave, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Charles</i>, Landgrave, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Highwayman</i>’s remarkable Escape, <a href="#Page_457">457</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hildebold</i>, Archbishop of <i>Cologn</i>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hochstet</i>, Battle, to what the <i>French</i> ascribe the Loss of it, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--486.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hogendorp</i>, M. <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hohen-Zollern</i>, Count de, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Holland, Florence</i> IV. Count of, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Holland</i>, Countess of, his Daughter, deliver’d of three hundred sixty-five Children at a Birth, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Holy Ghost</i>, Picture of a Cardinal taking Aim at him with a Fusee, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Holy Week</i>, how observed at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hompesch</i>, General, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Honslaerdyck</i>, Palace, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Hoornbeck</i>, Pensionary, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Horne</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Horses</i>, Dogs, and Falcons, where they abound most, <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>House</i>, in the Wood, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Howard</i>, Family of, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">I</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Jacob</i>’s Pillow, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Jagellon</i>, K. of <i>Poland</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. James</i>’s Palace and Park, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Square, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Church, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>James</i> II. King, censur’d for neglecting a very precious Relique, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Jew, Dutch</i>, his Zeal for the Opera, in Opposition to an Anabaptist, who was as hot for Comedy, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Jews</i>, at <i>Amsterdam</i>, <a href="#Page_388">388</a>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Imperiali</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>NB.</i> He dy’d in <i>January</i> 1736-7.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>India</i>, Company, <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_388">388</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Infanta</i> of <i>Spain</i>, sent back from <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ingelheim</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Innocent</i> IV. Pope, his Order about Cardinals Hats, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Innocent</i> X. Pope, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Inquisition</i>, at <i>Rome</i>, not so bad as represented, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Congregation of the Holy Office, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Invalids</i>, Hospital, at <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Inverness</i>, Lord and Lady, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Joan</i>, of <i>Austria</i>, Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Joannino</i>, the Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>’s <i>Favourite</i>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Johannesburg</i> Wine, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">John St. de Maurienne</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>John-William</i>, Elector Palatine, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>John</i> II. King of <i>France</i>, why compar’d to <i>Regulus</i>, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>John</i> III. King of <i>Portugal</i>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Joseph Clement</i>, Elector of <i>Cologne</i>, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Isis</i>, Goddess, and her Temple, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Italians</i>, their revengeful Temper, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Jealousy and Niggardliness, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Disposition towards the <i>French</i> and <i>Germans</i>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Behaviour at Executions, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Hatred to one another, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Formality of settling the Interviews of their petty Princes, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Why they are the Jest of Foreigners, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Who the most polite, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Italians</i>, of the <i>Netherlands</i>, who, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Italy</i>, Devils of, who so called, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Judgement</i>, Day of, a remarkable Painting, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Juliers</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_332">332</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">K</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Keiserswaert</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_347">347</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Keppel</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Kettlers</i> Family, Dukes of <i>Courland</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their Parallel with the <i>Medicis</i> of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--487.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Keys</i> of <i>St. Peter</i>, what they denote, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Kings</i> of <i>Cologne</i>, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Kroon, Theodore</i>, Van der, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">L</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lacqueys</i>, at <i>Paris</i>, the Favourites of their Ladies and young Masters, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>A Conversation between those of two Cardinals, about their Pre-eminence, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Lalaing</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lalock, Nassau</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Landau</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Lanebourg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lansquenet</i>, The <i>French</i> King’s Party at that Game, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lateran</i> Church, the Ceremony of the Pope’s taking Possession of it, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lauzun</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Law, John</i>, the Projector, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>King of <i>Sardinia</i>’s Advice to him, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Death, and his Widow and Son, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>A Copy of Verses on him, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Coat of Arms, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Homage paid to him in his Prosperity, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Description of his Person, and Remarks on his System, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i> to <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Leghorn</span>, <i>t.</i> the grand Appearance there on the Arrival of the <i>Spanish</i> Fleet, in which they expected Don <i>Carlos</i>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Description of the City, <i>&amp;c.</i> <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Leie</i>, Count <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lenoirs</i> Tapistry Manufacture, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Leo</i> III. Pope, his Present to <i>Charlemain</i>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Leopold</i>, Archduke, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lepanto</i>, Victory, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Lerici</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lewis d’Ors</i>, worn in a Lady’s Ears for Pendants, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lewis</i>, the Pious, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Duke of <i>Burgundy</i>, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lewis</i> XIV. his Statue, <i>&amp;c.</i> at <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>At <i>Dijon</i>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Debt, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Offer to <i>Charles</i> II. of Stones for Gravel, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— XVth’s Marriage, 185-211.</dt>
+  <dd>His Character, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Queen and Children, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Lewis</i>, Pr. of <i>Baden</i>, how surpriz’d by M. <i>Villars</i>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Leyden</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— University, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Liberius</i> I. Pope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lichtenstein</i>, Princess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Liege</span>, <i>t.</i> 321 to <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Limburg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Lintz</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Lippe</i>, Count <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Liria</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Lisle</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Livery</i>, Servants at <i>Rome</i>, their poor Wages, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>The Practice of Jubileeing them, what, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Some kept only for Sundays and Holidays, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Lobkowitz</i>, Princess, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Locusts</i>, in <i>Italy</i>, curs’d by the Pope and banish’d to the Sea, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>to the End. King <i>Charles</i> IId’s Menace against this City ridicul’d by one of the Aldermen, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Increase since the Accession of the Present Royal Family to the Crown, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— Prov’d to be more populous than <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>It’s Bridge, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Cathedral, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Monument, Burse, and Tower, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Streets not well pav’d, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Diversions, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Assemblies, <a href="#Page_465">465</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Dances and Plays, 464 to <a href="#Page_467">467</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--488.png--></dt>
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">M</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Macon</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Maestricht</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_319">319</a>, 329</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mailly</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maine</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>Duchess, her Imprisonment, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Degradation, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maintenon</i>, Madame <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Lewis</i> XIVth’s Reprimand of her for leaving him in his last Sickness, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Her Retirement, Death, Tomb and Epitaph, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Her Family and Pension to the last, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— Who is the present Marquis, <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Malines</i>, Lady of, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Malplaquet</i>, Battle, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Malta</i>, Grand Master’s Title, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Ambassador’s Reception by the Pope, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Malusius</i>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maratti, Charles</i>, a Designer, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marble</i>, rich Quarries of it, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mark William, de Lumay</i>, Count <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marcus Aurelius Antonius</i>, his Equestrian Statue, for which the <i>Venetians</i> offer’d as many Sequins as could be put into the Horse’s Belly, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marez</i>, a noted old Actress of <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Margaretta Louisa</i> of <i>Orleans</i>, Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mari</i>, (<i>Spanish</i>) Admiral, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Marienbourg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Mariensteal</span>, <i>t.</i> <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marlborough</i>’s Duke, and Palace, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Marpurg</span>, t. <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marquis de L——</i>, his Fortune made by an old Lady, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Marr</i>, Lady, her meeting Princess <i>Sobleski</i>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mary Magdalen</i> of <i>Austria</i>, Duchess of <i>Tuscany</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>St. Mary Majors</i> Church at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mary de la Rovero</i>, Duchess of <i>Urbino</i>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mary de Medicis</i>, Regent of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Masch</i>, M. <i>de</i>, 404</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Massa di Carrara</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maternus</i>, Bishop, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mathurias</i>, Order of, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Matilda</i>, Countess, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maurepas</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maurice</i>, Prince, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maurice</i>, M. <i>de St.</i> Prime Minister, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maurice</i>, Cardinal of <i>Savoy</i>, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Maximilian</i> II. Emperor, his Answer to <i>Cosmo</i> of <i>Tuscany</i>, when he wanted the Title of King, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mazarine</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mazarine</i>, Duchess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Mechlin</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Medicis</i>, Family of, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Their Parallel with the Family <i>Kettlers</i>, of <i>Courland</i>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Medicis</i>, <i>Ferdinand de</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Bernard de</i>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Juvence de</i>, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Octaviano de</i>, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Mary de</i>, Queen, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Mary-Anne</i>, Electress <i>Palatine</i>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Melun</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Menin</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mentz, Francis Lewis</i>, Elector of, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Philip Charles</i>, Elector, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Mentz</span>, <i>t.</i> ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Francis, Lotharius</i>, Elector, <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Merchants</i>, Difference betwixt the <i>English</i> and Foreigners, <a href="#Page_471">471</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--489.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mercy</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Metternich</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Michael Angelo</i>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mignard</i>, the Painter, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Milan</i>, conquer’d, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Milciades</i>, an <i>Italian</i> Game at Cards, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mirandola, Picus de</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Misset</i>, M. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Missisippi</i> Scheme, and its Projector, Verses thereupon, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>Its Fate compar’d to that of the <i>South-Sea</i> Scheme, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>A curious Account of it, 246 to <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Misson</i>, Mr. his Account of the Pope’s Coronation reflected on, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His being always furnish’d with Mathematical Instruments, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Mistresses</i>, Generosity of the <i>English</i> to theirs, <a href="#Page_469">469</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Kept in Partnership, <i>ib.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Modena</i>, Princes of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Molland</i>, Palace, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mondragone</i> Seat, near <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Money</i>, the Scarcity of it in <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Worship paid to it at <i>Amsterdam</i>, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Mons</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montague</i> House, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montcallier</i> Castle, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Monte Cavallo</i> Palace, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montespan</i>, Marchioness, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montesquiou</i>, Marshal, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Monti</i>, Marquis, the Pretender’s Landlord. <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montijo</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Montpensier</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, her Fame in the Civil Wars of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Restraint from marrying, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Montrevel</i>, Marshal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Monulphus</i>, Bishop of <i>Tongres</i>, his Ghost, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Morville</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mouchi</i>, Madame <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mouths</i> of the Cardinals, the Ceremony of Opening and Shutting them by the Pope, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Muley Ismael</i> of <i>Morocco</i>, his pretended Demand of the Princess of <i>Conti</i> in Marriage, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Mulheim</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Murder</i>, how punish’d at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Mutius Scavola</i>, a Conceit that the <i>English</i> are descended from him, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">N</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Namur</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Naples</i>, the Tribute paid for it to the See of <i>Rome</i>, 43 to <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nassau</i>, Princes of, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Zeist</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Orange</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Navona</i>, Square, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>The Ceremony of watering it, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Neautre</i>, M. <i>le</i>, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nectarius</i>, Patriarch, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nephews</i> of the Popes, their general Character, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nesle</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Netherlands, Austrian</i>, Pride and Poverty of the Nobility and Gentry, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Newbourgh, Lewis-Antony de</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Francis</i>, Elector of <i>Mentz</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Neuhoff Theodore</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, proclaim’d K. of <i>Corsica</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Neville Camillus, Nicolas</i> and <i>Charles</i>, <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Neuwidt</span>, <i>t.</i> and Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Newcastle</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Newmarket</i> Races, <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Newport</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Nimeguen</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_365">365</a>, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Noailles, Lewis-Antony</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--490.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Noailles, Maria Victoria de</i>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Duchess <i>d’Estrées</i>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nocera</i>, a Canon, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nordkirchen</i>, Seat, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Norfolk</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nostradamus</i>, a Prophecy of his apply’d to <i>Don Carlos</i>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nothast</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Novalaise</span>, <i>la</i>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques</i>, prohibited by the Archbishops of <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Differences about it, betwixt the Court and Parliament, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Nuncios</i>, of the Pope, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">O</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Obdam</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Odyck</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Oels</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Olivieri</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Openord, Giles Maria</i>, Architect, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Operas</i>, in <i>France</i>, the Distinction paid to the Actors, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Orange</i>, Palace in <i>Brussels</i>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>. at the Hague, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Princes of, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Orbano</i>, R. <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Orleans</i>, Dukes of, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Duchess, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Dowager, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</dd>
+  <dd><i>Henrietta</i>, Duchess of, her Death, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Sisters, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dd>
+  <dd><i>Philippa</i>, her Death, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dd>
+  <dd><i>Louisa Diana</i>, her Marriage and Issue, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Orleans</span>, <i>t.</i> taken, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">P</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pagan</i> Impertinences, reviv’d in the Christian Religion, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pain</i>, despis’d by our Nation, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Palatine</i>, Electress Dowager, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>John-William</i>, Elector, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Pallas</i>, a <i>French</i> Officer, who married both Mother and Daughter, acquitted by the Inquisition, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Palmquist</i>, Ambassador, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pamphili</i>, Princes, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Palace, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Camillus</i>, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pantheon</i>, at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Paris</i>, Abbé, his pretended Miracles, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i> <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Paris</i>, Brothers, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>Whether most populous, this City, or <i>London</i>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Number of its People, Streets, Houses, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Expence of its Lanthorns, and its Revenues, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Archbishop’s Title, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>By whom founded, and most beautify’d, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Prerogatives, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Governor, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Lacqueys, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Parliaments, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>What <i>Charles</i> V. meant when he said, He could put this City into his Glove, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Parliament House, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Parma</i>, Dukes of, the Office they are to perform for the Pope, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>The Pope’s Concern for the Loss of the Duchy, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Patricians</i>, of <i>Germany</i>, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Paul</i> III. Pope, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Order about the Cardinals Caps, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Establishment of the Inquisition, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt>—— IV. Pope, the Solicitor of it, <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt>—— V. Pope, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Peasants, English</i>, their Happiness, <a href="#Page_471">471</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pericon</i>, M. Magistrate at <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--491.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Perauss</i>, Count <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Peter, St. d’Arena</i> Suburbs of <i>Genoa</i>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Peter, St.</i> why describ’d as holding three Keys, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Church and Chair, at <i>Rome</i>, 7 to <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Who buried in it, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Miracles, what, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Petitbourg</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Petits Colets</i>, the Petits Maitres of <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Petronilla</i>, St. <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Peyrome</i>, <i>la</i>, Surgeon, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Phaethon</i>’s, Story finely painted, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pharao</i>, plaid in the Conclave of Cardinals, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Philibert</i>, Prince of <i>Piedmont</i>, his submissive Speech to <i>Phillip</i> IV. King of <i>Spain</i>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Philips</i>, Mr. Preceptor to the Duke, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Philipsburg</i>, Siege of, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Picus, de Mirandola</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Piedmontese</i>, their Court and Character, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Pietra Santa</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pignatelli</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pilate</i>, whither banish’d, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pilgrims</i>, Hospital at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pin, Joseph</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Pisa</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Pride of the People, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Pius</i> V. Pope, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pizzighitone</i>, taken, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Platen</i>, Count <i>de</i>, Post-master of <i>Hanover</i>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Daughter’s Marriage and Pension from King <i>George</i> I. and II. <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Plettenburg</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Polignac</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Pont de Bonvoisin</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pontchartrain</i>, M. <i>de</i>, Chancellor, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ponthievre</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Popelsdorf</i>, Village, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Popes</i>, the Days on which the Cardinals kiss their Feet, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Character of their Nephews, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Reception of Ambassadors, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Pope</i>, who was the first that was crown’d, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Compar’d to the Holy Sepulchre, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Portail</i>, M. <i>de</i>, President, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Portland</i>, Earl of, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Portugal</i>, <i>Henry</i>, Cardinal of, his Resignation of the Hat, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its broils with the Court of <i>Rome</i>, 116 to <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Poultier</i>, M. Intendant at <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>P——y, William</i>, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Poyntz, Stephen</i>, Esq, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pragmatic Sanction</i>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Prebends</i>, bought and sold, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Precedence</i>, Disputes about it betwixt Ambassadors, 400 to <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pretender</i>, his Pension and Honours from the Pope, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Landlord, Courtiers, and Domestics, Style, and Stature, and his Sons, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Treatment from the Imperial and <i>French</i> Cardinals, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Aspect and Character, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Mistress, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>His Protestant Chapel, and Table, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>His Wife, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Prophecy of his coming to the <i>British</i> Throne, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Preys</i>, M. <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Prie</i>, Marchioness, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Priests</i>, <i>Italian</i>, a heavy Charge against them, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Flemish</i>, always railing at one another, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Printing</i>, where invented, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Procession</i> Chair, of the Popes, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Prussia</i>, <i>Ducal</i> or <i>Brandenburg</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Fredric</i>, K. of, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Pucelage</i>, its Meaning, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pucelle</i>, a Counsellor, banish’d from the Parliament at <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--492.png-->  Verses on his Exile, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pussenburg</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Puppet-player</i>, burnt for a Conjurer, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Purpora</i>, the Singer, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Pyrrhus</i>’s Saying, after he had defeated the <i>Romans</i>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">Q</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Q——y</i>, Duke of, his Behaviour on the Duchess’s being forbid the Court, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Quieri</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Quinaut</i>, the famous Comedian, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">R</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rabutyn</i>, <i>Bussy</i>’s, Letters, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Raby</i>, Lord, his Amour, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Race</i>, run round St. <i>James</i>’s Park, by a naked Man, <a href="#Page_470">470</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ramillies</i>, Battle, to what the <i>French</i> ascribe the Loss of it, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Raphael</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rastadt</i>, Treaty, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ratisbon</i>, <i>Theodore</i>, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rats</i>, Tower in the <i>Rhine</i>, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ratto</i>, Signior, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Bishop of <i>Cordoua</i>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Regulas, John</i> II. K. of <i>France</i> compar’d to him, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Reimbrants</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Reliques</i>, at <i>Aix</i>, the Time and Manner of exposing them, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Remi</i>, (S.) a noted Better at the <i>French</i> Court, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Restitution</i>, by the Popes, what, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Retirement</i>, Verses in Praise of it, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Retz</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rhebinder</i>, Marshal, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Rheims</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Rhen</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rhenish</i> Wine, where the best, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Rhinbeck</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rhine</i>, R. <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rhinfields</i> Castle, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Richardi</i>, Marquis, and his Son Don <i>Vincenzo</i>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Richelieu</i>, Cardinal’s Ingratitude to Q. <i>Mary de Medicis</i>, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Richmond</i>, Duchess, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ridelsheim</i>, Wine, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rinuccini</i>, Marquis, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ripperda</i>, Duke <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rivoli</i> Castle, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Robbery</i>, on the Highway, remarkable, <a href="#Page_457">457</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Robert</i>, (the Pious) K. of <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rochebonne</i>, M. Archbishop of <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Roche, Sur-yon</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de la</i>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rodolph</i> I. Emperor, a miraculous Appearance at his Coronation, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Roer</i>, River, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rohan</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Prince, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Roll</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rolling</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Romain, Julius</i> Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Roman</i> Princes, their high Pretensions, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Princesses and Popes Nieces more humble than formerly, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>How they are lighted to the Plays, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their unwieldy Coaches, and scrub Liveries, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Why they never wear Mourning, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Rome</span>, <i>t.</i> Manners of the People, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its Squares, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Churches, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Palaces, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i> <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Theatres, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Diversions and Repasts, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Our Author’s Dislike of this City, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Why young Gentlemen ought to visit it, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--493.png-->  Its Hospitals, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Consistories, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>The Time when all Ceremonies are laid aside, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Funerals, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Mourning, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Fireworks, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Governor, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Senator, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Executions, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Their Hatred of other <i>Italians</i>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Rota</i>, Tribunal of, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rotonda</i> Church, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Rotterdam</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rubempré</i>, Prince and Princess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rubens</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ruhi</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ruspanti</i>, Pensioners, why so call’d, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ruspoli</i>, Signior, his Promotion to be a Cardinal, 77 to <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Prince’s, Funeral, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Rysnic</i>, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">S</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sacrament</i>, Holy, the Grandeur and Solemnity of the Pope’s Procession with it, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, and of the Parish of <i>St. Sulpice</i> in <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Saltzu, Herman de</i>, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Salviati</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Santa Croce</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Santen</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Santini</i>, Marquis, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Santa-Buona</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sardam</i>, Village, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sardini</i>, Prelate, his Imprisonment, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sardinia</i>, K. the Pope’s Grant to him, <i>ibid.</i></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sardinia, Victor Amedeus</i> late K. of, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 156 to <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Son’s Duty to him, 157 to <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Sarno</i>, Duke of, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Sarzana</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sastago</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Savoy</i>, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Palace in the <i>Strand</i>, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Savoy</i>, Princes of, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Savoyards</i>, Character, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Saurin</i>, M. <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Saxony</i>, <i>John George</i> IV. Elector of, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Scaliger</i>’s Character of <i>Lyons</i>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Scarlet</i>, why the Cardinals Robes and Caps are of that Colour, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Scarron, Paul</i>, the Poet, who was Madame <i>de Maintenon</i>’s Husband, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Schasberg</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Scheld</i> River, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Scheveling</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Schlangenbadt</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Schourff</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Schouts</i>, <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Schwalbach</span>, <i>t.</i> and Waters, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Schwartzo</i>, a <i>Jew</i>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sculpture</i>, not the best in <i>London</i>, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Seaux</i>, the Duke of <i>Maine</i>’s Seat, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Schonborn</i>, Countess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Francis-George</i>, Count <i>de</i>, Bishop of <i>Triers</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Bishops of <i>Spires</i>, and <i>Bamberg</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sebastian, St.</i> Marchioness <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i> <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— K. of <i>Portugal</i>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>St.</i> t. taken, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Seignelay</i>, Marquis of, his Bombardment of <i>Genoa</i>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Senator</i>, of <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Seneca</i>’s Statue, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Senesino</i>, the Singer, <a href="#Page_466">466</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Senez</i>, Bishop of, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Sens</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Sersara</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Servants</i>, the Custom of treating ’em in <i>England</i>, ridiculed, <a href="#Page_465">465</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Sestri</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ships</i>, the Difference betwixt the <i>English</i> and <i>Spaniards</i>, and those of three Decks, and two, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--494.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sinzendorf</i>, Count, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Countess, her Conversion to Popery by a Flash of Lightning, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sixtus</i> IV. his Power as to Hell and Purgatory, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— V. Pope, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Skates, Dutch</i>, describ’d, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Slingeland</i>, the (late) Grand Pensionary of <i>Holland</i>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Smith, Richard</i>, Bookbinder, and his Wife, their tragical Catastrophe, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>Their Apology for killing themselves and their Child, and the Confession of their Faith, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Snow</i>, in <i>August</i>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sobieski</i>, Prince and Princess. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Arrest, as she went to be marry’d to the Pretender, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Her Escape, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Her Reception at <i>Rome</i> by Lady <i>Marr</i>, &amp;c. and the Cardinals, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Her Death, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Sodomite</i>, the pert Answer of one to a Cardinal, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Soissons</i>, Congress, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Solare</i>, Chevalier <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Spa</span>, <i>t.</i> and Waters, <a href="#Page_325">325</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Great Resort to it, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Spain</i>, Q. Dowager of <i>Lewis</i> I. her Marriage, and her silent Visit from <i>Lewis</i> XV. <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Retirement to a Convent. <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Spaniards</i> Arrival at <i>Leghorn</i>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Comparison between their Officers and Ships, and the <i>English</i>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Sparr</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Speik</i>, Madame <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Spigo</i>, Marquisate, and Marchioness, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Spinola, John Baptist</i>, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Spork</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Stadthouse</i>, at <i>Amsterdam</i>, 377 to <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Stage</i> Players, the extravagant Respect paid to ’em in <i>France</i>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+  <dd>A Joke put upon them by President <i>Harlai</i>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Stampa</i>, General, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Stein</i>, Baron, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Stilletto</i>, the frequent Use of it at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Stoves, Dutch</i>, describ’d, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Strafford</i>, Earl of, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His prophetical Conversation with the D. of <i>Ormond</i>, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Strappa Corda</i>, what, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Strickland</i>, Bishop, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Strozzi</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Suarez</i>, Madame, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sudarini</i>, Marquis, his Present of a fine Coach to his Daughter-in-law, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Sulpice, St.</i> the Parson’s, Lottery, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Parsonage a fat one, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Seminary, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Surnames</i>, the Moderns blamed for not giving them to their Heroes as well as the Ancients, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Susa</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">T</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tallard</i>, Duchess, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tancin</i>, Archbishop of <i>Ambrun</i>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tapistry</i> Manufactures, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Targa</i>, Bp. Cardinal <i>Coscia</i>’s Brother, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tavannes</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Taverns, English</i>, better than the <i>French</i>, <a href="#Page_465">465</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tenebra</i>, a fine Piece of Music, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Terrasson</i>, Abbé, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Teutonic</i> Order, Masters of it, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Texeria</i>, a <i>Jew</i>, <a href="#Page_411">411</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Thames</i> River, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Theatres</i> at <i>Paris</i>, better open’d than shut, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Theodore</i>, Baron <i>de Neuhoff</i>, proclaim’d K. of <i>Corsica</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--495.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tholouse</i>, Count <i>de</i>, and Countess, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her Sister, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Thou</i>, M. <i>de</i>, Ambassador, his Dispute with a <i>Spaniard</i> about Precedency, <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tingry</i>, Prince <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tintoret</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Tirlemont</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Titian</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Titus</i>’s Arch at <i>Rome</i>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Tongres</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Torcy</i>, M. <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tour</i> and <i>Taxis</i>, Prince and Princess, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Mother and Children, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Tour, Humbert de la</i>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Touraine, la</i>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tranquillity</i>, Christian, a Poem, on the Disputes of the Times, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Treaties</i> of Peace, three concluded successively in the Dominions of the <i>Dutch</i>, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tremouille</i>, Cardinal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Trevoux</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Triers, Francis-George</i>, Count <i>de Schonborn</i>, the present Bishop, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Triple Crown</i>, by what Pope first worn, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Trotti</i>, Marquis <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tuilleries</i>, in <i>France</i>, Garden, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tulip-Root</i>, of great Value, <a href="#Page_395">395</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Turin</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Its University, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>Its Siege, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Tuscans</i>, the great Hopes they entertained of <i>Don Carlos</i>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tuscany</i>’s Great Duke, his Manner of giving Audience in Bed, with his Lap-Dogs, and his hearty Reception of our Author, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Indolence in his Bed-chamber, and Deshabille, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Kindness to Pilgrims, and Fondness for the <i>Germans</i>, ibid.</dd>
+  <dd>His Pensioners and Paymaster, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>Who influenced him to recognise Don <i>Carlos</i> for his Successor, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Twicked, Wassenaer de</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Tyburn</i> Executions, <a href="#Page_458">458</a>, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">V</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vahal</i>, River, <a href="#Page_365">365</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Val de Grace Church</i>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Valenciennes</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Valere</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Valois, Philip de</i>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vander Borg</i>’s Tapistry, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vander Duin</i>, Messieurs, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vandyke</i>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Varengeville, Joanna de</i>, Wife of the Marshal <i>Villars</i>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vatican</i> Palace, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Library, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vauhan</i>, M. Engineer, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vayrac</i>, Abbé, the Author, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His pleasant Rencounter with a pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Plagiarism, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Vendosme</i>, Duke de, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>. Why he has not left his Fellow, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Venerie Castle</i>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Venice</i> and <i>Amsterdam</i> compar’d, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ventadour</i>, Duke and Duchess <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vermillon</i>’s Tapistry, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Veronese, Paul</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Versailles</i> Park, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vespasian</i>’s Amphitheatre, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Uhlefeldt</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Uhlefeldt</i>, Mademoiselle <i>de</i>, her unhappy Fate in the Fire at <i>Brussels</i>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Viareggio</span> Forest and Village, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Victor</i>, King of <i>Sardinia</i>, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 155 to <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Advice to the famous <i>John Law</i>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Treaty with <i>France</i> and <i>Spain</i>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><!--496.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vienna</i> Treaty, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Vienne</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Villars</i>, Marshal de, <i>Francis Hector</i>, 250 to <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Our Author’s smart Answer to him, when he boasted of his Clemency at <i>Denain</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Invention of a Surname for the Marshal, which put him in good Humour, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Creation as Marshal of <i>France</i>, <i>ib.</i></dd>
+  <dd>His Conduct in the <i>Cevennois</i> and in <i>Flanders</i>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Preferment to the Government of <i>Provence</i>, and his Compliment to the Memory of his deceased Predecessor, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His remarkable Expressions to the <i>French</i> King, when he went to the Command in <i>Germany</i>, and when he had purchas’d an Estate, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>His Command, Sickness and Death, in <i>Italy</i>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His Family and Character, <i>ibid.</i> <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His nimble Trip from a Ball to a Battle, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>A Sonnet made on him when he set out last for <i>Italy</i>, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+  <dd>His Scruple to accept of a Commission to act against the King of <i>Spain</i>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Villeroy</i>, M. <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>The Family, <i>ibid.</i> <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Vinci, Leonard</i>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vintimille</i>, N. N. Archbishop of <i>Paris</i>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>His Concern for the Goodness of his Mutton, greater than for that of the Pasture of his Sheep, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</dd>
+  <dd>His equal Respect to different Orders, and an Epigram upon his Mandate, in favour of the <i>Constitution Unigenitus</i>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Viol</i>, holy, at <i>St. Rheims</i>, the Story of it, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Visconti</i>, Count <i>de</i>, and Countess, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vitriarius</i>, Professor, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Voisin</i>, M. Secretary at War, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Voltaire</i>, the Poet, his Tragedy of <i>Brutus</i> admir’d, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Criticis’d, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_467">467</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Urban</i> V. Pope, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Urban</i> VIII. Pope, his Order about the Cardinals Title, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Vrilliere</i>, M. Secretary of State, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Madame <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ursini</i>, Cardinal, his Election to be Pope, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Ushers</i> of the Pope, their Privilege, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Utrecht</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_367">367</a>, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>, <i>&amp;c.</i></dt>
+
+<dt>—— its Walls resembling those of Jericho, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.</dt>
+  <dd><i>Lewis</i> XIV. afraid of its Cellars, <i>ibid.</i></dd>
+
+<dt><i>Uxelles</i>, Marshal de, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">W</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wager</i>, Admiral’s Arrival at <i>Leghorn</i>, whither he convoy’d the <i>Spaniards</i>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Waldeck</i>, Prince, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wales</i>, <i>Frederic</i>, Pr. of, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wallingford</i>, Ld. his Marriage, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Walpole</i>, Sir <i>Robert</i>, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Walpol</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Walrave</i>, Colonel, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wartemberg</i>, Countess de, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.</dt>
+  <dd>Her innumerable Adventures of Gallantry, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>.</dd>
+
+<dt><i>Wassenaars</i>, of <i>Holland</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Water-works</i>, finer than those of <i>St. Cloud</i>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Watteville</i>, Mademoiselle de, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Welderen</i>, Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Werf, Vander</i>, a Painter, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Wesel</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Westminster</i> Abbey and Palace, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wetzler</i> Chamber, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><!--497.png--></dt>
+
+<dt><i>Whitehall</i>, Palace, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Whitworth</i>, Lady, her smart Rebuke of Cardinal <i>Corsini</i>, for pretending to meddle with Houshold Affairs at <i>Cambray</i> Congress, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>William</i> l. Pr. of <i>Orange</i>’s Assassination, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>William</i> III. Prince of <i>Orange</i>’s Dispute for Precedency with the Count <i>d’Estrades</i>, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Disputes adjusted relating to his Succession, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Charles-Henry</i>, Prince of, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Windmills</i> of <i>Holland</i>, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Windsor</i> Palace, by whom built, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wirtemberg</i>, <i>Lewis</i>, Pr. of, his, saying to the <i>Genoese</i>, about <i>Corsica</i>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— <i>Alexander</i>, Pr. of, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wogan</i>, Mr. in the Pretender’s Service, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wolffgang de Neubourgh</i>, Duke, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wolsey</i>, Cardinal <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Women</i> Lying-in, a Protection to their Husbands, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Worms</i>, fatal to the Dykes of <i>Holland</i>, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wrangel</i>, Marshal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wurmbrand</i>, Count <i>de</i>, ibid.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wuytiers Barkman</i>, Bp. of <i>Utrecht</i>, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Wynendale</i> Battle, to what the <i>French</i> ascribe the Loss of it, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt class="indexsubhdr">Z</dt>
+
+<dt><span class="smcap">Zeist</span>, <i>t.</i> <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt>—— Count <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Zuchro</i>, Painter, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</dt>
+
+<dt><i>Zumjungen</i>, Marshal <i>de</i>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</dt></dl>
+
+<div class="center"><i>FINIS.</i></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+His Eminency died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, after
+which, Signior <i>Thomas Ratto</i>, and <i>Ottinelli</i>, heretofore Auditor of the
+<i>Rota</i>, and now Bishop of <i>Cordoua</i>, had the Care of the <i>Spanish</i>
+Affairs, in which he was succeeded by Cardinal <i>Acquaviva</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
+Now Pope <i>Clement</i> XII. whose Nephews and Nieces dwell in
+it.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>
+The last Hackney that was presented on the Part of the House
+of <i>Austria</i>, was deliver’d by the Prince of <i>Santa Croce</i>, whom the
+Emperor appointed for that Ceremony, because <i>Spain</i> having conquer’d the
+Kingdom of <i>Naples</i>, the Constable was not willing to concern himself in
+the Affair, before it was finally decided. This was in the Year 1734.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>
+He is now a Cardinal and Archbishop of <i>Benevento</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>
+This Princess, who was born <i>July</i> 6. 1702. O. S. died <i>Jan.</i>
+7. 1735.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>
+As the Baron above three Years since durst not venture much
+Money on the fulfilling of this Prophecy, we may now say it is not worth a
+Farthing.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>
+His Eminency is return’d to <i>France</i>, and succeeded in his
+Embassy by the Duke of <i>St. Aignan</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>
+The Death of this Cardinal has been already mention’d. His
+Successor is M. <i>Ratto</i>, Bishop of <i>Cordoua</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>
+<i>Henry</i> was Son to King <i>Emanuel</i>, and <i>Sebastian</i> was
+Grandson of <i>John</i> III. Brother to the Cardinal <i>Henry</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>
+He did it however in the Year 1733.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>
+Since these Letters were wrote, he is actually return’d, and
+hitherto he is come but poorly off. Tho’ his Fate be not yet intirely
+determin’d, ’tis certain that he will not be degraded. A Sentence has been
+pass’d upon him, and ratify’d, whereby he is declar’d excommunicate, and
+out of a Possibility of being absolv’d, but by the Pope, even <i>in articulo
+mortis</i>; he is also to be confin’d in a Fortress, depriv’d of the Power of
+Speaking or Voting, <i>&amp;c.</i> But as <i>omnia venalia Roma</i>, even more now than
+in <i>Jugurtha</i>’s Time, the Cardinal <i>del Gindici</i>, who is a Friend of his
+Eminency <i>Coscia</i>, gave him to understand, that the Pope was resolv’d to
+treat him as a Grand <i>Vizier</i> in Disgrace; that he must absolutely refund,
+and that all his Sins shou’d be blotted out. Consequently his Eminency
+submitted to implore his Holiness’s Clemency, on Condition of paying well
+for it; and in fine, his Pardon has been tax’d at thirty thousand Ducats.
+He has clamour’d against it not a little; but the Holy Father wou’d not
+abate an Ace of it, and the Cardinal was forc’d to acquiesce; however, as
+he always watches for the Death of the Pope, he desir’d to pay it at
+several Terms; and upon depositing ten thousand Crowns down, he
+immediately receiv’d Absolution, his Guards were taken off, and he had
+Liberty granted him to walk about in the Castle of <i>St. Angelo</i>, and to
+converse there with his Brother the Bishop of <i>Targa</i>. He pleads Poverty,
+and shuffles off his Payments from one time to another, in constant
+Expectation that the Gout will rise into the Pope’s Stomach, and take him
+out of his Way. At length, in 1734, he paid down ten thousand Crowns more.
+But a Collector of Taxes, from whom he formerly receiv’d a great Present
+to procure him an Acquittance from the Chamber, to which he ow’d seventy
+thousand Crowns, died lately insolvent, and without making good the Fraud;
+and as <i>Cæsar</i>, they say, <i>loses nothing</i>, the Chamber comes upon Cardinal
+<i>Coscia</i>, who is condemn’d to pay this Deficiency too, and the Pope won’t
+hear any Talk of compounding it.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>
+He Afterwards created him a Cardinal; but he died at
+<i>Benevento</i> in 1733. Nobody after his Death wou’d accept of this Benefice,
+till the Pope gave it to the Abbat <i>Conti</i>, a <i>Roman</i>, who only took it
+upon Condition that his Holiness wou’d give him a red Hat to boot; which
+he did accordingly, at the last Promotion of Cardinals.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>
+It was publish’d in the News-papers of 1732, that this
+Gentleman was sentenc’d to be beheaded, but that his Holiness had commuted
+that Sentence to ten Years Imprisonment. It was afterwards said in the
+public News, that the Pope had shorten’d it, first, to seven Years, and
+then to three Years Imprisonment. At length the Pope was for removing him
+to <i>Perousa</i>, or elsewhere; but the Prelate wou’d not go, and said, If he
+cou’d not have his intire Liberty, he wou’d live and die in the Castle of
+<i>St. Angelo</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>
+The Origin of this Ceremony, if we may believe Father
+<i>Sirmond</i> and <i>Ciccarelli</i>, was this: It comes from a Custom they had at
+<i>Rome</i>, of distributing to the People upon every <i>Whitsunday</i> the
+Remainder of the Paschal Wax-taper, which was consecrated on <i>Holy
+Saturday</i>. The Vulgar, who are always superstitious, appropriated several
+Virtues to this consecrated Wax, particularly that ’twas a Preservative
+against the Delusions of the Devil, and the Injuries of Lightning, <i>&amp;c.</i>
+and they us’d to burn little Pieces of this Wax in their Houses. There
+being not enough left of the Paschal Wax-taper to satisfy the Cravings of
+the People, the Archdeacon took it into his Head to take some other Wax,
+which he sprinkled with Oil, bless’d it, and made little Bits of it in the
+Form of a Lamb, and then distributed them to the People. Afterwards they
+only flatted those Pieces of Wax, and impress’d ’em with the Stamp of a
+Lamb bearing the Standard of the Cross. They believe that none but such as
+are in Orders have the Power to touch them, and they are cover’d neatly
+with embroider’d Stuff to be given to the Laity. There is nothing by which
+the Monks more successfully impose upon the Credulous; for to such they
+distribute <i>Agnus Dei</i>’s that were never on t’other Side of the <i>Alps</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>
+He is the Pope’s Vicechamberlain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>
+When he was at the Congress at <i>Cambray</i>, he had a Fancy to
+regulate every Plenipotentiary’s Houshold; and indeed, that was all he did
+there. One Day he took it into his Head to give his Œconomical Rules at my
+Lord <i>Whitworth</i>’s, but he did not find my Lady very compliant; for, said
+she, M. <i>le Marquis, We make use of the <span class="f">Italians</span> to regulate our <span class="f">Concerts</span>;
+but as for the Table, pray give us leave to consult the <span class="f">French</span>.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>
+Cardinal <i>Grimani</i> succeeded Cardinal <i>Bentivoglio</i> in the
+Legateship of <i>Bologna</i>, as soon as the present Pope had created him a
+Cardinal; but he died in the Legateship, and his Holiness conferr’d it
+upon <i>John Baptist Spinola</i>, whom he had just before advanc’d to the
+Purple.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>
+Nevertheless there is a Difference between these two
+Families: The Duke <i>Ferdinand</i> the last Survivor of that of <i>Kettler</i>, but
+of the Family of <i>Medicis</i> there are Princes still living, who have an
+incontestable Right to the Succession; for ’tis certain, that <i>Bernard de
+Medicis</i>, the eldest Brother of Pope <i>Leo</i> XI. descended from <i>Juvenco de
+Medicis</i>, Brother of <i>Sylvester Clarissimus</i>, the Head of the present
+reigning Branch, which <i>Bernard de Medicis</i> was the Son of <i>Ottaviano</i>,
+the last Standard-bearer of <i>Florence</i> in 1528. This <i>Bernard</i> purchas’d
+the Barony of <i>Ottajano</i> near Mount <i>Vesuvius</i> in the Kingdom of <i>Naples</i>,
+to which he transferr’d this Branch of the <i>Medicis</i>; and the present
+Prince of <i>Ottajano</i>, and Duke of <i>Sarno</i>, who married <i>Theresa</i>, Daughter
+of <i>Charles</i> Prince of <i>Acquaviva</i>, is his Great Great Grandson.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>
+The Count <i>de Charni</i> signs N. <i>d’Orleans C. de Charni</i>. He
+is a Bastard of the <i>Orleans</i> Family, but by whom is not known. He has
+advanc’d himself at the Court of <i>Spain</i>, and is now Commandant of
+<i>Naples</i>, and Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>
+This Prince went thro’ <i>France</i>, and arriv’d at <i>Florence</i>
+the Beginning of the Year 1732.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>
+This young Prince died in 1734, as his illustrious Uncle did
+in the Year following.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a>
+The <i>Spaniards</i> took it at the Beginning of the War, and
+’twas the first of their Exploits.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a>
+<i>Giafferi</i> did all he could; but was obliged to submit to
+Force, the Republic being assisted by the Troops which the Emperor had
+assembled in <i>Lombardy</i>, to oppose the Enterprizes he was then
+apprehensive of from the <i>Spaniards</i>. <i>Giafferi</i> was arrested, but by a
+great deal of Art and Cunning he obtain’d his Freedom, after the <i>Genoese</i>
+thought the <i>Corsicans</i> were disarmed, destitute of Leaders, and reduced
+to a Sense of their Duty; and he retired to <i>Tuscany</i>. But the <i>Corsicans</i>
+being no better treated than they were before their Accommodation, took up
+Arms again, upon which <i>Giafferi</i> procured them all manner of Assistance,
+and actually returned to that Island, and put himself at the Head of the
+Malecontents, who seemed to have a fair Chance of regaining their
+Liberties. They were so uppish in Expectation of foreign Assistance, that
+they rejected some new Concessions made to them by the <i>Genoese</i>, in
+<i>Dec, 1734</i>, declar’d <i>Aitelli</i> General of the Forces, and one <i>Costa</i>, a
+Man of great Intrigues, General-Auditor of the Island; and, at the same
+time, made Proposals to the King of <i>Spain</i> to take them under his
+Protection, having renounced all Subjection to the Republic of <i>Genoa</i>,
+declar’d themselves a free and independent People, and resolv’d to defend
+their Liberties to the last Man. At length they receiv’d some Recruits of
+Money and Ammunition by one <i>Theodore</i>, who call’d himself the Baron <i>de
+Neuhoff</i>, and arriv’d in <i>March</i> 1736. on Board an <i>English</i> Ship from
+<i>Tunis</i>; but in the Name of what Power he acted, is as yet a Mystery. He
+had the Success to be proclaim’d King of <i>Corsica</i>, and Copper Money was
+coin’d there with his Effigies; but he has since been obliged to abandon
+the Island; and the <i>French</i> have taken upon them to accommodate Matters
+between the <i>Genoese</i> and <i>Corsicans</i>. It must be left to Time, to shew
+whether the <i>Genoese</i> will have Reason to be pleased with this formidable
+Mediation. After all, that Republic has too much Cause to remember the
+Saying of Prince <i>Lewis</i> of <i>Wirtemberg</i>, who, when he return’d with the
+Imperial Troops from suppressing the former Rebellion, told them, That the
+Island was not worth the Expences which the Republic had been at in
+reducing the <i>Corsicans</i>, and what they must be at continually to keep
+them in Subjection.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a>
+The Prince had a Kindness for Mademoiselle <i>de Cumiane</i>,
+before she was married to the Count <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, when she was Maid
+of Honour to Madame Royale. She was afterwards a Lady of Honour to the
+Duchess of <i>Savoy</i>, and at last Tire-Woman to the Princess of <i>Piedmont</i>,
+late Queen of <i>Sardinia</i>. She has been a Widow since 1723. After she was
+married to the Count <i>de St. Sebastian</i>, she still preserv’d the King’s
+Friendship and Esteem, and was always in great Credit with him. When she
+became a Widow, the old Flames of Love broke out again; the King gave her
+an Apartment at Court, where he cou’d see her without being seen, and he
+took Care of her Family.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a>
+’Tis said, that the real Motive of this Abdication was his
+Perplexity on Account of the Succession of <i>Parma</i> and <i>Tuscany</i>, and the
+Introduction of the Infante <i>Don Carlos</i> into <i>Italy</i>. They say he had
+enter’d into Engagements relating to this Affair, first with the Court of
+<i>Vienna</i>, and afterwards with <i>Spain</i>; and it not being possible for him
+to satisfy either of those Courts without exposing himself to the
+Resentment of the other, he resolved to abdicate, at least for a Time,
+because he knew of no other Way to extricate himself from the Dilemma.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>
+The Abdication was performed the 3d of <i>September</i>, in the
+Castle of <i>Rivoli</i>. The declar’d Motives, were the Fatigues of a Reign of
+fifty Years, the Infirmities of old Age, and the Necessity of some
+Interval of Retirement, between a Throne and a Tomb.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>
+The King was not marry’d to the Countess of <i>St. Sebastian</i>,
+till he came to <i>Chamberry</i>, where she met him; for he set out from
+<i>Turin</i> without her. When he marry’d her, he gave her one hundred thousand
+Crowns, with which she purchased the Marquisate of <i>Spigo</i> for her
+Children, and then exchang’d her Title of Countess of <i>St. Sebastian</i> for
+that of Marchioness of <i>Spigo</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>
+<i>Victor Amedeus</i> took it into his Head to reascend the
+Throne, as soon as he heard of the Conclusion of the Treaty of <i>Vienna</i>,
+by which the Emperor consented to the Introduction of the <i>Spaniards</i>. He
+then let the Marchioness <i>del Spigo</i> into the true Motives of his
+Abdication, and into the Measures he intended to take for reascending the
+Throne. This ambitious Woman encourag’d him, and being withal a very
+cunning intriguing Person, she left no Stone unturn’d to bring a Project
+to bear, which would set her on the Throne; and she engag’d all her
+Friends and Relations in the Affair, of whom some betray’d her.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>
+These Proofs were his sending for the Marquis <i>del Borgo</i> to
+<i>Montcallier</i>, demanding the Instrument of Abdication from him, giving him
+but twelve Hours time to fetch it, and his appearing before the Citadel of
+<i>Turin</i>, with a View of getting into it, and of animating the Garison to
+assist him in his Enterprise.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>
+These were all Privy Counsellors and Great Men, who being
+assembled by Order of the King, and consulted on the imminent Danger of
+his being dethron’d were all of Opinion for putting <i>Victor Amedeus</i> and
+his Consort under an Arrest.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>
+He died <i>Oct.</i> 31. 1732.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>
+She died <i>Jan.</i> 13. 1735. and his Majesty has since married
+Sister of the present Great Duke of <i>Tuscany</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>
+There is now but one Prince, the youngest being dead; but
+there are three Princesses.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a>
+This is the Cardinal <i>Ferrera</i>, Bishop of <i>Verceil</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a>
+This wou’d be very extraordinary, as Mr. <i>Addison</i> observes,
+were it not for other neighbouring Mountains that rise above it.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a>
+This shews another Mistake of <i>Misson</i>, who says this Side
+is the most rugged.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a>
+The <i>French</i> are not the only People who boast of the
+Grandeur and other Advantages of <i>Lyons</i>, as appears from this Epigram by
+<i>Scaliger</i>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Flumineis Rhodanus qua se fugat incitus undis,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Quaque pigro dubitat flumine mitis Arar,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus orbis in orbe,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Lugdunumque vetus orbis in orbe novo.</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Quod nolis, alibi quaras; hic quare quod optas:</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Aut hic, aut nusquam, vincre vota potes.</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Lugduni quodcunque potest dare mundus habebis:</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Plura petas, hac urbs &amp; tibi plura dabit.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">i. e.</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Where <span class="f">Rhone</span> impetuous rolls, and where the slow</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>And gentle <span class="f">Sâon</span> with milder Streams does flow,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>There <span class="f">Lyons</span> stands; where we united find,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>What scatter’d thro’ the World delights the Mind;</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>And if you still seek more with greedy eye,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i><span class="f">Lyons</span> can ev’n more Wonders still supply.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a>
+Her Amours with M. <i>de Lauzun</i> have made a great Noise.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a>
+This Misfortune came upon the Duke and Duchess of <i>Maine</i>,
+merely from a Suspicion which the Regent entertain’d, that the Duke had a
+Hand in the pretended Conspiracy of the Prince of <i>Cellamare</i>, the
+Ambassador of <i>Spain</i>; which, they said, was to remove the Duke of
+<i>Orleans</i> from the Regency, and to vest it in the King of <i>Spain</i>, who
+wou’d have put the Duke of <i>Maine</i> in his Place, according to <i>Lewis</i>
+XIVth’s last Will. The bare Suspicion however amounted to fix the Guilt
+upon this Prince, and all that belong’d to him. It were to be wish’d, that
+some Eye-witness of what was then transacted at Court, and in <i>Bretagne</i>,
+wou’d give the Public an exact Account of it.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a>
+The Friar, who in the other Orders is a Prior, is call’d a
+Minister in this Order, which it better known in <i>France</i> by the Name of
+the <i>Mathurias</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a>
+In all Appearance, the <i>Latin</i> Name <i>Lutetia</i> comes from
+<i>Leucothecia</i>, which signifies <i>white Town</i>, a Name that <i>Strabo</i> gives to
+this City, the Houses of which were plaister’d. By Abbreviation it was
+call’d <i>Lutetia</i>. As to the Name <i>Paris</i>, ’tis certain, that it comes from
+<i>Para-Isis</i>, near <i>Isis</i>, a well-known Goddess, who had several Temples in
+this Canton; where she was so particularly worshipp’d, that from her Name
+the Inhabitants were call’d <i>Para-Isians</i>, the Neighbours of <i>Isis</i>. They,
+who have carefully examin’d the Gate of the <i>Carmelites</i> Church, and the
+Building of its Chapel, will own, that it was formerly the Temple of this
+Goddess; whose Statue, in Iron, holding a Handful of Ears of Corn, is
+still on the Front of the Building.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>
+The Author does not say <i>whither</i> nor <i>from whence</i> those
+Sheep are stray’d. All those Sheep feed in the same Pasture, or at least,
+there are but few of ’em that feed in the Pastures to which M. <i>de
+Vintimille</i> could wish to bring the others. Some Slanderers don’t scruple
+to say, that this <i>good</i> Prelate gives himself more Uneasiness about the
+<i>Excellency of the Dishes</i> at his Table, than the Goodness of the Pasture
+for his Sheep: For he has been seen to give the same Welcome to the
+<i>Jesuits</i>, and the <i>Fathers of the Oratory</i>, to the <i>Capuchins</i> and the
+<i>Benedictins</i>, &amp;c. For the Sake of such of our Readers as have a Taste for
+<i>French</i> Poetry, we insert the following <i>Epigram</i>; which was made upon
+this Prelate’s Mandate in Favour of the Constitution:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0"><i>Le Public est un Sot, d’être scandalisé</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Du Mandement que <span class="f">Vintimille</span></i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Vient de repandre dans la Ville,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Me disoit ce Matin un Docteur avisé!</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Il est, dit il, d’Usage indispensable,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>Pour qu’un Saint soit canonisé,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><i>D’entendre l’Avocat du Diable.</i><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a>
+This is a Thing in Question; and the Negative seems to be
+plainly proved by the Opinions of the Counsellors of the Parlement, all
+Men of unexceptionable Character, who voted for putting the Reverend
+Father to Death.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a>
+He is now Archbishop of <i>Sens</i>, and very well known for the
+famous Story of <i>Maria Aliacoque</i>, a celebrated Saint of his own making.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>
+The Count <i>de Gergy</i> died in 1733 in his Embassy, and was
+succeeded by the Count <i>de Froulay</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a>
+As the Parson of St. <i>Sulpice</i> stretches his Invention to
+the utmost, how to allure the Multitude, in 1734 he out-did all that he
+had ever done before, so that his Procession was more like the March of an
+Army than any thing else, because of the many Trumpets, Kettle-drums,
+Hunting-horns, <i>&amp;c.</i> which made the Air echo with their Flourishes. It may
+by Degrees come to be like the Processions at <i>Cambray</i>, <i>Antwerp</i>,
+<i>Brussels</i>, and other Towns of the <i>Netherlands</i>; where, to the Scandal of
+the Christian Religion, we see the Revival of all the Impertinencies of
+the Pagan.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a>
+The Mode of <i>Bagnolette</i>, <i>i. e.</i> Bathing-tubs, came from
+this Village, to which the Country-women carry them.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a>
+<i>Philippa Elisabeth</i> of <i>Orleans</i>. She died of the Small-pox
+<i>May</i> 21, 1734. unmarried, and universally lamented.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a>
+<i>Louisa Diana</i> of <i>Orleans</i>. She was married in 1732. to
+<i>Lewis</i> of <i>Bourbon</i>, Prince of <i>Conti</i>, by whom she had a Son, born
+<i>Sept.</i> 1, 1734. while the Prince was in the King’s Army upon the
+<i>Rhine</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a>
+It should have been observ’d in the Article of <i>Turin</i>, that
+this Queen died the second of <i>January</i>, 1735, O. S. and the King has
+since marry’d the eldest Sister of the present Duke of <i>Lorain</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a>
+He is married since 1732, to <i>Louisa-Diana</i> of <i>Orleans</i>,
+youngest Daughter of the late Regent.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a>
+The Origin of the Fable is this. <i>Mehemed Ben Aschen</i>, or
+the Son of <i>Aschen</i>, Admiral of <i>Sale</i>, was deputed from the King of
+<i>Morocco</i>, but I know not in what Year, to the Court of <i>France</i>. When
+this Corsair was at <i>Paris</i>, he heard great Talk of the Princess of
+<i>Conti</i>’s Beauty, and of the particular Affection which the King had for
+her: In order to ingratiate himself with the <i>French</i>, he gave out, that
+the Emperor his Master having seen the Picture of that Princess among
+other Effects which belong’d to a Christian who was taken into Slavery, he
+thought her the most beautiful of her Sex; and that his <i>Moorish</i> Majesty
+said, That if he had such a Lady in his Seraglio, he should never desire
+any other. <i>Mehemed</i>’s Story was presently carried far and near, but it
+was told quite different from the Truth; for it was reported in a very
+little time, that he was come to demand the Princess in Marriage for
+<i>Muley Ismael</i> his Master. As there seem’d to be something mysterious in
+the Picture, a Messenger was sent in all Haste to the Ambassador’s
+Lodgings, to know the Name of the Slave from whom it was taken; but his
+<i>Mahometan</i> Excellency so prevaricated, that his Answer was far from being
+satisfactory. Nevertheless, his pretended Demand of this Princess was so
+much the Subject of Conversation among the <i>French</i> for several Months,
+that according to the Custom of this People, they at length made a Sonnet
+upon it, which follows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To the Tune of <i>Je ne suis né ni Roi ni Prince</i>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Votre beauté, grande Princesse,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Porte les traits dont l’Amour blesse,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Jusques aux plus sauvages dieux:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L’Afrique avec vous capitule,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Et les conquétes de vos yeux<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Vont plus loin que celles d’Hercule.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">S’il est bien vrai qu’il vous adore,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Que je plains ce pauvre Roi Maure,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">D’être sensible à vos appas!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">En vain envers vous il s’explique;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">La France ne donnera pas<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Son Ange au Diable de l’Afrique.<br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+<p>Which may be thus English’d,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Your Beauty, Great Princess,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Carries Love’s killing Shafts<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To Nations the most savage;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0"><span class="f">Afric</span> with you capitulates,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the Conquests of your Eyes<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Even those of <span class="f">Hercules</span> surmount.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">If it be true that he adores you,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">How do I pity the poor Negro King,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who is so smitten with your Charms!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In vain he makes his Passion known to you;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For sure <span class="f">France</span> will never give<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her Angel to the Devil of <span class="f">Africa</span>.<br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a>
+’Tis a Letter <i>from a Gentleman retir’d from the World, to a
+Friend of his</i>, wherein he celebrates the happy Innocence, and the Freedom
+of his tranquil Retreat, in a Style that cannot but be pleasing to the
+Admirers of <i>French</i> Poetry; and for their Sakes we insert the Original,
+with only an <i>English</i> Paraphrase in the Margin.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+Je vois regner sur ce rivage          The Author begins with expressing
+L’Innocence et la Liberté.            his Surprise at the Concurrence
+Que d’Objects dans ce paisage,        of Objects of different Qualities
+Malgre leur contrarieté,              in his Retirement; such as
+M’étonnent par leur Assémbláge!       Abundance with Frugality,
+Abondante frugalité,                  Authority with Indulgence, Riches
+Autorité sans Esclaváge               with Sobriety,
+Richesses sans Libertinagé,
+Charges, Noblesse, sans fuerté.       Honours with Humility: And having
+Mon choix est fait, ce voisinage      therefore fix’d on this Spot for
+Détermine ma volonté.                 his Residence, he implores the
+Bienfaisante Divinité,                Sanction of the Divine Providence
+Ajoutez y votre suffrage.             to his Choice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+Disciple de l’Adversité,              Here he says, that having been
+Je viens faire dans le village        train’d-up in the School of
+Le volontaire apprentissage           Adversity, he prefers a voluntary
+D’une tardive obscurité.              Obscurity in the Village; that he
+Aussi bien, de mon plus bel âge       has experienc’d the Instability of
+J’apperçois l’instabilité.            Youth; that he has seen the Return
+J’ai deja, de compte arrêté,          of 40 Springs, which he regrets
+Quarante fois vu le feuillage         that he has so ill improv’d; and
+Par le Zéphyr ressuscité.             promises to make a better Use of
+Du Printems j’ai mal profité:         the Summer of his Life.
+J’en ai regret; et de l’Eté
+Je veux faire un meilleur usage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+J’apporte dans mon Hermitage,         He says he brings to his Hermitage
+Un cœur des longtems rebuté           a Heart which has been for a long
+Du prompt et funeste esclavage,       Time the fatal Slave of foolish
+Fruit de la folle vanité.             Vanity; but that now he is become
+Paisan sans rusticité,                a Peasant without Clownishness, a
+Hermite sans patelinage,              Hermit without Bigotry; and that
+Mon but est la tranquillité.          Tranquillity being his Aim, he
+Je veux pour unique partage,          desires no other Portion in Life
+La paix d’un cœur qui se dégage       but the Peace of his Mind,
+Des filets de la Volupté.             disentangled from the Snares of
+                                      Pleasure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+L’incorruptible probité,              Here he declares, that
+De mes Ayeux noble Heritage,          incorruptible Probity, the noble
+A la Cour ne m’a point quitté.        Inheritance he deriv’d from his
+Libre et franc, sans être sauvage,    Ancestors, did not forsake him at
+Du Courtisan fourbe et volage         Court, where being frank and free,
+L’exemple ne m’a point gâté,          without being rude, the Example of
+L’infatigable activité,               the crafty giddy Courtier had not
+                                      tainted him. He observes the good
+                                      Effect of his former Miscarriage;
+                                      that it has made him active and
+                                      indefatigable; and he hopes
+Reste d’un utile naufrage,            from henceforwards to be happy in
+Mes Etudes, mon Jardinage,            his Studies, in his Garden, and
+Un Repas sans art appreté,            in a plain Diet dress’d by his
+D’une Epouse œconome et sage          frugal prudent Wife, whose good
+La belle humeur, le bon ménage,       Nature is equal to her Œconomy.
+Vont faire ma félicité.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+C’est dans ce Port, qu’en sureté      In this Port, says he, my Vessel
+Ma Barque ne craint point l’orage.    dreads no Storm. Let who will defy
+Qu’un autre à son tour emporté,       the Rage of the Winds, while he
+Au gré de sa cupidité,                coasts along the Shore, I laugh at
+Sur le sein de l’humide plage,        his Presumption, and wish him a
+Des Vents ose affronter la rage;      good Voyage; but reserve my
+Je ris de sa témerité,                Courage for a more important
+Et lui souhaite un bon voyage.        Passage, and approach with
+Je réserve ma fermeté                 Boldness to the Gates of Eternity.
+Pour un plus important passage;
+Et je m’approche avec courage,
+Des portes de l’Eternité.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+Je sai que la mortalité               The Poet concludes with a
+Du Genre humain est l’appanage:       Reflection, that since Mortality
+Pourquoi seul serois-je excepté?      is intail’d upon all Mankind, why
+La vie est un pelerinage:             should he alone think to be
+De son cours la rapidité,             exempted? And he says, that since
+Loin de m’alarmer, me soulage.        Life is but a Pilgrimage, the
+De sa fin, quand je l’envisage,       Rapidity of its Race, instead of
+L’infallible necessité                alarming, comforts him; and that
+Ne me sauroit faire d’outrage.        the infallible Necessity of his
+Brulez de l’Or empaqueté,             Death, when he seriously considers
+Il n’en perit que l’embalage:         the Matter, is no more an Injury
+C’est tour. Un si leger dommage       to him, than the burning of a Bale
+Devroit-il être regreté?              of Gold is to the Metal, which
+                                      remains intire, tho’ the Case that
+                                      contains it is consum’d; which, he
+                                      adds, is too trifling a Loss to be
+                                      regarded.
+</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a>
+The King gave this young Duke, when he was but nine Years
+old, the Reversion of the Post of Great Admiral, for a New-Year’s Gift, on
+the first of <i>January</i> 1734. He is handsome, well-set, all Life and
+Spirit, and gives very fair Hopes of being a great Man.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a>
+As soon as he arrived, the Place <i>de Vendosme</i>, or the
+Square of <i>Lewis le Grand</i>, where M. <i>Daguesseau</i> liv’d, was set apart for
+the Stock-jobbing Trade, which was before carried on in the Street
+<i>Quinquempoix</i>; and one Morning, a Paper was found at the Chancellor’s
+Door, with these Words, <i>Et homo factus est, &amp; habitabit cum nobis</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a>
+He is actually join’d in the Administration with the
+Cardinal <i>de Fleury</i>, who was very glad to nominate a Person for his
+Coadjutor.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a>
+He died some time ago at <i>Paris</i>, very much lamented by all
+that knew him.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a>
+The present Archbishop of <i>Ambrun</i>, famous for his Zeal for
+the Constitution, for the Persecution of the Bishop of <i>Senez</i>, and for
+his little Council at <i>Ambrun</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a>
+He died at <i>Maestricht</i> in the Year 1734, a Cornet in the
+Regiment of the Prince of <i>Orange-Friseland</i>. But Mr. <i>Law</i> has left an
+amiable Daughter, who has had a fine Education, and married to Lord
+<i>Wallingford</i>, Son to the Earl of <i>Banbury</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a>
+These Verses are not in the first Edition of these Memoirs,
+but are added, by the Bookseller, to the second.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a>
+<i>James Nompar</i> of <i>Caument</i>, Duke <i>de la Force</i>, an
+assiduous humble Servant of Mr. <i>Law</i>, and who, by his Management, during
+the <i>Missisippi</i> Scheme, drew a great many Pasquinades upon himself, of
+which this is not the severest.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a>
+The Abbé <i>Terrasson</i>, who wrote in Favour of the Scheme.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a>
+<i>Law</i> had three Cocks for his Arms.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a>
+As these Lines will not admit of a Version to the
+Satisfaction of an <i>English</i> Reader, ’tis sufficient to acquaint him, that
+they are a Satire upon the Humour which prevail’d at that Time, among
+People of all Ranks, from the Duke to his Scullion, to be Adventurers in
+Mr. <i>Law</i>’s Scheme; a Madness which was contemporary, and equally
+mischievous with the Delusion that was so predominant in our own Country,
+in that fatal Year of 1720, when so many People were, as we may term it,
+cast away in the <i>South-Sea</i>, and the lesser Whirlpools, call’d <i>Bubbles</i>,
+of which there was almost an infinite Number.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a>
+This, with the Calculation annexed to it, is an Addition by
+the Editor, to the second Edition, which was not in the first Edition of
+these Memoirs.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a>
+There was a Label affixed to the Gate of the <i>Palais</i> Royal,
+with these Words, <i>Esurientes implevit bonis, &amp; Divites dimisit inanes</i>,
+i. e. The Hungry he hath fill’d with good Things, but the Rich he hath
+sent empty away.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a>
+He was of the <i>Lorain</i> Family, and was succeeded in his
+Office of Master of the Horse by his Son Prince <i>Charles</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a>
+The King of <i>France</i> having declar’d War against the Emperor
+in 1733, in Conjunction with the Kings of <i>Spain</i> and <i>Sardinia</i>, his
+Majesty gave the Marshal <i>de Villars</i> the Command of his Army in <i>Italy</i>;
+to which Country he repair’d after the Conquest of the <i>Milanese</i> had been
+very far advanc’d. He took <i>Pizzighitone</i>; but the Imperial Army being at
+length form’d, the Count <i>de Merci</i>, who commanded it, having taken the
+Field with it on a sudden, by passing the <i>Po</i>, made so many Motions, that
+the old Marshal, being forc’d to be <i>every-where</i>, according to his old
+Phrase, fell sick upon it, and was oblig’d to leave the Army. Some do not
+stick to say, that he had Orders for it from Court, where his Conduct was
+not approv’d: Be this as it will, his Distemper growing worse upon his
+Arrival at <i>Turin</i>, he died there the 17th of <i>June</i> 1734, in the 84th
+Year of his Age, in the same Room, as ’tis said, where he was born, his
+Father the Marquis <i>de Villars</i> being then there by Order of the King. In
+1702 he married <i>Joanna-Angelica Roque de Varengeville</i>, whose Father was
+the King’s Ambassador at <i>Venice</i>. The Family of <i>Villars</i> is originally
+of <i>Lyons</i>, and first began to be distinguish’d in the Person of <i>Claude
+de Villars</i>, Lord of <i>Chapelle</i>, and <i>Masclas</i>, second Son to <i>Francis de
+Villars</i>, born about <i>Ann.</i> 1516. The Marshal was to the last a Man of
+uncommon Gaiety and Gallantry; for whether Fighting or Dancing, he
+appear’d with the same Vivacity and good Humour, and seem’d an Enemy to
+none except the Jesuits. What did not consist with such a Temper, was his
+Love of Money; and he inrich’d himself too much by the Spoils of War, and
+the Contributions he used to raise for Safe-guards, <i>&amp;c.</i> But as for his
+Soldier-like Character, this one Story of him may suffice; In 1702 the
+Marshal order’d his Army to pass the <i>Rhine</i> at <i>Haguenau</i>, the same Night
+that he invited several Gentlemen and ladies to a Ball, where he danc’d
+till two o’Clock in the Morning, and then mounted his Horse unobserv’d,
+and follow’d his Army; with which he surprised the Prince of <i>Baden</i>, and
+fought a Battle by the Time the Ball was broke up; for which Action the
+King gave him the Marshal’s Batoon. The Conquests of <i>Milan</i> and other
+Places in <i>Italy</i>, which he made in 1733, were accompany’d also with
+Dancing and Balls; but Age and Infirmities, at last, made a Conquest of
+him. His Memory and his Judgment so fail’d him, that he became troublesome
+to the Army; but his fighting Humour still prevail’d, and he would have
+endanger’d all, had not the King of Sardinia prevail’d on the King of
+<i>France</i> to recall him. However, the King of <i>Sardinia</i> took Leave of him
+in the Field with great Civility, and at his Arrival at <i>Turin</i>, where he
+fell ill of a Dysentery, accompany’d with a Fever, of which he died, he
+was receiv’d very graciously by the late Queen, who presented him with a
+Diamond Sword, valued at 300 Pistoles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The following Sonnet was presented to the Marshal, when he set out for
+<i>Italy</i>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Villars, tes grands Exploits qui sauverent la France,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dans les Siecles futurs t’immortaliseront.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">La Paix fut le doux fruit de ta haute prudence;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mais de nouveaux Lauriers doivent ceindre ton front.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Le Pere de ton Roi, l’Espagne &amp; le Piémont,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sur toi seul aujourd’hui fondent leurs Esperances.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Arme ton bras vainquer, cours venger leur affront;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L’Allemand pourra-i-il soutenir ta présence?<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Les grands Cœurs en tout tems conservent leur valeur,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L’Age respecte en eux leur prémiere vigueur,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ils savent s’affranchir des Loix de la Nature:<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Semblables aux Lauriers que leur main va cueillir,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Qui des ans, des saisons ne craiguent point l’injure,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Les Héros ont le droit le ne jamais vieillir.<br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+<div class="poemhdr" style="width: 20em;">i. e.</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0"><span class="f">Villars</span>, thy great Exploits, which sav’d all <span class="f">France</span>,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In future Ages will immortalise thee.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Peace was the kind Product of thy great Wisdom;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But new Laurels are still to deck thy Brow.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">The Father of thy King, <span class="f">Spain</span>, and <span class="f">Piedmont</span> too,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Upon thee alone do now found all their Hopes.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Haste with thy conqu’ring Arm their Quarrel to avenge;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Will <span class="f">Germany</span> be able to withstand thy Presence?<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Great Souls always retain their Valour;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To their former Vigour Age itself pays a Respect;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They can shake off the Yoke of Nature’s Laws.<br /></span>
+</i></div>
+
+<div class="stanza"><i>
+<span class="i0">Like to the Laurels gather’d by their Hands,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Which are Proof against the Injuries of Years and Seasons,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Heroes never stoop to old Age.<br /></span>
+</i></div></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a>
+By Mrs. <i>Arabella Churchill</i>, Sister to the late Duke of <i>Marlborough</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a>
+The King, having appointed the Marshal <i>de Villars</i> to
+command in <i>Italy</i>, thought fit to send the Marshal <i>de Berwic</i> to oppose
+Prince <i>Eugene</i>, whom the Emperor had nominated for the Command on the
+<i>Rhine</i>. He began the Siege of <i>Philipsburg</i>; but on the first of <i>June</i>,
+O. S. 1734, as he went to take a View of the Trenches, he was kill’d with
+a Cannon Ball between his two Grandsons. He is succeeded in all his Titles
+by his Son the Duke <i>de Liria</i>, now Duke of <i>Berwic</i>, <i>&amp;c.</i> who has been
+lately at the Court of <i>Naples</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+It will be doing no Dishonour to the Marshal, to say he made War his
+Trade, which he studied with an unwearied Application; and as he never
+wanted Courage, so none had more military Knowledge. Having consider’d War
+as a Science, he left little to Chance, or even Bravery; but depended upon
+Skill and Discipline, which was the Thing that gain’d him the Battle of
+<i>Almanza</i>. As he was so regular and mechanical a Warrior, he was himself
+the Life and Soul of his Army, not as he was belov’d, but as he was much
+fear’d by his Soldiers, whom he never spar’d, and least of all, his own
+Countrymen, that came to serve in <i>France</i>. He was reserved even to his
+General Officers, rarely consulting them, nor so much as communicating the
+Orders he had receiv’d, or the Designs he had projected, but as they had
+their own Parts to execute in them. Tho’ he was the best regular General
+of his Time, yet he was the least enterprizing one. He was never a great
+Favourite at the Court of <i>France</i>, which is something to be wonder’d at,
+considering the Use he was made of upon every Occasion; for as a Soldier
+of Fortune, he had no Obligations but for his Appointments; and yet
+attach’d himself to <i>France</i> preferably to any other Nation. As he was
+bred up in the War against the <i>English</i>, his Enmity to them became a
+second Nature, which is suppos’d to be the Reason that he never did one of
+that Nation any Service, beside those of his own Family. As the Marshal
+took care to be obey’d by the Officers and Soldiers of the Armies he
+commanded, he was always obsequious himself to the Orders of the Court, of
+which there needs no other Proof, than the Instance above-mention’d; when
+he appear’d in Arms against <i>Spain</i> with Alacrity, after he had receiv’d
+the highest Honours from King <i>Philip</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+He had the Title of Duke of <i>Berwic</i>, and likewise the Garter conferr’d on
+him by King <i>James</i>. He was born in 1671, so that when he died, he was
+sixty-three Years of Age.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a>
+The Family of <i>Estrées</i>, originally of <i>Picardy</i>, was in
+Possession of the Dignities of the Crown before <i>Gabriella</i>; for her
+Grandfather was Great Master of the Artillery of <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a>
+This is the common Name in <i>Italy</i> for Interpreters or
+Expounders of Antiquities.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a>
+Here should have been added, <i>of the Poet</i> Paul Scarron. She
+was the Daughter of <i>Constans d’Aubigny</i>, Baron of <i>Surincan</i>, and of
+<i>Joan de Cardillac</i>. <i>Charles d’Aubigny</i>, Governor of <i>Berry</i>, and Knight
+of the King’s Orders, who died in 1703, was her Brother. Her Grandfather
+was <i>Theodore Agrippa d’Aubigny</i>, Admiral of <i>Bretagne</i> and <i>Guienne</i>,
+celebrated for his Zeal for the Protestant Religion, and Author of a
+<i>History of his own Time</i>, of the <i>Confession</i> of <i>Saney</i>, and of the
+Baron <i>de Faneste</i>. Every body knows, that the Attachment of his Widow
+<i>Scarron</i> to Madame <i>de Montespan</i>, made her Way to <i>Lewis</i> XIV. who was
+so pleas’d with her Humour, that she continued in the highest Favour till
+that Monarch’s Death; and enjoy’d a Pension of 50,000 Livres, which was
+punctually paid her by <i>Lewis</i> XV. every Year as long as she liv’d. After
+her Death, the Duke de <i>Noailles</i> became Marquis <i>de Maintenon</i> in Right
+of his Wife.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a>
+This alludes to a Joke of the President <i>de Harlai</i>, who
+when he was accosted by the Comedians, in the Name of their <i>Troop</i>, which
+that worthy Gentleman never car’d for, especially since <i>Tartuffe</i>, and
+the Comedians saying to him, <i>My Lord, the</i> Company <i>of Comedians</i>, &amp;c.
+The President made Answer, <i>Gentlemen</i>, the Troop <i>of the Parliament</i>,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a>
+The Author refers here to the Works directed by Mr. <span class="smcap">Benson</span>,
+one of the present Auditors of the Imprest (for which see p. 67. of the
+First Volume of these Memoirs).</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a>
+The Bottle called the Holy Phial, is kept at <i>Rheims</i>, in
+the Tomb of St. <i>Remy</i>, in the Church of that Name. It has not been filled
+since the Coronation of <i>Clovis</i>, when ’tis said this Phial was brought
+from Heaven, with the Oil with which that first Christian King of <i>France</i>
+was consecrated; and the Frier who shews it at <i>Rheims</i>, says very
+seriously, That when the King is sick, it dries away; so that when he
+dies, there is not a Drop left in the Bottle; but that as soon as his
+Successor is proclaimed, it fills again of its own Accord. I tell you no
+more than what I heard with my own Ears, and tho’ I could not help smiling
+at it, the Frier was not angry. The Liquefaction of this Oil is altogether
+as miraculous as that of St. <i>Januarius</i>’s Blood at <i>Naples</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a>
+The Abbé <i>de Vayrac</i> was of a good Family in <i>Guienne</i>, and
+had all the Vivacity natural to that Province, which stood him in the
+stead of Wit; but it was of the abusive Kind. If ever an Author was a
+Plagiary, he was. He published a <i>State</i> of <i>Spain</i>, and a <i>State</i> of the
+Empire; which last brought him under an ignominious Sentence of the Court
+of <i>Vienna</i>. He had also composed a History of <i>Portugal</i>, which he could
+not obtain a Licence for Printing, because it appear’d that he had paid
+greater Compliments in it to the <i>Portuguese</i>, than to the <i>French</i>. He
+died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, as he returned from a Journey he
+had made to <i>Holland</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a>
+In 1643.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a>
+This famous Counsellor was restor’d not long after, at the
+pressing Instances of his Brethren, and has merited the Elogiums of the
+Minister himself, as well as of all <i>France</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a>
+<i>Pucelage</i> is the <i>French</i> Word for <i>Virginity</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a>
+Neither was he included in the Promotion of the four
+Marshals of <i>France</i>, which the King made in 1734, tho’ he had served with
+great Bravery ever since the Beginning of the last War between <i>France</i>
+and <i>Germany</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a>
+This Minister pleases them to Perfection. They all like his
+Behaviour, and the Diligence with which he dispatches Business. In a Word,
+he is beloved and adored.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a>
+In <i>November</i> 1736, she was delivered of a Son.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a>
+Prince <i>Christian</i> II. Son of the Prince <i>de la Tour</i>. He
+resigned his Canonship of Cologn, on purpose to serve in the Emperor’s
+Army.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a>
+The Marshal <i>de Zumjungen</i> dy’d the 25th of <i>August</i> 1732.
+The Count <i>de Wurmbrand</i> commanded till another was appointed.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a>
+<i>Gand</i> signifies <i>Ghent</i> in the <i>German</i>, and <i>Glove</i> in the
+<i>English</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a>
+He is the Great Great Grandson of Prince <i>Maurice</i>, by the
+Lady <i>de Malines</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a>
+The Emperor lately appointed him to relieve the Count <i>de
+Sastago</i>, Viceroy of <i>Sicily</i>, at the Time that Don <i>Carlos</i>, King of
+<i>Naples</i>, went to make a Descent upon <i>Sicily</i>, with twenty thousand Men,
+under the Command of the Count <i>de Montemar</i>, Duke of <i>Bitonto</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a>
+M. <i>d’Amerongen</i>, who is descended of one of the best
+Families in the Province of <i>Utrecht</i>, having lost his elder Brother, who
+was in the Regency, has quitted his Service to succeed him in the
+Government.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a>
+It was burnt quite to the Ground in the Beginning of the
+Year 1734.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a>
+<span class="smcap">Vol. I.</span> LETTER V.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a>
+He succeeded <i>Francis Lewis</i> of <i>Neubourg</i>, Elector of
+<i>Mentz</i>, who was chose Grand Master the 12th of <i>July</i> 1694, In the Room
+of his Brother, <i>Lewis Anthony</i> of <i>Neubourg</i>; and he is the fourteenth
+Grand Master since the Defection of <i>Prussia</i>, formerly the Seat of this
+Order, which has existed ever since the Year 1190; when it was instituted
+in the Holy Land, by <i>Henry</i> King of <i>Jerusalem</i>. A Duke of <i>Masovia</i>,
+having invited to his House <i>Herman de Salsza</i>, the fourth Grand Master of
+the new Order, chose in 1210, he gave him, and his Knights, Lands upon the
+Frontiers of <i>Prussia</i>; the Inhabitants whereof being <i>Pagans</i>, did great
+Mischief to his Subjects, and he promised to leave them all the Lands that
+they conquered from those People, which the Emperor and the Pope
+confirmed. Before the Year 1250, they took <i>Prussia</i>, <i>Courland</i>, and a
+Part of <i>Livonia</i>; and put all the <i>Pagans</i> to Death that refused to turn
+Christian. The <i>Teutonic</i> Knights, being driven out of the Holy Land, by
+the taking of <i>Acre</i>, went and established the principal House of their
+Order at <i>Marpurg</i>, in the Beginning of the fourteenth Century; from
+whence they transferred it to <i>Marienbourg</i> in <i>Prussia</i>. The Order made
+such a rapid Progress, that in the Beginning of the following Century, it
+was in a Condition to oppose <i>Jagellon</i>, King of <i>Poland</i>, with an Army of
+eighty-three thousand Men; which that Prince, <i>Anno</i> 1410, cut in Pieces.
+After that time the Order was scarce ever at Peace, but was always at
+Variance, either with the <i>Poles</i>, or the <i>Lithuanians</i>, or with the
+<i>Russians</i>, or with its own Subjects; till it was obliged to make a
+dishonourable Peace in 1446, with <i>Casimir</i> King of <i>Poland</i>. The Grand
+Masters, from that Time to 1510, when <i>Albert</i> of <i>Brandenbourg</i> was chose
+Grand Master, could not repair their Losses. The latter having embraced
+the Protestant Religion, made a Bargain in 1515, with the King of
+<i>Poland</i>, and yielded all <i>Russia</i> to him, on Condition of holding of him
+in Fee, what was afterwards called <i>Ducal Prussia</i>, or <i>Brandenbourg
+Prussia</i>, which now forms the Kingdom of <i>Prussia</i>; and the rest was
+incorporated with <i>Poland</i>, and forms the Palatinates of <i>Culm</i>,
+<i>Marienbourg</i>, <i>&amp;c.</i> Thus were the <i>Teutonic</i> Knights obliged to retire to
+<i>Germany</i>, where their Order is shared into twelve Provinces, each of
+which has its particular Commandeurs; and their oldest Commandeur is
+called the Provincial Commandeur. These twelve Commandeurs depend on the
+Grand Master, and have a Right to chuse him. The Grand Master’s Residence
+is at <i>Marien-shal</i> in Franconia, and his Revenue about twenty thousand
+Crowns. ’Tis said, the Order does not yet despair, that some Day or other,
+it will be able to recover its lost Dominions.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a>
+He is dead.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a>
+He was Grand Master of the <i>Teutonic</i> Order, Bishop of
+<i>Strasbourg</i>, <i>Halberstadt</i>, <i>Passau</i>, <i>Olenitz</i> and <i>Breslaw</i>; Abbot of
+<i>Hirchsfeldt</i>, <i>Murbach</i> and <i>Luders</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a>
+Nevertheless, he was disgrac’d in 1733, for a very trifling
+Cause, which made the Count <i>de la Lippe</i>, also, lose all his Employments;
+and his own Disgrace has been attended with that of his whole Family, and
+with great Alterations at the Elector’s Court, where the Count <i>de
+Hohen-Zollern</i> is now Grand Master of the Houshold, and First Minister;
+and the Baron <i>de Hornstein</i> Great Chamberlain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a>
+He was scarce twenty-eight Years of Age.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a>
+The Baron <i>de Roll</i> has succeeded him in his Place.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a>
+The Count, who is a Lover of the Sciences, intends to make a
+<i>Lycaum</i> of his Castle, and a little <i>Athens</i> of his Town. He begins by
+forming a numerous Library, and longs to get the Learned about him. But
+the main Point is to make a good Choice of them; and the first Choice
+which the Count has made of a Man who has already engrossed his Favour,
+does not promise well for the future.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a>
+He died in 1734.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a>
+On the Road, two Leagues from <i>Cleves</i>, there’s the Palace
+of <i>Meiland</i>, where the King of <i>Prussia</i> resided at the Beginning of the
+Illness which he contracted in 1734, as he returned from the Imperial Army
+on the <i>Rhine</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a>
+The Name of this Prelate was <i>Barkman Wuytiers</i>. He died in
+1733, at no very great Age, with the Character of a Man of the strictest
+Virtue. The Court of <i>Rome</i>, and the <i>Jesuits</i>, conceiv’d great Hopes
+after his Death. The latter, after having been banished out of the United
+Provinces by very severe Laws; employed the Mediation of a certain Court
+to succeed in their Design of getting an Apostolical Vicar accepted in the
+Place of the Archbishop of <i>Utrecht</i>; but this Design, which was look’d
+upon as dangerous to the Liberty of the Republic, miscarry’d, and the
+Deceased was succeeded by <i>Theodore van der Kroon</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a>
+What is said throughout this Article, of their Manner of
+living, must be understood only of the common People, and not of Persons
+of any distinguished Rank, nor even of the Merchants.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a>
+As there is no Dignity superior to that of the Burgomaster,
+they who attain to it succeed one another in the several Functions,
+without passing to other Employments: They are the Members of the Council,
+who are sent to the College of Counsellor-Deputies, or who fill the Posts
+of Treasurers, <i>&amp;c.</i> But the Burgomasters are they who go to the
+Assemblies of the States of the Province, with the Pensionary or Syndic of
+the City, who is the Spokesman.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a>
+He is since dead.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a>
+This Minister was succeeded in 1734, by the Count
+<i>d’Uhlefeld</i>, Son to the Lady who has the chief Direction of the Houshold
+to the Archduchess, Governess of the <i>Austrian Netherlands</i>. He is come to
+a Post which was so well fill’d before, in a very difficult Juncture,
+which has given him an Opportunity to discover the great Talents he has
+for Negotiation. As his Family is one of the best regulated, so it may be
+said to be one of the most magnificent. The Count <i>de Sinzendorff</i> died
+suddenly about the End of <i>September, 1734</i>, at the Seat of the Count
+<i>d’Asperen</i>, at the very Instant when he was preparing to return to
+<i>Vienna</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a>
+These Differences were indeed adjusted during the Time that
+M. <i>de Masch</i> resided here with a Ministerial Character; but he had no
+Hand in the Accommodation, it being negotiated only by M. <i>Luiscius</i> the
+King’s Resident, and M. <i>Duncan</i>, the Prince of <i>Orange</i>’s
+Privy-Counsellor, or Major-Domo.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a>
+Upon the Death of the King of <i>Poland</i>, he was confirmed by
+the new Elector of <i>Saxony</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a>
+M. <i>Preys</i>. He has resided at the <i>Hague</i> for several
+Years, and was here during the Time of the Ambassador <i>Palmquist</i>, whom he
+Succeeded. He is a Minister of consummate Knowledge in Affairs, and is
+consulted by others of a more modern Standing, both with Pleasure and
+Profit.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a>
+M. <i>Greys</i> has for several Years had the Care, as Envoy
+Extraordinary, of the King of Denmark’s Interests with the States General.
+He was bred up to be a Minister at the Altar, but had more Inclination to
+be a Minister of the Cabinet, in which he succeeded, and is very much
+esteem’d, but sees very little Company.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a>
+This able Minister died in <i>December, 1736</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a>
+M. <i>de Keppel</i> married the Widow of the late Count <i>de
+Welderen</i>, one of the greatest Men of this Republic, who left three Sons
+and five Daughters, that are the Ornament of the Nobility of
+<i>Guelderland</i>, and the Darlings of the <i>Hague</i>, where Foreigners have an
+easy and agreeable Access to this Lady’s House. M. <i>de Keppel</i>, one of the
+finest Gentlemen of his Time, and one of the bravest Officers of the
+State, died in 1733, leaving only one Son, who is an Officer in the Horse
+Guards.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a>
+The good Lady died of the Small Pox in 1735 in a very
+advanced Age. Tho’ she had made a Profession of Devotion for a certain
+time, she had not intirely lost her Taste for Gallantry, in which she
+certainly out-stripped the Lady <i>Mazarine</i>; for she declared herself, that
+it would be more easy to number the Shells upon the Shore at <i>Scheveling</i>,
+than her Adventures of Gallantry. She never missed her Aim but at one Man,
+and that was King <i>Augustus</i>. She did all she could to engage his
+Caresses, if not his Affection, but without Success; and every body knows
+the Adventure of my Lord <i>Raby</i>, who having an Amour with the Countess at
+<i>Berlin</i>, surprised her with King <i>Augustus</i> striving to get loose from
+her close Embraces. Nor is this a Wonder; for tho’ the King of <i>Poland</i>
+did not want Gallantry, yet he was for a Woman of some Politeness, of
+which the Countess had no Share; for being the Daughter of a Waterman at
+<i>Emmeris</i>, she had not the completed Education. She had Beauty indeed, but
+was in every other respect a coarse Lady. Nevertheless, during her
+Residence at the <i>Hague</i>, the Youth who had nothing else to employ their
+Time, constantly reported to her House, and among these she had always
+some favourite Spark. Every body knows her Intrigues with the famous Count
+<i>de F——</i>; and her Last Will and Testament has render’d several others
+immortal. You will be surprised to know the End of this Woman, who had
+been so much talked of, who had regaled so many People in her Time, and to
+whom every body had easy Access. She dies, is immediately removed out of
+her Chamber, and put into a Coffin in the Entry of her House, which is
+sealed up, and she is interred without one of her ungrateful Favourites
+vouchsafing to attend her Funeral, or indeed any body but the Bearers, and
+a few Neighbours, who were insulted by the Mob.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a>
+The Issue of this Dispute betwixt the Jew and the
+Anabaptist has been, that the latter has lost the Day, the Comedians being
+gone. The victorious Jew has hit upon an Expedient to metamorphose his
+future Opera into a public Concert, which he gives every <i>Monday</i> in the
+Afternoon, where one sees all the People of Fashion of both Sexes; and
+there they sing Opera Acts, and the finest <i>French</i> Cantatas.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a>
+Of the latter, there died a Baron in <i>December</i>, 1736, who
+was one of the principal Men, and held the greatest Offices of any in the
+Republic, next to the Grand Pensionary <i>Slingeland</i>, whom he survived but
+a few Days.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a>
+M. <i>de Wassenaar-Twickel</i>, a Name which he derives from a
+fine Estate in the Province of <i>Over-Yssel</i>, of which he is Deputy.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a>
+<i>William Charles Henry Friso</i>, Prince of <i>Orange</i>, was
+married <i>March</i> 14. 1734. to the Princess Royal of <i>Great Britain</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a>
+The Count <i>d’Auverquerque</i> died Velt-Marshal of the
+Republic, about the End of the Campaign of 1708.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a>
+As the History of this extraordinary Man came to the Hands
+of the Bookseller since the Publication of the first Edition, he thought
+he should do a Pleasure to the Public, by inserting it in this.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a>
+He was executed in <i>July</i>, 1734.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a>
+Or the <i>Palace of Orange</i> in the Wood at the <i>Hague</i>. It
+was yielded to the Prince of <i>Orange</i> by his Treaty of Partition with the
+King of <i>Prussia</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a>
+<i>Margaret</i>, Daughter of <i>Florence</i> IV. Count of <i>Holland</i>.
+She was Countess of <i>Henneberg</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a>
+This belongs also to the Prince of <i>Orange</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a>
+This is an ignominious Punishment inflicted Abroad for such
+heinous Offences at deserve neither Banishment, nor Whipping, nor Death.
+The Criminal who suffers it, stands in a Shirt, with a Rope about the
+Neck, holding a burning Taper in one Hand, attended by the Executioner,
+and other inferior Officers of Justice, and in this Posture begs Pardon of
+the King, of Justice, and the Public, for the Offence committed.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a>
+This most Excellent Princess departed this Life the 20th of
+<i>Nov.</i> 1737, to the infinite Regret of the King and Kingdom.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a>
+His Governor is the Hon. <i>Stephen Poyntz</i>, Esq; and his
+Preceptor in the learned Languages <i>Jenkin Thomas Philips</i>, Esq; formerly
+Secretary to the Commissioners for the Fifty New Churches, and since
+preferr’d to be his Majesty’s Historiographer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a>
+Her Royal Highness, as is well known, is since married to
+the Prince of <i>Orange</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="c3"><a name="Changes" id="Changes"></a>TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS</div>
+
+<p>Transcriber’s Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that remain,
+some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when they fall in the
+middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been moved. Footnotes are now
+immediately preceding this note. We have rendered consistent on a
+per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or spacing of such pairs when repeated
+in the same grammatical context. We have corrected inconsistencies in the
+application of accents to the same word when repeated in the same
+grammatical context. Paragraph formatting has been made consistent. The
+publisher’s inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been
+corrected. A table of contents has been added.</p>
+
+<p>The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number
+represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext
+except for footnotes since they have been moved.</p>
+
+<pre> Page          Change
+
+    7  the Condu ctof[Conduct of] the Popes,
+    8  not a Man spoke a Work[Word].
+    9  in a Posture of Astonish mentat[Astonishment at] the Appearance
+   17  proclaimed Pope on <i>Wedcesday[Wednesday]</i> the 12th
+   20  After this, th y[they] went all, both Cardinals and Prelates
+   87  {footnote} <i>Sebastian</i> was Grandon[Grandson] of <i>John</i> III.
+  110  intituled[intitled] Captain of the Appeals;
+  122  chief Lackeys of the Cardinals rideing[riding]
+  202  the famous Story of <i>Maria Aliacoque[Alacoque]</i>, a celebrated Saint
+  208  as she allighted[alighted] from the Coach,
+  222  Assistance from the King his Maste[Master]:
+  225  {footnote} Et lui southaite[souhaite] un bon voyage.
+  229  intent upon carrrying[carrying] his Point,
+  232  Count <i>Sinzendorf's[Sinzendorff's]</i> coming from <i>Vienna</i>
+  244  a Madness which was co-temporary[contemporary],
+  264  After her Death, the Duke de <i>Noalies[Noailles]</i> became
+  292  General of the Coriers[Couriers], Posts and Relays
+  294  about their Master's Preeminency[Pre-eminency].
+  309  and lives very handsomly[handsomely],
+  309  but lives handsomly[handsomely] upon what he has
+  313  The Inhabitants have a livid unwholsome[unwholesome] Complexion.
+  351  His Disbursments[Disbursements] seem to me to be very moderate
+  359  <i>Paul Veronese</i>, <i>Tintoret</i>, <i>Corregio[Correggio]</i>,
+  376  are commonly employed as Tresurers[Treasurers] of the City,
+  389  and the <i>Amsterdamers[Amsterdammers]</i> themselves cannot
+  419  a young Man of an unblamable[unblameable] Behaviour;
+  425  of the <i>Franche Comte[Comté]</i>. The Republic
+  443  that of being sollicited[solicited] by the Person in Disgrace
+Index  <i>Churchil[Churchill], Arabella</i>, 257.
+Index  Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gameing[Gaming],
+Index  <i>Hagendorp[Hogendorp]</i>, M. 413.
+Index  <i>Lewid’ors[Lewis d’Ors]</i>, worn in a Lady’s Ears for Pendants, 218.
+Index  <i>Peyronie[Peyrome]</i>, <i>la</i>, Surgeon, 292.
+Index  <i>Popes</i>, the Days on which he[the] Cardinals kiss
+Index  <i>Rochebone[Rochebonne]</i>, M. Archbishop of <i>Lyons</i>, 174, 176.
+Index  <i>Terasson[Terrasson]</i>, Abbé, 243.
+Index  <i>Tintorit[Tintoret]</i>, Painter, 359.
+Index  <i>Tourlane[Touraine], la</i>, 216.
+Index  <i>Walpot[Walpol]</i>, Baron <i>de</i>, 350.
+Index  His Conduct in the <i>Cevennios[Cevennois]</i> and in
+Index  <i>Wassienaurs[Wassenaars]</i>, of <i>Holland</i>, 412.
+Index  <i>William</i> l. Pr. of <i>Orange</i>’s Assasination[Assassination], 425.
+Index  Disputes adjusted relateing[relating] to his Succession,
+</pre>
+
+<div style="padding-top: 1em;"><a href="#Start">Start of text.</a></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II
+       Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels From
+       Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland,
+       England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not
+       Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but
+       the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several
+       Courts.
+
+Author: Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz
+
+Release Date: January 5, 2012 [EBook #38501]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS--BARON DE POLLNITZ, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated
+faithfully except as shown in the TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS at the end of
+the text. This etext presumes a mono-spaced font on the user's device,
+such as Courier New. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. But the
+publisher also wanted to emphasize words in sentences already italicized,
+so he printed them in the regular font which is indicated here with: _The
+pirates then went to +Hispaniola+._ Footnotes are located near the end of
+the work.
+
+[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode]
+
+
+
+
+                                  THE
+
+                                MEMOIRS
+
+                                   OF
+
+                            _CHARLES-LEWIS_,
+
+                           Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                                 BEING
+
+   The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro'
+
+                        _GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_,
+                          _ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_,
+                         _FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c.
+
+                       In LETTERS to his FRIEND.
+
+ Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;
+
+                                  BUT
+
+     The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS.
+
+                            In TWO VOLUMES.
+
+                                VOL. II.
+
+                  The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS.
+
+                               _LONDON_:
+
+ Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_.
+                              M.DCC.XXXIX.
+
+
+
+
+                           TABLE OF CONTENTS
+
+
+                       LETTER XXVIII          1
+
+                       LETTER XXIX           24
+
+                       LETTER XXX            46
+
+                       LETTER XXXI           55
+
+                       LETTER XXXII          77
+
+                       LETTER XXXIII         95
+
+                       LETTER XXXIV         113
+
+                       LETTER XXXV          129
+
+                       LETTER XXXVI         151
+
+                       LETTER XXXVII        168
+
+                       LETTER XXXVIII       179
+
+                       LETTER XXXIX         189
+
+                       LETTER XL            203
+
+                       LETTER XLI           228
+
+                       LETTER XLII          261
+
+                       LETTER XLIII         277
+
+                       LETTER XLIV          290
+
+                       LETTER XLV           310
+
+                       LETTER XLVI          325
+
+                       LETTER XLVII         337
+
+                       LETTER XLVIII        348
+
+                       LETTER XLIX          357
+
+                       LETTER L             364
+
+                       LETTER LI            384
+
+                       LETTER LII           394
+
+                       LETTER LIII          430
+
+                       LETTER LIV           449
+
+                       INDEX                473
+
+                       FOOTNOTES
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                   MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.
+
+                In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, July 30, 1730._
+
+Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which
+has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
+_Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
+because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
+I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
+beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
+Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
+shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
+rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
+described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
+Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.
+
+ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
+That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
+Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
+be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
+to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first
+Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
+with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
+the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
+and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
+Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
+When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a
+triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_,
+through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
+in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
+the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
+middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
+Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
+by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's
+a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
+worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village.
+The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
+consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
+the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
+Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
+Hovels.
+
+From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which
+lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in
+the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_,
+because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run
+Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day
+by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine
+Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_,
+_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.
+_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
+substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar,
+which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the
+Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
+place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called,
+because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
+it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
+the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+
+The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is
+called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
+leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so
+contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
+the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
+Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME.
+
+The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in
+it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one
+would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
+less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
+both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_,
+which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that
+Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In
+the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
+in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
+Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_,
+belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of
+Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a
+rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
+that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if
+true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
+perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
+Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
+_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
+dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
+
+The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
+Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies,
+sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
+Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
+every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of
+Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in
+Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press
+forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
+how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
+for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
+rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have
+the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I
+extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and
+there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
+Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abbes and Prelates; but they are
+not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
+the Ladies Coaches.
+
+Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets
+which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
+_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or
+to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
+Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous
+of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
+This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
+it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
+Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and
+their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
+Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
+
+The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square
+_Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
+Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis
+adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
+of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
+of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by
+Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
+this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
+Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
+it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
+which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.
+At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
+sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
+principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and
+_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by
+different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
+suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
+oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
+cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.
+
+Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_,
+begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.
+'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is
+an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
+Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
+belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal
+_Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
+Painting.
+
+The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its
+round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has
+been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an
+Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he
+afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope
+_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to
+the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
+the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the
+Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
+Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
+the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
+an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
+The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
+Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
+heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of
+that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Brass partly on the High Altar
+of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
+cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who
+did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_,
+who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
+the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it
+is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_
+was always spared.
+
+St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
+Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
+though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be
+worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
+lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it.
+Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
+in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is
+round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
+which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
+an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
+holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
+continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
+lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
+runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
+Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who
+may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments
+with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
+'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s
+Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
+_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
+a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
+Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
+Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
+of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a
+Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
+almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
+confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
+Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
+Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
+promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
+body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
+and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
+including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.
+caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
+at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
+that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_,
+and as many _Ave Maries_.
+
+When you have passed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some
+Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
+before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
+_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
+of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which
+form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all
+over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
+_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has
+represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
+Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
+Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
+_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not
+near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the
+Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
+shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.
+
+I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike
+me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
+Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I
+was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
+High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
+Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
+Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
+Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
+Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
+naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
+none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
+his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
+adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
+_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
+of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
+surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
+which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is
+hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.
+
+At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair,
+a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
+Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and
+St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
+raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
+which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
+Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand,
+has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of
+such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
+Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in
+whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
+not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
+altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
+_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes
+granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of
+that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
+Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
+honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
+Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated
+her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.
+_Christina_'s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
+Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
+perfectly well executed.
+
+Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular
+Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
+the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
+than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
+that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists
+have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
+of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
+_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
+coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
+would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
+Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
+extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
+is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
+design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
+grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
+their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
+on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a
+Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.
+
+The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
+Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
+Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
+Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
+leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
+the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
+_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
+by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.
+
+All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that
+the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious
+Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
+are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary
+Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_,
+our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the
+_Jesuits_.
+
+As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition,
+that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
+pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
+what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
+signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
+the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the
+more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.
+But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
+Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next
+Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
+by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of
+Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.
+The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
+the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_,
+because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
+last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those
+Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
+
+I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene.
+I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
+referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
+ROME to another Opportunity.
+
+The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
+warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
+have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
+chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_
+was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
+account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the
+Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
+their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People,
+that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he
+had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
+the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
+Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
+at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time,
+it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
+Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
+Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
+Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
+by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
+_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
+as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
+the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
+on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely
+for having done an Act of Justice.
+
+Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for
+Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_,
+pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
+Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed,
+and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de
+Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
+was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great
+Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own
+Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_
+Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it
+will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy,
+they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_,
+who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
+of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
+to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him
+directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to
+the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were
+accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
+consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his
+Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_
+having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
+the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the
+Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
+Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_
+hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared
+openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
+Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
+apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some
+other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
+to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him;
+and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
+conjured him for God's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement.
+'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
+end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
+have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course
+of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
+the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
+the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his
+Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
+obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
+consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal
+Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
+Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the
+best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
+of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any
+longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man
+whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
+length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope,
+they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
+Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be
+Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the
+Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
+_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
+Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were
+bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the
+Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
+Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_;
+yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are
+even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that
+they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore,
+that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
+Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
+of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
+Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
+exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
+Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.
+
+Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_,
+in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory
+of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
+Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
+_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that
+he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
+good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
+he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.
+
+In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.
+received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
+here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a
+while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and
+placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
+of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
+down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
+after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day
+and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for
+afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
+the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great
+Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and
+then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the
+great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel
+of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
+he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
+Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
+where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
+Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel;
+and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
+his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
+where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there
+were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
+Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.
+
+The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
+giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
+Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_
+Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a
+long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
+Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME
+about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
+him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
+Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of
+the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
+they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they
+had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,'
+said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
+Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my
+Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then
+turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal,
+whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew,
+_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
+Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
+rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
+may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
+it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
+want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.
+ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.
+
+The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I
+can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
+who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
+in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
+Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
+then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico,
+where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to
+kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
+the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
+kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
+the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer
+prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the
+Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
+on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_,
+they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
+white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
+they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
+with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
+Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
+Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
+his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
+a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from
+his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
+before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
+his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
+he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
+him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
+_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth
+away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
+Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he
+lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
+When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
+deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
+of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
+him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
+Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
+erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
+upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
+Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_,
+with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
+the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
+were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
+I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here
+these two Months.
+
+From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
+pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's
+Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
+Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a
+Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
+returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
+consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
+one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
+to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
+had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
+Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
+by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
+to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
+great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
+seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
+Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
+Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
+People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that
+led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were
+fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
+their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
+placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
+dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
+Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
+were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of
+St. _Angelo_.
+
+Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
+seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the
+Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
+Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
+that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is
+covered with precious Stones, tho' I assure you, that there cannot be a
+greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
+Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
+august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is
+hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the
+very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon
+this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_
+could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
+affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
+has deviated from the Truth.
+
+The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the
+Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
+commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
+_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
+Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
+Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.
+
+Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and
+took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father
+marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond
+of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
+seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
+in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback,
+his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
+Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
+as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw
+_Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed
+nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._
+
+In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I
+traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
+Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
+that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are
+here styled Palaces.
+
+I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and
+_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
+for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
+Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
+healthful Air in the City.
+
+The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
+and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
+its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired
+in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
+employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
+help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
+the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to
+have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has
+done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
+of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.
+
+_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
+Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
+by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons
+of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake
+them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
+did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
+of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among
+the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
+out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
+extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
+thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune
+to be in such Company, there he must stay.
+
+The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
+the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_,
+and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
+best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
+_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The
+former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
+_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_
+submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased
+by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this
+Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from
+the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the
+Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
+is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
+are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted,
+both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
+of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
+Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
+Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of
+sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
+ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
+Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.
+
+The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
+his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought
+it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_,
+which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And
+as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
+if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
+the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the
+Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
+with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
+Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
+Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
+used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
+Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.
+
+I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
+touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
+most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
+_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_,
+he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a
+Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the
+_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
+_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the
+Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When
+he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
+that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
+the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
+at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
+Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
+at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
+enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
+were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should
+give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
+however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
+Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
+they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
+_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
+_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
+College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
+for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
+Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
+State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had
+done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand
+Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he
+converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body
+groan'd; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so
+byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even
+the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to
+the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he
+would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_
+confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of
+every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my
+Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken
+me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too
+strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made
+his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his
+Good-nature, that he wept too.
+
+I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which
+however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals
+represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of
+innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the
+World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he
+would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged
+was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_
+easily brought himself off. He said, 'twas all Calumny; swore with Tears
+in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in
+Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his
+Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope
+should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing
+an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty
+_Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: 'Your Holiness
+being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give
+Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, 'tis thought
+proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o'Clock, the
+Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an
+Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to
+the Cardinal's Apartment, and peep thro' the Key-hole.' The Pope did not
+fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected,
+the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at
+Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he
+kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty
+Cardinal in this Posture, cry'd out to somebody that was with him, _Do but
+see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light!
+Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the
+Cardinal's Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have
+accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to
+think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the
+Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the
+Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a
+Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of
+Hypocrites. But, to the Pope's Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_
+was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him
+being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they
+were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal
+_Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the
+Hands of the_ Turks.
+
+This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave
+away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold
+all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of
+Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been
+told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from
+the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them
+offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred.
+Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the
+golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, 'I am
+sorry I can't let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but
+here's one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not
+wrong them.' Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the
+Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope.
+They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at
+their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit.
+
+At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having
+complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great
+many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor?
+Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State
+Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he
+said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have
+any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put
+them back, tho' perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long
+expired.
+
+This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst
+of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in
+the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry,
+would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him
+rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as 'twas possible for any mean
+Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day
+in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any
+Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the
+_Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher'd, and without any
+Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he
+happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his
+Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So
+much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have
+been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now
+return to the _Vatican_.
+
+This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of
+ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent
+_Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought
+proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but,
+Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are
+the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in
+it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are
+also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V.
+deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that
+they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the
+Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St.
+_Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard,
+to denote that God had stay'd the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of
+St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME,
+carried in Procession to St. _Peter_'s Church two Images of the Virgin,
+the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_,
+the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church
+of St. _Mary in Compitello_.
+
+From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace
+of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other.
+_Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes
+have carried it on. 'Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none
+of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed
+is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_
+V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all
+contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here
+are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This
+vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle,
+encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross
+Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the
+Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main
+Building there's a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant
+_Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an
+admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they
+are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of
+this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being
+rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold
+Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the
+reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other
+in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope's Apartments there's one of the
+most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far
+into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in
+_Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here
+rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much
+admir'd by the _Italians_, who never travell'd out of their Country, where
+Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_,
+who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this
+Country with very great Indifference.
+
+The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a
+Traveller's Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII.
+The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn'd on both
+Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are
+plac'd, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At
+the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing
+_Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the
+Victory gain'd over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is
+form'd by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc'd
+Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there's an _Equestrian_
+Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the
+most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the
+Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer'd some Years ago
+to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou'd be put into the Horse's
+Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it
+is at present. 'Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable
+Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all
+Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the
+Direction of _Michael Angelo_.
+
+In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two
+others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer'd.
+There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of
+the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there's a stately
+Fountain adorn'd with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals,
+representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the
+Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of
+excellent Sculpture.
+
+The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings,
+particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the
+Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by
+_Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by
+_Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus
+Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in
+short, which I don't mention, as being of less Value, and which are not
+much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou'd
+pass with us for Master-pieces.
+
+Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call'd _Campo-vaccino_, I
+cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to
+particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the
+admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold
+without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou'd have the
+same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to
+see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the
+ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much
+Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury'd; beyond
+that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the
+immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of
+_Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain
+Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Divae Faustinae_; on your Right-hand the
+melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the
+eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was
+built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having
+reconcil'd the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. 'Twas in this Temple,
+according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of
+the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the
+Mistress of the Universe, as wou'd put you in mind of the Instability of
+this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou'd you say, if you shou'd
+go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of
+all Things, had spar'd, but was destroy'd by Men, and such too as were
+most concern'd in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was
+beautiful? And what wou'd you think, if you saw there was scarce enough
+remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once?
+'Twas _Vespasian_ that caus'd it to be built after the Model which was
+intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and 'tis built
+of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena
+is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the
+highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for
+the common People. They say it contain'd eighty-five thousand Spectators.
+It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great
+Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter'd five
+thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and
+_Urban_ VIII. caus'd the _Coliseum_ to be demolish'd, and made use of the
+Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.
+
+Having entertain'd you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now
+take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you
+into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general.
+I don't deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere;
+but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so
+much Notice as is taken of 'em. Methinks, 'tis with the Buildings of ROME,
+as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish'd, we are
+apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou'd censure. A great
+many Palaces are admir'd here, barely from the Prepossession that
+Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was
+true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an
+_Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but 'tis not so
+now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their
+Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in
+_France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the
+Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments
+of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which
+have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms
+have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is
+the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix'd where
+they shou'd be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and
+Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or
+six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving
+Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not
+look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As
+to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of
+Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho'
+there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work'd, that
+the Gilding employ'd on them serves only the more to expose their
+Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either
+of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn'd
+with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which
+are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six
+Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some
+Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in
+such sorry old-fashion'd Frames, that they disparage them. They have but
+few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal
+Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are
+beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou'd be
+better pleas'd to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I
+don't think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here
+is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a
+long while in their Graves; and there's no House furnish'd in the modern
+Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_
+and _Carolis_.
+
+'Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here
+the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME;
+_Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building
+were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of
+_Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of
+Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This
+Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn'd
+with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up
+fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of
+oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to
+this Palace is through a great Court, adorn'd within by _Doric_ Pillars;
+and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by
+Arches, with great Galleries well cover'd over, where we see the famous
+Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation
+of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there
+is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble,
+all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten'd to a Bull,
+by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of
+_Boeotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had
+divorc'd, because she had suffer'd herself to be debauch'd by _Jupiter_ in
+the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie
+_Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she
+was dragg'd about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess,
+turn'd her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_
+to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under
+Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor,
+from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that
+it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been
+plac'd there.
+
+The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn'd with several
+fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History
+of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass'd the _Scheld_, who is represented as
+crown'd by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain'd to his Feet.
+There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches,
+and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by
+_Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and
+_Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the
+memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference
+with that Pope's _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many
+fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest
+Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout
+by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very
+great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In
+fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that
+the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all
+taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. 'Tis
+pity that 'tis not finish'd, for in Truth it wou'd be a fine Piece of
+Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_'s _Miracles_,
+which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for
+their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate,
+and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their
+Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of
+their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don't live to finish;
+and 'tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles,
+either because they don't care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left
+them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the
+Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good
+for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a
+mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the
+Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that
+they are swallow'd up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the
+Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to
+decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch'd off on
+sudden by Winter.
+
+_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind
+the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden
+of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River,
+in the Quarter call'd _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the
+Duke of _Parma_ wou'd have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in
+his own Capital.
+
+The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is
+larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The
+Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms
+a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great
+Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_,
+who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of
+Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection.
+The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really
+contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give
+you all the Particulars, I shou'd never have done. That which very much
+disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might
+easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses
+which belong to it.
+
+The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the
+Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now
+actually carrying up, is finish'd. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner
+of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the
+richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who
+died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in
+Specie. The Prince is a very good [OE]conomist, has no Children, and being
+not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife,
+his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_
+Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted;
+and though they have been as often reconcil'd, either by their Kindred, or
+by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been
+assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are
+asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender
+Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as
+bad.
+
+'Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts
+(which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_
+XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended
+they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in
+Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe
+it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But,
+'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the
+Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I
+shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his
+Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.
+
+If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will
+be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady
+who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes
+to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in
+better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME,
+and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to
+many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same
+Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is
+extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of
+this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the
+Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand
+of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the
+Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece,
+and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for
+presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of
+_Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable
+and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The
+present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the
+finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and
+live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis
+what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most
+magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had
+another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being
+oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you
+the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all
+richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an
+extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that
+are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all
+_Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which
+support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon,
+which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete
+Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six
+Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The
+Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory
+gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the
+Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands,
+and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn
+the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing
+more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never
+saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and
+Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting
+the Hackney to the Pope.
+
+This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on
+St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it
+was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the
+Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the
+Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs,
+and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach.
+When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession
+Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which
+were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's
+grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set
+out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They
+were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse
+and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the
+Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an
+Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March;
+then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The
+Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their
+Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is
+a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with
+the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on
+the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the
+Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the
+Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney,
+came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by
+thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own
+Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_,
+the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left.
+The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and
+riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the
+Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses.
+When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who
+was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador
+kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of
+the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his
+Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which
+his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of
+_Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which
+the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the
+Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor
+and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August
+Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all
+his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the
+Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all
+the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was
+present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical
+Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the
+Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_.
+The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's
+Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief
+Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the
+Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any
+Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of
+the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which
+were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the
+Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white
+Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the
+Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine
+Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a
+manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the
+Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the
+principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was
+illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as
+they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the
+Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by
+assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                         _Rome, Dec. 5, 1730._
+
+Tho' I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can't
+forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince _Borghese_.
+There's an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an
+elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above
+the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form
+Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The
+Summer Apartment, which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a
+Monarch. 'Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the
+Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of
+Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of
+Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this
+Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of _Paul_ V. who was of the
+_Borghese_ Family, and tho' no more than an Advocate at first, rais'd his
+Family from the mean State it was in at _Sienna_.
+
+The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen
+thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a
+Bankrupt. There is not a Family in ROME for which St. _Peter_ has done
+more than this. The Prince's Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a
+stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there's a
+second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the
+Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most
+populous in ROME, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent
+Country Houses, particularly that of _Mondragone_, near _Frescati_, built
+by Pope _Paul_ V. and the Garden near the Gate _Pinciano_, made by
+Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_, one of that Pope's Nephews. Before the Art of
+Gardening was introduc'd into _Germany_ and _France_, the Gardens of
+_Italy_ were reckon'd the finest in the World; but now-a-days 'tis
+otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ'd before) a Man is an
+_Italian_, and never pass'd the _Alps_, he will look with Contempt upon
+all the Gardens which the _Romans_ call _wonderful_, _charming_, and
+_astonishing_. Nevertheless, I wou'd not have you think that I find no
+Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their
+Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels, of which the Walks are form'd, tho'
+they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz'd at the Magnificence of those
+who made those Gardens, and am pleas'd to find by what they have done,
+that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come
+short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to
+see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer
+them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the
+Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of _Paul_ V.
+and Cardinal _Scipio_, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince _Borghese_ are
+kept in better Order than those of the other _Roman_ Nobility; yet for all
+this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm'd, as the Gardens of
+_France_, _Holland_, and the _Ultramontane_ Countries.
+
+_Mondragone_ stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. 'Tis a large
+Building, after the Model of the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Apartments
+are spacious, but very sorrily furnish'd. The House at the Vineyard
+_Pinciano_ is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with
+which 'tis adorn'd. 'Tis almost intirely cover'd on the Outside with
+stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, 'tis a Pleasure to
+see _Curtius_ on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the
+Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of
+_Belisarius_, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made,
+that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho' very ill furnish'd, are
+adorn'd with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou'd admire
+_David_ holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior _Bernini_; the Groupe
+representing _Daphne_ beginning to be metamorphos'd into a Laurel, at the
+Nick of Time when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient
+Statue of _Seneca_ expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble,
+representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or
+Vessel of _African_ Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the
+_Gladiator_ in a fighting Posture, the Work of _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_,
+as the _Greek_ Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue;
+and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of
+curious Workmanship. 'Tis said that this Statue was discover'd under the
+Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of _Victoria_, at the
+Time that Cardinal _Scipio Borghese_ caus'd it to be erected; and really
+'tis so curious a Piece, that it wou'd have been pity it had not been
+found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other
+Statues of the Prince _Borghese_, I shou'd never have done; for no King in
+the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of
+a Treasure that is inestimable.
+
+I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings
+and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner _Clement_ XII. has
+taken Possession of the Church of St. _John de Lateran_. This Ceremony was
+perform'd on _Sunday_ the 19th of _November_ last. The Pope went in the
+Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_ to that of
+the _Vatican_. At half an Hour past eighteen o'Clock, as they call it
+here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the
+Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the
+Way, follow'd by several close Carriages cover'd with Tapestry embroider'd
+with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong'd: Then came the
+Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were
+follow'd by their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of
+_Bologna_, and the _Roman_ Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress'd
+in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope's Equerries in red Robes, his
+Holiness's Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge,
+went before two Portmanteaus trimm'd with red Velvet lac'd with Gold,
+which were carry'd on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms
+in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute
+for _Naples_. The Pope's Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace
+and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover'd with red Velvet trimm'd with
+Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope's Stables follow'd by two Prickers. At
+some Distance from thence came the _Roman_ Nobility, walking without
+Distinction of Rank, all dress'd in black Coats and Mantles, with great
+Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope's Mace-bearers, in
+long-sleev'd purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of
+solid Silver, and follow'd by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of
+red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen
+Quarters, or Wards of the City of ROME. Four of the Pope's Trumpeters
+dress'd in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in
+red Robes. The Valets _de Chambre_ call'd _Camerieri extra muros_. The
+Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial
+Advocates dress'd in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes.
+The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple
+Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that
+are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in
+Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were
+follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the
+Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the
+Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin
+Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then
+came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del
+Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding
+the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd
+towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands.
+Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with
+red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules.
+Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many
+red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver
+Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompass'd the Litter, as did
+the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths
+trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the
+hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuirass of Iron, and his
+Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with
+Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white
+Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd
+with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a
+Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came
+the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At
+some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were
+dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes,
+with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a
+Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops,
+assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber,
+the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic
+Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was
+clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the
+Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of
+the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts
+of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats
+great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and
+Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not
+of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were
+adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms
+they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue
+Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_.
+
+All this Cavalcade pass'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung
+with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis
+_Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the
+Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope
+answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train
+pass'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which
+the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect
+every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.
+From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable
+Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who
+had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
+
+When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St.
+_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of
+the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and
+being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to
+the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope
+being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on
+the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the
+Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and
+presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other
+of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the
+Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from
+his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal
+Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler
+to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled
+the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and
+was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of
+the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the
+Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a
+Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he
+receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other
+Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being
+assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre,
+and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended
+from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to
+the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the
+Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the
+great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of
+ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to
+all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among
+the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was
+carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals
+_Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of
+_Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.
+
+This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more
+magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than
+they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of
+Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS
+CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple,
+mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the
+Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not
+to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at
+all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either
+in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this
+Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers
+Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_
+upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
+
+The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but
+as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen
+for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of
+the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals
+of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_
+Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour
+getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals;
+if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But
+at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from
+me again before Lent. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, March 10, 1731_
+
+I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it
+sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate
+for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score
+from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is
+the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of
+obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all
+Countries, and all Courts are alike.
+
+Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who
+officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then
+indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order'd me to
+be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according
+to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair,
+ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red
+Velvet. As I enter'd the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which
+I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach'd
+him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel'd again, and
+receiv'd the Pope's Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming
+up close to the Pope, I kneel'd again, and receiv'd a third Blessing, all
+which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they
+consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one
+Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask'd me many Questions,
+and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was
+extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so
+long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the
+Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope's Countenance change; his Smiles
+were turn'd into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather
+have my Room than my Company. But being appriz'd beforehand, that his
+Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without
+omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber,
+I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at
+Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all
+that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon;
+for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun'd, and therefore I will
+gratify him in his own Way.
+
+Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than
+I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the
+Pope's Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago,
+went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv'd in the same manner
+as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in
+the Antichamber, and without being oblig'd to leave his Sword and Hat, as
+those of his Retinue were, he was introduc'd by the _Major Domo_ to the
+Pope, who receiv'd him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as
+he enter'd, nor did the Pope, who ask'd him several Questions, and was
+inform'd that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he
+withdrew, the Prince desir'd the Pope, that he would give him leave to
+introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the
+last Degree, neither kneel'd, nor kiss'd the Pope's Foot. At _Geneva_
+indeed he deserv'd to have his Statue erected, tho' here his Politeness
+was call'd in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was
+charm'd with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five
+Months here, and liv'd handsomely. He apply'd himself to the Knowledge of
+Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho' not so
+large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover'd a very
+great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_
+if all its Princes were like him.
+
+The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those
+unfortunate Princes who are here call'd the King and Queen of _England_.
+Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot
+they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body
+can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the
+Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him
+easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis
+_Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that
+are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court,
+since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord
+_Inverness_, retir'd to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the
+Education of the young Princes, who are here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_,
+and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall
+see.
+
+The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style
+of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never
+goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the
+Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the
+Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When
+the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool;
+but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to
+do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem'd to be more embroil'd with
+the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go
+to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict
+Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_.
+When the eldest Prince, who is here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, goes to
+wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has
+a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.
+As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet
+settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.
+
+_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I
+may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is
+prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II.
+his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far
+from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would
+indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch'd by the
+Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_,
+_alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If
+one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely
+attach'd to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a
+Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be
+educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister
+preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is
+extremely reserv'd at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but
+it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very
+courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table,
+and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.
+
+His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what
+is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are
+seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits
+himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his
+Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His
+Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally
+upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he
+rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon,
+when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours
+at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes
+to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without
+ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at
+Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his
+Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to
+Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every
+Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the
+Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.
+
+The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen;
+and tho' not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is
+infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish'd
+Lady, and never was there a better natur'd Person with more Humility; she
+is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in
+Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of
+ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good,
+and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho' she is heartily
+attach'd to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ
+from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and
+good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it
+her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed,
+Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a
+Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory,
+and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_
+so well, that 'tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is
+most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I
+had the Honour to approach, I don't know one more deserving of the
+Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that
+Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so
+strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her
+wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.
+
+You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by
+consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and
+Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of
+_Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at
+_Inspruck_, when she pass'd that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the
+Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her
+Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.
+_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could
+procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany'd by
+Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who
+carry'd his Wife with him. They arriv'd accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a
+great Retinue, and there they pass'd for People of Consequence: They
+contriv'd so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to
+give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was
+repair'd: They introduc'd themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a
+Nun whom they brib'd to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix'd on
+the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was
+Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess's Stature to pass
+thro' the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner's Bed, who
+for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl's
+Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass'd thro' her
+Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the
+Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to
+apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow'd a
+great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen'd to step into a
+Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig'd to
+leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From
+thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet
+and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr.
+_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the
+Coach, and _Misset_ stay'd two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether
+any Discovery was made of the Princess's Flight. The Silence of the Guard
+was such, that he believ'd they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he
+rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to
+watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for
+early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and
+the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the
+great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend
+the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he
+travell'd a little way with him, and resolv'd either to make him drunk, or
+to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a
+certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their
+Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the
+Messenger; and when he found him doz'd, he took away his Dispatches, and
+went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three
+Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy
+See.
+
+Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a
+Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony
+was accordingly perform'd there without much Pomp, and the Princess set
+out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany'd by all the
+_English_ of both Sexes that were at ROME of the Pretender's Party, went
+in that Prince's Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the
+_Roman_ Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus
+did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv'd
+with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join'd by
+her Husband[5].
+
+While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you
+of a certain Prophecy in every body's Mouth here, which was said to be
+found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734,
+the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of
+_Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this
+as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:
+
+      Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,
+      Et Antonius Veni Creator,
+      Et Joannes Baptista caenabit,
+      Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III.
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      _When Easter falls on St. Mark's Day,
+      And Whitsunday on St. Antony's of Padua,
+      And when St. John the Baptist's is a Sacrament Day,
+      Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._
+
+Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was
+to me very tiresom, tho' it lasted here, according to an establish'd
+Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o'Clock in the
+Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on
+Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things,
+and the latter throw Meslin in one another's Eyes by Handfuls; but the
+best on't is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body
+is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even
+in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make
+them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in
+open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn'd with Plumes of
+Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the
+Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del
+Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of
+Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer'd to run loose
+without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the
+_Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro' the Shouts and Cries of
+the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the
+Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for
+his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at
+Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the
+Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World.
+
+But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where
+to be parallell'd for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now
+be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb'd this Winter for the Hire of the
+Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus'd it to be
+furnish'd by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix'd for the Ball, they
+invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of
+appearing there mask'd, provided they made themselves known at the Door:
+All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several
+Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design'd
+for the principal Nobility was encompass'd with Forms, and the Place for
+the Dancers was an oval Nook rail'd in. A Gentleman of the Company that
+gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title
+of Master of the Hall, and 'twas he that call'd out the Dancers. All the
+Ladies were mask'd at this Ball, which was call'd a Feast, but I know not
+why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.
+The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have
+been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir'd, and in
+such Danger of being press'd to Death, that I don't care to go again; for
+which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste.
+
+Neither am I very well reconcil'd to their Plays, of which indeed here are
+none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two
+Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there's
+but one that's good for any thing, and that's the Ladies Theatre, commonly
+call'd the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because 'twas built by Order of one Count
+_Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in
+it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room
+look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage
+is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don't shift the
+Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the
+whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the
+three principal Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are
+horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most
+part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can't imagine any
+thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a
+ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here,
+that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that
+the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_.
+There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures,
+who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho' they have neither
+Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best
+Actresses are elsewhere. Tho' I am passionately fond of the _Italian_
+Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see
+those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such
+Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no
+Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an
+Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very
+scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that
+have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the
+Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; _viz.
+Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison'd at _Naples_; but there are
+still remaining M. _Hass_, commonly call'd the _Saxon_, and _Signior
+Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous
+_Signiora Faustina_.
+
+While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to
+omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform'd on the
+four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being
+then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring.
+The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses
+are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a
+Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which
+sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while
+the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a
+thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the
+Square, bawl'd out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho' very
+few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and 'twas not his
+Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces
+from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions
+of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit
+had.
+
+Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never
+pass'd the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell
+you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_
+don't know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where
+reigns the greatest Freedom, there's always an Air of Constraint, which
+one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them,
+insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget
+Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know
+how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be
+acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats,
+where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where
+they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and
+I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not
+the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don't set it off
+to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to
+me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their
+Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for
+us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of
+Cookery.
+
+I know not whether 'tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of
+Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or
+Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more
+melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in
+particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of
+Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself,
+that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can't be of that
+Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so
+contrary to ours. At my Age, 'tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste
+and Fashion of Living: Those of ROME don't agree with me, and I foresee
+they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I
+promise you, I'll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my
+Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.
+
+The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they
+do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of
+which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return
+home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After
+their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and
+after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they
+dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from
+thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there's a Walk, which is very sorrily pav'd,
+between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there's no Air, but Dust
+enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_
+repairs to the Square, or Place _d'Espagne_, where I think I have already
+told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their
+Visits of Ceremony: At Two o'Clock at Night, which in the long Days in
+Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _Assemblies_. These may be
+divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private
+Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only
+converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the
+Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of
+all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.
+
+The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of
+Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope's Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the
+Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there
+is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain'd. The
+Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all
+the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand
+Assembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the
+most part well-dress'd, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbes,
+lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and
+salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except
+Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises;
+and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which
+she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak
+this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they
+don't care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I
+travell'd hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_
+Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer'd
+me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+
+Language_. She then turn'd about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking
+Abbe come in, who talk'd with her in private all the Evening, and probably
+in such a Language as she understood.
+
+After the Levee they fall to play, but 'tis at such Games as we
+_Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_,
+_Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take
+it to be like the Languages, which 'tis difficult to be Master of, unless
+People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man's
+whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with
+99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes,
+Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.
+During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all
+Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the
+Money for the Cards.
+
+The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have
+not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a
+Dozen _Petits-colets_, who really are the _Petits-Maitres_ of this Place,
+supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these
+Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abbe to put in a Word, because
+they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of
+Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. 'Tis
+true, that the Abbe wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and
+as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so
+that when you see a _Petit-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you
+must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even
+Clergymen.
+
+The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at
+the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure
+and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the
+Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter
+a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles,
+so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where
+to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles
+are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion'd Stands of
+the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts
+with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if
+those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but
+whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill
+Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so
+that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse
+with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a
+black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every
+time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been
+congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring
+Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the
+two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes
+the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you
+that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.
+Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises
+his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to
+what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary
+Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or
+Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And
+after having thoroughly canvass'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight,
+all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.
+
+Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes
+his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman
+indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion
+of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture,
+and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has
+digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing
+more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.
+There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of
+the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers
+in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.
+All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon
+Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are
+Masters of it in its Purity.
+
+A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the
+good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say
+it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony,
+because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there's scarce one of them
+in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this,
+one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave
+at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they
+then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a
+Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in
+their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that
+puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in
+_France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho' an _Italian_, was in the _French_
+Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told
+me one Day that he observ'd I follow'd the _French_ Fashion strictly: I
+ask'd him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day.
+Nevertheless I wou'd not have you think that this Slovenliness is general;
+for there are People as much perfum'd here as elsewhere; and you may take
+my Word for it, that a _Petit-Maitre_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the
+pertest _French Petit-Maitre_. Indeed they are more rare here than
+elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before
+they are twenty Years of Age.
+
+But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you
+ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains
+have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all
+Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest
+_Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the
+same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth,
+where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus'd
+of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there's no Nation where
+the Ladies have more Freedom than here. 'Tis possible that some of the
+Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as
+to the People of Quality, I don't think them any more liable to that
+Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou'd say as much in their
+Vindication as to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the
+Fact is too well known, and 'tis the original Sin of almost all the
+_Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest;
+and 'tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as
+they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other
+Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort
+drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus'd also of
+being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry'd out
+against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some
+that have receiv'd Affronts, so good-natur'd as to forget them. 'Tis true,
+that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is
+owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder
+for the first Time is condemn'd to the Gallies; tho' in some Cases indeed
+he is only banish'd from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then,
+after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME.
+They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally
+compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.
+If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches
+were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou'd have more Crimes perhaps
+committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and
+done, we don't hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of
+Robberies; and tho' there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls
+here in the Night, I shou'd make no Scruple to go from one End of the City
+to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou'd be most afraid of
+wou'd be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind
+are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among
+Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such
+an Accident to any Person of Note.
+
+I happen'd not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my
+Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven
+o'Clock, 'twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People
+stirring in the Streets. I pass'd thro' the Street _del Corso_, and just
+as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal
+_Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance
+behind the other: As the former brush'd close by me, I heard a Pistol go
+off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from
+the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming;
+but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went
+very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after;
+at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50
+Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But 'tis
+really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the
+Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou'd serve as a Place of Retreat for
+a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour's Blood. This is an
+Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient
+Privileges. In the last Pope's Time, _Alberoni_ propos'd to the other
+Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the
+Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he
+said with Indignation, 'Since 'tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain
+wou'd take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge
+to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
+Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to
+Justice, I wou'd do all in my Power to promote his Escape.' 'Tis said,
+that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard
+to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture
+at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges
+of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People,
+and the Homage of the Mob.
+
+Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so
+establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better
+serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this
+Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims
+is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it
+almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days,
+and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of
+the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and
+the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.
+
+Divine Service is perform'd with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but
+particularly in the Pope's Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all
+the Ceremonies therein observ'd, it wou'd take me up another Day. I will,
+in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy
+Week, which, tho' I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better
+enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, June 15, 1731._
+
+Tho' the first Promotion of Cardinals by _Clement_ XII. was made the Close
+of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with,
+that I deferr'd giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This
+Promotion was made in Favour of three _Nuncios_, (who, by the way, never
+quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean
+the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_, and _Spain_, and Signior _Ruspoli_,
+the Pope's Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. his Father having obtain'd it for him of
+Cardinal _Coscia_, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being
+appriz'd of the Bargain, which his Father had made with _Coscia_, he went
+to _Corsini_, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father's Friend
+and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass'd betwixt his Father and
+_Coscia_, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou'd
+never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope's mere Good-will.
+Cardinal _Corsini_ being charm'd with the generous Temper of young
+_Ruspoli_, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in
+St. _Peter_'s Throne, he has preferr'd _Ruspoli_ over the Heads of many
+Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.
+
+This Promotion was made at _Monte-Cavallo_. The Pope had declar'd in a
+private Consistory, that he was resolv'd to make five Cardinals, _viz._
+the three _Nuncios_ above-mention'd, Signior _Ruspoli_, and a Fifth, whom
+he reserv'd in _Petto_. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a
+Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch'd Couriers to the _Nuncios_ to carry
+them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint _Ruspoli_
+of what had pass'd. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the
+Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the
+Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank'd him for the Favour he had just done
+him, and then return'd to his Palace, where he receiv'd the Compliments of
+all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior
+_Neri Corsini_, _Clement_ XIIth's Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had
+reserv'd in _Petto_. On the _Thursday_ following there was a public
+Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according
+to the Ceremonial, been oblig'd to keep his Chamber, and to be dress'd in
+Purple, receiv'd the Hat from the Pope's own Hand. His Eminency repair'd
+in the Morning to the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_, while the Cardinals were
+assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join'd in the Chapel by
+these Cardinals, _viz. Barberini_, who represented the Dean of the Sacred
+College; _Ottoboni_, the Great Chancellor; _Albano_, the Chamberlain; and
+_Cienfuegos_, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great
+Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the
+usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return'd from thence into the
+Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel,
+with his _Caudataire_, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies.
+During this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by
+kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As
+he enter'd within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated
+at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle
+of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on
+his Knees, and kiss'd both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who
+rais'd him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went
+afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their
+Seniority, and then return'd and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A
+Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on
+his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies.
+The new Cardinal now kiss'd the Holy Father's Foot and Hand a second Time;
+and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither
+_Ruspoli_ followed him, and after having thank'd him for the Honour he had
+done him, went and rejoin'd the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory.
+This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope's Music playing before
+them, to the Chapel, where _Te Deum_ was sung; after which the Cardinals
+went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call'd the _Royal
+Hall_. There they form'd a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank'd his
+Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a
+Brother, and then they all retir'd. When _Ruspoli_ came home, he there
+found a Gentleman of the Pope's Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat,
+which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When
+Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair'd with a great Train to St.
+_Peter_'s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the
+Pretender to the Crown of _England_, and to the Princess his Wife; he also
+made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited
+the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.
+
+A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which
+he both shut and open'd the Mouth of Cardinal _Ruspoli_. At the former
+Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father's Feet, his Holiness
+laid two Fingers on the Cardinal's Mouth, and strictly injoin'd him not so
+reveal to any body what shou'd pass in the Consistories at which he shou'd
+be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv'd the Cardinals
+of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter'd the
+Conclave before the Pope had open'd their Mouths; which might sometimes be
+the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days
+between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But
+_Pius_ V. declar'd by a Bull which he publish'd the 26th of _January_
+1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou'd not
+exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.
+
+Cardinal _Ruspoli_ being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took
+his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc'd
+the Words _extra omnes_, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies,
+and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory
+was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter'd
+the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope's
+Feet, who open'd his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and
+Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to
+bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring
+adorn'd with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a
+Custom establish'd by _Gregory_ XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold
+to the College _de propaganda fide_. With that the Ceremony ended. In the
+Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign
+Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were
+illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.
+
+There are, as I have observ'd, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public,
+the other Secret, and they are both notify'd to the Cardinals by two of
+the Pope's Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father
+himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels
+to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They
+wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the
+Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, _Eminentissime Domine, Crastina
+Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum_, or,
+_fiat Processio._ They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not
+let them wait a Moment; but are oblig'd to admit them, in what Plight
+soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their
+Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find
+a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal
+chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.
+
+This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope's Council of State, wherein
+he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs
+of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to
+each Cardinal, the Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the
+Palls conferr'd upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of
+in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin'd, as is, in short,
+every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in
+Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call'd the Secret
+Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors
+that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new
+Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as
+he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In
+this Public Consistory, the Pope's Throne is rais'd much higher than
+ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers
+plac'd at their Feet. The Constable _Colonna_, in Quality of first Prince
+of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour
+that he yields to none but the Pope's Nephews. The Ambassador of
+_Bologna_, and the Conservators of ROME, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are
+plac'd on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope's great
+Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right,
+the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.
+
+When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in _Petto_, tho' he names him
+not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all
+those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the
+Pope dies ere he has declar'd him in Public, 'tis sufficient if the Holy
+Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he
+declar'd a Cardinal in _Petto_, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest
+that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had
+nominated in _Petto_.
+
+The Dignity of a Cardinal is look'd upon here as the greatest Thing in the
+World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates
+of this Court don't form to obtain it; and a Family at ROME never thinks
+its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so
+true, that one of the first Princes in ROME, who did not want a Hat in his
+Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the
+Pontificate of _Benedict_ XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal
+_Coscia_, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But 'tis mere Ambition
+only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those
+purple Gentry lead, is, as 'tis here said, the most melancholy in the
+World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are
+continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig'd almost every Day to
+be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and
+receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the
+taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds
+his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. 'Tis
+true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify
+such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational
+Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is
+but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their
+Grandeur is a Burden.
+
+When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call'd _in
+Fiochi_, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes
+foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an
+Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho' they are Princes, must
+stop for him; and when two Cardinals meet one another riding out after
+this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment
+each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus
+ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress'd in long Robes of Scarlet,
+except in Time of _Lent_, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is
+that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and 'tis in this Habit
+they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the
+Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person
+has been once introduc'd to them, is to attend in their Train, when they
+go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal,
+when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most
+honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a
+Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.
+
+As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of
+the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can't see wherein it
+consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics
+are generally a _Maitre de Chambre_, an Officer who they say is tantamount
+to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one
+or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many _Valets de Chambre_; eight
+or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their
+Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they
+commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the
+Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat
+alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and
+of these, not one does it at present, but the Cardinal _de Polignac_, the
+Minister[7] of _France_: For the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, the Emperor's
+Ambassador, has retrench'd his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has
+the Cardinal[8] _Bentivoglio_, on account of his Infirmities.
+
+I can't help thinking there's much more Reason to exclaim against the
+ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown'd Heads,
+and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho' a Cardinal is often but an ordinary
+Man at first, only rais'd to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of
+the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last
+Pontificate, the Cardinals _Fini_ and _Coscia_. That such Cardinals shou'd
+presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of _Bavaria_, or of
+_Cologne_, of a Duke of _Lorain_, and in short, of every Prince
+whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College,
+I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv'd such a
+high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of
+the Princes of _Italy_, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a
+Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency
+in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of _Italy_. Our Princes on the
+other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much
+devoted to the Holy See, as the _Italian_ Princes are; yet they don't pay
+this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We
+have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there
+are very few of 'em that wou'd refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of
+the Empire.
+
+When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the
+Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience,
+where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after
+having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal
+that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When
+the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a
+Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one
+another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there's a great
+Air of Constraint.
+
+The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope's
+Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are
+distinguish'd into three Orders, _viz._ Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty
+Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix'd by Pope _Sixtus_ the
+Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl'd Dean of the Sacred College. He
+that is so now is Cardinal _Pignatelli_, Archbishop of _Naples_. This
+Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl'd
+_Chiefs of the Order_; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving
+Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical
+State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. _Innocent_ the IVth, while the
+Council was held at _Lyons_, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou'd be
+red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the
+Liberties of the Church. _Boniface_ the VIIIth order'd that they shou'd
+wear scarlet Robes. _Paul_ III. requir'd that their Bonnets shou'd be of
+the same Colour; and _Urban_ the VIIIth granted them the Title of
+Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors
+of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of _Malta_. The Council of _Trent_
+own'd it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of
+Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the
+Kindred of the reigning Pope, the _Nuncios_ in _Germany_, _France_ and
+_Spain_, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine,
+many of the Pope's Great Officers.
+
+There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat.
+The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal _Ardicinio_; but Pope
+_Innocent_ VIII. refus'd to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the
+Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be
+depriv'd of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal _Borgia_
+resign'd his Dignity to _Alexander_ VI. The Cardinal _Henry_ of _Portugal_
+quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King
+_Don Sebastian_. After him, _Ferdinand de Medicis_, upon the Death of his
+Brother _Francis de Medicis_, without Issue Male, preferr'd the
+Sovereignty of _Tuscany_ to the red Hat, which he restor'd to Pope
+_Sixtus_ V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr'd
+an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly
+Cardinal _Maurice_ of _Savoy_, _Ferdinand_ and _Vincent Gonzague_,
+_Francis_ of _Lorain_, _Camillus Pamphili_, _John Casimir_ of _Poland_;
+and _Gabriel Filippuci_ of _Macerata_, so lately as in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the
+Pope's Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it
+must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs
+wou'd be oblig'd to pay, if he was dead.
+
+There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly
+honour one or other of the Pope's Family with it who advanc'd them to the
+Purple; which is what they here call _Restitution_; and when they omit
+this Piece of Respect, they are accus'd of Ingratitude. _Clement_ XII. has
+not yet made this _Restitution_ to the _Albano_[10] Family, tho' he has
+promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer
+that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which
+he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the _Albani_,
+because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them,
+that he wou'd take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The
+_Albani_ were oblig'd to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not
+give them much for the Hat they are like to have of _Clement_ XII. for you
+are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is
+afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat
+vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion,
+and then to satisfy the _Albani_.
+
+The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they
+deny it. Be this as it will, there's hardly an Instance that the Popes
+ever exercis'd this Act of Authority. _Clement_ XI. had an Intention
+indeed to haue depriv'd Cardinal _Alberoni_ of his Hat, because when the
+Cardinal was the Minister of _Spain_, he employ'd that Money against the
+Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the
+War against the _Turks_. But _Clement_ XI. met with so much Opposition
+from the Sacred College, that he cou'd not accomplish it, and died.
+Whether _Clement_ XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be
+able to deprive _Coscia_ of his Hat, which is what he seems to be very
+much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great
+many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal _Coscia_ is of the
+Purple, are not willing that he shou'd serve as an Example for the future.
+The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho' it
+has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc'd. Cardinal
+_Coscia_ is retir'd to _Naples_. He has been very much blam'd for quitting
+ROME, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur'd me that
+he might have stay'd here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been
+the unfortunate Cardinal _Coscia_, I wou'd have retir'd, but not in the
+Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that
+he is now, they shou'd cite me long enough before I wou'd be seen at ROME;
+and I think, whoever advis'd him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11].
+
+You know that immediately after the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. the
+Populace ran to _Coscia_'s Palace, plunder'd it, and wou'd have torn the
+Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap'd by a Back-door; after
+which, he disguis'd himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come
+back again, or else he shou'd have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues,
+whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his
+Archbishoprick of _Benevento_, after the Election of the new Pope; but he
+did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and
+afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten'd him with
+the Castle of _St. Angelo_; whereupon he was frighten'd, and march'd out
+of the Country; which is charg'd upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. of the _Pamphili_ Family, publish'd the 19th of _February_,
+1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the
+Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the
+Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon'd three times in the Space of
+fifteen Months, _viz._ once at the End of each six Months, and the last
+Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the
+Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv'd of
+the Hat. _Coscia_ has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem
+inclin'd to return, tho' his Acquaintance don't stick to affirm that he
+will. Mean time, he has been depriv'd of the Archbishoprick of
+_Benevento_, which the Pope has conferr'd on[12] M. _Doria_, the first
+Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal _Coscia_
+complain'd of it bitterly, tho' to no manner of Purpose. I question
+whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho' the Pope were
+to give him his Passport: And really, what happen'd to M. _Targa_, his
+Brother, is enough to deter him; for this _Prelate_ coming to _Venice_,
+after he had been at _Vienna_, soliciting the Emperor's Protection for
+himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order'd him to return to ROME;
+which, after having desir'd, and obtain'd Promise of a Safeguard for his
+Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two
+Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not
+to stir out of it without his Leave. _Targa_ yields Obedience, and the
+Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all
+this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry'd him off to the
+Castle of _St. Angelo_; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope
+intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin'd, and can speak
+to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his
+Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the
+Holy See, we hear of nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men,
+or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others
+suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior _Sardini_, who was
+impeach'd of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King
+of _Sardinia_, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination
+to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was
+arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of
+_St. Angelo_, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days
+before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz'd, which he desir'd to
+have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus'd. Some
+Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify
+himself, if he cou'd; to which _Sardini_ made Answer, That he had nothing
+to say; that the Pope shou'd be his Judge, and Cardinal _Corsini_, his
+Holiness's Nephew, shou'd be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in
+no stead; he is still in Prison, and 'tis said, that the Pope will either
+behead or pardon him.
+
+Some time ago Cardinal _Ottoboni_ made Interest for one _Nocera_, a Canon,
+who was in Trouble also upon _Sardini_'s Account; and he desir'd the Pope
+that he wou'd please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person
+of _Nocera_, who was retir'd to a Sanctuary at _Albano_. The Pope made
+Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he cou'd not grant him his
+Request; but that he wou'd not charge his Conference with the Sin of
+having suffer'd Iniquity to pass with Impunity. 'We are old, _said the
+Holy Father_; and our Age tells us, that it can't be long before we shall
+appear at God's Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that
+we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if
+we don't let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether
+we shall live till To-morrow?' 'Your Holiness, _reply'd the Cardinal_,
+ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great
+Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the
+other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of
+Justice, and 'tis to be hop'd, that he will also permit you to run that of
+Mercy.'
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had
+from Cardinal _Imperiali_, who has had the Purple so long, that he is
+actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of
+_Innocent_ X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the
+Ecclesiastical State without the Pope's Leave, he told me, That _Innocent_
+X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal _Astalli_,
+his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to
+all the Rout was this: After the _Portuguese_ had shook off the Yoke of
+the _Spaniards_, and restor'd the _Braganza_ Family to the Throne, the
+King of _Spain_, who always took the Title of King of _Portugal_,
+pretended that 'twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and
+Benefices that became vacant in _Portugal_. The Pope was at that time in
+so much Subjection to the _Spaniards_, that this Plea of their Monarch
+perplex'd him sadly. At last he thought of extricating himself out of
+this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the
+_Portuguese_ Bishopricks, and he resolv'd to assemble one with all Speed
+for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal
+Secretary of State, and the Cardinal _Astalli_, whom he injoin'd not to
+speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be
+summon'd for the next Day, the Ambassador of _Spain_ made such an earnest
+Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The
+Minister therein told him, That he was inform'd of his Design; and at the
+same time protested against every thing that shou'd be done in the said
+Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope,
+very much incens'd that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had
+been betray'd by his Secretary of State, and he reproach'd him for it
+bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore,
+that he had not reveal'd it to the _Spaniard_; and he said moreover, That
+if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness's Secret, it cou'd be only from
+Cardinal _Astalli_. He desir'd but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove
+his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent
+for one of the _Spanish_ Ambassador's _Valets de Chambre_, and promis'd
+him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou'd
+search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was
+in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal _Astalli_. The _Valet
+de Chambre_ cou'd not stand the Temptation, but carry'd the fatal Letter
+to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope;
+whose Wrath was then wholly turn'd against _Astalli_, to such a Degree,
+that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him arrested
+the very next Day: But _Astalli_ disappointed him of that Pleasure,
+escap'd the same Night in a _Felucca_ from ROME, and sail'd for _Sicily_.
+Then it was that _Innocent_ X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus'd
+_Astalli_ to be summon'd, who indeed return'd to the Dominions of the Holy
+See; but he stay'd in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of _Naples_,
+where he was accompany'd by a Guard of two thousand _Spaniards_, who
+remain'd with him as long as the Pope liv'd, after whose Death _Astalli_
+return'd to ROME. I have the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Rome, Sept. 5, 1731._
+
+Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you
+honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all
+the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected
+Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported
+to me; if I accuse wrongfully, 'tis owing to my Misinformation, or my
+Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can't
+define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I
+will now relate them to you as they pass'd this Year.
+
+On _Palm_ Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_ to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.
+
+Upon the last _Wednesday_ in _Lent_, the Cardinals went after Dinner to
+the Pope's Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the _Tenebrae_,
+sung by the Pope's Voices, without being accompany'd by Instruments. 'Tis
+perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos'd, and 'tis
+so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give
+Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.
+
+The Pope being somewhat indispos'd upon _Holy Thursday_, Cardinal
+_Barberini_ officiated for him. The Cardinals repair'd in the Morning to
+the _Vatican_ in _Sixtus_'s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which
+the Cardinal _Barberini_, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in
+Mitres and white Copes, carry'd the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a
+Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into _Paul_'s Chapel, which was
+finely illuminated. There our Lord's Body was deposited, after which the
+Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers
+Nations, dress'd in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all
+sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal _Barberini_, who
+sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and
+having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc'd some Collects, which were
+answer'd by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin,
+and went and wash'd the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which
+was carry'd by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip'd their Feet dry,
+he kiss'd them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the
+Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he
+reascended the Throne, and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up
+the _Pater-noster_, and the Music finish'd it. This done, he went with the
+Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum'd his ordinary
+Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the
+Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was
+elegantly serv'd. The Pope's Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if
+the Pope had been well, he wou'd have done the same himself. The Cardinals
+din'd also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most
+sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of
+certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests
+Table is defray'd by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both
+Tables is order'd by the Pope's _Major Domo_. The Cardinal's Beaufet is
+very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that
+is better dispos'd. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with 'em;
+which, 'tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that
+happen'd to Pope _Alexander_ VI. and his Son _Caesar Borgia_, Duke _de
+Valentinois_, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the
+Cardinal _Adrian de Cornetto_, order'd Wine that was poison'd to be serv'd
+up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said
+Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But _Cornetto_ had
+the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and _Caesar_ suffer'd
+by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and
+calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was
+let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill'd them out each
+a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar'd, which kill'd the Pope; but
+_Caesar_, having caus'd himself to be wrapp'd up in the Skin of a Mule,
+recover'd.
+
+After Dinner, the Cardinals return'd to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where they
+assisted at the _Tenebrae_, and the _Miserere_. This Day's Ceremony of
+washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes.
+We find in the History of _France_, that _Robert_ the _Pious_, he that was
+call'd King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two
+hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash'd their Feet, particularly
+upon Holy _Thursday_. So at _Vienna_, _Versailles_, in _Spain_, and at
+several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign
+Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.
+
+Upon good _Friday_ in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at
+Divine Service in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; after which, they din'd together, but
+they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope's Chaplains read the
+Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the _Miserere_, and
+then they all went down into St. _Peter_'s Church, where, having form'd a
+Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel'd down upon Cushions of
+purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc'd the Reliques, which were held
+forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our
+Saviour's Side was pierc'd, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of
+the Cross on which he was crucify'd.
+
+On _Saturday_ the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of
+_Monte-Cavallo_.
+
+Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress'd in
+his _Pontificalibus_, was carry'd in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
+where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
+Priest. Then the Pope was carry'd to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
+Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Coena Domini_ with an
+audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
+against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
+After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir'd from the Castles
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the
+Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
+led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
+and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
+Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the
+Saviour of the World, the Pope's Chapel is stripp'd of all Ornaments, the
+Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
+so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.
+
+Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
+that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_'s
+of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
+Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
+Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_.
+This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes
+mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th
+Volume, that 'twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_,
+to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_'s consecrated by the Pope. And
+Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus
+Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn'd
+with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_'s in the
+first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
+Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
+their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform'd the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_
+after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_,
+which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope's
+Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
+between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
+his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
+to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of
+Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
+the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover'd with red Damask,
+there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
+solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
+gilt, Admirably carv'd by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
+Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
+Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
+Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
+Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
+same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry'd on.
+Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
+was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
+Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp'd them into
+the Holy Water, and carry'd it to mix with the Water that was in the four
+Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
+and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
+two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and
+the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_'s in wooden Tubs,
+wash'd with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
+fill'd with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish'd them up again
+with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
+Prelates deliver'd to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
+Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
+retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
+they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_'s, which they say cost the
+Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.
+
+Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_'s with very
+great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry'd in his
+Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated
+on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform'd by the Music, one
+of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_'s in a Silver Bason,
+preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
+Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter'd the
+Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater
+Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
+venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir
+answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
+kneel'd down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
+as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope's Throne, to whom
+he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_'s, in little Packets, wrapp'd up
+in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
+Standers-by, who receiv'd them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
+only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.
+
+There's a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
+are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
+princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
+a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
+complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
+the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
+their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
+in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
+without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
+are pleas'd to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
+Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
+Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
+Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
+like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
+follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
+and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
+carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
+a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
+Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
+pass by.
+
+The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
+of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex'd to
+_Nepotism_ have been abolish'd, they have been oblig'd to humble
+themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
+correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope's Nieces did not
+give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
+general were oblig'd to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
+nor did the Nieces go to any body's House, but enjoy'd all the Honours of
+Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
+not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
+their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and
+complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho' the Pope has
+declar'd their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
+the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
+vastly pleas'd with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
+it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.
+
+Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in
+the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach'd to
+the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
+the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the
+Nobility, but as much dislik'd by the Princes. 'What! _said the Pope_, Do
+the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
+when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
+now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho' I
+have declar'd my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
+old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.'
+
+I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy'd any
+solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
+Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest
+them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
+this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
+Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
+and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
+because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated
+from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
+Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
+delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
+them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
+Inferiors in Birth.
+
+Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
+their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
+no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of
+them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
+most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
+for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over,
+the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
+Compliments at meeting are set aside.
+
+The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
+their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
+a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
+they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
+Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again
+when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
+find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
+Money.
+
+The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
+Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
+who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
+five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp'd to give their
+Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
+the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp'd at the very same
+Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
+the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
+little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
+going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_
+Dutchess, who having travell'd in that manner at ROME, would fain have
+introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that
+Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
+with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
+Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.
+
+Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
+but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately
+match'd his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
+which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost
+more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and 'tis as much as a
+Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
+Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
+generally accompany'd by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
+with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
+Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
+are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
+part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
+a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
+as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his
+Service his Master _jubilees_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
+and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
+Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
+what matters it, say they, how they look?
+
+This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
+they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
+maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_
+and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
+has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
+borrow'd of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
+Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn'd up behind his Ears,
+and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon'd indecent here to
+see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon'd Prostitutes
+are always attended with a Matron.
+
+The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform'd here with very great
+Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
+the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the
+Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
+the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black.
+Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
+of the Church, dress'd in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn'd
+towards the Choir, and the Cardinal's Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de
+Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
+Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas'd: There were an hundred great Tapers
+or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
+Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
+the Cardinals enter'd the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
+Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
+the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine,
+&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
+Corpse: The Cardinals retir'd after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos'd
+till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
+Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos'd in
+another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
+_Ruspoli_'s Corpse was expos'd in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_,
+which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de
+Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased's
+Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, 'tis barbarous to
+oblige Relations to attend each other's Funerals, as is the Fashion with
+us.
+
+But tho' they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
+more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman's Mourning is black from
+Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
+which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
+Complexion. The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
+nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a
+Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
+Kindred of a Pope.
+
+They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
+sooner. 'Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
+whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow'd is always done
+with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
+their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
+with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn'd
+throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
+are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
+adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
+in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play'd off in
+the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
+Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all
+Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
+Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to
+it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho' all that they
+see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
+Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover'd
+with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There's
+scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
+these Fireworks.
+
+The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
+the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
+extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
+It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._
+one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one
+_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three
+_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
+President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
+Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
+made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_.
+
+The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in
+partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
+and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown'd Heads[15]; tho'
+I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
+saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
+Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
+require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
+Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
+Officers; and the Provost, who is call'd the _Barrigello_, with 300
+Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
+who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
+saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
+know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
+by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
+Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
+Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major
+Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
+abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
+Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
+give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
+the condemn'd Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of
+the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
+it but to be made a Cardinal.
+
+Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend
+that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, 'tis but a poor
+Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
+ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
+Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
+styl'd Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
+Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
+to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
+between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also
+under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
+at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress'd in
+a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin'd with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
+Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope's Chapel, and goes, like the
+Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
+Cardinal Nephew of what has pass'd at his Bar; he is then dress'd in a
+long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
+Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
+of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
+great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
+Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.
+
+Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
+Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The
+first, tho' 'tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
+itself; the Malefactor being ty'd with his two Hands together to a Rope,
+by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
+a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
+to be hang'd, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
+Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
+Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
+Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
+Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
+_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn'd. _Here
+he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the
+Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will
+remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the
+Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
+with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him
+in the middle, and carry him thro' several Galleries and Turnings towards
+the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
+the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
+Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time
+throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
+it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
+Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
+Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
+Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
+the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
+_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die
+willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
+the best Advice that he can.
+
+The _Italians_ generally make their _Exit_ like good Christians, but 'tis
+with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn'd to die some Years ago
+for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon _Sodom_, would not
+hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal _Banchieri_, at that time
+only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of
+God to pardon his Sins; _What!_ said the Criminal to him, _Would you have
+me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don't
+know_, said the Cardinal, _of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit
+such a Crime; but if there are, they don't plead guilty in the Face of
+Justice_. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to
+him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. _True_, reply'd the
+Convict, _but they are not all hang'd_.
+
+After a Criminal has confess'd, he receives the Sacraments, and the
+Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o'Clock, which is
+the Hour of Execution, he is convey'd in a Cart to the Gallows, to which
+he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they
+are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a
+Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the
+Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the
+Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and
+then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his
+Pain. After he is expir'd, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even
+in the Pope's Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a
+Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at
+length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury'd like another
+Man.
+
+You'll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal
+Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to
+write, so that I hope you won't take it ill that I add no more to this. I
+am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Rome, October 10, 1731._
+
+This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from
+ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put
+to me in your last.
+
+You desire, _Sir_, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy
+Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that
+such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro' a Perspective in all
+his Glory and Grandeur, shou'd be able to paint him? No, Sir, the
+Successors of St. _Peter_ are not like other Princes: None but such of
+their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them
+thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them
+always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell
+me, that in all Courts 'tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this,
+one may judge of Princes by their Actions. 'Tis very true, yet this gives
+us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without
+meaning either.
+
+To judge by outward Appearances, _Clement_ XII. may be rank'd among the
+greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was
+Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that
+Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt
+in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances,
+which were very much disorder'd by the Ministers of _Benedict_ XIII.
+renders him an [OE]conomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He
+has the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus'd of
+being more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of _Parma_, (which they give
+out here was devolv'd to the Holy See by the death of the Duke _Francis
+Farnese_) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the
+Constitution in _France_: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but
+he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews,
+whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given
+them very little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to
+every body; he liv'd magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be
+a prodigal Pope, than a _saving_ one: He was civil and affable, but not
+very ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought
+that was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent
+his Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the
+_Romans_, who had other Reasons not to be pleas'd with his Election, said
+he rose to the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet.
+
+Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is
+desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own
+Minister. But 'tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and
+he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ'd in State
+Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all
+this it were to be wish'd, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that
+he had been chose Pope in the place of _Benedict_ XIII. But 'tis the
+Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass'd
+with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: 'Tis
+pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that
+constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the
+good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho' he has not been sixteen Months in
+the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not
+generally approv'd of. Among other coarse _Pasquinades_ that were utter'd
+upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix'd to several Gates of the
+Pontifical Palace, _Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti,
+ed un Minchione, +i. e.+ Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen
+and one Fool_. Those five Cardinals were Signior _Guadagno_, the Pope's
+Nephew, formerly a barefooted _Carmelite_; Signior _Doria Maestro di
+Camera_, Archbishop of _Benevento_; Signior _Gentili_, a _Datary_, who had
+been formerly _Secretary of the Congregation of the Bishops, and the
+Regular Clergy_, a Post which, tho' the very next Step to a Cardinal's
+Cap, the Pope had made him resign for the Office of a _Datary_, which is
+but a mean Commission; Signior _Ferrayo_, and Signior _Bichi_, both
+Nuncios in _Portugal_.
+
+The last is noted for the Broils that he occasion'd between the Holy See
+and the Court of _Lisbon_: The King of _Portugal_ being disgusted with
+this Nuncio for having defrauded him of the Customs, by entring Goods upon
+his own Account, which he sold afterwards to the Prejudice of the
+_Portuguese_ Merchants, and being moreover exasperated with this Prelate
+for assuming more Authority to himself, than his Predecessors had ever
+done, demanded of _Clement_ XI. to recall him; and upon that Pope's Death
+he repeated his Instances to _Innocent_ XIII. who at length consented to
+his Demand: But then the King, for what Cause I know not, alter'd his
+Mind, and declared he was not willing that _Bichi_ should leave his Court
+till the Term of his Nunciature was expired. And as the Pope had nominated
+M. _Ferrayo_ to relieve _Bichi_, and was obstinate for the Return of the
+latter to ROME, the King order'd his Ambassador to demand of the Pope for
+what Reason he recall'd _Bichi_; and in case the Holy Father should
+declare that it was to punish his Nuncio, He injoin'd him to say, that
+this Minister was intirely innocent of the Matters laid to his Charge in
+_Portugal_; but that if, on the contrary, the Pope should give him to
+understand, that he recall'd _Bichi_, to give him such an Office in the
+Apostolical Palace as might secure him a Cardinal's Hat, he the Ambassador
+should then make Answer, that His _Portuguese_ Majesty was of Opinion,
+the Dignity of Nuncio at his Court ought to procure the Purple for all
+those who resided with him in that Quality; and that therefore his Majesty
+would never suffer M. _Bichi_ to depart from _Lisbon_, till he was
+declared a Cardinal.
+
+The Pope exclaimed against the King's new Demand, repeated his Orders to
+_Bichi_ to return to ROME, and sent away M. _Ferrayo_ for _Portugal_. But
+the King would not let _Bichi_ go out of the Kingdom, nor _Ferrayo_ come
+into it; and _Bichi_ himself refus'd to obey the Holy Father, who
+threaten'd him with Excommunication, but the Prelate, being sure of the
+King's Protection, did not much value the Apostolical Censures. The King
+in short continu'd to solicit the Hat for him strenuously; but _Innocent_
+XIII. would not hear it mention'd, alledging that it was not proper for
+him, who, in Quality of Cardinal Protector of _Portugal_, had impeach'd
+_Bichi_ at the Holy See, to advance him to the Purple. _Benedict_ XIII.
+who was of a beneficent and pacific Disposition, no sooner came to the
+Pontificate, but he wrote a Letter with his own Hand to the King of
+_Portugal_, wherein he promis'd him the Hat for _Bichi_. The Sacred
+College, when they were inform'd of the Pope's Intentions, made smart
+Remonstrances to him, and every Cardinal in particular represented to him
+how unworthy _Bichi_ was of the Purple. Cardinal _Corsini_, the present
+Pope, was the Man that declar'd himself against that Prelate with the
+greatest Warmth; for he told the Pope, that notwithstanding his Respect
+for his Holiness, he would never consent that _Bichi_, that dishonourable,
+that faithless Man, (which were the Epithets wherewith he honour'd him)
+should be one of his Brethren. In a Word, the whole Sacred College shew'd
+so much Disgust at the Thoughts of this Promotion, that the Pope was
+oblig'd to revoke the Promise he had made to the King of _Portugal_. That
+Monarch, incensed to see himself made a Jest of by the Priests, recalled
+his Ambassador and Envoy then at ROME, and ordered his Subjects to leave
+that City, and to have nothing more to do with the Holy See. And the Pope,
+in his Turn, recalled _Ferrayo_, who still continued in _Spain_, on the
+Frontier of _Portugal_, and summoned _Bichi_ to ROME, whither at last he
+was determined to return.
+
+During this, _Benedict_ XIII. died, and _Clement_ XII. succeeding him,
+_Bichi_, who is his Kinsman, went to _Sienna_, the Place of his Birth.
+There it was that he heard of his Promotion, which was made on the 24th of
+_September_ last, but not without strong Debates in the Sacred College. A
+great number of the Cardinals put the Holy Father in mind, that he was
+formerly the most zealous Stickler against _Bichi_: And in the Consistory
+wherein the Pope propos'd him, a Cardinal gave his Opinion, that the
+Prelate might be admitted into the Sacred College in Quality of a
+Penitent, The Pope happening to say, that he knew of no other Way to come
+to an Accommodation with the King of _Portugal_, than by making _Bichi_ a
+Cardinal; one of the Cardinals made Answer, 'I question whether the
+promoting of _Bichi_ will set us to Rights with _Portugal_; but let it
+happen as it may, 'twill be, at the worst, but one Hat more ill bestow'd.'
+
+The _Romans_ actually pine for an Accommodation with _Portugal_; for the
+Ambassadors of that Crown have always expended great Sums here, especially
+since the Accession of the present King, who has caus'd a great deal of
+Money to be laid out here in Statues, Pictures, and other Things of Value.
+'Tis reckon'd upon the whole, that the Absence of the _Portuguese_ is a
+Loss to the City of ROME of above a Million of _Roman_ Crowns in a Year.
+
+The Pope's Nephews are like their Uncle, Men of great Sincerity, Honour
+and Probity; but whether 'tis owing to the Indolence of their Tempers, or
+to their Want of Interest with their Uncle, they serve nobody, and know
+not the Pleasure of doing Good. The Cardinal, who should naturally have
+the most Credit, is he that has the least: He is penurious to the last
+Degree[16]. Before he was made a Cardinal and Minister, People conceiv'd a
+high Idea of him; they believ'd that a Person who had travelled so much as
+he had done, and who had been many Years employ'd by the Great Duke in
+_France_, and at the Congress of _Cambray_, must needs be well versed in
+Business; therefore they apply this Verse to him,
+
+        _Tel brille au second rang, qui s'eclipse au premier._
+
+                               i. e.
+
+  _He shines so much in the second Class, as eclipses him in the first._
+
+Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don't look upon him as a
+Minister. He is so reserved, that 'tis quite disgusting; and when he
+grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who
+receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will
+have very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies.
+
+In the same Consistory wherein the Pope made _Bichi_ a Cardinal, the Holy
+Father talk'd a great deal about the Succession of _Parma_. He complain'd
+in general Terms of the Emperor, for arrogating to himself those
+Prerogatives relating to the Dominions of _Parma_, which were only due to
+the Holy See. He acquainted the Sacred College with every thing that he
+had done for maintaining the Rights of the Church; he said, that as soon
+as he was informed that the Duchess of _Parma_ was really not with Child,
+he ordered his _Nuncio_ at _Parma_ to take Possession of the Dominions,
+that were devolved to the Holy See by the Extinction of the Male Line of
+the _Farnese_ Family; that his _Nuncio_ had executed his Orders; but that
+_Stampa_, the Emperor's General and Commissary, had caus'd an Edict to be
+publish'd, whereby, in the Name of the Emperor, he forbad all the Subjects
+of _Parma_ from owning any other Sovereign, but him to whom his Imperial
+Majesty shou'd give the Investiture of the Duchy. The Pope said, he was
+sorry when he heard _Stampa_ had taken that Step; but that he expected
+from the Emperor's Justice and Piety, that he wou'd not approve of the
+Conduct of his General, and that he wou'd not do any thing contrary to the
+incontestable Claim of the Holy See to the Dominions of the _Farnese_
+Family. The Cardinals returned a very modest Answer to the Pope, thanking
+him for the Endeavours he had us'd to maintain the Rights of the Holy See,
+and praying him to continue them. The Cardinals _Cienfuegos_ and
+_Bentivoglio_, being inform'd of all the Complaints which the Pope
+intended to make in this Consistory, took care not to be there. These
+Gentlemen are extremely angry with the Emperor; 'What! _said they_, to
+have no more Respect for the Pope and the Holy See, to invade the Estates
+of the Church, and dispose of them as he pleases, are these Actions
+becoming an Emperor, Protector of the Catholic Faith?' Really, to hear how
+they talk, one wou'd think the Emperor had actually taken all they had
+from 'em; tho' I am persuaded, that if he would but give them the Duchy of
+_Parma_, they wou'd consent to his being a _Jansenist_.
+
+You desire, Sir, to be inform'd of the Reception that is given here to
+Ambassadors. I shou'd have done this long before you desired it, if I had
+seen any Ambassador go to an Audience of the Pope, besides the _Maltese_,
+who has not so grand a Reception here as the Ambassadors of Crown'd Heads.
+'Twas on the second _Sunday_ in _Lent_, in the Afternoon, that the
+Ambassador of _Malta_, who has resided here six Years in Quality of
+Ambassador of that Order, made his Entry as Tributary Ambassador
+Extraordinary. This Minister, repairing without any Retinue to the
+Vineyard of Pope _Julius_, without the Gate _del Popoli_, was complimented
+there, on the Part of the Pope, by the _Major Domo_, and the oldest
+Prelate; and on the Part of the Cardinals, and principal Nobility, by
+their Gentlemen. After this, the Cavalcade was made with more Order than
+is commonly observ'd here at public Ceremonies. First came the several
+Coaches and Six of the Cardinals, Princes, and other Persons of
+Distinction, following one another without Observation of the respective
+Ranks of their Owners. Then came two of the Ambassador's Grooms on
+Horseback, who were follow'd by four cover'd Waggons, and a Couple of
+Field Carriages, cover'd with Tapestry, that was embroidered with his
+Excellency's Coat of Arms. Next came the Ambassador's Master of the
+Horse, follow'd by six led Horses, two Trumpets, with the Lackeys, _Valets
+de Chambre_, Pages, and Gentlemen belonging to the Ambassador, all on
+Horseback. These were follow'd by the chief Lackeys of the Cardinals
+riding upon Mules, and carrying their Master's red Hats flung over their
+Shoulders; and after these came the Cardinals Gentlemen, who were follow'd
+by a Detachment of Light-horse. The Chamberlains of Honour follow'd riding
+upon Mules. The Knights of _Malta_ on Horseback rode just before the
+Ambassador, who was supported by the _Major Domo_, and Signior _Colonna_,
+the oldest Prelate. His Excellency was preceded by twelve running Footmen
+in his Livery, and he walked in the Middle of a Couple of Files of the
+hundred _Switzers_ of the Pope's Guard. Three of the Ambassador's Coaches
+and Six clos'd the March. The whole Train pass'd thro' the chief Streets
+of ROME, and accompany'd the Ambassador to his Palace, where his
+Excellency treated all the Company with Refreshments.
+
+On the Day of Audience, the Ambassador went in his Equipage to the Palace
+of _Monte-Cavallo_, attended by the Coaches of the Cardinals and the
+Nobility. He was receiv'd at the Top of the Stairs by the _Major Domo_,
+who conducted him into that called the Prince's Apartment. The Ambassador
+having waited there a little Time, two Masters of the Ceremonies came to
+acquaint him, that his Holiness was ready to admit him to an Audience in
+the Consistory then sitting. The Ambassador went thither, conducted by the
+Masters of the Ceremonies; and Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_,
+received him at the Entrance of the Hall of the Consistory, and conducted
+him to the Entrance of the Court fronting the Pope. The Ambassador fell on
+his Knees, and made a profound Obeisance to the Pope, who gave him his
+Blessing. Then he fell on his Knees again in the Middle of the Court, and
+the third Time at the Pope's Feet, to whom he made his Speech kneeling. In
+this Posture he also delivered the Letter from the Grand Master to the
+Holy Father, who gave it to a Prelate, ordering him to read it. The
+Ambassador arose, and having crossed the Court, saluting the Cardinals on
+the Right and Left, he fell on his Knees at the Entrance of the Court,
+opposite to the Holy Father. There he heard the Grand Master's Letter
+read, and afterwards a very long Speech in _Latin_, which an Abbat, who
+was a Knight of _Malta_, made in the Name of the Order, upon his Knees.
+The Prelate had no sooner read the Letter, but he answered the Speech in
+_Latin_. The Ambassador, who was still on his Knees, arose, after the
+Prelate had ended his Speech; went and kneel'd again at the Pope's Feet,
+which he kiss'd, and then presented to his Holiness the Knights of
+_Malta_, who had accompany'd him to the Audience, and who all kiss'd the
+Holy Father's Feet. The Pope, rising from his Seat, retir'd to his
+Apartment; but the Ambassador stay'd in the Hall of the Consistory, till
+all the Cardinals were gone out. He then returned to his Palace, where he
+gave a grand Repast to the Knights of his Order. The next and the
+following Days, he made his Visits of Ceremony to the Cardinals. Their
+Eminencies don't give Precedence to the Ambassadors; but bating that only,
+they treat them as their Equals.
+
+I have been assured, that the Ambassadors Extraordinary of Kings are
+lodged three Days in the Pontifical Palace, during which they have the
+Honour to dine once with the Holy Father. If I continue here till the
+Arrival of the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, who is
+every Day expected, I will give you an Account how he is received; for
+tho' these Ceremonies are printed here, I shall be willing to have ocular
+Demonstration of the Things that I write to you.
+
+Of all the public Functions at this Place, there is none more august, and
+more solemn, than the Procession with the Holy Sacrament, when 'tis
+carry'd by the Pope. Upon _Corpus Christi_ Day, the Holy Father was placed
+in an Arm-chair, without a Back to it, with a Desk before him, upon which
+he laid the Pyx that contained the Holy Sacrament. His Cope, which was
+very long, and very wide, so cover'd the Desk and the Chair, that the Pope
+seemed to be kneeling. His Head was uncovered, and in this Posture he was
+carry'd by eight Men. In my whole Life, I never saw any thing more
+exemplary than the Countenance of the Pope during the Ceremony, his Face
+being the very Picture of Contrition and Devotion. The Procession set out
+from St. _Peter_'s Church, attended by all the Fraternities, the Monastic
+Orders, the _Roman_ Nobility, the Conservators of ROME, the Governor of
+ROME, the Chapter of St. _Peter_, and all the Prelates and Bishops. Three
+_Tiara_'s, and as many Mitres, adorn'd with Pearls and Diamonds, were
+carry'd before the Holy Father. The Pope was environed with the hundred
+_Swiss_ of his Guards, all in Armour, and by the Officers of his Chamber;
+and the Procession was clos'd by the Light-horse, and Cuirassiers on
+Horseback. The Colonnade of St. _Peter_, and the Streets, were hung with
+Tapestry, and cover'd with Canvas, to keep off the Heat of the Sun. As the
+Pope passed by the House where the Family of the _Stuarts_ liv'd, he gave
+to those Princes the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament. The Holy Father's
+Nieces were in a neighbouring House; but they did not receive that
+Honour, it being reserved only for Sovereigns.
+
+You seem, Sir, to be so much prejudiced against the holy Office of the
+Inquisition, that I must endeavour to convince you of the mistaken Notion,
+which, I presume to say, you have conceived upon that Head. Honest People
+have no more Reason to dread this Tribunal, than any of the other Courts
+of Justice. They tell a thousand Stories of it in our Part of the World,
+and especially among the _Protestants_, which are absolute Falsehoods. Be
+but an honest Man; speak of God and the Saints with all due Respect, or at
+least don't offer to insult them; give no public Scandal; and you have
+nothing to fear from the Holy Office. To speak the Truth, will not a Man
+in all the Christian Countries, that is notoriously impious in Word or
+Deed, will he not be taken to Talk by the Consistories, and by the Law? I
+own, for my part, that I don't see wherein that Barbarity, and that
+Inhumanity consists, which the Holy Office is charg'd with in _Protestant_
+Countries; on the contrary, it seems to me to be the mildest Tribunal in
+the World. Let me be guilty of the greatest Injuries to God and Religion,
+in Thought, Word or Deed; if I do but go and confess my Crimes to the Holy
+Office, and tell them I repent of my Wickedness and Folly, the Father
+Commissary will represent the Horror of my Sins to me, will exhort me, for
+the Salvation of my Soul, to behave and think better for the future, and
+at last will absolve me. Where now is that _Protestant_ Tribunal, which is
+content with a voluntary Confession? Instead of absolving the Penitent,
+don't they condemn him to Imprisonment, and bodily Pains?
+
+For these sixteen Months that I have been at ROME, I have not heard of any
+one's being arrested by the Holy Office; on the contrary, I have seen
+Acts of Clemency perform'd by this Tribunal, so much run down, which
+perhaps the Consistory of _Geneva_ would never have done. I had not long
+been here, but there came one _Pallas_, a Native of _Toulon_, and Captain
+in _France_, who brought a young Woman with him, whom he said he had
+ravish'd; he desir'd a License of the Vicar to marry her, which was
+granted. But some Months after, there comes a Woman, who appear'd to be
+the Wife of _Pallas_, and the Mother of the young Creature that he had but
+just married, and who was ready to lie in. _Pallas_, perceiving his Crime
+on the Brink of being detected, goes and reveals the whole to the Holy
+Office, which first gave him Protection for his Person, and in a few Days
+after acquitted him, injoining him at the same time to take his first Wife
+again. This _Pallas_ dying not many Days after, his two Wives went to Law
+for their Jointure. I question now whether this Officer would have been
+acquitted by a Parliament of _France_.
+
+The Congregation of the Holy Office was established by Pope _Paul_ III. at
+the Solicitation of the Cardinal _John Peter Caraffa_, who afterwards,
+becoming Pope, by the Name of _Paul_ IV. made a remarkable Addition to the
+Authority of this Tribunal. That Holy Pontiff, _Pius_ V. reduced it to its
+present State. This Congregation consists of a dozen Cardinals, besides a
+Number of Prelates, and a great many Divines of different Orders, who are
+called _Consultori & Qualificatori del Santo Officio_. Among those are
+included a Conventual, the General of the _Dominicans_, the Master of the
+Sacred Palace, the Commissary of the Holy Office, the Fiscal, and the
+Assessor, which last must always be a secular Prelate. This Tribunal takes
+Cognizance of the Causes of Heresy, and of such novel Opinions as are
+repugnant to the Soundness of the Catholic Faith; as also of Matters of
+Apostasy, Witchcraft, the Abuse of the Sacraments, and other wicked
+Actions; and it likewise takes Cognizance of prohibited Books. It sits
+twice a Week, _viz._ on _Wednesdays_ in the Convent of _Minerva_, and on
+_Thursdays_ in Presence of the Pope, who is the Head of it. The oldest
+Cardinal has the Title of Secretary of the Holy Office, and is the Keeper
+of its Seals. None but Cardinals can vote in it, and they admit of no
+Proposals but what they think proper.
+
+The Palace of the Holy Office is close by St. _Peter_'s Church, and there
+live the Assessor, the Father Commissary, the Fiscal, the Notary, and
+other Officers. There also the Prisoners are kept, and there they are
+try'd, according as the Case requires. The Officers of the Holy Office
+acknowledge no other Judges in the first Instance, but the Assessor of the
+Tribunal whereof they are Members; and they appeal for the Definitive
+Sentence to the Cardinals who are Members of the Congregation.
+
+I will conclude my long Letter with a Remark, which I have made upon the
+_Romans_ in particular, and the _Italians_ in general, I mean its to the
+reciprocal Hatred of the Inhabitants of the different States of _Italy_.
+That the _Romans_ hate the _Florentines_, I think I have told you more
+than once; but that's not all, for they as heartily hate the _Neapolitans_
+and the _Genoese_. They commonly say, that there must be seven _Jews_ to
+make one _Genoese_, and seven _Genoese_ to make one _Florentine_. 'Tis
+unaccountable how the People of _Italy_ can so hate one another. I can't
+imagine that they should be so blind as not to see the Prejudice it does
+them; for, in short, 'tis not barely the Hatred of one Province to
+another, but it diffuses its Poison to the Towns that are subject to one
+and the same Sovereign. These People don't consider that they form one and
+the same Nation; and that if they did but unite together, they would be
+both rich and powerful; but being jealous of one another, they only seek
+to ruin each other, and by that means deprive themselves of the most solid
+Support of their Liberty.
+
+To my mind, we act much more rationally; for tho' our _Germany_ is divided
+into many more Dominions than _Italy_ is, we do however form a Body
+against Foreigners, who have a Design upon our Estates and our Liberties.
+The lesser Princes comply with the Emperor's Will; and their own Interest,
+and that of the Empire, is all one. Our Princes visit and associate with
+one another, and maintain a Sort of common Friendship; the _Italian_
+Princes on the contrary never visit one another; and when by chance a
+Sovereign of four or five Leagues of Country comes to have an Interview
+with such another Sovereign as himself, it takes up as much Negociation to
+adjust it, as was necessary to settle the Interview between _Philip_ IV.
+and _Lewis_ XIV. But is it not ridiculous to see such petty States act
+towards one another with as much Finesse and Craft as the most powerful
+Kingdoms? 'Tis this Diffidence, this reciprocal Hatred between the
+Governments and Towns of _Italy_, that has made them for a long time the
+Sport of Foreigners; whereas, if these People did but keep up a good
+Understanding with one another, they would soon drive them out; for Nature
+has furnish'd them with Ditches and Walls, which if they don't defend,
+'tis their own Fault: But it seems as if Providence, by which the Fate of
+all Dominions is determin'd, would not have it so.
+
+Adieu, Sir, for the present: I cannot be sure when I shall write to you
+again, much less when I shall have the Pleasure of embracing you, tho'
+there's scarce a Day passes over my Head but I do it in Imagination. Do
+you but render me like for like, and be assur'd that nobody in the World
+is more strictly than I am, _Yours, &c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XXXV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Genoa, Nov. 2, 1731._
+
+The Road from _Rome_ to LORETTO has been so fully describ'd, that I think
+I should pass it over in Silence; nor shall I say any thing more to you of
+the _Santa Casa_, which you know in what manner the Angels bore to the
+Place where it now stands. If you would be inform'd of the Treasure of
+this House, look into the Voyages of _Misson_, who has given a large
+Account of every Particular: Since he wrote, the Treasure is not very much
+increas'd, the Princes having almost done making their Offerings to it.
+The Queen of _France_ has lately settled a perpetual Endowment on it for
+the Celebration of four Masses a Day, by way of Thanksgiving for the Birth
+of the Dauphin.
+
+From _Loretto_ to BOLOGNA the Road is good, and 'tis a fine fruitful
+Country; I stay'd three Days the longer at that City, on purpose to see
+the Cardinal _Grimani_, who is Legate there from the Holy See. He is a
+Prelate of great Virtue, sound Morals, and polite, but unaffected
+Behaviour. He has been _Internuncio_ at _Brussels_, _Nuncio_ at
+_Cologne_, and in _Poland_, and in this Quality he resided at _Vienna_,
+when he was advanc'd to the Purple. I knew him at all those _Nunciatures_;
+I saw him at _Rome_, when he went thither to receive the Hat, and I have
+now seen him again at _Bologna_, and find he is the same Man now he is
+both Cardinal and Legate, that he was when but an _Internuncio_[17]. For
+'tis only in vulgar Souls that Honours change Manners.
+
+Notwithstanding the Reluctance I had to repass the _Apennine_ Hills a
+second time, I was forced to resolve upon it, or else to renounce all
+Thoughts of being at _Leghorn_ at the Arrival of the Fleets from _Spain_
+and _England_, I have been at FLORENCE, and have had the Honour to wait on
+the Great Duke, and Madame the Electoress Palatine Dowager. I had formerly
+paid my Compliments to this Princess, both here and at _Dusseldorp_, and
+she was now pleas'd to call me to mind again, and to shew me abundance of
+Respect and Kindness: Her most Serene Electoral Highness lives very
+retir'd, and is almost continually at her Devotions: She has her own
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber; but as for the rest, she is attended by the
+Officers of the Great Duke, and makes use also of that Prince's Equipage.
+
+I did not suppose that I should be able to pay my Respects to the Great
+Duke, because I had been told, that it was very difficult to get an
+Audience of him; yet I attain'd to that Honour at the very Time when I
+least of all expected it. As I was going from the Electress's Apartment, I
+met one of the Great Duke's _Valets de Chambre_, who came to tell me,
+That his Royal Highness wanted to speak with me: This Message so surpriz'd
+me, that I thought the Man mistook me for another Person, till he
+convinced me of the contrary: I was obliged to yield Obedience, and the
+_Valet de Chambre_ introduc'd me to the Audience: I found the Great Duke
+sitting upright in Bed, accompany'd by several Lap-dogs, with nothing on
+but a Shirt without Ruffles, and a long Cravat about his Neck of coarse
+Muslin: His Cap was very much besmear'd with Snuff, and truly there was
+nothing neat nor grand about him: By his Bed-side there stood a Table in
+Form of a Beaufet, upon which there were Silver Buckets, that contain'd
+Bottles of Liquors and Glasses: His Royal Highness receiv'd me however
+with great Marks of Goodness, reproach'd me because I had not yet desired
+to see him, and said to me in the kindest Manner possible, That I did very
+ill to treat my old Friends with so much Indifference. The Prince
+remember'd he had known my Father, and he call'd to mind, that when he was
+at _Berlin_, my Parents paid him all due Respects; he ask'd me what News
+from the Court of _Prussia_? and wanted to know all the Alterations that
+had been made there since his Time: He talk'd to me of the Court of
+_Rome_, and particularly of the Pope; and said with a Smile, That the Holy
+Father was at first his Subject, afterwards his Equal, and now the Master
+of him, and of all the Catholic Princes. The Conversation at length took a
+gayer Turn, and ran upon Pleasures, good Chear, and the Bottle. The Grand
+Duke said, 'twas too early in the Day to drink Wine, (for 'twas no more
+than Two o'Clock in the Afternoon) but that he had a choice Dram, of which
+I should taste, and he was so good as to fill me a Glass of it out of a
+Bottle which was by his Bed-side. 'Twas to no Purpose for me to protest,
+that I never drank Drams; I was fain to drink that Glass, then another,
+and after that a third. The Great Duke assum'd no State upon Account of
+his Rank, but treated me as his Equal, and drank Glass for Glass with me.
+I was just going to fall at his Knees, and to beg Quarter, when, as good
+Luck would have it, _Joannino_, his favourite _Valet de Chambre_, came in,
+and whisper'd something in his Ear. Upon this the Great Duke put on a
+serious Air, and soon after dismiss'd me, but charg'd me not to go from
+FLORENCE before I had receiv'd his Commands. _Make yourself as merry as
+you can_, said the Prince; _but be sure not to go away without taking year
+Leave of me_. Two Hours after I return'd to my Inn, his Royal Highness
+sent me a Present of Fowls, _Bologna_ Sausages, Cheese, Sweetmeats, and
+other good Things, together with several Dozens of Bottles of most
+excellent Wine; so that I assure you I had Subsistence enough for three
+Months.
+
+I stay'd four Days, expecting the Great Duke's Orders; but as none came in
+all that Time, I desir'd his Favourite _Joannino_ to ask him if he had any
+Commands for me; upon which he sent me word, that he desir'd I would stay
+two Days longer, and that then he would see me. I heard that a Courier was
+arriv'd from _Leghorn_, which brought him News, that the _Spanish_ Fleet
+had been seen at Sea; upon which I thought, that the Grand Duke would be
+very much taken up with his Ministers; but I was soon inform'd, that he
+left all Matters intirely to the Management of his Ministers, the
+Commandeur _d'Elbene_, and the Marquis _Rinuccini_, who settled every
+thing as they thought fit with Father _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister.
+
+The Great Duke lay snug in his Bed, not that he was sick, but out of pure
+Indulgence. 'Tis now twenty-two Months since he went out of his Palace,
+and above seven since he put on his Cloaths. His Levee is not till Noon,
+and then he sends for such as he has Business with to his Bed-chamber; but
+this is an Honour which the _Florentines_ don't easily attain to; for he
+seems to be fondest of the _German_ Nation, whose Language he speaks well,
+and pretends even to know its various Dialects. There are few Pilgrims
+that pass this Way, either to or from _Rome_, but he sends for them to his
+Court, where he converses whole Hours with them, refreshes them with his
+Cordials, and puts a Crown in their Pockets when they go away: He dines at
+Five o'Clock in the Evening, and sups at Two in the Morning: He always
+eats alone, commonly in his Bed; and spends two or three Hours in
+Table-Talk with _Joannino_, and some young Fellows call'd _Ruspanti_,
+because they are Pensioners to the Great Duke, and paid in _Ruspes_, which
+are a Coin of the same Value as _Sequins_; and some of them have two,
+three, and even five _Ruspes_ a Week. They are paid by _Joannino_ every
+_Wednesday_ and _Saturday_; but all their Business is to attend the Great
+Duke, whenever he sends for them at Dinner or Supper; 'tis said their
+Number consists of above three hundred, and that they cost his Royal
+Highness 80,000 Crowns _per Ann._ They consist of all Nations, but of
+_Germans_ more than any other. They wear no Livery, nor are they all clad
+alike; and they are only Known by their Locks, which are always very much
+curl'd and powder'd.
+
+When the two Days which the Great Duke had order'd me to stay were
+expir'd, I again sent for his Leave to be gone; upon which he commanded me
+to wait on him, and receiv'd me altogether as kindly as he did the first
+Time: He kept me near three Hours, during which he did me the Honour to
+talk with me on a thousand different Subjects; and then he dismiss'd me,
+saying, _Farewel, go to +Leghorn+, and see my new Guests safe ashore_.
+
+I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some
+Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.
+
+The Commandeur _d'Elbene_ is Steward of the Great Duke's Houshold, and
+President of his Council, and venerable both for his Age and his Merit.
+
+The Marquis _Rinuccini_ is the second Minister, but is properly the Soul
+of the Council, having been employ'd in Business a long time; for in 1711
+he was the Great Duke's Envoy at the _Hague_, and about that Time he
+attended the late Elector Palatine to the Election of an Emperor at
+_Franckfort_. He was afterwards sent Envoy from the Great Duke to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_, and from thence he went to _England_: When he
+return'd from his Embassies, the late Great Duke admitted him a Member of
+his Council, and put him at the Head of Foreign Affairs, of which he has
+still the Direction. 'Twas he that dispos'd the Great Duke and the
+Electress to submit to the Times, and to recognize Don _Carlos_, the
+Infante of _Spain_, for their Successor: And in fine, he is the Man that
+settles all Matters against the Arrival of that Prince, who is expected
+here with very great Impatience.
+
+Tho' the Nobility of FLORENCE are in general very civil to Foreigners, yet
+'tis certain, that the Marquis _Richardi_ is one of those Gentlemen that
+give them the best Welcome; and as he is one of the richest Gentlemen in
+_Tuscany_, he is also one of those that keep the best House; he has three
+Sons, and one of them is a Prelate; the eldest of them, Don _Vincenzo_,
+who is like some Day or other to be the Head of the Family, has travell'd
+very much, and is certainly a Gentleman of very great Acquirements and
+Merit.
+
+There are a great many fine Ladies here, but they don't dress well, and
+have not near so much Liberty as those of _Rome_: There's one Madame
+_Suarez_ indeed, that cuts a very great Figure, and keeps open House to
+all Comers; she receives Foreigners in a grand Manner, especially the
+_English_; but her House would be better, if there was not so much Gaming
+in it.
+
+Before I set out from FLORENCE, I can't think it will be improper to give
+you a few Particulars concerning the Family of the _Medicis_, which is
+near being extinct in the Person of the Great Duke _John Gaston_.
+
+This Family has given seven Sovereign Princes to _Tuscany_. _Cosmo_ the
+First, of that Name, was also the first Great Duke. He obtain'd that Title
+about _Ann._ 1568. from the Emperor _Maximilian_ II of whom he had
+demanded the Title of _King of Hetruria_; but the Emperor return'd him for
+Answer, That he knew of but one King in _Italy_, and that was himself.
+However, to gratify _Cosmo_'s Vanity, _Maximilian_ invented the Title of
+_Great Duke_, that of _Arch Duke_ being already the Appenage of the House
+of _Austria_. The Names of the seven Great Dukes, with their Alliances,
+are as follow.
+
+    _+Cosmo I.+ who married +Eleanor+ of +Toledo+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand I.+ who married +Joan+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Francis I.+ who married +Mary Magdalen+ of +Austria+._
+
+    _+Cosmo II.+ whose Wife was +Claude+ of +Lorain+._
+
+    _+Ferdinand II.+ married to +Mary de la Rovero+, Duchess of
+    +Urbino+._
+
+    _+Cosmo III.+ who married +Margaretta Louisa+ of +Orleans+._
+
+    _+John Gaston+, married to +Anna Maria Frances+ of
+    +Saxe-Lawenbourg+._
+
+The Family of _Medicis_ calls to my Mind that of the _Kettlers_, Dukes of
+_Courland_; and I fansy the following Parallel will hold between the two
+Families. The _Medicis_, before they were Sovereigns of _Tuscany_, were
+Standard-Bearers of FLORENCE; the _Kettlers_ were Gentlemen, and Grand
+Masters of the _Teutonic_ Order in _Courland_. The Emperor _Maximilian_
+II. made _Medicis_ Grand Duke: _Sigismond Augustus_, King of _Poland_,
+made _Kettler_ a Duke. The two Families have each given seven Sovereigns
+to _Europe_, and they are alike related to the greatest Families. The last
+of the _Medicis_, and the last of the _Kettlers_, were married to
+Princesses of the _Saxon_ Family. They both see Foreign Powers disposing
+of their Succession before they are dead[18]. Both Families began to
+flourish almost at the same time, at the two Extremities of _Europe_; and
+in all Appearance their Period is like to be the same.
+
+I could stay but six Days at _Florence_ this Journey, because I had a mind
+to see the Landing of the _Spaniards_ at LEGHORN. I had no Time neither to
+lose, for they came into the Road the Day before I arriv'd, and landed two
+or three Days after. The Fleet was compos'd of two Squadrons, one of
+which, _viz._ the _English_, consisting of thirteen Ships, was commanded
+by Admiral _Wager_. The two Squadrons set Sail at one and the same time,
+but had been dispers'd by a Storm in the Gulph of _Lyons_. The _English_
+came in all together; but the _Spaniards_ arriv'd one after another, and
+some of their Transports were lost. In fine, the Troops were all landed on
+the second of _November_, _All Souls Day_, whereon there fell a terrible
+Rain, on which the Superstitious sounded dismal Conjectures. The Marquis
+_de Charni_[19], the Commander of the _Spanish_ Forces, came on Shore the
+Day preceding, to adjust all Matters with the Marquis _Rinuccini_, whom
+the Grand Duke had sent for that Purpose to LEGHORN. The _Spanish_ General
+was oblig'd to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Duke before the
+Marquis _Rinuccini_, which when he had done, the _Spanish_ Forces enter'd
+the City, incorporated themselves with those of the Grand Duke, and
+mounted Guard on the very same Day that they landed. It is stipulated,
+that there shall be always two Thirds _Spaniards_ to one Third of the
+Great Duke's Soldiers. The _Spanish_ Army consists of no more than 6000
+Men, but then they are the Flower of their Troops, and there are Arms and
+Equipage for above 20,000. There's one _Swiss_ Regiment, another of
+_Walloons_.
+
+I have been to see the two Admiral Ships: The _English_ has three Decks,
+and carries 86 Guns: The _Spanish_, which had Admiral _Mari_ on board,
+carries 90 Guns, has three Decks also, and is by much bigger than the
+_English_ Man of War: It had been fitted up for bringing over the Infante
+Don _Carlos_, and no Expence was spar'd to render it magnificent. The
+Admiral's Cabbin was hung with Sky-blue and Silver Brocade; the Tables,
+Chairs, and the Frames of the Pier Glasses, _&c._ were of _Indian_ Lacca
+Red and Gold: But notwithstanding all this Magnificence, the _English_
+Ship was the neatest, and far out-did the _Spaniard_ in the civil
+Treatment of those that went aboard. The _English_ Naval Officers are
+almost all Men of Quality: They strove who should be the most polite to
+such as came to visit them, and talk'd very modestly both of their Ships
+and their Tackling; whereas the _Spaniards_ bragg'd of theirs beyond
+measure; they pretended that their Ships, which had only two Decks, were
+much easier to work than those of the _English_, which are all of three
+Decks; and affirm'd, that as their Ships were broader and longer, and
+their Decks higher, they were much more formidable than the _English_, and
+not so much incommoded by the Smoak in a Battle. On the other hand, I was
+told by an _Engish_ Officer, That a Ship with three Decks was preferable
+to one that had but two, because when 'tis a high Sea, and they are forc'd
+to shut up the lowermost Deck, there are still two Batteries remaining,
+whereas a Ship with but two Decks, in the same Case, can have but one
+remaining: Besides, a Ship with three Decks, _said the Officer_, being
+higher than a Ship with but a couple, has a great Advantage over what the
+other has, when they come to Boarding. As I understand nothing of
+Navigation, I know not whether my _Englishman_ was in the right. But be
+that as it will, I am of the Opinion, which prevails almost universally,
+that whenever it shall please God to let second Causes have their Effects,
+it will be always safer to _lay a Wager_ on the Side of the _English_ than
+on the _Spanish_ Ships.
+
+On St. _Charles_'s Day, which was the Festival of the Infante Don
+_Carlos_, the Marquis _Mari_ gave us a grand Feast: I say _us_, because I
+was there, as well as all _Leghorn_, _Florence_, _Sienna_, _Lucca_, and
+_Pisa_, which you'll say was a goodly Company, and I assure you moreover,
+it was very gay. The _Florence_ Gentry, who expected that the Infante
+would have come with the Fleet, had all bespoke new Apparel; and as they
+are naturally very prodigal, they spar'd no Cost upon this Occasion. The
+_Lucquese_ Gentry did not come short of them, of whom it may be said, that
+taking the _Milanese_ and _Genoese_ along with them, they are of all the
+_Italians_ the most polite, and have most of the Air of Men of Quality.
+Besides the _Italians_, there was so great a Concourse of _Englishmen_ and
+Foreigners at LEGHORN, that all the Lodgings were taken up; nevertheless
+Provisions were in great Plenty, and as cheap as ever.
+
+The _English_ are return'd home. 'Tis said, that the Infante[20] will come
+hither speedily by Land. The _Tuscans_ long mightily to see him, and
+expect he will work Miracles; for besides what they have heard in his
+Praise, they lay great Stress upon a Prophecy of _Nostradamus_, who says
+in one of his Stanzas,
+
+      _Du plus profund de l'Occident d'Europe,
+      De doubles Nopces un Enfant naitra,
+      Qui vers le Po menera grande Troupe:
+      Son bruit au Regne d'Orient plus croitra._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+      'In the most Western Part of _Europe_ an Infant
+      shall be born of a double Marriage, who shall
+      lead a great Force towards the _Po_, and whose
+      Fame shall spread to the Eastermost Kingdom.'
+
+This Child, _born of a double Marriage_, must be the Infante, who is the
+Son of _Philip_ V. by his second Wife.
+
+I heartily wish that I cou'd have staid at _Florence_ till this Prince
+arriv'd; but I have order'd my Affairs so as to be at _Paris_ before
+_Christmas_, and I must steer my Course accordingly. Yet before I leave
+LEGHORN, I must give you some Account of this City, which is of more Note
+for its great Trade, than for its Antiquity. 'Tis one of the neatest
+Cities in _Italy_, and that to which there's the greatest Concourse of
+Foreign Merchants, either for the sake of Trade, or for Shelter from their
+Creditors: The City is well built, the Streets broad, strait and
+lightsome, and several have Canals in them, after the Manner of _Holland_.
+The great Square is beautiful, and the Port magnificent, being divided
+into the great and little Harbours, the former of which has been render'd
+convenient by the Expence of a fine Mole, and some Towers that serve for
+Light-houses; the other, which has a very narrow Entrance, serves for the
+Gallies. There's an admirable Marble Statue of _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_,
+which is rais'd on a Pedestal of the like white Marble: The Great Duke is
+represented in Armour, with a Ducal Mantle over his Shoulders, a Turban on
+his Head, and a Scymitar at his Feet. The Concomitants of this fine Statue
+are worthy of a nice Observation: At the very Foot of the Base or
+Pedestal, at the four Corners, there are as many Slaves in Brass,
+representing _Turks_, in admirable Attitudes, which seem, as it were,
+chain'd to the Pedestal: The _Connoisseurs_ reckon them Master-pieces:
+Their Proportion, which is twelve Foot, makes the Vulgar think they
+represent four Giants; but Tradition says, that they are the Figures of
+four _Turks_, _viz._ the Great-Grandfather, the Grandfather, the Father,
+and the Son; who being all on board a _Turkish_ Vessel, the youngest of
+them, who was an Astrologer, prophesied to his Companions, as they
+embark'd, that on such a Day they shou'd all be taken into Slavery by the
+Christians; which Prediction, to their Misfortune, came to pass; for they
+were taken by the Great Duke's Gallies, and this Prince caus'd their
+Statues to be carv'd, to transmit the Event to Posterity.
+
+PISA, tho' a much more considerable City than _Leghorn_ for its Antiquity,
+and the Beauty of its Buildings, is not so pleasant a Place by far. 'Tis a
+large, fine, well built City, but extremely thin of People; 'tis divided
+into two Parts by the River _Arno_, which comes from _Florence_, and forms
+two stately Kays here. The Cathedral is a great stately Fabric of _Gothic_
+Architecture: It has three great Gates, the Doors or Leaves of which are
+of Brass, and represent the Passages mention'd in the New Testament, a
+Proof how grosly they are mistaken, who say they were the Gates of
+_Solomon_'s Temple; but they are not near so fine as those at the
+Baptistery of _Florence_. The Inside of the Church is answerable to the
+Magnificence of the Outside, and the Roof is supported by sixty Marble
+Columns.
+
+I say nothing to you of the Tower that leans to one Side, and which
+consists of six or seven Degrees or Rows of Pillars one above another, nor
+of the stately Baptistery, much less of the Church-yard, call'd _il Campo
+Santo_. Look into _Misson_, he will tell you the Measures of every thing;
+for that Gentleman always carry'd Mathematical Instruments about him, so
+that there was nothing but what he measur'd and weigh'd.
+
+PISA is a City, which a Traveller can't avoid seeing, but 'tis impossible
+for him to stay in it; the People being so proud of the Honour their
+Ancestors gain'd by the Conquest of _Carthage_, that their Vanity is
+perfectly surfeiting.
+
+Having stay'd but one Day at _Pisa_, I proceeded in my Journey to _Genoa_,
+passing thro' the Forest of VIAREGGIO, where, if I had had a great Charge
+of Money about me, and had credited what my Guide said, I shou'd have
+sweat for Fear; because he affirm'd to me, that there was not a Week
+throughout the Year but Passengers were robb'd and murder'd in this
+Forest. But when I came to the Village of _Viareggio_, which stands in the
+Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was
+false; and that since the Courier from _Lucca_ was robb'd, which was
+eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put
+me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don't care to
+tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an _Italian_ Lacquey that I have
+in my Service, cou'd not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this
+Forest to pass thro', he conjur'd me to take a Guard; but I banter'd him,
+and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his
+Beads. I had scarce travell'd half a League, but I saw five Men coming
+arm'd; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy'd them, cry'd out like a
+Madman, _Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia!
+Misericordia!_ I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men,
+who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their
+Garb, that they were Soldiers from _Lucca_, who patroll'd there for the
+Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at
+first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to
+PIETRA-SANTA, a little Place in the State of _Lucca_, he had not Strength
+to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz'd him, that he was
+almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every
+whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus'd him to
+bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my
+Chaise, and went and lay at MASSA DI CARRARA, the Capital of a very small
+Feodal Sovereignty of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal _Cibo_, the last
+of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece,
+who, 'tis said, is design'd for the young Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+Nephew[21] to the Great _Eugene_, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor's
+Forces.
+
+The Founder of this Family was _Alberic Cibo_, the natural Son of
+_Innocent_ VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor _Maximilian_ II. erected
+_Massa_ into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing
+remarkable in it but the Prince's Palace, which makes some Shew. The
+Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at _Massa_ are of good
+florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble,
+and for Oil in abundance.
+
+From _Massa_ to SERSANA, or SARZANA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, the
+Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and
+Vines. In this City the _Genoese_ have a Governor, or Podestat, but they
+keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better
+Soldiers to withstand the _Corsicans_, who are call'd the _Devils_ of
+_Italy_, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress'd. The
+Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for
+Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from
+Foreigners.
+
+From _Sersana_ I proceeded to LERICI, a little Town on the Sea-side. There
+I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv'd in less than twenty-four
+Hours at _Genoa_, tho' I stay'd some Hours at SESTRI, an Episcopal City of
+that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and very agreeably
+situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This
+Town is defended by a Fort, which seem'd to me to be well furnish'd with
+Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann'd than that of _Sersana_.
+
+GENOA, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the
+greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the
+Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns
+of _Italy_ it is with Justice call'd the _Superb_; for there is not a City
+in _Europe_, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and
+where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City
+has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer'd a greater
+Shock than in 1684. when 'twas bombarded by Order of _Lewis_ XIV. The
+Marquis _de Seignelai_, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg'd
+his Commission so well, that from the 18th of _May_ to the 28th, he caus'd
+13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The _Genoese_ were oblig'd to
+humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that
+they wou'd send four Senators into _France_, to make their Submission to
+him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho',
+according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a
+Foot out of the City, _Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari_ was then the Doge,
+who went to _Versailles_, and had his Audience there on the 15th of _May_
+1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more
+Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.
+
+The _French_ boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck
+Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in
+Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of
+the most glorious Epochas of the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. Far be it from me
+to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and
+to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether
+the _French_ wou'd easily pardon any other Nations for making the like
+Boast of their Exploits. The _Spaniards_, who have the Character of being
+vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the
+_French_. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is,
+the Excuses which _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, Son to _Charles
+Emanuel_, Duke of _Savoy_, made in Person to _Philip_ IV. King of _Spain_,
+in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because
+he had made a Treaty with _France_, sought to be reveng'd on him, and
+found an Opportunity. _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ being assassinated,
+_Mary de Medicis_, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with
+_Spain_, by assisting _Charles Emanuel_. _Philip_ IV. improv'd this
+Opportunity, and caus'd Troops to march from the _Milanese_ towards
+_Piedmont_: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to
+_Madrid_. The young Prince was very well receiv'd there at first, but he
+had the Mortification to be oblig'd to make the most submissive Speech
+that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: 'Sir, _said he,
+addressing himself to the King_, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being
+hinder'd from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to
+supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I
+am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief
+of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at
+your Majesty's Feet, resolv'd not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till
+you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke
+my Father, and our whole Family, into your Royal Protection. By this,
+_Sir_, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest
+Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is
+devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration,
+which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if
+necessary, be seal'd by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon
+your Majesty's Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve.
+If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it
+will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.'
+
+Was not so submissive a Speech as this more likely to feed the Vanity of
+the King of _Spain_, than all the Excuses made by the Doge of _Genoa_ to
+puff up _Lewis_ XIV? And is not a Prince of _Piedmont_ at _Madrid_, a
+Person of more Consequence than a Doge of _Genoa_ at _Versailles_?
+Nevertheless, the _Spaniards_ have neither struck any Medals, nor raised
+any Monuments to transmit that Event to Posterity. Pardon me, Sir, for
+this Digression: The Prince of _Piedmont_'s Speech is not to be met with
+in all the Historians: I believ'd it would be acceptable to you, and
+thought it was not altogether foreign to my Subject, to put the Reparation
+made by that Prince in a Parallel with that of the _Doge_. I now resume
+the Thread of my Narrative.
+
+The Street _Balbi_, and the _new_ Street, are more like Galleries than
+Streets. The former lies near the beautiful Church of the _Annunciation_
+and the first considerable Structure that appears in it, is the _Jesuits_
+College, of which _James Balbi_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, made a Present on
+his Death-bed to the Society, on Condition that his Arms would always
+remain over the great Gate. The Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have
+laboured much to efface this poor Remembrance of their Benefactor, and for
+this End have had great Law-Suits with the _Balbi_ Family; but at length
+they were condemn'd by an Arret of the Senate to keep up the Arms of the
+Founder, and there they still remain.
+
+The two Palaces _Purazzi_, which are in the same Street, are very
+magnificent, and richly furnished. In one of those Palaces there is a
+Theatre, called the Theatre of the _Falcon_, which is so extremely well
+laid out, that every Spectator may see and hear what passes with Ease, and
+without incommoding his Neighbour, the Boxes being large and convenient,
+and the Ornaments dispos'd every-where with Judgment.
+
+The new Street is every whit as magnificent as the Street _Balbi_. Here
+are the two Palaces _Brignole_, and indeed they are both stately
+Buildings. Their Ornaments are the finest that can be imagined, and of the
+newest Fashion: The Furniture is extremely rich, there being excellent
+Pictures by the greatest Masters, Chimney and Pier-Glasses of an
+extraordinary Size, and placed to Advantage; Tables of choice Marble upon
+Stands of an excellent Contrivance, and very richly gilt: In short, one
+wou'd not wish to see any thing more fine, and more complete. Messieurs
+_Brignole_ are four Brothers, of whom there is but one that has a Son:
+They are immensely rich, and have seven magnificent Palaces in _Genoa_.
+
+The Palace of the Duke _Doria_, which is in the same Street, is grand and
+stately; but not so richly furnished as the Palace of the Prince _Doria_,
+without the Gate of St. _Thomas_, which owes its Foundation to the
+celebrated _Doria_, who was a General of the Emperor _Charles_ V. This
+Palace is very extensive, and has a Prospect of the Sea, but the
+Apartments are low and old-fashioned.
+
+The Suburb of St. _Peter d'Arena_ is very large, and contains several
+noble Palaces, of which the Palace _Imperiali_, where the Emperor and
+Empress lodged at their Return from _Spain_, is esteemed by the
+Connoisseurs in Architecture.
+
+The People at _Genoa_ are more sociable than they are at _Venice_, and the
+Nobility here much more easy of Access. I don't believe, that they who
+accuse the _Italians_ of Jealousy, include the _Genoese_ in that Charge;
+there being few Countries in the World where the Women are allow'd more
+Freedom, and where, to all Appearance, they take more. A Woman must have
+very few Charms indeed, if she has not two or three profess'd Lovers.
+These Sparks, who go by the Name of _Cicisbei_, are never out of their
+Sight; but they take great Pains in their Amours, being obliged to run so
+fast by the Side of their Mistresses Sedan, that they earn a Glance from
+the Fair with the Sweat of their Brows. There are Ladies here, who have
+five or six of these Admirers always attending them where-ever they go;
+and 'tis happy for these Rivals, that they never fall together by the
+Ears. 'Tis true, that if they quarrel, they would be obliged to box it;
+for the Gentry here don't wear Swords, their Dress being like that of the
+Lawyers in _France_; but they always wear short silk Mantles, which I
+could wish the Counsellors of Parliament in _France_ would likewise wear,
+in order to distinguish them from Tailors and Shopkeepers.
+
+The People of Quality here dress very well, and the _Genoese_ of both
+Sexes have a much better Air than those of _Florence_ and _Rome_. The
+Princess of _Modena_'s Residence with them has not been to their
+Detriment; for they have contracted a courtly Behaviour, to which the
+_Italians_ are pretty much Strangers. The _Genoese_ in general understand
+good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing
+better. Tho' they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here
+very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the
+Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for
+a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced
+to them by the Count _Guiccardi_, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor,
+and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke
+of _Modena_, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince's
+Minister at _Vienna_, when he went into the Service of his Imperial
+Majesty. He married the Countess _Sinzendorff_, who was the Daughter of
+_Hawitz_, the Grand Marshal at _Dresden_. This Lady was a _Lutheran_; but
+being at _Vienna_, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the
+Metropolitan Church of St. _Stephen_, while she was looking upon a Picture
+of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she
+was, and scorch'd her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou'd not shew
+for all the Gold of _Peru_; but she received no other Harm, and thinking
+that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression
+upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary
+Professor.
+
+You know that the _Genoese_ are actually at War with their Subjects the
+_Corsicans_, who have newly publish'd a Manifesto of their Reasons for
+taking Arms. If all they say be true, 'tis certain they have been very ill
+used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus'd, theirs may. This War has
+already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are
+taking, 'tis to be presumed it will run them into a much greater Expence.
+The _Corsicans_ have chose one _Giafferi_ for their Leader. He is a Man of
+Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure
+his Country its Liberties; and if the _Genoese_ are not assisted by some
+Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to
+Light. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Turin, Nov. 28, 1731._
+
+The Road hither from GENOA is very bad at this time of the Year. During
+the first two Post-Stages I cross'd one River no less than thirty-two
+times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho' the
+Neighbourhood of GENOA is very mountainous, 'tis very pleasant, all the
+Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had
+travell'd about four Post-Stages, I enter'd on the Plain which brought me
+to _Turin_. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World,
+and wants nothing but Causeys.
+
+The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was ALEXANDRIA DE
+LA PAILLE, which stands on the River _Tanaro_. 'Tis a great Town, but not
+very populous. It formerly depended on the _Milanese_, and was yielded by
+the Emperor to the King of _Sardinia_, who keeps a good Garison in it, and
+has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been
+very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are
+the most considerable in _Italy_.
+
+I afterwards came to ASTI, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which
+indeed is one of the best of _Italy_, From thence I went and lay at
+QUIERI, a great Town in _Piedmont_, ill built, but full of People of
+Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was
+in so much Haste to get to TURIN, that I did not stay there. I pass'd by
+the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of MONTCALLIER, a Royal
+Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King _Victor
+Amedeus_. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the
+finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more
+worth a Traveller's View, than the Village of _Montcallier_ itself.
+
+At some Distance from this Place I cross'd the _Po_ over a wooden Bridge,
+and came thro' a pleasant Avenue to TURIN, the Capital of _Piedmont_, and
+the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of _Savoy_. Those Princes chose also
+to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which
+is what they call in _France_ the Parlement; and they have rendered it one
+of the strongest and finest Cities of _Italy_, exclusive of its charming
+Situation. 'Tis divided into two Parts, the _old_ and the _new_ City, with
+Bastions and Outworks, well fac'd, and a Citadel very regularly fortify'd.
+It stands eighteen Miles from the _Alps_, in a Plain which has the _Po_ on
+one Side, and the _Duero_ on the other.
+
+This City will always be remember'd for the Siege which it sustained in
+1704, when the Marshal and Count _Daun_, Governor of _Milan_, commanded
+here, by the Emperor's Permission, at the Request of the Duke of _Savoy_.
+He defended the Place against the Duke of _Orleans_, the Grandson of
+_France_, and gave Time to Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ to come to its
+Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The _French_ pretend,
+that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_, the Daughter of King _Victor Amedeus_, was the Person that
+prevail'd on _Lewis_ XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As
+I am not privy to what pass'd at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of
+_France_, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as
+the Belief of what the _French_ give out upon this Head is not an Article
+of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to
+Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had:
+For how can it be imagin'd, that if _Lewis_ XIV, had really a Desire, that
+his Army should decamp from before TURIN, he would have chose to have
+subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his
+Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos'd the Honour of his
+Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men,
+which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet
+would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the
+Appearance of a Flight. But the _French_ have this Notion: They were never
+routed, but 'twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be
+routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the
+Battle of _Hochstet_, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the
+Elector of _Bavaria_, and the Marshal _de Tallard_; that of _Ramillies_,
+because the Marshal _de Villeroy_ would not let the Elector of _Bavaria_
+have the Honour of beating us; that of _Audenarde_, because the Duke of
+_Vendosme_'s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of
+_Burgundy_, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. _de la Motte_, too,
+suffered himself to be beaten near _Wynendale_, only in Complaisance to
+the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to
+persuade the King his Grandfather to the Peace, which he had very much at
+Heart, if _Lisle_ was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have
+been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. _de la Motte_ had
+attack'd. The Passage of the _Scheld_, the raising of the Siege of
+_Brussels_, the Surrender of _Ghent_, without strikeing a Blow; all this
+was done also by Order of the Duke of _Burgundy_, who was for a Peace upon
+any Terms, and cou'd not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and
+Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the
+Marshals of _France_ to tell me the same Story, they would find me as
+great an Unbeliever as St. _Thomas_, and wou'd never prevail with me to be
+guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of _Burgundy_, the
+wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his
+Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.
+
+Nothing can be more regular than that Part of TURIN, which is called the
+_new City_. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets
+are wide, strait, and well-pav'd. It has fine Churches, particularly the
+Metropolis, or Chapel of the _Holy Handkerchief_, which is also the Royal
+Chapel, and may be reckon'd the Master-piece of Architecture. 'Tis in the
+Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac'd, not excepting the Roof, with black
+Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the
+precious Relique of our Lord's Handkerchief, of which there's the like in
+St. _Peter_'s Church at _Rome_, and at _Besancon_. I had been told, that I
+should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this
+Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour's Body; but I was not so happy as
+to discern any thing like it.
+
+The King's Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite
+finish'd; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv'd; The Furniture
+is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There
+are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos'd in the Manner of
+Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they
+are not much adorn'd.
+
+The finest, and the completest Thing at TURIN, and perhaps in _Europe_, in
+the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame
+Royale, the King's Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King's
+Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. 'Twas a very old Building,
+and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar'd no Cost, either in
+Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it
+happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal
+Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and
+to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This
+Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in _Italy_, and fix'd
+upon the Plans, which to her appear'd the most grand and beautiful. Before
+this Stair-case was built, they us'd to say that Madame Royale's Palace
+was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say 'tis a Stair-case
+without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou'd become the _Louvre_, it
+being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.
+
+I cou'd not get a Sight of the Castle of the _Venerie_, three Leagues from
+TURIN; for while King _Victor_ is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer'd to
+go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince's being under an
+Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform'd of what gave
+Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into
+Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.
+
+King _Victor Amedeus_, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was
+Daughter of _Philip_ of _France_, the late Duke of _Orleans_, by
+_Henrietta_ of _England_, fell in Love with the Marchioness of[24] _St.
+Sebastian_, Lady of Honour to the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_. The Virtue of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, and the King's
+Devotion for her, induc'd him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it
+honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a
+Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal
+a[25]Match. He imparted his Design to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, who did
+all she cou'd to prevail with _Victor_ to continue upon the Throne; but
+finding he was resolv'd not to make her a Queen, she consented to his
+Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour'd to become the Wife of a
+Prince, who had worn a Crown. King _Victor_ consulted with his chief
+Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis'd him not to leave the
+Throne. His Son King _Charles_ conjur'd him to keep Possession of it. _I
+protest to your Majesty_, said this Prince, _I never once indulged a Wish
+to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject_. But
+all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of _September_, 1730,
+was fix'd for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons
+in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the[26]Palace.
+There the King appear'd without any Mark of Royalty, accompany'd by the
+Prince of _Piedmont_, and declar'd to the Assembly, that he was resolv'd
+to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted
+them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had
+taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son
+_Charles_, Prince of _Piedmont_, for their King; and desir'd them to be as
+Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of
+Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis _del Borgo_,
+Secretary of State, and _Charles_ was recogniz'd for King.
+
+After the Ceremony was over, King _Victor_, with the Marchioness of _St.
+Sebastian_, whom he had married, on Condition[27] that she shou'd wear no
+other Title, set out for _Chamberry_, which he had chose for the Place of
+his Retirement. But scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of
+having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved
+as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King
+_Victor_ resign'd, he advis'd his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility
+and Gentry to be survey'd, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to
+the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho' it had a View to the Increase of
+the King's Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason,
+_Charles_ when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in
+Execution. _Victor_ being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son,
+rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and
+perceiving that _Charles_ was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained
+a Thought of reascending the Throne[28]. To this End, he secretly felt the
+Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to _Charles_:
+Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he
+knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou'd also be his Friends;
+for most of the Officers having been preferr'd by him, he did not doubt
+but they were still attach'd to him, and he flatter'd himself with their
+Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal _Rhebinder_, in
+general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting.
+This General, who was Commander in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of
+what Consequence it was to deprive King _Victor_ of the least Hopes of
+reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged
+to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: 'Your Majesty, _said the
+Marshal in his Letter_, has made me all that I am. I am under no
+Obligation to King _Charles_; but my Engagements to your Majesty are
+inexpressible; tho' of all the Favours which you have heap'd upon me, the
+Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave
+therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have
+acquir'd by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I
+shou'd forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the
+King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I
+shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last
+Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready
+to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person,
+being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me,
+but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your
+Actions, _&c._'
+
+This Answer was not sufficient to cool King _Victor_'s Ambition to resume
+the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal _de Rhebinder_, and
+to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify'd,
+that he knew how to punish those that refus'd to obey him. All these
+Letters were carried to King _Charles_, who being concerned to see his
+Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou'd you have me
+do? _He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to
+Providence._
+
+The King was still in Hopes, that he shou'd be able to make _Victor_ easy,
+and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he
+went with his Queen to _Evian_, and from thence to _Chamberry_, where
+_Charles_ paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper.
+The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he
+took leave of _Victor_, he paid a Visit to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, with
+whom he had a long Conference. He desir'd this Lady to pacify King
+_Victor_, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with
+State Affairs. _He hath made me King_, said _Charles, and King I will be.
+You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not
+like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that
+he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal_. They say
+_Charles_ dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin'd to yield
+his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis'd great
+Advantages to Madame _de St. Sebastian_, not only for herself, but for the
+Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady
+promis'd the King all that he desir'd, but kept her Word very ill; for her
+Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King _Victor_ every Day more and
+more uneasy.
+
+_Victor_ after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would
+reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be
+nearer TURIN. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of
+_Chamberry_ was bad for his Health, and desir'd him to let him go and
+reside at the Castle of _Montcallier_. _Charles_ was return'd to TURIN
+when he receiv'd this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he
+understood that the King his Father, and Madame _de St. Sebastian_, were
+already come to _Montcallier_. He was not at all sorry for it, because,
+as he knew King _Victor_'s Designs, he cou'd better observe his Motions,
+when so near him: And King _Victor_, on his Part, was glad that he was at
+_Montcallier_, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of TURIN might give him a
+better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding
+Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and
+gave such publick[29] Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that
+_Charles_'s Ministers[30], fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to
+his Assistance, unanimously advis'd the King to confine him. The young
+Prince exclaim'd several times against this Proposition. _What!_ said he,
+_make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that_: And indeed,
+it was a long time ere he cou'd agree to it; but at length he was
+prevail'd on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho', when he
+sign'd the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that
+the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it.
+
+The Count _de la Perouse_, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged
+with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King _Victor_, and had a
+Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of
+TURIN, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking.
+They all march'd out at the same Hour from their Quarters, without
+knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o'Clock next Morning they all
+came to the Place appointed at _Montcallier_. The Count _de la Perouse_,
+attended by the Chevalier _de Solare_, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards,
+at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw'd to
+their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led
+to King _Victor_'s Apartment, while the Marquis _d'Ormea_, Secretary of
+State, who carry'd the Order sign'd by King _Charles_, secur'd the
+Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. _de la Perouse_,
+finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page
+in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way
+farther, and forc'd open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where
+the King was a-bed with Madame _de St. Sebastian_. This Lady, hearing a
+Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown,
+ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm'd Men, she cry'd out, _Oh! Sir,
+we are betray'd!_ They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers
+carry'd her into the next Chamber, where they caus'd her to be dress'd,
+and afterwards conducted her to _Ceve_, a Fortress of _Piedmont_.
+
+Neither the Outcry of Madame _de St. Sebastian_, nor all the Noise that
+was made, had awak'd King _Victor_, who always slept sound. The Chevalier
+_de Solare_ seiz'd the King's Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and
+the Count _de la Perouse_ went to the Bed-side, and open'd the Curtains.
+Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask'd what was the
+Matter. The Count _de la Perouse_ said to him, That he had Orders from the
+King to arrest him. _What King do you mean?_ said _Victor_: _'Tis I that
+am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty
+has been so_, reply'd the Count, _but you are so no longer; and since it
+has pleas'd you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to
+command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such
+Obedience_. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten'd the Officers,
+and refus'd to rise. The Chevalier _de Solare_ coming too near the Bed,
+the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in
+Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise,
+the Officers lifted him. up, and dress'd him. The King was heard to say,
+in the mean time, that he only wish'd to sit two Hours on the Throne, that
+he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam'd the
+principal Lords of the Court.
+
+As soon as he was dress'd, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him
+down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard.
+The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem'd surpriz'd at
+it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent,
+seem'd no less surpriz'd, when they saw their old King was to be carry'd
+off a Prisoner. _What! Our King!_ said they softly to each other, _What
+has he done? What is the Matter?_ The Count _de la Perouse_, fearing a
+Mutiny, call'd out _Silence_, in the King's Name, _on Pain of Death_. The
+old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he
+had always valu'd above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected
+him, and he wou'd have spoke to it; but no Time was allow'd him, and he
+was oblig'd to go into the Coach. The Count _de la Perouse_, and the
+Chevalier _de Solare_, ask'd his Leave to sit with him; but the King
+answer'd, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode
+by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and
+conducted him to _Rivoli_. I had almost forgot to tell you, that when he
+went from _Montcallier_, he ask'd for three Things; his Wife, his Papers,
+and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain'd.
+
+The Day after he came to _Rivoli_, as they were clapping iron Bars, and
+double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask'd the
+Glazier what he was going to do! _I am going_, said the Man, _to put on
+double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn't catch Cold this Winter_.
+_How now, Varlet!_ said the King, _Do you think I shall spend all the
+Winter here?_ _Ah! by my Faith_, reply'd the Glazier, _you will pass this
+winter here, and I believe many more_.
+
+This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to
+his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier _de
+Solare_, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he
+sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all
+manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints[31].
+
+In the whole Course of this Affair, 'tis fortunate for King _Charles_,
+that not one of his Subjects has fail'd in his Allegiance to him; he has
+not been oblig'd to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has
+he caus'd above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King
+_Victor_'s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately
+set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored
+between the father and the Son.
+
+They say, that Madame _de St. Sebastian_ is fallen into a deep Melancholy;
+and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After
+her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen
+at Court. The young King missing him, ordered the Marquis _d'Ormea_,
+Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to
+Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he
+did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever,
+which Madame _de St. Sebastian_ had committed, and that he would take Care
+of his Fortune.
+
+The _Piedmontese_ are charm'd with their new King, and indeed, he is a
+Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane,
+compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in
+Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and
+particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a
+great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, 'tis only owing to the
+Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible.
+
+The Queen[32] is of the Family of _Hesse Rhinfels_. She is tall and
+slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very
+fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and
+ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is
+the Mother of two lovely[33] Princes, and a Princess, and seems very
+attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth.
+
+The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is
+observed at the Court of _France_, The King and Queen always eat together,
+and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The
+Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the
+Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to
+attend her, who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a
+Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the
+young Princess of _Carignan_, and the Queen's youngest Sister, sitting on
+Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen's Chair; and all
+the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds
+for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and
+Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where
+there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the
+Marchioness _de Prie_, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the
+_Netherlands_, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes
+present.
+
+There's an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be
+enjoy'd in all _Italy_ besides; and the _Piedmontese_ don't think
+themselves _Italians_; so that I am often ask'd, Whether I came last from
+_Italy_? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City
+better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the _French_ Manners
+with the _Italians_ is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live
+well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very
+civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal _de la Rhebinder_ is
+particularly noted. This General is a Native of _Livonia_: He commanded
+the Elector Palatine's Troops in _Italy_, and then went into the Service
+of the Duke of _Savoy_, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a
+foreign Regiment of Foot. King _Victor_ created him a Velt-Marshal, and he
+is actually Commander in Chief of the King of _Sardinia_'s Troops.
+
+The Marquis _d'Ormea_ is the Chief or President of the Council, first
+Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the
+Confidence of King _Victor_. That Prince had sent him to _Rome_, where
+the Marquis _d'Ormea_ obtained great Advantages of Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices.
+This Minister was recall'd in the first Year of the Pontificate of
+_Clement_ XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that
+his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King _Victor_'s Abdication he
+returned to TURIN. King _Charles_ does nothing without him. He is a
+Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his
+Promises. I knew him at _Rome_, and have the Honour of seeing him here as
+often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my
+Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not
+always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This
+Minister has a Brother a[34]Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very
+lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the
+Steps of his Father.
+
+The Youth here don't seem to be so hair-brain'd as they are elsewhere: I
+don't know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so
+in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his
+Children to the University here, than which I question whether there's a
+better in _Europe_, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises,
+as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed
+in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which
+the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the
+other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow'd to go abroad
+on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go
+where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.
+
+The Out-parts of TURIN are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned
+with a great many pretty _Cassines_ or Pleasure-Houses, which are only
+separated by Meadows, that are constantly water'd by a Number of little
+Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the _Esplanade_, between the City
+and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very
+pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the _Piedmontese_
+Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave
+them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone.
+I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at _Lyons_, if I don't stay at
+_Chamberry_; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don't fail to write
+to me at _Paris_, and believe me to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Lyons, March 2, 1732._
+
+Tho' I had pass'd Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers'd _Savoy_, yet I
+thought the Passage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily
+glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put
+together.
+
+From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pass'd by the Castle
+of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there's an Avenue
+from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell'd
+thro' SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a
+River form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as
+it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which 'tis
+built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which
+King _Victor Amedeus_ caus'd to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_.
+Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. 'Tis provided with a
+good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been
+built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his
+Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have passed the
+Mountains.
+
+LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more
+disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their
+Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other
+Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by
+four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me
+upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to
+Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
+
+At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I
+thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain'd, and
+other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to
+receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable
+Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this
+Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends
+may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their
+greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
+fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the
+Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time
+People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country
+People call _se faire ramasser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious
+and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly
+faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay'd a Week together at
+_Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again
+and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire ramasser_.
+
+LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is
+oblig'd to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don't travel Post,
+and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to
+this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides
+the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which
+is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is
+bury'd, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices:
+There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a
+Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which
+the Horses were kill'd, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which
+consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of
+_Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho' he was not at
+all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou'd
+actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder'd
+him.
+
+I pass'd thro' several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth
+mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because 'tis the See of a
+Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; 'tis a very antient
+County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley
+extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the
+_Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_.
+
+CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must
+expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet
+the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; 'tis situate
+on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompass'd
+with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There's a
+great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money'd Men; yet
+they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The
+Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People
+good-natur'd and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good
+Sort of People. They are accus'd of being too thrifty, but perhaps 'tis
+more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig'd to
+support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune,
+he is forc'd to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
+
+At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high
+Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I
+saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not
+Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but,
+judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the
+Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the
+Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and
+magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether
+he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use
+of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high
+Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both
+Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of
+the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass'd, it
+was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the
+Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
+
+This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the
+Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass'd
+to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of
+_France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here,
+the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a
+Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which
+belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of
+the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_
+by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore
+the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_,
+finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of
+_France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St.
+_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of
+good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated
+Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author
+of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him
+resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a
+secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope
+with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the
+Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to
+reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad
+Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to
+injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour
+to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son
+of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has
+been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the
+Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a
+Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at
+_Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this
+City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd.
+
+LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to
++Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Saon_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_
+washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are
+industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in
+_France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They
+endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but
+they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop,
+who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M.
+_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the
+XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in
+Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its
+Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the
+_Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of
+the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second
+Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of
+_Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the
+Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de
+Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter
+Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those
+hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_
+have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very
+great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so
+that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as
+much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for
+the Province, and for the City in particular.
+
+They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first
+_Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of
+_Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not
+without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs,
+and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops,
+who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is
+inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by
+several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of
+seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons
+of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and
+twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_,
+for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their
+Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom
+King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is
+known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this
+Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been
+Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevot des Marchands_ of the City of
+_Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of
+State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family
+who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur
+_de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_,
+had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of
+_Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as
+Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of
+_Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because
+he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King
+found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the
+Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone
+which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_.
+The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
+would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was
+applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next
+Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's
+(+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this,
+the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal
+Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the
+Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by
+the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded
+by M. _de Rochebonne_.
+
+The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor
+of the City, is the _Prevot des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for
+any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as
+strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd
+to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an
+Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at
+last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The
+Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I
+imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
+
+The _Prevot des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when
+he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think,
+that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so
+vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the
+same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in
+which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.
+
+I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I
+have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevot des Marchands_. I have been to
+make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I
+have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People
+of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few Nobility. The
+Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine
+Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so
+little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the
+_Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as
+to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me
+very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and
+the Bottle.
+
+The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the
+best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if
+they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one
+of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a
+Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago
+was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste
+wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this
+superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the
+Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An
+Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better
+employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron,
+remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year,
+that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer,
+that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd
+be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not
+thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of
+this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that
+Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her
+Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes
+the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.
+
+I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le
+Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a
+great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of
+Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without
+acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide
+as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated;
+and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same
+Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the
+Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on
+Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription
+than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great
+deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_,
+who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it
+the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the
+Original.
+
+There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of
+Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and
+magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in
+Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the
+Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great
+Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                            LETTER XXXVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Paris, March 20, 1732._
+
+For the sake of good Wine I preferr'd the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before
+the great Road from _Lyons_ thro' _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv'd
+for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos'd on, and
+did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in
+all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my
+Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the
+Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to
+_Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I
+happen'd to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very
+amiable Gentlemen. We pass'd by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Principality
+of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by
+Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of
+_Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render'd herself
+famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the
+Cannon to be fir'd from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who
+never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her
+wou'd never give her leave to marry[38]. 'Twas to reconcile the King to
+her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a
+Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed
+there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.
+
+After having pass'd _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and
+Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that 'tis
+possible to imagine. We din'd very much in Haste at a Village, and went
+and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral
+have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at
+_Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and
+whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to
+see.
+
+CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear
+to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the
+Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew'd the
+Apartment where the Duchess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the
+Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit
+which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers:
+'Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of
+making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall'd by any Princess
+of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she
+fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig'd to live in a miserable Castle,
+with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend
+her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this
+Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.
+
+From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pass'd thro' _Beaune_, and
+along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my
+Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to
+be: 'Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no
+great Appearance, tho' they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In
+the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal
+Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the
+Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows,
+which, if the Houses were higher, wou'd make a fine Sight. This Street
+leads to the Place Royale, in which there's an Equestrian Statue of the
+late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac'd on so high a Pedestal, that it even
+raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which
+moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses
+are actually very low, and if they were to be carry'd higher, the Statue
+would look as if it were imprison'd in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was
+cast in _Paris_, and first carry'd by Water to _Auxerre_, where it
+remain'd a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a
+manner immoveable; but at last it was remov'd by Land Carriage to _Dijon_,
+but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it
+appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.
+
+This Statue faces the _King's House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_,
+Governor of the Province. 'Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc'd
+Wings, but can only be reckon'd a very irregular Structure. I did not go
+to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish'd,
+and not worth the Trouble of a View.
+
+The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the
+vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there
+heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously
+accommodated.
+
+_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late
+Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was
+very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.
+
+The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really
+neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above
+civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their
+Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know
+what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him,
+puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists
+generally of Persons of Quality.
+
+The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_
+Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never
+comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count _de
+Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in
+his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.
+Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and
+I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a
+more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to
+which I was forc'd to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I
+went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall
+was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would
+have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it
+resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.
+
+From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of
+an Archbishop; and that's all I can say of it, because I only staid there
+to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where
+the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially
+of Women, who all seem'd very much enrag'd. This was owing to a
+Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify'd her
+Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which
+induc'd her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was
+about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the
+scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a
+Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker's Wife, who was
+old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband's
+Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the
+very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for
+her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen'd just as
+I arriv'd at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed
+against the Baker's Wife, and hurry'd the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women
+curs'd her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something
+perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their
+Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.
+
+FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pass'd thro', is fourteen Leagues
+from _Paris_. There's a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the
+Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for
+the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings
+from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to
+it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There's a great
+Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent
+for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the
+cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus'd
+her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be
+assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters,
+which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach'd him for his
+Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy
+Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in
+vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an
+Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose:
+Indeed, rather than be oblig'd to manifest his Resentment, he chose to
+keep a profound Silence; but tho' he dissembled it as much as possible,
+_Christina_ perceiv'd, that she had staid too long at his Court, and
+resolv'd to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died.
+
+But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant,
+grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_
+XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry'd the Queen by Proxy, at
+_Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a
+League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of
+the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.
+When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other,
+they advanc'd a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp'd; when their
+Majesties alighted, and walk'd to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen
+came near to the King, she kneel'd down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet,
+seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_
+rais'd her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her:
+The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv'd them with
+such a good-natur'd, modest Air, as prepossess'd the whole Court in her
+Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself
+on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac'd themselves
+according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late
+Duchess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ'd in
+the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to
+the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the
+Duchess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_,
+was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became
+general. When they arriv'd at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by
+the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen's Closet: There the King
+talk'd; and after having stay'd about an Hour, he return'd to
+_Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out
+from thence.
+
+The next Morning, at Eight o'Clock, the Queen arriv'd at _Fontainebleau_,
+without any other Retinue than what she had during her whole Journey.
+Being in an Undress, she went strait to her Apartment, and sat down to
+the Toilet; when she was dress'd, Word was brought to her, that the King
+was arriv'd; who, in a few Moments after, made his Appearance, in a Mantle
+of Gold Brocade, trimm'd with _Spanish_ Point of Gold, the whole enrich'd
+with Diamonds. His Majesty, having saluted the Queen, walk'd the same
+Instant towards the Chapel, and the Queen follow'd immediately after him,
+supported by the Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_: She was dress'd in a
+Blue Velvet Gown, seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold; her Petticoat, and
+the Tail of her Gown, were fac'd with Ermin, and adorned with Diamonds;
+and her Royal Mantle, which was like her Gown, was held up by the
+Princesses of the Blood. She had the Royal Crown on her Head; and 'tis
+certain, that every thing about her was truly magnificent, and made a very
+grand Appearance. The Chapel was adorn'd with a rich Suit of Hangings, of
+blue Velvet, imbroider'd with Gold. The Elector of _Cologne_, the
+Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, now Elector, the Duke _Ferdinand_, and the
+Bishop of _Freisingen_ and _Ratisbon_, were present _incognito_ at the
+Ceremony. The Cardinal _de Rohan_ gave their Majesties the Nuptial
+Benediction. The Queen happening to be out of Order during the Mass, the
+Duke of _Bourbon_, who perceiv'd it, gave her some Balm-water, by which
+her Majesty found immediate Relief.
+
+After Mass was ended, they return'd in great Ceremony to the Queen's
+Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and
+Princesses din'd with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the
+Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be
+smother'd, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.
+
+When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang'd their Apparel, and took
+an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal,
+preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King's
+Houshold, and follow'd by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses.
+But 'tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent
+than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their
+Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new
+Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted.
+
+When the King and Queen were return'd to the Palace, there was a
+Drawing-room; after which, their Majesties supp'd with the Princesses of
+the Blood; and during the Supper, there was a Concert. When their
+Majesties arose from Table, they went to the Windows, and saw the
+Firework, and the Illumination in the Park; which was very much admir'd,
+but really appear'd trifling to us _Germans_, who are accustom'd to see
+Fireworks that cost immense Sums, and which are executed in a Manner that
+surpasses every thing done elsewhere of the Kind. Thus ended all the
+Rejoicings upon account of the King's Marriage. They say there were great
+Illuminations and Bonfires also at _Paris_; but as I was at
+_Fontainebleau_, I did not see them. 'Tis certain tho', that how much
+soever the _French_ were pleas'd with the Marriage of their King, they
+were in no very great Humour to rejoice at a Time when a Pound of Bread
+cost eleven Sols, and few were they that had a Belly-full. 'Tis no
+laughing Matter, when the Guts grumble. But I leave this long Digression,
+and resume the Thread of my Narrative, by proceeding with the Description
+of _Fontainebleau_.
+
+This Royal Palace is accompanied with a fine Park, which, tho' not near so
+much adorned as the Park of _Versailles_, has remarkable Beauties, not to
+be met with in that. The great Canal is superb, and, generally speaking,
+the Palace of _Fontainebleau_, with all that environs it, has much more of
+the Air of a Royal Palace, than _Versailles_ and _Marly_. The Village or
+Town of _Fontainebleau_, for I know not which to call it, is very well
+built. Most of the Lords have great Houses here, where they put their
+Equipages and Domesticks; it being the Custom at the Court of _France_,
+for every Lord that belongs to the Court to be lodg'd in the King's
+Palace; and the _French_ are so infatuated with this Practice, that a
+Nobleman had rather be lodg'd in a Manger at Court, than in an Apartment
+ever so commodious and magnificent, in his House at _Versailles_ and
+_Fontainebleau_.
+
+The Road from _Fontainebleau_ to _Paris_ is pav'd all the Way. There are a
+great many fine Houses on it, particularly PETITBOURG, belonging to the
+Duke _d'Antin_, to whom it came by Succession, from his Mother, the
+Marchioness _Montespan_. Very great Buildings have been erected there
+within these few Years, which have the Appearance of Magnificence and
+Grandeur; not to mention the rich Furniture, the Pleasures of the Park,
+and several other Things, so ingeniously chose, and so beautifully
+dispos'd, as are infinitely delightful.
+
+CHOISY, which belongs to the first Princess Dowager of _Conti_, Daughter
+of _Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_, is, to my thinking, one
+of the finest Houses in the Kingdom. 'Tis built intirely in the modern
+Taste, and stands by the River Side. The Apartments are richly adorn'd.
+The Garden which belongs to it is spacious, and several Alleys are cut
+out in it, which yield very fine Walks, and render _Choisy_ an inchanting
+Place. Were I to mention all the other fine Houses to you that are upon
+the Road, I should never have done. If you consult the _Delices de la
+France_, you will find a large Account of all those Houses, as well as of
+their Names and Situation. For my part, my Head akes so much at this
+Instant, that 'tis impossible for me to add any more: But in a few Days,
+you shall hear farther from me; and then I will give you some Account of
+_Paris_: In the meantime, believe me to be always Yours intirely, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XXXIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Paris, April 1, 1732._
+
+Don't imagine, that I am going to give you an exact Description of the
+City of PARIS; for that would be an Undertaking to as little Purpose, as
+it is beyond my Ability. PARIS has been so fully describ'd, and is so much
+talk'd of, that most People know what Sort of Place it is, though they
+have never seen it. Several Authors are so divided about the Antiquity of
+PARIS, that I can say nothing positive to you upon this Head. _Caesar_, in
+his Commentaries, speaks very much in its Favour, and says, that in his
+Time, this City was call'd _Lutetia_. The Learned differ also about the
+Origin of this[41]Name; but I shall leave them to dispute this Matter as
+long as they please, and assure them, that I am not concerned in their
+Quarrel.
+
+According to Father _Daniel_, PARIS was the Capital City of _France_, in
+the Reign of _Clovis_, about the Year 507. But even then, PARIS was a
+Place of very little Consequence; and, if it be duly consider'd, could not
+be rank'd among the great Towns, before the Reign of _Philip Augustus_;
+That Prince made it his Endeavour to embellish it, and added Buildings to
+it, which at that Time were reckon'd very magnificent. Since his Reign,
+PARIS has always been the Seat of the Kings, and has been continually
+increasing in Grandeur and Beauty. But none of its Kings has contributed
+so much to the Magnificence of PARIS, as the Prince who least resided in
+it, I mean _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd such Structures to be rais'd in it, as
+are worthy of the greatest Monarch in the World. Of some of these Works, I
+may hereafter give you a more particular Account.
+
+The _French_ pretend, that no City in _Europe_ contains so many
+Inhabitants as PARIS; but the _English_ say, the most populous is
+_London_; yet, without the least Hesitation, I determine it for the latter
+of the two Rivals. My Reason for it is this: At PARIS, eighteen or twenty
+thousand People die every Year, and at _London_ twenty-three or
+twenty-four thousand; tho' I don't dispute, but PARIS seems more populous:
+For in the latter, every body is to be seen in the Streets, either on Foot
+or in Coaches; whereas at _London_, Passengers are continually going up
+and down the _Thames_; which River is seldom without carrying forty or
+fifty thousand People, who, if diffus'd in the Streets, would make them
+look fuller of People than those of PARIS. Besides, what makes the Capital
+of _France_ appear to be more populous, is, that it has more Coaches and
+Carts; whereas at _London_, one always sees Goods going up or down the
+River; which is the Reason, that Carts are not so much in Use there: And
+most of the Ladies, instead of Coaches, ride in Sedans. But a _Frenchman_
+will tell me, you shall see five or six Families in one House at PARIS;
+whereas at _London_, they are seldom two. To this I shall answer, that
+'tis true, there are more Lodgers in the Houses of PARIS; but this stands
+for nothing, and only proves, that there are more Houses at _London_. At
+PARIS, there are many Hotels, or great Houses, Convents, large Gardens,
+public Squares, Quays, and a River that runs through the Middle; all which
+takes up a great deal of Ground; and in several of the Suburbs, without
+which PARIS itself is but a little Place, there are intire Marshes. But at
+_London_,'tis quite otherwise, such Hotels are uncommon there, and few
+Houses there have Courts to them. They are all very much pent up, and many
+a House at _London_ is not so big as the Halls in a great many of the
+Hotels at PARIS.
+
+But what matters it, whether _London_ is bigger or less than PARIS? I
+shall now speak of the latter, not as the biggest, but as the most
+beautiful City in _Europe_. 'Tis reckon'd, there are in PARIS nine
+hundred Streets, with above twenty thousand Houses, of which four thousand
+have great Gates, and Courts to turn Coaches in. The Number of Inhabitants
+amounts to above eighty thousand; in which must be reckon'd one hundred
+and fifty thousand Domestics. There are at least twenty thousand Coaches,
+and near one hundred and twenty thousand Horses for Carriages of all
+Sorts, of which, one Year with another, ten thousand die. In fine, the
+very Expence of the Lanthorns, which are lighted nine Months in the Year,
+is computed at two hundred thousand Crowns at least. The common Revenues
+which the City of PARIS produces, are said to amount at least to
+twenty-eight Millions of Livres; a Sum, which, I believe, is not rais'd by
+some Kingdoms.
+
+PARIS enjoys all the Prerogatives that can be enjoy'd by the Capital of a
+powerful Kingdom. This City has not only the Reputation of being the
+Residence of Kings, but is the Seat of an Archbishop, a Parliament, an
+University, an Intendant, a Governor, and of all the Sovereign Courts in
+the Government. Its Metropolitan Church, which was heretofore no more than
+the See of a Bishop, Suffragan to the Archbishop of _Sens_, is dedicated
+to the Virgin _Mary_. St. _Denys_, who liv'd in the first Ages of
+Christianity, is own'd to be its Founder, or at least its first Bishop.
+Its first Archbishop was _Francis de Gondy_, who obtain'd that Dignity by
+a Bull of Pope _Gregory_ XV. in 1622. since which Time there have been
+seven Archbishops. Whoever is the Archbishop, has the Title of Duke of St.
+_Cloud_, and in that Quality is both Duke and Peer of _France_. The
+present Archbishop's Name is _N. N. de Vintimille_ of the Counts _du Luc_.
+He succeeded _Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal _de Noailles_, and finds his Diocese
+as disobedient to his Mandates, as it was to those of his Predecessor.
+The good Prelate does all he can, to bring back his[42]stray'd Sheep; but
+it seems as if most of the _Parisians_ know not what they would be at; and
+indeed the greatest Number dispute about Matters, which they don't
+understand. I find the Talk of all PARIS engross'd by two grand Subjects;
+I mean grand for the _Parisians_, and, if I may venture to say it, for the
+_French_ in general: For, to be plain, 'tis owing to the Want of something
+else to talk of during a long Peace, that they busy themselves very
+seriously about Things, which at other Times they would think unworthy of
+their Attention. The one is the Affair of Father _Girard_ and _la
+Cadiere_; the other, the pretended Miracles of the Abbe _Paris_. There is
+nothing so base, with which Knavery and a furious Zeal can inspire a
+Party, but what has been said and written on these Subjects. The Enemies
+of the _Jesuits_ have[43]invented, that Father _John Baptist Girard_, a
+Native of _Dole_ in _Franche Comte_, debauch'd one _la Cadiere_, who came
+to him for Confession; they prevail'd on the young Woman to accuse him of
+Crimes, the very Idea of which is shocking, and which the most resolute
+Villain would not dare perhaps to be guilty of, much less Father _Girard_;
+who, till accus'd of this Wickedness, had always _pass'd_ for an honest
+Man, whose Conduct and Morals had been edifying in Places where he had
+been, and particularly at _Toulon_, where nevertheless he is said to have
+committed the most horrid Enormities. But _la Cadiere_ has recanted; and
+the Parlement of _Aix_, before whom the Cause was pleaded, has declar'd
+Father _Girard_ innocent. Yet the _Jansenists_ exclaim, and wish that the
+King would cause the Members of that Parlement to be hang'd up, because
+they could not in Conscience bring in Father _Girard_ guilty.
+
+The following _Epigram_ is lately publish'd upon that Parlement:
+
+      _Pour avoir immole le Fils du Tout-Puissant
+      +Pilate+ moins que vous nous parut detestable;
+      Il ne recut point d'or pour punir l'Innocent,
+      Mais vous en recevez pour sauver le coupable._
+
+                                _i. e._
+
+_Pilate_, tho' he sacrific'd the Son of the Almighty, is even less
+detestable in our Eyes than you; for he receiv'd no Gold to punish the
+Innocent, but you take it to save the Guilty.
+
+                                Or thus:
+
+      _Of Judges that in Judgment sit,
+        Whether incurs most Banns,
+      He that for Gold doth Vice acquit,
+        Or Virtue +gratis+ damns?_
+
+      _+Pilate+, who sacrific'd the Son
+      Of the Almighty Lord,
+      Because no Golden Bribe he won,
+      Is less than you abhorr'd._
+
+Father _Girard_'s Adventure calls to my Mind a great Scandal of this
+Nature, that happen'd in the fourth Century, on Occasion of a Lady's
+Confession to a Deacon; which obliged the Patriarch _Nectarius_ to abolish
+Auricular Confession throughout the _East_; as may be seen in the fourth
+Tome of _Fleuri_'s _Ecclesiastical History_. This Author, in his Sixteenth
+Tome, says, that in the twelfth Century there were Abbesses in _Spain_,
+who preach'd, gave Blessings, and confessed Persons of both Sexes. If this
+Practice was re-establish'd, there would be no Room to fear such Disorders
+and Scandals as have happen'd in _Provence_.
+
+The second Topic, which takes up a great deal of the _Parisians_
+Conversation, is the pretended Miracles of the Sieur _Paris_, to whose
+Tomb People flock as much as they could be suppos'd to do to the _Holy
+Sepulchre_ itself. Curiosity drew me thither as well as others; and I
+found such a vast Crowd of People, that 'twas with much ado I could get to
+the Stone which covers the Saint of the Populace. While I was looking at
+this Tombstone, I heard 'em cry behind, _Stand by, make Room there_; so
+that I thought some Prince of the Blood was coming; but 'twas no more than
+a mean-looking Fellow, who, with a very contrite Air, went and stretch'd
+himself on the Tomb; where he had not lain many Moments, but I saw him
+turn up the Whites of his Eyes, grind his Teeth, foam at the Mouth, and
+twist his Body into such Postures, that he look'd more like one that had
+the Devil in him, than the Favourite of a Saint. These Agitations lasted
+as long as the Man had any Strength; after which he was carry'd off, and
+I assure you, that when he was taken from the Tomb, he had a much more
+sickly Look than when he came to it. Nevertheless the People bawl'd out,
+_A Miracle!_ and I even heard it said, _Who can doubt one Moment, after so
+manifest a Cure as this, that +Paris+ is a Saint!_
+
+Such Miracles, as this that I have now related to you, are work'd here
+every Day: One can't set a Foot into a House, without being entertain'd
+with some new Story plac'd to the Accompt of the Abbe _Paris_; yet I
+protest, that not one single Miracle has been prov'd: and M. _Herault_,
+the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whom all these Miracles are
+reported, said, in my Hearing, that there was not one of them true; that
+'twas a palpable Delusion; and that 'twas only tolerated, the better to
+trace it up to its Source, and to undeceive the Populace; which, I
+believe, will be no easy Matter, they are so much prepossess'd in Favour
+of their Saint. The only Way would be for the Pope to canonise the Sieur
+_Paris_, and then I am persuaded, that all the Devotees of this new Saint
+wou'd abandon him, rather than be in the Holy Father's Mess. But here I
+leave both Father _Girard_ and the Abbe _Paris_, though perhaps I shall
+find an Opportunity of discovering all that I may hear of them to you,
+when I think it worthy of your Regard; but I shall be far from troubling
+you with every impertinent Tale that is reread about them; for I verily
+believe, that all the Songs and Verses that are made upon them wou'd form
+several Volumes: And it must be expected this Humour will last, till
+something new starts up to drown both these Subjects of present
+Conversation. I own to you, that I am very much in Pain to think what the
+_French_ can have to amuse them after this is over; for their Genius is
+such, that it must have something to work upon, tho' 'tis happy for them
+that a mere Nothing suffices, and that such Nothing is always treated by
+them as a serious Affair, and proves to them an inexhaustible Fund of
+Something.
+
+You ask me, how I employ my Time here? which is a Question that is not
+very soon answer'd. My Amusements are of such various Kinds, that, to be
+plain with you, I find myself at a loss to account for them. I should
+often be very much puzzled to prove an _alibi_ of two Days. This Country
+is my Centre, and PARIS is to me the Spring of Youth. Never was any
+Reflection more mortifying to me, than the Thought that I am not in a
+Condition to fix my Habitation here; for tho' I find Faults in the
+_French_, as well as in all other Nations, yet I acknowledge they have a
+thousand good Qualities; and I think them much more amiable at home than
+they are abroad, where, be a Man ever so much prepossess'd in their Favour
+upon other Accounts, he is surfeited with their eternal Criticisms, and to
+hear them incessantly remarking, _They don't do so at +Paris+. You don't
+see this in +France+_. Here they are polite, good-natur'd, humane, civil
+and engaging; and a Foreigner, who can bring himself ever so little into
+their Way of Thinking, Acting, and Speaking, will always be sorry to leave
+them.
+
+But I am not about giving you the Character of the _French_; what I am now
+to acquaint you with is, how I live with them. In a very irregular Course
+of Life, I aim at a certain Regularity: I rise very late, because I don't
+go to Bed till Two or Three o'Clock in the Morning: When I am dress'd, I
+go to some Cabinet of Curiosities, some Library, or to some Structure or
+other, which, tho' I have seen perhaps an hundred times, I revisit with
+Pleasure, because I always find some new Beauty in it. Such are the Hotel
+or Hospital of the _Invalids_, founded and built by _Lewis_ XIV. _Val de
+Grace_, the Church which is the Repositary of the Hearts and Bowels of the
+Kings and Princes of the Royal Family, and was founded by _Anne_ of
+_Austria_, Mother to _Lewis_ XIV. the Choir of _Notre Dame_, adorn'd with
+Marble and Brass by _Lewis_ XIV. to fulfill a Vow made by King _Lewis_
+XIII. his Father; the _Louvre_, with all the Beauties it contains; and, in
+fine, a Number of other stately Fabrics, which I don't mention or describe
+to you, because a thousand Authors have already given a better Account of
+them, than I am able to do. After having thus saunter'd away two or three
+Hours, I return home to Dinner; for I rarely dine abroad: When I have
+din'd, if I am alone, I read for an Hour or two; after which I go out,
+either to make Visits, or else to take the Air. I often go to their Plays,
+not only because I have a Taste that way, but to avoid Gaming; for you
+can't go into a House, but they bring out the Cards. After the Comedy is
+over, which I am forc'd, whether I will or not, to prefer to the Opera, I
+go to some House, where there's no saying nay, but I must make one at
+Quadrille, to ease me of my Money; for I know not what 'tis to win. I am
+entertain'd with a good Supper, and then I join in a second Party at
+Quadrille, and sometimes in a third; and go home at three o'Clock in the
+Morning, with an empty Pocket.
+
+This Itch for Gaming, which has infected the Generality of the _French_,
+is look'd upon as one of the Plagues of the Nation. I can't imagine how
+'tis possible for People, who can scarce stay a Quarter of an Hour in one
+Place, but are generally restless where-ever they are, to sit five or six
+Hours together in cutting and shuffling the Cards. 'Tis however a
+necessary Evil, especially for a Foreigner, who must otherwise make a very
+silly Figure, till he is quite initiated in the Customs of the Country.
+The Ladies say of a Man who does not play, that he is a useless Piece of
+Lumber; and the most flaming Lovers cease to make Love, as soon as Cards
+are brought upon the Carpet.
+
+There are some Houses however, where this Passion for Gaming is not quite
+so prevalent; 'tis said too, that the Lawyers Houses are not so liable to
+the Contagion; but I own, I am not conversant enough with them to know the
+Difference. 'Tis certain, that at Court they play deeper than any-where,
+and very many of the Nobility have impair'd their Fortunes, for the sake
+of having the Honour to be one of a Party with the King. His Majesty
+commonly plays at Lansquenet; the Party consists of twelve Cutters, who
+set a _Lewis d'Or_ upon the Card. The King, and the principal Gamesters,
+as the Count _de Tholouse_, the Duke _d'Antin_, the Duke _de Grammont_,
+and the like, set two, and sometimes four _Lewis d'Ors_ upon a Stake. The
+King is reckon'd to have the best Luck of all that play in the Queen's
+Apartment: Any body that is well dress'd is admitted to make one of the
+Company, which forms a great Court, tho' a mix'd Assembly. All the Ladies
+sit round the Gaming-table, and the Men stand. The _French_ say, that
+Gaming sets every body upon a Level. There's one _S. Remi_, who had been a
+Lacquey first to the Marshal _d'Estree_'s Lady, and then to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_, who preferr'd him to be his _Valet de Chambre_, and at the
+Queen's Arrival gave him a Post in her Majesty's Houshold, which he held
+at the same time that he officiated as the Duke's _Valet de Chambre_: I
+have seen this Man raise or fall the Mirth of the King's Company at
+Pleasure; 'tis true, he does not cut; but he is at every Card, and makes
+very good Pastime. At _Fontainebleau_, I heard him one Day bet the King
+twenty _Lewis d'Ors_, upon his own Card against his Majesty's. The King
+answer'd coolly, _No, Marquis_; which is a Nickname that his Majefty has
+given him, and may nevertheless be transmitted to the Posterity of this
+_S. Remi_, who is moreover Fop enough to be a Marquis.
+
+This Medley of People at Play has been the Custom in _France_ at all
+times. I remember to have heard the late Mother of the Regent say, That
+when she went upon a time from _Versailles_, where she resided with the
+King, to see her Husband, _Lewis_ XIV's Brother, who was gone to spend a
+few Days at St. _Cloud_, she found him playing at Lansquenet with a dozen
+Cutters, of whom she knew but two; and when the Game was out, she ask'd
+her Husband, who the People were that he had been playing with: _They are
+very honest Fellows_, reply'd the Prince, _good substantial Tradesmen of
++Paris+, who play well, and for a great deal of Money_. The old Lady gave
+us moreover to understand, that she had not been at that time long in
+_France_, and that she was so vex'd to find her Husband in such Company,
+that she cou'd not forbear to upbraid him for it; but her Husband turn'd
+it all off with a Laugh, and made her Answer, _That she had still a Spice
+of the +German+ Haughtiness, but that it would wear off in Time_.
+
+'Tis certain however, that this Liberty, with which all Sorts of People
+are indulg'd, of coming in for a Game and away, renders them fawcy. That
+noted Comedian _Baron_, the greatest Coxcomb of all Men living before the
+_Quinaults_, was one Day at the House of the Prince _de Conti_, the same
+that had been chose King of _Poland_, where they were playing at
+Lansquenet. _Baron_, pulling his Purse out with a careless Air, said to
+the Prince, _Ten Lewis D'Ors upon the Knave, +M. de Conti+. Done,
++Britannicus+_, said the Prince _de Conti_, who knew that _Baron_ had
+been just acting that Part in a Play. It is certain, that at many of the
+Womens Houses, the Gamesters are as much pamper'd as a Father Confessor is
+by his Female Votary. A greet many Houses subsist here by the Emoluments
+of Gaming, where, were it not for the Money arising from their Cards,
+their Suppers would be very light, and many that now ride wou'd go on
+Foot. The Duke _de Gevres_, Governor of _Paris_, and the Prince _de
+Carignan_, who have a Grant for licensing all manner of Gaming, have
+farm'd it out, and get 120,000 Livres a-piece by it clear Money; which one
+shall hardly find in any City in the World.
+
+This Gaming puts me in mind of a Lottery they have here every Month, which
+is a Sort of Game too, where the Banker is the greatest Gainer. These
+Lotteries have been set on foot by the Parson of the Parish of St.
+_Sulpice_, to help build his Church, and twenty Sols is the Price of each
+Ticket; but they prove the utter Undoing of many a Lacquey and
+Maid-Servant; which made a Friend of mine say, that the Parson of St.
+_Sulpice_, out of Gratitude to the poor Devils, for burying their Wages in
+his Lottery, could do no less, when they die, than bury their Carcases for
+nothing. This Lottery is worth to the Parson about 20,000 Livres a Month,
+besides the Sums he gets from the pious Contributions of several Persons
+zealous for the House of God: Nevertheless these Works go on so slowly,
+that the Parson's Trowel is not like to be laid aside yet-a-while, tho',
+if his Church be ever finished, 'twill be the greatest and the finest in
+the Kingdom; for all the new Works are design'd by _Giles Maria Oppenord_,
+the Duke of _Orleans_'s chief Architect, and one of the most skilful of
+his Profession in _France_.
+
+The Parsonage of St. _Sulpice_ is the most considerable, not only of
+_Paris_, but perhaps of _Europe_; for it brings in the Parson as much as
+some good Dioceses do their Bishops. The Right of Presentation to it is in
+the Abbat and Friers of the Abbey of St. _Germain_. The present Incumbent
+is M. _Languet de Gergy_, who has one Brother that is Bishop of
+_Soissons_[44], and another now an Ambassador at _Venice_[45]. The
+Vigilance both of the Pastor, and of the Priests whom he employs for
+administring the Sacraments, cannot but be commended: The latter form a
+numerous Society, attend their Function with Application, and Divine
+Service is perform'd in the Church with very great Edification. The
+Society, and several Seminaries join'd to it, form together the most
+numerous Body of Clergy in all the Kingdom. The Seminary of St. _Sulpice_
+is one of the most frequented, because the Ecclesiastical Discipline is
+there taught and practis'd with Care; perhaps too, because Subjects are
+often taken from thence for the chief Dignities of the Church. Nothing is
+more edifying than to see the Procession of this Parish upon the Day of
+_Corpus Christi_, when there's a numerous Appearance of the Clergy in
+magnificent Copes: The Canopy, under which the Holy Sacrament is carry'd,
+is extraordinary rich. Twenty-four young Clergymen go before the Holy
+Sacrament, and twelve always walk backward, perfuming the Host, as they
+go, with Censers of Silver. There is not a Procession in the Kingdom that
+is made with more Dignity and Order[46]. With your Favour, I will conclude
+this Letter with the bare Mention of this Sacred Ceremony. As I propose
+to go to-morrow to _Versailles_, I shall send you what Observations I make
+there. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER XL.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Versailles, April 15, 1732._
+
+I have been now just ten Days at _Versailles_, where I have had the Honour
+of greeting the King and Queen, and all the Royal Family. I perceiv'd the
+King since his Marriage is grown very fat, but he is still one of the
+finest Princes in _Europe_. It may be said of _Lewis_ XV. that he is a
+Prince born without Vice, and free from that Haughtiness, which is
+commonly attach'd to Royalty: He is familiar with his Courtiers, reserv'd
+to Persons that are unknown to him, and particularly to Ambassadors, and
+more secret and circumspect than Persons of his Age. He has the Morals,
+Behaviour, and Sentiments of a good Man, and from thence _France_ may
+expect his Reign will be gentle and peaceful. It appears, as if _Lewis_
+XV. will be content with the Government of one of the most powerful
+Monarchies of the World, and that he will not be inclin'd to disturb
+_Europe_, for the sake of conquering a Town or a Province. He has been
+educated in such Sentiments of Justice, that his Neighbours ought not to
+be afraid of him, since God has undoubtedly chose him to be one of the
+Arbitrators of _Europe_, in order for the Preservation, and not for the
+Destruction of Equity: _Lewis_ the _Pacific_ and the _Debonaire_ will be
+his distinguishing Titles: Must not these be dearer to his Subjects, than
+the bloody Title of _Lewis_ the _Conqueror_? And may he not be great, and
+at the same time a Lover of Peace? Hitherto the King seems to follow the
+Plans of Government chalk'd out by the late Duke of _Burgundy_, his
+Father, whose Wisdom is still rever'd by _France_. God grant that he may
+always take them for his Models, and that his Reign may be long, and end
+as glorious as it begun!
+
+I never cast my Eyes upon _Lewis_ XV. without admiring the Providence
+which has preserv'd him, contrary to the People's Expectation. I have had
+the Honour to see him Duke of _Anjou_, his Brother, the Duke of
+_Bretagne_, being then alive. I have seen him the Dauphin of _France_, and
+at length I have seen him on the Throne: He had at one time a pale
+Complexion, which did not promise long Life. What Diseases has he not
+labour'd under! yet he now enjoys a perfect State of Health, and the
+Crown, which was so likely to devolve to collateral Branches, is
+establish'd upon the Head of this young Prince, and like to descend to his
+own Posterity. In fine, a King of _France_, Father of five Children living
+before he is twenty Years of Age, is such a Phaenomenon as is hardly to be
+parallell'd in antient or modern History, and 'tis in my Opinion more
+extraordinary even than the advanc'd Age, and the long Reign of his
+Great-Grandfather.
+
+The Queen is a Princess of exemplary Virtue, whose sole Application is to
+discharge her Duties to God, the King, and her Children: She is extremely
+gracious and civil, and has a great Happiness of expressing herself in the
+_French_, _German_, and _Polish_ Languages: She had formerly a great Taste
+for Music, and is now fond of Reading; but being entirely conformable to
+her Husband's Sentiments, she takes no manner of Share in the Government:
+She loves no Pageantry nor Ceremony, and the Rank of being the first Queen
+in the World seems to have no other Effect upon her, than to render her
+Virtues more venerable and conspicuous.
+
+As for the Children of _France_, they are as yet too young to be
+characteris'd. Mean time I assure you, 'tis a fine Sight to see them going
+to the Queen's Apartment, or running along the Gallery, with at least
+forty Attendants in their Train, including the Ladies and Chambermaids.
+The Person intrusted with the Care of the Education of the Children of
+_France_ is the Duchess _de Ventadour_; but as she is very far advanced in
+Years, and not able to be with them every-where, the Duchess of _Tallard_,
+her Grand-daughter, is join'd with her in the Commission. This Lady is the
+Daughter of the Prince _de Rohan_, Brother to the Cardinal: The Choice
+which has been made of her to succeed the Duchess of _Ventadour_, has been
+applauded by the whole Court; and in short, there are few Ladies that have
+a more noble Carriage, more Politeness, and sublimer Sentiments: And 'tis
+very remarkable, that since the Birth of the Dauphin, _Lewis_ XIVth's only
+Son, the Mother, the Daughter, and the Grand-daughter have always been
+trusted with the Education of the Children of _France_.
+
+Her Royal Highness, the Widow of the Regent, who is Daughter to _Lewis_
+XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_, is the first in Rank at Court, and she is
+the only Princess that has a Right to sit at Table with their Majesties,
+when they dine in State; but 'tis a Prerogative that she does not often
+make use of, because she has such a Dislike to Dress, that she appears
+little at Court; and when she comes to the King or Queen, 'tis in private:
+She commonly resides at _Paris_, or at _Bagnolet_[47]: She is the only
+Princess of the Kingdom that has Guards, and enjoys the Honours of a
+Daughter of _France_. King _Lewis_ XIV. granted all these great
+Distinctions to the late Duke of _Orleans_, in Favour of this Marriage, to
+which that Prince agreed against the Consent of his late Father, and the
+express Prohibition of his Mother; who was so exasperated against her Son,
+for not resisting _Lewis_ XIVth's Will and Pleasure, that she lifted up
+her Hand against him, when he told her that he was just marry'd, would not
+see her Daughter-in-law for a long time, and never could endure the
+Thoughts of the Match, till she saw her Grand-daughter marry'd to the Duke
+of _Berry_. Since that time, she has not been so strongly prejudic'd
+against her, but acknowledges her Royal Highness's Virtues, and always
+kept a good Correspondence with her. This Princess lives very retir'd in
+the Midst of the Court, and is very much employ'd in Works of Piety.
+
+Her Son, the Duke of _Orleans_, is a Prince of exemplary Devotion, being
+almost continually at Prayer, or performing Works of Charity: He made two
+or three Attempts to retire from the World, but the King thinking his
+Presence necessary in his Council, would not consent to it. His most
+serene Highness is the first Prince of the Blood, and Governor of
+_Dauphiny_; and he was once Colonel and Captain General of the _French_
+Infantry, but he resign'd that Post some Years ago. This Prince marry'd
+the Princess of _Baden_, by whom he has a Son styl'd Duke of _Chartres_, a
+hopeful young Prince, who is educated at St. _Cloud_, remote from the
+Grandeur and Hurry of the Court.
+
+The Duke of _Orleans_ has also four Sisters in the Kingdom, the eldest of
+whom is the Abbess _de Chelles_, who was formerly styl'd Mademoiselle _de
+Chartres_. This Princess, in spite of all the Persuasions of the late
+Regent and the Duchess, who did their utmost to divert her from it, took
+the Habit of a Nun, tho' she was one of the most amiable Princesses in
+_Europe_, and might have made a great Prince happy.
+
+The second Sister is the Queen of _Spain_, the Dowager of _Lewis_ I. whom
+she marry'd when he was Prince of _Asturias_, before his Father resign'd
+the Crown of _Spain_ to him; but the young King did not live long to enjoy
+it, and after his Death, the young Queen Dowager having a Desire to return
+to _France_, their Catholic Majesties consented to it, and the King of
+_France_ allow'd her the Castle of _Vincennes_ to reside in, where for
+some time she liv'd: She had not been there many Weeks, when she receiv'd
+a Visit from the King, who said, before he went, that his Visit would be
+short. _I am not very talkative_, said his Majesty, _and they say, that
+the Queen of +Spain+ does not talk at all; so that I don't believe we
+shall have much Conversation_: And indeed the Visit was very short. The
+Queen receiv'd the King at the Step of the Coach, and the King taking her
+by the Hand, led her into his Chamber, where two Arm-Chairs were plac'd
+for them under a Canopy. The King seated himself on the Right Hand, and
+after a few Words spoke by the Duke _de Bourbon_, and the Duke _de
+Noailles_, who, as Captain of the Guards, stood behind the King's Chair,
+his Majesty rose, and went away with the same Ceremonies as he came. Some
+time after this, the Queen of _Spain_ went to visit the King, when her
+Guards were plac'd in all the Posts of _Versailles_, the King's Guards
+being order'd to make room for them. The King receiv'd the Queen as she
+alighted from the Coach, and every thing pass'd with the same Formality as
+at _Vincennes_. The Queen of _Spain_, after some Stay at the Castle of
+_Vincennes_, went to live in those Apartments at _Luxembourg_, which had
+been the Residence of her Sister the Duchess of _Berry_; but some time ago
+she retir'd to a Convent, and her Family, which was at first exceeding
+numerous, was very much reduc'd. If we except the vain Honours of Royalty,
+she would have been far more happy, if she had never been a Queen; for
+then she might have marry'd again; whereas now she must continue a Widow,
+and pass the Prime of her Days in Solitude and Retirement.
+
+The third Sister of the Duke of _Orleans_ is Mademoiselle _de Beaujolois_,
+who was design'd as a Match for the Infante, Don _Carlos_; but when the
+Infanta of _Spain_ was sent back from _France_, return'd to this Kingdom
+with the Queen, her Sister: She is one of the most beautiful and most
+amiable Princesses upon Earth, worthy to reign, and worthy of the
+Infante[48].
+
+Mademoiselle _d'Orleans_[49], her Sister, is a very charming Princess,
+with an exceeding graceful Air, and Behaviour fully answerable to her
+Birth.
+
+Next to the Family of _Orleans_, the first in Rank is that of _Conde_,
+which consists of three Princes, and six Princesses: The Duke _de Bourbon_
+is the chief, who is great Steward of the King's Houshold, and Governor of
+_Burgundy_, His Highness lost one Eye in Hunting, by an unfortunate Shot
+from the Duke of _Berry_: He was marry'd very young to Mademoiselle _de
+Conti_ his Cousin, who died without Issue. He was also but young when he
+made the Campaigns in _Germany_, in Company with his Brother-in-law the
+Prince of _Conti_. After the Decease of _Lewis_ XIV. the Duke went to Law
+with the legitimated Princes, and caus'd the Duke _de Maine_ to be
+degraded from the Rank of Prince of the Blood, to which he had been
+promoted by an Arret solemnly register'd in Parliament during the Life of
+the late King. The Duke of _Bourbon_ demanded, as first Prince of the
+Blood, whom he then represented, by reason of the tender Age of the Duke
+of _Chartres_, now Duke of _Orleans_, to have the Superintendance of the
+King's Education, to which Post the Duke _de Maine_ had been nominated by
+the late King's last Will: He obtain'd his Demand, and the Duke _de Maine_
+retir'd to _Seaux_. The Duke _de Bourbon_ had after this a great Share in
+the Affairs of the Regency, and the Duke of _Orleans_ took care to keep
+him in good Humour. At the unexpected Death of the Regent, the Duke, being
+then at _Versailles_, went to the King, and demanded the Post of Prime
+Minister, vacant by the Death of his Royal Highness, and obtain'd it. The
+late M. _de la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State, being perhaps a little too
+forgetful of his Obligations to the Son of a Prince who had heap'd Favours
+upon him, drew up the Patent instantly, and caus'd it to be sign'd by the
+King, before the Duke of _Chartres_, who was at the Opera at _Paris_,
+could hear the News of his Father's Death; so that tho' he went Post to
+_Versailles_, and demanded the Office of First Minister, the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ told him, that the King had dispos'd of it to himself. The Duke
+was no sooner vested with the Authority of Prime Minister, than he made
+great Alterations in the Government; but these are the Subject of History
+rather than of a Letter. M. _le Blanc_, who had been Secretary at War,
+and was the Darling of the Officers, was committed to the _Bastille_; and
+M. _de Breteuil_, who had been formerly Master of the Requests, and
+Intendant of _Tours_, succeeded him in that Office; which was the
+Consequence of a Misunderstanding, or rather a Hatred, between two Ladies,
+who were the Mistresses, the one of the Duke of _Bourbon_, the other of M.
+_le Blanc_. All the Friends of the latter, among whom was M. the Count _de
+Belle-Isle_, shared in his Disgrace. The four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_ had the Management of the Finances, of which Brothers two had been
+Soldiers in the Guards; but they had the Cunning to extricate themselves
+from that melancholy State, and to render themselves necessary to the
+Government during the Time of the Regency. M. _d'Argenson_ Keeper of the
+Seals had been their Patron, and rais'd them upon the Ruins of Mr. _John
+Law_, and his System. Whatever was done by these Brothers is foreign to my
+Purpose: Their rapid Fortune drew Envy upon them, and they soon became the
+Objects of the public Hatred.
+
+The most remarkable Transactions of the Duke's Administration, were the
+sending back of the Infanta, and the Marriage of the King. The Duke,
+foreseeing the Inconveniencies to which _France_ would be liable, if the
+King should die without Issue, thought it best to prevent so fatal an
+Accident, which it had not been possible for him to have done without
+marrying the King. The Infanta of _Spain_ was a Child, and it would be at
+least eight Years before they could hope for any Issue from her; whereas
+by marrying the King to another speedily, there was a Chance of having a
+Dauphin very soon, who would secure the Tranquillity of the Kingdom. His
+most Serene Highness therefore propos'd this Affair to the Council, which
+at first he found very much divided about it; for they were apprehensive
+of the Resentment of the King of _Spain_, and the Duke himself was
+heartily sorry, that he was under a Necessity of giving their Catholic
+Majesties just Cause of Disgust for the sake of the public Good: The
+Council being at last agreed, they pass'd a Resolution unanimously to send
+back the Infanta. This was accordingly notified to the Court of _Spain_,
+where News so unexpected was receiv'd with all the Indignation possible.
+The Infanta was sent back. The Duchess of _Tallard_ had the Care of
+conducting her to the _Spanish_ Frontier. All the Honours due to the
+Daughter of a great King were paid to this Princess, and every thing that
+could be thought of, was done to soften the Displeasure of their Catholic
+Majesties for her Return. All _France_ murmur'd in secret at the Departure
+of this Princess; for she had won the Hearts of all who had seen her, by a
+Behaviour and a Genius so vastly above one of her Age, that they
+prognosticated she would one Day be a great Queen. Not long after she was
+sent away, the King was married to a Princess so happy in Childbearing,
+that Heaven thereby seems to applaud what the Duke has done, and the
+People, quite forgetting the Infanta, bless his Name.
+
+The King, after he had been married a few Months, thought it was not
+convenient for a Prince of the Blood to have the Direction of his Affairs;
+and therefore he displac'd the Duke of _Bourbon_ from the Post of Prime
+Minister, and made the late Bishop of _Frejus_, now the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, the sole Depositary of his Authority. The Duke receiv'd Orders to
+retire to _Chantilly_, a Seat he has near _Senlis_; and there his Friends
+put it into his Head to marry a second Wife: Several Princesses were
+propos'd to him, but he determin'd his Choice for _Eleonora_ of
+_Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister of the Princess of _Piedmont_, now Queen of
+_Sardinia_[50]; and the Brother of this Princess, having a Proxy sent to
+him from the Duke, married her at _Rotenbourg_, in Presence of the Count
+_de Gasse_, whom the Duke had sent to assist in his Name at this Ceremony.
+The young Duchess no sooner arriv'd in _France_, but her Beauty, and the
+Charms both of her Person and Mind, made her admir'd by the whole Court,
+of which she is now one of the principal Ornaments: She is belov'd and
+respected by all Mankind, and every body pities her, that the Duke has not
+all that Tenderness for her which she deserves, and which it were to be
+wish'd he had for the Support of the _Conde_ Family, of which the two only
+Princes remaining, _viz._ the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_, are
+not married.
+
+The Count _de Charolois_ is tall, handsome, and well-set: His Entrance
+upon the Stage of Action was much taken Notice of; for a Thirst after
+Glory was the Passion of his Soul, as soon as he came to the Years of
+Understanding. The War being kindled in _Hungary_, and Prince _Eugene_ of
+_Savoy_ having gain'd a Victory near _Temiswar_, which reviv'd that Hero's
+Reputation in _France_, the Count _de Charolois_ had a mind to learn the
+Art of War under so great a Master, and to make the Campaign which
+immediately follow'd that of _Temiswar_; but he did not dare to discover
+his Intention, and fearing that he should not obtain the Consent, either
+of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, the Duchess his Mother, or the Duke
+his Father, he resolv'd to set out privately, being sure that he should be
+applauded for his Undertaking, if he could be so happy as to put it in
+Execution. He imparted his Design in Confidence to M. _de Billy_, one of
+his Gentlemen, and to _Renault_ his first _Valet de Chambre_, and with
+these two Attendants he set out from _Chantilly_ on Pretence of Hunting.
+He travell'd five or six Post-Stages with the very Horses that belonged to
+the Duke his Father; after which he left them to the Care of the
+Post-master, and hir'd fresh Horses, with which he reach'd _Liege_; where
+he rested some Days, and having provided himself with Linen, went to the
+Court of the Elector of _Cologn_, whom he had known in _France_: His first
+Visit at _Bonn_, was at the House of M. _de S. Maurice_, the Elector's
+Prime Minister; but he did not find him at home. M. _de Billy_ thereupon
+desir'd to speak with his Lady, and told her, that a certain Punctilio of
+Honour had oblig'd him to come from _France_ with the young Gentleman in
+his Company; but Madame _de S. Maurice_, not thinking he was a Prince of
+the Blood, and taking the Count _de Charolois_ for some petty Officer,
+gave him a very cold Reception: However, she sent for her Husband, who was
+then attending the Elector's Person; and when the Count _de S. Maurice_
+came, he presently knew the Count _de Charolois_, paid him all due
+Respects, and hasten'd to notify his Arrival to the Elector, who at first
+was concern'd to hear it, because his Electoral Highness knew not but he
+might disoblige the Court of _France_ by receiving the Count, who he
+imagin'd had left the Kingdom upon some Disgust. Nevertheless, after
+reflecting with himself, that whatever the Count _de Charolois_ might have
+done, the Court of _France_ could not be angry with him for paying a
+Regard to his Quality as Prince of the Blood, he sent to invite him to his
+Palace. The Count went thither accordingly, by the Name of the Count _de
+Dammartin_, which he always travell'd With as long as he was absent from
+the Kingdom. The Elector receiv'd him With all the Marks of the highest
+Esteem, kept him several Days at his Court, and then furnish'd him with
+Money for his Journey to _Munich_; where he no sooner arriv'd, but he
+wrote to the Duke his Father to send him Remittances, and the necessary
+Equipages for the Campaign which he was then going to make.
+
+Tho' the Count _de Charolois_ did not find the Elector of _Bavaria_ at
+_Munich_, yet he was as well receiv'd as if he had been there; and the
+Electress, tho' he had not been to see her, no sooner heard of his
+Arrival, but she order'd all due Honours to be paid to him. When the
+Elector return'd to _Munich_, he was overjoy'd to find this Prince there,
+and offer'd to make his Peace in _France_, in which he succeeded so far,
+as to get his Departure out of the Kingdom approv'd by the Duchess and the
+Regent. When the Count's Domestics were arriv'd, he set out for _Hungary_,
+and pass'd through _Vienna_ without saluting the Emperor, or the Empress
+Dowager his Cousin German. The Empress Was so offended at it, that she
+wrote to her Aunt, who was the Prince's Grandmother, and signified to that
+Princess, that she did not think it handsome for a Prince of such Descent
+as the Count _de Charolois_, to pass through _Vienna_ to serve in the
+Imperial Army, without having seen the Emperor. The Count's Relations did
+not fail to reproach him for his Want of Respect to their Imperial
+Majesties. He excus'd himself, by saying that he did not know what
+Treatment he ought to expect; but the Answer he receiv'd, was an Order
+from the Regent in the King's Name, to wait on their Imperial Majesties as
+he return'd from the Campaign.
+
+He signaliz'd himself in it very much, but with so little Care of his
+Person, that Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ often reproach'd him for it: He
+took a Pleasure to go up to the very Breast-work of the Trenches; and
+from thence with Screw-Guns he fir'd at the _Turks_, as if he had been
+shooting at small Birds: On the other hand the _Turks_ did not spare him,
+but sent their Balls whizzing about his Ears in Return for his Frolic. The
+Count was present at the Battle of _Belgrade_, and saw that Place taken:
+He afterwards went to _Vienna_, and staid there some Weeks, where he had
+an Audience of the Emperor, not _incognito_, but as the Count _de
+Charolois_. The Emperor receiv'd him at the _Favourita_ standing: His
+Audience was attended with this odd Circumstance. The Count, being not
+acquainted with the Ceremonial, did not know that he should find the
+Emperor all alone; and therefore, when he enter'd the Closet, and saw a
+Man in a very plain Dress leaning with his Back against a Table, he took
+him for some private Gentleman; but in a few Moments he spy'd the Golden
+Fleece: He was doubtful in his Mind, after all, whether 'twas the Emperor;
+but he advanc'd, saying within himself, that in either case there was not
+much Harm in being mistaken. The Emperor receiv'd him with very great
+Marks of Distinction, and the Count kiss'd his Hand, because he had been
+told it was the Custom, and that all the Princes of the Empire did the
+same. He afterwards went to the Apartment of the Empresses, and had
+reason, where-ever he came, to be satisfied with his Reception.
+
+From _Vienna_ he return'd to _Munich_, after which he made the Tour of
+_Italy_, and lodg'd at _Rome_ at the House of the Cardinal _de
+Tremouille_, who had then the Care of the Affairs of _France_. After
+having repass'd the Mountains, he came back to _Munich_, where he stay'd a
+Year and an half, being always lodg'd and defray'd, together with his
+Retinue, at the Expence of his Electoral Highness, who kept a Table for
+him for twelve Guests, besides Hunting-Equipage, and Horses at his
+Command.
+
+Hunting is this Prince's chief Amusement since he return'd to _France_: He
+appears seldom at Court, and neither meddles nor makes with Affairs of
+State. They talk often of getting him a Wife; but he does not seem to have
+any more Gout for the Sacrament of Marriage, than his younger Brother the
+Count _de Clermont_, a young Prince of a lovely Person, a sweet Nature,
+and who seems to have a way of Thinking becoming his Birth. They who
+approach him, and know him intimately, have assur'd me, that he has all
+the Qualities that can be to form hereafter a great Prince. It seems as if
+he were design'd for the Church, since his most Serene Highness actually
+enjoys several considerable Abbeys; but hitherto this Prince dresses in
+the Lay Habit, and performs no Spiritual Function. While I was speaking of
+the Count _de Charolois_, I forgot so tell you, that he is Governor of _la
+Touraine_, in which Honour he succeeded the late M. _Dangeau_, first
+Gentleman-Usher to the late Duchess of _Burgundy_. In his time _la
+Touraine_ was not reckon'd among the great Governments; but as the Regent
+was willing to give one to the Count _de Charolois_, after having granted
+away the Reversions of all the great Governments, he thought of no other
+Expedient, than to put _la Touraine_ in the Rank of the other Provinces.
+
+The three Princes that I have just mention'd, are the Sons of Madame the
+Duchess (of _Bourbon_) the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. and Madame
+_de Montespan_; She is a Princess who has been cry'd-up in _Europe_ for
+her Wit, Beauty, and the Charms of her Person. Tho' she is the Mother of a
+numerous Family, she may still be reckoned among the Beauties of the
+Court; and 'tis certain, that when the Duchess is with the Princesses her
+Daughters, she seems rather to be their Sister than the Mother. This
+Princess is immensely rich, those who manage her Affairs having acquir'd
+a vast Estate in the contagious Actions of the _Missisippi_. She lives
+with very great Magnificence, and has lately caus'd a Palace to be built,
+which may be rank'd with the finest Structures in _Europe_. Her most
+Serene Highness is often at _Chantilly_ with the Duke her Husband, but the
+rest of her Time she divides betwixt the Court and City.
+
+The Princess of _Conti_ the second Dowager, the Princesses of _Charolois_,
+_Clermont_ and _Sens_, are her Daughters, and form one of the most
+beautiful Families that ever was. 'Tis pity that Princesses so beautiful
+and accomplish'd are not well match'd, but their Greatness is a Bar to
+their Settlement in Marriage; besides, this Century has been more prolific
+every-where in Princesses than in Princes. The Princess of _Conti_, who
+has some Thoughts of a Wife for the Prince her Son, has just bought the
+fine House which was built by the Count _de Belle-Isle_, out of the vast
+Sums which he got by _Missisippi_ Stock; there she proposes to end her
+Days, and she already appears but seldom at Court, which indeed the
+Trouble of Dressing hinders a great many Princesses and Ladies from
+frequenting. The Princess of _Conti_ was very young when she married, and
+has had two Sons; but there's only one of them living, whom in his
+Father's Life-time was styl'd the Count _d'Alais_, and is now the Prince
+of _Conti_[51].
+
+As for Mademoiselle _de Charolois_, all the Charms imaginable are united
+in her Person: She has a noble Aspect, a very lively sparkling Wit, and of
+all the Duchess's Daughters she is the most like her Mother, and has the
+most sprightly Ideas. During the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, when
+Money was become extraordinary scarce, Mademoiselle _de Charolois_
+appear'd at the Royal Palace with two _Lewis d'Ors_ in her Ears for
+Pendants; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ asking her the Meaning of that
+new Fashion, she made him Answer, that she found _Lewis d'Ors_ scarcer
+than Diamonds, and that therefore she wore them as such. Mademoiselle _de
+Charolois_ lives in the little Hotel _de Bourbon_, which formerly belong'd
+to _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ the Palatine, the Widow of _Henry Julius_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conde_, Grandmother to the Princes and Princesses of
+the _Conde_ Family. This Princess has a Family here independent on Madame
+the Duchess (of _Bourbon_); but she generally follows the Court, and as
+she is very fond of Hunting, and rides well, she makes one at all the
+King's Matches.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Clermont_ is not only very beautiful, but has an Air of
+Quality, good Nature and Modesty, which distinguishes her from all the
+Grandees of the Court. Calumny, which does not always favour the Royal
+Blood here, could never shed its Venom upon this Princess, and the whole
+Court ever admir'd her for her Sobriety and Virtue. She is Superintendante
+of the Queen's Houshold, and went in this Quality with the Ladies of
+Honour to meet her Majesty at _Strasbourg_.
+
+Mademoiselle _de Sens_, with her Beauty, is both graceful and modest: She
+was brought up under her Grandmother the Princess; and after her Decease,
+the Duchess of _Brunswic_, her Great Aunt, Mother to the Empress _Amelia_,
+who spent her latter Years in _France_, had the Care of her Education, and
+form'd her one of the most amiable Princesses upon the Earth.
+
+The _Conti_ Family, which is the third Branch of the Princes of the Blood,
+consists at this time of two Dowager Ladies, a young Prince, and a
+Princess, call'd Mademoiselle _de la Roche-sur-yon_. The Princess of
+_Conti_, the first Dowager Lady, is the legitimated Daughter of King
+_Lewis_ XIV. by Mademoiselle _de la Valiere_: This Princess is celebrated
+for her Beauty, Wit, and noble Air, which she still retains: She happen'd
+to be a Widow when she was very young. Some say that the King of _Morocco_
+demanded her in Marriage, but I have been assur'd by many People, that
+'tis a mere Fiction. Be this as it will, such a Match was not practicable;
+for tho' Religion had been altogether out of the Question, King _Lewis_
+XIV. would never have sacrific'd a Daughter so dear to him, and one who
+was the Ornament of his Court, to a _Marabou_[52]. The Princess of
+_Conti_, since the Death of her Brother the Dauphin, has not appear'd in
+public, and only visits the King and Queen privately in their Majesties
+Closet. Her Occupations are Works of Piety and Charity, and her Life is an
+Example of Virtue: She commonly resides in her Hotel at _Paris_, which is
+beautiful and magnificent, and formerly belong'd to the Marshal-Duke _de
+Lorges_.
+
+The legitimated Princes, Sons of _Lewis_ XIV. are the Duke _de Maine_, and
+the Count _de Tholouse_. The former is Grand Master of the Ordnance,
+Colonel-General of the _Swiss_ and _Grisons_, and Governor of _Guienne_:
+He married _Louisa-Benedictina_ of _Bourbon-Conde_, by whom he has two
+Sons and a Daughter. The Duke _de Maine_ possesses the Sovereignty of
+_Dombes_, which the late Mademoiselle, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_,
+Son of _Henry_ IV. left him by Will. This Prince signaliz'd his Valour in
+his Youth: He has the Misfortune to halt, but he has a superior Genius,
+and is a Man of true Christian Piety. The late King distinguish'd him
+above all his Children, of which he gave an illustrious Proof, when he
+appointed him Superintendant of the Education of _Lewis_ XV. and when he
+made him a Sharer in the Authority of the Regency, together with the Duke
+of _Orleans_, whom he would have been glad to have intirely excluded from
+it, if his Royal Highness's Birth had not given him an absolute Title to
+it. Some Years before this, the said King, by a Declaration the most
+solemnly register'd that ever any was, had recognis'd the Ability of the
+Duke _de Maine_, the Count _de Tholouse_, and their Posterity, to succeed
+to the Crown on Failure of Issue by the lawful Princes. The Princes of the
+Blood, in Complaisance to _Lewis_ XIV. before whom every Knee was bow'd,
+did not oppose a Declaration so little for their Honour: But in the
+Beginning of _Lewis_ XVth's Reign they commenced a Suit upon it against
+the legitimated Princes. The Arret which call'd them to the Succession of
+the Crown was revok'd, and the Count _de Tholouse_ was the only one that
+retain'd for his Life the Honours that were annex'd to the Dignity of
+Prince of the Blood. The Duke _de Maine_ and his Children were depriv'd of
+these great Prerogatives, and reduc'd to the Rank of their Peerage. Some
+Years after, however, it pleas'd the King to restore those Honours to the
+Duke _de Maine_, and to his Sons the Prince of _Dombes_, and the Count
+_d'Eu_; but these Princes continue excluded from the Crown.
+
+I have already acquainted you how the Duke of _Bourbon_ depriv'd the Duke
+_de Maine_ of the Superintendance of _Lewis_ XVth's Education: But that
+was not the only Circumstance that mortified him; for at that Juncture the
+Point that seem'd to be solely in View, was to undo every thing that had
+been done by _Lewis_ XIV. And the Duke, together with his Employments and
+Honours, also lost his Liberty. He was accus'd of holding a Correspondence
+with the Prince _de Cellamare_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador, who endeavour'd
+to excite the _French_ to a Rebellion against the Regent, by promising
+them Assistance from the King his Master: Hereupon the Duke _de Maine_ was
+arrested, and committed Prisoner to _Dourlens_ in _Picardy_, where he was
+closely confin'd. They who are not the most zealous of this Prince's
+Friends, agree that he supported this Reverse of Fortune with an heroic
+Constancy. I heard it said by the People who were set to watch him, that
+they never saw him once deviate from that Serenity of Mind, and that good
+Nature which accompany all his Actions. But the Duchess of _Maine_ did not
+receive the News of his Disgrace with the same Tranquillity; for being
+born with all the high Spirit of the Great _Conde_ her Grandfather, she
+rav'd against the Regent, but especially against her Nephew the Duke, whom
+she look'd upon as the Author of her Misfortunes. They say moreover, that
+the Duke _de Maine_ himself was rattled by her before he was confin'd.
+'Twas on the Day that _Lewis_ XV. came to the Parlement to hold his first
+Bed of Justice, when the Duke _de Maine_ was turn'd out of that Share
+which the late King's last Will gave him in the Regency. As this Duke came
+home from the Parlement, he found his Wife in the utmost Impatience to
+know what had been done; of which when he had given her an exact Account,
+the Duchess could not bridle her Passion, but looking on her Husband with
+Indignation, she said, _I have nothing left then to possess, but the Shame
+of having married you!_ When she received Orders to quit to the Duke of
+_Bourbon_ that Apartment which she had in the _Thuilleries_, while the
+Duke _de Maine_ was Superintendant of the King's Education; _Yes_, said
+she, _I will quit it with a Vengeance_, and at the same time order'd it to
+be stripp'd quite bare of Furniture; and for the more Haste she dash'd the
+Looking-glasses, China, and all Goods of that Sort in Pieces.
+Nevertheless, when she was apprehended, and during the Time that she was
+detain'd, she was not heard to utter a Complaint or a Murmur; but
+supported her Disgrace with that Magnanimity for which she is admir'd, a
+Quality which elevates her so far above other Women, and sets her on a Par
+with the greatest Men.
+
+The Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ are often at _Seaux_, a fine House but a
+little Distance from _Paris_, on the high Road to _Orleans_, built by
+_John Baptist Colbert_. Here they have always a gay Court. This Duchess is
+so much in Love with the Arts and Sciences, that all Men of Letters look
+on her as their Patroness; and there are few Poetical Compositions which
+are not first presented to her. The last Time I paid my Court to her, the
+following Piece, compos'd of no more than two Rhymes, was read there, and
+so highly applauded, that I herewith send you a Copy of it[53].
+
+The Prince of _Dombes_, the Duke of _Maine's_ eldest Son, is a tall
+handsome well set Gentleman, and has the Reversion of his Father's
+Offices. Whether the Count _d'Eu_ has any Employments, I know not. Both
+these Princes are commonly at Court. Mademoiselle _du Maine_ is a very
+amiable Princess, whose Education has been fully answerable to her Birth,
+and who, by her Manners and Politeness, approves herself the worthy
+Daughter of her Mother.
+
+The Count _de Tholouse_, great Admiral of _France_, is the second Son of
+King _Lewis_ XIV. by Madame _de Montespan_. In the last War he commanded
+the Naval Army of _France_. He is one of the handsomest and comeliest
+Lords at Court. He is noble and magnificent in every thing that he does,
+and they say, he is generous. He is very polite, and has always been as
+much esteem'd for his Merit, as for his Rank of a legitimated Prince,
+which he has preserved, tho' his Brother was divested of it. It was
+believed for a long time, that this Prince would not marry, and that his
+great Estate would fall to the Children of the Duke _de Maine_; but he
+married some Years ago, _Maria Victoria_ of _Noailles_, Widow of the
+Marquis _de Gondrin_, Son to the Duke _d'Antin_, by whom he had a Son, who
+is now the Duke _d'Epernon_. The Count _de Tholouse_ has had a Son by her
+also, who is called the Duke[54]_de Ponthievre_; by which Title, the Count
+has the Rank of a Peer in Parliament. This Prince, since his Marriage, has
+commonly resided at _Rambouillet_, where the King frequently makes Parties
+for Hunting. His Majesty shews a very great Regard for the Countess of
+_Tholouse_, which gives her Authority to talk to his Majesty with a great
+deal of Freedom. The _French_ say, she was the Occasion of the Duke of
+_Bourbon_'s being put out of the Ministry. 'Tis certain, however, that the
+King was at _Rambouillet_, when the Duke _de Charost_ went and told the
+Duke, That it was his Majesty's Pleasure, that he should quit the Station
+of Prime Minister. The Duke being at _Versailles_ when he receiv'd the
+unwelcome News, they say, he desired to speak with the King and Queen; but
+that the Duke _de Charost_ told him, he had Orders for his Removal to
+_Chantilly_. His most Serene Highness obey'd, and did not appear to be
+afflicted for the Loss of his Authority, so much as for the falling-off of
+his Friends and Creatures. The Marchioness _de Prie_, Lady of the
+Bed-chamber to the Queen, whom he honoured with a very singular Esteem,
+received Orders to leave the Court, and to retire to _Normandy_; where,
+during her being in Favour, she had purchased a considerable Estate. The
+Brothers of the Name of _Paris_, those Objects of the Public Odium, were
+divested of their Authority. M. _de Blanc_ came again into the Ministry:
+M. _de Belle-Isle_ regain'd his Liberty, and obtained the Command of the
+Troops of the Government of _Metz_, and the three Bishopricks. The
+Marchioness _de Prie_ had the Mortification to see her Employment of Lady
+of the Bed-chamber fill'd up by the Daughter of M. _le Blanc_, to whom she
+was a declared Enemy, and whom she had endeavoured to ruin. This Lady was
+not able to support herself long under her Disgrace; for having been used
+to bear a Sway, she could not reconcile herself to Retirement; but
+languished for a while, and at length died of a Colic, which gave her
+horrid Pains. She was not much regretted, because she had made few
+Friends; Ambition and Self-Interest had taken intire hold of her. She
+thought her Disgrace unsufferable, and the little Reflection she made upon
+the Revolution of Fortune, rendered hers but the more intolerable. I will
+hereafter give you an Account of the Cardinal _de Fleury_, and of the
+Persons now of the First Rank at Court; but at present my Pen is ready to
+drop out of my Fingers; for 'tis One o'Clock in the Morning, and if I
+write any more, I shall but give you my Dreams. Therefore I am, with all
+the Esteem, possible, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Versailles, May 1, 1732._
+
+In my last Letter I mention'd the Princes and Princesses of the Blood
+Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this
+Court, who are in the most exalted Stations.
+
+The Cardinal _de Fleury_, by his Dignity of Cardinal, and much more by his
+Character, as the Depositary of the Royal Authority, has the first Rank in
+the State next to the Princes of the Blood. This Prelate, tho' far
+advanced in Years, is brisk and lively to Admiration. His Stature is
+somewhat above the middle Size; he has a happy Physiognomy, to which
+Fortune has not given the Lye; and he is humble, good-natur'd and civil.
+You know that he was Bishop of _Frejus_. He resign'd that See to excuse
+himself from the Pastoral Charge of Souls, when the late King _Lewis_ XIV.
+nominated him, by his Last Will, Preceptor to the young _Dauphin_, now
+King _Lewis_ XV. This was almost the only Article of _Lewis_ the Grand's
+Will, which the Regent put in Execution. M. _de Frejus_ won the Heart of
+the young Monarch to such a Degree, that the Prince was intirely wrapp'd
+up in him; and his Affection for him has increas'd so much ever since,
+that now it may be literally said, that the Cardinal _de Fleury_ is the
+Depositary, or Trustee, of the Royal Authority. The Regent, a Prince of
+Penetration, if ever there was one, quickly perceived what an Ascendant M.
+_de Frejus_ had over the young Monarch; and being apprehensive of what
+might be the Consequences of it, he was continually contriving how to
+remove the Prelate from Court. With this View he offered him the
+Archbishoprick of _Rheims_, which was vacant by the Death of the Cardinal
+_de Mailly_; but M. _de Fleury_, who resigned the Bishoprick of _Frejus_,
+that he might not have the Charge of Souls, was so far from accepting one
+of the greatest Archbishopricks in the Kingdom, that he absolutely refused
+it. The Duke of _Orleans_, who was intent upon carrying his Point, offered
+to make him a Cardinal; for he hoped, that the Pope's ill State of Health
+would quickly bring on a Conclave; and that then M. _de Frejus_ would be
+obliged to go to _Rome_, where he thought he shou'd be able to continue
+him, on Pretence of managing the King's Affairs there; and that then the
+young Monarch's Fondness to see his Favourite would by that Means
+insensibly be weaned. But M. _de Frejus_ saw the Hook that was hid under
+this Bait. The red Hat did not dazzle his Eyes; and he knew moreover, that
+if he kept close to the King's Person, he could be sure of a Hat whenever
+he pleased. However, he thank'd the Duke of _Orleans_, and told him, he
+had no such ambitious Views, and that he preferred his Station in the
+King's Council, before all the Dignities, to which, in his Goodness, he
+had Thoughts of promoting him. The Duke of _Orleans_, however chagrin'd at
+the Prelate's Moderation, was forc'd to keep it to himself; he was afraid
+to make use of his Authority; for it was not long before this, that he
+banish'd the Marshal _de Villeroy_ to _Lyons_, at which the People
+grumbled; and to put away the Preceptor too, would have rais'd a Clamour
+against him, throughout the whole Kingdom. M. _de Frejus_ continued at
+Court as a Member of the Privy Council, and there was not a Courtier who
+gave more constant Attendance; and in this Station he supported the
+Ministry of the Cardinal _du Bois_, the Duke of _Orleans_, and the Duke of
+_Bourbon_; but he confin'd himself all the while within the Bounds of his
+Office. At the King's Marriage, he accepted of that of Great Almoner to
+the Queen, and by that Means his Attachment to the Court became more
+strict. When the Duke _de Bourbon_ was disgrac'd, the King offered the
+Place of Prime Minister to M. _de Frejus_, who, indeed, accepted of that
+eminent Post; but 'twas on Condition, that he should not be compelled to
+take the Title, and that he might always lay an Account of every Thing
+before the King.
+
+The Bishop of _Frejus_ being thus become Master of the Government, it was
+but reasonable that he should be adorned with the Purple, to give the more
+Lustre to his Character. Mean time _France_, had no Hat to demand, for the
+Number of her Cardinals was completed. The Emperor having a Pretension at
+that Time to a Hat, the King desired him to yield it to him for his First
+Minister; and the Emperor, overjoy'd that he could oblige the King, and
+that he could make the Minister some sort of Amends for his pacific
+Sentiments, gave him his Nomination accordingly. Pope _Benedict_ XIII.
+sent the Cap to the Bishop, who then assumed the Title of Cardinal _de
+Fleury_; and with this Title he now governs the State, not with the
+general Applause of the _French_, because the Thing is impossible; but at
+least, with the Approbation of his King, of Foreigners, and indeed, of
+every Man in the Kingdom, who is thoroughly inform'd of the State of
+_France_ in particular, and of _Europe_ in general. Yet those who have the
+least Affection for the Cardinal, must acknowledge his Disinterestedness
+and Integrity; for the worst Enemy he has, cannot accuse him of amassing
+Riches, or of coveting to aggrandize his Family; in which respect he is,
+perhaps, negligent to a Fault, his Kindred having the Character of Persons
+of Worth.
+
+The Cardinal's Expences are as much circumscrib'd as his Dignity will
+admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no
+doubt, 'tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so
+vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to
+Business, And I don't think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in
+his Diversions.
+
+The _French_ (I speak of those who hope to make their Fortune by the
+Sword) find fault with his Temper as too pacific. _We are despis'd_, (say
+they) _our Neighbours make Treaties and Alliances without us, and +France+
+is no longer what she was in the Time of +Lewis+ XIV._
+
+I am not here proposing to make a Panegyric on the Cardinal, but I cannot
+help letting you see how weakly those People talk, who censure his Conduct
+as to Foreign Affairs. I don't pretend to enter into the Domestic Affairs
+of the Kingdom, tho' I am very well persuaded, that the Cardinal's
+Integrity, and his Zeal for the King, incline him to act to the best of
+his Power. I will only leave you to judge if his Inclination to Peace is
+blameable. When he came into the Ministry, he found the King's Coffers
+exhausted, and the Kingdom in a Condition, which requir'd Rest rather than
+a War, the Event of which is always uncertain. But after all, Who is there
+to go to War with? What shall be the Pretence? Who is it that insults
+_France_? Or, Who desires any thing more of her than her Friendship? Have
+not the Treaties of _Utrecht_, and _Baden_, and all the Treaties made
+since, during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, settled the Interests
+of _Europe_? Did not _England_ earnestly court the Alliance of _France_?
+Has the Emperor seem'd less desirous of it? Nay, Did not _Spain_ itself,
+forgetting the sending back of the _Infanta_, enter into her former
+Engagements with this Crown, as soon as the Cardinal _de Fleury_ was
+vested with the Ministry? In what respect then, can the _French_ think
+themselves despis'd by their Neighbours? I will take upon me to prove, on
+the contrary, that _Lewis_ XV. during the Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry,
+instead of being neglected, has been as much courted by the Foreign
+Powers, as _Lewis_ XIV. was in all that Glory which procured him the Title
+of _Louis le Grand_. When the Clamour was for abolishing the _Ostend_
+Company, How did _England_ and _Holland_ bestir themselves to make the
+King a Party in their Quarrel? What did not the Emperor do to engage him
+in his Interest? Every thing was uncertain, as long as _France_ remained
+undetermined. The _English_ and the _Dutch_ prepared to attack the
+Emperor, and the latter made ready for his Defence. The Cardinal having
+got the King to declare for the Maritime Powers, the Emperor abolish'd the
+_Ostend_ Company immediately. What more could have been obtained by a War?
+
+When the Talk was, of introducing the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_,
+what Measures, what Solicitations were not employ'd by the Powers
+concerned, either to bring over _Lewis_ XV. to their Party, or to oblige
+him to a Neutrality? Count _Sinzendorff's_ coming from _Vienna_ to
+_Versailles_, on purpose to treat for the Tranquillity of _Italy_, seems
+to me a Proof, that the Emperor does not neglect _France_ to such a
+Degree as the Uneasy and Disaffected would fain have it believed. In good
+Truth, if _France_ had not threatened to attack the Emperor, in case he
+did not consent to the Introduction of the _Infante_ into _Tuscany_, would
+his Imperial Majesty have been influenced by the bare Menaces of _Spain_?
+That Monarch is too well established in _Italy_, to fear any thing from
+that Crown; and if Equity and Justice did not always accompany his
+Actions, it would have been easy for him to have taken Possession of
+_Tuscany_; and the _Spaniards_, who have never been able to retake
+_Gibraltar_, and who, perhaps, would never have reduced _Barcelona_
+without the Assistance of the _French_, would have found it a very
+difficult Matter to have turned them out of it. The Cardinal _de Fleury_
+having persuaded the King to declare in Favour of the _Infante_, he
+threatens to join the _English_ and _Spaniards_; and the Emperor seeing
+all _Europe_ against him, but especially _France_, which is capable of
+striking the hardest Blows, yields to the Times, and grants every thing
+that is desired of him. Can there be any thing more to the Honour of the
+Cardinal? And, Why should a War be undertaken, if Menaces alone are
+sufficient to obtain what is desired?
+
+But, say the Disaffected, we purchase Peace of all the World by our Money.
+The Cardinal is not chargeable with lavishing the King's Money. I know not
+that he gives away any, unless it be the Subsidies granted to the Crowns
+of _Denmark_ and _Sweden_. If that be purchasing a Peace, _Lewis_ XIV. and
+the Regent after him, were much more lavish of the Royal Treasure, and
+perhaps with less Profit; and it would be easy to demonstrate, that in
+order to dislodge the _Spaniards_ from _Sicily_, the Regent sent more
+Money into _Germany_ and _England_, in one Month, than the Cardinal gives
+away in a Year to the Northern Crowns; tho' one of 'em has for Time out of
+Mind been used to draw Subsidies from _France_. Yet all this while, the
+Regent was not accused of purchasing a Peace of his Neighbours; because,
+in order to make it necessary to buy a Peace, some Prince or other must
+have threatened him with a War. But 'tis certain, that no Power did then,
+or does now, think of attacking _France_. Let her continue peaceable, and
+there we will leave her.
+
+But on the other hand, tho' it were not justifiable for the Cardinal to
+entertain pacific Sentiments, and tho' he were to indulge the Passion of
+the _French_, I would fain know of those who are so hot for a War, Whether
+they are well assured it would have a happy Issue? And, Whether, when a
+War is once begun, it would be in their Power to put an End to it,
+whenever they thought it consistent with their Affairs? Nay, I will
+suppose that every thing should happen as they would wish, and that the
+War should prove a fortunate one; What Acquisition can _France_ make,
+which would not be more to her Expence than her Advantage? For the farther
+she extends her Conquests, the more Enemies she will have of Course, and
+the more Troops she will be oblig'd to maintain. The Frontiers of the
+Kingdom are secured. Are a few more Towns, nay, an intire Province, a
+sufficient Temptation for a King of _France_? And are they an Equivalent
+for the Blood and Treasure that must be expended to acquire them? No,
+surely, the Cardinal is perfectly in the right, and I must beg the
+_Frenchmen's_ Pardon, when I tell 'em, they know not what they would be
+at. How desirous were they of the late Peace? And they have scarce tasted
+the Fruits of it, but they now want a War. If the Cardinal should enter
+into a War, and the Consequences of it should prove fatal, Would they not
+throw the Blame upon him? They would say for the Purpose, that it was
+inconsistent with a Priest to make War. For my Part, I think the Cardinal
+_de Fleury_ has substantial Reasons for doing what he does. The _French_
+have been so long accustomed to the turbulent Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. which
+was interspersed throughout with great Events, that they know not how to
+reconcile themselves to one that is more placid and calm; but 'tis to be
+hoped, they will ere long. Whatever they do, the Cardinal seems to be very
+easy, let them say what they will of him. As he knows that he has nothing
+to reproach himself with, and that he has always preferred the Good of the
+Public to his own private Interest, he is afraid of no Revolution in his
+Fortune. He is sensible that Innocence always holds up its Head, and that
+real Merit is above the Reach of Envy and Malice.
+
+M. _Daguesseau_ the Chancellor of _France_, is the Chief Magistrate of the
+Kingdom, and his Office is attended with such great Prerogatives, that the
+King cannot take it from him. The Person whom he succeeded in this eminent
+Dignity, was M. _Voisin_, who being Secretary of War, was made Chancellor
+by _Lewis_ XIV. upon M. _de Pontchartrain_'s resigning that Post, to
+devote the Residue of his Life to God in Retirement. M. _Voisin_ dying
+suddenly in the Beginning of the Duke of _Orlean_'s Regency, M.
+_Daguesseau_, then Attorney-General, was, by his Royal Highness, appointed
+Chancellor in his Room. All _France_ applauded this Choice. Every body was
+so satisfied of this Magistrate's Candour and Integrity, that nobody
+doubted he would assert Justice and Equity; and in short, he perfectly
+answered the Expectations of the Public. But as true Merit, is always the
+most envied, a Cabal was soon formed against his Integrity. M.
+_Daguesseau_ refused to put the Seal to certain Edicts, which he thought
+contrary to the Welfare of the Government; at which the Duke of _Orleans_
+was so incensed, that he banished the Chancellor to _Frene_, a fine Seat
+belonging to that Minister near _Meaux_; and the Seals were given to M.
+_d'Argenson_, Lieutenant of the Police, with the Title of Keeper of the
+Seals, which was formerly no more than a bare Commission; but the Regent
+was then for erecting it into an Office. The Parliament of _Paris_
+exclaimed very much against this Innovation, but the Regent, after all,
+was obey'd. Upon the Death of M. _d'Argenson_, the Chancellor was
+recall'd, and the Seals restor'd to[55]him; but he held them not long; for
+the Regent, who was resolved to have no Ministers but such as knew how to
+obey, disgraced the Chancellor a second time for opposing his Will, and
+gave the Seals to M. _d'Armenonville_. The latter dying during the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_'s Ministry, the Seals were given to M. _de
+Chauvelin_, who, besides the Title of Keeper of the Seals, has also the
+Office of Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. The
+Chancellor, who has been recalled for some time, assists at the Council;
+but his Office has been depriv'd of its greatest Lustre, since the Seals
+have been separated from it.
+
+M. _Chauvelin_, Keeper of the Seals, Minister and Secretary of[56]State
+for Foreign Affairs, owes his Advancement to the Cardinal _de Fleury_,
+who seems to confide in him intirely. This Minister is reckon'd very
+laborious, good-natur'd and civil. The Foreign Ministers are so taken with
+him, that they think no more of Messieurs _de Torcy_ and _de Morville_.
+The former was of the _Colbert_ Family, Secretary of Foreign Affairs under
+_Lewis_ XIV. a Man, as one may say, born for the Ministry, and whose great
+and good Services have been very much cry'd-up, but more rewarded by the
+Applauses of _Europe_, than by Favours from the Court. The other was the
+Son of the late Keeper of the Seals, _d'Armenonville_, and had acquir'd a
+great Reputation in his Embassies to _Holland_, and the Congress of
+_Cambray_, when he desired Leave to[57] retire, and was succeeded by M.
+_Chauvelin_.
+
+The Count _de Maurepas_ is Grandson to the Chancellor _de Pontchartrain_,
+and Son to the Count _de Pontchartrain_, Secretary for the Maritime
+Affairs in the Reign of King _Lewis_ XIV. He enter'd very young into the
+Ministry, and has so behav'd as to gain Friends and Dependants. I have not
+heard one Man give him an ill Word, while every body speaks well of him;
+but as for his Secretaries, or chief Clerks, the Seafaring People often
+exclaim against the Airs of Importance which some of those Scribes put on,
+who watch all Opportunities to impose on the Honesty of the Minister, in
+Favour of their Creatures, to the Prejudice of other Subjects, who have
+more Merit.
+
+The Count _de S. Florentin_ is of the Family of _Phelypeaux_, as is also
+the Count _de Maurepas_, who married his Sister. He is the Son of M. _de
+la Vrilliere_, Secretary of State; and had the Reversion of his Father's
+Office granted him by the Regent, when he was scarce twenty Years of Age.
+M. _de la Vrilliere_ dying not long before the King's Marriage, M. _de S.
+Florentin_ entered on his Office. He has that Province which relates to
+Affairs Ecclesiastical. He married, some Years ago, the Daughter of the
+late Count _de Platen_, Great Chamberlain, and Hereditary Post-Master of
+_Hanover_; but neither of 'em knew one another before the Match was made.
+Mademoiselle _de Platen_ was a _Lutheran_, but is turn'd _Catholic_. The
+Lady, her Mother, for Whom I had as profound a Veneration as for any Woman
+in the World, and whose Memory I still revere, brought her into _France_.
+M. _de S. Florentin_ has Reason to be pleas'd with the Choice he has made:
+For his Lady is not only very charming, but has noble Sentiments, and a
+Virtue which Calumny itself durst not asperse. When she married M. _de S.
+Florentin_, King _George_ I. of _Great Britain_ settled a Pension upon her
+of forty thousand Livres, for forty-five Years; and King _George_ II. on
+his Accession to the Crown, was pleased to confirm the said Pension, upon
+that Lady's going to _London_ to solicit it, in Company with her
+Mother-in-law Madame _de la Vrilliere_, now Duchess of _Mazarine_.
+
+M. _d'Angervilliers_, formerly Intendant of _Alsace_, is Secretary of the
+War-Office, in which he succeeded M. _le Blanc_, who was the Secretary a
+second time, when he died at _Versailles_. The first time that he was
+Secretary, he was supplanted by M. _de Breteuil_, during the Ministry of
+the Duke _de Bourbon_; and he, in his Turn, supplanted M. _de Breteuil_,
+the Queen's Chancellor, in the Ministry of the Cardinal _de Fleury_.
+You see by this, that the War-Office has been several times chang'd
+in a few Years; but 'tis like to remain always in the Hands of M.
+_d'Angervilliers_, whose Application, Vigilance and Integrity, are very
+much cry'd-up by the Officers, and all that have to do with him. I gave
+you some Account of this Minister, when I wrote to you from _Strasbourg_,
+to which I have nothing to add.
+
+As the Secretary of War has been often chang'd of late Years, the
+Comptroller-General of the Finances has been much more so. From the Year
+1711, when I first came to _Paris_, to this Day, I have known seven
+Comptrollers General, and not one of 'em died in the Office: So that this
+Post may well be compared to that of the Grand _Vizier_, which is alike
+struggled for, and alike fatal to those who are invested with it.
+
+Of all the Men who have had that ticklish Employment of Comptroller-General
+in _France_, there is not one that has made a more shining Fortune, and a
+Fortune that sooner slipp'd from him, than _John Law_. This Man, of whom
+many People have wrote and talk'd without knowing him, and according to
+their Passions, was a _Scotsman_, born with a narrow Fortune, but strong
+Desires to inlarge it. He had travell'd through several Parts of _Europe_,
+and Gaming prov'd his chief Subsistence. He won considerable Sums in
+_Italy_, especially at _Genoa_; and there it was that he hatch'd all those
+Projects which he put in Execution in _France_. 'Tis true, that he did not
+come into this Kingdom, till he had offered his Services to _Victor
+Amadeus_, the King of _Sardinia_. This Prince told him, That his Dominions
+were too small for the Execution of so great a Design; but that _France_
+was a Theatre, where he might expect to make his Market, and thither he
+advised him to go. _If I know the Humour of the +French+_, added the King,
+_I am sure they will relish your Schemes_. _John Law_ took the Monarch's
+Advice, and shewed his Project to the Regent, who approved it; and the
+Projector soon found, that he had the Purses of the _French_ absolutely at
+his Command. As he was a Protestant, he made his Abjuration in the
+_Recollets_ Church at _Melun_, in the Diocese of _Sens_, in the Month of
+_December_ 1719, in the Hands of the Abbe[58]_Tancin_. In the Month of
+_January_ following, he was made Comptroller-General; but he quitted that
+Post in _June_; abruptly left _Paris_ on the thirteenth of _December_
+1720; and after rambling about for a while, not knowing where to fix, (for
+his own Country did not suit him) he died at _Munich_. The Generality of
+the _French_ accuse him of having exhausted _France_, and sent away
+immense Sums to Foreign Countries. How true this is, I know not, but 'tis
+certain, that _Law_, after his Disgrace, liv'd very meanly. His Widow and
+his Son, (Mr. _John Law_)[59] who are actually at _Utrecht_, make no very
+great Figure there, which very many People ascribe to Policy. But for my
+own Part, who think more freely, and don't see what could hinder Mrs.
+_Law_ and her Son from making a Display of their Riches, in the Country
+where they live; I can't help crediting what People, and such as were
+_John Law_'s Intimates, have assured me for a certain Truth, _viz._ That
+_Law_ being puff'd-up with his Fortune, and not thinking it would be so
+short-liv'd, had no Thought of securing it in Foreign Countries; and that
+if he had such a Purpose, he had not Time to send any Sums out of the
+Kingdom. He was oblig'd both by Necessity, and out of Policy, to make
+Purchases in _France_; and accordingly he made considerable Acquisitions;
+but they were no more than a pleasant Dream to him, and the Loss of them
+only made his Disgrace the greater Affliction. I am of their Opinion, who
+believe that _John Law_ was richer when he came to _France_, than he was
+three Months after he left it. This Copy of Verses was made upon him,
+which, perhaps, you will not be sorry to see[60].
+
+    The TITLE of it is, A COMMISSION of the OFFICE of
+    COMPTROLLER-GENERAL of the FINANCES, for Mr. JOHN LAW.
+
+      _De par le Dieu porte-marotte,
+      Nous General de la Calotte,
+      Attendu que le Regiment
+      Est oblige sensiblement
+      Au Sieur +Law+, de qui la Science
+      Et conduite dans la Finance
+      Nous a donne maints Calotins,
+      En inventant les Bulletins,
+      Autrement dits Billets de Banque,
+      Pour servir au jeu de la Blanque,
+      Jeu non renouvelle des Grecs,
+      Comme le Fade jeu de l'Oye,
+      Mais imagine tout expres
+      Pour exciter l'homme a la joye:
+      Temoin les Plaisans viremens,
+      Et continuels changemens,
+      Que l'on a vu dans le Royaume
+      De Quinquempoix & de Vendome,
+      Et Principaute de Soissons,
+      Ou l'Achat & le Dividende_
+      _Causoient un Rumeur st grande,
+      Qu'on ne vit jamais tant de Rats
+      Obseder gens de tous etats:
+      Mari, Femme, Garcon & Fille!
+      Laquais, Servantes, la Famille!
+      En un mot, sans rien excepter,
+      Venoit jouer & blanqueter,
+      Et s'y portoit de telle sorte,
+      Qu'il falloit Gardes a la Porte
+      Pour renvoyer chacun chez soi,
+      Apres les trois coups de Beffroi.
+      La de tous Pais & Provinces,
+      Marchands, Magistrats, Artisans,
+      Prelats, Guerriers & Courtisans,
+      Ducs & Pairs, & meme des Princes,
+      Non du Pais, mais bien forains,
+      Accouroient comme des Essains,
+      Malgre vent, grele, pluye & crotte,
+      Pour y jouer a la Marotte,
+      En beaux & bons deniers comptant,
+      Contre des Voleurs Calotines,
+      Dont la +France+ & terres voisines
+      Se pourront souvenir longtems._
+
+        _A ces Causes, vu l'Abondance
+      Des Calotins qui sont en +France+
+      De tous Rangs & de tous etats,
+      Par le moyen du dit Sieur +Las+,
+      Nous lui consions nos Finances;
+      Voulons que sur ses Ordonnances
+      Nos fonds soient oeconomises,
+      Augmentes & realises;
+      Afin que selon son merite
+      Chacun ait part, grosse ou petite,
+      Dans nos immenses Revenus,
+      Tant de gros Fonds que de menus.
+      Or comme un pareil Ministere
+      Est sert etendu dans sa Sphere,
+      Lui donnons pour premier Commis,
+      +NOMPAR[61]+ qui des moins endormis
+      Connoit la manoeuvre diverse
+      De la Finance & du Commerce.
+      Lui donnons pour Profits & Droit,
+      Pensions, Gages & Salaries,
+      Le quart de tous les Angles droits,
+      Que couperont les Commissaires
+      Au papier qui sera vise,
+      Et duquel en homme avise
+      Il a si bien grossi le nombre,
+      Que la +France+ y seroit a l'ombre,
+      Si tous le Billets rassembles,
+      Et les uns aux autres colles,
+      On en pouvoit saire une Tente.
+      Au surplus de ladite Rente,
+      Lui donnons notre grand Cordon,
+      Passant de la droite a la gauche,
+      Ainsi qu'un legere ebauche
+      De sa droiture, dont le fond
+      Va si loin que [62]+Terrasson+ meme,
+      Grand calculateur du Systeme,
+      Ne pourroit pas le mesurer.
+      En outre, pour mieux honorer
+      Le chef de ce grand Personnage,
+      Qui fit bouquer tout homme sage,
+      Et soi disant docte & profond,
+      Lui donnons Calotte de plomb,
+      De la haute et premiere classe;
+      Et pour surcroit de telle grace,
+      Joignons a ces [63]Coqs dont la voix
+      Chanta la Justice au Francois,
+      Papillons, Rats & Girouettes,_
+      _Hannetons Grelots, & Sonnettes.
+      En memoirs d'un si beau chant,
+      Qu'au sortir de +France+ on publie
+      Qu il va chanter en +Italie+,
+      Ou sans doute il aura beau champ
+      Pour exercer son grand Genie,
+      Et sa connoissance infinie
+      Dans l'art de decupler les sonds
+      Par Billets payables a vue,
+      Desquels aujourd'hui nous voyons
+      En +France+ une si bonne Issue.
+      Ordonnons a tous les Pais
+      De notre vaste Dependance,
+      De l'ecouter dans ses avis,
+      Sur-tout dans l'art de la Finance;
+      Art qu'il possede eminemment.
+      Fait au Conseil du Regiment[64]._
+
+'Tis certain, that never was any thing more splendid, than the short Reign
+of his Fortune. The _French_ perfectly idoliz'd, him, and even those who
+turned their Backs to his Altar, could not help admiring him as an
+extraordinary Man. The Nobility did not scruple to pay their Homage to
+him; and I have seen Dukes and Peers of _France_ waiting in his
+Antichamber, like the meanest Subjects. Towards the Close, there was no
+coming to the Speech of him without Money. The _Swiss_ must be feed for
+Entrance at his Gate, the _Lacqueys_ for Admittance into his Antichamber,
+and the _Valets de Chambre_ for the Privilege of Access to his
+Presence-Chamber or Closet. The Audiences too were very short, and People
+were quickly dismissed with very little Merchandise for a great deal of
+Money. Mean time he was civil, and his Fortune did not seem to have puff'd
+him up. He was a fine handsome Man, of a fair Complexion, as the _English_
+generally are, and had a very noble Port. Nobody understood _Algebra_
+better than he did, and, let his Enemies say what they please, his System
+was good in itself, and might have been beneficial to _France_, if it had
+been punctually follow'd.
+
+The Scheme was calculated for keeping two Thirds more of Species in the
+Kingdom, than of Bills, in which Case there would always have been Money
+enough to have paid off those Bills. But this did not satisfy the Avarice
+of the Under-strappers; and in 1720, when the Bank Bills were put down,
+there were two Thirds of Bills in the Kingdom, to one Third of Money,
+_viz._ five hundred Millions of Money, to a thousand Millions in Bills;
+and M. _d'Argenson_, the Protector of the four Brothers of the Name of
+_Paris_, prevailed on the Regent to circulate 1760 Millions of
+extraordinary Bills not registered, with which People bought and sold
+Shares; and during this Commerce, the Bills were realiz'd by the Brokers
+into Species; insomuch that, according to a Computation then made by
+_Bareme_, they say, that at the Time of the total Suppression of the
+Bills, which was in _October_ 1720, there were more Livres _Tournois_ in
+the famous Bank of _Missisippi_, than there had been Minutes since the
+Creation of the World. All this Variety of Bills had so stupified the
+_Parisians_, and they gave them such intire Credit, that before the Arret
+of the fifteenth of _May_ 1720, which sunk the Bills from ten _per Cent.
+per Mensem_ to half their Value, a _Parisian_ did not care to be paid in
+Specie; for he thought Bills were far better, not only because they were
+not liable to be lower'd, but because they were more ready to count, and
+especially to carry. A Man that had Millions in his Pocket did not
+perceive the Weight of 'em, whereas but one hundred _Louis-d'ors_ are too
+heavy; and, how was it possible for a Man to carry them in his Pocket
+without being tir'd? While Peoples Fortunes were in Paper, I could boast
+of having had a Letter-case once in my Hands, in which there were Notes to
+the Value of thirty-two Millions. If they had been my own, I question
+whether I should have let them lie in Bank Bills, with the Hazard of
+losing half the Value. What follows, is a short, but curious Account of
+this Scheme[65].
+
+_Lewis_ XIV. a little before he died, was two thousand two hundred
+Millions in Debt: But by the Reduction of the Principal and Interest of
+the Revenues of the Town-House, (of _Paris_) by strikeing off two fifths
+upon all Contracts, and by reducing Interest to four _per Cent._ the Debts
+of the State were reduced to one thousand eight hundred Millions; which
+was the very Sum that was owing from the Crown, when _Lewis_ XV. came to
+it. The Debts of the Government were afterwards reduced to one thousand
+four hundred Millions, by sinking a Quarter, a half and three-fourths upon
+the State Bills, as well as all other Debts owing by the King, as also on
+Pensions, and by the Recovery of great Sums thro' the Chamber of Justice.
+Mr. _Law_ thought he should be able to extinguish all the Debts, by a
+Scheme which he form'd upon the Profits that were made by _Missisippi_.
+For this Purpose he erected a Bank, and caused as many Shares to be
+created, as amounted to one hundred and fifty Millions, at one hundred
+Livres each, payable in State Bills, which, to the Advantage of the
+Buyers, rose to no less than one thousand. After this, he created more
+Actions, to the Value of one hundred and five Millions, payable in Money
+or Effects, at one thousand _per Cent._ which, with the former one hundred
+and fifty Millions, produced one thousand six hundred and fifty Millions;
+a Sum more than sufficient to cancel all the King's Debts. Besides this,
+Mr. _Law_ created Bank Bills for one thousand two hundred Millions, of
+which he received the Value, either in Money or Effects. He raised the
+Money higher, upon which there were at least three hundred Millions
+Profit, that are not brought to the Accompt. He compelled all People to
+carry their Money to the Bank, by certain Arrets, which injoin'd People at
+first, to keep no more than one hundred Livres by them, and afterwards but
+five hundred. So that in eight Months Management, he augmented the old
+Debts of the State, that were one thousand four hundred Millions, to one
+thousand six hundred and fifty Millions; which, added to the one thousand
+two hundred Millions of the Bank, rise to two thousand eight hundred and
+fifty Millions, due at this Time from the King. If to this we add the
+_Praemium_ to which the Actions rose, which at one thousand eight hundred
+among private People, make five thousand four hundred Millions more; to
+which the one thousand two hundred Millions in Bank Bills must be added;
+it will appear that the Public is charg'd with six thousand six hundred
+Millions in Paper; and for the paying off of that Sum, there will be but
+five hundred Millions in the Kingdom in Specie, when they are reduced to
+their intrinsic Value. The King having received one thousand six hundred
+and five Millions in Effects, of which he owed the greatest Part, and
+Actions or Shares being taken instead thereof, which Actions, by secret
+Management, rose to five thousand four hundred Millions among the
+Subjects, Mr. _Law_ thereby gave the People the Opportunity of putting
+three thousand seven hundred and five Millions in their Pockets.
+
+    An ACCOUNT of the BANK BILLS that subsisted, and of those that
+    were burnt.
+
+  Bills engraved                  669000000
+  Bills printed                  1927400000
+                                 ----------
+                    _Viz._
+
+  Bills of 10000 Livres          1134000000
+            1000                 1123200000
+             100                  299200000
+              10                   40000000
+                                 ----------
+                           Total 2596400000
+
+  Bills burnt of 10000 Livres     562500000
+                  1000            138528000
+                   100              6026000
+                    10               273460
+                                 ----------
+                            Total 707327460
+
+  There then remained therefore}
+    in Trade                   } 1989072540
+
+The Fortunes made at _Paris_, during this _Missisippi_ Contagion, are so
+extraordinary, that unless one had seen it, 'twere impossible to believe
+it; and, what is still more unaccountable, the greatest were rais'd by
+mere Scoundrels; for except a few of the Court Lords and Ladies, it look'd
+as if Fortune had resolved to put the Gentry into Almshouses, for the Sake
+of inriching a Parcel of Bankrupts, Lacqueys, Beggars, and other of the
+Mobility[66]. And 'tis my real Opinion, that if God had not interpos'd,
+Footmen would at length have been the Masters, and the Masters the
+Footmen. The Handicraftsmen laid by their Work; there was nothing talked
+of but Actions, and every Place echoed with _Missisippi_ and
+_Quinquempoix_, which is the Street where all that hopeful Trade was
+carried on.
+
+These lucky _Missisippians_ have nevertheless seen the Turn of Fortune's
+Wheel. The Generality of those who had not the Precaution to send their
+Money out of the Kingdom, were called to Accompt, and obliged to disgorge
+a Part of their Gains. Whether the King got much by this Scrutiny, I know
+not; but I believe it had the same Fate as the Chamber of Justice,
+established in 1716, in the _Augustins_ Convent at _Paris_, for the
+Prosecution of People employ'd in the Finances. This Tribunal, at the Head
+of which was M. _de Portail_, now the first President, had condemned
+several Tax Gatherers for an infinite Number of Misdemeanors committed in
+the King's Finances. Some were punished as they justly deserved. A great
+many were tax'd in Proportion to the Declarations they were forced to make
+of their immense Wealth, which might have produc'd very considerable Sums
+for the Ease of the Government, at that Time plung'd over Head and Ears in
+Debt. But these Bloodsuckers of the People compounded for a Trifle of
+Expence, by a few Presents to a Lady, or to some Nobleman who had the
+Favour of the Regent. This was a Golden Shower, of which the least Part
+fell into the King's Coffers.
+
+I have made a terrible Digression. Mr. _Law_ carried me to _Missisippi_,
+which is a long Voyage, and a Country from whence a Man can't return
+whenever he has a Mind to it; but I am now come back to the Court. I have
+mentioned the Ministers to you, but they are not the only Persons that
+have a Seat in the Council. One of its Members is the Marshal _de
+Villars_, who being of all the _French_ Generals, the Man that made the
+most shining Figure during the last War, I think myself oblig'd to give
+you a more particular Account of him.
+
+_Francis Hector_, Duke _de Villars_, Marshal of _France_, and Dean of the
+Marshals, is a Gentleman of a good Family, his Father having been a
+Commander of the King's Orders. His Stature is above the middle Size, and
+he has the Port and Step of a Nobleman. He has an agreeable winning
+Countenance, and hazel Eyes, which are lively and sparkling. He is a Man
+of Penetration, crafty, complaisant, and capable of great Affairs. He
+talks a great deal; but what he says is to the Purpose. He is laborious,
+attach'd to, and indefatigable in Business, a courageous good Soldier, and
+a successful General. Satire charges him with Avarice, as it did the Duke
+of _Marlborough_ his Rival: He is, withal, accused of being too haughty,
+and too conceited of his Actions, and his Merits. This, indeed, may be
+true enough; for I myself was Witness to a Conversation, in which he
+discovered it sufficiently plain. 'Twas the Winter after the Battle of
+_Denain_, when the Marshall being at Dinner with the late[67]M.
+_d'Armagnac_, Great Master of the Horse, where I was likewise a Guest; he
+talked a great deal about his Exploits, to which I listened so
+attentively, that he took Notice of it; and being unknown to him, he
+whispered the Master of the Horse in the Ear, to know who I was; and when
+the Marshal was told that I was a _German_, he paid me a good deal of
+Respect. Then resuming his Discourse, and addressing it to me, he talked
+of his Victory at _Denain_, with an Air of mighty Self-Applause. _But
+why_, said he, _did your People drown themselves? I am merciful, I would
+have given them Quarter_; _and they ought surely to have asked it_. I
+declare to you, that my Soul was all in Fire for the Honour of _Germany_.
+Those Words, Mercy and Quarter, I took for an Insult upon my Country. I
+was young and hot-headed, and was just going to return him an Answer that
+would not have become me; however, I kept my Temper, and 'twas not till
+the second or third Provocation that I made him Answer, _That I did not
+think he ought to be surprized at what the +German+ Troops did, because
+they had known his Valour sufficiently before the Battle of +Denain+, but
+never had a Trial of his Clemency_. I saw that he did not relish my
+Answer, upon which he shifted the Subject, and did not speak a Word more
+to me all the Time.
+
+Some time after the Peace, however, I made him Satisfaction: 'Twas at the
+House of the Duchess _de Lude_, Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Burgundy_. There was a great deal of Company, and among the rest, the
+Marshal _de Villars_. The Conversation fell upon the Custom of the
+Ancients, to give Surnames to their Heroes; and the Moderns were blam'd
+for not doing so too. _What Name should we find for you, Marshal?_ said
+the Duchess _de Lude_. I replied immediately, _This would be no difficult
+Task. I don't think that any Title would suit the Marshal +de Villars+
+better than that of +Germanicus Franciscus+_. This Trifle hit the
+Marshal's Taste so nicely, that he put on a smiling Countenance, and said
+a great many obliging Things to me.
+
+The Marshal _de Villars_, in his Youth, was a Page to _Lewis_ XIV. He
+enter'd into the Service very young, and distinguished himself at his
+first setting-out, so that he really owes his Advancement more to his
+Services and Merit, than to Fortune. After the Peace of _Ryswic_, he had
+the Care of the King's Affairs at the Emperor's Court; but was recalled
+from thence a little before the War began, upon Account of the Succession
+to the King of _Spain_, _Charles_ II. When the War was declared, M. _de
+Villars_, at that time Lieutenant-General, was in the Army in _Germany_,
+commanded by the Marshal _Catinat_. The Marquis _de Villars_, with a
+Detachment from the Army, attack'd the _Imperialists_ near _Fridlinguen_
+in 1702. The _French_ said, that he won the Victory; the _Germans_ say,
+No. Which Party is in the Right, I can't tell; but be it as it will, the
+Staff of a Marshal of _France_ was M. _de Villars_ Reward for the Battle.
+The same Year the Duke of _Savoy_ entring into an Alliance against the two
+Crowns, at the very Time that he assured them of his Attachment, the
+Treaty which that Prince made with the Emperor and his Allies, was kept
+secret for a while, tho' not so secret but the Elector of _Bavaria_ knew
+of it; and his Electoral Highness reproaching the Envoy of _Savoy_ with
+it, that Minister actually swore he knew nothing of the Matter, and that,
+moreover, he did not believe it; upon which the Marshal _de Villars_, who
+was present, clapp'd his Hand upon the Envoy's Shoulder, and repeated
+this Verse to him out of _Racine_; _Tu ne le crois que trop, malheureux
++Mithridate+_, _i. e._ Ah! poor _Mithridates_! thou believest it but too
+much. In 1704, the Marshal _de Villars_ was recalled from the Army in
+_Germany_, to command in the _Cevennois_, where he gained Palms and
+Olives, as well as Laurels; for by his good Nature and Moderation he
+pacified a Rebellion, which the too great Severity of his Predecessor, the
+Marshal _de Montrevel_, had but the more inflamed.
+
+After this, he had the Command of the Army in _Germany_, and kept it till
+1709, when he went into the _Netherlands_ to relieve the Duke _de
+Vendosme_, who was sent into _Spain_. M. _de Villars_, when in _Flanders_,
+retriev'd the Honour of _France_, which had been sully'd there by several
+Defeats. For tho' the _French_ suffer'd another at the Battle of
+_Malplaquet_, yet they made so brave a Stand, that the Allies could not
+help admiring their Courage. The Marshal _de Villars_, being wounded in
+the Knee, was obliged to retire, and to leave the Command to the Marshal
+_de Boufflers_, who drew off the Army in good Order. They give out, that
+when the Marshal _de Villars_ heard the News, he said, _+Villars+ was not
+there; he could not be everywhere_. The Allies paid dear for this Victory;
+for they lost twenty-three thousand Men, besides a considerable Number of
+Officers of Distinction. They might say as _Pyrrhus_ did, after the Defeat
+of the _Romans_, _One more such a Victory, and I am undone_. The _French_
+lost eight thousand one hundred thirty-seven Men; and during the whole
+Course of the War, there was not a more bloody, nor a more obstinate
+Battle.
+
+The Campaign of 1712 was the most glorious to the Marshal _de Villars_, of
+any that he ever made; for he therein gained the Victory at _Denain_, and
+in two Months time took from the Allies what had cost them several
+Campaigns.
+
+'Twas about the same time, that, upon the Death of the Duke _de Vendome_
+at _Vinaroz_ in _Spain_, _Lewis_ XIV. conferr'd his Government of
+_Provence_ upon the Marshal, who was also made a Duke and Peer. They tell
+a Story, that when he went to take Possession of his Government, and the
+Deputies of the Province presented him with a Purse full of _Lewis d'Ors_,
+One of 'em said, _Here_, my Lord, _is such another Purse as that we gave
+to the Duke +de Vendome+, when, like you, he came to be our Governor; but
+that Prince refus'd to take it_. _Ah!_ said the Marshal _de Villars_,
+squeezing the Purse, _M. +de Vendome+ has not left his Fellow behind him_.
+
+The War in the _Netherlands_ being finish'd by the Peace at _Utrecht_, the
+Marshal _de Villars_ had again the Command of the Army in _Germany_. When
+he took his Leave of the King, he said to him, _I most humbly intreat your
+Majesty to consider, that I leave you in the midst of my Enemies, whilst I
+am going to fight yours_. He actually took _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, and
+afterwards return'd to _Versailles_, to receive the King's Orders to go
+and treat of a Peace with Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. During the Campaign
+his Enemies told the King, in hopes his Majesty would blame him for it,
+that he had laid out the Sum of 1800,000 Livres in the Purchase of an
+Estate. The King asking him one Day at Dinner, if it was true that he had
+made such a Purchase; _Yes, Sir_, replied the Marshal, who suspected that
+those who told the King of it were then at the Table, _I have bought an
+Estate which cost me 1800,000 Livres; and if the War continues, and your
+Majesty trusts me with the Command of your Army, I hope to purchase a more
+considerable one next Year at the Expence of your Enemies_. But instead of
+making another Campaign, the Marshal went to _Rastadt_, where he and
+Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ sign'd the Preliminaries of the Peace, which
+those two Generals concluded afterwards at _Baden_ on the seventh of
+_June_ 1714. Since that time the Marshal has always resided at Court. The
+_French_ look upon him as the Restorer of their Reputation in the
+_Netherlands_, the Support of the State, and the chief Captain of his
+Time: He is loaded with Wealth and Dignities: He is a Duke and Peer, a
+Marshal of _France_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight Commander of the
+King's Orders, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Governor of _Provence_.
+He has an only Son, for whom he has obtain'd the Reversion of his
+Government[68].
+
+Perhaps I have detain'd you too long about the Marshal _de Villars_; but I
+thought the little Particularities I have given you would do you a
+Pleasure, and that you would not be sorry to know some Circumstances of a
+Man, who, after all, has been much cry'd-up in _Europe_. I shall be more
+brief in my Account of the other Noblemen, and of these I shall name but
+two or three, of whom you have heard some Talk, and such as are in most
+Reputation with us.
+
+_James Fitz-James_ Duke of _Berwic_, a Peer and Marshal of _France_, a
+Peer of _England_, a Grandee of _Spain_, a Knight of the Garter, and of
+the Golden Fleece, is the legitimated Son of _James_ II. King of _Great
+Britain_[69]. He follow'd his Father to _France_, where he served with
+Distinction. In 1706 he had the Marshal's Staff given him; and in 1707 he
+commanded the Army of the two Crowns in _Spain_, where he defeated the
+Lord _Gallway_ near _Almanza_. The King of _Spain_, to reward him for such
+great Service, made him a Grandee of _Spain_, and gave him the Duchy of
+_Liria_, which M. _de Berwic_ yielded to his eldest Son, who is actually
+in Possession of it. In 1714 the Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_ reduc'd
+_Barcelona_ under the Obedience of _Philip_ V. This City had refus'd to
+acknowledge that Prince, and tho' abandon'd, and without any Hopes of
+Relief, continued the War with an Obstinacy of Men who seem'd to be
+desperate. The very Women, the Priests, Friers, all were Soldiers in
+_Barcelona_; and during the Siege, which held sixty-one Days with open
+Trenches, after a Blockade of eleven Months, there were five hundred and
+forty-three Friers and Priests kill'd and wounded in the Sallies and
+Attacks. The City was taken on the eleventh of _September_ by Storm: The
+Battle lasted from Four o'Clock in the Morning till Eleven, when the
+Inhabitants retir'd into the new Town, which is only separated from the
+other by a single Wall. They surrender'd next Day at Discretion to the
+Marshal-Duke _de Berwic_, who gave them a verbal Promise to save their
+Lives, and to protect the City from Plunder, on their paying down a large
+Sum of Money. _Barcelona_ being thus reduc'd, the Marshal return'd to
+_France_ loaded with Wealth and Honours. Upon the Death of King _Lewis_
+XIV. he was admitted to the Council of the Regency, and sent soon after to
+command in _Guienne_. The Regent gave him the Command of the Army against
+the King of _Spain_, which his Royal Highness had before offer'd to the
+Marshal _de Villars_; but that Nobleman told him, He would never draw his
+Sword against a Prince who might one Day become his Sovereign, a Prince
+for whose Service he had already spilt some Blood, and one for whom the
+Kingdom had expended such a Treasure. The Marshal-Duke of _Berwic_, being
+not so delicate, accepted of the Command, took _St. Sebastian_, and obey'd
+the Regent much more than he was bound to do in Duty.
+
+For this he was continued in the Command of _Guienne_, and particularly of
+_Bourdeaux_. For some time past the Marshal-Duke has been very much at
+Court, and often at his Ducal Lordship in _Picardy_[70].
+
+_Victor-Maria_ Duke _d'Estrees_, whom I ought to have mention'd before the
+Duke of _Berwic_, as being the oldest Marshal of _France_, is
+Vice-Admiral of the Kingdom, a Duke and Peer, a Grandee of _Spain_, a
+Commandeur of the King's Orders, and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. He is
+the last of his Family, which has been render'd illustrious by all the
+great Dignities of the Kingdom ever since[71] the charming _Gabriella
+d'Estrees_, who was Mistress to _Henry_ IV. He lives with as much Splendor
+and Magnificence as most Noblemen in _France_: His House is open to all
+Foreigners of Distinction, and Men of Knowledge and Learning are well
+receiv'd in it. The Marshal has a fine Library, a most beautiful Cabinet
+of Medals, and a complete Collection of antique Stones that are grav'd.
+Besides the Estate of the Family of _Estrees_, of which he is the only
+Head, he made great Acquisitions by _Missisippi_ Stock, and there are few
+Sovereigns that have finer Diamonds. Since the Troubles that arose in
+_Bretagne_ during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, the Assembly of
+the States of that Province is always held by this Nobleman. The Nobility
+of _Bretagne_ extol him very much, and find a great Difference between
+their Treatment by this Marshal, and the rigid haughty Air with which the
+late Marshal _de Montesquiou_ carried it to them during the Regency. Tho'
+the Marshal _d'Estrees_ is very much attach'd to the Court, yet he is
+often at _Paris_, where he has a very fine House, and is visited by the
+greatest and the best People in the Kingdom. The Marshal's Lady, who is
+_Noailles_, Sister to the Countess _de Tholouse_, was formerly a Lady of
+the Bed-chamber to the Duchess of _Burgundy_; she has all the Politeness
+of the ancient Court, and tho' she is past the Bloom of her Youth, she is
+still one of the most amiable Women at Court, and by her Management there
+is not a more agreeable Family than hers in the Kingdom. I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 22, 1732._
+
+Yesterday I loiter'd away a good deal of Time with a Couple of
+_Englishmen_, to whom, as they call it in _Italy_, I was a _Cicero_[72].
+Nevertheless, you must not expect me to give you an Account of every thing
+I saw; and besides, so much has been already said of _Versailles_, that
+you shall hardly find one Book in twenty, almost, but what treats of the
+Beauties of this Royal Palace.
+
+After having shew'd my _English_ Gentlemen the Castle, the Chapel, the
+Stables and the Park, I carried them to the Royal Abbey of _St. Cyr_,
+which they had heard so much Talk of, that they long'd to see it: 'Tis a
+grand stately House, and worthy of the Magnificence of the great Monarch
+who founded it, at the Solicitation of Madame _de Maintenon_, for the
+Education of two hundred and fifty young Damsels, whose Families are not
+able to give them a Maintenance suitable to their Birth. Immediately after
+the Demise of _Lewis_ XIV. Madame _de Maintenon_ retir'd to _St. Cyr_, and
+there she always dwelt till she died. She went thither indeed, even
+during the King's Illness, as soon as she found that the Physicians had
+given him over; the King, however, contrary to all Expectation, recover'd;
+and not seeing Madame _de Maintenon_, ask'd where she was: Upon this the
+Lady return'd, when the King gave her a handsome Reprimand for abandoning
+him, and desir'd her to stay with him as long as he had any Remains of
+Life. Madame _de Maintenon_ obey'd, but the King's Breath was no sooner
+out of his Body, than she took Coach, and went to _St. Cyr_, with a Design
+never to stir from it as long as she liv'd.
+
+She had the Consolation, however, of receiving Visits there from all the
+Princes and Princesses of the Blood; and even the late Madame the Regent's
+Mother, who never visited Madame _de Maintenon_ in the King's Life-time,
+thought she could not excuse herself from making her a Visit. The Regent
+went thither likewise, and told her, she might depend upon his punctual
+Regard to every Tittle that the late King had order'd in her Favour by his
+last Will and Testament. Madame _de Maintenon_ return'd him Thanks, and
+said, that as she was resolv'd to be retir'd for the Residue of her Life,
+she desir'd but 40,000 Livres a Year for her Subsistance. Four Years after
+this she died, and was interr'd in the Church of _St. Cyr_, in the Middle
+of the Choir, in a Tomb of plain black Marble, with the following Epitaph
+engrav'd on it; which I lik'd so well, that I have copied it Word for
+Word, and send it to you, because I don't believe you have seen it
+elsewhere.
+
+                                CY  GIT
+
+      _Tres baute & tres puissante Dame
+      Madame_ FRANCOISE D'AUBIGNE,
+      _Marquise de_ MAINTENON;
+      _Femme Illustre, Femme vraiment Chretienne;
+      Cette Femme forte que le Sage chercha vainement dans son Siecle,
+      Et qu'il nous eut propose pour modele, s'il eut vecu dans le notre.
+        Sa Naissance fut tres noble.
+      On loua de bonne heure son Esprit, & plus encore sa Vertu.
+      La Sagesse, la Douceur, la Modestie sormoient son Caractere,
+        Qui ne se dementit jamais.
+      Toujours egale dans les differentes situations de sa vie;
+      Memes Principles, memes Regles, memes Vertus.
+        Fidele dans les exercices de Piete,
+      Tranquille au milieu des agitations de la Cour,
+        Simple dans la Grandeur,
+        Pauvre dans le centre des richesses,
+        Humble au comble des honneurs;
+      Reveree de_ LOUIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environnee de sa gloire,
+      Autorisee par sa plus intime confiance,
+        Depositaire de ses graces,
+      Qui n'a jamais fait d'usage de son pouvoir,
+        Que par sa bonte.
+      Une autre Esther dans la faveur,
+      Une seconde Judith dans la Retraite & l'Oraison:
+        La Mere des Pauvres,
+      L'Asyle toujours sur des malheureux,
+          Une vie si illustre
+      A ete terminee par un mort sainte
+          Et precieuse devant Dieu.
+      Son Corps est reste dans cette sainte maison,
+        Dont elle avoit procure l'etablissement;
+          Et elle a laisse a l'univers
+          L'exemple de ses vertus.
+        Decedee le 15 d'Avril 1719.
+        Nee le 28 de Novembre 1635._
+
+                                 i. e.
+
+                               HERE LIES
+
+      _The most high and most potent Lady_
+      _The Lady_ FRANCESE D'AUBIGNY,
+         _Marchioness of_ MAINTENON.
+      _A Wife illustrious_[73], _a Woman truly Christian;
+      That virtuous Heroine whom the wise Man sought in vain in his Time,
+      And whom he wou'd have propos'd to us for a Pattern, if he had
+            liv'd in ours.
+        She was of Birth most noble,
+      Her Wit was early commended, and much more her Virtue.
+      Sobriety, good Nature and Modesty, form'd her Character,
+        From which she never derogated.
+      Always unchangeable in the various Situations of her Life;
+      The same Principles, the same Rules, the same Virtues.
+        Sincere in the Exercises of Piety,
+      Tranquil during the Storms at Court,
+          Plain in the Midst of Grandeur,
+      Poor in the Centre of Wealth,_
+        _Humble at the Summit of Honours;
+      Rever'd by_ LEWIS LE GRAND,
+        _Environ'd with his Glory,
+      Vested with his most intimate Confidence,
+        The Depositary of his Favours,
+      Who never made use of her Power
+        But to do Good.
+      Another_ Esther _in Favour,
+      A second_ Judith _in Retirement and Prayer:
+        The Mother of the Poor,
+      The never-failing Asylum of the Unfortunate.
+          A Life so illustrious
+      Was cut off by a Death Pious,
+          And precious in the Sight of God.
+      Her Body lies in this Sacred House,
+        Of which she procur'd the Establishment:
+          And her Virtues she has left
+          To the World for a Pattern.
+        She departed this Life_ April 15, 1719.
+        _Being born the 28th of_ November 1635.
+
+My _Englishmen_ thought the Panegyric upon Madame _de Maintenon_ a little
+too much strain'd. I confess that I think she is well equipp'd with a
+Character; and if it be true, that she was as humble as her Epitaph
+imports, I make no doubt, but if she had liv'd to see such an Encomium, it
+would have put her Modesty sadly out of Countenance: For 'tis certain,
+that this Lady had a very great Fund of Virtue and Piety; and I have heard
+it said by Persons, who otherwise had no reason to be fond of her, that
+'twas impossible to be acquainted with her, and not to esteem her.
+
+When I return'd from _St. Cyr_, I came hither to see M. _Voltaire_'s
+Tragedy of _Brutus_, which is so fine a Piece, that I and my _English_
+Companions were charm'd with it: We not only admir'd the Conduct and
+Versification of it, but we applauded the Freedom with which the Author
+makes the _Romans_ think and speak. Mean time, the _French_ are not of our
+Opinion. _The Respect due to Royalty_, say they, _is not well preserv'd in
+it_. They censure the Author _for presuming to confine the Royal Authority
+within the Bounds of Justice_. _M._ de Voltaire, say they, _never could
+imbibe these Sentiments in_ France. _'Tis very plain that he contracted
+them beyond Sea. They may be relish'd well enough by the_ English; _but to
+us they are intolerable: And if M._ de Voltaire _goes on to write in this
+Manner, he may, perhaps, have an Apartment in the_ Bastile. I confess that
+terrible Name dumb-founder'd me, and I did not dare to say a Word in the
+Author's Vindication, for fear of being deem'd his Accomplice. The
+_Bastile_ and the _Holy Office_ are two Terms which always silenc'd me,
+even when I have had the strongest Inclination to speak my Mind.
+
+As for the Comedians, they perform'd Wonders. One _du Frene_ actually
+out-did himself. He is Brother to _Quinaut_, an excellent Comedian in the
+Parts which require Humour, but excessively out-of-the-Way in Tragedy; and
+take him off the Theatre, impertinent beyond Expression, as is also his
+Brother, tho' they are both Men of Wit.
+
+The Players are much more respected here than they are elsewhere, which
+makes them insolent to the last Degree. The Nobility are fond of their
+Company, and admit them to their Parties of Pleasure: And as they are
+Kings upon the Stage, and Equals and Companions at Table with the best
+Lords in the Kingdom, no wonder that it turns their Brains. But that which
+must needs render them arrogant beyond Measure, is a late Instance of
+Regard paid them by the _French_ Academy, who, by a Letter, invited the
+Performers in the _French_ Comedy, to hear an Oration made in their
+Academy; which the Comedians took for such an Honour, that the very next
+Day they offer'd the Members of the Academy Admission to their Comedy
+_Gratis_; which the Academicians made no Scruple to accept, to the great
+Amazement of the whole City of _Paris_, which blames the Members for it
+not a little: The Fault is laid at the Door of certain Authors, who are in
+League with the Comedians, and gave the Invitation without consulting the
+rest of the Members, of whom several that had, no Hand in the Transaction,
+protested against the Conduct of those who had, the Consequence of which
+was a Quarrel in the Academy. Indeed, one would imagine by that Day's
+Work, that they did not really consider what they were doing; and the
+Noblemen who are Members of the Academy, cry out against it very much.
+'Tis true, that the Comedians who presume to offer Admission _Gratis_ to a
+Marshal _de Villars_, a Marshal _d'Estrees_, or other Noblemen of that
+Rank, are not mean Fellows, and deserve the Appellation of the _Company
+of_ Comedians, instead of _Troop_; in order to distinguish them from the
+Strollers in the[74] Country. Why then should not they be honour'd? The
+Actors in the Opera, who, as well as they, divert the Public for Lucre,
+have, indeed, the Privilege, that a Gentleman may be admitted among them
+without Disparagement to his Title. This is a Favour, says a modern Author
+very justly, which had never yet been granted to those who perform in the
+public Spectacles, and who give Diversion for Money; because in most of
+the Ages of Christianity, they had been look'd upon as Persons
+excommunicated and infamous, by reason of the Corruption in Morals, owing
+to their then too licentious Representations, which, perhaps, is no longer
+apprehended to be the Case at present. 'Tis certain, that if a Performer
+in an Opera may be noble, I can't see why a Person mayn't be the same in a
+Comedy; tho' 'tis my Opinion, that if Stage-players may be Gentlemen,
+Rope-dancers and Tumblers have a Title to it; for, besides the Honour they
+have of diverting the Public, they run the Risk of breaking their Necks
+every Day; and is not that the Lot of the Nobility?
+
+As I returned Yesterday with my _Englishmen_ from _Versailles_, we went to
+_St. Cloud_, where we had the Honour to see the Duke _de Chartres_, the
+only Son of the Duke of _Orleans_. This Prince was in the Park, to see a
+young Officer of the Train of Artillery make Proofs of some Pieces of
+Ordnance. We were surpriz'd to see how attentively the young Prince
+observed every thing, and to hear him ask the Officer such Questions as
+were not to be expected from one of his Years. We had reason also to
+applaud the gracious and polite Reception which he gave us. To be plain, I
+was charm'd to see a Grandson of the late _Madame_, so worthy of herself,
+and of the illustrious Blood from which he is descended.
+
+_St. Cloud_ is a Palace belonging to the Duke of _Orleans_, first Prince
+of the Blood, and was built by Order of the late Monsieur _Philip_ of
+_France_, (Brother of _Lewis_ XIV.) who added very magnificent Gardens to
+it. 'Tis certain, that if the late King had chose _St. Cloud_ for his
+Residence, instead of _Versailles_, he might have had a finer Building
+with less Expence. What is most admir'd at _St. Cloud_, are the Gallery
+and Salon, both painted by _Mignard_, the Cascade, and the great
+Water-work, which throws up the Water a hundred Feet high, and which
+nothing exceeds of the Kind, but the Work that was made by the Direction
+of an[75]_English_ Gentleman at _Herenhausen_, near _Hanover_, in the
+Reign of King _George_ I.
+
+_St. Cloud_ has been fatal to several Princes of the Royal Family. _Henry_
+III. was assassinated there on the first of _August_ 1589, at eight
+o'Clock in the Morning, by _James Clement_. _Henrietta_ of _England_,
+first Wife to the late _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, only
+Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. died there suddenly of a Colic, on the 30th of
+_June_ 1670. She said that she was poison'd, for which Reason the King
+caus'd her Corpse to be open'd in Presence of the _English_ Ambassador.
+'Tis a difficult Matter, to judge whether that Princess's Suspicions were
+true; for the Physicians and Surgeons found all her noble Parts corrupted,
+tho' she was but twenty-six Years old. Her Husband paid his Tribute to
+Nature on a sudden, in the same Palace, on the 4th of _June_ 1701.
+
+What I have mentioned to you of the unhappy Catastrophe of the last of the
+_Valois_, puts me in Mind of a Passage in History, that _Te Deum_ was
+forgot in the Ceremony of his Coronation; that the Crown fell from his
+Head; and that there was no Oil in the Sacred Phial, to perform the
+customary[76] Unction; which were then taken for ill Omens, and Time
+prov'd them but too true.
+
+Since I am upon Tragical Events, I will mention a Thing to you that lately
+happen'd in _England_, and which I was assur'd by the _English_ Gentlemen,
+in our Return from _Versailles_, is a certain Fact.
+
+One _Richard Smith_, a Bookbinder, and his Wife _Bridget_, were about a
+Fortnight ago found hanging in their Chamber near their Bed-side, about
+three or four Feet Distance from one another; and in the next Room, their
+Daughter, who was but two Years old, was found shot thro' the Head. There
+were three Letters left upon the Table, of which the following is the most
+material; and I send you a Copy of it, because it will let you into the
+_Stoic_ Character of the _English_ Nation. 'Tis directed to Mr.
+_Brindley_, a Bookbinder at _London_, in that which is call'd _New
+Bondstreet_.
+
+_Cousin_ BRINDLEY,
+
+    'These Actions, consider'd in all their Circumstances, being
+    somewhat uncommon, it may not be improper to give some Account
+    of the Cause, and that it was an inveterate Hatred we conceiv'd
+    against Poverty and Rags; Evils, which through a Train of
+    unlucky Accidents were become inevitable; for we appeal to all
+    that ever knew us, whether we were either idle or extravagant;
+    whether or no we have not taken as much Pains to get our Living
+    as our Neighbours, altho' not attended with the same Success.
+    We apprehend the taking our Child's Life away to be a
+    Circumstance for which we shall be generally condemn'd; but for
+    our own Parts, we are perfectly easy upon that Head. We are
+    satisfy'd it is less Cruelty to take the Child with us, even
+    supposing a State of Annihilation, as some dream of, than to
+    leave her friendless in the World, expos'd to Ignorance and
+    Misery. Now in order to obviate some Censures, which may proceed
+    either from Ignorance or Malice, we think it proper to inform
+    the World, that we firmly believe the Existence of Almighty God;
+    that this Belief of ours is not an implicit Faith, but deduced
+    from the Nature and Reason of Things: We believe the Existence
+    of an Almighty Being from the Consideration of his wonderful
+    Works, from a Consideration of those innumerable celestial and
+    glorious Bodies, and from their wonderful Order and Harmony. We
+    have also spent some Time in viewing those Wonders which are to
+    be seen in the minute Part of the World, and that with great
+    Pleasure and Satisfaction, from all which Particulars, we are
+    satisfied, that such amazing Things could not possibly be
+    without a first Mover, without the Existence of an Almighty
+    Being: And as we know the wonderful God to be Almighty, so we
+    cannot help believing but that he is also good, not implacable;
+    not like such Wretches as Men are, not taking Delight in the
+    Miseries of his Creatures; for which Reason we resign up our
+    Breaths unto him, without any terrible Apprehensions, submitting
+    ourselves to those Ways, which in his Goodness he shall please
+    to appoint after Death. We also believe the Existence of
+    unbody'd Creatures, and think we have Reason for that Belief,
+    altho' we don't pretend to know their Way of subsisting. We are
+    not ignorant of those Laws made _in Terrorem_; but leave the
+    Disposal of our Bodies to the Wisdom of the Coroner and his
+    Jury; the Thing being indifferent to us where our Bodies are
+    laid: From whence it will appear how little anxious we are about
+    a _Hic jacet_; we for our Parts neither expect, nor desire such
+    Honours, but shall content ourselves with a borrowed Epitaph,
+    _viz._
+
+      'Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb,
+      Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb.
+      Where we were born or bred, it matters not,
+      Who were our Parents, or have us begot.
+      We were, but are not: think no more of us;
+      For as we are, so you'll be turn'd to Dust.
+
+    'It is the Opinion of _Naturalists_, that our Bodies are at
+    certain Stages of Life compos'd of new Matter, so that a great
+    many poor People have new Bodies oftner than new Cloaths: Now as
+    Divines are not able to inform us which of those several Bodies
+    shall rise at the Resurrection, it is very probable, that the
+    deceased Body may be for ever silent as well as any other.'
+
+                                                               Sign'd,
+                                                        RICHARD SMITH.
+                                                        BRIDGET SMITH.
+
+The Coroner's Inquest, after the usual Formalities, brought in their
+Verdict, whereby they declared _Richard Smith_ guilty of that Crime, which
+they call in _England_, _Felo de se_, or Self-Murder; and of Wilful Murder
+as to his Child. _Bridget_ was brought in a Lunatic, tho' she had sign'd
+the Letter with her Husband, and acknowledged that she was equally
+concerned in the Murder of her Child; so that I think her Corpse deserved
+hanging, at least for a little while: And sure I am, that she would not
+have been found a Lunatic here.
+
+There being commonly some little Piece of Entertainment at the End of
+Tragedies, I am now to divert you with some such Farce. 'Tis the Adventure
+of a certain pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, with the Abbe _de Vayrac_, an
+Author, and a Man of[77]Wit. Not many Days ago, as the Abbe was walking on
+Foot, he was overtaken with a Shower of Rain, which made him take Shelter
+under a Penthouse, at a Shop-door. At the same Time, who should pass by in
+a magnificent Coach, driving at a mad Rate, as if he would run over every
+Thing in his Way, but a Counsellor, whose furious Career was stopp'd all
+on a sudden, by something that broke his Harness! This Disaster happen'd
+just at the Place Where the Abbe _de Vayrac_ stood, dress'd like other
+Authors, with an old tatter'd Hat upon his Head, and a shabby Cloak over a
+Coat quite thread-bare. The Thing that most diverted the Counsellor, was
+his Hat, and he order'd one of his Lacqueys to ask him, if it was not as
+old as the Battle of[78]_Rocroy_. You must know, the Lacqueys of this
+Country are more brazen-fac'd and insolent than they are any-where else;
+and the Counsellor's discharg'd his Errand to a Tittle. M. _l'Abbe_, said
+he, in a Droll Tone, _my Master wants to know in what Battle your Hat
+receiv'd all those Wounds_. _At the Battle of_ Cannae, _Friend_, reply'd
+the Abbe; and then he laid on five or six heavy Blows upon the impudent
+Ambassador's Shoulders with his _Cane_. The Counsellor, seeing his
+Domestic so soundly drubb'd, stepp'd instantly out of his Coach, and
+running to the Abbe, said, _What are you doing?_ The Abbe reply'd very
+sedately, _I am chastising Insolence._ _Parbleu_, M. _l'Abbe_, said the
+Counsellor, _I think you are a pleasant Fellow to presume to strike a
+Servant of mine! Surely you don't know me; for if you did, you would have
+more Respect for my Livery._ _Pardon me_, reply'd the Abbe, _I know you
+very well._ _And who am I?_ said the Counsellor. _Why you are a Fool_,
+reply'd the _Abbe_; upon which the Gentleman thought fit to sneak off.
+This is a very true Story; for I had it from the Abbe _de Vayrac_ himself,
+who told it to me with the same Gravity as he had answer'd the Counsellor.
+
+Tho' Lacqueys are not commonly the Subjects of Conversation, yet I think
+that those of _Paris_ deserve some Notice. They form so considerable a
+Body, that there are many Kings who have not so numerous an Army. Besides,
+these Fellows make such extraordinary Fortunes, and often rise so quick
+from _Valets_, to be Masters and Gentlemen, that really they ought not to
+be confounded in the Lump with the _European_ Lacqueys. Those of 'em who
+set up for fine Fellows, as many of 'em do, (for in the Livery of _Paris_,
+you meet with every Thing that is handsome and gay) such, I say, as are in
+the Service of some young Noblemen, are commonly Equals and Companions
+with their Masters. There are others who are the Darlings of the Fair Sex;
+and if Satire may be credited, and Appearances, perhaps, into the
+Bargain, there are Ladies even of the first Quality, who don't always
+treat their Lacqueys like Servants. 'Tis true, they most commonly take
+them out of the Livery, and in order to bring them near their Persons,
+they make them their Pages, or _Valets de Chambre_. Nothing is thought too
+good for these Favourites of _Venus_; they are rigg'd out like Princes,
+and were you to see one of these fortunate Lacqueys, you would naturally
+take him for some Person of Consequence. And indeed, there are some who
+act the Man of Quality to such a Perfection, that nothing can exceed it;
+and they have often better Manners than their Masters. The Airs of
+Importance, and of Quality, are very natural to the _French_. There are
+others of the menial Class, that enjoy the Favour of their young Masters,
+in a Way so uncommon, that one knows not what to think of it; and many of
+those young Gentlemen, forgetting the Respect that is due to their own
+Persons, and their Families, make Parties at Supper with 'em, at which
+Time, I fansy, Conversation is the least Part of the Entertainment. But
+such is the Spirit of Debauchery, that it has infected the Generality of
+the young People at Court; tho' 'tis true enough, that it ever was so.
+
+I don't say that excessive Debauchery is the universal Gout of the Nation;
+for, on the contrary, the _French_ are virtuous from the Cradle to the
+Grave, if they are but so happy as to get over the four or five Years of
+juvenile Fury, and to surmount the tumultuous Passions which their great
+Vivacity kindles in their Breasts, and prompts them to do Things at twenty
+Years of Age, which at thirty they detest and abhor; and I affirm of the
+_French_ in general, that they are not vicious by Inclination. The
+Nobleman is infinitely more so, than the Bulk of the People; and whether
+it is bad Company, bad Counsel, or whatever else that misleads him, he
+thinks that to be debauch'd gives him a fine Air; and many of 'em really
+boast of being greater Deboshees, than in Fact they are.
+
+But this does not seem to me to be the Case of the Women (I mean of those
+who are not very rigidly attach'd to the Precepts of Virtue). They always
+preserve an Appearance of Decency, which imposes on such as don't know
+them: Nor is their Conversation licentious; and if they are naughty, 'tis
+in private. 'Tis certain that our Countrymen don't do the _French_ Ladies
+Justice. Many of our young Fellows, when they come home from _Paris_,
+affecting to be Coxcombs, tell Stories so much to the Disadvantage of the
+Fair Sex, that most of the _German_ Gentlemen, and especially of our
+Ladies, think the Reverse of what they ought to do. Virtue and Modesty are
+as eminent among the Sex here as elsewhere; and those Whifflers, that give
+themselves the Liberty of scandalizing them, very often know not how to
+call one Woman of Quality by her right Name, and even never saw her
+Antichamber. 'Tis certain, that there are Women of Quality here, who have
+laid aside the Mask; but of these there are so few, that the whole Sex
+ought not to be reproach'd for their Misconduct. I give you my Word and
+Honour, that there are fine young Ladies here, born to charm our Sex, whom
+Calumny itself is obliged to respect; and I don't see what more can be
+desired. I'll vouch the same for the young Gentlemen, of whom indeed, the
+greatest Number is very much debauch'd, but there are some that have not
+quitted the Reins of Modesty. A _Tremouille_, a _Luxembourg_, a
+_Boufflers_, and many more, may be set up as Examples to our Youth, who,
+perhaps, would be worse than the Youth of _France_, if they were enter'd
+as young into Company, and seated in the Centre of Joy and Pleasures. But
+I perceive, that instead of a Letter I am drawing a Case. Therefore here I
+drop my Brief, and think my Epistle long enough to be concluded. I am
+intirely Yours, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Paris, May 28, 1732._
+
+I was puzzled some time ago, to think what could make the _French_ forget
+Father _Girard_ and _la Cadiere_, and the pretended St. _Paris_; for I
+apprehended, those two Articles would be the Subject of Conversation a
+great while longer; but I was mistaken: 'Tis all forgot; and there's
+something now upon the Tapis, of quite another Kind.
+
+The Archbishop of _Paris_ having thought fit to issue his Mandate for
+suppressing a certain printed Paper, intitled _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_,
+(a Sort of Ecclesiastical News-Journal) the Parliament of _Paris_ was
+disgusted, and made an Arret, condemning the Archbishop's Mandate. The
+Court took the Prelate's Part, and declar'd all that was done by the
+Parliament upon this Occasion, null and void. The Parliament standing up
+mightily for its Privileges, which nevertheless it holds only by the good
+Pleasure of its Kings, discontinued its Assemblies, and the King was
+obliged to issue repeated Orders, before the Members would resume their
+Business. Mean time the _Advocates_ and _Solicitors_ have thought fit to
+espouse the Cause of the Parliament, and refuse to plead till the King has
+_done Justice_ to the Parliament, ('tis their own Term) by preserving it
+in the Possession of Appeals against Incroachments; which it has really
+enjoy'd for many Years, and which is the Ground of the present Disputes.
+The Parliament say, that they are the more justifiable in supporting this
+antient Prerogative, because they are obliged to it in Conscience, and for
+the Welfare of the State committed to their Charge. For, say they, what
+would be the Consequence, were the Archbishop's Mandate to be authorized?
+The Pope and the Bishops would, by Degrees, assume that Right which they
+pretend to, of pronouncing Excommunications for very trivial Causes, and
+even of putting the King himself under an Interdict, and consequently of
+usurping a Temporal Despotic Power under the Umbrage of their Spiritual
+Power, which, say the Parliament, is absolutely contrary to the Liberties
+of the _Gallican_ Church; by Virtue whereof, 'tis sufficient for the
+Parliament alone, in the like Case, to stigmatize and condemn those
+_Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, as they have already done for a long Time.
+
+This is, in general, the Situation of Affairs, and the Substance of the
+Arguments made use of by the Parliament for the Maintenance of their
+Rights, which are stuff'd with Abundance of pompous Terms, such as the
+_Obligations of Conscience_, the _Liberties of the_ Gallican _Church_, and
+a thousand such Expressions, with which the very Hawkers make your Ears
+ring as you go along the Streets. The Ladies too have for the present laid
+aside all the Jargon of Dresses, to learn that Language; and she who us'd
+to talk of Cornets and Gorgets, now assumes the Style of an Advocate,
+pleads for _Gallican_ Liberties, overturns the Church, and sends the
+_Sacred College_ and the _Bishops_ to the Gallies. In short, I can't
+express to you, how ridiculous the _French_ are in these Cases. Being fond
+of every Thing that's new, be it good or bad, they catch at it blindfold;
+which is a plain Confirmation of the Inconstancy of these People, who are
+so fickle, that I verily believe, if any one should take a Fancy to preach
+_Mahometanism_ to them, they would embrace it with their usual Levity.
+
+The following, my dear Friend, is a Piece of Poetry, which, I think, is
+good, and make no Doubt will please you. The Subject of it is, Christian
+Tranquillity. If I can pick up any Thing new for you, before I go hence, I
+will not fail to send it to you. I supp'd lately in a Place with M. _de
+Voltaire_, and another Poet, the latter of whom rehearsed a very pretty
+Piece to us, of which he refused to give us a Copy, pretending 'twas
+imperfect; but however, he has promised it to me. When I have it, I will
+send it to you.
+
+            TRANQUILLITE                         CHRISTIAN
+            CHRETIENNE.                        TRANQUILLITY.
+
+    Surles les Disputes du Tems.        On the Disputes of the Times.
+
+  Plein d'ignorance et de Miseres,    Why wilt, audacious mortal Man,
+  Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux,         So wretched, and so ignorant,
+  Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres   On Mysteries dark and profound
+  Porter un oeil trop curieux!        resume to cast an Eye too nice?
+  Toi, pour qui toute la Nature       Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems
+  Ne paroit qu'une Enigme obscure,    But an impenetrable Riddle,
+  Tu sondes les Divins Decrets?       Pretend to fathom God's Decrees?
+  Tu croi que ton foible genie        Think'st thou thy feeble Genius can
+  De l'Intelligence infinie           The mighty Secrets e'er unfold
+  Pourra devoiler les Secrets?        Of infinite Intelligence?
+
+  Crains les tenebres respectables,  Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades,
+  Ou Dieu cache sa Majeste;          Where God his Majesty conceals;
+  De ses Desseins impenetrables      For who the Veil can penetrate
+  Qui peut percer l'obscurite?       Of his impenetrable Schemes?
+  Mesure la vaste etendue            Measure the vast immense Extent
+  De ces Globes, qu'offre a la vue   Of all those Globes that may be seen
+  Un tems serein et lumineux.        In Weather most serene and bright.
+  Mais arrete ici ton audace,        But here thy fond Presumption check;
+  Tu ne peux voir que la surface     For thou nought but the Surface seest
+  De ce Theatre merveilleux.         Of this Theatre wonderful.
+
+  Ou t'emporte l'ardeur extreme       Where will thy furious Ardor stop,
+  De tout comprendre, et de tout      All Things to comprehend and see?
+       voir?
+  Tu ne te connois pas toi-meme:      And know'st not what thou art
+  L'Esprit echape a son savoir;             thyself,
+  Et la Raison imperieuse             Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds:
+  De la Grace victorieuse             Will then imperious Reason dare
+  Veut penetrer la Profondeur!        Presume to penetrate the Depths
+  +Paul+, tout rempli de              Of all-victorious Grace Divine?
+      sa Lumiere,                     Great Paul, in whom its
+  Nous apprend quelle est la maniere  Light shone full,
+  Dont elle agit sur notre coeur.     Explains to us the Manner how
+                                      Grace operates upon our Hearts.
+
+  Je sens en moi que la Nature        I feel within, that Nature's self
+  Veut etablir ma Liberte;            To fix my Freedom makes Efforts;
+  Elle se plaint, elle murmure,       And when her Power is controll'd
+  Quand son pouvoir est dispute.      She murmurs inward, and complains.
+  Mais si j'interroge mon Ame         But if my Soul I do but ask
+  Comment une celeste flame           Which way a Flame celestial
+  La fait agir, la fait mouvoir;      Induces it to act and move;
+  Je crains que cette Ame hautaine    I fear this haughty swelling Soul
+  Ne donne a la puissance humaine,    To human Power will ascribe
+  Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir.      That which to Pow'r Divine is due.
+
+  Surpris de l'Intervalle immense     Astonish'd at the Space immense
+  Qu'on voit de l'Homme au Createur,  Betwixt the Creature and Creator,
+  Si je n'admets une Puissance        If I do not a Pow'r confess
+  Qui concourt avec son Auteur,       Concurring with its Author,
+  Ce n'est plus pour moi qu'un        Free Agency, or that Free-will
+      vain titre,
+  Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre, Of which my Reason so much vaunts,
+  Que ma Raison sais tant vanter:     Is but for me an empty Plea:
+  Je ne connois plus de Justice,      That Justice I no longer own,
+  Qui recompense et qui punisse,      Which doth reward and punish too,
+  Ce qui ne peut rien meriter.        What strictly neither can deserve.
+
+  Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue         Thus is my Soul held in Suspense
+  Entre les Sentimens divers.         Betwixt Opinions contrary.
+  Par-tout ou je porte ma vue,        Where-e'er my roving Eyes I turn
+  Je vous des Abimes ouverts.         Abysses open to my View.
+  Pour me garantir du naufrage,       For fear of being cast away,
+  Je n'ose quitter le rivage;         I dare not quit the Sight of Shore;
+  La crainte assure mon repos.        And 'tis this Fear my Peace secures.
+  Combien, dans cette Mer profonde,   How many, in this Ocean deep,
+  Flottant a la merci de l'onde,      Floating at Mercy of the Waves,
+  Se perdent au milieu des flots?     Are by those Waves immerg'd
+                                            and lost!
+
+  De tant de disputes fameuses,       Let us the dang'rous Tracks avoid
+  Ou nous embarque notre orgueil,     Of those Disputes but too
+                                            well known,
+  Fuyons les Routes dangereuse:       In which our Pride engageth us:
+  L'Homme a Lui-meme est un ecueil;   Man's to himself a fatal Rock;
+  Dans le petis Monde sensible,       For in this little World of ours
+  Est un Dedale imperceptible,        There is a Dadalus unseen,
+  Dont nous ignorons les Detours.     Whose Windings are to us unknown.
+  La Foi de notre sort decide:        'Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide,
+  Elle tient le fil qui nous guide;   She holds the Thread which
+  Sans elle, nous errons toujours.          is our Guide;
+                                      Or else we always go astray.
+
+  Heureux le coeur simple             Happy that honest docile Heart,
+       et docile,
+  Qui sans raisonner sur la Foi,      Which without reas'ning about Faith
+  Respecte dans nos Saints Conciles   Our Holy Councils venerates,
+  Le sacre depot de la Foi;           The Sacred Guardians of that Faith;
+  Ne franchissant point la Barriere,  And dares not climb o'er that
+                                            Barrier.
+  Que le Pere de la lumiere           Fix'd by the Father of all Light
+  Met aux vains efforts de l'esprit.  Against proud Reason's vain Efforts.
+  A quoi nos soins doivent-ils
+      tendre?                         To what shou'd our Endeavours tend?
+  Est-ce a pratiquer, ou comprendre   Is it to practice, or comprise
+  Ce que le Ciel nous a prescrit?     The Things which Heaven
+                                            has prescrib'd?
+
+  Laissons la Sagesse eternalle       Let's to Eternal Wisdom leave
+  Disposer des coeurs a son gre:      The sole Disposal of all Hearts:
+  Il suffit a l'Homme fidelle,        The true Believer is content,
+  Que par lui Dieu soit adore.        That God by him shou'd be ador'd.
+  Qu'importe a ces Docteurs habiles,  What do these cunning Doctors gain,
+  Que par des Raisons trop subtiles   Who by too subtle Arguments
+  Un Systeme soit combattu?           A System strive to overthrow?
+  Que produit leur haute science,     What does their Knowledge
+                                            great avail,
+  Si Dieu ne met dans la Balance      If God but in the Balance cast
+  Que l'Innocence & la Vertu?         Virtue and Innocence to turn
+                                            the Scale?
+
+It were to be wish'd, that every _Frenchman_ had the same Christian
+Tranquillity; for then they would not worry one another as they now do,
+nor would they give such a Scandal to _Europe_. But the Matter is push'd
+so far, that I don't foresee how a Stop can be put to it. It will be
+always a Worm preying upon the Vitals of _France_, and a Bone of
+Contention between the Court and Parliament.
+
+Some Days ago, the Court banish'd the Abbe _Pucelle_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament. This Man is another _Broussel_, and I believe, he would be
+overjoy'd, if he could revive the ancient Barricades which were erected
+during the Minority of _Lewis_ XIV. after the Queen Mother _Anne_ of
+_Austria_ had caus'd that same _Broussel_ to be put under an Arrest. But
+as yet there does not appear to be so much Rout about the Abbe _Pucelle_,
+notwithstanding he made a very great Noise in Parliament. There he spoke
+like an Angel, and every body said he defended the Liberties of the
+_Gallican_ Church so well, that nobody could do it better. Nevertheless, I
+am apprehensive, that he will be at a Loss how to vindicate his own
+Liberty; and I am very much mistaken, if he has not a Lodging at
+_Vincennes_, or the _Bastile_, before he dies. The Parliament leaves no
+Stone unturn'd, that he may be recalled; and will do no Business at all,
+till that dear Brother of theirs is restored. Mean time, all Affairs are
+at a Stand, by which private Persons are the Sufferers: And yet these very
+Counsellors, who make a Scruple of Conscience to register an Edict from
+the King, which infring'd the ancient Privileges of the Parliament, don't
+care what becomes of poor Widows and Orphans, that languish for the Issue
+of a Process kept in Suspense by these Domestic Quarrels! In Truth, I
+cannot but admire the good Nature of the King, and the Moderation of the
+Cardinal _de Fleury_. I am sure, that the Regent, and the Cardinal
+_Dubois_, would not have had so much Patience: For the former sent the
+Parliament to _Pontoise_, and caus'd the Members to be arrested and
+banish'd for a less Offence; and at the Time too, when the Parliament
+remonstrated against the Alteration of the Species, in which the Fortune
+of every _Frenchman_ was concerned. Hitherto all the Representations of
+the Parliament for the Return of the Abbe _Pucelle_, have been of no
+Effect; and I fansy, that the first President will be forced to make
+another Trip to _Compiegne_, where the King has for some Time past
+resided[79].
+
+A Couplet has lately been made upon the Abbe's Exile: I don't remember the
+Beginning of it, but it ends thus;
+
+_Que de bonnes gens vont pleurer!_ _Que de filles vont crier_,
+_Rendez-nous_ Pucelle, _o gai_, _Rendez-nous_ Pucelle!
+
+_i. e._
+
+How do the good Women lament! How do the Daughters cry, Give us back
+_Pucelle_, Give us back _Pucelle_[80]!
+
+You must allow the _French_ are merry Mortals. Let what will happen,
+they'll find something or other in it to divert them. Every thing is to
+them a Subject for a Song; and I remember to have heard of a Ballad they
+made and sung upon the Plague in _Provence_, in 1720. Mean time, these
+Jarrings between the Court and Parliament have absolutely effac'd the
+Memory of the blessed _Paris_. 'Tis true, he began to be out of Vogue,
+after the Court caus'd the Church-yard of _St. Medard_ to be stopp'd up,
+where he lies interr'd. If this had been done at first, a great deal of
+Scandal would have been prevented. I am very sorry I can't stay to see
+what will be the End of all these Things; but my Affairs call me to
+_Germany_, whither I propose to set out the first Opportunity; therefore
+write to me no more at present.
+
+Two Days ago, I saw such a Slur put upon the Charms of a young Lady, that
+she was thoroughly mortified. 'Twas the Marchioness _de R----_, one of the
+Ladies of the Bed-chamber. She has been us'd, for a long time, to daub her
+Face very awkwardly, with a great deal of White, Red, and Patches; but on
+that Day she out-did herself. She came into the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, on Purpose to be admir'd; for she has the Reputation of a
+very great Coquette: But she was hooted at by a great many smart Fellows
+that follow'd her, and gather'd all the Mob about her, so that the poor
+Lady was glad to retire; and being oblig'd to wait a little for her Coach,
+was very much hiss'd into the Bargain by those prodigal Puppies the
+Lacqueys; so that in my Life I never saw a Woman more run down.
+
+The same Night I supped with the Marquis _de L----_, whom I had never seen
+before. I was told by a certain Lady, That he ow'd his Fortune to an old
+Woman: For tho' he was a Man of a good Family, yet, being a younger
+Brother, he was not rich. When he was twenty Years of Age, he pleased the
+Marchioness _de L----_, who was threescore and ten, to such a Degree, that
+she offer'd to marry him; and the Marquis, who was then but a plain
+Gentleman, did not want very much Intreaty to accept the Proposal; for
+tho' he was a Man of a handsome Presence, he did not presume to think that
+any young Woman would fall in Love with him, who had one hundred and fifty
+thousand good Livres a Year to her Fortune, which was what the Marchioness
+really had to bestow upon whom she pleased. As the two Lovers return'd
+from the Church of _St. Sulpice_, where they were married, the Marchioness
+carried her Spouse to her own House; and leading him into an Apartment,
+_You need not be afraid, Sir_, said she; _don't imagine that I married
+you to toy with. This is your Apartment; mine is on the other Side of the
+House. You shall lie here, and I'll lie in my own Chamber. I was willing
+to make a Man of you, because I took you for a deferring young Fellow: But
+this I could not do, without taking you to be my Husband; and I had rather
+it should be said, that I am an old Fool for marrying a young Fellow, than
+to give any Colour for reporting, that I keep you in Pay. 'Tis more
+honourable both for you and me, that we are married; for now I can do what
+I please for you without the Censure of the Public. This, too, is what I
+have resolv'd on; and as I have no Relations, you may depend upon it, that
+all I have in the World will be one Day or other your own. All the
+Acknowledgment I desire of you, is some little Share in your Respect, and
+I am persuaded you are too much of a Gentleman to use me ill._ Judge you
+how much the Marquis was surprised, at a Speech which he so little
+expected. He was ready to fall at the Feet of his Bride, and to give her
+Proofs of his Ecstasy of Love, when she push'd him from her, and said,
+_None of these extraordinary Fits, I beseech you, Sir; let us live
+together like Friends: All the rest is superfluous._ In short, she gave
+him to understand, 'twas her absolute Determination, that he should never
+think of her as his Wife. The Marquis was obliged to comply; and after
+having liv'd thus in perfect Harmony for seven Years, the Lady died, and
+left her Husband Heir to all her Estate.
+
+The young Fellows undoubtedly stand the best Chance for the great
+Fortunes. I had Engagements here, when I was but twenty-two Years of Age,
+with an old Lady too, but she was not altogether to disinterested as the
+Marchioness _de L----_; for tho' she was kind to me, she obliged me to a
+great deal of Duty. This Lady of mine was forty Years older than myself;
+yet what with Patches, and the Red and the White, her Charms were renewed
+every Day to such a Degree, that 'twas well I was twenty-two Years of Age,
+or else they would have frightened me. But fourscore thousand Livres a
+Year, which I always kept in View, made me take that for natural, which
+was only artificial; insomuch that if I had been put to my Oath, I know
+not whether I should not have sworn that my superannuated Mistress was but
+in her Teens. We lived a couple of Years together very lovingly. The Lady
+happened to have two Sons living, old enough both of 'em, to be my
+Fathers; yet she did not despair of having another Brood. For this End she
+proposed Matrimony to me, and I freely consented. But my Sons-in-law _in
+futuro_, being advertised, by whom I know not, where I had appointed a
+Meeting with their Mother, came and fell at her Feet, and conjured her not
+to wrong them and their Children, (for they were both married) by marrying
+me. The Lady was stagger'd in her Resolution, and was just going to
+promise her Sons, that she would not have me; when I came to her in the
+Nick of Time, and so encouraged her by my Presence, that she got the
+better of her Weakness.
+
+Mean time, the Sons sprung a new Mine, which answered their End. Their
+Mother was a Coquet, but one of the pious Sort, and devoted that Time to
+God, which she did not spend with me, or at her Toilet. The Sons detached
+a Priest of _St. Sulpice_ to her. The holy Man chose his Opportunity when
+I was abroad. I did not foresee, that a Blow would come from such a
+Quarter; or else the _Swiss_, and all her Domestics, being my Creatures, I
+could easily have kept him out of the House. He discharged his Commission
+so effectually, that he prevailed to have the Signing of the Marriage
+Articles, which were to have been executed the very next Day, put off for
+three Months longer. I was not very much chagrin'd when I heard this News;
+for I confess, I flatter'd myself, that 'twas not possible for the Lady to
+escape me. By the Description I have given you of my Sweetheart, you will
+imagine that I was not over Head and Ears in Love. Whatever Scruple the
+Priest of _St. Sulpice_ had raised in her, she carried it to me the same
+as ever: We still liv'd very lovingly together, and I had considerable
+Presents made to me, which I squandered away as fast as I received. At the
+same Time, I did not dare to mention any Writings for my Security; and to
+talk to a Mistress of threescore Years and ten, about making her Last Will
+and Testament, was, I thought, a strange kind of Courtship, and the Way to
+spoil all.
+
+Nevertheless, this Misfortune fell upon me, when I least of all expected
+it. As I went one Morning into my Dear's Chamber, I found her at her
+Toilet, complaining of a great Pain in her Head. She told me, That she was
+in a sad Quandary too, because she had invited People to Dinner, but was
+not in a Condition to keep them Company; and she desired me, therefore, to
+do them the Honours of her House: But I prevailed with her to send Word to
+those whom she had invited, that she was ill, and that she should be glad
+to see them another Time. I then left her, with a Promise to come back and
+dine with her; and having taken a Walk, I returned accordingly; when I
+found her dress'd more gay than usual. She told me, that a Dish or two of
+Coffee had quite remov'd her Head-ach, and that she had trick'd herself up
+to please me. We din'd together, but she eat very little, and began very
+soon to complain again; so that I made her lie down upon the Bed, and
+taking a Book in my Hand, I sat down by her to read, while she rested: But
+all on a sudden, I felt her lay hold of my Hand, and as I turned about to
+her, my Mistress gave my Hand a Squeeze, and that Instant expir'd. I
+called for Help, and both Surgeons and Physicians came, by whose Order she
+was blooded; but 'twas to no Purpose: For _there's no returning from the
+Shore of the Dead_.
+
+This Accident so surprized me, that I did not so much as think of securing
+my own Effects; but went into my Room, and presently I was given to
+understand, that one of the Sons of the Deceased was come with an Officer
+to seal up all her Effects. I did not in the least oppose it, nor, indeed,
+had I any manner of Title to dispute it. But my Good-nature only made the
+Son the more insolent; for he even came into my own Apartment, to seal up
+such Effects as belong'd to me. I told him, that if he did not withdraw, I
+would make my Servants, and those of the Deceased, who had all a Respect
+for me, turn him out. During this, the late M. _de N----_, a Counsellor of
+Parliament, who was very much my Friend, came to see me, who advised me to
+quit my Quarters with all Speed, and to pack up every Thing that belong'd
+to me immediately. He also offer'd me Room in his House for my Furniture,
+and other Effects; which Offer I accepted, and in a few Hours every Thing
+of mine was clear'd off of the Premises. The Sons, after this, threaten'd
+to enter an Action against me; but as they had no Proof of any Thing that
+I ow'd to their Mother, they did not presume to molest me. If I had been
+of the Temper then, that I am now, I should not have so soon forgot the
+Loss I suffer'd; for, besides a good She-Friend, which is a rare and
+precious Thing, I lost the Hopes of a splendid Fortune.
+
+I know not how it came into my Head, to entertain you with my _quondam_
+Amours. But 'tis a Vein of Prating which I am indulg'd in, more by you
+than by any body. Farewel, my Dear, you will hear no more of me about this
+Country, for I am preparing to quit it the very first Opportunity.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Brussels, June 4, 1732._
+
+When I left _Paris_, I kept on the Pavement all the Way to Chantilly,
+which may pass for the finest Seat in the Kingdom, since the great
+Additions made to it by the Duke of _Bourbon_, who is the Lord of it. The
+Forest likewise, of _Chantilly_, is as fine as any thing that ever Art and
+Nature form'd. 'Tis a magnificent Palace, the Stables are stately, and the
+Park is adorned with the finest Pieces of Water in the World. _Lewis_ XIV,
+who was always very desirous of being the Master of this House, wanted to
+purchase it of the late Prince. The latter made Answer to him, That it was
+at his Service, only he begged him, he would make him the Keeper of it
+from that Moment. The King perceived, that the Prince resigned it to him
+with some Reluctance, and therefore spoke no more of it.
+
+The Duke _de Bourbon_, who is certainly the richest Prince in _Europe_,
+that is not a Sovereign, lives very much at CHANTILLY, since he is no
+longer in the Ministry. There is always a very numerous Court, and he
+lives there more like a King, than a Prince of the Blood.
+
+After having walked sufficiently about _Chantilly_, I went and lay at
+_Senlis_, and next Day arrived in good Time at CAMBRAY, a City famous upon
+several Accounts; but its Beauty does not answer its Reputation.
+_Cambray_, the Capital of the _Cambresis_, was formerly an Imperial City,
+and its Archbishop was a Sovereign and Prince of the Empire. _France_
+having seized _Cambray_, there remains nothing more to the Archbishop, of
+so many fine Prerogatives, but the empty Title of a Prince of the Empire;
+which he still retains, tho' he has no Vote nor Session at the Diet. Since
+1712, that I came for the first Time into _France_, the Church of
+_Cambray_ has had four Archbishops. I then found the See possessed by the
+Illustrious _Francis de Salignac de la Mothe Fenelon_, Preceptor of the
+late Duke of _Burgundy_, Father of _Lewis_ XV. He had for his Successor
+_John d'Estrees_; but the latter died before he had taken Possession of
+the Archbishoprick. The celebrated Cardinal _Dubois_ succeeded to him; but
+he did not enjoy that Dignity long, for he died at _Versailles_ the 10th
+of _August_ 1723. The Abbe _de S. Albin_, the natural Son of the Duke of
+_Orleans_, the Regent, was appointed Archbishop of _Cambray_ at an Age
+when he had need of Dispensations from _Rome_, to qualify himself for that
+Dignity.
+
+I think 'twill not be impertinent to make some little mention of the
+Cardinal _Dubois_, and, perhaps, you will not be sorry to hear a few
+Particulars of him. In the first Place, these were his Titles; William
+_Cardinal_ Dubois, _Priest Archbishop and Duke of_ Cambray, _Prince of
+the Holy Empire, Count of the_ Cambresis, _Abbat of_ St. Just de Nogent
+_under_ Couffy, _of_ Bourgueil, Airvaux, Cercamps, St. Winoxberg, _and_
+St. Bertin _of_ St. Omer; _Principal and Prime Minister, and Secretary of
+State for Foreign Affairs_; _Great Master and Superintendant General of
+the Couriers, Posts and Relays of_ France; _one of the forty Members of
+the_ French _Academy and that of the Belles Lettres_: _And chose by the
+Prelates and other Deputies at the General Assembly of the Clergy of_
+France, _to be their first President_.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ was not of extraordinary Extraction, but was born
+with great Talents, and an uncommon Genius. He was Preceptor to the Duke
+of _Orleans_, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; which was the Reason that
+the Prince and he were so well acquainted with each other's Thoughts, that
+the least Sign given by the One, was understood by the other. The Abbat
+_Dubois_ was employed in the Negociations of Peace in _England_, and at
+_Utrecht_. When the Duke of _Orleans_ came to be Regent, he sent him to
+take care of the King's Interests at the Court of King _George_ I. of
+_Great Britain_; with whom he concluded the famous Treaty of the Quadruple
+Alliance. When the King came of Age, the Regent being desirous to have a
+first Minister that he could confide in, chose the Abbat _Dubois_, whom he
+first made an Archbishop, and then obtain'd a Cardinal's Hat for him. 'Tis
+said, that the Cardinal was beginning to forget his Obligations to his
+Benefactor, and thinking to shake off all Submission to him, when he died
+at _Versailles_, after having enjoyed his splendid Fortune but a few
+Years. His Illness was of no long Continuance, but very painful. _La
+Peyrome_, the King's chief Surgeon, made an Operation upon him for a
+Disorder which the Cardinal's Enemies ascribe to his Incontinence, before
+he was Archbishop. He dreaded the Operation very much, and was loth to
+undergo it, tho' the Surgeons assured him, that nothing else could save
+his Life. The Duke of _Orleans_, to whom the Minister's Life was dear,
+made use of his Authority, and obliged the Cardinal to submit to the
+Operation, which did not answer his Royal Highness's Hopes; for in a few
+Days after it, his Favourite died. The Eagerness with which the Duke of
+_Orleans_ seized the Ministry, confirmed the Public in their Opinion, that
+the Cardinal had entertained a Thought of asserting his own Independency.
+
+The Cardinal was not much lamented; for he was blunt, violent and
+outrageous; which was not the Way to acquire the Good-will of a Nation,
+which loves that Decency and Politeness should be kept up in every Thing.
+Satire, or, if you please, Calumny, gave it out, that the Cardinal was
+married at _Tours_, when he was made Archbishop, and that his Wife liv'd
+in that City; that he gave it in Charge to M. _de Breteuil_, the Intendant
+of _Tours_, to prevail upon her, if possible, not to discover that she was
+his Wife; but that she refused to relinquish the Advantage; that thereupon
+M. _de Breteuil_ sent for the Parish Register where the Marriage was
+solemnized, and tore out the Leaf in which their Names were entered; and
+that the Woman was going to make a great Noise, but was threatened with
+Confinement, and by that Means obliged to be silent.
+
+I will not engage for the Truth of all, or any Part of this Story; but
+'tis what the scandalous Chronicle has given out, and what has reach'd
+even to _Rome_; so that when it was told to the late Pope, with a great
+many other Passages concerning the Cardinal, he was heartily vexed, that
+he had advanced him to the Purple; and I have been assured, that it was
+such a Grief to the Holy Father, that it help'd to shorten his Days.
+
+The Duchess _de F----_ was with the Cardinal one Day, when being in one of
+his sullen Moods, his Eminency, in plain Terms, bade her _go and pick
+Violets_. The Lady complaining of him to the Duke of _Orleans_, the
+Regent, the Prince made Answer, _You are much in the right_, Madame; _the
+Cardinal_ Dubois _is a Brute, but, nevertheless, he has a good
+Head-piece_.
+
+This Cardinal made a Compliment of much the same Nature to the Cardinal
+_de Noailles_, who telling him one Day as he came from an Audience of the
+Duke of _Orleans_, That the said Prince would not give Ear to his
+Representations, but bade him _go and ---- himself_, you understand the
+rest; the Cardinal _Dubois_ made Answer, _And really, Brother, the best
+Thing your Eminency can do, is to obey_.
+
+These Stories put me in mind of another that was current all over _Paris_,
+a little after the Cardinal _Dubois_ was advanced to the Purple. The
+Lacqueys of these two Cardinals happening to be at a certain Place
+together, they had a Dispute about their Master's Pre-eminency. _Our
+Master_, said the one, _is the oldest Cardinal, Duke and Peer, and a
+Commander of the Kings Orders_. The others said, _Ours is a Prince of the
+Empire, Duke of_ Cambray, _and Prime Minister_. _Ours_, replied the
+former, _consecrates Bishops; therefore, to be sure, he has the Preference
+above the Cardinal_ Dubois---- _A very pretty Argument this!_ said one of
+_Dubois's_ Lacqueys, _Why, if there's any thing in Consecration, my Master
+is the greater Lord, in that respect too: For yours may consecrate
+Bishops, but mine consecrates G-d every Day of his Life._ And, indeed; if
+the Fellow meant his Master's Swearing by all that's Sacred, he was not
+in the wrong; for the Cardinal had a very bad Habit of Swearing, like any
+Grenadier.
+
+The Cardinal left no great Estate behind him; and whether it was owing to
+his Disinterestedness, or to his want of Time to amass Wealth, his Fortune
+being but of a short Duration, his Heirs had not much Reason to rejoice at
+his Death. The Duke of _Orleans_ soon forgot him, and nothing preserved
+his Memory so long in _France_ itself, but certain Satires and Epitaphs
+made upon him by the Wits; which might have been transmitted, perhaps, to
+Posterity, if there had not been too much Gall in them. The Cardinal
+_Dubois_ lies interr'd in the Church of _St. Honore_, where his Brother
+was a Canon. This Clergyman set up a Marble Tomb for him, where the
+Cardinal is represented on his Knees, inclin'd towards the Altar of the
+Choir, but his Head seems to turn from it; upon which the Critics remark,
+that he durst not, since his Death, look towards what he had profan'd in
+his Life.
+
+The Cardinal _Dubois_ obtained in Favour of _Cambray_, that the Congress
+should be held there for accommodating the Differences between the Emperor
+and _Spain_. The _French_ made great Boast of this Matter, and vaunted how
+much it was to the Honour of the Duke of _Orleans_, that all the Powers of
+_Europe_ should send Ambassadors to him, to submit their Fortunes to his
+Arbitration. The same Things were said with regard to the Congress of
+_Soissons_. _They are come_, said the Court-Flatterers, _into our own
+Country, to desire Peace of us_. They were not so modest as the Allies
+were heretofore; for when _Lewis_ XIV. sent his Ambassadors to _Aix la
+Chapelle_, _Nimeguen_, _Ryswic_, _Gertruydenberg_, _Utrecht_, _Rastadt_,
+&c. we did not say, That the King came to beg a Peace of us; whereas the
+_French_ always said, _That they gave Peace to Europe_. Be this as it
+will, they have no very great Reason to boast of the two last Congresses
+that were held in their Country; which tho' both were opened with a World
+of Splendor, yet both came to nothing. The Treaty of _Vienna_, concluded
+the 19th of _April 1725_. O. S. put a Period to the _Cambray_ Congress;
+the Operations of which, during four Years Continuance, amounted to
+nothing more than forming fine Rules for the Ceremonial, and the
+maintaining of a good Order among the Domestics. The Baron _de Ripperda_,
+afterwards created a Duke and Grandee of _Spain_, and also Prime Minister
+to their Catholic Majesties, being a Person of great Vivacity, was so
+tir'd with the Dilatoriness of the Congress of _Cambray_, that he went to
+_Vienna_, with the Name of the Baron _de Puffenberg_, and established so
+strict a Friendship betwixt his Master and the Emperor, that the like was
+never, perhaps, known before between those two Courts, even when the House
+of _Austria_ possessed the Throne of _Spain_. This very much eclipsed the
+Glory of the Congress of _Cambray_, and the Congress of _Soissons_
+received as great a Check afterwards by the Treaty of _Seville_.
+
+From _Cambray_, I went to Valenciennes, the last Place in _French
+Flanders_, and one of the most considerable Towns in that Province. The
+Governor of it is the Prince _de Tingry_, who is the Son of the famous
+Duke _de Luxembourg_, the Marshal of _France_; whose Honour our Writers
+have endeavoured to sully, by accusing him of having held a Correspondence
+with the Devil, and of gaining so many Victories over us by that Means.
+The Prince _de Tingry_ distinguished himself very much during the last
+War, by the Name of the Chevalier _de Luxembourg_. He contributed a great
+deal to the Support of _Lisle_ when it was besieged, by throwing a Convoy
+of Powder into it in the Night-time. He is look'd upon by all the
+Officers, as one of the chief Generals in _France_. Considering his Birth,
+Merit, Services, and those of his Father too, he ought to have had the
+Marshal's Staff a long time ago; and 'twas thought he would have been
+included in the last Promotion, but he happened to be left out[81]. He is
+now one of the oldest Lieutenant-Generals. I cannot help mentioning his
+Politeness and Civility, having infinite Reason to acknowledge his Favours
+to myself.
+
+Mons, the Capital City of _Hainault_, is not so large a City as
+_Valenciennes_, but I believe has more Gentry in it; and that, if it had a
+_French_ Garison, would have more Parties of Pleasure. The Duke
+_d'Aremberg_ is Governor both of this City, and of _Hainault_, of which he
+is Hereditary Grand Bailiff; but he resides at _Brussels_, and never comes
+into this Province, except to hold an Assembly of the States. This
+Nobleman is a Sovereign Prince of the Empire, Lieutenant-General and
+Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, Governor of _Hainault_, and of the City of
+_Mons_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and lately a Captain of the
+Halbardiers of the Emperor's Guard. He was but in his Cradle when he
+received the Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece from King _Charles_
+II. after his Father had been killed in _Hungary_. He is the only Nobleman
+in all the _Netherlands_, that has recognized the House of _Austria_
+alone, for his Sovereign. His Mother, who is the Daughter of the late
+Marquis _de Grana_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, prevented him from
+engaging with any other Side, and always rejected the Advantages that
+were offered to her on the Part of _Philip_ V. After the _Netherlands_
+were reduced to the Obedience of their lawful Sovereign, by the Battle of
+_Ramillies_, the Duchess _d'Aremberg_ and her Son were the first to
+acknowledge King _Charles_ III. The Son had a _Flemish_ Regiment in that
+Prince's Service, and was very young when he made his first Campaign under
+my Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas under him and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_,
+that he made all his future Campaigns, wherein he always signalized his
+Valour, but particularly at the Battle of _Belgrade_. 'Tis certain, that
+if the Duke had stay'd longer at _Vienna_, he would have had some
+important Employment long ere now. He has all the Qualities necessary for
+a good General, and an able Minister, and has every Endowment that renders
+a Man amiable. The Emperor values him, and Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_
+lov'd and esteem'd him: But the Duke seems to have no Inclination to
+improve these Advantages, and prefers the tranquil Pleasures of
+_Brussels_, to the Tumult of the Court of _Vienna_.
+
+I don't mention the Battle of _Malplaquet_, which was fought in the
+Neighbourhood of _Mons_; nor the Siege of that City; which, to be sure,
+have been often repeated in your Ears, and what I have already told you of
+upon other Occasions.
+
+From _Mons_ to _Brussels_, there's a famous Causey. We pass thro' _Halle_,
+whose Church is very much frequented by the Devotees of this Country, and
+has a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin, to which the Princes of the
+House of _Austria_ have made great Presents.
+
+The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is
+the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally
+old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house,
+there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience
+of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and
+down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called
+the Hell of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care
+taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter'd with Dirt, or
+choak'd with Dust.
+
+The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious
+Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look
+like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not.
+The Archduchess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of
+_Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Nassau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder
+of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness
+prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more
+spacious and commodious, tho' 'twas offered her by the Duke _d'Aremberg_,
+who is the Proprietor of it.
+
+This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which
+was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were
+preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archduchess intended to give
+the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the
+Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it
+without any Noise, but it mastered them. 'Twas four Hours, however, before
+it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the
+Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had
+been permitted to have given their Assistance: But for fear of Confusion,
+and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such
+Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the
+Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the
+whole was consumed. The Archduchess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle;
+for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when
+she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant,
+her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a
+Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment
+that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a Shift to save her Dog,
+and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in
+her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to
+retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempre_, her Master of the Horse,
+whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed
+to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so
+much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which
+they were exposed. But even here the Archduchess could not be safe; for
+_Rubempre's_ House was so near her own, that 'twas fear'd the Fire would
+have reach'd it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of
+_Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of
+her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempre_ furnished
+her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with Shifts and other
+Apparel; and 'twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended
+from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the
+Nobility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the
+Plate.
+
+Every body agrees, that the Archduchess preserved an extraordinary
+Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually
+encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily
+grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d'Uhlefeldt_, Lady of
+the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This
+unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by
+the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was
+snatch'd as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched
+from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the
+Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy
+the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her
+Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The
+whole Court was charm'd, to see with what Resignation she bore her
+Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since God
+had saved the Archduchess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness
+honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be
+performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at
+which all the Nobility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry
+for the Loss of her.
+
+In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archduchess's
+Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a
+Gold Toilet, were missing.
+
+The Archduchess is the eldest of the Emperor's three Sisters. She is
+jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a noble and
+majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but
+with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into
+the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro' _Louvain_, she returned an Answer
+in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that
+Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine
+Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of
+Virtue and Piety. 'Tis impossible for any one living to be more
+charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the
+Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour
+at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a
+Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to God, she
+bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her
+most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that 'tis no manner of
+Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.
+
+The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at
+_Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies
+wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her,
+and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least
+Disgust with any of her Domestics.
+
+Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a
+_Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity
+and Sincerity, impossible to be byass'd by any thing but Justice, a good
+[OE]conomist, and always disinterested. Tho' the People of this Country
+are not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they
+all agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is
+pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of
+Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to
+every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by
+Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He
+is good-natur'd, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an
+extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is
+universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt
+as his Master.
+
+M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be
+relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person
+of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a
+Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho' he
+had not the Character of Ambassador, he was let into all Affairs, the
+Emperor's Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to
+him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor's
+Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent
+Ambassador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first
+Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in
+order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archduchess.
+I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is
+affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves
+Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his
+Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please
+the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out
+a great deal of Money with 'em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of
+_Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince
+expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from
+_Bavaria_. _The Archduchess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing,
+and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this
+Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred
+thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their
+Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her
+most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well,
+and keeps out of every body's Debt; which is what can't be said of any
+Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from
+these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make
+Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to
+every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few
+that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master
+would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of
+_Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight
+or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one
+that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now
+Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding
+the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the
+advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.
+
+The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the
+World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing.
+The Archduchess is served like the Empress, and nobody has the Privilege
+of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg'd that Liberty,
+but 'twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as
+they did the Archduchess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with
+the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _'Twas
+very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archduchess _at_
+Brussels.
+
+The Ladies of this Country, who have Titles, of whom there are many whose
+Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of
+being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but
+they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged,
+that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this
+Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not
+Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to
+the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as
+well as others, stand in Presence of the Archduchesses. Others claim'd the
+Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually
+presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better
+instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and
+told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to
+come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and
+for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at
+Court; but when they saw that nobody regarded their Pouting, and were
+apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now
+do as they ought.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are
+some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many,
+who, tho' they have very pompous Titles, would be very much at a Loss to
+prove their noble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they
+were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_,
+_Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important
+Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve,
+it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the
+Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _'tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the
+Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so
+unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don't mention it
+to us. There's not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all,
+have Reason on their Side: For many of 'em, tho' they have never served
+the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to
+Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the
+_Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to
+blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to
+receive their Reward.
+
+It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho' few of the _Flemings_, under
+whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_,
+go to _Vienna_, 'tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The
+Nobility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they
+live therefore with very great [OE]conomy, like private People. They
+seldom make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of 'em keeps an open Table.
+Yet there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_
+itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_,
+formerly assumed only the Title of _Excellency_; but since they have been
+under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and
+_Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the Title of _Highnesses_, which is
+given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it
+with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d'Aremberg_ is the only
+Nobleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho' he is the
+Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.
+
+_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of
+_la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the
+_Netherlands_. When this Nobleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very
+great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality,
+and 'tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a
+Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her noble and
+gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons
+of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a
+Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but 'tis attended with Envy. The
+Prince _de la Tour_, tho' not a Sovereign, is nobly ally'd. His Mother was
+a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a
+Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince
+_Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or
+Nobility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong.
+I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho' those of _la
+Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity
+of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so
+long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can't help thinking,
+that a Family, which has been ally'd for many Generations with the
+greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the
+Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank'd among our best Families in _Germany_.
+
+Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the
+Archduchess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very
+natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it
+were, brought up with the Archduchess; and Friendships so early contracted
+are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_
+discovers such an Attachment to the Archduchess, that 'tis not surprising
+that she should honour her with her Confidence.
+
+I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not
+very gay, and I'll assure you those of the City are much of the same dull
+Taste. There's a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is
+horrible. The Assemblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so
+when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady,
+there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time
+of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing
+falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace,
+Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very
+great Perfection. _Lenir_'s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest
+for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with
+it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince
+_Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor
+_Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_,
+_France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine
+Piece of Tapestry for the Archduchess, representing the _Israelites_
+worshipping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law.
+The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has
+made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent
+the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the
+Town-house, and worth seeing.
+
+Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor's Troops
+in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised
+by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is
+descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes
+the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has
+gone thro' all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great
+Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners
+very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary
+Expence.
+
+The Governor of _Brussels_ is the Marshal _de Wrangel_, a venerable old
+Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has
+gone thro' all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very
+rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good
+Table.
+
+The Prince _de Rubempre_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most
+distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the
+Archduchess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous Nobleman,
+and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_.
+
+The Prince of _Nassau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness's Band of
+Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger
+Brother of the Prince of _Nassau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of
+_William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, assumed the Title of Prince of
+_Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to
+the King. The Prince of _Nassau_, of whom I here make mention, was also
+formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis
+_de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the
+Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but
+his Birth, and the assiduous Application he gives to the Office which he
+holds under the Archduchess, will soon procure him the Honour of the
+Golden Fleece.
+
+I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so
+well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are
+continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to
+you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial
+Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have
+the Honour to be, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Liege, June 28, 1732._
+
+From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of
+_Flanders_, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_.
+The _Scheld_ passes thro' the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided
+into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Canals. 'Tis very
+large in Circumference, insomuch, that 'tis reported, the Emperor
+_Charles_ V. us'd to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86].
+This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained
+in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is
+decay'd, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The
+Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most
+notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were
+severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their
+Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed
+through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused
+twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a
+greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away
+their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a
+Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a
+Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of
+its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
+
+The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp,
+broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it
+very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place:
+Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say,
+that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep
+_Ghent_ than _Brussels_.
+
+I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have
+been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some
+of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron
+_de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a
+Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de
+Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess,
+Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and
+is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amusements there are in this Town, I
+cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no
+Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
+
+I went in the Bark along the Canal from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the
+most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a
+good Room, and with Company very happily mix'd. At Noon we had a Dinner
+served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_;
+where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. 'Tis a Rule in this Bark, for
+the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts
+pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of
+Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of
+the Juice of the Grape.
+
+BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues
+from the Sea, upon the Canal of _Reye_; which being divided into several
+navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes
+to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to _Bruges_
+of four hundred Tons. 'Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho' 'tis
+considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at
+_Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one
+of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent
+Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and
+open, with several large Squares, and there's no want of Inhabitants; but
+they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. 'Tis a hard matter for
+a Foreigner to get acquainted with 'em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally
+unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a
+_German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of
+_Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of
+being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at
+_Brussels_. And, as I don't care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately
+to OSTEND.
+
+This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three
+Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company
+established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_,
+however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for
+Pleasures. 'Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable
+that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very
+strong: 'Tis encompass'd with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks,
+and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due
+Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have
+been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every
+Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and
+_England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the
+_Netherlands_.
+
+NEWPORT, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_.
+'Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify'd, and can lay the Country
+under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a
+Degree, that there's never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one
+time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid
+unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the
+Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to
+do with their Time.
+
+As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one
+of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all
+_Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in
+Holland, and damask'd Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its
+Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a
+Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.
+_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals. The
+second is M. _Dickson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel's Commission, and
+is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he
+is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons
+of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to
+Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one
+another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house,
+where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I
+dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly,
+as to squeeze the Breath out of one another's Bodies.
+
+I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns
+belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Nassau
+Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the
+_Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this
+Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier
+Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor,
+and also to the States General his Masters. But I can't imagine how he
+would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
+should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may
+be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the
+_Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring
+her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the
+most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they
+were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that
+the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill
+defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there
+was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it
+to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the
+Breach, was answered, That 'twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless
+he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the
+Gate. There's no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and
+some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.
+
+LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a
+City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. 'Tis a large,
+fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav'd. It
+has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which
+discover its Riches. There's a new Town-house building here, in a bad
+Situation; but when finish'd, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de
+Bousslers_, whose Father acquir'd great Glory by his vigorous Defence of
+_Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine
+handsome young Nobleman, tho' of an under Size. He applies very much to
+the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in
+that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body
+speak well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I
+found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and
+amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too
+liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all
+her young Noblemen were like to him.
+
+There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de
+Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late
+Duchess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the
+Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there's abundance
+of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than
+ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another
+upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In
+Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living
+here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.
+
+You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies
+retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the
+Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the
+King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of
+_Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Cassel_, puts one in
+Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_
+and its Chatellany to the Emperor.
+
+Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there's a Concourse to it
+from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the
+Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and
+embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
+delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call'd me back to _Germany_, I
+should have stay'd here some time longer.
+
+I return'd again thro' _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_,
+surnam'd the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low
+Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _Noble_, _Ghent_
+the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the
+_Strong_; and so of the rest.
+
+ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_,
+stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our
+Lady's Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is
+worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which 'tis adorned. The
+Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller's Attention.
+This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening
+in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in
+Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their
+Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent
+Chapels, are still to be seen.
+
+The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of
+_Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil
+Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.
+
+_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. 'Twas formerly a City
+of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its
+Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is
+incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came
+to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak'd up by
+Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
+_Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_.
+Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely
+rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac'd and
+embroider'd Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to
+the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at
+_Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There's a charming
+Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend
+there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that
+is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together,
+you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.
+
+The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals, is Governor of
+_Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his
+House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he
+appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_,
+when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of
+Cardinal _Alberoni_.
+
+This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of _Antwerp_; from whence I
+went to MECHLIN, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth
+seeing. The Cardinal _de Bossu_, Brother of the Prince _de Chimay_, is its
+Archbishop, and the only one in the _Netherlands_, belonging to the House
+of _Austria_. You know, that at _Mechlin_ is held the Sovereign Council or
+Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and
+Solicitors here, and hears so many of the Quirks of the Law. There are
+few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.
+
+The Causey between _Mechlin_ and _Louvain_ is a new Piece of Work. Before
+this was cast up, the People of _Mechlin_ were obliged, in the
+Winter-time, to go thro' _Brussels_, in order to avoid the bad Roads,
+which was a great Way about.
+
+LOUVAIN is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students,
+Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I
+only pass'd quite thro' the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and
+I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are
+the most unpolish'd of all the _Netherlands_. One of the grand Privileges
+of the University of _Louvain_, is a Nomination to a great Number of
+Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of
+the _Netherlands_, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence,
+that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments
+they have no Knowledge. Mr. _Strickland_, by Birth an _Englishman_, and
+Bishop of _Namur_, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair
+determined at _Rome_. But I'll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more
+than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.
+
+There's a very good Pavement from _Louvain_ to _Tirlemont_, which is a
+Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so
+that I brush'd thro' it, and went and lay at MAESTRICHT, one of the best
+and strongest Places in _Europe_, belonging to the _Dutch_; to whom
+_Spain_ abandoned it by the Peace of _Munster_. The _French_ Army took it
+in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The _Dutch_
+Propriety in it was recogniz'd by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and they
+maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince _William_
+of _Hesse Cassel_, Brother to the King of _Sweden_; but since the Death of
+the Landgrave of _Hesse_, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the
+said Landgraviate, resides no longer at _Maestricht_; which is a Loss to
+this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv'd with all the Dignity
+answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during
+his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] _d'Amerongen_.
+
+The Walks about _Maestricht_, especially those on the Ramparts, are
+charming; for there's no want of good Company, and 'tis the genteelest of
+all the Garisons that belong to the _Dutch_. 'Tis a very pretty Town, with
+beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well
+as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is
+remarkable in all the Towns of _Holland_. The _Maese_ passes thro' this
+Town, and over it there's a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured
+for a Truth, the late Marshal _d'Auverquerque_, when a young Man, leaped
+his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle _de Feldtbruck_, how
+sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and
+Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked
+upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did
+not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the
+Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to
+keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade
+with him to the Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he
+reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his
+Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
+
+I stay'd a few Days at _Maestricht_, which City put me in Mind of my
+Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector _Frederic_ of
+_Brandenbourg_. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new
+Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion
+wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for
+him.
+
+The City of LIEGE is about five Leagues from _Maestricht_. A Vessel goes
+thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so
+rapid as the _Maese_, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is
+what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
+
+The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that _Liege_ was built by
+that _Ambiorix_ King of the _Eburons_, a great Enemy of the _Romans_ who
+cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of _Caesar's_
+Lieutenants; for which Affront, _Caesar_ afterwards took a sweet Revenge.
+But be this as it will, 'tis certain that _Liege_ is a very ancient City.
+'Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley,
+encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro'
+which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the _Maese_, which passes
+thro' the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral,
+dedicated to St. _Lambert_, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of
+Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are
+included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or
+_Tressonciers_, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the
+Doctor's Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will,
+comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of _Germany_.
+
+The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of _Liege_ is ancient. It has large
+Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not
+airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of
+_Berg_. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector
+of _Cologne_, and the Cardinal of _Saxe Zeits_; but he had the good Luck
+to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased
+with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs
+with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of
+very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his
+Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always
+distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a
+_Capuchin_ to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father
+was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to
+their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This _Capuchin_ Minister died without
+being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince's Domestics. He is
+succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another _Capuchin_; but his
+Authority is more limited.
+
+The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at
+_Serai_, a Country House a small League from _Liege_, on the Banks of the
+_Maese_, towards _Huy_, where he has seldom any body with him but his
+Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber.
+His Table is not so sumptuous as 'tis elegant; his Liveries are very
+modest, his Guards but few, and cloath'd exactly alike. He has rais'd a
+Regiment of Guards, of which the Count _de Beaufort_, Brother to the
+Governor of _Charleroy_, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the
+old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has
+been intirely ruin'd and demolish'd, since it was besieg'd and taken by my
+Lord _Marlborough_. 'Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the
+Citadel of _Liege_ shall not be rebuilt.
+
+You know, that the Episcopal See of _Liege_ was formerly at _Tongres_; of
+which, they say, that _Maternus_, sent by St. _Peter_, was the first
+Bishop. The See was transferr'd by his Successors, first to _Maestricht_,
+and then to _Liege_.
+
+There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love
+Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and
+have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. _Paul's_
+Church here would be admir'd, even in _Rome_ itself. Divine Service is
+perform'd in it with very great Regularity; and 'tis impossible not to be
+edify'd by it, the _Roman_ Ritual being observed in every Particular.
+
+The Pleasures of _Liege_ consist very much in Drinking, for there's little
+Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the
+Tavern, where there are good _Bar_ and _Burgundy_ Wines, and a sort of
+Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of _Liege_
+go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great
+Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies
+commonly end like the _Italian_ Comedies. The _Liegeois_ are accused of
+being insincere, and are called, _the_ Italians _of the_ Netherlands. They
+drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are
+Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive, that they think any sort of
+Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that
+the Country of _Liege_ alone furnishes the Chamber of _Wetzlar_ with more
+Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever
+conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none,
+whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho' I shall ever esteem the
+honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter
+not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the _Liegeois_,
+who appeared to me such as I have describ'd them; and if I wrong them, I
+ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases,
+and for my own part, I shall be overjoy'd to hear of any Merit found among
+them.
+
+The Country of _Liege_ is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except
+Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron
+and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth
+proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable,
+because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the _English_
+Coal, and renders _Liege_, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as
+_London_.
+
+The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who
+are not always of the Prince's Opinion. In this Country are reckon'd fifty
+Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall'd Towns, and near
+fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.
+
+I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at _Spa_, where I
+hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLVI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._
+
+The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place
+itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are
+not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil
+myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which
+they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are
+several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all
+Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of
+_Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every
+Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the
+human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which
+must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a
+little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the
+Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring
+is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which
+Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name.
+The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own
+Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely,
+that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks
+successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even
+go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied
+himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He
+would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He
+complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look'd very well, eat
+heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I
+thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner.
+I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from
+the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy'd to renew my Acquaintance there with
+Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho' I am
+extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I
+cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and
+more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.
+
+In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the
+Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital
+in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one
+of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it
+was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred
+Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has
+a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants
+are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal
+of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great
+Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many
+Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of
+_England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four
+Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks
+and Mountains.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to
+_Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say,
+that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by
+the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_
+caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_,
+Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors
+crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given
+an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church
+of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be
+of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.
+
+The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That
+during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross
+over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice
+which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given
+them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of
+_Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_'s Confessor. When the Electors were going to
+take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre
+which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who
+did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the
+Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_'s
+Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all
+the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the
+Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the
+Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the
+Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to
+tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this
+Transaction, tho' white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to
+the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond
+Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my
+Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his
+pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but
+it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he
+met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a
+Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the
+Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest
+upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the
+Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_,
+Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal
+of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be
+chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest
+Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed
+_Rodolph_'s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_,
+that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it;
+_Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the
+_Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_
+Line.
+
+The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_
+III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops
+attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt,
+a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a
+Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give
+as much, or as little Credit as you please. 'Tis, that God, in order fully
+to answer _Charlemagne_'s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of
+Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St.
+_Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time,
+and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear
+visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope's
+Blessing; after which they vanish'd. But I think, without pretending to
+dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they
+ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than
+the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to
+doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I
+saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in
+the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise,
+and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb
+there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to
+the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_.
+
+_Excitus bac arca_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se
+reddit uterque Hierarcha._
+
+After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must
+be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to
+give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady's
+Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great
+Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from
+all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only
+exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the
+Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having
+been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of 'em return Home, without being
+able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is
+the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord.
+Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the
+People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form
+of one of those Proclamations.
+
+                         At the first RELIQUE.
+
+    We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the
+    Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the
+    Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus
+    Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God,
+    that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that
+    the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we
+    may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
+
+The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.
+
+In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of
+Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider'd with Pearls, and other
+sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which
+_Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. 'Tis
+of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold;
+but what's become of 'em, I know not. 'Tis in this Chair that the King of
+the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here
+the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first
+Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and
+the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a
+great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given
+by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that
+Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church's
+Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.
+
+The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which
+was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired;
+so that 'tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new
+Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome
+Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and
+there's very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season;
+but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess
+_de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The
+last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been
+a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of
+_Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation.
+He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.
+
+Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there's none of more
+agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being
+perfectly good. There's the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where
+the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their
+Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well
+furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season,
+hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.
+
+From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro' a
+very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one
+ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro' JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy
+of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to
+overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius Caesar_
+caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to
+_Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either.
+There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I
+thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or
+Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, 'tis to be hoped, is in a better
+State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the
+General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_.
+The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the
+_Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place;
+and 'tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches
+in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the
+Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, 'tis hardly supposed that the King
+of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just
+Pretensions.
+
+COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_.
+There's nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be
+seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song.
+The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was
+born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal
+Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its
+Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. 'Twere to
+be wish'd, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it
+into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more
+Houses than Families. For 'tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a
+whole House to himself.
+
+If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number
+of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth;
+for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year.
+The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle
+St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most
+magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does
+no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in
+_Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who
+must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some
+Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than
+the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were
+brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the
+City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as
+the sacred Reliques had pass'd, that nothing might profane it. The
+Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of
+_Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it
+would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a
+Company of the Burghers.
+
+The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere;
+but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_
+Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the
+old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a
+Kin to the Holy Virgin.
+
+The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City;
+nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice
+here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no
+manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared
+among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses,
+and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are
+very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The
+Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in
+_Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of
+'em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired,
+they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are
+Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and
+drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have
+not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_
+Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.
+
+There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City,
+particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into
+the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day
+before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson's_[91]
+Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de
+Medicis_ lodg'd, while she liv'd here, and where she died in a Condition
+so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human
+Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap'd
+Riches and Honour, not content with having banish'd her out of the
+Kingdom, abandon'd her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv'd
+in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the
+Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the
+Ministry, retir'd likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of
+_France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat
+it.
+
+I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have
+seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It
+maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the
+Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all
+Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because
+when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged
+to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search'd, and every thing
+turn'd topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of
+putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put
+all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to
+drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you
+shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ
+from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct
+Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of
+the Public.
+
+There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the
+City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_,
+about half a League off.
+
+I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour.
+He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the
+_Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough
+before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time,
+and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him
+in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the
+Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that
+cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my
+next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I
+am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _Bonn, July 30, 1732._
+
+As I came to BONN, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that
+time to walk about. This City stands upon the _Rhine_, five Leagues from
+_Cologne_; from whence one travels to it thro' one of the finest Roads in
+the World, well-pav'd and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain,
+encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very
+ancient, that _Florus_ tells us 'twas founded by _Drusus_. The Learned
+say, 'tis the _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, mention'd by _Tacitus_. Be
+this as it will, _Bonn_ has not the least Monument that favours of the
+_Roman_ Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at
+all, when the Court is not there. 'Twas heretofore very well fortify'd,
+and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenbourg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_, who besieged it
+at the Head of his own Troops, and those of _Munster_ and _Holland_; and
+lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all _French_
+Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary
+manner; for, being just come out of _France_, with a Spirit of Hatred and
+Revenge against _Lewis_ XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of _Nantes_, had
+forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as
+were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every _Frenchman_ that
+was a Catholic, being odious to them. _St. Bonnet_, their commanding
+Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the
+Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice
+to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of
+it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well 'twas his Due, but
+that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great
+Esteem. _St. Bonnet_ said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation
+to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all
+Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure
+him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of
+Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to
+continue always near his Person. _St. Bonnet_, ambitious of Glory, and,
+perhaps, hurry'd by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector's
+Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days
+after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.
+
+During this Siege, _Bonn_ was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce
+a House was left standing; for the Baron _d'Asfeldt_, who commanded in the
+Place for _Lewis_ XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a
+Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.
+
+This City was again besieg'd in 1703, by my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_,
+who obliged the Marquis[93] _d'Alegre_, now Marshal of _France_, to
+capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of
+_Utrecht_, that the _Dutch_ should keep Garison in _Bonn_; but the Elector
+_Joseph Clement_, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn
+them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own
+Territories.
+
+This same Prince, at his Return from _France_, found his capital City in a
+sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy'd in the last Siege, were not
+yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair
+of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old
+Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and
+built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of
+the most considerable Structures in _Germany_, if it had been brought to
+Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish'd, has spacious
+Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn'd, and nobly furnish'd. The
+Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth
+seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord's
+Nativity; which is wonderfully well designed; and they may be reckon'd
+the Master-pieces of the _Gobelins_, where the Elector _Joseph Clement_,
+caused them to be made.
+
+The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded
+by St. _Helena_, the Mother of the Emperor _Constantine_, to the Honour of
+the Holy Martyrs _Cassius Florus_, and _Malusius_, Soldiers of a _Roman_
+Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the
+Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the
+Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so
+very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church
+of _Rome_.
+
+Tho' the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at _Bonn_, yet
+he spends most of his Time at _Bruhl_, a House he caused to be built three
+Leagues out of Town; which, tho' not very large, has very fine Apartments,
+adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The
+Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine
+when finish'd.
+
+The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a
+League from _Bonn_, near a Village called _Popelsdorff_, which was built
+in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the
+present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ
+the Materials in the Works at _Bruhl_. Near _Popelsdorff_, there's a
+Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.
+
+All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of _Bonn_, which are
+moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here,
+than at _Cologne_; for _Bonn_ grows every Day finer, while the latter is
+decaying.
+
+After having walk'd about here a great deal, expecting the Elector's
+Return, this Prince is at length arrived, together with Duke _Ferdinand_
+his Brother. He was welcom'd with the Discharge of the Cannon, and
+complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return,
+and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the _Teutonic_ Order.
+Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress'd in a Lay
+Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the
+Dress which is most affected by the Electors of _Cologne_, is like that of
+the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as
+Grand Master of a Military Order.
+
+His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called _Clement Augustus_;
+for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves
+Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit
+of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an
+Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly
+descended. He lived in his Infancy at _Gratz_, together with the Princes
+his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards,
+with Duke _Philip_ his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis _Santini_, a Native
+of _Lucca_, a Commandeur of the Order of _Malta_, and a Lieutenant-General
+in the Service of _Bavaria_, was appointed for their Governor. Duke
+_Philip_ was chose Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_. The Gentleman who
+was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count _de Plettenberg_, now
+the Elector's Prime Minister, who was then purely attach'd to that Prince,
+from the Devotion he always had for the House of _Bavaria_; and Duke
+_Philip_ dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those
+two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke _Clement-Augustus_ for their Bishop.
+This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope's own Hand, at _Rome_; and
+afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after
+this, the Elector of _Cologne_, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be
+appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of _Joseph Clement_, _Clement
+Augustus_ succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of _Hildesheim_.
+After the Death of the Duke of _York_, _Ernest-Augustus_, Duke of
+_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and Bishop of _Osnabruck_, he was chose for
+Successor to that Prince's Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand
+Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights,
+who have Commanderies in that Order.
+
+The Enemies of the House of _Bavaria_ murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of
+such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; _What!_ say they,
+_one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the
+like in all our Annals; 'tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church_. I
+am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so
+or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and
+even more Benefices; and that 'tis for the Welfare and Interest of the
+Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. _Albert_, Cardinal
+of _Brandenbourg_, was at the same time Archbishop of _Mentz_ and
+_Magdebourg_. The Archduke _Leopold_ held nine great[94] Benefices; but it
+was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the
+Church. _Francis_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector of _Mentz_, tho' not a
+Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry
+against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector
+should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or Merit to
+the Archduke _Leopold_, and to the Prince of _Newbourg_.
+
+Tho' I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the
+Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the
+contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several
+Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by
+the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them,
+separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the
+Misfortune of _Germany_ to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being
+united under one Head, they are a formidable State.
+
+_But_, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen _was only Bishop of_
+Munster, _and yet he made_ Holland _tremble_. This is very true; but they
+don't consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of
+_Lewis_ XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would
+never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But
+admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic,
+what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of _Europe_, and
+particularly of _Germany_, is very much chang'd since his Death. The
+Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters
+of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the
+best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics,
+on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions
+impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade.
+Therefore, I say it again, 'tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the
+Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute
+their utmost to augment it, in order to furnish Religion and the Church
+with an able Protector.
+
+Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious
+Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both
+Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is _Ferdinand_ Count _de
+Plettenberg-Nordkirchen_, whose Family has been of distinguish'd Rank for
+a long time in _Westphalia_, and has given several Princes Bishops of
+_Paderborn_ and _Munster_. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and
+M. _de Plettenberg_ is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been
+promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy
+Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the
+Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the
+Elector to guarantee the _Pragmatic Sanction_: The Count _de Plettenberg_
+is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be
+ambitious of in _Germany_: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor's
+Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the
+Elector of _Cologne_'s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime
+Minister.
+
+Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the
+Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. 'Twas this
+Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose,
+first, Bishop of _Paderborn_ and _Munster_, and afterwards Bishop of
+_Hildesheim_ and _Osnabruck_: He also contributed very much to his being
+elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_; for had it not been for his
+Representations, the deceased Elector _Joseph Clement_ would, perhaps,
+have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he
+apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step:
+But the Count _de Plettenberg_ dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and
+by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the
+Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services,
+performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject,
+could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the
+Elector's intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The
+Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His
+Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He
+has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in
+their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the
+First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce
+presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour
+itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which
+only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears
+attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without
+affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent,
+vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o'Clock
+every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a
+magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there
+is that Frugality observed, which is so laudable in those who have
+Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to
+the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the
+Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and
+Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in _Germany_, so he
+is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His
+Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of
+excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of
+his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at _Nordkirchen_,
+where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the
+Count _de Plettenberg_ adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens
+to it, which will not easily be match'd in _Germany_. This Minister has an
+only Son at the University of _Leyden_, a Youth of great Hopes, who is
+already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and
+Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of _Cologne_; and to whom the Count
+_de Plettenberg_, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to
+follow, and his Example to imitate.
+
+There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The
+Baron _de Nothasst_, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the
+Elector's Guard. M. _de Walhot de Goudenau_, Marshal of the Court. The
+Baron _de Schourss_, and the Marquises _Caponi_ and _Trotti_, the
+Elector's Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to
+Foreigners. The Baron _de Sparr_, by Birth a _Swede_, whose Father died in
+the Service of _France_, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of _Bonn_.
+His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to _Rome_, to desire the Holy
+Father's Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the _Teutonic_
+Order. M. _de Sparr_ was Page to the late Elector of _Bavaria_, in which
+Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of
+several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his
+Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography,
+and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the
+State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the
+Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to
+the Elector of _Bavaria_. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God,
+whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into
+Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a
+Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest's Orders. He said his first
+Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke _Theodore_ of
+_Bavaria_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_ and _Freisingen_, said his. He went a Year
+ago to _Rome_, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the
+Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every
+body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that 'twere to be wished
+all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to
+God, and the World.
+
+The Elector's Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two
+Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron _de Nothasst_ is Commander
+in chief of those Troops, which, tho' but a Handful, are sufficient for
+the Guard of _Bonn_, _Rhinberck_, and _Keiserswaert_, which were fortified
+heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.
+
+In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of _Cologne_
+governs with the Title of Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral
+Palace, and is served by the Elector's Officers. During this Time, _Bonn_
+is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies
+at the House of the Countess _de Fugger_, where there are many more of the
+Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure.
+In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                             LETTER XLVIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                       _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._
+
+I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the
+disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not
+fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a
+little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the
+_Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is
+made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The
+_Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great
+Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for
+_Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and
+arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the
+Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for
+_Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of
+the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank
+with Wine.
+
+A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an
+abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his
+Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is
+haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met
+with, more or less, in all Countries.
+
+The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where
+the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too,
+are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de
+Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to
+be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.
+
+The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to
+_Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give
+me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are
+cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly
+take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of
+Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages.
+
+The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_,
+at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley
+surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and
+Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to
+them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several
+Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_,
+the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very
+rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look
+upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a
+Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is
+to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de
+Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a
+lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.
+
+The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of
+_Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it
+impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is
+situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by
+itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of
+Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which,
+they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to
+be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of
+_Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much
+pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes
+but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very
+much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_,
+where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a
+Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.
+
+The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_,
+who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the
+Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and
+Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of
+_Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of
+_Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect:
+He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a
+very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his
+Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his
+Houshold not large.
+
+From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle
+of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_.
+The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and
+claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family
+of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the
+Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and
+the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A
+Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the
+_Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the
+_Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.
+
+As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is
+given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is
+reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there's
+no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine;
+which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the
+Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the
+midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to
+Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him
+from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a
+considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth
+of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous
+Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames,
+ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable
+soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it
+were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I
+questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of
+it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that
+this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a
+Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in
+which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire
+to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats.
+
+The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought
+to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion
+of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of
+_Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to
+celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in
+request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but
+wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine
+that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth
+nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of
+_Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the
+Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good,
+and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.
+
+From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of
+the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the
+_Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in
+the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five
+hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City,
+in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of
+_Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as
+it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in
+the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a
+Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a
+greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and
+Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that
+eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose
+unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the
+Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in
+the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the
+Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the
+late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic
+Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the
+whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour,
+and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_,
+whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was
+also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long
+time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd
+it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it
+may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had
+begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then
+commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to
+sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of
+_Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works,
+cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others
+of Stone erected in their stead.
+
+The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some
+fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_,
+_Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better
+Situation.
+
+The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing
+remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember
+to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time
+there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned
+with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were
+engraved;
+
+             _Auri sexcentas habet haec crux aurea libras._
+
+Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure
+you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely
+of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it.
+
+The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was
+answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are
+commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.
+
+That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the
+_Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its
+Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very
+neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The
+Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which
+represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric
+fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a
+Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a
+perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of
+which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but
+neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they
+devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or
+employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and
+industrious Occupations.
+
+It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they
+always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women,
+and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as
+that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it
+any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.
+
+At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill,
+is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector.
+_Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the
+Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a
+Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole
+are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little
+Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it,
+disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of
+the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the
+other Side of those Rivers.
+
+For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject
+to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of
+Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony.
+The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of
+the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is
+to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the
+Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while
+these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the
+neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.
+
+I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a
+little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to
+the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very
+much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I
+am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the
+sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it
+would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the
+Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same
+as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater
+Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without
+Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and
+it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of
+fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which
+really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at
+which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes
+here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.
+
+SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that
+consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of
+_Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they
+use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves,
+and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they
+don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.
+
+This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its
+Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be
+gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as
+I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from
+whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope
+to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am,
+_&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER XLIX.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                      _Cleves, Sept. 1, 1732._
+
+At my Return to _Cologne_, I went to see the Castle or Palace of BENSBERG,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_, in the Country of _Berg_, three
+Leagues from the _Rhine_, which River I passed over a flying Bridge,
+between _Cologne_ and _Duitz_. This House is worth seeing. 'Twas founded
+by Order of the Elector _John-William_, who was a Prince in every Thing
+magnificent, and sent for the most able Workmen from _Italy_ to build it.
+All this great Structure is built of very hard Stone. The Ornaments, such
+as the Frises and Architraves, are of a Kind of grey Marble, which they
+dig out of neighbouring Quarries. The Apartments are large, very well
+decorated, and adorned with the finest Paintings; and they have a Prospect
+of a vast Length of Country, which offers a Variety of grand and noble
+Scenes to View.
+
+From this House I went to DUSSELDORFF, the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_,
+belonging to the Elector _Palatine_. This City stands in the midst of a
+fine fruitful Plain, five Leagues from _Cologne_. The _Rhine_ washes its
+Walls, and runs at the Town with such Violence, that they have been
+obliged to make great Works to break the Current. _Dusseldorff_ is but a
+small Place. The late Elector _John-William_, who resided in it, had
+undertaken to aggrandize it with an additional Quarter, which they call
+the _New-Town_; but that Prince's Death, and the Absence of the Court, put
+a Stop to the Buildings. The present Elector is fortifying this Place; but
+'tis carried on so slowly, that 'twill take up a great deal of Time to
+finish it.
+
+The Elector's Castle or Palace is ancient, and has nothing remarkable, but
+a Gallery of Pictures; which Gallery consists of five great Divisions or
+Salons, three whereof are much bigger than the other two. The Pictures in
+the first Room are all by the Hand of _Rubens_. That of the _Last Day of
+Judgment_ is an admirable Piece, and one of the best that was ever done by
+that excellent Painter. They say he painted it for the Duke _Wolffgang de
+Neubourg_, in Acknowledgment for that Prince's having taken him out of
+_Spain_, where _Rubens_ was going to be arrested by the Holy Office. The
+Pictures in the second Room are all done by several _Flemish_ Masters, but
+most of 'em by _Van Dyck_. The third Room, which is the biggest, contains
+Pictures by the most skilful _Italian_ Masters. The fourth is adorned with
+the Works of the Chevalier _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter, who died
+lately at the _Hague_, having had the Honour to see some of his Pictures
+sold for a thousand gold Ducats the Piece. The Elector _John-William_ gave
+him a Pension of six thousand Florins, besides paying him two thousand
+Florins for each Picture. No _Flemish_ Painter excelled him in Designing,
+or had a better Hand at mixing of Colours. His Painting is so fine, and
+the Colouring so lively, and so well fansied, that no Enamel is more
+beautiful. Among his Works, the Connoisseurs admire _the Life and Passion
+of our Saviour_; Diana _in the Bath_, a Piece for which the Elector
+_John-William_ paid twenty thousand Florins; and the Picture of
+_Mary-Anne_ of _Medicis_, that Elector's Wife, which Princess is
+represented with her Court-Ladies in the Habit of the Vestal Virgins. The
+fifth and last Room, which is the most magnificent, contains select Pieces
+by Masters of the first Rank; as _Raphael_, _Julius Romain_, _Peter di
+Cortona_, _Guido_, _Titian_, _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Correggio_,
+_Albano_, the _Caracchis_, _Joseph Pin_, _Paul Rubens_, _Van Dyck_,
+_Reimbrants_, and many others. But that which no less attracts the Curious
+in another Taste, is the Abundance and Variety of other Things that are
+distributed up and down the several Rooms; as Figures of Brass, of the
+utmost Perfection, copy'd, for most part, from the finest Antiques, placed
+upon beautiful Tables of _Florence_; portable Cabinets, adorned with
+excellent Miniature, or inlaid Work; and, in short, an infinite Number of
+other Things, that are very much to be admired, and render this Gallery
+truly magnificent.
+
+Under these Rooms there's another Gallery, full of Statues of Marble and
+Plaister, according to the Model of all the celebrated Statues of _Rome_
+and _Florence_; the Moulds of which were collected by the Elector
+_John-William_, with very great Care and Expence.
+
+In the Market-place opposite to the Palace, is that Elector's Equestrian
+Statue, who is represented in Armour on Horseback, with the Electoral
+Bonnet on his Head. But this Monument, which is of Brass, is not
+answerable to the Cost of it: For the Horse is represented in a walking
+Pace, with his Tail dragging nine Inches on the Ground, which makes a very
+wretched Figure; tho' 'tis said, that the Man who cast this Statue, took a
+Horse which the Elector had for his Model. Possibly he might have a fine
+Mane and Tail, but this is what does not appear in Brass. The whole
+Monument is erected on a Pedestal of grey Marble, very solid, and even
+without any Inscription or Ornaments. Nevertheless, _John-William_ of
+_Neubourg_, the Elector _Palatine_, deserved as much as any Prince in the
+World, to have his Virtues transmitted to Posterity by some Inscription.
+He was magnificent, generous, liberal, a Protector of the Arts and
+Sciences: His Court and his Disbursements were like those of a King; his
+Good-nature render'd him amiable; he was the Delight of his Courtiers, and
+the Darling of his Subjects.
+
+This great Prince lived at a Time when _Germany_ had four other Princes,
+who were as great Patrons of the Arts and Sciences as himself; _viz._
+_Frederic-Augustus_ King of _Poland_, _Frederic_ King of _Prussia_,
+_Antony-Ulric_ Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, and _Charles_ Landgrave of
+_Hesse Cassel_; of all which Princes, the only one that survives is the
+King of[99] _Poland_, the rest having no Life but in History, where they
+are sure of Immortality; for, besides the Monuments they have left of
+their Grandeur, Men of Learning will not fail to transmit their Glory to
+the latest Posterity.
+
+The present Elector _Palatine_ having fixed his Residence at _Manheim_,
+there's a Regency at _Dusseldorff_, of which the Count _de Schasberg_ is
+the President. The Country of _Berg_, and that of _Juliers_, depending on
+it, are governed by States, without whose Consent the Sovereign cannot lay
+any Taxes. These Countries bring in a Million of Crowns to the Elector.
+All Religions are tolerated here, and every Communion has its particular
+Churches; but the Catholics only are admitted to the Civil Employments.
+The Reverend Fathers the Jesuits have a fine Church, and a beautiful
+Convent here. There's a Chapel without the _Cologne_ Gate, which is worth
+seeing. 'Tis built after the Model of the _Santa Casa_ of _Loretto_, and
+adorned with very fine Paintings. 'Twas founded by the Electress, Wife of
+_John-William_, to the Honour of the most Holy Virgin.
+
+Tho' the Court is no longer at _Dusseldorff_, yet here is very good
+Company, and the Gentry are very sociable and friendly to Foreigners.
+There are amiable and deserving Ladies here, particularly Madame _de
+Speik_, whose Husband is a Major-General. She would be very fit to adorn a
+Court.
+
+I went from _Dusseldorff_ to KEISERSWERDT, formerly a Place of Importance,
+which held out a destructive Siege, but is now wholly dismantled. From
+thence I proceeded to DUISBOURG, a Town in the Duchy of _Cleves_, at the
+Extremity of a Forest, where they catch wild Horses, which are small, but
+indefatigable and very serviceable. The City of _Duisbourg_ is only
+remarkable for its University. The Country betwixt this Town and _Wesel_,
+is all a Plain, and a very gravelly Soil, yet produces every thing that's
+good.
+
+After having crossed the Rivers of _Roer_ and _Lippe_ in the Ferry-boats,
+I came to WESEL, a strong Place of the Duchy of _Cleves_, belonging to the
+King of _Prussia_: 'Tis regularly fortify'd, and has a very good Citadel
+towards the _Rhine_. The late King of _Prussia_, _Frederic_ I. was the
+first that set about fortifying of _Wesel_; and his Son, King
+_Frederic-William_, has caused those Works to be carried on and finished.
+M. _Bot_, now a General Officer in _Saxony_, had the Direction of those
+Works in the first Place; after which, the Care of them was committed to
+M. _Walrave_, a Colonel Engineer. They have both contributed to render
+_Wesel_ one of the strongest Places in _Germany_. Nothing in this Town
+more particularly deserves a Traveller's Attention, than the _Berlin_
+Gate, of which M. _Bot_ drew the Model: I never saw any Thing finer, or
+more perfect of the Kind. The Arsenal also is worth seeing, and is
+extremely well furnished with all Necessaries, whether of Ordnance or
+Ammunition.
+
+In my Way from _Wesel_ to this Town, I came to SANTEN, formerly a famous
+City, but now very much decay'd. The Catholic Church is a beautiful
+Structure, and has a miraculous Image of the most Holy Virgin, to which
+the Natives pay great Devotion.
+
+'Tis five Leagues from _Santen_ to CLEVES, thro' one continued Range
+of[100] Walks. The Avenue that leads to _Cleves_ is magnificent. This Town
+is small, but very pleasant, and well built. The King's Palace is ancient,
+yet it has fine Apartments; and among the rest, a magnificent Hall.
+There's nothing surely in Nature, completer and finer than a View of these
+Apartments. _Lewis_ Duke of _Burgundy_, Grandson to _Lewis the Great_,
+coming with his Army to _Cleves_ in 1702, thought the Situation of the
+Place so charming, that he was heard to say, more than once, That he
+wish'd _Versailles_ was as well situate.
+
+_Cleves_ is the Seat of the Regency of this Duchy, the President of which
+is M. _de Borck_, a Gentleman of Quality and Merit, who acquits himself of
+his Office with a great Share of Integrity and Application, is very civil,
+and a Gentleman of a fine Presence.
+
+There are several good Families in this City, particularly those of the
+Chancellor _de Becker_, a Gentleman of distinguished Merit, who makes very
+handsome Entertainments, and lives with great Splendor; and of the
+Baroness _de Blaspiel_, a Lady of Birth and Merit. She was Maid of Honour
+to the Queen of _Prussia_, who honoured her with her Confidence; and never
+was a Favourite more worthy of it; for she always preserved the same
+Respect for her Mistress, and the same Regard for all Mankind. The whole
+Court of _Berlin_ thought her an Ornament, when it pleased the King to
+remove her from Court, by banishing M. _de Blaspiel_, who was one of his
+Ministers, to his Estate in this Province, where he died, and having no
+Children, left his Wife Heiress of a very considerable Estate. I don't
+know but this Lady thinks herself as happy in this Retirement, as she was
+at Court: All the Country respects her; and one time, when the King came
+hither, his Majesty, together with the Prince Royal, did her the Honour to
+come and dine with her, and gave her Tokens of the sincerest Esteem. I was
+formerly very well acquainted with Madame _de Blaspiel_ at Court, and had
+Opportunity to know the Goodness of her Temper thoroughly, which is what
+has induced me to give you a more particular Account of her, than of other
+Persons of Distinction in this City, with whom I was not so well
+acquainted. Farewel, my dear Friend, I am afraid I shall not see you again
+so soon as I expected; but whenever that happens, I shall have a great
+many Facts to tell you, which 'tis not always safe to commit to a Letter.
+I kiss your Hand, and am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER L.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                   _Amsterdam, Nov. 29, 1732._
+
+Instead of excusing myself for my late Silence, I confess to you, that had
+it not been for the obliging Reproaches you make me upon that Account, I
+should not have entertained you with any more of my Travels. Not that I
+thought _Holland_ did not deserve your Attention as much as any other
+Country in the World, but because, as I found I had nothing new to send
+you, I thought it best not to surfeit you with the Repetition of what
+others before me have said much better. But as you seem to think these
+Arguments not sufficient, I will endeavour to satisfy you in the best
+manner I can; and you are a Gentleman of too good Sense to expect more.
+
+From _Cleves_ I went to NIMEGUEN, a Town in the Province of _Guelderland_,
+and the Bulwark of the Seven United Provinces, towards the Dominions of
+_Prussia_; from which 'tis but two Leagues distant. This Place stands on
+the Side of a Hill on the Banks of the _Vahal_, a River which comes out of
+the _Rhine_, and falls into the _Maese_, near the Town of _Dort_ or
+_Dordrecht_. The _French_, after eight Days Siege, took it in 1672, at the
+Time when the Republic seem'd ready to sink under the Weight of their
+Arms. Since that Time it has been very much fortify'd; so that 'tis now a
+Place of Consequence. This Town is famous for the Peace which was sign'd
+here in 1678, between _France_ and the States General; and in the next
+Year, between the Emperor, _Spain_, the Princes of _Germany_, and
+_France_. It has no remarkable Edifice. From one of its Bastions, which is
+much higher than the rest of the Fortifications, there's a Prospect of a
+great Tract of Country beyond the _Vahal_; which is one of the finest
+Views in the World, and the most agreeable Sight that _Nimeguen_ affords.
+
+After having crossed the _Vahal_ over a flying Bridge, I travelled four or
+five Leagues upon a very narrow crooked Dike, which in rainy Weather is
+very much broke. It seems as if it was made for the Destruction both of
+Coaches and Passengers; for if the Coachman be ever so little aukward, or
+the Horses skittish, a Man is in Danger of breaking his Neck, the rather,
+because the common Caravans, or Stage-Coaches in _Holland_, are so made,
+that a little Matter turns 'em topsy-turvy; so that one would imagine the
+Inventor of 'em studied to contrive a Vehicle, the most uneasy, and the
+most dangerous, that could be to the Lives of Mankind. Suppose to
+yourself, a cursed high Waggon, which you get up to by an Iron Step,
+placed between the wheels, which are hardly two Feet from one another. The
+Body of the Caravan is covered with Hoops, in Form of a Cradle, spread
+over with an Oil-cloth, and so low, that the least Shock jolts one's Head
+against the Roof. This infernal Machine, invented, no doubt, for the
+Entrance of _Proserpine_ into Hell, instead of a Thill, has a Hook, by
+which the Coachman, who is commonly drunk, guides the Horses, by placing
+one Foot on it, while be rests the other against the Crupper of one of his
+Horses, which almost touch the Caravan. No less than eight People are
+stow'd in these horrible Break-necks, which, to compleat the Abomination,
+makes such a Rattle as is perfectly stunning to all the Passengers.
+
+'Twas in one of these pretty Stage-Coaches that I came very much jaded to
+RHENEN, a little Town on an Arm of the _Rhine_, which has for a long time
+been the Residence of the Family of the unfortunate _Frederic_ Elector
+_Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_. That Prince caused a House to
+be built there, which now belongs to the King of _Great Britain_, as Heir
+to the Electress _Sophia_ his Grandmother, the Daughter of the said
+_Frederic_, by _Elizabeth_ Princess of _England_; but all the Use which
+the King makes of this House, is for the Accommodation of his Equipage in
+his Journies to and from _Hanover_.
+
+The Road from _Rhenen_ to _Utrecbt_ is like the Sands of _Libya_; I mean
+that which the Caravans take in the rainy Season; for in fine Weather
+they go through a Plain, the Soil of which is extremely clayish, and by
+consequence, not passable when it has rain'd.
+
+As disagreeable as the Country is, through which I passed, yet there are
+several fine Country Houses, of which that belonging to the Earls of
+_Athlone_, whose Ancestor was General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, and made a
+Peer of _Great Britain_ by King _William_ III. is one of the most
+considerable: But it is inferior to ZEIST, a Palace belonging to the Count
+of _Nassau_, Son of the late Mons. _d'Odyck_, distinguished in the
+Republic for his Birth and Employments, his Ability in Business, and his
+Magnificence. This House is, in my Opinion, one of the finest in the Seven
+Provinces, and has most of the Air of a Nobleman's Palace. It has fine
+Gardens, and stately Avenues. _Lewis_ XIV. resided in it at the Time when
+that Monarch, like an impetuous Torrent, came to ravage the Republic. The
+Count _de Nassau-Zeist_ had afterwards the Honour to see at the same Place
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, whose Presence Was undoubtedly more
+agreeable to him, because it was accompanied with the Peace, and because
+that Prince only drew his Sword for the Defence of the Republic, and its
+Allies.
+
+The Country Houses in general, which are situate in the Provinces of
+_Utrecht_, _Guelderland_ and _Over-yssel_, have much more the Appearance
+of Palaces than those in _Holland_; where Land is so dear, that they can
+only make Models of Houses and Gardens; which, if they were executed,
+would not want for Magnificence.
+
+The Neighbourhood of _Utrecht_ is charming: A large fine Avenue leads to
+the City, at the Entrance of which, on the Left-hand, is the Mall, which
+_Lewis_ XIV. so admir'd upon Account of its Walks, that he wish'd he
+could transport them to _Versailles_, and ordered his Troops not to cut
+down the Trees.
+
+UTRECHT, as to its Outside, seems very ancient. I fansy that the Walls of
+_Jericho_, which fell at the Sound of the dreadful Trumpets of _Israel_,
+were not unlike the Walls of this City; and its Inhabitants, probably, did
+not think them a whit stronger, because they were so much in haste to
+carry their Keys to the King of _France_, notwithstanding the Offers made
+to them by the Prince of _Orange_, to defend the Place. _Lewis_ XIV.
+entered this City with all the Pomp of a Conqueror; but he made a very
+short Stay here, which, they say, was owing to a Remark made to him, That
+in a great Part of the Town, the meaner Sort of People lived under Ground;
+and that it would be an easy Matter for those subterraneous Inhabitants to
+place Gunpowder in those Cellars, and blow them up at the time that his
+Majesty came by. If this Circumstance is true, they who possessed the King
+with this Jealousy were unacquainted with the _Dutch_, who, 'tis possible,
+might have had no Respect for the Person of the King, in a Tumult, or in a
+Battle; but when they had received him into their Town, he had nothing to
+fear, because Treachery and Dissimulation are no Parts of their Character.
+
+The Streets of _Utrecht_ are spacious and very airy, its Houses pleasant
+and well built. A great many Houses have been built here since the
+Congress for that Peace, which put an End to the War for the Succession to
+_Charles_ II. King of _Spain_. This City, next to the _Hague_, is the most
+agreeable for Persons of Quality, of whom here's a great Number, as well
+as of other Persons, who having got Fortunes by Trade, retire hither for
+the peaceable Enjoyment of what they have acquir'd.
+
+The great Church which was formerly the Metropolis, still preserves its
+Chapter, into which Persons need no other Proofs nor Vocation for
+Admittance than Money, these Prebends being bought and sold like Companies
+of Dragoons. The Court of _Rome_ always nominates the Archbishop, who
+commonly resides at _Amsterdam_. I think the Person who enjoys
+this[101]Dignity now, is a Native of this City, but 'tis probable he has
+no View to a Cardinal's Cap, he being a declared _Jansenist_. The
+_Carthusians_ who retired from _France_ under the specious Pretext of
+securing their Consciences from Oppression, are settled in his Diocese,
+where they live in two separate Convents not very far from _Utrecht_, and
+are very zealous Distributers of the Writings published in _France_, about
+the Religious Differences. They had acquired the Esteem of the
+Protestants, who did not think they differ'd very widely from their
+Communion; but since they endeavour to make the Sieur _Paris_ pass for a
+Saint, I know not whether they will not lose the good Opinion that has
+been conceiv'd of 'em. For in this Country, they have no great Value for
+these Favourites of the Court of Heaven, and much less for those who
+increase the Number of 'em. Be this as it will, 'tis allow'd by every
+body, even by the most zealous _Roman_ Catholics, that setting aside their
+Religious Sentiments, there's no Fault to be found with their Morals and
+Behaviour, and that they live as regularly as they did perhaps in the
+Convent which they have abandoned.
+
+The Town-house has nothing in it that is magnificent, at least if one may
+believe those who have seen it; for I had not the Curiosity to examine it:
+Nor is there any Edifice of Consequence in the Town. Their Dwellings are
+neat, but not large, which is the Reason that during the Congress the
+Ambassadors had very scanty Lodgings, tho' it was not for want of Money,
+insomuch that several of 'em might have purchased the Houses they lived
+in, with the Money they paid for the Rent of their Apartments, during the
+Course of their Ministerial Residence. Speaking of this Congress, puts me
+in Mind of what certain Satirical Politicians said concerning the Three
+Treaties of Peace that had been concluded successively in the Dominions of
+the Republic. _Nimeguen_, said they, signified NEIM-WEG (_Take all_),
+_Reiswick_, REIS-WEG (_Pluck up all_), and _Utrecht_, AUSSER RECHT
+(_Witbout Right_). If every Thing be fairly examin'd, all this perhaps may
+be true enough, but the Laughers would not be on the Side of the Allies.
+
+I made use of the Vessel that goes and comes Three times a Day from
+_Utrecht_ to _Amsterdam_, which is not only the most commodious, but the
+best regulated, and the cheapest Passage in _Europe_. One knows to a
+Minute when it goes off, and within one Quarter of an Hour that it gets
+into Port. If you agree for the _Rous_ or Cabin, one is alone, or with
+what Company you please. I thought the Vessel in which I came to
+_Utrecht_, so much like a moving Dungeon that I was as glad when I came
+out of it, as a Prisoner, when he is set at Liberty. The Canal which
+carried me to _Amsterdam_ presents a thousand agreeable Objects to View,
+being diversified all the Way with fine Country-houses, magnificent
+Gardens, Meadows and Villages.
+
+After having admired every Thing that proves the Wealth of the
+Inhabitants, I am arrived at AMSTERDAM, that modern _Tyre_, the Mistress
+of Commerce, the Warehouse of the World, and one of the finest, greatest,
+and most wealthy Cities in _Europe_. It contains both sacred and profane
+Edifices, which are magnificent; but at the same Time (for I speak freely)
+retains I know not what Air of the Cit, which one does not meet with in
+the Buildings of _Venice_ and _Genoa_, which are of a sublimer Taste,
+because the Nobility are the Governors. The Things which may be said to be
+truly great and noble at _Amsterdam_, are its Ramparts faced with Bricks,
+and the broad and deep Ditches with which 'tis encompassed.
+
+_Amsterdam_ is the only Town in the World which may be compared in any
+measure to _Venice_. For tho' 'tis not built as _Venice_ is, in the midst
+of the Sea, it stands as that does upon Piles. Like _Venice_ it consists
+of a vast Number of Islands, and its principal Streets have Canals, with
+the Adventage of spacious Kays at their Doors, fenc'd with Trees; whereas
+at _Venice_, the Water is only pent in by the Houses. That I take to be
+all the Resemblance there is between these two Rivals in Commerce; for as
+to the Beauty of the Structures, there is no Comparison; one _Canal
+Grande_, and one _Canal Reggio_, being worth more in this respect than all
+_Amsterdam_. There are Palaces, and here are Houses, which are neat,
+genteel and pleasant, without the Rules of Architecture, and built of
+Brick. Heretofore the _Amsterdammers_ Manner of Building was very
+extraordinary. Most of the old Houses that are yet in Being, stand upon
+Stilts, which I explain thus: The Front of the first Floor, upon the
+Ground, is commonly all Windows, which are separated by wooden Pillars
+that support all the Stone-work of the other Floors, which, happy for
+them, is very slight; for there's seldom a Wall more than two Bricks in
+Thickness, and the Ceilings are nothing but Boards, so that the People in
+the first Floor have the Pleasure to know, that every Word they say is
+overheard in the second. I don't criticize the Manner of the Distribution
+of their Rooms; tho', to be plain, their Architects know no more of this
+Matter than they do how to carry up the Chimnies, which are almost all of
+them smoaky. 'Tis true, that the Inhabitants are not very much incommoded
+by it, and that they might even do without them[102]. For the Women warm
+themselves with a Turf all Day long, which they put into a little earthen
+Pan, and this into a wooden Stove, with Holes bor'd in it, which they keep
+under their Petticoats, and sit over it, as a Hen broodeth over her
+Chicken. The Men are always within Doors, dressed in a Night-gown lined
+with Flannel, under which they are Twaddled in three or four thick
+Waistcoats: And if the Weather be cold, they also make use of such a Stove
+as the Women do, or else warm themselves in the Kitchen, where there is
+seldom Bustle enough to prevent their creeping to the Chimney-corner; and
+I would venture a Wager, that there are many substantial People here who
+don't boil the Pot above once a Week: For there's no Nation in the World
+that feeds worse than the _Dutch_, and particularly the _Amsterdammers_,
+Butter, Milk, Cheese, and Salt-fish, being their common Diet.
+
+But I have deviated from the Article I was upon, touching their Manner of
+Building. I cannot conceive how 'tis possible for Houses that are so
+slight to stand: And there are some that perfectly totter from Side to
+Side; but I had rather see a Woman dance, than a House. A great Number of
+those Houses have lately been set upright. One of those Pinacles, in Form
+of a Sugar-loaf, which is at the Top of most of the old Houses, unhappily
+fell down and kill'd three Persons that were passing along the Street:
+Whereupon the Government, out of their great Care to prevent all such
+Accidents for the future, ordered the Landlords of every House to cause
+those staggering Pyramids to be pulled down: This has had two good
+Effects; for People are not so liable to be knock'd o'the Head, and the
+Town looks handsomer. The principal Ornament of the Houses is their
+Windows, there being scarce a Country that has finer Glazing, and many of
+the Houses have Windows of polish'd Plate-glass. But in some Palaces of
+_Venice_ or _Genoa_, the Paintings and Gildings only of the Ceilings are
+worth more than the finest House in _Amsterdam_. Yet I don't deny but
+there are Houses here, in the Rearing of which no Cost has been spar'd,
+but in general they are small. There are scarce any that have above five
+Windows in Front, others have four, and the greatest Part three. The Entry
+is by Steps of black Marble or Stone. To the Houses of the common Size,
+there's a very narrow Entry pav'd with white Marble, with which the Walls
+are often fac'd, at least to a certain Height. The Apartment consists
+generally of two Rooms on a Floor, a little Court behind it, and a second
+Pile of Building, which is but one Room in Depth, and has Lights towards
+the Garden. At _Venice_ and _Genoa_, a Merchant (for I set the Nobles
+aside) will have at least an Apartment of three or four Rooms. At
+_Amsterdam_ the Furniture is neatest, and in _Italy_ the richest. Here one
+shall find a curious Piece of _Flemish_ Tapestry, a Closet of Pictures,
+fine Glass, a great deal of _China_ Ware, and curious Toys from the
+_Indies_; the Floor shall be covered with fine _Persian_ Carpets; but you
+shan't see any Furniture of Velvet embroidered with Gold, no Lustres of
+Rock-Crystal, no great Collection of Paintings, nor that Abundance of
+antique Busts, Vases and Statues of Marble and Brass. In fine, to conclude
+this long Parallel, I must tell you, that if the Palaces of _Italy_ were
+as neat as the Houses of _Amsterdam_, there would be nothing to compare to
+them; and if the Houses of _Amsterdam_ were as much neglected as those of
+_Italy_, they would be of no Manner of Account.
+
+Be a House here ever so small, there's always some Apartment in it
+uninhabited, which is the finest Part of the Building. 'Tis a Sanctuary
+whereof the upper Servant Maid of the House is the grand Priestess. She
+has so profound a Respect for this unfrequented Place that she never
+enters it without putting off her Shoes, for fear of soiling the Floor,
+which is held in so great Veneration that they pay it a Sort of Worship:
+'Tis the Residence of the Houshold Gods, and one is sure of incurring the
+Indignation both of the Mistress and the Maids, if one does not shew the
+same Veneration to their Floor as they do. Whoever enters the House, must
+first rub their Feet upon a Mat at the Door, and be sure not to spit, were
+they in Danger of being choak'd, unless they find a little Basket of Sand
+laid there for the Purpose; and if a Person should but happen to drop the
+least Thing capable of spotting the Floor, I am not sure that the
+Priestesses would not sacrifice the Delinquent to their Idol, and that we
+should not see the Revival of the Story of _Orpheus_ and the _Bacchantes_.
+There are however some particular Days in the Year when the Priestesses
+give their Masters Leave to enter these Sanctuaries, and therein to
+receive Company; but the very next Day, this Place, which in the Language
+of the Country is called _Besse-Kamer_ (i. e. _the best Room_) is wash'd
+and purify'd, as our Churches are after they have been profaned. I don't
+make Things a jot worse than they are in reality, and I am sure there are
+some Rooms that are not opened four times in a Year, unless it be to air
+the Goods. 'Tis the same with a thousand fine Things in the
+_Amsterdammers_ Possession, which they don't make use of for fear of
+spoiling them: Thus they live in the midst of Abundance, and of Wealth,
+without the Hearts to enjoy what they have. Nevertheless, within these few
+Years past, they begin to have some Taste of Life: They give into
+Equipage, Furniture, and Rural Entertainments, and their Women into Dress
+and Splendor. The old Men exclaim against new Fashions, and say the
+Republic is in a declining State, in which they resemble one of our
+Emperors, who observing that his Master of the Horse had changed the
+Cord-Traces, which had been the Fashion of his Court, into Leather Traces,
+cry'd out, That _Luxury would be the Ruin of his Family, and his
+Government_.
+
+The Government of _Amsterdam_ is in a Senate, consisting of sixty-three
+Persons, who hold their Places for Life; and when any one dies, 'tis the
+Senate that appoints his Successor: In this Body there are twelve
+Burgomasters, of whom four preside annually. They chuse three out of the
+twelve every Year, who with one of the four of the last Year, that
+continues in Office, have the Direction of Affairs. These latter, before
+they enter into their Office, are obliged to take an Oath to the senior
+Burgomasters. He who is continued from one Year to the other, has the
+Presidency for three Months, after which the others take it in their
+Turns; and they who go out of their[103]Office, are commonly employed as
+Treasurers of the City, or as Counselor-Deputies to the States of
+_Holland_, residing at the _Hague_.
+
+The Office of Burgomaster is more honourable than profitable; for 'tis
+said, their Salary is only five hundred Florins _per Annum_: But their
+Authority is considerable; for they are the chief Magistrates, and in some
+Sort the Masters of the City. They dispose of all the public Money, and
+they alone judge of what is necessary for the Safety of the Town. They are
+the Guardians of the Bank, which can only be opened in the Presence of one
+of 'em. They confer all Offices, and may therewith gratify whom they will,
+and if they please, their own Children; so that, as in _Germany_, there
+needs but a Bishop in a decay'd Family to repair its Misfortunes, so here,
+if there be but a Burgomaster in a Family, 'tis enough to make 'em all
+easy.
+
+There is also in this City a Bailiff, who is called _Hoofd-Schout_, or
+_Hoofd-Officier_, who is the same that is elsewhere called the Lieutenant
+of the Police. He has under him three Substitutes, who are called the
+_Under-Schouts_. These are they who apprehend Malefactors, which they
+often do in the midst of a Mob, only accompanied with a Couple of Archers
+who have no other Arms but Swords. Yet every one trembles at the Sight of
+'em, and two Men carry another to Prison, with more Ease than forty
+Archers can do the like at _Paris_.
+
+The Senate meets in the Stadthouse. This Fabric, so much celebrated for
+its Magnificence, and because it contains the richest Bank in the
+Universe, is really a stately Edifice; and tho' it has Defects, it may be
+ranked in the Number of the finest Buildings in _Europe_. It fronts a
+Square called the _Dam_, in the Centre of the City. The Building is almost
+a complete Quadrangle, with Pavilions at each Angle. In the middle of the
+principal Front there's an advanced Building which takes up one third of
+the whole Front. 'Tis decorated by seven Porticos, so small that they
+disfigure all this great Pile of Building; which they pretend was not
+owing to the Ignorance of the Architect, but to a political Cause: For at
+the Time that this Stadthouse was built, the Republic was but in its
+Infancy. The Populace of _Amsterdam_, a turbulent Mob, ready for any
+Mischief, were then far less submissive to their Magistrates than now; and
+they so often disturbed those Magistrates in their Deliberations, that the
+Architect chose to make the Avenues so narrow, on purpose to prevent the
+Inconveniencies of too easy an Entrance by a Crowd of People. But if this
+was his true Reason for not keeping to the Rules of Architecture, three
+great Porticos would have done as well as seven small ones: He might have
+given them due Proportion, and the Front would have been more majestic.
+But the Number Seven was the chosen Number, and it was to represent the
+Seven United Provinces, to whose Union the City of _Amsterdam_ owes its
+Enjoyment of Liberty and Commerce. Notwithstanding this Defect, 'tis
+certain that a Foreigner, tho' he will not offer to compare this
+Stadthouse to the Palace of _Versailles_, to the Escurial, or to the
+_Procuraties_ at _Venice_; and tho' when he looks on it, he may only think
+he sees a Town-house, and not the Palace of a King, or of a powerful
+State, yet he cannot behold it without Admiration, especially if he does
+but consider that every Material in this Building was brought from foreign
+Countries.
+
+The Outside of this great Fabric is all of Free-stone, extremely well put
+together; and an Order of very substantial Pilasters ranges quite round
+the whole. The Part which projects from the principal Front, is terminated
+by a Pediment, which is a grand Piece of Sculpture. It represents the City
+of _Amsterdam_, under the Figure of _Cybele_, seated in a Chair. Four
+_Naiads_, and two Sea Nymphs, present her with Crowns of Palms, and
+Laurels, and Fruit, in token of the Power and Abundance which this City
+receives by Commerce. On the other Side, _Neptune_, accompanied by the
+_Tritons_, seems approaching to pay his Homage to the Goddess, undoubtedly
+to denote the Power of this City at Sea. All this magnificent Groupe is
+extremely well executed, and very much esteemed by the Connoisseurs. A
+Dome at the Top of this Edifice has eight great open Arches all round,
+which support the Cupola; and in this Dome there's a Chime of Bells which
+the Lovers of such noisy Music say is very good Harmony.
+
+The first Room within is the Chamber of Justice, wherein the Criminals
+receive their Sentence. It has three Porticos which open into the great
+Square, from whence may be seen what passes in that Chamber. This Room is
+adorned with Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, done by excellent Hands.
+_Solomon_'s Judgment is there represented in such a grand Manner as is
+wonderful. Beyond this Chamber is the great Stair-case, which has no
+manner of Ornament, and little or no Light. It leads to the great Hall,
+which is really magnificent, but not very lightsome. It is adorned with
+Pilasters and Bas-Reliefs of white Marble, executed with infinite Art. The
+arch'd Roof, which is of Wood, and painted with Oil, is not answerable to
+the Richness of this Hall. Four great Coridors or Galleries, laid open by
+great Arches on both Sides, at the two Ends of the Hall, lead to the
+Apartments, and are adorned with white marble Pilasters two and two,
+Flowers in Bas-Relief, and Statues of a grand Disposition; and the Emblems
+with which the Gates are adorned, are all very suitable to the Business
+that is transacted in the Chamber to which they open.
+
+I shall not undertake to give you the Particulars of all these Rooms, not
+only because it would carry me too far, but because I observed nothing in
+them, except some Paintings, that is worth your Notice. The Arsenal takes
+up one intire Floor over these Chambers, but is only considerable for the
+prodigious Quantity of Arms of the modern Fashion, especially Muskets,
+which are the Manufacture of this City, and a Part of its Commerce.
+
+The ground Floor is very low, but consists of fine great Arches. Here are
+contained the Offices of the Bank, and the Prisons, from which no body
+ever yet escaped, and it is humanly impossible they should; for besides
+that the Walls are very thick, the whole is strongly barricaded both
+within and without, by iron Bars, the very Appearance of which is
+frightful. But if 'tis possible for Prisons to be agreeable, these would
+certainly be such, for they are all lightsome; the Prisoners are not so
+ill used as they are elsewhere, but are allowed proper Nourishment, and
+not suffered to Wallow in their Nastiness.
+
+The Stadthouse is the Place where all Persons are married, who are not of
+the Religion that prevails in the Country. This is a Ceremony that may be
+seen every _Sunday_, and is performed in the Presence of two Echevins, and
+a Secretary. The People that are to be married, go into a Room where the
+Magistrates are seated at a Table, and there they are entered one after
+the other without Distinction of Rank, into the Register of Marriages;
+after which they go Home with the Satisfaction of having been as well
+married as if the Ceremony had been performed by the Pope himself; nor are
+they under the least Necessity of having recourse to the Church.
+Nevertheless, all the regular People go to some Priest or Minister to
+receive the nuptial Benediction.
+
+The Treasure of the Bank is kept in a Place under Ground, which extends,
+as I am assured, a great Way under the Square of the _Dam_.
+
+Every body agrees that it is immense, but nobody knows exactly of how many
+thousand Millions it consists; and it is a Question, whether its Credit be
+not infinitely greater than its Cash; it being certain that the Public has
+such a Confidence in it that every body puts their Money into it, though
+without any Interest for it: On the contrary, it costs One hundred and
+five Florins ready Cash, to have One hundred Florins Bank. The largest
+Payments are commonly made in Bank Notes: A certain Sum is registered in
+the Bank Books, which is transferred, either in whole, or in Part, to the
+Person to whom the Payment is to be made, This is called _The Keeping an
+Account at the Bank_. It was a Correspondence of this Nature which the
+famous _John Law_ would fain have establish'd at _Paris_; and he would
+certainly have succeeded, if he had had but the Fund of the Bank of
+_Amsterdam_, and the public Confidence.
+
+They say that the Revenues of this City amount to fifty thousand Livres a
+Day, which I am apt to believe is true; for really the Taxes here are very
+considerable, the Subjects of this State paying more than those of any
+Crown whatsoever: All the Difference consists in the Distribution of the
+Taxes, and the Manner of raising them: Here they are laid equally upon the
+Rich and upon the poor, upon Citizens and upon Foreigners.
+
+The Liberty so much boasted of in these Provinces, is no more than that
+which the good People of other Countries enjoy; nevertheless, I must
+except Religion, which every one here may adapt to his own Fancy. The
+Liberty therefore consists only in the Equality of Conditions: But for a
+Boor to presume to be saucy to a Burgher, to despise the Nobility, to
+censure his Masters with Impunity, and to treat all Kings as Tyrants,
+seems to me to be a Liberty which favours very much of Libertinism. The
+_Germans_ and the _French_, who are not used to such Licentiousness in
+their own Country, easily fall into it here; and 'tis really a Wonder to
+hear them in a Coffee-house talking of Sovereigns, especially when,
+inspir'd with a Holy Zeal, they plead for the Religion, which, say they,
+is every-where oppressed, except in the Dominions of the Calvinists. They
+think every Government tyrannical, which does not allow intire Liberty of
+Conscience. 'Tis true that in this Country every one believes as he
+pleases: And here are Religions of every Kind, which nevertheless tend to
+one and the same Centre, _viz._ the acquiring of Riches, and the
+tormenting both of Body and Soul, to get an Estate, not to enjoy it, but
+to have the Pleasure of dying rich. Money, the Darling and the Idol of the
+whole World, is so adored in this City, that it stands in the stead of
+Birth, Wit, and Merit. A Man who has but a small Share of the Favours of
+Fortune, is neglected almost every-where; but here he is despised.
+
+Next to those of the prevailing Religion, the Catholics, among whom I
+include the Jansenists, are the most numerous: I have been told, they are
+above twenty thousand. They have fourteen Churches, served by different
+Orders of Friers, who as they die, the States have declared, shall be
+succeeded hereafter by none but the secular Priests who are Natives of the
+Country. They say, that this Resolution was taken, because the Monks sent
+the Money which they received for the Poor, to their Convent. What Ground
+there is for this Charge, I know not; but be it as it will, who can be
+sure that the Priests will not employ the Poors Money to enrich their own
+Families? The Catholics form a considerable Body in this State, both for
+their Number and their Wealth. It may be said that they are with the
+_Jews_ (forgive me the Parallel) one of the chief Supports of its
+Commerce; for as they cannot hold Offices, they are Merchants from Father
+to Son; tho' 'tis true, that among the Protestants who are in Offices,
+there are some who trade.
+
+What I have now said to you of our Clergy, engages me to give you some
+Account of two Calvinist Preachers here, who are very much esteemed, and
+mightily followed by those of their Communion. The one is M. _Alstein_, a
+_German_ Minister, who preaches in the Church called the _Chapel_, a Man
+of exemplary Morals, who avoiding angry Disputes and bitter Invectives,
+preaches truly Christian Morality, which reaches to the Heart. He was
+Minister of the Garison of _Potsdam_, in the Dominions of _Prussia_, when
+he was called hither by the _German_ Colony established in this City. He
+is belov'd and esteemed for his Modesty, Good-nature and Candour. This
+Testimony which I pay him of the Veneration and Esteem I have for him, is
+perfectly agreeable with the Character given of him by the Voice of the
+Public.
+
+The second Preacher is M. _Chatelain_ a _French_ Minister, with whom I
+have no Acquaintance; but he has a very great Character, and I have heard
+him preach. It were to be wish'd, that all the Clergy (our Priests will
+suffer me not to forget them) had it as much at Heart as this Minister
+has, to instruct their Audiences; and that they would preach Morality,
+which is the Life of all Religions, because it is founded upon Piety and
+Virtue. M. _Chatelain_ was Minister at the _Hague_, when he was called to
+this City, where he has the Pleasure of being as much esteem'd and
+follow'd by his Flock, as he was by that which he left.
+
+I have many other Things to acquaint you with, but upon my Word, I can
+write no more at present, my Pen falling out of my Hand. I shall resume it
+however against next Post, not so much to tell you of _Amsterdam_, as to
+assure you that no body can be more intirely yours, than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               LETTER LI.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                    _Amsterdam, Dec. 7, 1732._
+
+Since the Weather is set in for Frost, I keep my Station upon the Ice, to
+see the People slide upon Skates; a favourite Exercise of the _Dutch_, in
+which they acquit themselves with marvellous Dexterity. These Skates are a
+very little smooth Piece of Wood, like a Weaver's Shuttle, except that the
+Part on which the Heel and the Sole of the Shoe rest most, is a little
+broader. The Remainder of it is slender and crooked at the End, that the
+Iron which is underneath may the better cleave the Snow, and that they may
+with the more Ease surmount the Obstacles and little Hillocks in the Ice,
+over which they pass with great Rapidity, but not without Danger of
+breaking their Legs or Arms, and often of being drowned. The _Dutch_ are
+less exposed to these Inconveniencies than others, because they are most
+expert in the Art; for they learn to skate when they can scarce go alone.
+This is rather the Diversion of the common People, and of the lusty young
+Fellows, than of the Gentry, or of Men full-grown. These go in Sleds,
+after the Manner of our Country, which is what they call here _Narren_;
+_i. e._ to play the Fool: And indeed, to consider it duly, I think 'tis a
+right Name for it.
+
+The Place where I take the Air, is upon the River of _Amstel_, without the
+Gate of _Utrecht_, where I see several Thousands of People scudding along
+upon Skates, so fast that they seem to fly. If one of these Skaters was to
+be seen in _Swisserland_, I know not whether he would not suffer the Fate
+of _Brioche_, the Puppet-Show Man, whom the People of those Cantons burned
+for a Conjurer.
+
+These Skaters are a great Relief to me; for to tell you a Secret, I am
+quite sick of this City, which really is not a Place for a Man to live in,
+that is not concerned in Trade; and a Foreigner especially, knows not how
+to bestow himself. He can find nowhere to go but to some sorry
+Coffee-house, or melancholy Walk. In the one he is sure to be _incens'd_
+with Tobacco, and stunned with wretched Commentaries upon News-Papers or
+the Price of Pepper and Ginger; in the other he is as solitary as a
+Hermit. Their Comedies are but a poor Relief to such as don't understand
+_Dutch_, which besides is a Language that I think is not very fit for the
+Stage, any more than ours. I thought the Actors pitiful, and the Habits
+trifling; but the Decorations are fine, and the Theatre spacious and
+magnificent. I can't imagine why the Magistrates will not let _French_
+Comedies be acted in their City, where I think they would do more Good
+than Harm; for they would help to polish the Youth, and would undoubtedly
+keep them from that Temptation to Debauchery, to which Idleness, and the
+Difficulty of knowing where to spend the Evenings, naturally incline them.
+I heard _d'Argenson_, the late Keeper of the Seals say, he had observed,
+while he was Lieutenant of the Police at _Paris_, that there were more
+Disorders and Debaucheries committed in that City, during the Fortnight at
+_Easter_, when the Theatres were shut up, than were committed in four
+Months, while all Shows were kept open. I doubt not but it would be the
+same at _Amsterdam_, where there is a numerous Youth, for whom the Parents
+are blindly complaisant, and ready to kill the fatted Calf; so that being
+left to their own Devices, and having in general but few Maxims of
+Education, they run with the Stream of their Passions into all
+Extravagancies. These young Fellows, who prefer the Exercise of driving a
+Chaise before all others, set up in the mean Time for fine Gentlemen; but
+how well they perform their Part, I leave you to think.
+
+The Assemblies, or Societies, as they are here called, have nothing that
+is engaging. You see very fine Faces there, but not a Tongue moves, at
+least to a Foreigner, the very Sight of whom seems to frighten them. Here
+they drink Tea, or play a Game at Ombre, or Quadrille, and afterwards go
+in quest of a Supper.
+
+Those Societies, or Clubs, where there are no Ladies, are still worse. In
+these they smoke and drink in Abundance, talk of Trade or Politicks; and
+at such Times, woe be to those Powers that have forbid the Importation of
+_Dutch_ Toys into their Dominions. The only Remedy here against Chagrin,
+is Reading, of which a Man may have his Heartful; for _Amsterdam_ is not
+only the Centre of the Bookselling Trade, but here are Book-sellers, that
+are very ready to lend Books to such, who, like myself, cannot be at the
+Charge of a Library. I divide my Time between Reading, the Coffee-house,
+and taking the Air, the latter of which I use very moderately, one being
+obliged to go so far for it, that I think of it at least four times before
+I set out. The Canals, such as the _Heers-Gracht_, and the
+_Keizers-Gracht_, are pleasant Walks in the Town, because they are planted
+with Trees; but they are indifferently paved. Upon these two Canals, live
+Persons of the greatest Distinction, or rather those of the greatest
+Wealth in the City.
+
+One of the finest Walks in it is the Bridge, which joins the Rampart from
+one Side of the _Amstel_ to the other. 'Tis six hundred and fifty Feet in
+Length, and seventy in Breadth; and here one enjoys an admirable Prospect,
+which is the only one perhaps that can be compared with the View from
+_Pont-Royal_ at _Paris_.
+
+The Admiralty, with its Precinct, forms a little Town. 'Tis one of the
+Arsenals of the _Dutch_ Navy. Here one actually sees Seventy Men of War,
+and Materials for building a much greater Number. With the Leave of the
+_Venetians_, their Arsenal, so much boasted, is by no means comparable to
+this, with regard to Naval Stores.
+
+The Admiralty Office is so near the _India_ Company's Warehouse, that I am
+tempted to give you some Account of a House which contains such a
+Treasure. 'Tis a very great Structure of several Stories, distributed into
+divers Chambers, or Rooms, where there is a prodigious Quantity of all
+manner of Spices, of which the most common Sorts lie in Heaps as Corn does
+in our Granaries. There are also a great many other Things of Value; and
+in a Word, every Thing, be it ever so precious, that comes from the
+_Indies_. After I had walked about an Hour in this Warehouse, I was, as it
+were, embalmed with the Odour of all the different Spices, which made my
+Head ake exceedingly, or else I should have thought myself metamorphosed
+into a Mummy; but jesting apart, I fancy that were a Carcase to be
+deposited in this House, it would be free from Corruption. The _India_
+Company is properly a Republick, within the Republic itself. It arms,
+disarms, raises and disbands Officers and Soldiers, without being
+accomptable to the State. It maintains a Governor in the _Indies_, who
+lives there with more Pomp and Grandeur than his Masters do here. As a
+_Neapolitan_ Lady at _Madrid_ wish'd _Philip_ IV. _that he might one Day
+be Viceroy of_ Naples, so it might be said to a Director of the
+_East-India_ Company, _I wish you may be one Day Governor of_ Batavia.
+
+I don't give you an Account of the Houses of Correction, nor of the
+Hospitals, of which here are a great Number well founded, and well
+maintained, because I have an extraordinary Antipathy to Prisons, and
+dread the very Name of an Hospital, to which however I perceive that I am
+making great Strides; but it will be Time enough for me to give you an
+Account of those Mansions, when I have fixed my Quarters there. A
+Description of a Synagogue would not, I believe, be material to you;
+therefore I shall only acquaint you, that here are two, one for the
+_Portuguese_ Jews, which is very fine, the other for the _German_ Jews.
+They are both Jews alike, but differ in their Taste and Sentiments. The
+_Portuguese_ Jews are the handsomest of the two, for they shave their
+Beards, and some of them are very genteel. I was shew'd one the other Day,
+who was a smart young Fellow, and might, have cut a Figure among the
+Petits-Maitres. I was told, that he had been educated in our Religion, and
+that he seemed to be fond of it; but being at _Paris_, in the Retinue of
+M. ***, Ambassador of ***, he ran away from that Minister's Service, and
+came to _Amsterdam_, where he turned as staunch a Jew as if he had never
+heard the Name of Jesus Christ.
+
+Near the Jews Quarter there is the Garden of Simples. I am not Botanist
+enough to tell you what Plants it contains; but have been assured, that
+'tis one of the finest in _Europe_ for foreign Plants, which, considering
+the great Trade that is carried on by the _Dutch_, is not improbable.
+
+When I have told you, that the public Walk, which they call _The
+Plantation_, is near this Garden, and that it consists of several fine
+Rows of Trees, one of which is cut out in the Shape of a Fan, I shall
+think that I have not omitted giving you the minutest of my Remarks on the
+Inside of _Amsterdam_.
+
+The Suburbs of this great City, in which 'tis said there are about five
+hundred thousand Souls (as many as are in _Naples_) are extremely
+populous. There are above eight hundred Windmills continually at Work, in
+grinding Corn, or sawing of Timber. On the other Side of the Harbour,
+there are several Villages, of which _Sardam_ is the most considerable,
+not only for its Size, in which it surpasses many Towns, but for the
+Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are called Peasants, and pretend to be
+nothing else, tho' I can't imagine why; for they trade and make a Figure
+here upon the Exchange, like the most substantial Merchants, and don't
+apply themselves to Agriculture. I have been told, that there are above a
+thousand Windmills at _Sardam_, always employed in sawing of Timber; which
+would have been a rare Field for _Don Quixot_ to have display'd his
+Valour. That Neatness of which the _Dutch_ are so fond, is cultivated to
+the greatest Nicety in this Village; and the _Amsterdammers_ themselves
+cannot but own and admire it.
+
+The Peasants of _Sardam_ dress more like the Citizens of _Amsterdam_ than
+those of the other Villages in these Parts do, whose Apparel is of a very
+extraordinary Fashion. They wear monstrous large Trowsers, wide enough to
+make some People a whole Suit. Under this Trowser there is another Pair of
+Breeches, and perhaps a third, or else a Pair of Drawers; and to the two
+Pair of Breeches which are in Sight, they have solid Plate Buttons bigger
+than a Crown piece, They also wear four or five Waistcoats, one over the
+other, which are set so thick with silver Buttons that they perfectly
+touch one another. Over all this Cloathing they have a dark-colour'd
+Surtout or Doublet, which keeps them extremely tight downward, and
+therefore all their Waistcoats ride up, so that they seem to have Breasts
+like Women. Their Shoes are Seamen-like, or, with Reverence be it spoken,
+such as are now worn by the _French_ Petits Maitres. They have also silver
+Buckles, but so large that they are fitter for the Harness of Horses than
+for Shoes. I assure you, that if the _Romans_ had been dressed like these
+Peasants, the _Carthaginians_ would have taken a richer Booty in silver
+Buttons than they did at the Battle of _Cannae_, when they took that Heap
+of _Roman_ Rings. The Women also wear a small Equipage of Gold and Silver.
+They have gold Ear-pendants, a Bodkin of the same which fastens their
+Caps, Chains about their Necks, in Form of Pearl Necklaces, great Rings,
+and in all this there's no Expence grudged.
+
+The _Sardamers_ are so very much wedded to their ancient Habit, that a
+Father once refused to own his Son, because having been for some Years in
+_France_, he came to wait on him upon the Exchange of _Amsterdam_, in a
+Suit of Cloaths bedawb'd with gold Lace. Young _Calf_, which was the
+Peasant's Name, arriving at _Amsterdam_ about Change-Time, went thither,
+supposing he should find his Father there, in which he was not mistaken,
+and he ran to embrace him; but the Father pushing him away, ask'd him what
+he wanted, and told him that he did not think he had the Honour to be
+known to him, and that probably he was mistaken in his Man. The Son's
+calling him Father, signify'd nothing. Old _Calf_ being inexorable,
+interrupted him, saying, _I your Father! I have but one Son, who is such a
+Peasant as I am, and not a Lord, as you seem to be_. The young Fellow
+perceived that his Father took Umbrage as his Dress; therefore he went to
+a public House, sent for Cloaths after the _Sardam_ Mode, and having thus
+equipped himself, went upon the Exchange next Day, where his Father
+received him with all the Tokens of the most endearing Tenderness. After
+that Day, young _Calf_, who went in _France_ by the Name of _de Veau_
+(which is the Signification of his Name translated into _French_) always
+continued to dress in this Manner. This gave Occasion some Years ago to a
+very pleasant Adventure: A _Frenchman_ who had known M. _Calf_ at _Paris_
+by the Name of _de Veau_, coming to _Amsterdam_, inquired every-where for
+M. _de Veau_, who he said was a very rich Nobleman, of high Rank, as he
+guessed by his Train of Attendants. It was a long Time before he could
+hear any Tidings of him, because few People knew that young _Calf_ had
+frenchified his Name in foreign Countries. At length a _Frenchman_, who
+was settled at _Amsterdam_, offered the _Parisian_ to find out his Friend
+for him. For this Purpose he carried him to the Exchange; and pointing to
+M. _Calf_, _Stop_, said he to him, _there's the Man you are looking for_.
+The _Frenchman_, who did not know M. _de Veau_ in his Country Garb,
+thought that his Guide bantered him. _Parbleu Mons._ said he, _I told you
+plain enough, that the Person I want is a Nobleman, and not a Peasant_. M.
+_Calf_ hearing the Foreigner speak, and knowing him at first Sight, went
+up to him, and welcomed him upon his Arrival in _Holland_. The _Frenchman_
+knew him instantly by his Voice, but thought himself in a Trance, because
+he could not imagine how 'twas possible for a Person whom he had known a
+Nobleman in _France_, to be a Peasant in _Holland_. M. _Calf_ explained
+the Mystery of it to him however, as far as was convenient, considering
+the Place where they were, and desired his Company to _Sardam_. The
+_Frenchman_ went accordingly, and when he came thither, 'twas a fresh
+Matter of Surprise to him to see the Peasant had the House and Furniture
+of a Nobleman. M. _Calf_ shew'd him, that tho' he had laid aside the Garb,
+he had not renounced the Politeness of the _French_, entertained him with
+good Chear for several Days, and then sent him back highly delighted to
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+The Village of _Sardam_ being in North _Holland_, I cannot avoid giving
+you some Account of this Nook of that Province. Here is a perfect
+Miscellany of Meadows, Canals, Country Houses, Gardens, great Villages,
+and good Towns, an Uniformity of Beauties, which is only disagreeable by
+being continued. He that sees one Town or House, sees all, and so of the
+rest. The principal Towns of this Canton are _Horne_, _Alcmaer_, and
+_Enckbuysen_, which are all built with the same Neatness, but have nothing
+of Magnificence belonging to them, except it be the Walks at their Gates.
+All these Places are so deserted, that it would take up the _Emigrants_ of
+three or four Bishopricks to people them. Their Trade decays, _Amsterdam_
+being the Loadstone that draws all to it. This Part of the Province of
+_Holland_ is very much infested with Worms which eat into the very Stakes
+pf the Dykes. The People are in Hopes that the Frost will kill them, and
+put an End to a Calamity which is one of the worst that can befal this
+Country. It is not certain how these Insects breed, nor whether it be in
+the Sea, or in the Timber itself: One would imagine from some little
+external Specks of the infested Stakes, these Worms must breed in the Sea,
+and from thence make their Way into the Wood, no bigger than Needles,
+after which they grow as big as the Silkworm, and gnaw the Inside of the
+Timber, in such a Manner that it looks like a Honeycomb. The Spoil they
+make is said to be in those Parts only of the Stake which are under Water.
+The Damage they have done to the Dykes is very considerable, and has so
+very much alarmed the States, that they have prohibited Plays, &c. at the
+_Hague_, and ordered public Prayers. A great many People pretend that this
+Province was visited by such a Scourge fifty or sixty Years ago, and that
+it was delivered from it by a Sort of Fish, that have never been seen
+since, which devoured all those Worms. Others treat this as a Fable, and
+say, that such Insects were never known, much less the Fish by which they
+were devoured. Be this as it will, several Treatises will shortly be
+published, to shew the Origin, Nature and Progress of the present Species
+of Worms. If I am not mistaken, these Books will point out the Method, and
+the Remedies proper for destroying them; and if any of 'em are printed
+before I depart this Country, I will not fail to send them to you.
+
+For the rest, I cannot say that I have had any other Satisfaction in my
+Tour to North _Holland_ than the Gratification of Sight; for Company does
+not seem to be the Taste of the Country. I never stirred out but every
+body took me for a very odd kind of a Man: Yet I am no Petit-Maitre; nor
+is there any Thing uncommon in my Make. The Sex in this out-of-the-way
+Country is very handsome, and here are Country Lasses who have a delicate
+Complexion, not inferior to the finest Ladies. These Sylvan Beauties are
+generally fair, and have such a languishing Look, that I guess they would
+not prove unkind to any young Faun that courted them. For my own Part, who
+am too far advanced in Years to attempt an Intrigue with 'em, I content
+myself with admiring these beautiful Nymphs, whose Favours would perhaps
+rather mortify than gratify me, and which in either Case, I should not
+prefer to the Honour of your Friendship; a Thing to me of Price
+inestimable. Of this I beg the Continuance, and flatter myself, that I
+deserve it by the Attachment with which I am, _&c._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                 _Helvoetsluys, Feb. 2, 1733._
+
+Being detained in this Port by Winds that have for these six Days
+obstinately opposed my Passage to _England_, without any Prospect of their
+changing, I am at full Leisure to inform you of such Things as I have seen
+since the last Letter that I had the Honour to write to you from
+_Amsterdam_.
+
+I was carried from that City in the Boat in less than three Hours to
+HARLEM, the second of those Towns that have a Right to send Deputies to
+the Assembly of the States of the Province. It was for a long Time the
+Rival of _Amsterdam_, and actually at War with it, but could not hinder
+its Aggrandisement. While those Provinces fought for their Liberty,
+_Harlem_ was besieged, taken and plunder'd by the _Spaniards_, against
+whom the very Women bore Arms. In 1559, Pope _Paul_ IV. erected this Town
+into a Bishoprick, but it never had more than two Bishops. The Splendor of
+it is owing to its Manufactures, which consist of Silk-Stuffs, Cambrics,
+strip'd Dimities, and Thread Stockings. Its Whitsters also bring a great
+Revenue to this Town. The Florists cannot fail of being agreeably amused
+here, by reason of Flowers of such Beauty, that I have been assured a
+Tulip-Root has been sold there for fourteen hundred Florins. But the
+greatest Honour of _Harlem_ is to have given Birth to _Laurence Coster_,
+the Inventor of Printing. I am not ignorant that _Mentz_ disputes with
+_Harlem_ for the Honour of that Invention, but this being a Controversy
+which 'tis none of my Province to determine, I sincerely believe, when I
+am at _Harlem_, that _Coster_ is the Inventor of this wonderful Art,
+provided I may be at Liberty to believe the contrary when I am at _Mentz_,
+and to be uncertain of the Matter everywhere else. _Coster_'s House is to
+be seen here with the following Inscription placed Over the Gate, which
+denotes, that _Printing_, the BEST ART for perpetuating the other Arts,
+was first invented here about _Anno_ 1440.
+
+                            MEMORIAE SACRUM.
+                              TYPOGRAPHIA,
+                           ARS ARTIUM OPTIMA,
+                             CONSERVATRIX,
+                           HIC PRIMUM INVENTA
+                          CIRCA ANNUM MCCCCXL.
+
+In order to reconcile the two Towns, I believe it might be granted, that
+_Coster_ invented the Art of Cutting in Wood, which was formerly made use
+of, and that _John Faustus_ of _Mentz_ invented the Characters of Metal,
+that are used now. By this Means the two Parties will have equal Share in
+the Glory of the Invention, which after all is disputed with them by the
+_Chinese_, who prove that the Art of Printing was known to them two
+thousand Years ago.
+
+As I walked about in _Harlem_, my Guide bid me look at certain Cambrick
+Cockades trimm'd with Lace, which were tied to some of the Doors. He told
+me, that this was to shew that the Woman of the House was in Childbed;
+which procures the Husband a Protection, so that he cannot be arrested
+during six Weeks that his Wife is supposed to lye-in. What was the
+Occasion of the Grant of this Privilege, I could not learn, nor by what
+Prince it was granted.
+
+The Walks of _Harlem_, especially that in the Wood, which is at the Gates
+or the Town, would be charming, if they were not so sandy. On the other
+Hand, the Canal which leads from this Town to _Leyden_, is one of the most
+disagreeable in the Province, there being scarce any Thing upon its Banks
+but Meadows and Downs.
+
+LEYDEN is one of the largest and finest Cities in the Country. It has been
+subject, as all sublunary Things are, to great Revolutions and
+Misfortunes. The _Spaniards_ besieged it in 1573, and as they despaired of
+taking it by Force, they intended to reduce it by Famine. The Inhabitants
+were drove to the utmost Misery, till they pierced the Dykes of the
+_Maese_, and the _Issel_, by which Means all the great Meadows about
+_Leyden_ became a perfect Sea of Water, and the _Spaniards_, in Danger of
+perishing, raised the Siege: And the 3d of _October_ is annually observed
+with Rejoicings in Memory of the Deliverance of the Town upon that Day of
+the Month.
+
+The great Church, dedicated to St. _Peter_, is one of the finest
+Structures in _Holland_. The Roof is supported by three Rows of tall
+Pillars. All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy,
+and a great many have Canals. 'Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number
+of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the
+meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are
+not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay'd, since the
+Importation of Cloth from _Holland_ has been prohibited by some of its
+neighbouring States.
+
+The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually
+three great Men for Professors, _Vitriarius_ for the Civil Law,
+_Boerhaave_ for Physic, and _s'Gravesande_ for the Mathematics. The first
+is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing
+himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_
+to _Leyden_. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of _England_
+excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir'd
+than they are at _Leyden_: Nor is there any Place more proper for
+Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how
+they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here
+don't value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in
+_Germany_; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is
+also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came
+thro' this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease
+in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look
+like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much
+describ'd, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches
+here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven
+Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.
+
+The Passage from _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, whether by Land, or by the
+Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and
+fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that
+these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.
+
+The HAGUE, which is called a Village, because 'tis not inclosed, and sends
+no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless
+a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is
+certainly one of the finest in _Europe_. The States General, as well as
+those of this Province, assemble here, and 'tis the Place of Residence for
+the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of _Holland_ lived here.
+Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their
+Court here; and the _Hague_, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned
+for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more
+genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the
+other Parts of _Holland_. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does
+not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have
+something more engaging than mere Beauty.
+
+The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho' perhaps not so
+magnificent as those at _Amsterdam_; and here are some Palaces with
+Gardens.
+
+The Palace which they call _the Court_, was anciently the Residence of its
+Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric,
+consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There
+meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of _Holland_,
+the Council of Nobles, and that of the _Gecommitteer de Raden_, or Deputy
+Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their
+Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one of which is called the
+_Chamber of the Truce_, because the Truce for twelve Years was there
+concluded with _Spain_. 'Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience
+to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace,
+in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies
+of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for
+lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their
+Expence. It was built by Prince _Maurice_ of _Nassau_, after he returned
+from his Government at _Brasil_, and he adorned it with all the Rarities
+that are the Production of the _Indies_. But all these Things, as well as
+the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the
+Duke of _Marlborough_ set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the
+Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this
+House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho'
+'tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.
+
+The Palace of the _Old Court_ belonging to the King of _Prussia_, because
+it fell to _Frederic_ I. by Inheritance from King _William_ III. is a
+large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced
+Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron
+Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are
+large and commodious, and there's a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings
+by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much
+embellished by the late King of _Prussia_, who gave Leave for all People
+of Fashion to see it; but 'tis now neglected. The King's Minister, and
+the[104] Count _de Hompesch_, General of the States Cavalry, have
+Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you,
+which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things
+that are needless.
+
+The Situation of the _Hague_ is very different from that of the other
+Towns of this Province, and in its Neighbourhood there's every Thing that
+forms a fine Landskip. Every Inlet into the Place is by fine Avenues paved
+With Bricks. There is not a better Road than that which leads to
+_Scheveling_, a Village on the Sea Shore, a League from the _Hague_. 'Tis
+a strait Walk cut out of the Downs, and inclosed by double Rows of Trees
+interspersed with Pyramids of Yews. The _Delft_ Road, and that which leads
+to _Loosduinen_, one or two Leagues from the _Hague_, are also very
+beautiful. In short, go which Way one will, we always find charming Walks,
+and even within the Town there are some that are very agreeable. That
+called the _Voorbout_ is the most frequented, it being the Ring for the
+Coaches. There's a great Walk in the Middle, well gravelled and railed in,
+where in all the Summer Evenings there's very fine Company. 'Twas
+_Charles_ V. that embellished the _Hague_ with this Walk. It has
+occasioned several Disputes between Ambassadors about Precedence; but the
+most remarkable that ever happened was that between M. _de Thou_, the
+_French_ Ambassador, and M. _de Gamarre_, the Ambassador of _Spain_. These
+two Ministers were taking the Air, each in his Coach and Six, when they
+met full Butt, and neither would give Way, so that their Domestics were
+just going to Boxing; when some Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States,
+who saw what gave Occasion to the Dispute, offered the Ambassadors their
+Mediation, and proposed to both of 'em to return back at that very Instant
+by the same Way they came. M. _de Gamarre_ was very ready to comply with
+any Proposal; but M. _de Thou_ refused every one, and would by no means
+admit of an Equality betwixt himself and the Ambassador of _Spain_. The
+Gentlemen of the Assembly of the States being by this Time reinforced by
+several others, all equally desirous to pacify the Disputants, M. _de
+Beverwert_, the first of the Nobles of the Province of _Holland_, after
+having spent no less than four Hours in Debates and Conferences to no
+purpose, seeing M. _de Thou_ obstinately bent in demanding a free Passage,
+proposed at last to M. _de Gamarre_, to drive off across the Ring; and for
+doing this with the better Grace, he offered that there should be two
+Openings made in the Ring; by which Means, said he, his Excellency would
+have the Rail opened to him, and the Honour of the Right-hand. The
+_Spanish_ Ambassador accepted of the Proposal, and thereby ended the
+Dispute; which, had it not been for the Wisdom and Care of the States,
+might have been attended with fatal Consequences. Both Parties pleased
+themselves with the Fancy, that they had gained _the vain Honours of
+Precedency_; a trifling Advantage indeed, tho' in short, if there were any
+Advantage to boast of, it was with the Ambassador of _France_, because he
+obtained the Liberty of his Passage, which was all he demanded; and he
+finished his Carrier, while the _Spaniard_ returned home, perhaps because
+they had disputed so long till Night overtook them.
+
+The _French_, who were always very jealous of Precedency, have had the
+most Disputes about this Matter. The Count _d'Estrades_, the Embassador of
+_Lewis_ XIV. had one in this same _Voorbout_, with the Prince of _Orange_,
+afterwards King of _Great Britain_. Their Coaches happened to meet, and
+each of 'em aiming at the Post of Honour, they stopped over-against one
+another. The Ambassador's Servants ran from his Lodgings, and were joined
+by all his Friends; but he forbad them to proceed to Violence, for fear of
+the Misfortune which would infallibly have happened, and would have been
+very great, by reason of the Concourse of People that flock'd together for
+the Prince. The Pensionary, being informed of it, hastened to the Spot, to
+prevent any Disorder; and the Ambassador, seeing him coming, said to him,
+_I know not what the Prince's People mean; I was ignorant till now, that
+the High and Mighty States had a Sovereign_ (implying that the Ambassadors
+only give Way to Sovereigns). He sent at the same Time to the Princess
+Dowager of _Orange_, to know whether the Prince's Governor was not more to
+blame for this Misconduct, than the Prince himself? She answered, That
+'twas the King of _England_'s Business to concern himself in the Affair;
+for she imagin'd, that his _Britannic_ Majesty was bound in Interest to
+support the Dignity of his Nephew's Rank. Nevertheless, she follow'd the
+Advice of the Pensionary, and went into the Walk that was between the
+Rails. The Prince her Son alighted to shew his Respect for her, and made
+his Coach turn about, so that the Ambassador's passed into the Rank which
+he claimed to be due to him. This Minister pretended, that the Prince's
+Ancestors never had Precedence of the Ambassadors; that on the contrary,
+they went a League from the _Hague_ to receive them, on the Part of the
+States; insomuch that _Frederic-Henry_ the Prince's Grandfather, tho' upon
+Pretence of the Gout he excused himself from the Ceremony, yet he did not
+take the first Place. _Charles_ II. might perhaps murmur at it; but being
+sold to _France_, he did not stand up for his Nephew's interests.
+
+Since I am upon the Article of Ambassadors, I will now give an Account of
+such Foreign Ministers as reside at the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Fenelon_, Brigadier of the _French_ King's Armies, is his most
+Christian Majesty's Ambassador to the States General. This Minister is
+Nephew to the Great _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_. He is esteemed for
+his Modesty, his Candour, and for the Order he keeps in his Family. His
+Expence is not very considerable, and appears much less than it is to the
+Inhabitants of the _Hague_, who have not forgot what was spent among them
+by my Lord _Chesterfield_, Ambassador from _Great Britain_, one of the
+most sumptuous Noblemen in _England_, who was perfectly adored by the
+common People, and whose Absence is regretted by all Persons of
+Distinction.
+
+The Count _de Sinzendorff_, the Emperor's Plenipotentiary, has a great
+Estate in the Hereditary Dominions. He is Son-in-Law to the Great
+_Sinzendorff_, Chancellor of the Imperial Court, which is the Reason that
+he began very young to display his Talents for Business. He has been so
+successful as to re-establish the good Harmony between the Republic and
+the Emperor, which was violated by the Establishment of the _Ostend_
+Company, and to get the _Pragmatic Sanction_ guaranteed by their[105] High
+Mightinesses.
+
+The Count _de Golofskin_ is Plenipotentiary Minister of _Russia_, which
+Employment he fills with the general Approbation of all that know him. He
+is as civil and courteous as the Climate in which he was born is sharp. He
+passed his Youth at _Berlin_, and performed his Exercises at the Academy
+founded by the late King _Frederic_ I. He was afterwards several Years
+Envoy Extraordinary from the late Czar _Peter the Great_, and from the
+late Empress _Catharine_ to the Court of _Prussia_; from which Court the
+present Empress _Anne_ sent him in Quality of her Ambassador to that of
+_France_: And now he has the Management of his Sovereign's Affairs with
+the States General. He is esteemed for his Sagacity and good Nature. While
+he resided at _Berlin_, he there married the Daughter of the late Count
+_Ferassier de Dhona_, who unhappily lost his Life in the Affair of
+_Denain_, where he acted as Lieutenant-General of the Infantry in the
+Service of the States. She is a Lady whose Virtue commands Respect, and
+she has the most charming Family that is to be seen.
+
+M. _de Masch_, Envoy from the King of _Prussia_, is a very fit Person to
+manage the Interests of the King his Master in this Country, where a
+Minister ought to be civil and popular. The late King appointed him
+Governor to the Princes of _Brandenbourg Culmbach_, the eldest of whom is
+actually the Prince Regent of _Bareith_. M. _de Masch_ has inspired those
+Princes with such Sentiments as do him Honour. He was a Privy Counsellor
+of the Regency of _Cleves_, when the King sent him into this Country,
+where he has been so happy as to put an End to the long Disputes that had
+subsisted[106] between his _Prussian_ Majesty, and the Prince of _Nassau
+Orange_, concerning the Succession to the Estate of the late King
+_William_ III.
+
+M. _de Brosse_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, manages Affairs here for
+the[107]King of _Poland_, in whose Service he is a Major General. He has
+acquired very great Esteem, owing to his Talents, his Politeness, and his
+fine Understanding. He observes great Decorum in his Family; nevertheless,
+he makes a grand Appearance.
+
+M. _de Sporck_, Minister here from the King of _Great Britain_, as Elector
+of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is a Gentleman of good Extraction. He came very
+young into Business; and as he is on the Spot to take for his Pattern his
+Father-in-Law, the Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, one of the wisest
+Ministers of his Time, 'tis to be presumed he will make a great Progress.
+He lives as grand as most Envoys. His Lady is very well behaved, and does
+the Honours of her Family to Perfection.
+
+I am not acquainted with the Envoys of[108]_Sweden_ and[109]_Denmark_. M.
+_d'Ayrolles_ takes care of the Interests of the King of _Great Britain_,
+and acquits himself like a Gentleman of long Experience in Business.
+
+Don _Lewis d'Acunha_, the Plenipotentiary Minister of the King of
+_Portugal_, has been for a long Time trusted with the most important
+Embassies. He was his Majesty's second Ambassador at the Congress of
+_Utrecht_, which Employment he afterwards had in _England_, then in
+_France_, and now again here, where he makes a Figure worthy of his
+Character. He has the Reputation of being an able Negotiator, and a crafty
+Politician. He is very polite, is fond of Grandeur, and when he was
+younger, was no Enemy to Gallantry.
+
+Thus, Sir, have I given you an Account of most of the Foreign Ministers
+who reside at the _Hague_. Those of the States are not many. M. _de
+Slingeland_ the Grand Pensionary is at the Head of 'em. The consummate
+Wisdom of this Minister, who is grown grey in the Direction of the Secrets
+of this State, is acknowledged universally. The Republic deems him as one
+of its principal Pillars, and _Europe_ ranks him amongst its greatest
+Ministers. He was heretofore Secretary of the Council of State, when the
+_Hague_ was what _Rome_ was formerly under a _Sixtus_ V. the Centre of
+Politics. He succeeded the late M. _Hoornbeck_ in the Office which he now
+holds, and exercises this painful Employment with universal Approbation.
+Tho' he is well stricken in Years, and very much troubled with the Gout,
+he gives Application to Business[110].
+
+His Second is the _Gressier Fagel_, one of the greatest Genius's of the
+State, who is to be reverenced for his great Age, and respected for his
+Virtue, for his Learning, his Candour, and for that noble Freedom which
+accompanies his Words and his Actions. Being a Lover of Learning, he has a
+Library, which is a most learned Collection; and a Cabinet of Medals, and
+of the most rare antique Stones. His House is adorned with Pictures, done
+by the most able Masters, with Vessels, Urns, and all the most precious
+Things which Antiquity has left, of which there is nothing but what he
+takes a Pleasure to shew to the curious Connoisseurs. 'Tis pity that this
+Minister, who has every Quality for which the greatest Men are reverenced,
+cannot live for ever.
+
+'Tis certain that the _Hague_ contains a vast Number of worthy Persons of
+both Sexes, and this State may boast of having as great a Number of
+Subjects of known Probity, as any other Country perhaps in the World. Were
+I to name them all to you, Sir, it would be attempting a Work above my
+Capacity, and require a Volume. I may hereafter give you an Account of
+such only as make the greatest Figure at the _Hague_, either on Account of
+their Employments, or their Birth.
+
+The _Hague_ is the best Place in _Europe_ for a Foreigner to make a good
+Acquaintance with the greatest Ease, because of the many Societies or
+Assemblies, public Spectacles and Walks. If a Person appears ever so
+little in public, he is presently known. The Houses that are most open to
+Company, and where the most distinguished Persons of both Sexes at this
+Place are to be seen, are those of my Lady _Albemarle_, M. _de Keppel_,
+and the Count _de Welderen_. My Lady is Dowager to the Earl of
+_Albemarle_, General of the _Dutch_ Infantry, Colonel of the _Swiss_,
+Governor of _Tournay_, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. He was of
+the _Keppel_ Family, which has for a long time been distinguished in these
+Provinces. He had been Page to the Prince of _Orange_, who, when he came
+to be King of _Great Britain_, created him a Peer of _England_, with the
+Title of an Earl. He heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and it may be
+said, that my Lord _Albemarle_, and my Lord _Portland_, were two Noblemen
+for whom _William_ III. always professed the highest Esteem. My Lord
+_Albemarle_ maintained himself in Favour by his Assiduity, his
+Complacency, by a Fund of real Merit, and by his Care not to ask any
+Thing, but to leave every thing to the King's voluntary Grace and Favour.
+This Nobleman has left a Son, who has a Regiment in _England_. The Lady
+his Dowager is the Sister of Messieurs _Vander Duin_, Nobles of this
+Province. She lives in a very decent Manner, and is always considered as
+the first Lady of the _Hague_.
+
+M. _de Keppel_[111], the Brother of the late Earl of _Albemarle_, is a
+Lieutenant-General in the Service of the State, and Colonel of a Regiment
+of Horse. He was for some time Envoy Extraordinary from their High
+Mightinesses to the Court of _Prussia_. He lives very grand at the
+_Hague_, his Behaviour is extremely noble, and his Family will always bear
+a good Character in all the Countries of the World. Madame _de Keppel_,
+heretofore _Welderen_, does the Honours of it with all the Care possible,
+and she is extremely valued and esteemed. Her Son the Count _de Welderen_,
+Deputy of the Province of _Guelderland_, to the States General, is not
+inferior to her in Politeness. He was very young when he was admitted a
+Member of the State in the room of his Father, and was soon after
+appointed Ambassador to _England_, in order to congratulate their
+_Britannic_ Majesties on their Accession to the Throne. His Expence in
+_England_ was very splendid, but the _English_ did not so much mind the
+young Ambassador's Magnificence, as his prudent Conduct. He brought back
+with him the Applauses of their Majesties, and the Court of _England_, the
+Esteem of honest Men, and the Affection of the Citizens of _London_. At
+his Return to the _Hague_, the Count _de Welderen_ resumed his Seat in the
+Assembly of the States General. He lives still in a grand Manner, and his
+House is one of the gayest in the Country. He has a younger Brother a
+Member of the Council of State, (they call him the _Waldgrave_) who is a
+young Gentleman of great Merit.
+
+My Lady _Cadogan_, the Dowager of my Lord _Cadogan_, a trusty Friend of
+the late Duke of _Marlborough_, and his Successor in his Employments,
+keeps an Assembly every _Sunday_ Night. She is Mother to the Duchess of
+_Richmond_, who is look'd upon at the Court of _England_, as one of its
+Ornaments; and she has another Daughter, _viz._ my Lady _Margaret_, one of
+the most amiable Ladies at the _Hague_.
+
+The Countess _de Wartemberg_, the Dowager of the Prime Minister of
+_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, lives retired at the _Hague_, much after
+the same Manner as the Duchess of _Mazarine_ did at _London_. She turns
+Night into Day, and Day into Night. Her House is open to all Foreigners,
+and there is very great[112]Play. But she is not so fond as the Duchess
+of _Mazarine_ was, of Pieces of Wit, and Men of Learning. If a _St.
+Evremond_ wrote or said ever such good Things, I believe she would always
+give the Preference to a young _Alcides_.
+
+By the Account I have now given you of the Families, you perceive, Sir,
+that here are so many, that a Man cannot be at a Loss where to go. There
+is not a Day but some Assembly is held here at one House or another
+alternatively. There are no Plays performed here for the present, they
+being, as I think I have told you, prohibited by the States, by reason of
+the Worms that infest the Dykes upon the Sea Coasts of this Province. The
+Comedians continue here nevertheless, and there is an Opera which an
+_Hebrew_ Anti-Comedian has sent for from _Paris_, on Purpose to ruin the
+Comedy, when the Theatres are open. On the other hand, an Anabaptist, a
+zealous Man for the Comedy, rather than that the Opera and its Protector
+should triumph, stands up stifly for the Comedy. All the People at the
+_Hague_ are Parties in this great Quarrel; but 'tis my Opinion, that in
+order to reconcile them, the States will permit neither the one nor the
+other. This Schism would be a very copious Subject for exercising the Pens
+of the Writers of Comedy; and I am surprised that some Wit or other does
+not regale the Public with their Thoughts upon it, the rather because they
+are not here in any Danger of Persecution from the Lieutenant of the
+Police[113].
+
+You will, no doubt, think it a Phaenomenon, to find that a _Hebrew_, whom
+in _Germany_ we treat with a sort of Disdain, which perhaps is neither
+very Generous, nor very Christian, should concern himself in the
+Spectacles, and presume to force an intire Town to conform to his Taste:
+But you are to know, Sir, that the Jews are treated in this Government
+upon quite another Footing than they are elsewhere; and really, as for the
+_Portugueze_ Jews, they deserve it; for a _Texeyra_, a _Schwartzo_, a
+_Dulis_, have done such generous Actions as are worthy of the most
+virtuous Christians. They live like Noblemen, and indeed such you would
+take them to be. They are admitted into all Assemblies, and even their
+Wives appear there: They treat and receive all Persons of Distinction at
+their Houses: They relieve our Poor, contribute to our Churches, and
+differ in nothing from us, but in frequenting the Synagogue.
+
+The Nobles of the greatest Distinction in the Province, are the
+_Wassenaars_, and the _Boetselaars_.[114] The former are divided into
+several Branches, whereof that of _Obdam_ is the eldest. The Emperor
+_Charles_ III. raised this Branch to the Dignity of Count of the Empire.
+The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Grandson to the famous Admiral of that
+Name, who delivered _Copenhagen_, and in Gratitude for whose Services, the
+King of _Denmark_ conferred the Order of the Elephant upon him, which no
+Foreigner had been honour'd with before, unless he were a Prince. After
+this Admiral's Death, the same Order descended to his Son, who died a
+Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Service of
+the Republic. The present Count _d'Obdam_ is Knight of the Order of St.
+_John_, and, together with his[115] Brother, is of distinguish'd Rank in
+this Government. He spent Part of his Youth at the Court of _Berlin_,
+where his Father was Envoy Extraordinary. At that Time nobody was so brisk
+and gay; but he is thoroughly changed, and lives now very much retired,
+and applies himself wholly to Devotion and Business.
+
+Of the Blood of _Nassau Orange_, those Princes, Founders of the Republic,
+there remains no more than one young Prince, besides the Counts
+_d'Auverquerque_, _Zeist_ and _Laleck_, who are by the Left Venter. The
+Prince is Hereditary Stadtholder of _Frieseland_, Stadtholder of
+_Groningen_, Stadtholder and Captain General of the Province of
+_Guelderland_, and the Country of _Drente_. He bids fair some Day or
+other to be a worthy Possessor of the Station of the Princes whose Name he
+bears[116].
+
+_Maurice_, Count _d'Auverquerque_, is the Son of a Peer of _Great
+Britain_, who was promoted to that Dignity by King _William_ III.[117] He
+is a Major General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons. He is a
+Nobleman of distinguished Merit, and signalized himself very much in the
+last War.
+
+M. _de Zeist_, one of the richest Nobles of this Province, is Deputy of
+the Province of _Utrecht_, in which he has a great Estate.
+
+The Count _de Laleck_ is the oldest Lieutenant General of Horse in the
+Service of the States. He has a Regiment, and is Governor of _Menin_, one
+of the Barrier Towns. The three last-mentioned Counts are Cousins, and
+form three Branches. They are descended from Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_,
+and _Anne_ of _Mechlin_. My Grandmother was a Daughter of that Prince.
+
+I am still to give you an Account of M. _Hogendorp_, Receiver General of
+the State, an Office which in this Country, as well as elsewhere, is
+liable to Envy, and exposes him that exercises it, to the Censure of the
+Public. M. _Hogendorp_ has had his Share of both, for several Years: And
+tho' his Enemies have not been wanting in any Thing to ruin him, yet he
+stands his Ground, and the States approve of his Conduct. He lives with as
+great Magnificence and Splendor almost as any Subject of the Republic.
+
+In one of my former, I gave you an Account of two living Preachers at
+_Amsterdam_; and here I cannot refrain the mention of a certain Minister
+lately dead, whose Name is illustrious among those of his own Communion,
+and ours too. The Person I mean, is M. _Saurin_, who was always reckoned
+here, and in all the Provinces, one of the most eloquent Preachers, since
+the Repeal of the Edict of _Nantes_.
+
+A great Number of Epitaphs have been made for this famous Preacher; but as
+they are all good for nothing, I content myself with sending you an
+Epitaph on those very Epitaphs.
+
+                              _EPITAPHE._
+
+                        On the EPITAPHS made for
+                               M. SAURIN.
+
+      _Sous ces tisons, sans titres, sans paraphes,
+      Incognito gisent vingt Epitaphes,
+      Qu'ont arrache de leurs maigres cerveaux,
+      Incognito vingt chetifs Poetereaux;
+      Difaut vouloir par detestable rime
+      Loiier encor certain Esprit sublime,
+      Dont rien ne dis, savon qu'a ses talens,
+      Vivant trouva force contradisans.
+      Chantres grossiers du bourbeux Marecage,
+      Pour Dieu, cessez votre maudit ramage!
+      Si noblement chanter n'est votre fort,
+      Dires tont court, Le_ grand Saurin _est mort._
+
+_It may be thus Engslish'd_:
+
+                                 _i. e._
+
+      Under these Firebrands
+      lie _incognito_, no less than a
+      Score of Epitaphs, without
+      Title or Subscription, rack'd
+      _incognito_ from the sterile Brains
+      of as many paltry Poetasters,
+      pretending by detestable Doggrel
+      to extol a certain sublime
+      Genius, of which I say nothing,
+      but that whilst he was
+      alive, he met with a great
+      many who contradicted his
+      Talents. But, for God's sake,
+      ye stupid Bards of the muddy
+      Fens, leave off your cursed
+       croaking! And as you have
+      not the Gift of noble Poetry,
+      say nothing more, than that the.
+      GREAT SAURIN is dead.
+
+During my Stay at the _Hague_, I heard much Talk of one _Armand_ a
+_Frenchman_, whose extraordinary Adventures were at that Time the
+Discourse of all Companies. He did not want Understanding, but he was one
+of the oddest and most extravagant Mortals breathing. His Passions, which
+sometimes rose to a Degree of Fury, were the Cause of all his
+Misfortunes. I have been promised the History of him, and if my Friend
+keep his Word with me, I will not fail to send it to you[118].
+
+
+           _The History of_ John Barre, _called_ ARMAND.
+
+_JOHN BARRE_, a Native of the Province of _Burgundy_, appeared at
+_Amsterdam_ in 1720, by the Name of _Armand_. He was a handsome Man, in
+the Prime of his Age, and seemed to have had a good Education. He said he
+was come from _France_, because he had killed a Man in a Duel. Any other
+Man besides himself, in a Case of the like Nature, would have been at a
+terrible _Nonplus_ to find himself pursued by Justice, and forced to fly
+from his native Country, and his Friends, without Money, into a strange
+Land, of which he understood not the Language, and thrown into a great
+City, in the midst of a numerous People, where a poor Man is so hard put
+to it to make an Acquaintance. But _Armand_ was never at a Loss for
+Stratagems to relieve him. Being a bold intriguing Man, an excellent
+Tongue-pad, and a Poet into the Bargain, or at least very ready of making
+Verses, he quickly found Means to get Acquaintance. He might even have
+passed for a Man of Quality, if Necessity had not forced him to make use
+of a Talent which was a plain Discovery of the contrary; for he shewed
+himself a complete Writing-Master, and made excellent Scholars in a very
+little Time.
+
+With this Resource, _Armand_ might have lived very happy; but the Violence
+of his Temper, and his satirical Humour, made him quickly lose his
+Patrons and best Friends. Besides these Defects, of which he was beyond
+all measure guilty, he was suspicious, haughty, self-will'd beyond
+Comparison, fantastical in every Part of his Behaviour, and an extravagant
+Admirer of his own Productions; so that a Person was sure of being thought
+the worst Enemy he had, if he did not applaud every thing he did; and
+'twas enough to put him into a Fury, if one did not think as well of his
+Verses, as he did himself. Two or three Passages only are sufficient to
+demonstrate this to be true.
+
+He lodged at the House of a Burgher, who had so great an Opinion of him,
+that he thought himself happy in having such Opportunities of Familiarity
+with a Man who had won his Heart by his Wit and his Behaviour. As they
+often eat and drank together, _Armand_ invited his Landlord one Day with
+all his Family and some Relations to a Supper, when, according to his
+usual Way, he had provided a magnificent Repast. When they were seated at
+Table, a Lady of the Company thought fit to call for a particular Sort of
+Bread, which she had been used to eat; whereupon the Landlord immediately
+sent out of the Room for some; which _Armand_ perceiving, and mistrusting
+that they thought he had not provided Bread enough, he rose nastily from
+Table, and went out, but came back again in a Moment, with a Basket full
+of Bread, which he turned topsy-turvy upon the Table: And as if this Piece
+of Rudeness was not enough, he ran out of the House like a Madman, and
+spent the rest of the Evening in walking up and down, at a great Rate,
+before his Door.
+
+Having heard, that M. _P----_, Agent for the Naval Affairs of _France_ at
+_Rotterdam_, made Verses in a very pretty Manner; he went by the
+Inspiration of _Apollo_, to pay him a Visit; and after having made him a
+Compliment on his Quality of Poet, he presented him some Verses of his own
+making, of which he earnestly desired that he would give him his Opinion.
+M. _P----_, who was not so fond of Flattery as _Armand_, made him Answer,
+That he had been misinformed; that he was far from being a good Judge of
+Poetry, and therefore hoped he would not look upon him in that Light.
+_Armand_ took his Answer for a downright Affront, and retired bluntly from
+him, not without abusing him. Nor did Mr. _C----r_, to whom he paid a
+Visit for the same Purpose, fare a whit better; and to be revenged of both
+those Gentlemen, he wrote an Epigram against them, which he pasted up one
+_Sunday_ at the Door of the _French_ Church.
+
+_Armand_ being disgusted with the Reception he met with from the Wits at
+_Rotterdam_, had recourse to the Merchants. He went to see M. _C----t_, a
+Person of known Probity, either to present his Verses to him, or to offer
+him his Service, in Quality of a Writing-Master. As M. _C----t_ was a
+little hard of Hearing, he thought it proper to apprize our Poet of it in
+the first Place; but he, imagining that 'twas only a Pretence to dismiss
+him, turned his Back upon him, and went away very much incensed at the
+Affront which he thought he had received. He had even the Rashness to fix
+up a very offensive Paper some Days after, at the Exchange, to tarnish the
+honest Man's Reputation; and the same being immediately torn down by M.
+_C----t_'s Friends, _Armand_, as soon as he heard of it, put up another,
+even more insulting than the former. M. _C----t_, to prevent his being
+again exposed to such Insults, carried his Complaints to the chief
+Magistrate of _Rotterdam_, who summoned the Author of the Advertisement
+to appear before him. _Armand_ obeyed the Writ, and pleaded in his own
+Defence, that being a Foreigner, he did not know he had done any thing
+that was prohibited by the Laws of the Country; but that having been
+lately informed of the contrary, he was willing to make the Person injured
+any Amends that should be thought proper, and promised at the same Time to
+depart the City forthwith. The Magistrate put up with his Reasons, and
+only insisted, on the Performance of his Promise. Therefore he left the
+City, and set out to his former Quarters at _Amsterdam_.
+
+The ill Success of his Verses was so far from abating his versifying
+Humour, that his Passion for Poetry was only become the stronger. At his
+Return to _Amsterdam_, he began to write Satires against his Enemies at
+_Rotterdam_, whom he accused of having ruined all his Projects. Then he
+undertook to turn the tender Amours of _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_ into
+Burlesque Verse. This Piece, full of Obscenities, and of satirical Lashes
+of his Enemies, quickly ran thro' all the Coffee-houses; and when he
+thought he had put the finishing Stroke to it, he met with a Bookseller,
+who was willing to undertake the Printing of it, tho' it had been despised
+by all good Judges.
+
+While this Work was printing, _Armand_ contracted a Friendship with the
+Count _de Bucquoy_, so well known for his Adventures and Extravagances.
+This Count too pretended to write Verses, and was as great a Rattle as
+_Armand_. Their Resemblance of each other so much in Temper, was judged at
+first to be such a Cement as would have consolidated their Friendship for
+a long Time: But a too great Freedom taken by the Count embroiled them
+implacably, and gave Rise to a Scene which had like to have been tragical.
+The Count, who was not yet perfectly acquainted with his Friend's
+Blind-side, took it into his Head one Day, as he was in _Armand_'s
+Chamber, to make a Criticism upon his Poetry, which was a little too
+severe. _Armand_, to whom nobody had ever presumed before to talk at that
+Rate, was in a furious Passion, and called his Censor an impudent Fool,
+and a Fortune-Hunter. At last the two Poets fell to Blows; but _Armand_
+being the strongest Man, he forced the Count out of his Chamber, kick'd
+him down Stairs, and so drove him into the Street.
+
+We proceed now to that fatal Accident of _Armand_'s Life, which was the
+Cause of all his Misfortunes, and brought him at last to the Scaffold.
+_Armand_ had contracted a Friendship of a long standing, with a Person of
+_Bayonne_, one _B----_, a young Fellow, who tho' destitute of a Fortune,
+had been so lucky as to marry a very rich Heiress. At the Time when the
+Public believed there was the strictest Union subsisting betwixt them,
+they were strangely surprized to hear that _B----_ had informed against
+his Friend, for a horrible Outrage; and that upon this Accusation _Armand_
+was arrested, and committed to Prison. _B----_ pretended that being one
+Day in _Armand_'s Chamber, _Armand_ shut the Door upon him, and forced
+him, with a Dagger at his Throat, to sign a Bond for a thousand Ducats.
+_Armand_'s general Character was enough to condemn him; whereas _B----_,
+on the contrary, passed for a young Man of an unblameable Behaviour; but,
+to his Misfortune, the Affair was so circumstanced, that it could not be
+duly prov'd; for, instead of calling out for Help, at least, as he went
+out of the Room, he retired without saying one Word, and did not so much
+as go and make his Complaint till two Days after: But for want of direct
+Evidence against the Prisoner, he caused Inquiry to be made into his Life
+and Conversation, and discovered, that _Armand_ was but a borrowed Name,
+and that his true one was _John Barre_; that he had a Wife and four
+Children; that he had been Receiver of the Salt-Office at _Vezelay_ in
+_Burgundy_; in short, that he had kill'd his Brother-in-Law in the
+Country, with a Fowling-Piece; and that having fled for it, he was
+outlaw'd and condemn'd to be hang'd.
+
+When _Armand_ appear'd before the Judges, he fairly own'd what his
+Accusers had alledg'd against him, with regard to his Name, the Place of
+his Residence, and the Cause of his Flight; but he deny'd his having
+murder'd his Brother-in-Law, tho' he confessed that he had kill'd him in
+his own Defence. As what he had done in _France_, was quite out of the
+Question; the Judges were only for adhering to the Point in hand. _Armand_
+said, that _B----_ had of his own Accord given him a Bond for a thousand
+Ducats, in Acknowledgment for the Service he had done him, in lending him
+some Money, and promoting his Marriage. He pleaded his own Cause very
+courageously, without the least Trembling or Self-Contradiction. _B----_,
+on the contrary, seemed to falter in every thing that he said, which made
+it suspected by some, that he had only charg'd _Armand_, in order to have
+a Pretext for not paying the Sum that he had promised him. Yet others,
+with more Probability, ascribed _B----_'s Faint-heartedness upon this
+Occasion to his natural Timorousness, and to the Confusion into which an
+Accusation of this Nature, laid without any Proofs to support it, must
+needs cast him.
+
+_Armand_ being very urgent for an Issue of the Affair, the Judges, who
+found nothing that could support _B----_'s Pretensions, passed a Sentence,
+Whereby the latter was to pay the thousand Ducats, and the Defendant was
+to be set at Liberty, after giving Security for the said Sum, in case of
+an Appeal to the Court of _Holland_, saving to himself the Liberty of
+prosecuting his Adversary for Costs, Damages, Interest, and Reparation of
+Honour. _B----_ did not fail to appeal from that Sentence to the Court, as
+did like wise _Armand_, who having given the Security required, and
+received the thousand Ducats, shews himself thro' the whole Town, with a
+long Beard, which he suffered to grow in Prison, and which he swore should
+not be taken off till he had carried his Cause at the Court.
+
+In order to hasten the Decision of the Affair, he repaired to the _Hague_,
+where the Court at length passed a Sentence, which confirmed that of
+_Amsterdam_; and then he sued for Repair of Honour, and for Damages and
+Interests. _B----_ finding himself by this Means cast in all his Demands,
+and fearing the Consequences of the Law-Suit, thought fit to set his
+Affairs in Order, and withdrew to _France_. The Court immediately clapp'd
+a Seal upon his Effects, summon'd him three times to appear, and 'tis
+probable that he would have been condemned upon an Outlawry, if _Armand_'s
+Misbehaviour had not put a sudden Stop to the Courte of Justice. The
+Occasion of this Incident was as follows:
+
+_Armand_ was so impatient for the Issue of his Process, that he went every
+Day to teaze his Judges, who sometimes were not at Leisure to grant him
+Audience. Upon a certain Day, as he came to the Door of the
+Attorney-General, one of the Domestics told him, his Master was not at
+home; and the Man was going to shut the Door against him, when _Armand_
+said, _I know the contrary, and must needs speak with him_. Upon this they
+fell to abusing one another, when _Armand_, losing all Patience, struck
+the Domestic several Blows, and put the whole House in an Alarm, for which
+he was carried to Prison; from whence however he might have had a speedy
+Deliverance, if he would but have confessed his Fault, and made the
+Attorney-General proper Satisfaction: But instead of doing this, he
+behaved to Mr. Attorney in a strange Manner, and threatened to be revenged
+of him. But he paid dear for his Insolence, and was sentenced to lie in
+Prison twelve Years. He remained there till 1734, when the Court thought
+fit to remove him to another Town, till the Expiration of the Term
+mentioned in the Sentence. _Armand_ being acquainted with this Resolution,
+imagined, no doubt, that he was now to be treated with more Severity than
+ever, and perhaps that he should be privately dispatched; and from that
+Time he had no Command of himself. He formed a Design to murder the
+Archers when they came to meddle with him, or at least to prevent their
+seizing him; and for this Purpose he had taken one of the Bed-posts, which
+he not only armed with Nails, but fastened the Blade of a Penknife at one
+End of it. Being thus prepared for his Defence, on the Day appointed for
+his Removal; two Archers came to take him, of whom he ripp'd up the Guts
+of one, and broke two Ribs of the other. After this, none of the Archers
+durst venture to come near him, till the following Stratagem was thought
+of, by which they effectually quelled him. Two Archers were ordered to
+make each a Hole in the Wall of the Prison, and at the very Instant when
+_Armand_ was peeping through one of them, to examine the Cause of it, a
+Pistol was discharg'd in his Face, loaded with Sand, which put his Eyes,
+Tongue and Face into such an Agony, that he was not able to defend
+himself, but surrendered, and begged Quarter. At the same Time he was
+seized, and clapped in Irons. When he was under Examination, he confessed,
+that his Design was to murder any one that offered to remove him; and that
+he would do it again, if it were in his Power; which Circumstance was such
+an Aggravation of his Crime, that he was condemned to lose his Head.
+
+The View of approaching Death was so far from being shocking to him, that
+he seemed perfectly unconcerned. But what was very observable in this
+unaccountable Man, was that the dreadful Prospect of the infamous Death he
+had so justly deserved, was so far from engrossing his Thoughts, that it
+did not in the least abate the Fondness he had always discovered for his
+Verses; so that at the very Time when a Minister was preparing him for
+Eternity, he interrupted him short, by telling him, _Sir, Here are some
+Verses of my own composing; I desire you would let me read them to you. I
+always loved to divert myself with Works of this Sort_. An Attorney, who
+was present at the same Time, performing the Office of a Comforter, seemed
+to be shock'd at the Reading of a Composition so unsuitable to one in such
+Circumstances; but _Armand_, looking on him with a very angry Countenance,
+told him in plain Terms, That he was an Ass; and that he wondered how a
+Man of his Profession, an Attorney, at constant Variance with Heaven, and
+for ever and ever accursed, should take it into his Head to turn
+Comforter, and pretend to make Peace between God and Man.
+
+The Day of Execution being[119] come, he was carried before the Judges to
+hear Sentence of Death passed upon him: But they had scarce begun to
+pronounce it, when he grew strangely outrageous, and said, 'twas unjust
+to read his Sentence to him in a Language which he did not understand. It
+was to no Purpose that they told him, it should be explained to him in
+_French_; for he still rav'd on in the same Strain; so that they were
+obliged to stop his Mouth with a Handkerchief, which they held tight
+behind, by both Ends. However, upon his making a Sign that it strain'd him
+too much, they slacken'd it, and then he promised, that if they would take
+it quite off, he would keep a profound Silence. He was attended to the
+Place of Execution by a Minister, and saluted such of his Acquaintance as
+he saw mixed in the Crowd, with a Smile. When he was on the Scaffold, and
+fixed his Eyes on the Gallows, he turned pale, saying, that he had been
+promised different Treatment, and that he did not think he should be
+turned out of the World in the Manner for which he saw that Preparation.
+They encouraged him, by telling him, that he should only have his Head cut
+off, if he did not use Violence; but that if he did, he should be hanged,
+and hoisted up to the Gallows by a Pully, there for that Purpose. He made
+Answer, that he did not care to swing out of the World by a Halter. He
+then asked the Executioner, if he was perfect in his Business; to which he
+answered in the Affirmative, adding, That he had by his Dexterity made
+sixteen Heads leap already, with very good Success, and that he hoped his
+would be the seventeenth to do him Honour. Then _Armand_ demanded where
+the Sword was, and the Executioner told him, that it should be ready at
+the Time. At last the fatal Moment being come, he fell on his Knees, and
+as soon as his Eyes were blinded, he had his Head struck off at one Blow.
+
+I have nothing particular to tell you of the Palace at _Honslaerdyck_, and
+of the[120] _House in the Wood_, which belong to the King of _Prussia_,
+because they are neither of 'em what they were formerly. They are running
+so to Decay, that shortly they will not deserve the Mention. As I passed
+to _Honslaerdyck_, I went thro' the Village of _Loosduinen_, where I saw
+in a Church, the Basin, in which, 'tis said, were baptized the three
+hundred and sixty-five Children, of which a Countess of _Holland_ was
+delivered at one[121] Birth, in Pursuance of the Wish, or rather Curse of
+a poor Woman, who having a Charge of Children, and coming to beg Alms of
+her, was not only denied, but rebuked for having so many Children;
+whereupon she wished, that the Countess, who was then pregnant, might be
+brought to Bed of as many Children as there were Days in the Year; which
+happened accordingly. This remarkable Event is set forth in a Picture
+carefully preserved in the Church.
+
+The Palace of[122] _Ryswic_, where the Peace was signed in 1697, being in
+no better Condition than that of _Honslaerdyck_, I did not think fit to
+strike out of the fine Road to DELFT, to go and see it. This Town, which
+is a League from the _Hague_, has nothing remarkable to be view'd, besides
+the Tomb of _William_ I. Prince of _Orange_, who was assassinated at
+_Delft_, in 1584, by _Balthasar Gerard_, of the _Franche Comte_. The
+Republic which caused this _Mausoleum_ to be erected, spar'd no Cost to
+leave Posterity a Monument worthy of its Founders, and of their Gratitude
+for the signal Services which had been done them by that Hero. The Arsenal
+for the Land Service of this State, is at _Delft_, and there are few in
+_Europe_ that are better furnished, or kept more in Order. This Town
+drives a great Trade in earthen Ware. As it is at the same Distance from
+_Ryswic_ as the _Hague_, the Ambassadors of _France_ resided here during
+the Congress. 'Tis now inhabited by several People, who either from being
+weary of the World, or by Reason of Misfortunes, have chose Retirement.
+From hence you will imagine, 'tis not a very gay Place, so that I made no
+Stay here, nor no Acquaintance.
+
+ROTTERDAM, three Leagues from _Delft_, is by much the most populous Place,
+and is only inferior to _Amsterdam_, on Account of its Commerce. Its
+Situation on the _Maese_, six Leagues from the Sea, gives it a
+Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_, and the neighbouring
+Provinces, both by means of that River, and several Canals and Rivers that
+fall into it. Its greatest Trade is with _England_ and _France_, and here
+are three _English_ Churches, _viz._ One that is Episcopal, or of the
+Church of _England_ by Law establish'd, one _Presbyterian_, and one
+_Scots_. As to us Catholics, we have several Churches here in Chambers,
+and the Jews have a neat Synagogue.
+
+The Statue of _Erasmus_, the Restorer of the _Latin_ Tongue, which is
+placed in the Market-place, is altogether plain. This learned Man is
+represented in the Habit of a Doctor, holding a Book in his Hand. The
+Pedestal is plainly decorated with a _Latin_ Inscription, as is the House
+where he was born, which is preserved just as it was then, and is a very
+small and mean Building. 'Tis said, that on the same Square where
+_Erasmus_'s Statue stands, the Magistrates intend to erect a Stadthouse,
+of which they are really in great Need, that which they have being a very
+sorry one. If this Project takes, it were to be wished that they may
+employ a more able Architect, and a more diligent one than they have made
+use of in building an Exchange, which has been a long Time begun, and is
+but half finish'd yet. 'Tis true, that as it is, 'tis too large for the
+Number of Merchants that meet in it; but after all, 'tis amazing that a
+City, which has the Reputation of being wealthy, should let one of its
+principal Edifices stand unfinish'd.
+
+There are some magnificent Houses in this Town, but its greatest Ornament
+is its Canals, broad and deep enough for the Entrance of Shipping, which
+is a great Convenience to its Trade. I know not how sociable the People
+are at _Rotterdam_; for tho' I have gone through it several times, I never
+stay'd long enough there to make any Acquaintance in it. I always took the
+Air for most part upon the fine Kay that runs along the _Maese_, which is
+beautified with a pleasant Row of Trees on one Side, and noble Houses on
+the other.
+
+From _Rotterdam_ I went thro' _Maeslandsluys_ to the BRILLE, a well
+fortified Town upon the _Maese_, near the Mouth of that River. This Town
+is famous in the History of the _Netherlands_, because in the Year 1572,
+_William de Lumai_, Count _de la Marck_, and some of his Confederates, who
+went out to Sea, to avoid falling into the Hands of the Duke of _Alva_,
+took it by Surprize, and there laid the first Foundations of the Liberty
+of the United Provinces.
+
+When I left the _Brille_, I came to HELVOETSLUYS, the saddest Place in all
+_Holland_. The Winds, which have been boisterous for some Days, hinder the
+Packet-Boat and me from setting out for _England_. In the mean time, I am
+very ill here. I am cramm'd twice a Day with boil'd Ducks, roasted Ducks,
+and others tossed up with a high Ragou, and yet I am ask'd if I will not
+please to have more Seasoning. Perhaps it was this Town only that a
+certain _Frenchman_ had seen, when he said that he had taken Notice of but
+three Things in _Holland_, and they began all three with the Syllable Ca,
+_viz._ _Canals_, _Canards_ (Ducks), and _Canaille_, _i. e._ Mob; for
+certainly there are other Things to be seen in the rest of Holland, where
+there are as many genteel People as in any Country in the World. Nay, I
+dare affirm, that a certain Candour prevails here, which is perhaps not so
+general elsewhere. 'Tis rare for a _Dutchman_ to know the Arts of Tricking
+and Cheating, and he is of a friendly Disposition, if his Purse be out of
+the Question. If they were not so much in Love with their Money, there
+would be as few Faults to find with this Nation as any. I could like to
+live with 'em very well. When one treats them with Civility, one may do
+any thing with 'em. And it was a Saying of the Emperor _Charles_ V. _You
+must give the_ Dutch _good Words, leave 'em the Shadow of Liberty, but
+make them pay well for it_.
+
+Be these People as much as they will for their own Interest, they are
+charitable, and would have every one live. They have not perhaps that gay
+Wit, which is of all Things so taking; but then they have good Sense. I
+have often taken a Place in the Boats, on purpose to hear what was said
+there; and have been surprised to find the common People talk of Trade, of
+the Interests of the State, and of other Countries, of the Manners of
+different People, of the History of their own Country, and in short, of a
+thousand other Things, with more Justness, perhaps, than a great many
+Epigrammatists, Stanza-makers, and Rhymesters could do elsewhere.
+
+For the rest, this Country is as charming in some Things, as it is
+disagreeable in others. 'Tis certain, that the People are now and then too
+insolent; yet a _Dutchman_ does not care to be the first to give an
+Affront; and unless a Foreigner provokes him by his Pride, or his
+Pertness, he will indulge himself in his Phlegm.
+
+I can't imagine why Foreigners take a Pleasure to run down _Holland_, as a
+Country where they have been skinn'd. This might have been the Case with
+'em in such a Hole as _Helvoetsluys_, or else at _Rotterdam_, when one
+_Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee, kept the Sign there of the Marshal _de
+Turenne_; but 'tis not so in a good Town, where every Foreigner, I mean
+such as are willing to be sociable, and to eat at the Landlord's Table,
+know what they have for their Money. The Ordinary is settled, Wine,
+Lodging, and every Thing at a certain Price. Suppers are the only Meals
+that plunge deep in a Man's Purse, of which a Foreigner must be cautious.
+As to Carriages, either by Land or Water, the Fare is fixed; and 'tis
+impossible for a Man to be cheated, unless it be in frosty Weather, when
+'tis certain one is at the Mercy both of the Watermen and Coachmen.
+
+'Tis wrong also for some Foreigners to cry out, as they do, against
+Justice, which I find more impartial here than elsewhere. But it does not
+always act with the Vivacity which a Foreigner would wish for, who often
+has neither the Time, nor the Means, nor the Inclination to wait for it.
+He then finds fault with Justice, when he ought rather to blame the
+Situation of his Affairs.
+
+I fear that you will be angry with me for having abused your Attention by
+this long Letter, which I now conclude, by assuring you, that nobody can
+be more intirely than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIII.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                     _London, April 12, 1733._
+
+'Tis not possible for me to be insensible how greatly I am obliged to you
+for that Uneasiness which you seem to be under, till you can hear of my
+Arrival in some safe Harbour of this Kingdom, tho' 'tis no more than what
+I expected from such a Friend as you. I should have prevented your Anxiety
+upon this Score, if I had not thought it proper to take a little View of
+this Country, before I wrote one Word to you about it; and now I flatter
+myself that I am able to satisfy your Curiosity.
+
+I had one of the most favourable Passages that could be; for in less than
+eighteen Hours, I came from _Helvoetsluys_ to _Harwich_, which is the
+Harbour for the Packet-Boats that pass betwixt this Kingdom and _Holland_.
+
+_Harwich_ not seeming to me to be worth a Traveller's Notice, I only
+stopped to hire Horses, and came with all Speed to London. _That City_,
+which for its Extent, the Number of its Inhabitants, and their Wealth, may
+pass, not only for the Capital of a powerful Kingdom, but even for the
+Capital of _Europe_: _That City_, where True Liberty bears Rule; where the
+Arts and Sciences are cultivated and protected; where the Inhabitants
+enjoy the Goods of Fortune without vain Ostentation; where Merit is
+considered, and Birth highly valued, when 'tis accompanied with Virtue:
+_That City_, in fine, where are still to be found those _Roman_ Souls,
+which other Nations admire, but know not how to imitate.
+
+Yet _London_, with all the Attributes I have now given it, with its
+magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane, cannot be rank'd among
+the finest Cities; for many of its Streets being dirty and ill-paved, its
+Houses of Brick, not very high, nor adorn'd with Architecture, but
+blacken'd with the unmerciful Smoke of Coal-fires, gives it a dark Hue,
+which renders it far less agreeable than it would be otherwise.
+
+The Riches of _London_, if not of all _England_, are owing to the
+_Thames_, and the Citizens set more Value by this River, than by any other
+Advantage that they enjoy: Of this a certain old Alderman had the Courage
+to give King _Charles_ II. a convincing Proof, at a Time when that Monarch
+was so extremely angry with the City of _London_, that when the Lord Mayor
+and Aldermen went to Court, with a View to pacify him, he exclaimed
+bitterly against them, and told 'em, that he knew how to make them feel
+the whole Weight of his Resentment, and that he would for that End remove
+his Court to _Oxford_. At this the old Alderman, who pretended to be hard
+of Hearing, said to a Nobleman that was present at the Audience, loud
+enough to be over-heard by the King, _What says his Majesty_, my Lord?
+_Will he in his Wrath take the_ Thames _from us?_ Meaning thereby, that
+since the King could not take that River from the City, the Inhabitants
+would not be sorry for his going to _Oxford_. Indeed, in all my Travels I
+never saw a finer Sight than this River, from its Mouth to
+_London_-Bridge: For besides its being continually covered with Ships,
+Barges, Boats, &c. going up and down with the Tide, its Banks are adorned
+with a Variety of fine Scenes, such as Towns, Villages, and
+Country-Houses. Among others, there's the great and magnificent Hospital
+of _Greenwich_, founded in the Reign of _Charles_ II. for disabled Seamen,
+or the Invalids of the Navy. Tho' this Structure is not yet finish'd, it
+may be rank'd amongst the most considerable in _Europe_, and is not
+inferior in Grandeur to many Royal Palaces. Its Situation also is so
+charming, that were it for that alone, it were worth while to take a Turn
+on Purpose to see it.
+
+_London_ stands on the Left-side of the River, where it forms a Crescent.
+The famous Bridge upon which Queen _Elizabeth_ caused the Head of the Earl
+of _Essex_ to be exposed, after having flatter'd him that he should one
+Day be a Partner in her Throne, is eight hundred Feet long, and sixty
+broad; but the Prospect of the River is stopp'd by Houses on both Sides,
+which are neither fine nor lofty.
+
+St. _Paul_'s Church, the Cathedral of _London_, is, next to St. _Peter_'s
+at _Rome_, the greatest and most stately Temple in _Europe;_ and I even
+question, whether it would not be more magnificent than St. _Peter_'s, if
+it had such a Square or Colonnade before it, as that has; but I mean only
+the Outside of it; for as to the Inside, they are not to be compar'd. The
+principal Front of St. _Paul_'s is of that sort of Architecture which the
+old _Romans_, those Masters in the Art of Building, would not perhaps have
+thought unworthy of their Time; tho' 'tis certain this beautiful Front is
+render'd the less majestic by two little Towers or Steeples of a very
+_Gothic_ Taste, which are placed upon the two Angles of the Building. This
+whole Fabric stands by itself, and is built in the Form of a Cross, with
+a great Dome in the middle. The Entrance to it is by three grand Porticos
+on the North, South, and West. Opposite to the principal Front there's an
+Area, encompass'd with an Iron Palisado, in the midst of which is a white
+marble Statue of Queen _Anne_, in whose Reign this Church was finish'd;
+which was begun so long ago as after the Great Fire, in the Reign of
+_Charles_ II. The Queen is there represented standing with all her
+Regalia. She holds in her Right hand a Sceptre; but 'tis so much like a
+Wax Taper, that one would almost swear she was performing an[123] _Amende
+honorable_: And really, this Statue is unworthy of the Queen whom it
+represents; of the Church before which it stands, and of the City of
+_London_, by whose Order 'twas erected. All the Church is of very white
+Stone, which the Smoke, that Bane of _London_, has rendered black on one
+Side. The Inside of it is as plain as the Outside is magnificent. The Dome
+only is painted of an _Ash_ Colour. The Choir (for the Church of _England_
+retains the Use of Choirs) is separated from the Nave, by a Wall of just
+such a Height as to support the Organs, which by this Means serve the
+Choir and the Nave of the Church alike, but disfigure both. The Seats, or
+Stalls of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, when they assist at _Te Deum_, are
+of Wood, and built like those of the Canons in our Churches. The
+subterraneous Parts are very magnificent, and contain Vaults, in which
+are interred such People as they belong to.
+
+The famous Monument erected in Memory of that sad Conflagration which
+consumed one Third of the City, in the Reign of King _Charles_ II. is a
+very lofty Pillar of the _Doric_ Order, fluted, and has a Stair-case in
+the Inside of it, which goes up to a Platform at the Top, from whence
+there's a Prospect of the whole City, and a great many fine Scenes.
+
+The _Royal-Exchange_, where the Merchants meet at One o'Clock every Day,
+is a large square Building of Free-stone. The grand Portico is adorned
+with Columns, and has a Tower on the Top, with Chimes in it. The Inside of
+it consists of a Court surrounded with Piazzas, over which are placed the
+Statues of the Kings that have reigned in _England_; which are of
+Free-stone, and all done by bad Hands. The Statue of King _Charles_ II. in
+whose Reign this Edifice was built, stands in the midst of this Court, and
+is of white Marble, representing the King in the Habit of a _Roman_
+Emperor. This is not one of the worst Statues in _London_; where indeed
+Sculpture is of all Arts the least cultivated; but why, I can't conceive;
+since most of the _English_ Nobility have been in _Italy_, and have there
+acquired a Taste for what is fine and curious.
+
+The famous Tower of _London_, which is, as it were, the Citadel of this
+Metropolis, stands on the Bank of the _Thames_, at the Extremity of the
+City, going down the River. It contains several Buildings, but without
+Uniformity. Here are kept the Jewels of the Crown, and the Crown itself,
+Lions, and other outlandish Creatures, and the Arsenal of Arms; and in
+this Tower are confined certain Prisoners of State; but thro' good
+Fortune, the Reign of King _George_ II. now upon the Throne, has been so
+free from Punishment or Severity, that the Tower is empty of Prisoners.
+
+As one goes up the _Thames_ towards St. _James_'s, End of the Town, where
+the King and most of the Nobility reside, one passes along by a Palace
+called the _Savoy_, because it was built by the Princes of _Savoy_, Uncles
+of Queen _Eleanor_ of _Provence_, Wife to _Henry_ III. This Building has
+nothing in it from one End to the other, but what is very deformed. The
+Chamber is still to be seen here in which _John_ II. King of _France_ was
+imprisoned, who, like _Regulus_, came and re-delivered himself into the
+Custody of his Conqueror, when he found the Estates of his Kingdom not
+disposed to perform the Terms of Peace, which he had signed, and which
+were the Condition of his having obtained Leave to go to _France_.
+
+The Palace of _Whitehall_, which is the common Landing-place for People
+that come out of the City by Water, is nothing to what it was possibly
+before the unhappy Fire began, by which it was consumed in the Reign of
+_William_ and _Mary_. There's a Pile of Building yet standing, which is
+magnificent, and is called the _Banquetting-House_. I was here shewn the
+very Window which the unfortunate _Charles_ I. came out of, when the
+Usurper _Cromwel_ made him walk from the Throne to the Scaffold. All the
+Buildings called by the Name of _Whitehall_, are now in the Hands of
+private Owners, by Grants of the late King _George_ I.
+
+St. _James_'s Palace, where the King lives, is only separated from
+_Whitehall_ by St. _James_'s Park. This House has nothing in it answerable
+to the Majesty of the Prince who resides in it, and there are few Princes
+in _Europe_ worse lodged than the King of _England_. I have been assured,
+that the Nation offered the late King _George_ I. to build him a new
+Palace; but that he made Answer, that since so many Kings, his
+Predecessors, had lived in that Palace, and been content with it, he
+thought it would do as well for him; and that he did not desire, that, for
+the sake of accommodating him, the Nation should be put to any sort of
+Inconvenience; but that its Funds might be employed in something that was
+more urgent, and more useful.
+
+St. _James_'s Park is the same Thing here as the _Thuilleries_ are at
+_Paris_; only this Park is more plain and artless; for here is Meadow
+Ground, with Walks of Trees, and a Canal in the middle of the whole. Mean
+time this Simplicity has a certain Beauty, which cannot be describ'd, tho'
+the Spectator feels it, and prefers it to the finest Gardens. _Charles_
+II. who was vastly fond of walking out for the Air, had a mind to make
+Embellishments in the Park, and for this End sent to _Paris_ for the
+famous _Le Neautre_, the Man that laid out the Garden of the
+_Thuilleries_, and the Park at _Versailles_. But this _Frenchman_, after
+having viewed the Park well, advised the King to let it stand as it did,
+assuring him that he could not make any thing better than it was. The
+grand Walk called the Mall, is full of People every Hour of the Day, but
+especially in the Morning and Evening; and their Majesties often walk in
+it with the Royal Family, who are attended only by half a dozen Yeomen of
+the Guard, and permit all Persons, without Distinction of Rank or
+Character, to walk there at the same Time with 'em; for which Reason the
+Crowd of People here is sometimes too great; but then it forms one of the
+most diversified Scenes imaginable: The Ladies and Gentlemen always appear
+here in rich Dresses; for the _English_, who Twenty Years ago did not wear
+Gold lace, but in their Army, are now embroidered and bedawb'd as much as
+the _French_; I speak of Persons of Quality; for the Citizen still
+contents himself with a Suit of fine Cloth, a good Hat and Wig, and fine
+Linen: Every body in general is well clad here, and even the Beggars don't
+make so ragged an Appearance as they do elsewhere.
+
+Of the fine Houses that open to the Park, those of _Marlborough_ and
+_Buckingham_ are the most considerable. The former is very richly
+furnished, and adorned with admirable Paintings. 'Tis occupied by the
+Dowager of that great Duke of _Marlborough_, who led the _English_ to
+triumph where-ever he came, and made the proudest of Kings to tremble.
+
+_Buckingham_ House is not so big as _Marlborough_ House, but infinitely
+better situate; for it fronts the great Walk of St. _James_'s Park, and is
+only separated from it by Grates of Iron. 'Tis one grand Building, with
+two advanced Wings, one on each Side, that are united to the main Body of
+the Building, by two open Galleries, forming a Semi-circle. In the middle
+of the Court there's a fine Water-work, and behind the House a great and
+magnificent Garden, at the End whereof there was to be a Canal, which was
+actually begun, but remains unfinish'd. This fine House is occupied by the
+Duchess Dowager of _Buckingham_, a natural Daughter of King _James_ II.
+
+St. _James_'s Quarter of the Town, and all the Out-parts of _London_ in
+general, are very regularly built, the Streets strait, broad and airy, and
+want nothing but to be better paved; which is a great Misfortune, that
+cannot be remedied but by an excessive Expence. They say, that _Lewis_
+XIV. offered _Charles_ II. to furnish him Stones enough to pave _London_,
+provided _Charles_ would furnish him with Gravel from _England_, to lay in
+the Gardens of his Royal Palaces. Whether this be true, I know not; but
+it seems to me that the Advantage would have been for the _English_
+Prince. Be it as it will, the Bargain was not struck, and _London_ is
+still the Sufferer for want of it.
+
+There are several great and fine Squares here, some of which, in my
+Opinion, would be more beautiful, were it not for the Fancy of adorning
+them with Gardens, which perhaps is owing to the Want of Stones for paving
+them. As these are encompassed with Iron Palisadoes, they look very much
+like Church-yards. St. _James_'s Square is the most considerable in
+_London_, not only for its Bigness, but for the Residence of Persons of
+the greatest Quality. Instead of a Garden, it contains a great fine Piece
+of Water, surrounded with an iron Balustrade. Three Sides of this Square
+are very regular; and it were to be wished, that the Proprietors of the
+fourth Side would be prevailed to build that in the same Manner. In this
+Square live the Earl of _Strafford_, Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the
+Congress at _Utrecht_; and the Duke of _Norfolk_, a _Roman_ Catholic, Earl
+Marshal, first Duke, and first Baron of _England_, Chief of the
+Illustrious Family of _Howard_; from whence was descended _Catharine_ the
+Fifth Wife of _Henry_ VIII. who had not a more happy Fate than the
+unfortunate _Anne Bullen_, who preceded her. The Duke of _Norfolk_'s House
+here has very fine Furniture, and most magnificent Pictures.
+
+_Grosvenor_'s Square, which is just finished, is even larger than St.
+_James_'s Square, and its Houses are much more magnificent. In the middle
+of the Garden is the Statue of King _George_ I. on Horseback, of Lead,
+gilt, and indeed very ill executed. Of the many Statues that there are in
+_London_, the best is that of _Charles_ I. represented on Horseback in
+Brass. It owes its Preservation to a sort of Miracle: The Usurper
+_Cromwell_ having caused it to be pulled down, and exposed to Sale, a
+Founder, who happen'd to be a zealous Royalist, bought it, and buried it
+under Ground, till the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to whom he made a
+Present of it; and this Prince caused it to be set up at _Charing-Cross_,
+where it still continues. When I see it, I always look upon it as an Image
+that has escap'd the Fury of the _Iconoclastes_.
+
+Since, the Accession of the _Hanover_ Family to the Throne of _Great
+Britain_, _London_ is infinitely larger than it was. There's one intire
+Quarter goes by the Name of _Hanover_. The Parliament being apprehensive,
+that in Process of Time the Town would grow too big to support itself,
+pass'd an Act some Years ago for restraining the building on new
+Foundations; and if this had been done twenty Years ago, this City would
+nevertheless have been too large.
+
+I say nothing to you of the other Squares, because my Design is only to
+give you a general Idea of _London_, and not a very exact Plan, that being
+a Business which I leave to some Traveller who is better instructed.
+Besides, to tell you the plain Truth, I am quite weary of entertaining you
+with Towers and Walls. Therefore I shall only say a Word or two more as to
+Houses and Churches. The House of the Duke of _Montagu_, Son-in-Law to the
+late Duke of _Marlborough_, is the most considerable. The Apartments are
+large and well laid out, and the Cielings exceeding fine, particularly
+those of the great Stair-case and Salon, wherein the Story of _Phaethon_
+is represented in a wonderful Manner. But all these fine Apartments are
+not furnish'd, and 'tis even said, that the Duke intends to lett his House
+to the Count _de Montijo_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador.
+
+Of the modern Churches that of St. _James_, which is the Parochial Church
+of the Court, is the finest, having a Portico before it, supported by
+Columns, after the Manner of the _Rotunda_ at _Rome_.
+
+The Abby Church of _Westminster_, in which the Kings are crown'd and
+interred, is a great Fabric, which contains the Tombs of several Kings,
+and other Persons illustrious either for their Birth or Merit. _Henry_ the
+VIIth's Chapel, wherein that wise King is interred with his Queen, is very
+magnificent, as is also the Tomb of the Dukes of _Newcastle_. That of the
+late Mr. _Craggs_, who was Secretary of State to King _George_ the Ist, is
+plain, but of a beautiful Contrivance: It represents that Minister in the
+_Grecian_ Manner, and leaning in a very noble Attitude upon an Urn. The
+famous _St. Evremont_ has a Place here amongst the Men of Learning: The
+Representation of him is in Form of a large Medal, on which there is a
+short Inscription, denoting that this Mausoleum was erected for him by his
+Friend my Lord _Galloway_.
+
+Amongst the Reliques which are still preserved in this Church, there is
+one, which for its Antiquity, I believe, has not its Equal, it being the
+Stone which served for _Jacob_'s Pillar, when he dreamt of that mysterious
+Ladder which reached up to Heaven. This precious Relique is very much
+neglected, and I cannot imagine how it came to be so abandoned by that
+pious King _James_ II. The _English_ would do well to make a Present of it
+to the Republic of _Venice_, where this Stone would quadrate exactly with
+the Piece of _Moses_'s Rock in St. _Mark_'s Church. The Cardinal
+_Cienfuegos_ shew'd me a Piece of it, when I was last at _Rome_: He told
+me, that he stole it in his Return from _Portugal_, where he had been
+Ambassador, when he came to _London_ with a Commission from the Emperor to
+King _George_ I. He added, that it was the only Robbery he was ever guilty
+of in his Life; and that he should have been exceeding scrupulous of
+committing it, if this Stone had been as much honour'd in _England_ as it
+deserved; but that finding it neglected and despised, he could not help
+filching a Piece of it, which he was so fortunate as to strike off with a
+Key, at the very Nick of Time when the Keeper of it happen'd to be looking
+another way. I told him, that I did not think that he needed to have been
+so very scrupulous of this Theft; that I was persuaded, that if he had
+given the Keeper a Guinea at most, he might have had a much greater Piece;
+and that perhaps for a Trifle more he might have brought away the whole
+Stone. O Lord! cry'd the Cardinal, lifting up his Eyes to Heaven, I wish
+then I had purchased it.
+
+In _Westminster_ Abbey I also saw the Stone Chair which _Edward_ I. that
+proud Conqueror of _Scotland_, caused to be brought from the Abbey of
+_Scoon_ to that of _Westminster_, in order to give the _Scots_ to
+understand that they had no longer any Sovereign Power in their Country.
+Ever since that Time the Kings of _England_ have made it a Rule to be
+seated in that Chair on the Day of their Coronation.
+
+The Palace of _Westminster_, tho' formerly noted for the Residence of the
+Kings, and now for the Assembly of the Parliament, is altogether plain.
+The Hall where the Royal Feast is celebrated on the Coronation-Day, is one
+of the largest in _Europe_.
+
+The Room where the Lords meet, which is called the House of Peers, is not
+much ornamented, nor is the King's Throne in it at all magnificent: They
+say, that a new Parliament-House is speedily to be erected; which is an
+Undertaking that deserves an able Hand to conduct it, the Parliament of
+_Great Britain_ being, next to the Dyet of the Empire, the most august
+Body in the Universe.
+
+When the King goes to meet his Parliament, 'tis with all the Splendor of
+Royalty, and he appears there with the Crown on his Head, dress'd in Royal
+Robes. His Throne is at the Bottom of the Room, whereas that of the King
+of _France_, when he holds his Courts of Justice, is plac'd in a Corner,
+with his Peers on each Side of him. But here the Prince of _Wales_ alone,
+as Heir of the Crown, sits in the same Line with the King, and the Peers
+sit upon Benches by the Sides of the Room, and across it. I have not yet
+had the Honour to see his present Majesty in his Parliament; but I saw the
+late King his Father there; and I assure you, that the Sight of this
+august Assembly inspired me with such Sentiments of Respect, as I don't
+know that I was ever impress'd with before. When I saw that King, the Best
+and most Just of Monarchs, come to give the Royal Assent to what the Peers
+of the Kingdom, or rather the Fathers of the People, had agreed to, I
+thought I saw _Augustus_ in the Capitol approving the Decrees of the
+Senate, and the Senate applauding the Actions of the Emperor. Nevertheless
+the Parliament does not always applaud the King's Measures; but on the
+contrary makes a noble Stand against them when they tend to incroach upon
+the public Liberty. 'Tis true, that since the late Revolution, which
+depriv'd the _Stuart_ Family of the Throne, the Kings and their
+Parliaments have always agreed very well. Such is the Genius of the
+Nation, that a mild just King is sure of their Love and Respect, and he
+finds them as obedient to his Will, as a Tyrant King finds them reluctant.
+All that find Fault with the _English_ for Disaffection to their Kings,
+have not duly read their History, or are fond of Slavery; and they who
+think a King of _Great Britain_ is to be pity'd because he is not
+absolute, have a false Notion of kingly Power. A Monarch of _England_ is
+capable of doing as much Good as any King in the World; but he can do no
+Wrong. And what can a King, if he be an honest Man, (pardon me this
+Expression, 'tis a Character not unworthy of a King) desire more? What
+needs there more to satisfy his Ambition? And is it possible, that a Man
+can be pitied, because 'tis not in his Power to make Millions of People
+miserable? For my part, I think that the _English_, who do not stand up
+for their Laws and Liberties, are altogether as criminal, as they who
+oppose the Will of their Sovereign in a State where Arbitrary Power is
+once established.
+
+What I admire in the _English_, is not only the Firmness with which they
+plead for their Rights, but their Manner of doing it. In other Nations we
+see Deputies from Parliaments or States makeing Remonstrances to their
+Sovereign, which are studied and concerted. An _Englishman_, on the
+contrary, makes his upon the Spot: He first hearkens attentively to what
+the Court Party has to propose, and if he finds it detrimental to the
+State, he opposes it solidly; not with Expressions that are flourish'd and
+far-fetch'd, but strongly represents the Inconveniencies of the Thing, and
+enforces what he says by the Quotation of Laws and Precedents. A true
+_English_ Nobleman or Gentleman sacrifices every thing he has, for his
+Country: The Court and its Favours are not strong enough to captivate him:
+He can renounce both, when he thinks himself engaged in Honour to oppose
+the Court Measures in Parliament, and he lays down his Employments. A King
+has seldom the Pleasure of turning a Man out, and much less that of being
+solicited by the Person in Disgrace to restore him to Favour. An
+_Englishman_ who should write such Letters as _Bussi Rabutin_ wrote to
+_Lewis_ XIV. would, I believe, be as much despised in _England_, as
+_Bussi_ was esteemed in _France_. They that are out of Favour, are not
+shunn'd here as they are elsewhere; and they are so far from being
+abandoned by their Friends, that a Nobleman has often a greater Levee in
+his Disgrace than he had when in Favour. At the same Time I can't but
+think, that this Indifference for standing well or ill with the Court, is
+sometimes push'd too far. I have been told, _a propos_, that Queen
+_Catharine_ of _Portugal_, Wife of _Charles_ II. having forbad a certain
+Lady to come to Court, for having behav'd in a Manner that gave Offence,
+the Lady made her Answer, That she would obey her, and that she assured
+her Majesty, she would never give herself the Trouble to visit her again,
+'till she could see her for Six-pence; by which she meant, when the Queen
+was dead, and exposed to View at _Westminster_.
+
+His present Majesty having some Years ago forbad the D----ess of _Q----y_
+to come to Court, for some disrespectful Behaviour, the Duke who was that
+Lady's Husband, and likewise disapproved her Conduct, immediately resign'd
+his Employment of V----e A----l of _Sc----d_, and absented himself from
+Court; but the D----ss and he were nevertheless seen as public Abroad as
+ever, and received abundance of Visits at Home. In short, a Man is only
+shunn'd here for being a Criminal, or a Coward.
+
+There's no King serv'd with greater Respect than a King of _Great
+Britain_: Even the Peers minister to him upon the Knee. His Family is very
+numerous; his Guards, which are spruce, form a considerable Body; his
+Court is always very much throng'd; and in short, he wants nothing of the
+Honours of Royalty. Since the late Revolution, a King is not accountable
+for any Thing he does; and the Ministers alone are culpable, and
+responsible to the Parliament for any Thing that happens wrong.
+
+The present King is not tall, but very well shap'd, has a stately Port, a
+very grave Countenance, and speaks little, but with great Propriety. The
+_French_, _English_, and the _Italian_ Languages are as familiar to him as
+the _German_. He reads a vast deal, and knows more than most do, who wear
+the Royal Diadem. Being not puffed up with Pageantry, and vain Grandeur,
+he does not give into superfluous Magnificence; but is an [OE]conomist,
+without Avarice; liberal, without being profuse; an Enemy to Vice, and a
+Friend to Virtue; sober and regular in his Ways and Manners; of a lively
+Temper, full of Spirit and Ambition, but submitting both the one and the
+other to Reason. He is active and laborious; understands Affairs, has a
+quick Apprehension, and a wonderful Memory. As Electoral Prince of
+_Hanover_, he gave Proofs of his Valour in the _Netherlands_ at the
+Battles of _Oudenarde_ and _Malplaquet_; as Prince of _Wales_, he shew'd
+that Adversity could not abate his Courage; and as King and Elector, he
+makes it evident, that he can both forgive an Injury, and forget it. His
+People are happy under his Reign. In _England_ his only Study is to
+maintain the Peace and Balance of _Europe_, to make Commerce flourish, and
+to render the Nation one of the most powerful in the World. At _Hanover_
+he endeavours, by good Offices to his Subjects there, to alleviate their
+Sorrow for his Absence. He has not made any miserable since he begun his
+Reign; and if the Blessings of the People help to prolong the Days of
+their Kings, his _Britannic_ Majesty may hope for one of the longest of
+Reigns.
+
+The Queen is a Princess in whose Person every thing that challenges
+Respect does at the same time command Affection. Her Presence is majestic,
+but accompany'd with Modesty and Good-nature; her Behaviour is the most
+courteous that can be; and her Wit, which is both solid and sparkling, is
+adorn'd with a thousand fine Accomplishments. She ever look'd upon all the
+trifling Amusements of her Sex with Disdain; and particularly never
+affected Ornament in Dress. The reading of choice Authors was always one
+of her greatest Pleasures; and her Majesty may be said to be one of the
+most learned Princesses in _Europe_. Having lost the Margrave of
+_Brandenburg Anspach_ her Father, when she was very young, and her Mother
+the Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_ marrying again to _John George_ IV.
+Elector of _Saxony_, she was left under the Guardianship of _Frederic_
+Elector of _Brandenburg_, afterwards King of _Prussia_; by which means she
+spent Part of her early Days at the Court of _Berlin_, where the
+Electoress, who was Sister to the late King _George_ I. gave her a
+Tincture of her own Politeness, and inspired her with those sublime
+Sentiments, for which she was admired by all that approach'd her. The
+young Princess of _Anspach_ had at that time all the Charms of Nature; and
+the Fame of her Beauty attracted the Addresses of _Charles_ III. King of
+_Spain_, our august Emperor, who offered her his Hand and his Crown: But
+the Princess was so strongly attach'd to her Religion, that she refused
+both. God reserv'd her, no doubt, to make _Great Britain_ happy, and she
+married the Electoral Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. Not many Years
+after this, she saw (but without any visible Emotion of Joy) her
+Father-in-Law and her Husband call'd to the Possession of one of the chief
+Thrones in the World. I was then at _Hanover_, and will venture to assure
+you, that the whole Electoral Family heard of this new Addition to their
+Greatness with a Moderation which render'd them worthy of their Fortune;
+and the Princess in particular demonstrated, that she was thoroughly
+satisfy'd in her Mind, that she could be happy without a Crown, and that
+both her Father-in-Law and her Husband were already Kings in her Eye,
+because they so highly deserved that Title. When she became Princess of
+_Wales_, she was so prudent as to keep fair with both the Parties which
+then divided the Royal Family. The late King had a sincere Esteem for her,
+and she in return paid him very great Respect. And[124]now that she is
+Queen, her Majesty contributes all that's in her Power to make the
+Subjects happy. The King lets her into a Share of Affairs, and leaves the
+Regency of the Kingdom to her in his Absence.
+
+Among the Joys of their _Britannic_ Majesties we ought to reckon the
+numerous Family with which Heaven has bless'd 'em. It consists of two
+Princes and five Princesses. The eldest, who has the Style and Title of
+Prince of _Wales_, tho' he is not very tall, has a majestic Air, and when
+among the Courtiers, is easily distinguish'd to be the chief Personage. He
+is extremely civil, affable, good-natured and polite. It may be truly said
+of him, that he has the Soul of a King; for few Princes are more generous.
+He loves Pleasures and Magnificence; he is gallant, has a penetrating
+Genius, talks very much, but always with Judgment, and to the Point. He is
+Master of several Languages, and understands History and Geography. He is
+perfect in all his Exercises, and really is not ignorant of any one Thing
+that a Prince of his Rank ought to know. The _Hanoverians_, among whom he
+was educated, ador'd him, and the _English_ seem altogether as fond of
+him.
+
+The young Duke of _Cumberland_, second Son to their Majesties, resembles
+what the Painters represent to us by the Name of _Cupid_. He has Sense
+infinitely superior to his Age, is very dexterous, and an apt Scholar. He
+speaks _English_, _High-Dutch_, _Latin_, and _French_; and I think more
+than this cannot be expected of a Prince who is not yet full thirteen
+Years of Age[125].
+
+Of the five Princesses I shall only mention the three eldest, the other
+two being as yet too young for a Character. The eldest, whom they call the
+_Princess Royal_[126], has an excellent Shape, and an Aspect of Modesty
+and Goodness, which wins the Hearts of all that see her. Her Temper is as
+engaging as her Physiognomy; and her Mind, which is disengaged from all
+Trifles, is more solid than might be expected from her Age. The reading of
+good Books, Conversation with Persons of Merit, and her Application to
+Music, are her chief Employments. She is extremely civil, and obligeing;
+and they say, she is generous and beneficent. 'Tis a Pleasure to see her
+on Horseback; she dances with a very good Grace, and really has all the
+Virtues becoming her high Birth.
+
+The Princesses _Amelia_ and _Caroline_, were they not the most shining
+Beauties, have personal Charms, and such Qualities of the Mind as cannot
+fail in time of making some Prince or other happy.
+
+With these Characters of the Royal Family I shall conclude my Letter,
+which is already long enough: I shall give you the rest of my Remarks
+without Delay. In the mean time be assured, that I am always with an
+inviolable Attachment, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                              LETTER LIV.
+
+
+  _SIR_,                                        _London, May 4, 1733._
+
+The last brought us to the Royal Family, and what relates to the Court.
+The latter is more numerous than brilliant, if it be certain that
+Pleasures form the Splendor of a Court. Of these their Majesties don't
+seem to be fond, at least of those noisy Pleasures, that instead of
+unbending the Mind, which ought to be the Aim of all Pleasures, only serve
+to fatigue it.
+
+'Tis very easy to obtain the Honour of being introduced to their
+Majesties, and the Royal Family, nothing more being necessary, than to
+send in one's Name to the Duke of _Grafton_, his Majesty's Lord
+Chamberlain, and my Lord _Grantham_, the Queen's Master of the Horse.
+People go to the King's Levee, and the Queen's Drawing-Room, as they do in
+_France_. Their Majesties dine in Public only upon _Sundays_, when none
+eat with 'em but their Children. The Table is in Form of an oblong Square,
+in the Middle of which sit the King and Queen, with the Prince of _Wales_
+on the Right, and the three eldest Princesses on the Left. The Service
+here is performed in the same Manner as it is in _France_. The Table is
+plac'd in the midst of a Hall, surrounded with Benches to the very
+Cieling, which are fill'd with an infinite Number of Spectators. The same
+Room serves also for the Balls, when there are any at Court. Three times
+a Week there's an Apartment here, called the _Drawing-Room_, which is
+open'd at Ten o'Clock at Night. About this Hour the Ladies repair to the
+said Apartment, which consists of three great Salons, made by the
+Direction of Queen _Anne_, which are the only tolerable Rooms in all St.
+_James_'s Palace. The King comes to it attended not only by the Queen, who
+is led by the Prince of _Wales_, but by the Princesses her Daughters.
+Their Majesties converse there for a few Moments with such Persons as they
+are pleased to distinguish; after which the Queen makes a profound Curtsy
+to the King, and goes to play for about an Hour with the Princess-Royal,
+and two Ladies, whom her Majesty singles out of the Company, and a little
+before Midnight their Majesties retire. Upon those Days that there's no
+Drawing-Room, the King and Queen are generally at the Opera, or the
+Play-house. In fine Weather they take the Air in St. _James_'s Park, or
+the Suburbs of _London_. In Summer-time their Majesties are for the most
+part at _Kensington_, _Windsor_, or _Hampton-Court_, the two last of which
+Palaces are beautiful. The first of these was built by the famous Cardinal
+_Wolsey_, the Favourite of King _Henry_ VIII. and before _Lewis_ XIV.
+began to build; was reckon'd the finest Palace in _Europe_.
+
+The King does not hunt much, but employs most of his Time with his
+Ministers, consulting the Welfare of his Dominions. Of these Sir ROBERT
+WALPOLE is the Principal, and he is the only Commoner in _Great Britain_
+that is honoured with the Order of the Garter. This Minister, who is not
+less applauded by the Court Party, than he is censured by the contrary
+Faction, has the general Veneration and Esteem of all the Courts of
+_Europe_; where 'tis confess'd to be owing to his Direction that the
+Cabinet of St. _James_'s gives Motion at this Time to all _Europe_, and
+that he is the Soul of all Councils, all Deliberations, and all
+Resolutions. Sir _Robert Walpole_ seems, in my Opinion, to be attended
+with the Fate of my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_, who, tho' admir'd by the
+whole World, and even by those to whom he did most Mischief, was hardly
+valued in his own Country, which he crown'd with Glory and Prosperity. I
+shall say nothing to you at present of this Gentleman's private Character,
+because I am not yet well enough acquainted with it. As I have no Business
+with him, I see him pass along; and that's all. I want some Neutral Man
+(that is to say, one who is neither for nor against this Minister) that
+knows him well, and will let me into the Knowledge of him too. If I am so
+fortunate as to find out such a Person, I will impart to you such Lights
+as he shall give me. Mean time I hear him talk'd of in Public as one that
+understands the Constitution of the Kingdom better than any Man in it, who
+thoroughly knows the Strength and Weakness of the State, and one whom
+nothing terrifies, nothing astonishes: And I may add, there's no Man more
+bold and enterprizing. He perfectly knows his Countrymen, and has the true
+Art of Government: And no Body speaks with more Eloquence in Parliament;
+where whatever he proposes seldom fails of being pass'd; and the
+Lower-house is, as one may say, determined by him.
+
+His greatest Opponents in Parliament are Mr. _P----y_ in the House of
+Commons, and my Lord _St----d_ in the House of Peers. This Lord, you know,
+was for a long time Ambassador from Queen _Anne_ to the Court of _Berlin_,
+and afterwards to the States General; and that it was he that sign'd the
+Treaty of Peace at _Utrecht_: He was a Member of the Privy Council when
+the Queen died; but King _George_ I. did not think fit continue him; at
+which his Lordship being disgusted, absented from Court, and became in
+Parliament the Censor of the Ministers. After the Death of King _George_
+I. the Earl paid his Respects to their present Majesties, who received him
+with very great Marks of Distinction; which however did not hinder his
+constant Opposition to the Measures of the Court: Yet it cannot be deny'd
+that his Lordship behav'd with very great Prudence in the Changes that
+happened upon the Accession of the _Brunswic_ Family to the Throne. This
+Lord, speaking to me one Day of those Alterations, in the Voyage which I
+made hither in 1728, told me, that if he had been rul'd by the Duke of
+_Ormond_, he would have been in the same miserable Circumstances as that
+Duke. "He did all he could, _said he_, to persuade me to quit the Kingdom
+with him; but he was so far from decoying me away, that I made use of all
+the Rhetoric I was Master of, to persuade him to stay at home, because we
+had neither of us done any thing but by Order of the Queen our Mistress;
+that therefore we had nothing to fear, and that the worst that could
+happen to us would be a Censure. But the Duke had such a Terror upon him,
+that all these Arguments were not powerful enough to encourage him; and
+but a few Hours before he went off, he came and conjured me to leave the
+Kingdom with him. I made him this Answer: _I have nothing to reproach
+myself with_, my Lord, _I have obeyed the Queen, and I have too high an
+Opinion of the Justice of my Country, and too great a Confidence in the
+Equity of the King, to fear any Thing_. The Answer which the Duke made me
+was, _Well then_, my Lord, _I must take the same Farewel of you as the_
+Prince of Orange _did of_ Count Egmont. FAREWEL, COUNT WITHOUT A HEAD. To
+which I replied, FAREWEL, DUKE WITHOUT A DUCHY. The Event has shewn, that
+I was a better Prophet than the Duke of _Ormond_: For I enjoy my Estate in
+Peace, whereas what he had is taken from him." In the same Conversation
+the Earl talked a great deal to me of their Majesties, and in Terms of the
+profoundest Respect. He expressed an infinite Value for the King, who when
+Prince of _Wales_, said he, always treated him with very great Regard and
+Goodness. Nevertheless this Lord seldom appears at Court: He spends the
+Summer in the Country, and the Winter at _London_, where once a Week he
+has an Assembly; but in other respects he lives very retired, and at no
+great Expence.
+
+The Duke of _Newcastle_ is Secretary of State. This Nobleman is extremely
+civil, very rich, and lives grand. He has the Province of foreign Affairs,
+in Conjunction with my Lord _Harrington_, who, when he was only Colonel
+_Stanhope_, gain'd Reputation as Ambassador in _Spain_, and at the
+Congress of _Soissons_. I knew this Minister at _Madrid_ in 1719, and can
+vouch for him, that he is one of the worthiest and soberest Men in the
+World. He is good-natur'd, modest, generous, and mighty sincere. He is shy
+of new Acquaintance, but when once a Man knows him, the better he will
+like him.
+
+I don't think that the Ministers of this Country, or the Nobility, are so
+haughty as they are represented in our Country; and have Reason to think,
+that they who say the _English_ are not civil to Foreigners, have not been
+very conversant with 'em. 'Tis true, they are not so engaging as the
+_French_; but when a Man is known among them, gives into their Ways, and
+courts their Favour, in short, they are, methinks, as courteous and civil
+as any other People in the World. An _Englishman_ won't be saying at every
+Turn, _That he has the Honour to be your most humble Servant; that he has
+the Honour to say, to hear_, and so of the rest. He will say it perhaps
+once in a Conversation, and that's all; nor, on the other hand, does he
+want to be loaded with Compliments, Acknowledgments, and impertinent Bows.
+As he is above Trifles, he looks upon all those frothy Expressions as
+frivolous; and this it is that makes our young Travellers think, that the
+_English_ are not polite. Such far-fetcht and bombast Phrases are commonly
+all that those Sparks have learnt at a great deal of Expence in their
+Travels to _France_, and they are perfectly astonished, when they come
+into a Land of good Sense, and see so little Notice taken of what they
+have paid for so dear, and what has cost them so much Pains to acquire.
+
+There are some _English_ People, who upon certain Occasions seem to forget
+the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage
+to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and
+ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was
+convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper,
+which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast
+is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take
+Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself,
+and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In
+short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I
+shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me,
+that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People,
+'tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them
+understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don't care to speak foreign
+Languages; and when they do, 'tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now
+Constraint is what the _English_ don't at all like; for as they enjoy the
+greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to
+every Thing which cramps it.
+
+Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what
+the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so
+much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the
+Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not
+following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these
+two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by
+several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the
+one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great
+a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it
+seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom,
+and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don't surfeit
+themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and
+which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my
+Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a
+complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled
+to the Manners and Customs of the _English_.
+
+A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a
+Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho' they differ widely
+in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their
+Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho' _London_ has not
+such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as
+senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a
+great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion
+and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I
+think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are
+as many at _London_ as at _Paris_.
+
+The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what
+Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter,
+and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to
+prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are
+more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the
+Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St.
+_Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of
+Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of
+_England_. We don't hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are
+committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here
+than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given
+them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to
+give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. 'Tis
+inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their
+Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I
+give you the following, because I think 'twas very well contrived.
+
+As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely
+bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of
+the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale,
+where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach,
+said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; 'tis worth a hundred Pieces
+between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood
+his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his
+Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing
+that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him,
+that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so
+that my Lord could not recover his Money.
+
+As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much
+more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder
+near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon
+the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe,
+he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he
+sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came
+hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They
+gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he
+was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were
+just going to condemn him, when he ask'd them, At what o'Clock the Murder
+was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to
+think_, said he, _that 'twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of
+which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place
+where 'twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to
+be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty.
+Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask'd him
+privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise
+to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.
+
+I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you,
+that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their
+Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There
+are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is
+condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or
+Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank
+with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than
+twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found.
+The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be
+agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed
+Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but
+two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which
+the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.
+
+It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as
+humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions;
+as if 'twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that 'twas not enough to
+take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one
+Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.
+
+The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason
+of the Courage with which most of 'em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw
+five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well
+pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not
+performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not
+that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes
+a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows
+here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of
+it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the
+Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull
+him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without
+Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least
+of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.
+
+'Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be
+intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of
+that Contempt of Life; yet we can't help admiring it in the _Romans_, from
+whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End
+to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but
+too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well
+as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters
+from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang'd themselves
+at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought
+unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not
+apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror.
+Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for
+such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other
+Nations don't seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the
+_English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one
+rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the
+_English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater
+Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?
+
+A great many of 'em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if
+I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be
+for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty
+and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and
+such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho' not universally pleasing, yet
+captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I
+should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are
+handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to
+pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. 'Tis a Pleasure to see
+them blush. The frankest of 'em retain an Air of Modesty, which would
+persuade one, that they don't affect to be wicked. They are commonly very
+richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies,
+which is the only Fault that I find with 'em. They seem to affect Dressing
+to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves,
+which don't reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no
+Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat
+Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and
+monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and 'tis as rare to
+see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a
+full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_
+a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in
+their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set
+themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should
+be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and
+Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country,
+which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good
+Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of
+the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is
+very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill
+becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I
+believe 'tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning
+Virtue.
+
+The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give
+and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being
+seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most
+Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks,
+Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved,
+have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their
+Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly
+of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look'd upon one
+another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other
+Place where there's a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue
+stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn
+out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in
+form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and
+in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take
+the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind
+to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble
+themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and
+of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their
+Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here
+than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great
+deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_'s Love for
+_Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country.
+
+The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have
+known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought
+_London_ too dull a Place for 'em to live in. Others would argue with me,
+that there's more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related
+to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have
+given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be
+taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify'd_ or _Italianized
+Englishmen_, and me.
+
+A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a
+Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the
+other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee,
+has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium
+betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the
+Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes
+his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body'd Coat,
+without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword
+at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly
+the Place he walks to, because 'tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There
+he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes
+home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or
+Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for 'tis a sort
+of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this
+Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often
+look at one another, without opening their Lips; and 'tis very well they
+are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other
+Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no
+hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in
+St. _James_'s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time,
+is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes,
+and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs
+nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o'Clock, they go to
+Court, to the King's Levee, and from thence to the Queen's Apartment,
+where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three
+o'Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are
+very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private
+Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at
+the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a
+Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don't drink the same Sort, with
+Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the
+Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he
+pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always
+drink too much, because they sit too long at it.
+
+When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out
+again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or
+else on Foot to St. _James_'s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till
+the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate
+Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera's or
+Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative,
+sometimes at one Lord's House, and sometimes at another's, or else they
+repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies
+formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded
+by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after
+what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse
+himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who
+say that this City is too melancholy for 'em, only say so to give
+themselves an Air.
+
+At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy
+as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each
+Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason
+that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance
+of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love
+with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and
+in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together
+make very good Fare. There's one Custom established in these Houses, which
+to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man's
+Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a
+Kiss, which tho' but a very modest one, 'tis a Pleasure to see a Colour
+come into the Lady's Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second
+Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has
+been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House:
+And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House
+at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four
+times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would
+serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_
+keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay
+their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of
+their Class in the World.
+
+The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there's the best of
+Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the
+Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and
+dirty.
+
+The Assemblies here are so throng'd, that there's hardly any stirring.
+Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables.
+Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm
+of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass
+mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another's Health; but 'tis
+in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.
+
+The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at
+the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw
+a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand
+in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated
+with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable,
+besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous
+Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely
+illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there's Play.
+The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform'd by the ablest Musicians
+in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these
+Balls the Company are often mask'd, and then the King and the Prince of
+_Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses
+are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well
+dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for
+there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The
+_English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a
+time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives
+Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are
+so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the
+_French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_.
+
+As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of 'em than any
+other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most
+magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea
+for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though 'tis always crouded,
+yet it won't defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the
+Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant;
+but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is
+_Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents
+in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one
+_Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression,
+but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think
+his Music not so affecting as 'tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine,
+and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_.
+The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form
+Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good
+Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax
+candles. There's Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque
+Interlude.
+
+Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there's an _English_ one, where they sing
+only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than
+when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or
+beating himself.
+
+The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has
+been severely criticiz'd by the _French_, who say, 'tis not comparable to
+theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very
+gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my
+Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the
+_French_ are too much cramp'd by their Rules, and the _English_ not
+enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste,
+the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho' the _English_ are not
+such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of
+Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much
+prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own
+Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces,
+where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of
+_Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has
+had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed
+by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom
+of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was
+a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.
+
+The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in
+which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner
+very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare
+with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and
+their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not
+the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all
+the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_
+does with Falcons.
+
+The Swiftness of the _English_ Horses is the Reason that there are
+Horse-Races every Year at a Place called _Newmarket_; and this really is
+what Travellers may say is worth seeing. These Races continue for several
+Days successively, and infinitely surpass those which are seen in _Italy_.
+They are run round a large Plain. Two Horses mounted by Jockeys contend
+which shall run fastest. The Riders are weighed, and to the lightest of
+them they give that Weight which he wants of the other. They ride without
+a Saddle, and with such Velocity, that the Eye can scarce keep Pace with
+'em. Upon these Occasions, Wagers are laid of several thousand Pounds
+Sterling: And it seems to be a Festival celebrated to the Honour of
+_Plutus_, the God of Riches; for the Jockey that wins the Prize is sure to
+be refreshed with a Shower of Guineas, every one crouding to reward him.
+Such is the Custom of the _English_, who not only pay those handsomely who
+contribute to their Pleasures, but load them with Presents. This is to be
+seen at all the Prize-sightings, Rope-dancings, Tumblings, and such
+Diversions, where every one throws down Money upon the Stage to them that
+play their Part best. The Actors at the Opera and the Play-houses have
+also Gratuities, besides their Salaries; for once a Year, every Performer
+has a Benefit-Night, as they call it, which is the Surplus Money then
+taken, over and above the Charges of the House; and if the Person be a
+Favourite of the Town, as Notice is given by Play-Bills pasted up, for
+whose Benefit the Play is to be acted, People send for more Tickets than
+they shall make use of, for the Party's Encouragement. This Generosity of
+the _English_ towards those who give them Pleasure, extends in a
+particular Manner towards their Mistresses, for whom they think nothing
+too fine, nor too dear. Thus, 'tis not to Assiduity that they are willing
+to be obliged for the Favours which they receive, but to their Money, and
+their Presents; wherein they differ widely from certain Abbes of _Rome_,
+of whom no less than five or six club for the keeping of one Mistress.
+
+These Abbes put me in mind of a numerous Tribe here, called _Chaplains_,
+whose bonny Countenances are a pretty evident Proof, that at the
+Reformation of the Church of _England_, their Revenues were not very much
+impaired. Whether these Gentlemen are more sober than our Clergy, I know
+not; but by Appearances I am almost tempted to think, that they have the
+same Thirst for Honour and Wealth, the same Cares and Uneasiness; in fine,
+that they are Men alike. The Difference is, that the _English_ are subject
+to the Laws, that their Passions are kept within Bounds, and that the
+Laity are not so superstitious as to take them for Oracles. 'Tis said that
+they make admirable Sermons, the constant Tenor of which is to reform
+Mankind, and to guide them in the Path of Virtue. They read them instead
+of pronouncing them by Heart, which prevents them from falling into that
+extravagant Gesticulation, and those mad Rants and Enthusiasm, which
+commonly irritate more than edify. But I think I have said enough to you
+of the Clergy, when I had undertaken to give you a farther Account of the
+_English_ Diversions. Those of the Vulgar are, the Battles of Animals,
+Prize-fighters, Wrestlers, and in a Word, all Manner of Diversions that
+contribute to the shedding of Blood; for here, Wounds go for nothing, and
+Death itself is but little dreaded. I fansy the _English_ are descended
+from _Mutius Scaevola_, because, like that _Roman_, they despise Pain.
+Among the Pleasures of the Populace there are some too that are mixed with
+Insolence; of which I saw an Instance a few Days ago in St. _James_'s
+Park. A Man had laid a Wager, that he would run round the Park in so many
+Minutes; and that he might be the less incumbered in his Race, he stripped
+himself stark naked, so that his Hand served him for a Fig-leaf. In this
+State of Nature he travers'd along the Mall, thro' an infinite Concourse
+of People. The Ladies, astonish'd at such a Sight, knew not how to keep
+their Countenances: Some turned their Heads aside, others hid their Faces
+with their Fans, but they all made a Row, as well as the Men, to let him
+pass by. After he had finished his Race, he gravely put on his Cloaths,
+near _Whitehall_, where he left 'em; and as he had won the Wager,
+abundance of People, instead of checking him for his Insolence, threw him
+Money. Judge by this, if any People are so good-natur'd and happy as the
+_English_.
+
+Among the Pleasures of this Nation, I must not forget to mention the
+Parties they make for the Country. This the _English_ set a great Value
+upon, and really well they may; for indeed their Country is very
+beautiful. It produces them every thing but Wine. Their Fields have always
+a fresh Verdure, the Gentlemens Country-Seats are superb, and in the
+Country the _English_ live with the Grandeur of Noblemen, whereas at
+_London_ they live for most part like mere private Men.
+
+Nothing can be more agreeable to the Eye, than the Suburbs of _London_,
+particularly along the _Thames_. I cannot conceive how a Native of
+_England_, and one too that has a Fortune to depend on, can resolve to
+leave these Regions, as a great many _English_ nevertheless do, who prefer
+Countries to which Nature has not been so kind, before their own. I
+confess, that if I had one thousand Pounds Sterling a Year in _England_, I
+would renounce the most shining Offers of Fortune elsewhere; for the
+Climate here is mild, without that excessive Heat or Cold which is so
+troublesome in other Parts of the World: And indeed, 'tis for this Cause
+that the Fruits here are not so kindly as elsewhere, and that the Grape
+does not grow here for the Production of Wine; but then, this Defect is
+supplied by the Grapes of _Spain_ and _Portugal_, which are imported here
+in Abundance.
+
+One of the most agreeable Prospects in the Country here, is to see the
+happy Condition of the Peasants, who are all well lodged, well clad, and
+well fed. Their Lot is happier than that of many Gentlemen in certain
+Provinces that I know. Here is nothing of that excessive Subordination
+which is demanded by the Grandees of other Countries. A Gentleman who
+makes a Visit to a Lord, is receiv'd by him as his Equal, without being
+made sensible of the Difference that has happened betwixt them on the
+Score of Birth. Nevertheless, the great Men are very much honoured here;
+for while they are civil, every body strives to pay them all Sorts of
+Deference, but nobody thinks he is born to be insulted by them.
+
+The Great Men here, as well as in _France_, don't scruple to marry Women
+of inferior Families. Indeed there ought to be a great Distinction made
+between the _English_ Merchant and the Merchants of other Countries. The
+_English_ are often descended from the greatest Families in the Kingdom,
+and we have seen some of them go from behind their Compter to a Peerage,
+when by Right of Succession they rise from Cadets to be the eldest of
+their Families. Thus, when a Nobleman marries a Merchant's Daughter, she
+sometimes proves his Cousin, or a Lady of a distinguish'd Family; whereas
+in _France_, she is always the Daughter of a Plebeian.
+
+These, Sir, are the few Remarks that I have made upon this Country, and I
+wish they may entertain you. As I propose to make some longer Stay here, I
+may hereafter send you farther Observations on what occurs. In the mean
+time, continue me in the Honour of your Remembrance, and be thoroughly
+persuaded, that no Person in the World is more particularly than I am, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                         An Alphabetical INDEX
+
+                                 TO THE
+
+                             SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+          A
+
+  _Abbes_, _Italian_, 69, 70.
+    Five or six club for one Mistress, 469.
+
+  _Abbesses_ that preach'd, bless'd and confess'd, 195.
+
+  _Academy, French._
+    Its Invitation to the Stage-Players, and their Return of the Favour,
+        266, 267.
+
+  _Acquaviva_, Cardinal, 4, 44, 55.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Pr. of, 136.
+
+  _Acunha, Lewis de_, 406.
+
+  _Agasias_ the _Ephesian_, 49.
+
+  _Agnus Dei_'s, their Fabrication and Distribution, Origin and
+      Consecration, 99, _&c._
+
+  _Agrippa_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, 332.
+
+  _Aignan_, (_St._) Duke _de_, 85, 123.
+
+  AIX LA CHAPELLE, _t._ 327.
+    Reliques exposed there, 329.
+
+  _Aix_ Parliament.
+    The _Jansenists_ with the Members hang'd, 194.
+    An Epigram, making them greater Sinners than _Pilate_, _ibid._
+
+  _Alacoque Maria_, made a Saint by a Bishop, 202.
+
+  _Alais_, Count de, 217.
+
+  _Albano_ Cardinal, 15, 16, 37, 78, 88.
+
+  ---- Painter, 359.
+
+  _Albemarle_, Earl and Countess, 407, 408.
+
+  _Alberoni_'s Proposal to the Cardinals, to take away the Franchises of
+      Churches, 75.
+    _Clement_ XIth's Design to deprive him of the Hat, 88.
+
+  _Albert_, Archduke of _Austria_, 313.
+
+  _Albert the Great_, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, 327.
+
+  _Albert_, Cardinal of _Brandenbourg_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Albin, St._ Abbe of, 291.
+
+  _Alcmaer_, t. 392.
+
+  _Alegre_, Marshal, 339.
+
+  _Alexander Farnese_, 39.
+
+  _Alexander_ VI. Pope, 97.
+
+  ALEXANDRIA _de la Paille_, t. 151.
+
+  _Aliberti_, Count, his Theatre, 65.
+
+  _Alincourt_, Marquis _de_, 174, 175.
+    Remarkable Preferment of his Son to the See of _Lyons_, 175, 176.
+
+  _Almanza_ Victory, to what ascrib'd, 259.
+
+  _Alstein_, a _German_ Minister, 382.
+
+  _Altelli_, General of the _Corsicans_, 150.
+
+  _Alva_, Duke of, 317.
+
+  _Ambiorix_, King, 321.
+
+  _Ambrun_, Council of, 240.
+
+  _Amelia_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Amende honorable_, Punishment, what, 433.
+
+  _Amerongen_, Brigadier _de_.
+    The Token he gave of his Love for a Lady, at the Hazard of his Life,
+        320.
+
+  AMSTERDAM, _t._ 317, 371.
+
+  _Anabaptist_, _Dutch_, his Zeal for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  ANDERNACH, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Angelo, Michael_, 33, 37.
+
+  _St. Angelo_, Castle, 31.
+
+  _Angervilliers_, M. _de_, 238, 239.
+
+  _Anne_ of _Austria_, 198.
+
+  ---- of _Bavaria_, the Palatine, 218.
+
+  ---- Queen of _England_, Reflection on her Statue at St. _Paul_'s, 433.
+
+  ---- Princess Royal of _England_, 448.
+
+  _Anna Maria Frances_ of _Saxe-Lawenburg_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Antin_, Duke of, 188, 199.
+    His Son, 226.
+
+  _Antonine_ Pillar, 3.
+
+  _Antoninus Caracalla_, Emperor, 38.
+
+  _Antoninus_ and _Faustina_'s Temple at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  ANTWERP, _t._ 317.
+
+  _Ara Ubiorum_ of the Ancients, 338.
+
+  _Archduchess_, Governess of the _Netherlands_, 299, to 302, 304.
+
+  _Ardicinio_, Cardinal, 87.
+
+  _Aremberg_, Duke _de_, (just made Generalissimo of the Imperial Forces
+      in the _Austrian Netherlands_) 297, 298, 299, 306.
+
+  _Argenson_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, 210, 236, 245, 385.
+
+  _Armagnac_, M. _de_, 251.
+
+  _Armand_ his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Armenonville_, M. _de_, 236.
+
+  _Arno_, R. 141.
+
+  _Ascanio_, the _Spanish_ Minister, 132.
+
+  _Asfeldt_, Baron _de_, 339.
+
+  _Asperen_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Assassins_, Sanctuary at _Rome_, 75, 76.
+
+  _Assemblies_, at _Rome_, 69, 70, 71.
+
+  _Astalli_, Cardinal, his Elopement when the Pope went to deprive him of
+      his Hat, 93 to 95.
+
+  ASTI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Astrologer_, _Turkish_, his Prophecy relating to himself, Father,
+      Grandfather, and Great-Grandfather, 140.
+
+  _Athlone_, Earl of, 366.
+
+  _Aubigny_, _Theodore de_, Admiral, the famous Protestant and Author,
+      264.
+
+  ---- _Frances de_, his Grand-daughter, who was Marchioness _de
+      Maintenon_, 262 to 265.
+      Her Family, 264.
+
+  _Audenarde_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Audiences_, the Ceremony of those given by the Pope, 55, _&c._
+
+  _August_, Snow in that Month, 13.
+
+  _Augustus_, Emperor, 7.
+
+  ---- King of _Poland_. The Countess of _Wartemberg_'s Attack upon him,
+      410.
+
+  _Auricular Confession_, why abolish'd throughout the _East_, 195.
+
+  _Author_, the, his Amour with an old Coquet of the pious Sort, 286,
+      _&c._
+    ---- At what Age he could like to be a _Frenchman_, and at what an
+        _Englishman_, 455.
+    ---- His Father's Death, 321.
+
+  _Auverquerque, Maurice_, Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  AUXERRE, _t._ 183.
+
+  _Ayrolles_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+
+          B
+
+  _Bacharach_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Baden_, Princess, marry'd to the Duke of _Orleans_, 206.
+    Treaty there, 255.
+    How Prince _Lewis_ was surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  _Bagnolet_ Village, 206.
+
+  _Baker_ castrated by his jealous Wife, 183.
+
+  _Balbi, James_, a _Genoese_ Nobleman, 146.
+
+  _Balls_ at the _Haymarket_, magnificent, 465.
+
+  _Banchieri_, Cardinal, 16, 18, 44, 54, 112.
+
+  _Bank Bills_, French, 245 to 248.
+
+  ---- Of _Amsterdam_, 380.
+
+  _Barberini_ Family, more barbarous than the Barbarians, 7.
+
+  ---- Cardinal, 15, 78, 96.
+
+  ---- Palace, 40, 64.
+
+  _Barcelona_ reduc'd, 257.
+
+  _Bareith_, Prince of, 404.
+
+  _Baron_, a _French_ Comedian and Coxcomb, 200.
+
+  _Barre, John_, his extraordinary Adventures, 414, _&c._
+
+  _Barricades_ of _Paris_ erected, 283.
+
+  _Bavaria_, Elector of, 214, 303.
+
+  _Beaufort_, Count _de_, 323.
+
+  _Beaujolois_, Mademoiselle _de_, 208.
+
+  _Becker_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 363.
+
+  _Belisarius_'s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Belle-Isle_, Count _de_, 210, 217, 227.
+
+  _Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 26. His Credulity abus'd by the Cardinals,
+      particularly _Coscia_; and his great Humility and Sanctity, 26 to
+      30.
+    A Reflection on his Ministers, 114.
+
+  _Benefices_, Instances of Pluralities, 337, 342.
+
+  _Benefit-Nights_ at the Theatre, 468.
+
+  BENSBERG, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, 4, 13, 14, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor about _Parma_, 120.
+    Death and Successor, 130.
+
+  ---- Marquis, 14.
+
+  _Berg_, Country, 361.
+
+  _Bernini Lorenzo_, Architect, 6, 8.
+
+  ---- The Sculptor, 9, 34, 48, 101.
+
+  _Berry_, Duke of, 206.
+
+  _Berwic, James_, (late) Duke. His Parentage and Preferments, 257 to
+      259.
+    His too great Obsequiousness to the Regent and Court of _France_,
+        258, 259.
+    His Death and Successor, 259.
+    His great Aversion to the _English_, and Ingratitude to the King of
+        _Spain_, 258, 259.
+
+  _Beverwert_, M. _de_, 401.
+
+  _Bichi_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  BINGEN, _t._ 352.
+
+  _Binger-Loch_, a Cascade upon the _Rhine_, 351.
+
+  _Bissi_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _Blanc_, M. _le_, Secretary, 210, 227, 238.
+
+  _Blaspiel_, Baron and Baroness _de_, 363, 364.
+
+  _Bleickert_ Wine, 348.
+
+  _Blood Divine_, suck'd by the Pope, 21.
+
+  _Bodies Human_, a Thought concerning them, 272.
+
+  _Boerhaave_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Boetselaars_, 412.
+
+  _Bois_, Cardinal _de_, 230, 291, 292.
+    Story of his Marriage, 293.
+    His brutish Conversation, and Habit of Swearing, 294, 295.
+    His Tomb, and Remark upon it, 295.
+
+  BOLOGNA, _t._ 129, _&c._
+
+  _Bolognetti_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  ---- Countess, 69.
+
+  _Boniface_ VIII. Pope. His Order about the Cardinals Robes, 86.
+
+  BONN, _t._ 337.
+
+  _Bonnet_, (_St._) an Officer, 338.
+
+  _Bookselling Trade_, the Centre of it, 386.
+
+  _Bookbinder_ and his Wife, Suicides, 270 to 273.
+
+  _Bork_, M. _de_, 363.
+
+  _Borghese_, Prince, his Palace, 46, 48, 49.
+    His Family the Favourites of St. _Peter_, 47.
+
+  _Borghese, Scipio_, Cardinal, 47, 48, 49.
+
+  _Borgia_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _---- Casar_, Duke _de Valentinois_, his Contrivance to poison a
+      Cardinal, like to have been fatal to himself, 97, 98.
+
+  _Borgo_, Marquis _del_, 157, 161.
+
+  _Bossu_, Cardinal _de_, 318.
+
+  _Bot_, General, 362.
+
+  _Boufflers_, Marshal, 253, 315.
+
+  _Bougir_'s House at _Aix la Chapelle_, 331.
+
+  _Bourbon_, Duke of, 182, 186, 207, 290, 291.
+    How he lost an Eye, 208.
+    Made Superintendant of the King's Education, and Prime Minister, 209,
+        210, 221.
+    Displac'd, 211, 226, 230.
+    His Marriage, 212.
+
+  ---- Duchess of, 216, 217.
+
+  _Brandenburg Anspach_, Margrave, 446.
+
+  _Breteuil_, M. 210, 238, 293.
+
+  _Brignole_, Messieurs, of _Genoa_, 147.
+
+  BRILLE, _t._ 427.
+
+  _Brioche, Swiss_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Brosse_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Brouffel_ arrested by _Anne_ of _Austria_, 283.
+
+  BRUGES, _t._ 312.
+
+  _Bruhl_, Seat of the Elector of _Cologne_, 340.
+
+  _Brunette_, Fort _de la_, 169.
+
+  _Brunswic_, Duchess of, 218.
+
+  _---- Lunenburg, Antony-Ulric_, Duke, 361.
+
+  BRUSSELS, _t._ 298.
+    Its Trade, and the Pleasures of the Court and the City, 308, 317.
+
+  _Brutus_'s Tragedy by _Voltaire_, 265, 266, 467.
+
+  _Bucentaur_ of _Venice_, the Oath taken by her Captain, 315.
+
+  _Buckingham_ House, 437.
+
+  ---- Duchess Dowager, _ib._
+
+  _Bullen, Anne_, Queen, 438.
+
+  _Buonarota, Mich. Angelo_, 6, 24.
+
+  _Buoncompagno_, Cardinal, his Comparison of the Pope to the Holy
+      Sepulchre, 29.
+    His Funeral, 107.
+
+  _Burgomasters, Dutch_, 376.
+
+  _Burgundians_, their Character, 182.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Wine, counterfeited, 348.
+
+  _Burgundy_, Duke, his Honour vindicated, 154.
+    How much he is still venerated in _France_, 204.
+
+  _Bussy, Rabutin_'s Letters, 182, 443.
+
+
+          C
+
+  _Cadiere_, Mademoiselle _la_, her Affair with _Girard_ her Father
+      Confessor, 193.
+    Her Recantation of the Charge against him, 194.
+
+  _Cadogan_, Earl and Countess, 409.
+
+  _Calf_, M. disowns his Son by reason of his Dress, 390.
+
+  CAMBRAY, _t._ 291.
+    Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Campagna di Roma_, infested by Locusts, 41.
+
+  _Campo Vaccino_, Square, at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Canals_, _Canards_, and _Canaille_ 428.
+
+  _Canons_, where they have the Title of Counts, 180.
+
+  _Capitol_, of _Rome_, 33.
+
+  _Caponi_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Carache, Annibal_, Painter, 39, 359.
+
+  _Caraffa, John Peter_, Cardinal, 126.
+
+  _Cardinals in Petto_, what, 82.
+    The slavish Life of the Cardinals, with all their Dignity, 83.
+    Their Manner of going Abroad, 83, 84.
+    Their Dress, and a Vindication of 'em from Luxury, 84.
+    The Vanity of their Pretension to an Equality with crown'd Heads, 85.
+    Their Manner of Visiting, and their several Orders, 86.
+    Why their Hats are Red, and their Robes and Bonnets Scarlet, _ib._
+    How they came to the Title of Eminency, _ib._
+    Who the greatest Pushers for the Hat, and who have resign'd it, 87.
+    Their Consinement to the Dominions of the Holy See, 90, 93.
+    Why they always take their own Liquor with them, 97.
+
+  _Carignan_, Prince of, 201.
+
+  _Carlos_, Don, his Journey to _Tuscany_, 139, 233, 318.
+    A Prophecy of _Nostradamus_ apply'd to him, 139.
+
+  _Carnival_, at _Rome_, 64.
+
+  _Caroline_, Princess, 448.
+
+  _Carolis_, Cardinal, 37.
+
+  _Carpentier_, a _French_ Refugee in _Holland_, 429.
+
+  _Carpinetti_, Duke, 42.
+
+  _Casimir, John_ of _Poland_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    King, 336.
+
+  _Cassius, Florus_, 340.
+
+  _Castor_ and _Pollux_, represented by two great Horses, 33.
+
+  _Catharine_, Queen, Wife to _Hen._ VIII. 438.
+    Wife to _Char._ II. threatened by a Lady never to be visited again,
+        till she could be seen for 6 _d._ 444.
+
+  _Catinat_, Marshal de, 252.
+
+  _Cellamare_, Prince of, 180, 222.
+
+  _Cenis_, Mountain, 168, 169, 170.
+
+  _Cevennois_ Rebellion suppressed, how, 253.
+
+  CHALONS, upon the _Saone_, t. 180.
+
+  _Chamber_ of Justice in _France_, 249.
+
+  CHAMBERRY, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Chantilly_, Seat, 290.
+
+  _Chaplains, English_, 469.
+
+  _Charlemagne_, Emperor, 325, 330.
+
+  _Charles Emanuel_ II. of _Savoy_, his finishing a Road on the _Alpes_,
+      which the _Romans_ began, 171.
+
+  _Charles_ V. Emperor, 311, 400.
+    His Declaration about the _Dutch_, 428.
+
+  ---- VI. Emperor. 328.
+    His Addresses to the Princess (the late Queen of _Great Britain_)
+        446.
+
+  _Charles_ I. King of _England_, the Window from which he walk'd to the
+      Scaffold, 435.
+    His Statue. 438.
+
+  ---- II. King of _England_, his Statue, 434.
+    His Menace of the City of _London_, 431.
+    His Design to improve St. _James_'s Park, 436.
+
+  ---- King of _Sardinia_, his dutiful Conduct towards his Father, at and
+      after his Abdication, 155.
+    His Queen, 165.
+
+  _Charni_, Marquis _de_, General, 137.
+
+  _Charolois_, Count _de_, 212 to 217.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  _Charost_, Duke _de_, 226, 227.
+
+  _Chartres_, Duke _de_, 206, 209, 268.
+
+  ---- Madem. _de_, 207.
+
+  _Chatelain_, M. _de_, 383.
+
+  _Chauvelin_, M. _de_, Keeper of the Seals, (just remov'd) 236.
+
+  _Chelles_, Abbess of, 207.
+
+  _Chesterfield_, Earl of, 403.
+
+  _Children_, 365
+    born at once, 425.
+
+  _Chimay_, Prince _de_, 318.
+
+  _Chocolate-house_, in St. _James_'s _street_, 463.
+
+  CHOISY, _t._ 188, 189.
+
+  _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, 11, 25.
+    A cruel Action of hers, 184.
+
+  _Church_, built by a Lottery, 201.
+
+  _Churchill, Arabella_, 257.
+
+  _Cibo_, Cardinal, 143.
+    _Alaric_, ibid.
+
+  _Cicero_'s, in _Italy_, what, 261.
+
+  _Cicisbei_, the Name of those who gallant the _Genoese_ Ladies, 148.
+
+  _Cienfuegos_, Cardinal, 15, 16, 17, 45, 78, 85.
+    His Dissatisfaction with the Emperor in the Affair of _Parma_, 120.
+    The Theft he committed in _Westminster_ Abbey, 440.
+
+  _Claude_, of _Lorain_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Clement Augustus_, Elector of _Cologne_, 332, 336, 342.
+    His Revenue, 337.
+    His Brothers, 341.
+    His Aggrandisement asserted to be for the Interest of Popery, 342,
+        343.
+
+  _Clement_ XI. (Pope) his Design against Cardinal _Alberoni_, 88.
+
+  ---- XII. Pope, 6.
+    His Election, 13.
+    Adoration of the Cardinals to him, 17, 18.
+    His Coronation, 19.
+    Our Author's Audience, 55.
+    His Promotion of Cardinals, 77, 78, 115.
+    His great Age and Ailments, 88.
+    His Severity, 91, 167.
+    General Character, 114.
+    Concern for losing the Duchy of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  ---- _James_, the Assassin, 269.
+
+  _Clermont_, Count _de_, 212, 216.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  CLEVES, _t._ 363.
+
+  _Cloud_, _St._ Duke of, 192.
+    Palace of, 268.
+
+  _Clovis_, King of _France_, 269.
+
+  COBLENTZ, _t._ 349.
+
+  _Coffee-Houses_, much frequented by the _English_, 463.
+
+  _Cologne_, Elector of, 213.
+    City, 332, 336.
+
+  _Colonna_, Cardinal, 15, 42.
+
+  ---- Signior, a Prelate, 122.
+
+  ---- Constable, and Family, 42, 82.
+
+  _Comedies_, _French_ and _Dutch_, 385.
+
+  _Comptroller_ General's Office in _France_, compar'd to the Post of the
+      _Grand Vizier_, 239.
+
+  _Conclave_, for the Choice of a Pope, 13, 70.
+
+  _Concord_, Temple of, at _Rome_, 35.
+
+  _Conde_, Family, 182, 208.
+    _Hon. Julius_ of _Bourbon_, Prin. 218, _Louisa Benedictina_, Princ.
+        220.
+
+  _Consistories_ of _Rome_, 81.
+
+  _Constantine_, Arch. at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  _Conti_, Cardinal, 91.
+
+  ---- Family of, 218.
+
+  ---- Princess Dowager of, 188, 217-220.
+
+  ---- _Lewis_ of _Bourbon_, Prince, his Marriage, 208, 217.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle, 209.
+
+  _Cornetto, Adrian_, Cardinal, a Design to poison him, 97.
+
+  _Cornicchini, Augustin_, the Statuary, 9.
+
+  _Coronation_ Chair, of the _English_ Sovereigns, 441.
+
+  _Corpus Christi_, Ceremonies on that Day at _Rome_, 124.
+    and at _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  _Correggio_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Corsica_, Island, more Cost than Worship to the _Genoese_, 150.
+
+  _Corsicans_, call'd the Devils of _Italy_, 143.
+    Their War with the _Genoese_, 149, _&c._
+
+  _Corsini_, Cardinal, 6.
+    His Election to be Pope, 13.
+    His Nephew, _Neri Corsini_, a Cardinal, 19, 78, 119.
+    _Bartholomew_, another, 52, 92.
+    _Philip_, his great Nephew, 44.
+    Character of his Nephews, 119.
+    Mesdames, the Popes Nieces, 69, 103, 104.
+    His Antipathy to Cardinal _Bichi_, 117.
+
+  _Cortona, Peter_, Painter, 40, 359.
+
+  _Coscia_, Cardinal, his Abuse of the Pope's Credulity, 27, 28.
+    His Bargain with _Ruspoli_'s Father, to get his Son a Cardinal's Hat,
+        77.
+    Another of his Bargains of that sort, 83.
+    His Treatment by the Popes, 89, 90, 91.
+    His Imprisonment, 91.
+
+  _Cosmo_, I. II. III. Great Dukes of _Tuscany_, 135.
+    Statue of the First, 140.
+
+  _Costa_, Auditor General of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Coster, Laurence_, of _Harlem_, 395.
+
+  _Courland_, Dukes Kettlers, 135, 136.
+
+  COURTRAY, _t._ 313.
+
+  _Craggs_, Secretary, his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Crescens_, St., Disciple of St. _Paul_, 353.
+
+  _Crumpiper, Henry_, 302.
+
+  _Culmbache, Brandenburgh_, Princess of, 307, 404.
+
+  _Cumberland_, (Prince _William_) D. of, 447.
+
+  _Cumiane_, Mademoiselle _de_, 156.
+
+  _Curtius_'s Statue, 48.
+
+  _Cyr, St._ Abbey of, 261.
+
+
+          D
+
+  _Daguesseau_, M. Chancellor, 235, 236.
+
+  _Dalberg_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Damasus_ II. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Dammartin_, Count _de_, 213.
+
+  _Dangeau_, M. _de_, 216.
+
+  _Daphne_'s Metamorphosis, 48.
+
+  _Davia_, Cardinal, 14.
+
+  _David_ with his Sling, a Statue, 48.
+
+  _Daun_, Marshal, 152, 304.
+
+  _Dauphin_, of _France_, whence that Title, 173.
+
+  _Dauphine_, 172, 173.
+
+  DELFT, _t._ 400, 425.
+
+  _Denain_, Battle, 251, 404.
+
+  _Denys_, Saint, 192.
+
+  _Devenish_, M. _de_, 314.
+
+  _Devils_ of _Italy_, who, 143.
+
+  _Devos_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Dickson_, Colonel, 314.
+
+  DIJON, _t._ 181.
+
+  _Dirce_, her Fable, 38.
+
+  _Dobelstein_, Baron _de_, 331.
+
+  _Dohna_, _Alexander de_, Count, 349.
+
+  ---- _Ferassier de_, Count, 404.
+
+  _Dombes_, Prince of, 221, 224.
+
+  ---- Principality, 179, 180, 220.
+
+  _Doria_, Cardinal, 55, 91, 116.
+
+  ---- General, 147.
+
+  _Ducks_, in abundance, 418.
+
+  DUISBOURG, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Dulis_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Dunbar_, Lord, his Station at the Pretender's Court, 58.
+    His Marriage of Princess _Sobleski_ by Proxy, 62.
+
+  _Duncan_, M. _de_, 407.
+
+  _Dunchstein_, Mineral Water, 349.
+
+  DUSSELDORF, _t_ 358.
+
+  _Dutch_, vindicated from Treachery, 368, 428.
+    Their common Food, 372.
+    Their Coffee-houses, and Comedies, 385.
+    Assemblies, 386.
+    Dress, 390.
+    Lasses, 393.
+
+  _Dyck, Van_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          E
+
+  ECHELLES, _t._ 171.
+
+  _Edward_ I. King of _England_, the Trophy he brought from _Scotland_,
+      of his Conquest, 441.
+
+  _Egmont_, Count, the Prince of _Orange_'s Farewell of him, 453.
+
+  ---- Palace in _Brussels_, 299.
+
+  _Elbeue, de_, Commandeur, the _Tuscan_ Minister, 131, 134.
+
+  _Eleanor_, of _Toledo_, Gr. Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  ---- of _Provence_, Wife to K. _Hen._ III. 435.
+
+  _Eminency_, how that Title came to the Cardinals, 86.
+
+  _Emperors, German_, their Manner of giving Audience, 215.
+
+  ENCKHUISEN, _t._ 392.
+
+  _England_'s Kings, their Power and Court, 442, 443, 444.
+    Its Soil and Climate, 470, 471.
+
+  _Englishmen_, said to be better Abroad than at Home, 326.
+    Their Manners, 453, _&c._ 463.
+    The Dress of the Courtier and the Citizen, 436, 437, 460.
+    Genius of the Nation, 442, 462.
+    Vindicated from Disaffection to their Kings, 442.
+    Applauded for defending their Rights, 443.
+    Their friendly, tho' melancholy Tempers, and their Aversion to
+        Constraint, 454, 455.
+    Their Diversions, 467, 469, 470.
+    Their Manners compared with the French 455.
+    Vindicated from Cruelty, 457, 458.
+    Their too great Freedom with Life, 459.
+    Their Womens Beauty, 460, 461.
+    Their Behaviour in Public, 461.
+    Why the _English_ are supposed to be descended from _Mutius Scavola_,
+        470.
+    An Influence of their Good-nature and Happiness, _ibid._
+    Blam'd for preferring other Countries to their own, 471.
+    Their different Living in the Country from the City, 470.
+
+  _Epernon_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Epitaph_ upon Epitaphs, 414.
+
+  _Erasmus_'s Statue, 426.
+
+  _Essex_, Earl of, his Head expos'd, 432.
+
+  _Estrades_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 401.
+
+  _Estrees_, Marshal _de_, _Victor Maria_, his Conduct, Character,
+      Dignities, Family, Estate, and his fine Diamonds, 260.
+
+  ---- _Gabriella de_, Mistress to _Henry_ IV. of _France_, 260.
+
+  _Eu_, Count _de_, 221, 225.
+
+  _Eugene_, of _Savoy_, Prince, 143, 259.
+
+  _St. Evremont_, M. his Monument, 440.
+
+  _Eysenach, Saxe_, Princess of, 446.
+
+
+          F
+
+  _Fagel, Gressier_, 406.
+
+  _Farnese, Francis_, Duke of _Parma_, 114.
+
+  _Farnese_, Palace, at _Rome_, 37.
+
+  _Faustina, Signora_, 66.
+
+  _Faustus, John_ of _Mentz_, 395.
+
+  _Fest_, Ceremony of washing them on _Holy Thursday_, 98.
+
+  _Feldtbruck_, Mademoiselle _de_, the severe Test she requir'd of her
+      Lover's Affection, 320.
+
+  _Fenelon_, Archbishop of _Cambray_, 291, 403.
+
+  ---- Brigadier and Ambassador, 403.
+
+  _Ferdinand de Medicis_, Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Ferrayo_, Cardinal, 116, 117, 118.
+
+  _Ferrero_, Cardinal, 167.
+
+  _Filippucci_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Fine Gentleman_, his Character, 462.
+
+  _Fiochi_, of the Cardinals, what it means, 83.
+
+  _Fireworks of Germany_, expensive, 187.
+
+  _Flax_, why burnt at the Pope's Coronation, 20.
+
+  _Flemings_, unsociable, 312.
+
+  _Flemish Woman_, good Topers, _ibid._
+
+  _Fleury_, Cardinal _de_, made Prime Minister, 211.
+    His Character, 228 to 235, 283.
+
+  FLORENCE, _t._ 130, _&c._
+
+  _Florentin_, Count _de St._ 237, 238.
+
+  _Flowers_, beautiful, where, 395.
+
+  FONTAINEBLEAU, Palace and Town, 184, 188.
+
+  _Fontana_, the Architect, 8, 9.
+
+  _Force_, Duke _de la_, 243.
+
+  _France_, whether 'twas her Interest to enter into the last War, 232 to
+      235.
+
+  _Francis_, I. King of _France_, 184.
+
+  _Francis de Medicis_, Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Frangipani_, Marquis, 52.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Bohemia_, 366.
+
+  ---- Elector of _Brandenburg_, 338, 362, 446.
+
+  ---- _Augustus_, King of _Poland_, 360, 361.
+
+  _Frederic_, King of _Prussia_, 361, 362, 367, 399.
+
+  _Frejus_, Bishop of, 228, 229, 230.
+
+  _French_, how they accounted for the Loss of so many Battles in the
+      last War, 153.
+    Not so modest as the Allies, 295.
+    Their Levity, 196, 197, 279.
+    Their good Qualities, 197, 275, 276.
+    Their Fashions, by whom to be followed, and by whom avoided, 460,
+        461.
+
+  _Frene_, M. _du_, a famous French Comedian, 266.
+
+  FRIBOURG, _t._ 254.
+
+  _Fridlingen_ Battle, 252.
+
+  _Frouley_, Count _de_, Ambassador, 202.
+
+  _Fugger_, Countess _de_, 348.
+
+  _Furius Camillus_, the Dictator, his Vow, 35.
+
+  _Furstenberg_, Princess, 307.
+
+
+          G
+
+  _Galen, Bernard de_, Bishop, the Terror of the _Dutch_, 343.
+
+  _Galloway_, Lord, 440.
+
+  _Gamarre_, the _Spanish_ Ambassador's Dispute with M. _de Thon_, a
+      _French_ Ambassador, about Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Gamesters_, order'd to the Gallies, 30.
+
+  _Gaming_, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  ---- One of the Plagues of the _French_ Nation, 198.
+    What their Ladies call a Man who does not play, and what the Men say
+        of Gaming in general, 199, 200.
+    How Gamesters are caress'd at many Womens Houses, and the great
+        Emoluments of Gaming, 201.
+    Who have a Grant for licensing it, _ibid._
+
+  _Gardening_, in _Italy_, declin'd, 33, 47.
+
+  _Gasse_, Count _de_, 212.
+
+  _Gaston, John_. See _Tuscany_'s Great Duke.
+
+  _Gaydon_, Major, in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Gendre, Peter le_, 175.
+
+  GENOA, _t._ 144.
+    Its Neighbourhood, 151.
+    Its Bombardment by the _French_, 144.
+    Character of the _Genoese_, 148.
+    Their War with the _Corsicans_, 149.
+
+  _Gentili_, Cardinal, 116.
+
+  _Gentlemen_, whether that Title be more due to Stage-Players, than to
+      Rope-Dancers or Tumblers, 268.
+
+  _George_ I. King 436.
+    His Statue, 438.
+    Compar'd to _Augustus_, 442.
+
+  _George_ II. King, 434, 445.
+    His Queen, 445, 446, 447.
+    Their Manner of Dining in Public, 449.
+    Drawing-Room, 456.
+
+  _Gerard, Balthasar_, the Assassin, 425.
+
+  _Gergy_, Parson of _St. Sulpice_, 202.
+
+  ---- His Brother, Bishop of _Soissons_, ibid.
+
+  ---- Another, Ambassador at _Venice_, ibid.
+
+  _Germain_, (_St._) Abbat and Friers, ibid.
+
+  _German_ Princes, wiser than the _Italian_, 128.
+
+  _Germany_, the Strength of the Protestants and Papists there, 343.
+
+  _Gevres_, Duke, 201.
+
+  GHENT, _t._ 310, 317.
+
+  _Giafferi_, Leader of the _Corsican_ Rebels, 150.
+
+  _Girard_, Father, his Affair with a Lady at Confession, 193, _&c._
+
+  _Giudici_, Cardinal, 37, 90.
+
+  _Gladiators_, Statue, 49.
+
+  _Golofskin_, Count _de_, 404.
+
+  _Golstein_, Countess _de_, 331.
+
+  _Gondrin_, Marquis _de_, 226.
+
+  _Gondulphus_, Bishop, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Gondy_, Francis _de_, Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+
+  _Gonzague_, Cardinals, their Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Goudenau_, Marshal _de_, 346.
+
+  _Grafton_, Duke, 449.
+
+  _Grammont_, Duke _de_, 199.
+
+  _Grana_, Marquis _de_, 297.
+
+  _Grantham_, Earl of, 449.
+
+  _s'Gravesande_, Professor, 397.
+
+  Great Duke of _Tuscany_, by whom the Title was invented, 135.
+
+  _Greenwich_ Hospital, 432.
+
+  _St. Gregory the Great_, Pope, 31.
+
+  _Gregory_ XIII. Pope, 32.
+
+  _Gregory_ XV. Pope, 192.
+
+  GRENOBLE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Greys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Grilli_ (Locusts) apply'd to a Family of that Name, 41.
+
+  _Grimani_, Cardinal Legate, 129, 130.
+
+  _Grosvenor_'s Square, 438.
+
+  _Guadagno_, Cardinal, 115.
+
+  _Guiccardi_, Count, 149.
+
+  _Guido_, Painter, 359.
+
+
+          H
+
+  _Hackney_, the Ceremony of presenting it to the See of _Rome_ for
+      _Naples_, 42 to 46.
+
+  HAGUE, Village, 398, _&c._
+
+  HALLE, _t._ 298.
+
+  _Handel_, the Composer, 466.
+
+  _Handkerchief_ of our Saviour, a Relique to be seen in three Places,
+      154.
+
+  _Hanover Family_, the Temper with which they received the News of their
+      Accession to the _British_ Throne, 446.
+
+  _Hapsbourg_, Count, 328.
+
+  _Harlai_, President, his Repartee to the _French_ Comedians, 267.
+
+  HARLEM, _t._ 394.
+
+  _Harrach, Frederic_, Count _de_, 303.
+
+  _Harrington_, Lord, 453.
+
+  HARWICH, _t._ 430.
+
+  _Hass_, M. the _Saxon_, 66.
+
+  _Hats_, Cardinals, why red, 86.
+
+  _Hatto_, Bishop, pursued and gnawed by Rats, 352.
+
+  _Hawitz_, Grand Marshal, 149.
+
+  _Haxhausen_, General, 332.
+
+  _Hayes_, Mr. and Mrs. styl'd Lord and Lady _Inverness_, 58, 59.
+
+  _Hazard_, Play, prohibited by the Pope, 70.
+
+  _Heidelberg_ Library, 25.
+
+  HELVOETSLUYS, _t._ 417 to 429.
+
+  _Henneberg_, Countess of. See _Holland_.
+
+  _Henry_ III. King of _France_, his Assassination, 269.
+    Ill Omens observ'd at his Consecration, _ibid._
+
+  ---- King of _England_, his Wife, 435.
+
+  ---- VIIth's Chapel, 440.
+
+  _Henry_ of _Portugal_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _St. Henry_ of _Bavaria_, Emperor, 331.
+
+  _Herenhausen_ Water-Works, 269.
+
+  _Hermaphrodite_ Statue, 49.
+
+  _Herod_, whither banish'd, 173.
+
+  _Hesse Rhinfels_, Princess of, (late) Queen of _Sardinia_, 165, 212.
+
+  ---- _Eleonora_, Duchess of _Bourbon_, her Marriage, 212.
+
+  _Hesse Cassel_, Prince _Williams_, 320.
+    Landgrave, 351.
+
+  ---- _Charles_, Landgrave, 361.
+
+  _Highwayman_'s remarkable Escape, 457.
+
+  _Hildebold_, Archbishop of _Cologn_, 327.
+
+  _Hochstet_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Hogendorp_, M. 413.
+
+  _Hohen-Zollern_, Count de, 344.
+
+  _Holland, Florence_ IV. Count of, 425.
+
+  _Holland_, Countess of, his Daughter, deliver'd of three hundred
+      sixty-five Children at a Birth, 425.
+
+  _Holy Ghost_, Picture of a Cardinal taking Aim at him with a Fusee, 17.
+
+  _Holy Week_, how observed at _Rome_, 96.
+
+  _Hompesch_, General, 399.
+
+  _Honslaerdyck_, Palace, 425.
+
+  _Hoornbeck_, Pensionary, 406.
+
+  HORNE, _t._ 392.
+
+  _Horses_, Dogs, and Falcons, where they abound most, 468.
+
+  _House_, in the Wood, 425.
+
+  _Howard_, Family of, 438.
+
+
+          I
+
+  _Jacob_'s Pillow, 440.
+
+  _Jagellon_, K. of _Poland_, 336.
+
+  _St. James_'s Palace and Park, 435, 436.
+    Square, 438.
+    Church, 439.
+
+  _James_ II. King, censur'd for neglecting a very precious Relique, 440.
+
+  _Jew, Dutch_, his Zeal for the Opera, in Opposition to an Anabaptist,
+      who was as hot for Comedy, 410, 411.
+
+  _Jews_, at _Amsterdam_, 388, 411.
+
+  _Imperiali_, Cardinal, 13, 14, 93.
+      _NB._ He dy'd in _January_ 1736-7.
+
+  _India_, Company, _Dutch_, 388.
+
+  _Infanta_ of _Spain_, sent back from _France_, 210, 211.
+
+  _Ingelheim_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Innocent_ IV. Pope, his Order about Cardinals Hats, 86.
+
+  _Innocent_ X. Pope, 90, 93.
+
+  _Inquisition_, at _Rome_, not so bad as represented, 125.
+    Congregation of the Holy Office, 126.
+
+  _Invalids_, Hospital, at _Paris_, 198.
+
+  _Inverness_, Lord and Lady, 58, 59.
+
+  _Joan_, of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Joannino_, the Duke of _Tuscany_'s _Favourite_, 132, 133.
+
+  _Johannesburg_ Wine, 352.
+
+  JOHN ST. DE MAURIENNE, _t._ 170.
+
+  _John-William_, Elector Palatine, 358, 359.
+
+  _John_ II. King of _France_, why compar'd to _Regulus_, 435.
+
+  _John_ III. King of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  _Joseph Clement_, Elector of _Cologne_, 345.
+
+  _Isis_, Goddess, and her Temple, 190.
+
+  _Italians_, their revengeful Temper, 14.
+    Jealousy and Niggardliness, 73, 74.
+    Their Disposition towards the _French_ and _Germans_, 16.
+    Their Behaviour at Executions, 110, 111, 112.
+    Their Hatred to one another, 127.
+    The Formality of settling the Interviews of their petty Princes, 128.
+    Why they are the Jest of Foreigners, _ibid._
+    Who the most polite, 139.
+
+  _Italians_, of the _Netherlands_, who, 324.
+
+  _Italy_, Devils of, who so called, 143.
+
+  _Judgement_, Day of, a remarkable Painting, 24.
+
+  JULIERS, _t._ 332, 361.
+
+
+          K
+
+  KEISERSWAERT, _t._ 347, 361.
+
+  _Keppel_, M. _de_, 407, 408.
+
+  _Kettlers_ Family, Dukes of _Courland_, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the _Medicis_ of _Tuscany_, 136.
+
+  _Keys_ of _St. Peter_, what they denote, 23.
+
+  _Kings_ of _Cologne_, 333.
+
+  _Kroon, Theodore_, Van der, 369.
+
+
+          L
+
+  _Lacqueys_, at _Paris_, the Favourites of their Ladies and young
+      Masters, 275.
+    A Conversation between those of two Cardinals, about their
+        Pre-eminence, 294.
+
+  _Lalaing_, Count _de_, 312.
+
+  _Lalock, Nassau_, Count _de_, 314, 315, 412, 413.
+
+  LANDAU, _t._ 254.
+
+  LANEBOURG, _t._ 170.
+
+  _Lansquenet_, The _French_ King's Party at that Game, 199.
+
+  _Lateran_ Church, the Ceremony of the Pope's taking Possession of it,
+      49.
+
+  _Lauzun_, M. _de_, 179.
+
+  _Law, John_, the Projector, 210, 239.
+    King of _Sardinia_'s Advice to him, 239.
+    His Death, and his Widow and Son, 240.
+    A Copy of Verses on him, 241.
+    His Coat of Arms, 243.
+    The Homage paid to him in his Prosperity, 244.
+    Description of his Person, and Remarks on his System, 245, _&c._ to
+        250, 380.
+
+  LEGHORN, _t._ the grand Appearance there on the Arrival of the
+      _Spanish_ Fleet, in which they expected Don _Carlos_, 139.
+    Description of the City, _&c._ 140, _&c._
+
+  _Leie_, Count _de la_, 350.
+
+  _Lenoirs_ Tapistry Manufacture, 308.
+
+  _Leo_ III. Pope, his Present to _Charlemain_, 99.
+
+  _Leopold_, Archduke, 342.
+
+  _Lepanto_, Victory, 43.
+
+  LERICI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Lewis d'Ors_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants, 218.
+
+  _Lewis_, the Pious, 327.
+
+  ---- Duke of _Burgundy_, 363.
+
+  _Lewis_ XIV. his Statue, _&c._ at _Lyons_, 178.
+    At _Dijon_, 181.
+    His Debt, 246.
+    His Offer to _Charles_ II. of Stones for Gravel, 437.
+
+  ---- XVth's Marriage, 185-211.
+    His Character, 203, 204.
+    His Queen and Children, 204, 205.
+
+  _Lewis_, Pr. of _Baden_, how surpriz'd by M. _Villars_, 256.
+
+  LEYDEN, _t._ 396.
+
+  ---- University, 397.
+
+  _St. Liberius_ I. Pope, 13.
+
+  _Lichtenstein_, Princess _de_, 303.
+
+  LIEGE, _t._ 321 to 324.
+
+  LIMBURG, _t._ 326.
+
+  LINTZ, _t._ 348.
+
+  _Lippe_, Count _de la_, 344.
+
+  _Liria_, Duke of, 257, 259.
+
+  LISLE, _t._ 296, 315, 316.
+
+  _Livery_, Servants at _Rome_, their poor Wages, 105.
+    The Practice of Jubileeing them, what, 106.
+    Some kept only for Sundays and Holidays, _ibid._
+
+  _Lobkowitz_, Princess, 307.
+
+  _Locusts_, in _Italy_, curs'd by the Pope and banish'd to the Sea, 41.
+
+  LONDON, _t._ 430.
+    to the End. King _Charles_ IId's Menace against this City ridicul'd
+        by one of the Aldermen, 431.
+    Its Increase since the Accession of the Present Royal Family to the
+        Crown, 439.
+
+  ---- Prov'd to be more populous than _Paris_, 190, 191.
+    It's Bridge, 432.
+    Cathedral, _ibid._
+    Monument, Burse, and Tower, 434.
+    Streets not well pav'd, 437, 438.
+    Its Diversions, 462, _&c._
+    Assemblies, 465.
+    Dances and Plays, 464 to 467.
+
+
+          M
+
+  MACON, _t._ 180.
+
+  MAESTRICHT, _t._ 319, 329
+
+  _Mailly_, Cardinal, 229.
+
+  _Maine_, Duke of, 179, 180, 181, 220, _&c._
+    Duchess, her Imprisonment, 180, 222, 223.
+    His Degradation, 209, 222.
+
+  ---- Mademoiselle _de_, 225.
+
+  _Maintenon_, Madame _de_, 261.
+    _Lewis_ XIVth's Reprimand of her for leaving him in his last
+        Sickness, 262.
+    Her Retirement, Death, Tomb and Epitaph, 162, 263, _&c._
+    Her Family and Pension to the last, 264.
+
+  ---- Who is the present Marquis, _ibid._
+
+  _Malines_, Lady of, 314.
+
+  _Malplaquet_, Battle, 253.
+
+  _Malta_, Grand Master's Title, 86.
+    His Ambassador's Reception by the Pope, 121.
+
+  _Malusius_, 340.
+
+  _Maratti, Charles_, a Designer, 32.
+
+  _Marble_, rich Quarries of it, 143.
+
+  _Mark William, de Lumay_, Count _de la_, 427.
+
+  _Marcus Aurelius Antonius_, his Equestrian Statue, for which the
+      _Venetians_ offer'd as many Sequins as could be put into the
+      Horse's Belly, 33.
+
+  _Marez_, a noted old Actress of _Lyons_, 177, 178.
+
+  _Margaretta Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _Mari_, (_Spanish_) Admiral, 137, 148.
+
+  MARIENBOURG, _t._ 336.
+
+  MARIENSTEAL, _t._ _ibid._
+
+  _Marlborough_'s Duke, and Palace, 437.
+
+  MARPURG, t. 336.
+
+  _Marquis de L----_, his Fortune made by an old Lady, 285.
+
+  _Marr_, Lady, her meeting Princess _Sobleski_, 63.
+
+  _Mary Magdalen_ of _Austria_, Duchess of _Tuscany_, 135.
+
+  _St. Mary Majors_ Church at _Rome_, 12.
+
+  _Mary de la Rovero_, Duchess of _Urbino_, 135.
+
+  _Mary de Medicis_, Regent of _France_, 145.
+
+  _Masch_, M. _de_, 404
+
+  MASSA DI CARRARA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Maternus_, Bishop, 323.
+
+  _Mathurias_, Order of, 184.
+
+  _Matilda_, Countess, 11.
+
+  _Maurepas_, Count _de_, 237.
+
+  _Maurice_, Prince, 314, 399.
+
+  _Maurice_, M. _de St._ Prime Minister, 213.
+
+  _Maurice_, Cardinal of _Savoy_, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Maximilian_ II. Emperor, his Answer to _Cosmo_ of _Tuscany_, when he
+      wanted the Title of King, 135.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Cardinal, 335.
+
+  _Mazarine_, Duchess _de_, 238, 409, 410.
+
+  MECHLIN, _t._ 317, 318.
+
+  _Medicis_, Family of, 135.
+    Their Parallel with the Family _Kettlers_, of _Courland_, 136.
+
+  _Medicis_, _Ferdinand de_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  ---- _Bernard de_, 136.
+
+  ---- _Juvence de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Octaviano de_, ibid.
+
+  ---- _Mary de_, Queen, 334.
+
+  ---- _Mary-Anne_, Electress _Palatine_, 359, 361.
+
+  MELUN, _t._ 240.
+
+  MENIN, _t._ 314.
+
+  _Mentz, Francis Lewis_, Elector of, 336, 342, 353.
+
+  ---- _Philip Charles_, Elector, 353.
+
+  MENTZ, _t._ ibid.
+
+  ---- _Francis, Lotharius_, Elector, _ibid._
+
+  _Merchants_, Difference betwixt the _English_ and Foreigners, 471.
+
+  _Mercy_, Count _de_, 255.
+
+  _Metternich_, Count _de_, 350.
+
+  _Michael Angelo_, 33, 37.
+
+  _Mignard_, the Painter, 269.
+
+  _Milan_, conquer'd, 256.
+
+  _Milciades_, an _Italian_ Game at Cards, 70.
+
+  _Mirandola, Picus de_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Misset_, M. 61, 62.
+
+  _Missisippi_ Scheme, and its Projector, Verses thereupon, 241, _&c._
+    Its Fate compar'd to that of the _South-Sea_ Scheme, 244.
+    A curious Account of it, 246 to 250.
+
+  _Misson_, Mr. his Account of the Pope's Coronation reflected on, 22.
+    His being always furnish'd with Mathematical Instruments, 141.
+
+  _Mistresses_, Generosity of the _English_ to theirs, 469.
+
+  ---- Kept in Partnership, _ib._
+
+  _Modena_, Princes of, 148.
+
+  _Molland_, Palace, 363.
+
+  _Mondragone_ Seat, near _Rome_, 48.
+
+  _Money_, the Scarcity of it in _France_, 217.
+    Worship paid to it at _Amsterdam_, 381, 382.
+
+  MONS, _t._ 297.
+
+  _Montague_ House, 439.
+
+  _Montcallier_ Castle, 152.
+
+  _Monte Cavallo_ Palace, 32.
+
+  _Montespan_, Marchioness, 188, 205, 216, 226, 264.
+
+  _Montesquiou_, Marshal, 260.
+
+  _Monti_, Marquis, the Pretender's Landlord. 58.
+
+  _Montijo_, Count _de_, 439.
+
+  _Montpensier_, Mademoiselle _de_, her Fame in the Civil Wars of
+      _France_, 179.
+    Her Restraint from marrying, _ibid._
+
+  _Montrevel_, Marshal _de_, 253.
+
+  _Monulphus_, Bishop of _Tongres_, his Ghost, 329.
+
+  _Morville_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Mouchi_, Madame _de_, 316.
+
+  _Mouths_ of the Cardinals, the Ceremony of Opening and Shutting them by
+      the Pope, 80.
+
+  _Muley Ismael_ of _Morocco_, his pretended Demand of the Princess of
+      _Conti_ in Marriage, 219.
+
+  MULHEIM, _t._ 335.
+
+  _Murder_, how punish'd at _Rome_, 74.
+
+  _Mutius Scavola_, a Conceit that the _English_ are descended from him,
+      470.
+
+
+          N
+
+  NAMUR, _t._ 317, 319.
+
+  _Naples_, the Tribute paid for it to the See of _Rome_, 43 to 46.
+
+  _Nassau_, Princes of, 309.
+
+  ---- _Zeist_, Count _de_, 367.
+
+  ---- _Orange_, Prince of, 412.
+
+  _Navona_, Square, 5.
+    The Ceremony of watering it, 66.
+
+  _Neautre_, M. _le_, 436.
+
+  _Nectarius_, Patriarch, 195.
+
+  _Nephews_ of the Popes, their general Character, 40.
+
+  _Nesle_, Marquis _de_, 309.
+
+  _Netherlands, Austrian_, Pride and Poverty of the Nobility and Gentry,
+      305, 306.
+
+  _Newbourgh, Lewis-Antony de_, 336.
+
+  ---- _Francis_, Elector of _Mentz_, 336, 342.
+
+  _Neuhoff Theodore_, Baron _de_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Neville Camillus, Nicolas_ and _Charles_, _de la_, 175.
+
+  NEUWIDT, _t._ and Count _de_, 349.
+
+  _Newcastle_, Duke of, 453.
+
+  _Newmarket_ Races, 468.
+
+  NEWPORT, _t._ 313.
+
+  NIMEGUEN, _t._ 365, 370.
+
+  _Noailles, Lewis-Antony_, Cardinal, 192, 294.
+
+  ---- Duke _de_, 207, 264.
+
+  _Noailles, Maria Victoria de_, 226.
+
+  ---- Duchess _d'Estrees_, 260.
+
+  _Nocera_, a Canon, 92.
+
+  _Nordkirchen_, Seat, 346.
+
+  _Norfolk_, Duke of, 438.
+
+  _Nostradamus_, a Prophecy of his apply'd to _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Nothast_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  NOVALAISE, _la_, _t._ 169.
+
+  _Nouvelles Ecclesiastiques_, prohibited by the Archbishops of _Paris_,
+      277.
+    Differences about it, betwixt the Court and Parliament, 277, 278.
+
+  _Nuncios_, of the Pope, 77.
+
+
+          O
+
+  _Obdam_, Count _de_, 412.
+
+  _Odyck_, M. _de_, 367.
+
+  _Oels_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Olivieri_, Cardinal, 44, 54.
+
+  _Openord, Giles Maria_, Architect, 201.
+
+  _Operas_, in _France_, the Distinction paid to the Actors, 267.
+
+  _Orange_, Palace in _Brussels_, 299, 300. at the Hague, 425.
+
+  ---- Princes of, 309, 401, 401, 412, 413, 425.
+
+  _Orbano_, R. 171.
+
+  _Orleans_, Dukes of, 173, 174, 179, 206, 207, 209, 212, 221, 229, 230,
+      236, 268, 269, 283, 292, 293, 295.
+
+  ---- Duchess, 185.
+    Dowager, 205, 206.
+    _Henrietta_, Duchess of, her Death, 269.
+    His Sisters, 207, 208.
+    _Philippa_, her Death, 208.
+    _Louisa Diana_, her Marriage and Issue, 208, 217.
+
+  ORLEANS, _t._ taken, 179.
+
+
+          P
+
+  _Pagan_ Impertinences, reviv'd in the Christian Religion, 203.
+
+  _Pain_, despis'd by our Nation, 470.
+
+  _Palatine_, Electress Dowager, 130.
+    _John-William_, Elector, 358, 359, 360.
+
+  _Pallas_, a _French_ Officer, who married both Mother and Daughter,
+      acquitted by the Inquisition, 116.
+
+  _Palmquist_, Ambassador, 405.
+
+  _Pamphili_, Princes, 6, 41, 42.
+     Palace, 41.
+
+  ---- _Camillus_, Cardinal, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+
+  _Pantheon_, at _Rome_, 7.
+
+  _Paris_, Abbe, his pretended Miracles, 195, _&c._ 284.
+
+  _Paris_, Brothers, 210, 227, 245.
+
+  PARIS, _t._ 189, _&c._
+    Whether most populous, this City, or _London_, 190, 191.
+    Number of its People, Streets, Houses, 192.
+    Expence of its Lanthorns, and its Revenues, _ibid._
+    Archbishop's Title, _ibid._
+    By whom founded, and most beautify'd, 190, 192.
+    Its Prerogatives, 192.
+    Governor, 201.
+    Lacqueys, 274, 275.
+    Parliaments, 283.
+    What _Charles_ V. meant when he said, He could put this City into his
+        Glove, 310.
+    Parliament House, 441, 442.
+
+  _Parma_, Dukes of, the Office they are to perform for the Pope, 52.
+    The Pope's Concern for the Loss of the Duchy, 114, 120.
+
+  _Patricians_, of _Germany_, 333, 334.
+
+  _Paul_ III. Pope, 38, 40.
+    His Order about the Cardinals Caps, 86.
+    His Establishment of the Inquisition, 126.
+
+  ---- IV. Pope, the Solicitor of it, _ibid._
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 32, 47, 48.
+
+  _Peasants, English_, their Happiness, 471.
+
+  _Pericon_, M. Magistrate at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _Perauss_, Count _de la_, 161, 162, 163.
+
+  _Peter, St. d'Arena_ Suburbs of _Genoa_, 148.
+
+  _Peter, St._ why describ'd as holding three Keys, 23.
+    His Church and Chair, at _Rome_, 7 to 12.
+    Who buried in it, 11.
+    His Miracles, what, 39.
+
+  PETITBOURG, _t._ 188.
+
+  _Petits Colets_, the Petits Maitres of _Rome_, 70, 73.
+
+  _Petronilla_, St. 11.
+
+  _Peyrome_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+
+  _Phaethon_'s, Story finely painted, 439.
+
+  _Pharao_, plaid in the Conclave of Cardinals, 70.
+
+  _Philibert_, Prince of _Piedmont_, his submissive Speech to _Phillip_
+      IV. King of _Spain_, 145.
+
+  _Philips_, Mr. Preceptor to the Duke, 448.
+
+  _Philipsburg_, Siege of, 259.
+
+  _Picus, de Mirandola_, Cardinal, 53.
+
+  _Piedmontese_, their Court and Character, 165, 166, 168.
+
+  PIETRA SANTA, _t._ 142.
+
+  _Pignatelli_, Cardinal, 86.
+
+  _Pilate_, whither banish'd, 173.
+
+  _Pilgrims_, Hospital at _Rome_, 76.
+
+  _Pin, Joseph_, Painter, 359.
+
+  PISA, _t._ 141.
+    Pride of the People, _ibid._
+
+  _Pius_ V. Pope, 80, 126.
+
+  _Pizzighitone_, taken, 255.
+
+  _Platen_, Count _de_, Post-master of _Hanover_, 238.
+    His Daughter's Marriage and Pension from King _George_ I. and II.
+        238.
+
+  _Plettenburg_, Count _de_, 341, 344, 345, 346.
+
+  _Polignac_, Cardinal, 85.
+
+  PONT DE BONVOISIN, _t._ 172.
+
+  _Pontchartrain_, M. _de_, Chancellor, 235, 237.
+
+  _Ponthievre_, Duke _de_, 226.
+
+  _Popelsdorf_, Village, 340.
+
+  _Popes_, the Days on which the Cardinals kiss their Feet, 17.
+    Character of their Nephews, 40.
+    Reception of Ambassadors, 121.
+
+  _Pope_, who was the first that was crown'd, 22.
+    Compar'd to the Holy Sepulchre, 29.
+
+  _Portail_, M. _de_, President, 249.
+
+  _Portland_, Earl of, 408.
+
+  _Portugal_, _Henry_, Cardinal of, his Resignation of the Hat, 87.
+    Its broils with the Court of _Rome_, 116 to 119.
+
+  _Poultier_, M. Intendant at _Lyons_, 176.
+
+  _P----y, William_, 451.
+
+  _Poyntz, Stephen_, Esq, 448.
+
+  _Pragmatic Sanction_, 403.
+
+  _Prebends_, bought and sold, 369.
+
+  _Precedence_, Disputes about it betwixt Ambassadors, 400 to 403.
+
+  _Pretender_, his Pension and Honours from the Pope, 57, 58.
+    His Landlord, Courtiers, and Domestics, Style, and Stature, and his
+        Sons, 58, 59.
+    His Treatment from the Imperial and _French_ Cardinals, 58.
+    His Aspect and Character, 59.
+    His Mistress, _ibid._
+    His Protestant Chapel, and Table, _ibid._
+    His Wife, 60, 61.
+    Prophecy of his coming to the _British_ Throne, 63.
+
+  _Preys_, M. 405.
+
+  _Prie_, Marchioness, 166, 227, 304.
+
+  _Priests_, _Italian_, a heavy Charge against them, 112.
+
+  ---- _Flemish_, always railing at one another, 314.
+
+  _Printing_, where invented, 395.
+
+  _Procession_ Chair, of the Popes, 17.
+
+  _Prussia_, _Ducal_ or _Brandenburg_, 336.
+    _Fredric_, K. of, 338.
+
+  _Pucelage_, its Meaning, 284.
+
+  _Pucelle_, a Counsellor, banish'd from the Parliament at _Paris_, 282,
+      283.
+    Verses on his Exile, 284.
+
+  _Pussenburg_, Baron _de_, 296.
+
+  _Puppet-player_, burnt for a Conjurer, 385.
+
+  _Purpora_, the Singer, 66.
+
+  _Pyrrhus_'s Saying, after he had defeated the _Romans_, 253.
+
+
+          Q
+
+  _Q----y_, Duke of, his Behaviour on the Duchess's being forbid the
+      Court, 444.
+
+  QUIERI, _t._ 151.
+
+  _Quinaut_, the famous Comedian, 266.
+
+
+          R
+
+  _Rabutyn_, _Bussy_'s, Letters, 181, 443.
+
+  _Raby_, Lord, his Amour, 410.
+
+  _Race_, run round St. _James_'s Park, by a naked Man, 470.
+
+  _Ramillies_, Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+  _Raphael_, Painter, 24, 359.
+
+  _Rastadt_, Treaty, 254.
+
+  _Ratisbon_, _Theodore_, Bishop of, 349.
+
+  _Rats_, Tower in the _Rhine_, 352.
+
+  _Ratto_, Signior, 4.
+    Bishop of _Cordoua_, 85.
+
+  _Regulas, John_ II. K. of _France_ compar'd to him, 435.
+
+  _Reimbrants_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Reliques_, at _Aix_, the Time and Manner of exposing them, 329, 330.
+
+  _Remi_, (S.) a noted Better at the _French_ Court, 199, 200.
+
+  _Restitution_, by the Popes, what, 88.
+
+  _Retirement_, Verses in Praise of it, 223.
+
+  _Retz_, Duke of, 174.
+
+  _Rhebinder_, Marshal, 158, 159, 166.
+
+  RHEIMS, _t._ 269.
+
+  RHEN, _t._ 366.
+
+  _Rhenish_ Wine, where the best, 352.
+
+  RHINBECK, _t._ 347.
+
+  _Rhine_, R. 349.
+
+  _Rhinfields_ Castle, 351.
+
+  _Richardi_, Marquis, and his Son Don _Vincenzo_, 134.
+
+  _Richelieu_, Cardinal's Ingratitude to Q. _Mary de Medicis_, 334, 335.
+
+  _Richmond_, Duchess, 409.
+
+  _Ridelsheim_, Wine, 352.
+
+  _Rinuccini_, Marquis, 132, 134, 137.
+
+  _Ripperda_, Duke _de_, 296.
+
+  _Rivoli_ Castle, 158.
+
+  _Robbery_, on the Highway, remarkable, 457.
+
+  _Robert_, (the Pious) K. of _France_, 98.
+
+  _Rochebonne_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+
+  _Roche, Sur-yon_, Mademoiselle _de la_, 218.
+
+  _Rodolph_ I. Emperor, a miraculous Appearance at his Coronation, 327,
+      328.
+
+  _Roer_, River, 332.
+
+  _Rohan_, Cardinal, 186.
+
+  ---- Prince, 205.
+
+  _Roll_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Rolling_, Baron _de_, 354.
+
+  _Romain, Julius_ Painter, 359.
+
+  _Roman_ Princes, their high Pretensions, 102, 104.
+
+  ---- Princesses and Popes Nieces more humble than formerly, 103.
+    How they are lighted to the Plays, 105.
+    Their unwieldy Coaches, and scrub Liveries, 106.
+    Why they never wear Mourning, 108.
+
+  ROME, _t._ Manners of the People, 67, 72, 73, 406.
+    Its Squares, 2, _&c._
+    Churches, 6, _&c._
+    Palaces, 24, _&c._ 36, _&c._
+    Theatres, 65.
+    Their Diversions and Repasts, 68, 69.
+    Our Author's Dislike of this City, 68, 72.
+    Why young Gentlemen ought to visit it, 72.
+    Its Hospitals, 76.
+    Consistories, 81.
+    The Time when all Ceremonies are laid aside, 105.
+    Their Funerals, 107, 108.
+    Mourning, 108.
+    Their Fireworks, 109.
+    Its Governor, 109, 110.
+    Senator, 110.
+    Executions, 111, 113.
+    Their Hatred of other _Italians_, 127.
+
+  _Rota_, Tribunal of, 109.
+
+  _Rotonda_ Church, 7.
+
+  ROTTERDAM, _t._ 426.
+
+  _Rubempre_, Prince and Princess _de_, 300, 309.
+
+  _Rubens_, Painter, 317, 358, 359.
+
+  _Ruhi_, Marquis _de_, 318.
+
+  _Ruspanti_, Pensioners, why so call'd, 133.
+
+  _Ruspoli_, Signior, his Promotion to be a Cardinal, 77 to 80.
+
+  ---- Prince's, Funeral, 108.
+
+  _Rysnic_, 370, 425.
+
+
+          S
+
+  _Sacrament_, Holy, the Grandeur and Solemnity of the Pope's Procession
+      with it, 124, and of the Parish of _St. Sulpice_ in _France_, 202.
+
+  _Saltzu, Herman de_, 336.
+
+  _Salviati_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Santa Croce_, Prince of, 42.
+
+  SANTEN, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Santini_, Marquis, 341.
+
+  _Santa-Buona_, Duke, 60.
+
+  _Sardam_, Village, 389.
+
+  _Sardini_, Prelate, his Imprisonment, 92.
+
+  _Sardinia_, K. the Pope's Grant to him, _ibid._
+
+  _Sardinia, Victor Amedeus_ late K. of, his Abdication and Imprisonment,
+      156 to 164.
+    Son's Duty to him, 157 to 164.
+
+  _Sarno_, Duke of, 136.
+
+  SARZANA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Sastago_, Count _de_, 318.
+
+  _Savoy_, Duchess of, 156.
+    Palace in the _Strand_, 435.
+
+  _Savoy_, Princes of, 435.
+
+  _Savoyards_, Character, 171.
+
+  _Saurin_, M. 414.
+
+  _Saxony_, _John George_ IV. Elector of, 446.
+
+  _Scaliger_'s Character of _Lyons_, 173.
+
+  _Scarlet_, why the Cardinals Robes and Caps are of that Colour, 86.
+
+  _Scarron, Paul_, the Poet, who was Madame _de Maintenon_'s Husband,
+      264.
+
+  _Schasberg_, Count _de_, 361.
+
+  _Scheld_ River, 3.
+
+  SCHEVELING, _t._ 400.
+
+  SCHLANGENBADT, _t._ 357.
+
+  _Schourff_, Baron _de_, 346.
+
+  _Schouts_, _Dutch_, 376.
+
+  SCHWALBACH, _t._ and Waters, 356.
+
+  _Schwartzo_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Sculpture_, not the best in _London_, 434.
+
+  _Seaux_, the Duke of _Maine_'s Seat, 223.
+
+  _Schonborn_, Countess _de_, 350.
+
+  ---- _Francis-George_, Count _de_, Bishop of _Triers_, 350.
+
+  ---- Bishops of _Spires_, and _Bamberg_, 350, 353.
+
+  _Sebastian, St._ Marchioness _de_, 156, 157, _&c._ 160, 162, 164.
+
+  ---- K. of _Portugal_, 87.
+
+  ---- _St._ t. taken, 258.
+
+  _Seignelay_, Marquis of, his Bombardment of _Genoa_, 144.
+
+  _Senator_, of _Rome_, 110.
+
+  _Seneca_'s Statue, 49.
+
+  _Senesino_, the Singer, 466.
+
+  _Senez_, Bishop of, 240.
+
+  SENS, _t._ 183.
+    Mademoiselle _de_, 217, 218.
+
+  SERSARA, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Servants_, the Custom of treating 'em in _England_, ridiculed, 465.
+
+  SESTRI, _t._ 143.
+
+  _Ships_, the Difference betwixt the _English_ and _Spaniards_, and
+      those of three Decks, and two, 138.
+
+  _Sinzendorf_, Count, 232, 403.
+
+  ---- Countess, her Conversion to Popery by a Flash of Lightning, 149.
+
+  _Sixtus_ IV. his Power as to Hell and Purgatory, 25.
+
+  ---- V. Pope, 8, 9, 25, 31.
+
+  _Skates, Dutch_, describ'd, 384.
+
+  _Slingeland_, the (late) Grand Pensionary of _Holland_, 406.
+
+  _Smith, Richard_, Bookbinder, and his Wife, their tragical Catastrophe,
+      270, _&c._
+    Their Apology for killing themselves and their Child, and the
+        Confession of their Faith, 271, 272.
+
+  _Snow_, in _August_, 13.
+
+  _Sobieski_, Prince and Princess. 61, 63.
+    Her Arrest, as she went to be marry'd to the Pretender, 61.
+    Her Escape, 61, 62.
+    Her Reception at _Rome_ by Lady _Marr_, &c. and the Cardinals, 63.
+    Her Death, _ibid._
+
+  _Sodomite_, the pert Answer of one to a Cardinal, 112.
+
+  _Soissons_, Congress, 295, 296.
+
+  _Solare_, Chevalier _de_, 162, 163, 164.
+
+  SPA, _t._ and Waters, 325.
+    Great Resort to it, 326.
+
+  _Spain_, Q. Dowager of _Lewis_ I. her Marriage, and her silent Visit
+      from _Lewis_ XV. 207.
+    Her Retirement to a Convent. 208.
+
+  _Spaniards_ Arrival at _Leghorn_, 134, 136, 137.
+    Comparison between their Officers and Ships, and the _English_, 138.
+
+  _Sparr_, Baron _de_, 346, 347.
+
+  _Speik_, Madame _de_, 361.
+
+  _Spigo_, Marquisate, and Marchioness, 157, 158, 160.
+
+  _Spinola, John Baptist_, Cardinal, 130.
+
+  _Spork_, M. _de_, 405.
+
+  _Stadthouse_, at _Amsterdam_, 377 to 380.
+
+  _Stage_ Players, the extravagant Respect paid to 'em in _France_, 266,
+      _&c._
+    A Joke put upon them by President _Harlai_, 267.
+
+  _Stampa_, General, 120.
+
+  _Stein_, Baron, 311.
+
+  _Stilletto_, the frequent Use of it at _Rome_, 73, 74.
+
+  _Stoves, Dutch_, describ'd, 372.
+
+  _Strafford_, Earl of, 438, 451, 452.
+    His prophetical Conversation with the D. of _Ormond_, 453.
+
+  _Strappa Corda_, what, 111.
+
+  _Strickland_, Bishop, 319.
+
+  _Strozzi_, Duke, 52.
+
+  _Suarez_, Madame, 135.
+
+  _Sudarini_, Marquis, his Present of a fine Coach to his
+      Daughter-in-law, 106.
+
+  _Sulpice, St._ the Parson's, Lottery, 201.
+    His Parsonage a fat one, 202.
+    Its Seminary, _ibid._
+
+  _Surnames_, the Moderns blamed for not giving them to their Heroes as
+      well as the Ancients, 251.
+
+  SUSA, _t._ 168.
+
+
+          T
+
+  _Tallard_, Duchess, 205, 211.
+
+  _Tancin_, Archbishop of _Ambrun_, 240.
+
+  _Tapistry_ Manufactures, 308.
+
+  _Targa_, Bp. Cardinal _Coscia_'s Brother, 91.
+
+  _Tavannes_, Count _de_, 182.
+
+  _Taverns, English_, better than the _French_, 465.
+
+  _Tenebra_, a fine Piece of Music, 96.
+
+  _Terrasson_, Abbe, 243.
+
+  _Teutonic_ Order, Masters of it, 326.
+
+  _Texeria_, a _Jew_, 411.
+
+  _Thames_ River, 431, 432.
+
+  _Theatres_ at _Paris_, better open'd than shut, 385.
+
+  _Theodore_, Baron _de Neuhoff_, proclaim'd K. of _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  _Tholouse_, Count _de_, and Countess, 199, 220, 221, 226.
+    Her Sister, 260.
+
+  _Thou_, M. _de_, Ambassador, his Dispute with a _Spaniard_ about
+      Precedency, 400.
+
+  _Tingry_, Prince _de_, 296.
+
+  _Tintoret_, Painter, 359.
+
+  TIRLEMONT, _t._ 319.
+
+  _Titian_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Titus_'s Arch at _Rome_, 34.
+
+  TONGRES, _t._ 323.
+
+  _Torcy_, M. _de_, 237.
+
+  _Tour_ and _Taxis_, Prince and Princess, 306, 307, 308.
+    His Mother and Children, 307.
+
+  _Tour, Humbert de la_, 172, 173.
+
+  _Touraine, la_, 216.
+
+  _Tranquillity_, Christian, a Poem, on the Disputes of the Times, 279.
+
+  _Treaties_ of Peace, three concluded successively in the Dominions of
+      the _Dutch_, 370.
+
+  _Tremouille_, Cardinal _de_, 215.
+
+  TREVOUX, _t._ 179, 180.
+
+  _Triers, Francis-George_, Count _de Schonborn_, the present Bishop,
+      350, 351.
+
+  _Triple Crown_, by what Pope first worn, 22.
+
+  _Trotti_, Marquis _de_, 346.
+
+  _Tuilleries_, in _France_, Garden, 436.
+
+  _Tulip-Root_, of great Value, 395.
+
+  TURIN, _t._ 152.
+    Its University, 167.
+    Its Siege, 152, 153.
+
+  _Tuscans_, the great Hopes they entertained of _Don Carlos_, 139.
+
+  _Tuscany_'s Great Duke, his Manner of giving Audience in Bed, with his
+      Lap-Dogs, and his hearty Reception of our Author, 131, 132, 134.
+    His Indolence in his Bed-chamber, and Deshabille, 133.
+    His Kindness to Pilgrims, and Fondness for the _Germans_, ibid.
+    His Pensioners and Paymaster, _ibid._
+    Who influenced him to recognise Don _Carlos_ for his Successor, 134.
+
+  _Twicked, Wassenaer de_, 412.
+
+  _Tyburn_ Executions, 458, 459.
+
+
+          V
+
+  _Vahal_, River, 365.
+
+  _Val de Grace Church_, 198.
+
+  VALENCIENNES, _t._ 296.
+
+  _Valere_, Mademoiselle _de_, 188, 219.
+
+  _Valois, Philip de_, 172.
+
+  _Vander Borg_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Vander Duin_, Messieurs, 408.
+
+  _Vandyke_, 359.
+
+  _Varengeville, Joanna de_, Wife of the Marshal _Villars_, 255.
+
+  _Vatican_ Palace, 24, 31.
+
+  ---- Library, 25.
+
+  _Vauhan_, M. Engineer, 315.
+
+  _Vayrac_, Abbe, the Author, 273.
+    His pleasant Rencounter with a pert Coxcomb of a Counsellor, 273,
+        274.
+    His Plagiarism, 274.
+
+  _Vendosme_, Duke de, 253. Why he has not left his Fellow, 254.
+
+  _Venerie Castle_, 155.
+
+  _Venice_ and _Amsterdam_ compar'd, 371.
+
+  _Ventadour_, Duke and Duchess _de_, 205, 334.
+
+  _Vermillon_'s Tapistry, 308.
+
+  _Veronese, Paul_, Painter, 359.
+
+  _Versailles_ Park, 436.
+
+  _Vespasian_'s Amphitheatre, 35.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Count _de_, 403.
+
+  _Uhlefeldt_, Mademoiselle _de_, her unhappy Fate in the Fire at
+      _Brussels_, 301, 403.
+
+  VIAREGGIO Forest and Village, 141, 142.
+
+  _Victor_, King of _Sardinia_, his Abdication and Imprisonment, 155 to
+      164.
+    His Advice to the famous _John Law_, 239.
+    His Treaty with _France_ and _Spain_, 252.
+
+  _Vienna_ Treaty, 296.
+
+  VIENNE, _t._ 173.
+
+  _Villars_, Marshal de, _Francis Hector_, 250 to 256.
+    Our Author's smart Answer to him, when he boasted of his Clemency at
+        _Denain_, 251.
+    His Invention of a Surname for the Marshal, which put him in good
+        Humour, 252.
+    His Creation as Marshal of _France_, _ib._
+    His Conduct in the _Cevennois_ and in _Flanders_, 253.
+    His Preferment to the Government of _Provence_, and his Compliment to
+        the Memory of his deceased Predecessor, 254.
+    His remarkable Expressions to the _French_ King, when he went to the
+        Command in _Germany_, and when he had purchas'd an Estate,
+        _ibid._
+    His Command, Sickness and Death, in _Italy_, 255.
+    His Family and Character, _ibid._ 256.
+    His nimble Trip from a Ball to a Battle, _ibid._
+    A Sonnet made on him when he set out last for _Italy_, _ibid._
+    His Scruple to accept of a Commission to act against the King of
+        _Spain_, 258.
+
+  _Villeroy_, M. 174, 178, 229.
+    The Family, _ibid._ 175.
+
+  _Vinci, Leonard_, 66.
+
+  _Vintimille_, N. N. Archbishop of _Paris_, 192.
+    His Concern for the Goodness of his Mutton, greater than for that of
+        the Pasture of his Sheep, 193.
+    His equal Respect to different Orders, and an Epigram upon his
+        Mandate, in favour of the _Constitution Unigenitus_, 193.
+
+  _Viol_, holy, at _St. Rheims_, the Story of it, 269, 270.
+
+  _Visconti_, Count _de_, and Countess, 300, 302, 307, 308.
+
+  _Vitriarius_, Professor, 397.
+
+  _Voisin_, M. Secretary at War, 235.
+
+  _Voltaire_, the Poet, his Tragedy of _Brutus_ admir'd, 265.
+    Criticis'd, 266, 467.
+
+  _Urban_ V. Pope, 22.
+
+  _Urban_ VIII. Pope, his Order about the Cardinals Title, 86.
+
+  _Vrilliere_, M. Secretary of State, 209, 237, 238.
+
+  ---- Madame _de_, 238.
+
+  _Ursini_, Cardinal, his Election to be Pope, 26, 27.
+
+  _Ushers_ of the Pope, their Privilege, 81.
+
+  UTRECHT, _t._ 367, 368, _&c._
+
+  ---- its Walls resembling those of Jericho, 368.
+    _Lewis_ XIV. afraid of its Cellars, _ibid._
+
+  _Uxelles_, Marshal de, 354.
+
+
+          W
+
+  _Wager_, Admiral's Arrival at _Leghorn_, whither he convoy'd the
+      _Spaniards_, 136.
+
+  _Waldeck_, Prince, 21, 57.
+
+  _Wales_, _Frederic_, Pr. of, 447.
+
+  _Wallingford_, Ld. his Marriage, 240.
+
+  _Walpole_, Sir _Robert_, 450, 451.
+
+  _Walpol_, Baron _de_, 350.
+
+  _Walrave_, Colonel, 362.
+
+  _Wartemberg_, Countess de, 409, 410.
+    Her innumerable Adventures of Gallantry, 409.
+
+  _Wassenaars_, of _Holland_, 412.
+
+  _Water-works_, finer than those of _St. Cloud_, 269.
+
+  _Watteville_, Mademoiselle de, 311.
+
+  _Welderen_, Count _de_, 407, 408, 409.
+
+  _Werf, Vander_, a Painter, 359.
+
+  WESEL, _t._ 362.
+
+  _Westminster_ Abbey and Palace, 440, 441.
+
+  _Wetzler_ Chamber, 324.
+
+  _Whitehall_, Palace, 435.
+
+  _Whitworth_, Lady, her smart Rebuke of Cardinal _Corsini_, for
+      pretending to meddle with Houshold Affairs at _Cambray_ Congress,
+      119.
+
+  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assassination, 425.
+
+  _William_ III. Prince of _Orange_'s Dispute for Precedency with the
+      Count _d'Estrades_, 401.
+
+  ---- Disputes adjusted relating to his Succession, 405, 406.
+
+  ---- _Charles-Henry_, Prince of, 412, 413.
+
+  _Windmills_ of _Holland_, 389.
+
+  _Windsor_ Palace, by whom built, 450.
+
+  _Wirtemberg_, _Lewis_, Pr. of, his, saying to the _Genoese_, about
+      _Corsica_, 150.
+
+  ---- _Alexander_, Pr. of, 307.
+
+  _Wogan_, Mr. in the Pretender's Service, 61, 62.
+
+  _Wolffgang de Neubourgh_, Duke, 359.
+
+  _Wolsey_, Cardinal 450.
+
+  _Women_ Lying-in, a Protection to their Husbands, 396.
+
+  _Worms_, fatal to the Dykes of _Holland_, 392, 393.
+
+  _Wrangel_, Marshal _de_, 309.
+
+  _Wurmbrand_, Count _de_, ibid.
+
+  _Wuytiers Barkman_, Bp. of _Utrecht_, 369.
+
+  _Wynendale_ Battle, to what the _French_ ascribe the Loss of it, 153.
+
+
+          Z
+
+  ZEIST, _t._ 367.
+
+  ---- Count _de_, 412, 413.
+
+  _Zuchro_, Painter, 39.
+
+  _Zumjungen_, Marshal _de_, 308, 309.
+
+                                _FINIS._
+
+
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[1] His Eminency died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, after which,
+Signior _Thomas Ratto_, and _Ottinelli_, heretofore Auditor of the
+_Rota_, and now Bishop of _Cordoua_, had the Care of the _Spanish_
+Affairs, in which he was succeeded by Cardinal _Acquaviva_.
+
+[2] Now Pope _Clement_ XII. whose Nephews and Nieces dwell in it.
+
+[3] The last Hackney that was presented on the Part of the House of
+_Austria_, was deliver'd by the Prince of _Santa Croce_, whom the
+Emperor appointed for that Ceremony, because _Spain_ having conquer'd
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, the Constable was not willing to concern
+himself in the Affair, before it was finally decided. This was in the
+Year 1734.
+
+[4] He is now a Cardinal and Archbishop of _Benevento_.
+
+[5] This Princess, who was born _July_ 6. 1702. O. S. died _Jan._ 7.
+1735.
+
+[6] As the Baron above three Years since durst not venture much Money on
+the fulfilling of this Prophecy, we may now say it is not worth a
+Farthing.
+
+[7] His Eminency is return'd to _France_, and succeeded in his Embassy
+by the Duke of _St. Aignan_.
+
+[8] The Death of this Cardinal has been already mention'd. His Successor
+is M. _Ratto_, Bishop of _Cordoua_.
+
+[9] _Henry_ was Son to King _Emanuel_, and _Sebastian_ was Grandson of
+_John_ III. Brother to the Cardinal _Henry_.
+
+[10] He did it however in the Year 1733.
+
+[11] Since these Letters were wrote, he is actually return'd, and
+hitherto he is come but poorly off. Tho' his Fate be not yet intirely
+determin'd, 'tis certain that he will not be degraded. A Sentence has
+been pass'd upon him, and ratify'd, whereby he is declar'd
+excommunicate, and out of a Possibility of being absolv'd, but by the
+Pope, even _in articulo mortis_; he is also to be confin'd in a
+Fortress, depriv'd of the Power of Speaking or Voting, _&c._ But as
+_omnia venalia Roma_, even more now than in _Jugurtha_'s Time, the
+Cardinal _del Gindici_, who is a Friend of his Eminency _Coscia_, gave
+him to understand, that the Pope was resolv'd to treat him as a Grand
+_Vizier_ in Disgrace; that he must absolutely refund, and that all his
+Sins shou'd be blotted out. Consequently his Eminency submitted to
+implore his Holiness's Clemency, on Condition of paying well for it; and
+in fine, his Pardon has been tax'd at thirty thousand Ducats. He has
+clamour'd against it not a little; but the Holy Father wou'd not abate
+an Ace of it, and the Cardinal was forc'd to acquiesce; however, as he
+always watches for the Death of the Pope, he desir'd to pay it at
+several Terms; and upon depositing ten thousand Crowns down, he
+immediately receiv'd Absolution, his Guards were taken off, and he had
+Liberty granted him to walk about in the Castle of _St. Angelo_, and to
+converse there with his Brother the Bishop of _Targa_. He pleads
+Poverty, and shuffles off his Payments from one time to another, in
+constant Expectation that the Gout will rise into the Pope's Stomach,
+and take him out of his Way. At length, in 1734, he paid down ten
+thousand Crowns more. But a Collector of Taxes, from whom he formerly
+receiv'd a great Present to procure him an Acquittance from the Chamber,
+to which he ow'd seventy thousand Crowns, died lately insolvent, and
+without making good the Fraud; and as _Caesar_, they say, _loses
+nothing_, the Chamber comes upon Cardinal _Coscia_, who is condemn'd to
+pay this Deficiency too, and the Pope won't hear any Talk of compounding
+it.
+
+[12] He Afterwards created him a Cardinal; but he died at _Benevento_ in
+1733. Nobody after his Death wou'd accept of this Benefice, till the
+Pope gave it to the Abbat _Conti_, a _Roman_, who only took it upon
+Condition that his Holiness wou'd give him a red Hat to boot; which he
+did accordingly, at the last Promotion of Cardinals.
+
+[13] It was publish'd in the News-papers of 1732, that this Gentleman
+was sentenc'd to be beheaded, but that his Holiness had commuted that
+Sentence to ten Years Imprisonment. It was afterwards said in the public
+News, that the Pope had shorten'd it, first, to seven Years, and then to
+three Years Imprisonment. At length the Pope was for removing him to
+_Perousa_, or elsewhere; but the Prelate wou'd not go, and said, If he
+cou'd not have his intire Liberty, he wou'd live and die in the Castle
+of _St. Angelo_.
+
+[14] The Origin of this Ceremony, if we may believe Father _Sirmond_ and
+_Ciccarelli_, was this: It comes from a Custom they had at _Rome_, of
+distributing to the People upon every _Whitsunday_ the Remainder of the
+Paschal Wax-taper, which was consecrated on _Holy Saturday_. The Vulgar,
+who are always superstitious, appropriated several Virtues to this
+consecrated Wax, particularly that 'twas a Preservative against the
+Delusions of the Devil, and the Injuries of Lightning, _&c._ and they
+us'd to burn little Pieces of this Wax in their Houses. There being not
+enough left of the Paschal Wax-taper to satisfy the Cravings of the
+People, the Archdeacon took it into his Head to take some other Wax,
+which he sprinkled with Oil, bless'd it, and made little Bits of it in
+the Form of a Lamb, and then distributed them to the People. Afterwards
+they only flatted those Pieces of Wax, and impress'd 'em with the Stamp
+of a Lamb bearing the Standard of the Cross. They believe that none but
+such as are in Orders have the Power to touch them, and they are cover'd
+neatly with embroider'd Stuff to be given to the Laity. There is nothing
+by which the Monks more successfully impose upon the Credulous; for to
+such they distribute _Agnus Dei_'s that were never on t'other Side of
+the _Alps_.
+
+[15] He is the Pope's Vicechamberlain.
+
+[16] When he was at the Congress at _Cambray_, he had a Fancy to regulate
+every Plenipotentiary's Houshold; and indeed, that was all he did there.
+One Day he took it into his Head to give his [OE]conomical Rules at my
+Lord _Whitworth_'s, but he did not find my Lady very compliant; for, said
+she, M. _le Marquis, We make use of the +Italians+ to regulate our
++Concerts+; but as for the Table, pray give us leave to consult the
++French+._
+
+[17] Cardinal _Grimani_ succeeded Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ in the
+Legateship of _Bologna_, as soon as the present Pope had created him a
+Cardinal; but he died in the Legateship, and his Holiness conferr'd it
+upon _John Baptist Spinola_, whom he had just before advanc'd to the
+Purple.
+
+[18] Nevertheless there is a Difference between these two Families: The
+Duke _Ferdinand_ the last Survivor of that of _Kettler_, but of the
+Family of _Medicis_ there are Princes still living, who have an
+incontestable Right to the Succession; for 'tis certain, that _Bernard
+de Medicis_, the eldest Brother of Pope _Leo_ XI. descended from
+_Juvenco de Medicis_, Brother of _Sylvester Clarissimus_, the Head of
+the present reigning Branch, which _Bernard de Medicis_ was the Son of
+_Ottaviano_, the last Standard-bearer of _Florence_ in 1528. This
+_Bernard_ purchas'd the Barony of _Ottajano_ near Mount _Vesuvius_ in
+the Kingdom of _Naples_, to which he transferr'd this Branch of the
+_Medicis_; and the present Prince of _Ottajano_, and Duke of _Sarno_,
+who married _Theresa_, Daughter of _Charles_ Prince of _Acquaviva_, is
+his Great Great Grandson.
+
+[19] The Count _de Charni_ signs N. _d'Orleans C. de Charni_. He is a
+Bastard of the _Orleans_ Family, but by whom is not known. He has
+advanc'd himself at the Court of _Spain_, and is now Commandant of
+_Naples_, and Lieutenant-General of the Kingdom.
+
+[20] This Prince went thro' _France_, and arriv'd at _Florence_ the
+Beginning of the Year 1732.
+
+[21] This young Prince died in 1734, as his illustrious Uncle did in the
+Year following.
+
+[22] The _Spaniards_ took it at the Beginning of the War, and 'twas the
+first of their Exploits.
+
+[23] _Giafferi_ did all he could; but was obliged to submit to Force,
+the Republic being assisted by the Troops which the Emperor had
+assembled in _Lombardy_, to oppose the Enterprizes he was then
+apprehensive of from the _Spaniards_. _Giafferi_ was arrested, but by a
+great deal of Art and Cunning he obtain'd his Freedom, after the
+_Genoese_ thought the _Corsicans_ were disarmed, destitute of Leaders,
+and reduced to a Sense of their Duty; and he retired to _Tuscany_. But
+the _Corsicans_ being no better treated than they were before their
+Accommodation, took up Arms again, upon which _Giafferi_ procured them
+all manner of Assistance, and actually returned to that Island, and put
+himself at the Head of the Malecontents, who seemed to have a fair
+Chance of regaining their Liberties. They were so uppish in Expectation
+of foreign Assistance, that they rejected some new Concessions made to
+them by the _Genoese_, in _Dec, 1734_, declar'd _Aitelli_ General of the
+Forces, and one _Costa_, a Man of great Intrigues, General-Auditor of
+the Island; and, at the same time, made Proposals to the King of _Spain_
+to take them under his Protection, having renounced all Subjection to
+the Republic of _Genoa_, declar'd themselves a free and independent
+People, and resolv'd to defend their Liberties to the last Man. At
+length they receiv'd some Recruits of Money and Ammunition by one
+_Theodore_, who call'd himself the Baron _de Neuhoff_, and arriv'd in
+_March_ 1736. on Board an _English_ Ship from _Tunis_; but in the Name
+of what Power he acted, is as yet a Mystery. He had the Success to be
+proclaim'd King of _Corsica_, and Copper Money was coin'd there with his
+Effigies; but he has since been obliged to abandon the Island; and the
+_French_ have taken upon them to accommodate Matters between the
+_Genoese_ and _Corsicans_. It must be left to Time, to shew whether the
+_Genoese_ will have Reason to be pleased with this formidable Mediation.
+After all, that Republic has too much Cause to remember the Saying of
+Prince _Lewis_ of _Wirtemberg_, who, when he return'd with the Imperial
+Troops from suppressing the former Rebellion, told them, That the Island
+was not worth the Expences which the Republic had been at in reducing
+the _Corsicans_, and what they must be at continually to keep them in
+Subjection.
+
+[24] The Prince had a Kindness for Mademoiselle _de Cumiane_, before she
+was married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, when she was Maid of Honour
+to Madame Royale. She was afterwards a Lady of Honour to the Duchess of
+_Savoy_, and at last Tire-Woman to the Princess of _Piedmont_, late
+Queen of _Sardinia_. She has been a Widow since 1723. After she was
+married to the Count _de St. Sebastian_, she still preserv'd the King's
+Friendship and Esteem, and was always in great Credit with him. When she
+became a Widow, the old Flames of Love broke out again; the King gave
+her an Apartment at Court, where he cou'd see her without being seen,
+and he took Care of her Family.
+
+[25] 'Tis said, that the real Motive of this Abdication was his
+Perplexity on Account of the Succession of _Parma_ and _Tuscany_, and
+the Introduction of the Infante _Don Carlos_ into _Italy_. They say he
+had enter'd into Engagements relating to this Affair, first with the
+Court of _Vienna_, and afterwards with _Spain_; and it not being
+possible for him to satisfy either of those Courts without exposing
+himself to the Resentment of the other, he resolved to abdicate, at
+least for a Time, because he knew of no other Way to extricate himself
+from the Dilemma.
+
+[26] The Abdication was performed the 3d of _September_, in the Castle
+of _Rivoli_. The declar'd Motives, were the Fatigues of a Reign of fifty
+Years, the Infirmities of old Age, and the Necessity of some Interval of
+Retirement, between a Throne and a Tomb.
+
+[27] The King was not marry'd to the Countess of _St. Sebastian_, till
+he came to _Chamberry_, where she met him; for he set out from _Turin_
+without her. When he marry'd her, he gave her one hundred thousand
+Crowns, with which she purchased the Marquisate of _Spigo_ for her
+Children, and then exchang'd her Title of Countess of _St. Sebastian_
+for that of Marchioness of _Spigo_.
+
+[28] _Victor Amedeus_ took it into his Head to reascend the Throne, as
+soon as he heard of the Conclusion of the Treaty of _Vienna_, by which
+the Emperor consented to the Introduction of the _Spaniards_. He then
+let the Marchioness _del Spigo_ into the true Motives of his Abdication,
+and into the Measures he intended to take for reascending the Throne.
+This ambitious Woman encourag'd him, and being withal a very cunning
+intriguing Person, she left no Stone unturn'd to bring a Project to
+bear, which would set her on the Throne; and she engag'd all her Friends
+and Relations in the Affair, of whom some betray'd her.
+
+[29] These Proofs were his sending for the Marquis _del Borgo_ to
+_Montcallier_, demanding the Instrument of Abdication from him, giving
+him but twelve Hours time to fetch it, and his appearing before the
+Citadel of _Turin_, with a View of getting into it, and of animating the
+Garison to assist him in his Enterprise.
+
+[30] These were all Privy Counsellors and Great Men, who being assembled
+by Order of the King, and consulted on the imminent Danger of his being
+dethron'd were all of Opinion for putting _Victor Amedeus_ and his
+Consort under an Arrest.
+
+[31] He died _Oct._ 31. 1732.
+
+[32] She died _Jan._ 13. 1735. and his Majesty has since married Sister
+of the present Great Duke of _Tuscany_.
+
+[33] There is now but one Prince, the youngest being dead; but there are
+three Princesses.
+
+[34] This is the Cardinal _Ferrera_, Bishop of _Verceil_.
+
+[35] This wou'd be very extraordinary, as Mr. _Addison_ observes, were
+it not for other neighbouring Mountains that rise above it.
+
+[36] This shews another Mistake of _Misson_, who says this Side is the
+most rugged.
+
+[37] The _French_ are not the only People who boast of the Grandeur and
+other Advantages of _Lyons_, as appears from this Epigram by _Scaliger_.
+
+_Flumineis Rhodanus qua se fugat incitus undis, Quaque pigro dubitat
+flumine mitis Arar, Lugdunum jacet, antiquo novus orbis in orbe,
+Lugdunumque vetus orbis in orbe novo. Quod nolis, alibi quaras; hic
+quare quod optas: Aut hic, aut nusquam, vincre vota potes. Lugduni
+quodcunque potest dare mundus habebis: Plura petas, hac urbs & tibi
+plura dabit._
+
+i. e.
+
+_Where +Rhone+ impetuous rolls, and where the slow And gentle +Saon+
+with milder Streams does flow, There +Lyons+ stands; where we united
+find, What scatter'd thro' the World delights the Mind; And if you still
+seek more with greedy eye, +Lyons+ can ev'n more Wonders still supply._
+
+[38] Her Amours with M. _de Lauzun_ have made a great Noise.
+
+[39] This Misfortune came upon the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_, merely
+from a Suspicion which the Regent entertain'd, that the Duke had a Hand
+in the pretended Conspiracy of the Prince of _Cellamare_, the Ambassador
+of _Spain_; which, they said, was to remove the Duke of _Orleans_ from
+the Regency, and to vest it in the King of _Spain_, who wou'd have put
+the Duke of _Maine_ in his Place, according to _Lewis_ XIVth's last
+Will. The bare Suspicion however amounted to fix the Guilt upon this
+Prince, and all that belong'd to him. It were to be wish'd, that some
+Eye-witness of what was then transacted at Court, and in _Bretagne_,
+wou'd give the Public an exact Account of it.
+
+[40] The Friar, who in the other Orders is a Prior, is call'd a Minister
+in this Order, which it better known in _France_ by the Name of the
+_Mathurias_.
+
+[41] In all Appearance, the _Latin_ Name _Lutetia_ comes from
+_Leucothecia_, which signifies _white Town_, a Name that _Strabo_ gives
+to this City, the Houses of which were plaister'd. By Abbreviation it
+was call'd _Lutetia_. As to the Name _Paris_, 'tis certain, that it
+comes from _Para-Isis_, near _Isis_, a well-known Goddess, who had
+several Temples in this Canton; where she was so particularly
+worshipp'd, that from her Name the Inhabitants were call'd
+_Para-Isians_, the Neighbours of _Isis_. They, who have carefully
+examin'd the Gate of the _Carmelites_ Church, and the Building of its
+Chapel, will own, that it was formerly the Temple of this Goddess; whose
+Statue, in Iron, holding a Handful of Ears of Corn, is still on the
+Front of the Building.
+
+[42] The Author does not say _whither_ nor _from whence_ those Sheep are
+stray'd. All those Sheep feed in the same Pasture, or at least, there
+are but few of 'em that feed in the Pastures to which M. _de Vintimille_
+could wish to bring the others. Some Slanderers don't scruple to say,
+that this _good_ Prelate gives himself more Uneasiness about the
+_Excellency of the Dishes_ at his Table, than the Goodness of the
+Pasture for his Sheep: For he has been seen to give the same Welcome to
+the _Jesuits_, and the _Fathers of the Oratory_, to the _Capuchins_ and
+the _Benedictins_, &c. For the Sake of such of our Readers as have a
+Taste for _French_ Poetry, we insert the following _Epigram_; which was
+made upon this Prelate's Mandate in Favour of the Constitution:
+
+_Le Public est un Sot, d'etre scandalise Du Mandement que +Vintimille+
+Vient de repandre dans la Ville, Me disoit ce Matin un Docteur avise! Il
+est, dit il, d'Usage indispensable, Pour qu'un Saint soit canonise,
+D'entendre l'Avocat du Diable._
+
+[43] This is a Thing in Question; and the Negative seems to be plainly
+proved by the Opinions of the Counsellors of the Parlement, all Men of
+unexceptionable Character, who voted for putting the Reverend Father to
+Death.
+
+[44] He is now Archbishop of _Sens_, and very well known for the famous
+Story of _Maria Aliacoque_, a celebrated Saint of his own making.
+
+[45] The Count _de Gergy_ died in 1733 in his Embassy, and was succeeded
+by the Count _de Froulay_.
+
+[46] As the Parson of St. _Sulpice_ stretches his Invention to the
+utmost, how to allure the Multitude, in 1734 he out-did all that he had
+ever done before, so that his Procession was more like the March of an
+Army than any thing else, because of the many Trumpets, Kettle-drums,
+Hunting-horns, _&c._ which made the Air echo with their Flourishes. It
+may by Degrees come to be like the Processions at _Cambray_, _Antwerp_,
+_Brussels_, and other Towns of the _Netherlands_; where, to the Scandal
+of the Christian Religion, we see the Revival of all the Impertinencies
+of the Pagan.
+
+[47] The Mode of _Bagnolette_, _i. e._ Bathing-tubs, came from this
+Village, to which the Country-women carry them.
+
+[48] _Philippa Elisabeth_ of _Orleans_. She died of the Small-pox _May_
+21, 1734. unmarried, and universally lamented.
+
+[49] _Louisa Diana_ of _Orleans_. She was married in 1732. to _Lewis_ of
+_Bourbon_, Prince of _Conti_, by whom she had a Son, born _Sept._ 1,
+1734. while the Prince was in the King's Army upon the _Rhine_.
+
+[50] It should have been observ'd in the Article of _Turin_, that this
+Queen died the second of _January_, 1735, O. S. and the King has since
+marry'd the eldest Sister of the present Duke of _Lorain_.
+
+[51] He is married since 1732, to _Louisa-Diana_ of _Orleans_, youngest
+Daughter of the late Regent.
+
+[52] The Origin of the Fable is this. _Mehemed Ben Aschen_, or the Son
+of _Aschen_, Admiral of _Sale_, was deputed from the King of _Morocco_,
+but I know not in what Year, to the Court of _France_. When this Corsair
+was at _Paris_, he heard great Talk of the Princess of _Conti_'s Beauty,
+and of the particular Affection which the King had for her: In order to
+ingratiate himself with the _French_, he gave out, that the Emperor his
+Master having seen the Picture of that Princess among other Effects
+which belong'd to a Christian who was taken into Slavery, he thought her
+the most beautiful of her Sex; and that his _Moorish_ Majesty said, That
+if he had such a Lady in his Seraglio, he should never desire any other.
+_Mehemed_'s Story was presently carried far and near, but it was told
+quite different from the Truth; for it was reported in a very little
+time, that he was come to demand the Princess in Marriage for _Muley
+Ismael_ his Master. As there seem'd to be something mysterious in the
+Picture, a Messenger was sent in all Haste to the Ambassador's Lodgings,
+to know the Name of the Slave from whom it was taken; but his
+_Mahometan_ Excellency so prevaricated, that his Answer was far from
+being satisfactory. Nevertheless, his pretended Demand of this Princess
+was so much the Subject of Conversation among the _French_ for several
+Months, that according to the Custom of this People, they at length made
+a Sonnet upon it, which follows.
+
+To the Tune of _Je ne suis ne ni Roi ni Prince_.
+
+_Votre beaute, grande Princesse, Porte les traits dont l'Amour blesse,
+Jusques aux plus sauvages dieux: L'Afrique avec vous capitule, Et les
+conquetes de vos yeux Vont plus loin que celles d'Hercule._
+
+_S'il est bien vrai qu'il vous adore, Que je plains ce pauvre Roi Maure,
+D'etre sensible a vos appas! En vain envers vous il s'explique; La
+France ne donnera pas Son Ange au Diable de l'Afrique._
+
+Which may be thus English'd,
+
+_Your Beauty, Great Princess, Carries Love's killing Shafts To Nations
+the most savage; +Afric+ with you capitulates, And the Conquests of your
+Eyes Even those of +Hercules+ surmount._
+
+_If it be true that he adores you, How do I pity the poor Negro King,
+Who is so smitten with your Charms! In vain he makes his Passion known
+to you; For sure +France+ will never give Her Angel to the Devil of
++Africa+._
+
+[53] 'Tis a Letter _from a Gentleman retir'd from the World, to a Friend
+of his_, wherein he celebrates the happy Innocence, and the Freedom of
+his tranquil Retreat, in a Style that cannot but be pleasing to the
+Admirers of _French_ Poetry; and for their Sakes we insert the Original,
+with only an _English_ Paraphrase in the Margin.
+
+Je vois regner sur ce rivage The Author begins with expressing
+L'Innocence et la Liberte. his Surprise at the Concurrence Que d'Objects
+dans ce paisage, of Objects of different Qualities Malgre leur
+contrariete, in his Retirement; such as M'etonnent par leur Assemblage!
+Abundance with Frugality, Abondante frugalite, Authority with
+Indulgence, Riches Autorite sans Esclavage with Sobriety, Richesses sans
+Libertinage, Charges, Noblesse, sans fuerte. Honours with Humility: And
+having Mon choix est fait, ce voisinage therefore fix'd on this Spot for
+Determine ma volonte. his Residence, he implores the Bienfaisante
+Divinite, Sanction of the Divine Providence Ajoutez y votre suffrage. to
+his Choice.
+
+Disciple de l'Adversite, Here he says, that having been Je viens faire
+dans le village train'd-up in the School of Le volontaire apprentissage
+Adversity, he prefers a voluntary D'une tardive obscurite. Obscurity in
+the Village; that he Aussi bien, de mon plus bel age has experienc'd the
+Instability of J'appercois l'instabilite. Youth; that he has seen the
+Return J'ai deja, de compte arrete, of 40 Springs, which he regrets
+Quarante fois vu le feuillage that he has so ill improv'd; and Par le
+Zephyr ressuscite. promises to make a better Use of Du Printems j'ai mal
+profite: the Summer of his Life. J'en ai regret; et de l'Ete Je veux
+faire un meilleur usage.
+
+J'apporte dans mon Hermitage, He says he brings to his Hermitage Un coeur
+des longtems rebute a Heart which has been for a long Du prompt et
+funeste esclavage, Time the fatal Slave of foolish Fruit de la folle
+vanite. Vanity; but that now he is become Paisan sans rusticite, a
+Peasant without Clownishness, a Hermite sans patelinage, Hermit without
+Bigotry; and that Mon but est la tranquillite. Tranquillity being his
+Aim, he Je veux pour unique partage, desires no other Portion in Life La
+paix d'un coeur qui se degage but the Peace of his Mind, Des filets de la
+Volupte. disentangled from the Snares of Pleasure.
+
+L'incorruptible probite, Here he declares, that De mes Ayeux noble
+Heritage, incorruptible Probity, the noble A la Cour ne m'a point
+quitte. Inheritance he deriv'd from his Libre et franc, sans etre
+sauvage, Ancestors, did not forsake him at Du Courtisan fourbe et volage
+Court, where being frank and free, L'exemple ne m'a point gate, without
+being rude, the Example of L'infatigable activite, the crafty giddy
+Courtier had not tainted him. He observes the good Effect of his former
+Miscarriage; that it has made him active and indefatigable; and he hopes
+Reste d'un utile naufrage, from henceforwards to be happy in Mes Etudes,
+mon Jardinage, his Studies, in his Garden, and Un Repas sans art
+apprete, in a plain Diet dress'd by his D'une Epouse oeconome et sage
+frugal prudent Wife, whose good La belle humeur, le bon menage, Nature
+is equal to her [OE]conomy. Vont faire ma felicite.
+
+C'est dans ce Port, qu'en surete In this Port, says he, my Vessel Ma
+Barque ne craint point l'orage. dreads no Storm. Let who will defy Qu'un
+autre a son tour emporte, the Rage of the Winds, while he Au gre de sa
+cupidite, coasts along the Shore, I laugh at Sur le sein de l'humide
+plage, his Presumption, and wish him a Des Vents ose affronter la rage;
+good Voyage; but reserve my Je ris de sa temerite, Courage for a more
+important Et lui souhaite un bon voyage. Passage, and approach with Je
+reserve ma fermete Boldness to the Gates of Eternity. Pour un plus
+important passage; Et je m'approche avec courage, Des portes de
+l'Eternite.
+
+Je sai que la mortalite The Poet concludes with a Du Genre humain est
+l'appanage: Reflection, that since Mortality Pourquoi seul serois-je
+excepte? is intail'd upon all Mankind, why La vie est un pelerinage:
+should he alone think to be De son cours la rapidite, exempted? And he
+says, that since Loin de m'alarmer, me soulage. Life is but a
+Pilgrimage, the De sa fin, quand je l'envisage, Rapidity of its Race,
+instead of L'infallible necessite alarming, comforts him; and that Ne me
+sauroit faire d'outrage. the infallible Necessity of his Brulez de l'Or
+empaquete, Death, when he seriously considers Il n'en perit que
+l'embalage: the Matter, is no more an Injury C'est tour. Un si leger
+dommage to him, than the burning of a Bale Devroit-il etre regrete? of
+Gold is to the Metal, which remains intire, tho' the Case that contains
+it is consum'd; which, he adds, is too trifling a Loss to be regarded.
+
+
+[54] The King gave this young Duke, when he was but nine Years old, the
+Reversion of the Post of Great Admiral, for a New-Year's Gift, on the
+first of _January_ 1734. He is handsome, well-set, all Life and Spirit,
+and gives very fair Hopes of being a great Man.
+
+[55] As soon as he arrived, the Place _de Vendosme_, or the Square of
+_Lewis le Grand_, where M. _Daguesseau_ liv'd, was set apart for the
+Stock-jobbing Trade, which was before carried on in the Street
+_Quinquempoix_; and one Morning, a Paper was found at the Chancellor's
+Door, with these Words, _Et homo factus est, & habitabit cum nobis_.
+
+[56] He is actually join'd in the Administration with the Cardinal _de
+Fleury_, who was very glad to nominate a Person for his Coadjutor.
+
+[57] He died some time ago at _Paris_, very much lamented by all that
+knew him.
+
+[58] The present Archbishop of _Ambrun_, famous for his Zeal for the
+Constitution, for the Persecution of the Bishop of _Senez_, and for his
+little Council at _Ambrun_.
+
+[59] He died at _Maestricht_ in the Year 1734, a Cornet in the Regiment
+of the Prince of _Orange-Friseland_. But Mr. _Law_ has left an amiable
+Daughter, who has had a fine Education, and married to Lord
+_Wallingford_, Son to the Earl of _Banbury_.
+
+[60] These Verses are not in the first Edition of these Memoirs, but are
+added, by the Bookseller, to the second.
+
+[61] _James Nompar_ of _Caument_, Duke _de la Force_, an assiduous
+humble Servant of Mr. _Law_, and who, by his Management, during the
+_Missisippi_ Scheme, drew a great many Pasquinades upon himself, of
+which this is not the severest.
+
+[62] The Abbe _Terrasson_, who wrote in Favour of the Scheme.
+
+[63] _Law_ had three Cocks for his Arms.
+
+[64] As these Lines will not admit of a Version to the Satisfaction of
+an _English_ Reader, 'tis sufficient to acquaint him, that they are a
+Satire upon the Humour which prevail'd at that Time, among People of all
+Ranks, from the Duke to his Scullion, to be Adventurers in Mr. _Law_'s
+Scheme; a Madness which was contemporary, and equally mischievous with
+the Delusion that was so predominant in our own Country, in that fatal
+Year of 1720, when so many People were, as we may term it, cast away in
+the _South-Sea_, and the lesser Whirlpools, call'd _Bubbles_, of which
+there was almost an infinite Number.
+
+[65] This, with the Calculation annexed to it, is an Addition by the
+Editor, to the second Edition, which was not in the first Edition of
+these Memoirs.
+
+[66] There was a Label affixed to the Gate of the _Palais_ Royal, with
+these Words, _Esurientes implevit bonis, & Divites dimisit inanes_, i.
+e. The Hungry he hath fill'd with good Things, but the Rich he hath sent
+empty away.
+
+[67] He was of the _Lorain_ Family, and was succeeded in his Office of
+Master of the Horse by his Son Prince _Charles_.
+
+[68] The King of _France_ having declar'd War against the Emperor in
+1733, in Conjunction with the Kings of _Spain_ and _Sardinia_, his
+Majesty gave the Marshal _de Villars_ the Command of his Army in
+_Italy_; to which Country he repair'd after the Conquest of the
+_Milanese_ had been very far advanc'd. He took _Pizzighitone_; but the
+Imperial Army being at length form'd, the Count _de Merci_, who
+commanded it, having taken the Field with it on a sudden, by passing the
+_Po_, made so many Motions, that the old Marshal, being forc'd to be
+_every-where_, according to his old Phrase, fell sick upon it, and was
+oblig'd to leave the Army. Some do not stick to say, that he had Orders
+for it from Court, where his Conduct was not approv'd: Be this as it
+will, his Distemper growing worse upon his Arrival at _Turin_, he died
+there the 17th of _June_ 1734, in the 84th Year of his Age, in the same
+Room, as 'tis said, where he was born, his Father the Marquis _de
+Villars_ being then there by Order of the King. In 1702 he married
+_Joanna-Angelica Roque de Varengeville_, whose Father was the King's
+Ambassador at _Venice_. The Family of _Villars_ is originally of
+_Lyons_, and first began to be distinguish'd in the Person of _Claude de
+Villars_, Lord of _Chapelle_, and _Masclas_, second Son to _Francis de
+Villars_, born about _Ann._ 1516. The Marshal was to the last a Man of
+uncommon Gaiety and Gallantry; for whether Fighting or Dancing, he
+appear'd with the same Vivacity and good Humour, and seem'd an Enemy to
+none except the Jesuits. What did not consist with such a Temper, was
+his Love of Money; and he inrich'd himself too much by the Spoils of
+War, and the Contributions he used to raise for Safe-guards, _&c._ But
+as for his Soldier-like Character, this one Story of him may suffice; In
+1702 the Marshal order'd his Army to pass the _Rhine_ at _Haguenau_, the
+same Night that he invited several Gentlemen and ladies to a Ball, where
+he danc'd till two o'Clock in the Morning, and then mounted his Horse
+unobserv'd, and follow'd his Army; with which he surprised the Prince of
+_Baden_, and fought a Battle by the Time the Ball was broke up; for
+which Action the King gave him the Marshal's Batoon. The Conquests of
+_Milan_ and other Places in _Italy_, which he made in 1733, were
+accompany'd also with Dancing and Balls; but Age and Infirmities, at
+last, made a Conquest of him. His Memory and his Judgment so fail'd him,
+that he became troublesome to the Army; but his fighting Humour still
+prevail'd, and he would have endanger'd all, had not the King of
+Sardinia prevail'd on the King of _France_ to recall him. However, the
+King of _Sardinia_ took Leave of him in the Field with great Civility,
+and at his Arrival at _Turin_, where he fell ill of a Dysentery,
+accompany'd with a Fever, of which he died, he was receiv'd very
+graciously by the late Queen, who presented him with a Diamond Sword,
+valued at 300 Pistoles.
+
+The following Sonnet was presented to the Marshal, when he set out for
+_Italy_.
+
+_Villars, tes grands Exploits qui sauverent la France, Dans les Siecles
+futurs t'immortaliseront. La Paix fut le doux fruit de ta haute
+prudence; Mais de nouveaux Lauriers doivent ceindre ton front._
+
+_Le Pere de ton Roi, l'Espagne & le Piemont, Sur toi seul aujourd'hui
+fondent leurs Esperances. Arme ton bras vainquer, cours venger leur
+affront; L'Allemand pourra-i-il soutenir ta presence?_
+
+_Les grands Coeurs en tout tems conservent leur valeur, L'Age respecte en
+eux leur premiere vigueur, Ils savent s'affranchir des Loix de la
+Nature:_
+
+_Semblables aux Lauriers que leur main va cueillir, Qui des ans, des
+saisons ne craiguent point l'injure, Les Heros ont le droit le ne jamais
+vieillir._
+
+i. e.
+
+_+Villars+, thy great Exploits, which sav'd all +France+, In future Ages
+will immortalise thee. The Peace was the kind Product of thy great
+Wisdom; But new Laurels are still to deck thy Brow._
+
+_The Father of thy King, +Spain+, and +Piedmont+ too, Upon thee alone do
+now found all their Hopes. Haste with thy conqu'ring Arm their Quarrel
+to avenge; Will +Germany+ be able to withstand thy Presence?_
+
+_Great Souls always retain their Valour; To their former Vigour Age
+itself pays a Respect; They can shake off the Yoke of Nature's Laws._
+
+_Like to the Laurels gather'd by their Hands, Which are Proof against
+the Injuries of Years and Seasons, Heroes never stoop to old Age._
+
+[69] By Mrs. _Arabella Churchill_, Sister to the late Duke of
+_Marlborough_.
+
+[70] The King, having appointed the Marshal _de Villars_ to command in
+_Italy_, thought fit to send the Marshal _de Berwic_ to oppose Prince
+_Eugene_, whom the Emperor had nominated for the Command on the _Rhine_.
+He began the Siege of _Philipsburg_; but on the first of _June_, O. S.
+1734, as he went to take a View of the Trenches, he was kill'd with a
+Cannon Ball between his two Grandsons. He is succeeded in all his Titles
+by his Son the Duke _de Liria_, now Duke of _Berwic_, _&c._ who has been
+lately at the Court of _Naples_.
+
+It will be doing no Dishonour to the Marshal, to say he made War his
+Trade, which he studied with an unwearied Application; and as he never
+wanted Courage, so none had more military Knowledge. Having consider'd
+War as a Science, he left little to Chance, or even Bravery; but
+depended upon Skill and Discipline, which was the Thing that gain'd him
+the Battle of _Almanza_. As he was so regular and mechanical a Warrior,
+he was himself the Life and Soul of his Army, not as he was belov'd, but
+as he was much fear'd by his Soldiers, whom he never spar'd, and least
+of all, his own Countrymen, that came to serve in _France_. He was
+reserved even to his General Officers, rarely consulting them, nor so
+much as communicating the Orders he had receiv'd, or the Designs he had
+projected, but as they had their own Parts to execute in them. Tho' he
+was the best regular General of his Time, yet he was the least
+enterprizing one. He was never a great Favourite at the Court of
+_France_, which is something to be wonder'd at, considering the Use he
+was made of upon every Occasion; for as a Soldier of Fortune, he had no
+Obligations but for his Appointments; and yet attach'd himself to
+_France_ preferably to any other Nation. As he was bred up in the War
+against the _English_, his Enmity to them became a second Nature, which
+is suppos'd to be the Reason that he never did one of that Nation any
+Service, beside those of his own Family. As the Marshal took care to be
+obey'd by the Officers and Soldiers of the Armies he commanded, he was
+always obsequious himself to the Orders of the Court, of which there
+needs no other Proof, than the Instance above-mention'd; when he
+appear'd in Arms against _Spain_ with Alacrity, after he had receiv'd
+the highest Honours from King _Philip_.
+
+He had the Title of Duke of _Berwic_, and likewise the Garter conferr'd
+on him by King _James_. He was born in 1671, so that when he died, he
+was sixty-three Years of Age.
+
+[71] The Family of _Estrees_, originally of _Picardy_, was in Possession
+of the Dignities of the Crown before _Gabriella_; for her Grandfather
+was Great Master of the Artillery of _France_.
+
+[72] This is the common Name in _Italy_ for Interpreters or Expounders
+of Antiquities.
+
+[73] Here should have been added, _of the Poet_ Paul Scarron. She was
+the Daughter of _Constans d'Aubigny_, Baron of _Surincan_, and of _Joan
+de Cardillac_. _Charles d'Aubigny_, Governor of _Berry_, and Knight of
+the King's Orders, who died in 1703, was her Brother. Her Grandfather
+was _Theodore Agrippa d'Aubigny_, Admiral of _Bretagne_ and _Guienne_,
+celebrated for his Zeal for the Protestant Religion, and Author of a
+_History of his own Time_, of the _Confession_ of _Saney_, and of the
+Baron _de Faneste_. Every body knows, that the Attachment of his Widow
+_Scarron_ to Madame _de Montespan_, made her Way to _Lewis_ XIV. who was
+so pleas'd with her Humour, that she continued in the highest Favour
+till that Monarch's Death; and enjoy'd a Pension of 50,000 Livres, which
+was punctually paid her by _Lewis_ XV. every Year as long as she liv'd.
+After her Death, the Duke de _Noailles_ became Marquis _de Maintenon_ in
+Right of his Wife.
+
+[74] This alludes to a Joke of the President _de Harlai_, who when he
+was accosted by the Comedians, in the Name of their _Troop_, which that
+worthy Gentleman never car'd for, especially since _Tartuffe_, and the
+Comedians saying to him, _My Lord, the_ Company _of Comedians_, &c. The
+President made Answer, _Gentlemen_, the Troop _of the Parliament_, &c.
+
+[75] The Author refers here to the Works directed by Mr. BENSON, one of
+the present Auditors of the Imprest (for which see p. 67. of the First
+Volume of these Memoirs).
+
+[76] The Bottle called the Holy Phial, is kept at _Rheims_, in the Tomb
+of St. _Remy_, in the Church of that Name. It has not been filled since
+the Coronation of _Clovis_, when 'tis said this Phial was brought from
+Heaven, with the Oil with which that first Christian King of _France_
+was consecrated; and the Frier who shews it at _Rheims_, says very
+seriously, That when the King is sick, it dries away; so that when he
+dies, there is not a Drop left in the Bottle; but that as soon as his
+Successor is proclaimed, it fills again of its own Accord. I tell you no
+more than what I heard with my own Ears, and tho' I could not help
+smiling at it, the Frier was not angry. The Liquefaction of this Oil is
+altogether as miraculous as that of St. _Januarius_'s Blood at _Naples_.
+
+[77] The Abbe _de Vayrac_ was of a good Family in _Guienne_, and had all
+the Vivacity natural to that Province, which stood him in the stead of
+Wit; but it was of the abusive Kind. If ever an Author was a Plagiary,
+he was. He published a _State_ of _Spain_, and a _State_ of the Empire;
+which last brought him under an ignominious Sentence of the Court of
+_Vienna_. He had also composed a History of _Portugal_, which he could
+not obtain a Licence for Printing, because it appear'd that he had paid
+greater Compliments in it to the _Portuguese_, than to the _French_. He
+died in the Beginning of the Year 1733, as he returned from a Journey he
+had made to _Holland_.
+
+[78] In 1643.
+
+[79] This famous Counsellor was restor'd not long after, at the pressing
+Instances of his Brethren, and has merited the Elogiums of the Minister
+himself, as well as of all _France_.
+
+[80] _Pucelage_ is the _French_ Word for _Virginity_.
+
+[81] Neither was he included in the Promotion of the four Marshals of
+_France_, which the King made in 1734, tho' he had served with great
+Bravery ever since the Beginning of the last War between _France_ and
+_Germany_.
+
+[82] This Minister pleases them to Perfection. They all like his
+Behaviour, and the Diligence with which he dispatches Business. In a
+Word, he is beloved and adored.
+
+[83] In _November_ 1736, she was delivered of a Son.
+
+[84] Prince _Christian_ II. Son of the Prince _de la Tour_. He resigned
+his Canonship of Cologn, on purpose to serve in the Emperor's Army.
+
+[85] The Marshal _de Zumjungen_ dy'd the 25th of _August_ 1732. The
+Count _de Wurmbrand_ commanded till another was appointed.
+
+[86] _Gand_ signifies _Ghent_ in the _German_, and _Glove_ in the
+_English_.
+
+[87] He is the Great Great Grandson of Prince _Maurice_, by the Lady _de
+Malines_.
+
+[88] The Emperor lately appointed him to relieve the Count _de Sastago_,
+Viceroy of _Sicily_, at the Time that Don _Carlos_, King of _Naples_,
+went to make a Descent upon _Sicily_, with twenty thousand Men, under
+the Command of the Count _de Montemar_, Duke of _Bitonto_.
+
+[89] M. _d'Amerongen_, who is descended of one of the best Families in
+the Province of _Utrecht_, having lost his elder Brother, who was in the
+Regency, has quitted his Service to succeed him in the Government.
+
+[90] It was burnt quite to the Ground in the Beginning of the Year 1734.
+
+[91] VOL. I. LETTER V.
+
+[92] He succeeded _Francis Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, Elector of _Mentz_, who
+was chose Grand Master the 12th of _July_ 1694, In the Room of his
+Brother, _Lewis Anthony_ of _Neubourg_; and he is the fourteenth Grand
+Master since the Defection of _Prussia_, formerly the Seat of this
+Order, which has existed ever since the Year 1190; when it was
+instituted in the Holy Land, by _Henry_ King of _Jerusalem_. A Duke of
+_Masovia_, having invited to his House _Herman de Salsza_, the fourth
+Grand Master of the new Order, chose in 1210, he gave him, and his
+Knights, Lands upon the Frontiers of _Prussia_; the Inhabitants whereof
+being _Pagans_, did great Mischief to his Subjects, and he promised to
+leave them all the Lands that they conquered from those People, which
+the Emperor and the Pope confirmed. Before the Year 1250, they took
+_Prussia_, _Courland_, and a Part of _Livonia_; and put all the _Pagans_
+to Death that refused to turn Christian. The _Teutonic_ Knights, being
+driven out of the Holy Land, by the taking of _Acre_, went and
+established the principal House of their Order at _Marpurg_, in the
+Beginning of the fourteenth Century; from whence they transferred it to
+_Marienbourg_ in _Prussia_. The Order made such a rapid Progress, that
+in the Beginning of the following Century, it was in a Condition to
+oppose _Jagellon_, King of _Poland_, with an Army of eighty-three
+thousand Men; which that Prince, _Anno_ 1410, cut in Pieces. After that
+time the Order was scarce ever at Peace, but was always at Variance,
+either with the _Poles_, or the _Lithuanians_, or with the _Russians_,
+or with its own Subjects; till it was obliged to make a dishonourable
+Peace in 1446, with _Casimir_ King of _Poland_. The Grand Masters, from
+that Time to 1510, when _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_ was chose Grand
+Master, could not repair their Losses. The latter having embraced the
+Protestant Religion, made a Bargain in 1515, with the King of _Poland_,
+and yielded all _Russia_ to him, on Condition of holding of him in Fee,
+what was afterwards called _Ducal Prussia_, or _Brandenbourg Prussia_,
+which now forms the Kingdom of _Prussia_; and the rest was incorporated
+with _Poland_, and forms the Palatinates of _Culm_, _Marienbourg_, _&c._
+Thus were the _Teutonic_ Knights obliged to retire to _Germany_, where
+their Order is shared into twelve Provinces, each of which has its
+particular Commandeurs; and their oldest Commandeur is called the
+Provincial Commandeur. These twelve Commandeurs depend on the Grand
+Master, and have a Right to chuse him. The Grand Master's Residence is
+at _Marien-shal_ in Franconia, and his Revenue about twenty thousand
+Crowns. 'Tis said, the Order does not yet despair, that some Day or
+other, it will be able to recover its lost Dominions.
+
+[93] He is dead.
+
+[94] He was Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order, Bishop of
+_Strasbourg_, _Halberstadt_, _Passau_, _Olenitz_ and _Breslaw_; Abbot of
+_Hirchsfeldt_, _Murbach_ and _Luders_.
+
+[95] Nevertheless, he was disgrac'd in 1733, for a very trifling Cause,
+which made the Count _de la Lippe_, also, lose all his Employments; and
+his own Disgrace has been attended with that of his whole Family, and
+with great Alterations at the Elector's Court, where the Count _de
+Hohen-Zollern_ is now Grand Master of the Houshold, and First Minister;
+and the Baron _de Hornstein_ Great Chamberlain.
+
+[96] He was scarce twenty-eight Years of Age.
+
+[97] The Baron _de Roll_ has succeeded him in his Place.
+
+[98] The Count, who is a Lover of the Sciences, intends to make a
+_Lycaum_ of his Castle, and a little _Athens_ of his Town. He begins by
+forming a numerous Library, and longs to get the Learned about him. But
+the main Point is to make a good Choice of them; and the first Choice
+which the Count has made of a Man who has already engrossed his Favour,
+does not promise well for the future.
+
+[99] He died in 1734.
+
+[100] On the Road, two Leagues from _Cleves_, there's the Palace of
+_Meiland_, where the King of _Prussia_ resided at the Beginning of the
+Illness which he contracted in 1734, as he returned from the Imperial
+Army on the _Rhine_.
+
+[101] The Name of this Prelate was _Barkman Wuytiers_. He died in 1733,
+at no very great Age, with the Character of a Man of the strictest
+Virtue. The Court of _Rome_, and the _Jesuits_, conceiv'd great Hopes
+after his Death. The latter, after having been banished out of the
+United Provinces by very severe Laws; employed the Mediation of a
+certain Court to succeed in their Design of getting an Apostolical Vicar
+accepted in the Place of the Archbishop of _Utrecht_; but this Design,
+which was look'd upon as dangerous to the Liberty of the Republic,
+miscarry'd, and the Deceased was succeeded by _Theodore van der Kroon_.
+
+[102] What is said throughout this Article, of their Manner of living,
+must be understood only of the common People, and not of Persons of any
+distinguished Rank, nor even of the Merchants.
+
+[103] As there is no Dignity superior to that of the Burgomaster, they
+who attain to it succeed one another in the several Functions, without
+passing to other Employments: They are the Members of the Council, who
+are sent to the College of Counsellor-Deputies, or who fill the Posts of
+Treasurers, _&c._ But the Burgomasters are they who go to the Assemblies
+of the States of the Province, with the Pensionary or Syndic of the
+City, who is the Spokesman.
+
+[104] He is since dead.
+
+[105] This Minister was succeeded in 1734, by the Count _d'Uhlefeld_,
+Son to the Lady who has the chief Direction of the Houshold to the
+Archduchess, Governess of the _Austrian Netherlands_. He is come to a
+Post which was so well fill'd before, in a very difficult Juncture,
+which has given him an Opportunity to discover the great Talents he has
+for Negotiation. As his Family is one of the best regulated, so it may
+be said to be one of the most magnificent. The Count _de Sinzendorff_
+died suddenly about the End of _September, 1734_, at the Seat of the
+Count _d'Asperen_, at the very Instant when he was preparing to return
+to _Vienna_.
+
+[106] These Differences were indeed adjusted during the Time that M. _de
+Masch_ resided here with a Ministerial Character; but he had no Hand in
+the Accommodation, it being negotiated only by M. _Luiscius_ the King's
+Resident, and M. _Duncan_, the Prince of _Orange_'s Privy-Counsellor, or
+Major-Domo.
+
+[107] Upon the Death of the King of _Poland_, he was confirmed by the
+new Elector of _Saxony_.
+
+[108] M. _Preys_. He has resided at the _Hague_ for several Years, and
+was here during the Time of the Ambassador _Palmquist_, whom he
+Succeeded. He is a Minister of consummate Knowledge in Affairs, and is
+consulted by others of a more modern Standing, both with Pleasure and
+Profit.
+
+[109] M. _Greys_ has for several Years had the Care, as Envoy
+Extraordinary, of the King of Denmark's Interests with the States
+General. He was bred up to be a Minister at the Altar, but had more
+Inclination to be a Minister of the Cabinet, in which he succeeded, and
+is very much esteem'd, but sees very little Company.
+
+[110] This able Minister died in _December, 1736_.
+
+[111] M. _de Keppel_ married the Widow of the late Count _de Welderen_,
+one of the greatest Men of this Republic, who left three Sons and five
+Daughters, that are the Ornament of the Nobility of _Guelderland_, and
+the Darlings of the _Hague_, where Foreigners have an easy and agreeable
+Access to this Lady's House. M. _de Keppel_, one of the finest Gentlemen
+of his Time, and one of the bravest Officers of the State, died in 1733,
+leaving only one Son, who is an Officer in the Horse Guards.
+
+[112] The good Lady died of the Small Pox in 1735 in a very advanced
+Age. Tho' she had made a Profession of Devotion for a certain time, she
+had not intirely lost her Taste for Gallantry, in which she certainly
+out-stripped the Lady _Mazarine_; for she declared herself, that it
+would be more easy to number the Shells upon the Shore at _Scheveling_,
+than her Adventures of Gallantry. She never missed her Aim but at one
+Man, and that was King _Augustus_. She did all she could to engage his
+Caresses, if not his Affection, but without Success; and every body
+knows the Adventure of my Lord _Raby_, who having an Amour with the
+Countess at _Berlin_, surprised her with King _Augustus_ striving to get
+loose from her close Embraces. Nor is this a Wonder; for tho' the King
+of _Poland_ did not want Gallantry, yet he was for a Woman of some
+Politeness, of which the Countess had no Share; for being the Daughter
+of a Waterman at _Emmeris_, she had not the completed Education. She had
+Beauty indeed, but was in every other respect a coarse Lady.
+Nevertheless, during her Residence at the _Hague_, the Youth who had
+nothing else to employ their Time, constantly reported to her House, and
+among these she had always some favourite Spark. Every body knows her
+Intrigues with the famous Count _de F----_; and her Last Will and
+Testament has render'd several others immortal. You will be surprised to
+know the End of this Woman, who had been so much talked of, who had
+regaled so many People in her Time, and to whom every body had easy
+Access. She dies, is immediately removed out of her Chamber, and put
+into a Coffin in the Entry of her House, which is sealed up, and she is
+interred without one of her ungrateful Favourites vouchsafing to attend
+her Funeral, or indeed any body but the Bearers, and a few Neighbours,
+who were insulted by the Mob.
+
+[113] The Issue of this Dispute betwixt the Jew and the Anabaptist has
+been, that the latter has lost the Day, the Comedians being gone. The
+victorious Jew has hit upon an Expedient to metamorphose his future
+Opera into a public Concert, which he gives every _Monday_ in the
+Afternoon, where one sees all the People of Fashion of both Sexes; and
+there they sing Opera Acts, and the finest _French_ Cantatas.
+
+[114] Of the latter, there died a Baron in _December_, 1736, who was one
+of the principal Men, and held the greatest Offices of any in the
+Republic, next to the Grand Pensionary _Slingeland_, whom he survived
+but a few Days.
+
+[115] M. _de Wassenaar-Twickel_, a Name which he derives from a fine
+Estate in the Province of _Over-Yssel_, of which he is Deputy.
+
+[116] _William Charles Henry Friso_, Prince of _Orange_, was married
+_March_ 14. 1734. to the Princess Royal of _Great Britain_.
+
+[117] The Count _d'Auverquerque_ died Velt-Marshal of the Republic,
+about the End of the Campaign of 1708.
+
+[118] As the History of this extraordinary Man came to the Hands of the
+Bookseller since the Publication of the first Edition, he thought he
+should do a Pleasure to the Public, by inserting it in this.
+
+[119] He was executed in _July_, 1734.
+
+[120] Or the _Palace of Orange_ in the Wood at the _Hague_. It was
+yielded to the Prince of _Orange_ by his Treaty of Partition with the
+King of _Prussia_.
+
+[121] _Margaret_, Daughter of _Florence_ IV. Count of _Holland_. She was
+Countess of _Henneberg_.
+
+[122] This belongs also to the Prince of _Orange_.
+
+[123] This is an ignominious Punishment inflicted Abroad for such
+heinous Offences at deserve neither Banishment, nor Whipping, nor Death.
+The Criminal who suffers it, stands in a Shirt, with a Rope about the
+Neck, holding a burning Taper in one Hand, attended by the Executioner,
+and other inferior Officers of Justice, and in this Posture begs Pardon
+of the King, of Justice, and the Public, for the Offence committed.
+
+[124] This most Excellent Princess departed this Life the 20th of _Nov._
+1737, to the infinite Regret of the King and Kingdom.
+
+[125] His Governor is the Hon. _Stephen Poyntz_, Esq; and his Preceptor
+in the learned Languages _Jenkin Thomas Philips_, Esq; formerly
+Secretary to the Commissioners for the Fifty New Churches, and since
+preferr'd to be his Majesty's Historiographer.
+
+[126] Her Royal Highness, as is well known, is since married to the
+Prince of _Orange_.
+
+
+
+
+                        TRANSCRIBER'S AMENDMENTS
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that
+remain, some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when
+they fall in the middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been
+moved. Footnotes are now immediately preceding this note. We have
+rendered consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or
+spacing of such pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context.
+We have corrected inconsistencies in the application of accents to
+the same word when repeated in the same grammatical context.
+Paragraph formatting has been made consistent. The publisher's
+inadvertent omissions of important punctuation have been corrected.
+A table of contents has been added. 'OE' and 'oe' have replaced the
+respective ligatures.
+
+The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number
+represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext
+except for footnotes since they have been moved.
+
+    Page          Change
+
+      7  the Condu ctof[Conduct of] the Popes,
+      8  not a Man spoke a Work[Word].
+      9  in a Posture of Astonish mentat[Astonishment at] the Appearance
+     17  proclaimed Pope on _Wedcesday[Wednesday]_ the 12th
+     20  After this, th y[they] went all, both Cardinals and Prelates
+     87  {footnote} _Sebastian_ was Grandon[Grandson] of _John_ III.
+    110  intituled[intitled] Captain of the Appeals;
+    122  chief Lackeys of the Cardinals rideing[riding]
+    202  the famous Story of _Maria Aliacoque[Alacoque]_, a celebrated
+    208  as she allighted[alighted] from the Coach,
+    222  Assistance from the King his Maste[Master]:
+    225  {footnote} Et lui southaite[souhaite] un bon voyage.
+    229  intent upon carrrying[carrying] his Point,
+    232  Count _Sinzendorf's[Sinzendorff's]_ coming from _Vienna_
+    244  a Madness which was co-temporary[contemporary],
+    264  After her Death, the Duke de _Noalies[Noailles]_ became
+    292  General of the Coriers[Couriers], Posts and Relays
+    294  about their Master's Preeminency[Pre-eminency].
+    309  and lives very handsomly[handsomely],
+    309  but lives handsomly[handsomely] upon what he has
+    313  The Inhabitants have a livid unwholsome[unwholesome] Complexion.
+    351  His Disbursments[Disbursements] seem to me to be very moderate
+    359  _Paul Veronese_, _Tintoret_, _Corregio[Correggio]_,
+    376  are commonly employed as Tresurers[Treasurers] of the City,
+    389  and the _Amsterdamers[Amsterdammers]_ themselves cannot
+    419  a young Man of an unblamable[unblameable] Behaviour;
+    425  of the _Franche Comte[Comte]_. The Republic
+    443  that of being sollicited[solicited] by the Person in Disgrace
+  Index  _Churchil[Churchill], Arabella_, 257.
+  Index  Womens Houses, and the great Emoluments of Gameing[Gaming],
+  Index  _Hagendorp[Hogendorp]_, M. 413.
+  Index  _Lewid'ors[Lewis d'Ors]_, worn in a Lady's Ears for Pendants
+  Index  _Peyronie[Peyrome]_, _la_, Surgeon, 292.
+  Index  _Popes_, the Days on which he[the] Cardinals kiss
+  Index  _Rochebone[Rochebonne]_, M. Archbishop of _Lyons_, 174, 176.
+  Index  _Terasson[Terrasson]_, Abbe, 243.
+  Index  _Tintorit[Tintoret]_, Painter, 359.
+  Index  _Tourlane[Touraine], la_, 216.
+  Index  _Walpot[Walpol]_, Baron _de_, 350.
+  Index  His Conduct in the _Cevennios[Cevennois]_ and in
+  Index  _Wassienaurs[Wassenaars]_, of _Holland_, 412.
+  Index  _William_ l. Pr. of _Orange_'s Assasination[Assassination], 425.
+  Index  Disputes adjusted relateing[relating] to his Succession,
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de
+Pollnitz, Volume II, by Karl Ludwig von Poellnitz
+
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