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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Captive in Patagonia + +Author: Benjamin Franklin Bourne + +Release Date: December 25, 2011 [EBook #38408] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA *** + + + + +Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration"> +<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:465px" src="images/illus001.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="caption">HUNTING THE GUANACHO. See p.70.</td></tr></table> + +<hr class="art" /> +<h1>THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA;</h1> +<p class="center f80">OR,</p> +<p class="center f150">LIFE AMONG THE GIANTS.</p> + +<p class="center f80">A</p> +<p class="center">PERSONAL NARRATIVE.</p> + +<p class="center f80">BY</p> +<p class="center f150">BENJAMIN FRANKLIN BOURNE.</p> + +<p class="center">With Illustrations.</p> + +<p class="center">BOSTON:<br /> +GOULD AND LINCOLN,</p> +<p class="center f80">59 WASHINGTON STREET.</p> +<p class="center">1853.</p> +<hr class="art" /> +<p class="center">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by +GOULD & LINCOLN, +In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.</p> + +<p class="center f80">STEREOTYPED BY</p> +<p class="center">HOBART & ROBBINS,</p> +<p class="center f80">NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,</p> +<p class="center">BOSTON.</p> + +<hr class="art" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">PREFACE.</p> +<hr class="short" /> + +<p>Book-making is so much of a trade, that it may be +thought quite unnecessary to be at the trouble to assign +reasons for embarking in it; but, as it is not my own +vocation, it will be allowed me to say, that the deep +interest which many, not only of my personal friends, +but others whom I never saw, have taken in my fortunes, +and the desires expressed, both verbally and by +letter, to know more of my adventures than was communicated +through the newspapers, overcame the reluctance +I felt to undertake such a task. The interest of +personal adventure, however, great as it might be in immediate +view of the events while they were fresh, would +not alone have been presumed upon as a sufficient attraction +for this volume. But the strangeness of the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span> +observed, and the deficiency of exact information concerning +its people, it was thought, would make welcome +any contribution, however slight, to the knowledge of +this section of our world and race. After the contradictory +statements of voyagers as to the “giants” of +South America, there may be some curiosity to hear +the testimony of one who has “seen the elephant” +under circumstances that enabled him to measure its +proboscis.</p> + +<p>My story is a plain one,—a simple record of facts, +but not, I would hope, tedious. It offers no feats of +literary agility for the critic’s inspection, but a recital +of human experiences and observations, sufficiently aside +from the beaten track of life to have attracted a degree +of attention which flatters me with the belief that they +will repay a nearer and more minute survey.</p> +<hr class="art" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CONTENTS.</p> +<hr class="short" /> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER I.</p> + +<p class="chap2">For California—Pernambuco—Straits of Magellan—Trading with Patagonians—Their +treachery—Four men made prisoners by them—Three +escape; the author detained, with promises of release on paying ransom—Indian +village—The chief and his household—Eating, sleeping, +and adventure in a Patagonian wigwam—Find myself booked for +an indefinite residence in Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon +<span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER II.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived—“Holland”—Discovery of +vessels in the straits—Double disappointment—A crisis—Survey of +Patagonia—Scanty vegetation—Animals and birds—Climate—The +people—Their habits and character—Domestic relations—Weapons—Government—Superstition—Cannibalism—Their +reputation abroad <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxii" id="Page_xxii">[Pg xxii]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER III.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Hard journey—Encampment—Division of the tribe—My new guardian—Story +of the capture of a British vessel—Reünion—Gambling—Culinary +arts—Hunting—Symptoms of danger—Mutual deceptions—Tough +yarns—The fatal ring—An effective oration—Indecision of +the Indians <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER IV.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Corey Inlet—Another disappointment—A hunting frolic with an unpleasant +termination—Moving of the camp—Aimless wanderings—Alarm—A +marriage treaty and an unsuccessful suitor—Laws of marriage—Qualifications +of a husband—Feminine quarrels—A marriage +in high life—Dressing meat—Profaneness—Absence of religious +ideas—Mysterious ceremony—Reasons for abstaining from religious +instruction—The metals—State of the arts in Patagonia—Tailoring +Fashion <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER V.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Inclement weather—State of my wardrobe—Attempts to deprive me of +my clothes—Powwow and horse-killing—Hair-combing extraordinary—Remedy +for rheumatism—Sickness—Turn barber—A cold bath—Fasting—Discovery +of my watch, and its effect—I am made +showman—Lion-hunt—Successful chase <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VI.</p> + +<p class="chap2">The chief’s oratory—A case of sickness novelly treated—The captive +commissioned as physician to the chief—Dr. Bourne’s first and last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiii" id="Page_xxiii">[Pg xxiii]</a></span> +patient—Murder—Cannibalism—Another assassination, showing the +perils of medical practice among savages—Sports of the children—Patagonian +farriery—Slender success in the chase—A second struggle +for life <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A new torture—Bloody gossip—An explosion nearly fatal—Plea of insanity—Reconciliation—River +Santa Cruz—Naval architecture—Original +mode of ferrying—Accident—Ominous demonstrations thereupon—Perilous +superstition—Plans of escape—The chief fighting his +battles over again—Prospects brighten—A blind hint to naturalists <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VIII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Retrograde march—A look-out ahead—New specimens of birds observed—To +the right again—Large inducements to visit Holland—Apparent +effect—Council—Other tribes of Indians—Story of a battle—Capture +of wild horses—A royal speech worth hearing—Deputation +to Holland—A start and a sudden halt—Journey commenced +in earnest—Order of arrangements—First view of Holland—A +weary day and night—A boat—A short parley—Swimming for life +and liberty—A rescue—Farewell to Patagonia <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER IX.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A civilized meal—A happy evening—A survey of the island—Preparation +of guano—Preparations against invasion by the giants—A proposal +to attack them—Loyalty and revenge—Killing time—Trouble<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiv" id="Page_xxiv">[Pg xxiv]</a></span> +in the settlement—A disagreeable situation—Arrival of vessels—Countrymen—A +welcome by new friends <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER X.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A Christian ship-master—Cruise for whales, and for a California-bound +vessel—An outlandish craft—An American vessel—Passage secured +for California—Tempestuous passage through the Straits of Magellan—Warlike +demonstrations, with an inglorious issue—Chilian penal +settlement—Pleasing reception—Extensive coal-mine—Sea-lions—Mutiny +of the convicts, and awful fate of the governor and chaplain <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER XI.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Port Famine—St. Nicholas’ Bay, and its inscriptions—Politeness of the +Indians declined—Difficulty of navigating the straits—A post-bag in +a bottle—An English steamer, and its humane errand—Exertions of +the British government to rescue prisoners in Patagonia—American +schooner—Celebration of our safe passage through the straits—Juan +Fernandez—News from home—A chapter of accidents—A trip to +Lima—Almost an adventure—Arrival at San Francisco—Journey to +the mines—A happy meeting <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER XII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result—Perils of waters—Sickness +and bereavement—Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco—Voyage +homeward—Imposition on shipboard—Panama—Havana—Home—Concluding +observations—Practicability of Christian missions +in Patagonia considered <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center chap">THE<br /> +CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER I.</p> + +<p class="chap2"> +For California—Pernambuco—Straits of Magellan—Trading with Patagonians—Their +treachery—Four men made prisoners by them—Three +escape; the author detained, with promises of release on paying ransom—Indian +village—The chief and his household—Eating, sleeping, +and adventure in a Patagonian wigwam—Find myself booked for +an indefinite residence in Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon.</p> + +<p>Among the early subjects of the “gold fever” that became +epidemic in the autumn and winter of 1848-9, a company +of twenty-five men left the port of New Bedford in +the schooner John Allyne, A. Brownell, master, and B. F. +Bourne, mate, for California. The vessel had been selected +for her good sailing qualities, light draught of +water, and general fitness for river navigation. In the +haste and excitement of the time, California-bound craft +carried out some rather motley companies; but we considered +ourselves fortunate in the character of the men associated +in this enterprise, and were organized on such principles +of equality as seemed to promise entire harmony and +good fellowship. Of course we had high and golden hopes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +and our great object was to reach the new Ophir in the +easiest and most expeditious manner. On account of the +delays and dangers incident to the doubling of Cape Horn, +it was determined to attempt the passage of the Straits +of Magellan.</p> + +<p>We left port on the 13th of February, and for many +days our time passed pleasantly, but rather monotonously, +with nothing greatly to exhilarate or to depress our spirits. +It was discovered, at length, that our vessel needed +some running rigging. The more impatient were for going +on, and making such headway as we could without it; but +a majority of the company decided to run for the nearest +convenient port, and replenish. We accordingly ran for +Pernambuco, and anchored in the outer harbor on the 25th +of March. The beauty and security of this harbor are +remarkable. It is defended from the sea by a nearly perpendicular +reef, extending three-fourths of the way across +its entrance, with an opening of ample width for the +passage of vessels to a safe anchorage. Being but eight +degrees south of the equator, the town lies continually +under the burning rays of a tropical sun. Its appearance +is like that of most Spanish and Portuguese cities, abounding +in high and massive buildings, with more of the castle +than of the counting-house or dwelling in their outward +expression, built upon narrow, irregular streets, that are +constantly alive with men and beasts of divers colors and +forms. Men from the country, driving their mustangs, +mules and asses, laden with produce; wealthy and noble citizens +borne by servants in palanquins; women bearing +water in buckets, tubs and urns, which they balance on +their heads without the aid of their hands, and walk off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +under as erect as so many midshipmen;—all the sights +and sounds have a pleasant strangeness, that made our +visits on shore highly agreeable. The churches, which are +quite numerous, have nothing admirable or attractive outside, +but the richness of their interior decoration testifies +to the prevailing orthodoxy and fervor of devotion to the +Church of Rome. The church is, indeed, the grand receptacle +of the wealth of the country. Every <i>bueno católico</i> +of them, rich, or poor, will sooner stint himself and his family +in their daily comforts, or even necessaries of life, than +omit his due contribution to mother church.</p> + +<p>Our stay at Pernambuco was short, which must excuse +a more particular description of its notabilities. Having +obtained the articles we needed, we stood out to sea. +Nothing occurred on our passage to the straits worthy of +particular record. We spoke one or two vessels, and +spent some time “gaming” with them,—the nautical +phrase for visiting. On the 30th of April we made Cape +Virgin, and stood in for the Straits of Magellan. In company +with us, and bound for the same golden country, by +the same course as ourselves, were bark Hebe, of Baltimore, +and schooner J. B. Gager, of New York. We were +becalmed off the mouth of the straits for several hours, +and Captain Brownell visited the Hebe. He returned just +before night. A fair wind setting in from the eastward, +we all stood in, the J. B. Gager, as being best acquainted +with the navigation, taking the lead. The three vessels +anchored about midnight, within twelve miles of the first +narrows.</p> + +<p>The next morning, it being calm, some of our men went +on shore in the small boat, for a gunning excursion. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +returned early in the forenoon, with a large number of sea-fowl. +Not long after, Captain Brownell announced his +intention to go ashore, and commenced making preparations. +He soon changed his mind, however, and asked me +to go, in his stead, to procure some fresh provisions, if they +were to be had. Knowing, from the reports of whalers +and others, something of the savage character of the +natives, I felt reluctant to venture; but afterwards, to +oblige the captain, I complied.</p> + +<p>Taking our guns, a bag of bread, and some tobacco, four +of us started for the shore. As we approached the beach, +a crowd of black-looking giants came to the water’s edge to +gaze at us. We did not particularly fancy their looks, and +lay on our oars for a considerable length of time. A recollection +of the many ugly stories current about the Patagonians, +their barbarous and cruel character, did not +greatly fortify our confidence, or make us especially anxious +for a personal acquaintance with them. We accordingly +lay off in our boat, and, hailing them in Spanish, +asked them if they had eggs, fowls, and beef. They replied, +in broken Spanish, that they had plenty at their +houses. I told them to produce their stores, and they +should have plenty of bread in exchange. We parleyed +with them for some time, till our boat at length touched the +shore. I stood in the boat’s stern, gun in hand, endeavoring +to keep the natives from stealing, and warned the men +not to leave the boat. They jumped ashore, promising not +to stray from the spot. The Indians offered some skins +for sale, which I paid for in bread. While my attention +was diverted from them by this barter, the Indians were +coaxing my men away. I looked about, and found only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +one man near me. He was despatched in pursuit of the +others, and directed to bring them without delay. The tide +at this point rises and falls forty-two feet. It was now +ebb tide, the boat was fast grounding, and, it being large +and heavily loaded, I was unable to get it off. The old +chief and several other Indians crowded into it, and once in +could not be got out. Persuasion was useless, and they were +too many to be driven. In short, I was in their hands, and +became immediately conscious of the difficulty and peril of +my situation;—my men gone, I knew not where, the +boat fast aground and crowded with the savages, while +nearly a thousand of the tribe congregated upon the beach. +What was before me, at the worst, I could only conjecture +from report; and nothing but evil was reported of the creatures +that surrounded me. What could I do? A question +easier asked than answered.</p> + +<p>After a long time, or what seemed such under circumstances +that made minutes seem ages, one of my men came +down, and asked permission to go to the Indian village, +“a little way back from the shore,” as they had been +promised meat, eggs, and fowls. I ordered him to come +immediately back to the boat. He persisted in urging +his request, but it was so dangerously absurd that I absolutely +refused. He then said he would inform his comrades +of my refusal, and return immediately to the boat; +but, for some cause, they seemed in no hurry to obey orders. +Weary of waiting for them, and not without apprehension, +I asked an Indian for the use of his horse, and +rode with all speed after the fugitives. In the hurry of +pursuit I inadvertently passed them, and tried to turn +back my steed; but his inclinations were decidedly against a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +retreat. While our opposing impulses kept us stationary +for a moment, I descried my men approaching on horseback, +behind the Indians. When they came up I urged them +to return to the boat. They persisted in going with the +savages. I remonstrated with them on the impropriety +and danger of their course, but in vain. Their mouths +watered for the meat and eggs they were told of. Their +cunning guides had completely allayed suspicion, and even +laid to sleep their common prudence. The Indians kept +on their course,—the men followed, and I felt at my +wits’ end. I rode from one to another, talking as industriously +and as urgently as I could. At last I gave them +peremptory orders to return. The Indians had plainly lied +to us. Their village, they said, was only a little way off; +and yet we were three-fourths of a mile from the boat, and +not a house was yet in sight. Determined to go back, if I +had to go alone, I turned my horse’s head.</p> + +<p>At this point the mask was thrown off. The Indians +seized my bridle, and arrested my progress. We all dismounted, +with a view to retreat on foot, but before I could +reach the man nearest to me the Indians had robbed him +of his gun. With a mutual agreement to stand by each +other in case of pursuit, we hastened our retrograde march, +but had made no great distance when we saw the Indians +coming after us. They rode in advance of us, halted in +our front, and manœuvred to cut off our retreat; but by +various zigzag movements, or boldly turning their horses’ +heads, we made considerable progress. Our foes, however, +knew what they were at; it was only a question of time +with them. A sudden and decided movement indicated a +crisis. I drew my pistols (a pair of single-barrelled ones),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +but before I had time to cock one I was jumped upon +from behind by some half-dozen of these monsters. One +of them grasping a pistol by the barrel, I pointed it to his +head and pulled the trigger. It missed fire, and I thank +God that it did! Its discharge would have certainly killed +him, and would as certainly have been revenged upon my +life, probably upon the lives of my comrades. This is easily +felt and said now; but at the moment, when excited by the +struggle for liberty, and, as I feared, for life, with such +dreaded enemies and at such formidable odds, it was quite +another matter.</p> + +<p>The old chief now came up, took me firmly by the wrist, +and said, “Usted no bono! usted habla varmano por me +casa, mucho, mala hombre currarhae! mucho montaro hombre!”—by +which specimen of choice Spanish he desired to +inform me that we promised to go to their houses, and now +would not go; that we were bad men and liars. His peculiarly +thick and guttural pronunciation did not make the +dialect more intelligible; but I was in a situation where +criticism would have been rather out of place, and my ears +were quickened by the revelations made to sight. I therefore +promptly replied, that if he would restrain his men +from violence, we would go where he pleased. They, meanwhile, +grasped their knives, and looked as if they wanted to +use them on our persons; but the chief told them, No, <i>not +then</i>; he would get rum and tobacco for us first, and kill +us afterwards. Whilst I was thus engaged, my nearest +companion discovered his gun in the hands of an Indian +who stood not far from where I was struggling. Rushing +suddenly upon him, he succeeded in recovering his piece,—more +by tact than force, for his antagonist, like all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +Patagonians, was very large and muscular. Then nimbly +jumping aside, he told me to look out for myself. That +was rather more than I felt able to do just at the moment. +One Indian seized me by my arms and legs, some of them +grasped my body, and others were busy investigating the +contents of my pockets, and appropriating the same to +their own use. And if he supposed himself able to show +as much independence as he recommended me to, he was +evidently mistaken. He had not elevated his gun to his +face when the Indians were upon him, and wrenched it +from his grasp. The old chief, all this time, held me +tightly by the wrist, menacing his followers with his half-drawn +cutlass, while I endeavored to bid for life and liberty. +I told him he should have plenty of rum, tobacco, bread, +flour, brass and beads, if he would carry us to the boat. At +length he beat off my plunderers, and seemed on the point +of yielding to my terms. He mounted his horse, and +ordered me to get up behind him. I obeyed with alacrity, +and fancied myself in a fair way to get out of trouble.</p> + +<p>But, whatever may have been the chief’s original intention, +I had not gone far before his policy was diverted. One +of the most audacious of the troop rode up, and insisted that +I should not be allowed to return. I was the captain of +the ship, he affirmed, and if I were restored they would +get none of the promised rum and tobacco. The old savage +seemed struck by this new suggestion, and halted. We +then dismounted, and he led the horse up the hill, ordering +me to follow. I was next directed to sit on the ground +and wait further action. There I sat, looking alternately, +with longing eyes, at the boat, and at our vessel riding at +anchor in plain view. My three companions were soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +brought to the spot, and dismounted. And now began a +more earnest negotiation. We offered large ransom, and +after some higgling they agreed that three of our number +might be released, but one must remain as a hostage; and +I was pointed out as the one. I endeavored to have one of +the others stay, and one actually agreed to; but his heart +soon failed him, and I could see that he was using all +his powers of persuasion to provide for himself. I assured +him that I would use every effort in his behalf, if he would +consent to remain for the present; but he evidently thought +of the maxim, “A bird in the hand,” &c., and was bent on +making sure of his own safety first of all. Poor fellow! +I cannot blame him for loving his own life, though, at the +moment, it did seem rather hard that, after getting into +the scrape by their own headstrong folly, against my entreaties +and peremptory commands, they should extricate +themselves from it at my expense, and leave me to bear +the hardest of it! Very likely I might have done the +same, if our cases had been reversed. And, even if one +of them had offered to remain, it is very doubtful whether +the substitution would have been permitted. The Indians +too evidently regarded me as the chief prize, and were +bent on retaining me as such. They insisted that I must +stay while the other three should go for ransom, and I had +nothing to do but to submit.</p> + +<p>Three Indians each took a man with him on a horse, and +started for the boat. I watched them as they went, with +feelings that I will not attempt to describe. It seemed but +too probable we should never meet again. A sense of desolation +came over me, at the thought of being left alone in +the power of these savages, of whose treachery and cunning<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +I had already had such ample experience, and of whose +cruelty I had heard so much. I felt that I was beyond the +aid, if not cut off from the sympathy, of my associates. +The falseness of the Indians to all their engagements, as I +afterwards learned, was signally displayed towards my more +fortunate comrades. They evidently had no intention of +releasing any of us. Before reaching the boat, they halted, +and refused to go any further, or allow our men to leave +them. The prisoners, however, struggled desperately, and +at length got clear of their captors. One rushed up to his +neck in water, the others sprang into the boat, pushed off, +and rescued him as he was struggling with the waves. +They reached the schooner, told their tale, and represented +my desperate situation. All hands commenced breaking +up cargo, to get at the rum and tobacco for my ransom. +Two boats were forthwith manned, provided with the required +articles, and with plenty of arms and ammunition, +and started for the shore. They got to the land a little +before dark, and pulled into a cove, or slight indentation +of the beach.</p> + +<p>On catching sight of them, I desired the Indians to conduct +me to the shore, and receive the ransom. But this +they declined. They ordered me to the summit of an +eminence near by, there to beckon the men to come ashore. +An old skin was given me to wave as a signal. Perceiving +that I was to be used as a decoy to lure the others into +their treacherous snare, and secure them all as prisoners, +I protested against this new breach of faith, and assured +them that our men would not leave their boat, but that, if +they wanted any rum and tobacco, they must take me to +the shore. To this, after a long palaver, and with visible<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +reluctance, they assented. The old chief ordered me to +mount his horse,—this time reversing our relative positions; +he made me sit on the rude apology for a saddle and +guide the horse, while he took his seat behind, clasping +both arms tightly around my body, and spurring his old +nag forward. Thus mounted, and wondering what would +be the next trick of the savages, I was conveyed to the +shore, near the spot where the boats lay off on their oars. +Driving as near them as possible, I hailed the men,—told +them by no means to fire on the Indians, but to give them +all they had promised. They asked what they should do +with the articles. I turned to the chief, told him what the +boats had brought, and once more asked if it was a satisfactory +ransom. He said, Yes; if those articles were laid +down, I should be released. But he was plainly resolved to +have his pay in advance; he distrusted us too much to let +me go first; and I need not say that my confidence in him +was far from implicit. But, “Nothing venture, nothing +have,”—I directed the men to put the things ashore, which +they did. The Indians greedily picked them up, and I +claimed my release. The old rascal said, “he had not got +<i>plenty</i> of rum yet, he must have a barrel.” I insisted and +struggled, but to no purpose. He kept a tight hold of my +body, and when I begged that at least he would not squeeze +me quite so painfully, he only redoubled his clasp. He +obviously suspected, and I more than suspected, that it +would not require a very great relaxation of his embrace +to prompt a pretty decided movement on my part, for the +effectual resisting of which the vicinity of the water was +not altogether favorable. He now began spurring his old +horse from the scene of action; I drew upon the bridle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +with my whole available force and weight; but the disparity +between human strength and horse power, stimulated +to its utmost by the spur, was too great. I begged +the men in the boats to come again the next morning, and +on no account to leave me, which they solemnly promised.</p> + +<p>I was now hurried back into the country five or six +miles, and at last reached an Indian village, and was set +down by the old chief at his wigwam. He gave me in +charge to one of his squaws, who ordered me into the hut +and bade me sit down on the ground. While sitting there, +and casting an inquisitive glance around the rude habitation, +my attention was suddenly attracted to what appeared +to be several pairs of eyes in a dark corner, shining +with a strange brilliancy. I speculated silently on the +sight, much doubting whether they belonged to human +beings or to wild beasts; but, on carefully reconnoitring, +I discovered that they belonged to three huge women. +Further investigations disclosed a number of dark-skinned +boys and girls, of divers ages and sizes, playing and +capering about the premises, in a state of perfect nudity. +It took a considerable time to make out these, or any +other objects, distinctly, owing to the darkness of the hut. +Presently the chief, the patriarch of the tribe, entered +his habitation, and began a conversation, in his peculiar +dialect, with his wives. He spoke in a low, guttural tone, +in words the purport of which I could not gather. I +was in no mood for conversation, but would have been +much gratified by learning his version of the day’s “stroke +of business.”</p> + +<p>And now a few dry sticks and a bunch of dry grass +were brought, mine host drew from a convenient repository<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +a brass tinder-box, with a stone and a piece of steel, +and soon produced a blaze that brilliantly illuminated the +scene. By its light I was enabled to survey the first +specimen of Patagonian architecture that had blessed my +vision. It was constructed in a <i>pointed</i> style, though not +very aspiring, consisting of a row of stakes about eight +feet high, each terminating at top in a crotch, or fork, +with a pole laid across them; two parallel rows of stakes +on either side, about two feet high, with similar terminations, +and a similar horizontal fixture; and a covering +composed of skins of the guanaco, sewed together with +the sinews of the ostrich, the only thread used by the +people. This covering is drawn over the frame-work, and +fastened by stakes driven through it into the ground. +For purposes of ventilation some interstices are left, but +these again are half closed by skins attached to the outside; +so that the air from without, and the smoke from +within (in default of a chimney), must insinuate themselves +through these apertures in great moderation. In +truth, my first survey was rather hurried; the first cheerful +gleam had scarcely set my eyes on the look-out when +I was fain to shut them against an intolerable smoke. In +no long time I felt as bacon, if conscious, might be supposed +to feel in the process of curing. No lapse of time +was sufficient to reconcile my eyes, nostrils and lungs, +to the nuisance; often have I been more than half strangled +by it, and compelled to lie with my face to the ground, as +the only endurable position. Talk that is “worse than a +smoky house” must be something out of date, or Shakspeare’s +imagination never comprehended anything so +detestable as a Patagonian hut. The chief and his numerous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +household, however, seemed to enjoy immense satisfaction; +and jabbered and grunted, and played their antics, +and exchanged grimaces, as complacently as if they +breathed a highly exhilarating atmosphere.</p> + +<p>My meditations and observations were shortly interrupted +by preparations for a meal. The chief’s better +half—or rather fifth part, for he had four wives—superintended +the culinary operations, which were as rude and +simple as the hut where they were carried on. And now +my fancy began to conjure up visions of the beef, fowls +and eggs, the promise of which had lured my men from +the boat,—had proved stronger than the suggestions of +prudence, and had made me a prisoner. But these dainties, +if they existed anywhere within the chief’s jurisdiction, +were just at present reserved. The old hag threw down +from the top of one of the stakes that supported the tent +the quarter of some animal; whether dog, guanaco, or +whatever, was past imagining. She slashed right and +left, with might and main, an old copper knife, till it was +divided into several pieces. Then taking a number of +crotched sticks, about two feet long, and sharpened at all +their points, she inserted the forked ends into pieces of +the meat, and drove the opposite points into the ground +near the fire; which, though sufficient to smoke and comfortably +<i>warm</i> the mess, was too feeble to roast it. At +all events, time was too precious, or their unsophisticated +appetites were too craving, to wait for such an operation; +and the raw morsels were quickly snatched from the +smoke, torn into bits by her dirty hands, and thrown upon +the ground before us. The Indians seized them with +avidity, and tossed a bit to me; but what could I do with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +it? I should have had no appetite for the dinner of an +alderman at such a time and place; but as for tasting +meat that came in such a questionable shape, there was no +bringing my teeth or resolution to it. While eying it +with ill-suppressed disgust, I observed the savages, like a +horde of half-starved dogs, devouring their portions with +the greatest relish; seizing the fragments with their fine +white teeth, at the same time clenching them with their +hands, and giving every sign of enjoyment <i>except</i> what one +is accustomed to see in human beings. The old chief remarked +the slight I was putting upon his hospitality, and +broke in upon me with a fierce <i>Por que usted, no munge +usted, usted carna? Esta carna mucho bueno hombre por +munge, se hombre, munge!</i> “Why don’t you eat your +meat? This meat very good to eat,—very good to eat. +Eat, man! eat!” I may here observe that my knowledge +of Spanish, like the chief’s, was colloquial; picked up +here and there in voyages to South American ports, which +may account for my orthography being so plainly determined +by the ear rather than by any rules of Castilian +grammar. Seeing him so much excited, and not knowing +what deeds might follow his words if I refused, I thought +it expedient to <i>try</i> to “eat what was set before me, asking +no questions;” thinking, moreover, that if there were +any evil spirit in it that the fire had failed to expel, it +could not possibly have resisted the smoke. So, being +sorely divided between aversion to the “strange flesh” and +fear of showing it, I forced a morsel into my mouth. Its +taste was by no means as offensive as its appearance had +been unpromising, and I managed to save appearances +with less disgust than I had feared. This was my first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +meal with the savages, and a sample of many others; +though better viands afterwards varied their monotony, +now and then.</p> + +<p>The eating being over, a large horn, that had once +adorned the head of a Spanish bullock, was dipped into +a leathern bucket and passed from one to another. Between +the bucket and the horn, the fluid had gained a +flavor not found by Adam in his first brewing, and, indeed, +not far from nauseating. However, it seemed expedient +to “conquer my prejudices” so far as to drink with the +other guests, and the ceremonies of dinner were over; for +which, “with all other mercies,” I felt thankful, and +turned to my corner near the expiring fire, to chew the +cud of sweet and bitter fancies, in which the latter ingredient +decidedly predominated. The strange and sudden +desolateness of my condition, the doubtful chances of +escape, the possible sufferings before me, the uncertainty +that rested on the designs of my savage captors, all +rushed upon my mind, and suggested to my heated imagination +a host of terrors.</p> + +<p>These painful thoughts were interrupted by an order +to prepare for the night’s repose. An old skin, about two +and a half feet square, was thrown upon the cold ground +in the back part of our rookery, and assigned for my +couch; I took possession accordingly, and the whole family +bestowed themselves in a row near me. The stifling atmosphere +was soon vocal with their snoring. My brain +was too busy for sleep. Feverish fancies kept me wakeful. +I revolved a variety of plans for escape. Could I steal +out of the hut unperceived? Could I find my way to the +shore? I doubted the first, and more than doubted the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +second; and even if so far successful, there was no boat +to take me from the accursed land. And how could I +conceal myself from the Indians till a boat should arrive? +They would miss me; and, long before any possible communication +with my vessel, would be hunting me down +with horses and dogs. Not a wood or thicket had met +my eye on the dreary waste I traversed the day before. +I tried to devise some other plan, but none offered itself. +It was this or nothing,—and this was next to nothing. +Grown desperate, at last, I determined to make an effort.</p> + +<p>After lying some time, listening to the heavy breathing +of the sleepers, and satisfying myself that none of the +company were awake, I raised myself as noiselessly as +possible, and stole towards the front of the wigwam. +Casting a furtive glance backward, I could see that the +old chief was restless; either he had feigned sleep, or some +evil spirit had waked him just at the wrong time. To go +immediately back would too plainly betray my purpose; +so I walked very calmly and deliberately into the open air, +and stood as if star-gazing; the old fellow, as I plainly +perceived, all the time watching me from the lodge. In +a short time I walked quietly back to my dark retreat, +and found him where I had left him, lying very coseyly, +as if nothing had happened to disturb his slumbers. +Once more stretching myself on my uneasy couch, I lay +two hours or more, still revolving the same unsolved +problem in my mind. At length, all appearing to be sound +asleep, I decided to venture a second attempt; and, in +the event of failure, to make the best of it for the present. +Stealthily as possible I crawled from among them, slid +out of doors, and crouched upon the grass. Could I be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +mistaken? No—those infernal eyes were fastened on me +as before! There was no eluding their vigilance. At +this moment a howling as of a hundred wolves was heard +approaching, and about that number of dogs came rushing, +pell-mell, towards me. I scampered for the wigwam +as fast as my feet could carry me, and in my flight +stumbled over a stick nearly eight feet long. I seized +the weapon thus kindly lent me, and, swinging it furiously +about me, gave all intruders that came within my reach +a sufficient touch of its quality. Thus defending myself +from the brutes, I backed towards the lodge, glad to shelter +myself among its detested inmates. The cunning old Parosilver, +as before, had bestowed himself on the ground +among his squaws and dirty children, and was, apparently, +fast asleep.</p> + +<p>This was more than I could compass. Vexation at +my fruitless attempts to escape,—dread, inspired by the +relentless vigilance and quiet assurance of the chief,—tormenting +apprehensions as to the issue of any effort on +the morrow to effect my ransom,—all kept my brain +upon the rack, and effectually drove sleep from my eyes, +till near daylight, when I fell into a disturbed slumber. +In my dreams I was at once transported from the savage +hut, on board my vessel. Methought she was driving before +the wind, all sails set, at full speed, upon a dangerous reef. +All on board seemed insensible of the danger; I alone +perceived it, but a nightmare spell was on me, and my +lips refused to speak, my limbs to move. Rooted to my +place on the deck, I stood in dumb agony, while our +vessel rushed upon her fate. There came a sudden +shock,—our bark had struck, and her total destruction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +was inevitable. Some of the men were dashed violently +upon the deck, others precipitated into the boiling surf, +where they clung desperately to spars, and fragments of +the wreck. While the confusion was wildest, and the +dream of effort for escape was subsiding into the calmness +of despair, I suddenly awoke, and for some time was unable +to comprehend where I was, or how I came there. If +I were indeed shipwrecked, I was also, like Jonah, vomited +upon dry land. I drew my hand across my eyes to assure +myself that vision was unobstructed, cast my eyes right +and left;—the lodge, the ashes of the last night’s fire, +the chief and his motley family, the door through which +the “lubber fiend” had followed me with his restless eyes, +and into which the fierce dogs had driven me, recalled my +distracted senses, and restored consciousness of a reality +which, at the moment, I would almost have exchanged for +the wildest terrors of my dream.</p> + +<p>With the light calmer thoughts succeeded, and I once +more addressed myself to the task of effecting my escape. +The first thing was to get the chief with me to the shore, +in readiness to meet a boat, and to renew negotiations +for my liberty. Observing that he was awake, I began +to promise him an abundant supply of the articles most +tempting to his fancy, on condition of my release. He +carelessly replied that he would go with me to the beach +by and by. I tried to urge his departure, being anxious +to go without the rabble at his heels the day before, but +for whose violence he would now hardly be master +of me; +but there was no hurrying his movements. He took down +his little cutlass, drew it from its brazen scabbard, and +commenced sharpening it with a rusty file, trying its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +edge with his fingers as the work went on, and casting side +glances at me the while. Whether this ceremony was +the preface to some act of violence he meditated, or a +scene for effect, to fill me with a wholesome dread of his +power, I could not guess; but, determined to show no +foolish fears, I thought it best to put a bold face upon +the matter, and make an equally striking demonstration +of courage and presence of mind, qualities which savages +generally appreciate. I therefore approached him, tried +the edge with my own fingers, praised the beauty of the +instrument, and interested myself in the process of sharpening +it. Following up my assault on his vanity, I extolled +him as one of the best of men, and assured him +that when we got to the shore I would amply reward him +for his kindness to me; taking occasion, however, to throw +in a hint on the vast importance of starting early. This +I enforced by the suggestion that, when he got his good +things, the fewer there were present, the fewer claimants +there would be to divide the spoils.</p> + +<p>After much coaxing, he started after his old horse; +I mounted behind him, and we moved slowly off. When +we arrived at the shore it was blowing a perfect gale. A +boat could not live in the billows. All three vessels had +dragged their anchors, and lay at some distance from their +anchorage of yesterday. Bark Hebe appeared to be dragging +towards the Orange Bank, a dangerous shoal. I +afterwards learned that the Hebe, after getting into water +as shoal as would barely float her, slipped her cables, +put up a little sail, and finally succeeded in weathering +the shoal and getting safely out to sea. The J. B. Gager +was dragging in the same direction. My own vessel was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +holding on better than the others, and I hoped she would +ride out the gale in safety.</p> + +<p>I made my captors understand the reason why no boat +had come, as promised; with which they appeared to be +satisfied, and we returned as we came. By means of +their broken Spanish, which they had picked up from +sailors, and in visits to the Chilian or other Spanish +American settlements, and by signs, amounting at times +pretty nearly to a pantomime, I found myself able to +understand inquiries or commands, and to make known my +wishes.</p> + +<p>Early on the following morning we again visited the +shore, and I looked eagerly toward the anchorage, where +all my hopes of deliverance centred. Not a vessel was +in sight! Whether they had foundered, or were driven +upon the shoal and wrecked, or had dragged out to sea +in a disabled condition,—or whether my shipmates, the +gale having subsided, had deliberately proceeded on their +voyage, and left me a prey to cruel savages and all the +ills of this inhospitable shore,—I was unable to conjecture. +I only knew that they were gone, and that I +was left alone to the tender mercies of the Patagonians. +No present means of escape appeared. The future, wisely +hidden from my view, suggested none to my imagination. +I told my captors the worst; that the high winds had +probably sunk the ships, and all that were in them. At +this intelligence they seemed delighted, and laughed immoderately, +as if such a calamity were a consolation for +the loss of their expected ransom. Their cruel glee could +add nothing to the weight of my desolation. My past +life was sealed up as if by an entrance on a new state<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +of being. I looked round on a bleak and cheerless region, +and forward on a life as barren of human joy, made up +of every species of suffering,—hunger, cold, fatigue, insult, +torture,—liable to be cut short at any moment by the +caprice of my tormentors, and so wretched that death +itself, with all the enormities of cannibalism, lost its terrors +by comparison. Life, for any good or great purposes +to be achieved, was over. And then my thoughts turned +to far different scenes,—to happy faces, and pleasant +voices, and familiar sights;—to hearts that beat with no +dread of this day’s calamities, felt no consciousness kindred +to my despair, but would, in due time, be rudely +awakened from their security. <span class="smcap">God</span> help me, for I am +helpless now!</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER II.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived—“Holland”—Discovery of +vessels in the straits—Double disappointment—A crisis—Survey of +Patagonia—Scanty vegetation—Animals and birds—Climate—The +people—Their habits and character—Domestic relations—Weapons—Government—Superstition—Cannibalism—Their +reputation abroad.</p> + +<p>Returning to the encampment, it remained to devise +some new way of escape. Some four or five days’ ride to +the westward would bring us to Port Famine, on the +straits, a penal settlement of Chili, and the only settlement +in the vicinity by which I could hope to reënter the civilized +world. A journey thither was suggested to the Indians, +as the most likely way of turning my captivity to +profitable account; but they refused with a promptness and +decisiveness which was rather unaccountable, till I afterwards +learned that they had lately visited that part of the +country on a horse-stealing expedition, in which their success +had been too good to make them desirous of showing +their faces there at present. Money, guns, pistols, cutlasses, +brass, beads, and everything else that could be +thought of to tempt their cupidity, were offered. I was +not disposed to be niggard of promises; but in vain. To +Port Famine they were determined <i>not</i> to go; but old +Parosilver assured me, by way of compensation, that he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +would take me to “Holland,” which was a “much better +place.” Whereabout on terra firma this South American +Holland was situated,—if, indeed, there was any such +place, and the chief was not indulging in a little extra +lying,—was past all conjecture. I inquired the distance. +He could not tell exactly. Was it inhabited by Americans +or English? There were “twenty or thirty white men +there, and plenty of rum and tobacco.” They promised to +start with me towards Holland the next day. In what +direction? They pointed towards the Atlantic. Well, I +cared little where it was, or who lived there, provided only +they were not Patagonians, and I could once get free of +these rascals. But on the following morning the migration +was postponed, in consequence of unexpected tidings.</p> + +<p>One of the tribe, who had been down to the shore, reported +that my vessel had come back. This welcome, +though rather improbable information, started me, with +about a dozen of them, on the track of his story. On +gaining a view of the straits, a vessel was plainly in sight, +but it was a strange sail. Yet, if I could succeed in +boarding her, my purposes would be answered. She came +into the bight of the bay, and anchored about fifteen miles +below us. I endeavored to make my smutty companions +comprehend that as the tide was then running out they +would not make the shore till it turned, which would not +be till night. They waited till near night, when hunger +and thirst wore out their patience, and they ordered me off +with them. Against this untimely mandate I warmly remonstrated, +and after some dispute it was arranged that +the chief should stay with me for the night. The rest +returned to their encampment, and we made a good fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +which was kept up till nearly morning. Old Parosilver +lay down under the lee of a clump of bushes, while I was +busy in active exercise to keep warm, and replenishing the +fire with dry bushes. At dusk I had observed the vessel +hoisting sail, and beating up the bay. On this I began +brandishing firebrands to attract notice, and walked to and +fro on the beach for hours. The craft gradually approached, +till her white canvas became distinguishable +through the surrounding gloom. Fresh fuel was heaped on +the fire, a bright blaze ascended; I took my station directly +in front of it, holding out my coat, and frequently turning +round, that my form and features might be more distinctly +revealed. And now a thrill of joy electrified me, as I saw +a light set on deck, which appeared to be stationary. +There could be no doubt that the vessel had come to +anchor directly opposite to us. Though hungry and weary +with long watching, I hurried about, and gathered sticks +and leaves in abundance to kindle a still brighter beacon-fire, +in whose light and warmth anxiety began to expand +into hope. At dawn of day, as the horizon lighted up, I +could distinguish the vessel lying about a mile off, quiet as +a sea-fowl on the calm surface. Presently there was a +movement on deck, the anchor was hove up, the fore and +main sails were hoisted, and the object on which my hopes +and ardent prayers had centred through the cold night +receded from view through the straits, bound, doubtless, for +California. I watched the fast-vanishing sail with tearful +eyes; and the old chief, who had been on the look-out, +started for his horse, that had been hampered and turned +out to crop among the scanty vegetation.</p> + +<p>Before I had time to recover from the first revulsion of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +disappointment and grief, <i>another</i> vessel, a topsail schooner, +came in by Point Dungeness. “Cheer up,” I said to myself; +“the sun will be shining, the darkness have given +place to the clear day, before this vessel can be up and +opposite to us.” Confident of being noticed, I began +active preparations for the approaching visitor. No rod +of sufficient length was to be found; but, after some search, +a number of short crooked sticks were collected. To lash +them together, I tore up my drawers, which I could ill +afford, and appropriated my shoe-strings. My flannel shirt +was hoisted as a flag; and having replenished the fire, I +paced the beach with colors flying, but, as the vessel approached, +with increasing faintness of heart; for the wind +gradually shifted, so that she could only take advantage of +it by heading towards Terra del Fuego. At last she came +opposite, but so near the further shore that the chances of +success diminished every moment. Dark objects moved on +the deck,—fancy painted them as men;—would they not +discover me through their glasses, and be drawn by my +signal of distress? No; onward she floated away,—the +narrows were soon passed, and my vision of deliverance was +dissipated.</p> + +<p>With this final death-blow to all present hopes of relief, +I turned away in despair. Exhausted by hunger, cold and +fatigue, and worn out by hours of anxiety, I fell helpless +upon the ground, and wept like a child. For the first time +I felt <i>utterly</i> forsaken, and repined at my lot as one of +unmitigated evil. Effort seemed useless; I had neither +resolution nor strength to make further exertion. There +was nothing for me but listless endurance. I even reproached +myself that I had not cast myself into the sea,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +and staked my life on the chance of swimming to the +schooner. There was no possibility of doing this; but +failure would have been <i>only</i> death, and what was life +worth to me here? This tempest of self-reproach soon +spent itself. My temperament is too buoyant to be long +depressed, and calm and stout thoughts took the place of +despairing weakness. It was unmanly, something whispered +within me, thus to give way before difficulties. It +would be time enough to do this when all possible effort +had failed. The weak and imbecile might take refuge in +despair, but the strength of youth should serve me better. +I called to mind examples of courage in greater emergencies, +when obstacles that seemed insurmountable had +been conquered by fortitude and perseverance. “Heaven +helps those who help themselves.” The more I reflected +on the matter, the stronger grew the impulses of faith and +courage, by whose force it seemed possible to win a triumph +against the greatest odds. Before rising from the earth, +my resolution was fully taken to throw discouragement to +the winds; by the help of God to meet whatever impended +with the courage of a man; to bear my calamities with +patient endurance; and to give up hope and energy only +when nothing was left to be attempted, or the power to do +and suffer was exhausted.</p> + +<p>I rose a new man,—my strength invigorated, my soul +fortified by a strong purpose. Though the cold night air +had thoroughly chilled my frame, it now felt a warmth +kindled by the fires within, and an unaccustomed flush suffused +my countenance. The resolve fixed in this memorable +crisis of my captivity, though severely tested, was +never wholly overborne. Henceforth, the events and scenes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +through which I passed were viewed with a calmness that +had been before unattainable, and which is now scarcely +credible, on recollection. So true is it that our strength is +unknown to ourselves till it is thoroughly tested.</p> + +<p>The hope of immediate release, however, was at an end; +my savage captors, it seemed, must be looked upon as for +an indefinite period my masters and companions; and I had +nothing at present to do but to divert myself by a study +of their manners and habits; to consult my safety by a +close study of their character, and of the ways and means +by which so to adapt my deportment to it as to win their +confidence, to disarm hostility, and to seize opportunities.</p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p><span class="smcap">Patagonia</span>, as it offered itself to my observation, more +than answered the descriptions of geographers,—bleak, +barren, desolate, beyond description or conception,—only +to be appreciated by being seen. Viewed from the Straits +of Magellan, it rises in gentle undulations or terraces. +Far as the eye can reach, in a westerly direction, it assumes +a more broken and hilly appearance, and long ranges of +mountains, extending from north to south, divide the eastern +from the western shore. The soil is of a light, sandy character, +and bears nothing worthy the name of a tree. Low +bushes, or underwood, are tolerably abundant, and in the +valleys a coarse, wiry grass grows luxuriantly. Streams +of water are rare. The natives draw their supplies principally +from springs or pools in the valleys, the water of +which is generally brackish and disagreeable.</p> + +<p>The variety of animal is nearly as limited as that of vegetable +productions. The guanaco, a quadruped allied to +the lama, and with some resemblance to the camelopard,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +is found in considerable numbers. It is larger than the +red deer, fleet on the foot, usually found in large herds, +frequenting not only the plains, but found along the course +of the Andes. Its flesh is a principal article of food; its +skin is dried with the hair on, in such a manner that, when +wet, it retains its pliability and softness. This process of +preserving skins seems to be peculiar to the Indian tribes, +and is not unlike that by which buffalo-robes, bear-skins, +buckskins, and other articles of luxury, and even necessity, +among us, are prepared by the North American Indians. +Guanaco-skins are cut into pieces of all sizes, and sewed +into a thousand fanciful patterns, every workman originating +a style to suit himself. The hoofs are sometimes +turned to account by the natives as soles for shoes, when +they indulge in such a luxury, which is not often.</p> + +<p>The enemy of the guanaco is the cougar, or “American +lion,” smaller than its African namesake, and more resembling +the tiger in his character and habits, having a +smooth, sleek coat, of a brownish yellow color,—altogether +a very beautiful but ferocious creature. His chase is a +favorite, though rare and dangerous, sport of the natives. +Patagonia likewise boasts of the skunk, whose flesh is used +for food. There are also foxes, and innumerable mice. Of +birds, the only noticeable varieties are the condor, in the +Andes, and the cassowary, a species of ostrich, smaller +than that of Africa, on the plains; its plumage is not +abundant, generally of a gray or dun color. Its flesh is +tender and sweet, and with the fat much prized by the +Indians. Like the African ostrich, it is exceedingly swift, +only to be captured on horseback, and often fleet enough to +outrun the fastest racer.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p> + +<p>The climate is severe. The Rio Negro forms the northern +boundary, and nearly the whole country is south of the +parallel of 40° south latitude. At the time of my capture, +which was in the month of May, the weather corresponded +to that of November in the New England States. Its chilliness, +however, was greatly increased by the bleak winds of +that exposed locality. Along the Straits of Magellan the +weather is also exceedingly changeable. Sudden and severe +squalls, often amounting almost to a hurricane, vex the +navigation of the straits, and sweep over the coast with +fearful fury.</p> + +<p>The habits of the Patagonians, or at least of the tribe +among whom I was cast, are migratory, wandering over the +country in quest of game, or as their caprice may prompt +them. They subsist altogether on the flesh of animals and +birds. The guanaco furnishes most of their food, and all +their clothing. A mantle of skins, sewed with the sinews +of the ostrich, fitting closely about the neck and extending +below the knee, is their only article of dress, except in the +coldest weather, when a kind of shoe, made of the hind hoof +and a portion of the skin above it, serves to protect their +inferior extremities.</p> + +<p>In person they are large; on first sight, they appear +absolutely gigantic. They are taller than any other race I +have seen, though it is impossible to give any accurate +description. The only standard of measurement I had was +my own height, which is about five feet ten inches. I +could stand very easily under the arms of many of them, +and all the men were at least a head taller than myself. +Their average height, I should think, is nearly six and a +half feet, and there were specimens that could have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +little less than seven feet high. They have broad shoulders, +full and well-developed chests, frames muscular and finely +proportioned, the whole figure and air making an impression +like that which the first view of the sons of Anak is +recorded to have made on the children of Israel. They +exhibit enormous strength, whenever they are sufficiently +aroused to shake off their constitutional laziness and exert +it. They have large heads, high cheek-bones, like the +North American Indians, whom they also resemble in their +complexion, though it is a shade or two darker. Their +foreheads are broad, but low, the hair covering them nearly +to the eyes; eyes full, generally black, or of a dark brown, +and brilliant, though expressive of but little intelligence. +Thick, coarse, and stiff hair protects the head, its abundance +making any artificial covering superfluous. It is worn +long, generally divided at the neck, so as to hang in two +folds over the shoulders and back, but is sometimes bound +above the temples, by a fillet, over which it flows in ample +luxuriance. Like more civilized people, the Patagonians +take great pride in the proper disposition and effective display +of their hair. Their teeth are really beautiful, sound +and white,—about the only attractive and enviable feature +of their persons. Feet and hands are large, but not disproportionate +to their total bulk. They have deep, heavy +voices, and speak in guttural tones,—the worst guttural I +ever heard,—with a muttering, indistinct articulation, +much as if their mouths were filled with hot pudding. +Their countenances are generally stupid, but, on closer inspection, +there is a gleam of low cunning that flashes +through this dull mask, and is increasingly discernible on +acquaintance with them; when excited, or engaged in any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +earnest business that calls their faculties into full exercise, +their features light up with unexpected intelligence and +animation. In fact, as one becomes familiar with them, he +will not fail to detect an habitual expression of “secretiveness” +and duplicity, which he will wonder he did not +observe sooner. They are almost as imitative as monkeys, +and are all great liars; falsehood is universal and inveterate +with men, women and children. The youngest +seem to inherit the taint, and vie with the oldest in displaying +it. The detection of a falsehood gives them no +shame or uneasiness. To these traits should be added a +thorough-paced treachery, and, what might seem rather inconsistent +with their other qualities, a large share of vanity, +and an immoderate love of praise. They are excessively +filthy in their personal habits. Hydrophobia, so to speak, +is a prevailing distemper; they never wash themselves. +Hands and faces are covered with dirt, so thick, and of +such ancient deposit, that their natural color only appears +in spots, laid bare by the mechanical loosening and displacement +of some of the strata, which curiously variegates +the surface. It is hardly necessary to remark that such a +condition of the skin is highly favorable to the increase and +multiplication of “the moving creature that hath life,” +wherewith their persons are abundantly peopled.</p> + +<p>The women are proportionally smaller than the men, +and rather inclined to embonpoint. The old chief had four +wives, though he had probably never heard of Mahomet or +his domestic laws. The rest of the tribe had only one wife +apiece. The women erect the wigwams, provide fuel and +cook,—if the operation should be dignified with that name,—in +short, all the drudgery falls to their lot. They are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +treated as slaves, but made, in most respects, as comfortable +in their servitude as the condition of their rude masters +will admit. When, however, their lords are excited by +gambling, or enraged for any or no cause, the fury of +passion is visited upon their defenceless heads, which they +bear uncomplainingly, with a meek submissiveness worthy +of better treatment. They are passionately fond of trinkets +and clumsy ornaments, such as bits of brass and copper, +beads, and the like, which they wear suspended from their +necks. A few of them had their ears pierced, and wore +brass or copper ear-rings; and many of them decked out +their children with similar rude finery, which is valued +more than anything else, except rum, tobacco and bread. +The men paint or bedaub their faces and breasts with a +kind of red earth. Charcoal is also used as a cosmetic. A +broad line of red alternating with a stripe of black, in +various fantastic figures, is a favorite style of decoration. +The women make themselves, if possible, still more hideous, +by the application of a pigment made of clay, blood and +grease. Some of them would be very comely, if only +cleanly, and content to leave nature less strenuously +adorned.</p> + +<p>The people are as deficient in the morals as in the refinements +and courtesies of domestic life; their licentiousness +is equal to their cruelty,—the filth of their persons +only too faithfully represents the degree in which “their +mind and conscience is defiled.” I saw no person, of +either sex, that appeared to have attained advanced age, +though it was difficult to judge of this. The oldest Indian +I remember to have seen did not seem to be above sixty.</p> + +<p>Their only wealth, aside from their huts, consists of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +horses, the stock of which is frequently replenished by +stealing from the Spanish and Chilian settlements. These +animals are, for the most part, of small size and inferior +quality, half wild, coated with coarse, shaggy hair—lean +and woe-begone enough, just “fit for the crows.” A few +valuable specimens of a superior breed are found among +them, doubtless “conveyed” there. The rude saddles in +use among them are mostly of Spanish origin, obtained at +the settlements. They consist each of two boards, an inch +thick, six inches wide, and two feet long, rounded at the +corners so as to fit the horse’s back, and united by two +strips of board passing across the back-bone, the several +pieces lashed together with leather strings. A piece of +guanaco-skin often serves in default of a saddle. The +steed is guided by a single rein, tied round the lower jaw; +some of them sport a bit of iron or wood, secured by a +string round the jaw, attaching the rein to this. Spurs, +like the rest of their riding apparatus, are more efficient +than elegant. They are indeed rude and cruel things,—straight +sticks, six inches long, with a long, sharp iron +inserted into the end, secured by a string or strap around +the hollow of the foot, and tied at the top, a second strap +nearer the heel, and a third passing round the heel. They +are all agile and excellent horsemen.</p> + +<p>For weapons, the chief, and a few of the principal men, +had cutlasses or swords. They had no fire-arms, nor could +I learn that they understood their use; bows and arrows, +spears and war-clubs, appeared to be equally unknown. +All the men carried knives; and the <i>bolas</i>, a missile +weapon used in the capture of all kinds of game. This +consists of two round stones, or lead balls, if they can be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +procured weighing each about a pound, connected by a +strap or thong of leather, ten or twelve feet long. When +engaged in the chase, his horse at his highest speed, the +rider holds one ball in his hand, and whirls the other +rapidly above his head; when it has acquired sufficient +momentum it is hurled with unerring aim at the object of +pursuit, and either strikes the victim dead, or coils inextricably +about him and roots him to the spot, a helpless +mark for the hunter’s knife.</p> + +<p>This tribe numbered about one thousand; the chief is the +acknowledged head of the people. Whether his power was +hereditary or elective, I could not learn; but incline to the +belief that it was hereditary, as it appeared to be, in his +theory at least, absolute. In all questions of importance +his decision is final; yet his subjects take considerable +liberty with his opinions, sometimes oppose his counsels, +and even question his authority. On the appearance of +such democratic symptoms, he sometimes finds it necessary +to assert his sovereignty with spirit, and brandishes his +cutlass smartly before their eyes.</p> + +<p>The habits of the people are not only filthy, but indolent +to the last degree; exertion of body or mind is their +greatest dread. They never go on a hunting expedition +till there is nothing more to eat, nor even then till they +feel the spur of extreme hunger. It sometimes happens +that at such a crisis a storm comes on, which shuts them +in; and it is no unfrequent occurrence for them, under +such circumstances, to pass two or three days without +tasting food. They learn nothing by experience; the +same childish indolence and recklessness, followed by the +same painful consequences, are continually recurring.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> + +<p>Though their great size at first sight was fitted to inspire +terror, it required no very long observation to discover +that they were deficient in natural courage. This, in fact, +might be inferred at once, from their habitual deceit, +treachery and artifice, which are the defences of the weak +and timorous, rather than the weapons of strong and daring +natures. They always select the night to inflict injuries; +never meet an enemy in open combat whom they can stab +from behind, or despatch in the dark; and, when obliged to +attack by day, always do so in large numbers. This defect +of courage is increased by their superstition; they have +great faith in charms, signs and omens, a weakness which I +anticipated might exert great influence on my destiny in +important conjunctures. Could I by any means so master +their secret as to possess myself of its mystic power, it +might prove an effective aid to my plans of self-defence, or +of escape. Should it, on the other hand, be turned by any +accidental causes against me, its impulse might prove irresistible +by power or contrivance. There was no appearance +of idolatrous worship among them, nor could I observe any +allusion to a Supreme Being, or to any superior powers +having personal attributes; and, except a single ceremony, +of which more hereafter, the nature of which was and is +still inexplicable, there was nothing that suggested to my +mind the idea of religious worship. Whether they are +cannibals or not, has been a matter of some dispute. So +far as I know, they have been, heretofore, only casually +observed on the beach by voyagers, or vaguely reported of +by the people of adjoining countries and neighboring settlements; +neither of which is a sufficiently reliable source of +information. My own personal advantages on this head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +were greater; but I am obliged, after all, to leave the +question about where I found it, so far as <i>certain</i> conclusions +are concerned. Yet some circumstances occurred, +or were related to me, that incline my mind strongly to +the belief that such horrible practices are not unjustly +ascribed to them. Of the soundness of my conclusions +those who follow the course of the narrative will have the +opportunity of judging for themselves; if such had been +my persuasion at the beginning, it may be readily imagined +what effect this last hazard would have had upon my +feelings, in contemplating the possibilities of the future. +Happily a convenient scepticism on this point preserved +me from this dark apprehension.</p> + +<p>I came among these people not, certainly, with the best +preparation in my previous habits and associations to endure +either the climate of the country or the hardships of +captivity. I went on shore in my usual ship’s dress; thick +frock coat, trousers, and shoes, and glazed cap. My under-garments +were woollen; though an important item, as +before related, was made way with in fruitlessly signalling +vessels in the straits. But to live without any change of +dress, to sleep without any additional covering, protected +from the cold ground only by a fragment of guanaco-hide, +and the other discomforts and exposures of life among +savages, made, altogether, a harsh contrast to the comforts +of our good schooner. To these, however, I gradually +became inured, till I was able to meet cold and wet and +storm with as stoical indifference as my dark companions, +who had known no other lot from infancy.</p> + +<p>Of the character of the natives I had little previous +knowledge; and that little was not adapted to stimulate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> +curiosity, or prompt the least anxiety for more intimate +acquaintance. It was derived mainly from whalers, in +whom it seemed to have produced much the same degree of +contentment,—a feeling that ignorance is bliss. Indeed, +the greatest caution has always been employed by voyagers +in regard to landing on these shores; many experienced +seamen cannot be persuaded to land at all; trade with the +natives is always carried on in boats off shore, frequently +with loaded fire-arms constantly levelled, in readiness for +action in case of emergency. But here I was, put forcibly +to the study of their character in the school of dame Experience, +and can testify to the truth of the saying that +she charges roundly for tuition. Let the reader give me +credit for the cheapness with which I put him in possession +of what knowledge was purchased at so exorbitant a price.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER III.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Hard journey—Encampment—Division of the tribe—My new guardian—Story +of the capture of a British vessel—Reünion—Gambling—Culinary +arts—Hunting—Symptoms of danger—Mutual deceptions—Tough +yarns—The fatal ring—An effective oration—Indecision of +the Indians.</p> + +<p>The reader left me just rising from a half-stupor into +which a double disappointment had thrown me, feverish +with the excitement of new purposes and resolutions. The +first aim was for some fresh water, to allay a burning +thirst. After a long and unsuccessful search, I went deliberately +to the beach and took a deep draught of the +briny waves. Expecting that the chief would shortly +return for me with a train of his followers, it occurred to +me that I might secrete myself, though there was nothing +certain to be gained by it, if I were successful, of which the +probability was not great. With this object in view, I +walked along close on the water’s edge, that my footprints +might be obliterated by the waves. After proceeding in +this way for some distance, I left the shore, and started +towards the interior, in quest of a place where I might dig +a hole in the earth and cover myself with grass and bushes. +I had gone but a little way inland, when, on ascending a +slight eminence, whom should I meet, face to face, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +old chief and another of my tormentors! So the scheme +came to nothing; but after others more feasible had so +dolefully miscarried, it was not in human nature to lay +this disappointment very deeply to heart. I made as +though I was glad to see the old fellow, though, could I +then have had my will of the savages, they would have +been safely anchored in the middle of the straits. I told +him (Heaven forgive me!) I was looking for them. The +chief responded to my greeting only by ordering me to +mount his horse. I requested leave to stay a little longer, +and was refused. I again requested to be taken to Port +Famine;—no, I should be taken to “Holland.”</p> + +<p>I mounted behind him, and we travelled all day in the +direction of Cape Virgin. For two days and nights I had +eaten nothing, and drunk nothing but sea-water, and, in +fact, had taken very little food for three days. We arrived +about dark at an eminence commanding a view of +their new squatting ground. Here we halted to take a +short survey of the encampment. To them, doubtless, the +prospect was beautiful; to me it was heart-sickening, but I +strove to keep up cheerful appearances. Down in a valley +or deep marshy hollow, covered with tall grass or rushes, +an almost innumerable drove of horses were seen grazing; +and beyond, at a short distance, the surface was thickly +dotted with huts, erected, or in process of erection, by +female architects. Children, in swarms like summer flies, +and with no more artificial covering than those insects, +were capering and shouting in high glee. At length we +descended to the rude village; after tacking about, first to +the right and then to the left, like a ship against a head +wind, we came gallantly into town, and drew up at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +chief’s lodge. I was glad to dismount, sore with bestriding +the skeleton of a horse.</p> + +<p>Here I again took the liberty of proposing a trip to +Port Famine, offering to go alone, if they would not go +with me. The chief told me, with emphasis, to say no +more about it. He would take me to “Holland,” and +there get rum and tobacco. “Only get me there,” I said +to myself, “and much good may your rum and tobacco do +your old carcass!”</p> + +<p>On the third day of our encampment here the tribe was +divided, and I was sent off with one of the chief’s lieutenants. +A more blood-thirsty rascal could not be found +in the tribe. This step was probably taken by the chief to +get rid of my importunities to visit Port Famine, the +frequent renewal of which had evidently worried him. My +new guardian regaled my ears, from time to time, with +stories of his murderous exploits, most likely in order to +instil into me a wholesome dread of his power, and a +submissive temper under his authority. The details of his +bloody yarns are too shocking to repeat. One story, on +which he seemed to dwell with peculiar satisfaction, as it +was confirmed by more reliable authority afterwards, I will +here relate, with such other particulars as I gained by +subsequent information.</p> + +<p>About two years before, the British brig Avon was in +the Santa Cruz river. Captain Eaton, her commander, +went on shore with his men, and bought some horses of the +Indians, which he paid for in rum, tobacco and trinkets. +After receiving their pay, they played the same trick as +with me,—refused to deliver the horses. The captain was +about getting under weigh, when the Indians, perceiving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +his intention to leave them, went down to the shore opposite +the vessel, and beckoned him to come on shore, +signifying that they would give up the horses, as agreed. +The boat was sent ashore, and six or eight Indians returned +in it to the brig. They surrounded the captain on the +quarter-deck, and told him the horses were coming. He +stepped to the rail with his glass, to observe motions on +shore; while thus engaged, the savages came up behind, +drew out their long knives, and stabbed him to the heart. +He sunk lifeless on the rail, and fell upon the deck. +Seizing him by the hair, and raising him partly on their +knees, they cut his throat, and stabbed him again and +again, to make the work of death sure. They then rushed +upon the mate and stabbed him, but not mortally; he +threw himself exhausted down the hatchway, and had just +strength enough to secrete himself among the cargo. The +boy was dealt with in the same manner as the captain, and +one or two sailors, being wounded, succeeded, like the +mate, in getting below deck and secreting themselves. +The remainder of the crew were fortunately off in a boat at +this time, and escaped the massacre. The savages ate and +drank on board, and then plundered the brig of such +articles as suited their fancy. Mr. Douglass, of “Holland,” +being on board the brig, was not murdered, but carried on +shore and detained. A gentleman named Simms afterwards +endeavored to effect the release of Mr. Douglass. +He gave them all that they demanded as ransom, and was +then himself detained to keep his friend company. A +third embassy was undertaken by Mr. John Hall, of whom +the reader will learn more hereafter. He paid a large +ransom for his two friends, and was then served as they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +had been. He succeeded in effecting his escape the next +day; but Douglass and Simms were carried off, murdered, +and, it is supposed,—I believe with good reason,—that +their bodies were eaten. The Avon, after being plundered, +fell into the hands of the remainder of the crew, and sailed +for Montevideo.</p> + +<p>I travelled with this ruffian about ten days. He was a +hard master, though I cannot charge him with personal ill-treatment +that amounted to cruelty. Our life was monotonous +enough. We slept a good share of the time when +we rested, drank pure water when we could get it, and ate +what fell in our way; though the reader may be assured +that we saw some hungry days. At the expiration of ten +days, the tribe was reünited at a place agreed upon. Here +we continued several days, the natives occupied exclusively +with gambling, which was alike their daily labor and +recreation. When the demands of hunger became too +imperative to be longer postponed, they would go out and +hunt, after which they resumed their games.</p> + +<p>Gambling is a vice to which they are greatly addicted, +and they pursue it with a perseverance and ardor worthy +of amateurs in more civilized communities. The implements +used are bits of guanaco-skin, about the size of +common playing-cards, on which are rudely depicted dogs +and a variety of other beasts, with divers mystic marks and +scrawls, done with a stick in a pigment composed of clay, +blood and grease. Unlike their compeers in more enlightened +circles, they put down stakes on only one side, +for which the opposite players contend. In this way they +rid themselves of their saddles, bridles, knives, and whatever +other portable articles they may have to hazard.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +Nay, I have seen them inflamed to such a passion as to +take the mantles from their women’s shoulders, telling +them to protect themselves from the cold as they could.</p> + +<p>But where was “Holland,” all this time? They told +me at first that we should be only four days reaching +it, and already more than ten had passed. On inquiry, +they said that the journey would be completed in six +days; on we went, for <i>sixteen</i> days more, with the same +dull routine, the Indians assigning seven or eight days +as the minimum time. The place seemed to be all the +while receding. I had long since become aware that there +was no truth in them; but persisted in questioning them, +to call forth fresh lies, which they uttered with marvellous +fluency, as if it were vastly easier than speaking the +truth.</p> + +<p>After the reünion of the tribe, I implored the old chief +to take me back to his lodge, and to his especial care; to +which he consented, much to my satisfaction. With him +I felt a kind of security unknown elsewhere; under God, +I relied alone on his protection. He alone of the tribe had +the power to defend me, and I spared no pains to secure his +good-will. To this end, I made him large promises of such +things as I thought would arouse his cupidity, or stimulate +his appetites, as well as an abundance of ornaments +for his wives and children, if he would only take me to +some place inhabited by white people. This policy was +extended to his household; disagreeable as the task was, +I forced myself to caress his dirty children, and to tell +them what pretty things I intended to give them. By +these, and such-like demonstrations, I flattered myself +it might be possible to keep on peaceable terms with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +old Parosilver, and enlist his authority for me, if circumstances +should compel me to appeal to it.</p> + +<p>The reünited tribe remained in camp three or four days, +dividing their time between gambling and hunting. When +I accompanied the hunters, as I sometimes did, I was sure +to get something to eat towards night, as they invariably +kindled a fire and cooked part of the game on the spot +where it was killed. Their method of preparing all meats +was essentially the same as has been described; tossing +large pieces into the fire, or suspending them over it, +till they were somewhat smoked and dried, and then devouring +them, without salt, or any other condiment but +the sauce of hunger. Cooking the ostrich, however, forms +an exception: the feathers are plucked out, the bones +dissected and removed; hot stones are placed within the +body, the skin is tightly sewed together, and the whole is +partially roasted on the embers. The lacings are then +cut, and the meat is served up; it has an excellent flavor, +far surpassing that of the domestic turkey. The bird is +covered with a layer of fat, half an inch thick, which is +melted, and collects in the body, forming a condiment +which is relished as the greatest luxury of Patagonian +living. If any fragments of the repast remain, they are +slung to the backs of the saddles, and so carried home, +dangling at the horses’ sides, till they are so begrimed +with dust as to defy all conjecture as to their quality or +origin. These choice morsels are proffered to the home +department, are received with smiles of gratitude, and +devoured with a gust sharpened by long abstinence. It +was noticeable that the plumage of the ostrich, though +beautiful, was not at all valued by the Indians; large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +quantities of the feathers are blown all over the country, +without attracting the least regard, while men and women +disfigure themselves with paint, and load their persons +with the cheapest of all trumpery, brass and copper and +beads, picked up from traders, or stolen.</p> + +<p>The hunting of the guanaco is not only their chief +reliance for food, but a spirited amusement, conducted +after a fashion peculiar alike to hunters and hunted. Patagonia, +as before mentioned, has no trees, but is covered +here and there, in patches, with a kind of under-brush of +scrub growth, and the plains extend back for hundreds of +miles from the Atlantic shore, like a vast rolling prairie. +This affords a clear and excellent hunting-ground, with +nothing to conceal the game, or hinder the pursuer, except +now and then a clump of low bushes, or the tall grass of +the marshes. Two to four hundred Indians on horseback, +bare-headed, and with their skin mantles about them, and +each having the bolas and his long knife tucked beneath +his belt, the whole followed by an innumerable pack of +dogs of every kind, down to curs of low degree, make up +a hunting party; as far as the eye can reach, their gigantic +forms, diminished by the distance, may be seen projected +on the horizon, their long hair streaming in the wind. +Presently a thickness is perceived in the air, and a cloud +of dust arises,—a sure indication that a herd of guanacos +has been beaten up, and is now approaching. All eyes +are fixed intently on the cloud; it soon appears as if +several acres of earth were alive, and in rapid motion. +There is a herd of from five hundred to a thousand of these +animals, infuriated, rushing forward at their utmost speed +whatever direction they may chance to take, they follow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +in a straight line; and, as soon as their course is ascertained, +the Indians may be seen running their horses at break-neck +pace to plant themselves directly in the course of the living +tide. As the game approach, the hunter puts spurs to his +horse and rushes across their track. When within twenty +or thirty yards, he jerks the bolas from his girdle, and, whirling +it violently above his head, lets fly. The weapon usually +strikes the head or neck of the animal, and winds +itself about his fore-legs, bringing him to the ground. The +hunter dismounts, cuts the victim’s throat, remounts, and is +again in pursuit. The whizzing missile, unerring in its aim, +brings down another and another, till the party are satisfied +with their chase and their prey. The dogs fall upon +the poor animals, when helplessly entangled by the bolas, +and often cruelly mangle them before the hunter has time +to despatch them. Seldom does any one miss the game he +marks. It is the height of manly ambition among them, +the last result of their training, to excel in the chase.</p> + +<p>The sport being over, then comes the dressing of the +meat. The body is split open, the entrails removed, the +heart and large veins opened, to permit the blood to flow +into the cavity. The Indians scoop up with their hands +and eagerly drink the blood. When their thirst is satisfied, +the remainder is poured into certain of the intestines +selected for the purpose, to become (to their accommodating +tastes) a luxury as highly prized as any surnamed of Bologna. +The ribs are disjointed from the back-bone, and, +with the head, discarded as worthless. The body is quartered, +cutting through the skin; the quarters, tied together +in pairs, are thrown across the horses’ backs, and conveyed +to the camp. Arrived at their wigwams, the chivalrous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +hunters never unlade their beasts, but lean upon the horses’ +necks till their wives come out and relieve them of the +spoil. They then dismount, unsaddle their horses, and turn +them loose.</p> + +<p>Whilst remaining at our present encampment, strong indications +of dissatisfaction were apparent, which manifestly +had reference to me. There was a large party that had +always entertained hostile feelings towards me; and I now +found it necessary to exert myself to the utmost to quell +their discontent, by making large promises of presents to +men, women and children, “due and payable” on arrival at +some white settlement; also, by humoring their caprices, +and flattering their vanity with the most honeyed words +at my command. The reader, I hope, will not harshly +judge of the deceptions which are here and elsewhere +avowed in this narrative. I was placed in circumstances +which, it seemed to me, made this a legitimate and necessary +mode of self-defence. It was plain that my only way +of escape would be by some negotiation for ransom, and the +Indians had conceived expectations of very large profit to +be made out of me. They were told, when we landed, that I +was the captain of the ship,—an unfortunate error, but +one that I could not repair. I was naturally looked upon +as so much the more valuable hostage. My only resource +was to act in character: to magnify my own importance, to +increase their expectations, whenever I found myself sinking +in the scale of their favor,—to make them feel, in short, +that they had an immense interest in preserving my life, +and getting me to “Holland,” or some other white settlement, +with the most convenient speed. And if some of +the fictions appear gross, it is enough to say that they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +were such as seemed, at the time, to be adapted to the +grossness of their apprehensions and desires, and to the most +sure accomplishment of the purpose in view.</p> + +<p>Yet, so false-hearted and treacherous were they, that +one could never be for a moment certain what impression +was made. Liars in grain themselves, it was only +natural for them to distrust every one else. Whenever +I spoke, and especially when making promises, the old +chief would look me steadily in the eye, as though piercing +my inmost thoughts. But, in process of time, I so +schooled myself to the exercise, that I could return his +look and tell the toughest stories without blinking. Some +of them were to the full as credible as those of Munchausen. +It was constantly necessary to put memory and +imagination to the rack, to call forth something new and +astonishing wherewith to divert their fancy, and preöccupy +their minds from meditating mischief against me, of which +I had continual reason to be afraid. Secure against any detection +of the plagiarism, I drew largely from the adventures +of Sinbad the Sailor, the marvels of the Arabian Nights, +and the cunning devices of Gil Blas, the materials of which +served, when duly mixed with my own veritable experience, +to excite their curiosity, if not to awaken awe and superstitious +reverence. They would sit around me for hours, +as eager as so many children, their eyes and ears all intent, +while in broken Spanish, mixed with a few Indian phrases +that had been grafted into my speech through the ear, aided +by abundant gesticulations, that shadowed forth and illustrated +whatever was obscure in expression, I spun yarns +of no common length, strength and elasticity. Sometimes, in +response to a general call from the company, the old chief<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +at the end of some marvellous tale, would command me to +tell it again. This was no easy task, considering the freaks +which my imagination usually played, without restraint, in +the progress of the narrative. In no long time, however, I +learned to imitate the prudence of boys who turn down +the leaves of their books, or of Indians who break down +the shrubs and twigs along a new path, by taking special +note of my deviations,—a sort of mental dog’s-ear, or +way-mark, interposed at the point of departure. It was not +difficult to retrace the way at their bidding, and give +them the whole journey, to its minutest turnings.</p> + +<p>The excitement and dissatisfaction which I had remarked +and dreaded appeared to have died away, when one night +I had startling evidence that it was still active. At the +usual hour of rest, as I was expecting every moment to be +ordered, like a dog, to my cold corner of the lodge, a gigantic, +ill-favored fellow made his appearance, and exchanged, +in an under tone, a few words with the chief. Without +comprehending a word that was passing, I could see, by +their significant glances, that the colloquy concerned me, +and that it boded me no good. The giant soon disappeared. +The chief sat a moment in silence, rose, and ordered me to +follow him. To the question where he was taking me, no +other answer was vouchsafed than “Come along!” We +had proceeded but a short distance when I observed a +group of Indians sitting in a circle on the earth. The sight +almost froze my blood. The most dismal apprehensions +seized upon me. There needed no wizard to tell the import +of the scene. The <i>fatal ring</i>, so much to be dreaded by +those who are cast upon the tender mercies of savages, was +set for me. The suddenness of it aggravated the blow. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +almost paralyzed thought, and arrested my powers of motion. +The catastrophe of the tragedy, I thought, is at +hand, unless arrested by the interposition of a higher power. +In my way to the dreaded spot I sent up a silent supplication +that He whose eye marked all my footsteps, and +whose power was all-sufficient for my protection against +utmost peril, would keep me in that hour of my “extremity,” +and make it, according to the proverb, His “opportunity.”</p> + +<p>Arrived at the ring, I found the Indians squatting on +the ice and snow awaiting us, with their cutlasses and +large knives tucked under their blankets,—weapons they +never carry except when they expect to use them. I was +ordered within, and seated myself as near as possible to +the chief. They presently began talking in rotation, as they +sat, in their own tongue. Their words were mainly unintelligible; +but the deadly malice that flashed from the eyes, +kindled in the features, and animated the gesticulations, of +some of them, left no room to doubt the significance of their +speech. A part of them were clamorous against my life, as +they had constantly been. Others appeared to be irresolute, +and said little; but, so far as could be discovered, no +voice was raised in my favor. The chief spoke last,—I +hung upon his lips, and anxiously scrutinized his face and +action. I gathered that he was in favor of holding on a +while longer, and using me as a decoy, to lure others within +their power; reminding them of my promises,—the quantities +of rum and tobacco they were to get from me, the +trinkets destined for women and children. He was for getting +the booty before cutting the matter short with me. +His remarks evidently had great weight with the council,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +and exerted a soothing effect on all of them. At this point +I thought it a meet season to impress upon their minds that +I was of some consequence in the world, and asked leave to +speak for myself, which was granted. Thereupon I launched +forth in an oration, the chief acting as interpreter, and +retailing it to the circle sentence by sentence:</p> + +<p>“Buenos Senores! Me mucho Grande Americano capitan, +mismo commodant mucho mass, mucha barca, mucha +galeta, muchos soldados, muchos marinarios. Me tene +mucho mucho big guns, bastante poquito mismo bastante, +cutlass, pistols mucho bastante. Vuestros hombres buenos +per me, mi marinarios, mi soldados, buenos per vos. Othro +corso usted malo rumpe me,” &c. &c. &c. In such a jumble +of Spanish, English and Indian, duly set off with grimace +and gesture, I gave them to understand that they were +dealing with no inferior personage, but with one who was at +home as good as the president; one having at command +abundance of steamships and sailing vessels of all sorts, +with soldiers and mariners, big guns and little guns, pistols +and cutlasses. That if they were good to me they would +receive good from me and mine; but that, if they did me +any harm, men would come from North America in numbers +as incalculable as the hairs of their heads, and kill +every mother’s son of them. Furthermore, if they would +take me to some white settlement, whether American, English, +French or Spanish, I would order the white people to +give them rum, tobacco, flour, rice, sugar and tea. <i>Of +course</i> the white men could do no less than obey, and they +would thus be enabled to indulge themselves in luxuries +almost without limit.</p> + +<p>It was evident, at a glance, that my speech was seasonable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +and took effect in the right quarter. Their eyes stood out +with wonder, and the sternness of their countenances was +relaxed. They acquiesced in the proposal to postpone final +action for the present, and see what could be made out of me +before doing their worst. In a few days, they said, they +would take me to “Holland;” but, no matter what time was +limited, that “undiscovered country” seemed continually further +off,—“a name” without any “local habitation.” Their +conduct in this was determined, as I was afterwards assured, +by the fact that they were entirely undecided what to do +with me. They longed for the good things I had told them +of, and their greedy appetites could only be satisfied by +taking me to a white settlement. On the other hand, they +were painfully suspicious that I meant to give them the +slip, and dreaded the result of bringing me into the vicinity +of any settlement; while, at the same time, my grandiloquent +assumptions and lofty threats made them shrink from +the thought of doing me serious harm. The big guns and +little guns greatly disturbed their imaginations. In short, +I seemed to them an ugly customer—bad to keep, and bad +to get rid of. They temporized, therefore, promised and +hesitated, and postponed, and promised again. There was +no use in trying to hurry their movements. So I gave them +line upon line, seeking every opportunity to deepen the +troublesome impression that they assumed a mighty responsibility +when they made me a prisoner, and that their welfare +depended greatly on the issue.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IV.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Corey Inlet—Another disappointment—A hunting frolic with an unpleasant +termination—Moving of the camp—Aimless wanderings—Alarm—A +marriage treaty and an unsuccessful suitor—Laws of marriage—Qualifications +of a husband—Feminine quarrels—A marriage +in high life—Dressing meat—Profaneness—Absence of religious +ideas—Mysterious ceremony—Reasons for abstaining from religious +instruction—The metals—State of the arts in Patagonia—Tailoring—Fashion.</p> + +<p>The next move of the tribe brought us within about a +mile of Corey Inlet. The day after we halted, in full view +of the south Atlantic, on looking out upon the water, two +masts were plainly descried, evidently those of some vessel +running down to this inlet. On going up an elevation commanding +a better view, it proved to be a topsail schooner. +She had undoubtedly mistaken this false cape for Cape +Virgin, at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan. I pointed +out the vessel to the Indians, and requested them to take +me to the shore, that I might, if possible, communicate with +her and be ransomed. After some delay, they complied; +but, as we approached the beach, she was seen suddenly to +haul off the shore and stand down the coast, having probably +found out her mistake. We made all possible haste to +gain the beach before she could have time to pass out of +sight. I mounted a tall cliff, where I could distinctly see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +the men on deck, and, standing on the horse’s back, waved +my jacket, and made every possible demonstration to attract +their notice. All in vain. The little vessel sailed steadily +on, as if in mockery of my hopes. I watched her receding +figure with an aching heart, till she vanished from sight. +Thoughts of home and its familiar circle, of lost enjoyments, +and of the suffering that must be a guest there, had long +tantalized my sleeping and embittered my waking dreams. +These were quickened and concentrated in a burning focus, +by the light of such a vision from the world of my past +existence, only to inflict the keener torture upon my sensibilities. +My situation became more intolerable by every +fresh disappointment. It was almost enough to drive me +mad. Must I, then, give up all hope of rescue?</p> + +<p>A few minutes passed, and the tempest of feeling passed +with them. Reflection convinced me that the indulgence +of such feelings was not only useless, but actually pernicious, +as tending to unfit me for rational and successful contrivance. +My condition, truly, was dreadful; so much the +more necessary was it to exercise the most calm and patient +and self-possessed prudence, in order to devise and execute +any purpose of escape. Like the surgeon who looks with +steady nerve on the quivering frame subjected to his knife, +I must nerve myself to look the gloomy problem of my lot, +without shrinking, fully in the face, and keep my emotions, +in all circumstances, strictly under the control of the +calculating judgment; a maxim, like many others, much +easier uttered now than to be thought of then, and far +easier asserted than exemplified. Fully bent on effecting +my deliverance in some way, to the discovery of which all +possible ingenuity was to be directed, my resolutions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +self-control were heroic enough. But to fulfil them,—to +repress and disregard all those sympathies to which my +whole being was bound,—this was indeed labor, too great, +I often feared, to be accomplished. When the stress of +inward conflict oppressed me, I would spring from my +crouching-place in the lodge, rush into the open air, and +seize upon every object that could in any degree divert +attention and divide my thoughts. These exertions, with +God’s blessing, sufficed to restore, in some tolerable measure, +the mental equilibrium, and to rescue me from the +dominion of feelings the unrestrained action of which +would have driven me to madness.</p> + +<p>During our stay of three or four days at this encampment, +I had become so wearied with the monotony of their +idleness, broken only by their desperate gambling,—the +only thing, besides the chase, with which the Indians occupied +themselves,—that for variety’s sake, to divert my +often-desponding moods, and to kill time, which hung +heavily on my hands, I concluded to go out on a hunting +frolic. Having procured a horse of the chief, and encased +my lower extremities in a pair of native boots, much +warmer than the ship shoes in which I had endured the +cold, I set out with quite a party. We had gone six or +eight miles, when I stopped for a short time, the rest of the +troop riding off without regarding me. On remounting my +charger, I put him to his utmost speed, in order to overtake +them. While driving on at a furious rate, he stumbled and +came to the ground, throwing his luckless rider over his +head twenty feet or more, upon the hard, frozen ground. +One ankle was severely sprained, and my whole body more +or less bruised. So severe, indeed, was the shock, that I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +have occasional reminders of it to this day. No time was +to be lost; and, with considerable effort, and no little pain, +I succeeded in remounting. The swelling of my foot soon +made my borrowed boots extremely uncomfortable, and I +wished myself safely back at the lodge; but, at whatever +expense of suffering, I had no resource but to follow the +hunters till such time as they should see fit to return. +The remembrance of that day’s torment will not soon be +lost. We arrived at the camp late in the evening; and, +having been unsuccessful in the chase, went supperless to +bed. On crawling into the hut and removing my boots, a +sad sight was disclosed; but there was no present remedy. +Dragging myself wearily into my corner, I had just +crouched upon the skin, which had served for a saddle +during the day and was still reeking from the horse’s back, +when a great dog came along, and threw his whole weight +upon the lame foot, causing me to scream aloud for the +pain. I drew back the serviceable foot, and gave him a +kick that sent him through the fire and against the front +of the lodge. Sleep kept at a distance till near morning, +when I gained a brief oblivion of suffering.</p> + +<p>Day at last dawned, and with the morning’s light came +the busy note of preparation for removal. Down came the +tents; the squaws packing up the furniture, and the Indians +chasing and lassoing their horses. The noise and +confusion, disagreeable enough under any circumstances, +made the scene no inapt representative of chaos, from +which I was glad to be delivered on the most expeditious +terms possible; and I was easily persuaded to try my +fortune again in the chase, more especially as we had nothing +for breakfast. No words can do more than partial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +justice to one of these moving scenes. Not only the skin +roofs of their wigwams, but the stakes and poles which constitute +the frames, are carried along with them. Their +furniture gives them little trouble, seldom consisting of +more than the skins on which they sleep, an ox-horn tinder-box, +a few sticks for roasting meat, and a leathern water-bucket. +Tents and furniture are all packed together on +their horses’ backs. The pappooses in travelling are lashed +to a kind of wooden sledge, rounded at the ends like sleigh-runners, +and crossed with narrow slats, that bind the parts +strongly together. The little brats are bound upon these +machines, which are so shaped that their heads and feet are +much below the general level of their bodies,—a very uncomfortable +position for the youngsters, if they have as +much sensibility to pain as other children, of which I +incline to doubt, as they are inured from birth to almost +every species of hardship. The sledge, with its living +burden, is thrown across the horse’s back, and made fast to +the load. The mother mounts to the top of the pack, +resting her feet on the horse’s neck, and armed with a +cudgel, with which she vigorously belabors the beast, right +and left. The pappooses, not liking the quarters assigned +to them, set up a general squalling. Mothers and maiden +aunts join in full chorus, drawling out, at the top of their +voices, “Hōrī! mutty, mutty! Hōrī! mutty, mutty!” +without the least change, to the thousandth repetition. +All these arrangements are made with remarkable celerity—in +thirty minutes not a tent is left standing, but the +whole tribe, their tenements and chattels, wives and brats, +are all packed upon horses, and the motley cavalcade moves +off like an army of beggars on horseback.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> + +<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration"> +<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:482px" src="images/illus068.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="caption">BREAKING UP OF CAMP.</td></tr></table> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the present occasion the movement was delayed, +while we rode in search of something to eat. The chase +was unsuccessful, scarcely enough being obtained to more +than sharpen our appetites for dinner. The scanty meal +being over, the whole company began their journey, which +in its tortuous windings was not unlike that of the +Israelites in the wilderness, but unlike that in the respect +that we seemed to have no particular destination or object, +except to explore new hunting-grounds, and gratify the +capricious restlessness of the Indians. One very desirable +end was answered,—we got enough to eat, as we were successful +in killing a large quantity of game. The Indians, +it was noticeable, were never at a loss to find their camps. +So familiar did they seem with all their haunts and the +general shape of the country, that though the surface presented +to my eye scarcely any distinguishable way-marks, +they would strike off from any point, however distant, and +go with unerring aim straight to their tents. In returning +laden with booty to our new homes, I was surprised to +observe no indications whatever of water in the vicinity; +a singular departure, at first sight, from their invariable +custom, so far as I had noticed. Very soon the squaws +issued from their huts, each with her leathern bucket. +Curiosity prompted me to follow them a little way, when a +spring was discovered, from which they had to dip the +water with their ox-horn cups till the buckets were filled.</p> + +<p>About this time a new phase of life presented itself, to +cast light on an important item of the social economy +established in Patagonia. Looking out of our wigwam one +evening just at dusk, I noticed an unusual concourse of +Indians about two hundred yards distant. There were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +fifty or more, headed by one of the most ruffianly rascals +in the tribe, marching in the direction of our lodge. I +spoke to the chief about it, whereupon he went immediately +to the back of the hut, and sat down on his little +bed, his cutlass hanging beside him from a knot of one of +the stakes. This he took down, laid it across his knees, +and folded his arms. Something, I saw, was wrong. In +anticipation of the worst that might befall me, I had +found, a short time before, the handle of an old knife +among the chief’s trumpery, and also an odd blade; these +I had put together, and the chief permitted me to carry it +about my person, the only weapon he allowed me. I now +planted myself on my knees beside him, and prepared to +sell my life as dearly as possible, should the mob enter +with evil designs towards me. The consciousness that I +was in their power, and was sure to have the worst of any +serious quarrel, made it my study to keep the peace with +them as far as circumstances would admit; but there was +a limit to my control of events, a very narrow limit, +which I had constant reason to fear would be overborne +by the impetuous hatred of my enemies, when nothing +would be left but desperate resistance. Such a crisis +seemed near, when the chief was himself reduced to a +defensive attitude, and was indeed besieged in his own +lodge.</p> + +<p>The motley throng surrounded the hut, their numbers +constantly swelled by fresh arrivals; some were squat +upon the ground, others peeping through the crevices. +Presently one of the number addressed the chief, and the +two conversed for some time in a low and unintelligible, +but decided and emphatic tone. The crowd outside appeared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +to be a good deal excited, and kept up a continuous +hum of rapid conversation. I looked and listened, with +mingled curiosity and dread, while the chief repeated the +same thing over and over again, in a firm, authoritative +tone, tinged with anger. Unable to conjecture what was +on foot, or to bear any longer the agony of suspense, I +patted him familiarly on his naked breast, told him he had +“a good heart,” begged that he would not suffer the +Indians to harm me. “You go sleep,” was his answer; +“no Indians come into this house to-night.” I inquired +what they were after, but no answer was vouchsafed, and +he resumed his mysterious colloquy with the outsiders. +The idea of sleeping under such circumstances was out of +the question; I was wide awake, and bent on keeping +so,—sorely bewildered at the strange goings on, and not +a little terrified, but holding fast by my sole weapon of +defence, and waiting a favorable opportunity to interpose +another inquiry. The chief turned his head; and, perceiving +my vigilance, repeated in an angry tone his injunction +to sleep. This was a drop too much; and, clasping +my arms about his dirty neck, patting his breast, and looking +(with as confiding an air as I could assume) into his +dull eyes, I begged him to speak to me, to tell me what +these men wanted. “Do they want to break my head?”</p> + +<p>“The men don’t want to hurt you,” he said; “Indian +wants a girl for his wife; poor Indian, very poor, got no +horses nor anything else. I won’t give him the woman.”</p> + +<p>So speedy a descent from the height of my fears was not +satisfactory; it was impossible to credit this explanation +of such a formidable scene. I apprehended that it was a +pure fiction, extemporized for the purpose of quieting me;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +but, as he seemed more communicative, I swallowed my +doubts, and questioned him further. “What does poor +Indian say?”</p> + +<p>“Says he’ll steal plenty horses when we get where +they are, and give the woman plenty of grease. Says he +is a good hunter, good thief.”</p> + +<p>These high titles to consideration did not seem to be +admitted by the party they were offered to conciliate; on +the contrary, the chief pronounced him a sleepy mink-skin +of a fellow,—no thief at all; one that would never own a +horse in the world. This opinion, which he was good +enough to favor me with, he communicated to the party +chiefly concerned, telling him that he was a poor, good-for-nothing +Indian, he should not have the woman, and +that was the end of it. After a little more jabber, and +abundance of wrangling, the mob dispersed, much to my +relief. Satisfied, by further conversation on the subject +with old Parosilver, whose triumph over the mutiny had +put him into better temper than usual, that the affair did +not imminently concern my safety or welfare, I lay down +to rest.</p> + +<p>In answer to further inquiries,—for I must plead guilty +to a good deal of curiosity in respect of the poor Indian +and his blasted hopes,—I was informed that without the +chief’s consent no marriage was permitted; that, in his +judgment, no Indian who was not an accomplished rogue,—particularly +in the horse-stealing line,—an expert hunter, +able to provide plenty of meat and grease, was fit to have +a wife on any terms. He never gave his consent for +such lazy ones to take an extra rib; but, he very considerately +added, all the difference it made was that some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +one else had to support the squaw till her suitor proved +himself worthy, and acquired sufficient wealth to justify +taking her to his wigwam; and, if he cared much for his +<i>coury</i>, he would not be long in earning her; it would make +him a first-rate thief,—the most indispensable title to +favor in the tribe. It appeared that the possession of two +horses, one for himself and one for his intended, was regarded +as the proper outfit in a matrimonial adventure.</p> + +<p>The women are somewhat given to quarrelling among +themselves; and, when their “combativeness” is once +active, they fight like tigers. Jealousy is a frequent occasion. +If a squaw suspects her liege lord of undue familiarity +with a rival, she darts upon the fair enchantress with the +fury of a wild beast; then ensues such a pounding, scratching +and hair-pulling, as beggars description. The gay +deceiver, if taken by surprise, slips quietly out, and stands +at a safe distance to watch the progress of the combat, +generally chuckling at the fun with great complacency. +A crowd gathers round to cheer on the rivals; and the +rickety wigwam, under the effect of the squall within, +creaks and shivers like a ship in the wind’s eye.</p> + +<p>While the <i>contract</i> of marriage is so jealously regarded +by the chief as to be subject to a veto in every case where +a proposed match appears in his eyes unsuitable, the +<i>ceremony</i> is literally nothing at all. Due sanction having +been given by the supreme authority, the bridegroom takes +home his bride for better or worse, without any of the +festivity which graces similar occasions elsewhere. About +this time,—for, as I had no means of journalizing my experience, +or even keeping the reckoning of weeks and +months, it is quite impossible to assign dates,—a matrimonial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +transaction took place, accompanied by unusual +solemnities. The rank of one party, and the extraordinary +accessories of the occasion, will justify a particular notice +of this “marriage in high life.”</p> + +<p>One evening, the chief, his four wives, two daughters, +an infant granddaughter, and myself, were scattered about +the lodge, enveloped in a smoke of unusual strength and +density. While the others sat around as unconcerned as +so many pieces of bacon, I lay flat, with my face close to +the ground, and my head covered with a piece of guanaco-skin, +the only position in which it was possible to gain +any relief from the stifling fumigation. While in this +attitude, I fancied I heard the tramp of many feet without, +and a confused muttering, as if a multitude of Indians +were talking together. Presently a hoarse voice sounded +in front, evidently aimed at the ears of some one within, +to which the chief promptly replied. I caught a few +words,—enough to satisfy me that I was not the subject of +their colloquy, but that there was a lady in the case,—and +listened curiously, without any of the fright which grew +out of the previous negotiations. The conversation grew +animated, and the equanimity of his high mightiness the +chief was somewhat disturbed. I cast a penetrating glance +into the smoke at the female members of our household, +to discern, if possible; whether any one of them was +specially interested. One look was sufficient; the chief’s +daughter (who, by the way, was a <i>quasi</i> widow, with one +hopeful scion springing up by her side) sat listening to +the conversation, with anxiety and apprehension visible in +every feature. Her mother sat near her, her chin resting +upon her hand, with an anxious and thoughtful expression<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +of countenance. The invisible speaker without, it soon +appeared, was an unsuccessful suitor of the daughter, and had +come with his friends to press his claim. He urged his suit, +if not with classic, with “earnest” eloquence, but with success +ill proportioned to his efforts. The chief told him he +was a poor, good-for-nothing fellow, had no horses, and was +unfit to be his son-in-law, or any one else’s. The outsider +was not to be so easily put off; he pressed his suit with +fresh energy, affirming that his deficiency of horses was +from want of opportunity, not from lack of will or ability +to appropriate the first that came within his reach. On the +contrary, he claimed to be as ingenious and accomplished a +thief as ever swung a lasso or ran off a horse, and a mighty +hunter besides, whose wife would never suffer for want of +grease. The inexorable chief hereat got considerably excited, +told him he was a poor devil, and might be off with +himself; he wouldn’t talk any more about it.</p> + +<p>The suppliant, as a last resort, appealed to the fair one +herself, begging her to smile on his suit, and assuring her, +with marked emphasis, that, if successful in his aspirations, +he would give her <i>plenty of grease</i>. At this last argument +she was unable to resist longer, but entreated her father to +sanction their union. But the hard-hearted parent, not at +all mollified by this appeal from his decision to an inferior +tribunal, broke out in a towering passion, and poured forth +a torrent of abuse. The mother here interposed, and besought +him not to be angry with the young folks, but to +deal more gently and considerately with them. She even +hinted that he might have done injustice to the young man. +He might turn out a smarter man than he had credit for. +He might—who knew?—make a fine chief yet, possess<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +plenty of horses, and prove a highly eligible match for their +daughter. The old fellow had been (for him) quite moderate, +but this was too much. His rage completely mastered +him. He rose up, seized the pappoose’s cradle, and hurled +it violently out of doors, and the other chattels appertaining +to his daughter went after it in rapid succession. He +then ordered her to follow her goods <i>instanter</i>, with which +benediction she departed, responding with a smile of satisfaction, +doubtless anticipating the promised luxuries of her +new home, the vision of which, through the present tempest, +fortified her mind against its worst perils. Leaving the +lodge, she gathered up her scattered effects, and, accompanied +by her mother, the bridal party disappeared.</p> + +<p>The chief sat on his horse-skin couch, his legs crossed +partly under him, looking sour enough. Presently the +bride and her mother returned, and now began the second +scene. The chief no sooner recognized them than a sound—something +between a grunt and a growl, but much nearer +the latter than the former, and in a decided <i>crescendo</i>—gave +warning of a fresh eruption. The rumbling grew +more emphatic, and suddenly his fury burst on the head of +his wife. Seizing her by the hair, he hurled her violently +to the ground, and beat her with his clenched fists till I +thought he would break every bone in her body, and reduce +her substance to a jelly. Perhaps I was a little hard-hearted, +but she had been one of my bitterest enemies, and I had a +feeling that if some of her ill-will to me could be beaten out +of her, I could be easily resigned to her fate. The drubbing +ended, she rose and muttered something he did not +like. He replied by a violent blow on the side of her head, +that sent her staggering to the further end of the hut. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +last argument was decisive, and she kept her huge mouth +closed for the night. There was a silent pause for some +minutes, and, without another word, we ranged ourselves +for repose. I thought the old heathen’s conscience troubled +him through the night; his sleep was broken, and he appeared +very restless. Early the next morning he went to +the lodge of the newly-married pair, and had a long chat +with them. They thought him rather severe upon them at +first; but, after a good deal of diplomacy, a better understanding +was brought about. The young people could +hardly get over a sense of the indignities they had received; +but in the course of the day they returned, bag and baggage, +to the old chief’s tent, and made it their permanent +abode.</p> + +<p>We now moved in a westerly direction, and on the way +succeeded in capturing a good deal of game. Their mode +of dealing with the carcass of the guanaco is enough to +dissipate whatever appetizing qualities the meat—in itself +very palatable—would otherwise possess. It was no +uncommon circumstance, while the squaws were removing +the hide, to see the dogs tugging at the other extremity, +the women, meantime, crying out “Eh! Ah!” in a dissuasive, +though not angry, tone. If the animals become +too audacious, the ire of their mistresses is kindled, and they +break out with “Cashuran cashahy!” a phrase equivalent +to that which, in English, directs its object to a region +unmentionable in ears polite.</p> + +<p>The Indians have, strictly speaking, no profane expressions. +I never could learn that they worshipped or had any +idea of a Supreme Being. The only observance which bore +any aspect of religion was associated with something we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +should little think of as an object of adoration—the +tobacco-pipe;—though, how far this is, in fact, an object +of idolatry in Christian lands, it might not become me to +speculate. The only occasions on which the Indians discovered +any appearance of devotion were those of smoking. +This may have been only a symptom of intoxication, but +the reader may judge for himself.</p> + +<p>A group of a dozen or more assemble,—sometimes in a +wigwam, sometimes in the open air. A vessel made of a +piece of hide bent into a saucer-shape while green and +afterwards hardened, or sometimes an ox-horn, filled with +water, is set on the ground. A stone pipe is filled with the +scrapings of a wood resembling yellow ebony, mixed with +finely-cut tobacco. The company then lay themselves in a +circle flat on their faces, their mantles drawn up to the tops +of their heads. The pipe is lighted. One takes it into his +mouth and inhales as much smoke as he can swallow; the +others take it in succession, till all have become satisfied. +By the time the second smoker is fully charged, the first +begins a series of groanings and gruntings, with a slight +trembling of the head, the smoke slowly oozing out at the +nostrils. The groaning soon becomes general, and waxes +louder, till it swells into a hideous howling, enough to +frighten man or beast. The noise gradually dies away. +They remain a short time in profound silence, and each imbibes +a draught of water. Then succeeds another interval +of silence, observed with the most profound and devotional +gravity. All at length arise, and slowly disperse. Now, +this may or may not have been a form of worship; but the +circumstances attending it, the numbers uniformly engaged +in it the formality with which it was invariably conducted,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +the solemnity of visage, the reverential grimace, the prostration, +the silence, the trembling,—these, and traits of +expression which are more easily discerned and remembered +than described, gave me a decided impression that the +whole had a superstitious meaning. The natural operation +of the tobacco, and of the substance mixed with it, might +explain part of the symptoms,—the writhing and groaning,—but +these appeared to be a good deal in excess, and there +were other features of the case which appeared to require +another solution.</p> + +<p>I never asked any explanation. The mystery which savage +tribes are so apt to throw around their religious rites, +and their resentment at any unhallowed curiosity, I was +not inclined to meddle with or provoke. If my conjectures +were just as to the nature of this ceremony, inquiry might +lead to unpleasant consequences. Ignorance appeared, on +the whole, safer than knowledge of good or evil, gained at +the risk of being caught trespassing on things forbidden. +If any one thinks my precaution excessive, he is at liberty +to take a different course whenever he finds himself in the +jurisdiction of Parosilver, or any other Patagonian chief.</p> + +<p>The inquiry may arise, especially in the mind of the religious +reader, whether I attempted to impart to my captors +any knowledge of God, his attributes and laws. The answer +is quite ready,—No, and for a variety of reasons. The +writer did not understand enough of either Spanish or +Indian to communicate intelligible ideas on any matters +beyond the range of the senses, and Patagonia is pretty +barren of sensible phenomena, which made my stock of +words more limited than it might have been under more +favorable circumstances. There was no finding “tongues<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +in trees,” or “books in the running brooks;” the land +possesses neither in numbers sufficient to be conversable. +“Sermons in stones,” even, must have been of very pebbly +dimensions, and of no great weight. Had this difficulty +been removed, I confess I had no great desire to surmount +it. I was the object of suspicion and hostility. My +life was in constant danger. To diminish, as far as possible, +the causes of dislike, to mitigate their ferocious hate, +to elude occasions of mischief, to delay what I feared could +not be very long prevented, was my continual study. If +the reader is not satisfied with this account of my conduct, +I am sorry for it, but cannot afford any words of contrition. +It is vastly easier, I may hint to the objector, to +prescribe another’s duties than to judge of one’s own, especially +where the two parties are in circumstances so +widely differing. The Patagonians need the gospel—and +the law—as much as any people I could name from personal +observation. There was no trace of instruction imparted +at a previous period, and the reception Christianity +would meet with among them is yet to be discovered.</p> + +<p>Their pipes are made of a hard red stone, the bowl dug +out with whatever iron or steel implement is at command +to the dimensions of an ordinary clay pipe, the stem about +an inch square, and three inches long, with a small perforation. +A copper or brass tube, about two inches long, +is fitted to the stem, and serves as a mouth-piece. This is +made by bending or hammering a metallic plate about a +small round stick, and soldering or cementing it with a +glutinous substance thickened with earth.</p> + +<p>The copper, brass and iron, seen among them, was probably +procured from unfortunate vessels wrecked on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +coast. I was informed by Captain Morton, of whom the +persevering reader will know more hereafter, that he had +touched at Sea Bear Bay for a harbor, and saw there great +quantities of iron pumps, ships’ hanging knees, and other +gear, from wrecks of vessels of all sizes. As he was bound +for the land of gold, he thought it scarcely worth his while +to collect the baser metals. Had he been homeward bound, +he might have obtained a valuable cargo.</p> + +<p>As ornaments, bits of brass and copper, of silver and +German silver, have a high value among the Indians, and +when the metals are plenty such adornment is very common. +The children’s shoes have small oval pieces sewed +on in front, and they appear on other parts of their dress. +When scarce, they are more seldom seen. Blacksmithing +in Patagonia is something of the rudest. Two hard flat +stones do duty, the one as anvil, and the other as hammer. +Of the effect of heat in making the metals malleable, and +of the art of tempering, the people have no knowledge. To +make a knife, they take a piece of iron hoop, or iron in any +practicable shape, and hammer away upon it at a provokingly +slow rate. Their blows are not heavy enough to +do much execution; but they keep up a constant tap, tap, +tap, hour by hour, till the iron is flattened to the required +shape and dimensions. It is then rubbed on a smooth +stone till it is worn down to an edge, and finally inserted +into a wooden handle. Sometimes melted lead is poured +into the handle, but lead appeared to be a scarce commodity. +All mechanic arts, if they deserve the name, are +in an equally rude and primitive stage. The simplicity of +these people’s ideas is indeed extraordinary. In invention +or constructiveness they are babes. A Yankee boy, six<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +years old, would be a prodigy among them,—a miracle of +genius.</p> + +<p>An opportunity was afforded, while in camp, to see some +specimens of their tailoring or mantua-making achievements;—either +term is appropriate, as the male and +female dress do not differ in form, and but slightly in the +mode of adjustment. The mantle or blanket is worn +around the shoulders; those of the women are fastened together +by the corners under the chin with a stick for a +pin; the men hold theirs around them with their hands, +except that when hunting they tie a string around the +waist.</p> + +<p>The skins of young guanacos are selected for mantles, on +account of the superior fineness and softness of the hair. +Nearly a dozen skins are used for a single mantle, as a +large part of each is esteemed unfit for use, and thrown +away. The skins, while green, are stretched to their +utmost tension on the ground to dry. When partially +dried, they are scraped on the inside with a stone sharpened +like a gun-flint, sprinkled the while with water, to facilitate +the operation. When the surface is made tolerably smooth, +and of a pretty uniform thickness, it is actively scoured +with a coarse-grained stone, till it has a bright polish. +The skin is again dried, then crumpled and twisted in the +hands till it becomes perfectly soft and pliable. The +thread, as has been stated, is made from the sinews of the +ostrich. These are extracted by the exertion of great +strength, and divided into strings about the size of ordinary +shoe-thread. They are then twisted, the ends are +scraped to a point, and when dry become stiff; they are +now ready for use.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> + +<p>Two pieces of skin are cut to fit each other. The +tailoress (for all the work, from the curing of the skins to +the last results, is done by the squaws) holds the edges +together with the left hand, and drills them for sewing +with a sharpened nail, held between the first two fingers of +the right hand; the pointed thread, held between the +finger and thumb, is inserted and drawn through, and so +the work goes on. The stitches are tolerably fine, and a +very neat seam is made. Other pieces are added, and +when the whole is finished the seams are rubbed smooth +with a bone. The fur being worn inside, there remains the +work of outside decoration. With a due quantity of clay, +blood, charcoal and grease, amalgamated for the purpose, +the artist arms herself with a stick for a brush, and +executes divers figures in black, on a red ground; which, +if intended to shadow forth men, require a vigorous imagination +to detect the purpose. They might pass for unhappy +ghosts (if a little more ethereal in composition), or +for deformed trees. They bear a rude resemblance to a +chair in profile, or a figure 4; and are thickly disposed over +the whole surface, in the attitude sometimes vulgarly +termed “spoon-fashion.” The garment is now complete; +the edges are carefully trimmed with a knife, and the +fabric is thrown over the shoulders, with the infallible +certainty of fitting as closely as the native tastes require. +There is no trial of patience in smoothing obstinate wrinkles. +A “genteel fit” is the easiest thing in the world; wherein +Patagonian tailors have decidedly the advantage of their +fellow-craftsmen in civilized lands.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER V.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Inclement weather—State of my wardrobe—Attempts to deprive me of +my clothes—Powwow and horse-killing—Hair-combing extraordinary—Remedy +for rheumatism—Sickness—Turn barber—A cold bath—Fasting—Discovery +of my watch, and its effect—I am made +showman—Lion-hunt—Successful chase.</p> + +<p>At our next halt we encamped in a deep, swampy +valley. The weather was cold and stormy; rain, snow, +sleet and hail, fell alternately, but did not accumulate on +the earth to any considerable depth. Fitful gusts of wind +came sweeping through the camp, making the wigwams +shake fearfully. Our old lodge gallantly rode out the +gale; but, either owing to its straining and working in the +storm, or to some defects in the original structure, leaked +shockingly all night. I was repeatedly awakened by a +stream of cold water running under me. Giving the skin +roof a few knocks to lighten it of its watery burden, and +shaking the wet skin which constituted my couch, I would +throw myself down, and resign myself to repose; but before +quiet was fairly restored, another inundation would drive +me to my feet. The night wore away with me, wet, cold +and sleepless. After daybreak I rose, and continued for +two hours in vigorous exercise to restore warmth to my +chilled frame, before the Indians were astir. Fires were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +then kindled, and matters began to assume a more cheerful +appearance.</p> + +<p>The weather, quite cool on my first landing, had grown +gradually colder, and was becoming inclement. I was +scantily prepared to endure the severity of winter. My +under-garments, as before related, were desperately expended +in trying to signal passing vessels. Cravat and +pocket-handkerchief were appropriated to the adornment +of the women in our household, to the no small envy of less +favored ones. My sole article of linen was in shreds, and +of a color that would afford matter for speculation to a +jury of washerwomen. Stockings and shoes were sadly +dilapidated; coat and trousers were glazed with dirt and +grease till they shone like a glass bottle. The contents of +my pockets were all confiscated,—purse, keys, knife, &c.,—and +a pair of pistols, of the use of which my captors +knew nothing, were taken to pieces, and the brass mountings +suspended about the necks of the chief’s wives. In +short, my outer man was nigh unto perishing, and I had no +visible resources to arrest or repair the process of time, +while I was not sufficiently inured to the climate to adopt +the native dress without serious risk to health. But none +of these things were allowed to trouble me. I took no +thought for the morrow, but, according to the scriptural +injunction, suffered the morrow to take care for the things +of itself, esteeming sufficient unto each day the evil +thereof.</p> + +<p>At an early period of my captivity, the chief and some +other Indians had cast a longing eye on my clothes, and +tried to seduce me into parting with them. They offered +no compulsion in the matter, but resorted to all manner of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +tricks. It seemed that they thought a white man could +afford to go without dressing. I explained to them that, +having always worn clothes,—having in infancy, even, +unlike Patagonian piccaninnies, been externally protected +against the fresh air,—it was quite impossible for me to +change my habits without the hazard of my life; and, if +I should die in consequence of yielding to their wishes, +they were reminded they would lose the valuable ransom +they expected for me. This reasoning proved convincing; +greatly as they longed for my wardrobe, they more desired +rum and tobacco, and I was permitted the undisturbed +enjoyment of the scanty covering left me.</p> + +<p>The storm continued for two days and nights; on the +third day it cleared up. About mid-day, observing a +crowd of Indians together with a huge jargon of tongues, +I learned, on inquiry, that a horse was to be killed; a +matter which, it appeared, was always the occasion of a +solemn powwow. On reaching the spot, a poor old beast, +lean and lank, with a lariat about his neck, stood surrounded +by some fifty Indians. The squaws were singing, +in stentorian tones, “Ye! Ye! Yup! Yup! Lar, lapuly, +yapuly!” with a repetition that became unendurable, and +drove me to a respectful distance. The horse’s fore-legs +were fast bound together, a violent push forward threw +him heavily to the ground, and he was speedily despatched +with a knife; anticipating, by a few days, the ordinary +course of nature. Soon after my return to the wigwam, a +huge portion of the carcass was sent to our quarters and +hung up, to furnish our next meals! After being duly +dressed by the women, with the aid of the dogs, and +scorched and smoked according to usage, it was served<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +up,—my only alternative to starvation. Famine has no +scruples of delicacy; if the reader is disgusted, he is in a +state of sympathy with the writer.</p> + +<p>Early the next day we (literally) pulled up stakes, and +were on the move; and, after journeying all day, encamped +in a situation very like the one we left in the morning. +The Indians spent their time, as usual, in gambling and in +combing each other’s hair, with a brush made of stiff dry +roots, tied up together. The operator received as a fee +the <i>game</i> captured in the process. The reader will excuse +a more explicit statement of what, though less abominable +than cannibalism, is hardly less repulsive.</p> + +<p>One evening our family circle were seated round a fire, +which sent up volumes of smoke sufficiently dense to suit +a savage of the most exacting taste, and which drove me, +as usual, to the back part of the hut, where I lay flat on +my face. One of the chief’s wives was inveighing against +me, as was her wont, and a second occasionally joined in +the strain, by way of chorus. A third was cracking the +bones of a guanaco, that her son Cohanaco might eat the +marrow. The fourth and last of the women was attending +to a piece of meat for our supper, fixed on a forked stick, +in the smoke. Two sons were engaged, as usual, in doing +nothing, except occasionally begging a little of the marrow, +and scraping their dirty legs with a sheath-knife, by way +of diversion; sundry by-plays, and little pieces of mischief, +served to fill up the spare minutes. The old chief, +who had been silently regarding the scene, now commenced +talking, in a low, mumbling, guttural tone, to one of his +wives. She was busily eying the toasting-fork, and studying +the process of cooking; but, at her husband’s instance,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +left them, and drew from their repository of tools a sharpened +nail fixed in a wooden handle, like an awl. The +chief stretched himself on the ground, face downwards; a +surgical operation was plainly impending. What could +the matter be? Had the chief, in the excess of his plumpness, +burst open, like ripe fruit, requiring to be sewed up? +I drew my head from beneath the protection I had provided +against the smoke, and rose on my knees, to get a +better view; the huge, black, greasy monster lay extended +at his full length, his wife pinched up the skin on his +back, pierced it with her awl, and continued the process +till a number of perforations were made, from which the +blood oozed slowly. I asked the meaning of this operation, +and was told by the chief that he had pains in his back, +for which this was the best remedy. Blood-letting, it +seemed, is no monopoly of the faculty. I told him that in +my country we applied, in such cases, a liquid called +opodeldoc, an infallible remedy, and promised to procure +him some when we got to Holland. This was henceforth +added to my list of inducements.</p> + +<p>The old fellow righted himself, and leaned against one +of the pillars of his palace; one of his partners pulled up +the toasting-fork, and jerked the half-roasted and more +than sufficiently smoked meat upon the ground, seized the +knife which the boys had been playing with, and cut the +mess into liberal pieces, which were thrown broadcast on +either side. The chief’s appetite did not appear to be +affected either by his indisposition or by the extraordinary +remedy applied; his portion of the <i>cárne</i> disappeared +behind his great white teeth with a haste that seemed to +involve no waste.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p>Rheumatic affections, they told me, are very common +among them; the chief showed me the arm of one of his +wives, which was scarred from the wrist to the shoulder +by the awl; and the operation was afterwards performed on +other members of the family.</p> + +<p>Again we took up the line of march, travelling, as near +as I could judge, west-north-west, and killing a quantity +of game, both guanaco and ostrich. But the hardship of +my life, aggravated by a constant flesh diet, and that eaten +half raw, and at irregular seasons,—often going two days +without food,—had, by this time, brought on a dysentery. +This was no more than I had expected; but I knew of no +remedy, and had to endure it as I could. We encamped, +on the second day, near the banks of the river Gallegos; a +fine spring of water issued from the river-bank into a low +marshy ground, skirting the margin of the stream. By +this time my illness had increased, till I felt unfit to +travel further, and began to think that death could not +be distant. No change of diet was practicable, and there +was nothing to counteract its effect on my system. The +pain and weariness of travelling did their part to aggravate +the disorder; and mental discouragement—the sickness +of hope deferred—completed my prostration. No +human being in that desolate land cared for my sufferings, +more than they would for those of a dog. Worn out with +the constant irritations of a state of existence odious to +every sensibility, tired and disheartened, but for one +thought I could have gladly laid myself down to die, +to get at once and forever beyond the reach of my savage +tormentors. The thought of home, of wife and child, of +friends and country, and all the unutterable emotions that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +respond to these precious names, at once tortured and +strengthened me. These, and the thought that perhaps, +after patient endurance, Divine Providence would restore +me to the objects of my famished affections, made life still +dear. These strengthened me to suffer and to strive.</p> + +<p>As I crawled out of the lodge, to look upon the sun, and +breathe the pure air, and be refreshed by breezes untainted +with the breath of cruel men, it came into my mind that +some palatable or even tolerable species of plant or +root would be wholesome for me. On looking about, there +presented itself a specimen of large dock, such as is common +in the United States; a weed of humble pretensions, +but why not worthy of a trial? With what strength +remained at command, I began a process of “extracting +roots,” with good success. Taking a quantity into the +hut, and roasting them in hot ashes, they were found to +be not distasteful; I filled my pockets with them, and +abandoned flesh-diet for a little time, to the sensible, +though gradual, relief of my sufferings. Fortunately we +had a season of bad weather, which prevented any advance +movement for four or five days, and gave me time partially +to recover strength. I could not sooner have kept +my seat on a horse; and, if the alternative had been +presented, the Indians, as I very well knew, would sooner +have knocked me on the head than have allowed me to +hinder their march for a day. A powwow was held over +another horse, unserviceable alive, and therefore marked +for diet; but this time I did not compete for any part of +his carcass, my pocket-stores being quite sufficient, and +more attractive. But in the fate of the poor beast I read<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +a warning to myself, to make haste and get well enough to +move at the first signal.</p> + +<p>Away again,—this time facing about, and passing down +the river. I needed rest; but, at whatever expense of +suffering, needs must when a certain old gentleman drives. +At the next stopping-place my services were called into +requisition in a new department. One forenoon, as I +sauntered towards our wigwam, after a stroll among the +smutty huts, to kill time and divert painful thoughts, I +was hailed from within by the chief, “Arke, Boney!” +On entering, he appeared to be conversing, in low, gurgling +sounds, with his lately-married daughter, who was running +her hands through the shaggy hair of her young hope, as +she talked. Something was plainly wrong in the youngster’s +top-knot, and some unpleasant task in relation thereto +was as plainly about to be imposed upon me. The chief +resolved my doubts, by ordering me to cut off a portion +of the shag; I objected a want of the proper implements, +but the mother silenced me by producing an old pair of +scissors, in no condition to cut anything. Calling for a +file, the rusty edges were brought into a tolerable state, +and I approached the task. Such a sight! If the hair +now would have obeyed a mesmeric pass, without the need +of manual contact,—if the job could be performed with +closed eyes, and insensible nostrils, and absent mind! +Faugh! I hurried through the penance, hiding disgust, +and assuming the appearance of good will, and made good +my escape into the fresh air. And so I must turn barber, +and, in all likelihood, have the dirty heads of half the +tribe put under my nose! What would come next?</p> + +<p>Our next move took us across the river Gallegos, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +shoal water, barely up to the horses’ knees. The current +was rapid, and masses of floating ice were swept along with +it. When half way across, my horse took fright, reared, +and, in attempting a sudden turn, precipitated me into the +water, and fell heavily upon me. The ducking and the +bruise together were severe, and, among other disasters, the +crystal of my watch was broken by the shock. This I +had kept carefully secreted, as a last resort, to amuse the +savages when other expedients should fail,—when memory +and invention could yield no more tales, when promises +should have become threadbare with repetition, and when +pretensions of greatness at home should have lost their +power by the every-day disclosure of present weakness and +humiliation.</p> + +<p>We—that is to say, myself and the old horse—kicked +and floundered a while in the cold water, till at last the +creature succeeded in rising, and I followed his example. +We waded ashore, dripping, amidst the uproarious laughter +of the whole troop. Once more mounted on my Rosinante, +we resumed our line of march. The chill from my cold +bath so benumbed me that I had to dismount and lead the +horse, to recover, by brisk walking, some portion of animal +warmth. Our course was down the river towards the Atlantic. +Being unsuccessful in the chase, we pitched our +tents at night, supperless, and without prospect of breakfasting +the next morning. A small fire was lighted, which +I hugged as closely as possible, to thaw my stiffened +limbs; and then, cold, wet and hungry, fagged to extremity, +cast myself on the ground, to repose as I might. The next +morning was stormy. It cleared up in the afternoon, and +the Indians sallied out to find some food. My only refreshment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +before their return was a little grease, which one of +the squaws scooped out of an ostrich-skin with her dirty +thumb and finger. It was so black that its pedigree—whether +guanaco, ostrich or skunk, or a compound gathered +at random from beast and bird—was a problem defying +solution; but famine is not fastidious, and I swallowed +greedily what, a few months before, I should hardly have +thought fit to grease shoes with. The men came back with +a few ostriches and skunks. The chief received as his portion +one of the quadrupeds. The associations connected +with its name, as related to one sense, were not adapted to +prepossess the others in its favor; but I made shift to do +justice rather to the Indian than to my habitual tastes.</p> + +<p>During the three days we remained here, the long-concealed +watch was brought to light. The filth of the natives, +the condition in which their huts and their persons +were always suffered to remain, the swarms of vermin they +housed, had imposed upon me extraordinary care to prevent +the natural results upon my own person; but no amount of +precaution was sufficient to avert them. The reader will +excuse me from speaking more particularly on this head. +Enough to say that I found myself intolerably tormented. +The chief ordered an examination of the case, and sent for +an Indian to deal with it according to their art. While +divesting myself of my garments, one by one, for this purpose, +the old fellow caught sight of the hidden treasure. I +knew that it was useless to attempt any longer to retain it, +and handed it over. He was vastly pleased with it. I +wound it up, and put it to his ear. He was as delighted at +the unexpected sound as a child with its first rattle. I +explained its use in keeping the hours of the day, but he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +cared for nothing but the ticking. The breaking of the +crystal was explained, and he was informed that another +should be procured as soon as we reached “Holland,”—another +inducement, I hoped, to speed our passage there.</p> + +<p>The inspection disclosed a state of the cuticle which +would be thought dreadful in a civilized land. The chief, +however, looked as calm as beseemed a surgical examiner, +and in a good-natured guttural exchanged a few words with +his assistant, who placed himself by my side, and fixing his +eyes steadily upon me, begun swinging his hands and howling +like a wild beast. The comparison was not far out of +the way, for he gave a sudden spring, fastened his teeth on +my neck, and commenced sucking the blood, growling all +the while like a tiger! For a moment I thought my hour +had come. I weaned the rascal as soon as possible, not +knowing what his taste for blood might come to, if too freely +indulged. It seemed like a refinement upon cannibalism, +but was, in fact, as I soon ascertained, the regular treatment +made and provided by Patagonian science for the +relief of severe cutaneous affections.</p> + +<p>The chief, all this while, recurred with undiminished +pleasure to the ticking of his new toy. When his curiosity +had at length abated, he returned it to me. I wrapped it +carefully in a rag, and enveloped it afterwards in a young +colt’s skin provided for its reception, when, by direction +of its present august proprietor, it was suspended among +other valuables from one of the stakes of the hut, near the +spot where his highness customarily reposed. It was not, +however, allowed long to remain quiet. I was ordered to +take it down and hold it to the ears of all the visitors to the +lodge. Forty times a day it had to come down for this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +purpose, till I got so tired of my showman’s duty that I +wished the watch in the bottom of the sea. The Indians, +as they listened to its vibrations, would stand in every attitude +of silent amazement, their eyes dilated, their countenances +lighted up in every feature with delighted wonder, +and then break out in a roar of hoarse laughter, the tone of +which strangely contrasted with the infantile simplicity of +their demeanor. The business was dreadfully annoying, +and yet it was plain that a new and almost unbounded +power affecting my destiny was hidden in that little machine. +It had captivated the chief, and struck an awe over the +tribe like the rod of an enchanter. Whether it boded good +or evil, was another question.</p> + +<p>Our next move took us in a west-north-west direction, +and in our progress we not only secured abundant game +of the ordinary varieties, but encountered and killed a +young lion,—to use the popular term,—the first living +specimen I had seen in the country. I had seen their skins +in possession of the Indians, and heard stories of their +chase. This was a youthful creature, about the size of a +well-grown calf of six weeks. I was riding side by side +with the chief across a piece of low bushy land, when the +dogs gave token that they scented something uncommon. +We halted, and the chief cried out to the dogs, “Chew! +Chew!” They were off in a jiffey, rushing hither and +thither through the bushes, barking furiously, and soon +drove the beast from his covert. Other Indians, a little distance +off, ascertaining what was in the wind, made after the +game with a reinforcement of dogs. The chase began in +good earnest. Horses, riders and dogs, from all points of +the compass, were scampering to the scene of action, hallooing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +barking, howling, enough to frighten any unsophisticated +lion out of his senses. Some were running full tilt, +to cut off his retreat; while the hunters, bareheaded, leaning +forward in their saddles and urging their horses to their +utmost speed, whirled the bolas about their heads and let +fly with a vengeance, with no other effect than to arrest the +furious animal, and cause him to turn in desperation on +the dogs, and drive them back yelping with pain. Others +of the pack, watching their opportunity, would spring upon +his back and fasten their teeth in his flesh. He brushed +them off with a single stroke of his paw, as if they had been +flies, and was again in motion, halting occasionally to give +fight to his nearest assailant. Now and then the bolas is +hurled at him, but his lithe limbs, though sometimes entangled, +are not fettered by it, and his prowess is hardly +diminished. The Indians press around him; the battle +waxes fiercer; his whole strength is taxed. “Chew! Chew!” +roar the savages; the flagging dogs return fresh to the +onslaught, and, after a hard and unequal contest, the animal +is fairly overborne by numbers, and despatched by the +blows of the Indians. I had kept in the vicinity, but yet +at a respectful distance, and now rode up to view the slain, +amidst the howlings of the wounded dogs and the boisterous +laughter of the hunters. It was a beautiful animal, with +soft, sleek, silvery fur, tipped with black; the head having +a general resemblance to that of a cat, the eye large and +full, and sparkling with ferocity.</p> + +<p>After the Indians had eyed their game sufficiently, and +talked and laughed and grunted their satisfaction, and congratulated +themselves generally on their victory, and severally +on the part each had taken, the body was driven off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +on the back of a horse, and the hunters again spread themselves +over the country. Some ostriches were soon started +up. The chief drew out his bolas, put spurs to his horse, +and darted away. His mantle fell from his shoulders: his +long, straight black hair, so coarse that each particular hair +stood independently on end, streamed in the wind; his hideously +painted face and body loomed up with grotesque +stateliness, and the deadly missile whirled frantically over +his head. The whizzing weapon is suddenly hurled at his +victim, the chief still sitting erect in his saddle to watch its +effect. His horse suddenly stops,—he dismounts nimbly, +seizes the entangled bird by the throat, and swings it violently +around till its neck is broken. As I rode up he +deposited the great bird on my horse, remounted, and rushed +in pursuit of another. That was killed and also placed in +my keeping, making me a kind of store-ship. Others pursue +the guanaco with equal success, till they are satisfied +with their booty. We ride up to a convenient thicket, a +fire is lighted, a portion of the prey is cooked and eaten, +the remnants of the feast and the residue of the game are +duly packed up, and the whole troop is under march for the +camp.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VI.</p> + +<p class="chap2">The chief’s oratory—A case of sickness novelly treated—The captive +commissioned as physician to the chief—Dr. Bourne’s first and last +patient—Murder—Cannibalism—Another assassination, showing the +perils of medical practice among savages—Sports of the +children—Patagonian farriery—Slender success in the chase—A second struggle +for life.</p> + +<p>The chief occasionally made a speech to his subjects from +the door of his lodge, wherein he invariably inculcated the +duty of hunting industriously to procure meat, and a due +supply of grease, for their families. He never had an +auditor in sight, for his faithful lieges considered the +speech from the throne a decided bore, and, if one happened +to be passing, he was sure to dodge into the nearest hut +till the infliction was over; but the leathern lungs of the +orator could not fail to make him audible in many of the +wigwams. In length his performances more resembled the +official addresses of our republican rulers than those of his +royal cousins of Europe, seldom falling short of a full +hour. In style, they came nearer the proclamations of a +crier. He would proceed in a monotonous rumble to the +end of a sentence, and then defy contradiction by repeating +several times, “Comole! comole! comole!” after which he +paused, as for a reply. No one having the audacity to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +take up his challenge, he would go on croaking the same +things with tedious iteration. After listening very patiently +to one of his harangues, I inwardly applauded the +taste of his subjects in getting as far as possible out of the +reach of his voice.</p> + +<p>One forenoon, as I was beginning to feel impatient to +move,—for every movement seemed to fan the flickering +hope that we would soon reach a place affording some +avenue of escape, and this restlessness always made camp-life +doubly dismal,—the chief informed me that we should +decamp that day. Preparations had commenced, when one +of his daughters came in with a child crying at a tempestuous +rate. The version which she gave of his complaints +arrested the marching orders. A messenger was +forthwith despatched for one skilled in the healing art. +The physician soon arrived, armed with two small packages +rolled up in pieces of skin, about a foot long and three or +four inches in diameter, which I took to be his medicine-chest. +He walked gravely in, laid down the packages, and +squatted beside the mother, who held the little patient in +her arms. Whatever his ailment might have been, his +lungs could not have been impaired, for he was roaring like +a young buffalo. Not a word was spoken for some time, +the doctor all the while looking him very steadily in the +eye. Then came a sudden calm, importing that the little +fellow experienced some relief, or, more probably, that he +was exhausted. The doctor ordered an application,—not +of hot water, according to the prescription of Sangrado, +but of a mortar made of clay. The clay was brought, the +anxious mother worked it over with her two hands, spitting +upon it to give it the requisite moisture, and having reduced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +it to the consistency of thick paint, bedaubed the +little fellow from head to foot, giving him a decidedly +original appearance. He evidently took umbrage at this +unction, and discoursed in his shrillest tones till he was +fairly out of breath. The medicine-chests were opened, +but, instead of medicinal herbs, disclosed only a bunch of +ostrich’s sinews and a rattle eight or ten inches long. The +physician commenced fingering the strings, and muttering +almost inaudibly. This lasted four or five minutes, at the +expiration of which he seized his rattle, and clattered away +furiously for a minute or two, and resumed his place by his +patient, eying him intently as before. He then turned +with an air of importance to the chief, who had been +crouching cross-legged on his couch, leaning forward, with +his arms tightly folded on his breast, and watching anxiously +the progress of the treatment. The man of skill +broke silence: “I think he is better; don’t you?” The +chief nodded, and grunted assent. The same appeal was +made to the mother, and received a like response. Another +plastering was ordered, another burst of melody followed +the application, the mysterious strings were again fingered, +duly followed by the rattle. The parent and grandparent +once more assented to the leech that the child was better. +The chief took out a piece of tobacco, and cut off enough +for about two pipefuls, which was tendered and gratefully +accepted as a professional fee. The strings were tied up +and replaced in their proper receptacle, and the rattle was +shaken with hearty good will, whether by way of finale to +the cure, or as a note of gratitude for the fee, or of triumph +for success, could not easily be guessed. But the practitioner +had scarcely evacuated the lodge, before his patient<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +broke out more vociferously than ever; which I thought +would somewhat shake the faith of his guardians in the +treatment he had received. But no; their confidence in +their medical adviser was not to be blown away by a +breath, or even a tempest. They evidently regarded him +as nearly infallible. His remedies were obviously aimed +more at the imaginations of his spectators than at the body +of his patient, but it was no concern of mine. Patients +among us have to endure more disagreeable applications +than wet clay. The noisy brat became quiet, to our great +relief. He shortly appeared to be quite well, and continued +to thrive for some time, as I had opportunity to +witness.</p> + +<p>The tribe went ahead with alacrity, to make up for the +loss of time this sickness occasioned. We moved off another +day’s journey towards nowhere in particular, and +settled there at night. Then ensued another season of camp +life, feasting and fasting, gambling and quarrelling, and +venting superfluous wrath in an abundance of “Cashuran +cashaly’s.” The chief was slightly indisposed, and I +amused him with a description of the manner in which our +physicians count the pulse of their patients. He listened +with considerable interest, and sat thoughtfully ruminating +on the matter. He came to an unexpected and alarming +conclusion; putting this and my story of the <i>opodeldoc</i> together, +he made up his mind that I was a physician myself! +I protested against this inference, fearing that no good +would come of the responsibilities he was inclined to impose +on me. But the disclaimer was useless,—he stuck to +the opinion; and in no long time it was understood through +all the tribe that I was a distinguished doctor.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p> + +<p>Now, it came to pass, at this critical turn of affairs, that +a certain widow, of pretty ripe years for a Patagonian, was +taken suddenly ill. Her husband had been murdered many +years before by one of the tribe. She was possessed of +several horses, and, in virtue of this wealth, held an aristocratic +position in society. A messenger brought the tidings +to the chief, who ordered me forthwith to set the watch, +and go with him to her residence. I again assured him I +knew nothing of sickness or medicine. He told me he knew +better, and bade me come along without delay. There was +no resisting his will, and I armed myself accordingly with +the “ticking machine,” and followed my master on my first +professional visit. On approaching the widow’s lodge, our +ears were greeted with a hideous clamor, which momentarily +increased as we neared the spot. A great crowd of Indians, +of both sexes, surrounded the wigwam, severally and +collectively making the most villanous noise ever heard. +The crowd was dense, both within and without, but gave +way for the chief and the great foreign physician to enter. +The first order I gave was to stop their singing, whereat +there was a silence so blank that the fall of a pin would +have been audible,—that is, if there had been a floor for it +to fall upon. With what dignity I could command, I +walked up to my patient. There she lay, crouched on a +bit of horse’s skin, so withered, shrivelled and contracted, +that it seemed as if a bushel-basket might have covered +her, bed and all. I knelt by her side, drew forth the +watch, grasped her by the wrist, and felt for her pulse. +But, to my surprise, I could not feel it. I fussed and +fumbled a long time, and finally arrived at the mortifying +conclusion that I was so ignorant as not to know the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +position of the artery! The patient was frightened at so +unprecedented a proceeding; but I succeeded in quieting +her fears, though not, alas! in counting her pulse. However, +it occurred to me that it was all one whether I did +or not; so, keeping up an imperturbable gravity becoming +my office, I continued for some time to look wisely at the +watch, holding her wrist in profound silence. When I +judged that a due impression had been produced on the +awe-stricken spectators, I ventured to prescribe, not a clay +plaster, for the patient was dirty enough, in all conscience; +nor yet any compound of drugs, for I had none to administer; +and as to roots and herbs, I durst not inflict +upon her stomach substances of unknown properties; but, +after a little thought, I ordered some water heated blood-warm, +and the patient to be washed, and thoroughly +scrubbed, from head to foot. This, I thought, met the most +obvious indications of her case, as I doubt not a whole +college of physicians, upon a superficial view, would have +unanimously agreed. There could not have been a doubt +as to the novelty of the prescription; the respectable +relict, it is safe to say, had never been washed so thoroughly +from infancy to that hour. Minute directions +were given for the bath, that the scrubbing should be particularly +smart and thorough. She was furthermore put +upon a strict diet, excluding <i>grease</i> and all such luxuries, +and we slowly retired from the sick room.</p> + +<p>My solemnity was not affected,—far from it. Promotion +from barber and showman to the dignity of physician to +the chief, was too dangerous to be lightly considered. In +fact, anxiety drove sleep from my eyes, and I fervently +prayed for the recovery of the widow; fearing, from what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +I knew of the superstitions of the savages, that in case of +her death I should be held responsible. In this particular +case, as very soon appeared, I misjudged; but of the +general principle I had startling confirmation.</p> + +<p>The widow was better,—my prescription worked to a +charm,—but her days were shortened. Late one night, +after we had all retired to rest, a ferocious-looking rascal +came into the chief’s lodge; he muttered a few words to +the chief, who arose, and went with him to the front of the +wigwam. They conversed in a low tone several minutes, +and separated, apparently with mutual satisfaction. I +sounded the chief cautiously in reference to the matter in +hand. Calmly, and without reserve, as if it were a very +ordinary transaction, he said that the savages wished to +kill the widow, in order to possess themselves of her horses, +which they wanted to eat. I asked no further questions, +being fully satisfied that he connived at the dark deed, +which was consummated without delay. Before this tragic +result, I had taken pains to disabuse the mind of the chief +as to my supposed medical skill, and was able to relieve +myself of the dangerous and burdensome honor.</p> + +<p>Strange flesh was eaten by the Indians about this time; +I was told it was <i>lion-meat</i>, but was not invited to partake +of it. The same thing was observed several times; at +times, too, when I was positive they had killed no wild +animals without my knowledge, or which were not disposed +of openly. The nature of my suspicions may be easily +conjectured; yet I made no inquiries, in even the most +casual manner, as to their disposition of their dead. It +was painful to think of the atrocities, that were but too +probably shrouded under the mystery they cast over these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +transactions. On one occasion, however, a young Indian, +who could speak a few words of Spanish and English, told +me that they had killed and eaten three men. Whether +he meant to have me understand this as a singular case, or +as a common action of the tribe, I do not know; I made +no inquiries of him. In fact, the statement was volunteered +by him; and so painful was the subject, that I left +him abruptly, in the middle of a sentence.</p> + +<p>We again moved in a north-westerly direction, taking +a goodly quantity of game on the route, and settled in a +wretched, marshy spot. The wind was high, and made the +tents quiver like a ship in a gale; a storm set in, beating +through the roofs, drenching and chilling me through all +the night. On the evening of the second day of our encampment +here, an incident occurred which fearfully confirmed +the wisdom of my decision to renounce all title to +medical skill. As I was seated by the dying embers of a +little fire, surrounded by our motley household, and tugging +manfully at a bit of half-raw meat, which constituted +my evening meal, while a large piece was in process of +cooking over the fire, we were suddenly startled by a cry +of distress, followed by the distinct alarm of <i>murder</i>. The +chief drew back to the rear of his lodge, took down his +cutlass, and ordered me back from the fire, which was at +once extinguished by two of his squaws, while the other +two ran to the door, and set up a loud, lamentable wailing. +All the women throughout the camp were, in like manner, +giving their voices to the air, and “making night hideous;” +and not a male Indian ventured to show his head for an +hour or more. It was to me an hour of fearful suspense, +the agony of which I cannot describe. At last a man came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +and told the chief that a doctor had been murdered. He +had visited a woman professionally, and treated her case +with charms and spells, but his prescriptions effected no +satisfactory result; and her husband went in a rage to his +lodge, and stabbed him with repeated blows, to make the +work of death more sure. It was a singular circumstance, +that men capable of deliberate murder, and who had so +recently, with the tacit or open sanction of the chief, +strangled a woman for her horses, should have shown so +much alarm at the cry of murder on this occasion. The +victim was an enormously fat man, weighing, I should +judge, nearly four hundred pounds. A horrible sight presented +itself the next morning, on going out of our hut; +the snow around the doctor’s lodge was saturated with his +blood. I drew back from the sickening spectacle, unable +to look upon it with composure. Beyond their exhibition +of stupid terror in the night, no notice was taken of the +act; and about noon the camp broke up. We travelled +till night, meeting with no success in the chase, and encamped +on an extensive plain, near a good spring of +water.</p> + +<p>It was an occasional diversion to watch the children at +their sports, of which a favorite one was throwing ostriches’ +feet, with the sinews of the legs attached. The +toes are cut off, and a pair of the feet are tied together, +with a piece of sinew about a yard long. The children +begin to practise the sport as soon as they are able to +walk, and will continue the amusement all day; one boy +throwing them into the air, and others throwing and hitting +them as they fly, therein serving an apprenticeship +to the grand manly accomplishment of hurling the bolas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +Young Cohanaco, the chief’s youngest son, appeared to +excel all others; he was looked upon as a remarkably +smart and very active lad; and, though he was six or +eight years old, was not yet weaned! All the tribe fondled +and caressed him; he would practise with the boys, often +without any covering to his back, till excited and almost +exhausted; then he would run into the lodge, take refreshment +at his mother’s breast, and speedily return to +his sport.</p> + +<p>All this time <i>Holland</i> was not forgotten, but the chief +and his lieges were continually reminded of the urgent +reasons for taking me there without delay; the presents +which could only be obtained there, the fearful consequences +of suffering me to come to harm, the great ships +with the big guns, &c. &c., that would assuredly avenge +me upon the whole tribe,—with what effect, beyond allaying +present irritations and discontents that threatened me, +it was impossible to determine.</p> + +<p>A novel sample of farriery offered itself to my observation +one day, while hunting with the chief; my old +horse, on a sudden, began to hobble, and very nearly gave +out. I watched him some time, and jolted on, suffering +somewhat from his uneven movements, but could not discern +the occasion of the difficulty. On dismounting and +examining his feet, nothing serious was perceptible, except +that the hoofs were worse for wear, and broomed up a +little. I remounted, and gave the poor creature a smart +drubbing, to overtake his owner, if possible, and consult +him on the case, which was one wherein I was content to +defer to his wiser judgment. Sufficient steam was raised +to bring us abreast of the chief, who, on hearing what was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +the matter, put spurs to his horse, and told me to come on—“Bueno +caballo, se campo, campo.” I tried to comply, +but it was hard starting the beast, though I used up considerable +wood to that end. The chief having got far in +advance, and finding me desperately in arrears, hove to, +and waited for me. I toiled on, and succeeded in working +a passage to his position. He dismounted, inspected the +horse’s feet, and, directing me to wait his return, rode off. +He soon reäppeared with a piece of guanaco-skin, which he +tied securely about the hoof of the lame foot. I expressed +some surprise at this method of shoeing horses; but he said, +“Buenos zapatos,”—good shoes,—and the event confirmed +his words. The lameness nearly disappeared, and we jogged +on together without any further trouble.</p> + +<p>While at this camping-ground, the chief one morning +arose in a towering passion at some words let fall by one +of his wives, and exhibited another sample of the rigor of +matrimonial discipline, very similar to that which graced +the nuptials of his daughter. He gave her a tremendous +beating, which seemed enough to kill her outright; but she +took it very calmly, as a sort of necessary evil incident to +the married state.</p> + +<p>Once more on the move, the squaws taking charge of the +furniture and baggage, including the pappooses, and the +men riding in advance as usual, to chase supplies for the +larder. Game was scarce; we got a couple of ostriches and +a skunk,—or a couple of skunks and an ostrich, I forget +which, and it makes less difference to the reader than at the +time it did to me. We cooked and lunched on the ground, +and turned our faces homeward with the scanty remainder. +The women were busy erecting the wigwams. The ground<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +was frozen, and a large iron bolt, doubtless from some +wreck, served as a crowbar to dig holes for the stakes. The +encampment was on a hill-side, near a low swamp, which +furnished abundance of water, such as it was.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely settled down, and I was dreading the +stagnant monotony of camp life, when dulness was dispelled +in a most unwelcome manner. Knots of Indians +could be seen in murmuring conversation, whose glances +betrayed the bent of their passions. They were again getting +impatient of my life, and caresses and flattery were of +no avail to stem the rising tide. On the evening of the +third day, I was summoned out of the lodge by the chief, and +followed him in silence, with a trembling presentiment of +evil. He led me to a spot where twenty or thirty leading +spirits in the tribe sat ranged in a circle,—the fatal ring +was once more set to ensnare me! Once I had escaped. +Was it possible to effect a second escape? Everything +said no. The chances seemed a hundred to one against it. +What had I left unsaid, to tempt their cupidity, to excite +alarm, to make them value my safety or dread the effects +of harming me? I could think of nothing, and the dismal +prospect benumbed every faculty of my soul. But, as I +entered the ominous circle, an access of fresh strength, the +courage of desperation, enabled me to bear up with energy +against perplexity and fear; to resolve that I would meet +them with a steadfast eye and an inflexible mind,—a force +which, though springing out of weakness, should prove +stronger than their utmost malice.</p> + +<p>Having seated myself near the chief, the consultation +began and proceeded much as before, but with increased +vehemence. Their demonstrations were alarming, but, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +my joy, the chief took the same view as in the former council. +Would he be able to restrain their savage tempers? +His power was great, but there was a limit to its effect, and +I feared. In my turn I sought to enforce his views, by +arraying all the motives invention could produce, and was +able to perceive that they had some weight. Again the +matter was canvassed around the ring. There was a hesitation, +as if they felt suspicious and unsatisfied. Then they +began to cross-examine me; my promises were not explicit +enough. What did I mean to give them? The answer +did not content them; they wanted more. More or less +made no difference to me, and I gave them assurance of all +the good things they craved, when we should arrive at <i>Holland</i>. +Another talk followed, and brought them to a pretty +unanimous conclusion, that they would get the presents first, +and <i>decide my fate afterwards</i>;—a “squeeze-your-orange-and-throw-it-away” +policy, in which these rascals seemed +to be remarkable adepts.</p> + +<p>The natives had no idea that I could understand their +talk, and I was not at all eager to display my acquisitions. +In fact, though unable to speak their jargon, my ear had +become pretty well trained to interpret it, while my scraps +of half Spanish enabled me, without suspicion, to hear, +mark and digest, much of their conversation. This was, in +part, acquired in teaching some of them, the youth especially, +to speak English and to count,—a pursuit in which +I engaged partly for their benefit, and partly for my own. +Besides aiding me in learning their language, it tended, so +far as it diverted their attention, to keep mischief out of +their heads, after the manner in which constant employment +maintains order in a ship’s crew. It added to my knowledge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +of their character and ways of thinking, so that, in +dangerous emergencies, I was able to detect the first symptoms +of evil. More than once it enabled me to elude or to +nip in the bud dangerous conspiracies, which, if they had +gone further, might have proved fatal to me. Circumspection +made self-possession more easy. I will confess—though +the narrative may have made confession needless—that +I am naturally timid, and inclined to the better part of +valor. Yet somehow—God helping me—I early learned +to hide my constitutional timidity under a show of fearlessness, +even in circumstances of great peril. More than once, +when a savage drew his knife at me, have I looked him in +the eye and disarmed him by a laugh; perhaps laying hold +of the instrument of death, trying its edge and praising its +qualities, till its owner was shamed into quiet. One piece +of English that tickled the chief was the title of “Old Boy,” +with which (from a conviction of its appropriateness) I +early honored him, and which he appeared to relish as much +as if I had called him “His Majesty.”</p> + +<p>The council, to my great relief, at length broke up, and I +returned to my wretched shelter. The chief pointed to my +bed, and bade me lie down. I complied, not to sleep, but +to adore the Providence that had twice rescued me as from +the very jaws of death, to reflect on the past and to speculate +on the future. The excitement of the evening kept +me wakeful, and the night wore away and the morning +dawned, without sleep for a moment visiting my eyes.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A new torture—Bloody gossip—An explosion nearly fatal—Plea of +insanity—Reconciliation—River Santa Cruz—Naval architecture—Original +mode of ferrying—Accident—Ominous demonstrations thereupon—Perilous +superstition—Plans of escape—The chief fighting his +battles over again—Prospects brighten—A blind hint to naturalists.</p> + +<p>From this point we moved again in a north-westerly direction, +finding game more plenty, and among other animals +captured a species of fox, the first I had seen in the country. +The camping-ground selected was a waste more desolate +than had yet greeted my sight, even in Patagonia,—a +low marsh, surrounded by sand-hills destitute of even the +semblance or vestige of vegetation, past or present. The +horses were let loose to solve the problem of existence as +they could, while my landladies, with their canine assistants, +served up a skunk and two ostrich-legs for supper. +I thought myself fortunate at getting so ample a meal, having +been on short allowance the preceding day.</p> + +<p>Here a new torture was inflicted. There had been abundance +of voluble hatred against me, as I had too good +reason to know, but it was around and behind me. Now, +presuming, doubtless, on my ignorance of their language, +they came to utter their bloodthirsty thoughts in my +presence. At night, before retiring, the women began to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +talk against me, as usual; which never gave me much uneasiness, +female opinion not having much force, I suspected, +in affairs of state. Two of them had always appeared to +bear me a mortal grudge, for what cause I could not conjecture, +unless they thought I took up too much of his +highness’ time, or exerted too much influence over him. +But, on the present occasion, the conference was enlarged +by the entrance of two or three visitors, whose only errand +seemed to be to give the chief gratuitous advice touching +the disposal of my person. Though perfectly comprehending +the drift of their remarks, I looked as stupid as possible, +and bent myself to caress and flatter the old fellow with +more than common servility;—patting his breast, telling +him what a big, good heart it contained, calling him my +<i>compadre</i>, and myself his child, his <i>piconine</i>, his <i>muchacho</i>. +So deep was my abasement! To talk of the goodness of a +heart beating with cruelty and black with crime! To call +that black, greasy, depraved monster my father, and myself +his dutiful and affectionate son! It is humiliating to +speak of this;—what, let the reader imagine, must it have +been to feel it! The bruised reed was well-nigh broken. +The courage that sustained me in sharp trials was frittered +away piecemeal by incessant irritation. Hope, that kept +me from fainting in the fatal ring, vanished with the occasion +that invoked it, and a bitter, consuming despair +hovered over me. Then came dark and distracting thoughts +of home, now more distant than ever, to stab my heart, +already faint and bleeding. Again was sleep driven from +me, but the night passed, and the blessed light of day stole +upon me, as with a benediction from heaven.</p> + +<p>I arose and rushed into the open air to warm myself by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +exercise, and when the fire was lighted comforted myself +by its kindly heat, and recovered a measure of buoyancy. +But the day was wearily spent, and night brought the merciless +gossips once more into the lodge. The two squaws +led off with words of the most fiendish hate, urging that I +should be summarily despatched, and gloating over anticipated +vengeance. Tempestuous thoughts and sleepless +hours had weakened me in body and mind. The fall of +successive drops of water will madden the stoutest brain, +and the drop too much had now lighted on my head. I +was frenzied; strong passions, hitherto held in check, overmastered +me. I rose, threw my cap violently on the +ground, stamped, gnashed my teeth, and cursed without +restraint. I shook my fists at them, defied their malice, +and raved for several minutes, reckless of consequences. +What was life to me? They were killing me by inches. +Let them do their worst, no matter how soon. The chief +was at first startled at such an explosion, and sat looking +fixedly upon me, with a dark and clouded brow. It was +fortunate that my rage was too impetuous to be contained +within the bounds of my Indian-Spanish vocabulary, but +breathed itself in good strong Saxon, so that speech could +not betray me. For no sooner had the internal pressure +been measurably relieved, than a sudden consciousness of +error—fatal error—smote me with a new dread. What +had I done? Where were my wits, that I should thus toss +away life to gratify impotent anger? If my chance of life +was worth little to myself, was it worth nothing to others, +that I should so trifle with it? With returning sanity of +feeling came also a hint of the way to repair my wrong. +Without waiting for any questions or wordy explanations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +I looked piteously at the chief, pointed to my head, and +assured him it was disordered. I could not help my +actions. I was sorry to make such an exhibition of myself, +but it was all my poor head; and holding on to the poor +head with one hand, I beat it reproachfully with the other, +at the same time giving vent to some unearthly noises +by way of corroboration. The old fellow looked rather +dubiously at this change of scene, and asked if it was at +them I shook my fists?—At them? No, no! they did not +understand me. My heart was good, like his, but it was +all my head, my poor naughty <i>cabeza</i>. Another thump on +my cranium, and a second edition of the howl, proved sufficient. +The plea of insanity was admitted; he expressed +himself satisfied, and explained the incident to the amazed +spectators. I drew a long breath with a returning sense +of security, scarcely crediting the success of the artifice, +and almost doubting whether the whole scene were not a +dream. Real or unreal, it was over, and things were apparently +on their former footing. Only my feminine foes +would not be convinced, and added this crowning indiscretion +to the list of my offences.</p> + +<p>We moved the next day in a northerly direction, and +struck the river Santa Cruz, encamping about an eighth of +a mile from its marshy banks, which, at this point, were +bent in a broad, horse-shoe curve. We were surrounded, +except on the river side, by high abrupt sand-banks, covered +in part by underbrush of a stunted growth. The river was +narrow, but deep and rapid. The Indians said it was the +Santa Cruz, and that it led directly to “Holland;” but +their lies about that same Dutch land had long since destroyed +all faith in their words. That it was the Santa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +Cruz was probable, for I knew of no other river in these +parts;—we had passed Corey Inlet and the Gallegos. +The rest of the story I could only <i>try</i> to credit. I tried to +urge them on, but they were not to be hurried. Some of +them grumbled that I had no intention of giving them +anything, but meant to slip from them the first opportunity. +No wonder they thought so; they certainly had not laid +me under very great obligations of gratitude. What on +earth they wanted of me, unless to fat and eat me, was +past conjecture; and my fare had not been of a nature to +induce corpulence, so that this supposition was not trustworthy. +They <i>said</i> they wanted me to help steal horses. +They were bound for the Rio Negro, where they meant to +steal seven hundred horses, of which number I was to get +two. Certainly, I told them, it would be just the thing; +and that was a most excellent reason for going to “Holland.” +They would find me a rare thief; but, however it +might be with them, <i>I</i> could not steal without a good stock +of rum and tobacco. Was I insincere in all this? The +reader may smile or may frown, but it was my purpose, if +I failed to escape by way of “Holland,” to humor them to +the top of their bent; to ride, hunt, and even <i>steal</i> my way +into their confidence;—any way to insure present safety, +and keep an eye open for future opportunities.</p> + +<p>Three or four days were passed in suspense, which was +at last terminated by taking our line of march down the +river. We halted at noon, at a point where the banks +sloped gently to the water’s edge, on either side of the +deep and narrow channel. Active preparations were here +commenced for crossing. Part of the horses were driven +across the river, whilst a portion of the tribe were occupied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> +in building boats to ferry their families and goods across. +Their boats are constructed after a simple fashion. A +quantity of bushes are cut and dragged down to the margin +of the water. They take four tent-stakes, and lay them so +as to enclose an area eight feet square, lashing them firmly +together at the four corners. Four Indians then raise the +stakes from the ground, while others place the skin covering +of the tent over the frame, allowing it to sag down +three or four feet. The edges of the skin are brought over +the stakes, and fastened on the inside. The bushes, made +ready for the purpose, are placed within, tops downward, +round the entire circumference, and secured to the stakes, +till the boat is completely timbered up. The bushes keep +the skin distended, and give to the vessel an oval shape, so +that, though square at the top, it bears a striking resemblance +to a large iron pot. Its length and its breadth of +beam are of course equal. When completed, it is firmly +lashed from stem to sternpost, and from side to side, with a +lariat, or green hide rope, forty feet long, to keep it from +spreading or racking. I had no hand in modelling this +witch of the wave, but, like an apprentice, did as I was +ordered in forwarding the structure, and, when nothing else +was required, “held on to the slack.” It was at last completed, +like the temple of Solomon, without the sound of +axe or hammer; neither bolts, trenails nor caulking-iron, +were required. We carried the barge down, and launched +her in the stream. Two paddles were made by lashing two +bladebones of the guanaco to sticks. Squaws, pappooses +and baggage, were stowed away, till the boat was laden to +the water’s edge. I was directed to take passage with the +family and household effects of the chief, and seated myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +in the centre of the closely-packed craft. One end of a +lariat was fastened to the boat, and the other tied to the +tail of a horse. A savage mounted, with one rein attached +to the wooden bit on the up-stream side. Two others took +the oars, one on each side, and a squaw was stationed on +the top-gallant forecastle for the purpose of singing, to +insure good luck. All is ready. The old horse wades till +the depth of water compels him to swim, and the boat is +pushed off. The rider floats on the horse’s back, kicking +the water with his feet, holding the rein in one hand, and +grasping the mane with the other. “Chew! chew!” he +shouts, at the top of his voice. The black swan in the +forecastle opens her capacious mouth and sings, “Yek yah, +youri miti! yek yah, youri miti!” The two oarsmen dig +away with might and main, while the younger fry swell the +chorus with a “Yah! yah! yah!” The boat brings some +heavy lurches to the windward, then yaws off to leeward; +all owing to those lubberly oarsmen not meeting her with +the helm in season. At length, after innumerable shiftings, +we reached the opposite shore, and waded up on dry land.</p> + +<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration"> +<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:464px" src="images/illus120.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="caption">FERRYING THE SANTA CRUZ.</td></tr></table> + +<p>Several boats were constructed after the same unique +model, and succeeded in crossing safely. Some of the +horses, being better adapted to towing, were swam back to +repeat the process, and our craft returned for a second +freight. I watched the proceedings from the bank with +intense interest, speculating on the probable consequences +of an accident to any of the fleet. Such was their superstition, +that, in the event of any ill befalling them, they +would be quite likely to ascribe it to me, and serve me +worse than Jonah was treated by his shipmates. The +swiftness of the current, and the rudeness of their navigation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +made them so liable to mischief, that it seemed wise +to prepare for it; and I at once began ingratiating myself +with two of the worst fellows in the whole tribe, by professions +of special good will and admiration for them, and +confidential hints that they would share more liberally in +the bounties of “Holland” than any of their fellows. +Whilst thus engaged, with cautious glances across the +river, to make sure that all was right, I perceived that +there was quite a commotion among the people below; +some were springing upon their horses,—others, ready +mounted, were dashing furiously down the bank. On looking +some distance below, a boat appeared to be in distress; +the lariat that bound it together had snapped asunder, and +the pressure within, and the strain of the horse without, +had broken the front stake; the horse, relieved of his +freight, pulled for the shore, and could neither be coaxed +nor beaten into a return to duty. The horsemen on the +banks dashed into the stream, and swam for the wreck, +which contained, among other passengers, a young child. +It was already filled with water, and was partially turned +on her side. The surface of the river was dotted with +dark forms, struggling with the mad current; one horseman +after another each grasped a floating object, and +made for the shore. The craft had drifted nearly half a +mile, and nothing could be made out very distinctly. The +squaws, on first perceiving the mischance, watched the +wreck, and sung in a loud and plaintive strain, all the +while casting unfriendly glances at me, and gradually approaching +the place where I stood. My apprehensions +were so far confirmed by this movement, that I told John +(the name I gave one of my present particular friends),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> +as he loved rum and tobacco, and expected to get any, not +to leave me. John saw at a glance what was in the wind, +and appreciated both the immediate danger and the ultimate +reward of averting it; namely, the privilege of being +gloriously drunk at my expense. He told me to go into +his hut, and pointed me to the furthest corner; where, +I being duly ensconced, he took his station, cutlass in hand, +directly in front of me. The singing grew louder, and the +voices more numerous about the door; the song was their +regular powwow strain, which invariably preluded the +killing of a horse. The Indians began to enter the lodge, +and looked unutterable things in the direction where I +was crouching; the wigwam was soon filled with them, and +they were beginning to crowd towards me, when old John +opened upon them, and told them they ought to be ashamed +of themselves, to come in there in that manner; they did +not even know what had happened,—they did not know +whether any lives were lost. They were threatening on +account of the death of a child, when, for aught they +knew, the child was alive; they had better wait patiently, +till they knew more about the matter, before they made +any further uproar about it. In this strain he parleyed +with them for some time, till they concluded to retire, +uttering, as they went, the most horrible sounds. I felt +less relief from their absence than if John had not, by implication, +fully assented that <i>if</i> the brat was drowned, my +life should answer for it. News soon came that the +children were all safe, but that the boat was lost.</p> + +<p>An instant change ensued: the fire appeared to be +quenched, but I feared it might break out at any moment +afresh. Knowing their treachery, I kept a pretty suspicious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> +watch on their movements; the chief soon came +over the river, hurried, perhaps, in his movements by the +accident, which he had witnessed from the opposite shore. +After conferring with John, and giving him some instructions, +and seeing that all was right, he reëmbarked for the +other shore, as he made it his special business to see that +all were passed across in safety. The ferrying ceased as +night came on; the chief was likely to be on the opposite +side all night, as there was a good day’s work yet to be +done before the whole would be transported. I had overheard +him giving special orders to keep a good look-out +on me during the night. I felt, however, some uneasiness +in his absence; he had been my most powerful protector, +having twice, at least, saved me from imminent death.</p> + +<p>I now began to revolve in my mind the possibility of +escape; the thought suggested itself that I might steal +one of their boats, and drift down the stream. I was long +since heartily tired of captivity; my situation, especially +if I was to be held a hostage of Providence for the safe +ferriage of the tribe, was desperate. But, on second +thought, I did not know that this was certainly the Santa +Cruz; if it was, I was furthermore ignorant of our distance +from the sea. I knew of no white settlement on or +near the river; none, I remembered, was laid down in +the chart; if such a settlement existed, I might hope to +reach it in a <i>boat</i>, but a voyage in such a craft as one of +these would be as hazardous as that of the wise men of +Gotham. If there was no such settlement, and “Holland” +was Patagonian for Utopia, my only chance, short of drifting +in my leathern sack out to sea, would be to land on +some island, in case an island there were; and then what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +should I live on, after landing? Berries I had never seen, +except once or twice. Besides, my stolen craft could not +be <i>paddled</i>,—the Indians had too good ears for that; I +must follow the channel passively, through all its course, +which was terribly crooked, while its rapidity increased +the risk that the ungainly vehicle would be disabled. On +the whole, it was so doubtful whether I could reach any +particular place, or escape starvation after I got there, +and so certain that failure would be death, the project +seemed a forlorn hope. But then, again, it was not more +forlorn than my present situation; so my poor mind +vibrated between dangers,—the danger of remaining where +I was,—the danger that I should escape only from the +frying-pan into the fire. At last, as I <i>felt</i> the frying-pan, +and only <i>feared</i> the fire, I concluded to try.</p> + +<p>Crawling as noiselessly as possible from my resting-place, +I stole softly out, and made for the river. Alack! +in calculating the chances, I had not once thought of four-footed +enemies, and they were upon me before I was halfway +to the shore,—a half-dozen dogs, barking loud enough +to wake the whole encampment. I retreated incontinently +to the lodge, and succeeded in getting quietly into my +quarters again, not without some inward spasms. It was +all for the best, no doubt, but it was not, just then, easy +to think so, or <i>possible</i> to <i>feel</i> so; and, therefore, after a +little time, I once more emerged from the lodge, and stole +towards the river by a different track, hoping to elude +those infernal dogs; but they, or some others, were on +the alert, and came pell-mell upon my rear, barking more +uproariously than before. I cursed the dogs, their masters, +and my own folly, and gave up the attempt.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ferrying recommenced the next morning; and before +night the whole tribe were safely landed, with their +effects, on the west side of the river, and their wigwams +were all pitched. We were short of provisions; but this +was a common case, and I was accustomed to it. I got an +occasional morsel of grease, sufficient to keep starvation +at bay; but illness, with bad and insufficient food, had +greatly emaciated me, till I was a spectacle but few degrees +above the living skeleton. But hope was still in +the ascendant, and I had no idea of lying down to die till +I was quite sure my time had come. We continued our +wanderings the next day in a westerly direction, slaying +every living creature that came within reach, from a +skunk to a guanaco. This was a great disappointment, as +I hoped we should go down the river, the direction in +which they said “Holland” lay, and the only direction in +which we were likely to strike a white settlement, if any +existed on the Atlantic coast. But my remonstrances on +this head were vain; they would go where they pleased, +and I must go with them. Time dragged heavily; hours +seemed days, and days weeks. But impatience is no +virtue, and submission was imperative.</p> + +<p>The country hereabout was more broken and mountainous +than any we had before traversed, with a more abundant +growth of bushes, and some clumps of stunted trees +here and there. As we proceeded, keeping still to the +north-west, game was more plenty. We came to two +ponds, or small lakes, one of not more than four acres in +extent, the other considerably larger; the latter was +shallow, at least near the shore, as some ostriches pursued<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +by the Indians ran into it, and their pursuers waded after, +and succeeded in capturing them.</p> + +<p>At one time I observed a large scar in the calf of the +chief’s leg; the mark of a wound that must have been +inflicted a long time before, as it was completely healed. +Its depression was so great as to indicate a very severe +cut, unless the old fellow had grown uncommonly fat since +he received it. On inquiring the cause of it, he said it +was from a wound inflicted by the Alanagros, a tribe inhabiting +a country to the northward. The name he gave +them signifies the blacks; and, from the manner in which +he spoke of them, I inferred they were in some respects +superior to the Patagonians. He said they were armed +with cutlasses, and very long knives,—had tobacco, and +plenty of horses; and I conjectured that they might have +been a party of Spanish Americans, or one of the mixed +races of Spanish origin. The fight, he said, arose on occasion +of his tribe being on a horse-stealing expedition; they +encamped a short distance off, and at night he made a +descent on the Alanagros, killed some of them, and plundered +their camp, carrying off many of their horses. The +plundered tribe rallied, hotly pursued them, and recaptured +a part of the booty; in the struggle wounding him +with a cutlass, and, as I judged by appearances, cutting to +the bone. He told the story with great spirit, slashing +right and left, and grunting with extraordinary emphasis, +as if to give an impression that good hard blows were +given and taken: but I afterwards learned that it was +a cowardly running fight, in which more sweat than blood +was spilled.</p> + +<p>Nothing of importance occurred at our encampment near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +the lakes, except—what was a very noteworthy fact with +me—such an abundance of ostrich that I was surfeited +with the delicious fare, and was compelled by the chief to +take a horse-rein emetic,—a more precise description of +which the reader will have no difficulty in excusing. Had +I not so completely disavowed the medical character, the +chief might probably have allowed me to feel my own pulse,—if +I could find it,—and to prescribe for myself; but the +renunciation of professional honors brought me under the +sanitary, as well as the political, jurisdiction of Parosilver.</p> + +<p>Our line of march was now in a northerly direction, soon +deflecting to the eastward,—a movement that revived my +sinking hopes. There seemed to be some prospect of striking +the Atlantic coast, and coming within reach of civilized +men. On our way we observed the tracks of some animals +different from any I had met with. The chief said it was +the <i>limerer</i>, with which lucid definition I was fain to be content; +and, as no specimens were visible, the inquisitive +naturalist must trust to his imagination for the rest.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VIII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Retrograde march—A look-out ahead—New specimens of birds observed—To +the right again—Large inducements to visit Holland—Apparent +effect—Council—Other tribes of Indians—Story of a battle—Capture +of wild horses—A royal speech worth hearing—Deputation +to Holland—A start and a sudden halt—Journey commenced +in earnest—Order of arrangements—First view of Holland—A +weary day and night—A boat—A short parley—Swimming for life +and liberty—A rescue—Farewell to Patagonia.</p> + +<p>My hopes were soon cast down, by a decided movement +to the westward. Every step, I was convinced, lengthened +the distance between me and the spot where my most earnest +wishes centred; for, though I knew not of any settlements +in this barren region, yet it was pretty certain that +if there was one it must be sought in the line of the Santa +Cruz. Of our latitude and longitude I could form no decisive +judgment; but by the aid of the sun, of which occasional +glimpses were caught, it was easy to take note of our +direction, and I never retired to rest without taking landmarks, +and satisfying myself as nearly as possible as to our +whereabouts. At night there was a renewal of the discussions +which had once so nearly turned my brain, and now at +times came near verifying the plea which then saved me +from destruction; but I was enabled to keep my feelings in +more equal check. Disappointed and care-worn, I spent the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +night in commending myself to the mercy and good providence +of God, praying that he would soften the heart of +the savage and open a way of deliverance.</p> + +<p>Among other matters that excited my curiosity, I was +anxious to know whether the Indians were expert swimmers. +The only occasion on which I had seen them attempt it was +at the time of the accident in crossing the river. Then two +of them swam across, while the others floated on their +horses’ backs, clinging to the mane. In answer to some +questions dropped on the subject, the chief assured me that +they were all expert swimmers, and could stretch off a long +distance without resting, as they would show me, but that +the coldness of the season made the experiment too unpleasant. +Others of the tribe told the same story. The question +was interesting, for obvious reasons. I had thought a +time might come when it would be a very practical one.</p> + +<p>Some new specimens of birds made their appearance from +time to time. One was a large black bird, resembling the +turkey-buzzard, and subsisting on carrion. Another resembled +the snow-birds of the north. I had also seen, near the +sea-shore and by the lakes, several species of water-fowl,—one +not unlike the wild goose, but the chief said they were +not good for food.</p> + +<p>Our course, the next day, was northward, and the day following +turned once more decidedly towards the east, whereat +my hopes, varying with the compass, began to revive, +though their buoyancy was tempered by experience of the +uncertainty of Indian movements. Observing a spot covered +with small trees, over which a great number of carrion +birds hovered, we approached and found the carcass of a +poor old guanaco, which had most likely paid the debt of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +nature without compulsion, and was stripped of its flesh by +the birds. The chief broke some of the bones and eagerly +sucked the marrow, and then picked up the remainder to +add to the domestic stock of grease.</p> + +<p>At the close of the next day we brought up at a ravine, +and found our camp by following it a short distance to a +low flat. Proceeding to the eastward all the next day, we +ascended a high eminence, from which the chief pointed in a +south-westerly direction, and said that “Holland” lay <i>there</i>. +I strained my eyes in the quarter indicated, without, however, +making any discoveries, and with a strong disposition +to think the Old Boy was hoaxing me. At dark we defiled +down a steep declivity, and pitched our tents on the border +of an extensive marsh covered with ice. Here I renewed +my arguments for speeding our way to the promised land, +dilating on the qualities of the promised rum in a style +that would have astonished the advocates of the Maine +liquor law, and impaired the confidence of those who had +reasonably regarded me as a strict temperance man. Indeed, +the antics and grimace with which I enforced the description, +and illustrated the jovial effects of the creature,—the boasts +of how I would teach them, by its aid, to throw the lasso, +and perform most astonishing feats of horse-stealing and +riding,—might have induced a suspicion that I knew more +of it than mere observation or fancy could teach. But, +however it may affect my reader, it produced unmistakable +contentment and satisfaction to my Patagonian auditors; +and that was what I aimed at. They looked and listened +with watering mouths and hoarse laughter, giving token +that the balmy description was appreciated to a most desirable +degree. So evident was the impression that I spent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +the next day running about and giving line upon line to the +most influential of the tribe, and succeeded, as I thought, in +awakening a degree of enthusiasm to move towards the +place where all these good things were to be got. In confirmation +of this, I had the satisfaction of being called at +night to attend a solemn council.</p> + +<p>It was a peaceful gathering,—they left their weapons +behind,—but it contemplated only a sort of preliminary +inquiry; the Patagonians know how to make their forms of +procedure as tedious as any of our courts of law, summary +as are many of their dealings. They examined and cross-examined +very strictly, sifting my story with a severity +which showed that they were in earnest, and at the same +time a little suspicious. It was necessary to be on my +guard at all points; and if they had been more docile learners +of arithmetic, and able to stick on questions of number +and quantity, it might have been a harder matter to satisfy +them. But, on the whole, the old story was stuck to with +a degree of consistency that produced the desired effect. +Their confidence was perceptibly raised, and, after a good +deal of talk, the council adjourned, every one more than +ever disposed to visit “Holland.”</p> + +<p>While at this encampment, I observed on the ground +about a dozen large oyster-shells, that appeared to have +been recently opened. These were the first and only shells +of the kind I saw in the country. I inquired if they were +plenty in that vicinity. They said they were not; none of +the tribe seemed to know where they came from, or anything +about them. The chief said that he and his people did not +relish oysters, but other Indians ate them. He did not like +fish of any kind; no fish had grease enough for them;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> +none of <i>his</i> Indians ate fish. This, and some similar incidents +and conversations, convinced me that there were other +Indian tribes in the vicinity. On one occasion I had +noticed some places where a tribe, probably as numerous as +our own, had encamped. Their fires appeared to have +been very recently extinguished. Our tribe appeared to +be considerably disturbed at these discoveries, and I +judged that they were the traces of some enemies. It is +certain that my captors had seen some desperate fights, of +which they bore the marks on their persons. One of them +had a deep scar on his breast, which he said was the mark +of an arrow-shot received from the <i>”Yamaschoner”</i> Indians, +a tribe that use the bow and arrow. His description suggested +the probability that these were the Terra-del-Fuego +Indians; but, on mentioning the conjecture at a later period +to a person I met at the Chilian penal settlement, he informed +me that those islanders invariably shoot <i>poisoned</i> arrows, +which would not leave the victim much leisure to describe +their effect. The scar in question was a deep one, in the +region of the heart; and while I was examining it, the chief +remarked that the arrow passed through his body and came +out at his back. On examination, a distinct scar was visible +on his back, so far corresponding in form and direction +with the one in front, that it seemed likely to have been +made by the same weapon. But how the arrow could have +transfixed him through the chest, without wounding the +vital organs, was not easily to be conjectured. The only +explanation I could conceive of was, that the fellow’s heart +was so much harder than any material used for arrowheads, +that the missile, instead of penetrating that important +organ, had glanced aside and passed without mortal hurt.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +Enough had been developed to assure me that the tribe generally +had hearts of no ordinary toughness, capable of serving +them for all practical purposes wherein impenetrable +stuff was in request; but the tale of this miraculous escape +gave a new impression of obduracy, and entitled the hero to +bear the palm among his fellows. I pretended to pity him +for his former sufferings, and went so far as to volunteer—in +case I should ever be permitted to enter the enemy’s territory—to +make mince-meat of some of them, and so to +avenge his cruel injuries. This spontaneous sympathy and +forwardness to take up his quarrel was exceedingly gratifying +to the sufferer and to the chief, and drew from them a +more particular narrative of the combat.</p> + +<p>They were out on a horse-stealing expedition,—the +usual occasion, it seems, of Patagonian fights,—and made a +swoop upon the camp of another tribe. The objects of this +felonious invasion asserted title to the horses in their possession +by certain tangible arguments, and induced a mortal +combat. And now Old Boy waxed eloquent, and especially +displayed that prime ingredient, “action.” His +broad-sword exercise was really animated, and taught us +“how fields were won,”—or would have done so, but that, +while his right hand was slashing the air with his good +steel, his left <i>would</i> hold the bridle-rein, and his heels +involuntarily drive the spur;—in short, though it was a +part on which he did not linger in the narration any more +than in the act, there was some tall running on the occasion. +So artlessly was the tale told, that while the hero +was cutting and thrusting and grunting, to make due impression +of the desperate bravery displayed in the encounter, +his subordinate action clearly depicted a running and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +retreating fight, and convinced me that they got a sound +drubbing for their pains. He said he killed one Indian, +with an air that would have done justice to the slaying of +a regiment. Shocking to relate, there were found persons +who slanderously reported to me that Old Boy’s legs had +the unhappy propensity of Pat O’Flaherty’s, whose heart +was as brave as any man’s, but his cowardly legs ran away +with his body; and they scrupled not to affirm that in +this same hard-fought battle he crawled into the bushes, +and there secreted himself till the cessation of hostilities +enabled him to rejoin his tribe.</p> + +<p>The reader has doubtless noticed that “the tribe” has +been all along anonymous. The explanation comes rather +late, but, in point of fact, I never could learn that they +had any distinctive name; they never used any. Indeed +proper names were very seldom heard. Even in conversation +concerning each other, they managed to avoid “naming +names” as strictly as so many honorable senators, though +for no reason that I could discover. By signs and gestures, +and other hints, they indicated the personal subject +of remark, and seemed to suffer no inconvenience from +what would be felt among us as a serious want.</p> + +<p>While out hunting one day with the chief, we ascended a +slight eminence, commanding a view of an extensive plain. +The chief suddenly stopped his horse, and looked steadily +forward. I bent my eyes in the same direction, and saw +two or three mounted Indians moving towards a common +point. There was nothing unusual to be seen, but Old +Boy seemed to discover something. I inquired what it +was. He answered by pointing; and, on a second view, I +observed a horse loose, which I took to be that of some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +Indian temporarily dismounted. But the chief said they +were about to catch a wild horse, and forthwith dashed off +at a furious rate, bidding me follow. We were rapidly +nearing the spot, when the two in advance of us put their +horses at top speed towards the lone horse that was standing +beside a clump of bushes. It suddenly ran before its +pursuers, followed by two colts from the thicket. The +colts appeared to be one or two years old, and were doubtless +following their dam. One Indian singled out the +mare, and another the larger colt. The little one did not +lag behind. The chief and myself followed at a pace which +would have made a single misstep fatal to our necks; but +fortunately our horses proved sure-footed. On we dashed, +helter-skelter, in a direction to head off the pursuers, and +to place ourselves nearest to the affrighted animals. The +mare yet holds the lead, and fairly tears up the soil with +her flashing hoofs. An Indian, in close pursuit, presently +swings his lariat about his head; but she makes a curve in +her course, and springs beyond the reach of his aim. Her +pursuer once more gains on her; again the lariat swings +through the air,—he lets go,—the noose catches her neck,—the +hunter’s horse turns suddenly off, and the rope, +securely attached to the saddle, brings the poor captive +headlong to the ground. The trained horse keeps a strain +on the noose sufficient to prevent her from rising, while the +hunter dismounts and secures his prize. The colts shared +the same fate, and, with the mother, were subdued and +made useful to the tribe.</p> + +<p>The scenes and reminiscences I have described did not +prevent the matter of most absorbing interest to myself—the +projected visit to “Holland”—from engaging due<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +attention. The chief came home from the council full of +it. He was in royal good humor, and talked about it half +the night; but several objections arose, which it was necessary +for me to dispose of. These were met, apparently to +his full satisfaction. One of the most serious was the fear +that the white men would revenge upon him the murder of +Captain Eaton. I assured him that so long as I was with +him he had nothing to fear on that score; the people were +all mine, and would do, or refrain from doing, whatever I +should bid them. They would not dare to lift their hands +against him contrary to my orders, or refuse to deliver +what articles I chose to demand. Nothing, I found, would +do, but the assertion of absolute supremacy over all white +men whatever, the world around; less than this would not +secure the confidence of these savages, and I regulated my +speech by the necessities of the case. The chief inquired, +half a dozen times over, what I would say to the white +men, and I as often rehearsed an address for the occasion. +At last his curiosity seemed abated, and we fell asleep.</p> + +<p>Early the next morning we were up and stirring, and +the chief having adjusted his toilet with care, a slight +breakfast was made ready. This over, his highness stood +forth, and from the door of his lodge made an official +address to the tribe, wherein he set out the advantages of a +visit to “Holland,” and suggested the most expedient +style of making it. He advised that a few only of the +tribe should be deputed, with himself, to accompany me, and +receive the stores of rum, tobacco, bread, rice, tea, butter, +beads, brass, copper, and so forth, that were to be forthcoming, +as the expression of my gratitude for the distinguished +consideration with which they had treated me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +Though royal speeches seldom excite any jealousy of plagiarism, +and it may seem a little captious on my part to +make such a charge, it is due to “the truth of history” to +declare, that herein the great Parosilver did but repeat a +suggestion which he did me the honor to receive with favor +over-night. It was not deemed essential to the case to +inform his highness of <i>all</i> the reasons that led me to wish +for as small an escort as the nature of the business would +admit. On the contrary, acting upon the profound maxim, +that one <i>sufficient</i> reason is as good as a dozen, and better +than that number of questionable ones, I merely advised, +that, after the experience which Captain Eaton and others +had had of Patagonian prowess, the sight of too many of +his giants would frighten away the whites, and prevent all +beneficial communication with them; while the presence of +a small deputation would be a pledge of their pacific inclinations. +The speech from the throne proved less <i>moving</i> +than most of the chief’s effusions: his lieges listened with +great interest, and an earnest debate sprung up, at the +conclusion of which it was decided that the chief, with four +other Indians and their squaws, should be my body-guard, +the rest of the tribe to follow after. Another old woman +begged to go with us, which was agreed to. The horse I +had been in the habit of riding was lame, and unfit for +service; another was procured for me.</p> + +<p>Our simple preparations for departure were soon made, +and as we were about to start they all began bringing their +dirty children to me, and requesting that I would bring +brass and beads for them all; which was gravely promised, +much to their satisfaction. There remained the last act in +the comedy for which I had been long rehearsing,—if, indeed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +it did not turn out a tragedy. The idea had early +occurred to me, that if I had some object to which I +appeared very much attached, it might prove to be for my +advantage; the Indians might hold it, in my absence at +any time, as a sort of surety for my return. A belle from +among the beauties of the tribe would be effectual to that +end; but, if no sentiments of virtue had restrained me from +this expedient, the filth and unsightliness of them all were +enough to insure continence. I chose, therefore, a little +white dog for a pet,—a dirty, thievish little rascal;—but +I fondled him in the style proper to a violent attachment. +It is true that when I saw him licking the meat designed +for our repast it was not easy to refrain from kicking his +worthless brains out; but this was a trifle to other things I +had to endure, and I made myself apparently so fond of +him that the reality of the case was never suspected. Now +and then I indemnified myself by giving him, when unobserved, +a smart rapping for his misdeeds, though such +chastisement made but a slight impression on the object of +it. As we were about setting out, I was asked if I intended +to take my dog. No, I told them, he would be +better off there, and when I returned he should have some +bread and other dainties to eat. The ruse more than answered +its expected end, in lulling all suspicion of my +sincerity.</p> + +<p>At last we were under way. The grand crisis to which +all my diplomacy and the utmost license of fiction had +tended was near at hand. A strong hope of deliverance +braced my spirits, shaded, it is true, by a natural apprehension +of possible failure, and of the consequences that +might follow. With no great elation of spirits, but with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +stern, severe tension of all my mental energies, and a concentration +of them into one focus of resolve, I waved a farewell, +which I hoped might be everlasting, to the accursed +gang of robbers who had tormented me so many tedious +weeks. “Good-by to Patagonia!” I mentally ejaculated, and +struck off with my escort; but had not gone more than an +eighth of a mile, when the party wheeled about and ordered +me to follow them back to the camp! I remonstrated, but +it was of no use, and with a heavy heart I found myself +once more in my dirty corner of a wigwam. The horses +were turned adrift without a word of explanation, and the +Indians sat down to a game of cards, with as much indifference +to everything else as if the events of the past forty-eight +hours had been a feverish dream. What could be the +meaning of it? I questioned the chief. He merely replied +that he would go by and by,—by and by; which, being +interpreted, probably meant when he pleased, and that +convenient season might never arrive! After I had teased +him for a long time he took me to the door of the lodge, and, +pointing to the river, said it was “no good then;” it would +be “good” at night. What the state of the river, which +was a shallow stream, a branch of the Santa Cruz, had to do +with the matter, I could not divine, and was half inclined to +vote myself fairly outwitted by the Old Boy.</p> + +<p>The day, a long one, at last wore off, and at night we once +more set off. We crossed the frozen marsh, and forded the +river, and, after going about two miles, stopped for repose. +We took no camp equipage, and had to shelter ourselves for +the night under the lee of a clump of bushes. We thrust +our feet into the thicket, while our heads lodged out of +doors. In this interesting attitude I was made to repeat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +my wearisome detail of promises, and to rehearse once more +my contemplated speech to the white men; which done, we +dropped asleep. Waking early the next morning, I found +my head and shoulders covered with a fleecy mantle of snow. +Would the fortune of my expedition fall as lightly on me? +I shook it off, turned up my coat-collar, pulled my poor, +more than half worn-out cap over my ears, and so, partially +protected from the storm, rolled over, and again sunk into +a slumber. The storm ceased at dawn of day. I rose and +went in search of fuel, while my dark companions still slept +profoundly. In an hour or two they roused themselves, and +kindled a fire. Meat, from a store brought along for our +provision on the way, was cooked, and served for breakfast. +The scanty meal being despatched, our horses were driven +in, lassoed, mounted, and we resumed our journey, in a +south-easterly direction. At the end of about three miles +another halt was called, a fire was built to warm by, and +the horses were watered. The order of arrangements was +discussed, and a fresh edition of the promises and the +speech critically listened to. Changing our course a little +to the right, we soon struck the Santa Cruz. The Indians +pointed far down the stream, and said, “There is Holland.” +I strained my eyes in the direction pointed out, and +thought I could discern an island with several small huts +upon it. A mile or two further on the north bank brought +us to the mouth of the river, in prospect of the Atlantic. +The island was directly opposite the mouth, and the lower +part only appeared to be inhabited. We halted. The Indians +pointed towards it, exclaiming, “Esta Holland sarvey! +muchas casas, mucho mucho hombres, tene mucho aquadiente, +mucho travac, yeruen, arenar, arose!”—This is Holland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +and has plenty of houses, and abundance of men,—plenty +of rum, tobacco, bread, tea, flour and rice! I surveyed the +spot in silence. This island was of considerable extent, +lying two-thirds across the wide mouth of the river, its surface +dotted over with little knolls or hillocks of earth. +Could it be that these were dwellings inhabited by white +men?</p> + +<p>Our horses’ heads were now turned from the shore, +and we rode back about an eighth of a mile to a large clump +of bushes, unsaddled our beasts, and waited some time for +the rest of our company, who had fallen in the rear. They +came at last, our horses were turned adrift, fire was +lighted, and, as the day was far spent, supper was in order. +Then ensued a repetition—a final one, I trusted—of the +grand present to be levied on the Hollanders, and of the +speech which was to draw them out. The Indians arranged +that I was to hoist the English flag,—the colors of the +unfortunate brig Avon, which they had brought along at +my request,—and then to walk the shore to attract the +attention of the islanders. On the approach of a boat, I was +to be kept back from the beach, to prevent escape; for I +found that they were not, after all, as well assured of my +good faith as might have been desirable. They thought, +moreover, that when the white men saw a prisoner with +them, they would come ashore to parley, and offer presents +to effect his release; in that case, there might be a chance, +if the negotiation proved unsatisfactory, to take bonds of +fate in the form of another captive or two. So, at least +there was ground to suspect,—and some cause to fear that +the rascals might prove too shrewd for all of us!</p> + +<p>After talking till a late hour, the Indians threw themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> +upon the ground, stuck their feet into the bushes, and +were soon fast asleep. I consulted the chief as to the propriety +of modifying this arrangement, by placing our heads, +rather than our feet, under cover, since both could not be +accommodated. He declined any innovations, and told me +to go to sleep. I stretched myself on the ground, but as to +sleep, that was out of the question. I lay all night, thinking +over all possible expedients for escape. We had no materials +for a boat or raft of any description, and it was impossible +to think of any plan that promised success; so that, +after tossing, in body and mind, through the weary hours +of night, I could only resolve to wait the course of events, +and to take advantage of the first opportunity affording +a reasonable hope of deliverance from this horrid captivity. +Snow, sleet and rain, fell during the night; and I rose early, +thoroughly chilled, every tooth chattering. A fire was +kindled, and the last morsel of meat that remained to us +was cooked and eaten. The weather continued squally till +the middle of the afternoon.</p> + +<p>After breakfast the chief went with me to the shore, bearing +the flag. On the beach I found a strip of thick board, to +which I fastened the colors, and then planted it in the sand. +The bushes around, which have a kind of oily leaf and readily +ignite, were set on fire. I then walked the beach,—but +no boat came. When it cleared up sufficiently to see, I +observed little objects moving about on the island. The +day wore away with fruitless attempts to attract their +attention. With an aching heart I returned, at dark, to the +camping-ground. On this island my hopes had so long +centred,—if they were now to be disappointed, how could +I endure it? The Indians began to talk of rejoining the tribe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +the following day. I opposed the motion with all the dissuasives +at command, assuring them that, at sight of our +flag, the islanders would surely come over in a boat, and +that, if they would only wait a little, they could go over to +the island and enjoy themselves to their hearts’ content; +representing the absolute necessity that I should procure +the rum, &c., we had talked of, and how embarrassing +it would be to go back to the tribe empty-handed, after +all that had been said, to be ridiculed and reproached. It +would never do. Our conversation was continued till quite +late, when we ranged ourselves, hungry and weary, for +another night. For hours I was unable to sleep. The +uncertainties of my situation oppressed me, and I lay restless, +with anxiety inexpressible, inconceivable by those whom +Providence has preserved from similar straits. It was a +season of deep, suppressed, silent misery, in which the heart +found no relief but in mute supplication to Him who was +alone able to deliver. Towards morning, exhausted with +the intensity of emotion acting on an enfeebled body, I +slept a little, and woke at early dawn, to a fresh consciousness +of my critical position.</p> + +<p>The weather had been fair during the night, but there +were now indications of another snow-storm. I waited long +and impatiently for my companions to awake, and at last +started off in quest of fuel; on returning with which, they +bestirred themselves and started a fire, which warmed our +half-benumbed limbs. There lay the little island, beautiful +to eyes that longed, like mine, for a habitation of sympathizing +men, about a mile and a half distant; it almost +seemed to recede while I gazed, so low had my hopes sunken, +under the pressure of disappointment and bitter uncertainty.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +A violent snow-storm soon setting in, it was hidden from +view; everything seemed to be against me. It slackened, and +partially cleared up,—then came another gust, filling the +air, and shutting up the prospect. In this way it continued +till past noon; at intervals, as the sky lighted up, +I took a fire-brand, and set fire to the bushes on the beach, +and then hoisted the flag again, walking wearily to and +fro, till the storm ceased, and the sky became clear. The +chief concealed himself in a clump of bushes, and sat +watching, with cat-like vigilance, the movements of the +islanders. After some time, he said a boat was coming; I +scarcely durst look in the direction indicated, lest I should +experience a fresh disappointment; but I did look, and +saw, to my great joy, a boat launched, with four or five +men on board, and pushing off the shore. On they came; +the chief reported his discovery, and the rest of the Indians +came to the beach, where I was still walking backward +and forward. The boat approached, not directly off where +I was, but an eighth of a mile, perhaps, to the windward, +and there lay on her oars.</p> + +<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration"> +<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:489px" src="images/illus146.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="caption">THE ESCAPE.</td></tr></table> + +<p>The Indians hereupon ordered me to return to the +camping-ground; but, without heeding them, I set off at a +full run towards the boat. They hotly pursued, I occasionally +turning and telling them to come on,—I only +wanted to see the boat. “Stop! Stop!” they bawled. +“Now, my legs,” said I, “if ever you want to serve me, +this is the time.” I had one advantage over my pursuers; +my shoes, though much the worse for wear, protected +my feet from the sharp stones, which cut theirs at +every step; but, under all disadvantages, I found they +made about equal speed with myself. As I gained a point +opposite the boat, the Indians slackened their speed, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a><br /><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a><br /><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +looked uneasily at me; the man in the stern of the boat +hailed me, inquiring what Indians these were, what number +of them, and how I came among them. I replied in as +few words as possible, and told him we wished to cross to +the island. He shook his head; they were bad fellows, he +said; he could not take me with the Indians. They began +to pull away! I made signs of distress, and waved them +to return, shouting to them through my hands. The boat +was again backed within hailing distance. “Will you +look out for me, if I come by myself?” “Yes!” was the +prompt reply. The Indians, all this time, had kept within +ten or fifteen feet of me, with their hands on their knives, +and reiterating their commands to come back, at the same +time edging towards me in a threatening manner. “Yes, +yes,” I told them, “in a moment,” but I wanted to look at +the boat,—taking care, however, to make good my distance +from them. At the instant of hearing the welcome +assurance that I should be cared for, I drew out the watch +(which I had brought, according to promise, to have a new +crystal inserted at Holland), and threw it into the bushes; +the salt water would spoil it, and, if I <i>should</i> be retaken, +the spoiling of that would be an aggravation which might +prove fatal. At the same moment I gave a plunge headlong +into the river; my clothes and shoes encumbered me, +and the surf, agitated by a high wind, rolled in heavy +seas upon the shore. The boat was forty or fifty yards +off; and, as the wind did not blow square in shore, drifted, +so as to increase the original distance, unless counteracted +by the crew. Whether the boat was backed up towards +me, I could not determine; my head was a great part of +the time under water, my eyes blinded with the surf; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +most strenuous exertion was necessary to live in such a +sea. As I approached the boat I could see several guns, +pointed, apparently, at me. Perhaps we had misunderstood +each other,—perhaps they viewed me as an enemy! +In fact, they were aimed to keep the Indians from following +me into the water, which they did not attempt. My +strength was fast failing me; the man at the helm, perceiving +it, stretched out a rifle at arm’s length. The +muzzle dropped into the water, and arrested my feeble +vision. Summoning all my remaining energy, I grasped +it, and was drawn towards the boat; a sense of relief shot +through and revived me, but revived, also, such a dread +lest the Indians should give chase, that I begged them to +pull away,—I could hold on. The man reached down, +and seized me by the collar, and ordered his men to ply +their oars. They had made but a few strokes, when a +simultaneous cry broke from their lips, “Pull the dear +man in! Pull the dear man in!” They let fall their +oars, laid hold of me, and, in their effort to drag me over +the side of their whale-boat, I received some injury; I +requested that they would let me help myself; and, working +my body up sufficiently to get one knee over the gunwale, +I gave a spring, with what strength was left me, and +fell into the bottom of the boat. They kindly offered to +strip me, and put on dry clothes; but I told them, if they +would only work the boat further from the shore, I would +take care of myself. They pulled away, while I crawled +forward, divested myself of my coat, and put on one +belonging to one of the crew. Conversation, which was +attempted, was impossible; it was one of the coldest days +of a Patagonian winter,—I was chilled through, and could +only articulate, “I ca-n’t ta-lk now; I’ll ta-lk by a-nd<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +by.” Some liquor, bread and tobacco, which had been +put on board for my ransom, on supposition that this was +what the signal meant, was produced for my refreshment. +The sea was heavy, with a strong head-wind; so that, +though the men toiled vigorously, our progress was slow. +I was soon comfortably warmed by the stimulants provided, +and offered to lend a hand at the oar; but the offer +was declined. The shouts and screams of the Indians, +which had followed me into the water, and rung hideously +in my ears while struggling for life in the surf, were kept +up till distance made them inaudible. Whether they +found the watch, whose mysterious tick at once awed and +delighted them, and restored it to its place of state in the +chief’s lodge, or whether it still lies rusting in the sands +by the sea-shore, is a problem unsolved.</p> + +<p>The boat at last grounded on the northern shore of the +island; Mr. Hall, the gentleman who commanded the +party, supported my tottering frame in landing; and, as +we stepped upon the shore, welcomed me to their island. +I grasped his hand, and stammered my thanks for this +deliverance, and lifted a tearful eye to Heaven, in silent +gratitude to God. I was then pointed to a cabin near by, +where a comfortable fire was ready for me. “Now,” I +heard Mr. Hall say, “let us fire a salute of welcome to +the stranger. Make ready! present! fire!” Off went all +their muskets, and a very cordial salute it appeared to be. +He soon followed me, took me to his own dwelling, supplied +me with dry clothing, and, above all, warmed me in +the kindly glow of as generous a heart as ever beat in +human bosom.</p> + +<p>I was captured by the savages on the 1st of May, and +landed upon the island on the 7th of August.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IX.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A civilized meal—A happy evening—A survey of the island—Preparation +of guano—Preparations against invasion by the giants—A proposal +to attack them—Loyalty and revenge—Killing time—Trouble +in the settlement—A disagreeable situation—Arrival of vessels—Countrymen—A +welcome by new friends.</p> + +<p>After getting sufficiently thawed out, I gave a synopsis +of my adventures. The cook presently laid the table, and +brought in supper. I ate heartily of bread and Irish pork, +and drank tea raised in Brazil, called <i>matte</i>. It may not +compare favorably with the produce of China, but to me it +was a delicious beverage. I had been in captivity ninety-seven +days, living as the reader has seen. Although I partook +freely of supper,—too freely for one in my weak condition,—I +rose from the meal with as keen an appetite as +I brought to it. I again expressed to Mr. Hall, on learning +his name, my gratitude at finding myself, through his +timely assistance, among friends, though a stranger. He +cordially sympathized with me, observing that he had been +a prisoner among the Patagonians for one day only, but had +seen enough in that short time to be convinced that a life +of ninety-seven days with them must have been dreadful +indeed.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p> + +<p>After supper the boat was hauled up on the island. Pipes +and tobacco were furnished, and I passed in the society of +my deliverers one of the happiest evenings of my whole +life. The change was so great, from the miserable and +almost hopeless existence I had so long lived, that my joy +exceeded all bounds. My heart overflowed with gratitude. +Words could not then, and cannot now, convey any adequate +impression of my feelings,—of the freedom and joy +that animated me, on being snatched from perils, privations +and enemies, and placed, as in a moment, in security, in +plenty, and in the society of friends. It seemed like a +dream, the change was so sudden and so total.</p> + +<p>The little house which for the present I called my home, +and which, in fact, appeared to me at the time the pleasantest +dwelling I had ever seen, was about twelve by fifteen +feet upon the ground, built of boards and scantling, and +lined with blue Kentucky jean. The fireplace was in the +middle of one end, and a door opened at the opposite extremity. +Two large closets were parted off, the one used +as a cupboard, and the other for stores. Each side was +lighted by a window containing four panes of seven-by-nine +glass. Two comfortable settees, probably saved from some +wreck, lined the sides of the room, and a good-sized hardwood +table occupied the centre. It was floored overhead, +and a trap-door opened into a sleeping apartment, fitted +with two little berths,—one for Mr. Hall, and the other for +Morrison, the Scotchman.</p> + +<p>As we have described the interior of our snug little cottage, +we will bestow a word or two on its exterior and surroundings. +Its cracks and joints, over the roof and walls, +were covered with strips of tarred duck, and battened with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> +narrow pieces of thin board. It was situated on a little +mound of guano, perhaps four feet high, and was banked up +to the windows with the same material. The height of the +walls above the embankment was about seven feet, the embankment +three feet more. A ship’s bell was suspended on +the north-east corner of the house, to notify the workmen +of the hours of labor and of their meals. Sea Lion Island, +as it is called,—the name “Holland” was probably corrupted +by the Indians, from the word <i>island</i>, indistinctly +pronounced in their hearing,—is about a mile and a quarter +long from north to south, with an average width of an +eighth of a mile, and is covered over its entire surface with +low evergreen bushes. The settlement was made by an +English company, for the purpose of collecting guano and +preparing it for exportation, and was situated on the southern +extremity.</p> + +<p>Our social evening was prolonged to a late hour, the moments +sped by the stimulus of novel enjoyment. One of +the settees was assigned for my couch, bed-clothes were +provided, and a bag filled with ships’ colors and other articles +served for a pillow. Before committing ourselves to +repose, however, we discussed the probability of an invasion +from the continent, and came to the conclusion that +nothing was to be feared in that quarter before morning. +Old Boy and his party, it was obvious, would have to +return to the main body of the tribe for reinforcements and +naval equipage before attempting pursuit, as they had no +materials for the construction of boats or rafts, even if they +would dare to tempt salt water in their leathern sacks. We +accordingly dismissed the subject for the time, and Mr. Hall +and the Scotchman, having cared for my comfort with anxious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> +kindness, disappeared through the trap-door, leaving +behind a friendly benediction. The little cottage was warm; +my couch was the perfection of comfort, in contrast with +that which had been my lot for ninety-seven wretched +nights. Above all, for the first time in so many weeks, I +could lie down without the fear of treachery and violence. +I was secure from savages. This indeed was luxury. I +slept soundly, vying in the profundity of slumber with +the immortal seven, till late in the morning. Daylight +at length had dispossessed the darkness of every part of the +interior, and I awoke. It was no dream. I was indeed +free. Rude but unmistakable evidences of civilization +surrounded me. The adventures of the preceding day +flashed vividly on my hitherto clouded mind,—the suspense, +the struggle, the seasonable rescue, the rejoicing welcome, +the spontaneous and subduing kindnesses,—and a +warm gush of tender and grateful emotion from my inmost +soul thrilled and suffused my whole being. While these +emotions were subsiding from the fervor of their first impulse, +and the mind was gliding away into a delicious and +confused revery, wherein all manner of delight seemed to +encircle me as with an atmosphere, in whose genial glow +all past suffering existed only for the heightening of present +enjoyment, the trap-door overhead was lifted, and my +generous friends dropped down with a hearty salutation. +I sprang from my couch, as good as new, and +younger than ever. A cheerful coal-fire was soon burning +in the grate, the room was swept, breakfast was brought in +and despatched, the bell rang, and the men issued forth to +their daily labors, while I went out to explore my new +abode.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> + +<p>The island is low and flat, and at high water its surface +is only eight or ten feet above the water-line; but the tide +here rises and falls about the same height as at the eastern +mouth of the Straits of Magellan,—nearly forty-two feet. +Within twenty-five feet of our house was a small store-house +and shed, a hog-sty, and a large stone oven. About +the same distance further on, was a house for workmen, +framed of timber, and roofed and laid up at the sides +with bushes; and the sides were banked and the roof coated +with earth, an old sail forming the topmost and outermost +feature of the edifice,—except that on one extremity of the +roof a headless barrel communicated with the fireplace, +and did duty very respectably as chimney and ventilator. +There were no windows; the men, and whatever portion of +light and air sufficed them, found ingress and egress through +a door in one end. It was most evidently made for use, not +for show; but appeared to be very comfortable, and was +neatly fitted up with berths and benches, a table and cooking +apparatus. Its occupants were eight in number,—three +Frenchmen, two Spaniards, an Englishman, a Welshman +and an Irishman; so that, the island having adopted +(for a season, at least) a representative of the “universal +Yankee nation,” may be thought to have brought together +samples from a pretty considerable part of mankind.</p> + +<p>Besides these human specimens, the settlement boasted +of a dog, two mature porkers, and a litter of pigs. Near the +house was a large heap of guano, prepared and ready for +shipping to England and the United States. The men were +at work hard by digging it up. It lies on the surface of +the ground to a depth of from one to three feet; is dug up +and conveyed in barrows to a cleared spot, where it lies in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +heaps, to be sifted. Stones, feathers, sticks, and other +foreign substances, are carefully removed, the larger lumps +are broken up, and the cleared guano is spread out in a +thin layer; when thoroughly dried, it is covered up with +planks. The business was carried on by Captain Matthew +S. White, an Englishman, who had then been absent for +several months at Montevideo, whither he had gone to +procure vessels for conveying the guano already prepared, +now amounting to some fifteen hundred tons, to market. +The time he fixed for his return had expired a month +before my advent upon the island, and Mr. Hall was +beginning to feel very anxious for him, fearing lest some +accident had befallen him, and anxious for himself and +his company, also, as they had but a few months’ provisions; +the island was rarely visited by vessels, and their +only means of reaching any port, in case of extremity, +were the ship’s long-boat, and a whale-boat, both too small +to undertake so long a voyage with any hope of safety.</p> + +<p>The possibility that my late hospitable friends on the +main land might be led, by their high consideration for me, +to visit “Holland” in a body, kept us busy, during the day, +in making preparations to receive them with appropriate +honors. Mr. Hall, who was left in charge of the settlement +during the absence of the proprietor, observed that Captain +White had often expressed apprehensions that the Indians +would come upon the island, some time when he was away, +and murder all hands. My slipping from them in the manner +I had was not an event likely to dissuade them from the attempt, +or weaken their motives for making it. There were +two swivels in the camp, which we mounted upon wheelbarrows, +to serve as flying artillery. I ground sharp an old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> +whaling-harpoon, and fixed a handle to it; this was slung +over my couch; and a large sheath-knife, for use in case we +got to close quarters, reposed under my pillow. The Indians +were prowling about the shore, probably expecting to see +me reäppear among them, laden with the rum and tobacco +they came after, and which they had earned by boarding +and lodging me so long, and by the multiplied kindnesses +with which they beguiled the months of my residence +among them. It is likely they think, by this time, that I +have been gone a long time for it.</p> + +<p>Before retiring for the night, we loaded our swivels to +the muzzle, and fired them, to let our neighbors know that +we had the wherewithal to give them a warm reception, +should they see fit to make us a visit. We then reloaded +the pieces, each with a dozen or more large bullets, placed +them ready primed at the door, and covered the primings, +to keep our powder dry. We had six or eight muskets +ready loaded, enough to arm the entire garrison, with +plenty of ammunition. The dog was tied to the doorhandle, +to give notice of danger, and the door carefully +secured. Just as we were about retiring, Bose gave a portentous +bow wow! but, on going out, and taking a survey +of the premises, the alarm proved to be false. All was +quiet; and, with a momentary doubt of the sagacity and +discretion of our sentinel, we lay down with a sense of +security,—first taking the axe into the house, thinking +that the cunning rogues might try to burn us out, should +they find the efforts to dislodge us otherwise ineffectual. +With this final precaution, our faithful sentinel chained +to his post, like a Chinese soldier to his gun, we were soon +sound asleep. The night passed quietly away, without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +any further alarm from our look-out, who was of the English +pointer breed,—a sleepy, dough-faced fellow, better qualified +to show the game than to occupy the responsible station +to which he was promoted. He was a great coward, but that +was not altogether against him; for, since the law of self-preservation +applies to brutes as well as to men, fear would +impel him to make some kind of demonstration on the approach +of foes, if fidelity did not; and one kind of demonstration +would be as useful to us as another, if only audible.</p> + +<p>After breakfast I walked forth, and cast an anxious look +through the glass to the northern shore of the main land, +to see if the Indians still occupied their position, and +whether they were building boats, or making any other +preparations for invasion. There they were,—the patient +creatures!—still posted in view of our quarters, the +English flag flying on the beach. There were several dogs +on the shore, and among them I recognized my own; I +almost fancied I could hear him barking. As we brought +no dogs with us, I concluded that they had gone back to +the main body, and got a reinforcement, with materials for +boat-building, and brought my dog for the especial gratification +of his affectionate master; and now he was capering +about on the shore, as if to call me back. Having sufficiently +gratified my curiosity in this direction, I turned +the glass seaward, in hope to view some approaching sail +but the broad expanse was clear,—no vessel to be seen. +On the river banks a few stray guanacos were cropping the +scanty, rank grass, while others, with their young, were +lying on the sunny slopes of the sand-hills. The quiet of +these animals assured me that their inveterate enemies, +the Indians, were not in the vicinity.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p> + +<p>Tired, at length, of this sort of sight-seeing, I returned +to the house, and, taking our guns, started with Mr. Hall +on a stroll up the island, hoping to shoot some sea-fowl; +but returned at noon, unsuccessful. The afternoon was +spent in wandering aimlessly over the island, killing time. +Walking about on the sea-shore, I picked up some clear, +transparent stones, coated on the outside with a kind of +crust; some of them are very hard, and, when broken, cut +glass like a diamond. I wrote my name, and place of +residence, on a window of our little cottage, with a fragment +of one; they are mostly white, some of them of a +vermilion, and others of a straw color; they are, I suppose, +a variety of quartz. The shore is, in some places, +covered with these pebbles to the depth of two or three +feet, on an average of the size of a walnut; the hardest +specimens were not abundant, but I collected about a +hundred of them. I might have picked up many more, if +they had possessed any special value.</p> + +<p>A further examination of the opposite shore disclosed +Indians still prowling about, and I proposed to Mr. Hall +to go over, with the men, and give them a sound drubbing. +Revenge, I know, is said to dwell in little minds; if so, +my abode in Patagonia must have dwarfed and contracted +my own intellect for the time being, for I must confess to +the consciousness of a desire to visit upon them some appropriate +return for what they had inflicted upon me. Mr. +Hall admitted the ill-desert of the Indians, and the entire +rightfulness of a severe chastisement; but, not having the +same stimulus to heat his blood that burned within me, he +viewed the question with a more strict regard to prudence, +and was altogether disinclined to undertake so hazardous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> +an expedition; he dreaded going any nearer to the savages +than was necessary. I would, myself, rather have +been shot than fall into their hands a second time; but +contended that the approach of the boat would bring them +to the shore, and enable us to do them a mischief from the +boat, without any necessity of landing among them. True, +the Indians <i>might</i> succeed in getting upon the island some +night, and effect our destruction; there certainly was +nothing to prevent it, if they had the least ingenuity, and +a moderate share of courage; but I knew them to be +a gang of arrant cowards, and the reader may judge of +their inventiveness by the preceding narrative. The subject +was discussed till late in the evening, and the needful +preparations and precautions were thoroughly talked over. +When about to retire for the night, we went out and looked +for our vigilant sentinel, whose due place, in right of his +office, should have been at the door. Recreant to his trust, +the rascal had deserted, to take up his night’s lodging +with the pigs. He was soon hustled out of his nest, and +compelled to return to the door, there to be tied, as on the +preceding night, to the handle. His choice of such mean +company greatly lowered the animal in my estimation. +While fixing him in his place, we perceived a light on the +north shore; it appeared to be carried about from place to +place, and was at some distance from the Indians’ wigwams. +This had much the appearance of preparation for +a nocturnal visit from the rascals,—a symptom of boat-building. +From my observation of their habits while +among them, I was convinced that something extraordinary +was on foot; they were not much in the habit of +moving about after dark, with or without lights, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> +nothing but the pressure of an unaccustomed purpose could +have made them so enterprising now. We uncovered the +priming of our swivels, and greased their muzzles, to make +them speak in a louder tone of warning and defiance to the +enemy; they were discharged with a loud report, that +made the island ring, and must have resounded with effect +upon the hostile shore. The guns were reloaded, primed, +and mounted upon their carriages at the door. The lights +that had drawn forth this sonorous demonstration speedily +disappeared; the Indians, it was presumed, had taken the +hint, and abandoned or postponed their undertaking, whatever +it might have been. I well knew their dread of big +guns. When I attempted, at first, to persuade them to go +with me to Port Famine, the chief reason assigned, besides +the superior advantages of “Holland,” was, that there were +big guns there, which were “no good for Indians.” A +council of war came to the conclusion that there was +nothing to be feared from them that night, and we thereupon +retired.</p> + +<p>If our careful preparations seem to belie my expressed +belief of their cowardice, it should be remembered that +they had once fleshed their swords, if not their teeth, in +the bodies of some white men, and had held, for a brief +period, islanders in their custody; they were numerous, +and might so far confide in their numbers and strength as +to dare the attempt to wreak their disappointments fully +upon our heads. Our caution was reasonable, and, at the +time, was not excessive in degree. In the morning we +made a careful survey of the premises, exploring all the +sheds, and every other place where an enemy could have +secreted himself, but made no discoveries. We walked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +over the island, and examined the opposite shore; but perceived +nothing strange or alarming, except that the Indians +still remained in their quarters, and that their numbers +had greatly increased.</p> + +<p>The question of crossing over and driving them off was +revived after breakfast, but, after considerable talk, no +definite conclusion was reached, and I spent the day +wandering over the island, gunning and picking up rare +stones, occasionally surveying the coast through the glass. +At night no lights appeared opposite; and having made +our usual preparations against a nocturnal attack, we decided +that if the black rascals did not speedily pick up +their traps, and make themselves “scarce,” we would go +over and hurry their movements. Mr. Hall found his +loyalty stirring within him, in aid of revenge. He said it +was too much to see that blood-stained British flag flying +among such a miserable set of creatures, bringing freshly +before his mind the forms of his slaughtered countrymen. +This sentiment I was prompt to encore, and to enforce the +propriety of an invasion to wrest the trophy from their +hands. This was determined upon for the next day, unless +they should sooner relieve us of their presence.</p> + +<p>The day dawned with a cloudy sky and a thick atmosphere, +which made it impossible to see distinctly for any +distance. Towards noon it cleared up, and we discovered +that our troublesome neighbors were still there. We +thereupon set about the necessary preparations for a movement, +immediately after dinner. Arms and equipments +were appointed, knives sharpened, guns put in order and +stacked against the house;—the bell rang for dinner, and +we ate with appetites sharpened by excitement. But, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +going out, and taking a final look through the glass before +embarking, we observed the Indians catching their horses. +They speedily mounted their beasts, and rode off. Our anticipated +valor was soon cooled. They had slipped away +without giving us a chance to do anything for revenge, for +justice, or for the honor of the captive flag. On the whole, +we were not sorry to abandon the expedition, though it +seemed to me that our chances of security were not much +improved by their departure. They would be very likely +to lurk in the vicinity, and to return with full preparations +for crossing and landing upon the island. Perhaps their +movement was only a ruse to put us off our guard. Such +thoughts crowded my mind; but there was no use in +borrowing trouble, and I dismissed them.</p> + +<p>The men returned to their work, and I set myself to +devise some employment. I had become tired of idleness, +and offered to assist in the preparation of guano; but Mr. +Hall interposed a decided veto. He wished me, he said, to +make myself entirely contented, and as comfortable as +possible. But the sort of life I was leading was very +decidedly uncomfortable; and I entreated so earnestly to +be allowed to make myself useful in some way, that he set +me to make a row-lock for a boat, or a few thole-pins, or +some other trivial things, that served to occupy attention +and divert the mind. Then our cottage wanted a new +floor, and some alterations were found necessary about the +premises. When everything was done, and no more was +suggested, I was desired to go a gunning, to vary the +supplies for the table, or to take a basket and pick the tops +of the bushes for pickling. The bushes, which are evergreen, +have on their tops little clusters not unlike barberries,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> +that make a very fine pickle. Several jars were +filled, and furnished an excellent condiment for our +suppers.</p> + +<p>Time passed on, and the non-arrival of Captain White +made it drag slowly. I had thought to take passage in one +of the guano vessels to Rio Janeiro, or some other South +American port, from which it might be easy to obtain a +passage for California. In default of other occupation, the +large lighter, which lay up the creek, two-thirds the length +of the island, was brought down opposite the house for +repair, to be in readiness to load the ships when they +should arrive. Their delay threatened us with famine, +moreover, and it was beginning to be felt as a very serious +matter. To add to our troubles, the scurvy broke out +among the men, in consequence of living on salt provisions, +without vegetables. They had been recommended, as a +preventive, to make and eat freely of the pickle just described; +but, either from want of faith in the virtue of the +prescription, or because it was too much trouble, they had +neglected to do so, and now found themselves in a poor +plight.</p> + +<p>About the same time, as troubles<br /><br /> + +<span style="margin-left: 4em;">“come not single spies,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">But in battalions,”</span><br /><br /> + +Mr. Hall was informed by the Welshman, who appeared +very friendly, that Morrison, the Scotchman, was trying to +prejudice the Frenchmen and Spaniards against him, and +inciting the men to mutiny. The man had lived in the +house and been treated like a gentleman, and this was all +the return he made for the preference shown him. Sawney’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +goods and chattels were forthwith thrown out of doors, and +he was ordered to take his bed and board with the men. +He took this descent in the world very much to heart, and +when I talked with him on the impropriety of his conduct, +appeared quite penitent. I strongly advised Mr. Hall to +take him back into the house; for, though he had proved +treacherous, it was better, after all, to have him under our +immediate watch than with the men, as he might, in a +short time, infect the whole company. After much coaxing, +consent was given to his return, and he replaced his things +in the house with much apparent gratitude. He was told +that he must show himself an honest man, and labor to +undo the mischief he had done, if he had any care of his +personal safety; for should any trouble break out, and the +sacrifice of life become necessary, his would be the first. +He faithfully promised, and, I doubt not, exerted himself +to allay discontents and prevent any outbreak. With the +Spaniards he was successful; but the Frenchmen were more +turbulent, and determined on a rupture. They complained +that their allowance of food was insufficient, and threatened +to break into the store-house and help themselves. Mr. +Hall had served out their daily rations of meat, bread and +flour, by weight, according to the directions of Captain +White. The quantity I have forgotten, but remember Mr. +Hall saying that it was the same as is allowed per man in +the British navy. When the bell rang for work the next +morning, the Welshman and Irishman alone went. The +Spaniards said that they had the scurvy so badly they +were unable to work; the Frenchmen marched up to the +house, and peremptorily demanded more flour. Mr. Hall +met them at the door; and, in reply, told them that they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +had the same food, in quality and quantity, with all the +others, himself included, and that the allowance for the +house proved to be more than we needed. None of the +other men complained, and their complaints could not be +listened to by him. They had all that Captain White +allowed, and, if they were not satisfied, they could appeal to +him when he returned, which would undoubtedly be very +soon. Meanwhile he advised them “to be quiet, and do +their own business.” They left in a very wrathful mood, +not to their work, but to their quarters, and to idle away +the rest of the day in sauntering up and down the island. +They went on in this way for nearly a week, and at last +consented to return to duty, under a promise that nothing +should be deducted from their wages, which was given as a +matter of prudence. It was not thought safe, in present +circumstances, to strain authority over them. Nothing +occurred to give serious uneasiness, though the men were so +touchy and quarrelsome as to raise a slight tempest, now +and then. On one occasion, Mr. Hall had been with three +men up the creek, seven or eight miles, after fresh water, +which could only be obtained at that distance and boated +down to the settlement. While we were unlading the +boat, a row was kicked up between one of the Frenchmen +and the Welshman. Taffy, who was a thorough seaman, +when adjusting the ropes to the casks, was assailed by one +of the Frenchmen with some derogatory remark touching +his seamanship, prompted by his mode of “putting on the +parbuckle.” The critic attempted to take the rope into his +own hands, by way of enforcing and exemplifying his view +of the process; and the two were on the point of settling +the question in a summary fashion, in a spirit which it +required some effort to quell.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Indians still hovered in the vicinity of the further +shore, as the smoke of their fires plainly indicated, and we +were obliged to keep up our preparations for defence. +There was nothing to prevent them from paying us a visit +but their cowardice; and knowing their revengeful tempers, +and the tenacity of their purposes,—the long-lived malice +with which they were capable of pursuing any evil designs,—it +seemed not unlikely that, smarting under the disappointment +I had caused them, their resentment would prove +strong enough to overcome their timidity. In this connection +I had an unpleasant thought, now and then, of a hint +given them while we were on our way to “Holland.” +When about a mile distant from the shore, I picked up a bit +of plank, and somewhat rashly, in the impetuosity of desire +to contrive ways and means to get to the island, in case +the islanders could not be attracted towards us, told the +Indians that, if we could find two or three more of the same +sort, I could bind them together and make a raft, on which +I might be paddled over to “Holland.” I informed them, +moreover, what was the most favorable time for crossing; +namely, at the last of the tide, as the distance to be passed +would be less, and there would be no difficulty in effecting +a landing on the island. No additional materials presented +themselves, and the scheme was given up; happily there +was no need of it. But, less happily, it now occurred to +me that what I then spoke in my own behoof might be +turned by the Indians to theirs, to our no small danger, in +case a more earnest and vigorous search should disclose, +along-shore, more abundant materials for extemporizing +transport craft.</p> + +<p>Some of the men became so sorely afflicted with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +scurvy that we decided to land on the south shore and +chase some of the guanaco for fresh provision. Two of the +Frenchmen accompanied us. Just as we were getting off, +their countryman who was left behind came running to us, +with angry jabber and gesture, vociferating that one of +them had his gun. He seized it and was taking it out of +the boat, when the party dispossessed of it disputed his +progress, and a regular French fight of kicking and fisticuffs +ensued, which we had difficulty in subduing. At last we +got off, but discovered only a lone guanaco in a hollow between +the hills. We posted ourselves to surround him for +a shot. When he came out I had a fine chance at him as he +crossed the top of the hill, and made quite sure of him. +Unluckily, the flint-lock missed fire, and, before it was possible +to burn any powder, our expected prey escaped. We +cruised about for several miles, and returned home tired +and empty.</p> + +<p>The men continued their work, as usual, the next day; +but a storm was brewing. On the following morning the +Frenchmen marched up to the house, and demanded their +wages. They were told by Mr. Hall that he had none of +the proprietor’s money, nor any authority to settle with +them. Then they would work no longer. Very well, they +were told, they might let work alone, but their wages and +rations could not be meddled with on demand. So they +indulged in another season of idleness and mischief. Their +first revenge was taken on old “John,” the horse. On the +second day of their mutiny the poor animal was seen to +halt; a hamstring was cut. He was very fat, and was probably +marked by them for food, in default of fresh provision. +At all events, Mr. Hall ordered him, as he was useless, to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +so dealt with. The men’s rations were served out, and the +rest was laid up in the store-house for future use. “Horse-beef” +has a strong and singular flavor. I had become +accustomed to such diet among the Patagonians, though +never privileged to partake of so fat a specimen as old John.</p> + +<p>Not knowing to what height the mutinous spirit of his men +might carry them, Mr. Hall wrote a brief statement of his +affairs, and an account of my arrival on the island, and enclosed +them, together with what money and valuable papers +he had, in a tin box, which he buried at night in a guano-heap. +That would certainly be removed on Capt. White’s +arrival, or by some one else, if he never returned; so that +our tale would not be lost, even though we should not survive +to tell it. The desperate character of the men,—all but +one or two of whom, as we had reason to believe, had left +their country for their country’s good,—and the recklessness +of their behavior, made our situation rather ticklish. Our +fear of the Indians, moreover, was not laid entirely to sleep, +though all visible tokens of their neighborhood to us had disappeared. +By passing up and crossing the river, they might +approach us from the south shore, which was separated from +the island by a channel not more than half as broad as that +on the opposite side. The bank, to be sure, was steep and +muddy, involving the risk that they would be hopelessly +bemired in attempting to land; but this was a weak security +against them, if they were resolute enough to make the +effort. Nothing occurred for several days to break the +monotony of life. No work was done; the men received +their allowances twice a week, spending their time in wandering +over the island. The large boat needed repairs, but +they rendered no aid. We took advantage of high water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> +rove tackles, and, by the help of rollers, drew it up high +and dry on the land. When it was finished,—through +fear that the men might seize it and make off to some place +northward, thus depriving us of our only means of escape, +if our provisions should be exhausted before Capt. White’s +return,—it was turned over, and the sails and oars were +secured, as far as possible, from depredation.</p> + +<p>Old John was devoured, to the partial relief of the company; +but some were still badly affected with scurvy. Yet +we were afraid to go any distance in search of fresh provisions, +on account of the risk of finding Indians about. The +carcass of a guanaco, just killed by the dogs, was picked up +in time to afford a sensible alleviation of suffering, and to +replenish our rapidly wasting stock of provisions. Indians +without, discontent and mutiny within, and the possibility +of famine, together, would have made the island anything +but a paradise to one who had not so lately escaped the +purgatorial pains of a Patagonian captivity. The first of +these disagreeables, however, began to be less vividly felt. +We got tired of sweeping the horizon with our glass in +search of the smoke of their camp-fires, or other appearances +suggesting their vicinity, and gradually relaxed our +vigilance. Bose was released from his sentry duties, and +suffered to exchange such unwilling service for the society +of his friends the pigs. But we still took the axe into the +house by night, and kept our guns loaded. The boat had +to be launched once more, to go up the creek for water. +When it was unladed, we got the aid of a Spaniard and +Frenchman in drawing it on land, to prevent the rascals +from stealing it, by telling them that it needed painting, +which was true enough. The seine was next got out, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +see if some fish could not be had for the improvement of our +diet; but we got what is vulgarly termed “fisherman’s +luck,” and spread the ineffectual net on the gravelly beach +to dry. Grown desperate, at last, we decided that, Indians +or no Indians, we <i>must</i> have fresh provisions, if any were +to be had, and manned the whale-boat for an expedition to +the continent. We landed on the south shore, and succeeded +in discovering and bringing down a solitary guanaco. The +game was dressed, and we returned to our home in triumph. +The two following days were chiefly spent in hunting, +unsuccessfully.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the second day, having nothing else +to pass away the hours, I commenced repairing the lighter, +but had not been long at work before Mr. Hall came down, +with a smile. “Look out to sea!” he exclaimed; “Captain +White is coming.” I looked as directed, and saw distinctly +two sail approaching. A thrill of joy shot through me; I +thought no more of work that day. An examination +through the glass made them out to be a ship and a fore-and-aft +schooner. Could it be any one else than Captain +White? The island was not frequented by vessels except +for guano; but it seemed very strange to see a schooner, as +a vessel of that rig was not adapted to such a service. Mr. +Hall began to think it might be some of General Rosas’ +vessels despatched to drive away people engaged in taking +guano on the Patagonian coast. It had been reported, some +time before, that he designed doing so. He heard the rumor +a few months previous at Montevideo; and also another, +that the Chilian government claimed the country, and were +determined to hold it.</p> + +<p>The little schooner led the way, considerably in advance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +of the ship. As the vessels approached nearer, they presented +a decidedly Yankee look. We watched them with +intense interest, as they passed the shoals, and came up +with a favorable breeze, under a press of sail. Soon they +entered the river’s mouth. On passing the north point +the schooner stood up, keeping the north shore, and cast +anchor. It was evident they were not acquainted with the +navigation, as there is a large shoal running from the +upper end of the island nearly to the mouth of the river, +and they had sailed within it. On discovering the error, +she attempted to keep off, but, in so doing, struck the +lower end of the shoal. Mr. Hall manned the boat, and +boarded the schooner. She proved to be the Washington, +tender to the ship Hudson, Captain Clift, of Mystic, Connecticut,—a +whaling vessel, just from the Falkland Islands. +Mr. Hall promised to go on board again during the following +forenoon, and pilot the vessel into the channel.</p> + +<p>I went with him for this purpose; and, as it was calm, +the anchor was hove aweigh, and, with the boat ahead, we +towed the schooner across the shoal, which at low water is +plainly to be seen, but now, at flood tide, had plenty of +water. After getting into the right position, the anchor +was dropped, and we spent the day on board very pleasantly. +The weather held moderate till afternoon. The +ship yet lay off the mouth of the harbor, and made slow +progress upward. The schooner, the day before, being so +far ahead, had only daylight and wind enough to get in; +and the ship, finding she would be benighted, as the wind +sank with the sun, hauled on and off during the night, and +then lay with scarcely wind enough to fill the sails. A +smart breeze, however, sprung up in the afternoon, and she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +came gallantly into port, only repeating the mistake made +by the schooner between the channels; but got off at night +with the tide, and, after some delay, anchored securely in +sufficient depth of water. As she intended making some +stay in port, she was subsequently taken further up to the +proper anchorage, and was moored on the 5th of October, +having come in on the 4th.</p> + +<p>Captain Clift had been informed by the mate, who had +been ashore, and by Mr. Hall, of my misfortunes and +adventures among the Patagonians, and on the following +day sent a message inviting me on board his vessel. He +received me very cordially, and insisted that I should +make his ship my home as long as it should suit my convenience +to do so. I accepted his kind offer, first going on +shore, and communicating it to my liberal benefactor, Mr. +Hall. He at once assented that it would undoubtedly be +pleasanter to be with my countrymen. I could not leave +him, however, without endeavoring to express my earnest +gratitude for my rescue from a captivity worse almost than +death, and for the kindly sympathy and generous hospitality +that he had exercised for two months. In my destitute +condition I had nothing but thanks to give, and I fervently +hoped he might never be in a situation to need the like +kindness from others; but he was assured, that whenever +or however it might be possible to show my gratitude in a +more substantial manner, it would be my happiness to do +so. He begged me to give myself no trouble on that score, +insisted on my retaining the articles of clothing with which +he had supplied me, hoped I would come often and see him +while the vessels continued there, and I bade this noble +specimen of the true-hearted Englishman a tearful good-by.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER X.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A Christian ship-master—Cruise for whales, and for a California-bound +vessel—An outlandish craft—An American vessel—Passage secured +for California—Tempestuous passage through the Straits of Magellan—Warlike +demonstrations, with an inglorious issue—Chilian penal +settlement—Pleasing reception—Extensive coal-mine—Sea-lions—Mutiny +of the convicts, and awful fate of the governor and chaplain.</p> + +<p>Captain Clift cordially welcomed me to his ship, and immediately +tendered me whatever I might need for personal +comfort. I declined availing myself of his generosity, +assuring him that I could be comfortable with present supplies; +but he insisted on replenishing my wardrobe, silencing +all objections by the remark that I plainly needed the +articles, and that it was a part of our duty on earth to +give to the needy. Captain Clift was a Christian in precept +and example. He had daily prayer on board his ship, +and made his religion an inseparable part of himself; +something more than a profession, that did not expend +itself in words, but found expression in acts of kindness to +all within his reach. He had on board a poor sick Irish +lad, who was taken into the cabin, and nursed with all the +care that circumstances admitted. Had poor Mike been +his own son, he could not have done more for him. Such +acts, incapable of being traced to any sordid or selfish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> +motive, sprung spontaneously from his capacious heart, +full to overflowing with the milk of human kindness. As +the ship had been at the Falkland Islands for several +months, where they lived exclusively upon fresh meat, it +seemed impossible that there should be a case of scurvy on +board; but the captain remarked that the Patagonian +coast was the worst he ever visited in this respect.</p> + +<p>The crew, under direction of the mate, a brother of the +captain, were busy in landing cattle, swine, empty casks +and other articles, to make room on board for trying out +whales, in case they captured any more, for which the +schooner was getting ready to cruise up and down the +coast. The mate went in the tender on her first trip out; +but she returned, in three or four days, unsuccessful. A +second cruise was undertaken, but in a week’s absence only +one whale was discovered, and this they failed to secure. +A third and still longer trip was equally unsuccessful, and +they returned not a little discouraged. During this time I +had repeatedly exchanged visits with Mr. Hall, and felt quite +comfortable in my new quarters; but suffered the misery of +idleness, and of impatience at my detention, even among +such generous and considerate friends. Partially to relieve +the tedium of inactivity, in compliance with an urgent +request for some useful employment, I was allowed to +repair the ship’s spanker. But I determined that, on the +next cruise of the tender, I would take a berth, in the hope +of falling in with some vessel bound around Cape Horn, or +to Montevideo, Rio Janeiro, Pernambuco, or any other +port from which it might be possible to secure a passage to +California,—a land I was resolved at least to see, after +having got so far on my way, though so inauspiciously.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p> + +<p>The vessel was soon ready to sail. The evening before +our departure Mr. Hall visited me, and also came in the +morning, before we were off;—the whole-souled fellow! +I shall always pray for his happiness. Captain Clift +added to his other kindnesses by pressing upon me various +articles of comfort for the voyage, with a nice clothes-bag +to contain them all. I parted from them, heartily praying +a continuance of God’s blessing on them both; adding, +however, that it was very likely they would see me turning +up among them, like a bad penny, on the return of the +schooner. In truth, my natural buoyancy had so far died +out, that but faint hopes of a successful termination of the +voyage, begun, so long before, under auspices apparently +cheering, now encouraged me. We hove up the anchor, +hoisted sail, and steered out of the harbor and down the +coast, running off and standing in on the land, in hope to +fall in with whales. On the fourth day out, we discovered +a sail coming down the coast towards us. It proved to be +an outlandish-looking craft, from her rig appearing to be a +Portuguese schooner. We sailed towards her with a light +breeze, lowered our boat, and went alongside the foreigner. +She had on board a large crew of cut-throat looking fellows, +loitering about. We were not asked on board, but remained +in the boat talking with them through one of our +men, a Portuguese. They said they were from some place, +the name of which I have now quite forgotten, up the +Straits of Gibraltar, and were bound through the Straits +of Magellan to California. I suggested to Mr. Clift the +propriety of getting on board, and going to Port Famine or +to California. He said I could do as I pleased; but that,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +for his own part, he would feel hardly willing to trust himself +among them, in which opinion I concurred.</p> + +<p>Our Portuguese hand went on board, and talked with +the captain of my adventures among the Indians, and of +the occupation, &c., of our schooner. He was directed to +inquire for whales, and brought us answer that several had +been seen along the coast, some distance to the northward. +While this conversation was going on, a tall, hairy fellow +came up from the cabin, encased in a dark-colored cloak +having a red collar, and stripes of the same hue running +about the edge; a hood, or cap, of divers gaudy colors, +lay back on his shoulders, and another, gayly and profusely +variegated in hue, was perched upon his head. +Altogether he was a comical-looking piece of human nature. +He took a look at our vessel through the glass. In answer +to an inquiry through our interpreter, we learned that +they had passed, the day before, an American schooner +bound that way, which could not be far off. One of the +sailors passed some liquor to us over the side of the vessel; +it was sad stuff, and I could only out of compliment go +through with the form of drinking. While this little +courtesy was enacting, our Esau over-head was scanning +the horizon with his glass, and at length exclaimed that +he saw the vessel; we turned, and distinctly perceived a +sail making towards us.</p> + +<p>We soon returned to the tender, and stood in for the +shore, in order to cut off the approaching stranger; anxious +to meet her, I went aloft to the mast-head, where the +view was better, and kept the mate advised of her course. +When near enough to be watched from the deck, I came +down, as it was impossible she could escape us. Mr. Clift<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +offered to board her, and I accordingly picked up my +things, ready for contingencies; the breeze was light, and +the strange schooner approached slowly. We stood in till +it was judged we were in her track, and then hove to, with +the stars and stripes flying at the main gaff, as a signal +that we wished to speak her. Presently the same beautiful +flag was run up her main peak; on she came,—our +boat was lowered, Mr. Clift jumped in with me, and we +were rowed alongside, the schooner rounding to, and laying +by for us to come on board. Captain Clift announced +himself to the master of the schooner, who came to the +side to receive us, and introduced me. He courteously +invited us on board, jocosely remarking that we had a +good many captains for one vessel, took us into the cabin, +and treated us with the greatest civility.</p> + +<p>The schooner proved to be the Hopewell, of New Orleans, +Captain Morton, from Antigua, and bound to San +Francisco, through the Straits of Magellan. There were +two passengers aboard, an American gentleman, and a Portuguese, +taken aboard at Bahia. At Captain Morton’s +request, I gave a sketch of my expedition and sojourn +among the cannibals. “You were bound to California +when you embarked?” he inquired, when I had concluded; +“I am bound there, and, if you wish to finish your voyage, +you can go with me.” My mind was relieved; I almost +feared to ask a passage, but my wish had been anticipated,—my +request generously granted before it was +uttered. I gratefully accepted his offer; remarking that +unless my vessel had arrived in safety, of which I had no +assurance, I should find myself as destitute on landing as +at that moment; but that he could leave me at Port<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> +Famine, if I became troublesome. The “John Allyne” I +supposed to have been lost soon after my capture; I had +heard nothing of her since. He desired me to give myself +no trouble in that matter on <i>his</i> account, and exerted himself +to entertain us. As we were opposite the river Gallegos, +and could easily run down to Cape Virgin during +the night, Captain Morton felt in no hurry; and the +whaling schooner was very well posted for observation on +the coast, so that our men were well contented, and we +had a very pleasant social interview of two or three hours. +Finally, after partaking of some refreshments, I bade adieu +to my excellent friend Mr. Clift, and the two vessels +parted, to pursue their different courses.</p> + +<p>During the night, we worked our way down to the +straits. I sat up quite late with the captain; and, when +at length I retired to my state-room, fell soundly asleep. +The next morning we were nearly opposite Cape Virgin, +the north point of the entrance to the straits. We were +rather wide off the cape; the wind was ahead, and a good +strong breeze; we beat in at last, and anchored under +Point Dungeness. The Portuguese schooner was in the +offing; she worked up before night, and anchored a little +to the windward of us. We lay at anchor through the +night; the next morning we both got under way, with a +light breeze, which lasted, however, but a little while, +when the wind came round ahead. As we were passing +Point Dungeness,—it was not fairly daylight, and I had +not yet risen,—Mr. F., one of the passengers, cried out +that the shore opposite was lined with Indians. I hurried +on deck, to get a peep at them; upon looking, there appeared +a great school of seals on the beach; they seemed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> +to be standing up, and walking on their hind feet, so as +to have, in the dusk, very much the appearance of Indians. +With some difficulty we worked up to near the point +where the John Allyne lay when I made my unlucky visit +on shore, and came to anchor; so that I was brought back +again almost to the starting-point of this “eventful history,”—a +revolution suggestive of many reflections.</p> + +<p>The next day there came a heavy gale; the Portuguese +schooner had anchored on the preceding night, in the bight +of Possession Bay, further down. We lay heavily pitching +at our anchors till afternoon, when Captain Morton +determined to get his anchors, if possible, and run down to +where the foreign schooner lay, thinking it might prove a +safe anchorage. After much trouble in raising the anchors, +we ran back, keeping the lead going, and running at a +furious rate, under bare poles, excepting the head of the +jib. The whole bay was a sheet of surf and foam. I began +to think we had not much bettered our condition by removing. +We anchored abreast of our Portuguese friend, +but still dragged the anchors. We finally brought up by +securing some iron castings we had on board to the kedge; +the chain-cable was reeved through them,—they were let +down ten or fifteen feet from the anchor. The small kedge +thus fixed, with the weight attached to the chain, ploughed +to the bottom, instead of being lifted out by the strain on +the cable, thereby performing the service of one many +times its weight. Our little vessel rode out the gale, +which was of short duration; as the sun went down the +wind subsided. We had hoisted a small sail to the main-mast, +in shape resembling a leg of mutton, to make the +vessel ride head to the wind, instead of lying in the trough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +of the sea. The tide, running at the time strongly against +the wind, caused us to lie nearly broadside to the force of +the gale; but this temporary sail, supplying the place of +after-sail, caused the craft to lie more steadily. Just +before sunset we got our anchors at the bow, and were +under close-reefed sail, beating back to the place we left +in the forenoon, near the first narrows. We arrived there +in the evening, and again anchored; the next morning, +with a light breeze from the eastward, we stood into the +narrows, in company with the Portuguese schooner. Soon +after we had passed through the narrows, the wind came +ahead; we beat along, and anchored under Cape Gregory, +a fine anchorage.</p> + +<p>Towards evening we discovered something sitting upon +a high, abrupt sand-cliff, on the bordering shore; we could +perceive, by an occasional movement, that it was a living +creature. The object was of considerable interest, and +was closely inspected with the glass; at last it was pronounced +to be an Indian. The shore was closely scanned +in all directions, to ascertain whether there were more in +the vicinity; none were in sight, and we concluded to pay +the solitary a visit; but, as hundreds might be concealed +in the neighborhood, we armed to the teeth. Old flint-lock +muskets, rusty with long idleness, were dragged from their +hiding-places, and treated to a dose of oil, to limber their +aged joints; new flints were fitted to the locks, and everything +put in good order. The guns were heavily charged +with powder and shot; pistols and cutlasses, dirks and +bowie-knives, were all in readiness, and the boat was alongside, +manned by the sailors ready to receive us. Mr. F., +the first and second mates, and myself, pushed off for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +shore. We landed at some distance from the object of +our visit, that we might have a better opportunity to +survey the country around. Before the boat fairly felt +the bottom, the second mate jumped into the water, and +ran along the beach, until he could see that the supposed +Indian was a large bird. He raised his gun, and fired; +the bird came tumbling down the precipice, and, on running +up, we found it to be a large condor. The Dutchman +had broken his wing. We caught our prize and took it +on board the vessel, and were heartily laughed at for our +pains by the captain, who had been viewing the onslaught +through the glass. Mr. F. was teased by him many days +for the intrepidity of his charge on the poor bird, rushing +to the attack with a drawn sword in one hand, and a cocked +pistol in the other. We all felt a little crest-fallen, I +must admit, after having made such formidable preparations +for an Indian fight, to return with so inglorious a +prize; but, as none of my former tormentors could reasonably +be supposed to have strayed to this part of the +country, and I had no animosities towards other tribes to +be gratified, I felt, on the whole, very well satisfied with +the result. We measured the bird; but, as I was not +“takin’ notes” at the time, it is now impossible to give +its dimensions; it was very large.</p> + +<p>The next day we commenced beating under a head-wind +through the second narrows; but, when partially through, +it commenced blowing so severely that we were compelled +to return to our anchorage at Cape Gregory. The following +day we double-reefed the sails, beat through the narrows, +and anchored in Oazy Harbor. Here we went on +shore, and discovered traces of Indians; the smoke of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> +fires was seen to the westward. We roamed about on +shore for some hours, but found nothing to interest us; it +was all exceeding bare and monotonous. The breeze continuing +fresh ahead, we remained one day in the harbor, +spending our leisure in shooting sea-fowls, which were very +abundant. Once more we got under way, and anchored off +the mouth of Pecket Harbor until daylight, then stood into +Royal Road, and passed to the westward of Elizabeth Island +into Catalina Bay.</p> + +<p>Before passing Sandy Point, we saw several horses, and a +Chilian flag flying. We hauled in and came to anchor, as +we wished to procure wood and water. A large gathering +of Spaniards from the settlement came to the shore. Among +them I noticed a little man, handsomely dressed, with a +beautiful cloak, and a cap having a wide gilt band; he appeared +to be about fifty years old. A young man, of perhaps +thirty, of fine appearance, accompanied him. He was +dressed in military costume, blue trousers with white side-stripe, +blue coat with standing collar, and cloth cap with a +gilt band. These important personages were no less than +the governor and his highest officer. They were walking +along in conversation, and came down to meet us as we +landed, shaking hands, and asking us where we were from, +whither bound, and if we stood in need of anything. Capt. +Morton could understand the Spanish, when spoken, easier +than he could speak it himself. I therefore acted as spokesman, +and replied that we wanted wood and water. After +learning the quantity needed, his excellency gave his men +orders to cut and split the wood, and draw it to the shore; and +said that if we would send our water-casks ashore, his men +should fill them. In due time both orders were executed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> +and we received a good supply of these necessary stores. +We were then invited to the governor’s house. His table +was sumptuously spread, and we were entertained in the most +handsome style. He was a kind, gentlemanly man, and +refused to receive a penny for the supplies he furnished us, +but accepted some presents from the captain. The young +officer also treated us very politely, and hospitably entertained +us in his house. Our vessel remained here about a +week. Every day the governor sent us a large bucket of +sweet milk, and sometimes fresh beef. The place was a +Chilian penal settlement. He was about removing the colony +from Port Famine here, on account of the superiority +of the soil. The young soldier and the Catholic <i>padre</i> were +his principal officers. A part of the colony yet remained +at Port Famine.</p> + +<p>One day, while walking out with the governor to look at +the settlement, he asked if we were acquainted with coal. I +replied, pointing to Mr. F., that he had been an engineer on +several steamboats, and ought to be able to judge of <i>carbon</i>, +as they called it. He sent his men along the little brook to +look for some. They soon returned with several small +specimens, which Mr. F. pronounced good coal. The governor +said that the little brook led up to a large coal-mine, +six or seven miles back, and he requested us to go and look +at it. The next day he renewed the proposal, offered us +horses and a man to clear the way, and said the <i>padre</i> would +accompany us. I hesitated a little, suggesting that we +might fall in with Indians. But he said, and the priest concurred, +that there was no danger on that score, and we consented +to go. We accordingly went on shore the following +morning, and found horses in readiness for us. Mr. F., the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> +<i>padre</i> and myself, started off, accompanied by a Spaniard on +foot, armed with an axe, to clear away the obstructions in +our path. After leaving the settlement, we plunged into a +thick wood, on low, marshy ground, and followed a blind +trail, leading now over the trunk of a large tree, which our +horses leaped with difficulty, now across a quagmire, which +had to be filled with bushes to furnish a foothold, and again +was obstructed by an overhanging tree, or pendent branch, +which arrested our progress till it could be cut away. In +this manner we worked a passage for about a mile, when we +emerged into an upland region free from underbrush. By +this time, the thought recurred that it was rather imprudent +travelling unarmed in that miserable country, infested +by savage men and wild beasts; but I was in for it, and +jogged along with dogged resolution. The face of the country +became more uneven as we proceeded, tall trees were +numerous, and we caught an occasional glimpse of snow on +the hills. We soon reached a height at which there was +abundance of snow. Our guide strode in advance, his Spanish +axe swung upon his shoulder, calmly whistling a tune +to himself. As we were descending a steep place, my horse +suddenly stopped, and bent his head and legs to the ground,—the +saddle slipped over his head, and his rider instantly +found himself about thirty feet below, his head and hands +stuck fast in the snow, and his heels elevated high in air. +A little smart exertion extricated me from my uncomfortable +position. Our guide came to me, uttering maledictions +on the stumbling beast. Clambering with me back to where +the horse stood, he beat him soundly, and again girt the +saddle so tightly that I almost feared it would sever his +body. I remonstrated, but he replied that it was a bad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> +horse, and was playing old tricks. At the bottom of the +declivity I remounted; we travelled through the snow as +far as we could ride, then left our horses and continued our +way on foot. The snow was very deep, in places frozen +hard enough to bear our weight. A walk of a mile or more +brought us, with some fatigue, to the coal-mine. But +there was such a depth of snow that we could see only here +and there a projection of coal in the banks of the brook +which runs down from the mountains to the settlement.</p> + +<p>The coal was pronounced by Mr. F. to be of good quality +for steamboat use. Some pieces which we brought down +with us burned very freely, and emitted great heat. Mr. F. +thought it a great discovery, and had an inclination to +apply to the Chilian government for permission to work the +mine. The Buenos Ayrean government, also, I was informed, +laid claim to this desolate country. Forest trees, +of great size, both of hard and soft wood, appeared to be +abundant; and numerous streams of water are convenient, +which could readily supply water-power sufficient to manufacture +almost any quantity of lumber. A canal might +very easily be dug to the straits, or a railroad might be +constructed, so as to take the coal, with little trouble, from +the mine to the colony. The <i>padre</i> said that an English +company, some time ago, started to explore this mine, but, +on account of the great depth of snow, gave up the enterprise +without inspection.</p> + +<p>We returned to the settlement before night, and went to +the young officer’s house, where we were bountifully supplied +with refreshments, and had a very pleasant, sociable +interview, into which the priest entered with due spirit, in +respect both to the physical and mental refreshments. Returned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> +to the vessel at dusk. The next morning we landed +some goods, and traded with the people. The principal +articles purchased were cougar-skins, guanaco-skins, and a +few ostrich-skins, sewed together in the form of a cape, the +long feathers being extracted, leaving a soft, downy surface. +The governor asked permission, which the captain +readily granted, for some of the women to visit the vessel +and trade on board; and in the afternoon half a dozen or +more of them visited us, viewed the vessel, purchased such +articles as they wanted, and were then set on shore. We +spent here a day or two more very agreeably, trading with +the convicts and gunning in the vicinity of the settlement. +We had a little sport in trying to capture some sea-lions +that were gambolling around the vessel, but were unsuccessful. +We saw the skin of one that had been captured by +one of the convicts; it was black, covered with a thick coat +of coarse hair, or rather bristles. In size they were about +equal to the common bull-dog. They rise every now and +then to the surface of the water, to blow, like a porpoise. +We bade the governor, the young officer and the <i>padre</i>, an +affectionate farewell. Their kindness and courtesy had +made our visit so agreeable that we were almost sorry to +leave them. Not long after our departure, we were shocked +to learn that they had met with a sudden and cruel fate. +The convicts mutinied, and rose upon the officers. The governor +and the priest succeeded in reaching the opposite +shore, where they remained three days without food. They +decided to return to the settlement, and abide the consequences, +whatever they might be. The convicts bound them +hand and foot, roasted them alive, burned their bones, and +danced over their ashes! We had parted from them expecting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +never again to see their faces, but had loved to +think of them as still inhabiting that bleak shore, turning +it, by the magic of their cheerful temper, into a pleasant +garden, and warming it in the glow of their kindly hearts. +Their end was in such fearful contrast to their lives, and +did such violence to our remembrance of their virtues, that +the tidings affected us with a sense of personal loss, and +made that lonely spot at once among the happiest and the +saddest of my experience.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XI.</p> + +<p class="chap2">Port Famine—St. Nicholas’ Bay, and its inscriptions—Politeness of the +Indians declined—Difficulty of navigating the straits—A post-bag in +a bottle—An English steamer, and its humane errand—Exertions of +the British government to rescue prisoners in Patagonia—American +schooner—Celebration of our safe passage through the straits—Juan +Fernandez—News from home—A chapter of accidents—A trip to +Lima—Almost an adventure—Arrival at San Francisco—Journey to +the mines—A happy meeting.</p> + +<p>Our next stopping-place was Port Famine. We were +visited, the first evening after we anchored, by the acting +governor of the colony and their Irish doctor. The captain +and myself went on shore the next day, and made a very +agreeable visit to the officers, who treated us with much +politeness. We spent two or three days here. We next +cast anchor in Saint Nicholas’ Bay, a beautiful harbor. +Going on shore, we observed the names of a number of +vessels that had preceded us through the straits carved +upon trees, with the dates of the several inscriptions; we +added our own to the catalogue. There were some deserted +bush-huts, probably of Terra-del-Fuegans, who frequently +cross over the straits in their canoes, when fishing. +A small, shallow stream, of much beauty, flows into the +harbor; we rowed up it for some distance, gunning on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> +banks. From this point, several ineffectual attempts were +made to advance; but we were driven back as soon as we +cleared Cape Froward, and obliged to retreat to our anchorage. +Our vessel was flat, and could not hold on before +a stiff breeze, but was inclined, like a crab, to move sideways. +The wind having subsided, we made sail late in +the afternoon, succeeded in doubling Cape Froward, and +dropped anchor in Snug Bay; but, not being pleased with +our position, weighed anchor, and continued our course to +Fortescue Bay. In passing Cape Holland we saw a large +company of Indians. They paraded on the shore with +dingy flags flying, and waved skins in the air to invite our +approach; but we kept on our way without noticing them; +anchored, the next afternoon, in Port Gallant,—a fine +harbor, sheltered from all winds. We observed the wreck +of some large vessel, and conjectured that it might be that +of a French bark of which we were told at Port Famine, +which was run ashore and plundered by the Indians, who +murdered the crew. We were advised to keep a sharp +look-out for Indians here, which we failed not to do; but +none made their appearance. As we beat up Crooked +Beach, and passed the end of Carlos III. Islands, we discovered +a white flag flying on the Terra-del-Fuegan shore. +Thinking it might be the signal of some white people who +had been shipwrecked, we stood over into the opposite +channel, near enough to see Indians and their canoes on +the beach, ready to pay us a visit. We hove about, having +no desire to make their acquaintance, and anchored, +towards night, in the beautiful Borga Bay, opposite.</p> + +<p>The most difficult and dangerous feature of navigation +in the straits is the encountering of sudden and violent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> +squalls, which strike the vessel without the least warning, +and are frequently enough to wreck her in a few minutes +even in the hands of the most experienced seamen. We +found on shore inscriptions of California-bound vessels, as +before. On a branch of a tree overhanging a little stream, +we found a bottle suspended, containing papers. This was +taken on board, and its contents examined. Three or four +vessels, passing through the straits, had left memoranda of +their experience,—such as snow-storms, loss of spars, +anchors, chains, &c. Captain Morton wrote a humorous +account of our voyage, to deposit in this repository of curiosities; +and I added a contribution, narrating my capture +by the Indians and escape, with a request that, if it should +fall into hands bound for the United States or England, it +might be published. I little thought that it would bear to +my anxious friends the first intelligence of my safety. I +left letters at Sea-Lion Island, to be forwarded by the first +opportunity, which failed to reach their destination; but +this, bottled and suspended from a tree in the wilderness, +first fell into the hands of an Indian, who sold it to some +passing trader, by whom the soiled writing was deciphered, +and kindly forwarded to Smith’s News-room, in Boston, +and was published in the “Boston Atlas.”</p> + +<p>Our progress was slow, both wind and tide being against +us; a strong current set constantly to the eastward. At +Swallow Harbor, where we next anchored, we were completely +sheltered from the winds, except that which came +down from the lofty mountains, called by the sailors “willewaws.” +The scenery around is exceedingly wild. There +was a beautiful waterfall on the mountain side, the stream +probably fed by melting snow. We stopped at many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> +harbors as we passed along, most of them quite secure when +entered, but difficult of access. Half-port Bay, at which +we touched, is very properly named. It is but a slight indentation +in the land, and has a bottom affording very +poor holding-ground, covered with kelp; besides, it is very +imperfectly sheltered from the wind. While lying here we +had a severe gale from the westward, which produced considerable +“chop.” Our vessel dragged her anchors, in consequence +of their becoming foul with kelp. However, by +dropping our kedge-anchor, and loading the chains, we +succeeded in arresting our motion before striking the rocks. +We had a narrow escape.</p> + +<p>At Cape Monday, having cast anchor, we discovered, towards +night, a steamer on the Patagonian side, bound westward. +Our colors were set, as there were indications of a +dark and stormy night, and the steamer turned about and +steered for our harbor. This was a pleasant circumstance, +as the captain meant, if possible, to get towed through the +straits. The vessel anchored near us, and proved to be the +Fire Fly, Captain Smith master, built for an English +gentleman residing in Talchuana, and now bound to Valparaiso. +Captain Smith had his daughter with him, and +half a dozen passengers. We visited them, and were very +civilly received, invited into the cabin, and introduced to +the young lady. On hearing my name, she observed that +they found at Borga Bay a paper in a bottle, describing +the captivity of a person bearing the same name in Patagonia, +with an account of his escape. Captain Morton +informed her that I was the writer of that document. “Is +it possible?” she exclaimed; “then you are the hero of +those adventures!” “I certainly am the unfortunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +person there described,” I replied, “though wholly undeserving +the name of hero.” She expressed, as did all the +passengers, much sympathy, and asked many questions in +regard to the treatment received and the life led during +my captivity.</p> + +<p>Captain Smith suggested that I might be able to give +him some information in regard to two Englishmen who +had been captured by the savages. He had orders from +the Board of Admiralty to make search at any places at +which he might touch on the Patagonian coast, and endeavor +to learn something of their fate. I told him that I +knew something of certain English prisoners in that country, +and proceeded to relate what I had learned from the Indians +of the murder of Captain Eaton, and the capture and +subsequent murder of Messrs. Sims and Douglass; giving +the names of the vessel and the prisoners from information +communicated by Mr. Hall. Captain Smith produced his +letter of instructions, and the names and circumstances +perfectly coincided, except that the instructions described +the Avon as a ship, while she was styled by Mr. Hall as a +brig; an immaterial variation, as all classes of vessels +often pass under the general designation of “ships.” My +deposition of the facts was written out by two of the passengers, +and, having been read to me, I signed it, for transmission +to England. The English government, Captain +Smith said, had been at great pains and expense to obtain +information of those unfortunate young men, who belonged +to highly respectable families in England, and to facilitate +their escape. Boats had been sent out and buried in the +sand, and a great number of handkerchiefs had been +printed, containing particular statements of the situation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +the buried boats; these had been distributed to vessels +bound near the Patagonian coast, to be thrown ashore, in +the hope that they might be picked up by Indians, and +thus convey the desired information to the prisoners, if +they were living. In hearing what the British government +had done for its unfortunate subjects, I indulged in some +bitter remarks on the supposed neglect of our government +in respect to my fate, in leaving me (as I presumed to +think) to perish among cannibals, without making any +effort to learn my fate, or to rescue me from destruction; +remarks of which I had abundant cause to be ashamed, +when I learned what had been actually attempted in my +behalf.</p> + +<p>We could effect no arrangement to be towed by the +steamer, as the captain said his stock of fuel was too small +to warrant running the risk of being retarded; besides, in +case of accident, it would affect his insurance. We spent +part of the evening on board the steamer; very soon after +returning to our ship, a boat, containing two or three of +the passengers, drew up alongside, and a package was put +into my hands containing ten dollars, and a letter, signed +by the captain and passengers, requesting my acceptance +of the gift, as a slight token of their regard and sympathy. +While returning my hearty thanks for such a demonstration +of kindness to a stranger, I begged to decline the +money; but they urged its acceptance, and I reluctantly +gratified their wishes.</p> + +<p>All the next day we beat along, till we found anchorage +at Round Island for the night. On nearing the harbor, a +mast was observed on the rocks, lying partly out of the +water. I took the boat, early the next morning, to ascertain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +if it was attached to a wreck; but found that it was +loose, and must have drifted there. I knocked off the iron +band and cross-trees from the mast-head, and brought them +on board our vessel. At Tamer Harbor, our next port, +we noticed the wreck of a new vessel, lying well up on +the shore, her bottom badly shattered by the rocks on +which she had been driven, and both masts gone; it proved +to be the “John A. Sutter,” of Rhode Island. On the +opposite shore were parts of iron-mills, and other machinery, +probably designed for use in California. The shore +was strewed with trunks and chests, from the wreck; she +had been stripped of everything valuable. The cabin on +deck had been cut, and partially burned, by those touching +at the harbor. We fished up a bundle of steel rods from +the hold, which was partly filled with sand and water. +The vessel had been wrecked, as we afterwards ascertained, +in a thick fog, on one of the little islands off the western +mouth of the straits, and drifted back to the harbor, where +we found her. While we were here, the schooner Julius +Pringle, of New London, bound to California, came in and +anchored. The next day a fine wind bore us to Mercy +Harbor, the last anchorage in the Straits of Magellan. +The harbor is a good one; and we determined not to leave +it till we had a good wind, that would take us well out, +far enough to clear the islands lying off the north side. +We remained several days waiting for a south-westerly +wind, during which delay a pilot-boat, bound for the +golden country, came up with us. Our time here was +spent very agreeably; our passage through the straits had +consumed fifty-one days, and had been effected without +accident, though we had witnessed repeated tokens of disaster<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> +to some of our predecessors. By way of celebrating +our success, we got up a “clam-bake,” <i>minus</i> the clams, in +lieu of which we collected and roasted a quantity of muscles, +by burying them in the earth, and applying hot +stones; they proved excellent eating, and we had “a good +time.”</p> + +<p>Our mate, who was a sensible young man, of good education, +had two foibles; he was a decided grumbler, and, in +his conviviality, he was a little <i>too</i> far from total abstinence. +He had a particular dislike of a dog on board, +purchased at Sandy Point,—a thievish rascal, that always +had his nose in anything that was dirty; even the tar and +slush-buckets did not escape his attentions. On the evening +of the clam-bake, the mate was a little exhilarated; +and, having pulled off his pea-jacket preparatory to “turning +in” for the night, he seized Bose, mistaking him for +the jacket he had just dropped, and threw him into his +berth. The dog was not at all displeased with such comfortable +quarters, and lay down very nicely with his +unexpected bed-fellow. I observed the mate, the next +morning, sitting near his berth, yawning; his eyes presently +rested on the detested Bose; his feet were in quick +motion, and an unceremonious kick turned the dog out as +suddenly as he had been turned in. The incident afforded +us a hearty laugh at the mate’s expense, who became, for +the rest of the voyage, a decided temperance man.</p> + +<p>Tired of our detention, we put off in unfavorable weather; +the Pringle and the pilot-boat (whose name I have +forgotten) getting out with us, but we found it expedient +to retreat to our anchorage. A gale soon followed, which +prolonged our stay; when its fury was past, we got out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +and proceeded northward, for Callao. In passing the port +of Juan Fernandez, we saw a whaling-ship just putting +out to sea; we had designed to stop here for some supplies, +but concluded that we could better obtain them at Callao, +and held on our course. In our way to Callao we spoke +the bark Sarah, Captain Morse, from New Bedford, +bound to California with a company of sixty members, +of which Captain Morse was president. Our captain told +them that he had on board a man from New Bedford,—Captain +Bourne,—escaped from captivity among the +Indians. Captain Morse replied that he recollected the +sloop of war Vandalia was sent down to the straits in +search of him. Presently a crowd of persons surrounded +the captain of the Sarah, who appeared to be talking earnestly; +the bark was soon hove to, and several gentlemen +from New Bedford came to us in a boat. They seemed +overjoyed to find me alive and well, and made numerous +inquiries about my captivity and rescue. They informed +me that the Vandalia was despatched by our government +to my relief, with orders to punish my captors, if expedient +and practicable. From them, also, I gained the first information +concerning my ship and shipmates; it seemed +that the vessel, with the Hebe and the J. B. Gager, lost +their chains and anchors in the straits, and dragged out to +sea. The John Allyne, after steering two or three days +for Montevideo, to repair and obtain supplies, ascertained +that they had water enough aboard to carry them around +Cape Horn, the only practicable course, as, without chains +and anchors, it was impossible to enter the straits. With +the concurrence of all on board, it was decided to attempt +the passage round the cape as they were. They encountered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> +a gale off the Horn; and, while lying to, the vessel +was knocked on her beam ends. The second mate, Mr. F. +Crapo, of New Bedford, was washed overboard, and lost; +others were badly bruised, some narrowly escaping the +doom of the mate. The cabin partly filled with water; +but the schooner righted, with the loss of spars, sails, bulwarks, +caboose, and stanchions. She finally weathered the +gale, and arrived at Valparaiso, forty-one days after I was +left in Patagonia. Here the vessel was repaired, at great +cost, and proceeded safely to California. After the relation +of this chapter of accidents, I gave them a brief narrative +of my adventures among the Patagonians; they +returned towards night to their ship. The wind was light, +and in the morning we were still near each other; several +of the passengers came to us in a boat, bringing with them +a quantity of American newspapers. I found in them +notices of the disasters that befell my vessel, and the particulars +of my capture. The papers were lent to me until +we should meet at Callao,—a great favor; their contents +were devoured with a high relish, as they were the first +American papers I had seen since my capture. Both +vessels arrived safely, on the third day afterwards, at +Callao.</p> + +<p>In the evening after our arrival, I went with the captain +and Mr. F. on board the Sarah, and spent an hour +very agreeably. The passengers had agreed to take the +diligence next morning, and visit the city of Lima, six +miles distant, and they invited us to join them. Mr. F. +assented, but I declined, preferring, on the whole, to +remain on shipboard. The party were on shore betimes +the next morning, except Mr. F., who consumed so much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> +time in urging me to go with them, in which Captain +Morton joined, that he said the company must have got +off; and, unless I would accompany him on horseback, he +would have to bear me company in the ship; so, rather +than disappoint him, though caring but little personally +for the jaunt, I yielded. We went ashore immediately, +procured horses, and, having found our friends, rambled +over the city, viewing the numerous public buildings by +which it is adorned. We were continually beset by shrivelled, +cadaverous beggars; they posted themselves at +every corner, and besought us, by the Blessed Virgin, to +give them alms. The day passed, on the whole, so pleasantly, +and there remained so many objects of interest +unvisited, we rather regretted that it was not longer. The +diligence drove up to the hotel towards evening, to take +our friends to the port; we started for our horses, intending +to overtake and accompany them in their drive, but +missed our way. Some time elapsed before we found ourselves +at the gate of the city, opening on the beautiful +public road to Callao. As we passed out, we drew up at +a respectable-looking ranche; two young Spaniards appeared +to be the only occupants. With some little delay, +during which one of the two stepped out at a back door, +we procured cigars, lighted them, and were moving towards +the entrance. Whilst I was paying for them, my companion +got the start of me. As I was placing my foot in +the stirrup, twenty or thirty mounted horsemen dashed +through the gateway, up to the house. They were armed +to the teeth; their holsters stuck full of pistols, and I +could see shining blades protruding through their garments. +They had a desperate, lawless look, unlike that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +of soldiers or civil officers, and it seemed to me they were no +better than they should be. I thought of the delay in giving +us our cigars, and it struck me that one of the troop strongly +resembled the fellow who stepped out so quietly on our entrance. +I sprang into the saddle and gave my horse two or +three smart raps, under the stimulus of which he cleared the +causeway between the sidewalk and the road at a single bound, +and speedily overtook my companion. He had caught a +glimpse of the armed cavalcade, and we urged our horses at +full speed for about a mile, without looking back. On turning, +nothing was seen but a long streak of dust. We then +compared notes touching the armed men, and agreed that +we were best off at a distance from them. We made the +best of our way to Callao, which we reached a little after +dark, and found the captain delighted at our safe return, as +he had feared some accident, having heard since morning of +several robberies lately committed on that road. He had +been told that a perfect understanding existed between the +robbers and the people of Callao, who gave daily intelligence +of persons leaving the port for the city; and that +even officers of the government were suspected of conniving +at these outrages, if not actually in league with the banditti. +As yet, all attempts to ferret them out and break up their +combination had failed. Our description of the party we encountered +so far agreed with the statements of American +residents at Callao, that we were congratulated, and felt +disposed to congratulate ourselves, on our safe journey. +Neither of us was burdened with <i>plata</i>, and we had no more +effective weapons than our jack-knives.</p> + +<p>As a national vessel had been ordered to the coast of +Patagonia for my relief, I thought it my duty to report<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +myself the next day to the American consul, who was much +interested by the recital of my experience. The brig Ann +and Julia, Captain McAlister, of New Orleans, came into +port a day or two after. Captain McAlister said that the +Vandalia came into Rio Janeiro while he was there, shipped +more men, and sailed southward in great haste.</p> + +<p>Having obtained wood and water and other necessary +supplies, we put out to sea once more. I must not omit to +record the kindness shown, and the still greater kindness +tendered me, by the captain of the Sarah, and all the +members of the company. They offered me a free passage +and any assistance I might need on arrival in California; +but the generosity of Captain Morton had supplied all present +needs, and, with all gratitude for their proffered aid, I +was not willing to tax their bounty in advance. We stood +well to the westward before crossing the line, as only light +winds can be expected before reaching from five to seven +degrees of north or south latitude, when the trade-winds set +in. We had a passage of thirty-seven days from Callao to +San Francisco, which was in very good time, considering the +sailing qualities of our vessel. We anchored in the beautiful +harbor, February 19, 1850, one year and seven days +from the date of my leaving New Bedford.</p> + +<p>Any description of San Francisco would be altogether +superfluous, as her streets, even, are familiar in the states +as household words. I found, upon going ashore, letters from +those most dear to me, which had long awaited my arrival; +also one from a brother then in California. He stated that +immediately on hearing of my misfortunes he started for San +Francisco to see Commodore Jones, then on that station, and +endeavor to induce him to make an effort for my release.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +On making his business known, the gallant commodore +informed him that he had already heard of it, and had despatched +the sloop-of-war Levant for my rescue, in the full +confidence that the enterprise would be successful. When +I was telling the Indian council that flourishing story of my +consequence at home, and of the big ships and little ships, the +big guns and little guns, that were at my command, ready +to avenge any mischief they might do me, I little thought +how literally the action of our government, and the spontaneous +kindness of Commodore Jones, were verifying my +words. The sympathy manifested in my behalf by the gallant +commodore deserves more than this passing notice. +My brother also left a deposit of funds against my arrival, +if it ever occurred, of the probability of which he was in +some doubt; also his address, and that of another brother, +who was then at the mines. I could learn but little as to +the fate of my vessel, or of my effects on board, except that +she had duly arrived there, and, after much disagreement +and dispute among the company, had been sold for a trifle +above the costs of repair on the passage. This operation, I +thought, savored little of Yankee shrewdness; since we +arrived at a later date, with a vessel of about the same size, +age and value, at a time when shipping was in less demand, +and sold her for nearly three times the amount. I was +happy to meet many acquaintances, who gave me a hearty +welcome, and showed me kindness I can never forget.</p> + +<p>The schooner J. Pringle, from which we parted on issuing +from the Straits of Magellan, arrived in port very soon +after us, having touched at Valparaiso. Her captain said +that he found the sloop-of-war Vandalia at Valparaiso, to +obtain chains and an anchor, as she had lost one anchor and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> +one hundred and thirty fathoms of chain in Possession Bay, +and was obliged to double Cape Horn. She was to sail again +for Patagonia as soon as the damages were repaired, entering +the western mouth of the straits. Captain B. reported +my escape, and that I was safe on board the Hopewell, for +California, informing the officers that he parted company +with me at Mercy Harbor—intelligence that was received +with demonstrations of lively pleasure.</p> + +<p>Being unable to obtain any information of my personal +effects, left on the John Allyne, I left this mushroom city +on the third day after my arrival, and took passage in the +steamer Senator for Sacramento, at the moderate fare of +<i>twenty-five dollars</i> for a passage of a few hours’ duration. +I found this city of rag houses full of the indications of its +recent and rapid settlement. The streets abounded in mud, a +foot or more in depth. Here I recovered my chest, but the +trunks containing my clothing were missing. Our company, +it appeared, had broken up, and its members were dispersed +hither and thither in the mines, every man for himself. My +brothers, as near as I could ascertain, were seventy miles +distant, possibly removed to the Middle Fork of the American +river, and I decided to start on foot. Accordingly, having +purchased, at enormous prices, a pair of red flannel +blankets, thick boots, a rifle and revolver, and other necessary +equipments, I set out for the mines the next morning, +in company with two or three persons from the States. The +road was exceedingly muddy, but materially improved after +passing Sutter’s Fort. We had travelled ten miles, when I +found that my feet were so badly blistered that I could +proceed no further, and advised my companions to go on without +me. My feet were in fact almost completely skinned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> +After resting at a public-house till the next morning, and +encasing my sore feet in a pair of poor, thin shoes, I pursued +my journey. I made very slow progress. An ox-team +overtook me, the owner of which kept a house, or, more properly +speaking, a booth, for boarding and lodging miners, +five or six miles ahead. He kindly offered me a ride, which +I gladly accepted, and lodged with him for the night.</p> + +<p>My journey the next day was less fatiguing; on the day +following I arrived at Georgetown, where I found that my +brothers had built them a house and spent the winter, but +had now left the place, and removed to the Middle Fork. +The distance was twenty miles by one route and fifteen by +another. The longest road was considered the best, and I +followed it, lodging at night in a low grog-shop, denominated +an inn. A snow-storm detained me here during the +next forenoon. By noon it appeared to have cleared up, +and I resumed my march, but had not gone more than a +mile before it began snowing again, as fast as before; yet I +was resolved not to turn back. The snow, however, fell so +fast, and with increasing violence, and the road was so +wretched, that this resolution was somewhat shaken. The +way led through a forest of lofty pines, the land broken by +deep <i>gulches</i> and high hills. As I trudged along through +the deep snow, my attention was suddenly attracted to a +clump of bushes by the wayside, that appeared to wave to +and fro, as if agitated by something more than wind. I felt +for my knife and pistol, to make sure they were where they +could be made immediately available, placed my hand on +the lock of my rifle, and awaited in silence the approach of +my unseen visitor. Presently a pair of large, glistening +eyes glared at me through an opening in the bushes. Nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> +else was discernible; the form, and even the head, of +the animal to whom these fierce optics appertained, could +not be made out. But their gaze was fixed steadily upon +me, and I returned it with equal steadiness, if not equal +brilliancy and effect, without once changing my position. I +had heard of looking wild animals out of countenance, +and determined to try the experiment, before resorting to +any other decisive measures. After gazing fixedly at the +mysterious occupant of the thicket for a few minutes, he +turned and walked leisurely away, giving me only an imperfect +view of his figure. So far as I could distinguish +the shape, it appeared to be a grisly bear, though not of the +largest size. I was glad to get rid of so ugly a customer +on such easy terms, and went on my way rejoicing, though +it was a weary and desolate one.</p> + +<p>Being very much fatigued, I halted at the foot of a large +oak-tree, as the shades of evening were closing around me, +with the design of climbing it, and spending the night as +comfortably as I could in its branches,—the lodging that +I had anticipated might be the only available one. But, +after a few minutes’ rest, I roused my flagging energies and +concluded to feel—for I could not see—my way a little +further, before <i>roosting</i> for the night. The darkness of the +night, deepened by the storm, hid the path so effectually, +that the Yankee faculty of <i>guessing</i> was called into abundant +exercise. I trudged along, however, with dogged determination, +which was very soon rewarded. Half a mile had +scarcely been passed, when a bright light greeted me, issuing +from a tent. Walking up to it, I found it occupied by three +men, emigrants from the vicinity of my native place. They +cordially welcomed and hospitably entertained me, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +learning who I was, and promised me every assistance in +their power.</p> + +<p>The next morning I set out again, and reached the river. +I was at no loss to designate the spot where my brothers +were likely to be found, but a formidable barrier interposed: +a rapid and swollen stream separated us, just as we +were almost within speaking distance. I walked along the +shore to find a log or some wood with which to construct a +float; nothing could be found. It was a grievous disappointment; +my evil star, I thought, had not yet waned. +At the opposite shore, fastened to the branch of a tree, lay +a snug little raft, as if in mockery. I must spend the +night, it seemed, on the river banks, without food or shelter, +and within sight of my friends. Just before night I was +fortunate enough to descry a man on the further shore, who +appeared to be on the look-out for some one, and hailed him. +He answered, and forthwith took me over. I was soon in +the presence of my two brothers, neither of whom at first +recognized me. It was a happy meeting, and on their part +wholly unexpected, as they had given me up for lost. +After many congratulations and innumerable questions, +rapidly interchanged, I mentioned the difficulty I had in +making the last stage of the journey to them,—the passage +of the river. They said that they were on the look-out that +evening for one of their number: otherwise, I might have +staid there a week without attracting the attention of anybody. +They congratulated me on my ill success in searching +for a log, or the materials to construct a float. The +attempt to cross would have been extremely hazardous, and +very likely fatal. The river was full of rapids, eccentric +currents, and other perils, making it at all times difficult to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> +cross, with the best facilities that could be commanded. +Of all this I had ample confirmation in no long time after. +Two men started to paddle themselves over in a canoe at +the same place. Before they reached the opposite shore, +their canoe was borne down the stream into the rapids, and +dashed to pieces against the rocks. One of them was +drowned; the other caught the top of a small tree just +before reaching the rapids. By collecting all the ropes and +lines we could find, attaching a stone to one end and throwing +it within his reach, the means of rescue, after several +trials, were put into his power. Such was the roar of the +waters we could not speak in tones audible by him, but +made signs to him to secure the rope about his body, and he +was drawn to the shore in safety. A similar accident afterwards +happened to one of my brothers, in attempting to +cross with another man upon a raft. The swift current +drifted them within the power of the rapids, and it was only +by the greatest exertions that they escaped the boiling abyss +below.</p> + +<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span></p> +<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XII.</p> + +<p class="chap2">A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result—Perils of waters—Sickness +and bereavement—Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco—Voyage +homeward—Imposition on shipboard—Panama—Havana—Home—Concluding +observations—Practicability of Christian missions +in Patagonia considered.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at the mines, I found my brothers engaged +in a company of twenty men, organized for the +purpose of tunnelling a mountain ridge, and digging a +raceway at its base, with a view to dam the river and +turn it through the tunnel. By this means the bed of the +river, for a mile or more, would be laid bare, and gold in +great profusion, it was believed, would be discovered. +Nineteen of the members were on the ground; the twentieth +was unable to come; and, though there were several applicants +for the vacancy, I was chosen to fill it. We +commenced operations in about a week. It may give a +clearer idea of the magnitude of the work, to state that an +excavation, twelve feet wide by seven deep, was made, by +blasting through rock (slate and granite) a distance of +over a hundred feet. The race was nearly half a mile in +length; the prices paid for every article of food were +enormous. Before turning the river, we let out the expected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> +field of gold to be worked by seven hundred men, +who were to give us one-half of the produce; there was +great expectation. The work was the greatest of this +nature that had yet been undertaken in California; we +had worked hard through a whole season, and brought it +to a successful completion, without any fatal accident, +though several dangerous circumstances had threatened to +retard its progress. Everything being prepared, the dam +was closed, the river rose,—pressed, as if angrily, against +the new barrier that opposed its wonted flow,—and then +sullenly explored the novel course that solicited its waters. +The dry channel was eagerly attacked; but, alas for +human hopes! it proved to be anything but rich; in fact, +it was less favorable for working than the average, and +the diggers abandoned the spot, leaving the company chagrined, +and greatly disheartened at their fruitless conclusion.</p> + +<p>I came very near being delivered from this disappointment, +and from all other earthly cares,—those of authorship +included,—by a hasty trip into the rapids. During +the intervals of our work, a young man of the company +undertook with me to construct a canoe, and establish a +ferry for passengers across the river. Our skiff, on its +completion, was carried by all hands to the river bank, and +committed to the stream, with all the ceremonies customary +on the launching of larger craft. A successful adventure +was made, the next day, with one passenger. On the +following day six miners applied for passage; I took half +of them on board, with their picks, pans and shovels, and +started with them. We had approached within ten feet +of the opposite bank, when a counter-current suddenly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> +struck us, whirled the head of the boat from the direction +of the shore, and, in spite of the utmost exertion, carried +us into the stream, and almost over the rapids. By a successful +manœuvre we turned her head up stream, and +paddled moderately till we had passed the dangerous spot. +At length, after a great struggle with imminent danger, +in the midst of which the passengers were praying and +crying for mercy and help, we reached some trees, standing +in the swollen stream. By taking hold of one of the +branches the boat was brought to, but with such violence +as to dash in her side; we sprang safely into the trees as +soon as the boat struck. Our friends on shore cut poles, +and extended them to us, by help of which we were soon +on terra firma. Our boat rolled over, and sunk. An attack +of dysentery soon after interrupted my work, but not for a +great length of time.</p> + +<p>After the failure of our river speculation, I spent some +time “prospecting” for a desirable “digging.” Before +one was discovered that offered much inducement, I was +again prostrated by illness, during which my brothers +joined me, with the mournful intelligence that my little +son was no more! These heavy tidings, at such a time, +proved almost too much for an enfeebled body and anxious +mind; it was the thought of my little family that nerved +my spirit against despair, in the darkest hours of captivity. +A blow <i>there</i> turned my strength into weakness, and my +weakness well-nigh into absolute helplessness.</p> + +<p>It would be too far from the purpose of this volume +to solicit the reader’s company through all my wanderings +for a year and a half in this wonderful country, to which +so many high hopes are carried, and from which so many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> +sad disappointments are daily borne. It is enough to say +that I had six successive attacks of sickness, the last the +most severe of all; I was brought to death’s door, and +had little hope of seeing home again. After a month’s +illness, my medical attendant advised a return to the +States, as soon as I could bear the exercise of riding. At +the earliest day prudence would allow, I was carried, with +all practicable care, to Sacramento, a city I had not seen +since I passed through it a year and a half before. Its +appearance was greatly improved in every respect. With +the increased supply of necessaries and conveniences, the +fabulous prices of eighteen months before had given place +to more sober, authentic, and matter-of-fact demands; +steamboat fare had fallen from twenty-five dollars to one, +and the crowding and shouting of runners compared with +the most active scenes of the kind to be witnessed in New +York or Albany. We arrived at San Francisco during the +night; as the day dawned, and the mist that covered the +town was lifted, the spectacle that met the view was like +enchantment; a compact and well-built city had risen, its +beautiful harbor lined with extensive wharves, spacious +warehouses, and elegant dwellings, fronting upon broad +streets, and all appliances of business and pleasure offering +themselves in profusion.</p> + +<p>I walked to the nearest hotel, as I was too feeble to go a +hundred yards. The friend who accompanied me, and took +upon himself all care of the voyage in respect to both of +us, found that the steamers were crowded to the utmost, +and engaged passage in a bark for San Juan del Sud, or +Panama. We examined the printed bill of fare, and +thought it would be very satisfactory, if its promises were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +fulfilled. I noticed, however, that the potatoes on board +were of bad quality, and suggested the propriety of raising +a committee of passengers to investigate the stores; but the +motion was overruled as unnecessary.</p> + +<p>We put to sea with about a hundred and thirty passengers, +many of whom suffered severely from sea-sickness. +These improved in a few days, and began to feel like +eating; but, to their consternation, instead of wholesome +provisions and fresh water, nothing was to be had but +spoiled meat, and water that was unfit to drink, having +been put up in old beer-casks and become tainted,—and a +short allowance of that. We were stinted to three pints a +day each for drinking and culinary purposes. The only +wholesome and eatable articles of food were pork, bread +and dried apples. Tea and coffee were too wretched to be +used. Those wiseacres who had so summarily declined any +examination of the provisions before starting now came to +me with very long faces, confessing their error when it was +too late to be remedied. For forty-eight days they languished +on this miserable fare. There were many quarrels +and contentions on board, growing out of these difficulties, +and some cases of sickness. We buried two men at sea +and one the day after our arrival in port; and the whole +company, in fact, were little better than skeletons when +they reached San Juan. As to myself, my appetite craved +but little food, and the sea air agreed so well with me that +I had almost recovered on arrival there.</p> + +<p>We mounted mules on the following day, and crossed to +Lake Nicaragua, which we reached just too late for the +steamer. Some of the company went up the lake and procured +small sail to take them across, but I decided to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +remain till the arrival of another regular steamer from San +Francisco. This detained us two weeks, when we proceeded +to Georgetown, on the Atlantic shore, and took +passage on board the steamer Daniel Webster, for New +York, <i>via</i> Havana. As we passed out of the harbor a +salute was fired for the United States steamer Saranac, +then visiting that port to investigate the affair of the +British brig Express firing into one of our steamers a short +time before, on account of a refusal to pay certain port +charges. When fairly outside the bar, the tables were set, +and the hungry passengers had begun fortifying their +stomachs with eager emulation, when I perceived a commotion +among the officers and men betokening something +wrong. Presently the head pump was working lively, and +the men appeared, running with buckets of water. To the +questions rained upon them they made no reply, but +hastened along in silence. The boat had taken fire, but it +was promptly extinguished before many of the passengers +suspected it.</p> + +<p>On arrival at Havana we anchored, after dark, under the +walls of the fort, and our fires were allowed to go out. +During the night a breeze sprung up, producing a swell in +the harbor, which rendered our position a dangerous one, as +there was not room for the boat to swing around clear of +the rocks. The passengers all felt extremely anxious for +their safety; but the fires were renewed, sufficient steam +was soon generated to work the ponderous engine, the +steamer swung slowly and safely around, and we were safe. +The Spanish guard-boats ordered us back to our first anchorage, +but the captain replied that he was master of the +vessel and should put her in a place of safety.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> + +<p>The next morning we took in coal and started for New +York. I was seized, on the following day, for the first +time in my life, with chills and fever, but partially recovered, +under care of the ship’s physician, before arriving +in port. We made New York without accident, and having +spent two days in the city, the steamer State of Maine bore +me to my home, January 13th, 1852,—after an absence of +three years, lacking a month,—with a heart rising gratefully +to God for his many interpositions in my behalf, to +deliver me from the perils of the sea and the perils of the +land.</p> + +<hr class="short" /> + +<p>It can scarcely be necessary, for the benefit of any reader +who has followed me through the course of this narrative, +to add any remarks on the hazards of visiting Patagonia, +or the consequences likely to ensue in the event of shipwreck +on that desolate coast. The land is dreary, and it +were a sufficient trial of fortitude to be cast away upon it,—to +run the imminent risk of perishing by cold, and +hunger and thirst. But the extremest peril arising from +the poverty of the country is exhilarating, compared with +the tender mercies of the people. Rather than trust to +their protection, better hide from the light of day and gnaw +the bark of stunted trees for food, drinking, as I did, from +the briny sea. The dread which has deterred voyagers +from entering the country, or even touching the shore, +unless armed to the teeth, offering articles of traffic with +one hand and holding a loaded musket in the other, is no +more than reasonable. I do not know that the country has +ever been explored by civilized man. The officers and men +of the Adventure and Beagle, two ships sent out by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +British Admiralty to survey the Straits of Magellan in the +years 1826, 1830, 1832 and 1834, examined and penetrated +the country to a greater extent than any other voyagers.</p> + +<p>If the other tribes inhabiting the country resemble that +with which I was domesticated, it must be a hazardous +enterprise for missionaries to attempt the propagation of +the gospel among them. Even apart from this, the difficulty +of gaining a subsistence there must prove an almost +insuperable obstacle. The barrenness of the soil, and the +want of water, render agriculture a desperate resource, and +there is no spontaneous product of the earth to sustain +life. To live like the savages would be simply impossible +to men who have been habituated to the comforts of civilized +life; I could not have survived many months of such +hardship. Provisions would have to be imported; this +difficulty seems sufficient to discourage, if not to prevent, +efforts in that direction. When, to this, we add the +cruelty, the duplicity, the treachery and blood-thirstiness +of the people, I am unable to conjecture through what +direct agency they can be reached by the influences of +Christianity. Whether access to them could be gained +through their Spanish American neighbors, or by enticing +some of them, when young, into a more civilized society, +and so opening an avenue of peaceable and beneficial +intercourse, it is not easy to conclude, without actual +experiment.</p> + +<p>Since returning to this country, these views have been +confirmed, by the narrative recently published of the sad fate +of the English missionaries sent to Patagonia. Captain Gardiner, +and three or four Cornish fishermen, who volunteered +for this labor of love, were landed by a passing vessel somewhere,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> +on the inhospitable coast. So inveterate was the +hostility of the natives, they durst not trust themselves +among them; they were driven, in their covered barges, +from place to place; like their Master, having not, on the +land, where to lay their heads. Arrangements had been +made, before leaving England, to have provisions follow +them; thirty-six barrels of provisions, destined for them, +were found some time after, by a government vessel, at +the Falkland Islands. The commander took them on board, +and sailed for the place of their destination; upon their +first landing, traces of the unfortunate men were found; +and, on thorough search, directions were discovered to +look for them at another place. They were followed from +one stopping-place to another, till the grave of one of them +was found, who had died of starvation. The survivors +were traced to a spot where their boats lay on the shore, +unoccupied; at a little distance off lay their bodies, unburied, +their bones bleaching on the sand. The humane +discoverers buried their remains. On lifting a stone from +the mouth of a cave, there was disclosed a narrative of +their sufferings, and of successive deaths, written by Captain +Gardiner; at the date of the last entry he had not +tasted food for four days. In all probability, he shared +the fate of his brethren,—starvation,—and with him closed +their melancholy history. A sad tale! Yet there were +days and weeks when I would have gladly exchanged my +lot for wanderings like theirs, upon the desert shore. But +from those horrors I was mercifully delivered; they, in +the prosecution of a sacred and benevolent errand, were +cut down by the dispensation of Him who seeth not as +man seeth.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span></p> + +<p>It may occur to some reader that the deceptions I practised +upon the natives, as frankly narrated, had a tendency +to impair their confidence in white men, and thus to increase +the difficulty of reaching them by Christian influences, +and to render the lot of any poor man hereafter +falling into their hands more desperate than it would +otherwise be. Perhaps so; yet the danger does not seem +so imminent, when we consider that they are entire +strangers to truth. Probably no Patagonian’s experience +or observation could furnish an example of consistent +veracity, and they would not be likely to suspect the existence +of such a virtue in any one. It is apparent, from +their behavior in the “last scene of all” with me, that +from first to last they vehemently mistrusted my statements; +and their most likely comment on the report of +the chief must have been, “I told you so.” The shock +was less than if they had reposed a more generous confidence.</p> + +<p>The notoriety which was given to my capture by the +newspaper press called forth many expressions of sympathy +from persons who knew nothing of me, except that +I was a fellow-being in distress. To all such I tender my +thanks. It is a grateful duty, in parting company with +the reader, to renew the expression of thankful remembrance +with which I recall the benefactors who, under God, +rescued and befriended me,—Mr. Hall, and the noble-hearted +captains, who fed and clothed me when hungry and +naked, and conveyed me gratuitously to my destination. +Nor can I forget the prompt action of the Honorable +Secretary of the Navy, the efficient exertions of the officers +of the Vandalia, or the generosity of Commodore Jones.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> +I would also acknowledge, with the liveliest gratitude, my +obligations to the Hon. Daniel Webster,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">*</a> the Hon. R. C. +Winthrop, the Hon. George Evans, of Maine, and to the +Hon. Joseph Grinnell, and the Hon. John H. Clifford, of +New Bedford;—all of whom, when informed of my captivity, +volunteered their aid, and made those representations +to the Navy department which resulted in the +despatch of the Vandalia on her humane mission. Nor +must I omit to add my thanks to Mr. Denison, who kindly +bore their memorials to Washington, and laid them before +the department. If I acquired nothing more by my +unlooked-for experience, I at least gained a warmer patriotism, +and a profounder sense of the benignant wisdom +of Providence.</p> +<hr class="foot" /> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">*</span></a> Since this was written he has passed beyond the reach of my thanks; +but this fact cannot suppress the utterance of gratitude which I owe to +his august memory.</p></div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Captive in Patagonia, by +Benjamin Franklin Bourne + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA *** + +***** This file should be named 38408-h.htm or 38408-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/4/0/38408/ + +Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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