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+Project Gutenberg's The Captive in Patagonia, by Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Captive in Patagonia
+
+Author: Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+Release Date: December 25, 2011 [EBook #38408]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: HUNTING THE GUANACHO. See p. 70.]
+
+
+  THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA;
+
+    OR,
+
+  LIFE AMONG THE GIANTS.
+
+
+  A PERSONAL NARRATIVE.
+
+    BY
+
+  BENJAMIN FRANKLIN BOURNE.
+
+
+  With Illustrations.
+
+
+    BOSTON:
+  GOULD AND LINCOLN,
+  59 WASHINGTON STREET.
+  1853.
+
+  Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by
+    GOULD & LINCOLN,
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+    District of Massachusetts.
+
+
+  STEREOTYPED BY
+  HOBART & ROBBINS,
+  NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,
+  BOSTON.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Book-making is so much of a trade, that it may be thought quite
+unnecessary to be at the trouble to assign reasons for embarking in it;
+but, as it is not my own vocation, it will be allowed me to say, that
+the deep interest which many, not only of my personal friends, but
+others whom I never saw, have taken in my fortunes, and the desires
+expressed, both verbally and by letter, to know more of my adventures
+than was communicated through the newspapers, overcame the reluctance I
+felt to undertake such a task. The interest of personal adventure,
+however, great as it might be in immediate view of the events while they
+were fresh, would not alone have been presumed upon as a sufficient
+attraction for this volume. But the strangeness of the country
+observed, and the deficiency of exact information concerning its people,
+it was thought, would make welcome any contribution, however slight, to
+the knowledge of this section of our world and race. After the
+contradictory statements of voyagers as to the "giants" of South
+America, there may be some curiosity to hear the testimony of one who
+has "seen the elephant" under circumstances that enabled him to measure
+its proboscis.
+
+My story is a plain one,--a simple record of facts, but not, I would
+hope, tedious. It offers no feats of literary agility for the critic's
+inspection, but a recital of human experiences and observations,
+sufficiently aside from the beaten track of life to have attracted a
+degree of attention which flatters me with the belief that they will
+repay a nearer and more minute survey.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading with
+     Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners by
+     them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of release
+     on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon              25
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad                                              47
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Reünion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians                   63
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring Fashion      78
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase                          100
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life                                      114
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists                         128
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia         144
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends              166
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain                                         189
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting              204
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered                                                    223
+
+
+
+
+THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading
+     with Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners
+     by them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of
+     release on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon.
+
+
+Among the early subjects of the "gold fever" that became epidemic in the
+autumn and winter of 1848-9, a company of twenty-five men left the port
+of New Bedford in the schooner John Allyne, A. Brownell, master, and B.
+F. Bourne, mate, for California. The vessel had been selected for her
+good sailing qualities, light draught of water, and general fitness for
+river navigation. In the haste and excitement of the time,
+California-bound craft carried out some rather motley companies; but we
+considered ourselves fortunate in the character of the men associated in
+this enterprise, and were organized on such principles of equality as
+seemed to promise entire harmony and good fellowship. Of course we had
+high and golden hopes, and our great object was to reach the new Ophir
+in the easiest and most expeditious manner. On account of the delays and
+dangers incident to the doubling of Cape Horn, it was determined to
+attempt the passage of the Straits of Magellan.
+
+We left port on the 13th of February, and for many days our time passed
+pleasantly, but rather monotonously, with nothing greatly to exhilarate
+or to depress our spirits. It was discovered, at length, that our vessel
+needed some running rigging. The more impatient were for going on, and
+making such headway as we could without it; but a majority of the
+company decided to run for the nearest convenient port, and replenish.
+We accordingly ran for Pernambuco, and anchored in the outer harbor on
+the 25th of March. The beauty and security of this harbor are
+remarkable. It is defended from the sea by a nearly perpendicular reef,
+extending three-fourths of the way across its entrance, with an opening
+of ample width for the passage of vessels to a safe anchorage. Being but
+eight degrees south of the equator, the town lies continually under the
+burning rays of a tropical sun. Its appearance is like that of most
+Spanish and Portuguese cities, abounding in high and massive buildings,
+with more of the castle than of the counting-house or dwelling in their
+outward expression, built upon narrow, irregular streets, that are
+constantly alive with men and beasts of divers colors and forms. Men
+from the country, driving their mustangs, mules and asses, laden with
+produce; wealthy and noble citizens borne by servants in palanquins;
+women bearing water in buckets, tubs and urns, which they balance on
+their heads without the aid of their hands, and walk off under as erect
+as so many midshipmen;--all the sights and sounds have a pleasant
+strangeness, that made our visits on shore highly agreeable. The
+churches, which are quite numerous, have nothing admirable or attractive
+outside, but the richness of their interior decoration testifies to the
+prevailing orthodoxy and fervor of devotion to the Church of Rome. The
+church is, indeed, the grand receptacle of the wealth of the country.
+Every _bueno católico_ of them, rich, or poor, will sooner stint himself
+and his family in their daily comforts, or even necessaries of life,
+than omit his due contribution to mother church.
+
+Our stay at Pernambuco was short, which must excuse a more particular
+description of its notabilities. Having obtained the articles we needed,
+we stood out to sea. Nothing occurred on our passage to the straits
+worthy of particular record. We spoke one or two vessels, and spent some
+time "gaming" with them,--the nautical phrase for visiting. On the 30th
+of April we made Cape Virgin, and stood in for the Straits of Magellan.
+In company with us, and bound for the same golden country, by the same
+course as ourselves, were bark Hebe, of Baltimore, and schooner J. B.
+Gager, of New York. We were becalmed off the mouth of the straits for
+several hours, and Captain Brownell visited the Hebe. He returned just
+before night. A fair wind setting in from the eastward, we all stood in,
+the J. B. Gager, as being best acquainted with the navigation, taking
+the lead. The three vessels anchored about midnight, within twelve miles
+of the first narrows.
+
+The next morning, it being calm, some of our men went on shore in the
+small boat, for a gunning excursion. They returned early in the
+forenoon, with a large number of sea-fowl. Not long after, Captain
+Brownell announced his intention to go ashore, and commenced making
+preparations. He soon changed his mind, however, and asked me to go, in
+his stead, to procure some fresh provisions, if they were to be had.
+Knowing, from the reports of whalers and others, something of the savage
+character of the natives, I felt reluctant to venture; but afterwards,
+to oblige the captain, I complied.
+
+Taking our guns, a bag of bread, and some tobacco, four of us started
+for the shore. As we approached the beach, a crowd of black-looking
+giants came to the water's edge to gaze at us. We did not particularly
+fancy their looks, and lay on our oars for a considerable length of
+time. A recollection of the many ugly stories current about the
+Patagonians, their barbarous and cruel character, did not greatly
+fortify our confidence, or make us especially anxious for a personal
+acquaintance with them. We accordingly lay off in our boat, and, hailing
+them in Spanish, asked them if they had eggs, fowls, and beef. They
+replied, in broken Spanish, that they had plenty at their houses. I told
+them to produce their stores, and they should have plenty of bread in
+exchange. We parleyed with them for some time, till our boat at length
+touched the shore. I stood in the boat's stern, gun in hand, endeavoring
+to keep the natives from stealing, and warned the men not to leave the
+boat. They jumped ashore, promising not to stray from the spot. The
+Indians offered some skins for sale, which I paid for in bread. While my
+attention was diverted from them by this barter, the Indians were
+coaxing my men away. I looked about, and found only one man near me. He
+was despatched in pursuit of the others, and directed to bring them
+without delay. The tide at this point rises and falls forty-two feet. It
+was now ebb tide, the boat was fast grounding, and, it being large and
+heavily loaded, I was unable to get it off. The old chief and several
+other Indians crowded into it, and once in could not be got out.
+Persuasion was useless, and they were too many to be driven. In short, I
+was in their hands, and became immediately conscious of the difficulty
+and peril of my situation;--my men gone, I knew not where, the boat fast
+aground and crowded with the savages, while nearly a thousand of the
+tribe congregated upon the beach. What was before me, at the worst, I
+could only conjecture from report; and nothing but evil was reported of
+the creatures that surrounded me. What could I do? A question easier
+asked than answered.
+
+After a long time, or what seemed such under circumstances that made
+minutes seem ages, one of my men came down, and asked permission to go
+to the Indian village, "a little way back from the shore," as they had
+been promised meat, eggs, and fowls. I ordered him to come immediately
+back to the boat. He persisted in urging his request, but it was so
+dangerously absurd that I absolutely refused. He then said he would
+inform his comrades of my refusal, and return immediately to the boat;
+but, for some cause, they seemed in no hurry to obey orders. Weary of
+waiting for them, and not without apprehension, I asked an Indian for
+the use of his horse, and rode with all speed after the fugitives. In
+the hurry of pursuit I inadvertently passed them, and tried to turn back
+my steed; but his inclinations were decidedly against a retreat. While
+our opposing impulses kept us stationary for a moment, I descried my men
+approaching on horseback, behind the Indians. When they came up I urged
+them to return to the boat. They persisted in going with the savages. I
+remonstrated with them on the impropriety and danger of their course,
+but in vain. Their mouths watered for the meat and eggs they were told
+of. Their cunning guides had completely allayed suspicion, and even laid
+to sleep their common prudence. The Indians kept on their course,--the
+men followed, and I felt at my wits' end. I rode from one to another,
+talking as industriously and as urgently as I could. At last I gave them
+peremptory orders to return. The Indians had plainly lied to us. Their
+village, they said, was only a little way off; and yet we were
+three-fourths of a mile from the boat, and not a house was yet in sight.
+Determined to go back, if I had to go alone, I turned my horse's head.
+
+At this point the mask was thrown off. The Indians seized my bridle, and
+arrested my progress. We all dismounted, with a view to retreat on foot,
+but before I could reach the man nearest to me the Indians had robbed
+him of his gun. With a mutual agreement to stand by each other in case
+of pursuit, we hastened our retrograde march, but had made no great
+distance when we saw the Indians coming after us. They rode in advance
+of us, halted in our front, and manoeuvred to cut off our retreat; but
+by various zigzag movements, or boldly turning their horses' heads, we
+made considerable progress. Our foes, however, knew what they were at;
+it was only a question of time with them. A sudden and decided movement
+indicated a crisis. I drew my pistols (a pair of single-barrelled
+ones), but before I had time to cock one I was jumped upon from behind
+by some half-dozen of these monsters. One of them grasping a pistol by
+the barrel, I pointed it to his head and pulled the trigger. It missed
+fire, and I thank God that it did! Its discharge would have certainly
+killed him, and would as certainly have been revenged upon my life,
+probably upon the lives of my comrades. This is easily felt and said
+now; but at the moment, when excited by the struggle for liberty, and,
+as I feared, for life, with such dreaded enemies and at such formidable
+odds, it was quite another matter.
+
+The old chief now came up, took me firmly by the wrist, and said, "Usted
+no bono! usted habla varmano por me casa, mucho, mala hombre currarhae!
+mucho montaro hombre!"--by which specimen of choice Spanish he desired
+to inform me that we promised to go to their houses, and now would not
+go; that we were bad men and liars. His peculiarly thick and guttural
+pronunciation did not make the dialect more intelligible; but I was in a
+situation where criticism would have been rather out of place, and my
+ears were quickened by the revelations made to sight. I therefore
+promptly replied, that if he would restrain his men from violence, we
+would go where he pleased. They, meanwhile, grasped their knives, and
+looked as if they wanted to use them on our persons; but the chief told
+them, No, _not then_; he would get rum and tobacco for us first, and
+kill us afterwards. Whilst I was thus engaged, my nearest companion
+discovered his gun in the hands of an Indian who stood not far from
+where I was struggling. Rushing suddenly upon him, he succeeded in
+recovering his piece,--more by tact than force, for his antagonist, like
+all the Patagonians, was very large and muscular. Then nimbly jumping
+aside, he told me to look out for myself. That was rather more than I
+felt able to do just at the moment. One Indian seized me by my arms and
+legs, some of them grasped my body, and others were busy investigating
+the contents of my pockets, and appropriating the same to their own use.
+And if he supposed himself able to show as much independence as he
+recommended me to, he was evidently mistaken. He had not elevated his
+gun to his face when the Indians were upon him, and wrenched it from his
+grasp. The old chief, all this time, held me tightly by the wrist,
+menacing his followers with his half-drawn cutlass, while I endeavored
+to bid for life and liberty. I told him he should have plenty of rum,
+tobacco, bread, flour, brass and beads, if he would carry us to the
+boat. At length he beat off my plunderers, and seemed on the point of
+yielding to my terms. He mounted his horse, and ordered me to get up
+behind him. I obeyed with alacrity, and fancied myself in a fair way to
+get out of trouble.
+
+But, whatever may have been the chief's original intention, I had not
+gone far before his policy was diverted. One of the most audacious of
+the troop rode up, and insisted that I should not be allowed to return.
+I was the captain of the ship, he affirmed, and if I were restored they
+would get none of the promised rum and tobacco. The old savage seemed
+struck by this new suggestion, and halted. We then dismounted, and he
+led the horse up the hill, ordering me to follow. I was next directed to
+sit on the ground and wait further action. There I sat, looking
+alternately, with longing eyes, at the boat, and at our vessel riding at
+anchor in plain view. My three companions were soon brought to the
+spot, and dismounted. And now began a more earnest negotiation. We
+offered large ransom, and after some higgling they agreed that three of
+our number might be released, but one must remain as a hostage; and I
+was pointed out as the one. I endeavored to have one of the others stay,
+and one actually agreed to; but his heart soon failed him, and I could
+see that he was using all his powers of persuasion to provide for
+himself. I assured him that I would use every effort in his behalf, if
+he would consent to remain for the present; but he evidently thought of
+the maxim, "A bird in the hand," &c., and was bent on making sure of his
+own safety first of all. Poor fellow! I cannot blame him for loving his
+own life, though, at the moment, it did seem rather hard that, after
+getting into the scrape by their own headstrong folly, against my
+entreaties and peremptory commands, they should extricate themselves
+from it at my expense, and leave me to bear the hardest of it! Very
+likely I might have done the same, if our cases had been reversed. And,
+even if one of them had offered to remain, it is very doubtful whether
+the substitution would have been permitted. The Indians too evidently
+regarded me as the chief prize, and were bent on retaining me as such.
+They insisted that I must stay while the other three should go for
+ransom, and I had nothing to do but to submit.
+
+Three Indians each took a man with him on a horse, and started for the
+boat. I watched them as they went, with feelings that I will not attempt
+to describe. It seemed but too probable we should never meet again. A
+sense of desolation came over me, at the thought of being left alone in
+the power of these savages, of whose treachery and cunning I had
+already had such ample experience, and of whose cruelty I had heard so
+much. I felt that I was beyond the aid, if not cut off from the
+sympathy, of my associates. The falseness of the Indians to all their
+engagements, as I afterwards learned, was signally displayed towards my
+more fortunate comrades. They evidently had no intention of releasing
+any of us. Before reaching the boat, they halted, and refused to go any
+further, or allow our men to leave them. The prisoners, however,
+struggled desperately, and at length got clear of their captors. One
+rushed up to his neck in water, the others sprang into the boat, pushed
+off, and rescued him as he was struggling with the waves. They reached
+the schooner, told their tale, and represented my desperate situation.
+All hands commenced breaking up cargo, to get at the rum and tobacco for
+my ransom. Two boats were forthwith manned, provided with the required
+articles, and with plenty of arms and ammunition, and started for the
+shore. They got to the land a little before dark, and pulled into a
+cove, or slight indentation of the beach.
+
+On catching sight of them, I desired the Indians to conduct me to the
+shore, and receive the ransom. But this they declined. They ordered me
+to the summit of an eminence near by, there to beckon the men to come
+ashore. An old skin was given me to wave as a signal. Perceiving that I
+was to be used as a decoy to lure the others into their treacherous
+snare, and secure them all as prisoners, I protested against this new
+breach of faith, and assured them that our men would not leave their
+boat, but that, if they wanted any rum and tobacco, they must take me to
+the shore. To this, after a long palaver, and with visible reluctance,
+they assented. The old chief ordered me to mount his horse,--this time
+reversing our relative positions; he made me sit on the rude apology for
+a saddle and guide the horse, while he took his seat behind, clasping
+both arms tightly around my body, and spurring his old nag forward. Thus
+mounted, and wondering what would be the next trick of the savages, I
+was conveyed to the shore, near the spot where the boats lay off on
+their oars. Driving as near them as possible, I hailed the men,--told
+them by no means to fire on the Indians, but to give them all they had
+promised. They asked what they should do with the articles. I turned to
+the chief, told him what the boats had brought, and once more asked if
+it was a satisfactory ransom. He said, Yes; if those articles were laid
+down, I should be released. But he was plainly resolved to have his pay
+in advance; he distrusted us too much to let me go first; and I need not
+say that my confidence in him was far from implicit. But, "Nothing
+venture, nothing have,"--I directed the men to put the things ashore,
+which they did. The Indians greedily picked them up, and I claimed my
+release. The old rascal said, "he had not got _plenty_ of rum yet, he
+must have a barrel." I insisted and struggled, but to no purpose. He
+kept a tight hold of my body, and when I begged that at least he would
+not squeeze me quite so painfully, he only redoubled his clasp. He
+obviously suspected, and I more than suspected, that it would not
+require a very great relaxation of his embrace to prompt a pretty
+decided movement on my part, for the effectual resisting of which the
+vicinity of the water was not altogether favorable. He now began
+spurring his old horse from the scene of action; I drew upon the bridle
+with my whole available force and weight; but the disparity between
+human strength and horse power, stimulated to its utmost by the spur,
+was too great. I begged the men in the boats to come again the next
+morning, and on no account to leave me, which they solemnly promised.
+
+I was now hurried back into the country five or six miles, and at last
+reached an Indian village, and was set down by the old chief at his
+wigwam. He gave me in charge to one of his squaws, who ordered me into
+the hut and bade me sit down on the ground. While sitting there, and
+casting an inquisitive glance around the rude habitation, my attention
+was suddenly attracted to what appeared to be several pairs of eyes in a
+dark corner, shining with a strange brilliancy. I speculated silently on
+the sight, much doubting whether they belonged to human beings or to
+wild beasts; but, on carefully reconnoitring, I discovered that they
+belonged to three huge women. Further investigations disclosed a number
+of dark-skinned boys and girls, of divers ages and sizes, playing and
+capering about the premises, in a state of perfect nudity. It took a
+considerable time to make out these, or any other objects, distinctly,
+owing to the darkness of the hut. Presently the chief, the patriarch of
+the tribe, entered his habitation, and began a conversation, in his
+peculiar dialect, with his wives. He spoke in a low, guttural tone, in
+words the purport of which I could not gather. I was in no mood for
+conversation, but would have been much gratified by learning his version
+of the day's "stroke of business."
+
+And now a few dry sticks and a bunch of dry grass were brought, mine
+host drew from a convenient repository a brass tinder-box, with a stone
+and a piece of steel, and soon produced a blaze that brilliantly
+illuminated the scene. By its light I was enabled to survey the first
+specimen of Patagonian architecture that had blessed my vision. It was
+constructed in a _pointed_ style, though not very aspiring, consisting
+of a row of stakes about eight feet high, each terminating at top in a
+crotch, or fork, with a pole laid across them; two parallel rows of
+stakes on either side, about two feet high, with similar terminations,
+and a similar horizontal fixture; and a covering composed of skins of
+the guanaco, sewed together with the sinews of the ostrich, the only
+thread used by the people. This covering is drawn over the frame-work,
+and fastened by stakes driven through it into the ground. For purposes
+of ventilation some interstices are left, but these again are half
+closed by skins attached to the outside; so that the air from without,
+and the smoke from within (in default of a chimney), must insinuate
+themselves through these apertures in great moderation. In truth, my
+first survey was rather hurried; the first cheerful gleam had scarcely
+set my eyes on the look-out when I was fain to shut them against an
+intolerable smoke. In no long time I felt as bacon, if conscious, might
+be supposed to feel in the process of curing. No lapse of time was
+sufficient to reconcile my eyes, nostrils and lungs, to the nuisance;
+often have I been more than half strangled by it, and compelled to lie
+with my face to the ground, as the only endurable position. Talk that is
+"worse than a smoky house" must be something out of date, or
+Shakspeare's imagination never comprehended anything so detestable as a
+Patagonian hut. The chief and his numerous household, however, seemed
+to enjoy immense satisfaction; and jabbered and grunted, and played
+their antics, and exchanged grimaces, as complacently as if they
+breathed a highly exhilarating atmosphere.
+
+My meditations and observations were shortly interrupted by preparations
+for a meal. The chief's better half--or rather fifth part, for he had
+four wives--superintended the culinary operations, which were as rude
+and simple as the hut where they were carried on. And now my fancy began
+to conjure up visions of the beef, fowls and eggs, the promise of which
+had lured my men from the boat,--had proved stronger than the
+suggestions of prudence, and had made me a prisoner. But these dainties,
+if they existed anywhere within the chief's jurisdiction, were just at
+present reserved. The old hag threw down from the top of one of the
+stakes that supported the tent the quarter of some animal; whether dog,
+guanaco, or whatever, was past imagining. She slashed right and left,
+with might and main, an old copper knife, till it was divided into
+several pieces. Then taking a number of crotched sticks, about two feet
+long, and sharpened at all their points, she inserted the forked ends
+into pieces of the meat, and drove the opposite points into the ground
+near the fire; which, though sufficient to smoke and comfortably _warm_
+the mess, was too feeble to roast it. At all events, time was too
+precious, or their unsophisticated appetites were too craving, to wait
+for such an operation; and the raw morsels were quickly snatched from
+the smoke, torn into bits by her dirty hands, and thrown upon the ground
+before us. The Indians seized them with avidity, and tossed a bit to me;
+but what could I do with it? I should have had no appetite for the
+dinner of an alderman at such a time and place; but as for tasting meat
+that came in such a questionable shape, there was no bringing my teeth
+or resolution to it. While eying it with ill-suppressed disgust, I
+observed the savages, like a horde of half-starved dogs, devouring their
+portions with the greatest relish; seizing the fragments with their fine
+white teeth, at the same time clenching them with their hands, and
+giving every sign of enjoyment _except_ what one is accustomed to see in
+human beings. The old chief remarked the slight I was putting upon his
+hospitality, and broke in upon me with a fierce _Por que usted, no munge
+usted, usted carna? Esta carna mucho bueno hombre por munge, se hombre,
+munge!_ "Why don't you eat your meat? This meat very good to eat,--very
+good to eat. Eat, man! eat!" I may here observe that my knowledge of
+Spanish, like the chief's, was colloquial; picked up here and there in
+voyages to South American ports, which may account for my orthography
+being so plainly determined by the ear rather than by any rules of
+Castilian grammar. Seeing him so much excited, and not knowing what
+deeds might follow his words if I refused, I thought it expedient to
+_try_ to "eat what was set before me, asking no questions;" thinking,
+moreover, that if there were any evil spirit in it that the fire had
+failed to expel, it could not possibly have resisted the smoke. So,
+being sorely divided between aversion to the "strange flesh" and fear of
+showing it, I forced a morsel into my mouth. Its taste was by no means
+as offensive as its appearance had been unpromising, and I managed to
+save appearances with less disgust than I had feared. This was my first
+meal with the savages, and a sample of many others; though better viands
+afterwards varied their monotony, now and then.
+
+The eating being over, a large horn, that had once adorned the head of a
+Spanish bullock, was dipped into a leathern bucket and passed from one
+to another. Between the bucket and the horn, the fluid had gained a
+flavor not found by Adam in his first brewing, and, indeed, not far from
+nauseating. However, it seemed expedient to "conquer my prejudices" so
+far as to drink with the other guests, and the ceremonies of dinner were
+over; for which, "with all other mercies," I felt thankful, and turned
+to my corner near the expiring fire, to chew the cud of sweet and bitter
+fancies, in which the latter ingredient decidedly predominated. The
+strange and sudden desolateness of my condition, the doubtful chances of
+escape, the possible sufferings before me, the uncertainty that rested
+on the designs of my savage captors, all rushed upon my mind, and
+suggested to my heated imagination a host of terrors.
+
+These painful thoughts were interrupted by an order to prepare for the
+night's repose. An old skin, about two and a half feet square, was
+thrown upon the cold ground in the back part of our rookery, and
+assigned for my couch; I took possession accordingly, and the whole
+family bestowed themselves in a row near me. The stifling atmosphere was
+soon vocal with their snoring. My brain was too busy for sleep. Feverish
+fancies kept me wakeful. I revolved a variety of plans for escape. Could
+I steal out of the hut unperceived? Could I find my way to the shore? I
+doubted the first, and more than doubted the second; and even if so far
+successful, there was no boat to take me from the accursed land. And how
+could I conceal myself from the Indians till a boat should arrive? They
+would miss me; and, long before any possible communication with my
+vessel, would be hunting me down with horses and dogs. Not a wood or
+thicket had met my eye on the dreary waste I traversed the day before. I
+tried to devise some other plan, but none offered itself. It was this or
+nothing,--and this was next to nothing. Grown desperate, at last, I
+determined to make an effort.
+
+After lying some time, listening to the heavy breathing of the sleepers,
+and satisfying myself that none of the company were awake, I raised
+myself as noiselessly as possible, and stole towards the front of the
+wigwam. Casting a furtive glance backward, I could see that the old
+chief was restless; either he had feigned sleep, or some evil spirit had
+waked him just at the wrong time. To go immediately back would too
+plainly betray my purpose; so I walked very calmly and deliberately into
+the open air, and stood as if star-gazing; the old fellow, as I plainly
+perceived, all the time watching me from the lodge. In a short time I
+walked quietly back to my dark retreat, and found him where I had left
+him, lying very coseyly, as if nothing had happened to disturb his
+slumbers. Once more stretching myself on my uneasy couch, I lay two
+hours or more, still revolving the same unsolved problem in my mind. At
+length, all appearing to be sound asleep, I decided to venture a second
+attempt; and, in the event of failure, to make the best of it for the
+present. Stealthily as possible I crawled from among them, slid out of
+doors, and crouched upon the grass. Could I be mistaken? No--those
+infernal eyes were fastened on me as before! There was no eluding their
+vigilance. At this moment a howling as of a hundred wolves was heard
+approaching, and about that number of dogs came rushing, pell-mell,
+towards me. I scampered for the wigwam as fast as my feet could carry
+me, and in my flight stumbled over a stick nearly eight feet long. I
+seized the weapon thus kindly lent me, and, swinging it furiously about
+me, gave all intruders that came within my reach a sufficient touch of
+its quality. Thus defending myself from the brutes, I backed towards the
+lodge, glad to shelter myself among its detested inmates. The cunning
+old Parosilver, as before, had bestowed himself on the ground among his
+squaws and dirty children, and was, apparently, fast asleep.
+
+This was more than I could compass. Vexation at my fruitless attempts to
+escape,--dread, inspired by the relentless vigilance and quiet assurance
+of the chief,--tormenting apprehensions as to the issue of any effort on
+the morrow to effect my ransom,--all kept my brain upon the rack, and
+effectually drove sleep from my eyes, till near daylight, when I fell
+into a disturbed slumber. In my dreams I was at once transported from
+the savage hut, on board my vessel. Methought she was driving before the
+wind, all sails set, at full speed, upon a dangerous reef. All on board
+seemed insensible of the danger; I alone perceived it, but a nightmare
+spell was on me, and my lips refused to speak, my limbs to move. Rooted
+to my place on the deck, I stood in dumb agony, while our vessel rushed
+upon her fate. There came a sudden shock,--our bark had struck, and her
+total destruction was inevitable. Some of the men were dashed violently
+upon the deck, others precipitated into the boiling surf, where they
+clung desperately to spars, and fragments of the wreck. While the
+confusion was wildest, and the dream of effort for escape was subsiding
+into the calmness of despair, I suddenly awoke, and for some time was
+unable to comprehend where I was, or how I came there. If I were indeed
+shipwrecked, I was also, like Jonah, vomited upon dry land. I drew my
+hand across my eyes to assure myself that vision was unobstructed, cast
+my eyes right and left;--the lodge, the ashes of the last night's fire,
+the chief and his motley family, the door through which the "lubber
+fiend" had followed me with his restless eyes, and into which the fierce
+dogs had driven me, recalled my distracted senses, and restored
+consciousness of a reality which, at the moment, I would almost have
+exchanged for the wildest terrors of my dream.
+
+With the light calmer thoughts succeeded, and I once more addressed
+myself to the task of effecting my escape. The first thing was to get
+the chief with me to the shore, in readiness to meet a boat, and to
+renew negotiations for my liberty. Observing that he was awake, I began
+to promise him an abundant supply of the articles most tempting to his
+fancy, on condition of my release. He carelessly replied that he would
+go with me to the beach by and by. I tried to urge his departure, being
+anxious to go without the rabble at his heels the day before, but for
+whose violence he would now hardly be master of me; but there was no
+hurrying his movements. He took down his little cutlass, drew it from
+its brazen scabbard, and commenced sharpening it with a rusty file,
+trying its edge with his fingers as the work went on, and casting side
+glances at me the while. Whether this ceremony was the preface to some
+act of violence he meditated, or a scene for effect, to fill me with a
+wholesome dread of his power, I could not guess; but, determined to show
+no foolish fears, I thought it best to put a bold face upon the matter,
+and make an equally striking demonstration of courage and presence of
+mind, qualities which savages generally appreciate. I therefore
+approached him, tried the edge with my own fingers, praised the beauty
+of the instrument, and interested myself in the process of sharpening
+it. Following up my assault on his vanity, I extolled him as one of the
+best of men, and assured him that when we got to the shore I would amply
+reward him for his kindness to me; taking occasion, however, to throw in
+a hint on the vast importance of starting early. This I enforced by the
+suggestion that, when he got his good things, the fewer there were
+present, the fewer claimants there would be to divide the spoils.
+
+After much coaxing, he started after his old horse; I mounted behind
+him, and we moved slowly off. When we arrived at the shore it was
+blowing a perfect gale. A boat could not live in the billows. All three
+vessels had dragged their anchors, and lay at some distance from their
+anchorage of yesterday. Bark Hebe appeared to be dragging towards the
+Orange Bank, a dangerous shoal. I afterwards learned that the Hebe,
+after getting into water as shoal as would barely float her, slipped her
+cables, put up a little sail, and finally succeeded in weathering the
+shoal and getting safely out to sea. The J. B. Gager was dragging in the
+same direction. My own vessel was holding on better than the others,
+and I hoped she would ride out the gale in safety.
+
+I made my captors understand the reason why no boat had come, as
+promised; with which they appeared to be satisfied, and we returned as
+we came. By means of their broken Spanish, which they had picked up from
+sailors, and in visits to the Chilian or other Spanish American
+settlements, and by signs, amounting at times pretty nearly to a
+pantomime, I found myself able to understand inquiries or commands, and
+to make known my wishes.
+
+Early on the following morning we again visited the shore, and I looked
+eagerly toward the anchorage, where all my hopes of deliverance centred.
+Not a vessel was in sight! Whether they had foundered, or were driven
+upon the shoal and wrecked, or had dragged out to sea in a disabled
+condition,--or whether my shipmates, the gale having subsided, had
+deliberately proceeded on their voyage, and left me a prey to cruel
+savages and all the ills of this inhospitable shore,--I was unable to
+conjecture. I only knew that they were gone, and that I was left alone
+to the tender mercies of the Patagonians. No present means of escape
+appeared. The future, wisely hidden from my view, suggested none to my
+imagination. I told my captors the worst; that the high winds had
+probably sunk the ships, and all that were in them. At this intelligence
+they seemed delighted, and laughed immoderately, as if such a calamity
+were a consolation for the loss of their expected ransom. Their cruel
+glee could add nothing to the weight of my desolation. My past life was
+sealed up as if by an entrance on a new state of being. I looked round
+on a bleak and cheerless region, and forward on a life as barren of
+human joy, made up of every species of suffering,--hunger, cold,
+fatigue, insult, torture,--liable to be cut short at any moment by the
+caprice of my tormentors, and so wretched that death itself, with all
+the enormities of cannibalism, lost its terrors by comparison. Life, for
+any good or great purposes to be achieved, was over. And then my
+thoughts turned to far different scenes,--to happy faces, and pleasant
+voices, and familiar sights;--to hearts that beat with no dread of this
+day's calamities, felt no consciousness kindred to my despair, but
+would, in due time, be rudely awakened from their security. GOD help me,
+for I am helpless now!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad.
+
+
+Returning to the encampment, it remained to devise some new way of
+escape. Some four or five days' ride to the westward would bring us to
+Port Famine, on the straits, a penal settlement of Chili, and the only
+settlement in the vicinity by which I could hope to reënter the
+civilized world. A journey thither was suggested to the Indians, as the
+most likely way of turning my captivity to profitable account; but they
+refused with a promptness and decisiveness which was rather
+unaccountable, till I afterwards learned that they had lately visited
+that part of the country on a horse-stealing expedition, in which their
+success had been too good to make them desirous of showing their faces
+there at present. Money, guns, pistols, cutlasses, brass, beads, and
+everything else that could be thought of to tempt their cupidity, were
+offered. I was not disposed to be niggard of promises; but in vain. To
+Port Famine they were determined _not_ to go; but old Parosilver assured
+me, by way of compensation, that he would take me to "Holland," which
+was a "much better place." Whereabout on terra firma this South American
+Holland was situated,--if, indeed, there was any such place, and the
+chief was not indulging in a little extra lying,--was past all
+conjecture. I inquired the distance. He could not tell exactly. Was it
+inhabited by Americans or English? There were "twenty or thirty white
+men there, and plenty of rum and tobacco." They promised to start with
+me towards Holland the next day. In what direction? They pointed towards
+the Atlantic. Well, I cared little where it was, or who lived there,
+provided only they were not Patagonians, and I could once get free of
+these rascals. But on the following morning the migration was postponed,
+in consequence of unexpected tidings.
+
+One of the tribe, who had been down to the shore, reported that my
+vessel had come back. This welcome, though rather improbable
+information, started me, with about a dozen of them, on the track of his
+story. On gaining a view of the straits, a vessel was plainly in sight,
+but it was a strange sail. Yet, if I could succeed in boarding her, my
+purposes would be answered. She came into the bight of the bay, and
+anchored about fifteen miles below us. I endeavored to make my smutty
+companions comprehend that as the tide was then running out they would
+not make the shore till it turned, which would not be till night. They
+waited till near night, when hunger and thirst wore out their patience,
+and they ordered me off with them. Against this untimely mandate I
+warmly remonstrated, and after some dispute it was arranged that the
+chief should stay with me for the night. The rest returned to their
+encampment, and we made a good fire, which was kept up till nearly
+morning. Old Parosilver lay down under the lee of a clump of bushes,
+while I was busy in active exercise to keep warm, and replenishing the
+fire with dry bushes. At dusk I had observed the vessel hoisting sail,
+and beating up the bay. On this I began brandishing firebrands to
+attract notice, and walked to and fro on the beach for hours. The craft
+gradually approached, till her white canvas became distinguishable
+through the surrounding gloom. Fresh fuel was heaped on the fire, a
+bright blaze ascended; I took my station directly in front of it,
+holding out my coat, and frequently turning round, that my form and
+features might be more distinctly revealed. And now a thrill of joy
+electrified me, as I saw a light set on deck, which appeared to be
+stationary. There could be no doubt that the vessel had come to anchor
+directly opposite to us. Though hungry and weary with long watching, I
+hurried about, and gathered sticks and leaves in abundance to kindle a
+still brighter beacon-fire, in whose light and warmth anxiety began to
+expand into hope. At dawn of day, as the horizon lighted up, I could
+distinguish the vessel lying about a mile off, quiet as a sea-fowl on
+the calm surface. Presently there was a movement on deck, the anchor was
+hove up, the fore and main sails were hoisted, and the object on which
+my hopes and ardent prayers had centred through the cold night receded
+from view through the straits, bound, doubtless, for California. I
+watched the fast-vanishing sail with tearful eyes; and the old chief,
+who had been on the look-out, started for his horse, that had been
+hampered and turned out to crop among the scanty vegetation.
+
+Before I had time to recover from the first revulsion of disappointment
+and grief, _another_ vessel, a topsail schooner, came in by Point
+Dungeness. "Cheer up," I said to myself; "the sun will be shining, the
+darkness have given place to the clear day, before this vessel can be up
+and opposite to us." Confident of being noticed, I began active
+preparations for the approaching visitor. No rod of sufficient length
+was to be found; but, after some search, a number of short crooked
+sticks were collected. To lash them together, I tore up my drawers,
+which I could ill afford, and appropriated my shoe-strings. My flannel
+shirt was hoisted as a flag; and having replenished the fire, I paced
+the beach with colors flying, but, as the vessel approached, with
+increasing faintness of heart; for the wind gradually shifted, so that
+she could only take advantage of it by heading towards Terra del Fuego.
+At last she came opposite, but so near the further shore that the
+chances of success diminished every moment. Dark objects moved on the
+deck,--fancy painted them as men;--would they not discover me through
+their glasses, and be drawn by my signal of distress? No; onward she
+floated away,--the narrows were soon passed, and my vision of
+deliverance was dissipated.
+
+With this final death-blow to all present hopes of relief, I turned away
+in despair. Exhausted by hunger, cold and fatigue, and worn out by hours
+of anxiety, I fell helpless upon the ground, and wept like a child. For
+the first time I felt _utterly_ forsaken, and repined at my lot as one
+of unmitigated evil. Effort seemed useless; I had neither resolution nor
+strength to make further exertion. There was nothing for me but listless
+endurance. I even reproached myself that I had not cast myself into the
+sea, and staked my life on the chance of swimming to the schooner.
+There was no possibility of doing this; but failure would have been
+_only_ death, and what was life worth to me here? This tempest of
+self-reproach soon spent itself. My temperament is too buoyant to be
+long depressed, and calm and stout thoughts took the place of despairing
+weakness. It was unmanly, something whispered within me, thus to give
+way before difficulties. It would be time enough to do this when all
+possible effort had failed. The weak and imbecile might take refuge in
+despair, but the strength of youth should serve me better. I called to
+mind examples of courage in greater emergencies, when obstacles that
+seemed insurmountable had been conquered by fortitude and perseverance.
+"Heaven helps those who help themselves." The more I reflected on the
+matter, the stronger grew the impulses of faith and courage, by whose
+force it seemed possible to win a triumph against the greatest odds.
+Before rising from the earth, my resolution was fully taken to throw
+discouragement to the winds; by the help of God to meet whatever
+impended with the courage of a man; to bear my calamities with patient
+endurance; and to give up hope and energy only when nothing was left to
+be attempted, or the power to do and suffer was exhausted.
+
+I rose a new man,--my strength invigorated, my soul fortified by a
+strong purpose. Though the cold night air had thoroughly chilled my
+frame, it now felt a warmth kindled by the fires within, and an
+unaccustomed flush suffused my countenance. The resolve fixed in this
+memorable crisis of my captivity, though severely tested, was never
+wholly overborne. Henceforth, the events and scenes through which I
+passed were viewed with a calmness that had been before unattainable,
+and which is now scarcely credible, on recollection. So true is it that
+our strength is unknown to ourselves till it is thoroughly tested.
+
+The hope of immediate release, however, was at an end; my savage
+captors, it seemed, must be looked upon as for an indefinite period my
+masters and companions; and I had nothing at present to do but to divert
+myself by a study of their manners and habits; to consult my safety by a
+close study of their character, and of the ways and means by which so to
+adapt my deportment to it as to win their confidence, to disarm
+hostility, and to seize opportunities.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Patagonia, as it offered itself to my observation, more than answered
+the descriptions of geographers,--bleak, barren, desolate, beyond
+description or conception,--only to be appreciated by being seen. Viewed
+from the Straits of Magellan, it rises in gentle undulations or
+terraces. Far as the eye can reach, in a westerly direction, it assumes
+a more broken and hilly appearance, and long ranges of mountains,
+extending from north to south, divide the eastern from the western
+shore. The soil is of a light, sandy character, and bears nothing worthy
+the name of a tree. Low bushes, or underwood, are tolerably abundant,
+and in the valleys a coarse, wiry grass grows luxuriantly. Streams of
+water are rare. The natives draw their supplies principally from springs
+or pools in the valleys, the water of which is generally brackish and
+disagreeable.
+
+The variety of animal is nearly as limited as that of vegetable
+productions. The guanaco, a quadruped allied to the lama, and with some
+resemblance to the camelopard, is found in considerable numbers. It is
+larger than the red deer, fleet on the foot, usually found in large
+herds, frequenting not only the plains, but found along the course of
+the Andes. Its flesh is a principal article of food; its skin is dried
+with the hair on, in such a manner that, when wet, it retains its
+pliability and softness. This process of preserving skins seems to be
+peculiar to the Indian tribes, and is not unlike that by which
+buffalo-robes, bear-skins, buckskins, and other articles of luxury, and
+even necessity, among us, are prepared by the North American Indians.
+Guanaco-skins are cut into pieces of all sizes, and sewed into a
+thousand fanciful patterns, every workman originating a style to suit
+himself. The hoofs are sometimes turned to account by the natives as
+soles for shoes, when they indulge in such a luxury, which is not often.
+
+The enemy of the guanaco is the cougar, or "American lion," smaller than
+its African namesake, and more resembling the tiger in his character and
+habits, having a smooth, sleek coat, of a brownish yellow
+color,--altogether a very beautiful but ferocious creature. His chase is
+a favorite, though rare and dangerous, sport of the natives. Patagonia
+likewise boasts of the skunk, whose flesh is used for food. There are
+also foxes, and innumerable mice. Of birds, the only noticeable
+varieties are the condor, in the Andes, and the cassowary, a species of
+ostrich, smaller than that of Africa, on the plains; its plumage is not
+abundant, generally of a gray or dun color. Its flesh is tender and
+sweet, and with the fat much prized by the Indians. Like the African
+ostrich, it is exceedingly swift, only to be captured on horseback, and
+often fleet enough to outrun the fastest racer.
+
+The climate is severe. The Rio Negro forms the northern boundary, and
+nearly the whole country is south of the parallel of 40° south latitude.
+At the time of my capture, which was in the month of May, the weather
+corresponded to that of November in the New England States. Its
+chilliness, however, was greatly increased by the bleak winds of that
+exposed locality. Along the Straits of Magellan the weather is also
+exceedingly changeable. Sudden and severe squalls, often amounting
+almost to a hurricane, vex the navigation of the straits, and sweep over
+the coast with fearful fury.
+
+The habits of the Patagonians, or at least of the tribe among whom I was
+cast, are migratory, wandering over the country in quest of game, or as
+their caprice may prompt them. They subsist altogether on the flesh of
+animals and birds. The guanaco furnishes most of their food, and all
+their clothing. A mantle of skins, sewed with the sinews of the ostrich,
+fitting closely about the neck and extending below the knee, is their
+only article of dress, except in the coldest weather, when a kind of
+shoe, made of the hind hoof and a portion of the skin above it, serves
+to protect their inferior extremities.
+
+In person they are large; on first sight, they appear absolutely
+gigantic. They are taller than any other race I have seen, though it is
+impossible to give any accurate description. The only standard of
+measurement I had was my own height, which is about five feet ten
+inches. I could stand very easily under the arms of many of them, and
+all the men were at least a head taller than myself. Their average
+height, I should think, is nearly six and a half feet, and there were
+specimens that could have been little less than seven feet high. They
+have broad shoulders, full and well-developed chests, frames muscular
+and finely proportioned, the whole figure and air making an impression
+like that which the first view of the sons of Anak is recorded to have
+made on the children of Israel. They exhibit enormous strength, whenever
+they are sufficiently aroused to shake off their constitutional laziness
+and exert it. They have large heads, high cheek-bones, like the North
+American Indians, whom they also resemble in their complexion, though it
+is a shade or two darker. Their foreheads are broad, but low, the hair
+covering them nearly to the eyes; eyes full, generally black, or of a
+dark brown, and brilliant, though expressive of but little intelligence.
+Thick, coarse, and stiff hair protects the head, its abundance making
+any artificial covering superfluous. It is worn long, generally divided
+at the neck, so as to hang in two folds over the shoulders and back, but
+is sometimes bound above the temples, by a fillet, over which it flows
+in ample luxuriance. Like more civilized people, the Patagonians take
+great pride in the proper disposition and effective display of their
+hair. Their teeth are really beautiful, sound and white,--about the only
+attractive and enviable feature of their persons. Feet and hands are
+large, but not disproportionate to their total bulk. They have deep,
+heavy voices, and speak in guttural tones,--the worst guttural I ever
+heard,--with a muttering, indistinct articulation, much as if their
+mouths were filled with hot pudding. Their countenances are generally
+stupid, but, on closer inspection, there is a gleam of low cunning that
+flashes through this dull mask, and is increasingly discernible on
+acquaintance with them; when excited, or engaged in any earnest
+business that calls their faculties into full exercise, their features
+light up with unexpected intelligence and animation. In fact, as one
+becomes familiar with them, he will not fail to detect an habitual
+expression of "secretiveness" and duplicity, which he will wonder he did
+not observe sooner. They are almost as imitative as monkeys, and are all
+great liars; falsehood is universal and inveterate with men, women and
+children. The youngest seem to inherit the taint, and vie with the
+oldest in displaying it. The detection of a falsehood gives them no
+shame or uneasiness. To these traits should be added a thorough-paced
+treachery, and, what might seem rather inconsistent with their other
+qualities, a large share of vanity, and an immoderate love of praise.
+They are excessively filthy in their personal habits. Hydrophobia, so to
+speak, is a prevailing distemper; they never wash themselves. Hands and
+faces are covered with dirt, so thick, and of such ancient deposit, that
+their natural color only appears in spots, laid bare by the mechanical
+loosening and displacement of some of the strata, which curiously
+variegates the surface. It is hardly necessary to remark that such a
+condition of the skin is highly favorable to the increase and
+multiplication of "the moving creature that hath life," wherewith their
+persons are abundantly peopled.
+
+The women are proportionally smaller than the men, and rather inclined
+to embonpoint. The old chief had four wives, though he had probably
+never heard of Mahomet or his domestic laws. The rest of the tribe had
+only one wife apiece. The women erect the wigwams, provide fuel and
+cook,--if the operation should be dignified with that name,--in short,
+all the drudgery falls to their lot. They are treated as slaves, but
+made, in most respects, as comfortable in their servitude as the
+condition of their rude masters will admit. When, however, their lords
+are excited by gambling, or enraged for any or no cause, the fury of
+passion is visited upon their defenceless heads, which they bear
+uncomplainingly, with a meek submissiveness worthy of better treatment.
+They are passionately fond of trinkets and clumsy ornaments, such as
+bits of brass and copper, beads, and the like, which they wear suspended
+from their necks. A few of them had their ears pierced, and wore brass
+or copper ear-rings; and many of them decked out their children with
+similar rude finery, which is valued more than anything else, except
+rum, tobacco and bread. The men paint or bedaub their faces and breasts
+with a kind of red earth. Charcoal is also used as a cosmetic. A broad
+line of red alternating with a stripe of black, in various fantastic
+figures, is a favorite style of decoration. The women make themselves,
+if possible, still more hideous, by the application of a pigment made of
+clay, blood and grease. Some of them would be very comely, if only
+cleanly, and content to leave nature less strenuously adorned.
+
+The people are as deficient in the morals as in the refinements and
+courtesies of domestic life; their licentiousness is equal to their
+cruelty,--the filth of their persons only too faithfully represents the
+degree in which "their mind and conscience is defiled." I saw no person,
+of either sex, that appeared to have attained advanced age, though it
+was difficult to judge of this. The oldest Indian I remember to have
+seen did not seem to be above sixty.
+
+Their only wealth, aside from their huts, consists of horses, the stock
+of which is frequently replenished by stealing from the Spanish and
+Chilian settlements. These animals are, for the most part, of small size
+and inferior quality, half wild, coated with coarse, shaggy hair--lean
+and woe-begone enough, just "fit for the crows." A few valuable
+specimens of a superior breed are found among them, doubtless "conveyed"
+there. The rude saddles in use among them are mostly of Spanish origin,
+obtained at the settlements. They consist each of two boards, an inch
+thick, six inches wide, and two feet long, rounded at the corners so as
+to fit the horse's back, and united by two strips of board passing
+across the back-bone, the several pieces lashed together with leather
+strings. A piece of guanaco-skin often serves in default of a saddle.
+The steed is guided by a single rein, tied round the lower jaw; some of
+them sport a bit of iron or wood, secured by a string round the jaw,
+attaching the rein to this. Spurs, like the rest of their riding
+apparatus, are more efficient than elegant. They are indeed rude and
+cruel things,--straight sticks, six inches long, with a long, sharp iron
+inserted into the end, secured by a string or strap around the hollow of
+the foot, and tied at the top, a second strap nearer the heel, and a
+third passing round the heel. They are all agile and excellent horsemen.
+
+For weapons, the chief, and a few of the principal men, had cutlasses or
+swords. They had no fire-arms, nor could I learn that they understood
+their use; bows and arrows, spears and war-clubs, appeared to be equally
+unknown. All the men carried knives; and the _bolas_, a missile weapon
+used in the capture of all kinds of game. This consists of two round
+stones, or lead balls, if they can be procured weighing each about a
+pound, connected by a strap or thong of leather, ten or twelve feet
+long. When engaged in the chase, his horse at his highest speed, the
+rider holds one ball in his hand, and whirls the other rapidly above his
+head; when it has acquired sufficient momentum it is hurled with
+unerring aim at the object of pursuit, and either strikes the victim
+dead, or coils inextricably about him and roots him to the spot, a
+helpless mark for the hunter's knife.
+
+This tribe numbered about one thousand; the chief is the acknowledged
+head of the people. Whether his power was hereditary or elective, I
+could not learn; but incline to the belief that it was hereditary, as it
+appeared to be, in his theory at least, absolute. In all questions of
+importance his decision is final; yet his subjects take considerable
+liberty with his opinions, sometimes oppose his counsels, and even
+question his authority. On the appearance of such democratic symptoms,
+he sometimes finds it necessary to assert his sovereignty with spirit,
+and brandishes his cutlass smartly before their eyes.
+
+The habits of the people are not only filthy, but indolent to the last
+degree; exertion of body or mind is their greatest dread. They never go
+on a hunting expedition till there is nothing more to eat, nor even then
+till they feel the spur of extreme hunger. It sometimes happens that at
+such a crisis a storm comes on, which shuts them in; and it is no
+unfrequent occurrence for them, under such circumstances, to pass two or
+three days without tasting food. They learn nothing by experience; the
+same childish indolence and recklessness, followed by the same painful
+consequences, are continually recurring.
+
+Though their great size at first sight was fitted to inspire terror, it
+required no very long observation to discover that they were deficient
+in natural courage. This, in fact, might be inferred at once, from their
+habitual deceit, treachery and artifice, which are the defences of the
+weak and timorous, rather than the weapons of strong and daring natures.
+They always select the night to inflict injuries; never meet an enemy in
+open combat whom they can stab from behind, or despatch in the dark;
+and, when obliged to attack by day, always do so in large numbers. This
+defect of courage is increased by their superstition; they have great
+faith in charms, signs and omens, a weakness which I anticipated might
+exert great influence on my destiny in important conjunctures. Could I
+by any means so master their secret as to possess myself of its mystic
+power, it might prove an effective aid to my plans of self-defence, or
+of escape. Should it, on the other hand, be turned by any accidental
+causes against me, its impulse might prove irresistible by power or
+contrivance. There was no appearance of idolatrous worship among them,
+nor could I observe any allusion to a Supreme Being, or to any superior
+powers having personal attributes; and, except a single ceremony, of
+which more hereafter, the nature of which was and is still inexplicable,
+there was nothing that suggested to my mind the idea of religious
+worship. Whether they are cannibals or not, has been a matter of some
+dispute. So far as I know, they have been, heretofore, only casually
+observed on the beach by voyagers, or vaguely reported of by the people
+of adjoining countries and neighboring settlements; neither of which is
+a sufficiently reliable source of information. My own personal
+advantages on this head were greater; but I am obliged, after all, to
+leave the question about where I found it, so far as _certain_
+conclusions are concerned. Yet some circumstances occurred, or were
+related to me, that incline my mind strongly to the belief that such
+horrible practices are not unjustly ascribed to them. Of the soundness
+of my conclusions those who follow the course of the narrative will have
+the opportunity of judging for themselves; if such had been my
+persuasion at the beginning, it may be readily imagined what effect this
+last hazard would have had upon my feelings, in contemplating the
+possibilities of the future. Happily a convenient scepticism on this
+point preserved me from this dark apprehension.
+
+I came among these people not, certainly, with the best preparation in
+my previous habits and associations to endure either the climate of
+the country or the hardships of captivity. I went on shore in my usual
+ship's dress; thick frock coat, trousers, and shoes, and glazed cap.
+My under-garments were woollen; though an important item, as before
+related, was made way with in fruitlessly signalling vessels in the
+straits. But to live without any change of dress, to sleep without any
+additional covering, protected from the cold ground only by a fragment
+of guanaco-hide, and the other discomforts and exposures of life among
+savages, made, altogether, a harsh contrast to the comforts of our
+good schooner. To these, however, I gradually became inured, till I
+was able to meet cold and wet and storm with as stoical indifference
+as my dark companions, who had known no other lot from infancy.
+
+Of the character of the natives I had little previous knowledge; and
+that little was not adapted to stimulate curiosity, or prompt the least
+anxiety for more intimate acquaintance. It was derived mainly from
+whalers, in whom it seemed to have produced much the same degree of
+contentment,--a feeling that ignorance is bliss. Indeed, the greatest
+caution has always been employed by voyagers in regard to landing on
+these shores; many experienced seamen cannot be persuaded to land at
+all; trade with the natives is always carried on in boats off shore,
+frequently with loaded fire-arms constantly levelled, in readiness for
+action in case of emergency. But here I was, put forcibly to the study
+of their character in the school of dame Experience, and can testify to
+the truth of the saying that she charges roundly for tuition. Let the
+reader give me credit for the cheapness with which I put him in
+possession of what knowledge was purchased at so exorbitant a price.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Reünion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians.
+
+
+The reader left me just rising from a half-stupor into which a double
+disappointment had thrown me, feverish with the excitement of new
+purposes and resolutions. The first aim was for some fresh water, to
+allay a burning thirst. After a long and unsuccessful search, I went
+deliberately to the beach and took a deep draught of the briny waves.
+Expecting that the chief would shortly return for me with a train of his
+followers, it occurred to me that I might secrete myself, though there
+was nothing certain to be gained by it, if I were successful, of which
+the probability was not great. With this object in view, I walked along
+close on the water's edge, that my footprints might be obliterated by
+the waves. After proceeding in this way for some distance, I left the
+shore, and started towards the interior, in quest of a place where I
+might dig a hole in the earth and cover myself with grass and bushes. I
+had gone but a little way inland, when, on ascending a slight eminence,
+whom should I meet, face to face, but the old chief and another of my
+tormentors! So the scheme came to nothing; but after others more
+feasible had so dolefully miscarried, it was not in human nature to lay
+this disappointment very deeply to heart. I made as though I was glad to
+see the old fellow, though, could I then have had my will of the
+savages, they would have been safely anchored in the middle of the
+straits. I told him (Heaven forgive me!) I was looking for them. The
+chief responded to my greeting only by ordering me to mount his horse. I
+requested leave to stay a little longer, and was refused. I again
+requested to be taken to Port Famine;--no, I should be taken to
+"Holland."
+
+I mounted behind him, and we travelled all day in the direction of Cape
+Virgin. For two days and nights I had eaten nothing, and drunk nothing
+but sea-water, and, in fact, had taken very little food for three days.
+We arrived about dark at an eminence commanding a view of their new
+squatting ground. Here we halted to take a short survey of the
+encampment. To them, doubtless, the prospect was beautiful; to me it was
+heart-sickening, but I strove to keep up cheerful appearances. Down in a
+valley or deep marshy hollow, covered with tall grass or rushes, an
+almost innumerable drove of horses were seen grazing; and beyond, at a
+short distance, the surface was thickly dotted with huts, erected, or in
+process of erection, by female architects. Children, in swarms like
+summer flies, and with no more artificial covering than those insects,
+were capering and shouting in high glee. At length we descended to the
+rude village; after tacking about, first to the right and then to the
+left, like a ship against a head wind, we came gallantly into town, and
+drew up at the chief's lodge. I was glad to dismount, sore with
+bestriding the skeleton of a horse.
+
+Here I again took the liberty of proposing a trip to Port Famine,
+offering to go alone, if they would not go with me. The chief told me,
+with emphasis, to say no more about it. He would take me to "Holland,"
+and there get rum and tobacco. "Only get me there," I said to myself,
+"and much good may your rum and tobacco do your old carcass!"
+
+On the third day of our encampment here the tribe was divided, and I was
+sent off with one of the chief's lieutenants. A more blood-thirsty
+rascal could not be found in the tribe. This step was probably taken by
+the chief to get rid of my importunities to visit Port Famine, the
+frequent renewal of which had evidently worried him. My new guardian
+regaled my ears, from time to time, with stories of his murderous
+exploits, most likely in order to instil into me a wholesome dread of
+his power, and a submissive temper under his authority. The details of
+his bloody yarns are too shocking to repeat. One story, on which he
+seemed to dwell with peculiar satisfaction, as it was confirmed by more
+reliable authority afterwards, I will here relate, with such other
+particulars as I gained by subsequent information.
+
+About two years before, the British brig Avon was in the Santa Cruz
+river. Captain Eaton, her commander, went on shore with his men, and
+bought some horses of the Indians, which he paid for in rum, tobacco and
+trinkets. After receiving their pay, they played the same trick as with
+me,--refused to deliver the horses. The captain was about getting under
+weigh, when the Indians, perceiving his intention to leave them, went
+down to the shore opposite the vessel, and beckoned him to come on
+shore, signifying that they would give up the horses, as agreed. The
+boat was sent ashore, and six or eight Indians returned in it to the
+brig. They surrounded the captain on the quarter-deck, and told him the
+horses were coming. He stepped to the rail with his glass, to observe
+motions on shore; while thus engaged, the savages came up behind, drew
+out their long knives, and stabbed him to the heart. He sunk lifeless on
+the rail, and fell upon the deck. Seizing him by the hair, and raising
+him partly on their knees, they cut his throat, and stabbed him again
+and again, to make the work of death sure. They then rushed upon the
+mate and stabbed him, but not mortally; he threw himself exhausted down
+the hatchway, and had just strength enough to secrete himself among the
+cargo. The boy was dealt with in the same manner as the captain, and one
+or two sailors, being wounded, succeeded, like the mate, in getting
+below deck and secreting themselves. The remainder of the crew were
+fortunately off in a boat at this time, and escaped the massacre. The
+savages ate and drank on board, and then plundered the brig of such
+articles as suited their fancy. Mr. Douglass, of "Holland," being on
+board the brig, was not murdered, but carried on shore and detained. A
+gentleman named Simms afterwards endeavored to effect the release of Mr.
+Douglass. He gave them all that they demanded as ransom, and was then
+himself detained to keep his friend company. A third embassy was
+undertaken by Mr. John Hall, of whom the reader will learn more
+hereafter. He paid a large ransom for his two friends, and was then
+served as they had been. He succeeded in effecting his escape the next
+day; but Douglass and Simms were carried off, murdered, and, it is
+supposed,--I believe with good reason,--that their bodies were eaten.
+The Avon, after being plundered, fell into the hands of the remainder of
+the crew, and sailed for Montevideo.
+
+I travelled with this ruffian about ten days. He was a hard master,
+though I cannot charge him with personal ill-treatment that amounted to
+cruelty. Our life was monotonous enough. We slept a good share of the
+time when we rested, drank pure water when we could get it, and ate what
+fell in our way; though the reader may be assured that we saw some
+hungry days. At the expiration of ten days, the tribe was reünited at a
+place agreed upon. Here we continued several days, the natives occupied
+exclusively with gambling, which was alike their daily labor and
+recreation. When the demands of hunger became too imperative to be
+longer postponed, they would go out and hunt, after which they resumed
+their games.
+
+Gambling is a vice to which they are greatly addicted, and they pursue
+it with a perseverance and ardor worthy of amateurs in more civilized
+communities. The implements used are bits of guanaco-skin, about the
+size of common playing-cards, on which are rudely depicted dogs and a
+variety of other beasts, with divers mystic marks and scrawls, done with
+a stick in a pigment composed of clay, blood and grease. Unlike their
+compeers in more enlightened circles, they put down stakes on only one
+side, for which the opposite players contend. In this way they rid
+themselves of their saddles, bridles, knives, and whatever other
+portable articles they may have to hazard. Nay, I have seen them
+inflamed to such a passion as to take the mantles from their women's
+shoulders, telling them to protect themselves from the cold as they
+could.
+
+But where was "Holland," all this time? They told me at first that we
+should be only four days reaching it, and already more than ten had
+passed. On inquiry, they said that the journey would be completed in six
+days; on we went, for _sixteen_ days more, with the same dull routine,
+the Indians assigning seven or eight days as the minimum time. The place
+seemed to be all the while receding. I had long since become aware that
+there was no truth in them; but persisted in questioning them, to call
+forth fresh lies, which they uttered with marvellous fluency, as if it
+were vastly easier than speaking the truth.
+
+After the reünion of the tribe, I implored the old chief to take me back
+to his lodge, and to his especial care; to which he consented, much to
+my satisfaction. With him I felt a kind of security unknown elsewhere;
+under God, I relied alone on his protection. He alone of the tribe had
+the power to defend me, and I spared no pains to secure his good-will.
+To this end, I made him large promises of such things as I thought would
+arouse his cupidity, or stimulate his appetites, as well as an abundance
+of ornaments for his wives and children, if he would only take me to
+some place inhabited by white people. This policy was extended to his
+household; disagreeable as the task was, I forced myself to caress his
+dirty children, and to tell them what pretty things I intended to give
+them. By these, and such-like demonstrations, I flattered myself it
+might be possible to keep on peaceable terms with old Parosilver, and
+enlist his authority for me, if circumstances should compel me to appeal
+to it.
+
+The reünited tribe remained in camp three or four days, dividing their
+time between gambling and hunting. When I accompanied the hunters, as I
+sometimes did, I was sure to get something to eat towards night, as they
+invariably kindled a fire and cooked part of the game on the spot where
+it was killed. Their method of preparing all meats was essentially the
+same as has been described; tossing large pieces into the fire, or
+suspending them over it, till they were somewhat smoked and dried, and
+then devouring them, without salt, or any other condiment but the sauce
+of hunger. Cooking the ostrich, however, forms an exception: the
+feathers are plucked out, the bones dissected and removed; hot stones
+are placed within the body, the skin is tightly sewed together, and the
+whole is partially roasted on the embers. The lacings are then cut, and
+the meat is served up; it has an excellent flavor, far surpassing that
+of the domestic turkey. The bird is covered with a layer of fat, half an
+inch thick, which is melted, and collects in the body, forming a
+condiment which is relished as the greatest luxury of Patagonian living.
+If any fragments of the repast remain, they are slung to the backs of
+the saddles, and so carried home, dangling at the horses' sides, till
+they are so begrimed with dust as to defy all conjecture as to their
+quality or origin. These choice morsels are proffered to the home
+department, are received with smiles of gratitude, and devoured with a
+gust sharpened by long abstinence. It was noticeable that the plumage of
+the ostrich, though beautiful, was not at all valued by the Indians;
+large quantities of the feathers are blown all over the country,
+without attracting the least regard, while men and women disfigure
+themselves with paint, and load their persons with the cheapest of all
+trumpery, brass and copper and beads, picked up from traders, or stolen.
+
+The hunting of the guanaco is not only their chief reliance for food,
+but a spirited amusement, conducted after a fashion peculiar alike to
+hunters and hunted. Patagonia, as before mentioned, has no trees, but is
+covered here and there, in patches, with a kind of under-brush of scrub
+growth, and the plains extend back for hundreds of miles from the
+Atlantic shore, like a vast rolling prairie. This affords a clear and
+excellent hunting-ground, with nothing to conceal the game, or hinder
+the pursuer, except now and then a clump of low bushes, or the tall
+grass of the marshes. Two to four hundred Indians on horseback,
+bare-headed, and with their skin mantles about them, and each having the
+bolas and his long knife tucked beneath his belt, the whole followed by
+an innumerable pack of dogs of every kind, down to curs of low degree,
+make up a hunting party; as far as the eye can reach, their gigantic
+forms, diminished by the distance, may be seen projected on the horizon,
+their long hair streaming in the wind. Presently a thickness is
+perceived in the air, and a cloud of dust arises,--a sure indication
+that a herd of guanacos has been beaten up, and is now approaching. All
+eyes are fixed intently on the cloud; it soon appears as if several
+acres of earth were alive, and in rapid motion. There is a herd of from
+five hundred to a thousand of these animals, infuriated, rushing forward
+at their utmost speed whatever direction they may chance to take, they
+follow in a straight line; and, as soon as their course is ascertained,
+the Indians may be seen running their horses at break-neck pace to plant
+themselves directly in the course of the living tide. As the game
+approach, the hunter puts spurs to his horse and rushes across their
+track. When within twenty or thirty yards, he jerks the bolas from his
+girdle, and, whirling it violently above his head, lets fly. The weapon
+usually strikes the head or neck of the animal, and winds itself about
+his fore-legs, bringing him to the ground. The hunter dismounts, cuts
+the victim's throat, remounts, and is again in pursuit. The whizzing
+missile, unerring in its aim, brings down another and another, till the
+party are satisfied with their chase and their prey. The dogs fall upon
+the poor animals, when helplessly entangled by the bolas, and often
+cruelly mangle them before the hunter has time to despatch them. Seldom
+does any one miss the game he marks. It is the height of manly ambition
+among them, the last result of their training, to excel in the chase.
+
+The sport being over, then comes the dressing of the meat. The body is
+split open, the entrails removed, the heart and large veins opened, to
+permit the blood to flow into the cavity. The Indians scoop up with
+their hands and eagerly drink the blood. When their thirst is satisfied,
+the remainder is poured into certain of the intestines selected for the
+purpose, to become (to their accommodating tastes) a luxury as highly
+prized as any surnamed of Bologna. The ribs are disjointed from the
+back-bone, and, with the head, discarded as worthless. The body is
+quartered, cutting through the skin; the quarters, tied together in
+pairs, are thrown across the horses' backs, and conveyed to the camp.
+Arrived at their wigwams, the chivalrous hunters never unlade their
+beasts, but lean upon the horses' necks till their wives come out and
+relieve them of the spoil. They then dismount, unsaddle their horses,
+and turn them loose.
+
+Whilst remaining at our present encampment, strong indications of
+dissatisfaction were apparent, which manifestly had reference to me.
+There was a large party that had always entertained hostile feelings
+towards me; and I now found it necessary to exert myself to the utmost
+to quell their discontent, by making large promises of presents to men,
+women and children, "due and payable" on arrival at some white
+settlement; also, by humoring their caprices, and flattering their
+vanity with the most honeyed words at my command. The reader, I hope,
+will not harshly judge of the deceptions which are here and elsewhere
+avowed in this narrative. I was placed in circumstances which, it seemed
+to me, made this a legitimate and necessary mode of self-defence. It was
+plain that my only way of escape would be by some negotiation for
+ransom, and the Indians had conceived expectations of very large profit
+to be made out of me. They were told, when we landed, that I was the
+captain of the ship,--an unfortunate error, but one that I could not
+repair. I was naturally looked upon as so much the more valuable
+hostage. My only resource was to act in character: to magnify my own
+importance, to increase their expectations, whenever I found myself
+sinking in the scale of their favor,--to make them feel, in short, that
+they had an immense interest in preserving my life, and getting me to
+"Holland," or some other white settlement, with the most convenient
+speed. And if some of the fictions appear gross, it is enough to say
+that they were such as seemed, at the time, to be adapted to the
+grossness of their apprehensions and desires, and to the most sure
+accomplishment of the purpose in view.
+
+Yet, so false-hearted and treacherous were they, that one could never be
+for a moment certain what impression was made. Liars in grain
+themselves, it was only natural for them to distrust every one else.
+Whenever I spoke, and especially when making promises, the old chief
+would look me steadily in the eye, as though piercing my inmost
+thoughts. But, in process of time, I so schooled myself to the exercise,
+that I could return his look and tell the toughest stories without
+blinking. Some of them were to the full as credible as those of
+Munchausen. It was constantly necessary to put memory and imagination to
+the rack, to call forth something new and astonishing wherewith to
+divert their fancy, and preöccupy their minds from meditating mischief
+against me, of which I had continual reason to be afraid. Secure against
+any detection of the plagiarism, I drew largely from the adventures of
+Sinbad the Sailor, the marvels of the Arabian Nights, and the cunning
+devices of Gil Blas, the materials of which served, when duly mixed with
+my own veritable experience, to excite their curiosity, if not to awaken
+awe and superstitious reverence. They would sit around me for hours, as
+eager as so many children, their eyes and ears all intent, while in
+broken Spanish, mixed with a few Indian phrases that had been grafted
+into my speech through the ear, aided by abundant gesticulations, that
+shadowed forth and illustrated whatever was obscure in expression, I
+spun yarns of no common length, strength and elasticity. Sometimes, in
+response to a general call from the company, the old chief at the end
+of some marvellous tale, would command me to tell it again. This was no
+easy task, considering the freaks which my imagination usually played,
+without restraint, in the progress of the narrative. In no long time,
+however, I learned to imitate the prudence of boys who turn down the
+leaves of their books, or of Indians who break down the shrubs and twigs
+along a new path, by taking special note of my deviations,--a sort of
+mental dog's-ear, or way-mark, interposed at the point of departure. It
+was not difficult to retrace the way at their bidding, and give them the
+whole journey, to its minutest turnings.
+
+The excitement and dissatisfaction which I had remarked and dreaded
+appeared to have died away, when one night I had startling evidence that
+it was still active. At the usual hour of rest, as I was expecting every
+moment to be ordered, like a dog, to my cold corner of the lodge, a
+gigantic, ill-favored fellow made his appearance, and exchanged, in an
+under tone, a few words with the chief. Without comprehending a word
+that was passing, I could see, by their significant glances, that the
+colloquy concerned me, and that it boded me no good. The giant soon
+disappeared. The chief sat a moment in silence, rose, and ordered me to
+follow him. To the question where he was taking me, no other answer was
+vouchsafed than "Come along!" We had proceeded but a short distance when
+I observed a group of Indians sitting in a circle on the earth. The
+sight almost froze my blood. The most dismal apprehensions seized upon
+me. There needed no wizard to tell the import of the scene. The _fatal
+ring_, so much to be dreaded by those who are cast upon the tender
+mercies of savages, was set for me. The suddenness of it aggravated the
+blow. It almost paralyzed thought, and arrested my powers of motion.
+The catastrophe of the tragedy, I thought, is at hand, unless arrested
+by the interposition of a higher power. In my way to the dreaded spot I
+sent up a silent supplication that He whose eye marked all my footsteps,
+and whose power was all-sufficient for my protection against utmost
+peril, would keep me in that hour of my "extremity," and make it,
+according to the proverb, His "opportunity."
+
+Arrived at the ring, I found the Indians squatting on the ice and snow
+awaiting us, with their cutlasses and large knives tucked under their
+blankets,--weapons they never carry except when they expect to use them.
+I was ordered within, and seated myself as near as possible to the
+chief. They presently began talking in rotation, as they sat, in their
+own tongue. Their words were mainly unintelligible; but the deadly
+malice that flashed from the eyes, kindled in the features, and animated
+the gesticulations, of some of them, left no room to doubt the
+significance of their speech. A part of them were clamorous against my
+life, as they had constantly been. Others appeared to be irresolute, and
+said little; but, so far as could be discovered, no voice was raised in
+my favor. The chief spoke last,--I hung upon his lips, and anxiously
+scrutinized his face and action. I gathered that he was in favor of
+holding on a while longer, and using me as a decoy, to lure others
+within their power; reminding them of my promises,--the quantities of
+rum and tobacco they were to get from me, the trinkets destined for
+women and children. He was for getting the booty before cutting the
+matter short with me. His remarks evidently had great weight with the
+council, and exerted a soothing effect on all of them. At this point I
+thought it a meet season to impress upon their minds that I was of some
+consequence in the world, and asked leave to speak for myself, which was
+granted. Thereupon I launched forth in an oration, the chief acting as
+interpreter, and retailing it to the circle sentence by sentence:
+
+"Buenos Senores! Me mucho Grande Americano capitan, mismo commodant
+mucho mass, mucha barca, mucha galeta, muchos soldados, muchos
+marinarios. Me tene mucho mucho big guns, bastante poquito mismo
+bastante, cutlass, pistols mucho bastante. Vuestros hombres buenos per
+me, mi marinarios, mi soldados, buenos per vos. Othro corso usted malo
+rumpe me," &c. &c. &c. In such a jumble of Spanish, English and Indian,
+duly set off with grimace and gesture, I gave them to understand that
+they were dealing with no inferior personage, but with one who was at
+home as good as the president; one having at command abundance of
+steamships and sailing vessels of all sorts, with soldiers and mariners,
+big guns and little guns, pistols and cutlasses. That if they were good
+to me they would receive good from me and mine; but that, if they did me
+any harm, men would come from North America in numbers as incalculable
+as the hairs of their heads, and kill every mother's son of them.
+Furthermore, if they would take me to some white settlement, whether
+American, English, French or Spanish, I would order the white people to
+give them rum, tobacco, flour, rice, sugar and tea. _Of course_ the
+white men could do no less than obey, and they would thus be enabled to
+indulge themselves in luxuries almost without limit.
+
+It was evident, at a glance, that my speech was seasonable, and took
+effect in the right quarter. Their eyes stood out with wonder, and the
+sternness of their countenances was relaxed. They acquiesced in the
+proposal to postpone final action for the present, and see what could be
+made out of me before doing their worst. In a few days, they said, they
+would take me to "Holland;" but, no matter what time was limited, that
+"undiscovered country" seemed continually further off,--"a name" without
+any "local habitation." Their conduct in this was determined, as I was
+afterwards assured, by the fact that they were entirely undecided what
+to do with me. They longed for the good things I had told them of, and
+their greedy appetites could only be satisfied by taking me to a white
+settlement. On the other hand, they were painfully suspicious that I
+meant to give them the slip, and dreaded the result of bringing me into
+the vicinity of any settlement; while, at the same time, my
+grandiloquent assumptions and lofty threats made them shrink from the
+thought of doing me serious harm. The big guns and little guns greatly
+disturbed their imaginations. In short, I seemed to them an ugly
+customer--bad to keep, and bad to get rid of. They temporized,
+therefore, promised and hesitated, and postponed, and promised again.
+There was no use in trying to hurry their movements. So I gave them line
+upon line, seeking every opportunity to deepen the troublesome
+impression that they assumed a mighty responsibility when they made me a
+prisoner, and that their welfare depended greatly on the issue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring--Fashion.
+
+
+The next move of the tribe brought us within about a mile of Corey
+Inlet. The day after we halted, in full view of the south Atlantic, on
+looking out upon the water, two masts were plainly descried, evidently
+those of some vessel running down to this inlet. On going up an
+elevation commanding a better view, it proved to be a topsail schooner.
+She had undoubtedly mistaken this false cape for Cape Virgin, at the
+entrance of the Straits of Magellan. I pointed out the vessel to the
+Indians, and requested them to take me to the shore, that I might, if
+possible, communicate with her and be ransomed. After some delay, they
+complied; but, as we approached the beach, she was seen suddenly to haul
+off the shore and stand down the coast, having probably found out her
+mistake. We made all possible haste to gain the beach before she could
+have time to pass out of sight. I mounted a tall cliff, where I could
+distinctly see the men on deck, and, standing on the horse's back,
+waved my jacket, and made every possible demonstration to attract their
+notice. All in vain. The little vessel sailed steadily on, as if in
+mockery of my hopes. I watched her receding figure with an aching heart,
+till she vanished from sight. Thoughts of home and its familiar circle,
+of lost enjoyments, and of the suffering that must be a guest there, had
+long tantalized my sleeping and embittered my waking dreams. These were
+quickened and concentrated in a burning focus, by the light of such a
+vision from the world of my past existence, only to inflict the keener
+torture upon my sensibilities. My situation became more intolerable by
+every fresh disappointment. It was almost enough to drive me mad. Must
+I, then, give up all hope of rescue?
+
+A few minutes passed, and the tempest of feeling passed with them.
+Reflection convinced me that the indulgence of such feelings was not
+only useless, but actually pernicious, as tending to unfit me for
+rational and successful contrivance. My condition, truly, was dreadful;
+so much the more necessary was it to exercise the most calm and patient
+and self-possessed prudence, in order to devise and execute any purpose
+of escape. Like the surgeon who looks with steady nerve on the quivering
+frame subjected to his knife, I must nerve myself to look the gloomy
+problem of my lot, without shrinking, fully in the face, and keep my
+emotions, in all circumstances, strictly under the control of the
+calculating judgment; a maxim, like many others, much easier uttered now
+than to be thought of then, and far easier asserted than exemplified.
+Fully bent on effecting my deliverance in some way, to the discovery of
+which all possible ingenuity was to be directed, my resolutions of
+self-control were heroic enough. But to fulfil them,--to repress and
+disregard all those sympathies to which my whole being was bound,--this
+was indeed labor, too great, I often feared, to be accomplished. When
+the stress of inward conflict oppressed me, I would spring from my
+crouching-place in the lodge, rush into the open air, and seize upon
+every object that could in any degree divert attention and divide my
+thoughts. These exertions, with God's blessing, sufficed to restore, in
+some tolerable measure, the mental equilibrium, and to rescue me from
+the dominion of feelings the unrestrained action of which would have
+driven me to madness.
+
+During our stay of three or four days at this encampment, I had become
+so wearied with the monotony of their idleness, broken only by their
+desperate gambling,--the only thing, besides the chase, with which the
+Indians occupied themselves,--that for variety's sake, to divert my
+often-desponding moods, and to kill time, which hung heavily on my
+hands, I concluded to go out on a hunting frolic. Having procured a
+horse of the chief, and encased my lower extremities in a pair of native
+boots, much warmer than the ship shoes in which I had endured the cold,
+I set out with quite a party. We had gone six or eight miles, when I
+stopped for a short time, the rest of the troop riding off without
+regarding me. On remounting my charger, I put him to his utmost speed,
+in order to overtake them. While driving on at a furious rate, he
+stumbled and came to the ground, throwing his luckless rider over his
+head twenty feet or more, upon the hard, frozen ground. One ankle was
+severely sprained, and my whole body more or less bruised. So severe,
+indeed, was the shock, that I have occasional reminders of it to this
+day. No time was to be lost; and, with considerable effort, and no
+little pain, I succeeded in remounting. The swelling of my foot soon
+made my borrowed boots extremely uncomfortable, and I wished myself
+safely back at the lodge; but, at whatever expense of suffering, I had
+no resource but to follow the hunters till such time as they should see
+fit to return. The remembrance of that day's torment will not soon be
+lost. We arrived at the camp late in the evening; and, having been
+unsuccessful in the chase, went supperless to bed. On crawling into the
+hut and removing my boots, a sad sight was disclosed; but there was no
+present remedy. Dragging myself wearily into my corner, I had just
+crouched upon the skin, which had served for a saddle during the day and
+was still reeking from the horse's back, when a great dog came along,
+and threw his whole weight upon the lame foot, causing me to scream
+aloud for the pain. I drew back the serviceable foot, and gave him a
+kick that sent him through the fire and against the front of the lodge.
+Sleep kept at a distance till near morning, when I gained a brief
+oblivion of suffering.
+
+Day at last dawned, and with the morning's light came the busy note of
+preparation for removal. Down came the tents; the squaws packing up the
+furniture, and the Indians chasing and lassoing their horses. The noise
+and confusion, disagreeable enough under any circumstances, made the
+scene no inapt representative of chaos, from which I was glad to be
+delivered on the most expeditious terms possible; and I was easily
+persuaded to try my fortune again in the chase, more especially as we
+had nothing for breakfast. No words can do more than partial justice to
+one of these moving scenes. Not only the skin roofs of their wigwams,
+but the stakes and poles which constitute the frames, are carried along
+with them. Their furniture gives them little trouble, seldom consisting
+of more than the skins on which they sleep, an ox-horn tinder-box, a few
+sticks for roasting meat, and a leathern water-bucket. Tents and
+furniture are all packed together on their horses' backs. The pappooses
+in travelling are lashed to a kind of wooden sledge, rounded at the ends
+like sleigh-runners, and crossed with narrow slats, that bind the parts
+strongly together. The little brats are bound upon these machines, which
+are so shaped that their heads and feet are much below the general level
+of their bodies,--a very uncomfortable position for the youngsters, if
+they have as much sensibility to pain as other children, of which I
+incline to doubt, as they are inured from birth to almost every species
+of hardship. The sledge, with its living burden, is thrown across the
+horse's back, and made fast to the load. The mother mounts to the top of
+the pack, resting her feet on the horse's neck, and armed with a cudgel,
+with which she vigorously belabors the beast, right and left. The
+pappooses, not liking the quarters assigned to them, set up a general
+squalling. Mothers and maiden aunts join in full chorus, drawling out,
+at the top of their voices, "Hōrī! mutty, mutty! Hōrī! mutty, mutty!"
+without the least change, to the thousandth repetition. All these
+arrangements are made with remarkable celerity--in thirty minutes not a
+tent is left standing, but the whole tribe, their tenements and
+chattels, wives and brats, are all packed upon horses, and the motley
+cavalcade moves off like an army of beggars on horseback.
+
+[Illustration: BREAKING UP OF CAMP.]
+
+On the present occasion the movement was delayed, while we rode in
+search of something to eat. The chase was unsuccessful, scarcely enough
+being obtained to more than sharpen our appetites for dinner. The scanty
+meal being over, the whole company began their journey, which in its
+tortuous windings was not unlike that of the Israelites in the
+wilderness, but unlike that in the respect that we seemed to have no
+particular destination or object, except to explore new hunting-grounds,
+and gratify the capricious restlessness of the Indians. One very
+desirable end was answered,--we got enough to eat, as we were successful
+in killing a large quantity of game. The Indians, it was noticeable,
+were never at a loss to find their camps. So familiar did they seem with
+all their haunts and the general shape of the country, that though the
+surface presented to my eye scarcely any distinguishable way-marks, they
+would strike off from any point, however distant, and go with unerring
+aim straight to their tents. In returning laden with booty to our new
+homes, I was surprised to observe no indications whatever of water in
+the vicinity; a singular departure, at first sight, from their
+invariable custom, so far as I had noticed. Very soon the squaws issued
+from their huts, each with her leathern bucket. Curiosity prompted me to
+follow them a little way, when a spring was discovered, from which they
+had to dip the water with their ox-horn cups till the buckets were
+filled.
+
+About this time a new phase of life presented itself, to cast light on
+an important item of the social economy established in Patagonia.
+Looking out of our wigwam one evening just at dusk, I noticed an unusual
+concourse of Indians about two hundred yards distant. There were fifty
+or more, headed by one of the most ruffianly rascals in the tribe,
+marching in the direction of our lodge. I spoke to the chief about it,
+whereupon he went immediately to the back of the hut, and sat down on
+his little bed, his cutlass hanging beside him from a knot of one of the
+stakes. This he took down, laid it across his knees, and folded his
+arms. Something, I saw, was wrong. In anticipation of the worst that
+might befall me, I had found, a short time before, the handle of an old
+knife among the chief's trumpery, and also an odd blade; these I had put
+together, and the chief permitted me to carry it about my person, the
+only weapon he allowed me. I now planted myself on my knees beside him,
+and prepared to sell my life as dearly as possible, should the mob enter
+with evil designs towards me. The consciousness that I was in their
+power, and was sure to have the worst of any serious quarrel, made it my
+study to keep the peace with them as far as circumstances would admit;
+but there was a limit to my control of events, a very narrow limit,
+which I had constant reason to fear would be overborne by the impetuous
+hatred of my enemies, when nothing would be left but desperate
+resistance. Such a crisis seemed near, when the chief was himself
+reduced to a defensive attitude, and was indeed besieged in his own
+lodge.
+
+The motley throng surrounded the hut, their numbers constantly swelled
+by fresh arrivals; some were squat upon the ground, others peeping
+through the crevices. Presently one of the number addressed the chief,
+and the two conversed for some time in a low and unintelligible, but
+decided and emphatic tone. The crowd outside appeared to be a good deal
+excited, and kept up a continuous hum of rapid conversation. I looked
+and listened, with mingled curiosity and dread, while the chief repeated
+the same thing over and over again, in a firm, authoritative tone,
+tinged with anger. Unable to conjecture what was on foot, or to bear any
+longer the agony of suspense, I patted him familiarly on his naked
+breast, told him he had "a good heart," begged that he would not suffer
+the Indians to harm me. "You go sleep," was his answer; "no Indians come
+into this house to-night." I inquired what they were after, but no
+answer was vouchsafed, and he resumed his mysterious colloquy with the
+outsiders. The idea of sleeping under such circumstances was out of the
+question; I was wide awake, and bent on keeping so,--sorely bewildered
+at the strange goings on, and not a little terrified, but holding fast
+by my sole weapon of defence, and waiting a favorable opportunity to
+interpose another inquiry. The chief turned his head; and, perceiving my
+vigilance, repeated in an angry tone his injunction to sleep. This was a
+drop too much; and, clasping my arms about his dirty neck, patting his
+breast, and looking (with as confiding an air as I could assume) into
+his dull eyes, I begged him to speak to me, to tell me what these men
+wanted. "Do they want to break my head?"
+
+"The men don't want to hurt you," he said; "Indian wants a girl for his
+wife; poor Indian, very poor, got no horses nor anything else. I won't
+give him the woman."
+
+So speedy a descent from the height of my fears was not satisfactory; it
+was impossible to credit this explanation of such a formidable scene. I
+apprehended that it was a pure fiction, extemporized for the purpose of
+quieting me; but, as he seemed more communicative, I swallowed my
+doubts, and questioned him further. "What does poor Indian say?"
+
+"Says he'll steal plenty horses when we get where they are, and give the
+woman plenty of grease. Says he is a good hunter, good thief."
+
+These high titles to consideration did not seem to be admitted by the
+party they were offered to conciliate; on the contrary, the chief
+pronounced him a sleepy mink-skin of a fellow,--no thief at all; one
+that would never own a horse in the world. This opinion, which he was
+good enough to favor me with, he communicated to the party chiefly
+concerned, telling him that he was a poor, good-for-nothing Indian, he
+should not have the woman, and that was the end of it. After a little
+more jabber, and abundance of wrangling, the mob dispersed, much to my
+relief. Satisfied, by further conversation on the subject with old
+Parosilver, whose triumph over the mutiny had put him into better temper
+than usual, that the affair did not imminently concern my safety or
+welfare, I lay down to rest.
+
+In answer to further inquiries,--for I must plead guilty to a good deal
+of curiosity in respect of the poor Indian and his blasted hopes,--I was
+informed that without the chief's consent no marriage was permitted;
+that, in his judgment, no Indian who was not an accomplished
+rogue,--particularly in the horse-stealing line,--an expert hunter, able
+to provide plenty of meat and grease, was fit to have a wife on any
+terms. He never gave his consent for such lazy ones to take an extra
+rib; but, he very considerately added, all the difference it made was
+that some one else had to support the squaw till her suitor proved
+himself worthy, and acquired sufficient wealth to justify taking her to
+his wigwam; and, if he cared much for his _coury_, he would not be long
+in earning her; it would make him a first-rate thief,--the most
+indispensable title to favor in the tribe. It appeared that the
+possession of two horses, one for himself and one for his intended, was
+regarded as the proper outfit in a matrimonial adventure.
+
+The women are somewhat given to quarrelling among themselves; and, when
+their "combativeness" is once active, they fight like tigers. Jealousy
+is a frequent occasion. If a squaw suspects her liege lord of undue
+familiarity with a rival, she darts upon the fair enchantress with the
+fury of a wild beast; then ensues such a pounding, scratching and
+hair-pulling, as beggars description. The gay deceiver, if taken by
+surprise, slips quietly out, and stands at a safe distance to watch the
+progress of the combat, generally chuckling at the fun with great
+complacency. A crowd gathers round to cheer on the rivals; and the
+rickety wigwam, under the effect of the squall within, creaks and
+shivers like a ship in the wind's eye.
+
+While the _contract_ of marriage is so jealously regarded by the chief
+as to be subject to a veto in every case where a proposed match appears
+in his eyes unsuitable, the _ceremony_ is literally nothing at all. Due
+sanction having been given by the supreme authority, the bridegroom
+takes home his bride for better or worse, without any of the festivity
+which graces similar occasions elsewhere. About this time,--for, as I
+had no means of journalizing my experience, or even keeping the
+reckoning of weeks and months, it is quite impossible to assign
+dates,--a matrimonial transaction took place, accompanied by unusual
+solemnities. The rank of one party, and the extraordinary accessories of
+the occasion, will justify a particular notice of this "marriage in high
+life."
+
+One evening, the chief, his four wives, two daughters, an infant
+granddaughter, and myself, were scattered about the lodge, enveloped in
+a smoke of unusual strength and density. While the others sat around as
+unconcerned as so many pieces of bacon, I lay flat, with my face close
+to the ground, and my head covered with a piece of guanaco-skin, the
+only position in which it was possible to gain any relief from the
+stifling fumigation. While in this attitude, I fancied I heard the tramp
+of many feet without, and a confused muttering, as if a multitude of
+Indians were talking together. Presently a hoarse voice sounded in
+front, evidently aimed at the ears of some one within, to which the
+chief promptly replied. I caught a few words,--enough to satisfy me that
+I was not the subject of their colloquy, but that there was a lady in
+the case,--and listened curiously, without any of the fright which grew
+out of the previous negotiations. The conversation grew animated, and
+the equanimity of his high mightiness the chief was somewhat disturbed.
+I cast a penetrating glance into the smoke at the female members of our
+household, to discern, if possible; whether any one of them was
+specially interested. One look was sufficient; the chief's daughter
+(who, by the way, was a _quasi_ widow, with one hopeful scion springing
+up by her side) sat listening to the conversation, with anxiety and
+apprehension visible in every feature. Her mother sat near her, her chin
+resting upon her hand, with an anxious and thoughtful expression of
+countenance. The invisible speaker without, it soon appeared, was an
+unsuccessful suitor of the daughter, and had come with his friends to
+press his claim. He urged his suit, if not with classic, with "earnest"
+eloquence, but with success ill proportioned to his efforts. The chief
+told him he was a poor, good-for-nothing fellow, had no horses, and was
+unfit to be his son-in-law, or any one else's. The outsider was not to
+be so easily put off; he pressed his suit with fresh energy, affirming
+that his deficiency of horses was from want of opportunity, not from
+lack of will or ability to appropriate the first that came within his
+reach. On the contrary, he claimed to be as ingenious and accomplished a
+thief as ever swung a lasso or ran off a horse, and a mighty hunter
+besides, whose wife would never suffer for want of grease. The
+inexorable chief hereat got considerably excited, told him he was a poor
+devil, and might be off with himself; he wouldn't talk any more about
+it.
+
+The suppliant, as a last resort, appealed to the fair one herself,
+begging her to smile on his suit, and assuring her, with marked
+emphasis, that, if successful in his aspirations, he would give her
+_plenty of grease_. At this last argument she was unable to resist
+longer, but entreated her father to sanction their union. But the
+hard-hearted parent, not at all mollified by this appeal from his
+decision to an inferior tribunal, broke out in a towering passion, and
+poured forth a torrent of abuse. The mother here interposed, and
+besought him not to be angry with the young folks, but to deal more
+gently and considerately with them. She even hinted that he might have
+done injustice to the young man. He might turn out a smarter man than he
+had credit for. He might--who knew?--make a fine chief yet, possess
+plenty of horses, and prove a highly eligible match for their daughter.
+The old fellow had been (for him) quite moderate, but this was too much.
+His rage completely mastered him. He rose up, seized the pappoose's
+cradle, and hurled it violently out of doors, and the other chattels
+appertaining to his daughter went after it in rapid succession. He then
+ordered her to follow her goods _instanter_, with which benediction she
+departed, responding with a smile of satisfaction, doubtless
+anticipating the promised luxuries of her new home, the vision of which,
+through the present tempest, fortified her mind against its worst
+perils. Leaving the lodge, she gathered up her scattered effects, and,
+accompanied by her mother, the bridal party disappeared.
+
+The chief sat on his horse-skin couch, his legs crossed partly under
+him, looking sour enough. Presently the bride and her mother returned,
+and now began the second scene. The chief no sooner recognized them than
+a sound--something between a grunt and a growl, but much nearer the
+latter than the former, and in a decided _crescendo_--gave warning of a
+fresh eruption. The rumbling grew more emphatic, and suddenly his fury
+burst on the head of his wife. Seizing her by the hair, he hurled her
+violently to the ground, and beat her with his clenched fists till I
+thought he would break every bone in her body, and reduce her substance
+to a jelly. Perhaps I was a little hard-hearted, but she had been one of
+my bitterest enemies, and I had a feeling that if some of her ill-will
+to me could be beaten out of her, I could be easily resigned to her
+fate. The drubbing ended, she rose and muttered something he did not
+like. He replied by a violent blow on the side of her head, that sent
+her staggering to the further end of the hut. This last argument was
+decisive, and she kept her huge mouth closed for the night. There was a
+silent pause for some minutes, and, without another word, we ranged
+ourselves for repose. I thought the old heathen's conscience troubled
+him through the night; his sleep was broken, and he appeared very
+restless. Early the next morning he went to the lodge of the
+newly-married pair, and had a long chat with them. They thought him
+rather severe upon them at first; but, after a good deal of diplomacy, a
+better understanding was brought about. The young people could hardly
+get over a sense of the indignities they had received; but in the course
+of the day they returned, bag and baggage, to the old chief's tent, and
+made it their permanent abode.
+
+We now moved in a westerly direction, and on the way succeeded in
+capturing a good deal of game. Their mode of dealing with the carcass of
+the guanaco is enough to dissipate whatever appetizing qualities the
+meat--in itself very palatable--would otherwise possess. It was no
+uncommon circumstance, while the squaws were removing the hide, to see
+the dogs tugging at the other extremity, the women, meantime, crying out
+"Eh! Ah!" in a dissuasive, though not angry, tone. If the animals become
+too audacious, the ire of their mistresses is kindled, and they break
+out with "Cashuran cashahy!" a phrase equivalent to that which, in
+English, directs its object to a region unmentionable in ears polite.
+
+The Indians have, strictly speaking, no profane expressions. I never
+could learn that they worshipped or had any idea of a Supreme Being. The
+only observance which bore any aspect of religion was associated with
+something we should little think of as an object of adoration--the
+tobacco-pipe;--though, how far this is, in fact, an object of idolatry
+in Christian lands, it might not become me to speculate. The only
+occasions on which the Indians discovered any appearance of devotion
+were those of smoking. This may have been only a symptom of
+intoxication, but the reader may judge for himself.
+
+A group of a dozen or more assemble,--sometimes in a wigwam, sometimes
+in the open air. A vessel made of a piece of hide bent into a
+saucer-shape while green and afterwards hardened, or sometimes an
+ox-horn, filled with water, is set on the ground. A stone pipe is filled
+with the scrapings of a wood resembling yellow ebony, mixed with
+finely-cut tobacco. The company then lay themselves in a circle flat on
+their faces, their mantles drawn up to the tops of their heads. The pipe
+is lighted. One takes it into his mouth and inhales as much smoke as he
+can swallow; the others take it in succession, till all have become
+satisfied. By the time the second smoker is fully charged, the first
+begins a series of groanings and gruntings, with a slight trembling of
+the head, the smoke slowly oozing out at the nostrils. The groaning soon
+becomes general, and waxes louder, till it swells into a hideous
+howling, enough to frighten man or beast. The noise gradually dies away.
+They remain a short time in profound silence, and each imbibes a draught
+of water. Then succeeds another interval of silence, observed with the
+most profound and devotional gravity. All at length arise, and slowly
+disperse. Now, this may or may not have been a form of worship; but the
+circumstances attending it, the numbers uniformly engaged in it the
+formality with which it was invariably conducted, the solemnity of
+visage, the reverential grimace, the prostration, the silence, the
+trembling,--these, and traits of expression which are more easily
+discerned and remembered than described, gave me a decided impression
+that the whole had a superstitious meaning. The natural operation of the
+tobacco, and of the substance mixed with it, might explain part of the
+symptoms,--the writhing and groaning,--but these appeared to be a good
+deal in excess, and there were other features of the case which appeared
+to require another solution.
+
+I never asked any explanation. The mystery which savage tribes are so
+apt to throw around their religious rites, and their resentment at any
+unhallowed curiosity, I was not inclined to meddle with or provoke. If
+my conjectures were just as to the nature of this ceremony, inquiry
+might lead to unpleasant consequences. Ignorance appeared, on the whole,
+safer than knowledge of good or evil, gained at the risk of being caught
+trespassing on things forbidden. If any one thinks my precaution
+excessive, he is at liberty to take a different course whenever he finds
+himself in the jurisdiction of Parosilver, or any other Patagonian
+chief.
+
+The inquiry may arise, especially in the mind of the religious reader,
+whether I attempted to impart to my captors any knowledge of God, his
+attributes and laws. The answer is quite ready,--No, and for a variety
+of reasons. The writer did not understand enough of either Spanish or
+Indian to communicate intelligible ideas on any matters beyond the range
+of the senses, and Patagonia is pretty barren of sensible phenomena,
+which made my stock of words more limited than it might have been under
+more favorable circumstances. There was no finding "tongues in trees,"
+or "books in the running brooks;" the land possesses neither in numbers
+sufficient to be conversable. "Sermons in stones," even, must have been
+of very pebbly dimensions, and of no great weight. Had this difficulty
+been removed, I confess I had no great desire to surmount it. I was the
+object of suspicion and hostility. My life was in constant danger. To
+diminish, as far as possible, the causes of dislike, to mitigate their
+ferocious hate, to elude occasions of mischief, to delay what I feared
+could not be very long prevented, was my continual study. If the reader
+is not satisfied with this account of my conduct, I am sorry for it, but
+cannot afford any words of contrition. It is vastly easier, I may hint
+to the objector, to prescribe another's duties than to judge of one's
+own, especially where the two parties are in circumstances so widely
+differing. The Patagonians need the gospel--and the law--as much as any
+people I could name from personal observation. There was no trace of
+instruction imparted at a previous period, and the reception
+Christianity would meet with among them is yet to be discovered.
+
+Their pipes are made of a hard red stone, the bowl dug out with whatever
+iron or steel implement is at command to the dimensions of an ordinary
+clay pipe, the stem about an inch square, and three inches long, with a
+small perforation. A copper or brass tube, about two inches long, is
+fitted to the stem, and serves as a mouth-piece. This is made by bending
+or hammering a metallic plate about a small round stick, and soldering
+or cementing it with a glutinous substance thickened with earth.
+
+The copper, brass and iron, seen among them, was probably procured from
+unfortunate vessels wrecked on their coast. I was informed by Captain
+Morton, of whom the persevering reader will know more hereafter, that he
+had touched at Sea Bear Bay for a harbor, and saw there great quantities
+of iron pumps, ships' hanging knees, and other gear, from wrecks of
+vessels of all sizes. As he was bound for the land of gold, he thought
+it scarcely worth his while to collect the baser metals. Had he been
+homeward bound, he might have obtained a valuable cargo.
+
+As ornaments, bits of brass and copper, of silver and German silver,
+have a high value among the Indians, and when the metals are plenty such
+adornment is very common. The children's shoes have small oval pieces
+sewed on in front, and they appear on other parts of their dress. When
+scarce, they are more seldom seen. Blacksmithing in Patagonia is
+something of the rudest. Two hard flat stones do duty, the one as anvil,
+and the other as hammer. Of the effect of heat in making the metals
+malleable, and of the art of tempering, the people have no knowledge. To
+make a knife, they take a piece of iron hoop, or iron in any practicable
+shape, and hammer away upon it at a provokingly slow rate. Their blows
+are not heavy enough to do much execution; but they keep up a constant
+tap, tap, tap, hour by hour, till the iron is flattened to the required
+shape and dimensions. It is then rubbed on a smooth stone till it is
+worn down to an edge, and finally inserted into a wooden handle.
+Sometimes melted lead is poured into the handle, but lead appeared to be
+a scarce commodity. All mechanic arts, if they deserve the name, are in
+an equally rude and primitive stage. The simplicity of these people's
+ideas is indeed extraordinary. In invention or constructiveness they are
+babes. A Yankee boy, six years old, would be a prodigy among them,--a
+miracle of genius.
+
+An opportunity was afforded, while in camp, to see some specimens of
+their tailoring or mantua-making achievements;--either term is
+appropriate, as the male and female dress do not differ in form, and but
+slightly in the mode of adjustment. The mantle or blanket is worn around
+the shoulders; those of the women are fastened together by the corners
+under the chin with a stick for a pin; the men hold theirs around them
+with their hands, except that when hunting they tie a string around the
+waist.
+
+The skins of young guanacos are selected for mantles, on account of the
+superior fineness and softness of the hair. Nearly a dozen skins are
+used for a single mantle, as a large part of each is esteemed unfit for
+use, and thrown away. The skins, while green, are stretched to their
+utmost tension on the ground to dry. When partially dried, they are
+scraped on the inside with a stone sharpened like a gun-flint, sprinkled
+the while with water, to facilitate the operation. When the surface is
+made tolerably smooth, and of a pretty uniform thickness, it is actively
+scoured with a coarse-grained stone, till it has a bright polish. The
+skin is again dried, then crumpled and twisted in the hands till it
+becomes perfectly soft and pliable. The thread, as has been stated, is
+made from the sinews of the ostrich. These are extracted by the exertion
+of great strength, and divided into strings about the size of ordinary
+shoe-thread. They are then twisted, the ends are scraped to a point, and
+when dry become stiff; they are now ready for use.
+
+Two pieces of skin are cut to fit each other. The tailoress (for all the
+work, from the curing of the skins to the last results, is done by the
+squaws) holds the edges together with the left hand, and drills them for
+sewing with a sharpened nail, held between the first two fingers of the
+right hand; the pointed thread, held between the finger and thumb, is
+inserted and drawn through, and so the work goes on. The stitches are
+tolerably fine, and a very neat seam is made. Other pieces are added,
+and when the whole is finished the seams are rubbed smooth with a bone.
+The fur being worn inside, there remains the work of outside decoration.
+With a due quantity of clay, blood, charcoal and grease, amalgamated for
+the purpose, the artist arms herself with a stick for a brush, and
+executes divers figures in black, on a red ground; which, if intended to
+shadow forth men, require a vigorous imagination to detect the purpose.
+They might pass for unhappy ghosts (if a little more ethereal in
+composition), or for deformed trees. They bear a rude resemblance to a
+chair in profile, or a figure 4; and are thickly disposed over the whole
+surface, in the attitude sometimes vulgarly termed "spoon-fashion." The
+garment is now complete; the edges are carefully trimmed with a knife,
+and the fabric is thrown over the shoulders, with the infallible
+certainty of fitting as closely as the native tastes require. There is
+no trial of patience in smoothing obstinate wrinkles. A "genteel fit" is
+the easiest thing in the world; wherein Patagonian tailors have
+decidedly the advantage of their fellow-craftsmen in civilized lands.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase.
+
+
+At our next halt we encamped in a deep, swampy valley. The weather was
+cold and stormy; rain, snow, sleet and hail, fell alternately, but did
+not accumulate on the earth to any considerable depth. Fitful gusts of
+wind came sweeping through the camp, making the wigwams shake fearfully.
+Our old lodge gallantly rode out the gale; but, either owing to its
+straining and working in the storm, or to some defects in the original
+structure, leaked shockingly all night. I was repeatedly awakened by a
+stream of cold water running under me. Giving the skin roof a few knocks
+to lighten it of its watery burden, and shaking the wet skin which
+constituted my couch, I would throw myself down, and resign myself to
+repose; but before quiet was fairly restored, another inundation would
+drive me to my feet. The night wore away with me, wet, cold and
+sleepless. After daybreak I rose, and continued for two hours in
+vigorous exercise to restore warmth to my chilled frame, before the
+Indians were astir. Fires were then kindled, and matters began to
+assume a more cheerful appearance.
+
+The weather, quite cool on my first landing, had grown gradually colder,
+and was becoming inclement. I was scantily prepared to endure the
+severity of winter. My under-garments, as before related, were
+desperately expended in trying to signal passing vessels. Cravat and
+pocket-handkerchief were appropriated to the adornment of the women in
+our household, to the no small envy of less favored ones. My sole
+article of linen was in shreds, and of a color that would afford matter
+for speculation to a jury of washerwomen. Stockings and shoes were sadly
+dilapidated; coat and trousers were glazed with dirt and grease till
+they shone like a glass bottle. The contents of my pockets were all
+confiscated,--purse, keys, knife, &c.,--and a pair of pistols, of the
+use of which my captors knew nothing, were taken to pieces, and the
+brass mountings suspended about the necks of the chief's wives. In
+short, my outer man was nigh unto perishing, and I had no visible
+resources to arrest or repair the process of time, while I was not
+sufficiently inured to the climate to adopt the native dress without
+serious risk to health. But none of these things were allowed to trouble
+me. I took no thought for the morrow, but, according to the scriptural
+injunction, suffered the morrow to take care for the things of itself,
+esteeming sufficient unto each day the evil thereof.
+
+At an early period of my captivity, the chief and some other Indians had
+cast a longing eye on my clothes, and tried to seduce me into parting
+with them. They offered no compulsion in the matter, but resorted to all
+manner of tricks. It seemed that they thought a white man could afford
+to go without dressing. I explained to them that, having always worn
+clothes,--having in infancy, even, unlike Patagonian piccaninnies, been
+externally protected against the fresh air,--it was quite impossible for
+me to change my habits without the hazard of my life; and, if I should
+die in consequence of yielding to their wishes, they were reminded they
+would lose the valuable ransom they expected for me. This reasoning
+proved convincing; greatly as they longed for my wardrobe, they more
+desired rum and tobacco, and I was permitted the undisturbed enjoyment
+of the scanty covering left me.
+
+The storm continued for two days and nights; on the third day it cleared
+up. About mid-day, observing a crowd of Indians together with a huge
+jargon of tongues, I learned, on inquiry, that a horse was to be killed;
+a matter which, it appeared, was always the occasion of a solemn powwow.
+On reaching the spot, a poor old beast, lean and lank, with a lariat
+about his neck, stood surrounded by some fifty Indians. The squaws were
+singing, in stentorian tones, "Ye! Ye! Yup! Yup! Lar, lapuly, yapuly!"
+with a repetition that became unendurable, and drove me to a respectful
+distance. The horse's fore-legs were fast bound together, a violent push
+forward threw him heavily to the ground, and he was speedily despatched
+with a knife; anticipating, by a few days, the ordinary course of
+nature. Soon after my return to the wigwam, a huge portion of the
+carcass was sent to our quarters and hung up, to furnish our next meals!
+After being duly dressed by the women, with the aid of the dogs, and
+scorched and smoked according to usage, it was served up,--my only
+alternative to starvation. Famine has no scruples of delicacy; if the
+reader is disgusted, he is in a state of sympathy with the writer.
+
+Early the next day we (literally) pulled up stakes, and were on the
+move; and, after journeying all day, encamped in a situation very like
+the one we left in the morning. The Indians spent their time, as usual,
+in gambling and in combing each other's hair, with a brush made of stiff
+dry roots, tied up together. The operator received as a fee the _game_
+captured in the process. The reader will excuse a more explicit
+statement of what, though less abominable than cannibalism, is hardly
+less repulsive.
+
+One evening our family circle were seated round a fire, which sent up
+volumes of smoke sufficiently dense to suit a savage of the most
+exacting taste, and which drove me, as usual, to the back part of the
+hut, where I lay flat on my face. One of the chief's wives was
+inveighing against me, as was her wont, and a second occasionally joined
+in the strain, by way of chorus. A third was cracking the bones of a
+guanaco, that her son Cohanaco might eat the marrow. The fourth and last
+of the women was attending to a piece of meat for our supper, fixed on a
+forked stick, in the smoke. Two sons were engaged, as usual, in doing
+nothing, except occasionally begging a little of the marrow, and
+scraping their dirty legs with a sheath-knife, by way of diversion;
+sundry by-plays, and little pieces of mischief, served to fill up the
+spare minutes. The old chief, who had been silently regarding the scene,
+now commenced talking, in a low, mumbling, guttural tone, to one of his
+wives. She was busily eying the toasting-fork, and studying the process
+of cooking; but, at her husband's instance, left them, and drew from
+their repository of tools a sharpened nail fixed in a wooden handle,
+like an awl. The chief stretched himself on the ground, face downwards;
+a surgical operation was plainly impending. What could the matter be?
+Had the chief, in the excess of his plumpness, burst open, like ripe
+fruit, requiring to be sewed up? I drew my head from beneath the
+protection I had provided against the smoke, and rose on my knees, to
+get a better view; the huge, black, greasy monster lay extended at his
+full length, his wife pinched up the skin on his back, pierced it with
+her awl, and continued the process till a number of perforations were
+made, from which the blood oozed slowly. I asked the meaning of this
+operation, and was told by the chief that he had pains in his back, for
+which this was the best remedy. Blood-letting, it seemed, is no monopoly
+of the faculty. I told him that in my country we applied, in such cases,
+a liquid called opodeldoc, an infallible remedy, and promised to procure
+him some when we got to Holland. This was henceforth added to my list of
+inducements.
+
+The old fellow righted himself, and leaned against one of the pillars of
+his palace; one of his partners pulled up the toasting-fork, and jerked
+the half-roasted and more than sufficiently smoked meat upon the ground,
+seized the knife which the boys had been playing with, and cut the mess
+into liberal pieces, which were thrown broadcast on either side. The
+chief's appetite did not appear to be affected either by his
+indisposition or by the extraordinary remedy applied; his portion of the
+_cárne_ disappeared behind his great white teeth with a haste that
+seemed to involve no waste.
+
+Rheumatic affections, they told me, are very common among them; the
+chief showed me the arm of one of his wives, which was scarred from the
+wrist to the shoulder by the awl; and the operation was afterwards
+performed on other members of the family.
+
+Again we took up the line of march, travelling, as near as I could
+judge, west-north-west, and killing a quantity of game, both guanaco and
+ostrich. But the hardship of my life, aggravated by a constant flesh
+diet, and that eaten half raw, and at irregular seasons,--often going
+two days without food,--had, by this time, brought on a dysentery. This
+was no more than I had expected; but I knew of no remedy, and had to
+endure it as I could. We encamped, on the second day, near the banks of
+the river Gallegos; a fine spring of water issued from the river-bank
+into a low marshy ground, skirting the margin of the stream. By this
+time my illness had increased, till I felt unfit to travel further, and
+began to think that death could not be distant. No change of diet was
+practicable, and there was nothing to counteract its effect on my
+system. The pain and weariness of travelling did their part to aggravate
+the disorder; and mental discouragement--the sickness of hope
+deferred--completed my prostration. No human being in that desolate land
+cared for my sufferings, more than they would for those of a dog. Worn
+out with the constant irritations of a state of existence odious to
+every sensibility, tired and disheartened, but for one thought I could
+have gladly laid myself down to die, to get at once and forever beyond
+the reach of my savage tormentors. The thought of home, of wife and
+child, of friends and country, and all the unutterable emotions that
+respond to these precious names, at once tortured and strengthened me.
+These, and the thought that perhaps, after patient endurance, Divine
+Providence would restore me to the objects of my famished affections,
+made life still dear. These strengthened me to suffer and to strive.
+
+As I crawled out of the lodge, to look upon the sun, and breathe the
+pure air, and be refreshed by breezes untainted with the breath of cruel
+men, it came into my mind that some palatable or even tolerable species
+of plant or root would be wholesome for me. On looking about, there
+presented itself a specimen of large dock, such as is common in the
+United States; a weed of humble pretensions, but why not worthy of a
+trial? With what strength remained at command, I began a process of
+"extracting roots," with good success. Taking a quantity into the hut,
+and roasting them in hot ashes, they were found to be not distasteful; I
+filled my pockets with them, and abandoned flesh-diet for a little time,
+to the sensible, though gradual, relief of my sufferings. Fortunately we
+had a season of bad weather, which prevented any advance movement for
+four or five days, and gave me time partially to recover strength. I
+could not sooner have kept my seat on a horse; and, if the alternative
+had been presented, the Indians, as I very well knew, would sooner have
+knocked me on the head than have allowed me to hinder their march for a
+day. A powwow was held over another horse, unserviceable alive, and
+therefore marked for diet; but this time I did not compete for any part
+of his carcass, my pocket-stores being quite sufficient, and more
+attractive. But in the fate of the poor beast I read a warning to
+myself, to make haste and get well enough to move at the first signal.
+
+Away again,--this time facing about, and passing down the river. I
+needed rest; but, at whatever expense of suffering, needs must when a
+certain old gentleman drives. At the next stopping-place my services
+were called into requisition in a new department. One forenoon, as I
+sauntered towards our wigwam, after a stroll among the smutty huts, to
+kill time and divert painful thoughts, I was hailed from within by the
+chief, "Arke, Boney!" On entering, he appeared to be conversing, in low,
+gurgling sounds, with his lately-married daughter, who was running her
+hands through the shaggy hair of her young hope, as she talked.
+Something was plainly wrong in the youngster's top-knot, and some
+unpleasant task in relation thereto was as plainly about to be imposed
+upon me. The chief resolved my doubts, by ordering me to cut off a
+portion of the shag; I objected a want of the proper implements, but the
+mother silenced me by producing an old pair of scissors, in no condition
+to cut anything. Calling for a file, the rusty edges were brought into a
+tolerable state, and I approached the task. Such a sight! If the hair
+now would have obeyed a mesmeric pass, without the need of manual
+contact,--if the job could be performed with closed eyes, and insensible
+nostrils, and absent mind! Faugh! I hurried through the penance, hiding
+disgust, and assuming the appearance of good will, and made good my
+escape into the fresh air. And so I must turn barber, and, in all
+likelihood, have the dirty heads of half the tribe put under my nose!
+What would come next?
+
+Our next move took us across the river Gallegos, in shoal water, barely
+up to the horses' knees. The current was rapid, and masses of floating
+ice were swept along with it. When half way across, my horse took
+fright, reared, and, in attempting a sudden turn, precipitated me into
+the water, and fell heavily upon me. The ducking and the bruise together
+were severe, and, among other disasters, the crystal of my watch was
+broken by the shock. This I had kept carefully secreted, as a last
+resort, to amuse the savages when other expedients should fail,--when
+memory and invention could yield no more tales, when promises should
+have become threadbare with repetition, and when pretensions of
+greatness at home should have lost their power by the every-day
+disclosure of present weakness and humiliation.
+
+We--that is to say, myself and the old horse--kicked and floundered a
+while in the cold water, till at last the creature succeeded in rising,
+and I followed his example. We waded ashore, dripping, amidst the
+uproarious laughter of the whole troop. Once more mounted on my
+Rosinante, we resumed our line of march. The chill from my cold bath so
+benumbed me that I had to dismount and lead the horse, to recover, by
+brisk walking, some portion of animal warmth. Our course was down the
+river towards the Atlantic. Being unsuccessful in the chase, we pitched
+our tents at night, supperless, and without prospect of breakfasting the
+next morning. A small fire was lighted, which I hugged as closely as
+possible, to thaw my stiffened limbs; and then, cold, wet and hungry,
+fagged to extremity, cast myself on the ground, to repose as I might.
+The next morning was stormy. It cleared up in the afternoon, and the
+Indians sallied out to find some food. My only refreshment before their
+return was a little grease, which one of the squaws scooped out of an
+ostrich-skin with her dirty thumb and finger. It was so black that its
+pedigree--whether guanaco, ostrich or skunk, or a compound gathered at
+random from beast and bird--was a problem defying solution; but famine
+is not fastidious, and I swallowed greedily what, a few months before, I
+should hardly have thought fit to grease shoes with. The men came back
+with a few ostriches and skunks. The chief received as his portion one
+of the quadrupeds. The associations connected with its name, as related
+to one sense, were not adapted to prepossess the others in its favor;
+but I made shift to do justice rather to the Indian than to my habitual
+tastes.
+
+During the three days we remained here, the long-concealed watch was
+brought to light. The filth of the natives, the condition in which their
+huts and their persons were always suffered to remain, the swarms of
+vermin they housed, had imposed upon me extraordinary care to prevent
+the natural results upon my own person; but no amount of precaution was
+sufficient to avert them. The reader will excuse me from speaking more
+particularly on this head. Enough to say that I found myself intolerably
+tormented. The chief ordered an examination of the case, and sent for an
+Indian to deal with it according to their art. While divesting myself of
+my garments, one by one, for this purpose, the old fellow caught sight
+of the hidden treasure. I knew that it was useless to attempt any longer
+to retain it, and handed it over. He was vastly pleased with it. I wound
+it up, and put it to his ear. He was as delighted at the unexpected
+sound as a child with its first rattle. I explained its use in keeping
+the hours of the day, but he cared for nothing but the ticking. The
+breaking of the crystal was explained, and he was informed that another
+should be procured as soon as we reached "Holland,"--another inducement,
+I hoped, to speed our passage there.
+
+The inspection disclosed a state of the cuticle which would be thought
+dreadful in a civilized land. The chief, however, looked as calm as
+beseemed a surgical examiner, and in a good-natured guttural exchanged a
+few words with his assistant, who placed himself by my side, and fixing
+his eyes steadily upon me, begun swinging his hands and howling like a
+wild beast. The comparison was not far out of the way, for he gave a
+sudden spring, fastened his teeth on my neck, and commenced sucking the
+blood, growling all the while like a tiger! For a moment I thought my
+hour had come. I weaned the rascal as soon as possible, not knowing what
+his taste for blood might come to, if too freely indulged. It seemed
+like a refinement upon cannibalism, but was, in fact, as I soon
+ascertained, the regular treatment made and provided by Patagonian
+science for the relief of severe cutaneous affections.
+
+The chief, all this while, recurred with undiminished pleasure to the
+ticking of his new toy. When his curiosity had at length abated, he
+returned it to me. I wrapped it carefully in a rag, and enveloped it
+afterwards in a young colt's skin provided for its reception, when, by
+direction of its present august proprietor, it was suspended among other
+valuables from one of the stakes of the hut, near the spot where his
+highness customarily reposed. It was not, however, allowed long to
+remain quiet. I was ordered to take it down and hold it to the ears of
+all the visitors to the lodge. Forty times a day it had to come down for
+this purpose, till I got so tired of my showman's duty that I wished
+the watch in the bottom of the sea. The Indians, as they listened to its
+vibrations, would stand in every attitude of silent amazement, their
+eyes dilated, their countenances lighted up in every feature with
+delighted wonder, and then break out in a roar of hoarse laughter, the
+tone of which strangely contrasted with the infantile simplicity of
+their demeanor. The business was dreadfully annoying, and yet it was
+plain that a new and almost unbounded power affecting my destiny was
+hidden in that little machine. It had captivated the chief, and struck
+an awe over the tribe like the rod of an enchanter. Whether it boded
+good or evil, was another question.
+
+Our next move took us in a west-north-west direction, and in our
+progress we not only secured abundant game of the ordinary varieties,
+but encountered and killed a young lion,--to use the popular term,--the
+first living specimen I had seen in the country. I had seen their skins
+in possession of the Indians, and heard stories of their chase. This was
+a youthful creature, about the size of a well-grown calf of six weeks. I
+was riding side by side with the chief across a piece of low bushy land,
+when the dogs gave token that they scented something uncommon. We
+halted, and the chief cried out to the dogs, "Chew! Chew!" They were off
+in a jiffey, rushing hither and thither through the bushes, barking
+furiously, and soon drove the beast from his covert. Other Indians, a
+little distance off, ascertaining what was in the wind, made after the
+game with a reinforcement of dogs. The chase began in good earnest.
+Horses, riders and dogs, from all points of the compass, were scampering
+to the scene of action, hallooing, barking, howling, enough to frighten
+any unsophisticated lion out of his senses. Some were running full tilt,
+to cut off his retreat; while the hunters, bareheaded, leaning forward
+in their saddles and urging their horses to their utmost speed, whirled
+the bolas about their heads and let fly with a vengeance, with no other
+effect than to arrest the furious animal, and cause him to turn in
+desperation on the dogs, and drive them back yelping with pain. Others
+of the pack, watching their opportunity, would spring upon his back and
+fasten their teeth in his flesh. He brushed them off with a single
+stroke of his paw, as if they had been flies, and was again in motion,
+halting occasionally to give fight to his nearest assailant. Now and
+then the bolas is hurled at him, but his lithe limbs, though sometimes
+entangled, are not fettered by it, and his prowess is hardly diminished.
+The Indians press around him; the battle waxes fiercer; his whole
+strength is taxed. "Chew! Chew!" roar the savages; the flagging dogs
+return fresh to the onslaught, and, after a hard and unequal contest,
+the animal is fairly overborne by numbers, and despatched by the blows
+of the Indians. I had kept in the vicinity, but yet at a respectful
+distance, and now rode up to view the slain, amidst the howlings of the
+wounded dogs and the boisterous laughter of the hunters. It was a
+beautiful animal, with soft, sleek, silvery fur, tipped with black; the
+head having a general resemblance to that of a cat, the eye large and
+full, and sparkling with ferocity.
+
+After the Indians had eyed their game sufficiently, and talked and
+laughed and grunted their satisfaction, and congratulated themselves
+generally on their victory, and severally on the part each had taken,
+the body was driven off on the back of a horse, and the hunters again
+spread themselves over the country. Some ostriches were soon started up.
+The chief drew out his bolas, put spurs to his horse, and darted away.
+His mantle fell from his shoulders: his long, straight black hair, so
+coarse that each particular hair stood independently on end, streamed in
+the wind; his hideously painted face and body loomed up with grotesque
+stateliness, and the deadly missile whirled frantically over his head.
+The whizzing weapon is suddenly hurled at his victim, the chief still
+sitting erect in his saddle to watch its effect. His horse suddenly
+stops,--he dismounts nimbly, seizes the entangled bird by the throat,
+and swings it violently around till its neck is broken. As I rode up he
+deposited the great bird on my horse, remounted, and rushed in pursuit
+of another. That was killed and also placed in my keeping, making me a
+kind of store-ship. Others pursue the guanaco with equal success, till
+they are satisfied with their booty. We ride up to a convenient thicket,
+a fire is lighted, a portion of the prey is cooked and eaten, the
+remnants of the feast and the residue of the game are duly packed up,
+and the whole troop is under march for the camp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life.
+
+
+The chief occasionally made a speech to his subjects from the door of
+his lodge, wherein he invariably inculcated the duty of hunting
+industriously to procure meat, and a due supply of grease, for their
+families. He never had an auditor in sight, for his faithful lieges
+considered the speech from the throne a decided bore, and, if one
+happened to be passing, he was sure to dodge into the nearest hut till
+the infliction was over; but the leathern lungs of the orator could not
+fail to make him audible in many of the wigwams. In length his
+performances more resembled the official addresses of our republican
+rulers than those of his royal cousins of Europe, seldom falling short
+of a full hour. In style, they came nearer the proclamations of a crier.
+He would proceed in a monotonous rumble to the end of a sentence, and
+then defy contradiction by repeating several times, "Comole! comole!
+comole!" after which he paused, as for a reply. No one having the
+audacity to take up his challenge, he would go on croaking the same
+things with tedious iteration. After listening very patiently to one of
+his harangues, I inwardly applauded the taste of his subjects in getting
+as far as possible out of the reach of his voice.
+
+One forenoon, as I was beginning to feel impatient to move,--for every
+movement seemed to fan the flickering hope that we would soon reach a
+place affording some avenue of escape, and this restlessness always made
+camp-life doubly dismal,--the chief informed me that we should decamp
+that day. Preparations had commenced, when one of his daughters came in
+with a child crying at a tempestuous rate. The version which she gave of
+his complaints arrested the marching orders. A messenger was forthwith
+despatched for one skilled in the healing art. The physician soon
+arrived, armed with two small packages rolled up in pieces of skin,
+about a foot long and three or four inches in diameter, which I took to
+be his medicine-chest. He walked gravely in, laid down the packages, and
+squatted beside the mother, who held the little patient in her arms.
+Whatever his ailment might have been, his lungs could not have been
+impaired, for he was roaring like a young buffalo. Not a word was spoken
+for some time, the doctor all the while looking him very steadily in the
+eye. Then came a sudden calm, importing that the little fellow
+experienced some relief, or, more probably, that he was exhausted. The
+doctor ordered an application,--not of hot water, according to the
+prescription of Sangrado, but of a mortar made of clay. The clay was
+brought, the anxious mother worked it over with her two hands, spitting
+upon it to give it the requisite moisture, and having reduced it to the
+consistency of thick paint, bedaubed the little fellow from head to
+foot, giving him a decidedly original appearance. He evidently took
+umbrage at this unction, and discoursed in his shrillest tones till he
+was fairly out of breath. The medicine-chests were opened, but, instead
+of medicinal herbs, disclosed only a bunch of ostrich's sinews and a
+rattle eight or ten inches long. The physician commenced fingering the
+strings, and muttering almost inaudibly. This lasted four or five
+minutes, at the expiration of which he seized his rattle, and clattered
+away furiously for a minute or two, and resumed his place by his
+patient, eying him intently as before. He then turned with an air of
+importance to the chief, who had been crouching cross-legged on his
+couch, leaning forward, with his arms tightly folded on his breast, and
+watching anxiously the progress of the treatment. The man of skill broke
+silence: "I think he is better; don't you?" The chief nodded, and
+grunted assent. The same appeal was made to the mother, and received a
+like response. Another plastering was ordered, another burst of melody
+followed the application, the mysterious strings were again fingered,
+duly followed by the rattle. The parent and grandparent once more
+assented to the leech that the child was better. The chief took out a
+piece of tobacco, and cut off enough for about two pipefuls, which was
+tendered and gratefully accepted as a professional fee. The strings were
+tied up and replaced in their proper receptacle, and the rattle was
+shaken with hearty good will, whether by way of finale to the cure, or
+as a note of gratitude for the fee, or of triumph for success, could not
+easily be guessed. But the practitioner had scarcely evacuated the
+lodge, before his patient broke out more vociferously than ever; which
+I thought would somewhat shake the faith of his guardians in the
+treatment he had received. But no; their confidence in their medical
+adviser was not to be blown away by a breath, or even a tempest. They
+evidently regarded him as nearly infallible. His remedies were obviously
+aimed more at the imaginations of his spectators than at the body of his
+patient, but it was no concern of mine. Patients among us have to endure
+more disagreeable applications than wet clay. The noisy brat became
+quiet, to our great relief. He shortly appeared to be quite well, and
+continued to thrive for some time, as I had opportunity to witness.
+
+The tribe went ahead with alacrity, to make up for the loss of time this
+sickness occasioned. We moved off another day's journey towards nowhere
+in particular, and settled there at night. Then ensued another season of
+camp life, feasting and fasting, gambling and quarrelling, and venting
+superfluous wrath in an abundance of "Cashuran cashaly's." The chief was
+slightly indisposed, and I amused him with a description of the manner
+in which our physicians count the pulse of their patients. He listened
+with considerable interest, and sat thoughtfully ruminating on the
+matter. He came to an unexpected and alarming conclusion; putting this
+and my story of the _opodeldoc_ together, he made up his mind that I was
+a physician myself! I protested against this inference, fearing that no
+good would come of the responsibilities he was inclined to impose on me.
+But the disclaimer was useless,--he stuck to the opinion; and in no long
+time it was understood through all the tribe that I was a distinguished
+doctor.
+
+Now, it came to pass, at this critical turn of affairs, that a certain
+widow, of pretty ripe years for a Patagonian, was taken suddenly ill.
+Her husband had been murdered many years before by one of the tribe. She
+was possessed of several horses, and, in virtue of this wealth, held an
+aristocratic position in society. A messenger brought the tidings to the
+chief, who ordered me forthwith to set the watch, and go with him to her
+residence. I again assured him I knew nothing of sickness or medicine.
+He told me he knew better, and bade me come along without delay. There
+was no resisting his will, and I armed myself accordingly with the
+"ticking machine," and followed my master on my first professional
+visit. On approaching the widow's lodge, our ears were greeted with a
+hideous clamor, which momentarily increased as we neared the spot. A
+great crowd of Indians, of both sexes, surrounded the wigwam, severally
+and collectively making the most villanous noise ever heard. The crowd
+was dense, both within and without, but gave way for the chief and the
+great foreign physician to enter. The first order I gave was to stop
+their singing, whereat there was a silence so blank that the fall of a
+pin would have been audible,--that is, if there had been a floor for it
+to fall upon. With what dignity I could command, I walked up to my
+patient. There she lay, crouched on a bit of horse's skin, so withered,
+shrivelled and contracted, that it seemed as if a bushel-basket might
+have covered her, bed and all. I knelt by her side, drew forth the
+watch, grasped her by the wrist, and felt for her pulse. But, to my
+surprise, I could not feel it. I fussed and fumbled a long time, and
+finally arrived at the mortifying conclusion that I was so ignorant as
+not to know the position of the artery! The patient was frightened at
+so unprecedented a proceeding; but I succeeded in quieting her fears,
+though not, alas! in counting her pulse. However, it occurred to me that
+it was all one whether I did or not; so, keeping up an imperturbable
+gravity becoming my office, I continued for some time to look wisely at
+the watch, holding her wrist in profound silence. When I judged that a
+due impression had been produced on the awe-stricken spectators, I
+ventured to prescribe, not a clay plaster, for the patient was dirty
+enough, in all conscience; nor yet any compound of drugs, for I had none
+to administer; and as to roots and herbs, I durst not inflict upon her
+stomach substances of unknown properties; but, after a little thought, I
+ordered some water heated blood-warm, and the patient to be washed, and
+thoroughly scrubbed, from head to foot. This, I thought, met the most
+obvious indications of her case, as I doubt not a whole college of
+physicians, upon a superficial view, would have unanimously agreed.
+There could not have been a doubt as to the novelty of the prescription;
+the respectable relict, it is safe to say, had never been washed so
+thoroughly from infancy to that hour. Minute directions were given for
+the bath, that the scrubbing should be particularly smart and thorough.
+She was furthermore put upon a strict diet, excluding _grease_ and all
+such luxuries, and we slowly retired from the sick room.
+
+My solemnity was not affected,--far from it. Promotion from barber and
+showman to the dignity of physician to the chief, was too dangerous to
+be lightly considered. In fact, anxiety drove sleep from my eyes, and I
+fervently prayed for the recovery of the widow; fearing, from what I
+knew of the superstitions of the savages, that in case of her death I
+should be held responsible. In this particular case, as very soon
+appeared, I misjudged; but of the general principle I had startling
+confirmation.
+
+The widow was better,--my prescription worked to a charm,--but her days
+were shortened. Late one night, after we had all retired to rest, a
+ferocious-looking rascal came into the chief's lodge; he muttered a few
+words to the chief, who arose, and went with him to the front of the
+wigwam. They conversed in a low tone several minutes, and separated,
+apparently with mutual satisfaction. I sounded the chief cautiously in
+reference to the matter in hand. Calmly, and without reserve, as if it
+were a very ordinary transaction, he said that the savages wished to
+kill the widow, in order to possess themselves of her horses, which they
+wanted to eat. I asked no further questions, being fully satisfied that
+he connived at the dark deed, which was consummated without delay.
+Before this tragic result, I had taken pains to disabuse the mind of the
+chief as to my supposed medical skill, and was able to relieve myself of
+the dangerous and burdensome honor.
+
+Strange flesh was eaten by the Indians about this time; I was told it
+was _lion-meat_, but was not invited to partake of it. The same thing
+was observed several times; at times, too, when I was positive they had
+killed no wild animals without my knowledge, or which were not disposed
+of openly. The nature of my suspicions may be easily conjectured; yet I
+made no inquiries, in even the most casual manner, as to their
+disposition of their dead. It was painful to think of the atrocities,
+that were but too probably shrouded under the mystery they cast over
+these transactions. On one occasion, however, a young Indian, who could
+speak a few words of Spanish and English, told me that they had killed
+and eaten three men. Whether he meant to have me understand this as a
+singular case, or as a common action of the tribe, I do not know; I made
+no inquiries of him. In fact, the statement was volunteered by him; and
+so painful was the subject, that I left him abruptly, in the middle of a
+sentence.
+
+We again moved in a north-westerly direction, taking a goodly quantity
+of game on the route, and settled in a wretched, marshy spot. The wind
+was high, and made the tents quiver like a ship in a gale; a storm set
+in, beating through the roofs, drenching and chilling me through all the
+night. On the evening of the second day of our encampment here, an
+incident occurred which fearfully confirmed the wisdom of my decision to
+renounce all title to medical skill. As I was seated by the dying embers
+of a little fire, surrounded by our motley household, and tugging
+manfully at a bit of half-raw meat, which constituted my evening meal,
+while a large piece was in process of cooking over the fire, we were
+suddenly startled by a cry of distress, followed by the distinct alarm
+of _murder_. The chief drew back to the rear of his lodge, took down his
+cutlass, and ordered me back from the fire, which was at once
+extinguished by two of his squaws, while the other two ran to the door,
+and set up a loud, lamentable wailing. All the women throughout the camp
+were, in like manner, giving their voices to the air, and "making night
+hideous;" and not a male Indian ventured to show his head for an hour or
+more. It was to me an hour of fearful suspense, the agony of which I
+cannot describe. At last a man came and told the chief that a doctor
+had been murdered. He had visited a woman professionally, and treated
+her case with charms and spells, but his prescriptions effected no
+satisfactory result; and her husband went in a rage to his lodge, and
+stabbed him with repeated blows, to make the work of death more sure. It
+was a singular circumstance, that men capable of deliberate murder, and
+who had so recently, with the tacit or open sanction of the chief,
+strangled a woman for her horses, should have shown so much alarm at the
+cry of murder on this occasion. The victim was an enormously fat man,
+weighing, I should judge, nearly four hundred pounds. A horrible sight
+presented itself the next morning, on going out of our hut; the snow
+around the doctor's lodge was saturated with his blood. I drew back from
+the sickening spectacle, unable to look upon it with composure. Beyond
+their exhibition of stupid terror in the night, no notice was taken of
+the act; and about noon the camp broke up. We travelled till night,
+meeting with no success in the chase, and encamped on an extensive
+plain, near a good spring of water.
+
+It was an occasional diversion to watch the children at their sports, of
+which a favorite one was throwing ostriches' feet, with the sinews of
+the legs attached. The toes are cut off, and a pair of the feet are tied
+together, with a piece of sinew about a yard long. The children begin to
+practise the sport as soon as they are able to walk, and will continue
+the amusement all day; one boy throwing them into the air, and others
+throwing and hitting them as they fly, therein serving an apprenticeship
+to the grand manly accomplishment of hurling the bolas. Young Cohanaco,
+the chief's youngest son, appeared to excel all others; he was looked
+upon as a remarkably smart and very active lad; and, though he was six
+or eight years old, was not yet weaned! All the tribe fondled and
+caressed him; he would practise with the boys, often without any
+covering to his back, till excited and almost exhausted; then he would
+run into the lodge, take refreshment at his mother's breast, and
+speedily return to his sport.
+
+All this time _Holland_ was not forgotten, but the chief and his lieges
+were continually reminded of the urgent reasons for taking me there
+without delay; the presents which could only be obtained there, the
+fearful consequences of suffering me to come to harm, the great ships
+with the big guns, &c. &c., that would assuredly avenge me upon the
+whole tribe,--with what effect, beyond allaying present irritations and
+discontents that threatened me, it was impossible to determine.
+
+A novel sample of farriery offered itself to my observation one day,
+while hunting with the chief; my old horse, on a sudden, began to
+hobble, and very nearly gave out. I watched him some time, and jolted
+on, suffering somewhat from his uneven movements, but could not discern
+the occasion of the difficulty. On dismounting and examining his feet,
+nothing serious was perceptible, except that the hoofs were worse for
+wear, and broomed up a little. I remounted, and gave the poor creature a
+smart drubbing, to overtake his owner, if possible, and consult him on
+the case, which was one wherein I was content to defer to his wiser
+judgment. Sufficient steam was raised to bring us abreast of the chief,
+who, on hearing what was the matter, put spurs to his horse, and told
+me to come on--"Bueno caballo, se campo, campo." I tried to comply, but
+it was hard starting the beast, though I used up considerable wood to
+that end. The chief having got far in advance, and finding me
+desperately in arrears, hove to, and waited for me. I toiled on, and
+succeeded in working a passage to his position. He dismounted, inspected
+the horse's feet, and, directing me to wait his return, rode off. He
+soon reäppeared with a piece of guanaco-skin, which he tied securely
+about the hoof of the lame foot. I expressed some surprise at this
+method of shoeing horses; but he said, "Buenos zapatos,"--good
+shoes,--and the event confirmed his words. The lameness nearly
+disappeared, and we jogged on together without any further trouble.
+
+While at this camping-ground, the chief one morning arose in a towering
+passion at some words let fall by one of his wives, and exhibited
+another sample of the rigor of matrimonial discipline, very similar to
+that which graced the nuptials of his daughter. He gave her a tremendous
+beating, which seemed enough to kill her outright; but she took it very
+calmly, as a sort of necessary evil incident to the married state.
+
+Once more on the move, the squaws taking charge of the furniture and
+baggage, including the pappooses, and the men riding in advance as
+usual, to chase supplies for the larder. Game was scarce; we got a
+couple of ostriches and a skunk,--or a couple of skunks and an ostrich,
+I forget which, and it makes less difference to the reader than at the
+time it did to me. We cooked and lunched on the ground, and turned our
+faces homeward with the scanty remainder. The women were busy erecting
+the wigwams. The ground was frozen, and a large iron bolt, doubtless
+from some wreck, served as a crowbar to dig holes for the stakes. The
+encampment was on a hill-side, near a low swamp, which furnished
+abundance of water, such as it was.
+
+We had scarcely settled down, and I was dreading the stagnant monotony
+of camp life, when dulness was dispelled in a most unwelcome manner.
+Knots of Indians could be seen in murmuring conversation, whose glances
+betrayed the bent of their passions. They were again getting impatient
+of my life, and caresses and flattery were of no avail to stem the
+rising tide. On the evening of the third day, I was summoned out of the
+lodge by the chief, and followed him in silence, with a trembling
+presentiment of evil. He led me to a spot where twenty or thirty leading
+spirits in the tribe sat ranged in a circle,--the fatal ring was once
+more set to ensnare me! Once I had escaped. Was it possible to effect a
+second escape? Everything said no. The chances seemed a hundred to one
+against it. What had I left unsaid, to tempt their cupidity, to excite
+alarm, to make them value my safety or dread the effects of harming me?
+I could think of nothing, and the dismal prospect benumbed every faculty
+of my soul. But, as I entered the ominous circle, an access of fresh
+strength, the courage of desperation, enabled me to bear up with energy
+against perplexity and fear; to resolve that I would meet them with a
+steadfast eye and an inflexible mind,--a force which, though springing
+out of weakness, should prove stronger than their utmost malice.
+
+Having seated myself near the chief, the consultation began and
+proceeded much as before, but with increased vehemence. Their
+demonstrations were alarming, but, to my joy, the chief took the same
+view as in the former council. Would he be able to restrain their savage
+tempers? His power was great, but there was a limit to its effect, and I
+feared. In my turn I sought to enforce his views, by arraying all the
+motives invention could produce, and was able to perceive that they had
+some weight. Again the matter was canvassed around the ring. There was a
+hesitation, as if they felt suspicious and unsatisfied. Then they began
+to cross-examine me; my promises were not explicit enough. What did I
+mean to give them? The answer did not content them; they wanted more.
+More or less made no difference to me, and I gave them assurance of all
+the good things they craved, when we should arrive at _Holland_. Another
+talk followed, and brought them to a pretty unanimous conclusion, that
+they would get the presents first, and _decide my fate afterwards_;--a
+"squeeze-your-orange-and-throw-it-away" policy, in which these rascals
+seemed to be remarkable adepts.
+
+The natives had no idea that I could understand their talk, and I was
+not at all eager to display my acquisitions. In fact, though unable to
+speak their jargon, my ear had become pretty well trained to interpret
+it, while my scraps of half Spanish enabled me, without suspicion, to
+hear, mark and digest, much of their conversation. This was, in part,
+acquired in teaching some of them, the youth especially, to speak
+English and to count,--a pursuit in which I engaged partly for their
+benefit, and partly for my own. Besides aiding me in learning their
+language, it tended, so far as it diverted their attention, to keep
+mischief out of their heads, after the manner in which constant
+employment maintains order in a ship's crew. It added to my knowledge
+of their character and ways of thinking, so that, in dangerous
+emergencies, I was able to detect the first symptoms of evil. More than
+once it enabled me to elude or to nip in the bud dangerous conspiracies,
+which, if they had gone further, might have proved fatal to me.
+Circumspection made self-possession more easy. I will confess--though
+the narrative may have made confession needless--that I am naturally
+timid, and inclined to the better part of valor. Yet somehow--God
+helping me--I early learned to hide my constitutional timidity under a
+show of fearlessness, even in circumstances of great peril. More than
+once, when a savage drew his knife at me, have I looked him in the eye
+and disarmed him by a laugh; perhaps laying hold of the instrument of
+death, trying its edge and praising its qualities, till its owner was
+shamed into quiet. One piece of English that tickled the chief was the
+title of "Old Boy," with which (from a conviction of its
+appropriateness) I early honored him, and which he appeared to relish as
+much as if I had called him "His Majesty."
+
+The council, to my great relief, at length broke up, and I returned to
+my wretched shelter. The chief pointed to my bed, and bade me lie down.
+I complied, not to sleep, but to adore the Providence that had twice
+rescued me as from the very jaws of death, to reflect on the past and to
+speculate on the future. The excitement of the evening kept me wakeful,
+and the night wore away and the morning dawned, without sleep for a
+moment visiting my eyes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists.
+
+
+From this point we moved again in a north-westerly direction, finding
+game more plenty, and among other animals captured a species of fox, the
+first I had seen in the country. The camping-ground selected was a waste
+more desolate than had yet greeted my sight, even in Patagonia,--a low
+marsh, surrounded by sand-hills destitute of even the semblance or
+vestige of vegetation, past or present. The horses were let loose to
+solve the problem of existence as they could, while my landladies, with
+their canine assistants, served up a skunk and two ostrich-legs for
+supper. I thought myself fortunate at getting so ample a meal, having
+been on short allowance the preceding day.
+
+Here a new torture was inflicted. There had been abundance of voluble
+hatred against me, as I had too good reason to know, but it was around
+and behind me. Now, presuming, doubtless, on my ignorance of their
+language, they came to utter their bloodthirsty thoughts in my presence.
+At night, before retiring, the women began to talk against me, as
+usual; which never gave me much uneasiness, female opinion not having
+much force, I suspected, in affairs of state. Two of them had always
+appeared to bear me a mortal grudge, for what cause I could not
+conjecture, unless they thought I took up too much of his highness'
+time, or exerted too much influence over him. But, on the present
+occasion, the conference was enlarged by the entrance of two or three
+visitors, whose only errand seemed to be to give the chief gratuitous
+advice touching the disposal of my person. Though perfectly
+comprehending the drift of their remarks, I looked as stupid as
+possible, and bent myself to caress and flatter the old fellow with more
+than common servility;--patting his breast, telling him what a big, good
+heart it contained, calling him my _compadre_, and myself his child, his
+_piconine_, his _muchacho_. So deep was my abasement! To talk of the
+goodness of a heart beating with cruelty and black with crime! To call
+that black, greasy, depraved monster my father, and myself his dutiful
+and affectionate son! It is humiliating to speak of this;--what, let the
+reader imagine, must it have been to feel it! The bruised reed was
+well-nigh broken. The courage that sustained me in sharp trials was
+frittered away piecemeal by incessant irritation. Hope, that kept me
+from fainting in the fatal ring, vanished with the occasion that invoked
+it, and a bitter, consuming despair hovered over me. Then came dark and
+distracting thoughts of home, now more distant than ever, to stab my
+heart, already faint and bleeding. Again was sleep driven from me, but
+the night passed, and the blessed light of day stole upon me, as with a
+benediction from heaven.
+
+I arose and rushed into the open air to warm myself by exercise, and
+when the fire was lighted comforted myself by its kindly heat, and
+recovered a measure of buoyancy. But the day was wearily spent, and
+night brought the merciless gossips once more into the lodge. The two
+squaws led off with words of the most fiendish hate, urging that I
+should be summarily despatched, and gloating over anticipated vengeance.
+Tempestuous thoughts and sleepless hours had weakened me in body and
+mind. The fall of successive drops of water will madden the stoutest
+brain, and the drop too much had now lighted on my head. I was frenzied;
+strong passions, hitherto held in check, overmastered me. I rose, threw
+my cap violently on the ground, stamped, gnashed my teeth, and cursed
+without restraint. I shook my fists at them, defied their malice, and
+raved for several minutes, reckless of consequences. What was life to
+me? They were killing me by inches. Let them do their worst, no matter
+how soon. The chief was at first startled at such an explosion, and sat
+looking fixedly upon me, with a dark and clouded brow. It was fortunate
+that my rage was too impetuous to be contained within the bounds of my
+Indian-Spanish vocabulary, but breathed itself in good strong Saxon, so
+that speech could not betray me. For no sooner had the internal pressure
+been measurably relieved, than a sudden consciousness of error--fatal
+error--smote me with a new dread. What had I done? Where were my wits,
+that I should thus toss away life to gratify impotent anger? If my
+chance of life was worth little to myself, was it worth nothing to
+others, that I should so trifle with it? With returning sanity of
+feeling came also a hint of the way to repair my wrong. Without waiting
+for any questions or wordy explanations, I looked piteously at the
+chief, pointed to my head, and assured him it was disordered. I could
+not help my actions. I was sorry to make such an exhibition of myself,
+but it was all my poor head; and holding on to the poor head with one
+hand, I beat it reproachfully with the other, at the same time giving
+vent to some unearthly noises by way of corroboration. The old fellow
+looked rather dubiously at this change of scene, and asked if it was at
+them I shook my fists?--At them? No, no! they did not understand me. My
+heart was good, like his, but it was all my head, my poor naughty
+_cabeza_. Another thump on my cranium, and a second edition of the howl,
+proved sufficient. The plea of insanity was admitted; he expressed
+himself satisfied, and explained the incident to the amazed spectators.
+I drew a long breath with a returning sense of security, scarcely
+crediting the success of the artifice, and almost doubting whether the
+whole scene were not a dream. Real or unreal, it was over, and things
+were apparently on their former footing. Only my feminine foes would not
+be convinced, and added this crowning indiscretion to the list of my
+offences.
+
+We moved the next day in a northerly direction, and struck the river
+Santa Cruz, encamping about an eighth of a mile from its marshy banks,
+which, at this point, were bent in a broad, horse-shoe curve. We were
+surrounded, except on the river side, by high abrupt sand-banks, covered
+in part by underbrush of a stunted growth. The river was narrow, but
+deep and rapid. The Indians said it was the Santa Cruz, and that it led
+directly to "Holland;" but their lies about that same Dutch land had
+long since destroyed all faith in their words. That it was the Santa
+Cruz was probable, for I knew of no other river in these parts;--we had
+passed Corey Inlet and the Gallegos. The rest of the story I could only
+_try_ to credit. I tried to urge them on, but they were not to be
+hurried. Some of them grumbled that I had no intention of giving them
+anything, but meant to slip from them the first opportunity. No wonder
+they thought so; they certainly had not laid me under very great
+obligations of gratitude. What on earth they wanted of me, unless to fat
+and eat me, was past conjecture; and my fare had not been of a nature to
+induce corpulence, so that this supposition was not trustworthy. They
+_said_ they wanted me to help steal horses. They were bound for the Rio
+Negro, where they meant to steal seven hundred horses, of which number I
+was to get two. Certainly, I told them, it would be just the thing; and
+that was a most excellent reason for going to "Holland." They would find
+me a rare thief; but, however it might be with them, _I_ could not steal
+without a good stock of rum and tobacco. Was I insincere in all this?
+The reader may smile or may frown, but it was my purpose, if I failed to
+escape by way of "Holland," to humor them to the top of their bent; to
+ride, hunt, and even _steal_ my way into their confidence;--any way to
+insure present safety, and keep an eye open for future opportunities.
+
+Three or four days were passed in suspense, which was at last terminated
+by taking our line of march down the river. We halted at noon, at a
+point where the banks sloped gently to the water's edge, on either side
+of the deep and narrow channel. Active preparations were here commenced
+for crossing. Part of the horses were driven across the river, whilst a
+portion of the tribe were occupied in building boats to ferry their
+families and goods across. Their boats are constructed after a simple
+fashion. A quantity of bushes are cut and dragged down to the margin of
+the water. They take four tent-stakes, and lay them so as to enclose an
+area eight feet square, lashing them firmly together at the four
+corners. Four Indians then raise the stakes from the ground, while
+others place the skin covering of the tent over the frame, allowing it
+to sag down three or four feet. The edges of the skin are brought over
+the stakes, and fastened on the inside. The bushes, made ready for the
+purpose, are placed within, tops downward, round the entire
+circumference, and secured to the stakes, till the boat is completely
+timbered up. The bushes keep the skin distended, and give to the vessel
+an oval shape, so that, though square at the top, it bears a striking
+resemblance to a large iron pot. Its length and its breadth of beam are
+of course equal. When completed, it is firmly lashed from stem to
+sternpost, and from side to side, with a lariat, or green hide rope,
+forty feet long, to keep it from spreading or racking. I had no hand in
+modelling this witch of the wave, but, like an apprentice, did as I was
+ordered in forwarding the structure, and, when nothing else was
+required, "held on to the slack." It was at last completed, like the
+temple of Solomon, without the sound of axe or hammer; neither bolts,
+trenails nor caulking-iron, were required. We carried the barge down,
+and launched her in the stream. Two paddles were made by lashing two
+bladebones of the guanaco to sticks. Squaws, pappooses and baggage, were
+stowed away, till the boat was laden to the water's edge. I was directed
+to take passage with the family and household effects of the chief, and
+seated myself in the centre of the closely-packed craft. One end of a
+lariat was fastened to the boat, and the other tied to the tail of a
+horse. A savage mounted, with one rein attached to the wooden bit on the
+up-stream side. Two others took the oars, one on each side, and a squaw
+was stationed on the top-gallant forecastle for the purpose of singing,
+to insure good luck. All is ready. The old horse wades till the depth of
+water compels him to swim, and the boat is pushed off. The rider floats
+on the horse's back, kicking the water with his feet, holding the rein
+in one hand, and grasping the mane with the other. "Chew! chew!" he
+shouts, at the top of his voice. The black swan in the forecastle opens
+her capacious mouth and sings, "Yek yah, youri miti! yek yah, youri
+miti!" The two oarsmen dig away with might and main, while the younger
+fry swell the chorus with a "Yah! yah! yah!" The boat brings some heavy
+lurches to the windward, then yaws off to leeward; all owing to those
+lubberly oarsmen not meeting her with the helm in season. At length,
+after innumerable shiftings, we reached the opposite shore, and waded up
+on dry land.
+
+[Illustration: FERRYING THE SANTA CRUZ.]
+
+Several boats were constructed after the same unique model, and
+succeeded in crossing safely. Some of the horses, being better adapted
+to towing, were swam back to repeat the process, and our craft returned
+for a second freight. I watched the proceedings from the bank with
+intense interest, speculating on the probable consequences of an
+accident to any of the fleet. Such was their superstition, that, in the
+event of any ill befalling them, they would be quite likely to ascribe
+it to me, and serve me worse than Jonah was treated by his shipmates.
+The swiftness of the current, and the rudeness of their navigation,
+made them so liable to mischief, that it seemed wise to prepare for it;
+and I at once began ingratiating myself with two of the worst fellows in
+the whole tribe, by professions of special good will and admiration for
+them, and confidential hints that they would share more liberally in the
+bounties of "Holland" than any of their fellows. Whilst thus engaged,
+with cautious glances across the river, to make sure that all was right,
+I perceived that there was quite a commotion among the people below;
+some were springing upon their horses,--others, ready mounted, were
+dashing furiously down the bank. On looking some distance below, a boat
+appeared to be in distress; the lariat that bound it together had
+snapped asunder, and the pressure within, and the strain of the horse
+without, had broken the front stake; the horse, relieved of his freight,
+pulled for the shore, and could neither be coaxed nor beaten into a
+return to duty. The horsemen on the banks dashed into the stream, and
+swam for the wreck, which contained, among other passengers, a young
+child. It was already filled with water, and was partially turned on her
+side. The surface of the river was dotted with dark forms, struggling
+with the mad current; one horseman after another each grasped a floating
+object, and made for the shore. The craft had drifted nearly half a
+mile, and nothing could be made out very distinctly. The squaws, on
+first perceiving the mischance, watched the wreck, and sung in a loud
+and plaintive strain, all the while casting unfriendly glances at me,
+and gradually approaching the place where I stood. My apprehensions were
+so far confirmed by this movement, that I told John (the name I gave one
+of my present particular friends), as he loved rum and tobacco, and
+expected to get any, not to leave me. John saw at a glance what was in
+the wind, and appreciated both the immediate danger and the ultimate
+reward of averting it; namely, the privilege of being gloriously drunk
+at my expense. He told me to go into his hut, and pointed me to the
+furthest corner; where, I being duly ensconced, he took his station,
+cutlass in hand, directly in front of me. The singing grew louder, and
+the voices more numerous about the door; the song was their regular
+powwow strain, which invariably preluded the killing of a horse. The
+Indians began to enter the lodge, and looked unutterable things in the
+direction where I was crouching; the wigwam was soon filled with them,
+and they were beginning to crowd towards me, when old John opened upon
+them, and told them they ought to be ashamed of themselves, to come in
+there in that manner; they did not even know what had happened,--they
+did not know whether any lives were lost. They were threatening on
+account of the death of a child, when, for aught they knew, the child
+was alive; they had better wait patiently, till they knew more about the
+matter, before they made any further uproar about it. In this strain he
+parleyed with them for some time, till they concluded to retire,
+uttering, as they went, the most horrible sounds. I felt less relief
+from their absence than if John had not, by implication, fully assented
+that _if_ the brat was drowned, my life should answer for it. News soon
+came that the children were all safe, but that the boat was lost.
+
+An instant change ensued: the fire appeared to be quenched, but I feared
+it might break out at any moment afresh. Knowing their treachery, I kept
+a pretty suspicious watch on their movements; the chief soon came over
+the river, hurried, perhaps, in his movements by the accident, which he
+had witnessed from the opposite shore. After conferring with John, and
+giving him some instructions, and seeing that all was right, he
+reëmbarked for the other shore, as he made it his special business to
+see that all were passed across in safety. The ferrying ceased as night
+came on; the chief was likely to be on the opposite side all night, as
+there was a good day's work yet to be done before the whole would be
+transported. I had overheard him giving special orders to keep a good
+look-out on me during the night. I felt, however, some uneasiness in his
+absence; he had been my most powerful protector, having twice, at least,
+saved me from imminent death.
+
+I now began to revolve in my mind the possibility of escape; the thought
+suggested itself that I might steal one of their boats, and drift down
+the stream. I was long since heartily tired of captivity; my situation,
+especially if I was to be held a hostage of Providence for the safe
+ferriage of the tribe, was desperate. But, on second thought, I did not
+know that this was certainly the Santa Cruz; if it was, I was
+furthermore ignorant of our distance from the sea. I knew of no white
+settlement on or near the river; none, I remembered, was laid down in
+the chart; if such a settlement existed, I might hope to reach it in a
+_boat_, but a voyage in such a craft as one of these would be as
+hazardous as that of the wise men of Gotham. If there was no such
+settlement, and "Holland" was Patagonian for Utopia, my only chance,
+short of drifting in my leathern sack out to sea, would be to land on
+some island, in case an island there were; and then what should I live
+on, after landing? Berries I had never seen, except once or twice.
+Besides, my stolen craft could not be _paddled_,--the Indians had too
+good ears for that; I must follow the channel passively, through all its
+course, which was terribly crooked, while its rapidity increased the
+risk that the ungainly vehicle would be disabled. On the whole, it was
+so doubtful whether I could reach any particular place, or escape
+starvation after I got there, and so certain that failure would be
+death, the project seemed a forlorn hope. But then, again, it was not
+more forlorn than my present situation; so my poor mind vibrated between
+dangers,--the danger of remaining where I was,--the danger that I should
+escape only from the frying-pan into the fire. At last, as I _felt_ the
+frying-pan, and only _feared_ the fire, I concluded to try.
+
+Crawling as noiselessly as possible from my resting-place, I stole
+softly out, and made for the river. Alack! in calculating the chances, I
+had not once thought of four-footed enemies, and they were upon me
+before I was halfway to the shore,--a half-dozen dogs, barking loud
+enough to wake the whole encampment. I retreated incontinently to the
+lodge, and succeeded in getting quietly into my quarters again, not
+without some inward spasms. It was all for the best, no doubt, but it
+was not, just then, easy to think so, or _possible_ to _feel_ so; and,
+therefore, after a little time, I once more emerged from the lodge, and
+stole towards the river by a different track, hoping to elude those
+infernal dogs; but they, or some others, were on the alert, and came
+pell-mell upon my rear, barking more uproariously than before. I cursed
+the dogs, their masters, and my own folly, and gave up the attempt.
+
+The ferrying recommenced the next morning; and before night the whole
+tribe were safely landed, with their effects, on the west side of the
+river, and their wigwams were all pitched. We were short of provisions;
+but this was a common case, and I was accustomed to it. I got an
+occasional morsel of grease, sufficient to keep starvation at bay; but
+illness, with bad and insufficient food, had greatly emaciated me, till
+I was a spectacle but few degrees above the living skeleton. But hope
+was still in the ascendant, and I had no idea of lying down to die till
+I was quite sure my time had come. We continued our wanderings the next
+day in a westerly direction, slaying every living creature that came
+within reach, from a skunk to a guanaco. This was a great
+disappointment, as I hoped we should go down the river, the direction in
+which they said "Holland" lay, and the only direction in which we were
+likely to strike a white settlement, if any existed on the Atlantic
+coast. But my remonstrances on this head were vain; they would go where
+they pleased, and I must go with them. Time dragged heavily; hours
+seemed days, and days weeks. But impatience is no virtue, and submission
+was imperative.
+
+The country hereabout was more broken and mountainous than any we had
+before traversed, with a more abundant growth of bushes, and some clumps
+of stunted trees here and there. As we proceeded, keeping still to the
+north-west, game was more plenty. We came to two ponds, or small lakes,
+one of not more than four acres in extent, the other considerably
+larger; the latter was shallow, at least near the shore, as some
+ostriches pursued by the Indians ran into it, and their pursuers waded
+after, and succeeded in capturing them.
+
+At one time I observed a large scar in the calf of the chief's leg; the
+mark of a wound that must have been inflicted a long time before, as it
+was completely healed. Its depression was so great as to indicate a very
+severe cut, unless the old fellow had grown uncommonly fat since he
+received it. On inquiring the cause of it, he said it was from a wound
+inflicted by the Alanagros, a tribe inhabiting a country to the
+northward. The name he gave them signifies the blacks; and, from the
+manner in which he spoke of them, I inferred they were in some respects
+superior to the Patagonians. He said they were armed with cutlasses, and
+very long knives,--had tobacco, and plenty of horses; and I conjectured
+that they might have been a party of Spanish Americans, or one of the
+mixed races of Spanish origin. The fight, he said, arose on occasion of
+his tribe being on a horse-stealing expedition; they encamped a short
+distance off, and at night he made a descent on the Alanagros, killed
+some of them, and plundered their camp, carrying off many of their
+horses. The plundered tribe rallied, hotly pursued them, and recaptured
+a part of the booty; in the struggle wounding him with a cutlass, and,
+as I judged by appearances, cutting to the bone. He told the story with
+great spirit, slashing right and left, and grunting with extraordinary
+emphasis, as if to give an impression that good hard blows were given
+and taken: but I afterwards learned that it was a cowardly running
+fight, in which more sweat than blood was spilled.
+
+Nothing of importance occurred at our encampment near the lakes,
+except--what was a very noteworthy fact with me--such an abundance of
+ostrich that I was surfeited with the delicious fare, and was compelled
+by the chief to take a horse-rein emetic,--a more precise description of
+which the reader will have no difficulty in excusing. Had I not so
+completely disavowed the medical character, the chief might probably
+have allowed me to feel my own pulse,--if I could find it,--and to
+prescribe for myself; but the renunciation of professional honors
+brought me under the sanitary, as well as the political, jurisdiction of
+Parosilver.
+
+Our line of march was now in a northerly direction, soon deflecting to
+the eastward,--a movement that revived my sinking hopes. There seemed to
+be some prospect of striking the Atlantic coast, and coming within reach
+of civilized men. On our way we observed the tracks of some animals
+different from any I had met with. The chief said it was the _limerer_,
+with which lucid definition I was fain to be content; and, as no
+specimens were visible, the inquisitive naturalist must trust to his
+imagination for the rest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia.
+
+
+My hopes were soon cast down, by a decided movement to the westward.
+Every step, I was convinced, lengthened the distance between me and the
+spot where my most earnest wishes centred; for, though I knew not of any
+settlements in this barren region, yet it was pretty certain that if
+there was one it must be sought in the line of the Santa Cruz. Of our
+latitude and longitude I could form no decisive judgment; but by the aid
+of the sun, of which occasional glimpses were caught, it was easy to
+take note of our direction, and I never retired to rest without taking
+landmarks, and satisfying myself as nearly as possible as to our
+whereabouts. At night there was a renewal of the discussions which had
+once so nearly turned my brain, and now at times came near verifying the
+plea which then saved me from destruction; but I was enabled to keep my
+feelings in more equal check. Disappointed and care-worn, I spent the
+night in commending myself to the mercy and good providence of God,
+praying that he would soften the heart of the savage and open a way of
+deliverance.
+
+Among other matters that excited my curiosity, I was anxious to know
+whether the Indians were expert swimmers. The only occasion on which I
+had seen them attempt it was at the time of the accident in crossing the
+river. Then two of them swam across, while the others floated on their
+horses' backs, clinging to the mane. In answer to some questions dropped
+on the subject, the chief assured me that they were all expert swimmers,
+and could stretch off a long distance without resting, as they would
+show me, but that the coldness of the season made the experiment too
+unpleasant. Others of the tribe told the same story. The question was
+interesting, for obvious reasons. I had thought a time might come when
+it would be a very practical one.
+
+Some new specimens of birds made their appearance from time to time. One
+was a large black bird, resembling the turkey-buzzard, and subsisting on
+carrion. Another resembled the snow-birds of the north. I had also seen,
+near the sea-shore and by the lakes, several species of water-fowl,--one
+not unlike the wild goose, but the chief said they were not good for
+food.
+
+Our course, the next day, was northward, and the day following turned
+once more decidedly towards the east, whereat my hopes, varying with the
+compass, began to revive, though their buoyancy was tempered by
+experience of the uncertainty of Indian movements. Observing a spot
+covered with small trees, over which a great number of carrion birds
+hovered, we approached and found the carcass of a poor old guanaco,
+which had most likely paid the debt of nature without compulsion, and
+was stripped of its flesh by the birds. The chief broke some of the
+bones and eagerly sucked the marrow, and then picked up the remainder to
+add to the domestic stock of grease.
+
+At the close of the next day we brought up at a ravine, and found our
+camp by following it a short distance to a low flat. Proceeding to the
+eastward all the next day, we ascended a high eminence, from which the
+chief pointed in a south-westerly direction, and said that "Holland" lay
+_there_. I strained my eyes in the quarter indicated, without, however,
+making any discoveries, and with a strong disposition to think the Old
+Boy was hoaxing me. At dark we defiled down a steep declivity, and
+pitched our tents on the border of an extensive marsh covered with ice.
+Here I renewed my arguments for speeding our way to the promised land,
+dilating on the qualities of the promised rum in a style that would have
+astonished the advocates of the Maine liquor law, and impaired the
+confidence of those who had reasonably regarded me as a strict
+temperance man. Indeed, the antics and grimace with which I enforced the
+description, and illustrated the jovial effects of the creature,--the
+boasts of how I would teach them, by its aid, to throw the lasso, and
+perform most astonishing feats of horse-stealing and riding,--might have
+induced a suspicion that I knew more of it than mere observation or
+fancy could teach. But, however it may affect my reader, it produced
+unmistakable contentment and satisfaction to my Patagonian auditors; and
+that was what I aimed at. They looked and listened with watering mouths
+and hoarse laughter, giving token that the balmy description was
+appreciated to a most desirable degree. So evident was the impression
+that I spent the next day running about and giving line upon line to
+the most influential of the tribe, and succeeded, as I thought, in
+awakening a degree of enthusiasm to move towards the place where all
+these good things were to be got. In confirmation of this, I had the
+satisfaction of being called at night to attend a solemn council.
+
+It was a peaceful gathering,--they left their weapons behind,--but it
+contemplated only a sort of preliminary inquiry; the Patagonians know
+how to make their forms of procedure as tedious as any of our courts of
+law, summary as are many of their dealings. They examined and
+cross-examined very strictly, sifting my story with a severity which
+showed that they were in earnest, and at the same time a little
+suspicious. It was necessary to be on my guard at all points; and if
+they had been more docile learners of arithmetic, and able to stick on
+questions of number and quantity, it might have been a harder matter to
+satisfy them. But, on the whole, the old story was stuck to with a
+degree of consistency that produced the desired effect. Their confidence
+was perceptibly raised, and, after a good deal of talk, the council
+adjourned, every one more than ever disposed to visit "Holland."
+
+While at this encampment, I observed on the ground about a dozen large
+oyster-shells, that appeared to have been recently opened. These were
+the first and only shells of the kind I saw in the country. I inquired
+if they were plenty in that vicinity. They said they were not; none of
+the tribe seemed to know where they came from, or anything about them.
+The chief said that he and his people did not relish oysters, but other
+Indians ate them. He did not like fish of any kind; no fish had grease
+enough for them; none of _his_ Indians ate fish. This, and some similar
+incidents and conversations, convinced me that there were other Indian
+tribes in the vicinity. On one occasion I had noticed some places where
+a tribe, probably as numerous as our own, had encamped. Their fires
+appeared to have been very recently extinguished. Our tribe appeared to
+be considerably disturbed at these discoveries, and I judged that they
+were the traces of some enemies. It is certain that my captors had seen
+some desperate fights, of which they bore the marks on their persons.
+One of them had a deep scar on his breast, which he said was the mark of
+an arrow-shot received from the _"Yamaschoner"_ Indians, a tribe that
+use the bow and arrow. His description suggested the probability that
+these were the Terra-del-Fuego Indians; but, on mentioning the
+conjecture at a later period to a person I met at the Chilian penal
+settlement, he informed me that those islanders invariably shoot
+_poisoned_ arrows, which would not leave the victim much leisure to
+describe their effect. The scar in question was a deep one, in the
+region of the heart; and while I was examining it, the chief remarked
+that the arrow passed through his body and came out at his back. On
+examination, a distinct scar was visible on his back, so far
+corresponding in form and direction with the one in front, that it
+seemed likely to have been made by the same weapon. But how the arrow
+could have transfixed him through the chest, without wounding the vital
+organs, was not easily to be conjectured. The only explanation I could
+conceive of was, that the fellow's heart was so much harder than any
+material used for arrowheads, that the missile, instead of penetrating
+that important organ, had glanced aside and passed without mortal hurt.
+Enough had been developed to assure me that the tribe generally had
+hearts of no ordinary toughness, capable of serving them for all
+practical purposes wherein impenetrable stuff was in request; but the
+tale of this miraculous escape gave a new impression of obduracy, and
+entitled the hero to bear the palm among his fellows. I pretended to
+pity him for his former sufferings, and went so far as to volunteer--in
+case I should ever be permitted to enter the enemy's territory--to make
+mince-meat of some of them, and so to avenge his cruel injuries. This
+spontaneous sympathy and forwardness to take up his quarrel was
+exceedingly gratifying to the sufferer and to the chief, and drew from
+them a more particular narrative of the combat.
+
+They were out on a horse-stealing expedition,--the usual occasion, it
+seems, of Patagonian fights,--and made a swoop upon the camp of another
+tribe. The objects of this felonious invasion asserted title to the
+horses in their possession by certain tangible arguments, and induced a
+mortal combat. And now Old Boy waxed eloquent, and especially displayed
+that prime ingredient, "action." His broad-sword exercise was really
+animated, and taught us "how fields were won,"--or would have done so,
+but that, while his right hand was slashing the air with his good steel,
+his left _would_ hold the bridle-rein, and his heels involuntarily drive
+the spur;--in short, though it was a part on which he did not linger in
+the narration any more than in the act, there was some tall running on
+the occasion. So artlessly was the tale told, that while the hero was
+cutting and thrusting and grunting, to make due impression of the
+desperate bravery displayed in the encounter, his subordinate action
+clearly depicted a running and retreating fight, and convinced me that
+they got a sound drubbing for their pains. He said he killed one Indian,
+with an air that would have done justice to the slaying of a regiment.
+Shocking to relate, there were found persons who slanderously reported
+to me that Old Boy's legs had the unhappy propensity of Pat
+O'Flaherty's, whose heart was as brave as any man's, but his cowardly
+legs ran away with his body; and they scrupled not to affirm that in
+this same hard-fought battle he crawled into the bushes, and there
+secreted himself till the cessation of hostilities enabled him to rejoin
+his tribe.
+
+The reader has doubtless noticed that "the tribe" has been all along
+anonymous. The explanation comes rather late, but, in point of fact, I
+never could learn that they had any distinctive name; they never used
+any. Indeed proper names were very seldom heard. Even in conversation
+concerning each other, they managed to avoid "naming names" as strictly
+as so many honorable senators, though for no reason that I could
+discover. By signs and gestures, and other hints, they indicated the
+personal subject of remark, and seemed to suffer no inconvenience from
+what would be felt among us as a serious want.
+
+While out hunting one day with the chief, we ascended a slight eminence,
+commanding a view of an extensive plain. The chief suddenly stopped his
+horse, and looked steadily forward. I bent my eyes in the same
+direction, and saw two or three mounted Indians moving towards a common
+point. There was nothing unusual to be seen, but Old Boy seemed to
+discover something. I inquired what it was. He answered by pointing;
+and, on a second view, I observed a horse loose, which I took to be that
+of some Indian temporarily dismounted. But the chief said they were
+about to catch a wild horse, and forthwith dashed off at a furious rate,
+bidding me follow. We were rapidly nearing the spot, when the two in
+advance of us put their horses at top speed towards the lone horse that
+was standing beside a clump of bushes. It suddenly ran before its
+pursuers, followed by two colts from the thicket. The colts appeared to
+be one or two years old, and were doubtless following their dam. One
+Indian singled out the mare, and another the larger colt. The little one
+did not lag behind. The chief and myself followed at a pace which would
+have made a single misstep fatal to our necks; but fortunately our
+horses proved sure-footed. On we dashed, helter-skelter, in a direction
+to head off the pursuers, and to place ourselves nearest to the
+affrighted animals. The mare yet holds the lead, and fairly tears up the
+soil with her flashing hoofs. An Indian, in close pursuit, presently
+swings his lariat about his head; but she makes a curve in her course,
+and springs beyond the reach of his aim. Her pursuer once more gains on
+her; again the lariat swings through the air,--he lets go,--the noose
+catches her neck,--the hunter's horse turns suddenly off, and the rope,
+securely attached to the saddle, brings the poor captive headlong to the
+ground. The trained horse keeps a strain on the noose sufficient to
+prevent her from rising, while the hunter dismounts and secures his
+prize. The colts shared the same fate, and, with the mother, were
+subdued and made useful to the tribe.
+
+The scenes and reminiscences I have described did not prevent the matter
+of most absorbing interest to myself--the projected visit to
+"Holland"--from engaging due attention. The chief came home from the
+council full of it. He was in royal good humor, and talked about it half
+the night; but several objections arose, which it was necessary for me
+to dispose of. These were met, apparently to his full satisfaction. One
+of the most serious was the fear that the white men would revenge upon
+him the murder of Captain Eaton. I assured him that so long as I was
+with him he had nothing to fear on that score; the people were all mine,
+and would do, or refrain from doing, whatever I should bid them. They
+would not dare to lift their hands against him contrary to my orders, or
+refuse to deliver what articles I chose to demand. Nothing, I found,
+would do, but the assertion of absolute supremacy over all white men
+whatever, the world around; less than this would not secure the
+confidence of these savages, and I regulated my speech by the
+necessities of the case. The chief inquired, half a dozen times over,
+what I would say to the white men, and I as often rehearsed an address
+for the occasion. At last his curiosity seemed abated, and we fell
+asleep.
+
+Early the next morning we were up and stirring, and the chief having
+adjusted his toilet with care, a slight breakfast was made ready. This
+over, his highness stood forth, and from the door of his lodge made an
+official address to the tribe, wherein he set out the advantages of a
+visit to "Holland," and suggested the most expedient style of making it.
+He advised that a few only of the tribe should be deputed, with himself,
+to accompany me, and receive the stores of rum, tobacco, bread, rice,
+tea, butter, beads, brass, copper, and so forth, that were to be
+forthcoming, as the expression of my gratitude for the distinguished
+consideration with which they had treated me. Though royal speeches
+seldom excite any jealousy of plagiarism, and it may seem a little
+captious on my part to make such a charge, it is due to "the truth of
+history" to declare, that herein the great Parosilver did but repeat a
+suggestion which he did me the honor to receive with favor over-night.
+It was not deemed essential to the case to inform his highness of _all_
+the reasons that led me to wish for as small an escort as the nature of
+the business would admit. On the contrary, acting upon the profound
+maxim, that one _sufficient_ reason is as good as a dozen, and better
+than that number of questionable ones, I merely advised, that, after the
+experience which Captain Eaton and others had had of Patagonian prowess,
+the sight of too many of his giants would frighten away the whites, and
+prevent all beneficial communication with them; while the presence of a
+small deputation would be a pledge of their pacific inclinations. The
+speech from the throne proved less _moving_ than most of the chief's
+effusions: his lieges listened with great interest, and an earnest
+debate sprung up, at the conclusion of which it was decided that the
+chief, with four other Indians and their squaws, should be my
+body-guard, the rest of the tribe to follow after. Another old woman
+begged to go with us, which was agreed to. The horse I had been in the
+habit of riding was lame, and unfit for service; another was procured
+for me.
+
+Our simple preparations for departure were soon made, and as we were
+about to start they all began bringing their dirty children to me, and
+requesting that I would bring brass and beads for them all; which was
+gravely promised, much to their satisfaction. There remained the last
+act in the comedy for which I had been long rehearsing,--if, indeed, it
+did not turn out a tragedy. The idea had early occurred to me, that if I
+had some object to which I appeared very much attached, it might prove
+to be for my advantage; the Indians might hold it, in my absence at any
+time, as a sort of surety for my return. A belle from among the beauties
+of the tribe would be effectual to that end; but, if no sentiments of
+virtue had restrained me from this expedient, the filth and
+unsightliness of them all were enough to insure continence. I chose,
+therefore, a little white dog for a pet,--a dirty, thievish little
+rascal;--but I fondled him in the style proper to a violent attachment.
+It is true that when I saw him licking the meat designed for our repast
+it was not easy to refrain from kicking his worthless brains out; but
+this was a trifle to other things I had to endure, and I made myself
+apparently so fond of him that the reality of the case was never
+suspected. Now and then I indemnified myself by giving him, when
+unobserved, a smart rapping for his misdeeds, though such chastisement
+made but a slight impression on the object of it. As we were about
+setting out, I was asked if I intended to take my dog. No, I told them,
+he would be better off there, and when I returned he should have some
+bread and other dainties to eat. The ruse more than answered its
+expected end, in lulling all suspicion of my sincerity.
+
+At last we were under way. The grand crisis to which all my diplomacy
+and the utmost license of fiction had tended was near at hand. A strong
+hope of deliverance braced my spirits, shaded, it is true, by a natural
+apprehension of possible failure, and of the consequences that might
+follow. With no great elation of spirits, but with a stern, severe
+tension of all my mental energies, and a concentration of them into one
+focus of resolve, I waved a farewell, which I hoped might be
+everlasting, to the accursed gang of robbers who had tormented me so
+many tedious weeks. "Good-by to Patagonia!" I mentally ejaculated, and
+struck off with my escort; but had not gone more than an eighth of a
+mile, when the party wheeled about and ordered me to follow them back to
+the camp! I remonstrated, but it was of no use, and with a heavy heart I
+found myself once more in my dirty corner of a wigwam. The horses were
+turned adrift without a word of explanation, and the Indians sat down to
+a game of cards, with as much indifference to everything else as if the
+events of the past forty-eight hours had been a feverish dream. What
+could be the meaning of it? I questioned the chief. He merely replied
+that he would go by and by,--by and by; which, being interpreted,
+probably meant when he pleased, and that convenient season might never
+arrive! After I had teased him for a long time he took me to the door of
+the lodge, and, pointing to the river, said it was "no good then;" it
+would be "good" at night. What the state of the river, which was a
+shallow stream, a branch of the Santa Cruz, had to do with the matter, I
+could not divine, and was half inclined to vote myself fairly outwitted
+by the Old Boy.
+
+The day, a long one, at last wore off, and at night we once more set
+off. We crossed the frozen marsh, and forded the river, and, after going
+about two miles, stopped for repose. We took no camp equipage, and had
+to shelter ourselves for the night under the lee of a clump of bushes.
+We thrust our feet into the thicket, while our heads lodged out of
+doors. In this interesting attitude I was made to repeat my wearisome
+detail of promises, and to rehearse once more my contemplated speech to
+the white men; which done, we dropped asleep. Waking early the next
+morning, I found my head and shoulders covered with a fleecy mantle of
+snow. Would the fortune of my expedition fall as lightly on me? I shook
+it off, turned up my coat-collar, pulled my poor, more than half
+worn-out cap over my ears, and so, partially protected from the storm,
+rolled over, and again sunk into a slumber. The storm ceased at dawn of
+day. I rose and went in search of fuel, while my dark companions still
+slept profoundly. In an hour or two they roused themselves, and kindled
+a fire. Meat, from a store brought along for our provision on the way,
+was cooked, and served for breakfast. The scanty meal being despatched,
+our horses were driven in, lassoed, mounted, and we resumed our journey,
+in a south-easterly direction. At the end of about three miles another
+halt was called, a fire was built to warm by, and the horses were
+watered. The order of arrangements was discussed, and a fresh edition of
+the promises and the speech critically listened to. Changing our course
+a little to the right, we soon struck the Santa Cruz. The Indians
+pointed far down the stream, and said, "There is Holland." I strained my
+eyes in the direction pointed out, and thought I could discern an island
+with several small huts upon it. A mile or two further on the north bank
+brought us to the mouth of the river, in prospect of the Atlantic. The
+island was directly opposite the mouth, and the lower part only appeared
+to be inhabited. We halted. The Indians pointed towards it, exclaiming,
+"Esta Holland sarvey! muchas casas, mucho mucho hombres, tene mucho
+aquadiente, mucho travac, yeruen, arenar, arose!"--This is Holland, and
+has plenty of houses, and abundance of men,--plenty of rum, tobacco,
+bread, tea, flour and rice! I surveyed the spot in silence. This island
+was of considerable extent, lying two-thirds across the wide mouth of
+the river, its surface dotted over with little knolls or hillocks of
+earth. Could it be that these were dwellings inhabited by white men?
+
+Our horses' heads were now turned from the shore, and we rode back about
+an eighth of a mile to a large clump of bushes, unsaddled our beasts,
+and waited some time for the rest of our company, who had fallen in the
+rear. They came at last, our horses were turned adrift, fire was
+lighted, and, as the day was far spent, supper was in order. Then ensued
+a repetition--a final one, I trusted--of the grand present to be levied
+on the Hollanders, and of the speech which was to draw them out. The
+Indians arranged that I was to hoist the English flag,--the colors of
+the unfortunate brig Avon, which they had brought along at my
+request,--and then to walk the shore to attract the attention of the
+islanders. On the approach of a boat, I was to be kept back from the
+beach, to prevent escape; for I found that they were not, after all, as
+well assured of my good faith as might have been desirable. They
+thought, moreover, that when the white men saw a prisoner with them,
+they would come ashore to parley, and offer presents to effect his
+release; in that case, there might be a chance, if the negotiation
+proved unsatisfactory, to take bonds of fate in the form of another
+captive or two. So, at least there was ground to suspect,--and some
+cause to fear that the rascals might prove too shrewd for all of us!
+
+After talking till a late hour, the Indians threw themselves upon the
+ground, stuck their feet into the bushes, and were soon fast asleep. I
+consulted the chief as to the propriety of modifying this arrangement,
+by placing our heads, rather than our feet, under cover, since both
+could not be accommodated. He declined any innovations, and told me to
+go to sleep. I stretched myself on the ground, but as to sleep, that was
+out of the question. I lay all night, thinking over all possible
+expedients for escape. We had no materials for a boat or raft of any
+description, and it was impossible to think of any plan that promised
+success; so that, after tossing, in body and mind, through the weary
+hours of night, I could only resolve to wait the course of events, and
+to take advantage of the first opportunity affording a reasonable hope
+of deliverance from this horrid captivity. Snow, sleet and rain, fell
+during the night; and I rose early, thoroughly chilled, every tooth
+chattering. A fire was kindled, and the last morsel of meat that
+remained to us was cooked and eaten. The weather continued squally till
+the middle of the afternoon.
+
+After breakfast the chief went with me to the shore, bearing the flag.
+On the beach I found a strip of thick board, to which I fastened the
+colors, and then planted it in the sand. The bushes around, which have a
+kind of oily leaf and readily ignite, were set on fire. I then walked
+the beach,--but no boat came. When it cleared up sufficiently to see, I
+observed little objects moving about on the island. The day wore away
+with fruitless attempts to attract their attention. With an aching heart
+I returned, at dark, to the camping-ground. On this island my hopes had
+so long centred,--if they were now to be disappointed, how could I
+endure it? The Indians began to talk of rejoining the tribe the
+following day. I opposed the motion with all the dissuasives at command,
+assuring them that, at sight of our flag, the islanders would surely
+come over in a boat, and that, if they would only wait a little, they
+could go over to the island and enjoy themselves to their hearts'
+content; representing the absolute necessity that I should procure the
+rum, &c., we had talked of, and how embarrassing it would be to go back
+to the tribe empty-handed, after all that had been said, to be ridiculed
+and reproached. It would never do. Our conversation was continued till
+quite late, when we ranged ourselves, hungry and weary, for another
+night. For hours I was unable to sleep. The uncertainties of my
+situation oppressed me, and I lay restless, with anxiety inexpressible,
+inconceivable by those whom Providence has preserved from similar
+straits. It was a season of deep, suppressed, silent misery, in which
+the heart found no relief but in mute supplication to Him who was alone
+able to deliver. Towards morning, exhausted with the intensity of
+emotion acting on an enfeebled body, I slept a little, and woke at early
+dawn, to a fresh consciousness of my critical position.
+
+The weather had been fair during the night, but there were now
+indications of another snow-storm. I waited long and impatiently for my
+companions to awake, and at last started off in quest of fuel; on
+returning with which, they bestirred themselves and started a fire,
+which warmed our half-benumbed limbs. There lay the little island,
+beautiful to eyes that longed, like mine, for a habitation of
+sympathizing men, about a mile and a half distant; it almost seemed to
+recede while I gazed, so low had my hopes sunken, under the pressure of
+disappointment and bitter uncertainty. A violent snow-storm soon
+setting in, it was hidden from view; everything seemed to be against me.
+It slackened, and partially cleared up,--then came another gust, filling
+the air, and shutting up the prospect. In this way it continued till
+past noon; at intervals, as the sky lighted up, I took a fire-brand, and
+set fire to the bushes on the beach, and then hoisted the flag again,
+walking wearily to and fro, till the storm ceased, and the sky became
+clear. The chief concealed himself in a clump of bushes, and sat
+watching, with cat-like vigilance, the movements of the islanders. After
+some time, he said a boat was coming; I scarcely durst look in the
+direction indicated, lest I should experience a fresh disappointment;
+but I did look, and saw, to my great joy, a boat launched, with four or
+five men on board, and pushing off the shore. On they came; the chief
+reported his discovery, and the rest of the Indians came to the beach,
+where I was still walking backward and forward. The boat approached, not
+directly off where I was, but an eighth of a mile, perhaps, to the
+windward, and there lay on her oars.
+
+[Illustration: The Escape. Page 160.]
+
+The Indians hereupon ordered me to return to the camping-ground; but,
+without heeding them, I set off at a full run towards the boat. They
+hotly pursued, I occasionally turning and telling them to come on,--I
+only wanted to see the boat. "Stop! Stop!" they bawled. "Now, my legs,"
+said I, "if ever you want to serve me, this is the time." I had one
+advantage over my pursuers; my shoes, though much the worse for wear,
+protected my feet from the sharp stones, which cut theirs at every step;
+but, under all disadvantages, I found they made about equal speed with
+myself. As I gained a point opposite the boat, the Indians slackened
+their speed, and looked uneasily at me; the man in the stern of the
+boat hailed me, inquiring what Indians these were, what number of them,
+and how I came among them. I replied in as few words as possible, and
+told him we wished to cross to the island. He shook his head; they were
+bad fellows, he said; he could not take me with the Indians. They began
+to pull away! I made signs of distress, and waved them to return,
+shouting to them through my hands. The boat was again backed within
+hailing distance. "Will you look out for me, if I come by myself?"
+"Yes!" was the prompt reply. The Indians, all this time, had kept within
+ten or fifteen feet of me, with their hands on their knives, and
+reiterating their commands to come back, at the same time edging towards
+me in a threatening manner. "Yes, yes," I told them, "in a moment," but
+I wanted to look at the boat,--taking care, however, to make good my
+distance from them. At the instant of hearing the welcome assurance that
+I should be cared for, I drew out the watch (which I had brought,
+according to promise, to have a new crystal inserted at Holland), and
+threw it into the bushes; the salt water would spoil it, and, if I
+_should_ be retaken, the spoiling of that would be an aggravation which
+might prove fatal. At the same moment I gave a plunge headlong into the
+river; my clothes and shoes encumbered me, and the surf, agitated by a
+high wind, rolled in heavy seas upon the shore. The boat was forty or
+fifty yards off; and, as the wind did not blow square in shore, drifted,
+so as to increase the original distance, unless counteracted by the
+crew. Whether the boat was backed up towards me, I could not determine;
+my head was a great part of the time under water, my eyes blinded with
+the surf; and most strenuous exertion was necessary to live in such a
+sea. As I approached the boat I could see several guns, pointed,
+apparently, at me. Perhaps we had misunderstood each other,--perhaps
+they viewed me as an enemy! In fact, they were aimed to keep the Indians
+from following me into the water, which they did not attempt. My
+strength was fast failing me; the man at the helm, perceiving it,
+stretched out a rifle at arm's length. The muzzle dropped into the
+water, and arrested my feeble vision. Summoning all my remaining energy,
+I grasped it, and was drawn towards the boat; a sense of relief shot
+through and revived me, but revived, also, such a dread lest the Indians
+should give chase, that I begged them to pull away,--I could hold on.
+The man reached down, and seized me by the collar, and ordered his men
+to ply their oars. They had made but a few strokes, when a simultaneous
+cry broke from their lips, "Pull the dear man in! Pull the dear man in!"
+They let fall their oars, laid hold of me, and, in their effort to drag
+me over the side of their whale-boat, I received some injury; I
+requested that they would let me help myself; and, working my body up
+sufficiently to get one knee over the gunwale, I gave a spring, with
+what strength was left me, and fell into the bottom of the boat. They
+kindly offered to strip me, and put on dry clothes; but I told them, if
+they would only work the boat further from the shore, I would take care
+of myself. They pulled away, while I crawled forward, divested myself of
+my coat, and put on one belonging to one of the crew. Conversation,
+which was attempted, was impossible; it was one of the coldest days of a
+Patagonian winter,--I was chilled through, and could only articulate, "I
+ca-n't ta-lk now; I'll ta-lk by a-nd by." Some liquor, bread and
+tobacco, which had been put on board for my ransom, on supposition that
+this was what the signal meant, was produced for my refreshment. The sea
+was heavy, with a strong head-wind; so that, though the men toiled
+vigorously, our progress was slow. I was soon comfortably warmed by the
+stimulants provided, and offered to lend a hand at the oar; but the
+offer was declined. The shouts and screams of the Indians, which had
+followed me into the water, and rung hideously in my ears while
+struggling for life in the surf, were kept up till distance made them
+inaudible. Whether they found the watch, whose mysterious tick at once
+awed and delighted them, and restored it to its place of state in the
+chief's lodge, or whether it still lies rusting in the sands by the
+sea-shore, is a problem unsolved.
+
+The boat at last grounded on the northern shore of the island; Mr. Hall,
+the gentleman who commanded the party, supported my tottering frame in
+landing; and, as we stepped upon the shore, welcomed me to their island.
+I grasped his hand, and stammered my thanks for this deliverance, and
+lifted a tearful eye to Heaven, in silent gratitude to God. I was then
+pointed to a cabin near by, where a comfortable fire was ready for me.
+"Now," I heard Mr. Hall say, "let us fire a salute of welcome to the
+stranger. Make ready! present! fire!" Off went all their muskets, and a
+very cordial salute it appeared to be. He soon followed me, took me to
+his own dwelling, supplied me with dry clothing, and, above all, warmed
+me in the kindly glow of as generous a heart as ever beat in human
+bosom.
+
+I was captured by the savages on the 1st of May, and landed upon the
+island on the 7th of August.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends.
+
+
+After getting sufficiently thawed out, I gave a synopsis of my
+adventures. The cook presently laid the table, and brought in supper. I
+ate heartily of bread and Irish pork, and drank tea raised in Brazil,
+called _matte_. It may not compare favorably with the produce of China,
+but to me it was a delicious beverage. I had been in captivity
+ninety-seven days, living as the reader has seen. Although I partook
+freely of supper,--too freely for one in my weak condition,--I rose from
+the meal with as keen an appetite as I brought to it. I again expressed
+to Mr. Hall, on learning his name, my gratitude at finding myself,
+through his timely assistance, among friends, though a stranger. He
+cordially sympathized with me, observing that he had been a prisoner
+among the Patagonians for one day only, but had seen enough in that
+short time to be convinced that a life of ninety-seven days with them
+must have been dreadful indeed.
+
+After supper the boat was hauled up on the island. Pipes and tobacco
+were furnished, and I passed in the society of my deliverers one of the
+happiest evenings of my whole life. The change was so great, from the
+miserable and almost hopeless existence I had so long lived, that my joy
+exceeded all bounds. My heart overflowed with gratitude. Words could not
+then, and cannot now, convey any adequate impression of my feelings,--of
+the freedom and joy that animated me, on being snatched from perils,
+privations and enemies, and placed, as in a moment, in security, in
+plenty, and in the society of friends. It seemed like a dream, the
+change was so sudden and so total.
+
+The little house which for the present I called my home, and which, in
+fact, appeared to me at the time the pleasantest dwelling I had ever
+seen, was about twelve by fifteen feet upon the ground, built of boards
+and scantling, and lined with blue Kentucky jean. The fireplace was in
+the middle of one end, and a door opened at the opposite extremity. Two
+large closets were parted off, the one used as a cupboard, and the other
+for stores. Each side was lighted by a window containing four panes of
+seven-by-nine glass. Two comfortable settees, probably saved from some
+wreck, lined the sides of the room, and a good-sized hardwood table
+occupied the centre. It was floored overhead, and a trap-door opened
+into a sleeping apartment, fitted with two little berths,--one for Mr.
+Hall, and the other for Morrison, the Scotchman.
+
+As we have described the interior of our snug little cottage, we will
+bestow a word or two on its exterior and surroundings. Its cracks and
+joints, over the roof and walls, were covered with strips of tarred
+duck, and battened with narrow pieces of thin board. It was situated on
+a little mound of guano, perhaps four feet high, and was banked up to
+the windows with the same material. The height of the walls above the
+embankment was about seven feet, the embankment three feet more. A
+ship's bell was suspended on the north-east corner of the house, to
+notify the workmen of the hours of labor and of their meals. Sea Lion
+Island, as it is called,--the name "Holland" was probably corrupted by
+the Indians, from the word _island_, indistinctly pronounced in their
+hearing,--is about a mile and a quarter long from north to south, with
+an average width of an eighth of a mile, and is covered over its entire
+surface with low evergreen bushes. The settlement was made by an English
+company, for the purpose of collecting guano and preparing it for
+exportation, and was situated on the southern extremity.
+
+Our social evening was prolonged to a late hour, the moments sped by the
+stimulus of novel enjoyment. One of the settees was assigned for my
+couch, bed-clothes were provided, and a bag filled with ships' colors
+and other articles served for a pillow. Before committing ourselves to
+repose, however, we discussed the probability of an invasion from the
+continent, and came to the conclusion that nothing was to be feared in
+that quarter before morning. Old Boy and his party, it was obvious,
+would have to return to the main body of the tribe for reinforcements
+and naval equipage before attempting pursuit, as they had no materials
+for the construction of boats or rafts, even if they would dare to tempt
+salt water in their leathern sacks. We accordingly dismissed the subject
+for the time, and Mr. Hall and the Scotchman, having cared for my
+comfort with anxious kindness, disappeared through the trap-door,
+leaving behind a friendly benediction. The little cottage was warm; my
+couch was the perfection of comfort, in contrast with that which had
+been my lot for ninety-seven wretched nights. Above all, for the first
+time in so many weeks, I could lie down without the fear of treachery
+and violence. I was secure from savages. This indeed was luxury. I slept
+soundly, vying in the profundity of slumber with the immortal seven,
+till late in the morning. Daylight at length had dispossessed the
+darkness of every part of the interior, and I awoke. It was no dream. I
+was indeed free. Rude but unmistakable evidences of civilization
+surrounded me. The adventures of the preceding day flashed vividly on my
+hitherto clouded mind,--the suspense, the struggle, the seasonable
+rescue, the rejoicing welcome, the spontaneous and subduing
+kindnesses,--and a warm gush of tender and grateful emotion from my
+inmost soul thrilled and suffused my whole being. While these emotions
+were subsiding from the fervor of their first impulse, and the mind was
+gliding away into a delicious and confused revery, wherein all manner of
+delight seemed to encircle me as with an atmosphere, in whose genial
+glow all past suffering existed only for the heightening of present
+enjoyment, the trap-door overhead was lifted, and my generous friends
+dropped down with a hearty salutation. I sprang from my couch, as good
+as new, and younger than ever. A cheerful coal-fire was soon burning in
+the grate, the room was swept, breakfast was brought in and despatched,
+the bell rang, and the men issued forth to their daily labors, while I
+went out to explore my new abode.
+
+The island is low and flat, and at high water its surface is only eight
+or ten feet above the water-line; but the tide here rises and falls
+about the same height as at the eastern mouth of the Straits of
+Magellan,--nearly forty-two feet. Within twenty-five feet of our house
+was a small store-house and shed, a hog-sty, and a large stone oven.
+About the same distance further on, was a house for workmen, framed of
+timber, and roofed and laid up at the sides with bushes; and the sides
+were banked and the roof coated with earth, an old sail forming the
+topmost and outermost feature of the edifice,--except that on one
+extremity of the roof a headless barrel communicated with the fireplace,
+and did duty very respectably as chimney and ventilator. There were no
+windows; the men, and whatever portion of light and air sufficed them,
+found ingress and egress through a door in one end. It was most
+evidently made for use, not for show; but appeared to be very
+comfortable, and was neatly fitted up with berths and benches, a table
+and cooking apparatus. Its occupants were eight in number,--three
+Frenchmen, two Spaniards, an Englishman, a Welshman and an Irishman; so
+that, the island having adopted (for a season, at least) a
+representative of the "universal Yankee nation," may be thought to have
+brought together samples from a pretty considerable part of mankind.
+
+Besides these human specimens, the settlement boasted of a dog, two
+mature porkers, and a litter of pigs. Near the house was a large heap of
+guano, prepared and ready for shipping to England and the United States.
+The men were at work hard by digging it up. It lies on the surface of
+the ground to a depth of from one to three feet; is dug up and conveyed
+in barrows to a cleared spot, where it lies in heaps, to be sifted.
+Stones, feathers, sticks, and other foreign substances, are carefully
+removed, the larger lumps are broken up, and the cleared guano is spread
+out in a thin layer; when thoroughly dried, it is covered up with
+planks. The business was carried on by Captain Matthew S. White, an
+Englishman, who had then been absent for several months at Montevideo,
+whither he had gone to procure vessels for conveying the guano already
+prepared, now amounting to some fifteen hundred tons, to market. The
+time he fixed for his return had expired a month before my advent upon
+the island, and Mr. Hall was beginning to feel very anxious for him,
+fearing lest some accident had befallen him, and anxious for himself and
+his company, also, as they had but a few months' provisions; the island
+was rarely visited by vessels, and their only means of reaching any
+port, in case of extremity, were the ship's long-boat, and a whale-boat,
+both too small to undertake so long a voyage with any hope of safety.
+
+The possibility that my late hospitable friends on the main land might
+be led, by their high consideration for me, to visit "Holland" in a
+body, kept us busy, during the day, in making preparations to receive
+them with appropriate honors. Mr. Hall, who was left in charge of the
+settlement during the absence of the proprietor, observed that Captain
+White had often expressed apprehensions that the Indians would come upon
+the island, some time when he was away, and murder all hands. My
+slipping from them in the manner I had was not an event likely to
+dissuade them from the attempt, or weaken their motives for making it.
+There were two swivels in the camp, which we mounted upon wheelbarrows,
+to serve as flying artillery. I ground sharp an old whaling-harpoon,
+and fixed a handle to it; this was slung over my couch; and a large
+sheath-knife, for use in case we got to close quarters, reposed under my
+pillow. The Indians were prowling about the shore, probably expecting to
+see me reäppear among them, laden with the rum and tobacco they came
+after, and which they had earned by boarding and lodging me so long, and
+by the multiplied kindnesses with which they beguiled the months of my
+residence among them. It is likely they think, by this time, that I have
+been gone a long time for it.
+
+Before retiring for the night, we loaded our swivels to the muzzle, and
+fired them, to let our neighbors know that we had the wherewithal to
+give them a warm reception, should they see fit to make us a visit. We
+then reloaded the pieces, each with a dozen or more large bullets,
+placed them ready primed at the door, and covered the primings, to keep
+our powder dry. We had six or eight muskets ready loaded, enough to arm
+the entire garrison, with plenty of ammunition. The dog was tied to the
+doorhandle, to give notice of danger, and the door carefully secured.
+Just as we were about retiring, Bose gave a portentous bow wow! but, on
+going out, and taking a survey of the premises, the alarm proved to be
+false. All was quiet; and, with a momentary doubt of the sagacity and
+discretion of our sentinel, we lay down with a sense of security,--first
+taking the axe into the house, thinking that the cunning rogues might
+try to burn us out, should they find the efforts to dislodge us
+otherwise ineffectual. With this final precaution, our faithful sentinel
+chained to his post, like a Chinese soldier to his gun, we were soon
+sound asleep. The night passed quietly away, without any further alarm
+from our look-out, who was of the English pointer breed,--a sleepy,
+dough-faced fellow, better qualified to show the game than to occupy the
+responsible station to which he was promoted. He was a great coward, but
+that was not altogether against him; for, since the law of
+self-preservation applies to brutes as well as to men, fear would impel
+him to make some kind of demonstration on the approach of foes, if
+fidelity did not; and one kind of demonstration would be as useful to us
+as another, if only audible.
+
+After breakfast I walked forth, and cast an anxious look through the
+glass to the northern shore of the main land, to see if the Indians
+still occupied their position, and whether they were building boats, or
+making any other preparations for invasion. There they were,--the
+patient creatures!--still posted in view of our quarters, the English
+flag flying on the beach. There were several dogs on the shore, and
+among them I recognized my own; I almost fancied I could hear him
+barking. As we brought no dogs with us, I concluded that they had gone
+back to the main body, and got a reinforcement, with materials for
+boat-building, and brought my dog for the especial gratification of his
+affectionate master; and now he was capering about on the shore, as if
+to call me back. Having sufficiently gratified my curiosity in this
+direction, I turned the glass seaward, in hope to view some approaching
+sail but the broad expanse was clear,--no vessel to be seen. On the
+river banks a few stray guanacos were cropping the scanty, rank grass,
+while others, with their young, were lying on the sunny slopes of the
+sand-hills. The quiet of these animals assured me that their inveterate
+enemies, the Indians, were not in the vicinity.
+
+Tired, at length, of this sort of sight-seeing, I returned to the house,
+and, taking our guns, started with Mr. Hall on a stroll up the island,
+hoping to shoot some sea-fowl; but returned at noon, unsuccessful. The
+afternoon was spent in wandering aimlessly over the island, killing
+time. Walking about on the sea-shore, I picked up some clear,
+transparent stones, coated on the outside with a kind of crust; some of
+them are very hard, and, when broken, cut glass like a diamond. I wrote
+my name, and place of residence, on a window of our little cottage, with
+a fragment of one; they are mostly white, some of them of a vermilion,
+and others of a straw color; they are, I suppose, a variety of quartz.
+The shore is, in some places, covered with these pebbles to the depth of
+two or three feet, on an average of the size of a walnut; the hardest
+specimens were not abundant, but I collected about a hundred of them. I
+might have picked up many more, if they had possessed any special value.
+
+A further examination of the opposite shore disclosed Indians still
+prowling about, and I proposed to Mr. Hall to go over, with the men, and
+give them a sound drubbing. Revenge, I know, is said to dwell in little
+minds; if so, my abode in Patagonia must have dwarfed and contracted my
+own intellect for the time being, for I must confess to the
+consciousness of a desire to visit upon them some appropriate return for
+what they had inflicted upon me. Mr. Hall admitted the ill-desert of the
+Indians, and the entire rightfulness of a severe chastisement; but, not
+having the same stimulus to heat his blood that burned within me, he
+viewed the question with a more strict regard to prudence, and was
+altogether disinclined to undertake so hazardous an expedition; he
+dreaded going any nearer to the savages than was necessary. I would,
+myself, rather have been shot than fall into their hands a second time;
+but contended that the approach of the boat would bring them to the
+shore, and enable us to do them a mischief from the boat, without any
+necessity of landing among them. True, the Indians _might_ succeed in
+getting upon the island some night, and effect our destruction; there
+certainly was nothing to prevent it, if they had the least ingenuity,
+and a moderate share of courage; but I knew them to be a gang of arrant
+cowards, and the reader may judge of their inventiveness by the
+preceding narrative. The subject was discussed till late in the evening,
+and the needful preparations and precautions were thoroughly talked
+over. When about to retire for the night, we went out and looked for our
+vigilant sentinel, whose due place, in right of his office, should have
+been at the door. Recreant to his trust, the rascal had deserted, to
+take up his night's lodging with the pigs. He was soon hustled out of
+his nest, and compelled to return to the door, there to be tied, as on
+the preceding night, to the handle. His choice of such mean company
+greatly lowered the animal in my estimation. While fixing him in his
+place, we perceived a light on the north shore; it appeared to be
+carried about from place to place, and was at some distance from the
+Indians' wigwams. This had much the appearance of preparation for a
+nocturnal visit from the rascals,--a symptom of boat-building. From my
+observation of their habits while among them, I was convinced that
+something extraordinary was on foot; they were not much in the habit of
+moving about after dark, with or without lights, and nothing but the
+pressure of an unaccustomed purpose could have made them so enterprising
+now. We uncovered the priming of our swivels, and greased their muzzles,
+to make them speak in a louder tone of warning and defiance to the
+enemy; they were discharged with a loud report, that made the island
+ring, and must have resounded with effect upon the hostile shore. The
+guns were reloaded, primed, and mounted upon their carriages at the
+door. The lights that had drawn forth this sonorous demonstration
+speedily disappeared; the Indians, it was presumed, had taken the hint,
+and abandoned or postponed their undertaking, whatever it might have
+been. I well knew their dread of big guns. When I attempted, at first,
+to persuade them to go with me to Port Famine, the chief reason
+assigned, besides the superior advantages of "Holland," was, that there
+were big guns there, which were "no good for Indians." A council of war
+came to the conclusion that there was nothing to be feared from them
+that night, and we thereupon retired.
+
+If our careful preparations seem to belie my expressed belief of their
+cowardice, it should be remembered that they had once fleshed their
+swords, if not their teeth, in the bodies of some white men, and had
+held, for a brief period, islanders in their custody; they were
+numerous, and might so far confide in their numbers and strength as to
+dare the attempt to wreak their disappointments fully upon our heads.
+Our caution was reasonable, and, at the time, was not excessive in
+degree. In the morning we made a careful survey of the premises,
+exploring all the sheds, and every other place where an enemy could have
+secreted himself, but made no discoveries. We walked over the island,
+and examined the opposite shore; but perceived nothing strange or
+alarming, except that the Indians still remained in their quarters, and
+that their numbers had greatly increased.
+
+The question of crossing over and driving them off was revived after
+breakfast, but, after considerable talk, no definite conclusion was
+reached, and I spent the day wandering over the island, gunning and
+picking up rare stones, occasionally surveying the coast through the
+glass. At night no lights appeared opposite; and having made our usual
+preparations against a nocturnal attack, we decided that if the black
+rascals did not speedily pick up their traps, and make themselves
+"scarce," we would go over and hurry their movements. Mr. Hall found his
+loyalty stirring within him, in aid of revenge. He said it was too much
+to see that blood-stained British flag flying among such a miserable set
+of creatures, bringing freshly before his mind the forms of his
+slaughtered countrymen. This sentiment I was prompt to encore, and to
+enforce the propriety of an invasion to wrest the trophy from their
+hands. This was determined upon for the next day, unless they should
+sooner relieve us of their presence.
+
+The day dawned with a cloudy sky and a thick atmosphere, which made it
+impossible to see distinctly for any distance. Towards noon it cleared
+up, and we discovered that our troublesome neighbors were still there.
+We thereupon set about the necessary preparations for a movement,
+immediately after dinner. Arms and equipments were appointed, knives
+sharpened, guns put in order and stacked against the house;--the bell
+rang for dinner, and we ate with appetites sharpened by excitement. But,
+on going out, and taking a final look through the glass before
+embarking, we observed the Indians catching their horses. They speedily
+mounted their beasts, and rode off. Our anticipated valor was soon
+cooled. They had slipped away without giving us a chance to do anything
+for revenge, for justice, or for the honor of the captive flag. On the
+whole, we were not sorry to abandon the expedition, though it seemed to
+me that our chances of security were not much improved by their
+departure. They would be very likely to lurk in the vicinity, and to
+return with full preparations for crossing and landing upon the island.
+Perhaps their movement was only a ruse to put us off our guard. Such
+thoughts crowded my mind; but there was no use in borrowing trouble, and
+I dismissed them.
+
+The men returned to their work, and I set myself to devise some
+employment. I had become tired of idleness, and offered to assist in the
+preparation of guano; but Mr. Hall interposed a decided veto. He wished
+me, he said, to make myself entirely contented, and as comfortable as
+possible. But the sort of life I was leading was very decidedly
+uncomfortable; and I entreated so earnestly to be allowed to make myself
+useful in some way, that he set me to make a row-lock for a boat, or a
+few thole-pins, or some other trivial things, that served to occupy
+attention and divert the mind. Then our cottage wanted a new floor, and
+some alterations were found necessary about the premises. When
+everything was done, and no more was suggested, I was desired to go a
+gunning, to vary the supplies for the table, or to take a basket and
+pick the tops of the bushes for pickling. The bushes, which are
+evergreen, have on their tops little clusters not unlike barberries,
+that make a very fine pickle. Several jars were filled, and furnished an
+excellent condiment for our suppers.
+
+Time passed on, and the non-arrival of Captain White made it drag
+slowly. I had thought to take passage in one of the guano vessels to Rio
+Janeiro, or some other South American port, from which it might be easy
+to obtain a passage for California. In default of other occupation, the
+large lighter, which lay up the creek, two-thirds the length of the
+island, was brought down opposite the house for repair, to be in
+readiness to load the ships when they should arrive. Their delay
+threatened us with famine, moreover, and it was beginning to be felt as
+a very serious matter. To add to our troubles, the scurvy broke out
+among the men, in consequence of living on salt provisions, without
+vegetables. They had been recommended, as a preventive, to make and eat
+freely of the pickle just described; but, either from want of faith in
+the virtue of the prescription, or because it was too much trouble, they
+had neglected to do so, and now found themselves in a poor plight.
+
+About the same time, as troubles
+
+          "come not single spies,
+    But in battalions,"
+
+Mr. Hall was informed by the Welshman, who appeared very friendly, that
+Morrison, the Scotchman, was trying to prejudice the Frenchmen and
+Spaniards against him, and inciting the men to mutiny. The man had lived
+in the house and been treated like a gentleman, and this was all the
+return he made for the preference shown him. Sawney's goods and
+chattels were forthwith thrown out of doors, and he was ordered to take
+his bed and board with the men. He took this descent in the world very
+much to heart, and when I talked with him on the impropriety of his
+conduct, appeared quite penitent. I strongly advised Mr. Hall to take
+him back into the house; for, though he had proved treacherous, it was
+better, after all, to have him under our immediate watch than with the
+men, as he might, in a short time, infect the whole company. After much
+coaxing, consent was given to his return, and he replaced his things in
+the house with much apparent gratitude. He was told that he must show
+himself an honest man, and labor to undo the mischief he had done, if he
+had any care of his personal safety; for should any trouble break out,
+and the sacrifice of life become necessary, his would be the first. He
+faithfully promised, and, I doubt not, exerted himself to allay
+discontents and prevent any outbreak. With the Spaniards he was
+successful; but the Frenchmen were more turbulent, and determined on a
+rupture. They complained that their allowance of food was insufficient,
+and threatened to break into the store-house and help themselves. Mr.
+Hall had served out their daily rations of meat, bread and flour, by
+weight, according to the directions of Captain White. The quantity I
+have forgotten, but remember Mr. Hall saying that it was the same as is
+allowed per man in the British navy. When the bell rang for work the
+next morning, the Welshman and Irishman alone went. The Spaniards said
+that they had the scurvy so badly they were unable to work; the
+Frenchmen marched up to the house, and peremptorily demanded more flour.
+Mr. Hall met them at the door; and, in reply, told them that they had
+the same food, in quality and quantity, with all the others, himself
+included, and that the allowance for the house proved to be more than we
+needed. None of the other men complained, and their complaints could not
+be listened to by him. They had all that Captain White allowed, and, if
+they were not satisfied, they could appeal to him when he returned,
+which would undoubtedly be very soon. Meanwhile he advised them "to be
+quiet, and do their own business." They left in a very wrathful mood,
+not to their work, but to their quarters, and to idle away the rest of
+the day in sauntering up and down the island. They went on in this way
+for nearly a week, and at last consented to return to duty, under a
+promise that nothing should be deducted from their wages, which was
+given as a matter of prudence. It was not thought safe, in present
+circumstances, to strain authority over them. Nothing occurred to give
+serious uneasiness, though the men were so touchy and quarrelsome as to
+raise a slight tempest, now and then. On one occasion, Mr. Hall had been
+with three men up the creek, seven or eight miles, after fresh water,
+which could only be obtained at that distance and boated down to the
+settlement. While we were unlading the boat, a row was kicked up between
+one of the Frenchmen and the Welshman. Taffy, who was a thorough seaman,
+when adjusting the ropes to the casks, was assailed by one of the
+Frenchmen with some derogatory remark touching his seamanship, prompted
+by his mode of "putting on the parbuckle." The critic attempted to take
+the rope into his own hands, by way of enforcing and exemplifying his
+view of the process; and the two were on the point of settling the
+question in a summary fashion, in a spirit which it required some effort
+to quell.
+
+The Indians still hovered in the vicinity of the further shore, as the
+smoke of their fires plainly indicated, and we were obliged to keep up
+our preparations for defence. There was nothing to prevent them from
+paying us a visit but their cowardice; and knowing their revengeful
+tempers, and the tenacity of their purposes,--the long-lived malice with
+which they were capable of pursuing any evil designs,--it seemed not
+unlikely that, smarting under the disappointment I had caused them,
+their resentment would prove strong enough to overcome their timidity.
+In this connection I had an unpleasant thought, now and then, of a hint
+given them while we were on our way to "Holland." When about a mile
+distant from the shore, I picked up a bit of plank, and somewhat rashly,
+in the impetuosity of desire to contrive ways and means to get to the
+island, in case the islanders could not be attracted towards us, told
+the Indians that, if we could find two or three more of the same sort, I
+could bind them together and make a raft, on which I might be paddled
+over to "Holland." I informed them, moreover, what was the most
+favorable time for crossing; namely, at the last of the tide, as the
+distance to be passed would be less, and there would be no difficulty in
+effecting a landing on the island. No additional materials presented
+themselves, and the scheme was given up; happily there was no need of
+it. But, less happily, it now occurred to me that what I then spoke in
+my own behoof might be turned by the Indians to theirs, to our no small
+danger, in case a more earnest and vigorous search should disclose,
+along-shore, more abundant materials for extemporizing transport craft.
+
+Some of the men became so sorely afflicted with the scurvy that we
+decided to land on the south shore and chase some of the guanaco for
+fresh provision. Two of the Frenchmen accompanied us. Just as we were
+getting off, their countryman who was left behind came running to us,
+with angry jabber and gesture, vociferating that one of them had his
+gun. He seized it and was taking it out of the boat, when the party
+dispossessed of it disputed his progress, and a regular French fight of
+kicking and fisticuffs ensued, which we had difficulty in subduing. At
+last we got off, but discovered only a lone guanaco in a hollow between
+the hills. We posted ourselves to surround him for a shot. When he came
+out I had a fine chance at him as he crossed the top of the hill, and
+made quite sure of him. Unluckily, the flint-lock missed fire, and,
+before it was possible to burn any powder, our expected prey escaped. We
+cruised about for several miles, and returned home tired and empty.
+
+The men continued their work, as usual, the next day; but a storm was
+brewing. On the following morning the Frenchmen marched up to the house,
+and demanded their wages. They were told by Mr. Hall that he had none of
+the proprietor's money, nor any authority to settle with them. Then they
+would work no longer. Very well, they were told, they might let work
+alone, but their wages and rations could not be meddled with on demand.
+So they indulged in another season of idleness and mischief. Their first
+revenge was taken on old "John," the horse. On the second day of their
+mutiny the poor animal was seen to halt; a hamstring was cut. He was
+very fat, and was probably marked by them for food, in default of fresh
+provision. At all events, Mr. Hall ordered him, as he was useless, to
+be so dealt with. The men's rations were served out, and the rest was
+laid up in the store-house for future use. "Horse-beef" has a strong and
+singular flavor. I had become accustomed to such diet among the
+Patagonians, though never privileged to partake of so fat a specimen as
+old John.
+
+Not knowing to what height the mutinous spirit of his men might carry
+them, Mr. Hall wrote a brief statement of his affairs, and an account of
+my arrival on the island, and enclosed them, together with what money
+and valuable papers he had, in a tin box, which he buried at night in a
+guano-heap. That would certainly be removed on Capt. White's arrival, or
+by some one else, if he never returned; so that our tale would not be
+lost, even though we should not survive to tell it. The desperate
+character of the men,--all but one or two of whom, as we had reason to
+believe, had left their country for their country's good,--and the
+recklessness of their behavior, made our situation rather ticklish. Our
+fear of the Indians, moreover, was not laid entirely to sleep, though
+all visible tokens of their neighborhood to us had disappeared. By
+passing up and crossing the river, they might approach us from the south
+shore, which was separated from the island by a channel not more than
+half as broad as that on the opposite side. The bank, to be sure, was
+steep and muddy, involving the risk that they would be hopelessly
+bemired in attempting to land; but this was a weak security against
+them, if they were resolute enough to make the effort. Nothing occurred
+for several days to break the monotony of life. No work was done; the
+men received their allowances twice a week, spending their time in
+wandering over the island. The large boat needed repairs, but they
+rendered no aid. We took advantage of high water, rove tackles, and, by
+the help of rollers, drew it up high and dry on the land. When it was
+finished,--through fear that the men might seize it and make off to some
+place northward, thus depriving us of our only means of escape, if our
+provisions should be exhausted before Capt. White's return,--it was
+turned over, and the sails and oars were secured, as far as possible,
+from depredation.
+
+Old John was devoured, to the partial relief of the company; but some
+were still badly affected with scurvy. Yet we were afraid to go any
+distance in search of fresh provisions, on account of the risk of
+finding Indians about. The carcass of a guanaco, just killed by the
+dogs, was picked up in time to afford a sensible alleviation of
+suffering, and to replenish our rapidly wasting stock of provisions.
+Indians without, discontent and mutiny within, and the possibility of
+famine, together, would have made the island anything but a paradise to
+one who had not so lately escaped the purgatorial pains of a Patagonian
+captivity. The first of these disagreeables, however, began to be less
+vividly felt. We got tired of sweeping the horizon with our glass in
+search of the smoke of their camp-fires, or other appearances suggesting
+their vicinity, and gradually relaxed our vigilance. Bose was released
+from his sentry duties, and suffered to exchange such unwilling service
+for the society of his friends the pigs. But we still took the axe into
+the house by night, and kept our guns loaded. The boat had to be
+launched once more, to go up the creek for water. When it was unladed,
+we got the aid of a Spaniard and Frenchman in drawing it on land, to
+prevent the rascals from stealing it, by telling them that it needed
+painting, which was true enough. The seine was next got out, to see if
+some fish could not be had for the improvement of our diet; but we got
+what is vulgarly termed "fisherman's luck," and spread the ineffectual
+net on the gravelly beach to dry. Grown desperate, at last, we decided
+that, Indians or no Indians, we _must_ have fresh provisions, if any
+were to be had, and manned the whale-boat for an expedition to the
+continent. We landed on the south shore, and succeeded in discovering
+and bringing down a solitary guanaco. The game was dressed, and we
+returned to our home in triumph. The two following days were chiefly
+spent in hunting, unsuccessfully.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, having nothing else to pass away the
+hours, I commenced repairing the lighter, but had not been long at work
+before Mr. Hall came down, with a smile. "Look out to sea!" he
+exclaimed; "Captain White is coming." I looked as directed, and saw
+distinctly two sail approaching. A thrill of joy shot through me; I
+thought no more of work that day. An examination through the glass made
+them out to be a ship and a fore-and-aft schooner. Could it be any one
+else than Captain White? The island was not frequented by vessels except
+for guano; but it seemed very strange to see a schooner, as a vessel of
+that rig was not adapted to such a service. Mr. Hall began to think it
+might be some of General Rosas' vessels despatched to drive away people
+engaged in taking guano on the Patagonian coast. It had been reported,
+some time before, that he designed doing so. He heard the rumor a few
+months previous at Montevideo; and also another, that the Chilian
+government claimed the country, and were determined to hold it.
+
+The little schooner led the way, considerably in advance of the ship.
+As the vessels approached nearer, they presented a decidedly Yankee
+look. We watched them with intense interest, as they passed the shoals,
+and came up with a favorable breeze, under a press of sail. Soon they
+entered the river's mouth. On passing the north point the schooner stood
+up, keeping the north shore, and cast anchor. It was evident they were
+not acquainted with the navigation, as there is a large shoal running
+from the upper end of the island nearly to the mouth of the river, and
+they had sailed within it. On discovering the error, she attempted to
+keep off, but, in so doing, struck the lower end of the shoal. Mr. Hall
+manned the boat, and boarded the schooner. She proved to be the
+Washington, tender to the ship Hudson, Captain Clift, of Mystic,
+Connecticut,--a whaling vessel, just from the Falkland Islands. Mr. Hall
+promised to go on board again during the following forenoon, and pilot
+the vessel into the channel.
+
+I went with him for this purpose; and, as it was calm, the anchor was
+hove aweigh, and, with the boat ahead, we towed the schooner across the
+shoal, which at low water is plainly to be seen, but now, at flood tide,
+had plenty of water. After getting into the right position, the anchor
+was dropped, and we spent the day on board very pleasantly. The weather
+held moderate till afternoon. The ship yet lay off the mouth of the
+harbor, and made slow progress upward. The schooner, the day before,
+being so far ahead, had only daylight and wind enough to get in; and the
+ship, finding she would be benighted, as the wind sank with the sun,
+hauled on and off during the night, and then lay with scarcely wind
+enough to fill the sails. A smart breeze, however, sprung up in the
+afternoon, and she came gallantly into port, only repeating the mistake
+made by the schooner between the channels; but got off at night with the
+tide, and, after some delay, anchored securely in sufficient depth of
+water. As she intended making some stay in port, she was subsequently
+taken further up to the proper anchorage, and was moored on the 5th of
+October, having come in on the 4th.
+
+Captain Clift had been informed by the mate, who had been ashore, and by
+Mr. Hall, of my misfortunes and adventures among the Patagonians, and on
+the following day sent a message inviting me on board his vessel. He
+received me very cordially, and insisted that I should make his ship my
+home as long as it should suit my convenience to do so. I accepted his
+kind offer, first going on shore, and communicating it to my liberal
+benefactor, Mr. Hall. He at once assented that it would undoubtedly be
+pleasanter to be with my countrymen. I could not leave him, however,
+without endeavoring to express my earnest gratitude for my rescue from a
+captivity worse almost than death, and for the kindly sympathy and
+generous hospitality that he had exercised for two months. In my
+destitute condition I had nothing but thanks to give, and I fervently
+hoped he might never be in a situation to need the like kindness from
+others; but he was assured, that whenever or however it might be
+possible to show my gratitude in a more substantial manner, it would be
+my happiness to do so. He begged me to give myself no trouble on that
+score, insisted on my retaining the articles of clothing with which he
+had supplied me, hoped I would come often and see him while the vessels
+continued there, and I bade this noble specimen of the true-hearted
+Englishman a tearful good-by.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain.
+
+
+Captain Clift cordially welcomed me to his ship, and immediately
+tendered me whatever I might need for personal comfort. I declined
+availing myself of his generosity, assuring him that I could be
+comfortable with present supplies; but he insisted on replenishing my
+wardrobe, silencing all objections by the remark that I plainly needed
+the articles, and that it was a part of our duty on earth to give to the
+needy. Captain Clift was a Christian in precept and example. He had
+daily prayer on board his ship, and made his religion an inseparable
+part of himself; something more than a profession, that did not expend
+itself in words, but found expression in acts of kindness to all within
+his reach. He had on board a poor sick Irish lad, who was taken into the
+cabin, and nursed with all the care that circumstances admitted. Had
+poor Mike been his own son, he could not have done more for him. Such
+acts, incapable of being traced to any sordid or selfish motive, sprung
+spontaneously from his capacious heart, full to overflowing with the
+milk of human kindness. As the ship had been at the Falkland Islands for
+several months, where they lived exclusively upon fresh meat, it seemed
+impossible that there should be a case of scurvy on board; but the
+captain remarked that the Patagonian coast was the worst he ever visited
+in this respect.
+
+The crew, under direction of the mate, a brother of the captain, were
+busy in landing cattle, swine, empty casks and other articles, to make
+room on board for trying out whales, in case they captured any more, for
+which the schooner was getting ready to cruise up and down the coast.
+The mate went in the tender on her first trip out; but she returned, in
+three or four days, unsuccessful. A second cruise was undertaken, but in
+a week's absence only one whale was discovered, and this they failed to
+secure. A third and still longer trip was equally unsuccessful, and they
+returned not a little discouraged. During this time I had repeatedly
+exchanged visits with Mr. Hall, and felt quite comfortable in my new
+quarters; but suffered the misery of idleness, and of impatience at my
+detention, even among such generous and considerate friends. Partially
+to relieve the tedium of inactivity, in compliance with an urgent
+request for some useful employment, I was allowed to repair the ship's
+spanker. But I determined that, on the next cruise of the tender, I
+would take a berth, in the hope of falling in with some vessel bound
+around Cape Horn, or to Montevideo, Rio Janeiro, Pernambuco, or any
+other port from which it might be possible to secure a passage to
+California,--a land I was resolved at least to see, after having got so
+far on my way, though so inauspiciously.
+
+The vessel was soon ready to sail. The evening before our departure Mr.
+Hall visited me, and also came in the morning, before we were off;--the
+whole-souled fellow! I shall always pray for his happiness. Captain
+Clift added to his other kindnesses by pressing upon me various articles
+of comfort for the voyage, with a nice clothes-bag to contain them all.
+I parted from them, heartily praying a continuance of God's blessing on
+them both; adding, however, that it was very likely they would see me
+turning up among them, like a bad penny, on the return of the schooner.
+In truth, my natural buoyancy had so far died out, that but faint hopes
+of a successful termination of the voyage, begun, so long before, under
+auspices apparently cheering, now encouraged me. We hove up the anchor,
+hoisted sail, and steered out of the harbor and down the coast, running
+off and standing in on the land, in hope to fall in with whales. On the
+fourth day out, we discovered a sail coming down the coast towards us.
+It proved to be an outlandish-looking craft, from her rig appearing to
+be a Portuguese schooner. We sailed towards her with a light breeze,
+lowered our boat, and went alongside the foreigner. She had on board a
+large crew of cut-throat looking fellows, loitering about. We were not
+asked on board, but remained in the boat talking with them through one
+of our men, a Portuguese. They said they were from some place, the name
+of which I have now quite forgotten, up the Straits of Gibraltar, and
+were bound through the Straits of Magellan to California. I suggested to
+Mr. Clift the propriety of getting on board, and going to Port Famine or
+to California. He said I could do as I pleased; but that, for his own
+part, he would feel hardly willing to trust himself among them, in which
+opinion I concurred.
+
+Our Portuguese hand went on board, and talked with the captain of my
+adventures among the Indians, and of the occupation, &c., of our
+schooner. He was directed to inquire for whales, and brought us answer
+that several had been seen along the coast, some distance to the
+northward. While this conversation was going on, a tall, hairy fellow
+came up from the cabin, encased in a dark-colored cloak having a red
+collar, and stripes of the same hue running about the edge; a hood, or
+cap, of divers gaudy colors, lay back on his shoulders, and another,
+gayly and profusely variegated in hue, was perched upon his head.
+Altogether he was a comical-looking piece of human nature. He took a
+look at our vessel through the glass. In answer to an inquiry through
+our interpreter, we learned that they had passed, the day before, an
+American schooner bound that way, which could not be far off. One of the
+sailors passed some liquor to us over the side of the vessel; it was sad
+stuff, and I could only out of compliment go through with the form of
+drinking. While this little courtesy was enacting, our Esau over-head
+was scanning the horizon with his glass, and at length exclaimed that he
+saw the vessel; we turned, and distinctly perceived a sail making
+towards us.
+
+We soon returned to the tender, and stood in for the shore, in order to
+cut off the approaching stranger; anxious to meet her, I went aloft to
+the mast-head, where the view was better, and kept the mate advised of
+her course. When near enough to be watched from the deck, I came down,
+as it was impossible she could escape us. Mr. Clift offered to board
+her, and I accordingly picked up my things, ready for contingencies; the
+breeze was light, and the strange schooner approached slowly. We stood
+in till it was judged we were in her track, and then hove to, with the
+stars and stripes flying at the main gaff, as a signal that we wished to
+speak her. Presently the same beautiful flag was run up her main peak;
+on she came,--our boat was lowered, Mr. Clift jumped in with me, and we
+were rowed alongside, the schooner rounding to, and laying by for us to
+come on board. Captain Clift announced himself to the master of the
+schooner, who came to the side to receive us, and introduced me. He
+courteously invited us on board, jocosely remarking that we had a good
+many captains for one vessel, took us into the cabin, and treated us
+with the greatest civility.
+
+The schooner proved to be the Hopewell, of New Orleans, Captain Morton,
+from Antigua, and bound to San Francisco, through the Straits of
+Magellan. There were two passengers aboard, an American gentleman, and a
+Portuguese, taken aboard at Bahia. At Captain Morton's request, I gave a
+sketch of my expedition and sojourn among the cannibals. "You were bound
+to California when you embarked?" he inquired, when I had concluded; "I
+am bound there, and, if you wish to finish your voyage, you can go with
+me." My mind was relieved; I almost feared to ask a passage, but my wish
+had been anticipated,--my request generously granted before it was
+uttered. I gratefully accepted his offer; remarking that unless my
+vessel had arrived in safety, of which I had no assurance, I should find
+myself as destitute on landing as at that moment; but that he could
+leave me at Port Famine, if I became troublesome. The "John Allyne" I
+supposed to have been lost soon after my capture; I had heard nothing of
+her since. He desired me to give myself no trouble in that matter on
+_his_ account, and exerted himself to entertain us. As we were opposite
+the river Gallegos, and could easily run down to Cape Virgin during the
+night, Captain Morton felt in no hurry; and the whaling schooner was
+very well posted for observation on the coast, so that our men were well
+contented, and we had a very pleasant social interview of two or three
+hours. Finally, after partaking of some refreshments, I bade adieu to my
+excellent friend Mr. Clift, and the two vessels parted, to pursue their
+different courses.
+
+During the night, we worked our way down to the straits. I sat up quite
+late with the captain; and, when at length I retired to my state-room,
+fell soundly asleep. The next morning we were nearly opposite Cape
+Virgin, the north point of the entrance to the straits. We were rather
+wide off the cape; the wind was ahead, and a good strong breeze; we beat
+in at last, and anchored under Point Dungeness. The Portuguese schooner
+was in the offing; she worked up before night, and anchored a little to
+the windward of us. We lay at anchor through the night; the next morning
+we both got under way, with a light breeze, which lasted, however, but a
+little while, when the wind came round ahead. As we were passing Point
+Dungeness,--it was not fairly daylight, and I had not yet risen,--Mr.
+F., one of the passengers, cried out that the shore opposite was lined
+with Indians. I hurried on deck, to get a peep at them; upon looking,
+there appeared a great school of seals on the beach; they seemed to be
+standing up, and walking on their hind feet, so as to have, in the dusk,
+very much the appearance of Indians. With some difficulty we worked up
+to near the point where the John Allyne lay when I made my unlucky visit
+on shore, and came to anchor; so that I was brought back again almost to
+the starting-point of this "eventful history,"--a revolution suggestive
+of many reflections.
+
+The next day there came a heavy gale; the Portuguese schooner had
+anchored on the preceding night, in the bight of Possession Bay, further
+down. We lay heavily pitching at our anchors till afternoon, when
+Captain Morton determined to get his anchors, if possible, and run down
+to where the foreign schooner lay, thinking it might prove a safe
+anchorage. After much trouble in raising the anchors, we ran back,
+keeping the lead going, and running at a furious rate, under bare poles,
+excepting the head of the jib. The whole bay was a sheet of surf and
+foam. I began to think we had not much bettered our condition by
+removing. We anchored abreast of our Portuguese friend, but still
+dragged the anchors. We finally brought up by securing some iron
+castings we had on board to the kedge; the chain-cable was reeved
+through them,--they were let down ten or fifteen feet from the anchor.
+The small kedge thus fixed, with the weight attached to the chain,
+ploughed to the bottom, instead of being lifted out by the strain on the
+cable, thereby performing the service of one many times its weight. Our
+little vessel rode out the gale, which was of short duration; as the sun
+went down the wind subsided. We had hoisted a small sail to the
+main-mast, in shape resembling a leg of mutton, to make the vessel ride
+head to the wind, instead of lying in the trough of the sea. The tide,
+running at the time strongly against the wind, caused us to lie nearly
+broadside to the force of the gale; but this temporary sail, supplying
+the place of after-sail, caused the craft to lie more steadily. Just
+before sunset we got our anchors at the bow, and were under close-reefed
+sail, beating back to the place we left in the forenoon, near the first
+narrows. We arrived there in the evening, and again anchored; the next
+morning, with a light breeze from the eastward, we stood into the
+narrows, in company with the Portuguese schooner. Soon after we had
+passed through the narrows, the wind came ahead; we beat along, and
+anchored under Cape Gregory, a fine anchorage.
+
+Towards evening we discovered something sitting upon a high, abrupt
+sand-cliff, on the bordering shore; we could perceive, by an occasional
+movement, that it was a living creature. The object was of considerable
+interest, and was closely inspected with the glass; at last it was
+pronounced to be an Indian. The shore was closely scanned in all
+directions, to ascertain whether there were more in the vicinity; none
+were in sight, and we concluded to pay the solitary a visit; but, as
+hundreds might be concealed in the neighborhood, we armed to the teeth.
+Old flint-lock muskets, rusty with long idleness, were dragged from
+their hiding-places, and treated to a dose of oil, to limber their aged
+joints; new flints were fitted to the locks, and everything put in good
+order. The guns were heavily charged with powder and shot; pistols and
+cutlasses, dirks and bowie-knives, were all in readiness, and the boat
+was alongside, manned by the sailors ready to receive us. Mr. F., the
+first and second mates, and myself, pushed off for the shore. We landed
+at some distance from the object of our visit, that we might have a
+better opportunity to survey the country around. Before the boat fairly
+felt the bottom, the second mate jumped into the water, and ran along
+the beach, until he could see that the supposed Indian was a large bird.
+He raised his gun, and fired; the bird came tumbling down the precipice,
+and, on running up, we found it to be a large condor. The Dutchman had
+broken his wing. We caught our prize and took it on board the vessel,
+and were heartily laughed at for our pains by the captain, who had been
+viewing the onslaught through the glass. Mr. F. was teased by him many
+days for the intrepidity of his charge on the poor bird, rushing to the
+attack with a drawn sword in one hand, and a cocked pistol in the other.
+We all felt a little crest-fallen, I must admit, after having made such
+formidable preparations for an Indian fight, to return with so
+inglorious a prize; but, as none of my former tormentors could
+reasonably be supposed to have strayed to this part of the country, and
+I had no animosities towards other tribes to be gratified, I felt, on
+the whole, very well satisfied with the result. We measured the bird;
+but, as I was not "takin' notes" at the time, it is now impossible to
+give its dimensions; it was very large.
+
+The next day we commenced beating under a head-wind through the second
+narrows; but, when partially through, it commenced blowing so severely
+that we were compelled to return to our anchorage at Cape Gregory. The
+following day we double-reefed the sails, beat through the narrows, and
+anchored in Oazy Harbor. Here we went on shore, and discovered traces of
+Indians; the smoke of their fires was seen to the westward. We roamed
+about on shore for some hours, but found nothing to interest us; it was
+all exceeding bare and monotonous. The breeze continuing fresh ahead, we
+remained one day in the harbor, spending our leisure in shooting
+sea-fowls, which were very abundant. Once more we got under way, and
+anchored off the mouth of Pecket Harbor until daylight, then stood into
+Royal Road, and passed to the westward of Elizabeth Island into Catalina
+Bay.
+
+Before passing Sandy Point, we saw several horses, and a Chilian flag
+flying. We hauled in and came to anchor, as we wished to procure wood
+and water. A large gathering of Spaniards from the settlement came to
+the shore. Among them I noticed a little man, handsomely dressed, with a
+beautiful cloak, and a cap having a wide gilt band; he appeared to be
+about fifty years old. A young man, of perhaps thirty, of fine
+appearance, accompanied him. He was dressed in military costume, blue
+trousers with white side-stripe, blue coat with standing collar, and
+cloth cap with a gilt band. These important personages were no less than
+the governor and his highest officer. They were walking along in
+conversation, and came down to meet us as we landed, shaking hands, and
+asking us where we were from, whither bound, and if we stood in need of
+anything. Capt. Morton could understand the Spanish, when spoken, easier
+than he could speak it himself. I therefore acted as spokesman, and
+replied that we wanted wood and water. After learning the quantity
+needed, his excellency gave his men orders to cut and split the wood,
+and draw it to the shore; and said that if we would send our water-casks
+ashore, his men should fill them. In due time both orders were
+executed, and we received a good supply of these necessary stores. We
+were then invited to the governor's house. His table was sumptuously
+spread, and we were entertained in the most handsome style. He was a
+kind, gentlemanly man, and refused to receive a penny for the supplies
+he furnished us, but accepted some presents from the captain. The young
+officer also treated us very politely, and hospitably entertained us in
+his house. Our vessel remained here about a week. Every day the governor
+sent us a large bucket of sweet milk, and sometimes fresh beef. The
+place was a Chilian penal settlement. He was about removing the colony
+from Port Famine here, on account of the superiority of the soil. The
+young soldier and the Catholic _padre_ were his principal officers. A
+part of the colony yet remained at Port Famine.
+
+One day, while walking out with the governor to look at the settlement,
+he asked if we were acquainted with coal. I replied, pointing to Mr. F.,
+that he had been an engineer on several steamboats, and ought to be able
+to judge of _carbon_, as they called it. He sent his men along the
+little brook to look for some. They soon returned with several small
+specimens, which Mr. F. pronounced good coal. The governor said that the
+little brook led up to a large coal-mine, six or seven miles back, and
+he requested us to go and look at it. The next day he renewed the
+proposal, offered us horses and a man to clear the way, and said the
+_padre_ would accompany us. I hesitated a little, suggesting that we
+might fall in with Indians. But he said, and the priest concurred, that
+there was no danger on that score, and we consented to go. We
+accordingly went on shore the following morning, and found horses in
+readiness for us. Mr. F., the _padre_ and myself, started off,
+accompanied by a Spaniard on foot, armed with an axe, to clear away the
+obstructions in our path. After leaving the settlement, we plunged into
+a thick wood, on low, marshy ground, and followed a blind trail, leading
+now over the trunk of a large tree, which our horses leaped with
+difficulty, now across a quagmire, which had to be filled with bushes to
+furnish a foothold, and again was obstructed by an overhanging tree, or
+pendent branch, which arrested our progress till it could be cut away.
+In this manner we worked a passage for about a mile, when we emerged
+into an upland region free from underbrush. By this time, the thought
+recurred that it was rather imprudent travelling unarmed in that
+miserable country, infested by savage men and wild beasts; but I was in
+for it, and jogged along with dogged resolution. The face of the country
+became more uneven as we proceeded, tall trees were numerous, and we
+caught an occasional glimpse of snow on the hills. We soon reached a
+height at which there was abundance of snow. Our guide strode in
+advance, his Spanish axe swung upon his shoulder, calmly whistling a
+tune to himself. As we were descending a steep place, my horse suddenly
+stopped, and bent his head and legs to the ground,--the saddle slipped
+over his head, and his rider instantly found himself about thirty feet
+below, his head and hands stuck fast in the snow, and his heels elevated
+high in air. A little smart exertion extricated me from my uncomfortable
+position. Our guide came to me, uttering maledictions on the stumbling
+beast. Clambering with me back to where the horse stood, he beat him
+soundly, and again girt the saddle so tightly that I almost feared it
+would sever his body. I remonstrated, but he replied that it was a bad
+horse, and was playing old tricks. At the bottom of the declivity I
+remounted; we travelled through the snow as far as we could ride, then
+left our horses and continued our way on foot. The snow was very deep,
+in places frozen hard enough to bear our weight. A walk of a mile or
+more brought us, with some fatigue, to the coal-mine. But there was such
+a depth of snow that we could see only here and there a projection of
+coal in the banks of the brook which runs down from the mountains to the
+settlement.
+
+The coal was pronounced by Mr. F. to be of good quality for steamboat
+use. Some pieces which we brought down with us burned very freely, and
+emitted great heat. Mr. F. thought it a great discovery, and had an
+inclination to apply to the Chilian government for permission to work
+the mine. The Buenos Ayrean government, also, I was informed, laid claim
+to this desolate country. Forest trees, of great size, both of hard and
+soft wood, appeared to be abundant; and numerous streams of water are
+convenient, which could readily supply water-power sufficient to
+manufacture almost any quantity of lumber. A canal might very easily be
+dug to the straits, or a railroad might be constructed, so as to take
+the coal, with little trouble, from the mine to the colony. The _padre_
+said that an English company, some time ago, started to explore this
+mine, but, on account of the great depth of snow, gave up the enterprise
+without inspection.
+
+We returned to the settlement before night, and went to the young
+officer's house, where we were bountifully supplied with refreshments,
+and had a very pleasant, sociable interview, into which the priest
+entered with due spirit, in respect both to the physical and mental
+refreshments. Returned to the vessel at dusk. The next morning we
+landed some goods, and traded with the people. The principal articles
+purchased were cougar-skins, guanaco-skins, and a few ostrich-skins,
+sewed together in the form of a cape, the long feathers being extracted,
+leaving a soft, downy surface. The governor asked permission, which the
+captain readily granted, for some of the women to visit the vessel and
+trade on board; and in the afternoon half a dozen or more of them
+visited us, viewed the vessel, purchased such articles as they wanted,
+and were then set on shore. We spent here a day or two more very
+agreeably, trading with the convicts and gunning in the vicinity of the
+settlement. We had a little sport in trying to capture some sea-lions
+that were gambolling around the vessel, but were unsuccessful. We saw
+the skin of one that had been captured by one of the convicts; it was
+black, covered with a thick coat of coarse hair, or rather bristles. In
+size they were about equal to the common bull-dog. They rise every now
+and then to the surface of the water, to blow, like a porpoise. We bade
+the governor, the young officer and the _padre_, an affectionate
+farewell. Their kindness and courtesy had made our visit so agreeable
+that we were almost sorry to leave them. Not long after our departure,
+we were shocked to learn that they had met with a sudden and cruel fate.
+The convicts mutinied, and rose upon the officers. The governor and the
+priest succeeded in reaching the opposite shore, where they remained
+three days without food. They decided to return to the settlement, and
+abide the consequences, whatever they might be. The convicts bound them
+hand and foot, roasted them alive, burned their bones, and danced over
+their ashes! We had parted from them expecting never again to see their
+faces, but had loved to think of them as still inhabiting that bleak
+shore, turning it, by the magic of their cheerful temper, into a
+pleasant garden, and warming it in the glow of their kindly hearts.
+Their end was in such fearful contrast to their lives, and did such
+violence to our remembrance of their virtues, that the tidings affected
+us with a sense of personal loss, and made that lonely spot at once
+among the happiest and the saddest of my experience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting.
+
+
+Our next stopping-place was Port Famine. We were visited, the first
+evening after we anchored, by the acting governor of the colony and
+their Irish doctor. The captain and myself went on shore the next day,
+and made a very agreeable visit to the officers, who treated us with
+much politeness. We spent two or three days here. We next cast anchor in
+Saint Nicholas' Bay, a beautiful harbor. Going on shore, we observed the
+names of a number of vessels that had preceded us through the straits
+carved upon trees, with the dates of the several inscriptions; we added
+our own to the catalogue. There were some deserted bush-huts, probably
+of Terra-del-Fuegans, who frequently cross over the straits in their
+canoes, when fishing. A small, shallow stream, of much beauty, flows
+into the harbor; we rowed up it for some distance, gunning on the
+banks. From this point, several ineffectual attempts were made to
+advance; but we were driven back as soon as we cleared Cape Froward, and
+obliged to retreat to our anchorage. Our vessel was flat, and could not
+hold on before a stiff breeze, but was inclined, like a crab, to move
+sideways. The wind having subsided, we made sail late in the afternoon,
+succeeded in doubling Cape Froward, and dropped anchor in Snug Bay; but,
+not being pleased with our position, weighed anchor, and continued our
+course to Fortescue Bay. In passing Cape Holland we saw a large company
+of Indians. They paraded on the shore with dingy flags flying, and waved
+skins in the air to invite our approach; but we kept on our way without
+noticing them; anchored, the next afternoon, in Port Gallant,--a fine
+harbor, sheltered from all winds. We observed the wreck of some large
+vessel, and conjectured that it might be that of a French bark of which
+we were told at Port Famine, which was run ashore and plundered by the
+Indians, who murdered the crew. We were advised to keep a sharp look-out
+for Indians here, which we failed not to do; but none made their
+appearance. As we beat up Crooked Beach, and passed the end of Carlos
+III. Islands, we discovered a white flag flying on the Terra-del-Fuegan
+shore. Thinking it might be the signal of some white people who had been
+shipwrecked, we stood over into the opposite channel, near enough to see
+Indians and their canoes on the beach, ready to pay us a visit. We hove
+about, having no desire to make their acquaintance, and anchored,
+towards night, in the beautiful Borga Bay, opposite.
+
+The most difficult and dangerous feature of navigation in the straits is
+the encountering of sudden and violent squalls, which strike the vessel
+without the least warning, and are frequently enough to wreck her in a
+few minutes even in the hands of the most experienced seamen. We found
+on shore inscriptions of California-bound vessels, as before. On a
+branch of a tree overhanging a little stream, we found a bottle
+suspended, containing papers. This was taken on board, and its contents
+examined. Three or four vessels, passing through the straits, had left
+memoranda of their experience,--such as snow-storms, loss of spars,
+anchors, chains, &c. Captain Morton wrote a humorous account of our
+voyage, to deposit in this repository of curiosities; and I added a
+contribution, narrating my capture by the Indians and escape, with a
+request that, if it should fall into hands bound for the United States
+or England, it might be published. I little thought that it would bear
+to my anxious friends the first intelligence of my safety. I left
+letters at Sea-Lion Island, to be forwarded by the first opportunity,
+which failed to reach their destination; but this, bottled and suspended
+from a tree in the wilderness, first fell into the hands of an Indian,
+who sold it to some passing trader, by whom the soiled writing was
+deciphered, and kindly forwarded to Smith's News-room, in Boston, and
+was published in the "Boston Atlas."
+
+Our progress was slow, both wind and tide being against us; a strong
+current set constantly to the eastward. At Swallow Harbor, where we next
+anchored, we were completely sheltered from the winds, except that which
+came down from the lofty mountains, called by the sailors "willewaws."
+The scenery around is exceedingly wild. There was a beautiful waterfall
+on the mountain side, the stream probably fed by melting snow. We
+stopped at many harbors as we passed along, most of them quite secure
+when entered, but difficult of access. Half-port Bay, at which we
+touched, is very properly named. It is but a slight indentation in the
+land, and has a bottom affording very poor holding-ground, covered with
+kelp; besides, it is very imperfectly sheltered from the wind. While
+lying here we had a severe gale from the westward, which produced
+considerable "chop." Our vessel dragged her anchors, in consequence of
+their becoming foul with kelp. However, by dropping our kedge-anchor,
+and loading the chains, we succeeded in arresting our motion before
+striking the rocks. We had a narrow escape.
+
+At Cape Monday, having cast anchor, we discovered, towards night, a
+steamer on the Patagonian side, bound westward. Our colors were set, as
+there were indications of a dark and stormy night, and the steamer
+turned about and steered for our harbor. This was a pleasant
+circumstance, as the captain meant, if possible, to get towed through
+the straits. The vessel anchored near us, and proved to be the Fire Fly,
+Captain Smith master, built for an English gentleman residing in
+Talchuana, and now bound to Valparaiso. Captain Smith had his daughter
+with him, and half a dozen passengers. We visited them, and were very
+civilly received, invited into the cabin, and introduced to the young
+lady. On hearing my name, she observed that they found at Borga Bay a
+paper in a bottle, describing the captivity of a person bearing the same
+name in Patagonia, with an account of his escape. Captain Morton
+informed her that I was the writer of that document. "Is it possible?"
+she exclaimed; "then you are the hero of those adventures!" "I certainly
+am the unfortunate person there described," I replied, "though wholly
+undeserving the name of hero." She expressed, as did all the passengers,
+much sympathy, and asked many questions in regard to the treatment
+received and the life led during my captivity.
+
+Captain Smith suggested that I might be able to give him some
+information in regard to two Englishmen who had been captured by the
+savages. He had orders from the Board of Admiralty to make search at any
+places at which he might touch on the Patagonian coast, and endeavor to
+learn something of their fate. I told him that I knew something of
+certain English prisoners in that country, and proceeded to relate what
+I had learned from the Indians of the murder of Captain Eaton, and the
+capture and subsequent murder of Messrs. Sims and Douglass; giving the
+names of the vessel and the prisoners from information communicated by
+Mr. Hall. Captain Smith produced his letter of instructions, and the
+names and circumstances perfectly coincided, except that the
+instructions described the Avon as a ship, while she was styled by Mr.
+Hall as a brig; an immaterial variation, as all classes of vessels often
+pass under the general designation of "ships." My deposition of the
+facts was written out by two of the passengers, and, having been read to
+me, I signed it, for transmission to England. The English government,
+Captain Smith said, had been at great pains and expense to obtain
+information of those unfortunate young men, who belonged to highly
+respectable families in England, and to facilitate their escape. Boats
+had been sent out and buried in the sand, and a great number of
+handkerchiefs had been printed, containing particular statements of the
+situation of the buried boats; these had been distributed to vessels
+bound near the Patagonian coast, to be thrown ashore, in the hope that
+they might be picked up by Indians, and thus convey the desired
+information to the prisoners, if they were living. In hearing what the
+British government had done for its unfortunate subjects, I indulged in
+some bitter remarks on the supposed neglect of our government in respect
+to my fate, in leaving me (as I presumed to think) to perish among
+cannibals, without making any effort to learn my fate, or to rescue me
+from destruction; remarks of which I had abundant cause to be ashamed,
+when I learned what had been actually attempted in my behalf.
+
+We could effect no arrangement to be towed by the steamer, as the
+captain said his stock of fuel was too small to warrant running the risk
+of being retarded; besides, in case of accident, it would affect his
+insurance. We spent part of the evening on board the steamer; very soon
+after returning to our ship, a boat, containing two or three of the
+passengers, drew up alongside, and a package was put into my hands
+containing ten dollars, and a letter, signed by the captain and
+passengers, requesting my acceptance of the gift, as a slight token of
+their regard and sympathy. While returning my hearty thanks for such a
+demonstration of kindness to a stranger, I begged to decline the money;
+but they urged its acceptance, and I reluctantly gratified their wishes.
+
+All the next day we beat along, till we found anchorage at Round Island
+for the night. On nearing the harbor, a mast was observed on the rocks,
+lying partly out of the water. I took the boat, early the next morning,
+to ascertain if it was attached to a wreck; but found that it was
+loose, and must have drifted there. I knocked off the iron band and
+cross-trees from the mast-head, and brought them on board our vessel. At
+Tamer Harbor, our next port, we noticed the wreck of a new vessel, lying
+well up on the shore, her bottom badly shattered by the rocks on which
+she had been driven, and both masts gone; it proved to be the "John A.
+Sutter," of Rhode Island. On the opposite shore were parts of
+iron-mills, and other machinery, probably designed for use in
+California. The shore was strewed with trunks and chests, from the
+wreck; she had been stripped of everything valuable. The cabin on deck
+had been cut, and partially burned, by those touching at the harbor. We
+fished up a bundle of steel rods from the hold, which was partly filled
+with sand and water. The vessel had been wrecked, as we afterwards
+ascertained, in a thick fog, on one of the little islands off the
+western mouth of the straits, and drifted back to the harbor, where we
+found her. While we were here, the schooner Julius Pringle, of New
+London, bound to California, came in and anchored. The next day a fine
+wind bore us to Mercy Harbor, the last anchorage in the Straits of
+Magellan. The harbor is a good one; and we determined not to leave it
+till we had a good wind, that would take us well out, far enough to
+clear the islands lying off the north side. We remained several days
+waiting for a south-westerly wind, during which delay a pilot-boat,
+bound for the golden country, came up with us. Our time here was spent
+very agreeably; our passage through the straits had consumed fifty-one
+days, and had been effected without accident, though we had witnessed
+repeated tokens of disaster to some of our predecessors. By way of
+celebrating our success, we got up a "clam-bake," _minus_ the clams, in
+lieu of which we collected and roasted a quantity of muscles, by burying
+them in the earth, and applying hot stones; they proved excellent
+eating, and we had "a good time."
+
+Our mate, who was a sensible young man, of good education, had two
+foibles; he was a decided grumbler, and, in his conviviality, he was a
+little _too_ far from total abstinence. He had a particular dislike of a
+dog on board, purchased at Sandy Point,--a thievish rascal, that always
+had his nose in anything that was dirty; even the tar and slush-buckets
+did not escape his attentions. On the evening of the clam-bake, the mate
+was a little exhilarated; and, having pulled off his pea-jacket
+preparatory to "turning in" for the night, he seized Bose, mistaking him
+for the jacket he had just dropped, and threw him into his berth. The
+dog was not at all displeased with such comfortable quarters, and lay
+down very nicely with his unexpected bed-fellow. I observed the mate,
+the next morning, sitting near his berth, yawning; his eyes presently
+rested on the detested Bose; his feet were in quick motion, and an
+unceremonious kick turned the dog out as suddenly as he had been turned
+in. The incident afforded us a hearty laugh at the mate's expense, who
+became, for the rest of the voyage, a decided temperance man.
+
+Tired of our detention, we put off in unfavorable weather; the Pringle
+and the pilot-boat (whose name I have forgotten) getting out with us,
+but we found it expedient to retreat to our anchorage. A gale soon
+followed, which prolonged our stay; when its fury was past, we got out
+and proceeded northward, for Callao. In passing the port of Juan
+Fernandez, we saw a whaling-ship just putting out to sea; we had
+designed to stop here for some supplies, but concluded that we could
+better obtain them at Callao, and held on our course. In our way to
+Callao we spoke the bark Sarah, Captain Morse, from New Bedford, bound
+to California with a company of sixty members, of which Captain Morse
+was president. Our captain told them that he had on board a man from New
+Bedford,--Captain Bourne,--escaped from captivity among the Indians.
+Captain Morse replied that he recollected the sloop of war Vandalia was
+sent down to the straits in search of him. Presently a crowd of persons
+surrounded the captain of the Sarah, who appeared to be talking
+earnestly; the bark was soon hove to, and several gentlemen from New
+Bedford came to us in a boat. They seemed overjoyed to find me alive and
+well, and made numerous inquiries about my captivity and rescue. They
+informed me that the Vandalia was despatched by our government to my
+relief, with orders to punish my captors, if expedient and practicable.
+From them, also, I gained the first information concerning my ship and
+shipmates; it seemed that the vessel, with the Hebe and the J. B. Gager,
+lost their chains and anchors in the straits, and dragged out to sea.
+The John Allyne, after steering two or three days for Montevideo, to
+repair and obtain supplies, ascertained that they had water enough
+aboard to carry them around Cape Horn, the only practicable course, as,
+without chains and anchors, it was impossible to enter the straits. With
+the concurrence of all on board, it was decided to attempt the passage
+round the cape as they were. They encountered a gale off the Horn; and,
+while lying to, the vessel was knocked on her beam ends. The second
+mate, Mr. F. Crapo, of New Bedford, was washed overboard, and lost;
+others were badly bruised, some narrowly escaping the doom of the mate.
+The cabin partly filled with water; but the schooner righted, with the
+loss of spars, sails, bulwarks, caboose, and stanchions. She finally
+weathered the gale, and arrived at Valparaiso, forty-one days after I
+was left in Patagonia. Here the vessel was repaired, at great cost, and
+proceeded safely to California. After the relation of this chapter of
+accidents, I gave them a brief narrative of my adventures among the
+Patagonians; they returned towards night to their ship. The wind was
+light, and in the morning we were still near each other; several of the
+passengers came to us in a boat, bringing with them a quantity of
+American newspapers. I found in them notices of the disasters that
+befell my vessel, and the particulars of my capture. The papers were
+lent to me until we should meet at Callao,--a great favor; their
+contents were devoured with a high relish, as they were the first
+American papers I had seen since my capture. Both vessels arrived
+safely, on the third day afterwards, at Callao.
+
+In the evening after our arrival, I went with the captain and Mr. F. on
+board the Sarah, and spent an hour very agreeably. The passengers had
+agreed to take the diligence next morning, and visit the city of Lima,
+six miles distant, and they invited us to join them. Mr. F. assented,
+but I declined, preferring, on the whole, to remain on shipboard. The
+party were on shore betimes the next morning, except Mr. F., who
+consumed so much time in urging me to go with them, in which Captain
+Morton joined, that he said the company must have got off; and, unless I
+would accompany him on horseback, he would have to bear me company in
+the ship; so, rather than disappoint him, though caring but little
+personally for the jaunt, I yielded. We went ashore immediately,
+procured horses, and, having found our friends, rambled over the city,
+viewing the numerous public buildings by which it is adorned. We were
+continually beset by shrivelled, cadaverous beggars; they posted
+themselves at every corner, and besought us, by the Blessed Virgin, to
+give them alms. The day passed, on the whole, so pleasantly, and there
+remained so many objects of interest unvisited, we rather regretted that
+it was not longer. The diligence drove up to the hotel towards evening,
+to take our friends to the port; we started for our horses, intending to
+overtake and accompany them in their drive, but missed our way. Some
+time elapsed before we found ourselves at the gate of the city, opening
+on the beautiful public road to Callao. As we passed out, we drew up at
+a respectable-looking ranche; two young Spaniards appeared to be the
+only occupants. With some little delay, during which one of the two
+stepped out at a back door, we procured cigars, lighted them, and were
+moving towards the entrance. Whilst I was paying for them, my companion
+got the start of me. As I was placing my foot in the stirrup, twenty or
+thirty mounted horsemen dashed through the gateway, up to the house.
+They were armed to the teeth; their holsters stuck full of pistols, and
+I could see shining blades protruding through their garments. They had a
+desperate, lawless look, unlike that of soldiers or civil officers, and
+it seemed to me they were no better than they should be. I thought of
+the delay in giving us our cigars, and it struck me that one of the
+troop strongly resembled the fellow who stepped out so quietly on our
+entrance. I sprang into the saddle and gave my horse two or three smart
+raps, under the stimulus of which he cleared the causeway between the
+sidewalk and the road at a single bound, and speedily overtook my
+companion. He had caught a glimpse of the armed cavalcade, and we urged
+our horses at full speed for about a mile, without looking back. On
+turning, nothing was seen but a long streak of dust. We then compared
+notes touching the armed men, and agreed that we were best off at a
+distance from them. We made the best of our way to Callao, which we
+reached a little after dark, and found the captain delighted at our safe
+return, as he had feared some accident, having heard since morning of
+several robberies lately committed on that road. He had been told that a
+perfect understanding existed between the robbers and the people of
+Callao, who gave daily intelligence of persons leaving the port for the
+city; and that even officers of the government were suspected of
+conniving at these outrages, if not actually in league with the
+banditti. As yet, all attempts to ferret them out and break up their
+combination had failed. Our description of the party we encountered so
+far agreed with the statements of American residents at Callao, that we
+were congratulated, and felt disposed to congratulate ourselves, on our
+safe journey. Neither of us was burdened with _plata_, and we had no
+more effective weapons than our jack-knives.
+
+As a national vessel had been ordered to the coast of Patagonia for my
+relief, I thought it my duty to report myself the next day to the
+American consul, who was much interested by the recital of my
+experience. The brig Ann and Julia, Captain McAlister, of New Orleans,
+came into port a day or two after. Captain McAlister said that the
+Vandalia came into Rio Janeiro while he was there, shipped more men, and
+sailed southward in great haste.
+
+Having obtained wood and water and other necessary supplies, we put out
+to sea once more. I must not omit to record the kindness shown, and the
+still greater kindness tendered me, by the captain of the Sarah, and all
+the members of the company. They offered me a free passage and any
+assistance I might need on arrival in California; but the generosity of
+Captain Morton had supplied all present needs, and, with all gratitude
+for their proffered aid, I was not willing to tax their bounty in
+advance. We stood well to the westward before crossing the line, as only
+light winds can be expected before reaching from five to seven degrees
+of north or south latitude, when the trade-winds set in. We had a
+passage of thirty-seven days from Callao to San Francisco, which was in
+very good time, considering the sailing qualities of our vessel. We
+anchored in the beautiful harbor, February 19, 1850, one year and seven
+days from the date of my leaving New Bedford.
+
+Any description of San Francisco would be altogether superfluous, as her
+streets, even, are familiar in the states as household words. I found,
+upon going ashore, letters from those most dear to me, which had long
+awaited my arrival; also one from a brother then in California. He
+stated that immediately on hearing of my misfortunes he started for San
+Francisco to see Commodore Jones, then on that station, and endeavor to
+induce him to make an effort for my release. On making his business
+known, the gallant commodore informed him that he had already heard of
+it, and had despatched the sloop-of-war Levant for my rescue, in the
+full confidence that the enterprise would be successful. When I was
+telling the Indian council that flourishing story of my consequence at
+home, and of the big ships and little ships, the big guns and little
+guns, that were at my command, ready to avenge any mischief they might
+do me, I little thought how literally the action of our government, and
+the spontaneous kindness of Commodore Jones, were verifying my words.
+The sympathy manifested in my behalf by the gallant commodore deserves
+more than this passing notice. My brother also left a deposit of funds
+against my arrival, if it ever occurred, of the probability of which he
+was in some doubt; also his address, and that of another brother, who
+was then at the mines. I could learn but little as to the fate of my
+vessel, or of my effects on board, except that she had duly arrived
+there, and, after much disagreement and dispute among the company, had
+been sold for a trifle above the costs of repair on the passage. This
+operation, I thought, savored little of Yankee shrewdness; since we
+arrived at a later date, with a vessel of about the same size, age and
+value, at a time when shipping was in less demand, and sold her for
+nearly three times the amount. I was happy to meet many acquaintances,
+who gave me a hearty welcome, and showed me kindness I can never forget.
+
+The schooner J. Pringle, from which we parted on issuing from the
+Straits of Magellan, arrived in port very soon after us, having touched
+at Valparaiso. Her captain said that he found the sloop-of-war Vandalia
+at Valparaiso, to obtain chains and an anchor, as she had lost one
+anchor and one hundred and thirty fathoms of chain in Possession Bay,
+and was obliged to double Cape Horn. She was to sail again for Patagonia
+as soon as the damages were repaired, entering the western mouth of the
+straits. Captain B. reported my escape, and that I was safe on board the
+Hopewell, for California, informing the officers that he parted company
+with me at Mercy Harbor--intelligence that was received with
+demonstrations of lively pleasure.
+
+Being unable to obtain any information of my personal effects, left on
+the John Allyne, I left this mushroom city on the third day after my
+arrival, and took passage in the steamer Senator for Sacramento, at the
+moderate fare of _twenty-five dollars_ for a passage of a few hours'
+duration. I found this city of rag houses full of the indications of its
+recent and rapid settlement. The streets abounded in mud, a foot or more
+in depth. Here I recovered my chest, but the trunks containing my
+clothing were missing. Our company, it appeared, had broken up, and its
+members were dispersed hither and thither in the mines, every man for
+himself. My brothers, as near as I could ascertain, were seventy miles
+distant, possibly removed to the Middle Fork of the American river, and
+I decided to start on foot. Accordingly, having purchased, at enormous
+prices, a pair of red flannel blankets, thick boots, a rifle and
+revolver, and other necessary equipments, I set out for the mines the
+next morning, in company with two or three persons from the States. The
+road was exceedingly muddy, but materially improved after passing
+Sutter's Fort. We had travelled ten miles, when I found that my feet
+were so badly blistered that I could proceed no further, and advised my
+companions to go on without me. My feet were in fact almost completely
+skinned. After resting at a public-house till the next morning, and
+encasing my sore feet in a pair of poor, thin shoes, I pursued my
+journey. I made very slow progress. An ox-team overtook me, the owner of
+which kept a house, or, more properly speaking, a booth, for boarding
+and lodging miners, five or six miles ahead. He kindly offered me a
+ride, which I gladly accepted, and lodged with him for the night.
+
+My journey the next day was less fatiguing; on the day following I
+arrived at Georgetown, where I found that my brothers had built them a
+house and spent the winter, but had now left the place, and removed to
+the Middle Fork. The distance was twenty miles by one route and fifteen
+by another. The longest road was considered the best, and I followed it,
+lodging at night in a low grog-shop, denominated an inn. A snow-storm
+detained me here during the next forenoon. By noon it appeared to have
+cleared up, and I resumed my march, but had not gone more than a mile
+before it began snowing again, as fast as before; yet I was resolved not
+to turn back. The snow, however, fell so fast, and with increasing
+violence, and the road was so wretched, that this resolution was
+somewhat shaken. The way led through a forest of lofty pines, the land
+broken by deep _gulches_ and high hills. As I trudged along through the
+deep snow, my attention was suddenly attracted to a clump of bushes by
+the wayside, that appeared to wave to and fro, as if agitated by
+something more than wind. I felt for my knife and pistol, to make sure
+they were where they could be made immediately available, placed my hand
+on the lock of my rifle, and awaited in silence the approach of my
+unseen visitor. Presently a pair of large, glistening eyes glared at me
+through an opening in the bushes. Nothing else was discernible; the
+form, and even the head, of the animal to whom these fierce optics
+appertained, could not be made out. But their gaze was fixed steadily
+upon me, and I returned it with equal steadiness, if not equal
+brilliancy and effect, without once changing my position. I had heard of
+looking wild animals out of countenance, and determined to try the
+experiment, before resorting to any other decisive measures. After
+gazing fixedly at the mysterious occupant of the thicket for a few
+minutes, he turned and walked leisurely away, giving me only an
+imperfect view of his figure. So far as I could distinguish the shape,
+it appeared to be a grisly bear, though not of the largest size. I was
+glad to get rid of so ugly a customer on such easy terms, and went on my
+way rejoicing, though it was a weary and desolate one.
+
+Being very much fatigued, I halted at the foot of a large oak-tree, as
+the shades of evening were closing around me, with the design of
+climbing it, and spending the night as comfortably as I could in its
+branches,--the lodging that I had anticipated might be the only
+available one. But, after a few minutes' rest, I roused my flagging
+energies and concluded to feel--for I could not see--my way a little
+further, before _roosting_ for the night. The darkness of the night,
+deepened by the storm, hid the path so effectually, that the Yankee
+faculty of _guessing_ was called into abundant exercise. I trudged
+along, however, with dogged determination, which was very soon rewarded.
+Half a mile had scarcely been passed, when a bright light greeted me,
+issuing from a tent. Walking up to it, I found it occupied by three men,
+emigrants from the vicinity of my native place. They cordially welcomed
+and hospitably entertained me, on learning who I was, and promised me
+every assistance in their power.
+
+The next morning I set out again, and reached the river. I was at no
+loss to designate the spot where my brothers were likely to be found,
+but a formidable barrier interposed: a rapid and swollen stream
+separated us, just as we were almost within speaking distance. I walked
+along the shore to find a log or some wood with which to construct a
+float; nothing could be found. It was a grievous disappointment; my evil
+star, I thought, had not yet waned. At the opposite shore, fastened to
+the branch of a tree, lay a snug little raft, as if in mockery. I must
+spend the night, it seemed, on the river banks, without food or shelter,
+and within sight of my friends. Just before night I was fortunate enough
+to descry a man on the further shore, who appeared to be on the look-out
+for some one, and hailed him. He answered, and forthwith took me over. I
+was soon in the presence of my two brothers, neither of whom at first
+recognized me. It was a happy meeting, and on their part wholly
+unexpected, as they had given me up for lost. After many congratulations
+and innumerable questions, rapidly interchanged, I mentioned the
+difficulty I had in making the last stage of the journey to them,--the
+passage of the river. They said that they were on the look-out that
+evening for one of their number: otherwise, I might have staid there a
+week without attracting the attention of anybody. They congratulated me
+on my ill success in searching for a log, or the materials to construct
+a float. The attempt to cross would have been extremely hazardous, and
+very likely fatal. The river was full of rapids, eccentric currents, and
+other perils, making it at all times difficult to cross, with the best
+facilities that could be commanded. Of all this I had ample confirmation
+in no long time after. Two men started to paddle themselves over in a
+canoe at the same place. Before they reached the opposite shore, their
+canoe was borne down the stream into the rapids, and dashed to pieces
+against the rocks. One of them was drowned; the other caught the top of
+a small tree just before reaching the rapids. By collecting all the
+ropes and lines we could find, attaching a stone to one end and throwing
+it within his reach, the means of rescue, after several trials, were put
+into his power. Such was the roar of the waters we could not speak in
+tones audible by him, but made signs to him to secure the rope about his
+body, and he was drawn to the shore in safety. A similar accident
+afterwards happened to one of my brothers, in attempting to cross with
+another man upon a raft. The swift current drifted them within the power
+of the rapids, and it was only by the greatest exertions that they
+escaped the boiling abyss below.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered.
+
+
+On my arrival at the mines, I found my brothers engaged in a company of
+twenty men, organized for the purpose of tunnelling a mountain ridge,
+and digging a raceway at its base, with a view to dam the river and turn
+it through the tunnel. By this means the bed of the river, for a mile or
+more, would be laid bare, and gold in great profusion, it was believed,
+would be discovered. Nineteen of the members were on the ground; the
+twentieth was unable to come; and, though there were several applicants
+for the vacancy, I was chosen to fill it. We commenced operations in
+about a week. It may give a clearer idea of the magnitude of the work,
+to state that an excavation, twelve feet wide by seven deep, was made,
+by blasting through rock (slate and granite) a distance of over a
+hundred feet. The race was nearly half a mile in length; the prices paid
+for every article of food were enormous. Before turning the river, we
+let out the expected field of gold to be worked by seven hundred men,
+who were to give us one-half of the produce; there was great
+expectation. The work was the greatest of this nature that had yet been
+undertaken in California; we had worked hard through a whole season, and
+brought it to a successful completion, without any fatal accident,
+though several dangerous circumstances had threatened to retard its
+progress. Everything being prepared, the dam was closed, the river
+rose,--pressed, as if angrily, against the new barrier that opposed its
+wonted flow,--and then sullenly explored the novel course that solicited
+its waters. The dry channel was eagerly attacked; but, alas for human
+hopes! it proved to be anything but rich; in fact, it was less favorable
+for working than the average, and the diggers abandoned the spot,
+leaving the company chagrined, and greatly disheartened at their
+fruitless conclusion.
+
+I came very near being delivered from this disappointment, and from all
+other earthly cares,--those of authorship included,--by a hasty trip
+into the rapids. During the intervals of our work, a young man of the
+company undertook with me to construct a canoe, and establish a ferry
+for passengers across the river. Our skiff, on its completion, was
+carried by all hands to the river bank, and committed to the stream,
+with all the ceremonies customary on the launching of larger craft. A
+successful adventure was made, the next day, with one passenger. On the
+following day six miners applied for passage; I took half of them on
+board, with their picks, pans and shovels, and started with them. We had
+approached within ten feet of the opposite bank, when a counter-current
+suddenly struck us, whirled the head of the boat from the direction of
+the shore, and, in spite of the utmost exertion, carried us into the
+stream, and almost over the rapids. By a successful manoeuvre we
+turned her head up stream, and paddled moderately till we had passed the
+dangerous spot. At length, after a great struggle with imminent danger,
+in the midst of which the passengers were praying and crying for mercy
+and help, we reached some trees, standing in the swollen stream. By
+taking hold of one of the branches the boat was brought to, but with
+such violence as to dash in her side; we sprang safely into the trees as
+soon as the boat struck. Our friends on shore cut poles, and extended
+them to us, by help of which we were soon on terra firma. Our boat
+rolled over, and sunk. An attack of dysentery soon after interrupted my
+work, but not for a great length of time.
+
+After the failure of our river speculation, I spent some time
+"prospecting" for a desirable "digging." Before one was discovered that
+offered much inducement, I was again prostrated by illness, during which
+my brothers joined me, with the mournful intelligence that my little son
+was no more! These heavy tidings, at such a time, proved almost too much
+for an enfeebled body and anxious mind; it was the thought of my little
+family that nerved my spirit against despair, in the darkest hours of
+captivity. A blow _there_ turned my strength into weakness, and my
+weakness well-nigh into absolute helplessness.
+
+It would be too far from the purpose of this volume to solicit the
+reader's company through all my wanderings for a year and a half in this
+wonderful country, to which so many high hopes are carried, and from
+which so many sad disappointments are daily borne. It is enough to say
+that I had six successive attacks of sickness, the last the most severe
+of all; I was brought to death's door, and had little hope of seeing
+home again. After a month's illness, my medical attendant advised a
+return to the States, as soon as I could bear the exercise of riding. At
+the earliest day prudence would allow, I was carried, with all
+practicable care, to Sacramento, a city I had not seen since I passed
+through it a year and a half before. Its appearance was greatly improved
+in every respect. With the increased supply of necessaries and
+conveniences, the fabulous prices of eighteen months before had given
+place to more sober, authentic, and matter-of-fact demands; steamboat
+fare had fallen from twenty-five dollars to one, and the crowding and
+shouting of runners compared with the most active scenes of the kind to
+be witnessed in New York or Albany. We arrived at San Francisco during
+the night; as the day dawned, and the mist that covered the town was
+lifted, the spectacle that met the view was like enchantment; a compact
+and well-built city had risen, its beautiful harbor lined with extensive
+wharves, spacious warehouses, and elegant dwellings, fronting upon broad
+streets, and all appliances of business and pleasure offering themselves
+in profusion.
+
+I walked to the nearest hotel, as I was too feeble to go a hundred
+yards. The friend who accompanied me, and took upon himself all care of
+the voyage in respect to both of us, found that the steamers were
+crowded to the utmost, and engaged passage in a bark for San Juan del
+Sud, or Panama. We examined the printed bill of fare, and thought it
+would be very satisfactory, if its promises were fulfilled. I noticed,
+however, that the potatoes on board were of bad quality, and suggested
+the propriety of raising a committee of passengers to investigate the
+stores; but the motion was overruled as unnecessary.
+
+We put to sea with about a hundred and thirty passengers, many of whom
+suffered severely from sea-sickness. These improved in a few days, and
+began to feel like eating; but, to their consternation, instead of
+wholesome provisions and fresh water, nothing was to be had but spoiled
+meat, and water that was unfit to drink, having been put up in old
+beer-casks and become tainted,--and a short allowance of that. We were
+stinted to three pints a day each for drinking and culinary purposes.
+The only wholesome and eatable articles of food were pork, bread and
+dried apples. Tea and coffee were too wretched to be used. Those
+wiseacres who had so summarily declined any examination of the
+provisions before starting now came to me with very long faces,
+confessing their error when it was too late to be remedied. For
+forty-eight days they languished on this miserable fare. There were many
+quarrels and contentions on board, growing out of these difficulties,
+and some cases of sickness. We buried two men at sea and one the day
+after our arrival in port; and the whole company, in fact, were little
+better than skeletons when they reached San Juan. As to myself, my
+appetite craved but little food, and the sea air agreed so well with me
+that I had almost recovered on arrival there.
+
+We mounted mules on the following day, and crossed to Lake Nicaragua,
+which we reached just too late for the steamer. Some of the company went
+up the lake and procured small sail to take them across, but I decided
+to remain till the arrival of another regular steamer from San
+Francisco. This detained us two weeks, when we proceeded to Georgetown,
+on the Atlantic shore, and took passage on board the steamer Daniel
+Webster, for New York, _via_ Havana. As we passed out of the harbor a
+salute was fired for the United States steamer Saranac, then visiting
+that port to investigate the affair of the British brig Express firing
+into one of our steamers a short time before, on account of a refusal to
+pay certain port charges. When fairly outside the bar, the tables were
+set, and the hungry passengers had begun fortifying their stomachs with
+eager emulation, when I perceived a commotion among the officers and men
+betokening something wrong. Presently the head pump was working lively,
+and the men appeared, running with buckets of water. To the questions
+rained upon them they made no reply, but hastened along in silence. The
+boat had taken fire, but it was promptly extinguished before many of the
+passengers suspected it.
+
+On arrival at Havana we anchored, after dark, under the walls of the
+fort, and our fires were allowed to go out. During the night a breeze
+sprung up, producing a swell in the harbor, which rendered our position
+a dangerous one, as there was not room for the boat to swing around
+clear of the rocks. The passengers all felt extremely anxious for their
+safety; but the fires were renewed, sufficient steam was soon generated
+to work the ponderous engine, the steamer swung slowly and safely
+around, and we were safe. The Spanish guard-boats ordered us back to our
+first anchorage, but the captain replied that he was master of the
+vessel and should put her in a place of safety.
+
+The next morning we took in coal and started for New York. I was seized,
+on the following day, for the first time in my life, with chills and
+fever, but partially recovered, under care of the ship's physician,
+before arriving in port. We made New York without accident, and having
+spent two days in the city, the steamer State of Maine bore me to my
+home, January 13th, 1852,--after an absence of three years, lacking a
+month,--with a heart rising gratefully to God for his many
+interpositions in my behalf, to deliver me from the perils of the sea
+and the perils of the land.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It can scarcely be necessary, for the benefit of any reader who has
+followed me through the course of this narrative, to add any remarks on
+the hazards of visiting Patagonia, or the consequences likely to ensue
+in the event of shipwreck on that desolate coast. The land is dreary,
+and it were a sufficient trial of fortitude to be cast away upon it,--to
+run the imminent risk of perishing by cold, and hunger and thirst. But
+the extremest peril arising from the poverty of the country is
+exhilarating, compared with the tender mercies of the people. Rather
+than trust to their protection, better hide from the light of day and
+gnaw the bark of stunted trees for food, drinking, as I did, from the
+briny sea. The dread which has deterred voyagers from entering the
+country, or even touching the shore, unless armed to the teeth, offering
+articles of traffic with one hand and holding a loaded musket in the
+other, is no more than reasonable. I do not know that the country has
+ever been explored by civilized man. The officers and men of the
+Adventure and Beagle, two ships sent out by the British Admiralty to
+survey the Straits of Magellan in the years 1826, 1830, 1832 and 1834,
+examined and penetrated the country to a greater extent than any other
+voyagers.
+
+If the other tribes inhabiting the country resemble that with which I
+was domesticated, it must be a hazardous enterprise for missionaries to
+attempt the propagation of the gospel among them. Even apart from this,
+the difficulty of gaining a subsistence there must prove an almost
+insuperable obstacle. The barrenness of the soil, and the want of water,
+render agriculture a desperate resource, and there is no spontaneous
+product of the earth to sustain life. To live like the savages would be
+simply impossible to men who have been habituated to the comforts of
+civilized life; I could not have survived many months of such hardship.
+Provisions would have to be imported; this difficulty seems sufficient
+to discourage, if not to prevent, efforts in that direction. When, to
+this, we add the cruelty, the duplicity, the treachery and
+blood-thirstiness of the people, I am unable to conjecture through what
+direct agency they can be reached by the influences of Christianity.
+Whether access to them could be gained through their Spanish American
+neighbors, or by enticing some of them, when young, into a more
+civilized society, and so opening an avenue of peaceable and beneficial
+intercourse, it is not easy to conclude, without actual experiment.
+
+Since returning to this country, these views have been confirmed, by the
+narrative recently published of the sad fate of the English missionaries
+sent to Patagonia. Captain Gardiner, and three or four Cornish
+fishermen, who volunteered for this labor of love, were landed by a
+passing vessel somewhere, on the inhospitable coast. So inveterate was
+the hostility of the natives, they durst not trust themselves among
+them; they were driven, in their covered barges, from place to place;
+like their Master, having not, on the land, where to lay their heads.
+Arrangements had been made, before leaving England, to have provisions
+follow them; thirty-six barrels of provisions, destined for them, were
+found some time after, by a government vessel, at the Falkland Islands.
+The commander took them on board, and sailed for the place of their
+destination; upon their first landing, traces of the unfortunate men
+were found; and, on thorough search, directions were discovered to look
+for them at another place. They were followed from one stopping-place to
+another, till the grave of one of them was found, who had died of
+starvation. The survivors were traced to a spot where their boats lay on
+the shore, unoccupied; at a little distance off lay their bodies,
+unburied, their bones bleaching on the sand. The humane discoverers
+buried their remains. On lifting a stone from the mouth of a cave, there
+was disclosed a narrative of their sufferings, and of successive deaths,
+written by Captain Gardiner; at the date of the last entry he had not
+tasted food for four days. In all probability, he shared the fate of his
+brethren,--starvation,--and with him closed their melancholy history. A
+sad tale! Yet there were days and weeks when I would have gladly
+exchanged my lot for wanderings like theirs, upon the desert shore. But
+from those horrors I was mercifully delivered; they, in the prosecution
+of a sacred and benevolent errand, were cut down by the dispensation of
+Him who seeth not as man seeth.
+
+It may occur to some reader that the deceptions I practised upon the
+natives, as frankly narrated, had a tendency to impair their confidence
+in white men, and thus to increase the difficulty of reaching them by
+Christian influences, and to render the lot of any poor man hereafter
+falling into their hands more desperate than it would otherwise be.
+Perhaps so; yet the danger does not seem so imminent, when we consider
+that they are entire strangers to truth. Probably no Patagonian's
+experience or observation could furnish an example of consistent
+veracity, and they would not be likely to suspect the existence of such
+a virtue in any one. It is apparent, from their behavior in the "last
+scene of all" with me, that from first to last they vehemently
+mistrusted my statements; and their most likely comment on the report of
+the chief must have been, "I told you so." The shock was less than if
+they had reposed a more generous confidence.
+
+The notoriety which was given to my capture by the newspaper press
+called forth many expressions of sympathy from persons who knew nothing
+of me, except that I was a fellow-being in distress. To all such I
+tender my thanks. It is a grateful duty, in parting company with the
+reader, to renew the expression of thankful remembrance with which I
+recall the benefactors who, under God, rescued and befriended me,--Mr.
+Hall, and the noble-hearted captains, who fed and clothed me when hungry
+and naked, and conveyed me gratuitously to my destination. Nor can I
+forget the prompt action of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, the
+efficient exertions of the officers of the Vandalia, or the generosity
+of Commodore Jones. I would also acknowledge, with the liveliest
+gratitude, my obligations to the Hon. Daniel Webster,[A] the Hon. R. C.
+Winthrop, the Hon. George Evans, of Maine, and to the Hon. Joseph
+Grinnell, and the Hon. John H. Clifford, of New Bedford;--all of whom,
+when informed of my captivity, volunteered their aid, and made those
+representations to the Navy department which resulted in the despatch of
+the Vandalia on her humane mission. Nor must I omit to add my thanks to
+Mr. Denison, who kindly bore their memorials to Washington, and laid
+them before the department. If I acquired nothing more by my
+unlooked-for experience, I at least gained a warmer patriotism, and a
+profounder sense of the benignant wisdom of Providence.
+
+     [A] Since this was written he has passed beyond the reach of my
+     thanks; but this fact cannot suppress the utterance of gratitude
+     which I owe to his august memory.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Captive in Patagonia, by 
+Benjamin Franklin Bourne
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diff --git a/38408-0.zip b/38408-0.zip
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+Project Gutenberg's The Captive in Patagonia, by Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Captive in Patagonia
+
+Author: Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+Release Date: December 25, 2011 [EBook #38408]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+  +------------------------------------------------+
+  |                                                |
+  | Transcriber's Note: For LT1 version, 4         |
+  | characters with macrons substituted by         |
+  | unornamented characters.                       |
+  |                                                |
+  +------------------------------------------------+
+
+  [Illustration: HUNTING THE GUANACHO. See p. 70.]
+
+
+  THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA;
+
+    OR,
+
+  LIFE AMONG THE GIANTS.
+
+
+  A PERSONAL NARRATIVE.
+
+    BY
+
+  BENJAMIN FRANKLIN BOURNE.
+
+
+  With Illustrations.
+
+
+    BOSTON:
+  GOULD AND LINCOLN,
+  59 WASHINGTON STREET.
+  1853.
+
+  Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by
+    GOULD & LINCOLN,
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+    District of Massachusetts.
+
+
+  STEREOTYPED BY
+  HOBART & ROBBINS,
+  NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,
+  BOSTON.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Book-making is so much of a trade, that it may be thought quite
+unnecessary to be at the trouble to assign reasons for embarking in it;
+but, as it is not my own vocation, it will be allowed me to say, that
+the deep interest which many, not only of my personal friends, but
+others whom I never saw, have taken in my fortunes, and the desires
+expressed, both verbally and by letter, to know more of my adventures
+than was communicated through the newspapers, overcame the reluctance I
+felt to undertake such a task. The interest of personal adventure,
+however, great as it might be in immediate view of the events while they
+were fresh, would not alone have been presumed upon as a sufficient
+attraction for this volume. But the strangeness of the country
+observed, and the deficiency of exact information concerning its people,
+it was thought, would make welcome any contribution, however slight, to
+the knowledge of this section of our world and race. After the
+contradictory statements of voyagers as to the "giants" of South
+America, there may be some curiosity to hear the testimony of one who
+has "seen the elephant" under circumstances that enabled him to measure
+its proboscis.
+
+My story is a plain one,--a simple record of facts, but not, I would
+hope, tedious. It offers no feats of literary agility for the critic's
+inspection, but a recital of human experiences and observations,
+sufficiently aside from the beaten track of life to have attracted a
+degree of attention which flatters me with the belief that they will
+repay a nearer and more minute survey.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading with
+     Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners by
+     them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of release
+     on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon              25
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad                                              47
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Re�nion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians                   63
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring Fashion      78
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase                          100
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life                                      114
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists                         128
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia         144
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends              166
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain                                         189
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting              204
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered                                                    223
+
+
+
+
+THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading
+     with Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners
+     by them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of
+     release on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon.
+
+
+Among the early subjects of the "gold fever" that became epidemic in the
+autumn and winter of 1848-9, a company of twenty-five men left the port
+of New Bedford in the schooner John Allyne, A. Brownell, master, and B.
+F. Bourne, mate, for California. The vessel had been selected for her
+good sailing qualities, light draught of water, and general fitness for
+river navigation. In the haste and excitement of the time,
+California-bound craft carried out some rather motley companies; but we
+considered ourselves fortunate in the character of the men associated in
+this enterprise, and were organized on such principles of equality as
+seemed to promise entire harmony and good fellowship. Of course we had
+high and golden hopes, and our great object was to reach the new Ophir
+in the easiest and most expeditious manner. On account of the delays and
+dangers incident to the doubling of Cape Horn, it was determined to
+attempt the passage of the Straits of Magellan.
+
+We left port on the 13th of February, and for many days our time passed
+pleasantly, but rather monotonously, with nothing greatly to exhilarate
+or to depress our spirits. It was discovered, at length, that our vessel
+needed some running rigging. The more impatient were for going on, and
+making such headway as we could without it; but a majority of the
+company decided to run for the nearest convenient port, and replenish.
+We accordingly ran for Pernambuco, and anchored in the outer harbor on
+the 25th of March. The beauty and security of this harbor are
+remarkable. It is defended from the sea by a nearly perpendicular reef,
+extending three-fourths of the way across its entrance, with an opening
+of ample width for the passage of vessels to a safe anchorage. Being but
+eight degrees south of the equator, the town lies continually under the
+burning rays of a tropical sun. Its appearance is like that of most
+Spanish and Portuguese cities, abounding in high and massive buildings,
+with more of the castle than of the counting-house or dwelling in their
+outward expression, built upon narrow, irregular streets, that are
+constantly alive with men and beasts of divers colors and forms. Men
+from the country, driving their mustangs, mules and asses, laden with
+produce; wealthy and noble citizens borne by servants in palanquins;
+women bearing water in buckets, tubs and urns, which they balance on
+their heads without the aid of their hands, and walk off under as erect
+as so many midshipmen;--all the sights and sounds have a pleasant
+strangeness, that made our visits on shore highly agreeable. The
+churches, which are quite numerous, have nothing admirable or attractive
+outside, but the richness of their interior decoration testifies to the
+prevailing orthodoxy and fervor of devotion to the Church of Rome. The
+church is, indeed, the grand receptacle of the wealth of the country.
+Every _bueno cat�lico_ of them, rich, or poor, will sooner stint himself
+and his family in their daily comforts, or even necessaries of life,
+than omit his due contribution to mother church.
+
+Our stay at Pernambuco was short, which must excuse a more particular
+description of its notabilities. Having obtained the articles we needed,
+we stood out to sea. Nothing occurred on our passage to the straits
+worthy of particular record. We spoke one or two vessels, and spent some
+time "gaming" with them,--the nautical phrase for visiting. On the 30th
+of April we made Cape Virgin, and stood in for the Straits of Magellan.
+In company with us, and bound for the same golden country, by the same
+course as ourselves, were bark Hebe, of Baltimore, and schooner J. B.
+Gager, of New York. We were becalmed off the mouth of the straits for
+several hours, and Captain Brownell visited the Hebe. He returned just
+before night. A fair wind setting in from the eastward, we all stood in,
+the J. B. Gager, as being best acquainted with the navigation, taking
+the lead. The three vessels anchored about midnight, within twelve miles
+of the first narrows.
+
+The next morning, it being calm, some of our men went on shore in the
+small boat, for a gunning excursion. They returned early in the
+forenoon, with a large number of sea-fowl. Not long after, Captain
+Brownell announced his intention to go ashore, and commenced making
+preparations. He soon changed his mind, however, and asked me to go, in
+his stead, to procure some fresh provisions, if they were to be had.
+Knowing, from the reports of whalers and others, something of the savage
+character of the natives, I felt reluctant to venture; but afterwards,
+to oblige the captain, I complied.
+
+Taking our guns, a bag of bread, and some tobacco, four of us started
+for the shore. As we approached the beach, a crowd of black-looking
+giants came to the water's edge to gaze at us. We did not particularly
+fancy their looks, and lay on our oars for a considerable length of
+time. A recollection of the many ugly stories current about the
+Patagonians, their barbarous and cruel character, did not greatly
+fortify our confidence, or make us especially anxious for a personal
+acquaintance with them. We accordingly lay off in our boat, and, hailing
+them in Spanish, asked them if they had eggs, fowls, and beef. They
+replied, in broken Spanish, that they had plenty at their houses. I told
+them to produce their stores, and they should have plenty of bread in
+exchange. We parleyed with them for some time, till our boat at length
+touched the shore. I stood in the boat's stern, gun in hand, endeavoring
+to keep the natives from stealing, and warned the men not to leave the
+boat. They jumped ashore, promising not to stray from the spot. The
+Indians offered some skins for sale, which I paid for in bread. While my
+attention was diverted from them by this barter, the Indians were
+coaxing my men away. I looked about, and found only one man near me. He
+was despatched in pursuit of the others, and directed to bring them
+without delay. The tide at this point rises and falls forty-two feet. It
+was now ebb tide, the boat was fast grounding, and, it being large and
+heavily loaded, I was unable to get it off. The old chief and several
+other Indians crowded into it, and once in could not be got out.
+Persuasion was useless, and they were too many to be driven. In short, I
+was in their hands, and became immediately conscious of the difficulty
+and peril of my situation;--my men gone, I knew not where, the boat fast
+aground and crowded with the savages, while nearly a thousand of the
+tribe congregated upon the beach. What was before me, at the worst, I
+could only conjecture from report; and nothing but evil was reported of
+the creatures that surrounded me. What could I do? A question easier
+asked than answered.
+
+After a long time, or what seemed such under circumstances that made
+minutes seem ages, one of my men came down, and asked permission to go
+to the Indian village, "a little way back from the shore," as they had
+been promised meat, eggs, and fowls. I ordered him to come immediately
+back to the boat. He persisted in urging his request, but it was so
+dangerously absurd that I absolutely refused. He then said he would
+inform his comrades of my refusal, and return immediately to the boat;
+but, for some cause, they seemed in no hurry to obey orders. Weary of
+waiting for them, and not without apprehension, I asked an Indian for
+the use of his horse, and rode with all speed after the fugitives. In
+the hurry of pursuit I inadvertently passed them, and tried to turn back
+my steed; but his inclinations were decidedly against a retreat. While
+our opposing impulses kept us stationary for a moment, I descried my men
+approaching on horseback, behind the Indians. When they came up I urged
+them to return to the boat. They persisted in going with the savages. I
+remonstrated with them on the impropriety and danger of their course,
+but in vain. Their mouths watered for the meat and eggs they were told
+of. Their cunning guides had completely allayed suspicion, and even laid
+to sleep their common prudence. The Indians kept on their course,--the
+men followed, and I felt at my wits' end. I rode from one to another,
+talking as industriously and as urgently as I could. At last I gave them
+peremptory orders to return. The Indians had plainly lied to us. Their
+village, they said, was only a little way off; and yet we were
+three-fourths of a mile from the boat, and not a house was yet in sight.
+Determined to go back, if I had to go alone, I turned my horse's head.
+
+At this point the mask was thrown off. The Indians seized my bridle, and
+arrested my progress. We all dismounted, with a view to retreat on foot,
+but before I could reach the man nearest to me the Indians had robbed
+him of his gun. With a mutual agreement to stand by each other in case
+of pursuit, we hastened our retrograde march, but had made no great
+distance when we saw the Indians coming after us. They rode in advance
+of us, halted in our front, and manoeuvred to cut off our retreat; but
+by various zigzag movements, or boldly turning their horses' heads, we
+made considerable progress. Our foes, however, knew what they were at;
+it was only a question of time with them. A sudden and decided movement
+indicated a crisis. I drew my pistols (a pair of single-barrelled
+ones), but before I had time to cock one I was jumped upon from behind
+by some half-dozen of these monsters. One of them grasping a pistol by
+the barrel, I pointed it to his head and pulled the trigger. It missed
+fire, and I thank God that it did! Its discharge would have certainly
+killed him, and would as certainly have been revenged upon my life,
+probably upon the lives of my comrades. This is easily felt and said
+now; but at the moment, when excited by the struggle for liberty, and,
+as I feared, for life, with such dreaded enemies and at such formidable
+odds, it was quite another matter.
+
+The old chief now came up, took me firmly by the wrist, and said, "Usted
+no bono! usted habla varmano por me casa, mucho, mala hombre currarhae!
+mucho montaro hombre!"--by which specimen of choice Spanish he desired
+to inform me that we promised to go to their houses, and now would not
+go; that we were bad men and liars. His peculiarly thick and guttural
+pronunciation did not make the dialect more intelligible; but I was in a
+situation where criticism would have been rather out of place, and my
+ears were quickened by the revelations made to sight. I therefore
+promptly replied, that if he would restrain his men from violence, we
+would go where he pleased. They, meanwhile, grasped their knives, and
+looked as if they wanted to use them on our persons; but the chief told
+them, No, _not then_; he would get rum and tobacco for us first, and
+kill us afterwards. Whilst I was thus engaged, my nearest companion
+discovered his gun in the hands of an Indian who stood not far from
+where I was struggling. Rushing suddenly upon him, he succeeded in
+recovering his piece,--more by tact than force, for his antagonist, like
+all the Patagonians, was very large and muscular. Then nimbly jumping
+aside, he told me to look out for myself. That was rather more than I
+felt able to do just at the moment. One Indian seized me by my arms and
+legs, some of them grasped my body, and others were busy investigating
+the contents of my pockets, and appropriating the same to their own use.
+And if he supposed himself able to show as much independence as he
+recommended me to, he was evidently mistaken. He had not elevated his
+gun to his face when the Indians were upon him, and wrenched it from his
+grasp. The old chief, all this time, held me tightly by the wrist,
+menacing his followers with his half-drawn cutlass, while I endeavored
+to bid for life and liberty. I told him he should have plenty of rum,
+tobacco, bread, flour, brass and beads, if he would carry us to the
+boat. At length he beat off my plunderers, and seemed on the point of
+yielding to my terms. He mounted his horse, and ordered me to get up
+behind him. I obeyed with alacrity, and fancied myself in a fair way to
+get out of trouble.
+
+But, whatever may have been the chief's original intention, I had not
+gone far before his policy was diverted. One of the most audacious of
+the troop rode up, and insisted that I should not be allowed to return.
+I was the captain of the ship, he affirmed, and if I were restored they
+would get none of the promised rum and tobacco. The old savage seemed
+struck by this new suggestion, and halted. We then dismounted, and he
+led the horse up the hill, ordering me to follow. I was next directed to
+sit on the ground and wait further action. There I sat, looking
+alternately, with longing eyes, at the boat, and at our vessel riding at
+anchor in plain view. My three companions were soon brought to the
+spot, and dismounted. And now began a more earnest negotiation. We
+offered large ransom, and after some higgling they agreed that three of
+our number might be released, but one must remain as a hostage; and I
+was pointed out as the one. I endeavored to have one of the others stay,
+and one actually agreed to; but his heart soon failed him, and I could
+see that he was using all his powers of persuasion to provide for
+himself. I assured him that I would use every effort in his behalf, if
+he would consent to remain for the present; but he evidently thought of
+the maxim, "A bird in the hand," &c., and was bent on making sure of his
+own safety first of all. Poor fellow! I cannot blame him for loving his
+own life, though, at the moment, it did seem rather hard that, after
+getting into the scrape by their own headstrong folly, against my
+entreaties and peremptory commands, they should extricate themselves
+from it at my expense, and leave me to bear the hardest of it! Very
+likely I might have done the same, if our cases had been reversed. And,
+even if one of them had offered to remain, it is very doubtful whether
+the substitution would have been permitted. The Indians too evidently
+regarded me as the chief prize, and were bent on retaining me as such.
+They insisted that I must stay while the other three should go for
+ransom, and I had nothing to do but to submit.
+
+Three Indians each took a man with him on a horse, and started for the
+boat. I watched them as they went, with feelings that I will not attempt
+to describe. It seemed but too probable we should never meet again. A
+sense of desolation came over me, at the thought of being left alone in
+the power of these savages, of whose treachery and cunning I had
+already had such ample experience, and of whose cruelty I had heard so
+much. I felt that I was beyond the aid, if not cut off from the
+sympathy, of my associates. The falseness of the Indians to all their
+engagements, as I afterwards learned, was signally displayed towards my
+more fortunate comrades. They evidently had no intention of releasing
+any of us. Before reaching the boat, they halted, and refused to go any
+further, or allow our men to leave them. The prisoners, however,
+struggled desperately, and at length got clear of their captors. One
+rushed up to his neck in water, the others sprang into the boat, pushed
+off, and rescued him as he was struggling with the waves. They reached
+the schooner, told their tale, and represented my desperate situation.
+All hands commenced breaking up cargo, to get at the rum and tobacco for
+my ransom. Two boats were forthwith manned, provided with the required
+articles, and with plenty of arms and ammunition, and started for the
+shore. They got to the land a little before dark, and pulled into a
+cove, or slight indentation of the beach.
+
+On catching sight of them, I desired the Indians to conduct me to the
+shore, and receive the ransom. But this they declined. They ordered me
+to the summit of an eminence near by, there to beckon the men to come
+ashore. An old skin was given me to wave as a signal. Perceiving that I
+was to be used as a decoy to lure the others into their treacherous
+snare, and secure them all as prisoners, I protested against this new
+breach of faith, and assured them that our men would not leave their
+boat, but that, if they wanted any rum and tobacco, they must take me to
+the shore. To this, after a long palaver, and with visible reluctance,
+they assented. The old chief ordered me to mount his horse,--this time
+reversing our relative positions; he made me sit on the rude apology for
+a saddle and guide the horse, while he took his seat behind, clasping
+both arms tightly around my body, and spurring his old nag forward. Thus
+mounted, and wondering what would be the next trick of the savages, I
+was conveyed to the shore, near the spot where the boats lay off on
+their oars. Driving as near them as possible, I hailed the men,--told
+them by no means to fire on the Indians, but to give them all they had
+promised. They asked what they should do with the articles. I turned to
+the chief, told him what the boats had brought, and once more asked if
+it was a satisfactory ransom. He said, Yes; if those articles were laid
+down, I should be released. But he was plainly resolved to have his pay
+in advance; he distrusted us too much to let me go first; and I need not
+say that my confidence in him was far from implicit. But, "Nothing
+venture, nothing have,"--I directed the men to put the things ashore,
+which they did. The Indians greedily picked them up, and I claimed my
+release. The old rascal said, "he had not got _plenty_ of rum yet, he
+must have a barrel." I insisted and struggled, but to no purpose. He
+kept a tight hold of my body, and when I begged that at least he would
+not squeeze me quite so painfully, he only redoubled his clasp. He
+obviously suspected, and I more than suspected, that it would not
+require a very great relaxation of his embrace to prompt a pretty
+decided movement on my part, for the effectual resisting of which the
+vicinity of the water was not altogether favorable. He now began
+spurring his old horse from the scene of action; I drew upon the bridle
+with my whole available force and weight; but the disparity between
+human strength and horse power, stimulated to its utmost by the spur,
+was too great. I begged the men in the boats to come again the next
+morning, and on no account to leave me, which they solemnly promised.
+
+I was now hurried back into the country five or six miles, and at last
+reached an Indian village, and was set down by the old chief at his
+wigwam. He gave me in charge to one of his squaws, who ordered me into
+the hut and bade me sit down on the ground. While sitting there, and
+casting an inquisitive glance around the rude habitation, my attention
+was suddenly attracted to what appeared to be several pairs of eyes in a
+dark corner, shining with a strange brilliancy. I speculated silently on
+the sight, much doubting whether they belonged to human beings or to
+wild beasts; but, on carefully reconnoitring, I discovered that they
+belonged to three huge women. Further investigations disclosed a number
+of dark-skinned boys and girls, of divers ages and sizes, playing and
+capering about the premises, in a state of perfect nudity. It took a
+considerable time to make out these, or any other objects, distinctly,
+owing to the darkness of the hut. Presently the chief, the patriarch of
+the tribe, entered his habitation, and began a conversation, in his
+peculiar dialect, with his wives. He spoke in a low, guttural tone, in
+words the purport of which I could not gather. I was in no mood for
+conversation, but would have been much gratified by learning his version
+of the day's "stroke of business."
+
+And now a few dry sticks and a bunch of dry grass were brought, mine
+host drew from a convenient repository a brass tinder-box, with a stone
+and a piece of steel, and soon produced a blaze that brilliantly
+illuminated the scene. By its light I was enabled to survey the first
+specimen of Patagonian architecture that had blessed my vision. It was
+constructed in a _pointed_ style, though not very aspiring, consisting
+of a row of stakes about eight feet high, each terminating at top in a
+crotch, or fork, with a pole laid across them; two parallel rows of
+stakes on either side, about two feet high, with similar terminations,
+and a similar horizontal fixture; and a covering composed of skins of
+the guanaco, sewed together with the sinews of the ostrich, the only
+thread used by the people. This covering is drawn over the frame-work,
+and fastened by stakes driven through it into the ground. For purposes
+of ventilation some interstices are left, but these again are half
+closed by skins attached to the outside; so that the air from without,
+and the smoke from within (in default of a chimney), must insinuate
+themselves through these apertures in great moderation. In truth, my
+first survey was rather hurried; the first cheerful gleam had scarcely
+set my eyes on the look-out when I was fain to shut them against an
+intolerable smoke. In no long time I felt as bacon, if conscious, might
+be supposed to feel in the process of curing. No lapse of time was
+sufficient to reconcile my eyes, nostrils and lungs, to the nuisance;
+often have I been more than half strangled by it, and compelled to lie
+with my face to the ground, as the only endurable position. Talk that is
+"worse than a smoky house" must be something out of date, or
+Shakspeare's imagination never comprehended anything so detestable as a
+Patagonian hut. The chief and his numerous household, however, seemed
+to enjoy immense satisfaction; and jabbered and grunted, and played
+their antics, and exchanged grimaces, as complacently as if they
+breathed a highly exhilarating atmosphere.
+
+My meditations and observations were shortly interrupted by preparations
+for a meal. The chief's better half--or rather fifth part, for he had
+four wives--superintended the culinary operations, which were as rude
+and simple as the hut where they were carried on. And now my fancy began
+to conjure up visions of the beef, fowls and eggs, the promise of which
+had lured my men from the boat,--had proved stronger than the
+suggestions of prudence, and had made me a prisoner. But these dainties,
+if they existed anywhere within the chief's jurisdiction, were just at
+present reserved. The old hag threw down from the top of one of the
+stakes that supported the tent the quarter of some animal; whether dog,
+guanaco, or whatever, was past imagining. She slashed right and left,
+with might and main, an old copper knife, till it was divided into
+several pieces. Then taking a number of crotched sticks, about two feet
+long, and sharpened at all their points, she inserted the forked ends
+into pieces of the meat, and drove the opposite points into the ground
+near the fire; which, though sufficient to smoke and comfortably _warm_
+the mess, was too feeble to roast it. At all events, time was too
+precious, or their unsophisticated appetites were too craving, to wait
+for such an operation; and the raw morsels were quickly snatched from
+the smoke, torn into bits by her dirty hands, and thrown upon the ground
+before us. The Indians seized them with avidity, and tossed a bit to me;
+but what could I do with it? I should have had no appetite for the
+dinner of an alderman at such a time and place; but as for tasting meat
+that came in such a questionable shape, there was no bringing my teeth
+or resolution to it. While eying it with ill-suppressed disgust, I
+observed the savages, like a horde of half-starved dogs, devouring their
+portions with the greatest relish; seizing the fragments with their fine
+white teeth, at the same time clenching them with their hands, and
+giving every sign of enjoyment _except_ what one is accustomed to see in
+human beings. The old chief remarked the slight I was putting upon his
+hospitality, and broke in upon me with a fierce _Por que usted, no munge
+usted, usted carna? Esta carna mucho bueno hombre por munge, se hombre,
+munge!_ "Why don't you eat your meat? This meat very good to eat,--very
+good to eat. Eat, man! eat!" I may here observe that my knowledge of
+Spanish, like the chief's, was colloquial; picked up here and there in
+voyages to South American ports, which may account for my orthography
+being so plainly determined by the ear rather than by any rules of
+Castilian grammar. Seeing him so much excited, and not knowing what
+deeds might follow his words if I refused, I thought it expedient to
+_try_ to "eat what was set before me, asking no questions;" thinking,
+moreover, that if there were any evil spirit in it that the fire had
+failed to expel, it could not possibly have resisted the smoke. So,
+being sorely divided between aversion to the "strange flesh" and fear of
+showing it, I forced a morsel into my mouth. Its taste was by no means
+as offensive as its appearance had been unpromising, and I managed to
+save appearances with less disgust than I had feared. This was my first
+meal with the savages, and a sample of many others; though better viands
+afterwards varied their monotony, now and then.
+
+The eating being over, a large horn, that had once adorned the head of a
+Spanish bullock, was dipped into a leathern bucket and passed from one
+to another. Between the bucket and the horn, the fluid had gained a
+flavor not found by Adam in his first brewing, and, indeed, not far from
+nauseating. However, it seemed expedient to "conquer my prejudices" so
+far as to drink with the other guests, and the ceremonies of dinner were
+over; for which, "with all other mercies," I felt thankful, and turned
+to my corner near the expiring fire, to chew the cud of sweet and bitter
+fancies, in which the latter ingredient decidedly predominated. The
+strange and sudden desolateness of my condition, the doubtful chances of
+escape, the possible sufferings before me, the uncertainty that rested
+on the designs of my savage captors, all rushed upon my mind, and
+suggested to my heated imagination a host of terrors.
+
+These painful thoughts were interrupted by an order to prepare for the
+night's repose. An old skin, about two and a half feet square, was
+thrown upon the cold ground in the back part of our rookery, and
+assigned for my couch; I took possession accordingly, and the whole
+family bestowed themselves in a row near me. The stifling atmosphere was
+soon vocal with their snoring. My brain was too busy for sleep. Feverish
+fancies kept me wakeful. I revolved a variety of plans for escape. Could
+I steal out of the hut unperceived? Could I find my way to the shore? I
+doubted the first, and more than doubted the second; and even if so far
+successful, there was no boat to take me from the accursed land. And how
+could I conceal myself from the Indians till a boat should arrive? They
+would miss me; and, long before any possible communication with my
+vessel, would be hunting me down with horses and dogs. Not a wood or
+thicket had met my eye on the dreary waste I traversed the day before. I
+tried to devise some other plan, but none offered itself. It was this or
+nothing,--and this was next to nothing. Grown desperate, at last, I
+determined to make an effort.
+
+After lying some time, listening to the heavy breathing of the sleepers,
+and satisfying myself that none of the company were awake, I raised
+myself as noiselessly as possible, and stole towards the front of the
+wigwam. Casting a furtive glance backward, I could see that the old
+chief was restless; either he had feigned sleep, or some evil spirit had
+waked him just at the wrong time. To go immediately back would too
+plainly betray my purpose; so I walked very calmly and deliberately into
+the open air, and stood as if star-gazing; the old fellow, as I plainly
+perceived, all the time watching me from the lodge. In a short time I
+walked quietly back to my dark retreat, and found him where I had left
+him, lying very coseyly, as if nothing had happened to disturb his
+slumbers. Once more stretching myself on my uneasy couch, I lay two
+hours or more, still revolving the same unsolved problem in my mind. At
+length, all appearing to be sound asleep, I decided to venture a second
+attempt; and, in the event of failure, to make the best of it for the
+present. Stealthily as possible I crawled from among them, slid out of
+doors, and crouched upon the grass. Could I be mistaken? No--those
+infernal eyes were fastened on me as before! There was no eluding their
+vigilance. At this moment a howling as of a hundred wolves was heard
+approaching, and about that number of dogs came rushing, pell-mell,
+towards me. I scampered for the wigwam as fast as my feet could carry
+me, and in my flight stumbled over a stick nearly eight feet long. I
+seized the weapon thus kindly lent me, and, swinging it furiously about
+me, gave all intruders that came within my reach a sufficient touch of
+its quality. Thus defending myself from the brutes, I backed towards the
+lodge, glad to shelter myself among its detested inmates. The cunning
+old Parosilver, as before, had bestowed himself on the ground among his
+squaws and dirty children, and was, apparently, fast asleep.
+
+This was more than I could compass. Vexation at my fruitless attempts to
+escape,--dread, inspired by the relentless vigilance and quiet assurance
+of the chief,--tormenting apprehensions as to the issue of any effort on
+the morrow to effect my ransom,--all kept my brain upon the rack, and
+effectually drove sleep from my eyes, till near daylight, when I fell
+into a disturbed slumber. In my dreams I was at once transported from
+the savage hut, on board my vessel. Methought she was driving before the
+wind, all sails set, at full speed, upon a dangerous reef. All on board
+seemed insensible of the danger; I alone perceived it, but a nightmare
+spell was on me, and my lips refused to speak, my limbs to move. Rooted
+to my place on the deck, I stood in dumb agony, while our vessel rushed
+upon her fate. There came a sudden shock,--our bark had struck, and her
+total destruction was inevitable. Some of the men were dashed violently
+upon the deck, others precipitated into the boiling surf, where they
+clung desperately to spars, and fragments of the wreck. While the
+confusion was wildest, and the dream of effort for escape was subsiding
+into the calmness of despair, I suddenly awoke, and for some time was
+unable to comprehend where I was, or how I came there. If I were indeed
+shipwrecked, I was also, like Jonah, vomited upon dry land. I drew my
+hand across my eyes to assure myself that vision was unobstructed, cast
+my eyes right and left;--the lodge, the ashes of the last night's fire,
+the chief and his motley family, the door through which the "lubber
+fiend" had followed me with his restless eyes, and into which the fierce
+dogs had driven me, recalled my distracted senses, and restored
+consciousness of a reality which, at the moment, I would almost have
+exchanged for the wildest terrors of my dream.
+
+With the light calmer thoughts succeeded, and I once more addressed
+myself to the task of effecting my escape. The first thing was to get
+the chief with me to the shore, in readiness to meet a boat, and to
+renew negotiations for my liberty. Observing that he was awake, I began
+to promise him an abundant supply of the articles most tempting to his
+fancy, on condition of my release. He carelessly replied that he would
+go with me to the beach by and by. I tried to urge his departure, being
+anxious to go without the rabble at his heels the day before, but for
+whose violence he would now hardly be master of me; but there was no
+hurrying his movements. He took down his little cutlass, drew it from
+its brazen scabbard, and commenced sharpening it with a rusty file,
+trying its edge with his fingers as the work went on, and casting side
+glances at me the while. Whether this ceremony was the preface to some
+act of violence he meditated, or a scene for effect, to fill me with a
+wholesome dread of his power, I could not guess; but, determined to show
+no foolish fears, I thought it best to put a bold face upon the matter,
+and make an equally striking demonstration of courage and presence of
+mind, qualities which savages generally appreciate. I therefore
+approached him, tried the edge with my own fingers, praised the beauty
+of the instrument, and interested myself in the process of sharpening
+it. Following up my assault on his vanity, I extolled him as one of the
+best of men, and assured him that when we got to the shore I would amply
+reward him for his kindness to me; taking occasion, however, to throw in
+a hint on the vast importance of starting early. This I enforced by the
+suggestion that, when he got his good things, the fewer there were
+present, the fewer claimants there would be to divide the spoils.
+
+After much coaxing, he started after his old horse; I mounted behind
+him, and we moved slowly off. When we arrived at the shore it was
+blowing a perfect gale. A boat could not live in the billows. All three
+vessels had dragged their anchors, and lay at some distance from their
+anchorage of yesterday. Bark Hebe appeared to be dragging towards the
+Orange Bank, a dangerous shoal. I afterwards learned that the Hebe,
+after getting into water as shoal as would barely float her, slipped her
+cables, put up a little sail, and finally succeeded in weathering the
+shoal and getting safely out to sea. The J. B. Gager was dragging in the
+same direction. My own vessel was holding on better than the others,
+and I hoped she would ride out the gale in safety.
+
+I made my captors understand the reason why no boat had come, as
+promised; with which they appeared to be satisfied, and we returned as
+we came. By means of their broken Spanish, which they had picked up from
+sailors, and in visits to the Chilian or other Spanish American
+settlements, and by signs, amounting at times pretty nearly to a
+pantomime, I found myself able to understand inquiries or commands, and
+to make known my wishes.
+
+Early on the following morning we again visited the shore, and I looked
+eagerly toward the anchorage, where all my hopes of deliverance centred.
+Not a vessel was in sight! Whether they had foundered, or were driven
+upon the shoal and wrecked, or had dragged out to sea in a disabled
+condition,--or whether my shipmates, the gale having subsided, had
+deliberately proceeded on their voyage, and left me a prey to cruel
+savages and all the ills of this inhospitable shore,--I was unable to
+conjecture. I only knew that they were gone, and that I was left alone
+to the tender mercies of the Patagonians. No present means of escape
+appeared. The future, wisely hidden from my view, suggested none to my
+imagination. I told my captors the worst; that the high winds had
+probably sunk the ships, and all that were in them. At this intelligence
+they seemed delighted, and laughed immoderately, as if such a calamity
+were a consolation for the loss of their expected ransom. Their cruel
+glee could add nothing to the weight of my desolation. My past life was
+sealed up as if by an entrance on a new state of being. I looked round
+on a bleak and cheerless region, and forward on a life as barren of
+human joy, made up of every species of suffering,--hunger, cold,
+fatigue, insult, torture,--liable to be cut short at any moment by the
+caprice of my tormentors, and so wretched that death itself, with all
+the enormities of cannibalism, lost its terrors by comparison. Life, for
+any good or great purposes to be achieved, was over. And then my
+thoughts turned to far different scenes,--to happy faces, and pleasant
+voices, and familiar sights;--to hearts that beat with no dread of this
+day's calamities, felt no consciousness kindred to my despair, but
+would, in due time, be rudely awakened from their security. GOD help me,
+for I am helpless now!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad.
+
+
+Returning to the encampment, it remained to devise some new way of
+escape. Some four or five days' ride to the westward would bring us to
+Port Famine, on the straits, a penal settlement of Chili, and the only
+settlement in the vicinity by which I could hope to re�nter the
+civilized world. A journey thither was suggested to the Indians, as the
+most likely way of turning my captivity to profitable account; but they
+refused with a promptness and decisiveness which was rather
+unaccountable, till I afterwards learned that they had lately visited
+that part of the country on a horse-stealing expedition, in which their
+success had been too good to make them desirous of showing their faces
+there at present. Money, guns, pistols, cutlasses, brass, beads, and
+everything else that could be thought of to tempt their cupidity, were
+offered. I was not disposed to be niggard of promises; but in vain. To
+Port Famine they were determined _not_ to go; but old Parosilver assured
+me, by way of compensation, that he would take me to "Holland," which
+was a "much better place." Whereabout on terra firma this South American
+Holland was situated,--if, indeed, there was any such place, and the
+chief was not indulging in a little extra lying,--was past all
+conjecture. I inquired the distance. He could not tell exactly. Was it
+inhabited by Americans or English? There were "twenty or thirty white
+men there, and plenty of rum and tobacco." They promised to start with
+me towards Holland the next day. In what direction? They pointed towards
+the Atlantic. Well, I cared little where it was, or who lived there,
+provided only they were not Patagonians, and I could once get free of
+these rascals. But on the following morning the migration was postponed,
+in consequence of unexpected tidings.
+
+One of the tribe, who had been down to the shore, reported that my
+vessel had come back. This welcome, though rather improbable
+information, started me, with about a dozen of them, on the track of his
+story. On gaining a view of the straits, a vessel was plainly in sight,
+but it was a strange sail. Yet, if I could succeed in boarding her, my
+purposes would be answered. She came into the bight of the bay, and
+anchored about fifteen miles below us. I endeavored to make my smutty
+companions comprehend that as the tide was then running out they would
+not make the shore till it turned, which would not be till night. They
+waited till near night, when hunger and thirst wore out their patience,
+and they ordered me off with them. Against this untimely mandate I
+warmly remonstrated, and after some dispute it was arranged that the
+chief should stay with me for the night. The rest returned to their
+encampment, and we made a good fire, which was kept up till nearly
+morning. Old Parosilver lay down under the lee of a clump of bushes,
+while I was busy in active exercise to keep warm, and replenishing the
+fire with dry bushes. At dusk I had observed the vessel hoisting sail,
+and beating up the bay. On this I began brandishing firebrands to
+attract notice, and walked to and fro on the beach for hours. The craft
+gradually approached, till her white canvas became distinguishable
+through the surrounding gloom. Fresh fuel was heaped on the fire, a
+bright blaze ascended; I took my station directly in front of it,
+holding out my coat, and frequently turning round, that my form and
+features might be more distinctly revealed. And now a thrill of joy
+electrified me, as I saw a light set on deck, which appeared to be
+stationary. There could be no doubt that the vessel had come to anchor
+directly opposite to us. Though hungry and weary with long watching, I
+hurried about, and gathered sticks and leaves in abundance to kindle a
+still brighter beacon-fire, in whose light and warmth anxiety began to
+expand into hope. At dawn of day, as the horizon lighted up, I could
+distinguish the vessel lying about a mile off, quiet as a sea-fowl on
+the calm surface. Presently there was a movement on deck, the anchor was
+hove up, the fore and main sails were hoisted, and the object on which
+my hopes and ardent prayers had centred through the cold night receded
+from view through the straits, bound, doubtless, for California. I
+watched the fast-vanishing sail with tearful eyes; and the old chief,
+who had been on the look-out, started for his horse, that had been
+hampered and turned out to crop among the scanty vegetation.
+
+Before I had time to recover from the first revulsion of disappointment
+and grief, _another_ vessel, a topsail schooner, came in by Point
+Dungeness. "Cheer up," I said to myself; "the sun will be shining, the
+darkness have given place to the clear day, before this vessel can be up
+and opposite to us." Confident of being noticed, I began active
+preparations for the approaching visitor. No rod of sufficient length
+was to be found; but, after some search, a number of short crooked
+sticks were collected. To lash them together, I tore up my drawers,
+which I could ill afford, and appropriated my shoe-strings. My flannel
+shirt was hoisted as a flag; and having replenished the fire, I paced
+the beach with colors flying, but, as the vessel approached, with
+increasing faintness of heart; for the wind gradually shifted, so that
+she could only take advantage of it by heading towards Terra del Fuego.
+At last she came opposite, but so near the further shore that the
+chances of success diminished every moment. Dark objects moved on the
+deck,--fancy painted them as men;--would they not discover me through
+their glasses, and be drawn by my signal of distress? No; onward she
+floated away,--the narrows were soon passed, and my vision of
+deliverance was dissipated.
+
+With this final death-blow to all present hopes of relief, I turned away
+in despair. Exhausted by hunger, cold and fatigue, and worn out by hours
+of anxiety, I fell helpless upon the ground, and wept like a child. For
+the first time I felt _utterly_ forsaken, and repined at my lot as one
+of unmitigated evil. Effort seemed useless; I had neither resolution nor
+strength to make further exertion. There was nothing for me but listless
+endurance. I even reproached myself that I had not cast myself into the
+sea, and staked my life on the chance of swimming to the schooner.
+There was no possibility of doing this; but failure would have been
+_only_ death, and what was life worth to me here? This tempest of
+self-reproach soon spent itself. My temperament is too buoyant to be
+long depressed, and calm and stout thoughts took the place of despairing
+weakness. It was unmanly, something whispered within me, thus to give
+way before difficulties. It would be time enough to do this when all
+possible effort had failed. The weak and imbecile might take refuge in
+despair, but the strength of youth should serve me better. I called to
+mind examples of courage in greater emergencies, when obstacles that
+seemed insurmountable had been conquered by fortitude and perseverance.
+"Heaven helps those who help themselves." The more I reflected on the
+matter, the stronger grew the impulses of faith and courage, by whose
+force it seemed possible to win a triumph against the greatest odds.
+Before rising from the earth, my resolution was fully taken to throw
+discouragement to the winds; by the help of God to meet whatever
+impended with the courage of a man; to bear my calamities with patient
+endurance; and to give up hope and energy only when nothing was left to
+be attempted, or the power to do and suffer was exhausted.
+
+I rose a new man,--my strength invigorated, my soul fortified by a
+strong purpose. Though the cold night air had thoroughly chilled my
+frame, it now felt a warmth kindled by the fires within, and an
+unaccustomed flush suffused my countenance. The resolve fixed in this
+memorable crisis of my captivity, though severely tested, was never
+wholly overborne. Henceforth, the events and scenes through which I
+passed were viewed with a calmness that had been before unattainable,
+and which is now scarcely credible, on recollection. So true is it that
+our strength is unknown to ourselves till it is thoroughly tested.
+
+The hope of immediate release, however, was at an end; my savage
+captors, it seemed, must be looked upon as for an indefinite period my
+masters and companions; and I had nothing at present to do but to divert
+myself by a study of their manners and habits; to consult my safety by a
+close study of their character, and of the ways and means by which so to
+adapt my deportment to it as to win their confidence, to disarm
+hostility, and to seize opportunities.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Patagonia, as it offered itself to my observation, more than answered
+the descriptions of geographers,--bleak, barren, desolate, beyond
+description or conception,--only to be appreciated by being seen. Viewed
+from the Straits of Magellan, it rises in gentle undulations or
+terraces. Far as the eye can reach, in a westerly direction, it assumes
+a more broken and hilly appearance, and long ranges of mountains,
+extending from north to south, divide the eastern from the western
+shore. The soil is of a light, sandy character, and bears nothing worthy
+the name of a tree. Low bushes, or underwood, are tolerably abundant,
+and in the valleys a coarse, wiry grass grows luxuriantly. Streams of
+water are rare. The natives draw their supplies principally from springs
+or pools in the valleys, the water of which is generally brackish and
+disagreeable.
+
+The variety of animal is nearly as limited as that of vegetable
+productions. The guanaco, a quadruped allied to the lama, and with some
+resemblance to the camelopard, is found in considerable numbers. It is
+larger than the red deer, fleet on the foot, usually found in large
+herds, frequenting not only the plains, but found along the course of
+the Andes. Its flesh is a principal article of food; its skin is dried
+with the hair on, in such a manner that, when wet, it retains its
+pliability and softness. This process of preserving skins seems to be
+peculiar to the Indian tribes, and is not unlike that by which
+buffalo-robes, bear-skins, buckskins, and other articles of luxury, and
+even necessity, among us, are prepared by the North American Indians.
+Guanaco-skins are cut into pieces of all sizes, and sewed into a
+thousand fanciful patterns, every workman originating a style to suit
+himself. The hoofs are sometimes turned to account by the natives as
+soles for shoes, when they indulge in such a luxury, which is not often.
+
+The enemy of the guanaco is the cougar, or "American lion," smaller than
+its African namesake, and more resembling the tiger in his character and
+habits, having a smooth, sleek coat, of a brownish yellow
+color,--altogether a very beautiful but ferocious creature. His chase is
+a favorite, though rare and dangerous, sport of the natives. Patagonia
+likewise boasts of the skunk, whose flesh is used for food. There are
+also foxes, and innumerable mice. Of birds, the only noticeable
+varieties are the condor, in the Andes, and the cassowary, a species of
+ostrich, smaller than that of Africa, on the plains; its plumage is not
+abundant, generally of a gray or dun color. Its flesh is tender and
+sweet, and with the fat much prized by the Indians. Like the African
+ostrich, it is exceedingly swift, only to be captured on horseback, and
+often fleet enough to outrun the fastest racer.
+
+The climate is severe. The Rio Negro forms the northern boundary, and
+nearly the whole country is south of the parallel of 40� south latitude.
+At the time of my capture, which was in the month of May, the weather
+corresponded to that of November in the New England States. Its
+chilliness, however, was greatly increased by the bleak winds of that
+exposed locality. Along the Straits of Magellan the weather is also
+exceedingly changeable. Sudden and severe squalls, often amounting
+almost to a hurricane, vex the navigation of the straits, and sweep over
+the coast with fearful fury.
+
+The habits of the Patagonians, or at least of the tribe among whom I was
+cast, are migratory, wandering over the country in quest of game, or as
+their caprice may prompt them. They subsist altogether on the flesh of
+animals and birds. The guanaco furnishes most of their food, and all
+their clothing. A mantle of skins, sewed with the sinews of the ostrich,
+fitting closely about the neck and extending below the knee, is their
+only article of dress, except in the coldest weather, when a kind of
+shoe, made of the hind hoof and a portion of the skin above it, serves
+to protect their inferior extremities.
+
+In person they are large; on first sight, they appear absolutely
+gigantic. They are taller than any other race I have seen, though it is
+impossible to give any accurate description. The only standard of
+measurement I had was my own height, which is about five feet ten
+inches. I could stand very easily under the arms of many of them, and
+all the men were at least a head taller than myself. Their average
+height, I should think, is nearly six and a half feet, and there were
+specimens that could have been little less than seven feet high. They
+have broad shoulders, full and well-developed chests, frames muscular
+and finely proportioned, the whole figure and air making an impression
+like that which the first view of the sons of Anak is recorded to have
+made on the children of Israel. They exhibit enormous strength, whenever
+they are sufficiently aroused to shake off their constitutional laziness
+and exert it. They have large heads, high cheek-bones, like the North
+American Indians, whom they also resemble in their complexion, though it
+is a shade or two darker. Their foreheads are broad, but low, the hair
+covering them nearly to the eyes; eyes full, generally black, or of a
+dark brown, and brilliant, though expressive of but little intelligence.
+Thick, coarse, and stiff hair protects the head, its abundance making
+any artificial covering superfluous. It is worn long, generally divided
+at the neck, so as to hang in two folds over the shoulders and back, but
+is sometimes bound above the temples, by a fillet, over which it flows
+in ample luxuriance. Like more civilized people, the Patagonians take
+great pride in the proper disposition and effective display of their
+hair. Their teeth are really beautiful, sound and white,--about the only
+attractive and enviable feature of their persons. Feet and hands are
+large, but not disproportionate to their total bulk. They have deep,
+heavy voices, and speak in guttural tones,--the worst guttural I ever
+heard,--with a muttering, indistinct articulation, much as if their
+mouths were filled with hot pudding. Their countenances are generally
+stupid, but, on closer inspection, there is a gleam of low cunning that
+flashes through this dull mask, and is increasingly discernible on
+acquaintance with them; when excited, or engaged in any earnest
+business that calls their faculties into full exercise, their features
+light up with unexpected intelligence and animation. In fact, as one
+becomes familiar with them, he will not fail to detect an habitual
+expression of "secretiveness" and duplicity, which he will wonder he did
+not observe sooner. They are almost as imitative as monkeys, and are all
+great liars; falsehood is universal and inveterate with men, women and
+children. The youngest seem to inherit the taint, and vie with the
+oldest in displaying it. The detection of a falsehood gives them no
+shame or uneasiness. To these traits should be added a thorough-paced
+treachery, and, what might seem rather inconsistent with their other
+qualities, a large share of vanity, and an immoderate love of praise.
+They are excessively filthy in their personal habits. Hydrophobia, so to
+speak, is a prevailing distemper; they never wash themselves. Hands and
+faces are covered with dirt, so thick, and of such ancient deposit, that
+their natural color only appears in spots, laid bare by the mechanical
+loosening and displacement of some of the strata, which curiously
+variegates the surface. It is hardly necessary to remark that such a
+condition of the skin is highly favorable to the increase and
+multiplication of "the moving creature that hath life," wherewith their
+persons are abundantly peopled.
+
+The women are proportionally smaller than the men, and rather inclined
+to embonpoint. The old chief had four wives, though he had probably
+never heard of Mahomet or his domestic laws. The rest of the tribe had
+only one wife apiece. The women erect the wigwams, provide fuel and
+cook,--if the operation should be dignified with that name,--in short,
+all the drudgery falls to their lot. They are treated as slaves, but
+made, in most respects, as comfortable in their servitude as the
+condition of their rude masters will admit. When, however, their lords
+are excited by gambling, or enraged for any or no cause, the fury of
+passion is visited upon their defenceless heads, which they bear
+uncomplainingly, with a meek submissiveness worthy of better treatment.
+They are passionately fond of trinkets and clumsy ornaments, such as
+bits of brass and copper, beads, and the like, which they wear suspended
+from their necks. A few of them had their ears pierced, and wore brass
+or copper ear-rings; and many of them decked out their children with
+similar rude finery, which is valued more than anything else, except
+rum, tobacco and bread. The men paint or bedaub their faces and breasts
+with a kind of red earth. Charcoal is also used as a cosmetic. A broad
+line of red alternating with a stripe of black, in various fantastic
+figures, is a favorite style of decoration. The women make themselves,
+if possible, still more hideous, by the application of a pigment made of
+clay, blood and grease. Some of them would be very comely, if only
+cleanly, and content to leave nature less strenuously adorned.
+
+The people are as deficient in the morals as in the refinements and
+courtesies of domestic life; their licentiousness is equal to their
+cruelty,--the filth of their persons only too faithfully represents the
+degree in which "their mind and conscience is defiled." I saw no person,
+of either sex, that appeared to have attained advanced age, though it
+was difficult to judge of this. The oldest Indian I remember to have
+seen did not seem to be above sixty.
+
+Their only wealth, aside from their huts, consists of horses, the stock
+of which is frequently replenished by stealing from the Spanish and
+Chilian settlements. These animals are, for the most part, of small size
+and inferior quality, half wild, coated with coarse, shaggy hair--lean
+and woe-begone enough, just "fit for the crows." A few valuable
+specimens of a superior breed are found among them, doubtless "conveyed"
+there. The rude saddles in use among them are mostly of Spanish origin,
+obtained at the settlements. They consist each of two boards, an inch
+thick, six inches wide, and two feet long, rounded at the corners so as
+to fit the horse's back, and united by two strips of board passing
+across the back-bone, the several pieces lashed together with leather
+strings. A piece of guanaco-skin often serves in default of a saddle.
+The steed is guided by a single rein, tied round the lower jaw; some of
+them sport a bit of iron or wood, secured by a string round the jaw,
+attaching the rein to this. Spurs, like the rest of their riding
+apparatus, are more efficient than elegant. They are indeed rude and
+cruel things,--straight sticks, six inches long, with a long, sharp iron
+inserted into the end, secured by a string or strap around the hollow of
+the foot, and tied at the top, a second strap nearer the heel, and a
+third passing round the heel. They are all agile and excellent horsemen.
+
+For weapons, the chief, and a few of the principal men, had cutlasses or
+swords. They had no fire-arms, nor could I learn that they understood
+their use; bows and arrows, spears and war-clubs, appeared to be equally
+unknown. All the men carried knives; and the _bolas_, a missile weapon
+used in the capture of all kinds of game. This consists of two round
+stones, or lead balls, if they can be procured weighing each about a
+pound, connected by a strap or thong of leather, ten or twelve feet
+long. When engaged in the chase, his horse at his highest speed, the
+rider holds one ball in his hand, and whirls the other rapidly above his
+head; when it has acquired sufficient momentum it is hurled with
+unerring aim at the object of pursuit, and either strikes the victim
+dead, or coils inextricably about him and roots him to the spot, a
+helpless mark for the hunter's knife.
+
+This tribe numbered about one thousand; the chief is the acknowledged
+head of the people. Whether his power was hereditary or elective, I
+could not learn; but incline to the belief that it was hereditary, as it
+appeared to be, in his theory at least, absolute. In all questions of
+importance his decision is final; yet his subjects take considerable
+liberty with his opinions, sometimes oppose his counsels, and even
+question his authority. On the appearance of such democratic symptoms,
+he sometimes finds it necessary to assert his sovereignty with spirit,
+and brandishes his cutlass smartly before their eyes.
+
+The habits of the people are not only filthy, but indolent to the last
+degree; exertion of body or mind is their greatest dread. They never go
+on a hunting expedition till there is nothing more to eat, nor even then
+till they feel the spur of extreme hunger. It sometimes happens that at
+such a crisis a storm comes on, which shuts them in; and it is no
+unfrequent occurrence for them, under such circumstances, to pass two or
+three days without tasting food. They learn nothing by experience; the
+same childish indolence and recklessness, followed by the same painful
+consequences, are continually recurring.
+
+Though their great size at first sight was fitted to inspire terror, it
+required no very long observation to discover that they were deficient
+in natural courage. This, in fact, might be inferred at once, from their
+habitual deceit, treachery and artifice, which are the defences of the
+weak and timorous, rather than the weapons of strong and daring natures.
+They always select the night to inflict injuries; never meet an enemy in
+open combat whom they can stab from behind, or despatch in the dark;
+and, when obliged to attack by day, always do so in large numbers. This
+defect of courage is increased by their superstition; they have great
+faith in charms, signs and omens, a weakness which I anticipated might
+exert great influence on my destiny in important conjunctures. Could I
+by any means so master their secret as to possess myself of its mystic
+power, it might prove an effective aid to my plans of self-defence, or
+of escape. Should it, on the other hand, be turned by any accidental
+causes against me, its impulse might prove irresistible by power or
+contrivance. There was no appearance of idolatrous worship among them,
+nor could I observe any allusion to a Supreme Being, or to any superior
+powers having personal attributes; and, except a single ceremony, of
+which more hereafter, the nature of which was and is still inexplicable,
+there was nothing that suggested to my mind the idea of religious
+worship. Whether they are cannibals or not, has been a matter of some
+dispute. So far as I know, they have been, heretofore, only casually
+observed on the beach by voyagers, or vaguely reported of by the people
+of adjoining countries and neighboring settlements; neither of which is
+a sufficiently reliable source of information. My own personal
+advantages on this head were greater; but I am obliged, after all, to
+leave the question about where I found it, so far as _certain_
+conclusions are concerned. Yet some circumstances occurred, or were
+related to me, that incline my mind strongly to the belief that such
+horrible practices are not unjustly ascribed to them. Of the soundness
+of my conclusions those who follow the course of the narrative will have
+the opportunity of judging for themselves; if such had been my
+persuasion at the beginning, it may be readily imagined what effect this
+last hazard would have had upon my feelings, in contemplating the
+possibilities of the future. Happily a convenient scepticism on this
+point preserved me from this dark apprehension.
+
+I came among these people not, certainly, with the best preparation in
+my previous habits and associations to endure either the climate of
+the country or the hardships of captivity. I went on shore in my usual
+ship's dress; thick frock coat, trousers, and shoes, and glazed cap.
+My under-garments were woollen; though an important item, as before
+related, was made way with in fruitlessly signalling vessels in the
+straits. But to live without any change of dress, to sleep without any
+additional covering, protected from the cold ground only by a fragment
+of guanaco-hide, and the other discomforts and exposures of life among
+savages, made, altogether, a harsh contrast to the comforts of our
+good schooner. To these, however, I gradually became inured, till I
+was able to meet cold and wet and storm with as stoical indifference
+as my dark companions, who had known no other lot from infancy.
+
+Of the character of the natives I had little previous knowledge; and
+that little was not adapted to stimulate curiosity, or prompt the least
+anxiety for more intimate acquaintance. It was derived mainly from
+whalers, in whom it seemed to have produced much the same degree of
+contentment,--a feeling that ignorance is bliss. Indeed, the greatest
+caution has always been employed by voyagers in regard to landing on
+these shores; many experienced seamen cannot be persuaded to land at
+all; trade with the natives is always carried on in boats off shore,
+frequently with loaded fire-arms constantly levelled, in readiness for
+action in case of emergency. But here I was, put forcibly to the study
+of their character in the school of dame Experience, and can testify to
+the truth of the saying that she charges roundly for tuition. Let the
+reader give me credit for the cheapness with which I put him in
+possession of what knowledge was purchased at so exorbitant a price.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Re�nion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians.
+
+
+The reader left me just rising from a half-stupor into which a double
+disappointment had thrown me, feverish with the excitement of new
+purposes and resolutions. The first aim was for some fresh water, to
+allay a burning thirst. After a long and unsuccessful search, I went
+deliberately to the beach and took a deep draught of the briny waves.
+Expecting that the chief would shortly return for me with a train of his
+followers, it occurred to me that I might secrete myself, though there
+was nothing certain to be gained by it, if I were successful, of which
+the probability was not great. With this object in view, I walked along
+close on the water's edge, that my footprints might be obliterated by
+the waves. After proceeding in this way for some distance, I left the
+shore, and started towards the interior, in quest of a place where I
+might dig a hole in the earth and cover myself with grass and bushes. I
+had gone but a little way inland, when, on ascending a slight eminence,
+whom should I meet, face to face, but the old chief and another of my
+tormentors! So the scheme came to nothing; but after others more
+feasible had so dolefully miscarried, it was not in human nature to lay
+this disappointment very deeply to heart. I made as though I was glad to
+see the old fellow, though, could I then have had my will of the
+savages, they would have been safely anchored in the middle of the
+straits. I told him (Heaven forgive me!) I was looking for them. The
+chief responded to my greeting only by ordering me to mount his horse. I
+requested leave to stay a little longer, and was refused. I again
+requested to be taken to Port Famine;--no, I should be taken to
+"Holland."
+
+I mounted behind him, and we travelled all day in the direction of Cape
+Virgin. For two days and nights I had eaten nothing, and drunk nothing
+but sea-water, and, in fact, had taken very little food for three days.
+We arrived about dark at an eminence commanding a view of their new
+squatting ground. Here we halted to take a short survey of the
+encampment. To them, doubtless, the prospect was beautiful; to me it was
+heart-sickening, but I strove to keep up cheerful appearances. Down in a
+valley or deep marshy hollow, covered with tall grass or rushes, an
+almost innumerable drove of horses were seen grazing; and beyond, at a
+short distance, the surface was thickly dotted with huts, erected, or in
+process of erection, by female architects. Children, in swarms like
+summer flies, and with no more artificial covering than those insects,
+were capering and shouting in high glee. At length we descended to the
+rude village; after tacking about, first to the right and then to the
+left, like a ship against a head wind, we came gallantly into town, and
+drew up at the chief's lodge. I was glad to dismount, sore with
+bestriding the skeleton of a horse.
+
+Here I again took the liberty of proposing a trip to Port Famine,
+offering to go alone, if they would not go with me. The chief told me,
+with emphasis, to say no more about it. He would take me to "Holland,"
+and there get rum and tobacco. "Only get me there," I said to myself,
+"and much good may your rum and tobacco do your old carcass!"
+
+On the third day of our encampment here the tribe was divided, and I was
+sent off with one of the chief's lieutenants. A more blood-thirsty
+rascal could not be found in the tribe. This step was probably taken by
+the chief to get rid of my importunities to visit Port Famine, the
+frequent renewal of which had evidently worried him. My new guardian
+regaled my ears, from time to time, with stories of his murderous
+exploits, most likely in order to instil into me a wholesome dread of
+his power, and a submissive temper under his authority. The details of
+his bloody yarns are too shocking to repeat. One story, on which he
+seemed to dwell with peculiar satisfaction, as it was confirmed by more
+reliable authority afterwards, I will here relate, with such other
+particulars as I gained by subsequent information.
+
+About two years before, the British brig Avon was in the Santa Cruz
+river. Captain Eaton, her commander, went on shore with his men, and
+bought some horses of the Indians, which he paid for in rum, tobacco and
+trinkets. After receiving their pay, they played the same trick as with
+me,--refused to deliver the horses. The captain was about getting under
+weigh, when the Indians, perceiving his intention to leave them, went
+down to the shore opposite the vessel, and beckoned him to come on
+shore, signifying that they would give up the horses, as agreed. The
+boat was sent ashore, and six or eight Indians returned in it to the
+brig. They surrounded the captain on the quarter-deck, and told him the
+horses were coming. He stepped to the rail with his glass, to observe
+motions on shore; while thus engaged, the savages came up behind, drew
+out their long knives, and stabbed him to the heart. He sunk lifeless on
+the rail, and fell upon the deck. Seizing him by the hair, and raising
+him partly on their knees, they cut his throat, and stabbed him again
+and again, to make the work of death sure. They then rushed upon the
+mate and stabbed him, but not mortally; he threw himself exhausted down
+the hatchway, and had just strength enough to secrete himself among the
+cargo. The boy was dealt with in the same manner as the captain, and one
+or two sailors, being wounded, succeeded, like the mate, in getting
+below deck and secreting themselves. The remainder of the crew were
+fortunately off in a boat at this time, and escaped the massacre. The
+savages ate and drank on board, and then plundered the brig of such
+articles as suited their fancy. Mr. Douglass, of "Holland," being on
+board the brig, was not murdered, but carried on shore and detained. A
+gentleman named Simms afterwards endeavored to effect the release of Mr.
+Douglass. He gave them all that they demanded as ransom, and was then
+himself detained to keep his friend company. A third embassy was
+undertaken by Mr. John Hall, of whom the reader will learn more
+hereafter. He paid a large ransom for his two friends, and was then
+served as they had been. He succeeded in effecting his escape the next
+day; but Douglass and Simms were carried off, murdered, and, it is
+supposed,--I believe with good reason,--that their bodies were eaten.
+The Avon, after being plundered, fell into the hands of the remainder of
+the crew, and sailed for Montevideo.
+
+I travelled with this ruffian about ten days. He was a hard master,
+though I cannot charge him with personal ill-treatment that amounted to
+cruelty. Our life was monotonous enough. We slept a good share of the
+time when we rested, drank pure water when we could get it, and ate what
+fell in our way; though the reader may be assured that we saw some
+hungry days. At the expiration of ten days, the tribe was re�nited at a
+place agreed upon. Here we continued several days, the natives occupied
+exclusively with gambling, which was alike their daily labor and
+recreation. When the demands of hunger became too imperative to be
+longer postponed, they would go out and hunt, after which they resumed
+their games.
+
+Gambling is a vice to which they are greatly addicted, and they pursue
+it with a perseverance and ardor worthy of amateurs in more civilized
+communities. The implements used are bits of guanaco-skin, about the
+size of common playing-cards, on which are rudely depicted dogs and a
+variety of other beasts, with divers mystic marks and scrawls, done with
+a stick in a pigment composed of clay, blood and grease. Unlike their
+compeers in more enlightened circles, they put down stakes on only one
+side, for which the opposite players contend. In this way they rid
+themselves of their saddles, bridles, knives, and whatever other
+portable articles they may have to hazard. Nay, I have seen them
+inflamed to such a passion as to take the mantles from their women's
+shoulders, telling them to protect themselves from the cold as they
+could.
+
+But where was "Holland," all this time? They told me at first that we
+should be only four days reaching it, and already more than ten had
+passed. On inquiry, they said that the journey would be completed in six
+days; on we went, for _sixteen_ days more, with the same dull routine,
+the Indians assigning seven or eight days as the minimum time. The place
+seemed to be all the while receding. I had long since become aware that
+there was no truth in them; but persisted in questioning them, to call
+forth fresh lies, which they uttered with marvellous fluency, as if it
+were vastly easier than speaking the truth.
+
+After the re�nion of the tribe, I implored the old chief to take me back
+to his lodge, and to his especial care; to which he consented, much to
+my satisfaction. With him I felt a kind of security unknown elsewhere;
+under God, I relied alone on his protection. He alone of the tribe had
+the power to defend me, and I spared no pains to secure his good-will.
+To this end, I made him large promises of such things as I thought would
+arouse his cupidity, or stimulate his appetites, as well as an abundance
+of ornaments for his wives and children, if he would only take me to
+some place inhabited by white people. This policy was extended to his
+household; disagreeable as the task was, I forced myself to caress his
+dirty children, and to tell them what pretty things I intended to give
+them. By these, and such-like demonstrations, I flattered myself it
+might be possible to keep on peaceable terms with old Parosilver, and
+enlist his authority for me, if circumstances should compel me to appeal
+to it.
+
+The re�nited tribe remained in camp three or four days, dividing their
+time between gambling and hunting. When I accompanied the hunters, as I
+sometimes did, I was sure to get something to eat towards night, as they
+invariably kindled a fire and cooked part of the game on the spot where
+it was killed. Their method of preparing all meats was essentially the
+same as has been described; tossing large pieces into the fire, or
+suspending them over it, till they were somewhat smoked and dried, and
+then devouring them, without salt, or any other condiment but the sauce
+of hunger. Cooking the ostrich, however, forms an exception: the
+feathers are plucked out, the bones dissected and removed; hot stones
+are placed within the body, the skin is tightly sewed together, and the
+whole is partially roasted on the embers. The lacings are then cut, and
+the meat is served up; it has an excellent flavor, far surpassing that
+of the domestic turkey. The bird is covered with a layer of fat, half an
+inch thick, which is melted, and collects in the body, forming a
+condiment which is relished as the greatest luxury of Patagonian living.
+If any fragments of the repast remain, they are slung to the backs of
+the saddles, and so carried home, dangling at the horses' sides, till
+they are so begrimed with dust as to defy all conjecture as to their
+quality or origin. These choice morsels are proffered to the home
+department, are received with smiles of gratitude, and devoured with a
+gust sharpened by long abstinence. It was noticeable that the plumage of
+the ostrich, though beautiful, was not at all valued by the Indians;
+large quantities of the feathers are blown all over the country,
+without attracting the least regard, while men and women disfigure
+themselves with paint, and load their persons with the cheapest of all
+trumpery, brass and copper and beads, picked up from traders, or stolen.
+
+The hunting of the guanaco is not only their chief reliance for food,
+but a spirited amusement, conducted after a fashion peculiar alike to
+hunters and hunted. Patagonia, as before mentioned, has no trees, but is
+covered here and there, in patches, with a kind of under-brush of scrub
+growth, and the plains extend back for hundreds of miles from the
+Atlantic shore, like a vast rolling prairie. This affords a clear and
+excellent hunting-ground, with nothing to conceal the game, or hinder
+the pursuer, except now and then a clump of low bushes, or the tall
+grass of the marshes. Two to four hundred Indians on horseback,
+bare-headed, and with their skin mantles about them, and each having the
+bolas and his long knife tucked beneath his belt, the whole followed by
+an innumerable pack of dogs of every kind, down to curs of low degree,
+make up a hunting party; as far as the eye can reach, their gigantic
+forms, diminished by the distance, may be seen projected on the horizon,
+their long hair streaming in the wind. Presently a thickness is
+perceived in the air, and a cloud of dust arises,--a sure indication
+that a herd of guanacos has been beaten up, and is now approaching. All
+eyes are fixed intently on the cloud; it soon appears as if several
+acres of earth were alive, and in rapid motion. There is a herd of from
+five hundred to a thousand of these animals, infuriated, rushing forward
+at their utmost speed whatever direction they may chance to take, they
+follow in a straight line; and, as soon as their course is ascertained,
+the Indians may be seen running their horses at break-neck pace to plant
+themselves directly in the course of the living tide. As the game
+approach, the hunter puts spurs to his horse and rushes across their
+track. When within twenty or thirty yards, he jerks the bolas from his
+girdle, and, whirling it violently above his head, lets fly. The weapon
+usually strikes the head or neck of the animal, and winds itself about
+his fore-legs, bringing him to the ground. The hunter dismounts, cuts
+the victim's throat, remounts, and is again in pursuit. The whizzing
+missile, unerring in its aim, brings down another and another, till the
+party are satisfied with their chase and their prey. The dogs fall upon
+the poor animals, when helplessly entangled by the bolas, and often
+cruelly mangle them before the hunter has time to despatch them. Seldom
+does any one miss the game he marks. It is the height of manly ambition
+among them, the last result of their training, to excel in the chase.
+
+The sport being over, then comes the dressing of the meat. The body is
+split open, the entrails removed, the heart and large veins opened, to
+permit the blood to flow into the cavity. The Indians scoop up with
+their hands and eagerly drink the blood. When their thirst is satisfied,
+the remainder is poured into certain of the intestines selected for the
+purpose, to become (to their accommodating tastes) a luxury as highly
+prized as any surnamed of Bologna. The ribs are disjointed from the
+back-bone, and, with the head, discarded as worthless. The body is
+quartered, cutting through the skin; the quarters, tied together in
+pairs, are thrown across the horses' backs, and conveyed to the camp.
+Arrived at their wigwams, the chivalrous hunters never unlade their
+beasts, but lean upon the horses' necks till their wives come out and
+relieve them of the spoil. They then dismount, unsaddle their horses,
+and turn them loose.
+
+Whilst remaining at our present encampment, strong indications of
+dissatisfaction were apparent, which manifestly had reference to me.
+There was a large party that had always entertained hostile feelings
+towards me; and I now found it necessary to exert myself to the utmost
+to quell their discontent, by making large promises of presents to men,
+women and children, "due and payable" on arrival at some white
+settlement; also, by humoring their caprices, and flattering their
+vanity with the most honeyed words at my command. The reader, I hope,
+will not harshly judge of the deceptions which are here and elsewhere
+avowed in this narrative. I was placed in circumstances which, it seemed
+to me, made this a legitimate and necessary mode of self-defence. It was
+plain that my only way of escape would be by some negotiation for
+ransom, and the Indians had conceived expectations of very large profit
+to be made out of me. They were told, when we landed, that I was the
+captain of the ship,--an unfortunate error, but one that I could not
+repair. I was naturally looked upon as so much the more valuable
+hostage. My only resource was to act in character: to magnify my own
+importance, to increase their expectations, whenever I found myself
+sinking in the scale of their favor,--to make them feel, in short, that
+they had an immense interest in preserving my life, and getting me to
+"Holland," or some other white settlement, with the most convenient
+speed. And if some of the fictions appear gross, it is enough to say
+that they were such as seemed, at the time, to be adapted to the
+grossness of their apprehensions and desires, and to the most sure
+accomplishment of the purpose in view.
+
+Yet, so false-hearted and treacherous were they, that one could never be
+for a moment certain what impression was made. Liars in grain
+themselves, it was only natural for them to distrust every one else.
+Whenever I spoke, and especially when making promises, the old chief
+would look me steadily in the eye, as though piercing my inmost
+thoughts. But, in process of time, I so schooled myself to the exercise,
+that I could return his look and tell the toughest stories without
+blinking. Some of them were to the full as credible as those of
+Munchausen. It was constantly necessary to put memory and imagination to
+the rack, to call forth something new and astonishing wherewith to
+divert their fancy, and pre�ccupy their minds from meditating mischief
+against me, of which I had continual reason to be afraid. Secure against
+any detection of the plagiarism, I drew largely from the adventures of
+Sinbad the Sailor, the marvels of the Arabian Nights, and the cunning
+devices of Gil Blas, the materials of which served, when duly mixed with
+my own veritable experience, to excite their curiosity, if not to awaken
+awe and superstitious reverence. They would sit around me for hours, as
+eager as so many children, their eyes and ears all intent, while in
+broken Spanish, mixed with a few Indian phrases that had been grafted
+into my speech through the ear, aided by abundant gesticulations, that
+shadowed forth and illustrated whatever was obscure in expression, I
+spun yarns of no common length, strength and elasticity. Sometimes, in
+response to a general call from the company, the old chief at the end
+of some marvellous tale, would command me to tell it again. This was no
+easy task, considering the freaks which my imagination usually played,
+without restraint, in the progress of the narrative. In no long time,
+however, I learned to imitate the prudence of boys who turn down the
+leaves of their books, or of Indians who break down the shrubs and twigs
+along a new path, by taking special note of my deviations,--a sort of
+mental dog's-ear, or way-mark, interposed at the point of departure. It
+was not difficult to retrace the way at their bidding, and give them the
+whole journey, to its minutest turnings.
+
+The excitement and dissatisfaction which I had remarked and dreaded
+appeared to have died away, when one night I had startling evidence that
+it was still active. At the usual hour of rest, as I was expecting every
+moment to be ordered, like a dog, to my cold corner of the lodge, a
+gigantic, ill-favored fellow made his appearance, and exchanged, in an
+under tone, a few words with the chief. Without comprehending a word
+that was passing, I could see, by their significant glances, that the
+colloquy concerned me, and that it boded me no good. The giant soon
+disappeared. The chief sat a moment in silence, rose, and ordered me to
+follow him. To the question where he was taking me, no other answer was
+vouchsafed than "Come along!" We had proceeded but a short distance when
+I observed a group of Indians sitting in a circle on the earth. The
+sight almost froze my blood. The most dismal apprehensions seized upon
+me. There needed no wizard to tell the import of the scene. The _fatal
+ring_, so much to be dreaded by those who are cast upon the tender
+mercies of savages, was set for me. The suddenness of it aggravated the
+blow. It almost paralyzed thought, and arrested my powers of motion.
+The catastrophe of the tragedy, I thought, is at hand, unless arrested
+by the interposition of a higher power. In my way to the dreaded spot I
+sent up a silent supplication that He whose eye marked all my footsteps,
+and whose power was all-sufficient for my protection against utmost
+peril, would keep me in that hour of my "extremity," and make it,
+according to the proverb, His "opportunity."
+
+Arrived at the ring, I found the Indians squatting on the ice and snow
+awaiting us, with their cutlasses and large knives tucked under their
+blankets,--weapons they never carry except when they expect to use them.
+I was ordered within, and seated myself as near as possible to the
+chief. They presently began talking in rotation, as they sat, in their
+own tongue. Their words were mainly unintelligible; but the deadly
+malice that flashed from the eyes, kindled in the features, and animated
+the gesticulations, of some of them, left no room to doubt the
+significance of their speech. A part of them were clamorous against my
+life, as they had constantly been. Others appeared to be irresolute, and
+said little; but, so far as could be discovered, no voice was raised in
+my favor. The chief spoke last,--I hung upon his lips, and anxiously
+scrutinized his face and action. I gathered that he was in favor of
+holding on a while longer, and using me as a decoy, to lure others
+within their power; reminding them of my promises,--the quantities of
+rum and tobacco they were to get from me, the trinkets destined for
+women and children. He was for getting the booty before cutting the
+matter short with me. His remarks evidently had great weight with the
+council, and exerted a soothing effect on all of them. At this point I
+thought it a meet season to impress upon their minds that I was of some
+consequence in the world, and asked leave to speak for myself, which was
+granted. Thereupon I launched forth in an oration, the chief acting as
+interpreter, and retailing it to the circle sentence by sentence:
+
+"Buenos Senores! Me mucho Grande Americano capitan, mismo commodant
+mucho mass, mucha barca, mucha galeta, muchos soldados, muchos
+marinarios. Me tene mucho mucho big guns, bastante poquito mismo
+bastante, cutlass, pistols mucho bastante. Vuestros hombres buenos per
+me, mi marinarios, mi soldados, buenos per vos. Othro corso usted malo
+rumpe me," &c. &c. &c. In such a jumble of Spanish, English and Indian,
+duly set off with grimace and gesture, I gave them to understand that
+they were dealing with no inferior personage, but with one who was at
+home as good as the president; one having at command abundance of
+steamships and sailing vessels of all sorts, with soldiers and mariners,
+big guns and little guns, pistols and cutlasses. That if they were good
+to me they would receive good from me and mine; but that, if they did me
+any harm, men would come from North America in numbers as incalculable
+as the hairs of their heads, and kill every mother's son of them.
+Furthermore, if they would take me to some white settlement, whether
+American, English, French or Spanish, I would order the white people to
+give them rum, tobacco, flour, rice, sugar and tea. _Of course_ the
+white men could do no less than obey, and they would thus be enabled to
+indulge themselves in luxuries almost without limit.
+
+It was evident, at a glance, that my speech was seasonable, and took
+effect in the right quarter. Their eyes stood out with wonder, and the
+sternness of their countenances was relaxed. They acquiesced in the
+proposal to postpone final action for the present, and see what could be
+made out of me before doing their worst. In a few days, they said, they
+would take me to "Holland;" but, no matter what time was limited, that
+"undiscovered country" seemed continually further off,--"a name" without
+any "local habitation." Their conduct in this was determined, as I was
+afterwards assured, by the fact that they were entirely undecided what
+to do with me. They longed for the good things I had told them of, and
+their greedy appetites could only be satisfied by taking me to a white
+settlement. On the other hand, they were painfully suspicious that I
+meant to give them the slip, and dreaded the result of bringing me into
+the vicinity of any settlement; while, at the same time, my
+grandiloquent assumptions and lofty threats made them shrink from the
+thought of doing me serious harm. The big guns and little guns greatly
+disturbed their imaginations. In short, I seemed to them an ugly
+customer--bad to keep, and bad to get rid of. They temporized,
+therefore, promised and hesitated, and postponed, and promised again.
+There was no use in trying to hurry their movements. So I gave them line
+upon line, seeking every opportunity to deepen the troublesome
+impression that they assumed a mighty responsibility when they made me a
+prisoner, and that their welfare depended greatly on the issue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring--Fashion.
+
+
+The next move of the tribe brought us within about a mile of Corey
+Inlet. The day after we halted, in full view of the south Atlantic, on
+looking out upon the water, two masts were plainly descried, evidently
+those of some vessel running down to this inlet. On going up an
+elevation commanding a better view, it proved to be a topsail schooner.
+She had undoubtedly mistaken this false cape for Cape Virgin, at the
+entrance of the Straits of Magellan. I pointed out the vessel to the
+Indians, and requested them to take me to the shore, that I might, if
+possible, communicate with her and be ransomed. After some delay, they
+complied; but, as we approached the beach, she was seen suddenly to haul
+off the shore and stand down the coast, having probably found out her
+mistake. We made all possible haste to gain the beach before she could
+have time to pass out of sight. I mounted a tall cliff, where I could
+distinctly see the men on deck, and, standing on the horse's back,
+waved my jacket, and made every possible demonstration to attract their
+notice. All in vain. The little vessel sailed steadily on, as if in
+mockery of my hopes. I watched her receding figure with an aching heart,
+till she vanished from sight. Thoughts of home and its familiar circle,
+of lost enjoyments, and of the suffering that must be a guest there, had
+long tantalized my sleeping and embittered my waking dreams. These were
+quickened and concentrated in a burning focus, by the light of such a
+vision from the world of my past existence, only to inflict the keener
+torture upon my sensibilities. My situation became more intolerable by
+every fresh disappointment. It was almost enough to drive me mad. Must
+I, then, give up all hope of rescue?
+
+A few minutes passed, and the tempest of feeling passed with them.
+Reflection convinced me that the indulgence of such feelings was not
+only useless, but actually pernicious, as tending to unfit me for
+rational and successful contrivance. My condition, truly, was dreadful;
+so much the more necessary was it to exercise the most calm and patient
+and self-possessed prudence, in order to devise and execute any purpose
+of escape. Like the surgeon who looks with steady nerve on the quivering
+frame subjected to his knife, I must nerve myself to look the gloomy
+problem of my lot, without shrinking, fully in the face, and keep my
+emotions, in all circumstances, strictly under the control of the
+calculating judgment; a maxim, like many others, much easier uttered now
+than to be thought of then, and far easier asserted than exemplified.
+Fully bent on effecting my deliverance in some way, to the discovery of
+which all possible ingenuity was to be directed, my resolutions of
+self-control were heroic enough. But to fulfil them,--to repress and
+disregard all those sympathies to which my whole being was bound,--this
+was indeed labor, too great, I often feared, to be accomplished. When
+the stress of inward conflict oppressed me, I would spring from my
+crouching-place in the lodge, rush into the open air, and seize upon
+every object that could in any degree divert attention and divide my
+thoughts. These exertions, with God's blessing, sufficed to restore, in
+some tolerable measure, the mental equilibrium, and to rescue me from
+the dominion of feelings the unrestrained action of which would have
+driven me to madness.
+
+During our stay of three or four days at this encampment, I had become
+so wearied with the monotony of their idleness, broken only by their
+desperate gambling,--the only thing, besides the chase, with which the
+Indians occupied themselves,--that for variety's sake, to divert my
+often-desponding moods, and to kill time, which hung heavily on my
+hands, I concluded to go out on a hunting frolic. Having procured a
+horse of the chief, and encased my lower extremities in a pair of native
+boots, much warmer than the ship shoes in which I had endured the cold,
+I set out with quite a party. We had gone six or eight miles, when I
+stopped for a short time, the rest of the troop riding off without
+regarding me. On remounting my charger, I put him to his utmost speed,
+in order to overtake them. While driving on at a furious rate, he
+stumbled and came to the ground, throwing his luckless rider over his
+head twenty feet or more, upon the hard, frozen ground. One ankle was
+severely sprained, and my whole body more or less bruised. So severe,
+indeed, was the shock, that I have occasional reminders of it to this
+day. No time was to be lost; and, with considerable effort, and no
+little pain, I succeeded in remounting. The swelling of my foot soon
+made my borrowed boots extremely uncomfortable, and I wished myself
+safely back at the lodge; but, at whatever expense of suffering, I had
+no resource but to follow the hunters till such time as they should see
+fit to return. The remembrance of that day's torment will not soon be
+lost. We arrived at the camp late in the evening; and, having been
+unsuccessful in the chase, went supperless to bed. On crawling into the
+hut and removing my boots, a sad sight was disclosed; but there was no
+present remedy. Dragging myself wearily into my corner, I had just
+crouched upon the skin, which had served for a saddle during the day and
+was still reeking from the horse's back, when a great dog came along,
+and threw his whole weight upon the lame foot, causing me to scream
+aloud for the pain. I drew back the serviceable foot, and gave him a
+kick that sent him through the fire and against the front of the lodge.
+Sleep kept at a distance till near morning, when I gained a brief
+oblivion of suffering.
+
+Day at last dawned, and with the morning's light came the busy note of
+preparation for removal. Down came the tents; the squaws packing up the
+furniture, and the Indians chasing and lassoing their horses. The noise
+and confusion, disagreeable enough under any circumstances, made the
+scene no inapt representative of chaos, from which I was glad to be
+delivered on the most expeditious terms possible; and I was easily
+persuaded to try my fortune again in the chase, more especially as we
+had nothing for breakfast. No words can do more than partial justice to
+one of these moving scenes. Not only the skin roofs of their wigwams,
+but the stakes and poles which constitute the frames, are carried along
+with them. Their furniture gives them little trouble, seldom consisting
+of more than the skins on which they sleep, an ox-horn tinder-box, a few
+sticks for roasting meat, and a leathern water-bucket. Tents and
+furniture are all packed together on their horses' backs. The pappooses
+in travelling are lashed to a kind of wooden sledge, rounded at the ends
+like sleigh-runners, and crossed with narrow slats, that bind the parts
+strongly together. The little brats are bound upon these machines, which
+are so shaped that their heads and feet are much below the general level
+of their bodies,--a very uncomfortable position for the youngsters, if
+they have as much sensibility to pain as other children, of which I
+incline to doubt, as they are inured from birth to almost every species
+of hardship. The sledge, with its living burden, is thrown across the
+horse's back, and made fast to the load. The mother mounts to the top of
+the pack, resting her feet on the horse's neck, and armed with a cudgel,
+with which she vigorously belabors the beast, right and left. The
+pappooses, not liking the quarters assigned to them, set up a general
+squalling. Mothers and maiden aunts join in full chorus, drawling out,
+at the top of their voices, "Hori! mutty, mutty! Hori! mutty, mutty!"
+without the least change, to the thousandth repetition. All these
+arrangements are made with remarkable celerity--in thirty minutes not a
+tent is left standing, but the whole tribe, their tenements and
+chattels, wives and brats, are all packed upon horses, and the motley
+cavalcade moves off like an army of beggars on horseback.
+
+[Illustration: BREAKING UP OF CAMP.]
+
+On the present occasion the movement was delayed, while we rode in
+search of something to eat. The chase was unsuccessful, scarcely enough
+being obtained to more than sharpen our appetites for dinner. The scanty
+meal being over, the whole company began their journey, which in its
+tortuous windings was not unlike that of the Israelites in the
+wilderness, but unlike that in the respect that we seemed to have no
+particular destination or object, except to explore new hunting-grounds,
+and gratify the capricious restlessness of the Indians. One very
+desirable end was answered,--we got enough to eat, as we were successful
+in killing a large quantity of game. The Indians, it was noticeable,
+were never at a loss to find their camps. So familiar did they seem with
+all their haunts and the general shape of the country, that though the
+surface presented to my eye scarcely any distinguishable way-marks, they
+would strike off from any point, however distant, and go with unerring
+aim straight to their tents. In returning laden with booty to our new
+homes, I was surprised to observe no indications whatever of water in
+the vicinity; a singular departure, at first sight, from their
+invariable custom, so far as I had noticed. Very soon the squaws issued
+from their huts, each with her leathern bucket. Curiosity prompted me to
+follow them a little way, when a spring was discovered, from which they
+had to dip the water with their ox-horn cups till the buckets were
+filled.
+
+About this time a new phase of life presented itself, to cast light on
+an important item of the social economy established in Patagonia.
+Looking out of our wigwam one evening just at dusk, I noticed an unusual
+concourse of Indians about two hundred yards distant. There were fifty
+or more, headed by one of the most ruffianly rascals in the tribe,
+marching in the direction of our lodge. I spoke to the chief about it,
+whereupon he went immediately to the back of the hut, and sat down on
+his little bed, his cutlass hanging beside him from a knot of one of the
+stakes. This he took down, laid it across his knees, and folded his
+arms. Something, I saw, was wrong. In anticipation of the worst that
+might befall me, I had found, a short time before, the handle of an old
+knife among the chief's trumpery, and also an odd blade; these I had put
+together, and the chief permitted me to carry it about my person, the
+only weapon he allowed me. I now planted myself on my knees beside him,
+and prepared to sell my life as dearly as possible, should the mob enter
+with evil designs towards me. The consciousness that I was in their
+power, and was sure to have the worst of any serious quarrel, made it my
+study to keep the peace with them as far as circumstances would admit;
+but there was a limit to my control of events, a very narrow limit,
+which I had constant reason to fear would be overborne by the impetuous
+hatred of my enemies, when nothing would be left but desperate
+resistance. Such a crisis seemed near, when the chief was himself
+reduced to a defensive attitude, and was indeed besieged in his own
+lodge.
+
+The motley throng surrounded the hut, their numbers constantly swelled
+by fresh arrivals; some were squat upon the ground, others peeping
+through the crevices. Presently one of the number addressed the chief,
+and the two conversed for some time in a low and unintelligible, but
+decided and emphatic tone. The crowd outside appeared to be a good deal
+excited, and kept up a continuous hum of rapid conversation. I looked
+and listened, with mingled curiosity and dread, while the chief repeated
+the same thing over and over again, in a firm, authoritative tone,
+tinged with anger. Unable to conjecture what was on foot, or to bear any
+longer the agony of suspense, I patted him familiarly on his naked
+breast, told him he had "a good heart," begged that he would not suffer
+the Indians to harm me. "You go sleep," was his answer; "no Indians come
+into this house to-night." I inquired what they were after, but no
+answer was vouchsafed, and he resumed his mysterious colloquy with the
+outsiders. The idea of sleeping under such circumstances was out of the
+question; I was wide awake, and bent on keeping so,--sorely bewildered
+at the strange goings on, and not a little terrified, but holding fast
+by my sole weapon of defence, and waiting a favorable opportunity to
+interpose another inquiry. The chief turned his head; and, perceiving my
+vigilance, repeated in an angry tone his injunction to sleep. This was a
+drop too much; and, clasping my arms about his dirty neck, patting his
+breast, and looking (with as confiding an air as I could assume) into
+his dull eyes, I begged him to speak to me, to tell me what these men
+wanted. "Do they want to break my head?"
+
+"The men don't want to hurt you," he said; "Indian wants a girl for his
+wife; poor Indian, very poor, got no horses nor anything else. I won't
+give him the woman."
+
+So speedy a descent from the height of my fears was not satisfactory; it
+was impossible to credit this explanation of such a formidable scene. I
+apprehended that it was a pure fiction, extemporized for the purpose of
+quieting me; but, as he seemed more communicative, I swallowed my
+doubts, and questioned him further. "What does poor Indian say?"
+
+"Says he'll steal plenty horses when we get where they are, and give the
+woman plenty of grease. Says he is a good hunter, good thief."
+
+These high titles to consideration did not seem to be admitted by the
+party they were offered to conciliate; on the contrary, the chief
+pronounced him a sleepy mink-skin of a fellow,--no thief at all; one
+that would never own a horse in the world. This opinion, which he was
+good enough to favor me with, he communicated to the party chiefly
+concerned, telling him that he was a poor, good-for-nothing Indian, he
+should not have the woman, and that was the end of it. After a little
+more jabber, and abundance of wrangling, the mob dispersed, much to my
+relief. Satisfied, by further conversation on the subject with old
+Parosilver, whose triumph over the mutiny had put him into better temper
+than usual, that the affair did not imminently concern my safety or
+welfare, I lay down to rest.
+
+In answer to further inquiries,--for I must plead guilty to a good deal
+of curiosity in respect of the poor Indian and his blasted hopes,--I was
+informed that without the chief's consent no marriage was permitted;
+that, in his judgment, no Indian who was not an accomplished
+rogue,--particularly in the horse-stealing line,--an expert hunter, able
+to provide plenty of meat and grease, was fit to have a wife on any
+terms. He never gave his consent for such lazy ones to take an extra
+rib; but, he very considerately added, all the difference it made was
+that some one else had to support the squaw till her suitor proved
+himself worthy, and acquired sufficient wealth to justify taking her to
+his wigwam; and, if he cared much for his _coury_, he would not be long
+in earning her; it would make him a first-rate thief,--the most
+indispensable title to favor in the tribe. It appeared that the
+possession of two horses, one for himself and one for his intended, was
+regarded as the proper outfit in a matrimonial adventure.
+
+The women are somewhat given to quarrelling among themselves; and, when
+their "combativeness" is once active, they fight like tigers. Jealousy
+is a frequent occasion. If a squaw suspects her liege lord of undue
+familiarity with a rival, she darts upon the fair enchantress with the
+fury of a wild beast; then ensues such a pounding, scratching and
+hair-pulling, as beggars description. The gay deceiver, if taken by
+surprise, slips quietly out, and stands at a safe distance to watch the
+progress of the combat, generally chuckling at the fun with great
+complacency. A crowd gathers round to cheer on the rivals; and the
+rickety wigwam, under the effect of the squall within, creaks and
+shivers like a ship in the wind's eye.
+
+While the _contract_ of marriage is so jealously regarded by the chief
+as to be subject to a veto in every case where a proposed match appears
+in his eyes unsuitable, the _ceremony_ is literally nothing at all. Due
+sanction having been given by the supreme authority, the bridegroom
+takes home his bride for better or worse, without any of the festivity
+which graces similar occasions elsewhere. About this time,--for, as I
+had no means of journalizing my experience, or even keeping the
+reckoning of weeks and months, it is quite impossible to assign
+dates,--a matrimonial transaction took place, accompanied by unusual
+solemnities. The rank of one party, and the extraordinary accessories of
+the occasion, will justify a particular notice of this "marriage in high
+life."
+
+One evening, the chief, his four wives, two daughters, an infant
+granddaughter, and myself, were scattered about the lodge, enveloped in
+a smoke of unusual strength and density. While the others sat around as
+unconcerned as so many pieces of bacon, I lay flat, with my face close
+to the ground, and my head covered with a piece of guanaco-skin, the
+only position in which it was possible to gain any relief from the
+stifling fumigation. While in this attitude, I fancied I heard the tramp
+of many feet without, and a confused muttering, as if a multitude of
+Indians were talking together. Presently a hoarse voice sounded in
+front, evidently aimed at the ears of some one within, to which the
+chief promptly replied. I caught a few words,--enough to satisfy me that
+I was not the subject of their colloquy, but that there was a lady in
+the case,--and listened curiously, without any of the fright which grew
+out of the previous negotiations. The conversation grew animated, and
+the equanimity of his high mightiness the chief was somewhat disturbed.
+I cast a penetrating glance into the smoke at the female members of our
+household, to discern, if possible; whether any one of them was
+specially interested. One look was sufficient; the chief's daughter
+(who, by the way, was a _quasi_ widow, with one hopeful scion springing
+up by her side) sat listening to the conversation, with anxiety and
+apprehension visible in every feature. Her mother sat near her, her chin
+resting upon her hand, with an anxious and thoughtful expression of
+countenance. The invisible speaker without, it soon appeared, was an
+unsuccessful suitor of the daughter, and had come with his friends to
+press his claim. He urged his suit, if not with classic, with "earnest"
+eloquence, but with success ill proportioned to his efforts. The chief
+told him he was a poor, good-for-nothing fellow, had no horses, and was
+unfit to be his son-in-law, or any one else's. The outsider was not to
+be so easily put off; he pressed his suit with fresh energy, affirming
+that his deficiency of horses was from want of opportunity, not from
+lack of will or ability to appropriate the first that came within his
+reach. On the contrary, he claimed to be as ingenious and accomplished a
+thief as ever swung a lasso or ran off a horse, and a mighty hunter
+besides, whose wife would never suffer for want of grease. The
+inexorable chief hereat got considerably excited, told him he was a poor
+devil, and might be off with himself; he wouldn't talk any more about
+it.
+
+The suppliant, as a last resort, appealed to the fair one herself,
+begging her to smile on his suit, and assuring her, with marked
+emphasis, that, if successful in his aspirations, he would give her
+_plenty of grease_. At this last argument she was unable to resist
+longer, but entreated her father to sanction their union. But the
+hard-hearted parent, not at all mollified by this appeal from his
+decision to an inferior tribunal, broke out in a towering passion, and
+poured forth a torrent of abuse. The mother here interposed, and
+besought him not to be angry with the young folks, but to deal more
+gently and considerately with them. She even hinted that he might have
+done injustice to the young man. He might turn out a smarter man than he
+had credit for. He might--who knew?--make a fine chief yet, possess
+plenty of horses, and prove a highly eligible match for their daughter.
+The old fellow had been (for him) quite moderate, but this was too much.
+His rage completely mastered him. He rose up, seized the pappoose's
+cradle, and hurled it violently out of doors, and the other chattels
+appertaining to his daughter went after it in rapid succession. He then
+ordered her to follow her goods _instanter_, with which benediction she
+departed, responding with a smile of satisfaction, doubtless
+anticipating the promised luxuries of her new home, the vision of which,
+through the present tempest, fortified her mind against its worst
+perils. Leaving the lodge, she gathered up her scattered effects, and,
+accompanied by her mother, the bridal party disappeared.
+
+The chief sat on his horse-skin couch, his legs crossed partly under
+him, looking sour enough. Presently the bride and her mother returned,
+and now began the second scene. The chief no sooner recognized them than
+a sound--something between a grunt and a growl, but much nearer the
+latter than the former, and in a decided _crescendo_--gave warning of a
+fresh eruption. The rumbling grew more emphatic, and suddenly his fury
+burst on the head of his wife. Seizing her by the hair, he hurled her
+violently to the ground, and beat her with his clenched fists till I
+thought he would break every bone in her body, and reduce her substance
+to a jelly. Perhaps I was a little hard-hearted, but she had been one of
+my bitterest enemies, and I had a feeling that if some of her ill-will
+to me could be beaten out of her, I could be easily resigned to her
+fate. The drubbing ended, she rose and muttered something he did not
+like. He replied by a violent blow on the side of her head, that sent
+her staggering to the further end of the hut. This last argument was
+decisive, and she kept her huge mouth closed for the night. There was a
+silent pause for some minutes, and, without another word, we ranged
+ourselves for repose. I thought the old heathen's conscience troubled
+him through the night; his sleep was broken, and he appeared very
+restless. Early the next morning he went to the lodge of the
+newly-married pair, and had a long chat with them. They thought him
+rather severe upon them at first; but, after a good deal of diplomacy, a
+better understanding was brought about. The young people could hardly
+get over a sense of the indignities they had received; but in the course
+of the day they returned, bag and baggage, to the old chief's tent, and
+made it their permanent abode.
+
+We now moved in a westerly direction, and on the way succeeded in
+capturing a good deal of game. Their mode of dealing with the carcass of
+the guanaco is enough to dissipate whatever appetizing qualities the
+meat--in itself very palatable--would otherwise possess. It was no
+uncommon circumstance, while the squaws were removing the hide, to see
+the dogs tugging at the other extremity, the women, meantime, crying out
+"Eh! Ah!" in a dissuasive, though not angry, tone. If the animals become
+too audacious, the ire of their mistresses is kindled, and they break
+out with "Cashuran cashahy!" a phrase equivalent to that which, in
+English, directs its object to a region unmentionable in ears polite.
+
+The Indians have, strictly speaking, no profane expressions. I never
+could learn that they worshipped or had any idea of a Supreme Being. The
+only observance which bore any aspect of religion was associated with
+something we should little think of as an object of adoration--the
+tobacco-pipe;--though, how far this is, in fact, an object of idolatry
+in Christian lands, it might not become me to speculate. The only
+occasions on which the Indians discovered any appearance of devotion
+were those of smoking. This may have been only a symptom of
+intoxication, but the reader may judge for himself.
+
+A group of a dozen or more assemble,--sometimes in a wigwam, sometimes
+in the open air. A vessel made of a piece of hide bent into a
+saucer-shape while green and afterwards hardened, or sometimes an
+ox-horn, filled with water, is set on the ground. A stone pipe is filled
+with the scrapings of a wood resembling yellow ebony, mixed with
+finely-cut tobacco. The company then lay themselves in a circle flat on
+their faces, their mantles drawn up to the tops of their heads. The pipe
+is lighted. One takes it into his mouth and inhales as much smoke as he
+can swallow; the others take it in succession, till all have become
+satisfied. By the time the second smoker is fully charged, the first
+begins a series of groanings and gruntings, with a slight trembling of
+the head, the smoke slowly oozing out at the nostrils. The groaning soon
+becomes general, and waxes louder, till it swells into a hideous
+howling, enough to frighten man or beast. The noise gradually dies away.
+They remain a short time in profound silence, and each imbibes a draught
+of water. Then succeeds another interval of silence, observed with the
+most profound and devotional gravity. All at length arise, and slowly
+disperse. Now, this may or may not have been a form of worship; but the
+circumstances attending it, the numbers uniformly engaged in it the
+formality with which it was invariably conducted, the solemnity of
+visage, the reverential grimace, the prostration, the silence, the
+trembling,--these, and traits of expression which are more easily
+discerned and remembered than described, gave me a decided impression
+that the whole had a superstitious meaning. The natural operation of the
+tobacco, and of the substance mixed with it, might explain part of the
+symptoms,--the writhing and groaning,--but these appeared to be a good
+deal in excess, and there were other features of the case which appeared
+to require another solution.
+
+I never asked any explanation. The mystery which savage tribes are so
+apt to throw around their religious rites, and their resentment at any
+unhallowed curiosity, I was not inclined to meddle with or provoke. If
+my conjectures were just as to the nature of this ceremony, inquiry
+might lead to unpleasant consequences. Ignorance appeared, on the whole,
+safer than knowledge of good or evil, gained at the risk of being caught
+trespassing on things forbidden. If any one thinks my precaution
+excessive, he is at liberty to take a different course whenever he finds
+himself in the jurisdiction of Parosilver, or any other Patagonian
+chief.
+
+The inquiry may arise, especially in the mind of the religious reader,
+whether I attempted to impart to my captors any knowledge of God, his
+attributes and laws. The answer is quite ready,--No, and for a variety
+of reasons. The writer did not understand enough of either Spanish or
+Indian to communicate intelligible ideas on any matters beyond the range
+of the senses, and Patagonia is pretty barren of sensible phenomena,
+which made my stock of words more limited than it might have been under
+more favorable circumstances. There was no finding "tongues in trees,"
+or "books in the running brooks;" the land possesses neither in numbers
+sufficient to be conversable. "Sermons in stones," even, must have been
+of very pebbly dimensions, and of no great weight. Had this difficulty
+been removed, I confess I had no great desire to surmount it. I was the
+object of suspicion and hostility. My life was in constant danger. To
+diminish, as far as possible, the causes of dislike, to mitigate their
+ferocious hate, to elude occasions of mischief, to delay what I feared
+could not be very long prevented, was my continual study. If the reader
+is not satisfied with this account of my conduct, I am sorry for it, but
+cannot afford any words of contrition. It is vastly easier, I may hint
+to the objector, to prescribe another's duties than to judge of one's
+own, especially where the two parties are in circumstances so widely
+differing. The Patagonians need the gospel--and the law--as much as any
+people I could name from personal observation. There was no trace of
+instruction imparted at a previous period, and the reception
+Christianity would meet with among them is yet to be discovered.
+
+Their pipes are made of a hard red stone, the bowl dug out with whatever
+iron or steel implement is at command to the dimensions of an ordinary
+clay pipe, the stem about an inch square, and three inches long, with a
+small perforation. A copper or brass tube, about two inches long, is
+fitted to the stem, and serves as a mouth-piece. This is made by bending
+or hammering a metallic plate about a small round stick, and soldering
+or cementing it with a glutinous substance thickened with earth.
+
+The copper, brass and iron, seen among them, was probably procured from
+unfortunate vessels wrecked on their coast. I was informed by Captain
+Morton, of whom the persevering reader will know more hereafter, that he
+had touched at Sea Bear Bay for a harbor, and saw there great quantities
+of iron pumps, ships' hanging knees, and other gear, from wrecks of
+vessels of all sizes. As he was bound for the land of gold, he thought
+it scarcely worth his while to collect the baser metals. Had he been
+homeward bound, he might have obtained a valuable cargo.
+
+As ornaments, bits of brass and copper, of silver and German silver,
+have a high value among the Indians, and when the metals are plenty such
+adornment is very common. The children's shoes have small oval pieces
+sewed on in front, and they appear on other parts of their dress. When
+scarce, they are more seldom seen. Blacksmithing in Patagonia is
+something of the rudest. Two hard flat stones do duty, the one as anvil,
+and the other as hammer. Of the effect of heat in making the metals
+malleable, and of the art of tempering, the people have no knowledge. To
+make a knife, they take a piece of iron hoop, or iron in any practicable
+shape, and hammer away upon it at a provokingly slow rate. Their blows
+are not heavy enough to do much execution; but they keep up a constant
+tap, tap, tap, hour by hour, till the iron is flattened to the required
+shape and dimensions. It is then rubbed on a smooth stone till it is
+worn down to an edge, and finally inserted into a wooden handle.
+Sometimes melted lead is poured into the handle, but lead appeared to be
+a scarce commodity. All mechanic arts, if they deserve the name, are in
+an equally rude and primitive stage. The simplicity of these people's
+ideas is indeed extraordinary. In invention or constructiveness they are
+babes. A Yankee boy, six years old, would be a prodigy among them,--a
+miracle of genius.
+
+An opportunity was afforded, while in camp, to see some specimens of
+their tailoring or mantua-making achievements;--either term is
+appropriate, as the male and female dress do not differ in form, and but
+slightly in the mode of adjustment. The mantle or blanket is worn around
+the shoulders; those of the women are fastened together by the corners
+under the chin with a stick for a pin; the men hold theirs around them
+with their hands, except that when hunting they tie a string around the
+waist.
+
+The skins of young guanacos are selected for mantles, on account of the
+superior fineness and softness of the hair. Nearly a dozen skins are
+used for a single mantle, as a large part of each is esteemed unfit for
+use, and thrown away. The skins, while green, are stretched to their
+utmost tension on the ground to dry. When partially dried, they are
+scraped on the inside with a stone sharpened like a gun-flint, sprinkled
+the while with water, to facilitate the operation. When the surface is
+made tolerably smooth, and of a pretty uniform thickness, it is actively
+scoured with a coarse-grained stone, till it has a bright polish. The
+skin is again dried, then crumpled and twisted in the hands till it
+becomes perfectly soft and pliable. The thread, as has been stated, is
+made from the sinews of the ostrich. These are extracted by the exertion
+of great strength, and divided into strings about the size of ordinary
+shoe-thread. They are then twisted, the ends are scraped to a point, and
+when dry become stiff; they are now ready for use.
+
+Two pieces of skin are cut to fit each other. The tailoress (for all the
+work, from the curing of the skins to the last results, is done by the
+squaws) holds the edges together with the left hand, and drills them for
+sewing with a sharpened nail, held between the first two fingers of the
+right hand; the pointed thread, held between the finger and thumb, is
+inserted and drawn through, and so the work goes on. The stitches are
+tolerably fine, and a very neat seam is made. Other pieces are added,
+and when the whole is finished the seams are rubbed smooth with a bone.
+The fur being worn inside, there remains the work of outside decoration.
+With a due quantity of clay, blood, charcoal and grease, amalgamated for
+the purpose, the artist arms herself with a stick for a brush, and
+executes divers figures in black, on a red ground; which, if intended to
+shadow forth men, require a vigorous imagination to detect the purpose.
+They might pass for unhappy ghosts (if a little more ethereal in
+composition), or for deformed trees. They bear a rude resemblance to a
+chair in profile, or a figure 4; and are thickly disposed over the whole
+surface, in the attitude sometimes vulgarly termed "spoon-fashion." The
+garment is now complete; the edges are carefully trimmed with a knife,
+and the fabric is thrown over the shoulders, with the infallible
+certainty of fitting as closely as the native tastes require. There is
+no trial of patience in smoothing obstinate wrinkles. A "genteel fit" is
+the easiest thing in the world; wherein Patagonian tailors have
+decidedly the advantage of their fellow-craftsmen in civilized lands.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase.
+
+
+At our next halt we encamped in a deep, swampy valley. The weather was
+cold and stormy; rain, snow, sleet and hail, fell alternately, but did
+not accumulate on the earth to any considerable depth. Fitful gusts of
+wind came sweeping through the camp, making the wigwams shake fearfully.
+Our old lodge gallantly rode out the gale; but, either owing to its
+straining and working in the storm, or to some defects in the original
+structure, leaked shockingly all night. I was repeatedly awakened by a
+stream of cold water running under me. Giving the skin roof a few knocks
+to lighten it of its watery burden, and shaking the wet skin which
+constituted my couch, I would throw myself down, and resign myself to
+repose; but before quiet was fairly restored, another inundation would
+drive me to my feet. The night wore away with me, wet, cold and
+sleepless. After daybreak I rose, and continued for two hours in
+vigorous exercise to restore warmth to my chilled frame, before the
+Indians were astir. Fires were then kindled, and matters began to
+assume a more cheerful appearance.
+
+The weather, quite cool on my first landing, had grown gradually colder,
+and was becoming inclement. I was scantily prepared to endure the
+severity of winter. My under-garments, as before related, were
+desperately expended in trying to signal passing vessels. Cravat and
+pocket-handkerchief were appropriated to the adornment of the women in
+our household, to the no small envy of less favored ones. My sole
+article of linen was in shreds, and of a color that would afford matter
+for speculation to a jury of washerwomen. Stockings and shoes were sadly
+dilapidated; coat and trousers were glazed with dirt and grease till
+they shone like a glass bottle. The contents of my pockets were all
+confiscated,--purse, keys, knife, &c.,--and a pair of pistols, of the
+use of which my captors knew nothing, were taken to pieces, and the
+brass mountings suspended about the necks of the chief's wives. In
+short, my outer man was nigh unto perishing, and I had no visible
+resources to arrest or repair the process of time, while I was not
+sufficiently inured to the climate to adopt the native dress without
+serious risk to health. But none of these things were allowed to trouble
+me. I took no thought for the morrow, but, according to the scriptural
+injunction, suffered the morrow to take care for the things of itself,
+esteeming sufficient unto each day the evil thereof.
+
+At an early period of my captivity, the chief and some other Indians had
+cast a longing eye on my clothes, and tried to seduce me into parting
+with them. They offered no compulsion in the matter, but resorted to all
+manner of tricks. It seemed that they thought a white man could afford
+to go without dressing. I explained to them that, having always worn
+clothes,--having in infancy, even, unlike Patagonian piccaninnies, been
+externally protected against the fresh air,--it was quite impossible for
+me to change my habits without the hazard of my life; and, if I should
+die in consequence of yielding to their wishes, they were reminded they
+would lose the valuable ransom they expected for me. This reasoning
+proved convincing; greatly as they longed for my wardrobe, they more
+desired rum and tobacco, and I was permitted the undisturbed enjoyment
+of the scanty covering left me.
+
+The storm continued for two days and nights; on the third day it cleared
+up. About mid-day, observing a crowd of Indians together with a huge
+jargon of tongues, I learned, on inquiry, that a horse was to be killed;
+a matter which, it appeared, was always the occasion of a solemn powwow.
+On reaching the spot, a poor old beast, lean and lank, with a lariat
+about his neck, stood surrounded by some fifty Indians. The squaws were
+singing, in stentorian tones, "Ye! Ye! Yup! Yup! Lar, lapuly, yapuly!"
+with a repetition that became unendurable, and drove me to a respectful
+distance. The horse's fore-legs were fast bound together, a violent push
+forward threw him heavily to the ground, and he was speedily despatched
+with a knife; anticipating, by a few days, the ordinary course of
+nature. Soon after my return to the wigwam, a huge portion of the
+carcass was sent to our quarters and hung up, to furnish our next meals!
+After being duly dressed by the women, with the aid of the dogs, and
+scorched and smoked according to usage, it was served up,--my only
+alternative to starvation. Famine has no scruples of delicacy; if the
+reader is disgusted, he is in a state of sympathy with the writer.
+
+Early the next day we (literally) pulled up stakes, and were on the
+move; and, after journeying all day, encamped in a situation very like
+the one we left in the morning. The Indians spent their time, as usual,
+in gambling and in combing each other's hair, with a brush made of stiff
+dry roots, tied up together. The operator received as a fee the _game_
+captured in the process. The reader will excuse a more explicit
+statement of what, though less abominable than cannibalism, is hardly
+less repulsive.
+
+One evening our family circle were seated round a fire, which sent up
+volumes of smoke sufficiently dense to suit a savage of the most
+exacting taste, and which drove me, as usual, to the back part of the
+hut, where I lay flat on my face. One of the chief's wives was
+inveighing against me, as was her wont, and a second occasionally joined
+in the strain, by way of chorus. A third was cracking the bones of a
+guanaco, that her son Cohanaco might eat the marrow. The fourth and last
+of the women was attending to a piece of meat for our supper, fixed on a
+forked stick, in the smoke. Two sons were engaged, as usual, in doing
+nothing, except occasionally begging a little of the marrow, and
+scraping their dirty legs with a sheath-knife, by way of diversion;
+sundry by-plays, and little pieces of mischief, served to fill up the
+spare minutes. The old chief, who had been silently regarding the scene,
+now commenced talking, in a low, mumbling, guttural tone, to one of his
+wives. She was busily eying the toasting-fork, and studying the process
+of cooking; but, at her husband's instance, left them, and drew from
+their repository of tools a sharpened nail fixed in a wooden handle,
+like an awl. The chief stretched himself on the ground, face downwards;
+a surgical operation was plainly impending. What could the matter be?
+Had the chief, in the excess of his plumpness, burst open, like ripe
+fruit, requiring to be sewed up? I drew my head from beneath the
+protection I had provided against the smoke, and rose on my knees, to
+get a better view; the huge, black, greasy monster lay extended at his
+full length, his wife pinched up the skin on his back, pierced it with
+her awl, and continued the process till a number of perforations were
+made, from which the blood oozed slowly. I asked the meaning of this
+operation, and was told by the chief that he had pains in his back, for
+which this was the best remedy. Blood-letting, it seemed, is no monopoly
+of the faculty. I told him that in my country we applied, in such cases,
+a liquid called opodeldoc, an infallible remedy, and promised to procure
+him some when we got to Holland. This was henceforth added to my list of
+inducements.
+
+The old fellow righted himself, and leaned against one of the pillars of
+his palace; one of his partners pulled up the toasting-fork, and jerked
+the half-roasted and more than sufficiently smoked meat upon the ground,
+seized the knife which the boys had been playing with, and cut the mess
+into liberal pieces, which were thrown broadcast on either side. The
+chief's appetite did not appear to be affected either by his
+indisposition or by the extraordinary remedy applied; his portion of the
+_c�rne_ disappeared behind his great white teeth with a haste that
+seemed to involve no waste.
+
+Rheumatic affections, they told me, are very common among them; the
+chief showed me the arm of one of his wives, which was scarred from the
+wrist to the shoulder by the awl; and the operation was afterwards
+performed on other members of the family.
+
+Again we took up the line of march, travelling, as near as I could
+judge, west-north-west, and killing a quantity of game, both guanaco and
+ostrich. But the hardship of my life, aggravated by a constant flesh
+diet, and that eaten half raw, and at irregular seasons,--often going
+two days without food,--had, by this time, brought on a dysentery. This
+was no more than I had expected; but I knew of no remedy, and had to
+endure it as I could. We encamped, on the second day, near the banks of
+the river Gallegos; a fine spring of water issued from the river-bank
+into a low marshy ground, skirting the margin of the stream. By this
+time my illness had increased, till I felt unfit to travel further, and
+began to think that death could not be distant. No change of diet was
+practicable, and there was nothing to counteract its effect on my
+system. The pain and weariness of travelling did their part to aggravate
+the disorder; and mental discouragement--the sickness of hope
+deferred--completed my prostration. No human being in that desolate land
+cared for my sufferings, more than they would for those of a dog. Worn
+out with the constant irritations of a state of existence odious to
+every sensibility, tired and disheartened, but for one thought I could
+have gladly laid myself down to die, to get at once and forever beyond
+the reach of my savage tormentors. The thought of home, of wife and
+child, of friends and country, and all the unutterable emotions that
+respond to these precious names, at once tortured and strengthened me.
+These, and the thought that perhaps, after patient endurance, Divine
+Providence would restore me to the objects of my famished affections,
+made life still dear. These strengthened me to suffer and to strive.
+
+As I crawled out of the lodge, to look upon the sun, and breathe the
+pure air, and be refreshed by breezes untainted with the breath of cruel
+men, it came into my mind that some palatable or even tolerable species
+of plant or root would be wholesome for me. On looking about, there
+presented itself a specimen of large dock, such as is common in the
+United States; a weed of humble pretensions, but why not worthy of a
+trial? With what strength remained at command, I began a process of
+"extracting roots," with good success. Taking a quantity into the hut,
+and roasting them in hot ashes, they were found to be not distasteful; I
+filled my pockets with them, and abandoned flesh-diet for a little time,
+to the sensible, though gradual, relief of my sufferings. Fortunately we
+had a season of bad weather, which prevented any advance movement for
+four or five days, and gave me time partially to recover strength. I
+could not sooner have kept my seat on a horse; and, if the alternative
+had been presented, the Indians, as I very well knew, would sooner have
+knocked me on the head than have allowed me to hinder their march for a
+day. A powwow was held over another horse, unserviceable alive, and
+therefore marked for diet; but this time I did not compete for any part
+of his carcass, my pocket-stores being quite sufficient, and more
+attractive. But in the fate of the poor beast I read a warning to
+myself, to make haste and get well enough to move at the first signal.
+
+Away again,--this time facing about, and passing down the river. I
+needed rest; but, at whatever expense of suffering, needs must when a
+certain old gentleman drives. At the next stopping-place my services
+were called into requisition in a new department. One forenoon, as I
+sauntered towards our wigwam, after a stroll among the smutty huts, to
+kill time and divert painful thoughts, I was hailed from within by the
+chief, "Arke, Boney!" On entering, he appeared to be conversing, in low,
+gurgling sounds, with his lately-married daughter, who was running her
+hands through the shaggy hair of her young hope, as she talked.
+Something was plainly wrong in the youngster's top-knot, and some
+unpleasant task in relation thereto was as plainly about to be imposed
+upon me. The chief resolved my doubts, by ordering me to cut off a
+portion of the shag; I objected a want of the proper implements, but the
+mother silenced me by producing an old pair of scissors, in no condition
+to cut anything. Calling for a file, the rusty edges were brought into a
+tolerable state, and I approached the task. Such a sight! If the hair
+now would have obeyed a mesmeric pass, without the need of manual
+contact,--if the job could be performed with closed eyes, and insensible
+nostrils, and absent mind! Faugh! I hurried through the penance, hiding
+disgust, and assuming the appearance of good will, and made good my
+escape into the fresh air. And so I must turn barber, and, in all
+likelihood, have the dirty heads of half the tribe put under my nose!
+What would come next?
+
+Our next move took us across the river Gallegos, in shoal water, barely
+up to the horses' knees. The current was rapid, and masses of floating
+ice were swept along with it. When half way across, my horse took
+fright, reared, and, in attempting a sudden turn, precipitated me into
+the water, and fell heavily upon me. The ducking and the bruise together
+were severe, and, among other disasters, the crystal of my watch was
+broken by the shock. This I had kept carefully secreted, as a last
+resort, to amuse the savages when other expedients should fail,--when
+memory and invention could yield no more tales, when promises should
+have become threadbare with repetition, and when pretensions of
+greatness at home should have lost their power by the every-day
+disclosure of present weakness and humiliation.
+
+We--that is to say, myself and the old horse--kicked and floundered a
+while in the cold water, till at last the creature succeeded in rising,
+and I followed his example. We waded ashore, dripping, amidst the
+uproarious laughter of the whole troop. Once more mounted on my
+Rosinante, we resumed our line of march. The chill from my cold bath so
+benumbed me that I had to dismount and lead the horse, to recover, by
+brisk walking, some portion of animal warmth. Our course was down the
+river towards the Atlantic. Being unsuccessful in the chase, we pitched
+our tents at night, supperless, and without prospect of breakfasting the
+next morning. A small fire was lighted, which I hugged as closely as
+possible, to thaw my stiffened limbs; and then, cold, wet and hungry,
+fagged to extremity, cast myself on the ground, to repose as I might.
+The next morning was stormy. It cleared up in the afternoon, and the
+Indians sallied out to find some food. My only refreshment before their
+return was a little grease, which one of the squaws scooped out of an
+ostrich-skin with her dirty thumb and finger. It was so black that its
+pedigree--whether guanaco, ostrich or skunk, or a compound gathered at
+random from beast and bird--was a problem defying solution; but famine
+is not fastidious, and I swallowed greedily what, a few months before, I
+should hardly have thought fit to grease shoes with. The men came back
+with a few ostriches and skunks. The chief received as his portion one
+of the quadrupeds. The associations connected with its name, as related
+to one sense, were not adapted to prepossess the others in its favor;
+but I made shift to do justice rather to the Indian than to my habitual
+tastes.
+
+During the three days we remained here, the long-concealed watch was
+brought to light. The filth of the natives, the condition in which their
+huts and their persons were always suffered to remain, the swarms of
+vermin they housed, had imposed upon me extraordinary care to prevent
+the natural results upon my own person; but no amount of precaution was
+sufficient to avert them. The reader will excuse me from speaking more
+particularly on this head. Enough to say that I found myself intolerably
+tormented. The chief ordered an examination of the case, and sent for an
+Indian to deal with it according to their art. While divesting myself of
+my garments, one by one, for this purpose, the old fellow caught sight
+of the hidden treasure. I knew that it was useless to attempt any longer
+to retain it, and handed it over. He was vastly pleased with it. I wound
+it up, and put it to his ear. He was as delighted at the unexpected
+sound as a child with its first rattle. I explained its use in keeping
+the hours of the day, but he cared for nothing but the ticking. The
+breaking of the crystal was explained, and he was informed that another
+should be procured as soon as we reached "Holland,"--another inducement,
+I hoped, to speed our passage there.
+
+The inspection disclosed a state of the cuticle which would be thought
+dreadful in a civilized land. The chief, however, looked as calm as
+beseemed a surgical examiner, and in a good-natured guttural exchanged a
+few words with his assistant, who placed himself by my side, and fixing
+his eyes steadily upon me, begun swinging his hands and howling like a
+wild beast. The comparison was not far out of the way, for he gave a
+sudden spring, fastened his teeth on my neck, and commenced sucking the
+blood, growling all the while like a tiger! For a moment I thought my
+hour had come. I weaned the rascal as soon as possible, not knowing what
+his taste for blood might come to, if too freely indulged. It seemed
+like a refinement upon cannibalism, but was, in fact, as I soon
+ascertained, the regular treatment made and provided by Patagonian
+science for the relief of severe cutaneous affections.
+
+The chief, all this while, recurred with undiminished pleasure to the
+ticking of his new toy. When his curiosity had at length abated, he
+returned it to me. I wrapped it carefully in a rag, and enveloped it
+afterwards in a young colt's skin provided for its reception, when, by
+direction of its present august proprietor, it was suspended among other
+valuables from one of the stakes of the hut, near the spot where his
+highness customarily reposed. It was not, however, allowed long to
+remain quiet. I was ordered to take it down and hold it to the ears of
+all the visitors to the lodge. Forty times a day it had to come down for
+this purpose, till I got so tired of my showman's duty that I wished
+the watch in the bottom of the sea. The Indians, as they listened to its
+vibrations, would stand in every attitude of silent amazement, their
+eyes dilated, their countenances lighted up in every feature with
+delighted wonder, and then break out in a roar of hoarse laughter, the
+tone of which strangely contrasted with the infantile simplicity of
+their demeanor. The business was dreadfully annoying, and yet it was
+plain that a new and almost unbounded power affecting my destiny was
+hidden in that little machine. It had captivated the chief, and struck
+an awe over the tribe like the rod of an enchanter. Whether it boded
+good or evil, was another question.
+
+Our next move took us in a west-north-west direction, and in our
+progress we not only secured abundant game of the ordinary varieties,
+but encountered and killed a young lion,--to use the popular term,--the
+first living specimen I had seen in the country. I had seen their skins
+in possession of the Indians, and heard stories of their chase. This was
+a youthful creature, about the size of a well-grown calf of six weeks. I
+was riding side by side with the chief across a piece of low bushy land,
+when the dogs gave token that they scented something uncommon. We
+halted, and the chief cried out to the dogs, "Chew! Chew!" They were off
+in a jiffey, rushing hither and thither through the bushes, barking
+furiously, and soon drove the beast from his covert. Other Indians, a
+little distance off, ascertaining what was in the wind, made after the
+game with a reinforcement of dogs. The chase began in good earnest.
+Horses, riders and dogs, from all points of the compass, were scampering
+to the scene of action, hallooing, barking, howling, enough to frighten
+any unsophisticated lion out of his senses. Some were running full tilt,
+to cut off his retreat; while the hunters, bareheaded, leaning forward
+in their saddles and urging their horses to their utmost speed, whirled
+the bolas about their heads and let fly with a vengeance, with no other
+effect than to arrest the furious animal, and cause him to turn in
+desperation on the dogs, and drive them back yelping with pain. Others
+of the pack, watching their opportunity, would spring upon his back and
+fasten their teeth in his flesh. He brushed them off with a single
+stroke of his paw, as if they had been flies, and was again in motion,
+halting occasionally to give fight to his nearest assailant. Now and
+then the bolas is hurled at him, but his lithe limbs, though sometimes
+entangled, are not fettered by it, and his prowess is hardly diminished.
+The Indians press around him; the battle waxes fiercer; his whole
+strength is taxed. "Chew! Chew!" roar the savages; the flagging dogs
+return fresh to the onslaught, and, after a hard and unequal contest,
+the animal is fairly overborne by numbers, and despatched by the blows
+of the Indians. I had kept in the vicinity, but yet at a respectful
+distance, and now rode up to view the slain, amidst the howlings of the
+wounded dogs and the boisterous laughter of the hunters. It was a
+beautiful animal, with soft, sleek, silvery fur, tipped with black; the
+head having a general resemblance to that of a cat, the eye large and
+full, and sparkling with ferocity.
+
+After the Indians had eyed their game sufficiently, and talked and
+laughed and grunted their satisfaction, and congratulated themselves
+generally on their victory, and severally on the part each had taken,
+the body was driven off on the back of a horse, and the hunters again
+spread themselves over the country. Some ostriches were soon started up.
+The chief drew out his bolas, put spurs to his horse, and darted away.
+His mantle fell from his shoulders: his long, straight black hair, so
+coarse that each particular hair stood independently on end, streamed in
+the wind; his hideously painted face and body loomed up with grotesque
+stateliness, and the deadly missile whirled frantically over his head.
+The whizzing weapon is suddenly hurled at his victim, the chief still
+sitting erect in his saddle to watch its effect. His horse suddenly
+stops,--he dismounts nimbly, seizes the entangled bird by the throat,
+and swings it violently around till its neck is broken. As I rode up he
+deposited the great bird on my horse, remounted, and rushed in pursuit
+of another. That was killed and also placed in my keeping, making me a
+kind of store-ship. Others pursue the guanaco with equal success, till
+they are satisfied with their booty. We ride up to a convenient thicket,
+a fire is lighted, a portion of the prey is cooked and eaten, the
+remnants of the feast and the residue of the game are duly packed up,
+and the whole troop is under march for the camp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life.
+
+
+The chief occasionally made a speech to his subjects from the door of
+his lodge, wherein he invariably inculcated the duty of hunting
+industriously to procure meat, and a due supply of grease, for their
+families. He never had an auditor in sight, for his faithful lieges
+considered the speech from the throne a decided bore, and, if one
+happened to be passing, he was sure to dodge into the nearest hut till
+the infliction was over; but the leathern lungs of the orator could not
+fail to make him audible in many of the wigwams. In length his
+performances more resembled the official addresses of our republican
+rulers than those of his royal cousins of Europe, seldom falling short
+of a full hour. In style, they came nearer the proclamations of a crier.
+He would proceed in a monotonous rumble to the end of a sentence, and
+then defy contradiction by repeating several times, "Comole! comole!
+comole!" after which he paused, as for a reply. No one having the
+audacity to take up his challenge, he would go on croaking the same
+things with tedious iteration. After listening very patiently to one of
+his harangues, I inwardly applauded the taste of his subjects in getting
+as far as possible out of the reach of his voice.
+
+One forenoon, as I was beginning to feel impatient to move,--for every
+movement seemed to fan the flickering hope that we would soon reach a
+place affording some avenue of escape, and this restlessness always made
+camp-life doubly dismal,--the chief informed me that we should decamp
+that day. Preparations had commenced, when one of his daughters came in
+with a child crying at a tempestuous rate. The version which she gave of
+his complaints arrested the marching orders. A messenger was forthwith
+despatched for one skilled in the healing art. The physician soon
+arrived, armed with two small packages rolled up in pieces of skin,
+about a foot long and three or four inches in diameter, which I took to
+be his medicine-chest. He walked gravely in, laid down the packages, and
+squatted beside the mother, who held the little patient in her arms.
+Whatever his ailment might have been, his lungs could not have been
+impaired, for he was roaring like a young buffalo. Not a word was spoken
+for some time, the doctor all the while looking him very steadily in the
+eye. Then came a sudden calm, importing that the little fellow
+experienced some relief, or, more probably, that he was exhausted. The
+doctor ordered an application,--not of hot water, according to the
+prescription of Sangrado, but of a mortar made of clay. The clay was
+brought, the anxious mother worked it over with her two hands, spitting
+upon it to give it the requisite moisture, and having reduced it to the
+consistency of thick paint, bedaubed the little fellow from head to
+foot, giving him a decidedly original appearance. He evidently took
+umbrage at this unction, and discoursed in his shrillest tones till he
+was fairly out of breath. The medicine-chests were opened, but, instead
+of medicinal herbs, disclosed only a bunch of ostrich's sinews and a
+rattle eight or ten inches long. The physician commenced fingering the
+strings, and muttering almost inaudibly. This lasted four or five
+minutes, at the expiration of which he seized his rattle, and clattered
+away furiously for a minute or two, and resumed his place by his
+patient, eying him intently as before. He then turned with an air of
+importance to the chief, who had been crouching cross-legged on his
+couch, leaning forward, with his arms tightly folded on his breast, and
+watching anxiously the progress of the treatment. The man of skill broke
+silence: "I think he is better; don't you?" The chief nodded, and
+grunted assent. The same appeal was made to the mother, and received a
+like response. Another plastering was ordered, another burst of melody
+followed the application, the mysterious strings were again fingered,
+duly followed by the rattle. The parent and grandparent once more
+assented to the leech that the child was better. The chief took out a
+piece of tobacco, and cut off enough for about two pipefuls, which was
+tendered and gratefully accepted as a professional fee. The strings were
+tied up and replaced in their proper receptacle, and the rattle was
+shaken with hearty good will, whether by way of finale to the cure, or
+as a note of gratitude for the fee, or of triumph for success, could not
+easily be guessed. But the practitioner had scarcely evacuated the
+lodge, before his patient broke out more vociferously than ever; which
+I thought would somewhat shake the faith of his guardians in the
+treatment he had received. But no; their confidence in their medical
+adviser was not to be blown away by a breath, or even a tempest. They
+evidently regarded him as nearly infallible. His remedies were obviously
+aimed more at the imaginations of his spectators than at the body of his
+patient, but it was no concern of mine. Patients among us have to endure
+more disagreeable applications than wet clay. The noisy brat became
+quiet, to our great relief. He shortly appeared to be quite well, and
+continued to thrive for some time, as I had opportunity to witness.
+
+The tribe went ahead with alacrity, to make up for the loss of time this
+sickness occasioned. We moved off another day's journey towards nowhere
+in particular, and settled there at night. Then ensued another season of
+camp life, feasting and fasting, gambling and quarrelling, and venting
+superfluous wrath in an abundance of "Cashuran cashaly's." The chief was
+slightly indisposed, and I amused him with a description of the manner
+in which our physicians count the pulse of their patients. He listened
+with considerable interest, and sat thoughtfully ruminating on the
+matter. He came to an unexpected and alarming conclusion; putting this
+and my story of the _opodeldoc_ together, he made up his mind that I was
+a physician myself! I protested against this inference, fearing that no
+good would come of the responsibilities he was inclined to impose on me.
+But the disclaimer was useless,--he stuck to the opinion; and in no long
+time it was understood through all the tribe that I was a distinguished
+doctor.
+
+Now, it came to pass, at this critical turn of affairs, that a certain
+widow, of pretty ripe years for a Patagonian, was taken suddenly ill.
+Her husband had been murdered many years before by one of the tribe. She
+was possessed of several horses, and, in virtue of this wealth, held an
+aristocratic position in society. A messenger brought the tidings to the
+chief, who ordered me forthwith to set the watch, and go with him to her
+residence. I again assured him I knew nothing of sickness or medicine.
+He told me he knew better, and bade me come along without delay. There
+was no resisting his will, and I armed myself accordingly with the
+"ticking machine," and followed my master on my first professional
+visit. On approaching the widow's lodge, our ears were greeted with a
+hideous clamor, which momentarily increased as we neared the spot. A
+great crowd of Indians, of both sexes, surrounded the wigwam, severally
+and collectively making the most villanous noise ever heard. The crowd
+was dense, both within and without, but gave way for the chief and the
+great foreign physician to enter. The first order I gave was to stop
+their singing, whereat there was a silence so blank that the fall of a
+pin would have been audible,--that is, if there had been a floor for it
+to fall upon. With what dignity I could command, I walked up to my
+patient. There she lay, crouched on a bit of horse's skin, so withered,
+shrivelled and contracted, that it seemed as if a bushel-basket might
+have covered her, bed and all. I knelt by her side, drew forth the
+watch, grasped her by the wrist, and felt for her pulse. But, to my
+surprise, I could not feel it. I fussed and fumbled a long time, and
+finally arrived at the mortifying conclusion that I was so ignorant as
+not to know the position of the artery! The patient was frightened at
+so unprecedented a proceeding; but I succeeded in quieting her fears,
+though not, alas! in counting her pulse. However, it occurred to me that
+it was all one whether I did or not; so, keeping up an imperturbable
+gravity becoming my office, I continued for some time to look wisely at
+the watch, holding her wrist in profound silence. When I judged that a
+due impression had been produced on the awe-stricken spectators, I
+ventured to prescribe, not a clay plaster, for the patient was dirty
+enough, in all conscience; nor yet any compound of drugs, for I had none
+to administer; and as to roots and herbs, I durst not inflict upon her
+stomach substances of unknown properties; but, after a little thought, I
+ordered some water heated blood-warm, and the patient to be washed, and
+thoroughly scrubbed, from head to foot. This, I thought, met the most
+obvious indications of her case, as I doubt not a whole college of
+physicians, upon a superficial view, would have unanimously agreed.
+There could not have been a doubt as to the novelty of the prescription;
+the respectable relict, it is safe to say, had never been washed so
+thoroughly from infancy to that hour. Minute directions were given for
+the bath, that the scrubbing should be particularly smart and thorough.
+She was furthermore put upon a strict diet, excluding _grease_ and all
+such luxuries, and we slowly retired from the sick room.
+
+My solemnity was not affected,--far from it. Promotion from barber and
+showman to the dignity of physician to the chief, was too dangerous to
+be lightly considered. In fact, anxiety drove sleep from my eyes, and I
+fervently prayed for the recovery of the widow; fearing, from what I
+knew of the superstitions of the savages, that in case of her death I
+should be held responsible. In this particular case, as very soon
+appeared, I misjudged; but of the general principle I had startling
+confirmation.
+
+The widow was better,--my prescription worked to a charm,--but her days
+were shortened. Late one night, after we had all retired to rest, a
+ferocious-looking rascal came into the chief's lodge; he muttered a few
+words to the chief, who arose, and went with him to the front of the
+wigwam. They conversed in a low tone several minutes, and separated,
+apparently with mutual satisfaction. I sounded the chief cautiously in
+reference to the matter in hand. Calmly, and without reserve, as if it
+were a very ordinary transaction, he said that the savages wished to
+kill the widow, in order to possess themselves of her horses, which they
+wanted to eat. I asked no further questions, being fully satisfied that
+he connived at the dark deed, which was consummated without delay.
+Before this tragic result, I had taken pains to disabuse the mind of the
+chief as to my supposed medical skill, and was able to relieve myself of
+the dangerous and burdensome honor.
+
+Strange flesh was eaten by the Indians about this time; I was told it
+was _lion-meat_, but was not invited to partake of it. The same thing
+was observed several times; at times, too, when I was positive they had
+killed no wild animals without my knowledge, or which were not disposed
+of openly. The nature of my suspicions may be easily conjectured; yet I
+made no inquiries, in even the most casual manner, as to their
+disposition of their dead. It was painful to think of the atrocities,
+that were but too probably shrouded under the mystery they cast over
+these transactions. On one occasion, however, a young Indian, who could
+speak a few words of Spanish and English, told me that they had killed
+and eaten three men. Whether he meant to have me understand this as a
+singular case, or as a common action of the tribe, I do not know; I made
+no inquiries of him. In fact, the statement was volunteered by him; and
+so painful was the subject, that I left him abruptly, in the middle of a
+sentence.
+
+We again moved in a north-westerly direction, taking a goodly quantity
+of game on the route, and settled in a wretched, marshy spot. The wind
+was high, and made the tents quiver like a ship in a gale; a storm set
+in, beating through the roofs, drenching and chilling me through all the
+night. On the evening of the second day of our encampment here, an
+incident occurred which fearfully confirmed the wisdom of my decision to
+renounce all title to medical skill. As I was seated by the dying embers
+of a little fire, surrounded by our motley household, and tugging
+manfully at a bit of half-raw meat, which constituted my evening meal,
+while a large piece was in process of cooking over the fire, we were
+suddenly startled by a cry of distress, followed by the distinct alarm
+of _murder_. The chief drew back to the rear of his lodge, took down his
+cutlass, and ordered me back from the fire, which was at once
+extinguished by two of his squaws, while the other two ran to the door,
+and set up a loud, lamentable wailing. All the women throughout the camp
+were, in like manner, giving their voices to the air, and "making night
+hideous;" and not a male Indian ventured to show his head for an hour or
+more. It was to me an hour of fearful suspense, the agony of which I
+cannot describe. At last a man came and told the chief that a doctor
+had been murdered. He had visited a woman professionally, and treated
+her case with charms and spells, but his prescriptions effected no
+satisfactory result; and her husband went in a rage to his lodge, and
+stabbed him with repeated blows, to make the work of death more sure. It
+was a singular circumstance, that men capable of deliberate murder, and
+who had so recently, with the tacit or open sanction of the chief,
+strangled a woman for her horses, should have shown so much alarm at the
+cry of murder on this occasion. The victim was an enormously fat man,
+weighing, I should judge, nearly four hundred pounds. A horrible sight
+presented itself the next morning, on going out of our hut; the snow
+around the doctor's lodge was saturated with his blood. I drew back from
+the sickening spectacle, unable to look upon it with composure. Beyond
+their exhibition of stupid terror in the night, no notice was taken of
+the act; and about noon the camp broke up. We travelled till night,
+meeting with no success in the chase, and encamped on an extensive
+plain, near a good spring of water.
+
+It was an occasional diversion to watch the children at their sports, of
+which a favorite one was throwing ostriches' feet, with the sinews of
+the legs attached. The toes are cut off, and a pair of the feet are tied
+together, with a piece of sinew about a yard long. The children begin to
+practise the sport as soon as they are able to walk, and will continue
+the amusement all day; one boy throwing them into the air, and others
+throwing and hitting them as they fly, therein serving an apprenticeship
+to the grand manly accomplishment of hurling the bolas. Young Cohanaco,
+the chief's youngest son, appeared to excel all others; he was looked
+upon as a remarkably smart and very active lad; and, though he was six
+or eight years old, was not yet weaned! All the tribe fondled and
+caressed him; he would practise with the boys, often without any
+covering to his back, till excited and almost exhausted; then he would
+run into the lodge, take refreshment at his mother's breast, and
+speedily return to his sport.
+
+All this time _Holland_ was not forgotten, but the chief and his lieges
+were continually reminded of the urgent reasons for taking me there
+without delay; the presents which could only be obtained there, the
+fearful consequences of suffering me to come to harm, the great ships
+with the big guns, &c. &c., that would assuredly avenge me upon the
+whole tribe,--with what effect, beyond allaying present irritations and
+discontents that threatened me, it was impossible to determine.
+
+A novel sample of farriery offered itself to my observation one day,
+while hunting with the chief; my old horse, on a sudden, began to
+hobble, and very nearly gave out. I watched him some time, and jolted
+on, suffering somewhat from his uneven movements, but could not discern
+the occasion of the difficulty. On dismounting and examining his feet,
+nothing serious was perceptible, except that the hoofs were worse for
+wear, and broomed up a little. I remounted, and gave the poor creature a
+smart drubbing, to overtake his owner, if possible, and consult him on
+the case, which was one wherein I was content to defer to his wiser
+judgment. Sufficient steam was raised to bring us abreast of the chief,
+who, on hearing what was the matter, put spurs to his horse, and told
+me to come on--"Bueno caballo, se campo, campo." I tried to comply, but
+it was hard starting the beast, though I used up considerable wood to
+that end. The chief having got far in advance, and finding me
+desperately in arrears, hove to, and waited for me. I toiled on, and
+succeeded in working a passage to his position. He dismounted, inspected
+the horse's feet, and, directing me to wait his return, rode off. He
+soon re�ppeared with a piece of guanaco-skin, which he tied securely
+about the hoof of the lame foot. I expressed some surprise at this
+method of shoeing horses; but he said, "Buenos zapatos,"--good
+shoes,--and the event confirmed his words. The lameness nearly
+disappeared, and we jogged on together without any further trouble.
+
+While at this camping-ground, the chief one morning arose in a towering
+passion at some words let fall by one of his wives, and exhibited
+another sample of the rigor of matrimonial discipline, very similar to
+that which graced the nuptials of his daughter. He gave her a tremendous
+beating, which seemed enough to kill her outright; but she took it very
+calmly, as a sort of necessary evil incident to the married state.
+
+Once more on the move, the squaws taking charge of the furniture and
+baggage, including the pappooses, and the men riding in advance as
+usual, to chase supplies for the larder. Game was scarce; we got a
+couple of ostriches and a skunk,--or a couple of skunks and an ostrich,
+I forget which, and it makes less difference to the reader than at the
+time it did to me. We cooked and lunched on the ground, and turned our
+faces homeward with the scanty remainder. The women were busy erecting
+the wigwams. The ground was frozen, and a large iron bolt, doubtless
+from some wreck, served as a crowbar to dig holes for the stakes. The
+encampment was on a hill-side, near a low swamp, which furnished
+abundance of water, such as it was.
+
+We had scarcely settled down, and I was dreading the stagnant monotony
+of camp life, when dulness was dispelled in a most unwelcome manner.
+Knots of Indians could be seen in murmuring conversation, whose glances
+betrayed the bent of their passions. They were again getting impatient
+of my life, and caresses and flattery were of no avail to stem the
+rising tide. On the evening of the third day, I was summoned out of the
+lodge by the chief, and followed him in silence, with a trembling
+presentiment of evil. He led me to a spot where twenty or thirty leading
+spirits in the tribe sat ranged in a circle,--the fatal ring was once
+more set to ensnare me! Once I had escaped. Was it possible to effect a
+second escape? Everything said no. The chances seemed a hundred to one
+against it. What had I left unsaid, to tempt their cupidity, to excite
+alarm, to make them value my safety or dread the effects of harming me?
+I could think of nothing, and the dismal prospect benumbed every faculty
+of my soul. But, as I entered the ominous circle, an access of fresh
+strength, the courage of desperation, enabled me to bear up with energy
+against perplexity and fear; to resolve that I would meet them with a
+steadfast eye and an inflexible mind,--a force which, though springing
+out of weakness, should prove stronger than their utmost malice.
+
+Having seated myself near the chief, the consultation began and
+proceeded much as before, but with increased vehemence. Their
+demonstrations were alarming, but, to my joy, the chief took the same
+view as in the former council. Would he be able to restrain their savage
+tempers? His power was great, but there was a limit to its effect, and I
+feared. In my turn I sought to enforce his views, by arraying all the
+motives invention could produce, and was able to perceive that they had
+some weight. Again the matter was canvassed around the ring. There was a
+hesitation, as if they felt suspicious and unsatisfied. Then they began
+to cross-examine me; my promises were not explicit enough. What did I
+mean to give them? The answer did not content them; they wanted more.
+More or less made no difference to me, and I gave them assurance of all
+the good things they craved, when we should arrive at _Holland_. Another
+talk followed, and brought them to a pretty unanimous conclusion, that
+they would get the presents first, and _decide my fate afterwards_;--a
+"squeeze-your-orange-and-throw-it-away" policy, in which these rascals
+seemed to be remarkable adepts.
+
+The natives had no idea that I could understand their talk, and I was
+not at all eager to display my acquisitions. In fact, though unable to
+speak their jargon, my ear had become pretty well trained to interpret
+it, while my scraps of half Spanish enabled me, without suspicion, to
+hear, mark and digest, much of their conversation. This was, in part,
+acquired in teaching some of them, the youth especially, to speak
+English and to count,--a pursuit in which I engaged partly for their
+benefit, and partly for my own. Besides aiding me in learning their
+language, it tended, so far as it diverted their attention, to keep
+mischief out of their heads, after the manner in which constant
+employment maintains order in a ship's crew. It added to my knowledge
+of their character and ways of thinking, so that, in dangerous
+emergencies, I was able to detect the first symptoms of evil. More than
+once it enabled me to elude or to nip in the bud dangerous conspiracies,
+which, if they had gone further, might have proved fatal to me.
+Circumspection made self-possession more easy. I will confess--though
+the narrative may have made confession needless--that I am naturally
+timid, and inclined to the better part of valor. Yet somehow--God
+helping me--I early learned to hide my constitutional timidity under a
+show of fearlessness, even in circumstances of great peril. More than
+once, when a savage drew his knife at me, have I looked him in the eye
+and disarmed him by a laugh; perhaps laying hold of the instrument of
+death, trying its edge and praising its qualities, till its owner was
+shamed into quiet. One piece of English that tickled the chief was the
+title of "Old Boy," with which (from a conviction of its
+appropriateness) I early honored him, and which he appeared to relish as
+much as if I had called him "His Majesty."
+
+The council, to my great relief, at length broke up, and I returned to
+my wretched shelter. The chief pointed to my bed, and bade me lie down.
+I complied, not to sleep, but to adore the Providence that had twice
+rescued me as from the very jaws of death, to reflect on the past and to
+speculate on the future. The excitement of the evening kept me wakeful,
+and the night wore away and the morning dawned, without sleep for a
+moment visiting my eyes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists.
+
+
+From this point we moved again in a north-westerly direction, finding
+game more plenty, and among other animals captured a species of fox, the
+first I had seen in the country. The camping-ground selected was a waste
+more desolate than had yet greeted my sight, even in Patagonia,--a low
+marsh, surrounded by sand-hills destitute of even the semblance or
+vestige of vegetation, past or present. The horses were let loose to
+solve the problem of existence as they could, while my landladies, with
+their canine assistants, served up a skunk and two ostrich-legs for
+supper. I thought myself fortunate at getting so ample a meal, having
+been on short allowance the preceding day.
+
+Here a new torture was inflicted. There had been abundance of voluble
+hatred against me, as I had too good reason to know, but it was around
+and behind me. Now, presuming, doubtless, on my ignorance of their
+language, they came to utter their bloodthirsty thoughts in my presence.
+At night, before retiring, the women began to talk against me, as
+usual; which never gave me much uneasiness, female opinion not having
+much force, I suspected, in affairs of state. Two of them had always
+appeared to bear me a mortal grudge, for what cause I could not
+conjecture, unless they thought I took up too much of his highness'
+time, or exerted too much influence over him. But, on the present
+occasion, the conference was enlarged by the entrance of two or three
+visitors, whose only errand seemed to be to give the chief gratuitous
+advice touching the disposal of my person. Though perfectly
+comprehending the drift of their remarks, I looked as stupid as
+possible, and bent myself to caress and flatter the old fellow with more
+than common servility;--patting his breast, telling him what a big, good
+heart it contained, calling him my _compadre_, and myself his child, his
+_piconine_, his _muchacho_. So deep was my abasement! To talk of the
+goodness of a heart beating with cruelty and black with crime! To call
+that black, greasy, depraved monster my father, and myself his dutiful
+and affectionate son! It is humiliating to speak of this;--what, let the
+reader imagine, must it have been to feel it! The bruised reed was
+well-nigh broken. The courage that sustained me in sharp trials was
+frittered away piecemeal by incessant irritation. Hope, that kept me
+from fainting in the fatal ring, vanished with the occasion that invoked
+it, and a bitter, consuming despair hovered over me. Then came dark and
+distracting thoughts of home, now more distant than ever, to stab my
+heart, already faint and bleeding. Again was sleep driven from me, but
+the night passed, and the blessed light of day stole upon me, as with a
+benediction from heaven.
+
+I arose and rushed into the open air to warm myself by exercise, and
+when the fire was lighted comforted myself by its kindly heat, and
+recovered a measure of buoyancy. But the day was wearily spent, and
+night brought the merciless gossips once more into the lodge. The two
+squaws led off with words of the most fiendish hate, urging that I
+should be summarily despatched, and gloating over anticipated vengeance.
+Tempestuous thoughts and sleepless hours had weakened me in body and
+mind. The fall of successive drops of water will madden the stoutest
+brain, and the drop too much had now lighted on my head. I was frenzied;
+strong passions, hitherto held in check, overmastered me. I rose, threw
+my cap violently on the ground, stamped, gnashed my teeth, and cursed
+without restraint. I shook my fists at them, defied their malice, and
+raved for several minutes, reckless of consequences. What was life to
+me? They were killing me by inches. Let them do their worst, no matter
+how soon. The chief was at first startled at such an explosion, and sat
+looking fixedly upon me, with a dark and clouded brow. It was fortunate
+that my rage was too impetuous to be contained within the bounds of my
+Indian-Spanish vocabulary, but breathed itself in good strong Saxon, so
+that speech could not betray me. For no sooner had the internal pressure
+been measurably relieved, than a sudden consciousness of error--fatal
+error--smote me with a new dread. What had I done? Where were my wits,
+that I should thus toss away life to gratify impotent anger? If my
+chance of life was worth little to myself, was it worth nothing to
+others, that I should so trifle with it? With returning sanity of
+feeling came also a hint of the way to repair my wrong. Without waiting
+for any questions or wordy explanations, I looked piteously at the
+chief, pointed to my head, and assured him it was disordered. I could
+not help my actions. I was sorry to make such an exhibition of myself,
+but it was all my poor head; and holding on to the poor head with one
+hand, I beat it reproachfully with the other, at the same time giving
+vent to some unearthly noises by way of corroboration. The old fellow
+looked rather dubiously at this change of scene, and asked if it was at
+them I shook my fists?--At them? No, no! they did not understand me. My
+heart was good, like his, but it was all my head, my poor naughty
+_cabeza_. Another thump on my cranium, and a second edition of the howl,
+proved sufficient. The plea of insanity was admitted; he expressed
+himself satisfied, and explained the incident to the amazed spectators.
+I drew a long breath with a returning sense of security, scarcely
+crediting the success of the artifice, and almost doubting whether the
+whole scene were not a dream. Real or unreal, it was over, and things
+were apparently on their former footing. Only my feminine foes would not
+be convinced, and added this crowning indiscretion to the list of my
+offences.
+
+We moved the next day in a northerly direction, and struck the river
+Santa Cruz, encamping about an eighth of a mile from its marshy banks,
+which, at this point, were bent in a broad, horse-shoe curve. We were
+surrounded, except on the river side, by high abrupt sand-banks, covered
+in part by underbrush of a stunted growth. The river was narrow, but
+deep and rapid. The Indians said it was the Santa Cruz, and that it led
+directly to "Holland;" but their lies about that same Dutch land had
+long since destroyed all faith in their words. That it was the Santa
+Cruz was probable, for I knew of no other river in these parts;--we had
+passed Corey Inlet and the Gallegos. The rest of the story I could only
+_try_ to credit. I tried to urge them on, but they were not to be
+hurried. Some of them grumbled that I had no intention of giving them
+anything, but meant to slip from them the first opportunity. No wonder
+they thought so; they certainly had not laid me under very great
+obligations of gratitude. What on earth they wanted of me, unless to fat
+and eat me, was past conjecture; and my fare had not been of a nature to
+induce corpulence, so that this supposition was not trustworthy. They
+_said_ they wanted me to help steal horses. They were bound for the Rio
+Negro, where they meant to steal seven hundred horses, of which number I
+was to get two. Certainly, I told them, it would be just the thing; and
+that was a most excellent reason for going to "Holland." They would find
+me a rare thief; but, however it might be with them, _I_ could not steal
+without a good stock of rum and tobacco. Was I insincere in all this?
+The reader may smile or may frown, but it was my purpose, if I failed to
+escape by way of "Holland," to humor them to the top of their bent; to
+ride, hunt, and even _steal_ my way into their confidence;--any way to
+insure present safety, and keep an eye open for future opportunities.
+
+Three or four days were passed in suspense, which was at last terminated
+by taking our line of march down the river. We halted at noon, at a
+point where the banks sloped gently to the water's edge, on either side
+of the deep and narrow channel. Active preparations were here commenced
+for crossing. Part of the horses were driven across the river, whilst a
+portion of the tribe were occupied in building boats to ferry their
+families and goods across. Their boats are constructed after a simple
+fashion. A quantity of bushes are cut and dragged down to the margin of
+the water. They take four tent-stakes, and lay them so as to enclose an
+area eight feet square, lashing them firmly together at the four
+corners. Four Indians then raise the stakes from the ground, while
+others place the skin covering of the tent over the frame, allowing it
+to sag down three or four feet. The edges of the skin are brought over
+the stakes, and fastened on the inside. The bushes, made ready for the
+purpose, are placed within, tops downward, round the entire
+circumference, and secured to the stakes, till the boat is completely
+timbered up. The bushes keep the skin distended, and give to the vessel
+an oval shape, so that, though square at the top, it bears a striking
+resemblance to a large iron pot. Its length and its breadth of beam are
+of course equal. When completed, it is firmly lashed from stem to
+sternpost, and from side to side, with a lariat, or green hide rope,
+forty feet long, to keep it from spreading or racking. I had no hand in
+modelling this witch of the wave, but, like an apprentice, did as I was
+ordered in forwarding the structure, and, when nothing else was
+required, "held on to the slack." It was at last completed, like the
+temple of Solomon, without the sound of axe or hammer; neither bolts,
+trenails nor caulking-iron, were required. We carried the barge down,
+and launched her in the stream. Two paddles were made by lashing two
+bladebones of the guanaco to sticks. Squaws, pappooses and baggage, were
+stowed away, till the boat was laden to the water's edge. I was directed
+to take passage with the family and household effects of the chief, and
+seated myself in the centre of the closely-packed craft. One end of a
+lariat was fastened to the boat, and the other tied to the tail of a
+horse. A savage mounted, with one rein attached to the wooden bit on the
+up-stream side. Two others took the oars, one on each side, and a squaw
+was stationed on the top-gallant forecastle for the purpose of singing,
+to insure good luck. All is ready. The old horse wades till the depth of
+water compels him to swim, and the boat is pushed off. The rider floats
+on the horse's back, kicking the water with his feet, holding the rein
+in one hand, and grasping the mane with the other. "Chew! chew!" he
+shouts, at the top of his voice. The black swan in the forecastle opens
+her capacious mouth and sings, "Yek yah, youri miti! yek yah, youri
+miti!" The two oarsmen dig away with might and main, while the younger
+fry swell the chorus with a "Yah! yah! yah!" The boat brings some heavy
+lurches to the windward, then yaws off to leeward; all owing to those
+lubberly oarsmen not meeting her with the helm in season. At length,
+after innumerable shiftings, we reached the opposite shore, and waded up
+on dry land.
+
+[Illustration: FERRYING THE SANTA CRUZ.]
+
+Several boats were constructed after the same unique model, and
+succeeded in crossing safely. Some of the horses, being better adapted
+to towing, were swam back to repeat the process, and our craft returned
+for a second freight. I watched the proceedings from the bank with
+intense interest, speculating on the probable consequences of an
+accident to any of the fleet. Such was their superstition, that, in the
+event of any ill befalling them, they would be quite likely to ascribe
+it to me, and serve me worse than Jonah was treated by his shipmates.
+The swiftness of the current, and the rudeness of their navigation,
+made them so liable to mischief, that it seemed wise to prepare for it;
+and I at once began ingratiating myself with two of the worst fellows in
+the whole tribe, by professions of special good will and admiration for
+them, and confidential hints that they would share more liberally in the
+bounties of "Holland" than any of their fellows. Whilst thus engaged,
+with cautious glances across the river, to make sure that all was right,
+I perceived that there was quite a commotion among the people below;
+some were springing upon their horses,--others, ready mounted, were
+dashing furiously down the bank. On looking some distance below, a boat
+appeared to be in distress; the lariat that bound it together had
+snapped asunder, and the pressure within, and the strain of the horse
+without, had broken the front stake; the horse, relieved of his freight,
+pulled for the shore, and could neither be coaxed nor beaten into a
+return to duty. The horsemen on the banks dashed into the stream, and
+swam for the wreck, which contained, among other passengers, a young
+child. It was already filled with water, and was partially turned on her
+side. The surface of the river was dotted with dark forms, struggling
+with the mad current; one horseman after another each grasped a floating
+object, and made for the shore. The craft had drifted nearly half a
+mile, and nothing could be made out very distinctly. The squaws, on
+first perceiving the mischance, watched the wreck, and sung in a loud
+and plaintive strain, all the while casting unfriendly glances at me,
+and gradually approaching the place where I stood. My apprehensions were
+so far confirmed by this movement, that I told John (the name I gave one
+of my present particular friends), as he loved rum and tobacco, and
+expected to get any, not to leave me. John saw at a glance what was in
+the wind, and appreciated both the immediate danger and the ultimate
+reward of averting it; namely, the privilege of being gloriously drunk
+at my expense. He told me to go into his hut, and pointed me to the
+furthest corner; where, I being duly ensconced, he took his station,
+cutlass in hand, directly in front of me. The singing grew louder, and
+the voices more numerous about the door; the song was their regular
+powwow strain, which invariably preluded the killing of a horse. The
+Indians began to enter the lodge, and looked unutterable things in the
+direction where I was crouching; the wigwam was soon filled with them,
+and they were beginning to crowd towards me, when old John opened upon
+them, and told them they ought to be ashamed of themselves, to come in
+there in that manner; they did not even know what had happened,--they
+did not know whether any lives were lost. They were threatening on
+account of the death of a child, when, for aught they knew, the child
+was alive; they had better wait patiently, till they knew more about the
+matter, before they made any further uproar about it. In this strain he
+parleyed with them for some time, till they concluded to retire,
+uttering, as they went, the most horrible sounds. I felt less relief
+from their absence than if John had not, by implication, fully assented
+that _if_ the brat was drowned, my life should answer for it. News soon
+came that the children were all safe, but that the boat was lost.
+
+An instant change ensued: the fire appeared to be quenched, but I feared
+it might break out at any moment afresh. Knowing their treachery, I kept
+a pretty suspicious watch on their movements; the chief soon came over
+the river, hurried, perhaps, in his movements by the accident, which he
+had witnessed from the opposite shore. After conferring with John, and
+giving him some instructions, and seeing that all was right, he
+re�mbarked for the other shore, as he made it his special business to
+see that all were passed across in safety. The ferrying ceased as night
+came on; the chief was likely to be on the opposite side all night, as
+there was a good day's work yet to be done before the whole would be
+transported. I had overheard him giving special orders to keep a good
+look-out on me during the night. I felt, however, some uneasiness in his
+absence; he had been my most powerful protector, having twice, at least,
+saved me from imminent death.
+
+I now began to revolve in my mind the possibility of escape; the thought
+suggested itself that I might steal one of their boats, and drift down
+the stream. I was long since heartily tired of captivity; my situation,
+especially if I was to be held a hostage of Providence for the safe
+ferriage of the tribe, was desperate. But, on second thought, I did not
+know that this was certainly the Santa Cruz; if it was, I was
+furthermore ignorant of our distance from the sea. I knew of no white
+settlement on or near the river; none, I remembered, was laid down in
+the chart; if such a settlement existed, I might hope to reach it in a
+_boat_, but a voyage in such a craft as one of these would be as
+hazardous as that of the wise men of Gotham. If there was no such
+settlement, and "Holland" was Patagonian for Utopia, my only chance,
+short of drifting in my leathern sack out to sea, would be to land on
+some island, in case an island there were; and then what should I live
+on, after landing? Berries I had never seen, except once or twice.
+Besides, my stolen craft could not be _paddled_,--the Indians had too
+good ears for that; I must follow the channel passively, through all its
+course, which was terribly crooked, while its rapidity increased the
+risk that the ungainly vehicle would be disabled. On the whole, it was
+so doubtful whether I could reach any particular place, or escape
+starvation after I got there, and so certain that failure would be
+death, the project seemed a forlorn hope. But then, again, it was not
+more forlorn than my present situation; so my poor mind vibrated between
+dangers,--the danger of remaining where I was,--the danger that I should
+escape only from the frying-pan into the fire. At last, as I _felt_ the
+frying-pan, and only _feared_ the fire, I concluded to try.
+
+Crawling as noiselessly as possible from my resting-place, I stole
+softly out, and made for the river. Alack! in calculating the chances, I
+had not once thought of four-footed enemies, and they were upon me
+before I was halfway to the shore,--a half-dozen dogs, barking loud
+enough to wake the whole encampment. I retreated incontinently to the
+lodge, and succeeded in getting quietly into my quarters again, not
+without some inward spasms. It was all for the best, no doubt, but it
+was not, just then, easy to think so, or _possible_ to _feel_ so; and,
+therefore, after a little time, I once more emerged from the lodge, and
+stole towards the river by a different track, hoping to elude those
+infernal dogs; but they, or some others, were on the alert, and came
+pell-mell upon my rear, barking more uproariously than before. I cursed
+the dogs, their masters, and my own folly, and gave up the attempt.
+
+The ferrying recommenced the next morning; and before night the whole
+tribe were safely landed, with their effects, on the west side of the
+river, and their wigwams were all pitched. We were short of provisions;
+but this was a common case, and I was accustomed to it. I got an
+occasional morsel of grease, sufficient to keep starvation at bay; but
+illness, with bad and insufficient food, had greatly emaciated me, till
+I was a spectacle but few degrees above the living skeleton. But hope
+was still in the ascendant, and I had no idea of lying down to die till
+I was quite sure my time had come. We continued our wanderings the next
+day in a westerly direction, slaying every living creature that came
+within reach, from a skunk to a guanaco. This was a great
+disappointment, as I hoped we should go down the river, the direction in
+which they said "Holland" lay, and the only direction in which we were
+likely to strike a white settlement, if any existed on the Atlantic
+coast. But my remonstrances on this head were vain; they would go where
+they pleased, and I must go with them. Time dragged heavily; hours
+seemed days, and days weeks. But impatience is no virtue, and submission
+was imperative.
+
+The country hereabout was more broken and mountainous than any we had
+before traversed, with a more abundant growth of bushes, and some clumps
+of stunted trees here and there. As we proceeded, keeping still to the
+north-west, game was more plenty. We came to two ponds, or small lakes,
+one of not more than four acres in extent, the other considerably
+larger; the latter was shallow, at least near the shore, as some
+ostriches pursued by the Indians ran into it, and their pursuers waded
+after, and succeeded in capturing them.
+
+At one time I observed a large scar in the calf of the chief's leg; the
+mark of a wound that must have been inflicted a long time before, as it
+was completely healed. Its depression was so great as to indicate a very
+severe cut, unless the old fellow had grown uncommonly fat since he
+received it. On inquiring the cause of it, he said it was from a wound
+inflicted by the Alanagros, a tribe inhabiting a country to the
+northward. The name he gave them signifies the blacks; and, from the
+manner in which he spoke of them, I inferred they were in some respects
+superior to the Patagonians. He said they were armed with cutlasses, and
+very long knives,--had tobacco, and plenty of horses; and I conjectured
+that they might have been a party of Spanish Americans, or one of the
+mixed races of Spanish origin. The fight, he said, arose on occasion of
+his tribe being on a horse-stealing expedition; they encamped a short
+distance off, and at night he made a descent on the Alanagros, killed
+some of them, and plundered their camp, carrying off many of their
+horses. The plundered tribe rallied, hotly pursued them, and recaptured
+a part of the booty; in the struggle wounding him with a cutlass, and,
+as I judged by appearances, cutting to the bone. He told the story with
+great spirit, slashing right and left, and grunting with extraordinary
+emphasis, as if to give an impression that good hard blows were given
+and taken: but I afterwards learned that it was a cowardly running
+fight, in which more sweat than blood was spilled.
+
+Nothing of importance occurred at our encampment near the lakes,
+except--what was a very noteworthy fact with me--such an abundance of
+ostrich that I was surfeited with the delicious fare, and was compelled
+by the chief to take a horse-rein emetic,--a more precise description of
+which the reader will have no difficulty in excusing. Had I not so
+completely disavowed the medical character, the chief might probably
+have allowed me to feel my own pulse,--if I could find it,--and to
+prescribe for myself; but the renunciation of professional honors
+brought me under the sanitary, as well as the political, jurisdiction of
+Parosilver.
+
+Our line of march was now in a northerly direction, soon deflecting to
+the eastward,--a movement that revived my sinking hopes. There seemed to
+be some prospect of striking the Atlantic coast, and coming within reach
+of civilized men. On our way we observed the tracks of some animals
+different from any I had met with. The chief said it was the _limerer_,
+with which lucid definition I was fain to be content; and, as no
+specimens were visible, the inquisitive naturalist must trust to his
+imagination for the rest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia.
+
+
+My hopes were soon cast down, by a decided movement to the westward.
+Every step, I was convinced, lengthened the distance between me and the
+spot where my most earnest wishes centred; for, though I knew not of any
+settlements in this barren region, yet it was pretty certain that if
+there was one it must be sought in the line of the Santa Cruz. Of our
+latitude and longitude I could form no decisive judgment; but by the aid
+of the sun, of which occasional glimpses were caught, it was easy to
+take note of our direction, and I never retired to rest without taking
+landmarks, and satisfying myself as nearly as possible as to our
+whereabouts. At night there was a renewal of the discussions which had
+once so nearly turned my brain, and now at times came near verifying the
+plea which then saved me from destruction; but I was enabled to keep my
+feelings in more equal check. Disappointed and care-worn, I spent the
+night in commending myself to the mercy and good providence of God,
+praying that he would soften the heart of the savage and open a way of
+deliverance.
+
+Among other matters that excited my curiosity, I was anxious to know
+whether the Indians were expert swimmers. The only occasion on which I
+had seen them attempt it was at the time of the accident in crossing the
+river. Then two of them swam across, while the others floated on their
+horses' backs, clinging to the mane. In answer to some questions dropped
+on the subject, the chief assured me that they were all expert swimmers,
+and could stretch off a long distance without resting, as they would
+show me, but that the coldness of the season made the experiment too
+unpleasant. Others of the tribe told the same story. The question was
+interesting, for obvious reasons. I had thought a time might come when
+it would be a very practical one.
+
+Some new specimens of birds made their appearance from time to time. One
+was a large black bird, resembling the turkey-buzzard, and subsisting on
+carrion. Another resembled the snow-birds of the north. I had also seen,
+near the sea-shore and by the lakes, several species of water-fowl,--one
+not unlike the wild goose, but the chief said they were not good for
+food.
+
+Our course, the next day, was northward, and the day following turned
+once more decidedly towards the east, whereat my hopes, varying with the
+compass, began to revive, though their buoyancy was tempered by
+experience of the uncertainty of Indian movements. Observing a spot
+covered with small trees, over which a great number of carrion birds
+hovered, we approached and found the carcass of a poor old guanaco,
+which had most likely paid the debt of nature without compulsion, and
+was stripped of its flesh by the birds. The chief broke some of the
+bones and eagerly sucked the marrow, and then picked up the remainder to
+add to the domestic stock of grease.
+
+At the close of the next day we brought up at a ravine, and found our
+camp by following it a short distance to a low flat. Proceeding to the
+eastward all the next day, we ascended a high eminence, from which the
+chief pointed in a south-westerly direction, and said that "Holland" lay
+_there_. I strained my eyes in the quarter indicated, without, however,
+making any discoveries, and with a strong disposition to think the Old
+Boy was hoaxing me. At dark we defiled down a steep declivity, and
+pitched our tents on the border of an extensive marsh covered with ice.
+Here I renewed my arguments for speeding our way to the promised land,
+dilating on the qualities of the promised rum in a style that would have
+astonished the advocates of the Maine liquor law, and impaired the
+confidence of those who had reasonably regarded me as a strict
+temperance man. Indeed, the antics and grimace with which I enforced the
+description, and illustrated the jovial effects of the creature,--the
+boasts of how I would teach them, by its aid, to throw the lasso, and
+perform most astonishing feats of horse-stealing and riding,--might have
+induced a suspicion that I knew more of it than mere observation or
+fancy could teach. But, however it may affect my reader, it produced
+unmistakable contentment and satisfaction to my Patagonian auditors; and
+that was what I aimed at. They looked and listened with watering mouths
+and hoarse laughter, giving token that the balmy description was
+appreciated to a most desirable degree. So evident was the impression
+that I spent the next day running about and giving line upon line to
+the most influential of the tribe, and succeeded, as I thought, in
+awakening a degree of enthusiasm to move towards the place where all
+these good things were to be got. In confirmation of this, I had the
+satisfaction of being called at night to attend a solemn council.
+
+It was a peaceful gathering,--they left their weapons behind,--but it
+contemplated only a sort of preliminary inquiry; the Patagonians know
+how to make their forms of procedure as tedious as any of our courts of
+law, summary as are many of their dealings. They examined and
+cross-examined very strictly, sifting my story with a severity which
+showed that they were in earnest, and at the same time a little
+suspicious. It was necessary to be on my guard at all points; and if
+they had been more docile learners of arithmetic, and able to stick on
+questions of number and quantity, it might have been a harder matter to
+satisfy them. But, on the whole, the old story was stuck to with a
+degree of consistency that produced the desired effect. Their confidence
+was perceptibly raised, and, after a good deal of talk, the council
+adjourned, every one more than ever disposed to visit "Holland."
+
+While at this encampment, I observed on the ground about a dozen large
+oyster-shells, that appeared to have been recently opened. These were
+the first and only shells of the kind I saw in the country. I inquired
+if they were plenty in that vicinity. They said they were not; none of
+the tribe seemed to know where they came from, or anything about them.
+The chief said that he and his people did not relish oysters, but other
+Indians ate them. He did not like fish of any kind; no fish had grease
+enough for them; none of _his_ Indians ate fish. This, and some similar
+incidents and conversations, convinced me that there were other Indian
+tribes in the vicinity. On one occasion I had noticed some places where
+a tribe, probably as numerous as our own, had encamped. Their fires
+appeared to have been very recently extinguished. Our tribe appeared to
+be considerably disturbed at these discoveries, and I judged that they
+were the traces of some enemies. It is certain that my captors had seen
+some desperate fights, of which they bore the marks on their persons.
+One of them had a deep scar on his breast, which he said was the mark of
+an arrow-shot received from the _"Yamaschoner"_ Indians, a tribe that
+use the bow and arrow. His description suggested the probability that
+these were the Terra-del-Fuego Indians; but, on mentioning the
+conjecture at a later period to a person I met at the Chilian penal
+settlement, he informed me that those islanders invariably shoot
+_poisoned_ arrows, which would not leave the victim much leisure to
+describe their effect. The scar in question was a deep one, in the
+region of the heart; and while I was examining it, the chief remarked
+that the arrow passed through his body and came out at his back. On
+examination, a distinct scar was visible on his back, so far
+corresponding in form and direction with the one in front, that it
+seemed likely to have been made by the same weapon. But how the arrow
+could have transfixed him through the chest, without wounding the vital
+organs, was not easily to be conjectured. The only explanation I could
+conceive of was, that the fellow's heart was so much harder than any
+material used for arrowheads, that the missile, instead of penetrating
+that important organ, had glanced aside and passed without mortal hurt.
+Enough had been developed to assure me that the tribe generally had
+hearts of no ordinary toughness, capable of serving them for all
+practical purposes wherein impenetrable stuff was in request; but the
+tale of this miraculous escape gave a new impression of obduracy, and
+entitled the hero to bear the palm among his fellows. I pretended to
+pity him for his former sufferings, and went so far as to volunteer--in
+case I should ever be permitted to enter the enemy's territory--to make
+mince-meat of some of them, and so to avenge his cruel injuries. This
+spontaneous sympathy and forwardness to take up his quarrel was
+exceedingly gratifying to the sufferer and to the chief, and drew from
+them a more particular narrative of the combat.
+
+They were out on a horse-stealing expedition,--the usual occasion, it
+seems, of Patagonian fights,--and made a swoop upon the camp of another
+tribe. The objects of this felonious invasion asserted title to the
+horses in their possession by certain tangible arguments, and induced a
+mortal combat. And now Old Boy waxed eloquent, and especially displayed
+that prime ingredient, "action." His broad-sword exercise was really
+animated, and taught us "how fields were won,"--or would have done so,
+but that, while his right hand was slashing the air with his good steel,
+his left _would_ hold the bridle-rein, and his heels involuntarily drive
+the spur;--in short, though it was a part on which he did not linger in
+the narration any more than in the act, there was some tall running on
+the occasion. So artlessly was the tale told, that while the hero was
+cutting and thrusting and grunting, to make due impression of the
+desperate bravery displayed in the encounter, his subordinate action
+clearly depicted a running and retreating fight, and convinced me that
+they got a sound drubbing for their pains. He said he killed one Indian,
+with an air that would have done justice to the slaying of a regiment.
+Shocking to relate, there were found persons who slanderously reported
+to me that Old Boy's legs had the unhappy propensity of Pat
+O'Flaherty's, whose heart was as brave as any man's, but his cowardly
+legs ran away with his body; and they scrupled not to affirm that in
+this same hard-fought battle he crawled into the bushes, and there
+secreted himself till the cessation of hostilities enabled him to rejoin
+his tribe.
+
+The reader has doubtless noticed that "the tribe" has been all along
+anonymous. The explanation comes rather late, but, in point of fact, I
+never could learn that they had any distinctive name; they never used
+any. Indeed proper names were very seldom heard. Even in conversation
+concerning each other, they managed to avoid "naming names" as strictly
+as so many honorable senators, though for no reason that I could
+discover. By signs and gestures, and other hints, they indicated the
+personal subject of remark, and seemed to suffer no inconvenience from
+what would be felt among us as a serious want.
+
+While out hunting one day with the chief, we ascended a slight eminence,
+commanding a view of an extensive plain. The chief suddenly stopped his
+horse, and looked steadily forward. I bent my eyes in the same
+direction, and saw two or three mounted Indians moving towards a common
+point. There was nothing unusual to be seen, but Old Boy seemed to
+discover something. I inquired what it was. He answered by pointing;
+and, on a second view, I observed a horse loose, which I took to be that
+of some Indian temporarily dismounted. But the chief said they were
+about to catch a wild horse, and forthwith dashed off at a furious rate,
+bidding me follow. We were rapidly nearing the spot, when the two in
+advance of us put their horses at top speed towards the lone horse that
+was standing beside a clump of bushes. It suddenly ran before its
+pursuers, followed by two colts from the thicket. The colts appeared to
+be one or two years old, and were doubtless following their dam. One
+Indian singled out the mare, and another the larger colt. The little one
+did not lag behind. The chief and myself followed at a pace which would
+have made a single misstep fatal to our necks; but fortunately our
+horses proved sure-footed. On we dashed, helter-skelter, in a direction
+to head off the pursuers, and to place ourselves nearest to the
+affrighted animals. The mare yet holds the lead, and fairly tears up the
+soil with her flashing hoofs. An Indian, in close pursuit, presently
+swings his lariat about his head; but she makes a curve in her course,
+and springs beyond the reach of his aim. Her pursuer once more gains on
+her; again the lariat swings through the air,--he lets go,--the noose
+catches her neck,--the hunter's horse turns suddenly off, and the rope,
+securely attached to the saddle, brings the poor captive headlong to the
+ground. The trained horse keeps a strain on the noose sufficient to
+prevent her from rising, while the hunter dismounts and secures his
+prize. The colts shared the same fate, and, with the mother, were
+subdued and made useful to the tribe.
+
+The scenes and reminiscences I have described did not prevent the matter
+of most absorbing interest to myself--the projected visit to
+"Holland"--from engaging due attention. The chief came home from the
+council full of it. He was in royal good humor, and talked about it half
+the night; but several objections arose, which it was necessary for me
+to dispose of. These were met, apparently to his full satisfaction. One
+of the most serious was the fear that the white men would revenge upon
+him the murder of Captain Eaton. I assured him that so long as I was
+with him he had nothing to fear on that score; the people were all mine,
+and would do, or refrain from doing, whatever I should bid them. They
+would not dare to lift their hands against him contrary to my orders, or
+refuse to deliver what articles I chose to demand. Nothing, I found,
+would do, but the assertion of absolute supremacy over all white men
+whatever, the world around; less than this would not secure the
+confidence of these savages, and I regulated my speech by the
+necessities of the case. The chief inquired, half a dozen times over,
+what I would say to the white men, and I as often rehearsed an address
+for the occasion. At last his curiosity seemed abated, and we fell
+asleep.
+
+Early the next morning we were up and stirring, and the chief having
+adjusted his toilet with care, a slight breakfast was made ready. This
+over, his highness stood forth, and from the door of his lodge made an
+official address to the tribe, wherein he set out the advantages of a
+visit to "Holland," and suggested the most expedient style of making it.
+He advised that a few only of the tribe should be deputed, with himself,
+to accompany me, and receive the stores of rum, tobacco, bread, rice,
+tea, butter, beads, brass, copper, and so forth, that were to be
+forthcoming, as the expression of my gratitude for the distinguished
+consideration with which they had treated me. Though royal speeches
+seldom excite any jealousy of plagiarism, and it may seem a little
+captious on my part to make such a charge, it is due to "the truth of
+history" to declare, that herein the great Parosilver did but repeat a
+suggestion which he did me the honor to receive with favor over-night.
+It was not deemed essential to the case to inform his highness of _all_
+the reasons that led me to wish for as small an escort as the nature of
+the business would admit. On the contrary, acting upon the profound
+maxim, that one _sufficient_ reason is as good as a dozen, and better
+than that number of questionable ones, I merely advised, that, after the
+experience which Captain Eaton and others had had of Patagonian prowess,
+the sight of too many of his giants would frighten away the whites, and
+prevent all beneficial communication with them; while the presence of a
+small deputation would be a pledge of their pacific inclinations. The
+speech from the throne proved less _moving_ than most of the chief's
+effusions: his lieges listened with great interest, and an earnest
+debate sprung up, at the conclusion of which it was decided that the
+chief, with four other Indians and their squaws, should be my
+body-guard, the rest of the tribe to follow after. Another old woman
+begged to go with us, which was agreed to. The horse I had been in the
+habit of riding was lame, and unfit for service; another was procured
+for me.
+
+Our simple preparations for departure were soon made, and as we were
+about to start they all began bringing their dirty children to me, and
+requesting that I would bring brass and beads for them all; which was
+gravely promised, much to their satisfaction. There remained the last
+act in the comedy for which I had been long rehearsing,--if, indeed, it
+did not turn out a tragedy. The idea had early occurred to me, that if I
+had some object to which I appeared very much attached, it might prove
+to be for my advantage; the Indians might hold it, in my absence at any
+time, as a sort of surety for my return. A belle from among the beauties
+of the tribe would be effectual to that end; but, if no sentiments of
+virtue had restrained me from this expedient, the filth and
+unsightliness of them all were enough to insure continence. I chose,
+therefore, a little white dog for a pet,--a dirty, thievish little
+rascal;--but I fondled him in the style proper to a violent attachment.
+It is true that when I saw him licking the meat designed for our repast
+it was not easy to refrain from kicking his worthless brains out; but
+this was a trifle to other things I had to endure, and I made myself
+apparently so fond of him that the reality of the case was never
+suspected. Now and then I indemnified myself by giving him, when
+unobserved, a smart rapping for his misdeeds, though such chastisement
+made but a slight impression on the object of it. As we were about
+setting out, I was asked if I intended to take my dog. No, I told them,
+he would be better off there, and when I returned he should have some
+bread and other dainties to eat. The ruse more than answered its
+expected end, in lulling all suspicion of my sincerity.
+
+At last we were under way. The grand crisis to which all my diplomacy
+and the utmost license of fiction had tended was near at hand. A strong
+hope of deliverance braced my spirits, shaded, it is true, by a natural
+apprehension of possible failure, and of the consequences that might
+follow. With no great elation of spirits, but with a stern, severe
+tension of all my mental energies, and a concentration of them into one
+focus of resolve, I waved a farewell, which I hoped might be
+everlasting, to the accursed gang of robbers who had tormented me so
+many tedious weeks. "Good-by to Patagonia!" I mentally ejaculated, and
+struck off with my escort; but had not gone more than an eighth of a
+mile, when the party wheeled about and ordered me to follow them back to
+the camp! I remonstrated, but it was of no use, and with a heavy heart I
+found myself once more in my dirty corner of a wigwam. The horses were
+turned adrift without a word of explanation, and the Indians sat down to
+a game of cards, with as much indifference to everything else as if the
+events of the past forty-eight hours had been a feverish dream. What
+could be the meaning of it? I questioned the chief. He merely replied
+that he would go by and by,--by and by; which, being interpreted,
+probably meant when he pleased, and that convenient season might never
+arrive! After I had teased him for a long time he took me to the door of
+the lodge, and, pointing to the river, said it was "no good then;" it
+would be "good" at night. What the state of the river, which was a
+shallow stream, a branch of the Santa Cruz, had to do with the matter, I
+could not divine, and was half inclined to vote myself fairly outwitted
+by the Old Boy.
+
+The day, a long one, at last wore off, and at night we once more set
+off. We crossed the frozen marsh, and forded the river, and, after going
+about two miles, stopped for repose. We took no camp equipage, and had
+to shelter ourselves for the night under the lee of a clump of bushes.
+We thrust our feet into the thicket, while our heads lodged out of
+doors. In this interesting attitude I was made to repeat my wearisome
+detail of promises, and to rehearse once more my contemplated speech to
+the white men; which done, we dropped asleep. Waking early the next
+morning, I found my head and shoulders covered with a fleecy mantle of
+snow. Would the fortune of my expedition fall as lightly on me? I shook
+it off, turned up my coat-collar, pulled my poor, more than half
+worn-out cap over my ears, and so, partially protected from the storm,
+rolled over, and again sunk into a slumber. The storm ceased at dawn of
+day. I rose and went in search of fuel, while my dark companions still
+slept profoundly. In an hour or two they roused themselves, and kindled
+a fire. Meat, from a store brought along for our provision on the way,
+was cooked, and served for breakfast. The scanty meal being despatched,
+our horses were driven in, lassoed, mounted, and we resumed our journey,
+in a south-easterly direction. At the end of about three miles another
+halt was called, a fire was built to warm by, and the horses were
+watered. The order of arrangements was discussed, and a fresh edition of
+the promises and the speech critically listened to. Changing our course
+a little to the right, we soon struck the Santa Cruz. The Indians
+pointed far down the stream, and said, "There is Holland." I strained my
+eyes in the direction pointed out, and thought I could discern an island
+with several small huts upon it. A mile or two further on the north bank
+brought us to the mouth of the river, in prospect of the Atlantic. The
+island was directly opposite the mouth, and the lower part only appeared
+to be inhabited. We halted. The Indians pointed towards it, exclaiming,
+"Esta Holland sarvey! muchas casas, mucho mucho hombres, tene mucho
+aquadiente, mucho travac, yeruen, arenar, arose!"--This is Holland, and
+has plenty of houses, and abundance of men,--plenty of rum, tobacco,
+bread, tea, flour and rice! I surveyed the spot in silence. This island
+was of considerable extent, lying two-thirds across the wide mouth of
+the river, its surface dotted over with little knolls or hillocks of
+earth. Could it be that these were dwellings inhabited by white men?
+
+Our horses' heads were now turned from the shore, and we rode back about
+an eighth of a mile to a large clump of bushes, unsaddled our beasts,
+and waited some time for the rest of our company, who had fallen in the
+rear. They came at last, our horses were turned adrift, fire was
+lighted, and, as the day was far spent, supper was in order. Then ensued
+a repetition--a final one, I trusted--of the grand present to be levied
+on the Hollanders, and of the speech which was to draw them out. The
+Indians arranged that I was to hoist the English flag,--the colors of
+the unfortunate brig Avon, which they had brought along at my
+request,--and then to walk the shore to attract the attention of the
+islanders. On the approach of a boat, I was to be kept back from the
+beach, to prevent escape; for I found that they were not, after all, as
+well assured of my good faith as might have been desirable. They
+thought, moreover, that when the white men saw a prisoner with them,
+they would come ashore to parley, and offer presents to effect his
+release; in that case, there might be a chance, if the negotiation
+proved unsatisfactory, to take bonds of fate in the form of another
+captive or two. So, at least there was ground to suspect,--and some
+cause to fear that the rascals might prove too shrewd for all of us!
+
+After talking till a late hour, the Indians threw themselves upon the
+ground, stuck their feet into the bushes, and were soon fast asleep. I
+consulted the chief as to the propriety of modifying this arrangement,
+by placing our heads, rather than our feet, under cover, since both
+could not be accommodated. He declined any innovations, and told me to
+go to sleep. I stretched myself on the ground, but as to sleep, that was
+out of the question. I lay all night, thinking over all possible
+expedients for escape. We had no materials for a boat or raft of any
+description, and it was impossible to think of any plan that promised
+success; so that, after tossing, in body and mind, through the weary
+hours of night, I could only resolve to wait the course of events, and
+to take advantage of the first opportunity affording a reasonable hope
+of deliverance from this horrid captivity. Snow, sleet and rain, fell
+during the night; and I rose early, thoroughly chilled, every tooth
+chattering. A fire was kindled, and the last morsel of meat that
+remained to us was cooked and eaten. The weather continued squally till
+the middle of the afternoon.
+
+After breakfast the chief went with me to the shore, bearing the flag.
+On the beach I found a strip of thick board, to which I fastened the
+colors, and then planted it in the sand. The bushes around, which have a
+kind of oily leaf and readily ignite, were set on fire. I then walked
+the beach,--but no boat came. When it cleared up sufficiently to see, I
+observed little objects moving about on the island. The day wore away
+with fruitless attempts to attract their attention. With an aching heart
+I returned, at dark, to the camping-ground. On this island my hopes had
+so long centred,--if they were now to be disappointed, how could I
+endure it? The Indians began to talk of rejoining the tribe the
+following day. I opposed the motion with all the dissuasives at command,
+assuring them that, at sight of our flag, the islanders would surely
+come over in a boat, and that, if they would only wait a little, they
+could go over to the island and enjoy themselves to their hearts'
+content; representing the absolute necessity that I should procure the
+rum, &c., we had talked of, and how embarrassing it would be to go back
+to the tribe empty-handed, after all that had been said, to be ridiculed
+and reproached. It would never do. Our conversation was continued till
+quite late, when we ranged ourselves, hungry and weary, for another
+night. For hours I was unable to sleep. The uncertainties of my
+situation oppressed me, and I lay restless, with anxiety inexpressible,
+inconceivable by those whom Providence has preserved from similar
+straits. It was a season of deep, suppressed, silent misery, in which
+the heart found no relief but in mute supplication to Him who was alone
+able to deliver. Towards morning, exhausted with the intensity of
+emotion acting on an enfeebled body, I slept a little, and woke at early
+dawn, to a fresh consciousness of my critical position.
+
+The weather had been fair during the night, but there were now
+indications of another snow-storm. I waited long and impatiently for my
+companions to awake, and at last started off in quest of fuel; on
+returning with which, they bestirred themselves and started a fire,
+which warmed our half-benumbed limbs. There lay the little island,
+beautiful to eyes that longed, like mine, for a habitation of
+sympathizing men, about a mile and a half distant; it almost seemed to
+recede while I gazed, so low had my hopes sunken, under the pressure of
+disappointment and bitter uncertainty. A violent snow-storm soon
+setting in, it was hidden from view; everything seemed to be against me.
+It slackened, and partially cleared up,--then came another gust, filling
+the air, and shutting up the prospect. In this way it continued till
+past noon; at intervals, as the sky lighted up, I took a fire-brand, and
+set fire to the bushes on the beach, and then hoisted the flag again,
+walking wearily to and fro, till the storm ceased, and the sky became
+clear. The chief concealed himself in a clump of bushes, and sat
+watching, with cat-like vigilance, the movements of the islanders. After
+some time, he said a boat was coming; I scarcely durst look in the
+direction indicated, lest I should experience a fresh disappointment;
+but I did look, and saw, to my great joy, a boat launched, with four or
+five men on board, and pushing off the shore. On they came; the chief
+reported his discovery, and the rest of the Indians came to the beach,
+where I was still walking backward and forward. The boat approached, not
+directly off where I was, but an eighth of a mile, perhaps, to the
+windward, and there lay on her oars.
+
+[Illustration: The Escape. Page 160.]
+
+The Indians hereupon ordered me to return to the camping-ground; but,
+without heeding them, I set off at a full run towards the boat. They
+hotly pursued, I occasionally turning and telling them to come on,--I
+only wanted to see the boat. "Stop! Stop!" they bawled. "Now, my legs,"
+said I, "if ever you want to serve me, this is the time." I had one
+advantage over my pursuers; my shoes, though much the worse for wear,
+protected my feet from the sharp stones, which cut theirs at every step;
+but, under all disadvantages, I found they made about equal speed with
+myself. As I gained a point opposite the boat, the Indians slackened
+their speed, and looked uneasily at me; the man in the stern of the
+boat hailed me, inquiring what Indians these were, what number of them,
+and how I came among them. I replied in as few words as possible, and
+told him we wished to cross to the island. He shook his head; they were
+bad fellows, he said; he could not take me with the Indians. They began
+to pull away! I made signs of distress, and waved them to return,
+shouting to them through my hands. The boat was again backed within
+hailing distance. "Will you look out for me, if I come by myself?"
+"Yes!" was the prompt reply. The Indians, all this time, had kept within
+ten or fifteen feet of me, with their hands on their knives, and
+reiterating their commands to come back, at the same time edging towards
+me in a threatening manner. "Yes, yes," I told them, "in a moment," but
+I wanted to look at the boat,--taking care, however, to make good my
+distance from them. At the instant of hearing the welcome assurance that
+I should be cared for, I drew out the watch (which I had brought,
+according to promise, to have a new crystal inserted at Holland), and
+threw it into the bushes; the salt water would spoil it, and, if I
+_should_ be retaken, the spoiling of that would be an aggravation which
+might prove fatal. At the same moment I gave a plunge headlong into the
+river; my clothes and shoes encumbered me, and the surf, agitated by a
+high wind, rolled in heavy seas upon the shore. The boat was forty or
+fifty yards off; and, as the wind did not blow square in shore, drifted,
+so as to increase the original distance, unless counteracted by the
+crew. Whether the boat was backed up towards me, I could not determine;
+my head was a great part of the time under water, my eyes blinded with
+the surf; and most strenuous exertion was necessary to live in such a
+sea. As I approached the boat I could see several guns, pointed,
+apparently, at me. Perhaps we had misunderstood each other,--perhaps
+they viewed me as an enemy! In fact, they were aimed to keep the Indians
+from following me into the water, which they did not attempt. My
+strength was fast failing me; the man at the helm, perceiving it,
+stretched out a rifle at arm's length. The muzzle dropped into the
+water, and arrested my feeble vision. Summoning all my remaining energy,
+I grasped it, and was drawn towards the boat; a sense of relief shot
+through and revived me, but revived, also, such a dread lest the Indians
+should give chase, that I begged them to pull away,--I could hold on.
+The man reached down, and seized me by the collar, and ordered his men
+to ply their oars. They had made but a few strokes, when a simultaneous
+cry broke from their lips, "Pull the dear man in! Pull the dear man in!"
+They let fall their oars, laid hold of me, and, in their effort to drag
+me over the side of their whale-boat, I received some injury; I
+requested that they would let me help myself; and, working my body up
+sufficiently to get one knee over the gunwale, I gave a spring, with
+what strength was left me, and fell into the bottom of the boat. They
+kindly offered to strip me, and put on dry clothes; but I told them, if
+they would only work the boat further from the shore, I would take care
+of myself. They pulled away, while I crawled forward, divested myself of
+my coat, and put on one belonging to one of the crew. Conversation,
+which was attempted, was impossible; it was one of the coldest days of a
+Patagonian winter,--I was chilled through, and could only articulate, "I
+ca-n't ta-lk now; I'll ta-lk by a-nd by." Some liquor, bread and
+tobacco, which had been put on board for my ransom, on supposition that
+this was what the signal meant, was produced for my refreshment. The sea
+was heavy, with a strong head-wind; so that, though the men toiled
+vigorously, our progress was slow. I was soon comfortably warmed by the
+stimulants provided, and offered to lend a hand at the oar; but the
+offer was declined. The shouts and screams of the Indians, which had
+followed me into the water, and rung hideously in my ears while
+struggling for life in the surf, were kept up till distance made them
+inaudible. Whether they found the watch, whose mysterious tick at once
+awed and delighted them, and restored it to its place of state in the
+chief's lodge, or whether it still lies rusting in the sands by the
+sea-shore, is a problem unsolved.
+
+The boat at last grounded on the northern shore of the island; Mr. Hall,
+the gentleman who commanded the party, supported my tottering frame in
+landing; and, as we stepped upon the shore, welcomed me to their island.
+I grasped his hand, and stammered my thanks for this deliverance, and
+lifted a tearful eye to Heaven, in silent gratitude to God. I was then
+pointed to a cabin near by, where a comfortable fire was ready for me.
+"Now," I heard Mr. Hall say, "let us fire a salute of welcome to the
+stranger. Make ready! present! fire!" Off went all their muskets, and a
+very cordial salute it appeared to be. He soon followed me, took me to
+his own dwelling, supplied me with dry clothing, and, above all, warmed
+me in the kindly glow of as generous a heart as ever beat in human
+bosom.
+
+I was captured by the savages on the 1st of May, and landed upon the
+island on the 7th of August.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends.
+
+
+After getting sufficiently thawed out, I gave a synopsis of my
+adventures. The cook presently laid the table, and brought in supper. I
+ate heartily of bread and Irish pork, and drank tea raised in Brazil,
+called _matte_. It may not compare favorably with the produce of China,
+but to me it was a delicious beverage. I had been in captivity
+ninety-seven days, living as the reader has seen. Although I partook
+freely of supper,--too freely for one in my weak condition,--I rose from
+the meal with as keen an appetite as I brought to it. I again expressed
+to Mr. Hall, on learning his name, my gratitude at finding myself,
+through his timely assistance, among friends, though a stranger. He
+cordially sympathized with me, observing that he had been a prisoner
+among the Patagonians for one day only, but had seen enough in that
+short time to be convinced that a life of ninety-seven days with them
+must have been dreadful indeed.
+
+After supper the boat was hauled up on the island. Pipes and tobacco
+were furnished, and I passed in the society of my deliverers one of the
+happiest evenings of my whole life. The change was so great, from the
+miserable and almost hopeless existence I had so long lived, that my joy
+exceeded all bounds. My heart overflowed with gratitude. Words could not
+then, and cannot now, convey any adequate impression of my feelings,--of
+the freedom and joy that animated me, on being snatched from perils,
+privations and enemies, and placed, as in a moment, in security, in
+plenty, and in the society of friends. It seemed like a dream, the
+change was so sudden and so total.
+
+The little house which for the present I called my home, and which, in
+fact, appeared to me at the time the pleasantest dwelling I had ever
+seen, was about twelve by fifteen feet upon the ground, built of boards
+and scantling, and lined with blue Kentucky jean. The fireplace was in
+the middle of one end, and a door opened at the opposite extremity. Two
+large closets were parted off, the one used as a cupboard, and the other
+for stores. Each side was lighted by a window containing four panes of
+seven-by-nine glass. Two comfortable settees, probably saved from some
+wreck, lined the sides of the room, and a good-sized hardwood table
+occupied the centre. It was floored overhead, and a trap-door opened
+into a sleeping apartment, fitted with two little berths,--one for Mr.
+Hall, and the other for Morrison, the Scotchman.
+
+As we have described the interior of our snug little cottage, we will
+bestow a word or two on its exterior and surroundings. Its cracks and
+joints, over the roof and walls, were covered with strips of tarred
+duck, and battened with narrow pieces of thin board. It was situated on
+a little mound of guano, perhaps four feet high, and was banked up to
+the windows with the same material. The height of the walls above the
+embankment was about seven feet, the embankment three feet more. A
+ship's bell was suspended on the north-east corner of the house, to
+notify the workmen of the hours of labor and of their meals. Sea Lion
+Island, as it is called,--the name "Holland" was probably corrupted by
+the Indians, from the word _island_, indistinctly pronounced in their
+hearing,--is about a mile and a quarter long from north to south, with
+an average width of an eighth of a mile, and is covered over its entire
+surface with low evergreen bushes. The settlement was made by an English
+company, for the purpose of collecting guano and preparing it for
+exportation, and was situated on the southern extremity.
+
+Our social evening was prolonged to a late hour, the moments sped by the
+stimulus of novel enjoyment. One of the settees was assigned for my
+couch, bed-clothes were provided, and a bag filled with ships' colors
+and other articles served for a pillow. Before committing ourselves to
+repose, however, we discussed the probability of an invasion from the
+continent, and came to the conclusion that nothing was to be feared in
+that quarter before morning. Old Boy and his party, it was obvious,
+would have to return to the main body of the tribe for reinforcements
+and naval equipage before attempting pursuit, as they had no materials
+for the construction of boats or rafts, even if they would dare to tempt
+salt water in their leathern sacks. We accordingly dismissed the subject
+for the time, and Mr. Hall and the Scotchman, having cared for my
+comfort with anxious kindness, disappeared through the trap-door,
+leaving behind a friendly benediction. The little cottage was warm; my
+couch was the perfection of comfort, in contrast with that which had
+been my lot for ninety-seven wretched nights. Above all, for the first
+time in so many weeks, I could lie down without the fear of treachery
+and violence. I was secure from savages. This indeed was luxury. I slept
+soundly, vying in the profundity of slumber with the immortal seven,
+till late in the morning. Daylight at length had dispossessed the
+darkness of every part of the interior, and I awoke. It was no dream. I
+was indeed free. Rude but unmistakable evidences of civilization
+surrounded me. The adventures of the preceding day flashed vividly on my
+hitherto clouded mind,--the suspense, the struggle, the seasonable
+rescue, the rejoicing welcome, the spontaneous and subduing
+kindnesses,--and a warm gush of tender and grateful emotion from my
+inmost soul thrilled and suffused my whole being. While these emotions
+were subsiding from the fervor of their first impulse, and the mind was
+gliding away into a delicious and confused revery, wherein all manner of
+delight seemed to encircle me as with an atmosphere, in whose genial
+glow all past suffering existed only for the heightening of present
+enjoyment, the trap-door overhead was lifted, and my generous friends
+dropped down with a hearty salutation. I sprang from my couch, as good
+as new, and younger than ever. A cheerful coal-fire was soon burning in
+the grate, the room was swept, breakfast was brought in and despatched,
+the bell rang, and the men issued forth to their daily labors, while I
+went out to explore my new abode.
+
+The island is low and flat, and at high water its surface is only eight
+or ten feet above the water-line; but the tide here rises and falls
+about the same height as at the eastern mouth of the Straits of
+Magellan,--nearly forty-two feet. Within twenty-five feet of our house
+was a small store-house and shed, a hog-sty, and a large stone oven.
+About the same distance further on, was a house for workmen, framed of
+timber, and roofed and laid up at the sides with bushes; and the sides
+were banked and the roof coated with earth, an old sail forming the
+topmost and outermost feature of the edifice,--except that on one
+extremity of the roof a headless barrel communicated with the fireplace,
+and did duty very respectably as chimney and ventilator. There were no
+windows; the men, and whatever portion of light and air sufficed them,
+found ingress and egress through a door in one end. It was most
+evidently made for use, not for show; but appeared to be very
+comfortable, and was neatly fitted up with berths and benches, a table
+and cooking apparatus. Its occupants were eight in number,--three
+Frenchmen, two Spaniards, an Englishman, a Welshman and an Irishman; so
+that, the island having adopted (for a season, at least) a
+representative of the "universal Yankee nation," may be thought to have
+brought together samples from a pretty considerable part of mankind.
+
+Besides these human specimens, the settlement boasted of a dog, two
+mature porkers, and a litter of pigs. Near the house was a large heap of
+guano, prepared and ready for shipping to England and the United States.
+The men were at work hard by digging it up. It lies on the surface of
+the ground to a depth of from one to three feet; is dug up and conveyed
+in barrows to a cleared spot, where it lies in heaps, to be sifted.
+Stones, feathers, sticks, and other foreign substances, are carefully
+removed, the larger lumps are broken up, and the cleared guano is spread
+out in a thin layer; when thoroughly dried, it is covered up with
+planks. The business was carried on by Captain Matthew S. White, an
+Englishman, who had then been absent for several months at Montevideo,
+whither he had gone to procure vessels for conveying the guano already
+prepared, now amounting to some fifteen hundred tons, to market. The
+time he fixed for his return had expired a month before my advent upon
+the island, and Mr. Hall was beginning to feel very anxious for him,
+fearing lest some accident had befallen him, and anxious for himself and
+his company, also, as they had but a few months' provisions; the island
+was rarely visited by vessels, and their only means of reaching any
+port, in case of extremity, were the ship's long-boat, and a whale-boat,
+both too small to undertake so long a voyage with any hope of safety.
+
+The possibility that my late hospitable friends on the main land might
+be led, by their high consideration for me, to visit "Holland" in a
+body, kept us busy, during the day, in making preparations to receive
+them with appropriate honors. Mr. Hall, who was left in charge of the
+settlement during the absence of the proprietor, observed that Captain
+White had often expressed apprehensions that the Indians would come upon
+the island, some time when he was away, and murder all hands. My
+slipping from them in the manner I had was not an event likely to
+dissuade them from the attempt, or weaken their motives for making it.
+There were two swivels in the camp, which we mounted upon wheelbarrows,
+to serve as flying artillery. I ground sharp an old whaling-harpoon,
+and fixed a handle to it; this was slung over my couch; and a large
+sheath-knife, for use in case we got to close quarters, reposed under my
+pillow. The Indians were prowling about the shore, probably expecting to
+see me re�ppear among them, laden with the rum and tobacco they came
+after, and which they had earned by boarding and lodging me so long, and
+by the multiplied kindnesses with which they beguiled the months of my
+residence among them. It is likely they think, by this time, that I have
+been gone a long time for it.
+
+Before retiring for the night, we loaded our swivels to the muzzle, and
+fired them, to let our neighbors know that we had the wherewithal to
+give them a warm reception, should they see fit to make us a visit. We
+then reloaded the pieces, each with a dozen or more large bullets,
+placed them ready primed at the door, and covered the primings, to keep
+our powder dry. We had six or eight muskets ready loaded, enough to arm
+the entire garrison, with plenty of ammunition. The dog was tied to the
+doorhandle, to give notice of danger, and the door carefully secured.
+Just as we were about retiring, Bose gave a portentous bow wow! but, on
+going out, and taking a survey of the premises, the alarm proved to be
+false. All was quiet; and, with a momentary doubt of the sagacity and
+discretion of our sentinel, we lay down with a sense of security,--first
+taking the axe into the house, thinking that the cunning rogues might
+try to burn us out, should they find the efforts to dislodge us
+otherwise ineffectual. With this final precaution, our faithful sentinel
+chained to his post, like a Chinese soldier to his gun, we were soon
+sound asleep. The night passed quietly away, without any further alarm
+from our look-out, who was of the English pointer breed,--a sleepy,
+dough-faced fellow, better qualified to show the game than to occupy the
+responsible station to which he was promoted. He was a great coward, but
+that was not altogether against him; for, since the law of
+self-preservation applies to brutes as well as to men, fear would impel
+him to make some kind of demonstration on the approach of foes, if
+fidelity did not; and one kind of demonstration would be as useful to us
+as another, if only audible.
+
+After breakfast I walked forth, and cast an anxious look through the
+glass to the northern shore of the main land, to see if the Indians
+still occupied their position, and whether they were building boats, or
+making any other preparations for invasion. There they were,--the
+patient creatures!--still posted in view of our quarters, the English
+flag flying on the beach. There were several dogs on the shore, and
+among them I recognized my own; I almost fancied I could hear him
+barking. As we brought no dogs with us, I concluded that they had gone
+back to the main body, and got a reinforcement, with materials for
+boat-building, and brought my dog for the especial gratification of his
+affectionate master; and now he was capering about on the shore, as if
+to call me back. Having sufficiently gratified my curiosity in this
+direction, I turned the glass seaward, in hope to view some approaching
+sail but the broad expanse was clear,--no vessel to be seen. On the
+river banks a few stray guanacos were cropping the scanty, rank grass,
+while others, with their young, were lying on the sunny slopes of the
+sand-hills. The quiet of these animals assured me that their inveterate
+enemies, the Indians, were not in the vicinity.
+
+Tired, at length, of this sort of sight-seeing, I returned to the house,
+and, taking our guns, started with Mr. Hall on a stroll up the island,
+hoping to shoot some sea-fowl; but returned at noon, unsuccessful. The
+afternoon was spent in wandering aimlessly over the island, killing
+time. Walking about on the sea-shore, I picked up some clear,
+transparent stones, coated on the outside with a kind of crust; some of
+them are very hard, and, when broken, cut glass like a diamond. I wrote
+my name, and place of residence, on a window of our little cottage, with
+a fragment of one; they are mostly white, some of them of a vermilion,
+and others of a straw color; they are, I suppose, a variety of quartz.
+The shore is, in some places, covered with these pebbles to the depth of
+two or three feet, on an average of the size of a walnut; the hardest
+specimens were not abundant, but I collected about a hundred of them. I
+might have picked up many more, if they had possessed any special value.
+
+A further examination of the opposite shore disclosed Indians still
+prowling about, and I proposed to Mr. Hall to go over, with the men, and
+give them a sound drubbing. Revenge, I know, is said to dwell in little
+minds; if so, my abode in Patagonia must have dwarfed and contracted my
+own intellect for the time being, for I must confess to the
+consciousness of a desire to visit upon them some appropriate return for
+what they had inflicted upon me. Mr. Hall admitted the ill-desert of the
+Indians, and the entire rightfulness of a severe chastisement; but, not
+having the same stimulus to heat his blood that burned within me, he
+viewed the question with a more strict regard to prudence, and was
+altogether disinclined to undertake so hazardous an expedition; he
+dreaded going any nearer to the savages than was necessary. I would,
+myself, rather have been shot than fall into their hands a second time;
+but contended that the approach of the boat would bring them to the
+shore, and enable us to do them a mischief from the boat, without any
+necessity of landing among them. True, the Indians _might_ succeed in
+getting upon the island some night, and effect our destruction; there
+certainly was nothing to prevent it, if they had the least ingenuity,
+and a moderate share of courage; but I knew them to be a gang of arrant
+cowards, and the reader may judge of their inventiveness by the
+preceding narrative. The subject was discussed till late in the evening,
+and the needful preparations and precautions were thoroughly talked
+over. When about to retire for the night, we went out and looked for our
+vigilant sentinel, whose due place, in right of his office, should have
+been at the door. Recreant to his trust, the rascal had deserted, to
+take up his night's lodging with the pigs. He was soon hustled out of
+his nest, and compelled to return to the door, there to be tied, as on
+the preceding night, to the handle. His choice of such mean company
+greatly lowered the animal in my estimation. While fixing him in his
+place, we perceived a light on the north shore; it appeared to be
+carried about from place to place, and was at some distance from the
+Indians' wigwams. This had much the appearance of preparation for a
+nocturnal visit from the rascals,--a symptom of boat-building. From my
+observation of their habits while among them, I was convinced that
+something extraordinary was on foot; they were not much in the habit of
+moving about after dark, with or without lights, and nothing but the
+pressure of an unaccustomed purpose could have made them so enterprising
+now. We uncovered the priming of our swivels, and greased their muzzles,
+to make them speak in a louder tone of warning and defiance to the
+enemy; they were discharged with a loud report, that made the island
+ring, and must have resounded with effect upon the hostile shore. The
+guns were reloaded, primed, and mounted upon their carriages at the
+door. The lights that had drawn forth this sonorous demonstration
+speedily disappeared; the Indians, it was presumed, had taken the hint,
+and abandoned or postponed their undertaking, whatever it might have
+been. I well knew their dread of big guns. When I attempted, at first,
+to persuade them to go with me to Port Famine, the chief reason
+assigned, besides the superior advantages of "Holland," was, that there
+were big guns there, which were "no good for Indians." A council of war
+came to the conclusion that there was nothing to be feared from them
+that night, and we thereupon retired.
+
+If our careful preparations seem to belie my expressed belief of their
+cowardice, it should be remembered that they had once fleshed their
+swords, if not their teeth, in the bodies of some white men, and had
+held, for a brief period, islanders in their custody; they were
+numerous, and might so far confide in their numbers and strength as to
+dare the attempt to wreak their disappointments fully upon our heads.
+Our caution was reasonable, and, at the time, was not excessive in
+degree. In the morning we made a careful survey of the premises,
+exploring all the sheds, and every other place where an enemy could have
+secreted himself, but made no discoveries. We walked over the island,
+and examined the opposite shore; but perceived nothing strange or
+alarming, except that the Indians still remained in their quarters, and
+that their numbers had greatly increased.
+
+The question of crossing over and driving them off was revived after
+breakfast, but, after considerable talk, no definite conclusion was
+reached, and I spent the day wandering over the island, gunning and
+picking up rare stones, occasionally surveying the coast through the
+glass. At night no lights appeared opposite; and having made our usual
+preparations against a nocturnal attack, we decided that if the black
+rascals did not speedily pick up their traps, and make themselves
+"scarce," we would go over and hurry their movements. Mr. Hall found his
+loyalty stirring within him, in aid of revenge. He said it was too much
+to see that blood-stained British flag flying among such a miserable set
+of creatures, bringing freshly before his mind the forms of his
+slaughtered countrymen. This sentiment I was prompt to encore, and to
+enforce the propriety of an invasion to wrest the trophy from their
+hands. This was determined upon for the next day, unless they should
+sooner relieve us of their presence.
+
+The day dawned with a cloudy sky and a thick atmosphere, which made it
+impossible to see distinctly for any distance. Towards noon it cleared
+up, and we discovered that our troublesome neighbors were still there.
+We thereupon set about the necessary preparations for a movement,
+immediately after dinner. Arms and equipments were appointed, knives
+sharpened, guns put in order and stacked against the house;--the bell
+rang for dinner, and we ate with appetites sharpened by excitement. But,
+on going out, and taking a final look through the glass before
+embarking, we observed the Indians catching their horses. They speedily
+mounted their beasts, and rode off. Our anticipated valor was soon
+cooled. They had slipped away without giving us a chance to do anything
+for revenge, for justice, or for the honor of the captive flag. On the
+whole, we were not sorry to abandon the expedition, though it seemed to
+me that our chances of security were not much improved by their
+departure. They would be very likely to lurk in the vicinity, and to
+return with full preparations for crossing and landing upon the island.
+Perhaps their movement was only a ruse to put us off our guard. Such
+thoughts crowded my mind; but there was no use in borrowing trouble, and
+I dismissed them.
+
+The men returned to their work, and I set myself to devise some
+employment. I had become tired of idleness, and offered to assist in the
+preparation of guano; but Mr. Hall interposed a decided veto. He wished
+me, he said, to make myself entirely contented, and as comfortable as
+possible. But the sort of life I was leading was very decidedly
+uncomfortable; and I entreated so earnestly to be allowed to make myself
+useful in some way, that he set me to make a row-lock for a boat, or a
+few thole-pins, or some other trivial things, that served to occupy
+attention and divert the mind. Then our cottage wanted a new floor, and
+some alterations were found necessary about the premises. When
+everything was done, and no more was suggested, I was desired to go a
+gunning, to vary the supplies for the table, or to take a basket and
+pick the tops of the bushes for pickling. The bushes, which are
+evergreen, have on their tops little clusters not unlike barberries,
+that make a very fine pickle. Several jars were filled, and furnished an
+excellent condiment for our suppers.
+
+Time passed on, and the non-arrival of Captain White made it drag
+slowly. I had thought to take passage in one of the guano vessels to Rio
+Janeiro, or some other South American port, from which it might be easy
+to obtain a passage for California. In default of other occupation, the
+large lighter, which lay up the creek, two-thirds the length of the
+island, was brought down opposite the house for repair, to be in
+readiness to load the ships when they should arrive. Their delay
+threatened us with famine, moreover, and it was beginning to be felt as
+a very serious matter. To add to our troubles, the scurvy broke out
+among the men, in consequence of living on salt provisions, without
+vegetables. They had been recommended, as a preventive, to make and eat
+freely of the pickle just described; but, either from want of faith in
+the virtue of the prescription, or because it was too much trouble, they
+had neglected to do so, and now found themselves in a poor plight.
+
+About the same time, as troubles
+
+          "come not single spies,
+    But in battalions,"
+
+Mr. Hall was informed by the Welshman, who appeared very friendly, that
+Morrison, the Scotchman, was trying to prejudice the Frenchmen and
+Spaniards against him, and inciting the men to mutiny. The man had lived
+in the house and been treated like a gentleman, and this was all the
+return he made for the preference shown him. Sawney's goods and
+chattels were forthwith thrown out of doors, and he was ordered to take
+his bed and board with the men. He took this descent in the world very
+much to heart, and when I talked with him on the impropriety of his
+conduct, appeared quite penitent. I strongly advised Mr. Hall to take
+him back into the house; for, though he had proved treacherous, it was
+better, after all, to have him under our immediate watch than with the
+men, as he might, in a short time, infect the whole company. After much
+coaxing, consent was given to his return, and he replaced his things in
+the house with much apparent gratitude. He was told that he must show
+himself an honest man, and labor to undo the mischief he had done, if he
+had any care of his personal safety; for should any trouble break out,
+and the sacrifice of life become necessary, his would be the first. He
+faithfully promised, and, I doubt not, exerted himself to allay
+discontents and prevent any outbreak. With the Spaniards he was
+successful; but the Frenchmen were more turbulent, and determined on a
+rupture. They complained that their allowance of food was insufficient,
+and threatened to break into the store-house and help themselves. Mr.
+Hall had served out their daily rations of meat, bread and flour, by
+weight, according to the directions of Captain White. The quantity I
+have forgotten, but remember Mr. Hall saying that it was the same as is
+allowed per man in the British navy. When the bell rang for work the
+next morning, the Welshman and Irishman alone went. The Spaniards said
+that they had the scurvy so badly they were unable to work; the
+Frenchmen marched up to the house, and peremptorily demanded more flour.
+Mr. Hall met them at the door; and, in reply, told them that they had
+the same food, in quality and quantity, with all the others, himself
+included, and that the allowance for the house proved to be more than we
+needed. None of the other men complained, and their complaints could not
+be listened to by him. They had all that Captain White allowed, and, if
+they were not satisfied, they could appeal to him when he returned,
+which would undoubtedly be very soon. Meanwhile he advised them "to be
+quiet, and do their own business." They left in a very wrathful mood,
+not to their work, but to their quarters, and to idle away the rest of
+the day in sauntering up and down the island. They went on in this way
+for nearly a week, and at last consented to return to duty, under a
+promise that nothing should be deducted from their wages, which was
+given as a matter of prudence. It was not thought safe, in present
+circumstances, to strain authority over them. Nothing occurred to give
+serious uneasiness, though the men were so touchy and quarrelsome as to
+raise a slight tempest, now and then. On one occasion, Mr. Hall had been
+with three men up the creek, seven or eight miles, after fresh water,
+which could only be obtained at that distance and boated down to the
+settlement. While we were unlading the boat, a row was kicked up between
+one of the Frenchmen and the Welshman. Taffy, who was a thorough seaman,
+when adjusting the ropes to the casks, was assailed by one of the
+Frenchmen with some derogatory remark touching his seamanship, prompted
+by his mode of "putting on the parbuckle." The critic attempted to take
+the rope into his own hands, by way of enforcing and exemplifying his
+view of the process; and the two were on the point of settling the
+question in a summary fashion, in a spirit which it required some effort
+to quell.
+
+The Indians still hovered in the vicinity of the further shore, as the
+smoke of their fires plainly indicated, and we were obliged to keep up
+our preparations for defence. There was nothing to prevent them from
+paying us a visit but their cowardice; and knowing their revengeful
+tempers, and the tenacity of their purposes,--the long-lived malice with
+which they were capable of pursuing any evil designs,--it seemed not
+unlikely that, smarting under the disappointment I had caused them,
+their resentment would prove strong enough to overcome their timidity.
+In this connection I had an unpleasant thought, now and then, of a hint
+given them while we were on our way to "Holland." When about a mile
+distant from the shore, I picked up a bit of plank, and somewhat rashly,
+in the impetuosity of desire to contrive ways and means to get to the
+island, in case the islanders could not be attracted towards us, told
+the Indians that, if we could find two or three more of the same sort, I
+could bind them together and make a raft, on which I might be paddled
+over to "Holland." I informed them, moreover, what was the most
+favorable time for crossing; namely, at the last of the tide, as the
+distance to be passed would be less, and there would be no difficulty in
+effecting a landing on the island. No additional materials presented
+themselves, and the scheme was given up; happily there was no need of
+it. But, less happily, it now occurred to me that what I then spoke in
+my own behoof might be turned by the Indians to theirs, to our no small
+danger, in case a more earnest and vigorous search should disclose,
+along-shore, more abundant materials for extemporizing transport craft.
+
+Some of the men became so sorely afflicted with the scurvy that we
+decided to land on the south shore and chase some of the guanaco for
+fresh provision. Two of the Frenchmen accompanied us. Just as we were
+getting off, their countryman who was left behind came running to us,
+with angry jabber and gesture, vociferating that one of them had his
+gun. He seized it and was taking it out of the boat, when the party
+dispossessed of it disputed his progress, and a regular French fight of
+kicking and fisticuffs ensued, which we had difficulty in subduing. At
+last we got off, but discovered only a lone guanaco in a hollow between
+the hills. We posted ourselves to surround him for a shot. When he came
+out I had a fine chance at him as he crossed the top of the hill, and
+made quite sure of him. Unluckily, the flint-lock missed fire, and,
+before it was possible to burn any powder, our expected prey escaped. We
+cruised about for several miles, and returned home tired and empty.
+
+The men continued their work, as usual, the next day; but a storm was
+brewing. On the following morning the Frenchmen marched up to the house,
+and demanded their wages. They were told by Mr. Hall that he had none of
+the proprietor's money, nor any authority to settle with them. Then they
+would work no longer. Very well, they were told, they might let work
+alone, but their wages and rations could not be meddled with on demand.
+So they indulged in another season of idleness and mischief. Their first
+revenge was taken on old "John," the horse. On the second day of their
+mutiny the poor animal was seen to halt; a hamstring was cut. He was
+very fat, and was probably marked by them for food, in default of fresh
+provision. At all events, Mr. Hall ordered him, as he was useless, to
+be so dealt with. The men's rations were served out, and the rest was
+laid up in the store-house for future use. "Horse-beef" has a strong and
+singular flavor. I had become accustomed to such diet among the
+Patagonians, though never privileged to partake of so fat a specimen as
+old John.
+
+Not knowing to what height the mutinous spirit of his men might carry
+them, Mr. Hall wrote a brief statement of his affairs, and an account of
+my arrival on the island, and enclosed them, together with what money
+and valuable papers he had, in a tin box, which he buried at night in a
+guano-heap. That would certainly be removed on Capt. White's arrival, or
+by some one else, if he never returned; so that our tale would not be
+lost, even though we should not survive to tell it. The desperate
+character of the men,--all but one or two of whom, as we had reason to
+believe, had left their country for their country's good,--and the
+recklessness of their behavior, made our situation rather ticklish. Our
+fear of the Indians, moreover, was not laid entirely to sleep, though
+all visible tokens of their neighborhood to us had disappeared. By
+passing up and crossing the river, they might approach us from the south
+shore, which was separated from the island by a channel not more than
+half as broad as that on the opposite side. The bank, to be sure, was
+steep and muddy, involving the risk that they would be hopelessly
+bemired in attempting to land; but this was a weak security against
+them, if they were resolute enough to make the effort. Nothing occurred
+for several days to break the monotony of life. No work was done; the
+men received their allowances twice a week, spending their time in
+wandering over the island. The large boat needed repairs, but they
+rendered no aid. We took advantage of high water, rove tackles, and, by
+the help of rollers, drew it up high and dry on the land. When it was
+finished,--through fear that the men might seize it and make off to some
+place northward, thus depriving us of our only means of escape, if our
+provisions should be exhausted before Capt. White's return,--it was
+turned over, and the sails and oars were secured, as far as possible,
+from depredation.
+
+Old John was devoured, to the partial relief of the company; but some
+were still badly affected with scurvy. Yet we were afraid to go any
+distance in search of fresh provisions, on account of the risk of
+finding Indians about. The carcass of a guanaco, just killed by the
+dogs, was picked up in time to afford a sensible alleviation of
+suffering, and to replenish our rapidly wasting stock of provisions.
+Indians without, discontent and mutiny within, and the possibility of
+famine, together, would have made the island anything but a paradise to
+one who had not so lately escaped the purgatorial pains of a Patagonian
+captivity. The first of these disagreeables, however, began to be less
+vividly felt. We got tired of sweeping the horizon with our glass in
+search of the smoke of their camp-fires, or other appearances suggesting
+their vicinity, and gradually relaxed our vigilance. Bose was released
+from his sentry duties, and suffered to exchange such unwilling service
+for the society of his friends the pigs. But we still took the axe into
+the house by night, and kept our guns loaded. The boat had to be
+launched once more, to go up the creek for water. When it was unladed,
+we got the aid of a Spaniard and Frenchman in drawing it on land, to
+prevent the rascals from stealing it, by telling them that it needed
+painting, which was true enough. The seine was next got out, to see if
+some fish could not be had for the improvement of our diet; but we got
+what is vulgarly termed "fisherman's luck," and spread the ineffectual
+net on the gravelly beach to dry. Grown desperate, at last, we decided
+that, Indians or no Indians, we _must_ have fresh provisions, if any
+were to be had, and manned the whale-boat for an expedition to the
+continent. We landed on the south shore, and succeeded in discovering
+and bringing down a solitary guanaco. The game was dressed, and we
+returned to our home in triumph. The two following days were chiefly
+spent in hunting, unsuccessfully.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, having nothing else to pass away the
+hours, I commenced repairing the lighter, but had not been long at work
+before Mr. Hall came down, with a smile. "Look out to sea!" he
+exclaimed; "Captain White is coming." I looked as directed, and saw
+distinctly two sail approaching. A thrill of joy shot through me; I
+thought no more of work that day. An examination through the glass made
+them out to be a ship and a fore-and-aft schooner. Could it be any one
+else than Captain White? The island was not frequented by vessels except
+for guano; but it seemed very strange to see a schooner, as a vessel of
+that rig was not adapted to such a service. Mr. Hall began to think it
+might be some of General Rosas' vessels despatched to drive away people
+engaged in taking guano on the Patagonian coast. It had been reported,
+some time before, that he designed doing so. He heard the rumor a few
+months previous at Montevideo; and also another, that the Chilian
+government claimed the country, and were determined to hold it.
+
+The little schooner led the way, considerably in advance of the ship.
+As the vessels approached nearer, they presented a decidedly Yankee
+look. We watched them with intense interest, as they passed the shoals,
+and came up with a favorable breeze, under a press of sail. Soon they
+entered the river's mouth. On passing the north point the schooner stood
+up, keeping the north shore, and cast anchor. It was evident they were
+not acquainted with the navigation, as there is a large shoal running
+from the upper end of the island nearly to the mouth of the river, and
+they had sailed within it. On discovering the error, she attempted to
+keep off, but, in so doing, struck the lower end of the shoal. Mr. Hall
+manned the boat, and boarded the schooner. She proved to be the
+Washington, tender to the ship Hudson, Captain Clift, of Mystic,
+Connecticut,--a whaling vessel, just from the Falkland Islands. Mr. Hall
+promised to go on board again during the following forenoon, and pilot
+the vessel into the channel.
+
+I went with him for this purpose; and, as it was calm, the anchor was
+hove aweigh, and, with the boat ahead, we towed the schooner across the
+shoal, which at low water is plainly to be seen, but now, at flood tide,
+had plenty of water. After getting into the right position, the anchor
+was dropped, and we spent the day on board very pleasantly. The weather
+held moderate till afternoon. The ship yet lay off the mouth of the
+harbor, and made slow progress upward. The schooner, the day before,
+being so far ahead, had only daylight and wind enough to get in; and the
+ship, finding she would be benighted, as the wind sank with the sun,
+hauled on and off during the night, and then lay with scarcely wind
+enough to fill the sails. A smart breeze, however, sprung up in the
+afternoon, and she came gallantly into port, only repeating the mistake
+made by the schooner between the channels; but got off at night with the
+tide, and, after some delay, anchored securely in sufficient depth of
+water. As she intended making some stay in port, she was subsequently
+taken further up to the proper anchorage, and was moored on the 5th of
+October, having come in on the 4th.
+
+Captain Clift had been informed by the mate, who had been ashore, and by
+Mr. Hall, of my misfortunes and adventures among the Patagonians, and on
+the following day sent a message inviting me on board his vessel. He
+received me very cordially, and insisted that I should make his ship my
+home as long as it should suit my convenience to do so. I accepted his
+kind offer, first going on shore, and communicating it to my liberal
+benefactor, Mr. Hall. He at once assented that it would undoubtedly be
+pleasanter to be with my countrymen. I could not leave him, however,
+without endeavoring to express my earnest gratitude for my rescue from a
+captivity worse almost than death, and for the kindly sympathy and
+generous hospitality that he had exercised for two months. In my
+destitute condition I had nothing but thanks to give, and I fervently
+hoped he might never be in a situation to need the like kindness from
+others; but he was assured, that whenever or however it might be
+possible to show my gratitude in a more substantial manner, it would be
+my happiness to do so. He begged me to give myself no trouble on that
+score, insisted on my retaining the articles of clothing with which he
+had supplied me, hoped I would come often and see him while the vessels
+continued there, and I bade this noble specimen of the true-hearted
+Englishman a tearful good-by.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain.
+
+
+Captain Clift cordially welcomed me to his ship, and immediately
+tendered me whatever I might need for personal comfort. I declined
+availing myself of his generosity, assuring him that I could be
+comfortable with present supplies; but he insisted on replenishing my
+wardrobe, silencing all objections by the remark that I plainly needed
+the articles, and that it was a part of our duty on earth to give to the
+needy. Captain Clift was a Christian in precept and example. He had
+daily prayer on board his ship, and made his religion an inseparable
+part of himself; something more than a profession, that did not expend
+itself in words, but found expression in acts of kindness to all within
+his reach. He had on board a poor sick Irish lad, who was taken into the
+cabin, and nursed with all the care that circumstances admitted. Had
+poor Mike been his own son, he could not have done more for him. Such
+acts, incapable of being traced to any sordid or selfish motive, sprung
+spontaneously from his capacious heart, full to overflowing with the
+milk of human kindness. As the ship had been at the Falkland Islands for
+several months, where they lived exclusively upon fresh meat, it seemed
+impossible that there should be a case of scurvy on board; but the
+captain remarked that the Patagonian coast was the worst he ever visited
+in this respect.
+
+The crew, under direction of the mate, a brother of the captain, were
+busy in landing cattle, swine, empty casks and other articles, to make
+room on board for trying out whales, in case they captured any more, for
+which the schooner was getting ready to cruise up and down the coast.
+The mate went in the tender on her first trip out; but she returned, in
+three or four days, unsuccessful. A second cruise was undertaken, but in
+a week's absence only one whale was discovered, and this they failed to
+secure. A third and still longer trip was equally unsuccessful, and they
+returned not a little discouraged. During this time I had repeatedly
+exchanged visits with Mr. Hall, and felt quite comfortable in my new
+quarters; but suffered the misery of idleness, and of impatience at my
+detention, even among such generous and considerate friends. Partially
+to relieve the tedium of inactivity, in compliance with an urgent
+request for some useful employment, I was allowed to repair the ship's
+spanker. But I determined that, on the next cruise of the tender, I
+would take a berth, in the hope of falling in with some vessel bound
+around Cape Horn, or to Montevideo, Rio Janeiro, Pernambuco, or any
+other port from which it might be possible to secure a passage to
+California,--a land I was resolved at least to see, after having got so
+far on my way, though so inauspiciously.
+
+The vessel was soon ready to sail. The evening before our departure Mr.
+Hall visited me, and also came in the morning, before we were off;--the
+whole-souled fellow! I shall always pray for his happiness. Captain
+Clift added to his other kindnesses by pressing upon me various articles
+of comfort for the voyage, with a nice clothes-bag to contain them all.
+I parted from them, heartily praying a continuance of God's blessing on
+them both; adding, however, that it was very likely they would see me
+turning up among them, like a bad penny, on the return of the schooner.
+In truth, my natural buoyancy had so far died out, that but faint hopes
+of a successful termination of the voyage, begun, so long before, under
+auspices apparently cheering, now encouraged me. We hove up the anchor,
+hoisted sail, and steered out of the harbor and down the coast, running
+off and standing in on the land, in hope to fall in with whales. On the
+fourth day out, we discovered a sail coming down the coast towards us.
+It proved to be an outlandish-looking craft, from her rig appearing to
+be a Portuguese schooner. We sailed towards her with a light breeze,
+lowered our boat, and went alongside the foreigner. She had on board a
+large crew of cut-throat looking fellows, loitering about. We were not
+asked on board, but remained in the boat talking with them through one
+of our men, a Portuguese. They said they were from some place, the name
+of which I have now quite forgotten, up the Straits of Gibraltar, and
+were bound through the Straits of Magellan to California. I suggested to
+Mr. Clift the propriety of getting on board, and going to Port Famine or
+to California. He said I could do as I pleased; but that, for his own
+part, he would feel hardly willing to trust himself among them, in which
+opinion I concurred.
+
+Our Portuguese hand went on board, and talked with the captain of my
+adventures among the Indians, and of the occupation, &c., of our
+schooner. He was directed to inquire for whales, and brought us answer
+that several had been seen along the coast, some distance to the
+northward. While this conversation was going on, a tall, hairy fellow
+came up from the cabin, encased in a dark-colored cloak having a red
+collar, and stripes of the same hue running about the edge; a hood, or
+cap, of divers gaudy colors, lay back on his shoulders, and another,
+gayly and profusely variegated in hue, was perched upon his head.
+Altogether he was a comical-looking piece of human nature. He took a
+look at our vessel through the glass. In answer to an inquiry through
+our interpreter, we learned that they had passed, the day before, an
+American schooner bound that way, which could not be far off. One of the
+sailors passed some liquor to us over the side of the vessel; it was sad
+stuff, and I could only out of compliment go through with the form of
+drinking. While this little courtesy was enacting, our Esau over-head
+was scanning the horizon with his glass, and at length exclaimed that he
+saw the vessel; we turned, and distinctly perceived a sail making
+towards us.
+
+We soon returned to the tender, and stood in for the shore, in order to
+cut off the approaching stranger; anxious to meet her, I went aloft to
+the mast-head, where the view was better, and kept the mate advised of
+her course. When near enough to be watched from the deck, I came down,
+as it was impossible she could escape us. Mr. Clift offered to board
+her, and I accordingly picked up my things, ready for contingencies; the
+breeze was light, and the strange schooner approached slowly. We stood
+in till it was judged we were in her track, and then hove to, with the
+stars and stripes flying at the main gaff, as a signal that we wished to
+speak her. Presently the same beautiful flag was run up her main peak;
+on she came,--our boat was lowered, Mr. Clift jumped in with me, and we
+were rowed alongside, the schooner rounding to, and laying by for us to
+come on board. Captain Clift announced himself to the master of the
+schooner, who came to the side to receive us, and introduced me. He
+courteously invited us on board, jocosely remarking that we had a good
+many captains for one vessel, took us into the cabin, and treated us
+with the greatest civility.
+
+The schooner proved to be the Hopewell, of New Orleans, Captain Morton,
+from Antigua, and bound to San Francisco, through the Straits of
+Magellan. There were two passengers aboard, an American gentleman, and a
+Portuguese, taken aboard at Bahia. At Captain Morton's request, I gave a
+sketch of my expedition and sojourn among the cannibals. "You were bound
+to California when you embarked?" he inquired, when I had concluded; "I
+am bound there, and, if you wish to finish your voyage, you can go with
+me." My mind was relieved; I almost feared to ask a passage, but my wish
+had been anticipated,--my request generously granted before it was
+uttered. I gratefully accepted his offer; remarking that unless my
+vessel had arrived in safety, of which I had no assurance, I should find
+myself as destitute on landing as at that moment; but that he could
+leave me at Port Famine, if I became troublesome. The "John Allyne" I
+supposed to have been lost soon after my capture; I had heard nothing of
+her since. He desired me to give myself no trouble in that matter on
+_his_ account, and exerted himself to entertain us. As we were opposite
+the river Gallegos, and could easily run down to Cape Virgin during the
+night, Captain Morton felt in no hurry; and the whaling schooner was
+very well posted for observation on the coast, so that our men were well
+contented, and we had a very pleasant social interview of two or three
+hours. Finally, after partaking of some refreshments, I bade adieu to my
+excellent friend Mr. Clift, and the two vessels parted, to pursue their
+different courses.
+
+During the night, we worked our way down to the straits. I sat up quite
+late with the captain; and, when at length I retired to my state-room,
+fell soundly asleep. The next morning we were nearly opposite Cape
+Virgin, the north point of the entrance to the straits. We were rather
+wide off the cape; the wind was ahead, and a good strong breeze; we beat
+in at last, and anchored under Point Dungeness. The Portuguese schooner
+was in the offing; she worked up before night, and anchored a little to
+the windward of us. We lay at anchor through the night; the next morning
+we both got under way, with a light breeze, which lasted, however, but a
+little while, when the wind came round ahead. As we were passing Point
+Dungeness,--it was not fairly daylight, and I had not yet risen,--Mr.
+F., one of the passengers, cried out that the shore opposite was lined
+with Indians. I hurried on deck, to get a peep at them; upon looking,
+there appeared a great school of seals on the beach; they seemed to be
+standing up, and walking on their hind feet, so as to have, in the dusk,
+very much the appearance of Indians. With some difficulty we worked up
+to near the point where the John Allyne lay when I made my unlucky visit
+on shore, and came to anchor; so that I was brought back again almost to
+the starting-point of this "eventful history,"--a revolution suggestive
+of many reflections.
+
+The next day there came a heavy gale; the Portuguese schooner had
+anchored on the preceding night, in the bight of Possession Bay, further
+down. We lay heavily pitching at our anchors till afternoon, when
+Captain Morton determined to get his anchors, if possible, and run down
+to where the foreign schooner lay, thinking it might prove a safe
+anchorage. After much trouble in raising the anchors, we ran back,
+keeping the lead going, and running at a furious rate, under bare poles,
+excepting the head of the jib. The whole bay was a sheet of surf and
+foam. I began to think we had not much bettered our condition by
+removing. We anchored abreast of our Portuguese friend, but still
+dragged the anchors. We finally brought up by securing some iron
+castings we had on board to the kedge; the chain-cable was reeved
+through them,--they were let down ten or fifteen feet from the anchor.
+The small kedge thus fixed, with the weight attached to the chain,
+ploughed to the bottom, instead of being lifted out by the strain on the
+cable, thereby performing the service of one many times its weight. Our
+little vessel rode out the gale, which was of short duration; as the sun
+went down the wind subsided. We had hoisted a small sail to the
+main-mast, in shape resembling a leg of mutton, to make the vessel ride
+head to the wind, instead of lying in the trough of the sea. The tide,
+running at the time strongly against the wind, caused us to lie nearly
+broadside to the force of the gale; but this temporary sail, supplying
+the place of after-sail, caused the craft to lie more steadily. Just
+before sunset we got our anchors at the bow, and were under close-reefed
+sail, beating back to the place we left in the forenoon, near the first
+narrows. We arrived there in the evening, and again anchored; the next
+morning, with a light breeze from the eastward, we stood into the
+narrows, in company with the Portuguese schooner. Soon after we had
+passed through the narrows, the wind came ahead; we beat along, and
+anchored under Cape Gregory, a fine anchorage.
+
+Towards evening we discovered something sitting upon a high, abrupt
+sand-cliff, on the bordering shore; we could perceive, by an occasional
+movement, that it was a living creature. The object was of considerable
+interest, and was closely inspected with the glass; at last it was
+pronounced to be an Indian. The shore was closely scanned in all
+directions, to ascertain whether there were more in the vicinity; none
+were in sight, and we concluded to pay the solitary a visit; but, as
+hundreds might be concealed in the neighborhood, we armed to the teeth.
+Old flint-lock muskets, rusty with long idleness, were dragged from
+their hiding-places, and treated to a dose of oil, to limber their aged
+joints; new flints were fitted to the locks, and everything put in good
+order. The guns were heavily charged with powder and shot; pistols and
+cutlasses, dirks and bowie-knives, were all in readiness, and the boat
+was alongside, manned by the sailors ready to receive us. Mr. F., the
+first and second mates, and myself, pushed off for the shore. We landed
+at some distance from the object of our visit, that we might have a
+better opportunity to survey the country around. Before the boat fairly
+felt the bottom, the second mate jumped into the water, and ran along
+the beach, until he could see that the supposed Indian was a large bird.
+He raised his gun, and fired; the bird came tumbling down the precipice,
+and, on running up, we found it to be a large condor. The Dutchman had
+broken his wing. We caught our prize and took it on board the vessel,
+and were heartily laughed at for our pains by the captain, who had been
+viewing the onslaught through the glass. Mr. F. was teased by him many
+days for the intrepidity of his charge on the poor bird, rushing to the
+attack with a drawn sword in one hand, and a cocked pistol in the other.
+We all felt a little crest-fallen, I must admit, after having made such
+formidable preparations for an Indian fight, to return with so
+inglorious a prize; but, as none of my former tormentors could
+reasonably be supposed to have strayed to this part of the country, and
+I had no animosities towards other tribes to be gratified, I felt, on
+the whole, very well satisfied with the result. We measured the bird;
+but, as I was not "takin' notes" at the time, it is now impossible to
+give its dimensions; it was very large.
+
+The next day we commenced beating under a head-wind through the second
+narrows; but, when partially through, it commenced blowing so severely
+that we were compelled to return to our anchorage at Cape Gregory. The
+following day we double-reefed the sails, beat through the narrows, and
+anchored in Oazy Harbor. Here we went on shore, and discovered traces of
+Indians; the smoke of their fires was seen to the westward. We roamed
+about on shore for some hours, but found nothing to interest us; it was
+all exceeding bare and monotonous. The breeze continuing fresh ahead, we
+remained one day in the harbor, spending our leisure in shooting
+sea-fowls, which were very abundant. Once more we got under way, and
+anchored off the mouth of Pecket Harbor until daylight, then stood into
+Royal Road, and passed to the westward of Elizabeth Island into Catalina
+Bay.
+
+Before passing Sandy Point, we saw several horses, and a Chilian flag
+flying. We hauled in and came to anchor, as we wished to procure wood
+and water. A large gathering of Spaniards from the settlement came to
+the shore. Among them I noticed a little man, handsomely dressed, with a
+beautiful cloak, and a cap having a wide gilt band; he appeared to be
+about fifty years old. A young man, of perhaps thirty, of fine
+appearance, accompanied him. He was dressed in military costume, blue
+trousers with white side-stripe, blue coat with standing collar, and
+cloth cap with a gilt band. These important personages were no less than
+the governor and his highest officer. They were walking along in
+conversation, and came down to meet us as we landed, shaking hands, and
+asking us where we were from, whither bound, and if we stood in need of
+anything. Capt. Morton could understand the Spanish, when spoken, easier
+than he could speak it himself. I therefore acted as spokesman, and
+replied that we wanted wood and water. After learning the quantity
+needed, his excellency gave his men orders to cut and split the wood,
+and draw it to the shore; and said that if we would send our water-casks
+ashore, his men should fill them. In due time both orders were
+executed, and we received a good supply of these necessary stores. We
+were then invited to the governor's house. His table was sumptuously
+spread, and we were entertained in the most handsome style. He was a
+kind, gentlemanly man, and refused to receive a penny for the supplies
+he furnished us, but accepted some presents from the captain. The young
+officer also treated us very politely, and hospitably entertained us in
+his house. Our vessel remained here about a week. Every day the governor
+sent us a large bucket of sweet milk, and sometimes fresh beef. The
+place was a Chilian penal settlement. He was about removing the colony
+from Port Famine here, on account of the superiority of the soil. The
+young soldier and the Catholic _padre_ were his principal officers. A
+part of the colony yet remained at Port Famine.
+
+One day, while walking out with the governor to look at the settlement,
+he asked if we were acquainted with coal. I replied, pointing to Mr. F.,
+that he had been an engineer on several steamboats, and ought to be able
+to judge of _carbon_, as they called it. He sent his men along the
+little brook to look for some. They soon returned with several small
+specimens, which Mr. F. pronounced good coal. The governor said that the
+little brook led up to a large coal-mine, six or seven miles back, and
+he requested us to go and look at it. The next day he renewed the
+proposal, offered us horses and a man to clear the way, and said the
+_padre_ would accompany us. I hesitated a little, suggesting that we
+might fall in with Indians. But he said, and the priest concurred, that
+there was no danger on that score, and we consented to go. We
+accordingly went on shore the following morning, and found horses in
+readiness for us. Mr. F., the _padre_ and myself, started off,
+accompanied by a Spaniard on foot, armed with an axe, to clear away the
+obstructions in our path. After leaving the settlement, we plunged into
+a thick wood, on low, marshy ground, and followed a blind trail, leading
+now over the trunk of a large tree, which our horses leaped with
+difficulty, now across a quagmire, which had to be filled with bushes to
+furnish a foothold, and again was obstructed by an overhanging tree, or
+pendent branch, which arrested our progress till it could be cut away.
+In this manner we worked a passage for about a mile, when we emerged
+into an upland region free from underbrush. By this time, the thought
+recurred that it was rather imprudent travelling unarmed in that
+miserable country, infested by savage men and wild beasts; but I was in
+for it, and jogged along with dogged resolution. The face of the country
+became more uneven as we proceeded, tall trees were numerous, and we
+caught an occasional glimpse of snow on the hills. We soon reached a
+height at which there was abundance of snow. Our guide strode in
+advance, his Spanish axe swung upon his shoulder, calmly whistling a
+tune to himself. As we were descending a steep place, my horse suddenly
+stopped, and bent his head and legs to the ground,--the saddle slipped
+over his head, and his rider instantly found himself about thirty feet
+below, his head and hands stuck fast in the snow, and his heels elevated
+high in air. A little smart exertion extricated me from my uncomfortable
+position. Our guide came to me, uttering maledictions on the stumbling
+beast. Clambering with me back to where the horse stood, he beat him
+soundly, and again girt the saddle so tightly that I almost feared it
+would sever his body. I remonstrated, but he replied that it was a bad
+horse, and was playing old tricks. At the bottom of the declivity I
+remounted; we travelled through the snow as far as we could ride, then
+left our horses and continued our way on foot. The snow was very deep,
+in places frozen hard enough to bear our weight. A walk of a mile or
+more brought us, with some fatigue, to the coal-mine. But there was such
+a depth of snow that we could see only here and there a projection of
+coal in the banks of the brook which runs down from the mountains to the
+settlement.
+
+The coal was pronounced by Mr. F. to be of good quality for steamboat
+use. Some pieces which we brought down with us burned very freely, and
+emitted great heat. Mr. F. thought it a great discovery, and had an
+inclination to apply to the Chilian government for permission to work
+the mine. The Buenos Ayrean government, also, I was informed, laid claim
+to this desolate country. Forest trees, of great size, both of hard and
+soft wood, appeared to be abundant; and numerous streams of water are
+convenient, which could readily supply water-power sufficient to
+manufacture almost any quantity of lumber. A canal might very easily be
+dug to the straits, or a railroad might be constructed, so as to take
+the coal, with little trouble, from the mine to the colony. The _padre_
+said that an English company, some time ago, started to explore this
+mine, but, on account of the great depth of snow, gave up the enterprise
+without inspection.
+
+We returned to the settlement before night, and went to the young
+officer's house, where we were bountifully supplied with refreshments,
+and had a very pleasant, sociable interview, into which the priest
+entered with due spirit, in respect both to the physical and mental
+refreshments. Returned to the vessel at dusk. The next morning we
+landed some goods, and traded with the people. The principal articles
+purchased were cougar-skins, guanaco-skins, and a few ostrich-skins,
+sewed together in the form of a cape, the long feathers being extracted,
+leaving a soft, downy surface. The governor asked permission, which the
+captain readily granted, for some of the women to visit the vessel and
+trade on board; and in the afternoon half a dozen or more of them
+visited us, viewed the vessel, purchased such articles as they wanted,
+and were then set on shore. We spent here a day or two more very
+agreeably, trading with the convicts and gunning in the vicinity of the
+settlement. We had a little sport in trying to capture some sea-lions
+that were gambolling around the vessel, but were unsuccessful. We saw
+the skin of one that had been captured by one of the convicts; it was
+black, covered with a thick coat of coarse hair, or rather bristles. In
+size they were about equal to the common bull-dog. They rise every now
+and then to the surface of the water, to blow, like a porpoise. We bade
+the governor, the young officer and the _padre_, an affectionate
+farewell. Their kindness and courtesy had made our visit so agreeable
+that we were almost sorry to leave them. Not long after our departure,
+we were shocked to learn that they had met with a sudden and cruel fate.
+The convicts mutinied, and rose upon the officers. The governor and the
+priest succeeded in reaching the opposite shore, where they remained
+three days without food. They decided to return to the settlement, and
+abide the consequences, whatever they might be. The convicts bound them
+hand and foot, roasted them alive, burned their bones, and danced over
+their ashes! We had parted from them expecting never again to see their
+faces, but had loved to think of them as still inhabiting that bleak
+shore, turning it, by the magic of their cheerful temper, into a
+pleasant garden, and warming it in the glow of their kindly hearts.
+Their end was in such fearful contrast to their lives, and did such
+violence to our remembrance of their virtues, that the tidings affected
+us with a sense of personal loss, and made that lonely spot at once
+among the happiest and the saddest of my experience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting.
+
+
+Our next stopping-place was Port Famine. We were visited, the first
+evening after we anchored, by the acting governor of the colony and
+their Irish doctor. The captain and myself went on shore the next day,
+and made a very agreeable visit to the officers, who treated us with
+much politeness. We spent two or three days here. We next cast anchor in
+Saint Nicholas' Bay, a beautiful harbor. Going on shore, we observed the
+names of a number of vessels that had preceded us through the straits
+carved upon trees, with the dates of the several inscriptions; we added
+our own to the catalogue. There were some deserted bush-huts, probably
+of Terra-del-Fuegans, who frequently cross over the straits in their
+canoes, when fishing. A small, shallow stream, of much beauty, flows
+into the harbor; we rowed up it for some distance, gunning on the
+banks. From this point, several ineffectual attempts were made to
+advance; but we were driven back as soon as we cleared Cape Froward, and
+obliged to retreat to our anchorage. Our vessel was flat, and could not
+hold on before a stiff breeze, but was inclined, like a crab, to move
+sideways. The wind having subsided, we made sail late in the afternoon,
+succeeded in doubling Cape Froward, and dropped anchor in Snug Bay; but,
+not being pleased with our position, weighed anchor, and continued our
+course to Fortescue Bay. In passing Cape Holland we saw a large company
+of Indians. They paraded on the shore with dingy flags flying, and waved
+skins in the air to invite our approach; but we kept on our way without
+noticing them; anchored, the next afternoon, in Port Gallant,--a fine
+harbor, sheltered from all winds. We observed the wreck of some large
+vessel, and conjectured that it might be that of a French bark of which
+we were told at Port Famine, which was run ashore and plundered by the
+Indians, who murdered the crew. We were advised to keep a sharp look-out
+for Indians here, which we failed not to do; but none made their
+appearance. As we beat up Crooked Beach, and passed the end of Carlos
+III. Islands, we discovered a white flag flying on the Terra-del-Fuegan
+shore. Thinking it might be the signal of some white people who had been
+shipwrecked, we stood over into the opposite channel, near enough to see
+Indians and their canoes on the beach, ready to pay us a visit. We hove
+about, having no desire to make their acquaintance, and anchored,
+towards night, in the beautiful Borga Bay, opposite.
+
+The most difficult and dangerous feature of navigation in the straits is
+the encountering of sudden and violent squalls, which strike the vessel
+without the least warning, and are frequently enough to wreck her in a
+few minutes even in the hands of the most experienced seamen. We found
+on shore inscriptions of California-bound vessels, as before. On a
+branch of a tree overhanging a little stream, we found a bottle
+suspended, containing papers. This was taken on board, and its contents
+examined. Three or four vessels, passing through the straits, had left
+memoranda of their experience,--such as snow-storms, loss of spars,
+anchors, chains, &c. Captain Morton wrote a humorous account of our
+voyage, to deposit in this repository of curiosities; and I added a
+contribution, narrating my capture by the Indians and escape, with a
+request that, if it should fall into hands bound for the United States
+or England, it might be published. I little thought that it would bear
+to my anxious friends the first intelligence of my safety. I left
+letters at Sea-Lion Island, to be forwarded by the first opportunity,
+which failed to reach their destination; but this, bottled and suspended
+from a tree in the wilderness, first fell into the hands of an Indian,
+who sold it to some passing trader, by whom the soiled writing was
+deciphered, and kindly forwarded to Smith's News-room, in Boston, and
+was published in the "Boston Atlas."
+
+Our progress was slow, both wind and tide being against us; a strong
+current set constantly to the eastward. At Swallow Harbor, where we next
+anchored, we were completely sheltered from the winds, except that which
+came down from the lofty mountains, called by the sailors "willewaws."
+The scenery around is exceedingly wild. There was a beautiful waterfall
+on the mountain side, the stream probably fed by melting snow. We
+stopped at many harbors as we passed along, most of them quite secure
+when entered, but difficult of access. Half-port Bay, at which we
+touched, is very properly named. It is but a slight indentation in the
+land, and has a bottom affording very poor holding-ground, covered with
+kelp; besides, it is very imperfectly sheltered from the wind. While
+lying here we had a severe gale from the westward, which produced
+considerable "chop." Our vessel dragged her anchors, in consequence of
+their becoming foul with kelp. However, by dropping our kedge-anchor,
+and loading the chains, we succeeded in arresting our motion before
+striking the rocks. We had a narrow escape.
+
+At Cape Monday, having cast anchor, we discovered, towards night, a
+steamer on the Patagonian side, bound westward. Our colors were set, as
+there were indications of a dark and stormy night, and the steamer
+turned about and steered for our harbor. This was a pleasant
+circumstance, as the captain meant, if possible, to get towed through
+the straits. The vessel anchored near us, and proved to be the Fire Fly,
+Captain Smith master, built for an English gentleman residing in
+Talchuana, and now bound to Valparaiso. Captain Smith had his daughter
+with him, and half a dozen passengers. We visited them, and were very
+civilly received, invited into the cabin, and introduced to the young
+lady. On hearing my name, she observed that they found at Borga Bay a
+paper in a bottle, describing the captivity of a person bearing the same
+name in Patagonia, with an account of his escape. Captain Morton
+informed her that I was the writer of that document. "Is it possible?"
+she exclaimed; "then you are the hero of those adventures!" "I certainly
+am the unfortunate person there described," I replied, "though wholly
+undeserving the name of hero." She expressed, as did all the passengers,
+much sympathy, and asked many questions in regard to the treatment
+received and the life led during my captivity.
+
+Captain Smith suggested that I might be able to give him some
+information in regard to two Englishmen who had been captured by the
+savages. He had orders from the Board of Admiralty to make search at any
+places at which he might touch on the Patagonian coast, and endeavor to
+learn something of their fate. I told him that I knew something of
+certain English prisoners in that country, and proceeded to relate what
+I had learned from the Indians of the murder of Captain Eaton, and the
+capture and subsequent murder of Messrs. Sims and Douglass; giving the
+names of the vessel and the prisoners from information communicated by
+Mr. Hall. Captain Smith produced his letter of instructions, and the
+names and circumstances perfectly coincided, except that the
+instructions described the Avon as a ship, while she was styled by Mr.
+Hall as a brig; an immaterial variation, as all classes of vessels often
+pass under the general designation of "ships." My deposition of the
+facts was written out by two of the passengers, and, having been read to
+me, I signed it, for transmission to England. The English government,
+Captain Smith said, had been at great pains and expense to obtain
+information of those unfortunate young men, who belonged to highly
+respectable families in England, and to facilitate their escape. Boats
+had been sent out and buried in the sand, and a great number of
+handkerchiefs had been printed, containing particular statements of the
+situation of the buried boats; these had been distributed to vessels
+bound near the Patagonian coast, to be thrown ashore, in the hope that
+they might be picked up by Indians, and thus convey the desired
+information to the prisoners, if they were living. In hearing what the
+British government had done for its unfortunate subjects, I indulged in
+some bitter remarks on the supposed neglect of our government in respect
+to my fate, in leaving me (as I presumed to think) to perish among
+cannibals, without making any effort to learn my fate, or to rescue me
+from destruction; remarks of which I had abundant cause to be ashamed,
+when I learned what had been actually attempted in my behalf.
+
+We could effect no arrangement to be towed by the steamer, as the
+captain said his stock of fuel was too small to warrant running the risk
+of being retarded; besides, in case of accident, it would affect his
+insurance. We spent part of the evening on board the steamer; very soon
+after returning to our ship, a boat, containing two or three of the
+passengers, drew up alongside, and a package was put into my hands
+containing ten dollars, and a letter, signed by the captain and
+passengers, requesting my acceptance of the gift, as a slight token of
+their regard and sympathy. While returning my hearty thanks for such a
+demonstration of kindness to a stranger, I begged to decline the money;
+but they urged its acceptance, and I reluctantly gratified their wishes.
+
+All the next day we beat along, till we found anchorage at Round Island
+for the night. On nearing the harbor, a mast was observed on the rocks,
+lying partly out of the water. I took the boat, early the next morning,
+to ascertain if it was attached to a wreck; but found that it was
+loose, and must have drifted there. I knocked off the iron band and
+cross-trees from the mast-head, and brought them on board our vessel. At
+Tamer Harbor, our next port, we noticed the wreck of a new vessel, lying
+well up on the shore, her bottom badly shattered by the rocks on which
+she had been driven, and both masts gone; it proved to be the "John A.
+Sutter," of Rhode Island. On the opposite shore were parts of
+iron-mills, and other machinery, probably designed for use in
+California. The shore was strewed with trunks and chests, from the
+wreck; she had been stripped of everything valuable. The cabin on deck
+had been cut, and partially burned, by those touching at the harbor. We
+fished up a bundle of steel rods from the hold, which was partly filled
+with sand and water. The vessel had been wrecked, as we afterwards
+ascertained, in a thick fog, on one of the little islands off the
+western mouth of the straits, and drifted back to the harbor, where we
+found her. While we were here, the schooner Julius Pringle, of New
+London, bound to California, came in and anchored. The next day a fine
+wind bore us to Mercy Harbor, the last anchorage in the Straits of
+Magellan. The harbor is a good one; and we determined not to leave it
+till we had a good wind, that would take us well out, far enough to
+clear the islands lying off the north side. We remained several days
+waiting for a south-westerly wind, during which delay a pilot-boat,
+bound for the golden country, came up with us. Our time here was spent
+very agreeably; our passage through the straits had consumed fifty-one
+days, and had been effected without accident, though we had witnessed
+repeated tokens of disaster to some of our predecessors. By way of
+celebrating our success, we got up a "clam-bake," _minus_ the clams, in
+lieu of which we collected and roasted a quantity of muscles, by burying
+them in the earth, and applying hot stones; they proved excellent
+eating, and we had "a good time."
+
+Our mate, who was a sensible young man, of good education, had two
+foibles; he was a decided grumbler, and, in his conviviality, he was a
+little _too_ far from total abstinence. He had a particular dislike of a
+dog on board, purchased at Sandy Point,--a thievish rascal, that always
+had his nose in anything that was dirty; even the tar and slush-buckets
+did not escape his attentions. On the evening of the clam-bake, the mate
+was a little exhilarated; and, having pulled off his pea-jacket
+preparatory to "turning in" for the night, he seized Bose, mistaking him
+for the jacket he had just dropped, and threw him into his berth. The
+dog was not at all displeased with such comfortable quarters, and lay
+down very nicely with his unexpected bed-fellow. I observed the mate,
+the next morning, sitting near his berth, yawning; his eyes presently
+rested on the detested Bose; his feet were in quick motion, and an
+unceremonious kick turned the dog out as suddenly as he had been turned
+in. The incident afforded us a hearty laugh at the mate's expense, who
+became, for the rest of the voyage, a decided temperance man.
+
+Tired of our detention, we put off in unfavorable weather; the Pringle
+and the pilot-boat (whose name I have forgotten) getting out with us,
+but we found it expedient to retreat to our anchorage. A gale soon
+followed, which prolonged our stay; when its fury was past, we got out
+and proceeded northward, for Callao. In passing the port of Juan
+Fernandez, we saw a whaling-ship just putting out to sea; we had
+designed to stop here for some supplies, but concluded that we could
+better obtain them at Callao, and held on our course. In our way to
+Callao we spoke the bark Sarah, Captain Morse, from New Bedford, bound
+to California with a company of sixty members, of which Captain Morse
+was president. Our captain told them that he had on board a man from New
+Bedford,--Captain Bourne,--escaped from captivity among the Indians.
+Captain Morse replied that he recollected the sloop of war Vandalia was
+sent down to the straits in search of him. Presently a crowd of persons
+surrounded the captain of the Sarah, who appeared to be talking
+earnestly; the bark was soon hove to, and several gentlemen from New
+Bedford came to us in a boat. They seemed overjoyed to find me alive and
+well, and made numerous inquiries about my captivity and rescue. They
+informed me that the Vandalia was despatched by our government to my
+relief, with orders to punish my captors, if expedient and practicable.
+From them, also, I gained the first information concerning my ship and
+shipmates; it seemed that the vessel, with the Hebe and the J. B. Gager,
+lost their chains and anchors in the straits, and dragged out to sea.
+The John Allyne, after steering two or three days for Montevideo, to
+repair and obtain supplies, ascertained that they had water enough
+aboard to carry them around Cape Horn, the only practicable course, as,
+without chains and anchors, it was impossible to enter the straits. With
+the concurrence of all on board, it was decided to attempt the passage
+round the cape as they were. They encountered a gale off the Horn; and,
+while lying to, the vessel was knocked on her beam ends. The second
+mate, Mr. F. Crapo, of New Bedford, was washed overboard, and lost;
+others were badly bruised, some narrowly escaping the doom of the mate.
+The cabin partly filled with water; but the schooner righted, with the
+loss of spars, sails, bulwarks, caboose, and stanchions. She finally
+weathered the gale, and arrived at Valparaiso, forty-one days after I
+was left in Patagonia. Here the vessel was repaired, at great cost, and
+proceeded safely to California. After the relation of this chapter of
+accidents, I gave them a brief narrative of my adventures among the
+Patagonians; they returned towards night to their ship. The wind was
+light, and in the morning we were still near each other; several of the
+passengers came to us in a boat, bringing with them a quantity of
+American newspapers. I found in them notices of the disasters that
+befell my vessel, and the particulars of my capture. The papers were
+lent to me until we should meet at Callao,--a great favor; their
+contents were devoured with a high relish, as they were the first
+American papers I had seen since my capture. Both vessels arrived
+safely, on the third day afterwards, at Callao.
+
+In the evening after our arrival, I went with the captain and Mr. F. on
+board the Sarah, and spent an hour very agreeably. The passengers had
+agreed to take the diligence next morning, and visit the city of Lima,
+six miles distant, and they invited us to join them. Mr. F. assented,
+but I declined, preferring, on the whole, to remain on shipboard. The
+party were on shore betimes the next morning, except Mr. F., who
+consumed so much time in urging me to go with them, in which Captain
+Morton joined, that he said the company must have got off; and, unless I
+would accompany him on horseback, he would have to bear me company in
+the ship; so, rather than disappoint him, though caring but little
+personally for the jaunt, I yielded. We went ashore immediately,
+procured horses, and, having found our friends, rambled over the city,
+viewing the numerous public buildings by which it is adorned. We were
+continually beset by shrivelled, cadaverous beggars; they posted
+themselves at every corner, and besought us, by the Blessed Virgin, to
+give them alms. The day passed, on the whole, so pleasantly, and there
+remained so many objects of interest unvisited, we rather regretted that
+it was not longer. The diligence drove up to the hotel towards evening,
+to take our friends to the port; we started for our horses, intending to
+overtake and accompany them in their drive, but missed our way. Some
+time elapsed before we found ourselves at the gate of the city, opening
+on the beautiful public road to Callao. As we passed out, we drew up at
+a respectable-looking ranche; two young Spaniards appeared to be the
+only occupants. With some little delay, during which one of the two
+stepped out at a back door, we procured cigars, lighted them, and were
+moving towards the entrance. Whilst I was paying for them, my companion
+got the start of me. As I was placing my foot in the stirrup, twenty or
+thirty mounted horsemen dashed through the gateway, up to the house.
+They were armed to the teeth; their holsters stuck full of pistols, and
+I could see shining blades protruding through their garments. They had a
+desperate, lawless look, unlike that of soldiers or civil officers, and
+it seemed to me they were no better than they should be. I thought of
+the delay in giving us our cigars, and it struck me that one of the
+troop strongly resembled the fellow who stepped out so quietly on our
+entrance. I sprang into the saddle and gave my horse two or three smart
+raps, under the stimulus of which he cleared the causeway between the
+sidewalk and the road at a single bound, and speedily overtook my
+companion. He had caught a glimpse of the armed cavalcade, and we urged
+our horses at full speed for about a mile, without looking back. On
+turning, nothing was seen but a long streak of dust. We then compared
+notes touching the armed men, and agreed that we were best off at a
+distance from them. We made the best of our way to Callao, which we
+reached a little after dark, and found the captain delighted at our safe
+return, as he had feared some accident, having heard since morning of
+several robberies lately committed on that road. He had been told that a
+perfect understanding existed between the robbers and the people of
+Callao, who gave daily intelligence of persons leaving the port for the
+city; and that even officers of the government were suspected of
+conniving at these outrages, if not actually in league with the
+banditti. As yet, all attempts to ferret them out and break up their
+combination had failed. Our description of the party we encountered so
+far agreed with the statements of American residents at Callao, that we
+were congratulated, and felt disposed to congratulate ourselves, on our
+safe journey. Neither of us was burdened with _plata_, and we had no
+more effective weapons than our jack-knives.
+
+As a national vessel had been ordered to the coast of Patagonia for my
+relief, I thought it my duty to report myself the next day to the
+American consul, who was much interested by the recital of my
+experience. The brig Ann and Julia, Captain McAlister, of New Orleans,
+came into port a day or two after. Captain McAlister said that the
+Vandalia came into Rio Janeiro while he was there, shipped more men, and
+sailed southward in great haste.
+
+Having obtained wood and water and other necessary supplies, we put out
+to sea once more. I must not omit to record the kindness shown, and the
+still greater kindness tendered me, by the captain of the Sarah, and all
+the members of the company. They offered me a free passage and any
+assistance I might need on arrival in California; but the generosity of
+Captain Morton had supplied all present needs, and, with all gratitude
+for their proffered aid, I was not willing to tax their bounty in
+advance. We stood well to the westward before crossing the line, as only
+light winds can be expected before reaching from five to seven degrees
+of north or south latitude, when the trade-winds set in. We had a
+passage of thirty-seven days from Callao to San Francisco, which was in
+very good time, considering the sailing qualities of our vessel. We
+anchored in the beautiful harbor, February 19, 1850, one year and seven
+days from the date of my leaving New Bedford.
+
+Any description of San Francisco would be altogether superfluous, as her
+streets, even, are familiar in the states as household words. I found,
+upon going ashore, letters from those most dear to me, which had long
+awaited my arrival; also one from a brother then in California. He
+stated that immediately on hearing of my misfortunes he started for San
+Francisco to see Commodore Jones, then on that station, and endeavor to
+induce him to make an effort for my release. On making his business
+known, the gallant commodore informed him that he had already heard of
+it, and had despatched the sloop-of-war Levant for my rescue, in the
+full confidence that the enterprise would be successful. When I was
+telling the Indian council that flourishing story of my consequence at
+home, and of the big ships and little ships, the big guns and little
+guns, that were at my command, ready to avenge any mischief they might
+do me, I little thought how literally the action of our government, and
+the spontaneous kindness of Commodore Jones, were verifying my words.
+The sympathy manifested in my behalf by the gallant commodore deserves
+more than this passing notice. My brother also left a deposit of funds
+against my arrival, if it ever occurred, of the probability of which he
+was in some doubt; also his address, and that of another brother, who
+was then at the mines. I could learn but little as to the fate of my
+vessel, or of my effects on board, except that she had duly arrived
+there, and, after much disagreement and dispute among the company, had
+been sold for a trifle above the costs of repair on the passage. This
+operation, I thought, savored little of Yankee shrewdness; since we
+arrived at a later date, with a vessel of about the same size, age and
+value, at a time when shipping was in less demand, and sold her for
+nearly three times the amount. I was happy to meet many acquaintances,
+who gave me a hearty welcome, and showed me kindness I can never forget.
+
+The schooner J. Pringle, from which we parted on issuing from the
+Straits of Magellan, arrived in port very soon after us, having touched
+at Valparaiso. Her captain said that he found the sloop-of-war Vandalia
+at Valparaiso, to obtain chains and an anchor, as she had lost one
+anchor and one hundred and thirty fathoms of chain in Possession Bay,
+and was obliged to double Cape Horn. She was to sail again for Patagonia
+as soon as the damages were repaired, entering the western mouth of the
+straits. Captain B. reported my escape, and that I was safe on board the
+Hopewell, for California, informing the officers that he parted company
+with me at Mercy Harbor--intelligence that was received with
+demonstrations of lively pleasure.
+
+Being unable to obtain any information of my personal effects, left on
+the John Allyne, I left this mushroom city on the third day after my
+arrival, and took passage in the steamer Senator for Sacramento, at the
+moderate fare of _twenty-five dollars_ for a passage of a few hours'
+duration. I found this city of rag houses full of the indications of its
+recent and rapid settlement. The streets abounded in mud, a foot or more
+in depth. Here I recovered my chest, but the trunks containing my
+clothing were missing. Our company, it appeared, had broken up, and its
+members were dispersed hither and thither in the mines, every man for
+himself. My brothers, as near as I could ascertain, were seventy miles
+distant, possibly removed to the Middle Fork of the American river, and
+I decided to start on foot. Accordingly, having purchased, at enormous
+prices, a pair of red flannel blankets, thick boots, a rifle and
+revolver, and other necessary equipments, I set out for the mines the
+next morning, in company with two or three persons from the States. The
+road was exceedingly muddy, but materially improved after passing
+Sutter's Fort. We had travelled ten miles, when I found that my feet
+were so badly blistered that I could proceed no further, and advised my
+companions to go on without me. My feet were in fact almost completely
+skinned. After resting at a public-house till the next morning, and
+encasing my sore feet in a pair of poor, thin shoes, I pursued my
+journey. I made very slow progress. An ox-team overtook me, the owner of
+which kept a house, or, more properly speaking, a booth, for boarding
+and lodging miners, five or six miles ahead. He kindly offered me a
+ride, which I gladly accepted, and lodged with him for the night.
+
+My journey the next day was less fatiguing; on the day following I
+arrived at Georgetown, where I found that my brothers had built them a
+house and spent the winter, but had now left the place, and removed to
+the Middle Fork. The distance was twenty miles by one route and fifteen
+by another. The longest road was considered the best, and I followed it,
+lodging at night in a low grog-shop, denominated an inn. A snow-storm
+detained me here during the next forenoon. By noon it appeared to have
+cleared up, and I resumed my march, but had not gone more than a mile
+before it began snowing again, as fast as before; yet I was resolved not
+to turn back. The snow, however, fell so fast, and with increasing
+violence, and the road was so wretched, that this resolution was
+somewhat shaken. The way led through a forest of lofty pines, the land
+broken by deep _gulches_ and high hills. As I trudged along through the
+deep snow, my attention was suddenly attracted to a clump of bushes by
+the wayside, that appeared to wave to and fro, as if agitated by
+something more than wind. I felt for my knife and pistol, to make sure
+they were where they could be made immediately available, placed my hand
+on the lock of my rifle, and awaited in silence the approach of my
+unseen visitor. Presently a pair of large, glistening eyes glared at me
+through an opening in the bushes. Nothing else was discernible; the
+form, and even the head, of the animal to whom these fierce optics
+appertained, could not be made out. But their gaze was fixed steadily
+upon me, and I returned it with equal steadiness, if not equal
+brilliancy and effect, without once changing my position. I had heard of
+looking wild animals out of countenance, and determined to try the
+experiment, before resorting to any other decisive measures. After
+gazing fixedly at the mysterious occupant of the thicket for a few
+minutes, he turned and walked leisurely away, giving me only an
+imperfect view of his figure. So far as I could distinguish the shape,
+it appeared to be a grisly bear, though not of the largest size. I was
+glad to get rid of so ugly a customer on such easy terms, and went on my
+way rejoicing, though it was a weary and desolate one.
+
+Being very much fatigued, I halted at the foot of a large oak-tree, as
+the shades of evening were closing around me, with the design of
+climbing it, and spending the night as comfortably as I could in its
+branches,--the lodging that I had anticipated might be the only
+available one. But, after a few minutes' rest, I roused my flagging
+energies and concluded to feel--for I could not see--my way a little
+further, before _roosting_ for the night. The darkness of the night,
+deepened by the storm, hid the path so effectually, that the Yankee
+faculty of _guessing_ was called into abundant exercise. I trudged
+along, however, with dogged determination, which was very soon rewarded.
+Half a mile had scarcely been passed, when a bright light greeted me,
+issuing from a tent. Walking up to it, I found it occupied by three men,
+emigrants from the vicinity of my native place. They cordially welcomed
+and hospitably entertained me, on learning who I was, and promised me
+every assistance in their power.
+
+The next morning I set out again, and reached the river. I was at no
+loss to designate the spot where my brothers were likely to be found,
+but a formidable barrier interposed: a rapid and swollen stream
+separated us, just as we were almost within speaking distance. I walked
+along the shore to find a log or some wood with which to construct a
+float; nothing could be found. It was a grievous disappointment; my evil
+star, I thought, had not yet waned. At the opposite shore, fastened to
+the branch of a tree, lay a snug little raft, as if in mockery. I must
+spend the night, it seemed, on the river banks, without food or shelter,
+and within sight of my friends. Just before night I was fortunate enough
+to descry a man on the further shore, who appeared to be on the look-out
+for some one, and hailed him. He answered, and forthwith took me over. I
+was soon in the presence of my two brothers, neither of whom at first
+recognized me. It was a happy meeting, and on their part wholly
+unexpected, as they had given me up for lost. After many congratulations
+and innumerable questions, rapidly interchanged, I mentioned the
+difficulty I had in making the last stage of the journey to them,--the
+passage of the river. They said that they were on the look-out that
+evening for one of their number: otherwise, I might have staid there a
+week without attracting the attention of anybody. They congratulated me
+on my ill success in searching for a log, or the materials to construct
+a float. The attempt to cross would have been extremely hazardous, and
+very likely fatal. The river was full of rapids, eccentric currents, and
+other perils, making it at all times difficult to cross, with the best
+facilities that could be commanded. Of all this I had ample confirmation
+in no long time after. Two men started to paddle themselves over in a
+canoe at the same place. Before they reached the opposite shore, their
+canoe was borne down the stream into the rapids, and dashed to pieces
+against the rocks. One of them was drowned; the other caught the top of
+a small tree just before reaching the rapids. By collecting all the
+ropes and lines we could find, attaching a stone to one end and throwing
+it within his reach, the means of rescue, after several trials, were put
+into his power. Such was the roar of the waters we could not speak in
+tones audible by him, but made signs to him to secure the rope about his
+body, and he was drawn to the shore in safety. A similar accident
+afterwards happened to one of my brothers, in attempting to cross with
+another man upon a raft. The swift current drifted them within the power
+of the rapids, and it was only by the greatest exertions that they
+escaped the boiling abyss below.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered.
+
+
+On my arrival at the mines, I found my brothers engaged in a company of
+twenty men, organized for the purpose of tunnelling a mountain ridge,
+and digging a raceway at its base, with a view to dam the river and turn
+it through the tunnel. By this means the bed of the river, for a mile or
+more, would be laid bare, and gold in great profusion, it was believed,
+would be discovered. Nineteen of the members were on the ground; the
+twentieth was unable to come; and, though there were several applicants
+for the vacancy, I was chosen to fill it. We commenced operations in
+about a week. It may give a clearer idea of the magnitude of the work,
+to state that an excavation, twelve feet wide by seven deep, was made,
+by blasting through rock (slate and granite) a distance of over a
+hundred feet. The race was nearly half a mile in length; the prices paid
+for every article of food were enormous. Before turning the river, we
+let out the expected field of gold to be worked by seven hundred men,
+who were to give us one-half of the produce; there was great
+expectation. The work was the greatest of this nature that had yet been
+undertaken in California; we had worked hard through a whole season, and
+brought it to a successful completion, without any fatal accident,
+though several dangerous circumstances had threatened to retard its
+progress. Everything being prepared, the dam was closed, the river
+rose,--pressed, as if angrily, against the new barrier that opposed its
+wonted flow,--and then sullenly explored the novel course that solicited
+its waters. The dry channel was eagerly attacked; but, alas for human
+hopes! it proved to be anything but rich; in fact, it was less favorable
+for working than the average, and the diggers abandoned the spot,
+leaving the company chagrined, and greatly disheartened at their
+fruitless conclusion.
+
+I came very near being delivered from this disappointment, and from all
+other earthly cares,--those of authorship included,--by a hasty trip
+into the rapids. During the intervals of our work, a young man of the
+company undertook with me to construct a canoe, and establish a ferry
+for passengers across the river. Our skiff, on its completion, was
+carried by all hands to the river bank, and committed to the stream,
+with all the ceremonies customary on the launching of larger craft. A
+successful adventure was made, the next day, with one passenger. On the
+following day six miners applied for passage; I took half of them on
+board, with their picks, pans and shovels, and started with them. We had
+approached within ten feet of the opposite bank, when a counter-current
+suddenly struck us, whirled the head of the boat from the direction of
+the shore, and, in spite of the utmost exertion, carried us into the
+stream, and almost over the rapids. By a successful manoeuvre we
+turned her head up stream, and paddled moderately till we had passed the
+dangerous spot. At length, after a great struggle with imminent danger,
+in the midst of which the passengers were praying and crying for mercy
+and help, we reached some trees, standing in the swollen stream. By
+taking hold of one of the branches the boat was brought to, but with
+such violence as to dash in her side; we sprang safely into the trees as
+soon as the boat struck. Our friends on shore cut poles, and extended
+them to us, by help of which we were soon on terra firma. Our boat
+rolled over, and sunk. An attack of dysentery soon after interrupted my
+work, but not for a great length of time.
+
+After the failure of our river speculation, I spent some time
+"prospecting" for a desirable "digging." Before one was discovered that
+offered much inducement, I was again prostrated by illness, during which
+my brothers joined me, with the mournful intelligence that my little son
+was no more! These heavy tidings, at such a time, proved almost too much
+for an enfeebled body and anxious mind; it was the thought of my little
+family that nerved my spirit against despair, in the darkest hours of
+captivity. A blow _there_ turned my strength into weakness, and my
+weakness well-nigh into absolute helplessness.
+
+It would be too far from the purpose of this volume to solicit the
+reader's company through all my wanderings for a year and a half in this
+wonderful country, to which so many high hopes are carried, and from
+which so many sad disappointments are daily borne. It is enough to say
+that I had six successive attacks of sickness, the last the most severe
+of all; I was brought to death's door, and had little hope of seeing
+home again. After a month's illness, my medical attendant advised a
+return to the States, as soon as I could bear the exercise of riding. At
+the earliest day prudence would allow, I was carried, with all
+practicable care, to Sacramento, a city I had not seen since I passed
+through it a year and a half before. Its appearance was greatly improved
+in every respect. With the increased supply of necessaries and
+conveniences, the fabulous prices of eighteen months before had given
+place to more sober, authentic, and matter-of-fact demands; steamboat
+fare had fallen from twenty-five dollars to one, and the crowding and
+shouting of runners compared with the most active scenes of the kind to
+be witnessed in New York or Albany. We arrived at San Francisco during
+the night; as the day dawned, and the mist that covered the town was
+lifted, the spectacle that met the view was like enchantment; a compact
+and well-built city had risen, its beautiful harbor lined with extensive
+wharves, spacious warehouses, and elegant dwellings, fronting upon broad
+streets, and all appliances of business and pleasure offering themselves
+in profusion.
+
+I walked to the nearest hotel, as I was too feeble to go a hundred
+yards. The friend who accompanied me, and took upon himself all care of
+the voyage in respect to both of us, found that the steamers were
+crowded to the utmost, and engaged passage in a bark for San Juan del
+Sud, or Panama. We examined the printed bill of fare, and thought it
+would be very satisfactory, if its promises were fulfilled. I noticed,
+however, that the potatoes on board were of bad quality, and suggested
+the propriety of raising a committee of passengers to investigate the
+stores; but the motion was overruled as unnecessary.
+
+We put to sea with about a hundred and thirty passengers, many of whom
+suffered severely from sea-sickness. These improved in a few days, and
+began to feel like eating; but, to their consternation, instead of
+wholesome provisions and fresh water, nothing was to be had but spoiled
+meat, and water that was unfit to drink, having been put up in old
+beer-casks and become tainted,--and a short allowance of that. We were
+stinted to three pints a day each for drinking and culinary purposes.
+The only wholesome and eatable articles of food were pork, bread and
+dried apples. Tea and coffee were too wretched to be used. Those
+wiseacres who had so summarily declined any examination of the
+provisions before starting now came to me with very long faces,
+confessing their error when it was too late to be remedied. For
+forty-eight days they languished on this miserable fare. There were many
+quarrels and contentions on board, growing out of these difficulties,
+and some cases of sickness. We buried two men at sea and one the day
+after our arrival in port; and the whole company, in fact, were little
+better than skeletons when they reached San Juan. As to myself, my
+appetite craved but little food, and the sea air agreed so well with me
+that I had almost recovered on arrival there.
+
+We mounted mules on the following day, and crossed to Lake Nicaragua,
+which we reached just too late for the steamer. Some of the company went
+up the lake and procured small sail to take them across, but I decided
+to remain till the arrival of another regular steamer from San
+Francisco. This detained us two weeks, when we proceeded to Georgetown,
+on the Atlantic shore, and took passage on board the steamer Daniel
+Webster, for New York, _via_ Havana. As we passed out of the harbor a
+salute was fired for the United States steamer Saranac, then visiting
+that port to investigate the affair of the British brig Express firing
+into one of our steamers a short time before, on account of a refusal to
+pay certain port charges. When fairly outside the bar, the tables were
+set, and the hungry passengers had begun fortifying their stomachs with
+eager emulation, when I perceived a commotion among the officers and men
+betokening something wrong. Presently the head pump was working lively,
+and the men appeared, running with buckets of water. To the questions
+rained upon them they made no reply, but hastened along in silence. The
+boat had taken fire, but it was promptly extinguished before many of the
+passengers suspected it.
+
+On arrival at Havana we anchored, after dark, under the walls of the
+fort, and our fires were allowed to go out. During the night a breeze
+sprung up, producing a swell in the harbor, which rendered our position
+a dangerous one, as there was not room for the boat to swing around
+clear of the rocks. The passengers all felt extremely anxious for their
+safety; but the fires were renewed, sufficient steam was soon generated
+to work the ponderous engine, the steamer swung slowly and safely
+around, and we were safe. The Spanish guard-boats ordered us back to our
+first anchorage, but the captain replied that he was master of the
+vessel and should put her in a place of safety.
+
+The next morning we took in coal and started for New York. I was seized,
+on the following day, for the first time in my life, with chills and
+fever, but partially recovered, under care of the ship's physician,
+before arriving in port. We made New York without accident, and having
+spent two days in the city, the steamer State of Maine bore me to my
+home, January 13th, 1852,--after an absence of three years, lacking a
+month,--with a heart rising gratefully to God for his many
+interpositions in my behalf, to deliver me from the perils of the sea
+and the perils of the land.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It can scarcely be necessary, for the benefit of any reader who has
+followed me through the course of this narrative, to add any remarks on
+the hazards of visiting Patagonia, or the consequences likely to ensue
+in the event of shipwreck on that desolate coast. The land is dreary,
+and it were a sufficient trial of fortitude to be cast away upon it,--to
+run the imminent risk of perishing by cold, and hunger and thirst. But
+the extremest peril arising from the poverty of the country is
+exhilarating, compared with the tender mercies of the people. Rather
+than trust to their protection, better hide from the light of day and
+gnaw the bark of stunted trees for food, drinking, as I did, from the
+briny sea. The dread which has deterred voyagers from entering the
+country, or even touching the shore, unless armed to the teeth, offering
+articles of traffic with one hand and holding a loaded musket in the
+other, is no more than reasonable. I do not know that the country has
+ever been explored by civilized man. The officers and men of the
+Adventure and Beagle, two ships sent out by the British Admiralty to
+survey the Straits of Magellan in the years 1826, 1830, 1832 and 1834,
+examined and penetrated the country to a greater extent than any other
+voyagers.
+
+If the other tribes inhabiting the country resemble that with which I
+was domesticated, it must be a hazardous enterprise for missionaries to
+attempt the propagation of the gospel among them. Even apart from this,
+the difficulty of gaining a subsistence there must prove an almost
+insuperable obstacle. The barrenness of the soil, and the want of water,
+render agriculture a desperate resource, and there is no spontaneous
+product of the earth to sustain life. To live like the savages would be
+simply impossible to men who have been habituated to the comforts of
+civilized life; I could not have survived many months of such hardship.
+Provisions would have to be imported; this difficulty seems sufficient
+to discourage, if not to prevent, efforts in that direction. When, to
+this, we add the cruelty, the duplicity, the treachery and
+blood-thirstiness of the people, I am unable to conjecture through what
+direct agency they can be reached by the influences of Christianity.
+Whether access to them could be gained through their Spanish American
+neighbors, or by enticing some of them, when young, into a more
+civilized society, and so opening an avenue of peaceable and beneficial
+intercourse, it is not easy to conclude, without actual experiment.
+
+Since returning to this country, these views have been confirmed, by the
+narrative recently published of the sad fate of the English missionaries
+sent to Patagonia. Captain Gardiner, and three or four Cornish
+fishermen, who volunteered for this labor of love, were landed by a
+passing vessel somewhere, on the inhospitable coast. So inveterate was
+the hostility of the natives, they durst not trust themselves among
+them; they were driven, in their covered barges, from place to place;
+like their Master, having not, on the land, where to lay their heads.
+Arrangements had been made, before leaving England, to have provisions
+follow them; thirty-six barrels of provisions, destined for them, were
+found some time after, by a government vessel, at the Falkland Islands.
+The commander took them on board, and sailed for the place of their
+destination; upon their first landing, traces of the unfortunate men
+were found; and, on thorough search, directions were discovered to look
+for them at another place. They were followed from one stopping-place to
+another, till the grave of one of them was found, who had died of
+starvation. The survivors were traced to a spot where their boats lay on
+the shore, unoccupied; at a little distance off lay their bodies,
+unburied, their bones bleaching on the sand. The humane discoverers
+buried their remains. On lifting a stone from the mouth of a cave, there
+was disclosed a narrative of their sufferings, and of successive deaths,
+written by Captain Gardiner; at the date of the last entry he had not
+tasted food for four days. In all probability, he shared the fate of his
+brethren,--starvation,--and with him closed their melancholy history. A
+sad tale! Yet there were days and weeks when I would have gladly
+exchanged my lot for wanderings like theirs, upon the desert shore. But
+from those horrors I was mercifully delivered; they, in the prosecution
+of a sacred and benevolent errand, were cut down by the dispensation of
+Him who seeth not as man seeth.
+
+It may occur to some reader that the deceptions I practised upon the
+natives, as frankly narrated, had a tendency to impair their confidence
+in white men, and thus to increase the difficulty of reaching them by
+Christian influences, and to render the lot of any poor man hereafter
+falling into their hands more desperate than it would otherwise be.
+Perhaps so; yet the danger does not seem so imminent, when we consider
+that they are entire strangers to truth. Probably no Patagonian's
+experience or observation could furnish an example of consistent
+veracity, and they would not be likely to suspect the existence of such
+a virtue in any one. It is apparent, from their behavior in the "last
+scene of all" with me, that from first to last they vehemently
+mistrusted my statements; and their most likely comment on the report of
+the chief must have been, "I told you so." The shock was less than if
+they had reposed a more generous confidence.
+
+The notoriety which was given to my capture by the newspaper press
+called forth many expressions of sympathy from persons who knew nothing
+of me, except that I was a fellow-being in distress. To all such I
+tender my thanks. It is a grateful duty, in parting company with the
+reader, to renew the expression of thankful remembrance with which I
+recall the benefactors who, under God, rescued and befriended me,--Mr.
+Hall, and the noble-hearted captains, who fed and clothed me when hungry
+and naked, and conveyed me gratuitously to my destination. Nor can I
+forget the prompt action of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, the
+efficient exertions of the officers of the Vandalia, or the generosity
+of Commodore Jones. I would also acknowledge, with the liveliest
+gratitude, my obligations to the Hon. Daniel Webster,[A] the Hon. R. C.
+Winthrop, the Hon. George Evans, of Maine, and to the Hon. Joseph
+Grinnell, and the Hon. John H. Clifford, of New Bedford;--all of whom,
+when informed of my captivity, volunteered their aid, and made those
+representations to the Navy department which resulted in the despatch of
+the Vandalia on her humane mission. Nor must I omit to add my thanks to
+Mr. Denison, who kindly bore their memorials to Washington, and laid
+them before the department. If I acquired nothing more by my
+unlooked-for experience, I at least gained a warmer patriotism, and a
+profounder sense of the benignant wisdom of Providence.
+
+     [A] Since this was written he has passed beyond the reach of my
+     thanks; but this fact cannot suppress the utterance of gratitude
+     which I owe to his august memory.
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Captive in Patagonia, by 
+Benjamin Franklin Bourne
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Captive in Patagonia, by Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Captive in Patagonia
+
+Author: Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+Release Date: December 25, 2011 [EBook #38408]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:465px" src="images/illus001.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">HUNTING THE GUANACHO. See p.70.</td></tr></table>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<h1>THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA;</h1>
+<p class="center f80">OR,</p>
+<p class="center f150">LIFE AMONG THE GIANTS.</p>
+
+<p class="center f80">A</p>
+<p class="center">PERSONAL NARRATIVE.</p>
+
+<p class="center f80">BY</p>
+<p class="center f150">BENJAMIN FRANKLIN BOURNE.</p>
+
+<p class="center">With Illustrations.</p>
+
+<p class="center">BOSTON:<br />
+GOULD AND LINCOLN,</p>
+<p class="center f80">59 WASHINGTON STREET.</p>
+<p class="center">1853.</p>
+<hr class="art" />
+<p class="center">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by
+GOULD &amp; LINCOLN,
+In the Clerk&rsquo;s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.</p>
+
+<p class="center f80">STEREOTYPED BY</p>
+<p class="center">HOBART &amp; ROBBINS,</p>
+<p class="center f80">NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,</p>
+<p class="center">BOSTON.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">PREFACE.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>Book-making is so much of a trade, that it may be
+thought quite unnecessary to be at the trouble to assign
+reasons for embarking in it; but, as it is not my own
+vocation, it will be allowed me to say, that the deep
+interest which many, not only of my personal friends,
+but others whom I never saw, have taken in my fortunes,
+and the desires expressed, both verbally and by
+letter, to know more of my adventures than was communicated
+through the newspapers, overcame the reluctance
+I felt to undertake such a task. The interest of
+personal adventure, however, great as it might be in immediate
+view of the events while they were fresh, would
+not alone have been presumed upon as a sufficient attraction
+for this volume. But the strangeness of the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span>
+observed, and the deficiency of exact information concerning
+its people, it was thought, would make welcome
+any contribution, however slight, to the knowledge of
+this section of our world and race. After the contradictory
+statements of voyagers as to the &ldquo;giants&rdquo; of
+South America, there may be some curiosity to hear
+the testimony of one who has &ldquo;seen the elephant&rdquo;
+under circumstances that enabled him to measure its
+proboscis.</p>
+
+<p>My story is a plain one,&mdash;a simple record of facts,
+but not, I would hope, tedious. It offers no feats of
+literary agility for the critic&rsquo;s inspection, but a recital
+of human experiences and observations, sufficiently aside
+from the beaten track of life to have attracted a degree
+of attention which flatters me with the belief that they
+will repay a nearer and more minute survey.</p>
+<hr class="art" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CONTENTS.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER I.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">For California&mdash;Pernambuco&mdash;Straits of Magellan&mdash;Trading with Patagonians&mdash;Their
+treachery&mdash;Four men made prisoners by them&mdash;Three
+escape; the author detained, with promises of release on paying ransom&mdash;Indian
+village&mdash;The chief and his household&mdash;Eating, sleeping,
+and adventure in a Patagonian wigwam&mdash;Find myself booked for
+an indefinite residence in Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon
+<span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER II.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived&mdash;&ldquo;Holland&rdquo;&mdash;Discovery of
+vessels in the straits&mdash;Double disappointment&mdash;A crisis&mdash;Survey of
+Patagonia&mdash;Scanty vegetation&mdash;Animals and birds&mdash;Climate&mdash;The
+people&mdash;Their habits and character&mdash;Domestic relations&mdash;Weapons&mdash;Government&mdash;Superstition&mdash;Cannibalism&mdash;Their
+reputation abroad <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxii" id="Page_xxii">[Pg xxii]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER III.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Hard journey&mdash;Encampment&mdash;Division of the tribe&mdash;My new guardian&mdash;Story
+of the capture of a British vessel&mdash;Re&uuml;nion&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Culinary
+arts&mdash;Hunting&mdash;Symptoms of danger&mdash;Mutual deceptions&mdash;Tough
+yarns&mdash;The fatal ring&mdash;An effective oration&mdash;Indecision of
+the Indians <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER IV.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Corey Inlet&mdash;Another disappointment&mdash;A hunting frolic with an unpleasant
+termination&mdash;Moving of the camp&mdash;Aimless wanderings&mdash;Alarm&mdash;A
+marriage treaty and an unsuccessful suitor&mdash;Laws of marriage&mdash;Qualifications
+of a husband&mdash;Feminine quarrels&mdash;A marriage
+in high life&mdash;Dressing meat&mdash;Profaneness&mdash;Absence of religious
+ideas&mdash;Mysterious ceremony&mdash;Reasons for abstaining from religious
+instruction&mdash;The metals&mdash;State of the arts in Patagonia&mdash;Tailoring
+Fashion <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER V.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Inclement weather&mdash;State of my wardrobe&mdash;Attempts to deprive me of
+my clothes&mdash;Powwow and horse-killing&mdash;Hair-combing extraordinary&mdash;Remedy
+for rheumatism&mdash;Sickness&mdash;Turn barber&mdash;A cold bath&mdash;Fasting&mdash;Discovery
+of my watch, and its effect&mdash;I am made
+showman&mdash;Lion-hunt&mdash;Successful chase <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VI.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">The chief&rsquo;s oratory&mdash;A case of sickness novelly treated&mdash;The captive
+commissioned as physician to the chief&mdash;Dr. Bourne&rsquo;s first and last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiii" id="Page_xxiii">[Pg xxiii]</a></span>
+patient&mdash;Murder&mdash;Cannibalism&mdash;Another assassination, showing the
+perils of medical practice among savages&mdash;Sports of the children&mdash;Patagonian
+farriery&mdash;Slender success in the chase&mdash;A second struggle
+for life <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A new torture&mdash;Bloody gossip&mdash;An explosion nearly fatal&mdash;Plea of insanity&mdash;Reconciliation&mdash;River
+Santa Cruz&mdash;Naval architecture&mdash;Original
+mode of ferrying&mdash;Accident&mdash;Ominous demonstrations thereupon&mdash;Perilous
+superstition&mdash;Plans of escape&mdash;The chief fighting his
+battles over again&mdash;Prospects brighten&mdash;A blind hint to naturalists <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER VIII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Retrograde march&mdash;A look-out ahead&mdash;New specimens of birds observed&mdash;To
+the right again&mdash;Large inducements to visit Holland&mdash;Apparent
+effect&mdash;Council&mdash;Other tribes of Indians&mdash;Story of a battle&mdash;Capture
+of wild horses&mdash;A royal speech worth hearing&mdash;Deputation
+to Holland&mdash;A start and a sudden halt&mdash;Journey commenced
+in earnest&mdash;Order of arrangements&mdash;First view of Holland&mdash;A
+weary day and night&mdash;A boat&mdash;A short parley&mdash;Swimming for life
+and liberty&mdash;A rescue&mdash;Farewell to Patagonia <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER IX.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A civilized meal&mdash;A happy evening&mdash;A survey of the island&mdash;Preparation
+of guano&mdash;Preparations against invasion by the giants&mdash;A proposal
+to attack them&mdash;Loyalty and revenge&mdash;Killing time&mdash;Trouble<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiv" id="Page_xxiv">[Pg xxiv]</a></span>
+in the settlement&mdash;A disagreeable situation&mdash;Arrival of vessels&mdash;Countrymen&mdash;A
+welcome by new friends <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER X.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A Christian ship-master&mdash;Cruise for whales, and for a California-bound
+vessel&mdash;An outlandish craft&mdash;An American vessel&mdash;Passage secured
+for California&mdash;Tempestuous passage through the Straits of Magellan&mdash;Warlike
+demonstrations, with an inglorious issue&mdash;Chilian penal
+settlement&mdash;Pleasing reception&mdash;Extensive coal-mine&mdash;Sea-lions&mdash;Mutiny
+of the convicts, and awful fate of the governor and chaplain <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER XI.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Port Famine&mdash;St. Nicholas&rsquo; Bay, and its inscriptions&mdash;Politeness of the
+Indians declined&mdash;Difficulty of navigating the straits&mdash;A post-bag in
+a bottle&mdash;An English steamer, and its humane errand&mdash;Exertions of
+the British government to rescue prisoners in Patagonia&mdash;American
+schooner&mdash;Celebration of our safe passage through the straits&mdash;Juan
+Fernandez&mdash;News from home&mdash;A chapter of accidents&mdash;A trip to
+Lima&mdash;Almost an adventure&mdash;Arrival at San Francisco&mdash;Journey to
+the mines&mdash;A happy meeting <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap1">CHAPTER XII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result&mdash;Perils of waters&mdash;Sickness
+and bereavement&mdash;Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco&mdash;Voyage
+homeward&mdash;Imposition on shipboard&mdash;Panama&mdash;Havana&mdash;Home&mdash;Concluding
+observations&mdash;Practicability of Christian missions
+in Patagonia considered <span class="chappg"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center chap">THE<br />
+CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA.</p>
+<hr class="short" />
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER I.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">
+For California&mdash;Pernambuco&mdash;Straits of Magellan&mdash;Trading with Patagonians&mdash;Their
+treachery&mdash;Four men made prisoners by them&mdash;Three
+escape; the author detained, with promises of release on paying ransom&mdash;Indian
+village&mdash;The chief and his household&mdash;Eating, sleeping,
+and adventure in a Patagonian wigwam&mdash;Find myself booked for
+an indefinite residence in Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon.</p>
+
+<p>Among the early subjects of the &ldquo;gold fever&rdquo; that became
+epidemic in the autumn and winter of 1848-9, a company
+of twenty-five men left the port of New Bedford in
+the schooner John Allyne, A. Brownell, master, and B. F.
+Bourne, mate, for California. The vessel had been selected
+for her good sailing qualities, light draught of
+water, and general fitness for river navigation. In the
+haste and excitement of the time, California-bound craft
+carried out some rather motley companies; but we considered
+ourselves fortunate in the character of the men associated
+in this enterprise, and were organized on such principles
+of equality as seemed to promise entire harmony and
+good fellowship. Of course we had high and golden hopes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+and our great object was to reach the new Ophir in the
+easiest and most expeditious manner. On account of the
+delays and dangers incident to the doubling of Cape Horn,
+it was determined to attempt the passage of the Straits
+of Magellan.</p>
+
+<p>We left port on the 13th of February, and for many
+days our time passed pleasantly, but rather monotonously,
+with nothing greatly to exhilarate or to depress our spirits.
+It was discovered, at length, that our vessel needed
+some running rigging. The more impatient were for going
+on, and making such headway as we could without it; but
+a majority of the company decided to run for the nearest
+convenient port, and replenish. We accordingly ran for
+Pernambuco, and anchored in the outer harbor on the 25th
+of March. The beauty and security of this harbor are
+remarkable. It is defended from the sea by a nearly perpendicular
+reef, extending three-fourths of the way across
+its entrance, with an opening of ample width for the
+passage of vessels to a safe anchorage. Being but eight
+degrees south of the equator, the town lies continually
+under the burning rays of a tropical sun. Its appearance
+is like that of most Spanish and Portuguese cities, abounding
+in high and massive buildings, with more of the castle
+than of the counting-house or dwelling in their outward
+expression, built upon narrow, irregular streets, that are
+constantly alive with men and beasts of divers colors and
+forms. Men from the country, driving their mustangs,
+mules and asses, laden with produce; wealthy and noble citizens
+borne by servants in palanquins; women bearing
+water in buckets, tubs and urns, which they balance on
+their heads without the aid of their hands, and walk off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+under as erect as so many midshipmen;&mdash;all the sights
+and sounds have a pleasant strangeness, that made our
+visits on shore highly agreeable. The churches, which are
+quite numerous, have nothing admirable or attractive outside,
+but the richness of their interior decoration testifies
+to the prevailing orthodoxy and fervor of devotion to the
+Church of Rome. The church is, indeed, the grand receptacle
+of the wealth of the country. Every <i>bueno cat&oacute;lico</i>
+of them, rich, or poor, will sooner stint himself and his family
+in their daily comforts, or even necessaries of life, than
+omit his due contribution to mother church.</p>
+
+<p>Our stay at Pernambuco was short, which must excuse
+a more particular description of its notabilities. Having
+obtained the articles we needed, we stood out to sea.
+Nothing occurred on our passage to the straits worthy of
+particular record. We spoke one or two vessels, and
+spent some time &ldquo;gaming&rdquo; with them,&mdash;the nautical
+phrase for visiting. On the 30th of April we made Cape
+Virgin, and stood in for the Straits of Magellan. In company
+with us, and bound for the same golden country, by
+the same course as ourselves, were bark Hebe, of Baltimore,
+and schooner J. B. Gager, of New York. We were
+becalmed off the mouth of the straits for several hours,
+and Captain Brownell visited the Hebe. He returned just
+before night. A fair wind setting in from the eastward,
+we all stood in, the J. B. Gager, as being best acquainted
+with the navigation, taking the lead. The three vessels
+anchored about midnight, within twelve miles of the first
+narrows.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, it being calm, some of our men went
+on shore in the small boat, for a gunning excursion. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+returned early in the forenoon, with a large number of sea-fowl.
+Not long after, Captain Brownell announced his
+intention to go ashore, and commenced making preparations.
+He soon changed his mind, however, and asked me
+to go, in his stead, to procure some fresh provisions, if they
+were to be had. Knowing, from the reports of whalers
+and others, something of the savage character of the
+natives, I felt reluctant to venture; but afterwards, to
+oblige the captain, I complied.</p>
+
+<p>Taking our guns, a bag of bread, and some tobacco, four
+of us started for the shore. As we approached the beach,
+a crowd of black-looking giants came to the water&rsquo;s edge to
+gaze at us. We did not particularly fancy their looks, and
+lay on our oars for a considerable length of time. A recollection
+of the many ugly stories current about the Patagonians,
+their barbarous and cruel character, did not
+greatly fortify our confidence, or make us especially anxious
+for a personal acquaintance with them. We accordingly
+lay off in our boat, and, hailing them in Spanish,
+asked them if they had eggs, fowls, and beef. They replied,
+in broken Spanish, that they had plenty at their
+houses. I told them to produce their stores, and they
+should have plenty of bread in exchange. We parleyed
+with them for some time, till our boat at length touched the
+shore. I stood in the boat&rsquo;s stern, gun in hand, endeavoring
+to keep the natives from stealing, and warned the men
+not to leave the boat. They jumped ashore, promising not
+to stray from the spot. The Indians offered some skins
+for sale, which I paid for in bread. While my attention
+was diverted from them by this barter, the Indians were
+coaxing my men away. I looked about, and found only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+one man near me. He was despatched in pursuit of the
+others, and directed to bring them without delay. The tide
+at this point rises and falls forty-two feet. It was now
+ebb tide, the boat was fast grounding, and, it being large
+and heavily loaded, I was unable to get it off. The old
+chief and several other Indians crowded into it, and once in
+could not be got out. Persuasion was useless, and they were
+too many to be driven. In short, I was in their hands, and
+became immediately conscious of the difficulty and peril of
+my situation;&mdash;my men gone, I knew not where, the
+boat fast aground and crowded with the savages, while
+nearly a thousand of the tribe congregated upon the beach.
+What was before me, at the worst, I could only conjecture
+from report; and nothing but evil was reported of the creatures
+that surrounded me. What could I do? A question
+easier asked than answered.</p>
+
+<p>After a long time, or what seemed such under circumstances
+that made minutes seem ages, one of my men came
+down, and asked permission to go to the Indian village,
+&ldquo;a little way back from the shore,&rdquo; as they had been
+promised meat, eggs, and fowls. I ordered him to come
+immediately back to the boat. He persisted in urging
+his request, but it was so dangerously absurd that I absolutely
+refused. He then said he would inform his comrades
+of my refusal, and return immediately to the boat;
+but, for some cause, they seemed in no hurry to obey orders.
+Weary of waiting for them, and not without apprehension,
+I asked an Indian for the use of his horse, and
+rode with all speed after the fugitives. In the hurry of
+pursuit I inadvertently passed them, and tried to turn
+back my steed; but his inclinations were decidedly against a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+retreat. While our opposing impulses kept us stationary
+for a moment, I descried my men approaching on horseback,
+behind the Indians. When they came up I urged them
+to return to the boat. They persisted in going with the
+savages. I remonstrated with them on the impropriety
+and danger of their course, but in vain. Their mouths
+watered for the meat and eggs they were told of. Their
+cunning guides had completely allayed suspicion, and even
+laid to sleep their common prudence. The Indians kept
+on their course,&mdash;the men followed, and I felt at my
+wits&rsquo; end. I rode from one to another, talking as industriously
+and as urgently as I could. At last I gave them
+peremptory orders to return. The Indians had plainly lied
+to us. Their village, they said, was only a little way off;
+and yet we were three-fourths of a mile from the boat, and
+not a house was yet in sight. Determined to go back, if I
+had to go alone, I turned my horse&rsquo;s head.</p>
+
+<p>At this point the mask was thrown off. The Indians
+seized my bridle, and arrested my progress. We all dismounted,
+with a view to retreat on foot, but before I could
+reach the man nearest to me the Indians had robbed him
+of his gun. With a mutual agreement to stand by each
+other in case of pursuit, we hastened our retrograde march,
+but had made no great distance when we saw the Indians
+coming after us. They rode in advance of us, halted in
+our front, and man&oelig;uvred to cut off our retreat; but by
+various zigzag movements, or boldly turning their horses&rsquo;
+heads, we made considerable progress. Our foes, however,
+knew what they were at; it was only a question of time
+with them. A sudden and decided movement indicated a
+crisis. I drew my pistols (a pair of single-barrelled ones),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+but before I had time to cock one I was jumped upon
+from behind by some half-dozen of these monsters. One
+of them grasping a pistol by the barrel, I pointed it to his
+head and pulled the trigger. It missed fire, and I thank
+God that it did! Its discharge would have certainly killed
+him, and would as certainly have been revenged upon my
+life, probably upon the lives of my comrades. This is easily
+felt and said now; but at the moment, when excited by the
+struggle for liberty, and, as I feared, for life, with such
+dreaded enemies and at such formidable odds, it was quite
+another matter.</p>
+
+<p>The old chief now came up, took me firmly by the wrist,
+and said, &ldquo;Usted no bono! usted habla varmano por me
+casa, mucho, mala hombre currarhae! mucho montaro hombre!&rdquo;&mdash;by
+which specimen of choice Spanish he desired to
+inform me that we promised to go to their houses, and now
+would not go; that we were bad men and liars. His peculiarly
+thick and guttural pronunciation did not make the
+dialect more intelligible; but I was in a situation where
+criticism would have been rather out of place, and my ears
+were quickened by the revelations made to sight. I therefore
+promptly replied, that if he would restrain his men
+from violence, we would go where he pleased. They, meanwhile,
+grasped their knives, and looked as if they wanted to
+use them on our persons; but the chief told them, No, <i>not
+then</i>; he would get rum and tobacco for us first, and kill
+us afterwards. Whilst I was thus engaged, my nearest
+companion discovered his gun in the hands of an Indian
+who stood not far from where I was struggling. Rushing
+suddenly upon him, he succeeded in recovering his piece,&mdash;more
+by tact than force, for his antagonist, like all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+Patagonians, was very large and muscular. Then nimbly
+jumping aside, he told me to look out for myself. That
+was rather more than I felt able to do just at the moment.
+One Indian seized me by my arms and legs, some of them
+grasped my body, and others were busy investigating the
+contents of my pockets, and appropriating the same to
+their own use. And if he supposed himself able to show
+as much independence as he recommended me to, he was
+evidently mistaken. He had not elevated his gun to his
+face when the Indians were upon him, and wrenched it
+from his grasp. The old chief, all this time, held me
+tightly by the wrist, menacing his followers with his half-drawn
+cutlass, while I endeavored to bid for life and liberty.
+I told him he should have plenty of rum, tobacco, bread,
+flour, brass and beads, if he would carry us to the boat. At
+length he beat off my plunderers, and seemed on the point
+of yielding to my terms. He mounted his horse, and
+ordered me to get up behind him. I obeyed with alacrity,
+and fancied myself in a fair way to get out of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>But, whatever may have been the chief&rsquo;s original intention,
+I had not gone far before his policy was diverted. One
+of the most audacious of the troop rode up, and insisted that
+I should not be allowed to return. I was the captain of
+the ship, he affirmed, and if I were restored they would
+get none of the promised rum and tobacco. The old savage
+seemed struck by this new suggestion, and halted. We
+then dismounted, and he led the horse up the hill, ordering
+me to follow. I was next directed to sit on the ground
+and wait further action. There I sat, looking alternately,
+with longing eyes, at the boat, and at our vessel riding at
+anchor in plain view. My three companions were soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+brought to the spot, and dismounted. And now began a
+more earnest negotiation. We offered large ransom, and
+after some higgling they agreed that three of our number
+might be released, but one must remain as a hostage; and
+I was pointed out as the one. I endeavored to have one of
+the others stay, and one actually agreed to; but his heart
+soon failed him, and I could see that he was using all
+his powers of persuasion to provide for himself. I assured
+him that I would use every effort in his behalf, if he would
+consent to remain for the present; but he evidently thought
+of the maxim, &ldquo;A bird in the hand,&rdquo; &amp;c., and was bent on
+making sure of his own safety first of all. Poor fellow!
+I cannot blame him for loving his own life, though, at the
+moment, it did seem rather hard that, after getting into
+the scrape by their own headstrong folly, against my entreaties
+and peremptory commands, they should extricate
+themselves from it at my expense, and leave me to bear
+the hardest of it! Very likely I might have done the
+same, if our cases had been reversed. And, even if one
+of them had offered to remain, it is very doubtful whether
+the substitution would have been permitted. The Indians
+too evidently regarded me as the chief prize, and were
+bent on retaining me as such. They insisted that I must
+stay while the other three should go for ransom, and I had
+nothing to do but to submit.</p>
+
+<p>Three Indians each took a man with him on a horse, and
+started for the boat. I watched them as they went, with
+feelings that I will not attempt to describe. It seemed but
+too probable we should never meet again. A sense of desolation
+came over me, at the thought of being left alone in
+the power of these savages, of whose treachery and cunning<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+I had already had such ample experience, and of whose
+cruelty I had heard so much. I felt that I was beyond the
+aid, if not cut off from the sympathy, of my associates.
+The falseness of the Indians to all their engagements, as I
+afterwards learned, was signally displayed towards my more
+fortunate comrades. They evidently had no intention of
+releasing any of us. Before reaching the boat, they halted,
+and refused to go any further, or allow our men to leave
+them. The prisoners, however, struggled desperately, and
+at length got clear of their captors. One rushed up to his
+neck in water, the others sprang into the boat, pushed off,
+and rescued him as he was struggling with the waves.
+They reached the schooner, told their tale, and represented
+my desperate situation. All hands commenced breaking
+up cargo, to get at the rum and tobacco for my ransom.
+Two boats were forthwith manned, provided with the required
+articles, and with plenty of arms and ammunition,
+and started for the shore. They got to the land a little
+before dark, and pulled into a cove, or slight indentation
+of the beach.</p>
+
+<p>On catching sight of them, I desired the Indians to conduct
+me to the shore, and receive the ransom. But this
+they declined. They ordered me to the summit of an
+eminence near by, there to beckon the men to come ashore.
+An old skin was given me to wave as a signal. Perceiving
+that I was to be used as a decoy to lure the others into
+their treacherous snare, and secure them all as prisoners,
+I protested against this new breach of faith, and assured
+them that our men would not leave their boat, but that, if
+they wanted any rum and tobacco, they must take me to
+the shore. To this, after a long palaver, and with visible<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+reluctance, they assented. The old chief ordered me to
+mount his horse,&mdash;this time reversing our relative positions;
+he made me sit on the rude apology for a saddle and
+guide the horse, while he took his seat behind, clasping
+both arms tightly around my body, and spurring his old
+nag forward. Thus mounted, and wondering what would
+be the next trick of the savages, I was conveyed to the
+shore, near the spot where the boats lay off on their oars.
+Driving as near them as possible, I hailed the men,&mdash;told
+them by no means to fire on the Indians, but to give them
+all they had promised. They asked what they should do
+with the articles. I turned to the chief, told him what the
+boats had brought, and once more asked if it was a satisfactory
+ransom. He said, Yes; if those articles were laid
+down, I should be released. But he was plainly resolved to
+have his pay in advance; he distrusted us too much to let
+me go first; and I need not say that my confidence in him
+was far from implicit. But, &ldquo;Nothing venture, nothing
+have,&rdquo;&mdash;I directed the men to put the things ashore, which
+they did. The Indians greedily picked them up, and I
+claimed my release. The old rascal said, &ldquo;he had not got
+<i>plenty</i> of rum yet, he must have a barrel.&rdquo; I insisted and
+struggled, but to no purpose. He kept a tight hold of my
+body, and when I begged that at least he would not squeeze
+me quite so painfully, he only redoubled his clasp. He
+obviously suspected, and I more than suspected, that it
+would not require a very great relaxation of his embrace
+to prompt a pretty decided movement on my part, for the
+effectual resisting of which the vicinity of the water was
+not altogether favorable. He now began spurring his old
+horse from the scene of action; I drew upon the bridle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+with my whole available force and weight; but the disparity
+between human strength and horse power, stimulated
+to its utmost by the spur, was too great. I begged
+the men in the boats to come again the next morning, and
+on no account to leave me, which they solemnly promised.</p>
+
+<p>I was now hurried back into the country five or six
+miles, and at last reached an Indian village, and was set
+down by the old chief at his wigwam. He gave me in
+charge to one of his squaws, who ordered me into the hut
+and bade me sit down on the ground. While sitting there,
+and casting an inquisitive glance around the rude habitation,
+my attention was suddenly attracted to what appeared
+to be several pairs of eyes in a dark corner, shining
+with a strange brilliancy. I speculated silently on the
+sight, much doubting whether they belonged to human
+beings or to wild beasts; but, on carefully reconnoitring,
+I discovered that they belonged to three huge women.
+Further investigations disclosed a number of dark-skinned
+boys and girls, of divers ages and sizes, playing and
+capering about the premises, in a state of perfect nudity.
+It took a considerable time to make out these, or any
+other objects, distinctly, owing to the darkness of the hut.
+Presently the chief, the patriarch of the tribe, entered
+his habitation, and began a conversation, in his peculiar
+dialect, with his wives. He spoke in a low, guttural tone,
+in words the purport of which I could not gather. I
+was in no mood for conversation, but would have been
+much gratified by learning his version of the day&rsquo;s &ldquo;stroke
+of business.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>And now a few dry sticks and a bunch of dry grass
+were brought, mine host drew from a convenient repository<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+a brass tinder-box, with a stone and a piece of steel,
+and soon produced a blaze that brilliantly illuminated the
+scene. By its light I was enabled to survey the first
+specimen of Patagonian architecture that had blessed my
+vision. It was constructed in a <i>pointed</i> style, though not
+very aspiring, consisting of a row of stakes about eight
+feet high, each terminating at top in a crotch, or fork,
+with a pole laid across them; two parallel rows of stakes
+on either side, about two feet high, with similar terminations,
+and a similar horizontal fixture; and a covering
+composed of skins of the guanaco, sewed together with
+the sinews of the ostrich, the only thread used by the
+people. This covering is drawn over the frame-work, and
+fastened by stakes driven through it into the ground.
+For purposes of ventilation some interstices are left, but
+these again are half closed by skins attached to the outside;
+so that the air from without, and the smoke from
+within (in default of a chimney), must insinuate themselves
+through these apertures in great moderation. In
+truth, my first survey was rather hurried; the first cheerful
+gleam had scarcely set my eyes on the look-out when
+I was fain to shut them against an intolerable smoke. In
+no long time I felt as bacon, if conscious, might be supposed
+to feel in the process of curing. No lapse of time
+was sufficient to reconcile my eyes, nostrils and lungs,
+to the nuisance; often have I been more than half strangled
+by it, and compelled to lie with my face to the ground, as
+the only endurable position. Talk that is &ldquo;worse than a
+smoky house&rdquo; must be something out of date, or Shakspeare&rsquo;s
+imagination never comprehended anything so
+detestable as a Patagonian hut. The chief and his numerous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+household, however, seemed to enjoy immense satisfaction;
+and jabbered and grunted, and played their antics,
+and exchanged grimaces, as complacently as if they
+breathed a highly exhilarating atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>My meditations and observations were shortly interrupted
+by preparations for a meal. The chief&rsquo;s better
+half&mdash;or rather fifth part, for he had four wives&mdash;superintended
+the culinary operations, which were as rude and
+simple as the hut where they were carried on. And now
+my fancy began to conjure up visions of the beef, fowls
+and eggs, the promise of which had lured my men from
+the boat,&mdash;had proved stronger than the suggestions of
+prudence, and had made me a prisoner. But these dainties,
+if they existed anywhere within the chief&rsquo;s jurisdiction,
+were just at present reserved. The old hag threw down
+from the top of one of the stakes that supported the tent
+the quarter of some animal; whether dog, guanaco, or
+whatever, was past imagining. She slashed right and
+left, with might and main, an old copper knife, till it was
+divided into several pieces. Then taking a number of
+crotched sticks, about two feet long, and sharpened at all
+their points, she inserted the forked ends into pieces of
+the meat, and drove the opposite points into the ground
+near the fire; which, though sufficient to smoke and comfortably
+<i>warm</i> the mess, was too feeble to roast it. At
+all events, time was too precious, or their unsophisticated
+appetites were too craving, to wait for such an operation;
+and the raw morsels were quickly snatched from the
+smoke, torn into bits by her dirty hands, and thrown upon
+the ground before us. The Indians seized them with
+avidity, and tossed a bit to me; but what could I do with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+it? I should have had no appetite for the dinner of an
+alderman at such a time and place; but as for tasting
+meat that came in such a questionable shape, there was no
+bringing my teeth or resolution to it. While eying it
+with ill-suppressed disgust, I observed the savages, like a
+horde of half-starved dogs, devouring their portions with
+the greatest relish; seizing the fragments with their fine
+white teeth, at the same time clenching them with their
+hands, and giving every sign of enjoyment <i>except</i> what one
+is accustomed to see in human beings. The old chief remarked
+the slight I was putting upon his hospitality, and
+broke in upon me with a fierce <i>Por que usted, no munge
+usted, usted carna? Esta carna mucho bueno hombre por
+munge, se hombre, munge!</i> &ldquo;Why don&rsquo;t you eat your
+meat? This meat very good to eat,&mdash;very good to eat.
+Eat, man! eat!&rdquo; I may here observe that my knowledge
+of Spanish, like the chief&rsquo;s, was colloquial; picked up
+here and there in voyages to South American ports, which
+may account for my orthography being so plainly determined
+by the ear rather than by any rules of Castilian
+grammar. Seeing him so much excited, and not knowing
+what deeds might follow his words if I refused, I thought
+it expedient to <i>try</i> to &ldquo;eat what was set before me, asking
+no questions;&rdquo; thinking, moreover, that if there were
+any evil spirit in it that the fire had failed to expel, it
+could not possibly have resisted the smoke. So, being
+sorely divided between aversion to the &ldquo;strange flesh&rdquo; and
+fear of showing it, I forced a morsel into my mouth. Its
+taste was by no means as offensive as its appearance had
+been unpromising, and I managed to save appearances
+with less disgust than I had feared. This was my first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+meal with the savages, and a sample of many others;
+though better viands afterwards varied their monotony,
+now and then.</p>
+
+<p>The eating being over, a large horn, that had once
+adorned the head of a Spanish bullock, was dipped into
+a leathern bucket and passed from one to another. Between
+the bucket and the horn, the fluid had gained a
+flavor not found by Adam in his first brewing, and, indeed,
+not far from nauseating. However, it seemed expedient
+to &ldquo;conquer my prejudices&rdquo; so far as to drink with the
+other guests, and the ceremonies of dinner were over; for
+which, &ldquo;with all other mercies,&rdquo; I felt thankful, and
+turned to my corner near the expiring fire, to chew the
+cud of sweet and bitter fancies, in which the latter ingredient
+decidedly predominated. The strange and sudden
+desolateness of my condition, the doubtful chances of
+escape, the possible sufferings before me, the uncertainty
+that rested on the designs of my savage captors, all
+rushed upon my mind, and suggested to my heated imagination
+a host of terrors.</p>
+
+<p>These painful thoughts were interrupted by an order
+to prepare for the night&rsquo;s repose. An old skin, about two
+and a half feet square, was thrown upon the cold ground
+in the back part of our rookery, and assigned for my
+couch; I took possession accordingly, and the whole family
+bestowed themselves in a row near me. The stifling atmosphere
+was soon vocal with their snoring. My brain
+was too busy for sleep. Feverish fancies kept me wakeful.
+I revolved a variety of plans for escape. Could I steal
+out of the hut unperceived? Could I find my way to the
+shore? I doubted the first, and more than doubted the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+second; and even if so far successful, there was no boat
+to take me from the accursed land. And how could I
+conceal myself from the Indians till a boat should arrive?
+They would miss me; and, long before any possible communication
+with my vessel, would be hunting me down
+with horses and dogs. Not a wood or thicket had met
+my eye on the dreary waste I traversed the day before.
+I tried to devise some other plan, but none offered itself.
+It was this or nothing,&mdash;and this was next to nothing.
+Grown desperate, at last, I determined to make an effort.</p>
+
+<p>After lying some time, listening to the heavy breathing
+of the sleepers, and satisfying myself that none of the
+company were awake, I raised myself as noiselessly as
+possible, and stole towards the front of the wigwam.
+Casting a furtive glance backward, I could see that the
+old chief was restless; either he had feigned sleep, or some
+evil spirit had waked him just at the wrong time. To go
+immediately back would too plainly betray my purpose;
+so I walked very calmly and deliberately into the open air,
+and stood as if star-gazing; the old fellow, as I plainly
+perceived, all the time watching me from the lodge. In
+a short time I walked quietly back to my dark retreat,
+and found him where I had left him, lying very coseyly,
+as if nothing had happened to disturb his slumbers.
+Once more stretching myself on my uneasy couch, I lay
+two hours or more, still revolving the same unsolved
+problem in my mind. At length, all appearing to be sound
+asleep, I decided to venture a second attempt; and, in
+the event of failure, to make the best of it for the present.
+Stealthily as possible I crawled from among them, slid
+out of doors, and crouched upon the grass. Could I be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+mistaken? No&mdash;those infernal eyes were fastened on me
+as before! There was no eluding their vigilance. At
+this moment a howling as of a hundred wolves was heard
+approaching, and about that number of dogs came rushing,
+pell-mell, towards me. I scampered for the wigwam
+as fast as my feet could carry me, and in my flight
+stumbled over a stick nearly eight feet long. I seized
+the weapon thus kindly lent me, and, swinging it furiously
+about me, gave all intruders that came within my reach
+a sufficient touch of its quality. Thus defending myself
+from the brutes, I backed towards the lodge, glad to shelter
+myself among its detested inmates. The cunning old Parosilver,
+as before, had bestowed himself on the ground
+among his squaws and dirty children, and was, apparently,
+fast asleep.</p>
+
+<p>This was more than I could compass. Vexation at
+my fruitless attempts to escape,&mdash;dread, inspired by the
+relentless vigilance and quiet assurance of the chief,&mdash;tormenting
+apprehensions as to the issue of any effort on
+the morrow to effect my ransom,&mdash;all kept my brain
+upon the rack, and effectually drove sleep from my eyes,
+till near daylight, when I fell into a disturbed slumber.
+In my dreams I was at once transported from the savage
+hut, on board my vessel. Methought she was driving before
+the wind, all sails set, at full speed, upon a dangerous reef.
+All on board seemed insensible of the danger; I alone
+perceived it, but a nightmare spell was on me, and my
+lips refused to speak, my limbs to move. Rooted to my
+place on the deck, I stood in dumb agony, while our
+vessel rushed upon her fate. There came a sudden
+shock,&mdash;our bark had struck, and her total destruction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+was inevitable. Some of the men were dashed violently
+upon the deck, others precipitated into the boiling surf,
+where they clung desperately to spars, and fragments of
+the wreck. While the confusion was wildest, and the
+dream of effort for escape was subsiding into the calmness
+of despair, I suddenly awoke, and for some time was unable
+to comprehend where I was, or how I came there. If
+I were indeed shipwrecked, I was also, like Jonah, vomited
+upon dry land. I drew my hand across my eyes to assure
+myself that vision was unobstructed, cast my eyes right
+and left;&mdash;the lodge, the ashes of the last night&rsquo;s fire,
+the chief and his motley family, the door through which
+the &ldquo;lubber fiend&rdquo; had followed me with his restless eyes,
+and into which the fierce dogs had driven me, recalled my
+distracted senses, and restored consciousness of a reality
+which, at the moment, I would almost have exchanged for
+the wildest terrors of my dream.</p>
+
+<p>With the light calmer thoughts succeeded, and I once
+more addressed myself to the task of effecting my escape.
+The first thing was to get the chief with me to the shore,
+in readiness to meet a boat, and to renew negotiations
+for my liberty. Observing that he was awake, I began
+to promise him an abundant supply of the articles most
+tempting to his fancy, on condition of my release. He
+carelessly replied that he would go with me to the beach
+by and by. I tried to urge his departure, being anxious
+to go without the rabble at his heels the day before, but
+for whose violence he would now hardly be master
+of me;
+but there was no hurrying his movements. He took down
+his little cutlass, drew it from its brazen scabbard, and
+commenced sharpening it with a rusty file, trying its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>
+edge with his fingers as the work went on, and casting side
+glances at me the while. Whether this ceremony was
+the preface to some act of violence he meditated, or a
+scene for effect, to fill me with a wholesome dread of his
+power, I could not guess; but, determined to show no
+foolish fears, I thought it best to put a bold face upon
+the matter, and make an equally striking demonstration
+of courage and presence of mind, qualities which savages
+generally appreciate. I therefore approached him, tried
+the edge with my own fingers, praised the beauty of the
+instrument, and interested myself in the process of sharpening
+it. Following up my assault on his vanity, I extolled
+him as one of the best of men, and assured him
+that when we got to the shore I would amply reward him
+for his kindness to me; taking occasion, however, to throw
+in a hint on the vast importance of starting early. This
+I enforced by the suggestion that, when he got his good
+things, the fewer there were present, the fewer claimants
+there would be to divide the spoils.</p>
+
+<p>After much coaxing, he started after his old horse;
+I mounted behind him, and we moved slowly off. When
+we arrived at the shore it was blowing a perfect gale. A
+boat could not live in the billows. All three vessels had
+dragged their anchors, and lay at some distance from their
+anchorage of yesterday. Bark Hebe appeared to be dragging
+towards the Orange Bank, a dangerous shoal. I
+afterwards learned that the Hebe, after getting into water
+as shoal as would barely float her, slipped her cables,
+put up a little sail, and finally succeeded in weathering
+the shoal and getting safely out to sea. The J. B. Gager
+was dragging in the same direction. My own vessel was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+holding on better than the others, and I hoped she would
+ride out the gale in safety.</p>
+
+<p>I made my captors understand the reason why no boat
+had come, as promised; with which they appeared to be
+satisfied, and we returned as we came. By means of
+their broken Spanish, which they had picked up from
+sailors, and in visits to the Chilian or other Spanish
+American settlements, and by signs, amounting at times
+pretty nearly to a pantomime, I found myself able to
+understand inquiries or commands, and to make known my
+wishes.</p>
+
+<p>Early on the following morning we again visited the
+shore, and I looked eagerly toward the anchorage, where
+all my hopes of deliverance centred. Not a vessel was
+in sight! Whether they had foundered, or were driven
+upon the shoal and wrecked, or had dragged out to sea
+in a disabled condition,&mdash;or whether my shipmates, the
+gale having subsided, had deliberately proceeded on their
+voyage, and left me a prey to cruel savages and all the
+ills of this inhospitable shore,&mdash;I was unable to conjecture.
+I only knew that they were gone, and that I
+was left alone to the tender mercies of the Patagonians.
+No present means of escape appeared. The future, wisely
+hidden from my view, suggested none to my imagination.
+I told my captors the worst; that the high winds had
+probably sunk the ships, and all that were in them. At
+this intelligence they seemed delighted, and laughed immoderately,
+as if such a calamity were a consolation for
+the loss of their expected ransom. Their cruel glee could
+add nothing to the weight of my desolation. My past
+life was sealed up as if by an entrance on a new state<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+of being. I looked round on a bleak and cheerless region,
+and forward on a life as barren of human joy, made up
+of every species of suffering,&mdash;hunger, cold, fatigue, insult,
+torture,&mdash;liable to be cut short at any moment by the
+caprice of my tormentors, and so wretched that death
+itself, with all the enormities of cannibalism, lost its terrors
+by comparison. Life, for any good or great purposes
+to be achieved, was over. And then my thoughts turned
+to far different scenes,&mdash;to happy faces, and pleasant
+voices, and familiar sights;&mdash;to hearts that beat with no
+dread of this day&rsquo;s calamities, felt no consciousness kindred
+to my despair, but would, in due time, be rudely
+awakened from their security. <span class="smcap">God</span> help me, for I am
+helpless now!</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER II.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived&mdash;&ldquo;Holland&rdquo;&mdash;Discovery of
+vessels in the straits&mdash;Double disappointment&mdash;A crisis&mdash;Survey of
+Patagonia&mdash;Scanty vegetation&mdash;Animals and birds&mdash;Climate&mdash;The
+people&mdash;Their habits and character&mdash;Domestic relations&mdash;Weapons&mdash;Government&mdash;Superstition&mdash;Cannibalism&mdash;Their
+reputation abroad.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the encampment, it remained to devise
+some new way of escape. Some four or five days&rsquo; ride to
+the westward would bring us to Port Famine, on the
+straits, a penal settlement of Chili, and the only settlement
+in the vicinity by which I could hope to re&euml;nter the civilized
+world. A journey thither was suggested to the Indians,
+as the most likely way of turning my captivity to
+profitable account; but they refused with a promptness and
+decisiveness which was rather unaccountable, till I afterwards
+learned that they had lately visited that part of the
+country on a horse-stealing expedition, in which their success
+had been too good to make them desirous of showing
+their faces there at present. Money, guns, pistols, cutlasses,
+brass, beads, and everything else that could be
+thought of to tempt their cupidity, were offered. I was
+not disposed to be niggard of promises; but in vain. To
+Port Famine they were determined <i>not</i> to go; but old
+Parosilver assured me, by way of compensation, that he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+would take me to &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; which was a &ldquo;much better
+place.&rdquo; Whereabout on terra firma this South American
+Holland was situated,&mdash;if, indeed, there was any such
+place, and the chief was not indulging in a little extra
+lying,&mdash;was past all conjecture. I inquired the distance.
+He could not tell exactly. Was it inhabited by Americans
+or English? There were &ldquo;twenty or thirty white men
+there, and plenty of rum and tobacco.&rdquo; They promised to
+start with me towards Holland the next day. In what
+direction? They pointed towards the Atlantic. Well, I
+cared little where it was, or who lived there, provided only
+they were not Patagonians, and I could once get free of
+these rascals. But on the following morning the migration
+was postponed, in consequence of unexpected tidings.</p>
+
+<p>One of the tribe, who had been down to the shore, reported
+that my vessel had come back. This welcome,
+though rather improbable information, started me, with
+about a dozen of them, on the track of his story. On
+gaining a view of the straits, a vessel was plainly in sight,
+but it was a strange sail. Yet, if I could succeed in
+boarding her, my purposes would be answered. She came
+into the bight of the bay, and anchored about fifteen miles
+below us. I endeavored to make my smutty companions
+comprehend that as the tide was then running out they
+would not make the shore till it turned, which would not
+be till night. They waited till near night, when hunger
+and thirst wore out their patience, and they ordered me off
+with them. Against this untimely mandate I warmly remonstrated,
+and after some dispute it was arranged that
+the chief should stay with me for the night. The rest
+returned to their encampment, and we made a good fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+which was kept up till nearly morning. Old Parosilver
+lay down under the lee of a clump of bushes, while I was
+busy in active exercise to keep warm, and replenishing the
+fire with dry bushes. At dusk I had observed the vessel
+hoisting sail, and beating up the bay. On this I began
+brandishing firebrands to attract notice, and walked to and
+fro on the beach for hours. The craft gradually approached,
+till her white canvas became distinguishable
+through the surrounding gloom. Fresh fuel was heaped on
+the fire, a bright blaze ascended; I took my station directly
+in front of it, holding out my coat, and frequently turning
+round, that my form and features might be more distinctly
+revealed. And now a thrill of joy electrified me, as I saw
+a light set on deck, which appeared to be stationary.
+There could be no doubt that the vessel had come to
+anchor directly opposite to us. Though hungry and weary
+with long watching, I hurried about, and gathered sticks
+and leaves in abundance to kindle a still brighter beacon-fire,
+in whose light and warmth anxiety began to expand
+into hope. At dawn of day, as the horizon lighted up, I
+could distinguish the vessel lying about a mile off, quiet as
+a sea-fowl on the calm surface. Presently there was a
+movement on deck, the anchor was hove up, the fore and
+main sails were hoisted, and the object on which my hopes
+and ardent prayers had centred through the cold night
+receded from view through the straits, bound, doubtless, for
+California. I watched the fast-vanishing sail with tearful
+eyes; and the old chief, who had been on the look-out,
+started for his horse, that had been hampered and turned
+out to crop among the scanty vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>Before I had time to recover from the first revulsion of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+disappointment and grief, <i>another</i> vessel, a topsail schooner,
+came in by Point Dungeness. &ldquo;Cheer up,&rdquo; I said to myself;
+&ldquo;the sun will be shining, the darkness have given
+place to the clear day, before this vessel can be up and
+opposite to us.&rdquo; Confident of being noticed, I began
+active preparations for the approaching visitor. No rod
+of sufficient length was to be found; but, after some search,
+a number of short crooked sticks were collected. To lash
+them together, I tore up my drawers, which I could ill
+afford, and appropriated my shoe-strings. My flannel shirt
+was hoisted as a flag; and having replenished the fire, I
+paced the beach with colors flying, but, as the vessel approached,
+with increasing faintness of heart; for the wind
+gradually shifted, so that she could only take advantage of
+it by heading towards Terra del Fuego. At last she came
+opposite, but so near the further shore that the chances of
+success diminished every moment. Dark objects moved on
+the deck,&mdash;fancy painted them as men;&mdash;would they not
+discover me through their glasses, and be drawn by my
+signal of distress? No; onward she floated away,&mdash;the
+narrows were soon passed, and my vision of deliverance was
+dissipated.</p>
+
+<p>With this final death-blow to all present hopes of relief,
+I turned away in despair. Exhausted by hunger, cold and
+fatigue, and worn out by hours of anxiety, I fell helpless
+upon the ground, and wept like a child. For the first time
+I felt <i>utterly</i> forsaken, and repined at my lot as one of
+unmitigated evil. Effort seemed useless; I had neither
+resolution nor strength to make further exertion. There
+was nothing for me but listless endurance. I even reproached
+myself that I had not cast myself into the sea,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+and staked my life on the chance of swimming to the
+schooner. There was no possibility of doing this; but
+failure would have been <i>only</i> death, and what was life
+worth to me here? This tempest of self-reproach soon
+spent itself. My temperament is too buoyant to be long
+depressed, and calm and stout thoughts took the place of
+despairing weakness. It was unmanly, something whispered
+within me, thus to give way before difficulties. It
+would be time enough to do this when all possible effort
+had failed. The weak and imbecile might take refuge in
+despair, but the strength of youth should serve me better.
+I called to mind examples of courage in greater emergencies,
+when obstacles that seemed insurmountable had
+been conquered by fortitude and perseverance. &ldquo;Heaven
+helps those who help themselves.&rdquo; The more I reflected
+on the matter, the stronger grew the impulses of faith and
+courage, by whose force it seemed possible to win a triumph
+against the greatest odds. Before rising from the earth,
+my resolution was fully taken to throw discouragement to
+the winds; by the help of God to meet whatever impended
+with the courage of a man; to bear my calamities with
+patient endurance; and to give up hope and energy only
+when nothing was left to be attempted, or the power to do
+and suffer was exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>I rose a new man,&mdash;my strength invigorated, my soul
+fortified by a strong purpose. Though the cold night air
+had thoroughly chilled my frame, it now felt a warmth
+kindled by the fires within, and an unaccustomed flush suffused
+my countenance. The resolve fixed in this memorable
+crisis of my captivity, though severely tested, was
+never wholly overborne. Henceforth, the events and scenes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+through which I passed were viewed with a calmness that
+had been before unattainable, and which is now scarcely
+credible, on recollection. So true is it that our strength is
+unknown to ourselves till it is thoroughly tested.</p>
+
+<p>The hope of immediate release, however, was at an end;
+my savage captors, it seemed, must be looked upon as for
+an indefinite period my masters and companions; and I had
+nothing at present to do but to divert myself by a study
+of their manners and habits; to consult my safety by a
+close study of their character, and of the ways and means
+by which so to adapt my deportment to it as to win their
+confidence, to disarm hostility, and to seize opportunities.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Patagonia</span>, as it offered itself to my observation, more
+than answered the descriptions of geographers,&mdash;bleak,
+barren, desolate, beyond description or conception,&mdash;only
+to be appreciated by being seen. Viewed from the Straits
+of Magellan, it rises in gentle undulations or terraces.
+Far as the eye can reach, in a westerly direction, it assumes
+a more broken and hilly appearance, and long ranges of
+mountains, extending from north to south, divide the eastern
+from the western shore. The soil is of a light, sandy character,
+and bears nothing worthy the name of a tree. Low
+bushes, or underwood, are tolerably abundant, and in the
+valleys a coarse, wiry grass grows luxuriantly. Streams
+of water are rare. The natives draw their supplies principally
+from springs or pools in the valleys, the water of
+which is generally brackish and disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>The variety of animal is nearly as limited as that of vegetable
+productions. The guanaco, a quadruped allied to
+the lama, and with some resemblance to the camelopard,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+is found in considerable numbers. It is larger than the
+red deer, fleet on the foot, usually found in large herds,
+frequenting not only the plains, but found along the course
+of the Andes. Its flesh is a principal article of food; its
+skin is dried with the hair on, in such a manner that, when
+wet, it retains its pliability and softness. This process of
+preserving skins seems to be peculiar to the Indian tribes,
+and is not unlike that by which buffalo-robes, bear-skins,
+buckskins, and other articles of luxury, and even necessity,
+among us, are prepared by the North American Indians.
+Guanaco-skins are cut into pieces of all sizes, and sewed
+into a thousand fanciful patterns, every workman originating
+a style to suit himself. The hoofs are sometimes
+turned to account by the natives as soles for shoes, when
+they indulge in such a luxury, which is not often.</p>
+
+<p>The enemy of the guanaco is the cougar, or &ldquo;American
+lion,&rdquo; smaller than its African namesake, and more resembling
+the tiger in his character and habits, having a
+smooth, sleek coat, of a brownish yellow color,&mdash;altogether
+a very beautiful but ferocious creature. His chase is a
+favorite, though rare and dangerous, sport of the natives.
+Patagonia likewise boasts of the skunk, whose flesh is used
+for food. There are also foxes, and innumerable mice. Of
+birds, the only noticeable varieties are the condor, in the
+Andes, and the cassowary, a species of ostrich, smaller
+than that of Africa, on the plains; its plumage is not
+abundant, generally of a gray or dun color. Its flesh is
+tender and sweet, and with the fat much prized by the
+Indians. Like the African ostrich, it is exceedingly swift,
+only to be captured on horseback, and often fleet enough to
+outrun the fastest racer.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The climate is severe. The Rio Negro forms the northern
+boundary, and nearly the whole country is south of the
+parallel of 40&deg; south latitude. At the time of my capture,
+which was in the month of May, the weather corresponded
+to that of November in the New England States. Its chilliness,
+however, was greatly increased by the bleak winds of
+that exposed locality. Along the Straits of Magellan the
+weather is also exceedingly changeable. Sudden and severe
+squalls, often amounting almost to a hurricane, vex the
+navigation of the straits, and sweep over the coast with
+fearful fury.</p>
+
+<p>The habits of the Patagonians, or at least of the tribe
+among whom I was cast, are migratory, wandering over the
+country in quest of game, or as their caprice may prompt
+them. They subsist altogether on the flesh of animals and
+birds. The guanaco furnishes most of their food, and all
+their clothing. A mantle of skins, sewed with the sinews
+of the ostrich, fitting closely about the neck and extending
+below the knee, is their only article of dress, except in the
+coldest weather, when a kind of shoe, made of the hind hoof
+and a portion of the skin above it, serves to protect their
+inferior extremities.</p>
+
+<p>In person they are large; on first sight, they appear
+absolutely gigantic. They are taller than any other race I
+have seen, though it is impossible to give any accurate
+description. The only standard of measurement I had was
+my own height, which is about five feet ten inches. I
+could stand very easily under the arms of many of them,
+and all the men were at least a head taller than myself.
+Their average height, I should think, is nearly six and a
+half feet, and there were specimens that could have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+little less than seven feet high. They have broad shoulders,
+full and well-developed chests, frames muscular and finely
+proportioned, the whole figure and air making an impression
+like that which the first view of the sons of Anak is
+recorded to have made on the children of Israel. They
+exhibit enormous strength, whenever they are sufficiently
+aroused to shake off their constitutional laziness and exert
+it. They have large heads, high cheek-bones, like the
+North American Indians, whom they also resemble in their
+complexion, though it is a shade or two darker. Their
+foreheads are broad, but low, the hair covering them nearly
+to the eyes; eyes full, generally black, or of a dark brown,
+and brilliant, though expressive of but little intelligence.
+Thick, coarse, and stiff hair protects the head, its abundance
+making any artificial covering superfluous. It is worn
+long, generally divided at the neck, so as to hang in two
+folds over the shoulders and back, but is sometimes bound
+above the temples, by a fillet, over which it flows in ample
+luxuriance. Like more civilized people, the Patagonians
+take great pride in the proper disposition and effective display
+of their hair. Their teeth are really beautiful, sound
+and white,&mdash;about the only attractive and enviable feature
+of their persons. Feet and hands are large, but not disproportionate
+to their total bulk. They have deep, heavy
+voices, and speak in guttural tones,&mdash;the worst guttural I
+ever heard,&mdash;with a muttering, indistinct articulation,
+much as if their mouths were filled with hot pudding.
+Their countenances are generally stupid, but, on closer inspection,
+there is a gleam of low cunning that flashes
+through this dull mask, and is increasingly discernible on
+acquaintance with them; when excited, or engaged in any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+earnest business that calls their faculties into full exercise,
+their features light up with unexpected intelligence and
+animation. In fact, as one becomes familiar with them, he
+will not fail to detect an habitual expression of &ldquo;secretiveness&rdquo;
+and duplicity, which he will wonder he did not
+observe sooner. They are almost as imitative as monkeys,
+and are all great liars; falsehood is universal and inveterate
+with men, women and children. The youngest
+seem to inherit the taint, and vie with the oldest in displaying
+it. The detection of a falsehood gives them no
+shame or uneasiness. To these traits should be added a
+thorough-paced treachery, and, what might seem rather inconsistent
+with their other qualities, a large share of vanity,
+and an immoderate love of praise. They are excessively
+filthy in their personal habits. Hydrophobia, so to speak,
+is a prevailing distemper; they never wash themselves.
+Hands and faces are covered with dirt, so thick, and of
+such ancient deposit, that their natural color only appears
+in spots, laid bare by the mechanical loosening and displacement
+of some of the strata, which curiously variegates
+the surface. It is hardly necessary to remark that such a
+condition of the skin is highly favorable to the increase and
+multiplication of &ldquo;the moving creature that hath life,&rdquo;
+wherewith their persons are abundantly peopled.</p>
+
+<p>The women are proportionally smaller than the men,
+and rather inclined to embonpoint. The old chief had four
+wives, though he had probably never heard of Mahomet or
+his domestic laws. The rest of the tribe had only one wife
+apiece. The women erect the wigwams, provide fuel and
+cook,&mdash;if the operation should be dignified with that name,&mdash;in
+short, all the drudgery falls to their lot. They are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+treated as slaves, but made, in most respects, as comfortable
+in their servitude as the condition of their rude masters
+will admit. When, however, their lords are excited by
+gambling, or enraged for any or no cause, the fury of
+passion is visited upon their defenceless heads, which they
+bear uncomplainingly, with a meek submissiveness worthy
+of better treatment. They are passionately fond of trinkets
+and clumsy ornaments, such as bits of brass and copper,
+beads, and the like, which they wear suspended from their
+necks. A few of them had their ears pierced, and wore
+brass or copper ear-rings; and many of them decked out
+their children with similar rude finery, which is valued
+more than anything else, except rum, tobacco and bread.
+The men paint or bedaub their faces and breasts with a
+kind of red earth. Charcoal is also used as a cosmetic. A
+broad line of red alternating with a stripe of black, in
+various fantastic figures, is a favorite style of decoration.
+The women make themselves, if possible, still more hideous,
+by the application of a pigment made of clay, blood and
+grease. Some of them would be very comely, if only
+cleanly, and content to leave nature less strenuously
+adorned.</p>
+
+<p>The people are as deficient in the morals as in the refinements
+and courtesies of domestic life; their licentiousness
+is equal to their cruelty,&mdash;the filth of their persons
+only too faithfully represents the degree in which &ldquo;their
+mind and conscience is defiled.&rdquo; I saw no person, of
+either sex, that appeared to have attained advanced age,
+though it was difficult to judge of this. The oldest Indian
+I remember to have seen did not seem to be above sixty.</p>
+
+<p>Their only wealth, aside from their huts, consists of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+horses, the stock of which is frequently replenished by
+stealing from the Spanish and Chilian settlements. These
+animals are, for the most part, of small size and inferior
+quality, half wild, coated with coarse, shaggy hair&mdash;lean
+and woe-begone enough, just &ldquo;fit for the crows.&rdquo; A few
+valuable specimens of a superior breed are found among
+them, doubtless &ldquo;conveyed&rdquo; there. The rude saddles in
+use among them are mostly of Spanish origin, obtained at
+the settlements. They consist each of two boards, an inch
+thick, six inches wide, and two feet long, rounded at the
+corners so as to fit the horse&rsquo;s back, and united by two
+strips of board passing across the back-bone, the several
+pieces lashed together with leather strings. A piece of
+guanaco-skin often serves in default of a saddle. The
+steed is guided by a single rein, tied round the lower jaw;
+some of them sport a bit of iron or wood, secured by a
+string round the jaw, attaching the rein to this. Spurs,
+like the rest of their riding apparatus, are more efficient
+than elegant. They are indeed rude and cruel things,&mdash;straight
+sticks, six inches long, with a long, sharp iron
+inserted into the end, secured by a string or strap around
+the hollow of the foot, and tied at the top, a second strap
+nearer the heel, and a third passing round the heel. They
+are all agile and excellent horsemen.</p>
+
+<p>For weapons, the chief, and a few of the principal men,
+had cutlasses or swords. They had no fire-arms, nor could
+I learn that they understood their use; bows and arrows,
+spears and war-clubs, appeared to be equally unknown.
+All the men carried knives; and the <i>bolas</i>, a missile
+weapon used in the capture of all kinds of game. This
+consists of two round stones, or lead balls, if they can be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+procured weighing each about a pound, connected by a
+strap or thong of leather, ten or twelve feet long. When
+engaged in the chase, his horse at his highest speed, the
+rider holds one ball in his hand, and whirls the other
+rapidly above his head; when it has acquired sufficient
+momentum it is hurled with unerring aim at the object of
+pursuit, and either strikes the victim dead, or coils inextricably
+about him and roots him to the spot, a helpless
+mark for the hunter&rsquo;s knife.</p>
+
+<p>This tribe numbered about one thousand; the chief is the
+acknowledged head of the people. Whether his power was
+hereditary or elective, I could not learn; but incline to the
+belief that it was hereditary, as it appeared to be, in his
+theory at least, absolute. In all questions of importance
+his decision is final; yet his subjects take considerable
+liberty with his opinions, sometimes oppose his counsels,
+and even question his authority. On the appearance of
+such democratic symptoms, he sometimes finds it necessary
+to assert his sovereignty with spirit, and brandishes his
+cutlass smartly before their eyes.</p>
+
+<p>The habits of the people are not only filthy, but indolent
+to the last degree; exertion of body or mind is their
+greatest dread. They never go on a hunting expedition
+till there is nothing more to eat, nor even then till they
+feel the spur of extreme hunger. It sometimes happens
+that at such a crisis a storm comes on, which shuts them
+in; and it is no unfrequent occurrence for them, under
+such circumstances, to pass two or three days without
+tasting food. They learn nothing by experience; the
+same childish indolence and recklessness, followed by the
+same painful consequences, are continually recurring.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Though their great size at first sight was fitted to inspire
+terror, it required no very long observation to discover
+that they were deficient in natural courage. This, in fact,
+might be inferred at once, from their habitual deceit,
+treachery and artifice, which are the defences of the weak
+and timorous, rather than the weapons of strong and daring
+natures. They always select the night to inflict injuries;
+never meet an enemy in open combat whom they can stab
+from behind, or despatch in the dark; and, when obliged to
+attack by day, always do so in large numbers. This defect
+of courage is increased by their superstition; they have
+great faith in charms, signs and omens, a weakness which I
+anticipated might exert great influence on my destiny in
+important conjunctures. Could I by any means so master
+their secret as to possess myself of its mystic power, it
+might prove an effective aid to my plans of self-defence, or
+of escape. Should it, on the other hand, be turned by any
+accidental causes against me, its impulse might prove irresistible
+by power or contrivance. There was no appearance
+of idolatrous worship among them, nor could I observe any
+allusion to a Supreme Being, or to any superior powers
+having personal attributes; and, except a single ceremony,
+of which more hereafter, the nature of which was and is
+still inexplicable, there was nothing that suggested to my
+mind the idea of religious worship. Whether they are
+cannibals or not, has been a matter of some dispute. So
+far as I know, they have been, heretofore, only casually
+observed on the beach by voyagers, or vaguely reported of
+by the people of adjoining countries and neighboring settlements;
+neither of which is a sufficiently reliable source of
+information. My own personal advantages on this head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+were greater; but I am obliged, after all, to leave the
+question about where I found it, so far as <i>certain</i> conclusions
+are concerned. Yet some circumstances occurred,
+or were related to me, that incline my mind strongly to
+the belief that such horrible practices are not unjustly
+ascribed to them. Of the soundness of my conclusions
+those who follow the course of the narrative will have the
+opportunity of judging for themselves; if such had been
+my persuasion at the beginning, it may be readily imagined
+what effect this last hazard would have had upon my
+feelings, in contemplating the possibilities of the future.
+Happily a convenient scepticism on this point preserved
+me from this dark apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>I came among these people not, certainly, with the best
+preparation in my previous habits and associations to endure
+either the climate of the country or the hardships of
+captivity. I went on shore in my usual ship&rsquo;s dress; thick
+frock coat, trousers, and shoes, and glazed cap. My under-garments
+were woollen; though an important item, as
+before related, was made way with in fruitlessly signalling
+vessels in the straits. But to live without any change of
+dress, to sleep without any additional covering, protected
+from the cold ground only by a fragment of guanaco-hide,
+and the other discomforts and exposures of life among
+savages, made, altogether, a harsh contrast to the comforts
+of our good schooner. To these, however, I gradually
+became inured, till I was able to meet cold and wet and
+storm with as stoical indifference as my dark companions,
+who had known no other lot from infancy.</p>
+
+<p>Of the character of the natives I had little previous
+knowledge; and that little was not adapted to stimulate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>
+curiosity, or prompt the least anxiety for more intimate
+acquaintance. It was derived mainly from whalers, in
+whom it seemed to have produced much the same degree of
+contentment,&mdash;a feeling that ignorance is bliss. Indeed,
+the greatest caution has always been employed by voyagers
+in regard to landing on these shores; many experienced
+seamen cannot be persuaded to land at all; trade with the
+natives is always carried on in boats off shore, frequently
+with loaded fire-arms constantly levelled, in readiness for
+action in case of emergency. But here I was, put forcibly
+to the study of their character in the school of dame Experience,
+and can testify to the truth of the saying that
+she charges roundly for tuition. Let the reader give me
+credit for the cheapness with which I put him in possession
+of what knowledge was purchased at so exorbitant a price.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER III.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Hard journey&mdash;Encampment&mdash;Division of the tribe&mdash;My new guardian&mdash;Story
+of the capture of a British vessel&mdash;Re&uuml;nion&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Culinary
+arts&mdash;Hunting&mdash;Symptoms of danger&mdash;Mutual deceptions&mdash;Tough
+yarns&mdash;The fatal ring&mdash;An effective oration&mdash;Indecision of
+the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>The reader left me just rising from a half-stupor into
+which a double disappointment had thrown me, feverish
+with the excitement of new purposes and resolutions. The
+first aim was for some fresh water, to allay a burning
+thirst. After a long and unsuccessful search, I went deliberately
+to the beach and took a deep draught of the
+briny waves. Expecting that the chief would shortly
+return for me with a train of his followers, it occurred to
+me that I might secrete myself, though there was nothing
+certain to be gained by it, if I were successful, of which the
+probability was not great. With this object in view, I
+walked along close on the water&rsquo;s edge, that my footprints
+might be obliterated by the waves. After proceeding in
+this way for some distance, I left the shore, and started
+towards the interior, in quest of a place where I might dig
+a hole in the earth and cover myself with grass and bushes.
+I had gone but a little way inland, when, on ascending a
+slight eminence, whom should I meet, face to face, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+old chief and another of my tormentors! So the scheme
+came to nothing; but after others more feasible had so
+dolefully miscarried, it was not in human nature to lay
+this disappointment very deeply to heart. I made as
+though I was glad to see the old fellow, though, could I
+then have had my will of the savages, they would have
+been safely anchored in the middle of the straits. I told
+him (Heaven forgive me!) I was looking for them. The
+chief responded to my greeting only by ordering me to
+mount his horse. I requested leave to stay a little longer,
+and was refused. I again requested to be taken to Port
+Famine;&mdash;no, I should be taken to &ldquo;Holland.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>I mounted behind him, and we travelled all day in the
+direction of Cape Virgin. For two days and nights I had
+eaten nothing, and drunk nothing but sea-water, and, in
+fact, had taken very little food for three days. We arrived
+about dark at an eminence commanding a view of
+their new squatting ground. Here we halted to take a
+short survey of the encampment. To them, doubtless, the
+prospect was beautiful; to me it was heart-sickening, but I
+strove to keep up cheerful appearances. Down in a valley
+or deep marshy hollow, covered with tall grass or rushes,
+an almost innumerable drove of horses were seen grazing;
+and beyond, at a short distance, the surface was thickly
+dotted with huts, erected, or in process of erection, by
+female architects. Children, in swarms like summer flies,
+and with no more artificial covering than those insects,
+were capering and shouting in high glee. At length we
+descended to the rude village; after tacking about, first to
+the right and then to the left, like a ship against a head
+wind, we came gallantly into town, and drew up at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+chief&rsquo;s lodge. I was glad to dismount, sore with bestriding
+the skeleton of a horse.</p>
+
+<p>Here I again took the liberty of proposing a trip to
+Port Famine, offering to go alone, if they would not go
+with me. The chief told me, with emphasis, to say no
+more about it. He would take me to &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; and
+there get rum and tobacco. &ldquo;Only get me there,&rdquo; I said
+to myself, &ldquo;and much good may your rum and tobacco do
+your old carcass!&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>On the third day of our encampment here the tribe was
+divided, and I was sent off with one of the chief&rsquo;s lieutenants.
+A more blood-thirsty rascal could not be found
+in the tribe. This step was probably taken by the chief to
+get rid of my importunities to visit Port Famine, the
+frequent renewal of which had evidently worried him. My
+new guardian regaled my ears, from time to time, with
+stories of his murderous exploits, most likely in order to
+instil into me a wholesome dread of his power, and a
+submissive temper under his authority. The details of his
+bloody yarns are too shocking to repeat. One story, on
+which he seemed to dwell with peculiar satisfaction, as it
+was confirmed by more reliable authority afterwards, I will
+here relate, with such other particulars as I gained by
+subsequent information.</p>
+
+<p>About two years before, the British brig Avon was in
+the Santa Cruz river. Captain Eaton, her commander,
+went on shore with his men, and bought some horses of the
+Indians, which he paid for in rum, tobacco and trinkets.
+After receiving their pay, they played the same trick as
+with me,&mdash;refused to deliver the horses. The captain was
+about getting under weigh, when the Indians, perceiving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+his intention to leave them, went down to the shore opposite
+the vessel, and beckoned him to come on shore,
+signifying that they would give up the horses, as agreed.
+The boat was sent ashore, and six or eight Indians returned
+in it to the brig. They surrounded the captain on the
+quarter-deck, and told him the horses were coming. He
+stepped to the rail with his glass, to observe motions on
+shore; while thus engaged, the savages came up behind,
+drew out their long knives, and stabbed him to the heart.
+He sunk lifeless on the rail, and fell upon the deck.
+Seizing him by the hair, and raising him partly on their
+knees, they cut his throat, and stabbed him again and
+again, to make the work of death sure. They then rushed
+upon the mate and stabbed him, but not mortally; he
+threw himself exhausted down the hatchway, and had just
+strength enough to secrete himself among the cargo. The
+boy was dealt with in the same manner as the captain, and
+one or two sailors, being wounded, succeeded, like the
+mate, in getting below deck and secreting themselves.
+The remainder of the crew were fortunately off in a boat at
+this time, and escaped the massacre. The savages ate and
+drank on board, and then plundered the brig of such
+articles as suited their fancy. Mr. Douglass, of &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo;
+being on board the brig, was not murdered, but carried on
+shore and detained. A gentleman named Simms afterwards
+endeavored to effect the release of Mr. Douglass.
+He gave them all that they demanded as ransom, and was
+then himself detained to keep his friend company. A
+third embassy was undertaken by Mr. John Hall, of whom
+the reader will learn more hereafter. He paid a large
+ransom for his two friends, and was then served as they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+had been. He succeeded in effecting his escape the next
+day; but Douglass and Simms were carried off, murdered,
+and, it is supposed,&mdash;I believe with good reason,&mdash;that
+their bodies were eaten. The Avon, after being plundered,
+fell into the hands of the remainder of the crew, and sailed
+for Montevideo.</p>
+
+<p>I travelled with this ruffian about ten days. He was a
+hard master, though I cannot charge him with personal ill-treatment
+that amounted to cruelty. Our life was monotonous
+enough. We slept a good share of the time when
+we rested, drank pure water when we could get it, and ate
+what fell in our way; though the reader may be assured
+that we saw some hungry days. At the expiration of ten
+days, the tribe was re&uuml;nited at a place agreed upon. Here
+we continued several days, the natives occupied exclusively
+with gambling, which was alike their daily labor and
+recreation. When the demands of hunger became too
+imperative to be longer postponed, they would go out and
+hunt, after which they resumed their games.</p>
+
+<p>Gambling is a vice to which they are greatly addicted,
+and they pursue it with a perseverance and ardor worthy
+of amateurs in more civilized communities. The implements
+used are bits of guanaco-skin, about the size of
+common playing-cards, on which are rudely depicted dogs
+and a variety of other beasts, with divers mystic marks and
+scrawls, done with a stick in a pigment composed of clay,
+blood and grease. Unlike their compeers in more enlightened
+circles, they put down stakes on only one side,
+for which the opposite players contend. In this way they
+rid themselves of their saddles, bridles, knives, and whatever
+other portable articles they may have to hazard.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>
+Nay, I have seen them inflamed to such a passion as to
+take the mantles from their women&rsquo;s shoulders, telling
+them to protect themselves from the cold as they could.</p>
+
+<p>But where was &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; all this time? They told
+me at first that we should be only four days reaching
+it, and already more than ten had passed. On inquiry,
+they said that the journey would be completed in six
+days; on we went, for <i>sixteen</i> days more, with the same
+dull routine, the Indians assigning seven or eight days
+as the minimum time. The place seemed to be all the
+while receding. I had long since become aware that there
+was no truth in them; but persisted in questioning them,
+to call forth fresh lies, which they uttered with marvellous
+fluency, as if it were vastly easier than speaking the
+truth.</p>
+
+<p>After the re&uuml;nion of the tribe, I implored the old chief
+to take me back to his lodge, and to his especial care; to
+which he consented, much to my satisfaction. With him
+I felt a kind of security unknown elsewhere; under God,
+I relied alone on his protection. He alone of the tribe had
+the power to defend me, and I spared no pains to secure his
+good-will. To this end, I made him large promises of such
+things as I thought would arouse his cupidity, or stimulate
+his appetites, as well as an abundance of ornaments
+for his wives and children, if he would only take me to
+some place inhabited by white people. This policy was
+extended to his household; disagreeable as the task was,
+I forced myself to caress his dirty children, and to tell
+them what pretty things I intended to give them. By
+these, and such-like demonstrations, I flattered myself
+it might be possible to keep on peaceable terms with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+old Parosilver, and enlist his authority for me, if circumstances
+should compel me to appeal to it.</p>
+
+<p>The re&uuml;nited tribe remained in camp three or four days,
+dividing their time between gambling and hunting. When
+I accompanied the hunters, as I sometimes did, I was sure
+to get something to eat towards night, as they invariably
+kindled a fire and cooked part of the game on the spot
+where it was killed. Their method of preparing all meats
+was essentially the same as has been described; tossing
+large pieces into the fire, or suspending them over it,
+till they were somewhat smoked and dried, and then devouring
+them, without salt, or any other condiment but
+the sauce of hunger. Cooking the ostrich, however, forms
+an exception: the feathers are plucked out, the bones
+dissected and removed; hot stones are placed within the
+body, the skin is tightly sewed together, and the whole is
+partially roasted on the embers. The lacings are then
+cut, and the meat is served up; it has an excellent flavor,
+far surpassing that of the domestic turkey. The bird is
+covered with a layer of fat, half an inch thick, which is
+melted, and collects in the body, forming a condiment
+which is relished as the greatest luxury of Patagonian
+living. If any fragments of the repast remain, they are
+slung to the backs of the saddles, and so carried home,
+dangling at the horses&rsquo; sides, till they are so begrimed
+with dust as to defy all conjecture as to their quality or
+origin. These choice morsels are proffered to the home
+department, are received with smiles of gratitude, and
+devoured with a gust sharpened by long abstinence. It
+was noticeable that the plumage of the ostrich, though
+beautiful, was not at all valued by the Indians; large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+quantities of the feathers are blown all over the country,
+without attracting the least regard, while men and women
+disfigure themselves with paint, and load their persons
+with the cheapest of all trumpery, brass and copper and
+beads, picked up from traders, or stolen.</p>
+
+<p>The hunting of the guanaco is not only their chief
+reliance for food, but a spirited amusement, conducted
+after a fashion peculiar alike to hunters and hunted. Patagonia,
+as before mentioned, has no trees, but is covered
+here and there, in patches, with a kind of under-brush of
+scrub growth, and the plains extend back for hundreds of
+miles from the Atlantic shore, like a vast rolling prairie.
+This affords a clear and excellent hunting-ground, with
+nothing to conceal the game, or hinder the pursuer, except
+now and then a clump of low bushes, or the tall grass of
+the marshes. Two to four hundred Indians on horseback,
+bare-headed, and with their skin mantles about them, and
+each having the bolas and his long knife tucked beneath
+his belt, the whole followed by an innumerable pack of
+dogs of every kind, down to curs of low degree, make up
+a hunting party; as far as the eye can reach, their gigantic
+forms, diminished by the distance, may be seen projected
+on the horizon, their long hair streaming in the wind.
+Presently a thickness is perceived in the air, and a cloud
+of dust arises,&mdash;a sure indication that a herd of guanacos
+has been beaten up, and is now approaching. All eyes
+are fixed intently on the cloud; it soon appears as if
+several acres of earth were alive, and in rapid motion.
+There is a herd of from five hundred to a thousand of these
+animals, infuriated, rushing forward at their utmost speed
+whatever direction they may chance to take, they follow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+in a straight line; and, as soon as their course is ascertained,
+the Indians may be seen running their horses at break-neck
+pace to plant themselves directly in the course of the living
+tide. As the game approach, the hunter puts spurs to his
+horse and rushes across their track. When within twenty
+or thirty yards, he jerks the bolas from his girdle, and, whirling
+it violently above his head, lets fly. The weapon usually
+strikes the head or neck of the animal, and winds
+itself about his fore-legs, bringing him to the ground. The
+hunter dismounts, cuts the victim&rsquo;s throat, remounts, and is
+again in pursuit. The whizzing missile, unerring in its aim,
+brings down another and another, till the party are satisfied
+with their chase and their prey. The dogs fall upon
+the poor animals, when helplessly entangled by the bolas,
+and often cruelly mangle them before the hunter has time
+to despatch them. Seldom does any one miss the game he
+marks. It is the height of manly ambition among them,
+the last result of their training, to excel in the chase.</p>
+
+<p>The sport being over, then comes the dressing of the
+meat. The body is split open, the entrails removed, the
+heart and large veins opened, to permit the blood to flow
+into the cavity. The Indians scoop up with their hands
+and eagerly drink the blood. When their thirst is satisfied,
+the remainder is poured into certain of the intestines
+selected for the purpose, to become (to their accommodating
+tastes) a luxury as highly prized as any surnamed of Bologna.
+The ribs are disjointed from the back-bone, and,
+with the head, discarded as worthless. The body is quartered,
+cutting through the skin; the quarters, tied together
+in pairs, are thrown across the horses&rsquo; backs, and conveyed
+to the camp. Arrived at their wigwams, the chivalrous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+hunters never unlade their beasts, but lean upon the horses&rsquo;
+necks till their wives come out and relieve them of the
+spoil. They then dismount, unsaddle their horses, and turn
+them loose.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst remaining at our present encampment, strong indications
+of dissatisfaction were apparent, which manifestly
+had reference to me. There was a large party that had
+always entertained hostile feelings towards me; and I now
+found it necessary to exert myself to the utmost to quell
+their discontent, by making large promises of presents to
+men, women and children, &ldquo;due and payable&rdquo; on arrival at
+some white settlement; also, by humoring their caprices,
+and flattering their vanity with the most honeyed words
+at my command. The reader, I hope, will not harshly
+judge of the deceptions which are here and elsewhere
+avowed in this narrative. I was placed in circumstances
+which, it seemed to me, made this a legitimate and necessary
+mode of self-defence. It was plain that my only way
+of escape would be by some negotiation for ransom, and the
+Indians had conceived expectations of very large profit to
+be made out of me. They were told, when we landed, that I
+was the captain of the ship,&mdash;an unfortunate error, but
+one that I could not repair. I was naturally looked upon
+as so much the more valuable hostage. My only resource
+was to act in character: to magnify my own importance, to
+increase their expectations, whenever I found myself sinking
+in the scale of their favor,&mdash;to make them feel, in short,
+that they had an immense interest in preserving my life,
+and getting me to &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; or some other white settlement,
+with the most convenient speed. And if some of
+the fictions appear gross, it is enough to say that they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>
+were such as seemed, at the time, to be adapted to the
+grossness of their apprehensions and desires, and to the most
+sure accomplishment of the purpose in view.</p>
+
+<p>Yet, so false-hearted and treacherous were they, that
+one could never be for a moment certain what impression
+was made. Liars in grain themselves, it was only
+natural for them to distrust every one else. Whenever
+I spoke, and especially when making promises, the old
+chief would look me steadily in the eye, as though piercing
+my inmost thoughts. But, in process of time, I so
+schooled myself to the exercise, that I could return his
+look and tell the toughest stories without blinking. Some
+of them were to the full as credible as those of Munchausen.
+It was constantly necessary to put memory and
+imagination to the rack, to call forth something new and
+astonishing wherewith to divert their fancy, and pre&ouml;ccupy
+their minds from meditating mischief against me, of which
+I had continual reason to be afraid. Secure against any detection
+of the plagiarism, I drew largely from the adventures
+of Sinbad the Sailor, the marvels of the Arabian Nights,
+and the cunning devices of Gil Blas, the materials of which
+served, when duly mixed with my own veritable experience,
+to excite their curiosity, if not to awaken awe and superstitious
+reverence. They would sit around me for hours,
+as eager as so many children, their eyes and ears all intent,
+while in broken Spanish, mixed with a few Indian phrases
+that had been grafted into my speech through the ear, aided
+by abundant gesticulations, that shadowed forth and illustrated
+whatever was obscure in expression, I spun yarns
+of no common length, strength and elasticity. Sometimes, in
+response to a general call from the company, the old chief<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+at the end of some marvellous tale, would command me to
+tell it again. This was no easy task, considering the freaks
+which my imagination usually played, without restraint, in
+the progress of the narrative. In no long time, however, I
+learned to imitate the prudence of boys who turn down
+the leaves of their books, or of Indians who break down
+the shrubs and twigs along a new path, by taking special
+note of my deviations,&mdash;a sort of mental dog&rsquo;s-ear, or
+way-mark, interposed at the point of departure. It was not
+difficult to retrace the way at their bidding, and give
+them the whole journey, to its minutest turnings.</p>
+
+<p>The excitement and dissatisfaction which I had remarked
+and dreaded appeared to have died away, when one night
+I had startling evidence that it was still active. At the
+usual hour of rest, as I was expecting every moment to be
+ordered, like a dog, to my cold corner of the lodge, a gigantic,
+ill-favored fellow made his appearance, and exchanged,
+in an under tone, a few words with the chief. Without
+comprehending a word that was passing, I could see, by
+their significant glances, that the colloquy concerned me,
+and that it boded me no good. The giant soon disappeared.
+The chief sat a moment in silence, rose, and ordered me to
+follow him. To the question where he was taking me, no
+other answer was vouchsafed than &ldquo;Come along!&rdquo; We
+had proceeded but a short distance when I observed a
+group of Indians sitting in a circle on the earth. The sight
+almost froze my blood. The most dismal apprehensions
+seized upon me. There needed no wizard to tell the import
+of the scene. The <i>fatal ring</i>, so much to be dreaded by
+those who are cast upon the tender mercies of savages, was
+set for me. The suddenness of it aggravated the blow. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>
+almost paralyzed thought, and arrested my powers of motion.
+The catastrophe of the tragedy, I thought, is at
+hand, unless arrested by the interposition of a higher power.
+In my way to the dreaded spot I sent up a silent supplication
+that He whose eye marked all my footsteps, and
+whose power was all-sufficient for my protection against
+utmost peril, would keep me in that hour of my &ldquo;extremity,&rdquo;
+and make it, according to the proverb, His &ldquo;opportunity.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at the ring, I found the Indians squatting on
+the ice and snow awaiting us, with their cutlasses and
+large knives tucked under their blankets,&mdash;weapons they
+never carry except when they expect to use them. I was
+ordered within, and seated myself as near as possible to
+the chief. They presently began talking in rotation, as they
+sat, in their own tongue. Their words were mainly unintelligible;
+but the deadly malice that flashed from the eyes,
+kindled in the features, and animated the gesticulations, of
+some of them, left no room to doubt the significance of their
+speech. A part of them were clamorous against my life, as
+they had constantly been. Others appeared to be irresolute,
+and said little; but, so far as could be discovered, no
+voice was raised in my favor. The chief spoke last,&mdash;I
+hung upon his lips, and anxiously scrutinized his face and
+action. I gathered that he was in favor of holding on a
+while longer, and using me as a decoy, to lure others within
+their power; reminding them of my promises,&mdash;the quantities
+of rum and tobacco they were to get from me, the
+trinkets destined for women and children. He was for getting
+the booty before cutting the matter short with me.
+His remarks evidently had great weight with the council,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+and exerted a soothing effect on all of them. At this point
+I thought it a meet season to impress upon their minds that
+I was of some consequence in the world, and asked leave to
+speak for myself, which was granted. Thereupon I launched
+forth in an oration, the chief acting as interpreter, and
+retailing it to the circle sentence by sentence:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Buenos Senores! Me mucho Grande Americano capitan,
+mismo commodant mucho mass, mucha barca, mucha
+galeta, muchos soldados, muchos marinarios. Me tene
+mucho mucho big guns, bastante poquito mismo bastante,
+cutlass, pistols mucho bastante. Vuestros hombres buenos
+per me, mi marinarios, mi soldados, buenos per vos. Othro
+corso usted malo rumpe me,&rdquo; &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c. In such a jumble
+of Spanish, English and Indian, duly set off with grimace
+and gesture, I gave them to understand that they were
+dealing with no inferior personage, but with one who was at
+home as good as the president; one having at command
+abundance of steamships and sailing vessels of all sorts,
+with soldiers and mariners, big guns and little guns, pistols
+and cutlasses. That if they were good to me they would
+receive good from me and mine; but that, if they did me
+any harm, men would come from North America in numbers
+as incalculable as the hairs of their heads, and kill
+every mother&rsquo;s son of them. Furthermore, if they would
+take me to some white settlement, whether American, English,
+French or Spanish, I would order the white people to
+give them rum, tobacco, flour, rice, sugar and tea. <i>Of
+course</i> the white men could do no less than obey, and they
+would thus be enabled to indulge themselves in luxuries
+almost without limit.</p>
+
+<p>It was evident, at a glance, that my speech was seasonable,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+and took effect in the right quarter. Their eyes stood out
+with wonder, and the sternness of their countenances was
+relaxed. They acquiesced in the proposal to postpone final
+action for the present, and see what could be made out of me
+before doing their worst. In a few days, they said, they
+would take me to &ldquo;Holland;&rdquo; but, no matter what time was
+limited, that &ldquo;undiscovered country&rdquo; seemed continually further
+off,&mdash;&ldquo;a name&rdquo; without any &ldquo;local habitation.&rdquo; Their
+conduct in this was determined, as I was afterwards assured,
+by the fact that they were entirely undecided what to do
+with me. They longed for the good things I had told them
+of, and their greedy appetites could only be satisfied by
+taking me to a white settlement. On the other hand, they
+were painfully suspicious that I meant to give them the
+slip, and dreaded the result of bringing me into the vicinity
+of any settlement; while, at the same time, my grandiloquent
+assumptions and lofty threats made them shrink from
+the thought of doing me serious harm. The big guns and
+little guns greatly disturbed their imaginations. In short,
+I seemed to them an ugly customer&mdash;bad to keep, and bad
+to get rid of. They temporized, therefore, promised and
+hesitated, and postponed, and promised again. There was
+no use in trying to hurry their movements. So I gave them
+line upon line, seeking every opportunity to deepen the
+troublesome impression that they assumed a mighty responsibility
+when they made me a prisoner, and that their welfare
+depended greatly on the issue.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IV.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Corey Inlet&mdash;Another disappointment&mdash;A hunting frolic with an unpleasant
+termination&mdash;Moving of the camp&mdash;Aimless wanderings&mdash;Alarm&mdash;A
+marriage treaty and an unsuccessful suitor&mdash;Laws of marriage&mdash;Qualifications
+of a husband&mdash;Feminine quarrels&mdash;A marriage
+in high life&mdash;Dressing meat&mdash;Profaneness&mdash;Absence of religious
+ideas&mdash;Mysterious ceremony&mdash;Reasons for abstaining from religious
+instruction&mdash;The metals&mdash;State of the arts in Patagonia&mdash;Tailoring&mdash;Fashion.</p>
+
+<p>The next move of the tribe brought us within about a
+mile of Corey Inlet. The day after we halted, in full view
+of the south Atlantic, on looking out upon the water, two
+masts were plainly descried, evidently those of some vessel
+running down to this inlet. On going up an elevation commanding
+a better view, it proved to be a topsail schooner.
+She had undoubtedly mistaken this false cape for Cape
+Virgin, at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan. I pointed
+out the vessel to the Indians, and requested them to take
+me to the shore, that I might, if possible, communicate with
+her and be ransomed. After some delay, they complied;
+but, as we approached the beach, she was seen suddenly to
+haul off the shore and stand down the coast, having probably
+found out her mistake. We made all possible haste to
+gain the beach before she could have time to pass out of
+sight. I mounted a tall cliff, where I could distinctly see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+the men on deck, and, standing on the horse&rsquo;s back, waved
+my jacket, and made every possible demonstration to attract
+their notice. All in vain. The little vessel sailed steadily
+on, as if in mockery of my hopes. I watched her receding
+figure with an aching heart, till she vanished from sight.
+Thoughts of home and its familiar circle, of lost enjoyments,
+and of the suffering that must be a guest there, had long
+tantalized my sleeping and embittered my waking dreams.
+These were quickened and concentrated in a burning focus,
+by the light of such a vision from the world of my past
+existence, only to inflict the keener torture upon my sensibilities.
+My situation became more intolerable by every
+fresh disappointment. It was almost enough to drive me
+mad. Must I, then, give up all hope of rescue?</p>
+
+<p>A few minutes passed, and the tempest of feeling passed
+with them. Reflection convinced me that the indulgence
+of such feelings was not only useless, but actually pernicious,
+as tending to unfit me for rational and successful contrivance.
+My condition, truly, was dreadful; so much the
+more necessary was it to exercise the most calm and patient
+and self-possessed prudence, in order to devise and execute
+any purpose of escape. Like the surgeon who looks with
+steady nerve on the quivering frame subjected to his knife,
+I must nerve myself to look the gloomy problem of my lot,
+without shrinking, fully in the face, and keep my emotions,
+in all circumstances, strictly under the control of the
+calculating judgment; a maxim, like many others, much
+easier uttered now than to be thought of then, and far
+easier asserted than exemplified. Fully bent on effecting
+my deliverance in some way, to the discovery of which all
+possible ingenuity was to be directed, my resolutions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+self-control were heroic enough. But to fulfil them,&mdash;to
+repress and disregard all those sympathies to which my
+whole being was bound,&mdash;this was indeed labor, too great,
+I often feared, to be accomplished. When the stress of
+inward conflict oppressed me, I would spring from my
+crouching-place in the lodge, rush into the open air, and
+seize upon every object that could in any degree divert
+attention and divide my thoughts. These exertions, with
+God&rsquo;s blessing, sufficed to restore, in some tolerable measure,
+the mental equilibrium, and to rescue me from the
+dominion of feelings the unrestrained action of which
+would have driven me to madness.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay of three or four days at this encampment,
+I had become so wearied with the monotony of their
+idleness, broken only by their desperate gambling,&mdash;the
+only thing, besides the chase, with which the Indians occupied
+themselves,&mdash;that for variety&rsquo;s sake, to divert my
+often-desponding moods, and to kill time, which hung
+heavily on my hands, I concluded to go out on a hunting
+frolic. Having procured a horse of the chief, and encased
+my lower extremities in a pair of native boots, much
+warmer than the ship shoes in which I had endured the
+cold, I set out with quite a party. We had gone six or
+eight miles, when I stopped for a short time, the rest of the
+troop riding off without regarding me. On remounting my
+charger, I put him to his utmost speed, in order to overtake
+them. While driving on at a furious rate, he stumbled and
+came to the ground, throwing his luckless rider over his
+head twenty feet or more, upon the hard, frozen ground.
+One ankle was severely sprained, and my whole body more
+or less bruised. So severe, indeed, was the shock, that I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+have occasional reminders of it to this day. No time was
+to be lost; and, with considerable effort, and no little pain,
+I succeeded in remounting. The swelling of my foot soon
+made my borrowed boots extremely uncomfortable, and I
+wished myself safely back at the lodge; but, at whatever
+expense of suffering, I had no resource but to follow the
+hunters till such time as they should see fit to return.
+The remembrance of that day&rsquo;s torment will not soon be
+lost. We arrived at the camp late in the evening; and,
+having been unsuccessful in the chase, went supperless to
+bed. On crawling into the hut and removing my boots, a
+sad sight was disclosed; but there was no present remedy.
+Dragging myself wearily into my corner, I had just
+crouched upon the skin, which had served for a saddle
+during the day and was still reeking from the horse&rsquo;s back,
+when a great dog came along, and threw his whole weight
+upon the lame foot, causing me to scream aloud for the
+pain. I drew back the serviceable foot, and gave him a
+kick that sent him through the fire and against the front
+of the lodge. Sleep kept at a distance till near morning,
+when I gained a brief oblivion of suffering.</p>
+
+<p>Day at last dawned, and with the morning&rsquo;s light came
+the busy note of preparation for removal. Down came the
+tents; the squaws packing up the furniture, and the Indians
+chasing and lassoing their horses. The noise and
+confusion, disagreeable enough under any circumstances,
+made the scene no inapt representative of chaos, from
+which I was glad to be delivered on the most expeditious
+terms possible; and I was easily persuaded to try my
+fortune again in the chase, more especially as we had nothing
+for breakfast. No words can do more than partial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+justice to one of these moving scenes. Not only the skin
+roofs of their wigwams, but the stakes and poles which constitute
+the frames, are carried along with them. Their
+furniture gives them little trouble, seldom consisting of
+more than the skins on which they sleep, an ox-horn tinder-box,
+a few sticks for roasting meat, and a leathern water-bucket.
+Tents and furniture are all packed together on
+their horses&rsquo; backs. The pappooses in travelling are lashed
+to a kind of wooden sledge, rounded at the ends like sleigh-runners,
+and crossed with narrow slats, that bind the parts
+strongly together. The little brats are bound upon these
+machines, which are so shaped that their heads and feet are
+much below the general level of their bodies,&mdash;a very uncomfortable
+position for the youngsters, if they have as
+much sensibility to pain as other children, of which I
+incline to doubt, as they are inured from birth to almost
+every species of hardship. The sledge, with its living
+burden, is thrown across the horse&rsquo;s back, and made fast to
+the load. The mother mounts to the top of the pack,
+resting her feet on the horse&rsquo;s neck, and armed with a
+cudgel, with which she vigorously belabors the beast, right
+and left. The pappooses, not liking the quarters assigned
+to them, set up a general squalling. Mothers and maiden
+aunts join in full chorus, drawling out, at the top of their
+voices, &ldquo;H&#333;r&#299;! mutty, mutty! H&#333;r&#299;! mutty, mutty!&rdquo;
+without the least change, to the thousandth repetition.
+All these arrangements are made with remarkable celerity&mdash;in
+thirty minutes not a tent is left standing, but the
+whole tribe, their tenements and chattels, wives and brats,
+are all packed upon horses, and the motley cavalcade moves
+off like an army of beggars on horseback.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:482px" src="images/illus068.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">BREAKING UP OF CAMP.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the present occasion the movement was delayed,
+while we rode in search of something to eat. The chase
+was unsuccessful, scarcely enough being obtained to more
+than sharpen our appetites for dinner. The scanty meal
+being over, the whole company began their journey, which
+in its tortuous windings was not unlike that of the
+Israelites in the wilderness, but unlike that in the respect
+that we seemed to have no particular destination or object,
+except to explore new hunting-grounds, and gratify the
+capricious restlessness of the Indians. One very desirable
+end was answered,&mdash;we got enough to eat, as we were successful
+in killing a large quantity of game. The Indians,
+it was noticeable, were never at a loss to find their camps.
+So familiar did they seem with all their haunts and the
+general shape of the country, that though the surface presented
+to my eye scarcely any distinguishable way-marks,
+they would strike off from any point, however distant, and
+go with unerring aim straight to their tents. In returning
+laden with booty to our new homes, I was surprised to
+observe no indications whatever of water in the vicinity;
+a singular departure, at first sight, from their invariable
+custom, so far as I had noticed. Very soon the squaws
+issued from their huts, each with her leathern bucket.
+Curiosity prompted me to follow them a little way, when a
+spring was discovered, from which they had to dip the
+water with their ox-horn cups till the buckets were filled.</p>
+
+<p>About this time a new phase of life presented itself, to
+cast light on an important item of the social economy
+established in Patagonia. Looking out of our wigwam one
+evening just at dusk, I noticed an unusual concourse of
+Indians about two hundred yards distant. There were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+fifty or more, headed by one of the most ruffianly rascals
+in the tribe, marching in the direction of our lodge. I
+spoke to the chief about it, whereupon he went immediately
+to the back of the hut, and sat down on his little
+bed, his cutlass hanging beside him from a knot of one of
+the stakes. This he took down, laid it across his knees,
+and folded his arms. Something, I saw, was wrong. In
+anticipation of the worst that might befall me, I had
+found, a short time before, the handle of an old knife
+among the chief&rsquo;s trumpery, and also an odd blade; these
+I had put together, and the chief permitted me to carry it
+about my person, the only weapon he allowed me. I now
+planted myself on my knees beside him, and prepared to
+sell my life as dearly as possible, should the mob enter
+with evil designs towards me. The consciousness that I
+was in their power, and was sure to have the worst of any
+serious quarrel, made it my study to keep the peace with
+them as far as circumstances would admit; but there was
+a limit to my control of events, a very narrow limit,
+which I had constant reason to fear would be overborne
+by the impetuous hatred of my enemies, when nothing
+would be left but desperate resistance. Such a crisis
+seemed near, when the chief was himself reduced to a
+defensive attitude, and was indeed besieged in his own
+lodge.</p>
+
+<p>The motley throng surrounded the hut, their numbers
+constantly swelled by fresh arrivals; some were squat
+upon the ground, others peeping through the crevices.
+Presently one of the number addressed the chief, and the
+two conversed for some time in a low and unintelligible,
+but decided and emphatic tone. The crowd outside appeared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+to be a good deal excited, and kept up a continuous
+hum of rapid conversation. I looked and listened, with
+mingled curiosity and dread, while the chief repeated the
+same thing over and over again, in a firm, authoritative
+tone, tinged with anger. Unable to conjecture what was
+on foot, or to bear any longer the agony of suspense, I
+patted him familiarly on his naked breast, told him he had
+&ldquo;a good heart,&rdquo; begged that he would not suffer the
+Indians to harm me. &ldquo;You go sleep,&rdquo; was his answer;
+&ldquo;no Indians come into this house to-night.&rdquo; I inquired
+what they were after, but no answer was vouchsafed, and
+he resumed his mysterious colloquy with the outsiders.
+The idea of sleeping under such circumstances was out of
+the question; I was wide awake, and bent on keeping
+so,&mdash;sorely bewildered at the strange goings on, and not
+a little terrified, but holding fast by my sole weapon of
+defence, and waiting a favorable opportunity to interpose
+another inquiry. The chief turned his head; and, perceiving
+my vigilance, repeated in an angry tone his injunction
+to sleep. This was a drop too much; and, clasping
+my arms about his dirty neck, patting his breast, and looking
+(with as confiding an air as I could assume) into his
+dull eyes, I begged him to speak to me, to tell me what
+these men wanted. &ldquo;Do they want to break my head?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The men don&rsquo;t want to hurt you,&rdquo; he said; &ldquo;Indian
+wants a girl for his wife; poor Indian, very poor, got no
+horses nor anything else. I won&rsquo;t give him the woman.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>So speedy a descent from the height of my fears was not
+satisfactory; it was impossible to credit this explanation
+of such a formidable scene. I apprehended that it was a
+pure fiction, extemporized for the purpose of quieting me;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+but, as he seemed more communicative, I swallowed my
+doubts, and questioned him further. &ldquo;What does poor
+Indian say?&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Says he&rsquo;ll steal plenty horses when we get where
+they are, and give the woman plenty of grease. Says he
+is a good hunter, good thief.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>These high titles to consideration did not seem to be
+admitted by the party they were offered to conciliate; on
+the contrary, the chief pronounced him a sleepy mink-skin
+of a fellow,&mdash;no thief at all; one that would never own a
+horse in the world. This opinion, which he was good
+enough to favor me with, he communicated to the party
+chiefly concerned, telling him that he was a poor, good-for-nothing
+Indian, he should not have the woman, and
+that was the end of it. After a little more jabber, and
+abundance of wrangling, the mob dispersed, much to my
+relief. Satisfied, by further conversation on the subject
+with old Parosilver, whose triumph over the mutiny had
+put him into better temper than usual, that the affair did
+not imminently concern my safety or welfare, I lay down
+to rest.</p>
+
+<p>In answer to further inquiries,&mdash;for I must plead guilty
+to a good deal of curiosity in respect of the poor Indian
+and his blasted hopes,&mdash;I was informed that without the
+chief&rsquo;s consent no marriage was permitted; that, in his
+judgment, no Indian who was not an accomplished rogue,&mdash;particularly
+in the horse-stealing line,&mdash;an expert hunter,
+able to provide plenty of meat and grease, was fit to have
+a wife on any terms. He never gave his consent for
+such lazy ones to take an extra rib; but, he very considerately
+added, all the difference it made was that some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>
+one else had to support the squaw till her suitor proved
+himself worthy, and acquired sufficient wealth to justify
+taking her to his wigwam; and, if he cared much for his
+<i>coury</i>, he would not be long in earning her; it would make
+him a first-rate thief,&mdash;the most indispensable title to
+favor in the tribe. It appeared that the possession of two
+horses, one for himself and one for his intended, was regarded
+as the proper outfit in a matrimonial adventure.</p>
+
+<p>The women are somewhat given to quarrelling among
+themselves; and, when their &ldquo;combativeness&rdquo; is once
+active, they fight like tigers. Jealousy is a frequent occasion.
+If a squaw suspects her liege lord of undue familiarity
+with a rival, she darts upon the fair enchantress with the
+fury of a wild beast; then ensues such a pounding, scratching
+and hair-pulling, as beggars description. The gay
+deceiver, if taken by surprise, slips quietly out, and stands
+at a safe distance to watch the progress of the combat,
+generally chuckling at the fun with great complacency.
+A crowd gathers round to cheer on the rivals; and the
+rickety wigwam, under the effect of the squall within,
+creaks and shivers like a ship in the wind&rsquo;s eye.</p>
+
+<p>While the <i>contract</i> of marriage is so jealously regarded
+by the chief as to be subject to a veto in every case where
+a proposed match appears in his eyes unsuitable, the
+<i>ceremony</i> is literally nothing at all. Due sanction having
+been given by the supreme authority, the bridegroom takes
+home his bride for better or worse, without any of the
+festivity which graces similar occasions elsewhere. About
+this time,&mdash;for, as I had no means of journalizing my experience,
+or even keeping the reckoning of weeks and
+months, it is quite impossible to assign dates,&mdash;a matrimonial<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+transaction took place, accompanied by unusual
+solemnities. The rank of one party, and the extraordinary
+accessories of the occasion, will justify a particular notice
+of this &ldquo;marriage in high life.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>One evening, the chief, his four wives, two daughters,
+an infant granddaughter, and myself, were scattered about
+the lodge, enveloped in a smoke of unusual strength and
+density. While the others sat around as unconcerned as
+so many pieces of bacon, I lay flat, with my face close to
+the ground, and my head covered with a piece of guanaco-skin,
+the only position in which it was possible to gain
+any relief from the stifling fumigation. While in this
+attitude, I fancied I heard the tramp of many feet without,
+and a confused muttering, as if a multitude of Indians
+were talking together. Presently a hoarse voice sounded
+in front, evidently aimed at the ears of some one within,
+to which the chief promptly replied. I caught a few
+words,&mdash;enough to satisfy me that I was not the subject of
+their colloquy, but that there was a lady in the case,&mdash;and
+listened curiously, without any of the fright which grew
+out of the previous negotiations. The conversation grew
+animated, and the equanimity of his high mightiness the
+chief was somewhat disturbed. I cast a penetrating glance
+into the smoke at the female members of our household,
+to discern, if possible; whether any one of them was
+specially interested. One look was sufficient; the chief&rsquo;s
+daughter (who, by the way, was a <i>quasi</i> widow, with one
+hopeful scion springing up by her side) sat listening to
+the conversation, with anxiety and apprehension visible in
+every feature. Her mother sat near her, her chin resting
+upon her hand, with an anxious and thoughtful expression<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+of countenance. The invisible speaker without, it soon
+appeared, was an unsuccessful suitor of the daughter, and had
+come with his friends to press his claim. He urged his suit,
+if not with classic, with &ldquo;earnest&rdquo; eloquence, but with success
+ill proportioned to his efforts. The chief told him he
+was a poor, good-for-nothing fellow, had no horses, and was
+unfit to be his son-in-law, or any one else&rsquo;s. The outsider
+was not to be so easily put off; he pressed his suit with
+fresh energy, affirming that his deficiency of horses was
+from want of opportunity, not from lack of will or ability
+to appropriate the first that came within his reach. On the
+contrary, he claimed to be as ingenious and accomplished a
+thief as ever swung a lasso or ran off a horse, and a mighty
+hunter besides, whose wife would never suffer for want of
+grease. The inexorable chief hereat got considerably excited,
+told him he was a poor devil, and might be off with
+himself; he wouldn&rsquo;t talk any more about it.</p>
+
+<p>The suppliant, as a last resort, appealed to the fair one
+herself, begging her to smile on his suit, and assuring her,
+with marked emphasis, that, if successful in his aspirations,
+he would give her <i>plenty of grease</i>. At this last argument
+she was unable to resist longer, but entreated her father to
+sanction their union. But the hard-hearted parent, not at
+all mollified by this appeal from his decision to an inferior
+tribunal, broke out in a towering passion, and poured forth
+a torrent of abuse. The mother here interposed, and besought
+him not to be angry with the young folks, but to
+deal more gently and considerately with them. She even
+hinted that he might have done injustice to the young man.
+He might turn out a smarter man than he had credit for.
+He might&mdash;who knew?&mdash;make a fine chief yet, possess<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+plenty of horses, and prove a highly eligible match for their
+daughter. The old fellow had been (for him) quite moderate,
+but this was too much. His rage completely mastered
+him. He rose up, seized the pappoose&rsquo;s cradle, and hurled
+it violently out of doors, and the other chattels appertaining
+to his daughter went after it in rapid succession. He
+then ordered her to follow her goods <i>instanter</i>, with which
+benediction she departed, responding with a smile of satisfaction,
+doubtless anticipating the promised luxuries of her
+new home, the vision of which, through the present tempest,
+fortified her mind against its worst perils. Leaving the
+lodge, she gathered up her scattered effects, and, accompanied
+by her mother, the bridal party disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>The chief sat on his horse-skin couch, his legs crossed
+partly under him, looking sour enough. Presently the
+bride and her mother returned, and now began the second
+scene. The chief no sooner recognized them than a sound&mdash;something
+between a grunt and a growl, but much nearer
+the latter than the former, and in a decided <i>crescendo</i>&mdash;gave
+warning of a fresh eruption. The rumbling grew
+more emphatic, and suddenly his fury burst on the head of
+his wife. Seizing her by the hair, he hurled her violently
+to the ground, and beat her with his clenched fists till I
+thought he would break every bone in her body, and reduce
+her substance to a jelly. Perhaps I was a little hard-hearted,
+but she had been one of my bitterest enemies, and I had a
+feeling that if some of her ill-will to me could be beaten out
+of her, I could be easily resigned to her fate. The drubbing
+ended, she rose and muttered something he did not
+like. He replied by a violent blow on the side of her head,
+that sent her staggering to the further end of the hut. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+last argument was decisive, and she kept her huge mouth
+closed for the night. There was a silent pause for some
+minutes, and, without another word, we ranged ourselves
+for repose. I thought the old heathen&rsquo;s conscience troubled
+him through the night; his sleep was broken, and he appeared
+very restless. Early the next morning he went to
+the lodge of the newly-married pair, and had a long chat
+with them. They thought him rather severe upon them at
+first; but, after a good deal of diplomacy, a better understanding
+was brought about. The young people could
+hardly get over a sense of the indignities they had received;
+but in the course of the day they returned, bag and baggage,
+to the old chief&rsquo;s tent, and made it their permanent
+abode.</p>
+
+<p>We now moved in a westerly direction, and on the way
+succeeded in capturing a good deal of game. Their mode
+of dealing with the carcass of the guanaco is enough to
+dissipate whatever appetizing qualities the meat&mdash;in itself
+very palatable&mdash;would otherwise possess. It was no
+uncommon circumstance, while the squaws were removing
+the hide, to see the dogs tugging at the other extremity,
+the women, meantime, crying out &ldquo;Eh! Ah!&rdquo; in a dissuasive,
+though not angry, tone. If the animals become
+too audacious, the ire of their mistresses is kindled, and they
+break out with &ldquo;Cashuran cashahy!&rdquo; a phrase equivalent
+to that which, in English, directs its object to a region
+unmentionable in ears polite.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians have, strictly speaking, no profane expressions.
+I never could learn that they worshipped or had any
+idea of a Supreme Being. The only observance which bore
+any aspect of religion was associated with something we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+should little think of as an object of adoration&mdash;the
+tobacco-pipe;&mdash;though, how far this is, in fact, an object
+of idolatry in Christian lands, it might not become me to
+speculate. The only occasions on which the Indians discovered
+any appearance of devotion were those of smoking.
+This may have been only a symptom of intoxication, but
+the reader may judge for himself.</p>
+
+<p>A group of a dozen or more assemble,&mdash;sometimes in a
+wigwam, sometimes in the open air. A vessel made of a
+piece of hide bent into a saucer-shape while green and
+afterwards hardened, or sometimes an ox-horn, filled with
+water, is set on the ground. A stone pipe is filled with the
+scrapings of a wood resembling yellow ebony, mixed with
+finely-cut tobacco. The company then lay themselves in a
+circle flat on their faces, their mantles drawn up to the tops
+of their heads. The pipe is lighted. One takes it into his
+mouth and inhales as much smoke as he can swallow; the
+others take it in succession, till all have become satisfied.
+By the time the second smoker is fully charged, the first
+begins a series of groanings and gruntings, with a slight
+trembling of the head, the smoke slowly oozing out at the
+nostrils. The groaning soon becomes general, and waxes
+louder, till it swells into a hideous howling, enough to
+frighten man or beast. The noise gradually dies away.
+They remain a short time in profound silence, and each imbibes
+a draught of water. Then succeeds another interval
+of silence, observed with the most profound and devotional
+gravity. All at length arise, and slowly disperse. Now,
+this may or may not have been a form of worship; but the
+circumstances attending it, the numbers uniformly engaged
+in it the formality with which it was invariably conducted,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+the solemnity of visage, the reverential grimace, the prostration,
+the silence, the trembling,&mdash;these, and traits of
+expression which are more easily discerned and remembered
+than described, gave me a decided impression that the
+whole had a superstitious meaning. The natural operation
+of the tobacco, and of the substance mixed with it, might
+explain part of the symptoms,&mdash;the writhing and groaning,&mdash;but
+these appeared to be a good deal in excess, and there
+were other features of the case which appeared to require
+another solution.</p>
+
+<p>I never asked any explanation. The mystery which savage
+tribes are so apt to throw around their religious rites,
+and their resentment at any unhallowed curiosity, I was
+not inclined to meddle with or provoke. If my conjectures
+were just as to the nature of this ceremony, inquiry might
+lead to unpleasant consequences. Ignorance appeared, on
+the whole, safer than knowledge of good or evil, gained at
+the risk of being caught trespassing on things forbidden.
+If any one thinks my precaution excessive, he is at liberty
+to take a different course whenever he finds himself in the
+jurisdiction of Parosilver, or any other Patagonian chief.</p>
+
+<p>The inquiry may arise, especially in the mind of the religious
+reader, whether I attempted to impart to my captors
+any knowledge of God, his attributes and laws. The answer
+is quite ready,&mdash;No, and for a variety of reasons. The
+writer did not understand enough of either Spanish or
+Indian to communicate intelligible ideas on any matters
+beyond the range of the senses, and Patagonia is pretty
+barren of sensible phenomena, which made my stock of
+words more limited than it might have been under more
+favorable circumstances. There was no finding &ldquo;tongues<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+in trees,&rdquo; or &ldquo;books in the running brooks;&rdquo; the land
+possesses neither in numbers sufficient to be conversable.
+&ldquo;Sermons in stones,&rdquo; even, must have been of very pebbly
+dimensions, and of no great weight. Had this difficulty
+been removed, I confess I had no great desire to surmount
+it. I was the object of suspicion and hostility. My
+life was in constant danger. To diminish, as far as possible,
+the causes of dislike, to mitigate their ferocious hate,
+to elude occasions of mischief, to delay what I feared could
+not be very long prevented, was my continual study. If
+the reader is not satisfied with this account of my conduct,
+I am sorry for it, but cannot afford any words of contrition.
+It is vastly easier, I may hint to the objector, to
+prescribe another&rsquo;s duties than to judge of one&rsquo;s own, especially
+where the two parties are in circumstances so
+widely differing. The Patagonians need the gospel&mdash;and
+the law&mdash;as much as any people I could name from personal
+observation. There was no trace of instruction imparted
+at a previous period, and the reception Christianity
+would meet with among them is yet to be discovered.</p>
+
+<p>Their pipes are made of a hard red stone, the bowl dug
+out with whatever iron or steel implement is at command
+to the dimensions of an ordinary clay pipe, the stem about
+an inch square, and three inches long, with a small perforation.
+A copper or brass tube, about two inches long,
+is fitted to the stem, and serves as a mouth-piece. This is
+made by bending or hammering a metallic plate about a
+small round stick, and soldering or cementing it with a
+glutinous substance thickened with earth.</p>
+
+<p>The copper, brass and iron, seen among them, was probably
+procured from unfortunate vessels wrecked on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>
+coast. I was informed by Captain Morton, of whom the
+persevering reader will know more hereafter, that he had
+touched at Sea Bear Bay for a harbor, and saw there great
+quantities of iron pumps, ships&rsquo; hanging knees, and other
+gear, from wrecks of vessels of all sizes. As he was bound
+for the land of gold, he thought it scarcely worth his while
+to collect the baser metals. Had he been homeward bound,
+he might have obtained a valuable cargo.</p>
+
+<p>As ornaments, bits of brass and copper, of silver and
+German silver, have a high value among the Indians, and
+when the metals are plenty such adornment is very common.
+The children&rsquo;s shoes have small oval pieces sewed
+on in front, and they appear on other parts of their dress.
+When scarce, they are more seldom seen. Blacksmithing
+in Patagonia is something of the rudest. Two hard flat
+stones do duty, the one as anvil, and the other as hammer.
+Of the effect of heat in making the metals malleable, and
+of the art of tempering, the people have no knowledge. To
+make a knife, they take a piece of iron hoop, or iron in any
+practicable shape, and hammer away upon it at a provokingly
+slow rate. Their blows are not heavy enough to
+do much execution; but they keep up a constant tap, tap,
+tap, hour by hour, till the iron is flattened to the required
+shape and dimensions. It is then rubbed on a smooth
+stone till it is worn down to an edge, and finally inserted
+into a wooden handle. Sometimes melted lead is poured
+into the handle, but lead appeared to be a scarce commodity.
+All mechanic arts, if they deserve the name, are
+in an equally rude and primitive stage. The simplicity of
+these people&rsquo;s ideas is indeed extraordinary. In invention
+or constructiveness they are babes. A Yankee boy, six<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+years old, would be a prodigy among them,&mdash;a miracle of
+genius.</p>
+
+<p>An opportunity was afforded, while in camp, to see some
+specimens of their tailoring or mantua-making achievements;&mdash;either
+term is appropriate, as the male and
+female dress do not differ in form, and but slightly in the
+mode of adjustment. The mantle or blanket is worn
+around the shoulders; those of the women are fastened together
+by the corners under the chin with a stick for a
+pin; the men hold theirs around them with their hands,
+except that when hunting they tie a string around the
+waist.</p>
+
+<p>The skins of young guanacos are selected for mantles, on
+account of the superior fineness and softness of the hair.
+Nearly a dozen skins are used for a single mantle, as a
+large part of each is esteemed unfit for use, and thrown
+away. The skins, while green, are stretched to their
+utmost tension on the ground to dry. When partially
+dried, they are scraped on the inside with a stone sharpened
+like a gun-flint, sprinkled the while with water, to facilitate
+the operation. When the surface is made tolerably smooth,
+and of a pretty uniform thickness, it is actively scoured
+with a coarse-grained stone, till it has a bright polish.
+The skin is again dried, then crumpled and twisted in the
+hands till it becomes perfectly soft and pliable. The
+thread, as has been stated, is made from the sinews of the
+ostrich. These are extracted by the exertion of great
+strength, and divided into strings about the size of ordinary
+shoe-thread. They are then twisted, the ends are
+scraped to a point, and when dry become stiff; they are
+now ready for use.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two pieces of skin are cut to fit each other. The
+tailoress (for all the work, from the curing of the skins to
+the last results, is done by the squaws) holds the edges
+together with the left hand, and drills them for sewing
+with a sharpened nail, held between the first two fingers of
+the right hand; the pointed thread, held between the
+finger and thumb, is inserted and drawn through, and so
+the work goes on. The stitches are tolerably fine, and a
+very neat seam is made. Other pieces are added, and
+when the whole is finished the seams are rubbed smooth
+with a bone. The fur being worn inside, there remains the
+work of outside decoration. With a due quantity of clay,
+blood, charcoal and grease, amalgamated for the purpose,
+the artist arms herself with a stick for a brush, and
+executes divers figures in black, on a red ground; which,
+if intended to shadow forth men, require a vigorous imagination
+to detect the purpose. They might pass for unhappy
+ghosts (if a little more ethereal in composition), or
+for deformed trees. They bear a rude resemblance to a
+chair in profile, or a figure 4; and are thickly disposed over
+the whole surface, in the attitude sometimes vulgarly
+termed &ldquo;spoon-fashion.&rdquo; The garment is now complete;
+the edges are carefully trimmed with a knife, and the
+fabric is thrown over the shoulders, with the infallible
+certainty of fitting as closely as the native tastes require.
+There is no trial of patience in smoothing obstinate wrinkles.
+A &ldquo;genteel fit&rdquo; is the easiest thing in the world; wherein
+Patagonian tailors have decidedly the advantage of their
+fellow-craftsmen in civilized lands.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER V.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Inclement weather&mdash;State of my wardrobe&mdash;Attempts to deprive me of
+my clothes&mdash;Powwow and horse-killing&mdash;Hair-combing extraordinary&mdash;Remedy
+for rheumatism&mdash;Sickness&mdash;Turn barber&mdash;A cold bath&mdash;Fasting&mdash;Discovery
+of my watch, and its effect&mdash;I am made
+showman&mdash;Lion-hunt&mdash;Successful chase.</p>
+
+<p>At our next halt we encamped in a deep, swampy
+valley. The weather was cold and stormy; rain, snow,
+sleet and hail, fell alternately, but did not accumulate on
+the earth to any considerable depth. Fitful gusts of wind
+came sweeping through the camp, making the wigwams
+shake fearfully. Our old lodge gallantly rode out the
+gale; but, either owing to its straining and working in the
+storm, or to some defects in the original structure, leaked
+shockingly all night. I was repeatedly awakened by a
+stream of cold water running under me. Giving the skin
+roof a few knocks to lighten it of its watery burden, and
+shaking the wet skin which constituted my couch, I would
+throw myself down, and resign myself to repose; but before
+quiet was fairly restored, another inundation would drive
+me to my feet. The night wore away with me, wet, cold
+and sleepless. After daybreak I rose, and continued for
+two hours in vigorous exercise to restore warmth to my
+chilled frame, before the Indians were astir. Fires were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+then kindled, and matters began to assume a more cheerful
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The weather, quite cool on my first landing, had grown
+gradually colder, and was becoming inclement. I was
+scantily prepared to endure the severity of winter. My
+under-garments, as before related, were desperately expended
+in trying to signal passing vessels. Cravat and
+pocket-handkerchief were appropriated to the adornment
+of the women in our household, to the no small envy of less
+favored ones. My sole article of linen was in shreds, and
+of a color that would afford matter for speculation to a
+jury of washerwomen. Stockings and shoes were sadly
+dilapidated; coat and trousers were glazed with dirt and
+grease till they shone like a glass bottle. The contents of
+my pockets were all confiscated,&mdash;purse, keys, knife, &amp;c.,&mdash;and
+a pair of pistols, of the use of which my captors
+knew nothing, were taken to pieces, and the brass mountings
+suspended about the necks of the chief&rsquo;s wives. In
+short, my outer man was nigh unto perishing, and I had no
+visible resources to arrest or repair the process of time,
+while I was not sufficiently inured to the climate to adopt
+the native dress without serious risk to health. But none
+of these things were allowed to trouble me. I took no
+thought for the morrow, but, according to the scriptural
+injunction, suffered the morrow to take care for the things
+of itself, esteeming sufficient unto each day the evil
+thereof.</p>
+
+<p>At an early period of my captivity, the chief and some
+other Indians had cast a longing eye on my clothes, and
+tried to seduce me into parting with them. They offered
+no compulsion in the matter, but resorted to all manner of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+tricks. It seemed that they thought a white man could
+afford to go without dressing. I explained to them that,
+having always worn clothes,&mdash;having in infancy, even,
+unlike Patagonian piccaninnies, been externally protected
+against the fresh air,&mdash;it was quite impossible for me to
+change my habits without the hazard of my life; and, if
+I should die in consequence of yielding to their wishes,
+they were reminded they would lose the valuable ransom
+they expected for me. This reasoning proved convincing;
+greatly as they longed for my wardrobe, they more desired
+rum and tobacco, and I was permitted the undisturbed
+enjoyment of the scanty covering left me.</p>
+
+<p>The storm continued for two days and nights; on the
+third day it cleared up. About mid-day, observing a
+crowd of Indians together with a huge jargon of tongues,
+I learned, on inquiry, that a horse was to be killed; a
+matter which, it appeared, was always the occasion of a
+solemn powwow. On reaching the spot, a poor old beast,
+lean and lank, with a lariat about his neck, stood surrounded
+by some fifty Indians. The squaws were singing,
+in stentorian tones, &ldquo;Ye! Ye! Yup! Yup! Lar, lapuly,
+yapuly!&rdquo; with a repetition that became unendurable, and
+drove me to a respectful distance. The horse&rsquo;s fore-legs
+were fast bound together, a violent push forward threw
+him heavily to the ground, and he was speedily despatched
+with a knife; anticipating, by a few days, the ordinary
+course of nature. Soon after my return to the wigwam, a
+huge portion of the carcass was sent to our quarters and
+hung up, to furnish our next meals! After being duly
+dressed by the women, with the aid of the dogs, and
+scorched and smoked according to usage, it was served<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+up,&mdash;my only alternative to starvation. Famine has no
+scruples of delicacy; if the reader is disgusted, he is in a
+state of sympathy with the writer.</p>
+
+<p>Early the next day we (literally) pulled up stakes, and
+were on the move; and, after journeying all day, encamped
+in a situation very like the one we left in the morning.
+The Indians spent their time, as usual, in gambling and in
+combing each other&rsquo;s hair, with a brush made of stiff dry
+roots, tied up together. The operator received as a fee
+the <i>game</i> captured in the process. The reader will excuse
+a more explicit statement of what, though less abominable
+than cannibalism, is hardly less repulsive.</p>
+
+<p>One evening our family circle were seated round a fire,
+which sent up volumes of smoke sufficiently dense to suit
+a savage of the most exacting taste, and which drove me,
+as usual, to the back part of the hut, where I lay flat on
+my face. One of the chief&rsquo;s wives was inveighing against
+me, as was her wont, and a second occasionally joined in
+the strain, by way of chorus. A third was cracking the
+bones of a guanaco, that her son Cohanaco might eat the
+marrow. The fourth and last of the women was attending
+to a piece of meat for our supper, fixed on a forked stick,
+in the smoke. Two sons were engaged, as usual, in doing
+nothing, except occasionally begging a little of the marrow,
+and scraping their dirty legs with a sheath-knife, by way
+of diversion; sundry by-plays, and little pieces of mischief,
+served to fill up the spare minutes. The old chief,
+who had been silently regarding the scene, now commenced
+talking, in a low, mumbling, guttural tone, to one of his
+wives. She was busily eying the toasting-fork, and studying
+the process of cooking; but, at her husband&rsquo;s instance,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+left them, and drew from their repository of tools a sharpened
+nail fixed in a wooden handle, like an awl. The
+chief stretched himself on the ground, face downwards; a
+surgical operation was plainly impending. What could
+the matter be? Had the chief, in the excess of his plumpness,
+burst open, like ripe fruit, requiring to be sewed up?
+I drew my head from beneath the protection I had provided
+against the smoke, and rose on my knees, to get a
+better view; the huge, black, greasy monster lay extended
+at his full length, his wife pinched up the skin on his
+back, pierced it with her awl, and continued the process
+till a number of perforations were made, from which the
+blood oozed slowly. I asked the meaning of this operation,
+and was told by the chief that he had pains in his back,
+for which this was the best remedy. Blood-letting, it
+seemed, is no monopoly of the faculty. I told him that in
+my country we applied, in such cases, a liquid called
+opodeldoc, an infallible remedy, and promised to procure
+him some when we got to Holland. This was henceforth
+added to my list of inducements.</p>
+
+<p>The old fellow righted himself, and leaned against one
+of the pillars of his palace; one of his partners pulled up
+the toasting-fork, and jerked the half-roasted and more
+than sufficiently smoked meat upon the ground, seized the
+knife which the boys had been playing with, and cut the
+mess into liberal pieces, which were thrown broadcast on
+either side. The chief&rsquo;s appetite did not appear to be
+affected either by his indisposition or by the extraordinary
+remedy applied; his portion of the <i>c&aacute;rne</i> disappeared
+behind his great white teeth with a haste that seemed to
+involve no waste.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Rheumatic affections, they told me, are very common
+among them; the chief showed me the arm of one of his
+wives, which was scarred from the wrist to the shoulder
+by the awl; and the operation was afterwards performed on
+other members of the family.</p>
+
+<p>Again we took up the line of march, travelling, as near
+as I could judge, west-north-west, and killing a quantity
+of game, both guanaco and ostrich. But the hardship of
+my life, aggravated by a constant flesh diet, and that eaten
+half raw, and at irregular seasons,&mdash;often going two days
+without food,&mdash;had, by this time, brought on a dysentery.
+This was no more than I had expected; but I knew of no
+remedy, and had to endure it as I could. We encamped,
+on the second day, near the banks of the river Gallegos; a
+fine spring of water issued from the river-bank into a low
+marshy ground, skirting the margin of the stream. By
+this time my illness had increased, till I felt unfit to
+travel further, and began to think that death could not
+be distant. No change of diet was practicable, and there
+was nothing to counteract its effect on my system. The
+pain and weariness of travelling did their part to aggravate
+the disorder; and mental discouragement&mdash;the sickness
+of hope deferred&mdash;completed my prostration. No
+human being in that desolate land cared for my sufferings,
+more than they would for those of a dog. Worn out with
+the constant irritations of a state of existence odious to
+every sensibility, tired and disheartened, but for one
+thought I could have gladly laid myself down to die,
+to get at once and forever beyond the reach of my savage
+tormentors. The thought of home, of wife and child, of
+friends and country, and all the unutterable emotions that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+respond to these precious names, at once tortured and
+strengthened me. These, and the thought that perhaps,
+after patient endurance, Divine Providence would restore
+me to the objects of my famished affections, made life still
+dear. These strengthened me to suffer and to strive.</p>
+
+<p>As I crawled out of the lodge, to look upon the sun, and
+breathe the pure air, and be refreshed by breezes untainted
+with the breath of cruel men, it came into my mind that
+some palatable or even tolerable species of plant or
+root would be wholesome for me. On looking about, there
+presented itself a specimen of large dock, such as is common
+in the United States; a weed of humble pretensions,
+but why not worthy of a trial? With what strength
+remained at command, I began a process of &ldquo;extracting
+roots,&rdquo; with good success. Taking a quantity into the
+hut, and roasting them in hot ashes, they were found to
+be not distasteful; I filled my pockets with them, and
+abandoned flesh-diet for a little time, to the sensible,
+though gradual, relief of my sufferings. Fortunately we
+had a season of bad weather, which prevented any advance
+movement for four or five days, and gave me time partially
+to recover strength. I could not sooner have kept
+my seat on a horse; and, if the alternative had been
+presented, the Indians, as I very well knew, would sooner
+have knocked me on the head than have allowed me to
+hinder their march for a day. A powwow was held over
+another horse, unserviceable alive, and therefore marked
+for diet; but this time I did not compete for any part of
+his carcass, my pocket-stores being quite sufficient, and
+more attractive. But in the fate of the poor beast I read<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>
+a warning to myself, to make haste and get well enough to
+move at the first signal.</p>
+
+<p>Away again,&mdash;this time facing about, and passing down
+the river. I needed rest; but, at whatever expense of
+suffering, needs must when a certain old gentleman drives.
+At the next stopping-place my services were called into
+requisition in a new department. One forenoon, as I
+sauntered towards our wigwam, after a stroll among the
+smutty huts, to kill time and divert painful thoughts, I
+was hailed from within by the chief, &ldquo;Arke, Boney!&rdquo;
+On entering, he appeared to be conversing, in low, gurgling
+sounds, with his lately-married daughter, who was running
+her hands through the shaggy hair of her young hope, as
+she talked. Something was plainly wrong in the youngster&rsquo;s
+top-knot, and some unpleasant task in relation thereto
+was as plainly about to be imposed upon me. The chief
+resolved my doubts, by ordering me to cut off a portion
+of the shag; I objected a want of the proper implements,
+but the mother silenced me by producing an old pair of
+scissors, in no condition to cut anything. Calling for a
+file, the rusty edges were brought into a tolerable state,
+and I approached the task. Such a sight! If the hair
+now would have obeyed a mesmeric pass, without the need
+of manual contact,&mdash;if the job could be performed with
+closed eyes, and insensible nostrils, and absent mind!
+Faugh! I hurried through the penance, hiding disgust,
+and assuming the appearance of good will, and made good
+my escape into the fresh air. And so I must turn barber,
+and, in all likelihood, have the dirty heads of half the
+tribe put under my nose! What would come next?</p>
+
+<p>Our next move took us across the river Gallegos, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+shoal water, barely up to the horses&rsquo; knees. The current
+was rapid, and masses of floating ice were swept along with
+it. When half way across, my horse took fright, reared,
+and, in attempting a sudden turn, precipitated me into the
+water, and fell heavily upon me. The ducking and the
+bruise together were severe, and, among other disasters, the
+crystal of my watch was broken by the shock. This I
+had kept carefully secreted, as a last resort, to amuse the
+savages when other expedients should fail,&mdash;when memory
+and invention could yield no more tales, when promises
+should have become threadbare with repetition, and when
+pretensions of greatness at home should have lost their
+power by the every-day disclosure of present weakness and
+humiliation.</p>
+
+<p>We&mdash;that is to say, myself and the old horse&mdash;kicked
+and floundered a while in the cold water, till at last the
+creature succeeded in rising, and I followed his example.
+We waded ashore, dripping, amidst the uproarious laughter
+of the whole troop. Once more mounted on my Rosinante,
+we resumed our line of march. The chill from my cold
+bath so benumbed me that I had to dismount and lead the
+horse, to recover, by brisk walking, some portion of animal
+warmth. Our course was down the river towards the Atlantic.
+Being unsuccessful in the chase, we pitched our
+tents at night, supperless, and without prospect of breakfasting
+the next morning. A small fire was lighted, which
+I hugged as closely as possible, to thaw my stiffened
+limbs; and then, cold, wet and hungry, fagged to extremity,
+cast myself on the ground, to repose as I might. The next
+morning was stormy. It cleared up in the afternoon, and
+the Indians sallied out to find some food. My only refreshment<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+before their return was a little grease, which one of
+the squaws scooped out of an ostrich-skin with her dirty
+thumb and finger. It was so black that its pedigree&mdash;whether
+guanaco, ostrich or skunk, or a compound gathered
+at random from beast and bird&mdash;was a problem defying
+solution; but famine is not fastidious, and I swallowed
+greedily what, a few months before, I should hardly have
+thought fit to grease shoes with. The men came back with
+a few ostriches and skunks. The chief received as his portion
+one of the quadrupeds. The associations connected
+with its name, as related to one sense, were not adapted to
+prepossess the others in its favor; but I made shift to do
+justice rather to the Indian than to my habitual tastes.</p>
+
+<p>During the three days we remained here, the long-concealed
+watch was brought to light. The filth of the natives,
+the condition in which their huts and their persons
+were always suffered to remain, the swarms of vermin they
+housed, had imposed upon me extraordinary care to prevent
+the natural results upon my own person; but no amount of
+precaution was sufficient to avert them. The reader will
+excuse me from speaking more particularly on this head.
+Enough to say that I found myself intolerably tormented.
+The chief ordered an examination of the case, and sent for
+an Indian to deal with it according to their art. While
+divesting myself of my garments, one by one, for this purpose,
+the old fellow caught sight of the hidden treasure. I
+knew that it was useless to attempt any longer to retain it,
+and handed it over. He was vastly pleased with it. I
+wound it up, and put it to his ear. He was as delighted at
+the unexpected sound as a child with its first rattle. I
+explained its use in keeping the hours of the day, but he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+cared for nothing but the ticking. The breaking of the
+crystal was explained, and he was informed that another
+should be procured as soon as we reached &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo;&mdash;another
+inducement, I hoped, to speed our passage there.</p>
+
+<p>The inspection disclosed a state of the cuticle which
+would be thought dreadful in a civilized land. The chief,
+however, looked as calm as beseemed a surgical examiner,
+and in a good-natured guttural exchanged a few words with
+his assistant, who placed himself by my side, and fixing his
+eyes steadily upon me, begun swinging his hands and howling
+like a wild beast. The comparison was not far out of
+the way, for he gave a sudden spring, fastened his teeth on
+my neck, and commenced sucking the blood, growling all
+the while like a tiger! For a moment I thought my hour
+had come. I weaned the rascal as soon as possible, not
+knowing what his taste for blood might come to, if too freely
+indulged. It seemed like a refinement upon cannibalism,
+but was, in fact, as I soon ascertained, the regular treatment
+made and provided by Patagonian science for the
+relief of severe cutaneous affections.</p>
+
+<p>The chief, all this while, recurred with undiminished
+pleasure to the ticking of his new toy. When his curiosity
+had at length abated, he returned it to me. I wrapped it
+carefully in a rag, and enveloped it afterwards in a young
+colt&rsquo;s skin provided for its reception, when, by direction
+of its present august proprietor, it was suspended among
+other valuables from one of the stakes of the hut, near the
+spot where his highness customarily reposed. It was not,
+however, allowed long to remain quiet. I was ordered to
+take it down and hold it to the ears of all the visitors to the
+lodge. Forty times a day it had to come down for this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+purpose, till I got so tired of my showman&rsquo;s duty that I
+wished the watch in the bottom of the sea. The Indians,
+as they listened to its vibrations, would stand in every attitude
+of silent amazement, their eyes dilated, their countenances
+lighted up in every feature with delighted wonder,
+and then break out in a roar of hoarse laughter, the tone of
+which strangely contrasted with the infantile simplicity of
+their demeanor. The business was dreadfully annoying,
+and yet it was plain that a new and almost unbounded
+power affecting my destiny was hidden in that little machine.
+It had captivated the chief, and struck an awe over the
+tribe like the rod of an enchanter. Whether it boded good
+or evil, was another question.</p>
+
+<p>Our next move took us in a west-north-west direction,
+and in our progress we not only secured abundant game
+of the ordinary varieties, but encountered and killed a
+young lion,&mdash;to use the popular term,&mdash;the first living
+specimen I had seen in the country. I had seen their skins
+in possession of the Indians, and heard stories of their
+chase. This was a youthful creature, about the size of a
+well-grown calf of six weeks. I was riding side by side
+with the chief across a piece of low bushy land, when the
+dogs gave token that they scented something uncommon.
+We halted, and the chief cried out to the dogs, &ldquo;Chew!
+Chew!&rdquo; They were off in a jiffey, rushing hither and
+thither through the bushes, barking furiously, and soon
+drove the beast from his covert. Other Indians, a little distance
+off, ascertaining what was in the wind, made after the
+game with a reinforcement of dogs. The chase began in
+good earnest. Horses, riders and dogs, from all points of
+the compass, were scampering to the scene of action, hallooing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>
+barking, howling, enough to frighten any unsophisticated
+lion out of his senses. Some were running full tilt,
+to cut off his retreat; while the hunters, bareheaded, leaning
+forward in their saddles and urging their horses to their
+utmost speed, whirled the bolas about their heads and let
+fly with a vengeance, with no other effect than to arrest the
+furious animal, and cause him to turn in desperation on
+the dogs, and drive them back yelping with pain. Others
+of the pack, watching their opportunity, would spring upon
+his back and fasten their teeth in his flesh. He brushed
+them off with a single stroke of his paw, as if they had been
+flies, and was again in motion, halting occasionally to give
+fight to his nearest assailant. Now and then the bolas is
+hurled at him, but his lithe limbs, though sometimes entangled,
+are not fettered by it, and his prowess is hardly
+diminished. The Indians press around him; the battle
+waxes fiercer; his whole strength is taxed. &ldquo;Chew! Chew!&rdquo;
+roar the savages; the flagging dogs return fresh to the
+onslaught, and, after a hard and unequal contest, the animal
+is fairly overborne by numbers, and despatched by the
+blows of the Indians. I had kept in the vicinity, but yet
+at a respectful distance, and now rode up to view the slain,
+amidst the howlings of the wounded dogs and the boisterous
+laughter of the hunters. It was a beautiful animal, with
+soft, sleek, silvery fur, tipped with black; the head having
+a general resemblance to that of a cat, the eye large and
+full, and sparkling with ferocity.</p>
+
+<p>After the Indians had eyed their game sufficiently, and
+talked and laughed and grunted their satisfaction, and congratulated
+themselves generally on their victory, and severally
+on the part each had taken, the body was driven off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>
+on the back of a horse, and the hunters again spread themselves
+over the country. Some ostriches were soon started
+up. The chief drew out his bolas, put spurs to his horse,
+and darted away. His mantle fell from his shoulders: his
+long, straight black hair, so coarse that each particular hair
+stood independently on end, streamed in the wind; his hideously
+painted face and body loomed up with grotesque
+stateliness, and the deadly missile whirled frantically over
+his head. The whizzing weapon is suddenly hurled at his
+victim, the chief still sitting erect in his saddle to watch its
+effect. His horse suddenly stops,&mdash;he dismounts nimbly,
+seizes the entangled bird by the throat, and swings it violently
+around till its neck is broken. As I rode up he
+deposited the great bird on my horse, remounted, and rushed
+in pursuit of another. That was killed and also placed in
+my keeping, making me a kind of store-ship. Others pursue
+the guanaco with equal success, till they are satisfied
+with their booty. We ride up to a convenient thicket, a
+fire is lighted, a portion of the prey is cooked and eaten,
+the remnants of the feast and the residue of the game are
+duly packed up, and the whole troop is under march for the
+camp.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VI.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">The chief&rsquo;s oratory&mdash;A case of sickness novelly treated&mdash;The captive
+commissioned as physician to the chief&mdash;Dr. Bourne&rsquo;s first and last
+patient&mdash;Murder&mdash;Cannibalism&mdash;Another assassination, showing the
+perils of medical practice among savages&mdash;Sports of the
+children&mdash;Patagonian farriery&mdash;Slender success in the chase&mdash;A second struggle
+for life.</p>
+
+<p>The chief occasionally made a speech to his subjects from
+the door of his lodge, wherein he invariably inculcated the
+duty of hunting industriously to procure meat, and a due
+supply of grease, for their families. He never had an
+auditor in sight, for his faithful lieges considered the
+speech from the throne a decided bore, and, if one happened
+to be passing, he was sure to dodge into the nearest hut
+till the infliction was over; but the leathern lungs of the
+orator could not fail to make him audible in many of the
+wigwams. In length his performances more resembled the
+official addresses of our republican rulers than those of his
+royal cousins of Europe, seldom falling short of a full
+hour. In style, they came nearer the proclamations of a
+crier. He would proceed in a monotonous rumble to the
+end of a sentence, and then defy contradiction by repeating
+several times, &ldquo;Comole! comole! comole!&rdquo; after which he
+paused, as for a reply. No one having the audacity to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+take up his challenge, he would go on croaking the same
+things with tedious iteration. After listening very patiently
+to one of his harangues, I inwardly applauded the
+taste of his subjects in getting as far as possible out of the
+reach of his voice.</p>
+
+<p>One forenoon, as I was beginning to feel impatient to
+move,&mdash;for every movement seemed to fan the flickering
+hope that we would soon reach a place affording some
+avenue of escape, and this restlessness always made camp-life
+doubly dismal,&mdash;the chief informed me that we should
+decamp that day. Preparations had commenced, when one
+of his daughters came in with a child crying at a tempestuous
+rate. The version which she gave of his complaints
+arrested the marching orders. A messenger was
+forthwith despatched for one skilled in the healing art.
+The physician soon arrived, armed with two small packages
+rolled up in pieces of skin, about a foot long and three or
+four inches in diameter, which I took to be his medicine-chest.
+He walked gravely in, laid down the packages, and
+squatted beside the mother, who held the little patient in
+her arms. Whatever his ailment might have been, his
+lungs could not have been impaired, for he was roaring like
+a young buffalo. Not a word was spoken for some time,
+the doctor all the while looking him very steadily in the
+eye. Then came a sudden calm, importing that the little
+fellow experienced some relief, or, more probably, that he
+was exhausted. The doctor ordered an application,&mdash;not
+of hot water, according to the prescription of Sangrado,
+but of a mortar made of clay. The clay was brought, the
+anxious mother worked it over with her two hands, spitting
+upon it to give it the requisite moisture, and having reduced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+it to the consistency of thick paint, bedaubed the
+little fellow from head to foot, giving him a decidedly
+original appearance. He evidently took umbrage at this
+unction, and discoursed in his shrillest tones till he was
+fairly out of breath. The medicine-chests were opened,
+but, instead of medicinal herbs, disclosed only a bunch of
+ostrich&rsquo;s sinews and a rattle eight or ten inches long. The
+physician commenced fingering the strings, and muttering
+almost inaudibly. This lasted four or five minutes, at the
+expiration of which he seized his rattle, and clattered away
+furiously for a minute or two, and resumed his place by his
+patient, eying him intently as before. He then turned
+with an air of importance to the chief, who had been
+crouching cross-legged on his couch, leaning forward, with
+his arms tightly folded on his breast, and watching anxiously
+the progress of the treatment. The man of skill
+broke silence: &ldquo;I think he is better; don&rsquo;t you?&rdquo; The
+chief nodded, and grunted assent. The same appeal was
+made to the mother, and received a like response. Another
+plastering was ordered, another burst of melody followed
+the application, the mysterious strings were again fingered,
+duly followed by the rattle. The parent and grandparent
+once more assented to the leech that the child was better.
+The chief took out a piece of tobacco, and cut off enough
+for about two pipefuls, which was tendered and gratefully
+accepted as a professional fee. The strings were tied up
+and replaced in their proper receptacle, and the rattle was
+shaken with hearty good will, whether by way of finale to
+the cure, or as a note of gratitude for the fee, or of triumph
+for success, could not easily be guessed. But the practitioner
+had scarcely evacuated the lodge, before his patient<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+broke out more vociferously than ever; which I thought
+would somewhat shake the faith of his guardians in the
+treatment he had received. But no; their confidence in
+their medical adviser was not to be blown away by a
+breath, or even a tempest. They evidently regarded him
+as nearly infallible. His remedies were obviously aimed
+more at the imaginations of his spectators than at the body
+of his patient, but it was no concern of mine. Patients
+among us have to endure more disagreeable applications
+than wet clay. The noisy brat became quiet, to our great
+relief. He shortly appeared to be quite well, and continued
+to thrive for some time, as I had opportunity to
+witness.</p>
+
+<p>The tribe went ahead with alacrity, to make up for the
+loss of time this sickness occasioned. We moved off another
+day&rsquo;s journey towards nowhere in particular, and
+settled there at night. Then ensued another season of camp
+life, feasting and fasting, gambling and quarrelling, and
+venting superfluous wrath in an abundance of &ldquo;Cashuran
+cashaly&rsquo;s.&rdquo; The chief was slightly indisposed, and I
+amused him with a description of the manner in which our
+physicians count the pulse of their patients. He listened
+with considerable interest, and sat thoughtfully ruminating
+on the matter. He came to an unexpected and alarming
+conclusion; putting this and my story of the <i>opodeldoc</i> together,
+he made up his mind that I was a physician myself!
+I protested against this inference, fearing that no good
+would come of the responsibilities he was inclined to impose
+on me. But the disclaimer was useless,&mdash;he stuck to
+the opinion; and in no long time it was understood through
+all the tribe that I was a distinguished doctor.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now, it came to pass, at this critical turn of affairs, that
+a certain widow, of pretty ripe years for a Patagonian, was
+taken suddenly ill. Her husband had been murdered many
+years before by one of the tribe. She was possessed of
+several horses, and, in virtue of this wealth, held an aristocratic
+position in society. A messenger brought the tidings
+to the chief, who ordered me forthwith to set the watch,
+and go with him to her residence. I again assured him I
+knew nothing of sickness or medicine. He told me he knew
+better, and bade me come along without delay. There was
+no resisting his will, and I armed myself accordingly with
+the &ldquo;ticking machine,&rdquo; and followed my master on my first
+professional visit. On approaching the widow&rsquo;s lodge, our
+ears were greeted with a hideous clamor, which momentarily
+increased as we neared the spot. A great crowd of Indians,
+of both sexes, surrounded the wigwam, severally and
+collectively making the most villanous noise ever heard.
+The crowd was dense, both within and without, but gave
+way for the chief and the great foreign physician to enter.
+The first order I gave was to stop their singing, whereat
+there was a silence so blank that the fall of a pin would
+have been audible,&mdash;that is, if there had been a floor for it
+to fall upon. With what dignity I could command, I
+walked up to my patient. There she lay, crouched on a
+bit of horse&rsquo;s skin, so withered, shrivelled and contracted,
+that it seemed as if a bushel-basket might have covered
+her, bed and all. I knelt by her side, drew forth the
+watch, grasped her by the wrist, and felt for her pulse.
+But, to my surprise, I could not feel it. I fussed and
+fumbled a long time, and finally arrived at the mortifying
+conclusion that I was so ignorant as not to know the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+position of the artery! The patient was frightened at so
+unprecedented a proceeding; but I succeeded in quieting
+her fears, though not, alas! in counting her pulse. However,
+it occurred to me that it was all one whether I did
+or not; so, keeping up an imperturbable gravity becoming
+my office, I continued for some time to look wisely at the
+watch, holding her wrist in profound silence. When I
+judged that a due impression had been produced on the
+awe-stricken spectators, I ventured to prescribe, not a clay
+plaster, for the patient was dirty enough, in all conscience;
+nor yet any compound of drugs, for I had none to administer;
+and as to roots and herbs, I durst not inflict
+upon her stomach substances of unknown properties; but,
+after a little thought, I ordered some water heated blood-warm,
+and the patient to be washed, and thoroughly
+scrubbed, from head to foot. This, I thought, met the most
+obvious indications of her case, as I doubt not a whole
+college of physicians, upon a superficial view, would have
+unanimously agreed. There could not have been a doubt
+as to the novelty of the prescription; the respectable
+relict, it is safe to say, had never been washed so thoroughly
+from infancy to that hour. Minute directions
+were given for the bath, that the scrubbing should be particularly
+smart and thorough. She was furthermore put
+upon a strict diet, excluding <i>grease</i> and all such luxuries,
+and we slowly retired from the sick room.</p>
+
+<p>My solemnity was not affected,&mdash;far from it. Promotion
+from barber and showman to the dignity of physician to
+the chief, was too dangerous to be lightly considered. In
+fact, anxiety drove sleep from my eyes, and I fervently
+prayed for the recovery of the widow; fearing, from what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+I knew of the superstitions of the savages, that in case of
+her death I should be held responsible. In this particular
+case, as very soon appeared, I misjudged; but of the
+general principle I had startling confirmation.</p>
+
+<p>The widow was better,&mdash;my prescription worked to a
+charm,&mdash;but her days were shortened. Late one night,
+after we had all retired to rest, a ferocious-looking rascal
+came into the chief&rsquo;s lodge; he muttered a few words to
+the chief, who arose, and went with him to the front of the
+wigwam. They conversed in a low tone several minutes,
+and separated, apparently with mutual satisfaction. I
+sounded the chief cautiously in reference to the matter in
+hand. Calmly, and without reserve, as if it were a very
+ordinary transaction, he said that the savages wished to
+kill the widow, in order to possess themselves of her horses,
+which they wanted to eat. I asked no further questions,
+being fully satisfied that he connived at the dark deed,
+which was consummated without delay. Before this tragic
+result, I had taken pains to disabuse the mind of the chief
+as to my supposed medical skill, and was able to relieve
+myself of the dangerous and burdensome honor.</p>
+
+<p>Strange flesh was eaten by the Indians about this time;
+I was told it was <i>lion-meat</i>, but was not invited to partake
+of it. The same thing was observed several times; at
+times, too, when I was positive they had killed no wild
+animals without my knowledge, or which were not disposed
+of openly. The nature of my suspicions may be easily
+conjectured; yet I made no inquiries, in even the most
+casual manner, as to their disposition of their dead. It
+was painful to think of the atrocities, that were but too
+probably shrouded under the mystery they cast over these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+transactions. On one occasion, however, a young Indian,
+who could speak a few words of Spanish and English, told
+me that they had killed and eaten three men. Whether
+he meant to have me understand this as a singular case, or
+as a common action of the tribe, I do not know; I made
+no inquiries of him. In fact, the statement was volunteered
+by him; and so painful was the subject, that I left
+him abruptly, in the middle of a sentence.</p>
+
+<p>We again moved in a north-westerly direction, taking
+a goodly quantity of game on the route, and settled in a
+wretched, marshy spot. The wind was high, and made the
+tents quiver like a ship in a gale; a storm set in, beating
+through the roofs, drenching and chilling me through all
+the night. On the evening of the second day of our encampment
+here, an incident occurred which fearfully confirmed
+the wisdom of my decision to renounce all title to
+medical skill. As I was seated by the dying embers of a
+little fire, surrounded by our motley household, and tugging
+manfully at a bit of half-raw meat, which constituted
+my evening meal, while a large piece was in process of
+cooking over the fire, we were suddenly startled by a cry
+of distress, followed by the distinct alarm of <i>murder</i>. The
+chief drew back to the rear of his lodge, took down his
+cutlass, and ordered me back from the fire, which was at
+once extinguished by two of his squaws, while the other
+two ran to the door, and set up a loud, lamentable wailing.
+All the women throughout the camp were, in like manner,
+giving their voices to the air, and &ldquo;making night hideous;&rdquo;
+and not a male Indian ventured to show his head for an
+hour or more. It was to me an hour of fearful suspense,
+the agony of which I cannot describe. At last a man came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+and told the chief that a doctor had been murdered. He
+had visited a woman professionally, and treated her case
+with charms and spells, but his prescriptions effected no
+satisfactory result; and her husband went in a rage to his
+lodge, and stabbed him with repeated blows, to make the
+work of death more sure. It was a singular circumstance,
+that men capable of deliberate murder, and who had so
+recently, with the tacit or open sanction of the chief,
+strangled a woman for her horses, should have shown so
+much alarm at the cry of murder on this occasion. The
+victim was an enormously fat man, weighing, I should
+judge, nearly four hundred pounds. A horrible sight presented
+itself the next morning, on going out of our hut;
+the snow around the doctor&rsquo;s lodge was saturated with his
+blood. I drew back from the sickening spectacle, unable
+to look upon it with composure. Beyond their exhibition
+of stupid terror in the night, no notice was taken of the
+act; and about noon the camp broke up. We travelled
+till night, meeting with no success in the chase, and encamped
+on an extensive plain, near a good spring of
+water.</p>
+
+<p>It was an occasional diversion to watch the children at
+their sports, of which a favorite one was throwing ostriches&rsquo;
+feet, with the sinews of the legs attached. The
+toes are cut off, and a pair of the feet are tied together,
+with a piece of sinew about a yard long. The children
+begin to practise the sport as soon as they are able to
+walk, and will continue the amusement all day; one boy
+throwing them into the air, and others throwing and hitting
+them as they fly, therein serving an apprenticeship
+to the grand manly accomplishment of hurling the bolas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+Young Cohanaco, the chief&rsquo;s youngest son, appeared to
+excel all others; he was looked upon as a remarkably
+smart and very active lad; and, though he was six or
+eight years old, was not yet weaned! All the tribe fondled
+and caressed him; he would practise with the boys, often
+without any covering to his back, till excited and almost
+exhausted; then he would run into the lodge, take refreshment
+at his mother&rsquo;s breast, and speedily return to
+his sport.</p>
+
+<p>All this time <i>Holland</i> was not forgotten, but the chief
+and his lieges were continually reminded of the urgent
+reasons for taking me there without delay; the presents
+which could only be obtained there, the fearful consequences
+of suffering me to come to harm, the great ships
+with the big guns, &amp;c. &amp;c., that would assuredly avenge
+me upon the whole tribe,&mdash;with what effect, beyond allaying
+present irritations and discontents that threatened me,
+it was impossible to determine.</p>
+
+<p>A novel sample of farriery offered itself to my observation
+one day, while hunting with the chief; my old
+horse, on a sudden, began to hobble, and very nearly gave
+out. I watched him some time, and jolted on, suffering
+somewhat from his uneven movements, but could not discern
+the occasion of the difficulty. On dismounting and
+examining his feet, nothing serious was perceptible, except
+that the hoofs were worse for wear, and broomed up a
+little. I remounted, and gave the poor creature a smart
+drubbing, to overtake his owner, if possible, and consult
+him on the case, which was one wherein I was content to
+defer to his wiser judgment. Sufficient steam was raised
+to bring us abreast of the chief, who, on hearing what was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>
+the matter, put spurs to his horse, and told me to come on&mdash;&ldquo;Bueno
+caballo, se campo, campo.&rdquo; I tried to comply,
+but it was hard starting the beast, though I used up considerable
+wood to that end. The chief having got far in
+advance, and finding me desperately in arrears, hove to,
+and waited for me. I toiled on, and succeeded in working
+a passage to his position. He dismounted, inspected the
+horse&rsquo;s feet, and, directing me to wait his return, rode off.
+He soon re&auml;ppeared with a piece of guanaco-skin, which he
+tied securely about the hoof of the lame foot. I expressed
+some surprise at this method of shoeing horses; but he said,
+&ldquo;Buenos zapatos,&rdquo;&mdash;good shoes,&mdash;and the event confirmed
+his words. The lameness nearly disappeared, and we jogged
+on together without any further trouble.</p>
+
+<p>While at this camping-ground, the chief one morning
+arose in a towering passion at some words let fall by one
+of his wives, and exhibited another sample of the rigor of
+matrimonial discipline, very similar to that which graced
+the nuptials of his daughter. He gave her a tremendous
+beating, which seemed enough to kill her outright; but she
+took it very calmly, as a sort of necessary evil incident to
+the married state.</p>
+
+<p>Once more on the move, the squaws taking charge of the
+furniture and baggage, including the pappooses, and the
+men riding in advance as usual, to chase supplies for the
+larder. Game was scarce; we got a couple of ostriches and
+a skunk,&mdash;or a couple of skunks and an ostrich, I forget
+which, and it makes less difference to the reader than at the
+time it did to me. We cooked and lunched on the ground,
+and turned our faces homeward with the scanty remainder.
+The women were busy erecting the wigwams. The ground<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>
+was frozen, and a large iron bolt, doubtless from some
+wreck, served as a crowbar to dig holes for the stakes. The
+encampment was on a hill-side, near a low swamp, which
+furnished abundance of water, such as it was.</p>
+
+<p>We had scarcely settled down, and I was dreading the
+stagnant monotony of camp life, when dulness was dispelled
+in a most unwelcome manner. Knots of Indians
+could be seen in murmuring conversation, whose glances
+betrayed the bent of their passions. They were again getting
+impatient of my life, and caresses and flattery were of
+no avail to stem the rising tide. On the evening of the
+third day, I was summoned out of the lodge by the chief, and
+followed him in silence, with a trembling presentiment of
+evil. He led me to a spot where twenty or thirty leading
+spirits in the tribe sat ranged in a circle,&mdash;the fatal ring
+was once more set to ensnare me! Once I had escaped.
+Was it possible to effect a second escape? Everything
+said no. The chances seemed a hundred to one against it.
+What had I left unsaid, to tempt their cupidity, to excite
+alarm, to make them value my safety or dread the effects
+of harming me? I could think of nothing, and the dismal
+prospect benumbed every faculty of my soul. But, as I
+entered the ominous circle, an access of fresh strength, the
+courage of desperation, enabled me to bear up with energy
+against perplexity and fear; to resolve that I would meet
+them with a steadfast eye and an inflexible mind,&mdash;a force
+which, though springing out of weakness, should prove
+stronger than their utmost malice.</p>
+
+<p>Having seated myself near the chief, the consultation
+began and proceeded much as before, but with increased
+vehemence. Their demonstrations were alarming, but, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+my joy, the chief took the same view as in the former council.
+Would he be able to restrain their savage tempers?
+His power was great, but there was a limit to its effect, and
+I feared. In my turn I sought to enforce his views, by
+arraying all the motives invention could produce, and was
+able to perceive that they had some weight. Again the
+matter was canvassed around the ring. There was a hesitation,
+as if they felt suspicious and unsatisfied. Then they
+began to cross-examine me; my promises were not explicit
+enough. What did I mean to give them? The answer
+did not content them; they wanted more. More or less
+made no difference to me, and I gave them assurance of all
+the good things they craved, when we should arrive at <i>Holland</i>.
+Another talk followed, and brought them to a pretty
+unanimous conclusion, that they would get the presents first,
+and <i>decide my fate afterwards</i>;&mdash;a &ldquo;squeeze-your-orange-and-throw-it-away&rdquo;
+policy, in which these rascals seemed
+to be remarkable adepts.</p>
+
+<p>The natives had no idea that I could understand their
+talk, and I was not at all eager to display my acquisitions.
+In fact, though unable to speak their jargon, my ear had
+become pretty well trained to interpret it, while my scraps
+of half Spanish enabled me, without suspicion, to hear,
+mark and digest, much of their conversation. This was, in
+part, acquired in teaching some of them, the youth especially,
+to speak English and to count,&mdash;a pursuit in which
+I engaged partly for their benefit, and partly for my own.
+Besides aiding me in learning their language, it tended, so
+far as it diverted their attention, to keep mischief out of
+their heads, after the manner in which constant employment
+maintains order in a ship&rsquo;s crew. It added to my knowledge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>
+of their character and ways of thinking, so that, in
+dangerous emergencies, I was able to detect the first symptoms
+of evil. More than once it enabled me to elude or to
+nip in the bud dangerous conspiracies, which, if they had
+gone further, might have proved fatal to me. Circumspection
+made self-possession more easy. I will confess&mdash;though
+the narrative may have made confession needless&mdash;that
+I am naturally timid, and inclined to the better part of
+valor. Yet somehow&mdash;God helping me&mdash;I early learned
+to hide my constitutional timidity under a show of fearlessness,
+even in circumstances of great peril. More than once,
+when a savage drew his knife at me, have I looked him in
+the eye and disarmed him by a laugh; perhaps laying hold
+of the instrument of death, trying its edge and praising its
+qualities, till its owner was shamed into quiet. One piece
+of English that tickled the chief was the title of &ldquo;Old Boy,&rdquo;
+with which (from a conviction of its appropriateness) I
+early honored him, and which he appeared to relish as much
+as if I had called him &ldquo;His Majesty.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>The council, to my great relief, at length broke up, and I
+returned to my wretched shelter. The chief pointed to my
+bed, and bade me lie down. I complied, not to sleep, but
+to adore the Providence that had twice rescued me as from
+the very jaws of death, to reflect on the past and to speculate
+on the future. The excitement of the evening kept
+me wakeful, and the night wore away and the morning
+dawned, without sleep for a moment visiting my eyes.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A new torture&mdash;Bloody gossip&mdash;An explosion nearly fatal&mdash;Plea of
+insanity&mdash;Reconciliation&mdash;River Santa Cruz&mdash;Naval architecture&mdash;Original
+mode of ferrying&mdash;Accident&mdash;Ominous demonstrations thereupon&mdash;Perilous
+superstition&mdash;Plans of escape&mdash;The chief fighting his
+battles over again&mdash;Prospects brighten&mdash;A blind hint to naturalists.</p>
+
+<p>From this point we moved again in a north-westerly direction,
+finding game more plenty, and among other animals
+captured a species of fox, the first I had seen in the country.
+The camping-ground selected was a waste more desolate
+than had yet greeted my sight, even in Patagonia,&mdash;a
+low marsh, surrounded by sand-hills destitute of even the
+semblance or vestige of vegetation, past or present. The
+horses were let loose to solve the problem of existence as
+they could, while my landladies, with their canine assistants,
+served up a skunk and two ostrich-legs for supper.
+I thought myself fortunate at getting so ample a meal, having
+been on short allowance the preceding day.</p>
+
+<p>Here a new torture was inflicted. There had been abundance
+of voluble hatred against me, as I had too good
+reason to know, but it was around and behind me. Now,
+presuming, doubtless, on my ignorance of their language,
+they came to utter their bloodthirsty thoughts in my
+presence. At night, before retiring, the women began to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>
+talk against me, as usual; which never gave me much uneasiness,
+female opinion not having much force, I suspected,
+in affairs of state. Two of them had always appeared to
+bear me a mortal grudge, for what cause I could not conjecture,
+unless they thought I took up too much of his
+highness&rsquo; time, or exerted too much influence over him.
+But, on the present occasion, the conference was enlarged
+by the entrance of two or three visitors, whose only errand
+seemed to be to give the chief gratuitous advice touching
+the disposal of my person. Though perfectly comprehending
+the drift of their remarks, I looked as stupid as possible,
+and bent myself to caress and flatter the old fellow with
+more than common servility;&mdash;patting his breast, telling
+him what a big, good heart it contained, calling him my
+<i>compadre</i>, and myself his child, his <i>piconine</i>, his <i>muchacho</i>.
+So deep was my abasement! To talk of the goodness of a
+heart beating with cruelty and black with crime! To call
+that black, greasy, depraved monster my father, and myself
+his dutiful and affectionate son! It is humiliating to
+speak of this;&mdash;what, let the reader imagine, must it have
+been to feel it! The bruised reed was well-nigh broken.
+The courage that sustained me in sharp trials was frittered
+away piecemeal by incessant irritation. Hope, that kept
+me from fainting in the fatal ring, vanished with the occasion
+that invoked it, and a bitter, consuming despair
+hovered over me. Then came dark and distracting thoughts
+of home, now more distant than ever, to stab my heart,
+already faint and bleeding. Again was sleep driven from
+me, but the night passed, and the blessed light of day stole
+upon me, as with a benediction from heaven.</p>
+
+<p>I arose and rushed into the open air to warm myself by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>
+exercise, and when the fire was lighted comforted myself
+by its kindly heat, and recovered a measure of buoyancy.
+But the day was wearily spent, and night brought the merciless
+gossips once more into the lodge. The two squaws
+led off with words of the most fiendish hate, urging that I
+should be summarily despatched, and gloating over anticipated
+vengeance. Tempestuous thoughts and sleepless
+hours had weakened me in body and mind. The fall of
+successive drops of water will madden the stoutest brain,
+and the drop too much had now lighted on my head. I
+was frenzied; strong passions, hitherto held in check, overmastered
+me. I rose, threw my cap violently on the
+ground, stamped, gnashed my teeth, and cursed without
+restraint. I shook my fists at them, defied their malice,
+and raved for several minutes, reckless of consequences.
+What was life to me? They were killing me by inches.
+Let them do their worst, no matter how soon. The chief
+was at first startled at such an explosion, and sat looking
+fixedly upon me, with a dark and clouded brow. It was
+fortunate that my rage was too impetuous to be contained
+within the bounds of my Indian-Spanish vocabulary, but
+breathed itself in good strong Saxon, so that speech could
+not betray me. For no sooner had the internal pressure
+been measurably relieved, than a sudden consciousness of
+error&mdash;fatal error&mdash;smote me with a new dread. What
+had I done? Where were my wits, that I should thus toss
+away life to gratify impotent anger? If my chance of life
+was worth little to myself, was it worth nothing to others,
+that I should so trifle with it? With returning sanity of
+feeling came also a hint of the way to repair my wrong.
+Without waiting for any questions or wordy explanations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>
+I looked piteously at the chief, pointed to my head, and
+assured him it was disordered. I could not help my
+actions. I was sorry to make such an exhibition of myself,
+but it was all my poor head; and holding on to the poor
+head with one hand, I beat it reproachfully with the other,
+at the same time giving vent to some unearthly noises
+by way of corroboration. The old fellow looked rather
+dubiously at this change of scene, and asked if it was at
+them I shook my fists?&mdash;At them? No, no! they did not
+understand me. My heart was good, like his, but it was
+all my head, my poor naughty <i>cabeza</i>. Another thump on
+my cranium, and a second edition of the howl, proved sufficient.
+The plea of insanity was admitted; he expressed
+himself satisfied, and explained the incident to the amazed
+spectators. I drew a long breath with a returning sense
+of security, scarcely crediting the success of the artifice,
+and almost doubting whether the whole scene were not a
+dream. Real or unreal, it was over, and things were apparently
+on their former footing. Only my feminine foes
+would not be convinced, and added this crowning indiscretion
+to the list of my offences.</p>
+
+<p>We moved the next day in a northerly direction, and
+struck the river Santa Cruz, encamping about an eighth of
+a mile from its marshy banks, which, at this point, were
+bent in a broad, horse-shoe curve. We were surrounded,
+except on the river side, by high abrupt sand-banks, covered
+in part by underbrush of a stunted growth. The river was
+narrow, but deep and rapid. The Indians said it was the
+Santa Cruz, and that it led directly to &ldquo;Holland;&rdquo; but
+their lies about that same Dutch land had long since destroyed
+all faith in their words. That it was the Santa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>
+Cruz was probable, for I knew of no other river in these
+parts;&mdash;we had passed Corey Inlet and the Gallegos.
+The rest of the story I could only <i>try</i> to credit. I tried to
+urge them on, but they were not to be hurried. Some of
+them grumbled that I had no intention of giving them
+anything, but meant to slip from them the first opportunity.
+No wonder they thought so; they certainly had not laid
+me under very great obligations of gratitude. What on
+earth they wanted of me, unless to fat and eat me, was
+past conjecture; and my fare had not been of a nature to
+induce corpulence, so that this supposition was not trustworthy.
+They <i>said</i> they wanted me to help steal horses.
+They were bound for the Rio Negro, where they meant to
+steal seven hundred horses, of which number I was to get
+two. Certainly, I told them, it would be just the thing;
+and that was a most excellent reason for going to &ldquo;Holland.&rdquo;
+They would find me a rare thief; but, however it
+might be with them, <i>I</i> could not steal without a good stock
+of rum and tobacco. Was I insincere in all this? The
+reader may smile or may frown, but it was my purpose, if
+I failed to escape by way of &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; to humor them to
+the top of their bent; to ride, hunt, and even <i>steal</i> my way
+into their confidence;&mdash;any way to insure present safety,
+and keep an eye open for future opportunities.</p>
+
+<p>Three or four days were passed in suspense, which was
+at last terminated by taking our line of march down the
+river. We halted at noon, at a point where the banks
+sloped gently to the water&rsquo;s edge, on either side of the
+deep and narrow channel. Active preparations were here
+commenced for crossing. Part of the horses were driven
+across the river, whilst a portion of the tribe were occupied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>
+in building boats to ferry their families and goods across.
+Their boats are constructed after a simple fashion. A
+quantity of bushes are cut and dragged down to the margin
+of the water. They take four tent-stakes, and lay them so
+as to enclose an area eight feet square, lashing them firmly
+together at the four corners. Four Indians then raise the
+stakes from the ground, while others place the skin covering
+of the tent over the frame, allowing it to sag down
+three or four feet. The edges of the skin are brought over
+the stakes, and fastened on the inside. The bushes, made
+ready for the purpose, are placed within, tops downward,
+round the entire circumference, and secured to the stakes,
+till the boat is completely timbered up. The bushes keep
+the skin distended, and give to the vessel an oval shape, so
+that, though square at the top, it bears a striking resemblance
+to a large iron pot. Its length and its breadth of
+beam are of course equal. When completed, it is firmly
+lashed from stem to sternpost, and from side to side, with a
+lariat, or green hide rope, forty feet long, to keep it from
+spreading or racking. I had no hand in modelling this
+witch of the wave, but, like an apprentice, did as I was
+ordered in forwarding the structure, and, when nothing else
+was required, &ldquo;held on to the slack.&rdquo; It was at last completed,
+like the temple of Solomon, without the sound of
+axe or hammer; neither bolts, trenails nor caulking-iron,
+were required. We carried the barge down, and launched
+her in the stream. Two paddles were made by lashing two
+bladebones of the guanaco to sticks. Squaws, pappooses
+and baggage, were stowed away, till the boat was laden to
+the water&rsquo;s edge. I was directed to take passage with the
+family and household effects of the chief, and seated myself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>
+in the centre of the closely-packed craft. One end of a
+lariat was fastened to the boat, and the other tied to the
+tail of a horse. A savage mounted, with one rein attached
+to the wooden bit on the up-stream side. Two others took
+the oars, one on each side, and a squaw was stationed on
+the top-gallant forecastle for the purpose of singing, to
+insure good luck. All is ready. The old horse wades till
+the depth of water compels him to swim, and the boat is
+pushed off. The rider floats on the horse&rsquo;s back, kicking
+the water with his feet, holding the rein in one hand, and
+grasping the mane with the other. &ldquo;Chew! chew!&rdquo; he
+shouts, at the top of his voice. The black swan in the
+forecastle opens her capacious mouth and sings, &ldquo;Yek yah,
+youri miti! yek yah, youri miti!&rdquo; The two oarsmen dig
+away with might and main, while the younger fry swell the
+chorus with a &ldquo;Yah! yah! yah!&rdquo; The boat brings some
+heavy lurches to the windward, then yaws off to leeward;
+all owing to those lubberly oarsmen not meeting her with
+the helm in season. At length, after innumerable shiftings,
+we reached the opposite shore, and waded up on dry land.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:464px" src="images/illus120.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">FERRYING THE SANTA CRUZ.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>Several boats were constructed after the same unique
+model, and succeeded in crossing safely. Some of the
+horses, being better adapted to towing, were swam back to
+repeat the process, and our craft returned for a second
+freight. I watched the proceedings from the bank with
+intense interest, speculating on the probable consequences
+of an accident to any of the fleet. Such was their superstition,
+that, in the event of any ill befalling them, they
+would be quite likely to ascribe it to me, and serve me
+worse than Jonah was treated by his shipmates. The
+swiftness of the current, and the rudeness of their navigation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a><br /><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+made them so liable to mischief, that it seemed wise
+to prepare for it; and I at once began ingratiating myself
+with two of the worst fellows in the whole tribe, by professions
+of special good will and admiration for them, and
+confidential hints that they would share more liberally in
+the bounties of &ldquo;Holland&rdquo; than any of their fellows.
+Whilst thus engaged, with cautious glances across the
+river, to make sure that all was right, I perceived that
+there was quite a commotion among the people below;
+some were springing upon their horses,&mdash;others, ready
+mounted, were dashing furiously down the bank. On looking
+some distance below, a boat appeared to be in distress;
+the lariat that bound it together had snapped asunder, and
+the pressure within, and the strain of the horse without,
+had broken the front stake; the horse, relieved of his
+freight, pulled for the shore, and could neither be coaxed
+nor beaten into a return to duty. The horsemen on the
+banks dashed into the stream, and swam for the wreck,
+which contained, among other passengers, a young child.
+It was already filled with water, and was partially turned
+on her side. The surface of the river was dotted with
+dark forms, struggling with the mad current; one horseman
+after another each grasped a floating object, and
+made for the shore. The craft had drifted nearly half a
+mile, and nothing could be made out very distinctly. The
+squaws, on first perceiving the mischance, watched the
+wreck, and sung in a loud and plaintive strain, all the
+while casting unfriendly glances at me, and gradually approaching
+the place where I stood. My apprehensions
+were so far confirmed by this movement, that I told John
+(the name I gave one of my present particular friends),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>
+as he loved rum and tobacco, and expected to get any, not
+to leave me. John saw at a glance what was in the wind,
+and appreciated both the immediate danger and the ultimate
+reward of averting it; namely, the privilege of being
+gloriously drunk at my expense. He told me to go into
+his hut, and pointed me to the furthest corner; where,
+I being duly ensconced, he took his station, cutlass in hand,
+directly in front of me. The singing grew louder, and the
+voices more numerous about the door; the song was their
+regular powwow strain, which invariably preluded the
+killing of a horse. The Indians began to enter the lodge,
+and looked unutterable things in the direction where I
+was crouching; the wigwam was soon filled with them, and
+they were beginning to crowd towards me, when old John
+opened upon them, and told them they ought to be ashamed
+of themselves, to come in there in that manner; they did
+not even know what had happened,&mdash;they did not know
+whether any lives were lost. They were threatening on
+account of the death of a child, when, for aught they
+knew, the child was alive; they had better wait patiently,
+till they knew more about the matter, before they made
+any further uproar about it. In this strain he parleyed
+with them for some time, till they concluded to retire,
+uttering, as they went, the most horrible sounds. I felt
+less relief from their absence than if John had not, by implication,
+fully assented that <i>if</i> the brat was drowned, my
+life should answer for it. News soon came that the
+children were all safe, but that the boat was lost.</p>
+
+<p>An instant change ensued: the fire appeared to be
+quenched, but I feared it might break out at any moment
+afresh. Knowing their treachery, I kept a pretty suspicious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+watch on their movements; the chief soon came
+over the river, hurried, perhaps, in his movements by the
+accident, which he had witnessed from the opposite shore.
+After conferring with John, and giving him some instructions,
+and seeing that all was right, he re&euml;mbarked for the
+other shore, as he made it his special business to see that
+all were passed across in safety. The ferrying ceased as
+night came on; the chief was likely to be on the opposite
+side all night, as there was a good day&rsquo;s work yet to be
+done before the whole would be transported. I had overheard
+him giving special orders to keep a good look-out
+on me during the night. I felt, however, some uneasiness
+in his absence; he had been my most powerful protector,
+having twice, at least, saved me from imminent death.</p>
+
+<p>I now began to revolve in my mind the possibility of
+escape; the thought suggested itself that I might steal
+one of their boats, and drift down the stream. I was long
+since heartily tired of captivity; my situation, especially
+if I was to be held a hostage of Providence for the safe
+ferriage of the tribe, was desperate. But, on second
+thought, I did not know that this was certainly the Santa
+Cruz; if it was, I was furthermore ignorant of our distance
+from the sea. I knew of no white settlement on or
+near the river; none, I remembered, was laid down in
+the chart; if such a settlement existed, I might hope to
+reach it in a <i>boat</i>, but a voyage in such a craft as one of
+these would be as hazardous as that of the wise men of
+Gotham. If there was no such settlement, and &ldquo;Holland&rdquo;
+was Patagonian for Utopia, my only chance, short of drifting
+in my leathern sack out to sea, would be to land on
+some island, in case an island there were; and then what<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+should I live on, after landing? Berries I had never seen,
+except once or twice. Besides, my stolen craft could not
+be <i>paddled</i>,&mdash;the Indians had too good ears for that; I
+must follow the channel passively, through all its course,
+which was terribly crooked, while its rapidity increased
+the risk that the ungainly vehicle would be disabled. On
+the whole, it was so doubtful whether I could reach any
+particular place, or escape starvation after I got there,
+and so certain that failure would be death, the project
+seemed a forlorn hope. But then, again, it was not more
+forlorn than my present situation; so my poor mind
+vibrated between dangers,&mdash;the danger of remaining where
+I was,&mdash;the danger that I should escape only from the
+frying-pan into the fire. At last, as I <i>felt</i> the frying-pan,
+and only <i>feared</i> the fire, I concluded to try.</p>
+
+<p>Crawling as noiselessly as possible from my resting-place,
+I stole softly out, and made for the river. Alack!
+in calculating the chances, I had not once thought of four-footed
+enemies, and they were upon me before I was halfway
+to the shore,&mdash;a half-dozen dogs, barking loud enough
+to wake the whole encampment. I retreated incontinently
+to the lodge, and succeeded in getting quietly into my
+quarters again, not without some inward spasms. It was
+all for the best, no doubt, but it was not, just then, easy
+to think so, or <i>possible</i> to <i>feel</i> so; and, therefore, after a
+little time, I once more emerged from the lodge, and stole
+towards the river by a different track, hoping to elude
+those infernal dogs; but they, or some others, were on
+the alert, and came pell-mell upon my rear, barking more
+uproariously than before. I cursed the dogs, their masters,
+and my own folly, and gave up the attempt.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The ferrying recommenced the next morning; and before
+night the whole tribe were safely landed, with their
+effects, on the west side of the river, and their wigwams
+were all pitched. We were short of provisions; but this
+was a common case, and I was accustomed to it. I got an
+occasional morsel of grease, sufficient to keep starvation
+at bay; but illness, with bad and insufficient food, had
+greatly emaciated me, till I was a spectacle but few degrees
+above the living skeleton. But hope was still in
+the ascendant, and I had no idea of lying down to die till
+I was quite sure my time had come. We continued our
+wanderings the next day in a westerly direction, slaying
+every living creature that came within reach, from a
+skunk to a guanaco. This was a great disappointment, as
+I hoped we should go down the river, the direction in
+which they said &ldquo;Holland&rdquo; lay, and the only direction in
+which we were likely to strike a white settlement, if any
+existed on the Atlantic coast. But my remonstrances on
+this head were vain; they would go where they pleased,
+and I must go with them. Time dragged heavily; hours
+seemed days, and days weeks. But impatience is no
+virtue, and submission was imperative.</p>
+
+<p>The country hereabout was more broken and mountainous
+than any we had before traversed, with a more abundant
+growth of bushes, and some clumps of stunted trees
+here and there. As we proceeded, keeping still to the
+north-west, game was more plenty. We came to two
+ponds, or small lakes, one of not more than four acres in
+extent, the other considerably larger; the latter was
+shallow, at least near the shore, as some ostriches pursued<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+by the Indians ran into it, and their pursuers waded after,
+and succeeded in capturing them.</p>
+
+<p>At one time I observed a large scar in the calf of the
+chief&rsquo;s leg; the mark of a wound that must have been
+inflicted a long time before, as it was completely healed.
+Its depression was so great as to indicate a very severe
+cut, unless the old fellow had grown uncommonly fat since
+he received it. On inquiring the cause of it, he said it
+was from a wound inflicted by the Alanagros, a tribe inhabiting
+a country to the northward. The name he gave
+them signifies the blacks; and, from the manner in which
+he spoke of them, I inferred they were in some respects
+superior to the Patagonians. He said they were armed
+with cutlasses, and very long knives,&mdash;had tobacco, and
+plenty of horses; and I conjectured that they might have
+been a party of Spanish Americans, or one of the mixed
+races of Spanish origin. The fight, he said, arose on occasion
+of his tribe being on a horse-stealing expedition; they
+encamped a short distance off, and at night he made a
+descent on the Alanagros, killed some of them, and plundered
+their camp, carrying off many of their horses. The
+plundered tribe rallied, hotly pursued them, and recaptured
+a part of the booty; in the struggle wounding him
+with a cutlass, and, as I judged by appearances, cutting to
+the bone. He told the story with great spirit, slashing
+right and left, and grunting with extraordinary emphasis,
+as if to give an impression that good hard blows were
+given and taken: but I afterwards learned that it was
+a cowardly running fight, in which more sweat than blood
+was spilled.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing of importance occurred at our encampment near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+the lakes, except&mdash;what was a very noteworthy fact with
+me&mdash;such an abundance of ostrich that I was surfeited
+with the delicious fare, and was compelled by the chief to
+take a horse-rein emetic,&mdash;a more precise description of
+which the reader will have no difficulty in excusing. Had
+I not so completely disavowed the medical character, the
+chief might probably have allowed me to feel my own pulse,&mdash;if
+I could find it,&mdash;and to prescribe for myself; but the
+renunciation of professional honors brought me under the
+sanitary, as well as the political, jurisdiction of Parosilver.</p>
+
+<p>Our line of march was now in a northerly direction, soon
+deflecting to the eastward,&mdash;a movement that revived my
+sinking hopes. There seemed to be some prospect of striking
+the Atlantic coast, and coming within reach of civilized
+men. On our way we observed the tracks of some animals
+different from any I had met with. The chief said it was
+the <i>limerer</i>, with which lucid definition I was fain to be content;
+and, as no specimens were visible, the inquisitive
+naturalist must trust to his imagination for the rest.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER VIII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Retrograde march&mdash;A look-out ahead&mdash;New specimens of birds observed&mdash;To
+the right again&mdash;Large inducements to visit Holland&mdash;Apparent
+effect&mdash;Council&mdash;Other tribes of Indians&mdash;Story of a battle&mdash;Capture
+of wild horses&mdash;A royal speech worth hearing&mdash;Deputation
+to Holland&mdash;A start and a sudden halt&mdash;Journey commenced
+in earnest&mdash;Order of arrangements&mdash;First view of Holland&mdash;A
+weary day and night&mdash;A boat&mdash;A short parley&mdash;Swimming for life
+and liberty&mdash;A rescue&mdash;Farewell to Patagonia.</p>
+
+<p>My hopes were soon cast down, by a decided movement
+to the westward. Every step, I was convinced, lengthened
+the distance between me and the spot where my most earnest
+wishes centred; for, though I knew not of any settlements
+in this barren region, yet it was pretty certain that
+if there was one it must be sought in the line of the Santa
+Cruz. Of our latitude and longitude I could form no decisive
+judgment; but by the aid of the sun, of which occasional
+glimpses were caught, it was easy to take note of our
+direction, and I never retired to rest without taking landmarks,
+and satisfying myself as nearly as possible as to our
+whereabouts. At night there was a renewal of the discussions
+which had once so nearly turned my brain, and now at
+times came near verifying the plea which then saved me
+from destruction; but I was enabled to keep my feelings in
+more equal check. Disappointed and care-worn, I spent the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>
+night in commending myself to the mercy and good providence
+of God, praying that he would soften the heart of
+the savage and open a way of deliverance.</p>
+
+<p>Among other matters that excited my curiosity, I was
+anxious to know whether the Indians were expert swimmers.
+The only occasion on which I had seen them attempt it was
+at the time of the accident in crossing the river. Then two
+of them swam across, while the others floated on their
+horses&rsquo; backs, clinging to the mane. In answer to some
+questions dropped on the subject, the chief assured me that
+they were all expert swimmers, and could stretch off a long
+distance without resting, as they would show me, but that
+the coldness of the season made the experiment too unpleasant.
+Others of the tribe told the same story. The question
+was interesting, for obvious reasons. I had thought a
+time might come when it would be a very practical one.</p>
+
+<p>Some new specimens of birds made their appearance from
+time to time. One was a large black bird, resembling the
+turkey-buzzard, and subsisting on carrion. Another resembled
+the snow-birds of the north. I had also seen, near the
+sea-shore and by the lakes, several species of water-fowl,&mdash;one
+not unlike the wild goose, but the chief said they were
+not good for food.</p>
+
+<p>Our course, the next day, was northward, and the day following
+turned once more decidedly towards the east, whereat
+my hopes, varying with the compass, began to revive,
+though their buoyancy was tempered by experience of the
+uncertainty of Indian movements. Observing a spot covered
+with small trees, over which a great number of carrion
+birds hovered, we approached and found the carcass of a
+poor old guanaco, which had most likely paid the debt of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>
+nature without compulsion, and was stripped of its flesh by
+the birds. The chief broke some of the bones and eagerly
+sucked the marrow, and then picked up the remainder to
+add to the domestic stock of grease.</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the next day we brought up at a ravine,
+and found our camp by following it a short distance to a
+low flat. Proceeding to the eastward all the next day, we
+ascended a high eminence, from which the chief pointed in a
+south-westerly direction, and said that &ldquo;Holland&rdquo; lay <i>there</i>.
+I strained my eyes in the quarter indicated, without, however,
+making any discoveries, and with a strong disposition
+to think the Old Boy was hoaxing me. At dark we defiled
+down a steep declivity, and pitched our tents on the border
+of an extensive marsh covered with ice. Here I renewed
+my arguments for speeding our way to the promised land,
+dilating on the qualities of the promised rum in a style
+that would have astonished the advocates of the Maine
+liquor law, and impaired the confidence of those who had
+reasonably regarded me as a strict temperance man. Indeed,
+the antics and grimace with which I enforced the description,
+and illustrated the jovial effects of the creature,&mdash;the boasts
+of how I would teach them, by its aid, to throw the lasso,
+and perform most astonishing feats of horse-stealing and
+riding,&mdash;might have induced a suspicion that I knew more
+of it than mere observation or fancy could teach. But,
+however it may affect my reader, it produced unmistakable
+contentment and satisfaction to my Patagonian auditors;
+and that was what I aimed at. They looked and listened
+with watering mouths and hoarse laughter, giving token
+that the balmy description was appreciated to a most desirable
+degree. So evident was the impression that I spent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>
+the next day running about and giving line upon line to the
+most influential of the tribe, and succeeded, as I thought, in
+awakening a degree of enthusiasm to move towards the
+place where all these good things were to be got. In confirmation
+of this, I had the satisfaction of being called at
+night to attend a solemn council.</p>
+
+<p>It was a peaceful gathering,&mdash;they left their weapons
+behind,&mdash;but it contemplated only a sort of preliminary
+inquiry; the Patagonians know how to make their forms of
+procedure as tedious as any of our courts of law, summary
+as are many of their dealings. They examined and cross-examined
+very strictly, sifting my story with a severity
+which showed that they were in earnest, and at the same
+time a little suspicious. It was necessary to be on my
+guard at all points; and if they had been more docile learners
+of arithmetic, and able to stick on questions of number
+and quantity, it might have been a harder matter to satisfy
+them. But, on the whole, the old story was stuck to with
+a degree of consistency that produced the desired effect.
+Their confidence was perceptibly raised, and, after a good
+deal of talk, the council adjourned, every one more than
+ever disposed to visit &ldquo;Holland.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>While at this encampment, I observed on the ground
+about a dozen large oyster-shells, that appeared to have
+been recently opened. These were the first and only shells
+of the kind I saw in the country. I inquired if they were
+plenty in that vicinity. They said they were not; none of
+the tribe seemed to know where they came from, or anything
+about them. The chief said that he and his people did not
+relish oysters, but other Indians ate them. He did not like
+fish of any kind; no fish had grease enough for them;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>
+none of <i>his</i> Indians ate fish. This, and some similar incidents
+and conversations, convinced me that there were other
+Indian tribes in the vicinity. On one occasion I had
+noticed some places where a tribe, probably as numerous as
+our own, had encamped. Their fires appeared to have
+been very recently extinguished. Our tribe appeared to
+be considerably disturbed at these discoveries, and I
+judged that they were the traces of some enemies. It is
+certain that my captors had seen some desperate fights, of
+which they bore the marks on their persons. One of them
+had a deep scar on his breast, which he said was the mark
+of an arrow-shot received from the <i>&rdquo;Yamaschoner&rdquo;</i> Indians,
+a tribe that use the bow and arrow. His description suggested
+the probability that these were the Terra-del-Fuego
+Indians; but, on mentioning the conjecture at a later period
+to a person I met at the Chilian penal settlement, he informed
+me that those islanders invariably shoot <i>poisoned</i> arrows,
+which would not leave the victim much leisure to describe
+their effect. The scar in question was a deep one, in the
+region of the heart; and while I was examining it, the chief
+remarked that the arrow passed through his body and came
+out at his back. On examination, a distinct scar was visible
+on his back, so far corresponding in form and direction
+with the one in front, that it seemed likely to have been
+made by the same weapon. But how the arrow could have
+transfixed him through the chest, without wounding the
+vital organs, was not easily to be conjectured. The only
+explanation I could conceive of was, that the fellow&rsquo;s heart
+was so much harder than any material used for arrowheads,
+that the missile, instead of penetrating that important
+organ, had glanced aside and passed without mortal hurt.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>
+Enough had been developed to assure me that the tribe generally
+had hearts of no ordinary toughness, capable of serving
+them for all practical purposes wherein impenetrable
+stuff was in request; but the tale of this miraculous escape
+gave a new impression of obduracy, and entitled the hero to
+bear the palm among his fellows. I pretended to pity him
+for his former sufferings, and went so far as to volunteer&mdash;in
+case I should ever be permitted to enter the enemy&rsquo;s territory&mdash;to
+make mince-meat of some of them, and so to
+avenge his cruel injuries. This spontaneous sympathy and
+forwardness to take up his quarrel was exceedingly gratifying
+to the sufferer and to the chief, and drew from them a
+more particular narrative of the combat.</p>
+
+<p>They were out on a horse-stealing expedition,&mdash;the
+usual occasion, it seems, of Patagonian fights,&mdash;and made a
+swoop upon the camp of another tribe. The objects of this
+felonious invasion asserted title to the horses in their possession
+by certain tangible arguments, and induced a mortal
+combat. And now Old Boy waxed eloquent, and especially
+displayed that prime ingredient, &ldquo;action.&rdquo; His
+broad-sword exercise was really animated, and taught us
+&ldquo;how fields were won,&rdquo;&mdash;or would have done so, but that,
+while his right hand was slashing the air with his good
+steel, his left <i>would</i> hold the bridle-rein, and his heels
+involuntarily drive the spur;&mdash;in short, though it was a
+part on which he did not linger in the narration any more
+than in the act, there was some tall running on the occasion.
+So artlessly was the tale told, that while the hero
+was cutting and thrusting and grunting, to make due impression
+of the desperate bravery displayed in the encounter,
+his subordinate action clearly depicted a running and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>
+retreating fight, and convinced me that they got a sound
+drubbing for their pains. He said he killed one Indian,
+with an air that would have done justice to the slaying of
+a regiment. Shocking to relate, there were found persons
+who slanderously reported to me that Old Boy&rsquo;s legs had
+the unhappy propensity of Pat O&rsquo;Flaherty&rsquo;s, whose heart
+was as brave as any man&rsquo;s, but his cowardly legs ran away
+with his body; and they scrupled not to affirm that in
+this same hard-fought battle he crawled into the bushes,
+and there secreted himself till the cessation of hostilities
+enabled him to rejoin his tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The reader has doubtless noticed that &ldquo;the tribe&rdquo; has
+been all along anonymous. The explanation comes rather
+late, but, in point of fact, I never could learn that they
+had any distinctive name; they never used any. Indeed
+proper names were very seldom heard. Even in conversation
+concerning each other, they managed to avoid &ldquo;naming
+names&rdquo; as strictly as so many honorable senators, though
+for no reason that I could discover. By signs and gestures,
+and other hints, they indicated the personal subject
+of remark, and seemed to suffer no inconvenience from
+what would be felt among us as a serious want.</p>
+
+<p>While out hunting one day with the chief, we ascended a
+slight eminence, commanding a view of an extensive plain.
+The chief suddenly stopped his horse, and looked steadily
+forward. I bent my eyes in the same direction, and saw
+two or three mounted Indians moving towards a common
+point. There was nothing unusual to be seen, but Old
+Boy seemed to discover something. I inquired what it
+was. He answered by pointing; and, on a second view, I
+observed a horse loose, which I took to be that of some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>
+Indian temporarily dismounted. But the chief said they
+were about to catch a wild horse, and forthwith dashed off
+at a furious rate, bidding me follow. We were rapidly
+nearing the spot, when the two in advance of us put their
+horses at top speed towards the lone horse that was standing
+beside a clump of bushes. It suddenly ran before its
+pursuers, followed by two colts from the thicket. The
+colts appeared to be one or two years old, and were doubtless
+following their dam. One Indian singled out the
+mare, and another the larger colt. The little one did not
+lag behind. The chief and myself followed at a pace which
+would have made a single misstep fatal to our necks; but
+fortunately our horses proved sure-footed. On we dashed,
+helter-skelter, in a direction to head off the pursuers, and
+to place ourselves nearest to the affrighted animals. The
+mare yet holds the lead, and fairly tears up the soil with
+her flashing hoofs. An Indian, in close pursuit, presently
+swings his lariat about his head; but she makes a curve in
+her course, and springs beyond the reach of his aim. Her
+pursuer once more gains on her; again the lariat swings
+through the air,&mdash;he lets go,&mdash;the noose catches her neck,&mdash;the
+hunter&rsquo;s horse turns suddenly off, and the rope,
+securely attached to the saddle, brings the poor captive
+headlong to the ground. The trained horse keeps a strain
+on the noose sufficient to prevent her from rising, while the
+hunter dismounts and secures his prize. The colts shared
+the same fate, and, with the mother, were subdued and
+made useful to the tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The scenes and reminiscences I have described did not
+prevent the matter of most absorbing interest to myself&mdash;the
+projected visit to &ldquo;Holland&rdquo;&mdash;from engaging due<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>
+attention. The chief came home from the council full of
+it. He was in royal good humor, and talked about it half
+the night; but several objections arose, which it was necessary
+for me to dispose of. These were met, apparently to
+his full satisfaction. One of the most serious was the fear
+that the white men would revenge upon him the murder of
+Captain Eaton. I assured him that so long as I was with
+him he had nothing to fear on that score; the people were
+all mine, and would do, or refrain from doing, whatever I
+should bid them. They would not dare to lift their hands
+against him contrary to my orders, or refuse to deliver
+what articles I chose to demand. Nothing, I found, would
+do, but the assertion of absolute supremacy over all white
+men whatever, the world around; less than this would not
+secure the confidence of these savages, and I regulated my
+speech by the necessities of the case. The chief inquired,
+half a dozen times over, what I would say to the white
+men, and I as often rehearsed an address for the occasion.
+At last his curiosity seemed abated, and we fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p>Early the next morning we were up and stirring, and
+the chief having adjusted his toilet with care, a slight
+breakfast was made ready. This over, his highness stood
+forth, and from the door of his lodge made an official
+address to the tribe, wherein he set out the advantages of a
+visit to &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; and suggested the most expedient
+style of making it. He advised that a few only of the
+tribe should be deputed, with himself, to accompany me, and
+receive the stores of rum, tobacco, bread, rice, tea, butter,
+beads, brass, copper, and so forth, that were to be forthcoming,
+as the expression of my gratitude for the distinguished
+consideration with which they had treated me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+Though royal speeches seldom excite any jealousy of plagiarism,
+and it may seem a little captious on my part to
+make such a charge, it is due to &ldquo;the truth of history&rdquo; to
+declare, that herein the great Parosilver did but repeat a
+suggestion which he did me the honor to receive with favor
+over-night. It was not deemed essential to the case to
+inform his highness of <i>all</i> the reasons that led me to wish
+for as small an escort as the nature of the business would
+admit. On the contrary, acting upon the profound maxim,
+that one <i>sufficient</i> reason is as good as a dozen, and better
+than that number of questionable ones, I merely advised,
+that, after the experience which Captain Eaton and others
+had had of Patagonian prowess, the sight of too many of
+his giants would frighten away the whites, and prevent all
+beneficial communication with them; while the presence of
+a small deputation would be a pledge of their pacific inclinations.
+The speech from the throne proved less <i>moving</i>
+than most of the chief&rsquo;s effusions: his lieges listened with
+great interest, and an earnest debate sprung up, at the
+conclusion of which it was decided that the chief, with four
+other Indians and their squaws, should be my body-guard,
+the rest of the tribe to follow after. Another old woman
+begged to go with us, which was agreed to. The horse I
+had been in the habit of riding was lame, and unfit for
+service; another was procured for me.</p>
+
+<p>Our simple preparations for departure were soon made,
+and as we were about to start they all began bringing their
+dirty children to me, and requesting that I would bring
+brass and beads for them all; which was gravely promised,
+much to their satisfaction. There remained the last act in
+the comedy for which I had been long rehearsing,&mdash;if, indeed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>
+it did not turn out a tragedy. The idea had early
+occurred to me, that if I had some object to which I
+appeared very much attached, it might prove to be for my
+advantage; the Indians might hold it, in my absence at
+any time, as a sort of surety for my return. A belle from
+among the beauties of the tribe would be effectual to that
+end; but, if no sentiments of virtue had restrained me from
+this expedient, the filth and unsightliness of them all were
+enough to insure continence. I chose, therefore, a little
+white dog for a pet,&mdash;a dirty, thievish little rascal;&mdash;but
+I fondled him in the style proper to a violent attachment.
+It is true that when I saw him licking the meat designed
+for our repast it was not easy to refrain from kicking his
+worthless brains out; but this was a trifle to other things I
+had to endure, and I made myself apparently so fond of
+him that the reality of the case was never suspected. Now
+and then I indemnified myself by giving him, when unobserved,
+a smart rapping for his misdeeds, though such
+chastisement made but a slight impression on the object of
+it. As we were about setting out, I was asked if I intended
+to take my dog. No, I told them, he would be
+better off there, and when I returned he should have some
+bread and other dainties to eat. The ruse more than answered
+its expected end, in lulling all suspicion of my
+sincerity.</p>
+
+<p>At last we were under way. The grand crisis to which
+all my diplomacy and the utmost license of fiction had
+tended was near at hand. A strong hope of deliverance
+braced my spirits, shaded, it is true, by a natural apprehension
+of possible failure, and of the consequences that
+might follow. With no great elation of spirits, but with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>
+stern, severe tension of all my mental energies, and a concentration
+of them into one focus of resolve, I waved a farewell,
+which I hoped might be everlasting, to the accursed
+gang of robbers who had tormented me so many tedious
+weeks. &ldquo;Good-by to Patagonia!&rdquo; I mentally ejaculated, and
+struck off with my escort; but had not gone more than an
+eighth of a mile, when the party wheeled about and ordered
+me to follow them back to the camp! I remonstrated, but
+it was of no use, and with a heavy heart I found myself
+once more in my dirty corner of a wigwam. The horses
+were turned adrift without a word of explanation, and the
+Indians sat down to a game of cards, with as much indifference
+to everything else as if the events of the past forty-eight
+hours had been a feverish dream. What could be the
+meaning of it? I questioned the chief. He merely replied
+that he would go by and by,&mdash;by and by; which, being
+interpreted, probably meant when he pleased, and that
+convenient season might never arrive! After I had teased
+him for a long time he took me to the door of the lodge, and,
+pointing to the river, said it was &ldquo;no good then;&rdquo; it would
+be &ldquo;good&rdquo; at night. What the state of the river, which
+was a shallow stream, a branch of the Santa Cruz, had to do
+with the matter, I could not divine, and was half inclined to
+vote myself fairly outwitted by the Old Boy.</p>
+
+<p>The day, a long one, at last wore off, and at night we once
+more set off. We crossed the frozen marsh, and forded the
+river, and, after going about two miles, stopped for repose.
+We took no camp equipage, and had to shelter ourselves for
+the night under the lee of a clump of bushes. We thrust
+our feet into the thicket, while our heads lodged out of
+doors. In this interesting attitude I was made to repeat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+my wearisome detail of promises, and to rehearse once more
+my contemplated speech to the white men; which done, we
+dropped asleep. Waking early the next morning, I found
+my head and shoulders covered with a fleecy mantle of snow.
+Would the fortune of my expedition fall as lightly on me?
+I shook it off, turned up my coat-collar, pulled my poor,
+more than half worn-out cap over my ears, and so, partially
+protected from the storm, rolled over, and again sunk into
+a slumber. The storm ceased at dawn of day. I rose and
+went in search of fuel, while my dark companions still slept
+profoundly. In an hour or two they roused themselves, and
+kindled a fire. Meat, from a store brought along for our
+provision on the way, was cooked, and served for breakfast.
+The scanty meal being despatched, our horses were driven
+in, lassoed, mounted, and we resumed our journey, in a
+south-easterly direction. At the end of about three miles
+another halt was called, a fire was built to warm by, and
+the horses were watered. The order of arrangements was
+discussed, and a fresh edition of the promises and the
+speech critically listened to. Changing our course a little
+to the right, we soon struck the Santa Cruz. The Indians
+pointed far down the stream, and said, &ldquo;There is Holland.&rdquo;
+I strained my eyes in the direction pointed out, and
+thought I could discern an island with several small huts
+upon it. A mile or two further on the north bank brought
+us to the mouth of the river, in prospect of the Atlantic.
+The island was directly opposite the mouth, and the lower
+part only appeared to be inhabited. We halted. The Indians
+pointed towards it, exclaiming, &ldquo;Esta Holland sarvey!
+muchas casas, mucho mucho hombres, tene mucho aquadiente,
+mucho travac, yeruen, arenar, arose!&rdquo;&mdash;This is Holland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+and has plenty of houses, and abundance of men,&mdash;plenty
+of rum, tobacco, bread, tea, flour and rice! I surveyed the
+spot in silence. This island was of considerable extent,
+lying two-thirds across the wide mouth of the river, its surface
+dotted over with little knolls or hillocks of earth.
+Could it be that these were dwellings inhabited by white
+men?</p>
+
+<p>Our horses&rsquo; heads were now turned from the shore,
+and we rode back about an eighth of a mile to a large clump
+of bushes, unsaddled our beasts, and waited some time for
+the rest of our company, who had fallen in the rear. They
+came at last, our horses were turned adrift, fire was
+lighted, and, as the day was far spent, supper was in order.
+Then ensued a repetition&mdash;a final one, I trusted&mdash;of the
+grand present to be levied on the Hollanders, and of the
+speech which was to draw them out. The Indians arranged
+that I was to hoist the English flag,&mdash;the colors of the
+unfortunate brig Avon, which they had brought along at
+my request,&mdash;and then to walk the shore to attract the
+attention of the islanders. On the approach of a boat, I was
+to be kept back from the beach, to prevent escape; for I
+found that they were not, after all, as well assured of my
+good faith as might have been desirable. They thought,
+moreover, that when the white men saw a prisoner with
+them, they would come ashore to parley, and offer presents
+to effect his release; in that case, there might be a chance,
+if the negotiation proved unsatisfactory, to take bonds of
+fate in the form of another captive or two. So, at least
+there was ground to suspect,&mdash;and some cause to fear that
+the rascals might prove too shrewd for all of us!</p>
+
+<p>After talking till a late hour, the Indians threw themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>
+upon the ground, stuck their feet into the bushes, and
+were soon fast asleep. I consulted the chief as to the propriety
+of modifying this arrangement, by placing our heads,
+rather than our feet, under cover, since both could not be
+accommodated. He declined any innovations, and told me
+to go to sleep. I stretched myself on the ground, but as to
+sleep, that was out of the question. I lay all night, thinking
+over all possible expedients for escape. We had no materials
+for a boat or raft of any description, and it was impossible
+to think of any plan that promised success; so that,
+after tossing, in body and mind, through the weary hours
+of night, I could only resolve to wait the course of events,
+and to take advantage of the first opportunity affording
+a reasonable hope of deliverance from this horrid captivity.
+Snow, sleet and rain, fell during the night; and I rose early,
+thoroughly chilled, every tooth chattering. A fire was
+kindled, and the last morsel of meat that remained to us
+was cooked and eaten. The weather continued squally till
+the middle of the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast the chief went with me to the shore, bearing
+the flag. On the beach I found a strip of thick board, to
+which I fastened the colors, and then planted it in the sand.
+The bushes around, which have a kind of oily leaf and readily
+ignite, were set on fire. I then walked the beach,&mdash;but
+no boat came. When it cleared up sufficiently to see, I
+observed little objects moving about on the island. The
+day wore away with fruitless attempts to attract their
+attention. With an aching heart I returned, at dark, to the
+camping-ground. On this island my hopes had so long
+centred,&mdash;if they were now to be disappointed, how could
+I endure it? The Indians began to talk of rejoining the tribe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>
+the following day. I opposed the motion with all the dissuasives
+at command, assuring them that, at sight of our
+flag, the islanders would surely come over in a boat, and
+that, if they would only wait a little, they could go over to
+the island and enjoy themselves to their hearts&rsquo; content;
+representing the absolute necessity that I should procure
+the rum, &amp;c., we had talked of, and how embarrassing
+it would be to go back to the tribe empty-handed, after
+all that had been said, to be ridiculed and reproached. It
+would never do. Our conversation was continued till quite
+late, when we ranged ourselves, hungry and weary, for
+another night. For hours I was unable to sleep. The
+uncertainties of my situation oppressed me, and I lay restless,
+with anxiety inexpressible, inconceivable by those whom
+Providence has preserved from similar straits. It was a
+season of deep, suppressed, silent misery, in which the heart
+found no relief but in mute supplication to Him who was
+alone able to deliver. Towards morning, exhausted with
+the intensity of emotion acting on an enfeebled body, I
+slept a little, and woke at early dawn, to a fresh consciousness
+of my critical position.</p>
+
+<p>The weather had been fair during the night, but there
+were now indications of another snow-storm. I waited long
+and impatiently for my companions to awake, and at last
+started off in quest of fuel; on returning with which, they
+bestirred themselves and started a fire, which warmed our
+half-benumbed limbs. There lay the little island, beautiful
+to eyes that longed, like mine, for a habitation of sympathizing
+men, about a mile and a half distant; it almost
+seemed to recede while I gazed, so low had my hopes sunken,
+under the pressure of disappointment and bitter uncertainty.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+A violent snow-storm soon setting in, it was hidden from
+view; everything seemed to be against me. It slackened, and
+partially cleared up,&mdash;then came another gust, filling the
+air, and shutting up the prospect. In this way it continued
+till past noon; at intervals, as the sky lighted up,
+I took a fire-brand, and set fire to the bushes on the beach,
+and then hoisted the flag again, walking wearily to and
+fro, till the storm ceased, and the sky became clear. The
+chief concealed himself in a clump of bushes, and sat
+watching, with cat-like vigilance, the movements of the
+islanders. After some time, he said a boat was coming; I
+scarcely durst look in the direction indicated, lest I should
+experience a fresh disappointment; but I did look, and
+saw, to my great joy, a boat launched, with four or five
+men on board, and pushing off the shore. On they came;
+the chief reported his discovery, and the rest of the Indians
+came to the beach, where I was still walking backward
+and forward. The boat approached, not directly off where
+I was, but an eighth of a mile, perhaps, to the windward,
+and there lay on her oars.</p>
+
+<table class="nobctr" style="clear: both;" summary="Illustration">
+<tr><td class="figcenter"><img style="width:700px; height:489px" src="images/illus146.jpg" alt="" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="caption">THE ESCAPE.</td></tr></table>
+
+<p>The Indians hereupon ordered me to return to the
+camping-ground; but, without heeding them, I set off at a
+full run towards the boat. They hotly pursued, I occasionally
+turning and telling them to come on,&mdash;I only
+wanted to see the boat. &ldquo;Stop! Stop!&rdquo; they bawled.
+&ldquo;Now, my legs,&rdquo; said I, &ldquo;if ever you want to serve me,
+this is the time.&rdquo; I had one advantage over my pursuers;
+my shoes, though much the worse for wear, protected
+my feet from the sharp stones, which cut theirs at
+every step; but, under all disadvantages, I found they
+made about equal speed with myself. As I gained a point
+opposite the boat, the Indians slackened their speed, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a><br /><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a><br /><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>
+looked uneasily at me; the man in the stern of the boat
+hailed me, inquiring what Indians these were, what number
+of them, and how I came among them. I replied in as
+few words as possible, and told him we wished to cross to
+the island. He shook his head; they were bad fellows, he
+said; he could not take me with the Indians. They began
+to pull away! I made signs of distress, and waved them
+to return, shouting to them through my hands. The boat
+was again backed within hailing distance. &ldquo;Will you
+look out for me, if I come by myself?&rdquo; &ldquo;Yes!&rdquo; was the
+prompt reply. The Indians, all this time, had kept within
+ten or fifteen feet of me, with their hands on their knives,
+and reiterating their commands to come back, at the same
+time edging towards me in a threatening manner. &ldquo;Yes,
+yes,&rdquo; I told them, &ldquo;in a moment,&rdquo; but I wanted to look at
+the boat,&mdash;taking care, however, to make good my distance
+from them. At the instant of hearing the welcome
+assurance that I should be cared for, I drew out the watch
+(which I had brought, according to promise, to have a new
+crystal inserted at Holland), and threw it into the bushes;
+the salt water would spoil it, and, if I <i>should</i> be retaken,
+the spoiling of that would be an aggravation which might
+prove fatal. At the same moment I gave a plunge headlong
+into the river; my clothes and shoes encumbered me,
+and the surf, agitated by a high wind, rolled in heavy
+seas upon the shore. The boat was forty or fifty yards
+off; and, as the wind did not blow square in shore, drifted,
+so as to increase the original distance, unless counteracted
+by the crew. Whether the boat was backed up towards
+me, I could not determine; my head was a great part of
+the time under water, my eyes blinded with the surf; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>
+most strenuous exertion was necessary to live in such a
+sea. As I approached the boat I could see several guns,
+pointed, apparently, at me. Perhaps we had misunderstood
+each other,&mdash;perhaps they viewed me as an enemy!
+In fact, they were aimed to keep the Indians from following
+me into the water, which they did not attempt. My
+strength was fast failing me; the man at the helm, perceiving
+it, stretched out a rifle at arm&rsquo;s length. The
+muzzle dropped into the water, and arrested my feeble
+vision. Summoning all my remaining energy, I grasped
+it, and was drawn towards the boat; a sense of relief shot
+through and revived me, but revived, also, such a dread
+lest the Indians should give chase, that I begged them to
+pull away,&mdash;I could hold on. The man reached down,
+and seized me by the collar, and ordered his men to ply
+their oars. They had made but a few strokes, when a
+simultaneous cry broke from their lips, &ldquo;Pull the dear
+man in! Pull the dear man in!&rdquo; They let fall their
+oars, laid hold of me, and, in their effort to drag me over
+the side of their whale-boat, I received some injury; I
+requested that they would let me help myself; and, working
+my body up sufficiently to get one knee over the gunwale,
+I gave a spring, with what strength was left me, and
+fell into the bottom of the boat. They kindly offered to
+strip me, and put on dry clothes; but I told them, if they
+would only work the boat further from the shore, I would
+take care of myself. They pulled away, while I crawled
+forward, divested myself of my coat, and put on one
+belonging to one of the crew. Conversation, which was
+attempted, was impossible; it was one of the coldest days
+of a Patagonian winter,&mdash;I was chilled through, and could
+only articulate, &ldquo;I ca-n&rsquo;t ta-lk now; I&rsquo;ll ta-lk by a-nd<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>
+by.&rdquo; Some liquor, bread and tobacco, which had been
+put on board for my ransom, on supposition that this was
+what the signal meant, was produced for my refreshment.
+The sea was heavy, with a strong head-wind; so that,
+though the men toiled vigorously, our progress was slow.
+I was soon comfortably warmed by the stimulants provided,
+and offered to lend a hand at the oar; but the offer
+was declined. The shouts and screams of the Indians,
+which had followed me into the water, and rung hideously
+in my ears while struggling for life in the surf, were kept
+up till distance made them inaudible. Whether they
+found the watch, whose mysterious tick at once awed and
+delighted them, and restored it to its place of state in the
+chief&rsquo;s lodge, or whether it still lies rusting in the sands
+by the sea-shore, is a problem unsolved.</p>
+
+<p>The boat at last grounded on the northern shore of the
+island; Mr. Hall, the gentleman who commanded the
+party, supported my tottering frame in landing; and, as
+we stepped upon the shore, welcomed me to their island.
+I grasped his hand, and stammered my thanks for this
+deliverance, and lifted a tearful eye to Heaven, in silent
+gratitude to God. I was then pointed to a cabin near by,
+where a comfortable fire was ready for me. &ldquo;Now,&rdquo; I
+heard Mr. Hall say, &ldquo;let us fire a salute of welcome to
+the stranger. Make ready! present! fire!&rdquo; Off went all
+their muskets, and a very cordial salute it appeared to be.
+He soon followed me, took me to his own dwelling, supplied
+me with dry clothing, and, above all, warmed me in
+the kindly glow of as generous a heart as ever beat in
+human bosom.</p>
+
+<p>I was captured by the savages on the 1st of May, and
+landed upon the island on the 7th of August.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER IX.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A civilized meal&mdash;A happy evening&mdash;A survey of the island&mdash;Preparation
+of guano&mdash;Preparations against invasion by the giants&mdash;A proposal
+to attack them&mdash;Loyalty and revenge&mdash;Killing time&mdash;Trouble
+in the settlement&mdash;A disagreeable situation&mdash;Arrival of vessels&mdash;Countrymen&mdash;A
+welcome by new friends.</p>
+
+<p>After getting sufficiently thawed out, I gave a synopsis
+of my adventures. The cook presently laid the table, and
+brought in supper. I ate heartily of bread and Irish pork,
+and drank tea raised in Brazil, called <i>matte</i>. It may not
+compare favorably with the produce of China, but to me it
+was a delicious beverage. I had been in captivity ninety-seven
+days, living as the reader has seen. Although I partook
+freely of supper,&mdash;too freely for one in my weak condition,&mdash;I
+rose from the meal with as keen an appetite as
+I brought to it. I again expressed to Mr. Hall, on learning
+his name, my gratitude at finding myself, through his
+timely assistance, among friends, though a stranger. He
+cordially sympathized with me, observing that he had been
+a prisoner among the Patagonians for one day only, but had
+seen enough in that short time to be convinced that a life
+of ninety-seven days with them must have been dreadful
+indeed.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After supper the boat was hauled up on the island. Pipes
+and tobacco were furnished, and I passed in the society of
+my deliverers one of the happiest evenings of my whole
+life. The change was so great, from the miserable and
+almost hopeless existence I had so long lived, that my joy
+exceeded all bounds. My heart overflowed with gratitude.
+Words could not then, and cannot now, convey any adequate
+impression of my feelings,&mdash;of the freedom and joy
+that animated me, on being snatched from perils, privations
+and enemies, and placed, as in a moment, in security, in
+plenty, and in the society of friends. It seemed like a
+dream, the change was so sudden and so total.</p>
+
+<p>The little house which for the present I called my home,
+and which, in fact, appeared to me at the time the pleasantest
+dwelling I had ever seen, was about twelve by fifteen
+feet upon the ground, built of boards and scantling, and
+lined with blue Kentucky jean. The fireplace was in the
+middle of one end, and a door opened at the opposite extremity.
+Two large closets were parted off, the one used
+as a cupboard, and the other for stores. Each side was
+lighted by a window containing four panes of seven-by-nine
+glass. Two comfortable settees, probably saved from some
+wreck, lined the sides of the room, and a good-sized hardwood
+table occupied the centre. It was floored overhead,
+and a trap-door opened into a sleeping apartment, fitted
+with two little berths,&mdash;one for Mr. Hall, and the other for
+Morrison, the Scotchman.</p>
+
+<p>As we have described the interior of our snug little cottage,
+we will bestow a word or two on its exterior and surroundings.
+Its cracks and joints, over the roof and walls,
+were covered with strips of tarred duck, and battened with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>
+narrow pieces of thin board. It was situated on a little
+mound of guano, perhaps four feet high, and was banked up
+to the windows with the same material. The height of the
+walls above the embankment was about seven feet, the embankment
+three feet more. A ship&rsquo;s bell was suspended on
+the north-east corner of the house, to notify the workmen
+of the hours of labor and of their meals. Sea Lion Island,
+as it is called,&mdash;the name &ldquo;Holland&rdquo; was probably corrupted
+by the Indians, from the word <i>island</i>, indistinctly
+pronounced in their hearing,&mdash;is about a mile and a quarter
+long from north to south, with an average width of an
+eighth of a mile, and is covered over its entire surface with
+low evergreen bushes. The settlement was made by an
+English company, for the purpose of collecting guano and
+preparing it for exportation, and was situated on the southern
+extremity.</p>
+
+<p>Our social evening was prolonged to a late hour, the moments
+sped by the stimulus of novel enjoyment. One of
+the settees was assigned for my couch, bed-clothes were
+provided, and a bag filled with ships&rsquo; colors and other articles
+served for a pillow. Before committing ourselves to
+repose, however, we discussed the probability of an invasion
+from the continent, and came to the conclusion that
+nothing was to be feared in that quarter before morning.
+Old Boy and his party, it was obvious, would have to
+return to the main body of the tribe for reinforcements and
+naval equipage before attempting pursuit, as they had no
+materials for the construction of boats or rafts, even if they
+would dare to tempt salt water in their leathern sacks. We
+accordingly dismissed the subject for the time, and Mr. Hall
+and the Scotchman, having cared for my comfort with anxious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>
+kindness, disappeared through the trap-door, leaving
+behind a friendly benediction. The little cottage was warm;
+my couch was the perfection of comfort, in contrast with
+that which had been my lot for ninety-seven wretched
+nights. Above all, for the first time in so many weeks, I
+could lie down without the fear of treachery and violence.
+I was secure from savages. This indeed was luxury. I
+slept soundly, vying in the profundity of slumber with
+the immortal seven, till late in the morning. Daylight
+at length had dispossessed the darkness of every part of the
+interior, and I awoke. It was no dream. I was indeed
+free. Rude but unmistakable evidences of civilization
+surrounded me. The adventures of the preceding day
+flashed vividly on my hitherto clouded mind,&mdash;the suspense,
+the struggle, the seasonable rescue, the rejoicing welcome,
+the spontaneous and subduing kindnesses,&mdash;and a
+warm gush of tender and grateful emotion from my inmost
+soul thrilled and suffused my whole being. While these
+emotions were subsiding from the fervor of their first impulse,
+and the mind was gliding away into a delicious and
+confused revery, wherein all manner of delight seemed to
+encircle me as with an atmosphere, in whose genial glow
+all past suffering existed only for the heightening of present
+enjoyment, the trap-door overhead was lifted, and my
+generous friends dropped down with a hearty salutation.
+I sprang from my couch, as good as new, and
+younger than ever. A cheerful coal-fire was soon burning
+in the grate, the room was swept, breakfast was brought in
+and despatched, the bell rang, and the men issued forth to
+their daily labors, while I went out to explore my new
+abode.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The island is low and flat, and at high water its surface
+is only eight or ten feet above the water-line; but the tide
+here rises and falls about the same height as at the eastern
+mouth of the Straits of Magellan,&mdash;nearly forty-two feet.
+Within twenty-five feet of our house was a small store-house
+and shed, a hog-sty, and a large stone oven. About
+the same distance further on, was a house for workmen,
+framed of timber, and roofed and laid up at the sides
+with bushes; and the sides were banked and the roof coated
+with earth, an old sail forming the topmost and outermost
+feature of the edifice,&mdash;except that on one extremity of the
+roof a headless barrel communicated with the fireplace,
+and did duty very respectably as chimney and ventilator.
+There were no windows; the men, and whatever portion of
+light and air sufficed them, found ingress and egress through
+a door in one end. It was most evidently made for use, not
+for show; but appeared to be very comfortable, and was
+neatly fitted up with berths and benches, a table and cooking
+apparatus. Its occupants were eight in number,&mdash;three
+Frenchmen, two Spaniards, an Englishman, a Welshman
+and an Irishman; so that, the island having adopted
+(for a season, at least) a representative of the &ldquo;universal
+Yankee nation,&rdquo; may be thought to have brought together
+samples from a pretty considerable part of mankind.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these human specimens, the settlement boasted
+of a dog, two mature porkers, and a litter of pigs. Near the
+house was a large heap of guano, prepared and ready for
+shipping to England and the United States. The men were
+at work hard by digging it up. It lies on the surface of
+the ground to a depth of from one to three feet; is dug up
+and conveyed in barrows to a cleared spot, where it lies in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>
+heaps, to be sifted. Stones, feathers, sticks, and other
+foreign substances, are carefully removed, the larger lumps
+are broken up, and the cleared guano is spread out in a
+thin layer; when thoroughly dried, it is covered up with
+planks. The business was carried on by Captain Matthew
+S. White, an Englishman, who had then been absent for
+several months at Montevideo, whither he had gone to
+procure vessels for conveying the guano already prepared,
+now amounting to some fifteen hundred tons, to market.
+The time he fixed for his return had expired a month
+before my advent upon the island, and Mr. Hall was
+beginning to feel very anxious for him, fearing lest some
+accident had befallen him, and anxious for himself and
+his company, also, as they had but a few months&rsquo; provisions;
+the island was rarely visited by vessels, and their
+only means of reaching any port, in case of extremity,
+were the ship&rsquo;s long-boat, and a whale-boat, both too small
+to undertake so long a voyage with any hope of safety.</p>
+
+<p>The possibility that my late hospitable friends on the
+main land might be led, by their high consideration for me,
+to visit &ldquo;Holland&rdquo; in a body, kept us busy, during the day,
+in making preparations to receive them with appropriate
+honors. Mr. Hall, who was left in charge of the settlement
+during the absence of the proprietor, observed that Captain
+White had often expressed apprehensions that the Indians
+would come upon the island, some time when he was away,
+and murder all hands. My slipping from them in the manner
+I had was not an event likely to dissuade them from the attempt,
+or weaken their motives for making it. There were
+two swivels in the camp, which we mounted upon wheelbarrows,
+to serve as flying artillery. I ground sharp an old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>
+whaling-harpoon, and fixed a handle to it; this was slung
+over my couch; and a large sheath-knife, for use in case we
+got to close quarters, reposed under my pillow. The Indians
+were prowling about the shore, probably expecting to see
+me re&auml;ppear among them, laden with the rum and tobacco
+they came after, and which they had earned by boarding
+and lodging me so long, and by the multiplied kindnesses
+with which they beguiled the months of my residence
+among them. It is likely they think, by this time, that I
+have been gone a long time for it.</p>
+
+<p>Before retiring for the night, we loaded our swivels to
+the muzzle, and fired them, to let our neighbors know that
+we had the wherewithal to give them a warm reception,
+should they see fit to make us a visit. We then reloaded
+the pieces, each with a dozen or more large bullets, placed
+them ready primed at the door, and covered the primings,
+to keep our powder dry. We had six or eight muskets
+ready loaded, enough to arm the entire garrison, with
+plenty of ammunition. The dog was tied to the doorhandle,
+to give notice of danger, and the door carefully
+secured. Just as we were about retiring, Bose gave a portentous
+bow wow! but, on going out, and taking a survey
+of the premises, the alarm proved to be false. All was
+quiet; and, with a momentary doubt of the sagacity and
+discretion of our sentinel, we lay down with a sense of
+security,&mdash;first taking the axe into the house, thinking
+that the cunning rogues might try to burn us out, should
+they find the efforts to dislodge us otherwise ineffectual.
+With this final precaution, our faithful sentinel chained
+to his post, like a Chinese soldier to his gun, we were soon
+sound asleep. The night passed quietly away, without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>
+any further alarm from our look-out, who was of the English
+pointer breed,&mdash;a sleepy, dough-faced fellow, better qualified
+to show the game than to occupy the responsible station
+to which he was promoted. He was a great coward, but that
+was not altogether against him; for, since the law of self-preservation
+applies to brutes as well as to men, fear would
+impel him to make some kind of demonstration on the approach
+of foes, if fidelity did not; and one kind of demonstration
+would be as useful to us as another, if only audible.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast I walked forth, and cast an anxious look
+through the glass to the northern shore of the main land,
+to see if the Indians still occupied their position, and
+whether they were building boats, or making any other
+preparations for invasion. There they were,&mdash;the patient
+creatures!&mdash;still posted in view of our quarters, the
+English flag flying on the beach. There were several dogs
+on the shore, and among them I recognized my own; I
+almost fancied I could hear him barking. As we brought
+no dogs with us, I concluded that they had gone back to
+the main body, and got a reinforcement, with materials for
+boat-building, and brought my dog for the especial gratification
+of his affectionate master; and now he was capering
+about on the shore, as if to call me back. Having sufficiently
+gratified my curiosity in this direction, I turned
+the glass seaward, in hope to view some approaching sail
+but the broad expanse was clear,&mdash;no vessel to be seen.
+On the river banks a few stray guanacos were cropping the
+scanty, rank grass, while others, with their young, were
+lying on the sunny slopes of the sand-hills. The quiet of
+these animals assured me that their inveterate enemies,
+the Indians, were not in the vicinity.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Tired, at length, of this sort of sight-seeing, I returned
+to the house, and, taking our guns, started with Mr. Hall
+on a stroll up the island, hoping to shoot some sea-fowl;
+but returned at noon, unsuccessful. The afternoon was
+spent in wandering aimlessly over the island, killing time.
+Walking about on the sea-shore, I picked up some clear,
+transparent stones, coated on the outside with a kind of
+crust; some of them are very hard, and, when broken, cut
+glass like a diamond. I wrote my name, and place of
+residence, on a window of our little cottage, with a fragment
+of one; they are mostly white, some of them of a
+vermilion, and others of a straw color; they are, I suppose,
+a variety of quartz. The shore is, in some places,
+covered with these pebbles to the depth of two or three
+feet, on an average of the size of a walnut; the hardest
+specimens were not abundant, but I collected about a
+hundred of them. I might have picked up many more, if
+they had possessed any special value.</p>
+
+<p>A further examination of the opposite shore disclosed
+Indians still prowling about, and I proposed to Mr. Hall
+to go over, with the men, and give them a sound drubbing.
+Revenge, I know, is said to dwell in little minds; if so,
+my abode in Patagonia must have dwarfed and contracted
+my own intellect for the time being, for I must confess to
+the consciousness of a desire to visit upon them some appropriate
+return for what they had inflicted upon me. Mr.
+Hall admitted the ill-desert of the Indians, and the entire
+rightfulness of a severe chastisement; but, not having the
+same stimulus to heat his blood that burned within me, he
+viewed the question with a more strict regard to prudence,
+and was altogether disinclined to undertake so hazardous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>
+an expedition; he dreaded going any nearer to the savages
+than was necessary. I would, myself, rather have
+been shot than fall into their hands a second time; but
+contended that the approach of the boat would bring them
+to the shore, and enable us to do them a mischief from the
+boat, without any necessity of landing among them. True,
+the Indians <i>might</i> succeed in getting upon the island some
+night, and effect our destruction; there certainly was
+nothing to prevent it, if they had the least ingenuity, and
+a moderate share of courage; but I knew them to be
+a gang of arrant cowards, and the reader may judge of
+their inventiveness by the preceding narrative. The subject
+was discussed till late in the evening, and the needful
+preparations and precautions were thoroughly talked over.
+When about to retire for the night, we went out and looked
+for our vigilant sentinel, whose due place, in right of his
+office, should have been at the door. Recreant to his trust,
+the rascal had deserted, to take up his night&rsquo;s lodging
+with the pigs. He was soon hustled out of his nest, and
+compelled to return to the door, there to be tied, as on the
+preceding night, to the handle. His choice of such mean
+company greatly lowered the animal in my estimation.
+While fixing him in his place, we perceived a light on the
+north shore; it appeared to be carried about from place to
+place, and was at some distance from the Indians&rsquo; wigwams.
+This had much the appearance of preparation for
+a nocturnal visit from the rascals,&mdash;a symptom of boat-building.
+From my observation of their habits while
+among them, I was convinced that something extraordinary
+was on foot; they were not much in the habit of
+moving about after dark, with or without lights, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>
+nothing but the pressure of an unaccustomed purpose could
+have made them so enterprising now. We uncovered the
+priming of our swivels, and greased their muzzles, to make
+them speak in a louder tone of warning and defiance to the
+enemy; they were discharged with a loud report, that
+made the island ring, and must have resounded with effect
+upon the hostile shore. The guns were reloaded, primed,
+and mounted upon their carriages at the door. The lights
+that had drawn forth this sonorous demonstration speedily
+disappeared; the Indians, it was presumed, had taken the
+hint, and abandoned or postponed their undertaking, whatever
+it might have been. I well knew their dread of big
+guns. When I attempted, at first, to persuade them to go
+with me to Port Famine, the chief reason assigned, besides
+the superior advantages of &ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; was, that there were
+big guns there, which were &ldquo;no good for Indians.&rdquo; A
+council of war came to the conclusion that there was
+nothing to be feared from them that night, and we thereupon
+retired.</p>
+
+<p>If our careful preparations seem to belie my expressed
+belief of their cowardice, it should be remembered that
+they had once fleshed their swords, if not their teeth, in
+the bodies of some white men, and had held, for a brief
+period, islanders in their custody; they were numerous,
+and might so far confide in their numbers and strength as
+to dare the attempt to wreak their disappointments fully
+upon our heads. Our caution was reasonable, and, at the
+time, was not excessive in degree. In the morning we
+made a careful survey of the premises, exploring all the
+sheds, and every other place where an enemy could have
+secreted himself, but made no discoveries. We walked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+over the island, and examined the opposite shore; but perceived
+nothing strange or alarming, except that the Indians
+still remained in their quarters, and that their numbers
+had greatly increased.</p>
+
+<p>The question of crossing over and driving them off was
+revived after breakfast, but, after considerable talk, no
+definite conclusion was reached, and I spent the day
+wandering over the island, gunning and picking up rare
+stones, occasionally surveying the coast through the glass.
+At night no lights appeared opposite; and having made
+our usual preparations against a nocturnal attack, we decided
+that if the black rascals did not speedily pick up
+their traps, and make themselves &ldquo;scarce,&rdquo; we would go
+over and hurry their movements. Mr. Hall found his
+loyalty stirring within him, in aid of revenge. He said it
+was too much to see that blood-stained British flag flying
+among such a miserable set of creatures, bringing freshly
+before his mind the forms of his slaughtered countrymen.
+This sentiment I was prompt to encore, and to enforce the
+propriety of an invasion to wrest the trophy from their
+hands. This was determined upon for the next day, unless
+they should sooner relieve us of their presence.</p>
+
+<p>The day dawned with a cloudy sky and a thick atmosphere,
+which made it impossible to see distinctly for any
+distance. Towards noon it cleared up, and we discovered
+that our troublesome neighbors were still there. We
+thereupon set about the necessary preparations for a movement,
+immediately after dinner. Arms and equipments
+were appointed, knives sharpened, guns put in order and
+stacked against the house;&mdash;the bell rang for dinner, and
+we ate with appetites sharpened by excitement. But, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>
+going out, and taking a final look through the glass before
+embarking, we observed the Indians catching their horses.
+They speedily mounted their beasts, and rode off. Our anticipated
+valor was soon cooled. They had slipped away
+without giving us a chance to do anything for revenge, for
+justice, or for the honor of the captive flag. On the whole,
+we were not sorry to abandon the expedition, though it
+seemed to me that our chances of security were not much
+improved by their departure. They would be very likely
+to lurk in the vicinity, and to return with full preparations
+for crossing and landing upon the island. Perhaps their
+movement was only a ruse to put us off our guard. Such
+thoughts crowded my mind; but there was no use in
+borrowing trouble, and I dismissed them.</p>
+
+<p>The men returned to their work, and I set myself to
+devise some employment. I had become tired of idleness,
+and offered to assist in the preparation of guano; but Mr.
+Hall interposed a decided veto. He wished me, he said, to
+make myself entirely contented, and as comfortable as
+possible. But the sort of life I was leading was very
+decidedly uncomfortable; and I entreated so earnestly to
+be allowed to make myself useful in some way, that he set
+me to make a row-lock for a boat, or a few thole-pins, or
+some other trivial things, that served to occupy attention
+and divert the mind. Then our cottage wanted a new
+floor, and some alterations were found necessary about the
+premises. When everything was done, and no more was
+suggested, I was desired to go a gunning, to vary the
+supplies for the table, or to take a basket and pick the tops
+of the bushes for pickling. The bushes, which are evergreen,
+have on their tops little clusters not unlike barberries,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>
+that make a very fine pickle. Several jars were
+filled, and furnished an excellent condiment for our
+suppers.</p>
+
+<p>Time passed on, and the non-arrival of Captain White
+made it drag slowly. I had thought to take passage in one
+of the guano vessels to Rio Janeiro, or some other South
+American port, from which it might be easy to obtain a
+passage for California. In default of other occupation, the
+large lighter, which lay up the creek, two-thirds the length
+of the island, was brought down opposite the house for
+repair, to be in readiness to load the ships when they
+should arrive. Their delay threatened us with famine,
+moreover, and it was beginning to be felt as a very serious
+matter. To add to our troubles, the scurvy broke out
+among the men, in consequence of living on salt provisions,
+without vegetables. They had been recommended, as a
+preventive, to make and eat freely of the pickle just described;
+but, either from want of faith in the virtue of the
+prescription, or because it was too much trouble, they had
+neglected to do so, and now found themselves in a poor
+plight.</p>
+
+<p>About the same time, as troubles<br /><br />
+
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">&ldquo;come not single spies,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">But in battalions,&rdquo;</span><br /><br />
+
+Mr. Hall was informed by the Welshman, who appeared
+very friendly, that Morrison, the Scotchman, was trying to
+prejudice the Frenchmen and Spaniards against him, and
+inciting the men to mutiny. The man had lived in the
+house and been treated like a gentleman, and this was all
+the return he made for the preference shown him. Sawney&rsquo;s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
+goods and chattels were forthwith thrown out of doors, and
+he was ordered to take his bed and board with the men.
+He took this descent in the world very much to heart, and
+when I talked with him on the impropriety of his conduct,
+appeared quite penitent. I strongly advised Mr. Hall to
+take him back into the house; for, though he had proved
+treacherous, it was better, after all, to have him under our
+immediate watch than with the men, as he might, in a
+short time, infect the whole company. After much coaxing,
+consent was given to his return, and he replaced his things
+in the house with much apparent gratitude. He was told
+that he must show himself an honest man, and labor to
+undo the mischief he had done, if he had any care of his
+personal safety; for should any trouble break out, and the
+sacrifice of life become necessary, his would be the first.
+He faithfully promised, and, I doubt not, exerted himself
+to allay discontents and prevent any outbreak. With the
+Spaniards he was successful; but the Frenchmen were more
+turbulent, and determined on a rupture. They complained
+that their allowance of food was insufficient, and threatened
+to break into the store-house and help themselves. Mr.
+Hall had served out their daily rations of meat, bread and
+flour, by weight, according to the directions of Captain
+White. The quantity I have forgotten, but remember Mr.
+Hall saying that it was the same as is allowed per man in
+the British navy. When the bell rang for work the next
+morning, the Welshman and Irishman alone went. The
+Spaniards said that they had the scurvy so badly they
+were unable to work; the Frenchmen marched up to the
+house, and peremptorily demanded more flour. Mr. Hall
+met them at the door; and, in reply, told them that they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>
+had the same food, in quality and quantity, with all the
+others, himself included, and that the allowance for the
+house proved to be more than we needed. None of the
+other men complained, and their complaints could not be
+listened to by him. They had all that Captain White
+allowed, and, if they were not satisfied, they could appeal to
+him when he returned, which would undoubtedly be very
+soon. Meanwhile he advised them &ldquo;to be quiet, and do
+their own business.&rdquo; They left in a very wrathful mood,
+not to their work, but to their quarters, and to idle away
+the rest of the day in sauntering up and down the island.
+They went on in this way for nearly a week, and at last
+consented to return to duty, under a promise that nothing
+should be deducted from their wages, which was given as a
+matter of prudence. It was not thought safe, in present
+circumstances, to strain authority over them. Nothing
+occurred to give serious uneasiness, though the men were so
+touchy and quarrelsome as to raise a slight tempest, now
+and then. On one occasion, Mr. Hall had been with three
+men up the creek, seven or eight miles, after fresh water,
+which could only be obtained at that distance and boated
+down to the settlement. While we were unlading the
+boat, a row was kicked up between one of the Frenchmen
+and the Welshman. Taffy, who was a thorough seaman,
+when adjusting the ropes to the casks, was assailed by one
+of the Frenchmen with some derogatory remark touching
+his seamanship, prompted by his mode of &ldquo;putting on the
+parbuckle.&rdquo; The critic attempted to take the rope into his
+own hands, by way of enforcing and exemplifying his view
+of the process; and the two were on the point of settling
+the question in a summary fashion, in a spirit which it
+required some effort to quell.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Indians still hovered in the vicinity of the further
+shore, as the smoke of their fires plainly indicated, and we
+were obliged to keep up our preparations for defence.
+There was nothing to prevent them from paying us a visit
+but their cowardice; and knowing their revengeful tempers,
+and the tenacity of their purposes,&mdash;the long-lived malice
+with which they were capable of pursuing any evil designs,&mdash;it
+seemed not unlikely that, smarting under the disappointment
+I had caused them, their resentment would prove
+strong enough to overcome their timidity. In this connection
+I had an unpleasant thought, now and then, of a hint
+given them while we were on our way to &ldquo;Holland.&rdquo;
+When about a mile distant from the shore, I picked up a bit
+of plank, and somewhat rashly, in the impetuosity of desire
+to contrive ways and means to get to the island, in case
+the islanders could not be attracted towards us, told the
+Indians that, if we could find two or three more of the same
+sort, I could bind them together and make a raft, on which
+I might be paddled over to &ldquo;Holland.&rdquo; I informed them,
+moreover, what was the most favorable time for crossing;
+namely, at the last of the tide, as the distance to be passed
+would be less, and there would be no difficulty in effecting
+a landing on the island. No additional materials presented
+themselves, and the scheme was given up; happily there
+was no need of it. But, less happily, it now occurred to
+me that what I then spoke in my own behoof might be
+turned by the Indians to theirs, to our no small danger, in
+case a more earnest and vigorous search should disclose,
+along-shore, more abundant materials for extemporizing
+transport craft.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the men became so sorely afflicted with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+scurvy that we decided to land on the south shore and
+chase some of the guanaco for fresh provision. Two of the
+Frenchmen accompanied us. Just as we were getting off,
+their countryman who was left behind came running to us,
+with angry jabber and gesture, vociferating that one of
+them had his gun. He seized it and was taking it out of
+the boat, when the party dispossessed of it disputed his
+progress, and a regular French fight of kicking and fisticuffs
+ensued, which we had difficulty in subduing. At last we
+got off, but discovered only a lone guanaco in a hollow between
+the hills. We posted ourselves to surround him for
+a shot. When he came out I had a fine chance at him as he
+crossed the top of the hill, and made quite sure of him.
+Unluckily, the flint-lock missed fire, and, before it was possible
+to burn any powder, our expected prey escaped. We
+cruised about for several miles, and returned home tired
+and empty.</p>
+
+<p>The men continued their work, as usual, the next day;
+but a storm was brewing. On the following morning the
+Frenchmen marched up to the house, and demanded their
+wages. They were told by Mr. Hall that he had none of
+the proprietor&rsquo;s money, nor any authority to settle with
+them. Then they would work no longer. Very well, they
+were told, they might let work alone, but their wages and
+rations could not be meddled with on demand. So they
+indulged in another season of idleness and mischief. Their
+first revenge was taken on old &ldquo;John,&rdquo; the horse. On the
+second day of their mutiny the poor animal was seen to
+halt; a hamstring was cut. He was very fat, and was probably
+marked by them for food, in default of fresh provision.
+At all events, Mr. Hall ordered him, as he was useless, to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>
+so dealt with. The men&rsquo;s rations were served out, and the
+rest was laid up in the store-house for future use. &ldquo;Horse-beef&rdquo;
+has a strong and singular flavor. I had become
+accustomed to such diet among the Patagonians, though
+never privileged to partake of so fat a specimen as old John.</p>
+
+<p>Not knowing to what height the mutinous spirit of his men
+might carry them, Mr. Hall wrote a brief statement of his
+affairs, and an account of my arrival on the island, and enclosed
+them, together with what money and valuable papers
+he had, in a tin box, which he buried at night in a guano-heap.
+That would certainly be removed on Capt. White&rsquo;s
+arrival, or by some one else, if he never returned; so that
+our tale would not be lost, even though we should not survive
+to tell it. The desperate character of the men,&mdash;all but
+one or two of whom, as we had reason to believe, had left
+their country for their country&rsquo;s good,&mdash;and the recklessness
+of their behavior, made our situation rather ticklish. Our
+fear of the Indians, moreover, was not laid entirely to sleep,
+though all visible tokens of their neighborhood to us had disappeared.
+By passing up and crossing the river, they might
+approach us from the south shore, which was separated from
+the island by a channel not more than half as broad as that
+on the opposite side. The bank, to be sure, was steep and
+muddy, involving the risk that they would be hopelessly
+bemired in attempting to land; but this was a weak security
+against them, if they were resolute enough to make the
+effort. Nothing occurred for several days to break the
+monotony of life. No work was done; the men received
+their allowances twice a week, spending their time in wandering
+over the island. The large boat needed repairs, but
+they rendered no aid. We took advantage of high water,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>
+rove tackles, and, by the help of rollers, drew it up high
+and dry on the land. When it was finished,&mdash;through
+fear that the men might seize it and make off to some place
+northward, thus depriving us of our only means of escape,
+if our provisions should be exhausted before Capt. White&rsquo;s
+return,&mdash;it was turned over, and the sails and oars were
+secured, as far as possible, from depredation.</p>
+
+<p>Old John was devoured, to the partial relief of the company;
+but some were still badly affected with scurvy. Yet
+we were afraid to go any distance in search of fresh provisions,
+on account of the risk of finding Indians about. The
+carcass of a guanaco, just killed by the dogs, was picked up
+in time to afford a sensible alleviation of suffering, and to
+replenish our rapidly wasting stock of provisions. Indians
+without, discontent and mutiny within, and the possibility
+of famine, together, would have made the island anything
+but a paradise to one who had not so lately escaped the
+purgatorial pains of a Patagonian captivity. The first of
+these disagreeables, however, began to be less vividly felt.
+We got tired of sweeping the horizon with our glass in
+search of the smoke of their camp-fires, or other appearances
+suggesting their vicinity, and gradually relaxed our
+vigilance. Bose was released from his sentry duties, and
+suffered to exchange such unwilling service for the society
+of his friends the pigs. But we still took the axe into the
+house by night, and kept our guns loaded. The boat had
+to be launched once more, to go up the creek for water.
+When it was unladed, we got the aid of a Spaniard and
+Frenchman in drawing it on land, to prevent the rascals
+from stealing it, by telling them that it needed painting,
+which was true enough. The seine was next got out, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>
+see if some fish could not be had for the improvement of our
+diet; but we got what is vulgarly termed &ldquo;fisherman&rsquo;s
+luck,&rdquo; and spread the ineffectual net on the gravelly beach
+to dry. Grown desperate, at last, we decided that, Indians
+or no Indians, we <i>must</i> have fresh provisions, if any were
+to be had, and manned the whale-boat for an expedition to
+the continent. We landed on the south shore, and succeeded
+in discovering and bringing down a solitary guanaco. The
+game was dressed, and we returned to our home in triumph.
+The two following days were chiefly spent in hunting,
+unsuccessfully.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon of the second day, having nothing else
+to pass away the hours, I commenced repairing the lighter,
+but had not been long at work before Mr. Hall came down,
+with a smile. &ldquo;Look out to sea!&rdquo; he exclaimed; &ldquo;Captain
+White is coming.&rdquo; I looked as directed, and saw distinctly
+two sail approaching. A thrill of joy shot through me; I
+thought no more of work that day. An examination
+through the glass made them out to be a ship and a fore-and-aft
+schooner. Could it be any one else than Captain
+White? The island was not frequented by vessels except
+for guano; but it seemed very strange to see a schooner, as
+a vessel of that rig was not adapted to such a service. Mr.
+Hall began to think it might be some of General Rosas&rsquo;
+vessels despatched to drive away people engaged in taking
+guano on the Patagonian coast. It had been reported, some
+time before, that he designed doing so. He heard the rumor
+a few months previous at Montevideo; and also another,
+that the Chilian government claimed the country, and were
+determined to hold it.</p>
+
+<p>The little schooner led the way, considerably in advance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>
+of the ship. As the vessels approached nearer, they presented
+a decidedly Yankee look. We watched them with
+intense interest, as they passed the shoals, and came up
+with a favorable breeze, under a press of sail. Soon they
+entered the river&rsquo;s mouth. On passing the north point
+the schooner stood up, keeping the north shore, and cast
+anchor. It was evident they were not acquainted with the
+navigation, as there is a large shoal running from the
+upper end of the island nearly to the mouth of the river,
+and they had sailed within it. On discovering the error,
+she attempted to keep off, but, in so doing, struck the
+lower end of the shoal. Mr. Hall manned the boat, and
+boarded the schooner. She proved to be the Washington,
+tender to the ship Hudson, Captain Clift, of Mystic, Connecticut,&mdash;a
+whaling vessel, just from the Falkland Islands.
+Mr. Hall promised to go on board again during the following
+forenoon, and pilot the vessel into the channel.</p>
+
+<p>I went with him for this purpose; and, as it was calm,
+the anchor was hove aweigh, and, with the boat ahead, we
+towed the schooner across the shoal, which at low water is
+plainly to be seen, but now, at flood tide, had plenty of
+water. After getting into the right position, the anchor
+was dropped, and we spent the day on board very pleasantly.
+The weather held moderate till afternoon. The
+ship yet lay off the mouth of the harbor, and made slow
+progress upward. The schooner, the day before, being so
+far ahead, had only daylight and wind enough to get in;
+and the ship, finding she would be benighted, as the wind
+sank with the sun, hauled on and off during the night, and
+then lay with scarcely wind enough to fill the sails. A
+smart breeze, however, sprung up in the afternoon, and she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>
+came gallantly into port, only repeating the mistake made
+by the schooner between the channels; but got off at night
+with the tide, and, after some delay, anchored securely in
+sufficient depth of water. As she intended making some
+stay in port, she was subsequently taken further up to the
+proper anchorage, and was moored on the 5th of October,
+having come in on the 4th.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clift had been informed by the mate, who had
+been ashore, and by Mr. Hall, of my misfortunes and
+adventures among the Patagonians, and on the following
+day sent a message inviting me on board his vessel. He
+received me very cordially, and insisted that I should
+make his ship my home as long as it should suit my convenience
+to do so. I accepted his kind offer, first going on
+shore, and communicating it to my liberal benefactor, Mr.
+Hall. He at once assented that it would undoubtedly be
+pleasanter to be with my countrymen. I could not leave
+him, however, without endeavoring to express my earnest
+gratitude for my rescue from a captivity worse almost than
+death, and for the kindly sympathy and generous hospitality
+that he had exercised for two months. In my destitute
+condition I had nothing but thanks to give, and I fervently
+hoped he might never be in a situation to need the like
+kindness from others; but he was assured, that whenever
+or however it might be possible to show my gratitude in a
+more substantial manner, it would be my happiness to do
+so. He begged me to give myself no trouble on that score,
+insisted on my retaining the articles of clothing with which
+he had supplied me, hoped I would come often and see him
+while the vessels continued there, and I bade this noble
+specimen of the true-hearted Englishman a tearful good-by.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER X.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A Christian ship-master&mdash;Cruise for whales, and for a California-bound
+vessel&mdash;An outlandish craft&mdash;An American vessel&mdash;Passage secured
+for California&mdash;Tempestuous passage through the Straits of Magellan&mdash;Warlike
+demonstrations, with an inglorious issue&mdash;Chilian penal
+settlement&mdash;Pleasing reception&mdash;Extensive coal-mine&mdash;Sea-lions&mdash;Mutiny
+of the convicts, and awful fate of the governor and chaplain.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clift cordially welcomed me to his ship, and immediately
+tendered me whatever I might need for personal
+comfort. I declined availing myself of his generosity,
+assuring him that I could be comfortable with present supplies;
+but he insisted on replenishing my wardrobe, silencing
+all objections by the remark that I plainly needed the
+articles, and that it was a part of our duty on earth to
+give to the needy. Captain Clift was a Christian in precept
+and example. He had daily prayer on board his ship,
+and made his religion an inseparable part of himself;
+something more than a profession, that did not expend
+itself in words, but found expression in acts of kindness to
+all within his reach. He had on board a poor sick Irish
+lad, who was taken into the cabin, and nursed with all the
+care that circumstances admitted. Had poor Mike been
+his own son, he could not have done more for him. Such
+acts, incapable of being traced to any sordid or selfish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>
+motive, sprung spontaneously from his capacious heart,
+full to overflowing with the milk of human kindness. As
+the ship had been at the Falkland Islands for several
+months, where they lived exclusively upon fresh meat, it
+seemed impossible that there should be a case of scurvy on
+board; but the captain remarked that the Patagonian
+coast was the worst he ever visited in this respect.</p>
+
+<p>The crew, under direction of the mate, a brother of the
+captain, were busy in landing cattle, swine, empty casks
+and other articles, to make room on board for trying out
+whales, in case they captured any more, for which the
+schooner was getting ready to cruise up and down the
+coast. The mate went in the tender on her first trip out;
+but she returned, in three or four days, unsuccessful. A
+second cruise was undertaken, but in a week&rsquo;s absence only
+one whale was discovered, and this they failed to secure.
+A third and still longer trip was equally unsuccessful, and
+they returned not a little discouraged. During this time I
+had repeatedly exchanged visits with Mr. Hall, and felt quite
+comfortable in my new quarters; but suffered the misery of
+idleness, and of impatience at my detention, even among
+such generous and considerate friends. Partially to relieve
+the tedium of inactivity, in compliance with an urgent
+request for some useful employment, I was allowed to
+repair the ship&rsquo;s spanker. But I determined that, on the
+next cruise of the tender, I would take a berth, in the hope
+of falling in with some vessel bound around Cape Horn, or
+to Montevideo, Rio Janeiro, Pernambuco, or any other
+port from which it might be possible to secure a passage to
+California,&mdash;a land I was resolved at least to see, after
+having got so far on my way, though so inauspiciously.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The vessel was soon ready to sail. The evening before
+our departure Mr. Hall visited me, and also came in the
+morning, before we were off;&mdash;the whole-souled fellow!
+I shall always pray for his happiness. Captain Clift
+added to his other kindnesses by pressing upon me various
+articles of comfort for the voyage, with a nice clothes-bag
+to contain them all. I parted from them, heartily praying
+a continuance of God&rsquo;s blessing on them both; adding,
+however, that it was very likely they would see me turning
+up among them, like a bad penny, on the return of the
+schooner. In truth, my natural buoyancy had so far died
+out, that but faint hopes of a successful termination of the
+voyage, begun, so long before, under auspices apparently
+cheering, now encouraged me. We hove up the anchor,
+hoisted sail, and steered out of the harbor and down the
+coast, running off and standing in on the land, in hope to
+fall in with whales. On the fourth day out, we discovered
+a sail coming down the coast towards us. It proved to be
+an outlandish-looking craft, from her rig appearing to be a
+Portuguese schooner. We sailed towards her with a light
+breeze, lowered our boat, and went alongside the foreigner.
+She had on board a large crew of cut-throat looking fellows,
+loitering about. We were not asked on board, but remained
+in the boat talking with them through one of our
+men, a Portuguese. They said they were from some place,
+the name of which I have now quite forgotten, up the
+Straits of Gibraltar, and were bound through the Straits
+of Magellan to California. I suggested to Mr. Clift the
+propriety of getting on board, and going to Port Famine or
+to California. He said I could do as I pleased; but that,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
+for his own part, he would feel hardly willing to trust himself
+among them, in which opinion I concurred.</p>
+
+<p>Our Portuguese hand went on board, and talked with
+the captain of my adventures among the Indians, and of
+the occupation, &amp;c., of our schooner. He was directed to
+inquire for whales, and brought us answer that several had
+been seen along the coast, some distance to the northward.
+While this conversation was going on, a tall, hairy fellow
+came up from the cabin, encased in a dark-colored cloak
+having a red collar, and stripes of the same hue running
+about the edge; a hood, or cap, of divers gaudy colors,
+lay back on his shoulders, and another, gayly and profusely
+variegated in hue, was perched upon his head.
+Altogether he was a comical-looking piece of human nature.
+He took a look at our vessel through the glass. In answer
+to an inquiry through our interpreter, we learned that
+they had passed, the day before, an American schooner
+bound that way, which could not be far off. One of the
+sailors passed some liquor to us over the side of the vessel;
+it was sad stuff, and I could only out of compliment go
+through with the form of drinking. While this little
+courtesy was enacting, our Esau over-head was scanning
+the horizon with his glass, and at length exclaimed that
+he saw the vessel; we turned, and distinctly perceived a
+sail making towards us.</p>
+
+<p>We soon returned to the tender, and stood in for the
+shore, in order to cut off the approaching stranger; anxious
+to meet her, I went aloft to the mast-head, where the
+view was better, and kept the mate advised of her course.
+When near enough to be watched from the deck, I came
+down, as it was impossible she could escape us. Mr. Clift<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+offered to board her, and I accordingly picked up my
+things, ready for contingencies; the breeze was light, and
+the strange schooner approached slowly. We stood in till
+it was judged we were in her track, and then hove to, with
+the stars and stripes flying at the main gaff, as a signal
+that we wished to speak her. Presently the same beautiful
+flag was run up her main peak; on she came,&mdash;our
+boat was lowered, Mr. Clift jumped in with me, and we
+were rowed alongside, the schooner rounding to, and laying
+by for us to come on board. Captain Clift announced
+himself to the master of the schooner, who came to the
+side to receive us, and introduced me. He courteously
+invited us on board, jocosely remarking that we had a
+good many captains for one vessel, took us into the cabin,
+and treated us with the greatest civility.</p>
+
+<p>The schooner proved to be the Hopewell, of New Orleans,
+Captain Morton, from Antigua, and bound to San
+Francisco, through the Straits of Magellan. There were
+two passengers aboard, an American gentleman, and a Portuguese,
+taken aboard at Bahia. At Captain Morton&rsquo;s
+request, I gave a sketch of my expedition and sojourn
+among the cannibals. &ldquo;You were bound to California
+when you embarked?&rdquo; he inquired, when I had concluded;
+&ldquo;I am bound there, and, if you wish to finish your voyage,
+you can go with me.&rdquo; My mind was relieved; I almost
+feared to ask a passage, but my wish had been anticipated,&mdash;my
+request generously granted before it was
+uttered. I gratefully accepted his offer; remarking that
+unless my vessel had arrived in safety, of which I had no
+assurance, I should find myself as destitute on landing as
+at that moment; but that he could leave me at Port<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>
+Famine, if I became troublesome. The &ldquo;John Allyne&rdquo; I
+supposed to have been lost soon after my capture; I had
+heard nothing of her since. He desired me to give myself
+no trouble in that matter on <i>his</i> account, and exerted himself
+to entertain us. As we were opposite the river Gallegos,
+and could easily run down to Cape Virgin during
+the night, Captain Morton felt in no hurry; and the
+whaling schooner was very well posted for observation on
+the coast, so that our men were well contented, and we
+had a very pleasant social interview of two or three hours.
+Finally, after partaking of some refreshments, I bade adieu
+to my excellent friend Mr. Clift, and the two vessels
+parted, to pursue their different courses.</p>
+
+<p>During the night, we worked our way down to the
+straits. I sat up quite late with the captain; and, when
+at length I retired to my state-room, fell soundly asleep.
+The next morning we were nearly opposite Cape Virgin,
+the north point of the entrance to the straits. We were
+rather wide off the cape; the wind was ahead, and a good
+strong breeze; we beat in at last, and anchored under
+Point Dungeness. The Portuguese schooner was in the
+offing; she worked up before night, and anchored a little
+to the windward of us. We lay at anchor through the
+night; the next morning we both got under way, with a
+light breeze, which lasted, however, but a little while,
+when the wind came round ahead. As we were passing
+Point Dungeness,&mdash;it was not fairly daylight, and I had
+not yet risen,&mdash;Mr. F., one of the passengers, cried out
+that the shore opposite was lined with Indians. I hurried
+on deck, to get a peep at them; upon looking, there appeared
+a great school of seals on the beach; they seemed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>
+to be standing up, and walking on their hind feet, so as
+to have, in the dusk, very much the appearance of Indians.
+With some difficulty we worked up to near the point
+where the John Allyne lay when I made my unlucky visit
+on shore, and came to anchor; so that I was brought back
+again almost to the starting-point of this &ldquo;eventful history,&rdquo;&mdash;a
+revolution suggestive of many reflections.</p>
+
+<p>The next day there came a heavy gale; the Portuguese
+schooner had anchored on the preceding night, in the bight
+of Possession Bay, further down. We lay heavily pitching
+at our anchors till afternoon, when Captain Morton
+determined to get his anchors, if possible, and run down to
+where the foreign schooner lay, thinking it might prove a
+safe anchorage. After much trouble in raising the anchors,
+we ran back, keeping the lead going, and running at a
+furious rate, under bare poles, excepting the head of the
+jib. The whole bay was a sheet of surf and foam. I began
+to think we had not much bettered our condition by removing.
+We anchored abreast of our Portuguese friend,
+but still dragged the anchors. We finally brought up by
+securing some iron castings we had on board to the kedge;
+the chain-cable was reeved through them,&mdash;they were let
+down ten or fifteen feet from the anchor. The small kedge
+thus fixed, with the weight attached to the chain, ploughed
+to the bottom, instead of being lifted out by the strain on
+the cable, thereby performing the service of one many
+times its weight. Our little vessel rode out the gale,
+which was of short duration; as the sun went down the
+wind subsided. We had hoisted a small sail to the main-mast,
+in shape resembling a leg of mutton, to make the
+vessel ride head to the wind, instead of lying in the trough<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>
+of the sea. The tide, running at the time strongly against
+the wind, caused us to lie nearly broadside to the force of
+the gale; but this temporary sail, supplying the place of
+after-sail, caused the craft to lie more steadily. Just
+before sunset we got our anchors at the bow, and were
+under close-reefed sail, beating back to the place we left
+in the forenoon, near the first narrows. We arrived there
+in the evening, and again anchored; the next morning,
+with a light breeze from the eastward, we stood into the
+narrows, in company with the Portuguese schooner. Soon
+after we had passed through the narrows, the wind came
+ahead; we beat along, and anchored under Cape Gregory,
+a fine anchorage.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening we discovered something sitting upon
+a high, abrupt sand-cliff, on the bordering shore; we could
+perceive, by an occasional movement, that it was a living
+creature. The object was of considerable interest, and
+was closely inspected with the glass; at last it was pronounced
+to be an Indian. The shore was closely scanned
+in all directions, to ascertain whether there were more in
+the vicinity; none were in sight, and we concluded to pay
+the solitary a visit; but, as hundreds might be concealed
+in the neighborhood, we armed to the teeth. Old flint-lock
+muskets, rusty with long idleness, were dragged from their
+hiding-places, and treated to a dose of oil, to limber their
+aged joints; new flints were fitted to the locks, and everything
+put in good order. The guns were heavily charged
+with powder and shot; pistols and cutlasses, dirks and
+bowie-knives, were all in readiness, and the boat was alongside,
+manned by the sailors ready to receive us. Mr. F.,
+the first and second mates, and myself, pushed off for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>
+shore. We landed at some distance from the object of
+our visit, that we might have a better opportunity to
+survey the country around. Before the boat fairly felt
+the bottom, the second mate jumped into the water, and
+ran along the beach, until he could see that the supposed
+Indian was a large bird. He raised his gun, and fired;
+the bird came tumbling down the precipice, and, on running
+up, we found it to be a large condor. The Dutchman
+had broken his wing. We caught our prize and took it
+on board the vessel, and were heartily laughed at for our
+pains by the captain, who had been viewing the onslaught
+through the glass. Mr. F. was teased by him many days
+for the intrepidity of his charge on the poor bird, rushing
+to the attack with a drawn sword in one hand, and a cocked
+pistol in the other. We all felt a little crest-fallen, I
+must admit, after having made such formidable preparations
+for an Indian fight, to return with so inglorious a
+prize; but, as none of my former tormentors could reasonably
+be supposed to have strayed to this part of the
+country, and I had no animosities towards other tribes to
+be gratified, I felt, on the whole, very well satisfied with
+the result. We measured the bird; but, as I was not
+&ldquo;takin&rsquo; notes&rdquo; at the time, it is now impossible to give
+its dimensions; it was very large.</p>
+
+<p>The next day we commenced beating under a head-wind
+through the second narrows; but, when partially through,
+it commenced blowing so severely that we were compelled
+to return to our anchorage at Cape Gregory. The following
+day we double-reefed the sails, beat through the narrows,
+and anchored in Oazy Harbor. Here we went on
+shore, and discovered traces of Indians; the smoke of their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>
+fires was seen to the westward. We roamed about on
+shore for some hours, but found nothing to interest us; it
+was all exceeding bare and monotonous. The breeze continuing
+fresh ahead, we remained one day in the harbor,
+spending our leisure in shooting sea-fowls, which were very
+abundant. Once more we got under way, and anchored off
+the mouth of Pecket Harbor until daylight, then stood into
+Royal Road, and passed to the westward of Elizabeth Island
+into Catalina Bay.</p>
+
+<p>Before passing Sandy Point, we saw several horses, and a
+Chilian flag flying. We hauled in and came to anchor, as
+we wished to procure wood and water. A large gathering
+of Spaniards from the settlement came to the shore. Among
+them I noticed a little man, handsomely dressed, with a
+beautiful cloak, and a cap having a wide gilt band; he appeared
+to be about fifty years old. A young man, of perhaps
+thirty, of fine appearance, accompanied him. He was
+dressed in military costume, blue trousers with white side-stripe,
+blue coat with standing collar, and cloth cap with a
+gilt band. These important personages were no less than
+the governor and his highest officer. They were walking
+along in conversation, and came down to meet us as we
+landed, shaking hands, and asking us where we were from,
+whither bound, and if we stood in need of anything. Capt.
+Morton could understand the Spanish, when spoken, easier
+than he could speak it himself. I therefore acted as spokesman,
+and replied that we wanted wood and water. After
+learning the quantity needed, his excellency gave his men
+orders to cut and split the wood, and draw it to the shore; and
+said that if we would send our water-casks ashore, his men
+should fill them. In due time both orders were executed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>
+and we received a good supply of these necessary stores.
+We were then invited to the governor&rsquo;s house. His table
+was sumptuously spread, and we were entertained in the most
+handsome style. He was a kind, gentlemanly man, and
+refused to receive a penny for the supplies he furnished us,
+but accepted some presents from the captain. The young
+officer also treated us very politely, and hospitably entertained
+us in his house. Our vessel remained here about a
+week. Every day the governor sent us a large bucket of
+sweet milk, and sometimes fresh beef. The place was a
+Chilian penal settlement. He was about removing the colony
+from Port Famine here, on account of the superiority
+of the soil. The young soldier and the Catholic <i>padre</i> were
+his principal officers. A part of the colony yet remained
+at Port Famine.</p>
+
+<p>One day, while walking out with the governor to look at
+the settlement, he asked if we were acquainted with coal. I
+replied, pointing to Mr. F., that he had been an engineer on
+several steamboats, and ought to be able to judge of <i>carbon</i>,
+as they called it. He sent his men along the little brook to
+look for some. They soon returned with several small
+specimens, which Mr. F. pronounced good coal. The governor
+said that the little brook led up to a large coal-mine,
+six or seven miles back, and he requested us to go and look
+at it. The next day he renewed the proposal, offered us
+horses and a man to clear the way, and said the <i>padre</i> would
+accompany us. I hesitated a little, suggesting that we
+might fall in with Indians. But he said, and the priest concurred,
+that there was no danger on that score, and we consented
+to go. We accordingly went on shore the following
+morning, and found horses in readiness for us. Mr. F., the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>
+<i>padre</i> and myself, started off, accompanied by a Spaniard on
+foot, armed with an axe, to clear away the obstructions in
+our path. After leaving the settlement, we plunged into a
+thick wood, on low, marshy ground, and followed a blind
+trail, leading now over the trunk of a large tree, which our
+horses leaped with difficulty, now across a quagmire, which
+had to be filled with bushes to furnish a foothold, and again
+was obstructed by an overhanging tree, or pendent branch,
+which arrested our progress till it could be cut away. In
+this manner we worked a passage for about a mile, when we
+emerged into an upland region free from underbrush. By
+this time, the thought recurred that it was rather imprudent
+travelling unarmed in that miserable country, infested
+by savage men and wild beasts; but I was in for it, and
+jogged along with dogged resolution. The face of the country
+became more uneven as we proceeded, tall trees were
+numerous, and we caught an occasional glimpse of snow on
+the hills. We soon reached a height at which there was
+abundance of snow. Our guide strode in advance, his Spanish
+axe swung upon his shoulder, calmly whistling a tune
+to himself. As we were descending a steep place, my horse
+suddenly stopped, and bent his head and legs to the ground,&mdash;the
+saddle slipped over his head, and his rider instantly
+found himself about thirty feet below, his head and hands
+stuck fast in the snow, and his heels elevated high in air.
+A little smart exertion extricated me from my uncomfortable
+position. Our guide came to me, uttering maledictions
+on the stumbling beast. Clambering with me back to where
+the horse stood, he beat him soundly, and again girt the
+saddle so tightly that I almost feared it would sever his
+body. I remonstrated, but he replied that it was a bad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>
+horse, and was playing old tricks. At the bottom of the
+declivity I remounted; we travelled through the snow as
+far as we could ride, then left our horses and continued our
+way on foot. The snow was very deep, in places frozen
+hard enough to bear our weight. A walk of a mile or more
+brought us, with some fatigue, to the coal-mine. But
+there was such a depth of snow that we could see only here
+and there a projection of coal in the banks of the brook
+which runs down from the mountains to the settlement.</p>
+
+<p>The coal was pronounced by Mr. F. to be of good quality
+for steamboat use. Some pieces which we brought down
+with us burned very freely, and emitted great heat. Mr. F.
+thought it a great discovery, and had an inclination to
+apply to the Chilian government for permission to work the
+mine. The Buenos Ayrean government, also, I was informed,
+laid claim to this desolate country. Forest trees,
+of great size, both of hard and soft wood, appeared to be
+abundant; and numerous streams of water are convenient,
+which could readily supply water-power sufficient to manufacture
+almost any quantity of lumber. A canal might
+very easily be dug to the straits, or a railroad might be
+constructed, so as to take the coal, with little trouble, from
+the mine to the colony. The <i>padre</i> said that an English
+company, some time ago, started to explore this mine, but,
+on account of the great depth of snow, gave up the enterprise
+without inspection.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to the settlement before night, and went to
+the young officer&rsquo;s house, where we were bountifully supplied
+with refreshments, and had a very pleasant, sociable
+interview, into which the priest entered with due spirit, in
+respect both to the physical and mental refreshments. Returned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>
+to the vessel at dusk. The next morning we landed
+some goods, and traded with the people. The principal
+articles purchased were cougar-skins, guanaco-skins, and a
+few ostrich-skins, sewed together in the form of a cape, the
+long feathers being extracted, leaving a soft, downy surface.
+The governor asked permission, which the captain
+readily granted, for some of the women to visit the vessel
+and trade on board; and in the afternoon half a dozen or
+more of them visited us, viewed the vessel, purchased such
+articles as they wanted, and were then set on shore. We
+spent here a day or two more very agreeably, trading with
+the convicts and gunning in the vicinity of the settlement.
+We had a little sport in trying to capture some sea-lions
+that were gambolling around the vessel, but were unsuccessful.
+We saw the skin of one that had been captured by
+one of the convicts; it was black, covered with a thick coat
+of coarse hair, or rather bristles. In size they were about
+equal to the common bull-dog. They rise every now and
+then to the surface of the water, to blow, like a porpoise.
+We bade the governor, the young officer and the <i>padre</i>, an
+affectionate farewell. Their kindness and courtesy had
+made our visit so agreeable that we were almost sorry to
+leave them. Not long after our departure, we were shocked
+to learn that they had met with a sudden and cruel fate.
+The convicts mutinied, and rose upon the officers. The governor
+and the priest succeeded in reaching the opposite
+shore, where they remained three days without food. They
+decided to return to the settlement, and abide the consequences,
+whatever they might be. The convicts bound them
+hand and foot, roasted them alive, burned their bones, and
+danced over their ashes! We had parted from them expecting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>
+never again to see their faces, but had loved to
+think of them as still inhabiting that bleak shore, turning
+it, by the magic of their cheerful temper, into a pleasant
+garden, and warming it in the glow of their kindly hearts.
+Their end was in such fearful contrast to their lives, and
+did such violence to our remembrance of their virtues, that
+the tidings affected us with a sense of personal loss, and
+made that lonely spot at once among the happiest and the
+saddest of my experience.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XI.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">Port Famine&mdash;St. Nicholas&rsquo; Bay, and its inscriptions&mdash;Politeness of the
+Indians declined&mdash;Difficulty of navigating the straits&mdash;A post-bag in
+a bottle&mdash;An English steamer, and its humane errand&mdash;Exertions of
+the British government to rescue prisoners in Patagonia&mdash;American
+schooner&mdash;Celebration of our safe passage through the straits&mdash;Juan
+Fernandez&mdash;News from home&mdash;A chapter of accidents&mdash;A trip to
+Lima&mdash;Almost an adventure&mdash;Arrival at San Francisco&mdash;Journey to
+the mines&mdash;A happy meeting.</p>
+
+<p>Our next stopping-place was Port Famine. We were
+visited, the first evening after we anchored, by the acting
+governor of the colony and their Irish doctor. The captain
+and myself went on shore the next day, and made a very
+agreeable visit to the officers, who treated us with much
+politeness. We spent two or three days here. We next
+cast anchor in Saint Nicholas&rsquo; Bay, a beautiful harbor.
+Going on shore, we observed the names of a number of
+vessels that had preceded us through the straits carved
+upon trees, with the dates of the several inscriptions; we
+added our own to the catalogue. There were some deserted
+bush-huts, probably of Terra-del-Fuegans, who frequently
+cross over the straits in their canoes, when fishing.
+A small, shallow stream, of much beauty, flows into the
+harbor; we rowed up it for some distance, gunning on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+banks. From this point, several ineffectual attempts were
+made to advance; but we were driven back as soon as we
+cleared Cape Froward, and obliged to retreat to our anchorage.
+Our vessel was flat, and could not hold on before
+a stiff breeze, but was inclined, like a crab, to move sideways.
+The wind having subsided, we made sail late in
+the afternoon, succeeded in doubling Cape Froward, and
+dropped anchor in Snug Bay; but, not being pleased with
+our position, weighed anchor, and continued our course to
+Fortescue Bay. In passing Cape Holland we saw a large
+company of Indians. They paraded on the shore with
+dingy flags flying, and waved skins in the air to invite our
+approach; but we kept on our way without noticing them;
+anchored, the next afternoon, in Port Gallant,&mdash;a fine
+harbor, sheltered from all winds. We observed the wreck
+of some large vessel, and conjectured that it might be that
+of a French bark of which we were told at Port Famine,
+which was run ashore and plundered by the Indians, who
+murdered the crew. We were advised to keep a sharp
+look-out for Indians here, which we failed not to do; but
+none made their appearance. As we beat up Crooked
+Beach, and passed the end of Carlos III. Islands, we discovered
+a white flag flying on the Terra-del-Fuegan shore.
+Thinking it might be the signal of some white people who
+had been shipwrecked, we stood over into the opposite
+channel, near enough to see Indians and their canoes on
+the beach, ready to pay us a visit. We hove about, having
+no desire to make their acquaintance, and anchored,
+towards night, in the beautiful Borga Bay, opposite.</p>
+
+<p>The most difficult and dangerous feature of navigation
+in the straits is the encountering of sudden and violent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>
+squalls, which strike the vessel without the least warning,
+and are frequently enough to wreck her in a few minutes
+even in the hands of the most experienced seamen. We
+found on shore inscriptions of California-bound vessels, as
+before. On a branch of a tree overhanging a little stream,
+we found a bottle suspended, containing papers. This was
+taken on board, and its contents examined. Three or four
+vessels, passing through the straits, had left memoranda of
+their experience,&mdash;such as snow-storms, loss of spars,
+anchors, chains, &amp;c. Captain Morton wrote a humorous
+account of our voyage, to deposit in this repository of curiosities;
+and I added a contribution, narrating my capture
+by the Indians and escape, with a request that, if it should
+fall into hands bound for the United States or England, it
+might be published. I little thought that it would bear to
+my anxious friends the first intelligence of my safety. I
+left letters at Sea-Lion Island, to be forwarded by the first
+opportunity, which failed to reach their destination; but
+this, bottled and suspended from a tree in the wilderness,
+first fell into the hands of an Indian, who sold it to some
+passing trader, by whom the soiled writing was deciphered,
+and kindly forwarded to Smith&rsquo;s News-room, in Boston,
+and was published in the &ldquo;Boston Atlas.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Our progress was slow, both wind and tide being against
+us; a strong current set constantly to the eastward. At
+Swallow Harbor, where we next anchored, we were completely
+sheltered from the winds, except that which came
+down from the lofty mountains, called by the sailors &ldquo;willewaws.&rdquo;
+The scenery around is exceedingly wild. There
+was a beautiful waterfall on the mountain side, the stream
+probably fed by melting snow. We stopped at many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>
+harbors as we passed along, most of them quite secure when
+entered, but difficult of access. Half-port Bay, at which
+we touched, is very properly named. It is but a slight indentation
+in the land, and has a bottom affording very
+poor holding-ground, covered with kelp; besides, it is very
+imperfectly sheltered from the wind. While lying here we
+had a severe gale from the westward, which produced considerable
+&ldquo;chop.&rdquo; Our vessel dragged her anchors, in consequence
+of their becoming foul with kelp. However, by
+dropping our kedge-anchor, and loading the chains, we
+succeeded in arresting our motion before striking the rocks.
+We had a narrow escape.</p>
+
+<p>At Cape Monday, having cast anchor, we discovered, towards
+night, a steamer on the Patagonian side, bound westward.
+Our colors were set, as there were indications of a
+dark and stormy night, and the steamer turned about and
+steered for our harbor. This was a pleasant circumstance,
+as the captain meant, if possible, to get towed through the
+straits. The vessel anchored near us, and proved to be the
+Fire Fly, Captain Smith master, built for an English
+gentleman residing in Talchuana, and now bound to Valparaiso.
+Captain Smith had his daughter with him, and
+half a dozen passengers. We visited them, and were very
+civilly received, invited into the cabin, and introduced to
+the young lady. On hearing my name, she observed that
+they found at Borga Bay a paper in a bottle, describing
+the captivity of a person bearing the same name in Patagonia,
+with an account of his escape. Captain Morton
+informed her that I was the writer of that document. &ldquo;Is
+it possible?&rdquo; she exclaimed; &ldquo;then you are the hero of
+those adventures!&rdquo; &ldquo;I certainly am the unfortunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>
+person there described,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;though wholly undeserving
+the name of hero.&rdquo; She expressed, as did all the
+passengers, much sympathy, and asked many questions in
+regard to the treatment received and the life led during
+my captivity.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Smith suggested that I might be able to give
+him some information in regard to two Englishmen who
+had been captured by the savages. He had orders from
+the Board of Admiralty to make search at any places at
+which he might touch on the Patagonian coast, and endeavor
+to learn something of their fate. I told him that I
+knew something of certain English prisoners in that country,
+and proceeded to relate what I had learned from the Indians
+of the murder of Captain Eaton, and the capture and
+subsequent murder of Messrs. Sims and Douglass; giving
+the names of the vessel and the prisoners from information
+communicated by Mr. Hall. Captain Smith produced his
+letter of instructions, and the names and circumstances
+perfectly coincided, except that the instructions described
+the Avon as a ship, while she was styled by Mr. Hall as a
+brig; an immaterial variation, as all classes of vessels
+often pass under the general designation of &ldquo;ships.&rdquo; My
+deposition of the facts was written out by two of the passengers,
+and, having been read to me, I signed it, for transmission
+to England. The English government, Captain
+Smith said, had been at great pains and expense to obtain
+information of those unfortunate young men, who belonged
+to highly respectable families in England, and to facilitate
+their escape. Boats had been sent out and buried in the
+sand, and a great number of handkerchiefs had been
+printed, containing particular statements of the situation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>
+the buried boats; these had been distributed to vessels
+bound near the Patagonian coast, to be thrown ashore, in
+the hope that they might be picked up by Indians, and
+thus convey the desired information to the prisoners, if
+they were living. In hearing what the British government
+had done for its unfortunate subjects, I indulged in some
+bitter remarks on the supposed neglect of our government
+in respect to my fate, in leaving me (as I presumed to
+think) to perish among cannibals, without making any
+effort to learn my fate, or to rescue me from destruction;
+remarks of which I had abundant cause to be ashamed,
+when I learned what had been actually attempted in my
+behalf.</p>
+
+<p>We could effect no arrangement to be towed by the
+steamer, as the captain said his stock of fuel was too small
+to warrant running the risk of being retarded; besides, in
+case of accident, it would affect his insurance. We spent
+part of the evening on board the steamer; very soon after
+returning to our ship, a boat, containing two or three of
+the passengers, drew up alongside, and a package was put
+into my hands containing ten dollars, and a letter, signed
+by the captain and passengers, requesting my acceptance
+of the gift, as a slight token of their regard and sympathy.
+While returning my hearty thanks for such a demonstration
+of kindness to a stranger, I begged to decline the
+money; but they urged its acceptance, and I reluctantly
+gratified their wishes.</p>
+
+<p>All the next day we beat along, till we found anchorage
+at Round Island for the night. On nearing the harbor, a
+mast was observed on the rocks, lying partly out of the
+water. I took the boat, early the next morning, to ascertain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>
+if it was attached to a wreck; but found that it was
+loose, and must have drifted there. I knocked off the iron
+band and cross-trees from the mast-head, and brought them
+on board our vessel. At Tamer Harbor, our next port,
+we noticed the wreck of a new vessel, lying well up on
+the shore, her bottom badly shattered by the rocks on
+which she had been driven, and both masts gone; it proved
+to be the &ldquo;John A. Sutter,&rdquo; of Rhode Island. On the
+opposite shore were parts of iron-mills, and other machinery,
+probably designed for use in California. The shore
+was strewed with trunks and chests, from the wreck; she
+had been stripped of everything valuable. The cabin on
+deck had been cut, and partially burned, by those touching
+at the harbor. We fished up a bundle of steel rods from
+the hold, which was partly filled with sand and water.
+The vessel had been wrecked, as we afterwards ascertained,
+in a thick fog, on one of the little islands off the western
+mouth of the straits, and drifted back to the harbor, where
+we found her. While we were here, the schooner Julius
+Pringle, of New London, bound to California, came in and
+anchored. The next day a fine wind bore us to Mercy
+Harbor, the last anchorage in the Straits of Magellan.
+The harbor is a good one; and we determined not to leave
+it till we had a good wind, that would take us well out,
+far enough to clear the islands lying off the north side.
+We remained several days waiting for a south-westerly
+wind, during which delay a pilot-boat, bound for the
+golden country, came up with us. Our time here was
+spent very agreeably; our passage through the straits had
+consumed fifty-one days, and had been effected without
+accident, though we had witnessed repeated tokens of disaster<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>
+to some of our predecessors. By way of celebrating
+our success, we got up a &ldquo;clam-bake,&rdquo; <i>minus</i> the clams, in
+lieu of which we collected and roasted a quantity of muscles,
+by burying them in the earth, and applying hot
+stones; they proved excellent eating, and we had &ldquo;a good
+time.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Our mate, who was a sensible young man, of good education,
+had two foibles; he was a decided grumbler, and, in
+his conviviality, he was a little <i>too</i> far from total abstinence.
+He had a particular dislike of a dog on board,
+purchased at Sandy Point,&mdash;a thievish rascal, that always
+had his nose in anything that was dirty; even the tar and
+slush-buckets did not escape his attentions. On the evening
+of the clam-bake, the mate was a little exhilarated;
+and, having pulled off his pea-jacket preparatory to &ldquo;turning
+in&rdquo; for the night, he seized Bose, mistaking him for
+the jacket he had just dropped, and threw him into his
+berth. The dog was not at all displeased with such comfortable
+quarters, and lay down very nicely with his
+unexpected bed-fellow. I observed the mate, the next
+morning, sitting near his berth, yawning; his eyes presently
+rested on the detested Bose; his feet were in quick
+motion, and an unceremonious kick turned the dog out as
+suddenly as he had been turned in. The incident afforded
+us a hearty laugh at the mate&rsquo;s expense, who became, for
+the rest of the voyage, a decided temperance man.</p>
+
+<p>Tired of our detention, we put off in unfavorable weather;
+the Pringle and the pilot-boat (whose name I have
+forgotten) getting out with us, but we found it expedient
+to retreat to our anchorage. A gale soon followed, which
+prolonged our stay; when its fury was past, we got out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>
+and proceeded northward, for Callao. In passing the port
+of Juan Fernandez, we saw a whaling-ship just putting
+out to sea; we had designed to stop here for some supplies,
+but concluded that we could better obtain them at Callao,
+and held on our course. In our way to Callao we spoke
+the bark Sarah, Captain Morse, from New Bedford,
+bound to California with a company of sixty members,
+of which Captain Morse was president. Our captain told
+them that he had on board a man from New Bedford,&mdash;Captain
+Bourne,&mdash;escaped from captivity among the
+Indians. Captain Morse replied that he recollected the
+sloop of war Vandalia was sent down to the straits in
+search of him. Presently a crowd of persons surrounded
+the captain of the Sarah, who appeared to be talking earnestly;
+the bark was soon hove to, and several gentlemen
+from New Bedford came to us in a boat. They seemed
+overjoyed to find me alive and well, and made numerous
+inquiries about my captivity and rescue. They informed
+me that the Vandalia was despatched by our government
+to my relief, with orders to punish my captors, if expedient
+and practicable. From them, also, I gained the first information
+concerning my ship and shipmates; it seemed
+that the vessel, with the Hebe and the J. B. Gager, lost
+their chains and anchors in the straits, and dragged out to
+sea. The John Allyne, after steering two or three days
+for Montevideo, to repair and obtain supplies, ascertained
+that they had water enough aboard to carry them around
+Cape Horn, the only practicable course, as, without chains
+and anchors, it was impossible to enter the straits. With
+the concurrence of all on board, it was decided to attempt
+the passage round the cape as they were. They encountered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>
+a gale off the Horn; and, while lying to, the vessel
+was knocked on her beam ends. The second mate, Mr. F.
+Crapo, of New Bedford, was washed overboard, and lost;
+others were badly bruised, some narrowly escaping the
+doom of the mate. The cabin partly filled with water;
+but the schooner righted, with the loss of spars, sails, bulwarks,
+caboose, and stanchions. She finally weathered the
+gale, and arrived at Valparaiso, forty-one days after I was
+left in Patagonia. Here the vessel was repaired, at great
+cost, and proceeded safely to California. After the relation
+of this chapter of accidents, I gave them a brief narrative
+of my adventures among the Patagonians; they
+returned towards night to their ship. The wind was light,
+and in the morning we were still near each other; several
+of the passengers came to us in a boat, bringing with them
+a quantity of American newspapers. I found in them
+notices of the disasters that befell my vessel, and the particulars
+of my capture. The papers were lent to me until
+we should meet at Callao,&mdash;a great favor; their contents
+were devoured with a high relish, as they were the first
+American papers I had seen since my capture. Both
+vessels arrived safely, on the third day afterwards, at
+Callao.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening after our arrival, I went with the captain
+and Mr. F. on board the Sarah, and spent an hour
+very agreeably. The passengers had agreed to take the
+diligence next morning, and visit the city of Lima, six
+miles distant, and they invited us to join them. Mr. F.
+assented, but I declined, preferring, on the whole, to
+remain on shipboard. The party were on shore betimes
+the next morning, except Mr. F., who consumed so much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>
+time in urging me to go with them, in which Captain
+Morton joined, that he said the company must have got
+off; and, unless I would accompany him on horseback, he
+would have to bear me company in the ship; so, rather
+than disappoint him, though caring but little personally
+for the jaunt, I yielded. We went ashore immediately,
+procured horses, and, having found our friends, rambled
+over the city, viewing the numerous public buildings by
+which it is adorned. We were continually beset by shrivelled,
+cadaverous beggars; they posted themselves at
+every corner, and besought us, by the Blessed Virgin, to
+give them alms. The day passed, on the whole, so pleasantly,
+and there remained so many objects of interest
+unvisited, we rather regretted that it was not longer. The
+diligence drove up to the hotel towards evening, to take
+our friends to the port; we started for our horses, intending
+to overtake and accompany them in their drive, but
+missed our way. Some time elapsed before we found ourselves
+at the gate of the city, opening on the beautiful
+public road to Callao. As we passed out, we drew up at
+a respectable-looking ranche; two young Spaniards appeared
+to be the only occupants. With some little delay,
+during which one of the two stepped out at a back door,
+we procured cigars, lighted them, and were moving towards
+the entrance. Whilst I was paying for them, my companion
+got the start of me. As I was placing my foot in
+the stirrup, twenty or thirty mounted horsemen dashed
+through the gateway, up to the house. They were armed
+to the teeth; their holsters stuck full of pistols, and I
+could see shining blades protruding through their garments.
+They had a desperate, lawless look, unlike that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>
+of soldiers or civil officers, and it seemed to me they were no
+better than they should be. I thought of the delay in giving
+us our cigars, and it struck me that one of the troop strongly
+resembled the fellow who stepped out so quietly on our entrance.
+I sprang into the saddle and gave my horse two or
+three smart raps, under the stimulus of which he cleared the
+causeway between the sidewalk and the road at a single bound,
+and speedily overtook my companion. He had caught a
+glimpse of the armed cavalcade, and we urged our horses at
+full speed for about a mile, without looking back. On turning,
+nothing was seen but a long streak of dust. We then
+compared notes touching the armed men, and agreed that
+we were best off at a distance from them. We made the
+best of our way to Callao, which we reached a little after
+dark, and found the captain delighted at our safe return, as
+he had feared some accident, having heard since morning of
+several robberies lately committed on that road. He had
+been told that a perfect understanding existed between the
+robbers and the people of Callao, who gave daily intelligence
+of persons leaving the port for the city; and that
+even officers of the government were suspected of conniving
+at these outrages, if not actually in league with the banditti.
+As yet, all attempts to ferret them out and break up their
+combination had failed. Our description of the party we encountered
+so far agreed with the statements of American
+residents at Callao, that we were congratulated, and felt
+disposed to congratulate ourselves, on our safe journey.
+Neither of us was burdened with <i>plata</i>, and we had no more
+effective weapons than our jack-knives.</p>
+
+<p>As a national vessel had been ordered to the coast of
+Patagonia for my relief, I thought it my duty to report<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>
+myself the next day to the American consul, who was much
+interested by the recital of my experience. The brig Ann
+and Julia, Captain McAlister, of New Orleans, came into
+port a day or two after. Captain McAlister said that the
+Vandalia came into Rio Janeiro while he was there, shipped
+more men, and sailed southward in great haste.</p>
+
+<p>Having obtained wood and water and other necessary
+supplies, we put out to sea once more. I must not omit to
+record the kindness shown, and the still greater kindness
+tendered me, by the captain of the Sarah, and all the
+members of the company. They offered me a free passage
+and any assistance I might need on arrival in California;
+but the generosity of Captain Morton had supplied all present
+needs, and, with all gratitude for their proffered aid, I
+was not willing to tax their bounty in advance. We stood
+well to the westward before crossing the line, as only light
+winds can be expected before reaching from five to seven
+degrees of north or south latitude, when the trade-winds set
+in. We had a passage of thirty-seven days from Callao to
+San Francisco, which was in very good time, considering the
+sailing qualities of our vessel. We anchored in the beautiful
+harbor, February 19, 1850, one year and seven days
+from the date of my leaving New Bedford.</p>
+
+<p>Any description of San Francisco would be altogether
+superfluous, as her streets, even, are familiar in the states
+as household words. I found, upon going ashore, letters from
+those most dear to me, which had long awaited my arrival;
+also one from a brother then in California. He stated that
+immediately on hearing of my misfortunes he started for San
+Francisco to see Commodore Jones, then on that station, and
+endeavor to induce him to make an effort for my release.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>
+On making his business known, the gallant commodore
+informed him that he had already heard of it, and had despatched
+the sloop-of-war Levant for my rescue, in the full
+confidence that the enterprise would be successful. When
+I was telling the Indian council that flourishing story of my
+consequence at home, and of the big ships and little ships, the
+big guns and little guns, that were at my command, ready
+to avenge any mischief they might do me, I little thought
+how literally the action of our government, and the spontaneous
+kindness of Commodore Jones, were verifying my
+words. The sympathy manifested in my behalf by the gallant
+commodore deserves more than this passing notice.
+My brother also left a deposit of funds against my arrival,
+if it ever occurred, of the probability of which he was in
+some doubt; also his address, and that of another brother,
+who was then at the mines. I could learn but little as to
+the fate of my vessel, or of my effects on board, except that
+she had duly arrived there, and, after much disagreement
+and dispute among the company, had been sold for a trifle
+above the costs of repair on the passage. This operation, I
+thought, savored little of Yankee shrewdness; since we
+arrived at a later date, with a vessel of about the same size,
+age and value, at a time when shipping was in less demand,
+and sold her for nearly three times the amount. I was
+happy to meet many acquaintances, who gave me a hearty
+welcome, and showed me kindness I can never forget.</p>
+
+<p>The schooner J. Pringle, from which we parted on issuing
+from the Straits of Magellan, arrived in port very soon
+after us, having touched at Valparaiso. Her captain said
+that he found the sloop-of-war Vandalia at Valparaiso, to
+obtain chains and an anchor, as she had lost one anchor and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>
+one hundred and thirty fathoms of chain in Possession Bay,
+and was obliged to double Cape Horn. She was to sail again
+for Patagonia as soon as the damages were repaired, entering
+the western mouth of the straits. Captain B. reported
+my escape, and that I was safe on board the Hopewell, for
+California, informing the officers that he parted company
+with me at Mercy Harbor&mdash;intelligence that was received
+with demonstrations of lively pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>Being unable to obtain any information of my personal
+effects, left on the John Allyne, I left this mushroom city
+on the third day after my arrival, and took passage in the
+steamer Senator for Sacramento, at the moderate fare of
+<i>twenty-five dollars</i> for a passage of a few hours&rsquo; duration.
+I found this city of rag houses full of the indications of its
+recent and rapid settlement. The streets abounded in mud, a
+foot or more in depth. Here I recovered my chest, but the
+trunks containing my clothing were missing. Our company,
+it appeared, had broken up, and its members were dispersed
+hither and thither in the mines, every man for himself. My
+brothers, as near as I could ascertain, were seventy miles
+distant, possibly removed to the Middle Fork of the American
+river, and I decided to start on foot. Accordingly, having
+purchased, at enormous prices, a pair of red flannel
+blankets, thick boots, a rifle and revolver, and other necessary
+equipments, I set out for the mines the next morning,
+in company with two or three persons from the States. The
+road was exceedingly muddy, but materially improved after
+passing Sutter&rsquo;s Fort. We had travelled ten miles, when I
+found that my feet were so badly blistered that I could
+proceed no further, and advised my companions to go on without
+me. My feet were in fact almost completely skinned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>
+After resting at a public-house till the next morning, and
+encasing my sore feet in a pair of poor, thin shoes, I pursued
+my journey. I made very slow progress. An ox-team
+overtook me, the owner of which kept a house, or, more properly
+speaking, a booth, for boarding and lodging miners,
+five or six miles ahead. He kindly offered me a ride, which
+I gladly accepted, and lodged with him for the night.</p>
+
+<p>My journey the next day was less fatiguing; on the day
+following I arrived at Georgetown, where I found that my
+brothers had built them a house and spent the winter, but
+had now left the place, and removed to the Middle Fork.
+The distance was twenty miles by one route and fifteen by
+another. The longest road was considered the best, and I
+followed it, lodging at night in a low grog-shop, denominated
+an inn. A snow-storm detained me here during the
+next forenoon. By noon it appeared to have cleared up,
+and I resumed my march, but had not gone more than a
+mile before it began snowing again, as fast as before; yet I
+was resolved not to turn back. The snow, however, fell so
+fast, and with increasing violence, and the road was so
+wretched, that this resolution was somewhat shaken. The
+way led through a forest of lofty pines, the land broken by
+deep <i>gulches</i> and high hills. As I trudged along through
+the deep snow, my attention was suddenly attracted to a
+clump of bushes by the wayside, that appeared to wave to
+and fro, as if agitated by something more than wind. I felt
+for my knife and pistol, to make sure they were where they
+could be made immediately available, placed my hand on
+the lock of my rifle, and awaited in silence the approach of
+my unseen visitor. Presently a pair of large, glistening
+eyes glared at me through an opening in the bushes. Nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>
+else was discernible; the form, and even the head, of
+the animal to whom these fierce optics appertained, could
+not be made out. But their gaze was fixed steadily upon
+me, and I returned it with equal steadiness, if not equal
+brilliancy and effect, without once changing my position. I
+had heard of looking wild animals out of countenance,
+and determined to try the experiment, before resorting to
+any other decisive measures. After gazing fixedly at the
+mysterious occupant of the thicket for a few minutes, he
+turned and walked leisurely away, giving me only an imperfect
+view of his figure. So far as I could distinguish
+the shape, it appeared to be a grisly bear, though not of the
+largest size. I was glad to get rid of so ugly a customer
+on such easy terms, and went on my way rejoicing, though
+it was a weary and desolate one.</p>
+
+<p>Being very much fatigued, I halted at the foot of a large
+oak-tree, as the shades of evening were closing around me,
+with the design of climbing it, and spending the night as
+comfortably as I could in its branches,&mdash;the lodging that
+I had anticipated might be the only available one. But,
+after a few minutes&rsquo; rest, I roused my flagging energies and
+concluded to feel&mdash;for I could not see&mdash;my way a little
+further, before <i>roosting</i> for the night. The darkness of the
+night, deepened by the storm, hid the path so effectually,
+that the Yankee faculty of <i>guessing</i> was called into abundant
+exercise. I trudged along, however, with dogged determination,
+which was very soon rewarded. Half a mile had
+scarcely been passed, when a bright light greeted me, issuing
+from a tent. Walking up to it, I found it occupied by three
+men, emigrants from the vicinity of my native place. They
+cordially welcomed and hospitably entertained me, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+learning who I was, and promised me every assistance in
+their power.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning I set out again, and reached the river.
+I was at no loss to designate the spot where my brothers
+were likely to be found, but a formidable barrier interposed:
+a rapid and swollen stream separated us, just as we
+were almost within speaking distance. I walked along the
+shore to find a log or some wood with which to construct a
+float; nothing could be found. It was a grievous disappointment;
+my evil star, I thought, had not yet waned.
+At the opposite shore, fastened to the branch of a tree, lay
+a snug little raft, as if in mockery. I must spend the
+night, it seemed, on the river banks, without food or shelter,
+and within sight of my friends. Just before night I was
+fortunate enough to descry a man on the further shore, who
+appeared to be on the look-out for some one, and hailed him.
+He answered, and forthwith took me over. I was soon in
+the presence of my two brothers, neither of whom at first
+recognized me. It was a happy meeting, and on their part
+wholly unexpected, as they had given me up for lost.
+After many congratulations and innumerable questions,
+rapidly interchanged, I mentioned the difficulty I had in
+making the last stage of the journey to them,&mdash;the passage
+of the river. They said that they were on the look-out that
+evening for one of their number: otherwise, I might have
+staid there a week without attracting the attention of anybody.
+They congratulated me on my ill success in searching
+for a log, or the materials to construct a float. The
+attempt to cross would have been extremely hazardous, and
+very likely fatal. The river was full of rapids, eccentric
+currents, and other perils, making it at all times difficult to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>
+cross, with the best facilities that could be commanded.
+Of all this I had ample confirmation in no long time after.
+Two men started to paddle themselves over in a canoe at
+the same place. Before they reached the opposite shore,
+their canoe was borne down the stream into the rapids, and
+dashed to pieces against the rocks. One of them was
+drowned; the other caught the top of a small tree just
+before reaching the rapids. By collecting all the ropes and
+lines we could find, attaching a stone to one end and throwing
+it within his reach, the means of rescue, after several
+trials, were put into his power. Such was the roar of the
+waters we could not speak in tones audible by him, but
+made signs to him to secure the rope about his body, and he
+was drawn to the shore in safety. A similar accident afterwards
+happened to one of my brothers, in attempting to
+cross with another man upon a raft. The swift current
+drifted them within the power of the rapids, and it was only
+by the greatest exertions that they escaped the boiling abyss
+below.</p>
+
+<hr class="art" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center chap">CHAPTER XII.</p>
+
+<p class="chap2">A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result&mdash;Perils of waters&mdash;Sickness
+and bereavement&mdash;Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco&mdash;Voyage
+homeward&mdash;Imposition on shipboard&mdash;Panama&mdash;Havana&mdash;Home&mdash;Concluding
+observations&mdash;Practicability of Christian missions
+in Patagonia considered.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival at the mines, I found my brothers engaged
+in a company of twenty men, organized for the
+purpose of tunnelling a mountain ridge, and digging a
+raceway at its base, with a view to dam the river and
+turn it through the tunnel. By this means the bed of the
+river, for a mile or more, would be laid bare, and gold in
+great profusion, it was believed, would be discovered.
+Nineteen of the members were on the ground; the twentieth
+was unable to come; and, though there were several applicants
+for the vacancy, I was chosen to fill it. We
+commenced operations in about a week. It may give a
+clearer idea of the magnitude of the work, to state that an
+excavation, twelve feet wide by seven deep, was made, by
+blasting through rock (slate and granite) a distance of
+over a hundred feet. The race was nearly half a mile in
+length; the prices paid for every article of food were
+enormous. Before turning the river, we let out the expected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>
+field of gold to be worked by seven hundred men,
+who were to give us one-half of the produce; there was
+great expectation. The work was the greatest of this
+nature that had yet been undertaken in California; we
+had worked hard through a whole season, and brought it
+to a successful completion, without any fatal accident,
+though several dangerous circumstances had threatened to
+retard its progress. Everything being prepared, the dam
+was closed, the river rose,&mdash;pressed, as if angrily, against
+the new barrier that opposed its wonted flow,&mdash;and then
+sullenly explored the novel course that solicited its waters.
+The dry channel was eagerly attacked; but, alas for
+human hopes! it proved to be anything but rich; in fact,
+it was less favorable for working than the average, and
+the diggers abandoned the spot, leaving the company chagrined,
+and greatly disheartened at their fruitless conclusion.</p>
+
+<p>I came very near being delivered from this disappointment,
+and from all other earthly cares,&mdash;those of authorship
+included,&mdash;by a hasty trip into the rapids. During
+the intervals of our work, a young man of the company
+undertook with me to construct a canoe, and establish a
+ferry for passengers across the river. Our skiff, on its
+completion, was carried by all hands to the river bank, and
+committed to the stream, with all the ceremonies customary
+on the launching of larger craft. A successful adventure
+was made, the next day, with one passenger. On the
+following day six miners applied for passage; I took half
+of them on board, with their picks, pans and shovels, and
+started with them. We had approached within ten feet
+of the opposite bank, when a counter-current suddenly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>
+struck us, whirled the head of the boat from the direction
+of the shore, and, in spite of the utmost exertion, carried
+us into the stream, and almost over the rapids. By a successful
+man&oelig;uvre we turned her head up stream, and
+paddled moderately till we had passed the dangerous spot.
+At length, after a great struggle with imminent danger,
+in the midst of which the passengers were praying and
+crying for mercy and help, we reached some trees, standing
+in the swollen stream. By taking hold of one of the
+branches the boat was brought to, but with such violence
+as to dash in her side; we sprang safely into the trees as
+soon as the boat struck. Our friends on shore cut poles,
+and extended them to us, by help of which we were soon
+on terra firma. Our boat rolled over, and sunk. An attack
+of dysentery soon after interrupted my work, but not for a
+great length of time.</p>
+
+<p>After the failure of our river speculation, I spent some
+time &ldquo;prospecting&rdquo; for a desirable &ldquo;digging.&rdquo; Before
+one was discovered that offered much inducement, I was
+again prostrated by illness, during which my brothers
+joined me, with the mournful intelligence that my little
+son was no more! These heavy tidings, at such a time,
+proved almost too much for an enfeebled body and anxious
+mind; it was the thought of my little family that nerved
+my spirit against despair, in the darkest hours of captivity.
+A blow <i>there</i> turned my strength into weakness, and my
+weakness well-nigh into absolute helplessness.</p>
+
+<p>It would be too far from the purpose of this volume
+to solicit the reader&rsquo;s company through all my wanderings
+for a year and a half in this wonderful country, to which
+so many high hopes are carried, and from which so many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>
+sad disappointments are daily borne. It is enough to say
+that I had six successive attacks of sickness, the last the
+most severe of all; I was brought to death&rsquo;s door, and
+had little hope of seeing home again. After a month&rsquo;s
+illness, my medical attendant advised a return to the
+States, as soon as I could bear the exercise of riding. At
+the earliest day prudence would allow, I was carried, with
+all practicable care, to Sacramento, a city I had not seen
+since I passed through it a year and a half before. Its
+appearance was greatly improved in every respect. With
+the increased supply of necessaries and conveniences, the
+fabulous prices of eighteen months before had given place
+to more sober, authentic, and matter-of-fact demands;
+steamboat fare had fallen from twenty-five dollars to one,
+and the crowding and shouting of runners compared with
+the most active scenes of the kind to be witnessed in New
+York or Albany. We arrived at San Francisco during the
+night; as the day dawned, and the mist that covered the
+town was lifted, the spectacle that met the view was like
+enchantment; a compact and well-built city had risen, its
+beautiful harbor lined with extensive wharves, spacious
+warehouses, and elegant dwellings, fronting upon broad
+streets, and all appliances of business and pleasure offering
+themselves in profusion.</p>
+
+<p>I walked to the nearest hotel, as I was too feeble to go a
+hundred yards. The friend who accompanied me, and took
+upon himself all care of the voyage in respect to both of
+us, found that the steamers were crowded to the utmost,
+and engaged passage in a bark for San Juan del Sud, or
+Panama. We examined the printed bill of fare, and
+thought it would be very satisfactory, if its promises were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>
+fulfilled. I noticed, however, that the potatoes on board
+were of bad quality, and suggested the propriety of raising
+a committee of passengers to investigate the stores; but the
+motion was overruled as unnecessary.</p>
+
+<p>We put to sea with about a hundred and thirty passengers,
+many of whom suffered severely from sea-sickness.
+These improved in a few days, and began to feel like
+eating; but, to their consternation, instead of wholesome
+provisions and fresh water, nothing was to be had but
+spoiled meat, and water that was unfit to drink, having
+been put up in old beer-casks and become tainted,&mdash;and a
+short allowance of that. We were stinted to three pints a
+day each for drinking and culinary purposes. The only
+wholesome and eatable articles of food were pork, bread
+and dried apples. Tea and coffee were too wretched to be
+used. Those wiseacres who had so summarily declined any
+examination of the provisions before starting now came to
+me with very long faces, confessing their error when it was
+too late to be remedied. For forty-eight days they languished
+on this miserable fare. There were many quarrels
+and contentions on board, growing out of these difficulties,
+and some cases of sickness. We buried two men at sea
+and one the day after our arrival in port; and the whole
+company, in fact, were little better than skeletons when
+they reached San Juan. As to myself, my appetite craved
+but little food, and the sea air agreed so well with me that
+I had almost recovered on arrival there.</p>
+
+<p>We mounted mules on the following day, and crossed to
+Lake Nicaragua, which we reached just too late for the
+steamer. Some of the company went up the lake and procured
+small sail to take them across, but I decided to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>
+remain till the arrival of another regular steamer from San
+Francisco. This detained us two weeks, when we proceeded
+to Georgetown, on the Atlantic shore, and took
+passage on board the steamer Daniel Webster, for New
+York, <i>via</i> Havana. As we passed out of the harbor a
+salute was fired for the United States steamer Saranac,
+then visiting that port to investigate the affair of the
+British brig Express firing into one of our steamers a short
+time before, on account of a refusal to pay certain port
+charges. When fairly outside the bar, the tables were set,
+and the hungry passengers had begun fortifying their
+stomachs with eager emulation, when I perceived a commotion
+among the officers and men betokening something
+wrong. Presently the head pump was working lively, and
+the men appeared, running with buckets of water. To the
+questions rained upon them they made no reply, but
+hastened along in silence. The boat had taken fire, but it
+was promptly extinguished before many of the passengers
+suspected it.</p>
+
+<p>On arrival at Havana we anchored, after dark, under the
+walls of the fort, and our fires were allowed to go out.
+During the night a breeze sprung up, producing a swell in
+the harbor, which rendered our position a dangerous one, as
+there was not room for the boat to swing around clear of
+the rocks. The passengers all felt extremely anxious for
+their safety; but the fires were renewed, sufficient steam
+was soon generated to work the ponderous engine, the
+steamer swung slowly and safely around, and we were safe.
+The Spanish guard-boats ordered us back to our first anchorage,
+but the captain replied that he was master of the
+vessel and should put her in a place of safety.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The next morning we took in coal and started for New
+York. I was seized, on the following day, for the first
+time in my life, with chills and fever, but partially recovered,
+under care of the ship&rsquo;s physician, before arriving
+in port. We made New York without accident, and having
+spent two days in the city, the steamer State of Maine bore
+me to my home, January 13th, 1852,&mdash;after an absence of
+three years, lacking a month,&mdash;with a heart rising gratefully
+to God for his many interpositions in my behalf, to
+deliver me from the perils of the sea and the perils of the
+land.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p>It can scarcely be necessary, for the benefit of any reader
+who has followed me through the course of this narrative,
+to add any remarks on the hazards of visiting Patagonia,
+or the consequences likely to ensue in the event of shipwreck
+on that desolate coast. The land is dreary, and it
+were a sufficient trial of fortitude to be cast away upon it,&mdash;to
+run the imminent risk of perishing by cold, and
+hunger and thirst. But the extremest peril arising from
+the poverty of the country is exhilarating, compared with
+the tender mercies of the people. Rather than trust to
+their protection, better hide from the light of day and gnaw
+the bark of stunted trees for food, drinking, as I did, from
+the briny sea. The dread which has deterred voyagers
+from entering the country, or even touching the shore,
+unless armed to the teeth, offering articles of traffic with
+one hand and holding a loaded musket in the other, is no
+more than reasonable. I do not know that the country has
+ever been explored by civilized man. The officers and men
+of the Adventure and Beagle, two ships sent out by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>
+British Admiralty to survey the Straits of Magellan in the
+years 1826, 1830, 1832 and 1834, examined and penetrated
+the country to a greater extent than any other voyagers.</p>
+
+<p>If the other tribes inhabiting the country resemble that
+with which I was domesticated, it must be a hazardous
+enterprise for missionaries to attempt the propagation of
+the gospel among them. Even apart from this, the difficulty
+of gaining a subsistence there must prove an almost
+insuperable obstacle. The barrenness of the soil, and the
+want of water, render agriculture a desperate resource, and
+there is no spontaneous product of the earth to sustain
+life. To live like the savages would be simply impossible
+to men who have been habituated to the comforts of civilized
+life; I could not have survived many months of such
+hardship. Provisions would have to be imported; this
+difficulty seems sufficient to discourage, if not to prevent,
+efforts in that direction. When, to this, we add the
+cruelty, the duplicity, the treachery and blood-thirstiness
+of the people, I am unable to conjecture through what
+direct agency they can be reached by the influences of
+Christianity. Whether access to them could be gained
+through their Spanish American neighbors, or by enticing
+some of them, when young, into a more civilized society,
+and so opening an avenue of peaceable and beneficial
+intercourse, it is not easy to conclude, without actual
+experiment.</p>
+
+<p>Since returning to this country, these views have been
+confirmed, by the narrative recently published of the sad fate
+of the English missionaries sent to Patagonia. Captain Gardiner,
+and three or four Cornish fishermen, who volunteered
+for this labor of love, were landed by a passing vessel somewhere,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>
+on the inhospitable coast. So inveterate was the
+hostility of the natives, they durst not trust themselves
+among them; they were driven, in their covered barges,
+from place to place; like their Master, having not, on the
+land, where to lay their heads. Arrangements had been
+made, before leaving England, to have provisions follow
+them; thirty-six barrels of provisions, destined for them,
+were found some time after, by a government vessel, at
+the Falkland Islands. The commander took them on board,
+and sailed for the place of their destination; upon their
+first landing, traces of the unfortunate men were found;
+and, on thorough search, directions were discovered to
+look for them at another place. They were followed from
+one stopping-place to another, till the grave of one of them
+was found, who had died of starvation. The survivors
+were traced to a spot where their boats lay on the shore,
+unoccupied; at a little distance off lay their bodies, unburied,
+their bones bleaching on the sand. The humane
+discoverers buried their remains. On lifting a stone from
+the mouth of a cave, there was disclosed a narrative of
+their sufferings, and of successive deaths, written by Captain
+Gardiner; at the date of the last entry he had not
+tasted food for four days. In all probability, he shared
+the fate of his brethren,&mdash;starvation,&mdash;and with him closed
+their melancholy history. A sad tale! Yet there were
+days and weeks when I would have gladly exchanged my
+lot for wanderings like theirs, upon the desert shore. But
+from those horrors I was mercifully delivered; they, in
+the prosecution of a sacred and benevolent errand, were
+cut down by the dispensation of Him who seeth not as
+man seeth.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It may occur to some reader that the deceptions I practised
+upon the natives, as frankly narrated, had a tendency
+to impair their confidence in white men, and thus to increase
+the difficulty of reaching them by Christian influences,
+and to render the lot of any poor man hereafter
+falling into their hands more desperate than it would
+otherwise be. Perhaps so; yet the danger does not seem
+so imminent, when we consider that they are entire
+strangers to truth. Probably no Patagonian&rsquo;s experience
+or observation could furnish an example of consistent
+veracity, and they would not be likely to suspect the existence
+of such a virtue in any one. It is apparent, from
+their behavior in the &ldquo;last scene of all&rdquo; with me, that
+from first to last they vehemently mistrusted my statements;
+and their most likely comment on the report of
+the chief must have been, &ldquo;I told you so.&rdquo; The shock
+was less than if they had reposed a more generous confidence.</p>
+
+<p>The notoriety which was given to my capture by the
+newspaper press called forth many expressions of sympathy
+from persons who knew nothing of me, except that
+I was a fellow-being in distress. To all such I tender my
+thanks. It is a grateful duty, in parting company with
+the reader, to renew the expression of thankful remembrance
+with which I recall the benefactors who, under God,
+rescued and befriended me,&mdash;Mr. Hall, and the noble-hearted
+captains, who fed and clothed me when hungry and
+naked, and conveyed me gratuitously to my destination.
+Nor can I forget the prompt action of the Honorable
+Secretary of the Navy, the efficient exertions of the officers
+of the Vandalia, or the generosity of Commodore Jones.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>
+I would also acknowledge, with the liveliest gratitude, my
+obligations to the Hon. Daniel Webster,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">&#42;</a> the Hon. R. C.
+Winthrop, the Hon. George Evans, of Maine, and to the
+Hon. Joseph Grinnell, and the Hon. John H. Clifford, of
+New Bedford;&mdash;all of whom, when informed of my captivity,
+volunteered their aid, and made those representations
+to the Navy department which resulted in the
+despatch of the Vandalia on her humane mission. Nor
+must I omit to add my thanks to Mr. Denison, who kindly
+bore their memorials to Washington, and laid them before
+the department. If I acquired nothing more by my
+unlooked-for experience, I at least gained a warmer patriotism,
+and a profounder sense of the benignant wisdom
+of Providence.</p>
+<hr class="foot" />
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">&#42;</span></a> Since this was written he has passed beyond the reach of my thanks;
+but this fact cannot suppress the utterance of gratitude which I owe to
+his august memory.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+Project Gutenberg's The Captive in Patagonia, by Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Captive in Patagonia
+
+Author: Benjamin Franklin Bourne
+
+Release Date: December 25, 2011 [EBook #38408]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Paul Fernandez and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+  +------------------------------------------------+
+  |                                                |
+  | Transcriber's Note: For ASCII version, accents |
+  | replaced with unaccented characters. Degree    |
+  | symbol substituted by text.                    |
+  |                                                |
+  +------------------------------------------------+
+
+  [Illustration: HUNTING THE GUANACHO. See p. 70.]
+
+
+  THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA;
+
+    OR,
+
+  LIFE AMONG THE GIANTS.
+
+
+  A PERSONAL NARRATIVE.
+
+    BY
+
+  BENJAMIN FRANKLIN BOURNE.
+
+
+  With Illustrations.
+
+
+    BOSTON:
+  GOULD AND LINCOLN,
+  59 WASHINGTON STREET.
+  1853.
+
+  Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by
+    GOULD & LINCOLN,
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the
+    District of Massachusetts.
+
+
+  STEREOTYPED BY
+  HOBART & ROBBINS,
+  NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY,
+  BOSTON.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Book-making is so much of a trade, that it may be thought quite
+unnecessary to be at the trouble to assign reasons for embarking in it;
+but, as it is not my own vocation, it will be allowed me to say, that
+the deep interest which many, not only of my personal friends, but
+others whom I never saw, have taken in my fortunes, and the desires
+expressed, both verbally and by letter, to know more of my adventures
+than was communicated through the newspapers, overcame the reluctance I
+felt to undertake such a task. The interest of personal adventure,
+however, great as it might be in immediate view of the events while they
+were fresh, would not alone have been presumed upon as a sufficient
+attraction for this volume. But the strangeness of the country
+observed, and the deficiency of exact information concerning its people,
+it was thought, would make welcome any contribution, however slight, to
+the knowledge of this section of our world and race. After the
+contradictory statements of voyagers as to the "giants" of South
+America, there may be some curiosity to hear the testimony of one who
+has "seen the elephant" under circumstances that enabled him to measure
+its proboscis.
+
+My story is a plain one,--a simple record of facts, but not, I would
+hope, tedious. It offers no feats of literary agility for the critic's
+inspection, but a recital of human experiences and observations,
+sufficiently aside from the beaten track of life to have attracted a
+degree of attention which flatters me with the belief that they will
+repay a nearer and more minute survey.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading with
+     Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners by
+     them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of release
+     on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon              25
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad                                              47
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Reunion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians                   63
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring Fashion      78
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase                          100
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life                                      114
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists                         128
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia         144
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends              166
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain                                         189
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting              204
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered                                                    223
+
+
+
+
+THE CAPTIVE IN PATAGONIA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     For California--Pernambuco--Straits of Magellan--Trading
+     with Patagonians--Their treachery--Four men made prisoners
+     by them--Three escape; the author detained, with promises of
+     release on paying ransom--Indian village--The chief and his
+     household--Eating, sleeping, and adventure in a Patagonian
+     wigwam--Find myself booked for an indefinite residence in
+     Patagonia, and some natural reflections thereupon.
+
+
+Among the early subjects of the "gold fever" that became epidemic in the
+autumn and winter of 1848-9, a company of twenty-five men left the port
+of New Bedford in the schooner John Allyne, A. Brownell, master, and B.
+F. Bourne, mate, for California. The vessel had been selected for her
+good sailing qualities, light draught of water, and general fitness for
+river navigation. In the haste and excitement of the time,
+California-bound craft carried out some rather motley companies; but we
+considered ourselves fortunate in the character of the men associated in
+this enterprise, and were organized on such principles of equality as
+seemed to promise entire harmony and good fellowship. Of course we had
+high and golden hopes, and our great object was to reach the new Ophir
+in the easiest and most expeditious manner. On account of the delays and
+dangers incident to the doubling of Cape Horn, it was determined to
+attempt the passage of the Straits of Magellan.
+
+We left port on the 13th of February, and for many days our time passed
+pleasantly, but rather monotonously, with nothing greatly to exhilarate
+or to depress our spirits. It was discovered, at length, that our vessel
+needed some running rigging. The more impatient were for going on, and
+making such headway as we could without it; but a majority of the
+company decided to run for the nearest convenient port, and replenish.
+We accordingly ran for Pernambuco, and anchored in the outer harbor on
+the 25th of March. The beauty and security of this harbor are
+remarkable. It is defended from the sea by a nearly perpendicular reef,
+extending three-fourths of the way across its entrance, with an opening
+of ample width for the passage of vessels to a safe anchorage. Being but
+eight degrees south of the equator, the town lies continually under the
+burning rays of a tropical sun. Its appearance is like that of most
+Spanish and Portuguese cities, abounding in high and massive buildings,
+with more of the castle than of the counting-house or dwelling in their
+outward expression, built upon narrow, irregular streets, that are
+constantly alive with men and beasts of divers colors and forms. Men
+from the country, driving their mustangs, mules and asses, laden with
+produce; wealthy and noble citizens borne by servants in palanquins;
+women bearing water in buckets, tubs and urns, which they balance on
+their heads without the aid of their hands, and walk off under as erect
+as so many midshipmen;--all the sights and sounds have a pleasant
+strangeness, that made our visits on shore highly agreeable. The
+churches, which are quite numerous, have nothing admirable or attractive
+outside, but the richness of their interior decoration testifies to the
+prevailing orthodoxy and fervor of devotion to the Church of Rome. The
+church is, indeed, the grand receptacle of the wealth of the country.
+Every _bueno catolico_ of them, rich, or poor, will sooner stint himself
+and his family in their daily comforts, or even necessaries of life,
+than omit his due contribution to mother church.
+
+Our stay at Pernambuco was short, which must excuse a more particular
+description of its notabilities. Having obtained the articles we needed,
+we stood out to sea. Nothing occurred on our passage to the straits
+worthy of particular record. We spoke one or two vessels, and spent some
+time "gaming" with them,--the nautical phrase for visiting. On the 30th
+of April we made Cape Virgin, and stood in for the Straits of Magellan.
+In company with us, and bound for the same golden country, by the same
+course as ourselves, were bark Hebe, of Baltimore, and schooner J. B.
+Gager, of New York. We were becalmed off the mouth of the straits for
+several hours, and Captain Brownell visited the Hebe. He returned just
+before night. A fair wind setting in from the eastward, we all stood in,
+the J. B. Gager, as being best acquainted with the navigation, taking
+the lead. The three vessels anchored about midnight, within twelve miles
+of the first narrows.
+
+The next morning, it being calm, some of our men went on shore in the
+small boat, for a gunning excursion. They returned early in the
+forenoon, with a large number of sea-fowl. Not long after, Captain
+Brownell announced his intention to go ashore, and commenced making
+preparations. He soon changed his mind, however, and asked me to go, in
+his stead, to procure some fresh provisions, if they were to be had.
+Knowing, from the reports of whalers and others, something of the savage
+character of the natives, I felt reluctant to venture; but afterwards,
+to oblige the captain, I complied.
+
+Taking our guns, a bag of bread, and some tobacco, four of us started
+for the shore. As we approached the beach, a crowd of black-looking
+giants came to the water's edge to gaze at us. We did not particularly
+fancy their looks, and lay on our oars for a considerable length of
+time. A recollection of the many ugly stories current about the
+Patagonians, their barbarous and cruel character, did not greatly
+fortify our confidence, or make us especially anxious for a personal
+acquaintance with them. We accordingly lay off in our boat, and, hailing
+them in Spanish, asked them if they had eggs, fowls, and beef. They
+replied, in broken Spanish, that they had plenty at their houses. I told
+them to produce their stores, and they should have plenty of bread in
+exchange. We parleyed with them for some time, till our boat at length
+touched the shore. I stood in the boat's stern, gun in hand, endeavoring
+to keep the natives from stealing, and warned the men not to leave the
+boat. They jumped ashore, promising not to stray from the spot. The
+Indians offered some skins for sale, which I paid for in bread. While my
+attention was diverted from them by this barter, the Indians were
+coaxing my men away. I looked about, and found only one man near me. He
+was despatched in pursuit of the others, and directed to bring them
+without delay. The tide at this point rises and falls forty-two feet. It
+was now ebb tide, the boat was fast grounding, and, it being large and
+heavily loaded, I was unable to get it off. The old chief and several
+other Indians crowded into it, and once in could not be got out.
+Persuasion was useless, and they were too many to be driven. In short, I
+was in their hands, and became immediately conscious of the difficulty
+and peril of my situation;--my men gone, I knew not where, the boat fast
+aground and crowded with the savages, while nearly a thousand of the
+tribe congregated upon the beach. What was before me, at the worst, I
+could only conjecture from report; and nothing but evil was reported of
+the creatures that surrounded me. What could I do? A question easier
+asked than answered.
+
+After a long time, or what seemed such under circumstances that made
+minutes seem ages, one of my men came down, and asked permission to go
+to the Indian village, "a little way back from the shore," as they had
+been promised meat, eggs, and fowls. I ordered him to come immediately
+back to the boat. He persisted in urging his request, but it was so
+dangerously absurd that I absolutely refused. He then said he would
+inform his comrades of my refusal, and return immediately to the boat;
+but, for some cause, they seemed in no hurry to obey orders. Weary of
+waiting for them, and not without apprehension, I asked an Indian for
+the use of his horse, and rode with all speed after the fugitives. In
+the hurry of pursuit I inadvertently passed them, and tried to turn back
+my steed; but his inclinations were decidedly against a retreat. While
+our opposing impulses kept us stationary for a moment, I descried my men
+approaching on horseback, behind the Indians. When they came up I urged
+them to return to the boat. They persisted in going with the savages. I
+remonstrated with them on the impropriety and danger of their course,
+but in vain. Their mouths watered for the meat and eggs they were told
+of. Their cunning guides had completely allayed suspicion, and even laid
+to sleep their common prudence. The Indians kept on their course,--the
+men followed, and I felt at my wits' end. I rode from one to another,
+talking as industriously and as urgently as I could. At last I gave them
+peremptory orders to return. The Indians had plainly lied to us. Their
+village, they said, was only a little way off; and yet we were
+three-fourths of a mile from the boat, and not a house was yet in sight.
+Determined to go back, if I had to go alone, I turned my horse's head.
+
+At this point the mask was thrown off. The Indians seized my bridle, and
+arrested my progress. We all dismounted, with a view to retreat on foot,
+but before I could reach the man nearest to me the Indians had robbed
+him of his gun. With a mutual agreement to stand by each other in case
+of pursuit, we hastened our retrograde march, but had made no great
+distance when we saw the Indians coming after us. They rode in advance
+of us, halted in our front, and manoeuvred to cut off our retreat; but
+by various zigzag movements, or boldly turning their horses' heads, we
+made considerable progress. Our foes, however, knew what they were at;
+it was only a question of time with them. A sudden and decided movement
+indicated a crisis. I drew my pistols (a pair of single-barrelled
+ones), but before I had time to cock one I was jumped upon from behind
+by some half-dozen of these monsters. One of them grasping a pistol by
+the barrel, I pointed it to his head and pulled the trigger. It missed
+fire, and I thank God that it did! Its discharge would have certainly
+killed him, and would as certainly have been revenged upon my life,
+probably upon the lives of my comrades. This is easily felt and said
+now; but at the moment, when excited by the struggle for liberty, and,
+as I feared, for life, with such dreaded enemies and at such formidable
+odds, it was quite another matter.
+
+The old chief now came up, took me firmly by the wrist, and said, "Usted
+no bono! usted habla varmano por me casa, mucho, mala hombre currarhae!
+mucho montaro hombre!"--by which specimen of choice Spanish he desired
+to inform me that we promised to go to their houses, and now would not
+go; that we were bad men and liars. His peculiarly thick and guttural
+pronunciation did not make the dialect more intelligible; but I was in a
+situation where criticism would have been rather out of place, and my
+ears were quickened by the revelations made to sight. I therefore
+promptly replied, that if he would restrain his men from violence, we
+would go where he pleased. They, meanwhile, grasped their knives, and
+looked as if they wanted to use them on our persons; but the chief told
+them, No, _not then_; he would get rum and tobacco for us first, and
+kill us afterwards. Whilst I was thus engaged, my nearest companion
+discovered his gun in the hands of an Indian who stood not far from
+where I was struggling. Rushing suddenly upon him, he succeeded in
+recovering his piece,--more by tact than force, for his antagonist, like
+all the Patagonians, was very large and muscular. Then nimbly jumping
+aside, he told me to look out for myself. That was rather more than I
+felt able to do just at the moment. One Indian seized me by my arms and
+legs, some of them grasped my body, and others were busy investigating
+the contents of my pockets, and appropriating the same to their own use.
+And if he supposed himself able to show as much independence as he
+recommended me to, he was evidently mistaken. He had not elevated his
+gun to his face when the Indians were upon him, and wrenched it from his
+grasp. The old chief, all this time, held me tightly by the wrist,
+menacing his followers with his half-drawn cutlass, while I endeavored
+to bid for life and liberty. I told him he should have plenty of rum,
+tobacco, bread, flour, brass and beads, if he would carry us to the
+boat. At length he beat off my plunderers, and seemed on the point of
+yielding to my terms. He mounted his horse, and ordered me to get up
+behind him. I obeyed with alacrity, and fancied myself in a fair way to
+get out of trouble.
+
+But, whatever may have been the chief's original intention, I had not
+gone far before his policy was diverted. One of the most audacious of
+the troop rode up, and insisted that I should not be allowed to return.
+I was the captain of the ship, he affirmed, and if I were restored they
+would get none of the promised rum and tobacco. The old savage seemed
+struck by this new suggestion, and halted. We then dismounted, and he
+led the horse up the hill, ordering me to follow. I was next directed to
+sit on the ground and wait further action. There I sat, looking
+alternately, with longing eyes, at the boat, and at our vessel riding at
+anchor in plain view. My three companions were soon brought to the
+spot, and dismounted. And now began a more earnest negotiation. We
+offered large ransom, and after some higgling they agreed that three of
+our number might be released, but one must remain as a hostage; and I
+was pointed out as the one. I endeavored to have one of the others stay,
+and one actually agreed to; but his heart soon failed him, and I could
+see that he was using all his powers of persuasion to provide for
+himself. I assured him that I would use every effort in his behalf, if
+he would consent to remain for the present; but he evidently thought of
+the maxim, "A bird in the hand," &c., and was bent on making sure of his
+own safety first of all. Poor fellow! I cannot blame him for loving his
+own life, though, at the moment, it did seem rather hard that, after
+getting into the scrape by their own headstrong folly, against my
+entreaties and peremptory commands, they should extricate themselves
+from it at my expense, and leave me to bear the hardest of it! Very
+likely I might have done the same, if our cases had been reversed. And,
+even if one of them had offered to remain, it is very doubtful whether
+the substitution would have been permitted. The Indians too evidently
+regarded me as the chief prize, and were bent on retaining me as such.
+They insisted that I must stay while the other three should go for
+ransom, and I had nothing to do but to submit.
+
+Three Indians each took a man with him on a horse, and started for the
+boat. I watched them as they went, with feelings that I will not attempt
+to describe. It seemed but too probable we should never meet again. A
+sense of desolation came over me, at the thought of being left alone in
+the power of these savages, of whose treachery and cunning I had
+already had such ample experience, and of whose cruelty I had heard so
+much. I felt that I was beyond the aid, if not cut off from the
+sympathy, of my associates. The falseness of the Indians to all their
+engagements, as I afterwards learned, was signally displayed towards my
+more fortunate comrades. They evidently had no intention of releasing
+any of us. Before reaching the boat, they halted, and refused to go any
+further, or allow our men to leave them. The prisoners, however,
+struggled desperately, and at length got clear of their captors. One
+rushed up to his neck in water, the others sprang into the boat, pushed
+off, and rescued him as he was struggling with the waves. They reached
+the schooner, told their tale, and represented my desperate situation.
+All hands commenced breaking up cargo, to get at the rum and tobacco for
+my ransom. Two boats were forthwith manned, provided with the required
+articles, and with plenty of arms and ammunition, and started for the
+shore. They got to the land a little before dark, and pulled into a
+cove, or slight indentation of the beach.
+
+On catching sight of them, I desired the Indians to conduct me to the
+shore, and receive the ransom. But this they declined. They ordered me
+to the summit of an eminence near by, there to beckon the men to come
+ashore. An old skin was given me to wave as a signal. Perceiving that I
+was to be used as a decoy to lure the others into their treacherous
+snare, and secure them all as prisoners, I protested against this new
+breach of faith, and assured them that our men would not leave their
+boat, but that, if they wanted any rum and tobacco, they must take me to
+the shore. To this, after a long palaver, and with visible reluctance,
+they assented. The old chief ordered me to mount his horse,--this time
+reversing our relative positions; he made me sit on the rude apology for
+a saddle and guide the horse, while he took his seat behind, clasping
+both arms tightly around my body, and spurring his old nag forward. Thus
+mounted, and wondering what would be the next trick of the savages, I
+was conveyed to the shore, near the spot where the boats lay off on
+their oars. Driving as near them as possible, I hailed the men,--told
+them by no means to fire on the Indians, but to give them all they had
+promised. They asked what they should do with the articles. I turned to
+the chief, told him what the boats had brought, and once more asked if
+it was a satisfactory ransom. He said, Yes; if those articles were laid
+down, I should be released. But he was plainly resolved to have his pay
+in advance; he distrusted us too much to let me go first; and I need not
+say that my confidence in him was far from implicit. But, "Nothing
+venture, nothing have,"--I directed the men to put the things ashore,
+which they did. The Indians greedily picked them up, and I claimed my
+release. The old rascal said, "he had not got _plenty_ of rum yet, he
+must have a barrel." I insisted and struggled, but to no purpose. He
+kept a tight hold of my body, and when I begged that at least he would
+not squeeze me quite so painfully, he only redoubled his clasp. He
+obviously suspected, and I more than suspected, that it would not
+require a very great relaxation of his embrace to prompt a pretty
+decided movement on my part, for the effectual resisting of which the
+vicinity of the water was not altogether favorable. He now began
+spurring his old horse from the scene of action; I drew upon the bridle
+with my whole available force and weight; but the disparity between
+human strength and horse power, stimulated to its utmost by the spur,
+was too great. I begged the men in the boats to come again the next
+morning, and on no account to leave me, which they solemnly promised.
+
+I was now hurried back into the country five or six miles, and at last
+reached an Indian village, and was set down by the old chief at his
+wigwam. He gave me in charge to one of his squaws, who ordered me into
+the hut and bade me sit down on the ground. While sitting there, and
+casting an inquisitive glance around the rude habitation, my attention
+was suddenly attracted to what appeared to be several pairs of eyes in a
+dark corner, shining with a strange brilliancy. I speculated silently on
+the sight, much doubting whether they belonged to human beings or to
+wild beasts; but, on carefully reconnoitring, I discovered that they
+belonged to three huge women. Further investigations disclosed a number
+of dark-skinned boys and girls, of divers ages and sizes, playing and
+capering about the premises, in a state of perfect nudity. It took a
+considerable time to make out these, or any other objects, distinctly,
+owing to the darkness of the hut. Presently the chief, the patriarch of
+the tribe, entered his habitation, and began a conversation, in his
+peculiar dialect, with his wives. He spoke in a low, guttural tone, in
+words the purport of which I could not gather. I was in no mood for
+conversation, but would have been much gratified by learning his version
+of the day's "stroke of business."
+
+And now a few dry sticks and a bunch of dry grass were brought, mine
+host drew from a convenient repository a brass tinder-box, with a stone
+and a piece of steel, and soon produced a blaze that brilliantly
+illuminated the scene. By its light I was enabled to survey the first
+specimen of Patagonian architecture that had blessed my vision. It was
+constructed in a _pointed_ style, though not very aspiring, consisting
+of a row of stakes about eight feet high, each terminating at top in a
+crotch, or fork, with a pole laid across them; two parallel rows of
+stakes on either side, about two feet high, with similar terminations,
+and a similar horizontal fixture; and a covering composed of skins of
+the guanaco, sewed together with the sinews of the ostrich, the only
+thread used by the people. This covering is drawn over the frame-work,
+and fastened by stakes driven through it into the ground. For purposes
+of ventilation some interstices are left, but these again are half
+closed by skins attached to the outside; so that the air from without,
+and the smoke from within (in default of a chimney), must insinuate
+themselves through these apertures in great moderation. In truth, my
+first survey was rather hurried; the first cheerful gleam had scarcely
+set my eyes on the look-out when I was fain to shut them against an
+intolerable smoke. In no long time I felt as bacon, if conscious, might
+be supposed to feel in the process of curing. No lapse of time was
+sufficient to reconcile my eyes, nostrils and lungs, to the nuisance;
+often have I been more than half strangled by it, and compelled to lie
+with my face to the ground, as the only endurable position. Talk that is
+"worse than a smoky house" must be something out of date, or
+Shakspeare's imagination never comprehended anything so detestable as a
+Patagonian hut. The chief and his numerous household, however, seemed
+to enjoy immense satisfaction; and jabbered and grunted, and played
+their antics, and exchanged grimaces, as complacently as if they
+breathed a highly exhilarating atmosphere.
+
+My meditations and observations were shortly interrupted by preparations
+for a meal. The chief's better half--or rather fifth part, for he had
+four wives--superintended the culinary operations, which were as rude
+and simple as the hut where they were carried on. And now my fancy began
+to conjure up visions of the beef, fowls and eggs, the promise of which
+had lured my men from the boat,--had proved stronger than the
+suggestions of prudence, and had made me a prisoner. But these dainties,
+if they existed anywhere within the chief's jurisdiction, were just at
+present reserved. The old hag threw down from the top of one of the
+stakes that supported the tent the quarter of some animal; whether dog,
+guanaco, or whatever, was past imagining. She slashed right and left,
+with might and main, an old copper knife, till it was divided into
+several pieces. Then taking a number of crotched sticks, about two feet
+long, and sharpened at all their points, she inserted the forked ends
+into pieces of the meat, and drove the opposite points into the ground
+near the fire; which, though sufficient to smoke and comfortably _warm_
+the mess, was too feeble to roast it. At all events, time was too
+precious, or their unsophisticated appetites were too craving, to wait
+for such an operation; and the raw morsels were quickly snatched from
+the smoke, torn into bits by her dirty hands, and thrown upon the ground
+before us. The Indians seized them with avidity, and tossed a bit to me;
+but what could I do with it? I should have had no appetite for the
+dinner of an alderman at such a time and place; but as for tasting meat
+that came in such a questionable shape, there was no bringing my teeth
+or resolution to it. While eying it with ill-suppressed disgust, I
+observed the savages, like a horde of half-starved dogs, devouring their
+portions with the greatest relish; seizing the fragments with their fine
+white teeth, at the same time clenching them with their hands, and
+giving every sign of enjoyment _except_ what one is accustomed to see in
+human beings. The old chief remarked the slight I was putting upon his
+hospitality, and broke in upon me with a fierce _Por que usted, no munge
+usted, usted carna? Esta carna mucho bueno hombre por munge, se hombre,
+munge!_ "Why don't you eat your meat? This meat very good to eat,--very
+good to eat. Eat, man! eat!" I may here observe that my knowledge of
+Spanish, like the chief's, was colloquial; picked up here and there in
+voyages to South American ports, which may account for my orthography
+being so plainly determined by the ear rather than by any rules of
+Castilian grammar. Seeing him so much excited, and not knowing what
+deeds might follow his words if I refused, I thought it expedient to
+_try_ to "eat what was set before me, asking no questions;" thinking,
+moreover, that if there were any evil spirit in it that the fire had
+failed to expel, it could not possibly have resisted the smoke. So,
+being sorely divided between aversion to the "strange flesh" and fear of
+showing it, I forced a morsel into my mouth. Its taste was by no means
+as offensive as its appearance had been unpromising, and I managed to
+save appearances with less disgust than I had feared. This was my first
+meal with the savages, and a sample of many others; though better viands
+afterwards varied their monotony, now and then.
+
+The eating being over, a large horn, that had once adorned the head of a
+Spanish bullock, was dipped into a leathern bucket and passed from one
+to another. Between the bucket and the horn, the fluid had gained a
+flavor not found by Adam in his first brewing, and, indeed, not far from
+nauseating. However, it seemed expedient to "conquer my prejudices" so
+far as to drink with the other guests, and the ceremonies of dinner were
+over; for which, "with all other mercies," I felt thankful, and turned
+to my corner near the expiring fire, to chew the cud of sweet and bitter
+fancies, in which the latter ingredient decidedly predominated. The
+strange and sudden desolateness of my condition, the doubtful chances of
+escape, the possible sufferings before me, the uncertainty that rested
+on the designs of my savage captors, all rushed upon my mind, and
+suggested to my heated imagination a host of terrors.
+
+These painful thoughts were interrupted by an order to prepare for the
+night's repose. An old skin, about two and a half feet square, was
+thrown upon the cold ground in the back part of our rookery, and
+assigned for my couch; I took possession accordingly, and the whole
+family bestowed themselves in a row near me. The stifling atmosphere was
+soon vocal with their snoring. My brain was too busy for sleep. Feverish
+fancies kept me wakeful. I revolved a variety of plans for escape. Could
+I steal out of the hut unperceived? Could I find my way to the shore? I
+doubted the first, and more than doubted the second; and even if so far
+successful, there was no boat to take me from the accursed land. And how
+could I conceal myself from the Indians till a boat should arrive? They
+would miss me; and, long before any possible communication with my
+vessel, would be hunting me down with horses and dogs. Not a wood or
+thicket had met my eye on the dreary waste I traversed the day before. I
+tried to devise some other plan, but none offered itself. It was this or
+nothing,--and this was next to nothing. Grown desperate, at last, I
+determined to make an effort.
+
+After lying some time, listening to the heavy breathing of the sleepers,
+and satisfying myself that none of the company were awake, I raised
+myself as noiselessly as possible, and stole towards the front of the
+wigwam. Casting a furtive glance backward, I could see that the old
+chief was restless; either he had feigned sleep, or some evil spirit had
+waked him just at the wrong time. To go immediately back would too
+plainly betray my purpose; so I walked very calmly and deliberately into
+the open air, and stood as if star-gazing; the old fellow, as I plainly
+perceived, all the time watching me from the lodge. In a short time I
+walked quietly back to my dark retreat, and found him where I had left
+him, lying very coseyly, as if nothing had happened to disturb his
+slumbers. Once more stretching myself on my uneasy couch, I lay two
+hours or more, still revolving the same unsolved problem in my mind. At
+length, all appearing to be sound asleep, I decided to venture a second
+attempt; and, in the event of failure, to make the best of it for the
+present. Stealthily as possible I crawled from among them, slid out of
+doors, and crouched upon the grass. Could I be mistaken? No--those
+infernal eyes were fastened on me as before! There was no eluding their
+vigilance. At this moment a howling as of a hundred wolves was heard
+approaching, and about that number of dogs came rushing, pell-mell,
+towards me. I scampered for the wigwam as fast as my feet could carry
+me, and in my flight stumbled over a stick nearly eight feet long. I
+seized the weapon thus kindly lent me, and, swinging it furiously about
+me, gave all intruders that came within my reach a sufficient touch of
+its quality. Thus defending myself from the brutes, I backed towards the
+lodge, glad to shelter myself among its detested inmates. The cunning
+old Parosilver, as before, had bestowed himself on the ground among his
+squaws and dirty children, and was, apparently, fast asleep.
+
+This was more than I could compass. Vexation at my fruitless attempts to
+escape,--dread, inspired by the relentless vigilance and quiet assurance
+of the chief,--tormenting apprehensions as to the issue of any effort on
+the morrow to effect my ransom,--all kept my brain upon the rack, and
+effectually drove sleep from my eyes, till near daylight, when I fell
+into a disturbed slumber. In my dreams I was at once transported from
+the savage hut, on board my vessel. Methought she was driving before the
+wind, all sails set, at full speed, upon a dangerous reef. All on board
+seemed insensible of the danger; I alone perceived it, but a nightmare
+spell was on me, and my lips refused to speak, my limbs to move. Rooted
+to my place on the deck, I stood in dumb agony, while our vessel rushed
+upon her fate. There came a sudden shock,--our bark had struck, and her
+total destruction was inevitable. Some of the men were dashed violently
+upon the deck, others precipitated into the boiling surf, where they
+clung desperately to spars, and fragments of the wreck. While the
+confusion was wildest, and the dream of effort for escape was subsiding
+into the calmness of despair, I suddenly awoke, and for some time was
+unable to comprehend where I was, or how I came there. If I were indeed
+shipwrecked, I was also, like Jonah, vomited upon dry land. I drew my
+hand across my eyes to assure myself that vision was unobstructed, cast
+my eyes right and left;--the lodge, the ashes of the last night's fire,
+the chief and his motley family, the door through which the "lubber
+fiend" had followed me with his restless eyes, and into which the fierce
+dogs had driven me, recalled my distracted senses, and restored
+consciousness of a reality which, at the moment, I would almost have
+exchanged for the wildest terrors of my dream.
+
+With the light calmer thoughts succeeded, and I once more addressed
+myself to the task of effecting my escape. The first thing was to get
+the chief with me to the shore, in readiness to meet a boat, and to
+renew negotiations for my liberty. Observing that he was awake, I began
+to promise him an abundant supply of the articles most tempting to his
+fancy, on condition of my release. He carelessly replied that he would
+go with me to the beach by and by. I tried to urge his departure, being
+anxious to go without the rabble at his heels the day before, but for
+whose violence he would now hardly be master of me; but there was no
+hurrying his movements. He took down his little cutlass, drew it from
+its brazen scabbard, and commenced sharpening it with a rusty file,
+trying its edge with his fingers as the work went on, and casting side
+glances at me the while. Whether this ceremony was the preface to some
+act of violence he meditated, or a scene for effect, to fill me with a
+wholesome dread of his power, I could not guess; but, determined to show
+no foolish fears, I thought it best to put a bold face upon the matter,
+and make an equally striking demonstration of courage and presence of
+mind, qualities which savages generally appreciate. I therefore
+approached him, tried the edge with my own fingers, praised the beauty
+of the instrument, and interested myself in the process of sharpening
+it. Following up my assault on his vanity, I extolled him as one of the
+best of men, and assured him that when we got to the shore I would amply
+reward him for his kindness to me; taking occasion, however, to throw in
+a hint on the vast importance of starting early. This I enforced by the
+suggestion that, when he got his good things, the fewer there were
+present, the fewer claimants there would be to divide the spoils.
+
+After much coaxing, he started after his old horse; I mounted behind
+him, and we moved slowly off. When we arrived at the shore it was
+blowing a perfect gale. A boat could not live in the billows. All three
+vessels had dragged their anchors, and lay at some distance from their
+anchorage of yesterday. Bark Hebe appeared to be dragging towards the
+Orange Bank, a dangerous shoal. I afterwards learned that the Hebe,
+after getting into water as shoal as would barely float her, slipped her
+cables, put up a little sail, and finally succeeded in weathering the
+shoal and getting safely out to sea. The J. B. Gager was dragging in the
+same direction. My own vessel was holding on better than the others,
+and I hoped she would ride out the gale in safety.
+
+I made my captors understand the reason why no boat had come, as
+promised; with which they appeared to be satisfied, and we returned as
+we came. By means of their broken Spanish, which they had picked up from
+sailors, and in visits to the Chilian or other Spanish American
+settlements, and by signs, amounting at times pretty nearly to a
+pantomime, I found myself able to understand inquiries or commands, and
+to make known my wishes.
+
+Early on the following morning we again visited the shore, and I looked
+eagerly toward the anchorage, where all my hopes of deliverance centred.
+Not a vessel was in sight! Whether they had foundered, or were driven
+upon the shoal and wrecked, or had dragged out to sea in a disabled
+condition,--or whether my shipmates, the gale having subsided, had
+deliberately proceeded on their voyage, and left me a prey to cruel
+savages and all the ills of this inhospitable shore,--I was unable to
+conjecture. I only knew that they were gone, and that I was left alone
+to the tender mercies of the Patagonians. No present means of escape
+appeared. The future, wisely hidden from my view, suggested none to my
+imagination. I told my captors the worst; that the high winds had
+probably sunk the ships, and all that were in them. At this intelligence
+they seemed delighted, and laughed immoderately, as if such a calamity
+were a consolation for the loss of their expected ransom. Their cruel
+glee could add nothing to the weight of my desolation. My past life was
+sealed up as if by an entrance on a new state of being. I looked round
+on a bleak and cheerless region, and forward on a life as barren of
+human joy, made up of every species of suffering,--hunger, cold,
+fatigue, insult, torture,--liable to be cut short at any moment by the
+caprice of my tormentors, and so wretched that death itself, with all
+the enormities of cannibalism, lost its terrors by comparison. Life, for
+any good or great purposes to be achieved, was over. And then my
+thoughts turned to far different scenes,--to happy faces, and pleasant
+voices, and familiar sights;--to hearts that beat with no dread of this
+day's calamities, felt no consciousness kindred to my despair, but
+would, in due time, be rudely awakened from their security. GOD help me,
+for I am helpless now!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     A proposal to go to Port Famine negatived--"Holland"--Discovery of
+     vessels in the straits--Double disappointment--A crisis--Survey of
+     Patagonia--Scanty vegetation--Animals and birds--Climate--The
+     people--Their habits and character--Domestic
+     relations--Weapons--Government--Superstition--Cannibalism--Their
+     reputation abroad.
+
+
+Returning to the encampment, it remained to devise some new way of
+escape. Some four or five days' ride to the westward would bring us to
+Port Famine, on the straits, a penal settlement of Chili, and the only
+settlement in the vicinity by which I could hope to reenter the
+civilized world. A journey thither was suggested to the Indians, as the
+most likely way of turning my captivity to profitable account; but they
+refused with a promptness and decisiveness which was rather
+unaccountable, till I afterwards learned that they had lately visited
+that part of the country on a horse-stealing expedition, in which their
+success had been too good to make them desirous of showing their faces
+there at present. Money, guns, pistols, cutlasses, brass, beads, and
+everything else that could be thought of to tempt their cupidity, were
+offered. I was not disposed to be niggard of promises; but in vain. To
+Port Famine they were determined _not_ to go; but old Parosilver assured
+me, by way of compensation, that he would take me to "Holland," which
+was a "much better place." Whereabout on terra firma this South American
+Holland was situated,--if, indeed, there was any such place, and the
+chief was not indulging in a little extra lying,--was past all
+conjecture. I inquired the distance. He could not tell exactly. Was it
+inhabited by Americans or English? There were "twenty or thirty white
+men there, and plenty of rum and tobacco." They promised to start with
+me towards Holland the next day. In what direction? They pointed towards
+the Atlantic. Well, I cared little where it was, or who lived there,
+provided only they were not Patagonians, and I could once get free of
+these rascals. But on the following morning the migration was postponed,
+in consequence of unexpected tidings.
+
+One of the tribe, who had been down to the shore, reported that my
+vessel had come back. This welcome, though rather improbable
+information, started me, with about a dozen of them, on the track of his
+story. On gaining a view of the straits, a vessel was plainly in sight,
+but it was a strange sail. Yet, if I could succeed in boarding her, my
+purposes would be answered. She came into the bight of the bay, and
+anchored about fifteen miles below us. I endeavored to make my smutty
+companions comprehend that as the tide was then running out they would
+not make the shore till it turned, which would not be till night. They
+waited till near night, when hunger and thirst wore out their patience,
+and they ordered me off with them. Against this untimely mandate I
+warmly remonstrated, and after some dispute it was arranged that the
+chief should stay with me for the night. The rest returned to their
+encampment, and we made a good fire, which was kept up till nearly
+morning. Old Parosilver lay down under the lee of a clump of bushes,
+while I was busy in active exercise to keep warm, and replenishing the
+fire with dry bushes. At dusk I had observed the vessel hoisting sail,
+and beating up the bay. On this I began brandishing firebrands to
+attract notice, and walked to and fro on the beach for hours. The craft
+gradually approached, till her white canvas became distinguishable
+through the surrounding gloom. Fresh fuel was heaped on the fire, a
+bright blaze ascended; I took my station directly in front of it,
+holding out my coat, and frequently turning round, that my form and
+features might be more distinctly revealed. And now a thrill of joy
+electrified me, as I saw a light set on deck, which appeared to be
+stationary. There could be no doubt that the vessel had come to anchor
+directly opposite to us. Though hungry and weary with long watching, I
+hurried about, and gathered sticks and leaves in abundance to kindle a
+still brighter beacon-fire, in whose light and warmth anxiety began to
+expand into hope. At dawn of day, as the horizon lighted up, I could
+distinguish the vessel lying about a mile off, quiet as a sea-fowl on
+the calm surface. Presently there was a movement on deck, the anchor was
+hove up, the fore and main sails were hoisted, and the object on which
+my hopes and ardent prayers had centred through the cold night receded
+from view through the straits, bound, doubtless, for California. I
+watched the fast-vanishing sail with tearful eyes; and the old chief,
+who had been on the look-out, started for his horse, that had been
+hampered and turned out to crop among the scanty vegetation.
+
+Before I had time to recover from the first revulsion of disappointment
+and grief, _another_ vessel, a topsail schooner, came in by Point
+Dungeness. "Cheer up," I said to myself; "the sun will be shining, the
+darkness have given place to the clear day, before this vessel can be up
+and opposite to us." Confident of being noticed, I began active
+preparations for the approaching visitor. No rod of sufficient length
+was to be found; but, after some search, a number of short crooked
+sticks were collected. To lash them together, I tore up my drawers,
+which I could ill afford, and appropriated my shoe-strings. My flannel
+shirt was hoisted as a flag; and having replenished the fire, I paced
+the beach with colors flying, but, as the vessel approached, with
+increasing faintness of heart; for the wind gradually shifted, so that
+she could only take advantage of it by heading towards Terra del Fuego.
+At last she came opposite, but so near the further shore that the
+chances of success diminished every moment. Dark objects moved on the
+deck,--fancy painted them as men;--would they not discover me through
+their glasses, and be drawn by my signal of distress? No; onward she
+floated away,--the narrows were soon passed, and my vision of
+deliverance was dissipated.
+
+With this final death-blow to all present hopes of relief, I turned away
+in despair. Exhausted by hunger, cold and fatigue, and worn out by hours
+of anxiety, I fell helpless upon the ground, and wept like a child. For
+the first time I felt _utterly_ forsaken, and repined at my lot as one
+of unmitigated evil. Effort seemed useless; I had neither resolution nor
+strength to make further exertion. There was nothing for me but listless
+endurance. I even reproached myself that I had not cast myself into the
+sea, and staked my life on the chance of swimming to the schooner.
+There was no possibility of doing this; but failure would have been
+_only_ death, and what was life worth to me here? This tempest of
+self-reproach soon spent itself. My temperament is too buoyant to be
+long depressed, and calm and stout thoughts took the place of despairing
+weakness. It was unmanly, something whispered within me, thus to give
+way before difficulties. It would be time enough to do this when all
+possible effort had failed. The weak and imbecile might take refuge in
+despair, but the strength of youth should serve me better. I called to
+mind examples of courage in greater emergencies, when obstacles that
+seemed insurmountable had been conquered by fortitude and perseverance.
+"Heaven helps those who help themselves." The more I reflected on the
+matter, the stronger grew the impulses of faith and courage, by whose
+force it seemed possible to win a triumph against the greatest odds.
+Before rising from the earth, my resolution was fully taken to throw
+discouragement to the winds; by the help of God to meet whatever
+impended with the courage of a man; to bear my calamities with patient
+endurance; and to give up hope and energy only when nothing was left to
+be attempted, or the power to do and suffer was exhausted.
+
+I rose a new man,--my strength invigorated, my soul fortified by a
+strong purpose. Though the cold night air had thoroughly chilled my
+frame, it now felt a warmth kindled by the fires within, and an
+unaccustomed flush suffused my countenance. The resolve fixed in this
+memorable crisis of my captivity, though severely tested, was never
+wholly overborne. Henceforth, the events and scenes through which I
+passed were viewed with a calmness that had been before unattainable,
+and which is now scarcely credible, on recollection. So true is it that
+our strength is unknown to ourselves till it is thoroughly tested.
+
+The hope of immediate release, however, was at an end; my savage
+captors, it seemed, must be looked upon as for an indefinite period my
+masters and companions; and I had nothing at present to do but to divert
+myself by a study of their manners and habits; to consult my safety by a
+close study of their character, and of the ways and means by which so to
+adapt my deportment to it as to win their confidence, to disarm
+hostility, and to seize opportunities.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Patagonia, as it offered itself to my observation, more than answered
+the descriptions of geographers,--bleak, barren, desolate, beyond
+description or conception,--only to be appreciated by being seen. Viewed
+from the Straits of Magellan, it rises in gentle undulations or
+terraces. Far as the eye can reach, in a westerly direction, it assumes
+a more broken and hilly appearance, and long ranges of mountains,
+extending from north to south, divide the eastern from the western
+shore. The soil is of a light, sandy character, and bears nothing worthy
+the name of a tree. Low bushes, or underwood, are tolerably abundant,
+and in the valleys a coarse, wiry grass grows luxuriantly. Streams of
+water are rare. The natives draw their supplies principally from springs
+or pools in the valleys, the water of which is generally brackish and
+disagreeable.
+
+The variety of animal is nearly as limited as that of vegetable
+productions. The guanaco, a quadruped allied to the lama, and with some
+resemblance to the camelopard, is found in considerable numbers. It is
+larger than the red deer, fleet on the foot, usually found in large
+herds, frequenting not only the plains, but found along the course of
+the Andes. Its flesh is a principal article of food; its skin is dried
+with the hair on, in such a manner that, when wet, it retains its
+pliability and softness. This process of preserving skins seems to be
+peculiar to the Indian tribes, and is not unlike that by which
+buffalo-robes, bear-skins, buckskins, and other articles of luxury, and
+even necessity, among us, are prepared by the North American Indians.
+Guanaco-skins are cut into pieces of all sizes, and sewed into a
+thousand fanciful patterns, every workman originating a style to suit
+himself. The hoofs are sometimes turned to account by the natives as
+soles for shoes, when they indulge in such a luxury, which is not often.
+
+The enemy of the guanaco is the cougar, or "American lion," smaller than
+its African namesake, and more resembling the tiger in his character and
+habits, having a smooth, sleek coat, of a brownish yellow
+color,--altogether a very beautiful but ferocious creature. His chase is
+a favorite, though rare and dangerous, sport of the natives. Patagonia
+likewise boasts of the skunk, whose flesh is used for food. There are
+also foxes, and innumerable mice. Of birds, the only noticeable
+varieties are the condor, in the Andes, and the cassowary, a species of
+ostrich, smaller than that of Africa, on the plains; its plumage is not
+abundant, generally of a gray or dun color. Its flesh is tender and
+sweet, and with the fat much prized by the Indians. Like the African
+ostrich, it is exceedingly swift, only to be captured on horseback, and
+often fleet enough to outrun the fastest racer.
+
+The climate is severe. The Rio Negro forms the northern boundary, and
+nearly the whole country is south of the parallel of 40 degree south
+latitude. At the time of my capture, which was in the month of May, the
+weather corresponded to that of November in the New England States. Its
+chilliness, however, was greatly increased by the bleak winds of that
+exposed locality. Along the Straits of Magellan the weather is also
+exceedingly changeable. Sudden and severe squalls, often amounting
+almost to a hurricane, vex the navigation of the straits, and sweep over
+the coast with fearful fury.
+
+The habits of the Patagonians, or at least of the tribe among whom I was
+cast, are migratory, wandering over the country in quest of game, or as
+their caprice may prompt them. They subsist altogether on the flesh of
+animals and birds. The guanaco furnishes most of their food, and all
+their clothing. A mantle of skins, sewed with the sinews of the ostrich,
+fitting closely about the neck and extending below the knee, is their
+only article of dress, except in the coldest weather, when a kind of
+shoe, made of the hind hoof and a portion of the skin above it, serves
+to protect their inferior extremities.
+
+In person they are large; on first sight, they appear absolutely
+gigantic. They are taller than any other race I have seen, though it is
+impossible to give any accurate description. The only standard of
+measurement I had was my own height, which is about five feet ten
+inches. I could stand very easily under the arms of many of them, and
+all the men were at least a head taller than myself. Their average
+height, I should think, is nearly six and a half feet, and there were
+specimens that could have been little less than seven feet high. They
+have broad shoulders, full and well-developed chests, frames muscular
+and finely proportioned, the whole figure and air making an impression
+like that which the first view of the sons of Anak is recorded to have
+made on the children of Israel. They exhibit enormous strength, whenever
+they are sufficiently aroused to shake off their constitutional laziness
+and exert it. They have large heads, high cheek-bones, like the North
+American Indians, whom they also resemble in their complexion, though it
+is a shade or two darker. Their foreheads are broad, but low, the hair
+covering them nearly to the eyes; eyes full, generally black, or of a
+dark brown, and brilliant, though expressive of but little intelligence.
+Thick, coarse, and stiff hair protects the head, its abundance making
+any artificial covering superfluous. It is worn long, generally divided
+at the neck, so as to hang in two folds over the shoulders and back, but
+is sometimes bound above the temples, by a fillet, over which it flows
+in ample luxuriance. Like more civilized people, the Patagonians take
+great pride in the proper disposition and effective display of their
+hair. Their teeth are really beautiful, sound and white,--about the only
+attractive and enviable feature of their persons. Feet and hands are
+large, but not disproportionate to their total bulk. They have deep,
+heavy voices, and speak in guttural tones,--the worst guttural I ever
+heard,--with a muttering, indistinct articulation, much as if their
+mouths were filled with hot pudding. Their countenances are generally
+stupid, but, on closer inspection, there is a gleam of low cunning that
+flashes through this dull mask, and is increasingly discernible on
+acquaintance with them; when excited, or engaged in any earnest
+business that calls their faculties into full exercise, their features
+light up with unexpected intelligence and animation. In fact, as one
+becomes familiar with them, he will not fail to detect an habitual
+expression of "secretiveness" and duplicity, which he will wonder he did
+not observe sooner. They are almost as imitative as monkeys, and are all
+great liars; falsehood is universal and inveterate with men, women and
+children. The youngest seem to inherit the taint, and vie with the
+oldest in displaying it. The detection of a falsehood gives them no
+shame or uneasiness. To these traits should be added a thorough-paced
+treachery, and, what might seem rather inconsistent with their other
+qualities, a large share of vanity, and an immoderate love of praise.
+They are excessively filthy in their personal habits. Hydrophobia, so to
+speak, is a prevailing distemper; they never wash themselves. Hands and
+faces are covered with dirt, so thick, and of such ancient deposit, that
+their natural color only appears in spots, laid bare by the mechanical
+loosening and displacement of some of the strata, which curiously
+variegates the surface. It is hardly necessary to remark that such a
+condition of the skin is highly favorable to the increase and
+multiplication of "the moving creature that hath life," wherewith their
+persons are abundantly peopled.
+
+The women are proportionally smaller than the men, and rather inclined
+to embonpoint. The old chief had four wives, though he had probably
+never heard of Mahomet or his domestic laws. The rest of the tribe had
+only one wife apiece. The women erect the wigwams, provide fuel and
+cook,--if the operation should be dignified with that name,--in short,
+all the drudgery falls to their lot. They are treated as slaves, but
+made, in most respects, as comfortable in their servitude as the
+condition of their rude masters will admit. When, however, their lords
+are excited by gambling, or enraged for any or no cause, the fury of
+passion is visited upon their defenceless heads, which they bear
+uncomplainingly, with a meek submissiveness worthy of better treatment.
+They are passionately fond of trinkets and clumsy ornaments, such as
+bits of brass and copper, beads, and the like, which they wear suspended
+from their necks. A few of them had their ears pierced, and wore brass
+or copper ear-rings; and many of them decked out their children with
+similar rude finery, which is valued more than anything else, except
+rum, tobacco and bread. The men paint or bedaub their faces and breasts
+with a kind of red earth. Charcoal is also used as a cosmetic. A broad
+line of red alternating with a stripe of black, in various fantastic
+figures, is a favorite style of decoration. The women make themselves,
+if possible, still more hideous, by the application of a pigment made of
+clay, blood and grease. Some of them would be very comely, if only
+cleanly, and content to leave nature less strenuously adorned.
+
+The people are as deficient in the morals as in the refinements and
+courtesies of domestic life; their licentiousness is equal to their
+cruelty,--the filth of their persons only too faithfully represents the
+degree in which "their mind and conscience is defiled." I saw no person,
+of either sex, that appeared to have attained advanced age, though it
+was difficult to judge of this. The oldest Indian I remember to have
+seen did not seem to be above sixty.
+
+Their only wealth, aside from their huts, consists of horses, the stock
+of which is frequently replenished by stealing from the Spanish and
+Chilian settlements. These animals are, for the most part, of small size
+and inferior quality, half wild, coated with coarse, shaggy hair--lean
+and woe-begone enough, just "fit for the crows." A few valuable
+specimens of a superior breed are found among them, doubtless "conveyed"
+there. The rude saddles in use among them are mostly of Spanish origin,
+obtained at the settlements. They consist each of two boards, an inch
+thick, six inches wide, and two feet long, rounded at the corners so as
+to fit the horse's back, and united by two strips of board passing
+across the back-bone, the several pieces lashed together with leather
+strings. A piece of guanaco-skin often serves in default of a saddle.
+The steed is guided by a single rein, tied round the lower jaw; some of
+them sport a bit of iron or wood, secured by a string round the jaw,
+attaching the rein to this. Spurs, like the rest of their riding
+apparatus, are more efficient than elegant. They are indeed rude and
+cruel things,--straight sticks, six inches long, with a long, sharp iron
+inserted into the end, secured by a string or strap around the hollow of
+the foot, and tied at the top, a second strap nearer the heel, and a
+third passing round the heel. They are all agile and excellent horsemen.
+
+For weapons, the chief, and a few of the principal men, had cutlasses or
+swords. They had no fire-arms, nor could I learn that they understood
+their use; bows and arrows, spears and war-clubs, appeared to be equally
+unknown. All the men carried knives; and the _bolas_, a missile weapon
+used in the capture of all kinds of game. This consists of two round
+stones, or lead balls, if they can be procured weighing each about a
+pound, connected by a strap or thong of leather, ten or twelve feet
+long. When engaged in the chase, his horse at his highest speed, the
+rider holds one ball in his hand, and whirls the other rapidly above his
+head; when it has acquired sufficient momentum it is hurled with
+unerring aim at the object of pursuit, and either strikes the victim
+dead, or coils inextricably about him and roots him to the spot, a
+helpless mark for the hunter's knife.
+
+This tribe numbered about one thousand; the chief is the acknowledged
+head of the people. Whether his power was hereditary or elective, I
+could not learn; but incline to the belief that it was hereditary, as it
+appeared to be, in his theory at least, absolute. In all questions of
+importance his decision is final; yet his subjects take considerable
+liberty with his opinions, sometimes oppose his counsels, and even
+question his authority. On the appearance of such democratic symptoms,
+he sometimes finds it necessary to assert his sovereignty with spirit,
+and brandishes his cutlass smartly before their eyes.
+
+The habits of the people are not only filthy, but indolent to the last
+degree; exertion of body or mind is their greatest dread. They never go
+on a hunting expedition till there is nothing more to eat, nor even then
+till they feel the spur of extreme hunger. It sometimes happens that at
+such a crisis a storm comes on, which shuts them in; and it is no
+unfrequent occurrence for them, under such circumstances, to pass two or
+three days without tasting food. They learn nothing by experience; the
+same childish indolence and recklessness, followed by the same painful
+consequences, are continually recurring.
+
+Though their great size at first sight was fitted to inspire terror, it
+required no very long observation to discover that they were deficient
+in natural courage. This, in fact, might be inferred at once, from their
+habitual deceit, treachery and artifice, which are the defences of the
+weak and timorous, rather than the weapons of strong and daring natures.
+They always select the night to inflict injuries; never meet an enemy in
+open combat whom they can stab from behind, or despatch in the dark;
+and, when obliged to attack by day, always do so in large numbers. This
+defect of courage is increased by their superstition; they have great
+faith in charms, signs and omens, a weakness which I anticipated might
+exert great influence on my destiny in important conjunctures. Could I
+by any means so master their secret as to possess myself of its mystic
+power, it might prove an effective aid to my plans of self-defence, or
+of escape. Should it, on the other hand, be turned by any accidental
+causes against me, its impulse might prove irresistible by power or
+contrivance. There was no appearance of idolatrous worship among them,
+nor could I observe any allusion to a Supreme Being, or to any superior
+powers having personal attributes; and, except a single ceremony, of
+which more hereafter, the nature of which was and is still inexplicable,
+there was nothing that suggested to my mind the idea of religious
+worship. Whether they are cannibals or not, has been a matter of some
+dispute. So far as I know, they have been, heretofore, only casually
+observed on the beach by voyagers, or vaguely reported of by the people
+of adjoining countries and neighboring settlements; neither of which is
+a sufficiently reliable source of information. My own personal
+advantages on this head were greater; but I am obliged, after all, to
+leave the question about where I found it, so far as _certain_
+conclusions are concerned. Yet some circumstances occurred, or were
+related to me, that incline my mind strongly to the belief that such
+horrible practices are not unjustly ascribed to them. Of the soundness
+of my conclusions those who follow the course of the narrative will have
+the opportunity of judging for themselves; if such had been my
+persuasion at the beginning, it may be readily imagined what effect this
+last hazard would have had upon my feelings, in contemplating the
+possibilities of the future. Happily a convenient scepticism on this
+point preserved me from this dark apprehension.
+
+I came among these people not, certainly, with the best preparation in
+my previous habits and associations to endure either the climate of
+the country or the hardships of captivity. I went on shore in my usual
+ship's dress; thick frock coat, trousers, and shoes, and glazed cap.
+My under-garments were woollen; though an important item, as before
+related, was made way with in fruitlessly signalling vessels in the
+straits. But to live without any change of dress, to sleep without any
+additional covering, protected from the cold ground only by a fragment
+of guanaco-hide, and the other discomforts and exposures of life among
+savages, made, altogether, a harsh contrast to the comforts of our
+good schooner. To these, however, I gradually became inured, till I
+was able to meet cold and wet and storm with as stoical indifference
+as my dark companions, who had known no other lot from infancy.
+
+Of the character of the natives I had little previous knowledge; and
+that little was not adapted to stimulate curiosity, or prompt the least
+anxiety for more intimate acquaintance. It was derived mainly from
+whalers, in whom it seemed to have produced much the same degree of
+contentment,--a feeling that ignorance is bliss. Indeed, the greatest
+caution has always been employed by voyagers in regard to landing on
+these shores; many experienced seamen cannot be persuaded to land at
+all; trade with the natives is always carried on in boats off shore,
+frequently with loaded fire-arms constantly levelled, in readiness for
+action in case of emergency. But here I was, put forcibly to the study
+of their character in the school of dame Experience, and can testify to
+the truth of the saying that she charges roundly for tuition. Let the
+reader give me credit for the cheapness with which I put him in
+possession of what knowledge was purchased at so exorbitant a price.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Hard journey--Encampment--Division of the tribe--My new
+     guardian--Story of the capture of a British
+     vessel--Reunion--Gambling--Culinary arts--Hunting--Symptoms of
+     danger--Mutual deceptions--Tough yarns--The fatal ring--An
+     effective oration--Indecision of the Indians.
+
+
+The reader left me just rising from a half-stupor into which a double
+disappointment had thrown me, feverish with the excitement of new
+purposes and resolutions. The first aim was for some fresh water, to
+allay a burning thirst. After a long and unsuccessful search, I went
+deliberately to the beach and took a deep draught of the briny waves.
+Expecting that the chief would shortly return for me with a train of his
+followers, it occurred to me that I might secrete myself, though there
+was nothing certain to be gained by it, if I were successful, of which
+the probability was not great. With this object in view, I walked along
+close on the water's edge, that my footprints might be obliterated by
+the waves. After proceeding in this way for some distance, I left the
+shore, and started towards the interior, in quest of a place where I
+might dig a hole in the earth and cover myself with grass and bushes. I
+had gone but a little way inland, when, on ascending a slight eminence,
+whom should I meet, face to face, but the old chief and another of my
+tormentors! So the scheme came to nothing; but after others more
+feasible had so dolefully miscarried, it was not in human nature to lay
+this disappointment very deeply to heart. I made as though I was glad to
+see the old fellow, though, could I then have had my will of the
+savages, they would have been safely anchored in the middle of the
+straits. I told him (Heaven forgive me!) I was looking for them. The
+chief responded to my greeting only by ordering me to mount his horse. I
+requested leave to stay a little longer, and was refused. I again
+requested to be taken to Port Famine;--no, I should be taken to
+"Holland."
+
+I mounted behind him, and we travelled all day in the direction of Cape
+Virgin. For two days and nights I had eaten nothing, and drunk nothing
+but sea-water, and, in fact, had taken very little food for three days.
+We arrived about dark at an eminence commanding a view of their new
+squatting ground. Here we halted to take a short survey of the
+encampment. To them, doubtless, the prospect was beautiful; to me it was
+heart-sickening, but I strove to keep up cheerful appearances. Down in a
+valley or deep marshy hollow, covered with tall grass or rushes, an
+almost innumerable drove of horses were seen grazing; and beyond, at a
+short distance, the surface was thickly dotted with huts, erected, or in
+process of erection, by female architects. Children, in swarms like
+summer flies, and with no more artificial covering than those insects,
+were capering and shouting in high glee. At length we descended to the
+rude village; after tacking about, first to the right and then to the
+left, like a ship against a head wind, we came gallantly into town, and
+drew up at the chief's lodge. I was glad to dismount, sore with
+bestriding the skeleton of a horse.
+
+Here I again took the liberty of proposing a trip to Port Famine,
+offering to go alone, if they would not go with me. The chief told me,
+with emphasis, to say no more about it. He would take me to "Holland,"
+and there get rum and tobacco. "Only get me there," I said to myself,
+"and much good may your rum and tobacco do your old carcass!"
+
+On the third day of our encampment here the tribe was divided, and I was
+sent off with one of the chief's lieutenants. A more blood-thirsty
+rascal could not be found in the tribe. This step was probably taken by
+the chief to get rid of my importunities to visit Port Famine, the
+frequent renewal of which had evidently worried him. My new guardian
+regaled my ears, from time to time, with stories of his murderous
+exploits, most likely in order to instil into me a wholesome dread of
+his power, and a submissive temper under his authority. The details of
+his bloody yarns are too shocking to repeat. One story, on which he
+seemed to dwell with peculiar satisfaction, as it was confirmed by more
+reliable authority afterwards, I will here relate, with such other
+particulars as I gained by subsequent information.
+
+About two years before, the British brig Avon was in the Santa Cruz
+river. Captain Eaton, her commander, went on shore with his men, and
+bought some horses of the Indians, which he paid for in rum, tobacco and
+trinkets. After receiving their pay, they played the same trick as with
+me,--refused to deliver the horses. The captain was about getting under
+weigh, when the Indians, perceiving his intention to leave them, went
+down to the shore opposite the vessel, and beckoned him to come on
+shore, signifying that they would give up the horses, as agreed. The
+boat was sent ashore, and six or eight Indians returned in it to the
+brig. They surrounded the captain on the quarter-deck, and told him the
+horses were coming. He stepped to the rail with his glass, to observe
+motions on shore; while thus engaged, the savages came up behind, drew
+out their long knives, and stabbed him to the heart. He sunk lifeless on
+the rail, and fell upon the deck. Seizing him by the hair, and raising
+him partly on their knees, they cut his throat, and stabbed him again
+and again, to make the work of death sure. They then rushed upon the
+mate and stabbed him, but not mortally; he threw himself exhausted down
+the hatchway, and had just strength enough to secrete himself among the
+cargo. The boy was dealt with in the same manner as the captain, and one
+or two sailors, being wounded, succeeded, like the mate, in getting
+below deck and secreting themselves. The remainder of the crew were
+fortunately off in a boat at this time, and escaped the massacre. The
+savages ate and drank on board, and then plundered the brig of such
+articles as suited their fancy. Mr. Douglass, of "Holland," being on
+board the brig, was not murdered, but carried on shore and detained. A
+gentleman named Simms afterwards endeavored to effect the release of Mr.
+Douglass. He gave them all that they demanded as ransom, and was then
+himself detained to keep his friend company. A third embassy was
+undertaken by Mr. John Hall, of whom the reader will learn more
+hereafter. He paid a large ransom for his two friends, and was then
+served as they had been. He succeeded in effecting his escape the next
+day; but Douglass and Simms were carried off, murdered, and, it is
+supposed,--I believe with good reason,--that their bodies were eaten.
+The Avon, after being plundered, fell into the hands of the remainder of
+the crew, and sailed for Montevideo.
+
+I travelled with this ruffian about ten days. He was a hard master,
+though I cannot charge him with personal ill-treatment that amounted to
+cruelty. Our life was monotonous enough. We slept a good share of the
+time when we rested, drank pure water when we could get it, and ate what
+fell in our way; though the reader may be assured that we saw some
+hungry days. At the expiration of ten days, the tribe was reunited at a
+place agreed upon. Here we continued several days, the natives occupied
+exclusively with gambling, which was alike their daily labor and
+recreation. When the demands of hunger became too imperative to be
+longer postponed, they would go out and hunt, after which they resumed
+their games.
+
+Gambling is a vice to which they are greatly addicted, and they pursue
+it with a perseverance and ardor worthy of amateurs in more civilized
+communities. The implements used are bits of guanaco-skin, about the
+size of common playing-cards, on which are rudely depicted dogs and a
+variety of other beasts, with divers mystic marks and scrawls, done with
+a stick in a pigment composed of clay, blood and grease. Unlike their
+compeers in more enlightened circles, they put down stakes on only one
+side, for which the opposite players contend. In this way they rid
+themselves of their saddles, bridles, knives, and whatever other
+portable articles they may have to hazard. Nay, I have seen them
+inflamed to such a passion as to take the mantles from their women's
+shoulders, telling them to protect themselves from the cold as they
+could.
+
+But where was "Holland," all this time? They told me at first that we
+should be only four days reaching it, and already more than ten had
+passed. On inquiry, they said that the journey would be completed in six
+days; on we went, for _sixteen_ days more, with the same dull routine,
+the Indians assigning seven or eight days as the minimum time. The place
+seemed to be all the while receding. I had long since become aware that
+there was no truth in them; but persisted in questioning them, to call
+forth fresh lies, which they uttered with marvellous fluency, as if it
+were vastly easier than speaking the truth.
+
+After the reunion of the tribe, I implored the old chief to take me back
+to his lodge, and to his especial care; to which he consented, much to
+my satisfaction. With him I felt a kind of security unknown elsewhere;
+under God, I relied alone on his protection. He alone of the tribe had
+the power to defend me, and I spared no pains to secure his good-will.
+To this end, I made him large promises of such things as I thought would
+arouse his cupidity, or stimulate his appetites, as well as an abundance
+of ornaments for his wives and children, if he would only take me to
+some place inhabited by white people. This policy was extended to his
+household; disagreeable as the task was, I forced myself to caress his
+dirty children, and to tell them what pretty things I intended to give
+them. By these, and such-like demonstrations, I flattered myself it
+might be possible to keep on peaceable terms with old Parosilver, and
+enlist his authority for me, if circumstances should compel me to appeal
+to it.
+
+The reunited tribe remained in camp three or four days, dividing their
+time between gambling and hunting. When I accompanied the hunters, as I
+sometimes did, I was sure to get something to eat towards night, as they
+invariably kindled a fire and cooked part of the game on the spot where
+it was killed. Their method of preparing all meats was essentially the
+same as has been described; tossing large pieces into the fire, or
+suspending them over it, till they were somewhat smoked and dried, and
+then devouring them, without salt, or any other condiment but the sauce
+of hunger. Cooking the ostrich, however, forms an exception: the
+feathers are plucked out, the bones dissected and removed; hot stones
+are placed within the body, the skin is tightly sewed together, and the
+whole is partially roasted on the embers. The lacings are then cut, and
+the meat is served up; it has an excellent flavor, far surpassing that
+of the domestic turkey. The bird is covered with a layer of fat, half an
+inch thick, which is melted, and collects in the body, forming a
+condiment which is relished as the greatest luxury of Patagonian living.
+If any fragments of the repast remain, they are slung to the backs of
+the saddles, and so carried home, dangling at the horses' sides, till
+they are so begrimed with dust as to defy all conjecture as to their
+quality or origin. These choice morsels are proffered to the home
+department, are received with smiles of gratitude, and devoured with a
+gust sharpened by long abstinence. It was noticeable that the plumage of
+the ostrich, though beautiful, was not at all valued by the Indians;
+large quantities of the feathers are blown all over the country,
+without attracting the least regard, while men and women disfigure
+themselves with paint, and load their persons with the cheapest of all
+trumpery, brass and copper and beads, picked up from traders, or stolen.
+
+The hunting of the guanaco is not only their chief reliance for food,
+but a spirited amusement, conducted after a fashion peculiar alike to
+hunters and hunted. Patagonia, as before mentioned, has no trees, but is
+covered here and there, in patches, with a kind of under-brush of scrub
+growth, and the plains extend back for hundreds of miles from the
+Atlantic shore, like a vast rolling prairie. This affords a clear and
+excellent hunting-ground, with nothing to conceal the game, or hinder
+the pursuer, except now and then a clump of low bushes, or the tall
+grass of the marshes. Two to four hundred Indians on horseback,
+bare-headed, and with their skin mantles about them, and each having the
+bolas and his long knife tucked beneath his belt, the whole followed by
+an innumerable pack of dogs of every kind, down to curs of low degree,
+make up a hunting party; as far as the eye can reach, their gigantic
+forms, diminished by the distance, may be seen projected on the horizon,
+their long hair streaming in the wind. Presently a thickness is
+perceived in the air, and a cloud of dust arises,--a sure indication
+that a herd of guanacos has been beaten up, and is now approaching. All
+eyes are fixed intently on the cloud; it soon appears as if several
+acres of earth were alive, and in rapid motion. There is a herd of from
+five hundred to a thousand of these animals, infuriated, rushing forward
+at their utmost speed whatever direction they may chance to take, they
+follow in a straight line; and, as soon as their course is ascertained,
+the Indians may be seen running their horses at break-neck pace to plant
+themselves directly in the course of the living tide. As the game
+approach, the hunter puts spurs to his horse and rushes across their
+track. When within twenty or thirty yards, he jerks the bolas from his
+girdle, and, whirling it violently above his head, lets fly. The weapon
+usually strikes the head or neck of the animal, and winds itself about
+his fore-legs, bringing him to the ground. The hunter dismounts, cuts
+the victim's throat, remounts, and is again in pursuit. The whizzing
+missile, unerring in its aim, brings down another and another, till the
+party are satisfied with their chase and their prey. The dogs fall upon
+the poor animals, when helplessly entangled by the bolas, and often
+cruelly mangle them before the hunter has time to despatch them. Seldom
+does any one miss the game he marks. It is the height of manly ambition
+among them, the last result of their training, to excel in the chase.
+
+The sport being over, then comes the dressing of the meat. The body is
+split open, the entrails removed, the heart and large veins opened, to
+permit the blood to flow into the cavity. The Indians scoop up with
+their hands and eagerly drink the blood. When their thirst is satisfied,
+the remainder is poured into certain of the intestines selected for the
+purpose, to become (to their accommodating tastes) a luxury as highly
+prized as any surnamed of Bologna. The ribs are disjointed from the
+back-bone, and, with the head, discarded as worthless. The body is
+quartered, cutting through the skin; the quarters, tied together in
+pairs, are thrown across the horses' backs, and conveyed to the camp.
+Arrived at their wigwams, the chivalrous hunters never unlade their
+beasts, but lean upon the horses' necks till their wives come out and
+relieve them of the spoil. They then dismount, unsaddle their horses,
+and turn them loose.
+
+Whilst remaining at our present encampment, strong indications of
+dissatisfaction were apparent, which manifestly had reference to me.
+There was a large party that had always entertained hostile feelings
+towards me; and I now found it necessary to exert myself to the utmost
+to quell their discontent, by making large promises of presents to men,
+women and children, "due and payable" on arrival at some white
+settlement; also, by humoring their caprices, and flattering their
+vanity with the most honeyed words at my command. The reader, I hope,
+will not harshly judge of the deceptions which are here and elsewhere
+avowed in this narrative. I was placed in circumstances which, it seemed
+to me, made this a legitimate and necessary mode of self-defence. It was
+plain that my only way of escape would be by some negotiation for
+ransom, and the Indians had conceived expectations of very large profit
+to be made out of me. They were told, when we landed, that I was the
+captain of the ship,--an unfortunate error, but one that I could not
+repair. I was naturally looked upon as so much the more valuable
+hostage. My only resource was to act in character: to magnify my own
+importance, to increase their expectations, whenever I found myself
+sinking in the scale of their favor,--to make them feel, in short, that
+they had an immense interest in preserving my life, and getting me to
+"Holland," or some other white settlement, with the most convenient
+speed. And if some of the fictions appear gross, it is enough to say
+that they were such as seemed, at the time, to be adapted to the
+grossness of their apprehensions and desires, and to the most sure
+accomplishment of the purpose in view.
+
+Yet, so false-hearted and treacherous were they, that one could never be
+for a moment certain what impression was made. Liars in grain
+themselves, it was only natural for them to distrust every one else.
+Whenever I spoke, and especially when making promises, the old chief
+would look me steadily in the eye, as though piercing my inmost
+thoughts. But, in process of time, I so schooled myself to the exercise,
+that I could return his look and tell the toughest stories without
+blinking. Some of them were to the full as credible as those of
+Munchausen. It was constantly necessary to put memory and imagination to
+the rack, to call forth something new and astonishing wherewith to
+divert their fancy, and preoccupy their minds from meditating mischief
+against me, of which I had continual reason to be afraid. Secure against
+any detection of the plagiarism, I drew largely from the adventures of
+Sinbad the Sailor, the marvels of the Arabian Nights, and the cunning
+devices of Gil Blas, the materials of which served, when duly mixed with
+my own veritable experience, to excite their curiosity, if not to awaken
+awe and superstitious reverence. They would sit around me for hours, as
+eager as so many children, their eyes and ears all intent, while in
+broken Spanish, mixed with a few Indian phrases that had been grafted
+into my speech through the ear, aided by abundant gesticulations, that
+shadowed forth and illustrated whatever was obscure in expression, I
+spun yarns of no common length, strength and elasticity. Sometimes, in
+response to a general call from the company, the old chief at the end
+of some marvellous tale, would command me to tell it again. This was no
+easy task, considering the freaks which my imagination usually played,
+without restraint, in the progress of the narrative. In no long time,
+however, I learned to imitate the prudence of boys who turn down the
+leaves of their books, or of Indians who break down the shrubs and twigs
+along a new path, by taking special note of my deviations,--a sort of
+mental dog's-ear, or way-mark, interposed at the point of departure. It
+was not difficult to retrace the way at their bidding, and give them the
+whole journey, to its minutest turnings.
+
+The excitement and dissatisfaction which I had remarked and dreaded
+appeared to have died away, when one night I had startling evidence that
+it was still active. At the usual hour of rest, as I was expecting every
+moment to be ordered, like a dog, to my cold corner of the lodge, a
+gigantic, ill-favored fellow made his appearance, and exchanged, in an
+under tone, a few words with the chief. Without comprehending a word
+that was passing, I could see, by their significant glances, that the
+colloquy concerned me, and that it boded me no good. The giant soon
+disappeared. The chief sat a moment in silence, rose, and ordered me to
+follow him. To the question where he was taking me, no other answer was
+vouchsafed than "Come along!" We had proceeded but a short distance when
+I observed a group of Indians sitting in a circle on the earth. The
+sight almost froze my blood. The most dismal apprehensions seized upon
+me. There needed no wizard to tell the import of the scene. The _fatal
+ring_, so much to be dreaded by those who are cast upon the tender
+mercies of savages, was set for me. The suddenness of it aggravated the
+blow. It almost paralyzed thought, and arrested my powers of motion.
+The catastrophe of the tragedy, I thought, is at hand, unless arrested
+by the interposition of a higher power. In my way to the dreaded spot I
+sent up a silent supplication that He whose eye marked all my footsteps,
+and whose power was all-sufficient for my protection against utmost
+peril, would keep me in that hour of my "extremity," and make it,
+according to the proverb, His "opportunity."
+
+Arrived at the ring, I found the Indians squatting on the ice and snow
+awaiting us, with their cutlasses and large knives tucked under their
+blankets,--weapons they never carry except when they expect to use them.
+I was ordered within, and seated myself as near as possible to the
+chief. They presently began talking in rotation, as they sat, in their
+own tongue. Their words were mainly unintelligible; but the deadly
+malice that flashed from the eyes, kindled in the features, and animated
+the gesticulations, of some of them, left no room to doubt the
+significance of their speech. A part of them were clamorous against my
+life, as they had constantly been. Others appeared to be irresolute, and
+said little; but, so far as could be discovered, no voice was raised in
+my favor. The chief spoke last,--I hung upon his lips, and anxiously
+scrutinized his face and action. I gathered that he was in favor of
+holding on a while longer, and using me as a decoy, to lure others
+within their power; reminding them of my promises,--the quantities of
+rum and tobacco they were to get from me, the trinkets destined for
+women and children. He was for getting the booty before cutting the
+matter short with me. His remarks evidently had great weight with the
+council, and exerted a soothing effect on all of them. At this point I
+thought it a meet season to impress upon their minds that I was of some
+consequence in the world, and asked leave to speak for myself, which was
+granted. Thereupon I launched forth in an oration, the chief acting as
+interpreter, and retailing it to the circle sentence by sentence:
+
+"Buenos Senores! Me mucho Grande Americano capitan, mismo commodant
+mucho mass, mucha barca, mucha galeta, muchos soldados, muchos
+marinarios. Me tene mucho mucho big guns, bastante poquito mismo
+bastante, cutlass, pistols mucho bastante. Vuestros hombres buenos per
+me, mi marinarios, mi soldados, buenos per vos. Othro corso usted malo
+rumpe me," &c. &c. &c. In such a jumble of Spanish, English and Indian,
+duly set off with grimace and gesture, I gave them to understand that
+they were dealing with no inferior personage, but with one who was at
+home as good as the president; one having at command abundance of
+steamships and sailing vessels of all sorts, with soldiers and mariners,
+big guns and little guns, pistols and cutlasses. That if they were good
+to me they would receive good from me and mine; but that, if they did me
+any harm, men would come from North America in numbers as incalculable
+as the hairs of their heads, and kill every mother's son of them.
+Furthermore, if they would take me to some white settlement, whether
+American, English, French or Spanish, I would order the white people to
+give them rum, tobacco, flour, rice, sugar and tea. _Of course_ the
+white men could do no less than obey, and they would thus be enabled to
+indulge themselves in luxuries almost without limit.
+
+It was evident, at a glance, that my speech was seasonable, and took
+effect in the right quarter. Their eyes stood out with wonder, and the
+sternness of their countenances was relaxed. They acquiesced in the
+proposal to postpone final action for the present, and see what could be
+made out of me before doing their worst. In a few days, they said, they
+would take me to "Holland;" but, no matter what time was limited, that
+"undiscovered country" seemed continually further off,--"a name" without
+any "local habitation." Their conduct in this was determined, as I was
+afterwards assured, by the fact that they were entirely undecided what
+to do with me. They longed for the good things I had told them of, and
+their greedy appetites could only be satisfied by taking me to a white
+settlement. On the other hand, they were painfully suspicious that I
+meant to give them the slip, and dreaded the result of bringing me into
+the vicinity of any settlement; while, at the same time, my
+grandiloquent assumptions and lofty threats made them shrink from the
+thought of doing me serious harm. The big guns and little guns greatly
+disturbed their imaginations. In short, I seemed to them an ugly
+customer--bad to keep, and bad to get rid of. They temporized,
+therefore, promised and hesitated, and postponed, and promised again.
+There was no use in trying to hurry their movements. So I gave them line
+upon line, seeking every opportunity to deepen the troublesome
+impression that they assumed a mighty responsibility when they made me a
+prisoner, and that their welfare depended greatly on the issue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Corey Inlet--Another disappointment--A hunting frolic with an
+     unpleasant termination--Moving of the camp--Aimless
+     wanderings--Alarm--A marriage treaty and an unsuccessful
+     suitor--Laws of marriage--Qualifications of a husband--Feminine
+     quarrels--A marriage in high life--Dressing
+     meat--Profaneness--Absence of religious ideas--Mysterious
+     ceremony--Reasons for abstaining from religious instruction--The
+     metals--State of the arts in Patagonia--Tailoring--Fashion.
+
+
+The next move of the tribe brought us within about a mile of Corey
+Inlet. The day after we halted, in full view of the south Atlantic, on
+looking out upon the water, two masts were plainly descried, evidently
+those of some vessel running down to this inlet. On going up an
+elevation commanding a better view, it proved to be a topsail schooner.
+She had undoubtedly mistaken this false cape for Cape Virgin, at the
+entrance of the Straits of Magellan. I pointed out the vessel to the
+Indians, and requested them to take me to the shore, that I might, if
+possible, communicate with her and be ransomed. After some delay, they
+complied; but, as we approached the beach, she was seen suddenly to haul
+off the shore and stand down the coast, having probably found out her
+mistake. We made all possible haste to gain the beach before she could
+have time to pass out of sight. I mounted a tall cliff, where I could
+distinctly see the men on deck, and, standing on the horse's back,
+waved my jacket, and made every possible demonstration to attract their
+notice. All in vain. The little vessel sailed steadily on, as if in
+mockery of my hopes. I watched her receding figure with an aching heart,
+till she vanished from sight. Thoughts of home and its familiar circle,
+of lost enjoyments, and of the suffering that must be a guest there, had
+long tantalized my sleeping and embittered my waking dreams. These were
+quickened and concentrated in a burning focus, by the light of such a
+vision from the world of my past existence, only to inflict the keener
+torture upon my sensibilities. My situation became more intolerable by
+every fresh disappointment. It was almost enough to drive me mad. Must
+I, then, give up all hope of rescue?
+
+A few minutes passed, and the tempest of feeling passed with them.
+Reflection convinced me that the indulgence of such feelings was not
+only useless, but actually pernicious, as tending to unfit me for
+rational and successful contrivance. My condition, truly, was dreadful;
+so much the more necessary was it to exercise the most calm and patient
+and self-possessed prudence, in order to devise and execute any purpose
+of escape. Like the surgeon who looks with steady nerve on the quivering
+frame subjected to his knife, I must nerve myself to look the gloomy
+problem of my lot, without shrinking, fully in the face, and keep my
+emotions, in all circumstances, strictly under the control of the
+calculating judgment; a maxim, like many others, much easier uttered now
+than to be thought of then, and far easier asserted than exemplified.
+Fully bent on effecting my deliverance in some way, to the discovery of
+which all possible ingenuity was to be directed, my resolutions of
+self-control were heroic enough. But to fulfil them,--to repress and
+disregard all those sympathies to which my whole being was bound,--this
+was indeed labor, too great, I often feared, to be accomplished. When
+the stress of inward conflict oppressed me, I would spring from my
+crouching-place in the lodge, rush into the open air, and seize upon
+every object that could in any degree divert attention and divide my
+thoughts. These exertions, with God's blessing, sufficed to restore, in
+some tolerable measure, the mental equilibrium, and to rescue me from
+the dominion of feelings the unrestrained action of which would have
+driven me to madness.
+
+During our stay of three or four days at this encampment, I had become
+so wearied with the monotony of their idleness, broken only by their
+desperate gambling,--the only thing, besides the chase, with which the
+Indians occupied themselves,--that for variety's sake, to divert my
+often-desponding moods, and to kill time, which hung heavily on my
+hands, I concluded to go out on a hunting frolic. Having procured a
+horse of the chief, and encased my lower extremities in a pair of native
+boots, much warmer than the ship shoes in which I had endured the cold,
+I set out with quite a party. We had gone six or eight miles, when I
+stopped for a short time, the rest of the troop riding off without
+regarding me. On remounting my charger, I put him to his utmost speed,
+in order to overtake them. While driving on at a furious rate, he
+stumbled and came to the ground, throwing his luckless rider over his
+head twenty feet or more, upon the hard, frozen ground. One ankle was
+severely sprained, and my whole body more or less bruised. So severe,
+indeed, was the shock, that I have occasional reminders of it to this
+day. No time was to be lost; and, with considerable effort, and no
+little pain, I succeeded in remounting. The swelling of my foot soon
+made my borrowed boots extremely uncomfortable, and I wished myself
+safely back at the lodge; but, at whatever expense of suffering, I had
+no resource but to follow the hunters till such time as they should see
+fit to return. The remembrance of that day's torment will not soon be
+lost. We arrived at the camp late in the evening; and, having been
+unsuccessful in the chase, went supperless to bed. On crawling into the
+hut and removing my boots, a sad sight was disclosed; but there was no
+present remedy. Dragging myself wearily into my corner, I had just
+crouched upon the skin, which had served for a saddle during the day and
+was still reeking from the horse's back, when a great dog came along,
+and threw his whole weight upon the lame foot, causing me to scream
+aloud for the pain. I drew back the serviceable foot, and gave him a
+kick that sent him through the fire and against the front of the lodge.
+Sleep kept at a distance till near morning, when I gained a brief
+oblivion of suffering.
+
+Day at last dawned, and with the morning's light came the busy note of
+preparation for removal. Down came the tents; the squaws packing up the
+furniture, and the Indians chasing and lassoing their horses. The noise
+and confusion, disagreeable enough under any circumstances, made the
+scene no inapt representative of chaos, from which I was glad to be
+delivered on the most expeditious terms possible; and I was easily
+persuaded to try my fortune again in the chase, more especially as we
+had nothing for breakfast. No words can do more than partial justice to
+one of these moving scenes. Not only the skin roofs of their wigwams,
+but the stakes and poles which constitute the frames, are carried along
+with them. Their furniture gives them little trouble, seldom consisting
+of more than the skins on which they sleep, an ox-horn tinder-box, a few
+sticks for roasting meat, and a leathern water-bucket. Tents and
+furniture are all packed together on their horses' backs. The pappooses
+in travelling are lashed to a kind of wooden sledge, rounded at the ends
+like sleigh-runners, and crossed with narrow slats, that bind the parts
+strongly together. The little brats are bound upon these machines, which
+are so shaped that their heads and feet are much below the general level
+of their bodies,--a very uncomfortable position for the youngsters, if
+they have as much sensibility to pain as other children, of which I
+incline to doubt, as they are inured from birth to almost every species
+of hardship. The sledge, with its living burden, is thrown across the
+horse's back, and made fast to the load. The mother mounts to the top of
+the pack, resting her feet on the horse's neck, and armed with a cudgel,
+with which she vigorously belabors the beast, right and left. The
+pappooses, not liking the quarters assigned to them, set up a general
+squalling. Mothers and maiden aunts join in full chorus, drawling out,
+at the top of their voices, "Hori! mutty, mutty! Hori! mutty, mutty!"
+without the least change, to the thousandth repetition. All these
+arrangements are made with remarkable celerity--in thirty minutes not a
+tent is left standing, but the whole tribe, their tenements and
+chattels, wives and brats, are all packed upon horses, and the motley
+cavalcade moves off like an army of beggars on horseback.
+
+[Illustration: BREAKING UP OF CAMP.]
+
+On the present occasion the movement was delayed, while we rode in
+search of something to eat. The chase was unsuccessful, scarcely enough
+being obtained to more than sharpen our appetites for dinner. The scanty
+meal being over, the whole company began their journey, which in its
+tortuous windings was not unlike that of the Israelites in the
+wilderness, but unlike that in the respect that we seemed to have no
+particular destination or object, except to explore new hunting-grounds,
+and gratify the capricious restlessness of the Indians. One very
+desirable end was answered,--we got enough to eat, as we were successful
+in killing a large quantity of game. The Indians, it was noticeable,
+were never at a loss to find their camps. So familiar did they seem with
+all their haunts and the general shape of the country, that though the
+surface presented to my eye scarcely any distinguishable way-marks, they
+would strike off from any point, however distant, and go with unerring
+aim straight to their tents. In returning laden with booty to our new
+homes, I was surprised to observe no indications whatever of water in
+the vicinity; a singular departure, at first sight, from their
+invariable custom, so far as I had noticed. Very soon the squaws issued
+from their huts, each with her leathern bucket. Curiosity prompted me to
+follow them a little way, when a spring was discovered, from which they
+had to dip the water with their ox-horn cups till the buckets were
+filled.
+
+About this time a new phase of life presented itself, to cast light on
+an important item of the social economy established in Patagonia.
+Looking out of our wigwam one evening just at dusk, I noticed an unusual
+concourse of Indians about two hundred yards distant. There were fifty
+or more, headed by one of the most ruffianly rascals in the tribe,
+marching in the direction of our lodge. I spoke to the chief about it,
+whereupon he went immediately to the back of the hut, and sat down on
+his little bed, his cutlass hanging beside him from a knot of one of the
+stakes. This he took down, laid it across his knees, and folded his
+arms. Something, I saw, was wrong. In anticipation of the worst that
+might befall me, I had found, a short time before, the handle of an old
+knife among the chief's trumpery, and also an odd blade; these I had put
+together, and the chief permitted me to carry it about my person, the
+only weapon he allowed me. I now planted myself on my knees beside him,
+and prepared to sell my life as dearly as possible, should the mob enter
+with evil designs towards me. The consciousness that I was in their
+power, and was sure to have the worst of any serious quarrel, made it my
+study to keep the peace with them as far as circumstances would admit;
+but there was a limit to my control of events, a very narrow limit,
+which I had constant reason to fear would be overborne by the impetuous
+hatred of my enemies, when nothing would be left but desperate
+resistance. Such a crisis seemed near, when the chief was himself
+reduced to a defensive attitude, and was indeed besieged in his own
+lodge.
+
+The motley throng surrounded the hut, their numbers constantly swelled
+by fresh arrivals; some were squat upon the ground, others peeping
+through the crevices. Presently one of the number addressed the chief,
+and the two conversed for some time in a low and unintelligible, but
+decided and emphatic tone. The crowd outside appeared to be a good deal
+excited, and kept up a continuous hum of rapid conversation. I looked
+and listened, with mingled curiosity and dread, while the chief repeated
+the same thing over and over again, in a firm, authoritative tone,
+tinged with anger. Unable to conjecture what was on foot, or to bear any
+longer the agony of suspense, I patted him familiarly on his naked
+breast, told him he had "a good heart," begged that he would not suffer
+the Indians to harm me. "You go sleep," was his answer; "no Indians come
+into this house to-night." I inquired what they were after, but no
+answer was vouchsafed, and he resumed his mysterious colloquy with the
+outsiders. The idea of sleeping under such circumstances was out of the
+question; I was wide awake, and bent on keeping so,--sorely bewildered
+at the strange goings on, and not a little terrified, but holding fast
+by my sole weapon of defence, and waiting a favorable opportunity to
+interpose another inquiry. The chief turned his head; and, perceiving my
+vigilance, repeated in an angry tone his injunction to sleep. This was a
+drop too much; and, clasping my arms about his dirty neck, patting his
+breast, and looking (with as confiding an air as I could assume) into
+his dull eyes, I begged him to speak to me, to tell me what these men
+wanted. "Do they want to break my head?"
+
+"The men don't want to hurt you," he said; "Indian wants a girl for his
+wife; poor Indian, very poor, got no horses nor anything else. I won't
+give him the woman."
+
+So speedy a descent from the height of my fears was not satisfactory; it
+was impossible to credit this explanation of such a formidable scene. I
+apprehended that it was a pure fiction, extemporized for the purpose of
+quieting me; but, as he seemed more communicative, I swallowed my
+doubts, and questioned him further. "What does poor Indian say?"
+
+"Says he'll steal plenty horses when we get where they are, and give the
+woman plenty of grease. Says he is a good hunter, good thief."
+
+These high titles to consideration did not seem to be admitted by the
+party they were offered to conciliate; on the contrary, the chief
+pronounced him a sleepy mink-skin of a fellow,--no thief at all; one
+that would never own a horse in the world. This opinion, which he was
+good enough to favor me with, he communicated to the party chiefly
+concerned, telling him that he was a poor, good-for-nothing Indian, he
+should not have the woman, and that was the end of it. After a little
+more jabber, and abundance of wrangling, the mob dispersed, much to my
+relief. Satisfied, by further conversation on the subject with old
+Parosilver, whose triumph over the mutiny had put him into better temper
+than usual, that the affair did not imminently concern my safety or
+welfare, I lay down to rest.
+
+In answer to further inquiries,--for I must plead guilty to a good deal
+of curiosity in respect of the poor Indian and his blasted hopes,--I was
+informed that without the chief's consent no marriage was permitted;
+that, in his judgment, no Indian who was not an accomplished
+rogue,--particularly in the horse-stealing line,--an expert hunter, able
+to provide plenty of meat and grease, was fit to have a wife on any
+terms. He never gave his consent for such lazy ones to take an extra
+rib; but, he very considerately added, all the difference it made was
+that some one else had to support the squaw till her suitor proved
+himself worthy, and acquired sufficient wealth to justify taking her to
+his wigwam; and, if he cared much for his _coury_, he would not be long
+in earning her; it would make him a first-rate thief,--the most
+indispensable title to favor in the tribe. It appeared that the
+possession of two horses, one for himself and one for his intended, was
+regarded as the proper outfit in a matrimonial adventure.
+
+The women are somewhat given to quarrelling among themselves; and, when
+their "combativeness" is once active, they fight like tigers. Jealousy
+is a frequent occasion. If a squaw suspects her liege lord of undue
+familiarity with a rival, she darts upon the fair enchantress with the
+fury of a wild beast; then ensues such a pounding, scratching and
+hair-pulling, as beggars description. The gay deceiver, if taken by
+surprise, slips quietly out, and stands at a safe distance to watch the
+progress of the combat, generally chuckling at the fun with great
+complacency. A crowd gathers round to cheer on the rivals; and the
+rickety wigwam, under the effect of the squall within, creaks and
+shivers like a ship in the wind's eye.
+
+While the _contract_ of marriage is so jealously regarded by the chief
+as to be subject to a veto in every case where a proposed match appears
+in his eyes unsuitable, the _ceremony_ is literally nothing at all. Due
+sanction having been given by the supreme authority, the bridegroom
+takes home his bride for better or worse, without any of the festivity
+which graces similar occasions elsewhere. About this time,--for, as I
+had no means of journalizing my experience, or even keeping the
+reckoning of weeks and months, it is quite impossible to assign
+dates,--a matrimonial transaction took place, accompanied by unusual
+solemnities. The rank of one party, and the extraordinary accessories of
+the occasion, will justify a particular notice of this "marriage in high
+life."
+
+One evening, the chief, his four wives, two daughters, an infant
+granddaughter, and myself, were scattered about the lodge, enveloped in
+a smoke of unusual strength and density. While the others sat around as
+unconcerned as so many pieces of bacon, I lay flat, with my face close
+to the ground, and my head covered with a piece of guanaco-skin, the
+only position in which it was possible to gain any relief from the
+stifling fumigation. While in this attitude, I fancied I heard the tramp
+of many feet without, and a confused muttering, as if a multitude of
+Indians were talking together. Presently a hoarse voice sounded in
+front, evidently aimed at the ears of some one within, to which the
+chief promptly replied. I caught a few words,--enough to satisfy me that
+I was not the subject of their colloquy, but that there was a lady in
+the case,--and listened curiously, without any of the fright which grew
+out of the previous negotiations. The conversation grew animated, and
+the equanimity of his high mightiness the chief was somewhat disturbed.
+I cast a penetrating glance into the smoke at the female members of our
+household, to discern, if possible; whether any one of them was
+specially interested. One look was sufficient; the chief's daughter
+(who, by the way, was a _quasi_ widow, with one hopeful scion springing
+up by her side) sat listening to the conversation, with anxiety and
+apprehension visible in every feature. Her mother sat near her, her chin
+resting upon her hand, with an anxious and thoughtful expression of
+countenance. The invisible speaker without, it soon appeared, was an
+unsuccessful suitor of the daughter, and had come with his friends to
+press his claim. He urged his suit, if not with classic, with "earnest"
+eloquence, but with success ill proportioned to his efforts. The chief
+told him he was a poor, good-for-nothing fellow, had no horses, and was
+unfit to be his son-in-law, or any one else's. The outsider was not to
+be so easily put off; he pressed his suit with fresh energy, affirming
+that his deficiency of horses was from want of opportunity, not from
+lack of will or ability to appropriate the first that came within his
+reach. On the contrary, he claimed to be as ingenious and accomplished a
+thief as ever swung a lasso or ran off a horse, and a mighty hunter
+besides, whose wife would never suffer for want of grease. The
+inexorable chief hereat got considerably excited, told him he was a poor
+devil, and might be off with himself; he wouldn't talk any more about
+it.
+
+The suppliant, as a last resort, appealed to the fair one herself,
+begging her to smile on his suit, and assuring her, with marked
+emphasis, that, if successful in his aspirations, he would give her
+_plenty of grease_. At this last argument she was unable to resist
+longer, but entreated her father to sanction their union. But the
+hard-hearted parent, not at all mollified by this appeal from his
+decision to an inferior tribunal, broke out in a towering passion, and
+poured forth a torrent of abuse. The mother here interposed, and
+besought him not to be angry with the young folks, but to deal more
+gently and considerately with them. She even hinted that he might have
+done injustice to the young man. He might turn out a smarter man than he
+had credit for. He might--who knew?--make a fine chief yet, possess
+plenty of horses, and prove a highly eligible match for their daughter.
+The old fellow had been (for him) quite moderate, but this was too much.
+His rage completely mastered him. He rose up, seized the pappoose's
+cradle, and hurled it violently out of doors, and the other chattels
+appertaining to his daughter went after it in rapid succession. He then
+ordered her to follow her goods _instanter_, with which benediction she
+departed, responding with a smile of satisfaction, doubtless
+anticipating the promised luxuries of her new home, the vision of which,
+through the present tempest, fortified her mind against its worst
+perils. Leaving the lodge, she gathered up her scattered effects, and,
+accompanied by her mother, the bridal party disappeared.
+
+The chief sat on his horse-skin couch, his legs crossed partly under
+him, looking sour enough. Presently the bride and her mother returned,
+and now began the second scene. The chief no sooner recognized them than
+a sound--something between a grunt and a growl, but much nearer the
+latter than the former, and in a decided _crescendo_--gave warning of a
+fresh eruption. The rumbling grew more emphatic, and suddenly his fury
+burst on the head of his wife. Seizing her by the hair, he hurled her
+violently to the ground, and beat her with his clenched fists till I
+thought he would break every bone in her body, and reduce her substance
+to a jelly. Perhaps I was a little hard-hearted, but she had been one of
+my bitterest enemies, and I had a feeling that if some of her ill-will
+to me could be beaten out of her, I could be easily resigned to her
+fate. The drubbing ended, she rose and muttered something he did not
+like. He replied by a violent blow on the side of her head, that sent
+her staggering to the further end of the hut. This last argument was
+decisive, and she kept her huge mouth closed for the night. There was a
+silent pause for some minutes, and, without another word, we ranged
+ourselves for repose. I thought the old heathen's conscience troubled
+him through the night; his sleep was broken, and he appeared very
+restless. Early the next morning he went to the lodge of the
+newly-married pair, and had a long chat with them. They thought him
+rather severe upon them at first; but, after a good deal of diplomacy, a
+better understanding was brought about. The young people could hardly
+get over a sense of the indignities they had received; but in the course
+of the day they returned, bag and baggage, to the old chief's tent, and
+made it their permanent abode.
+
+We now moved in a westerly direction, and on the way succeeded in
+capturing a good deal of game. Their mode of dealing with the carcass of
+the guanaco is enough to dissipate whatever appetizing qualities the
+meat--in itself very palatable--would otherwise possess. It was no
+uncommon circumstance, while the squaws were removing the hide, to see
+the dogs tugging at the other extremity, the women, meantime, crying out
+"Eh! Ah!" in a dissuasive, though not angry, tone. If the animals become
+too audacious, the ire of their mistresses is kindled, and they break
+out with "Cashuran cashahy!" a phrase equivalent to that which, in
+English, directs its object to a region unmentionable in ears polite.
+
+The Indians have, strictly speaking, no profane expressions. I never
+could learn that they worshipped or had any idea of a Supreme Being. The
+only observance which bore any aspect of religion was associated with
+something we should little think of as an object of adoration--the
+tobacco-pipe;--though, how far this is, in fact, an object of idolatry
+in Christian lands, it might not become me to speculate. The only
+occasions on which the Indians discovered any appearance of devotion
+were those of smoking. This may have been only a symptom of
+intoxication, but the reader may judge for himself.
+
+A group of a dozen or more assemble,--sometimes in a wigwam, sometimes
+in the open air. A vessel made of a piece of hide bent into a
+saucer-shape while green and afterwards hardened, or sometimes an
+ox-horn, filled with water, is set on the ground. A stone pipe is filled
+with the scrapings of a wood resembling yellow ebony, mixed with
+finely-cut tobacco. The company then lay themselves in a circle flat on
+their faces, their mantles drawn up to the tops of their heads. The pipe
+is lighted. One takes it into his mouth and inhales as much smoke as he
+can swallow; the others take it in succession, till all have become
+satisfied. By the time the second smoker is fully charged, the first
+begins a series of groanings and gruntings, with a slight trembling of
+the head, the smoke slowly oozing out at the nostrils. The groaning soon
+becomes general, and waxes louder, till it swells into a hideous
+howling, enough to frighten man or beast. The noise gradually dies away.
+They remain a short time in profound silence, and each imbibes a draught
+of water. Then succeeds another interval of silence, observed with the
+most profound and devotional gravity. All at length arise, and slowly
+disperse. Now, this may or may not have been a form of worship; but the
+circumstances attending it, the numbers uniformly engaged in it the
+formality with which it was invariably conducted, the solemnity of
+visage, the reverential grimace, the prostration, the silence, the
+trembling,--these, and traits of expression which are more easily
+discerned and remembered than described, gave me a decided impression
+that the whole had a superstitious meaning. The natural operation of the
+tobacco, and of the substance mixed with it, might explain part of the
+symptoms,--the writhing and groaning,--but these appeared to be a good
+deal in excess, and there were other features of the case which appeared
+to require another solution.
+
+I never asked any explanation. The mystery which savage tribes are so
+apt to throw around their religious rites, and their resentment at any
+unhallowed curiosity, I was not inclined to meddle with or provoke. If
+my conjectures were just as to the nature of this ceremony, inquiry
+might lead to unpleasant consequences. Ignorance appeared, on the whole,
+safer than knowledge of good or evil, gained at the risk of being caught
+trespassing on things forbidden. If any one thinks my precaution
+excessive, he is at liberty to take a different course whenever he finds
+himself in the jurisdiction of Parosilver, or any other Patagonian
+chief.
+
+The inquiry may arise, especially in the mind of the religious reader,
+whether I attempted to impart to my captors any knowledge of God, his
+attributes and laws. The answer is quite ready,--No, and for a variety
+of reasons. The writer did not understand enough of either Spanish or
+Indian to communicate intelligible ideas on any matters beyond the range
+of the senses, and Patagonia is pretty barren of sensible phenomena,
+which made my stock of words more limited than it might have been under
+more favorable circumstances. There was no finding "tongues in trees,"
+or "books in the running brooks;" the land possesses neither in numbers
+sufficient to be conversable. "Sermons in stones," even, must have been
+of very pebbly dimensions, and of no great weight. Had this difficulty
+been removed, I confess I had no great desire to surmount it. I was the
+object of suspicion and hostility. My life was in constant danger. To
+diminish, as far as possible, the causes of dislike, to mitigate their
+ferocious hate, to elude occasions of mischief, to delay what I feared
+could not be very long prevented, was my continual study. If the reader
+is not satisfied with this account of my conduct, I am sorry for it, but
+cannot afford any words of contrition. It is vastly easier, I may hint
+to the objector, to prescribe another's duties than to judge of one's
+own, especially where the two parties are in circumstances so widely
+differing. The Patagonians need the gospel--and the law--as much as any
+people I could name from personal observation. There was no trace of
+instruction imparted at a previous period, and the reception
+Christianity would meet with among them is yet to be discovered.
+
+Their pipes are made of a hard red stone, the bowl dug out with whatever
+iron or steel implement is at command to the dimensions of an ordinary
+clay pipe, the stem about an inch square, and three inches long, with a
+small perforation. A copper or brass tube, about two inches long, is
+fitted to the stem, and serves as a mouth-piece. This is made by bending
+or hammering a metallic plate about a small round stick, and soldering
+or cementing it with a glutinous substance thickened with earth.
+
+The copper, brass and iron, seen among them, was probably procured from
+unfortunate vessels wrecked on their coast. I was informed by Captain
+Morton, of whom the persevering reader will know more hereafter, that he
+had touched at Sea Bear Bay for a harbor, and saw there great quantities
+of iron pumps, ships' hanging knees, and other gear, from wrecks of
+vessels of all sizes. As he was bound for the land of gold, he thought
+it scarcely worth his while to collect the baser metals. Had he been
+homeward bound, he might have obtained a valuable cargo.
+
+As ornaments, bits of brass and copper, of silver and German silver,
+have a high value among the Indians, and when the metals are plenty such
+adornment is very common. The children's shoes have small oval pieces
+sewed on in front, and they appear on other parts of their dress. When
+scarce, they are more seldom seen. Blacksmithing in Patagonia is
+something of the rudest. Two hard flat stones do duty, the one as anvil,
+and the other as hammer. Of the effect of heat in making the metals
+malleable, and of the art of tempering, the people have no knowledge. To
+make a knife, they take a piece of iron hoop, or iron in any practicable
+shape, and hammer away upon it at a provokingly slow rate. Their blows
+are not heavy enough to do much execution; but they keep up a constant
+tap, tap, tap, hour by hour, till the iron is flattened to the required
+shape and dimensions. It is then rubbed on a smooth stone till it is
+worn down to an edge, and finally inserted into a wooden handle.
+Sometimes melted lead is poured into the handle, but lead appeared to be
+a scarce commodity. All mechanic arts, if they deserve the name, are in
+an equally rude and primitive stage. The simplicity of these people's
+ideas is indeed extraordinary. In invention or constructiveness they are
+babes. A Yankee boy, six years old, would be a prodigy among them,--a
+miracle of genius.
+
+An opportunity was afforded, while in camp, to see some specimens of
+their tailoring or mantua-making achievements;--either term is
+appropriate, as the male and female dress do not differ in form, and but
+slightly in the mode of adjustment. The mantle or blanket is worn around
+the shoulders; those of the women are fastened together by the corners
+under the chin with a stick for a pin; the men hold theirs around them
+with their hands, except that when hunting they tie a string around the
+waist.
+
+The skins of young guanacos are selected for mantles, on account of the
+superior fineness and softness of the hair. Nearly a dozen skins are
+used for a single mantle, as a large part of each is esteemed unfit for
+use, and thrown away. The skins, while green, are stretched to their
+utmost tension on the ground to dry. When partially dried, they are
+scraped on the inside with a stone sharpened like a gun-flint, sprinkled
+the while with water, to facilitate the operation. When the surface is
+made tolerably smooth, and of a pretty uniform thickness, it is actively
+scoured with a coarse-grained stone, till it has a bright polish. The
+skin is again dried, then crumpled and twisted in the hands till it
+becomes perfectly soft and pliable. The thread, as has been stated, is
+made from the sinews of the ostrich. These are extracted by the exertion
+of great strength, and divided into strings about the size of ordinary
+shoe-thread. They are then twisted, the ends are scraped to a point, and
+when dry become stiff; they are now ready for use.
+
+Two pieces of skin are cut to fit each other. The tailoress (for all the
+work, from the curing of the skins to the last results, is done by the
+squaws) holds the edges together with the left hand, and drills them for
+sewing with a sharpened nail, held between the first two fingers of the
+right hand; the pointed thread, held between the finger and thumb, is
+inserted and drawn through, and so the work goes on. The stitches are
+tolerably fine, and a very neat seam is made. Other pieces are added,
+and when the whole is finished the seams are rubbed smooth with a bone.
+The fur being worn inside, there remains the work of outside decoration.
+With a due quantity of clay, blood, charcoal and grease, amalgamated for
+the purpose, the artist arms herself with a stick for a brush, and
+executes divers figures in black, on a red ground; which, if intended to
+shadow forth men, require a vigorous imagination to detect the purpose.
+They might pass for unhappy ghosts (if a little more ethereal in
+composition), or for deformed trees. They bear a rude resemblance to a
+chair in profile, or a figure 4; and are thickly disposed over the whole
+surface, in the attitude sometimes vulgarly termed "spoon-fashion." The
+garment is now complete; the edges are carefully trimmed with a knife,
+and the fabric is thrown over the shoulders, with the infallible
+certainty of fitting as closely as the native tastes require. There is
+no trial of patience in smoothing obstinate wrinkles. A "genteel fit" is
+the easiest thing in the world; wherein Patagonian tailors have
+decidedly the advantage of their fellow-craftsmen in civilized lands.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Inclement weather--State of my wardrobe--Attempts to deprive me of
+     my clothes--Powwow and horse-killing--Hair-combing
+     extraordinary--Remedy for rheumatism--Sickness--Turn barber--A cold
+     bath--Fasting--Discovery of my watch, and its effect--I am made
+     showman--Lion-hunt--Successful chase.
+
+
+At our next halt we encamped in a deep, swampy valley. The weather was
+cold and stormy; rain, snow, sleet and hail, fell alternately, but did
+not accumulate on the earth to any considerable depth. Fitful gusts of
+wind came sweeping through the camp, making the wigwams shake fearfully.
+Our old lodge gallantly rode out the gale; but, either owing to its
+straining and working in the storm, or to some defects in the original
+structure, leaked shockingly all night. I was repeatedly awakened by a
+stream of cold water running under me. Giving the skin roof a few knocks
+to lighten it of its watery burden, and shaking the wet skin which
+constituted my couch, I would throw myself down, and resign myself to
+repose; but before quiet was fairly restored, another inundation would
+drive me to my feet. The night wore away with me, wet, cold and
+sleepless. After daybreak I rose, and continued for two hours in
+vigorous exercise to restore warmth to my chilled frame, before the
+Indians were astir. Fires were then kindled, and matters began to
+assume a more cheerful appearance.
+
+The weather, quite cool on my first landing, had grown gradually colder,
+and was becoming inclement. I was scantily prepared to endure the
+severity of winter. My under-garments, as before related, were
+desperately expended in trying to signal passing vessels. Cravat and
+pocket-handkerchief were appropriated to the adornment of the women in
+our household, to the no small envy of less favored ones. My sole
+article of linen was in shreds, and of a color that would afford matter
+for speculation to a jury of washerwomen. Stockings and shoes were sadly
+dilapidated; coat and trousers were glazed with dirt and grease till
+they shone like a glass bottle. The contents of my pockets were all
+confiscated,--purse, keys, knife, &c.,--and a pair of pistols, of the
+use of which my captors knew nothing, were taken to pieces, and the
+brass mountings suspended about the necks of the chief's wives. In
+short, my outer man was nigh unto perishing, and I had no visible
+resources to arrest or repair the process of time, while I was not
+sufficiently inured to the climate to adopt the native dress without
+serious risk to health. But none of these things were allowed to trouble
+me. I took no thought for the morrow, but, according to the scriptural
+injunction, suffered the morrow to take care for the things of itself,
+esteeming sufficient unto each day the evil thereof.
+
+At an early period of my captivity, the chief and some other Indians had
+cast a longing eye on my clothes, and tried to seduce me into parting
+with them. They offered no compulsion in the matter, but resorted to all
+manner of tricks. It seemed that they thought a white man could afford
+to go without dressing. I explained to them that, having always worn
+clothes,--having in infancy, even, unlike Patagonian piccaninnies, been
+externally protected against the fresh air,--it was quite impossible for
+me to change my habits without the hazard of my life; and, if I should
+die in consequence of yielding to their wishes, they were reminded they
+would lose the valuable ransom they expected for me. This reasoning
+proved convincing; greatly as they longed for my wardrobe, they more
+desired rum and tobacco, and I was permitted the undisturbed enjoyment
+of the scanty covering left me.
+
+The storm continued for two days and nights; on the third day it cleared
+up. About mid-day, observing a crowd of Indians together with a huge
+jargon of tongues, I learned, on inquiry, that a horse was to be killed;
+a matter which, it appeared, was always the occasion of a solemn powwow.
+On reaching the spot, a poor old beast, lean and lank, with a lariat
+about his neck, stood surrounded by some fifty Indians. The squaws were
+singing, in stentorian tones, "Ye! Ye! Yup! Yup! Lar, lapuly, yapuly!"
+with a repetition that became unendurable, and drove me to a respectful
+distance. The horse's fore-legs were fast bound together, a violent push
+forward threw him heavily to the ground, and he was speedily despatched
+with a knife; anticipating, by a few days, the ordinary course of
+nature. Soon after my return to the wigwam, a huge portion of the
+carcass was sent to our quarters and hung up, to furnish our next meals!
+After being duly dressed by the women, with the aid of the dogs, and
+scorched and smoked according to usage, it was served up,--my only
+alternative to starvation. Famine has no scruples of delicacy; if the
+reader is disgusted, he is in a state of sympathy with the writer.
+
+Early the next day we (literally) pulled up stakes, and were on the
+move; and, after journeying all day, encamped in a situation very like
+the one we left in the morning. The Indians spent their time, as usual,
+in gambling and in combing each other's hair, with a brush made of stiff
+dry roots, tied up together. The operator received as a fee the _game_
+captured in the process. The reader will excuse a more explicit
+statement of what, though less abominable than cannibalism, is hardly
+less repulsive.
+
+One evening our family circle were seated round a fire, which sent up
+volumes of smoke sufficiently dense to suit a savage of the most
+exacting taste, and which drove me, as usual, to the back part of the
+hut, where I lay flat on my face. One of the chief's wives was
+inveighing against me, as was her wont, and a second occasionally joined
+in the strain, by way of chorus. A third was cracking the bones of a
+guanaco, that her son Cohanaco might eat the marrow. The fourth and last
+of the women was attending to a piece of meat for our supper, fixed on a
+forked stick, in the smoke. Two sons were engaged, as usual, in doing
+nothing, except occasionally begging a little of the marrow, and
+scraping their dirty legs with a sheath-knife, by way of diversion;
+sundry by-plays, and little pieces of mischief, served to fill up the
+spare minutes. The old chief, who had been silently regarding the scene,
+now commenced talking, in a low, mumbling, guttural tone, to one of his
+wives. She was busily eying the toasting-fork, and studying the process
+of cooking; but, at her husband's instance, left them, and drew from
+their repository of tools a sharpened nail fixed in a wooden handle,
+like an awl. The chief stretched himself on the ground, face downwards;
+a surgical operation was plainly impending. What could the matter be?
+Had the chief, in the excess of his plumpness, burst open, like ripe
+fruit, requiring to be sewed up? I drew my head from beneath the
+protection I had provided against the smoke, and rose on my knees, to
+get a better view; the huge, black, greasy monster lay extended at his
+full length, his wife pinched up the skin on his back, pierced it with
+her awl, and continued the process till a number of perforations were
+made, from which the blood oozed slowly. I asked the meaning of this
+operation, and was told by the chief that he had pains in his back, for
+which this was the best remedy. Blood-letting, it seemed, is no monopoly
+of the faculty. I told him that in my country we applied, in such cases,
+a liquid called opodeldoc, an infallible remedy, and promised to procure
+him some when we got to Holland. This was henceforth added to my list of
+inducements.
+
+The old fellow righted himself, and leaned against one of the pillars of
+his palace; one of his partners pulled up the toasting-fork, and jerked
+the half-roasted and more than sufficiently smoked meat upon the ground,
+seized the knife which the boys had been playing with, and cut the mess
+into liberal pieces, which were thrown broadcast on either side. The
+chief's appetite did not appear to be affected either by his
+indisposition or by the extraordinary remedy applied; his portion of the
+_carne_ disappeared behind his great white teeth with a haste that
+seemed to involve no waste.
+
+Rheumatic affections, they told me, are very common among them; the
+chief showed me the arm of one of his wives, which was scarred from the
+wrist to the shoulder by the awl; and the operation was afterwards
+performed on other members of the family.
+
+Again we took up the line of march, travelling, as near as I could
+judge, west-north-west, and killing a quantity of game, both guanaco and
+ostrich. But the hardship of my life, aggravated by a constant flesh
+diet, and that eaten half raw, and at irregular seasons,--often going
+two days without food,--had, by this time, brought on a dysentery. This
+was no more than I had expected; but I knew of no remedy, and had to
+endure it as I could. We encamped, on the second day, near the banks of
+the river Gallegos; a fine spring of water issued from the river-bank
+into a low marshy ground, skirting the margin of the stream. By this
+time my illness had increased, till I felt unfit to travel further, and
+began to think that death could not be distant. No change of diet was
+practicable, and there was nothing to counteract its effect on my
+system. The pain and weariness of travelling did their part to aggravate
+the disorder; and mental discouragement--the sickness of hope
+deferred--completed my prostration. No human being in that desolate land
+cared for my sufferings, more than they would for those of a dog. Worn
+out with the constant irritations of a state of existence odious to
+every sensibility, tired and disheartened, but for one thought I could
+have gladly laid myself down to die, to get at once and forever beyond
+the reach of my savage tormentors. The thought of home, of wife and
+child, of friends and country, and all the unutterable emotions that
+respond to these precious names, at once tortured and strengthened me.
+These, and the thought that perhaps, after patient endurance, Divine
+Providence would restore me to the objects of my famished affections,
+made life still dear. These strengthened me to suffer and to strive.
+
+As I crawled out of the lodge, to look upon the sun, and breathe the
+pure air, and be refreshed by breezes untainted with the breath of cruel
+men, it came into my mind that some palatable or even tolerable species
+of plant or root would be wholesome for me. On looking about, there
+presented itself a specimen of large dock, such as is common in the
+United States; a weed of humble pretensions, but why not worthy of a
+trial? With what strength remained at command, I began a process of
+"extracting roots," with good success. Taking a quantity into the hut,
+and roasting them in hot ashes, they were found to be not distasteful; I
+filled my pockets with them, and abandoned flesh-diet for a little time,
+to the sensible, though gradual, relief of my sufferings. Fortunately we
+had a season of bad weather, which prevented any advance movement for
+four or five days, and gave me time partially to recover strength. I
+could not sooner have kept my seat on a horse; and, if the alternative
+had been presented, the Indians, as I very well knew, would sooner have
+knocked me on the head than have allowed me to hinder their march for a
+day. A powwow was held over another horse, unserviceable alive, and
+therefore marked for diet; but this time I did not compete for any part
+of his carcass, my pocket-stores being quite sufficient, and more
+attractive. But in the fate of the poor beast I read a warning to
+myself, to make haste and get well enough to move at the first signal.
+
+Away again,--this time facing about, and passing down the river. I
+needed rest; but, at whatever expense of suffering, needs must when a
+certain old gentleman drives. At the next stopping-place my services
+were called into requisition in a new department. One forenoon, as I
+sauntered towards our wigwam, after a stroll among the smutty huts, to
+kill time and divert painful thoughts, I was hailed from within by the
+chief, "Arke, Boney!" On entering, he appeared to be conversing, in low,
+gurgling sounds, with his lately-married daughter, who was running her
+hands through the shaggy hair of her young hope, as she talked.
+Something was plainly wrong in the youngster's top-knot, and some
+unpleasant task in relation thereto was as plainly about to be imposed
+upon me. The chief resolved my doubts, by ordering me to cut off a
+portion of the shag; I objected a want of the proper implements, but the
+mother silenced me by producing an old pair of scissors, in no condition
+to cut anything. Calling for a file, the rusty edges were brought into a
+tolerable state, and I approached the task. Such a sight! If the hair
+now would have obeyed a mesmeric pass, without the need of manual
+contact,--if the job could be performed with closed eyes, and insensible
+nostrils, and absent mind! Faugh! I hurried through the penance, hiding
+disgust, and assuming the appearance of good will, and made good my
+escape into the fresh air. And so I must turn barber, and, in all
+likelihood, have the dirty heads of half the tribe put under my nose!
+What would come next?
+
+Our next move took us across the river Gallegos, in shoal water, barely
+up to the horses' knees. The current was rapid, and masses of floating
+ice were swept along with it. When half way across, my horse took
+fright, reared, and, in attempting a sudden turn, precipitated me into
+the water, and fell heavily upon me. The ducking and the bruise together
+were severe, and, among other disasters, the crystal of my watch was
+broken by the shock. This I had kept carefully secreted, as a last
+resort, to amuse the savages when other expedients should fail,--when
+memory and invention could yield no more tales, when promises should
+have become threadbare with repetition, and when pretensions of
+greatness at home should have lost their power by the every-day
+disclosure of present weakness and humiliation.
+
+We--that is to say, myself and the old horse--kicked and floundered a
+while in the cold water, till at last the creature succeeded in rising,
+and I followed his example. We waded ashore, dripping, amidst the
+uproarious laughter of the whole troop. Once more mounted on my
+Rosinante, we resumed our line of march. The chill from my cold bath so
+benumbed me that I had to dismount and lead the horse, to recover, by
+brisk walking, some portion of animal warmth. Our course was down the
+river towards the Atlantic. Being unsuccessful in the chase, we pitched
+our tents at night, supperless, and without prospect of breakfasting the
+next morning. A small fire was lighted, which I hugged as closely as
+possible, to thaw my stiffened limbs; and then, cold, wet and hungry,
+fagged to extremity, cast myself on the ground, to repose as I might.
+The next morning was stormy. It cleared up in the afternoon, and the
+Indians sallied out to find some food. My only refreshment before their
+return was a little grease, which one of the squaws scooped out of an
+ostrich-skin with her dirty thumb and finger. It was so black that its
+pedigree--whether guanaco, ostrich or skunk, or a compound gathered at
+random from beast and bird--was a problem defying solution; but famine
+is not fastidious, and I swallowed greedily what, a few months before, I
+should hardly have thought fit to grease shoes with. The men came back
+with a few ostriches and skunks. The chief received as his portion one
+of the quadrupeds. The associations connected with its name, as related
+to one sense, were not adapted to prepossess the others in its favor;
+but I made shift to do justice rather to the Indian than to my habitual
+tastes.
+
+During the three days we remained here, the long-concealed watch was
+brought to light. The filth of the natives, the condition in which their
+huts and their persons were always suffered to remain, the swarms of
+vermin they housed, had imposed upon me extraordinary care to prevent
+the natural results upon my own person; but no amount of precaution was
+sufficient to avert them. The reader will excuse me from speaking more
+particularly on this head. Enough to say that I found myself intolerably
+tormented. The chief ordered an examination of the case, and sent for an
+Indian to deal with it according to their art. While divesting myself of
+my garments, one by one, for this purpose, the old fellow caught sight
+of the hidden treasure. I knew that it was useless to attempt any longer
+to retain it, and handed it over. He was vastly pleased with it. I wound
+it up, and put it to his ear. He was as delighted at the unexpected
+sound as a child with its first rattle. I explained its use in keeping
+the hours of the day, but he cared for nothing but the ticking. The
+breaking of the crystal was explained, and he was informed that another
+should be procured as soon as we reached "Holland,"--another inducement,
+I hoped, to speed our passage there.
+
+The inspection disclosed a state of the cuticle which would be thought
+dreadful in a civilized land. The chief, however, looked as calm as
+beseemed a surgical examiner, and in a good-natured guttural exchanged a
+few words with his assistant, who placed himself by my side, and fixing
+his eyes steadily upon me, begun swinging his hands and howling like a
+wild beast. The comparison was not far out of the way, for he gave a
+sudden spring, fastened his teeth on my neck, and commenced sucking the
+blood, growling all the while like a tiger! For a moment I thought my
+hour had come. I weaned the rascal as soon as possible, not knowing what
+his taste for blood might come to, if too freely indulged. It seemed
+like a refinement upon cannibalism, but was, in fact, as I soon
+ascertained, the regular treatment made and provided by Patagonian
+science for the relief of severe cutaneous affections.
+
+The chief, all this while, recurred with undiminished pleasure to the
+ticking of his new toy. When his curiosity had at length abated, he
+returned it to me. I wrapped it carefully in a rag, and enveloped it
+afterwards in a young colt's skin provided for its reception, when, by
+direction of its present august proprietor, it was suspended among other
+valuables from one of the stakes of the hut, near the spot where his
+highness customarily reposed. It was not, however, allowed long to
+remain quiet. I was ordered to take it down and hold it to the ears of
+all the visitors to the lodge. Forty times a day it had to come down for
+this purpose, till I got so tired of my showman's duty that I wished
+the watch in the bottom of the sea. The Indians, as they listened to its
+vibrations, would stand in every attitude of silent amazement, their
+eyes dilated, their countenances lighted up in every feature with
+delighted wonder, and then break out in a roar of hoarse laughter, the
+tone of which strangely contrasted with the infantile simplicity of
+their demeanor. The business was dreadfully annoying, and yet it was
+plain that a new and almost unbounded power affecting my destiny was
+hidden in that little machine. It had captivated the chief, and struck
+an awe over the tribe like the rod of an enchanter. Whether it boded
+good or evil, was another question.
+
+Our next move took us in a west-north-west direction, and in our
+progress we not only secured abundant game of the ordinary varieties,
+but encountered and killed a young lion,--to use the popular term,--the
+first living specimen I had seen in the country. I had seen their skins
+in possession of the Indians, and heard stories of their chase. This was
+a youthful creature, about the size of a well-grown calf of six weeks. I
+was riding side by side with the chief across a piece of low bushy land,
+when the dogs gave token that they scented something uncommon. We
+halted, and the chief cried out to the dogs, "Chew! Chew!" They were off
+in a jiffey, rushing hither and thither through the bushes, barking
+furiously, and soon drove the beast from his covert. Other Indians, a
+little distance off, ascertaining what was in the wind, made after the
+game with a reinforcement of dogs. The chase began in good earnest.
+Horses, riders and dogs, from all points of the compass, were scampering
+to the scene of action, hallooing, barking, howling, enough to frighten
+any unsophisticated lion out of his senses. Some were running full tilt,
+to cut off his retreat; while the hunters, bareheaded, leaning forward
+in their saddles and urging their horses to their utmost speed, whirled
+the bolas about their heads and let fly with a vengeance, with no other
+effect than to arrest the furious animal, and cause him to turn in
+desperation on the dogs, and drive them back yelping with pain. Others
+of the pack, watching their opportunity, would spring upon his back and
+fasten their teeth in his flesh. He brushed them off with a single
+stroke of his paw, as if they had been flies, and was again in motion,
+halting occasionally to give fight to his nearest assailant. Now and
+then the bolas is hurled at him, but his lithe limbs, though sometimes
+entangled, are not fettered by it, and his prowess is hardly diminished.
+The Indians press around him; the battle waxes fiercer; his whole
+strength is taxed. "Chew! Chew!" roar the savages; the flagging dogs
+return fresh to the onslaught, and, after a hard and unequal contest,
+the animal is fairly overborne by numbers, and despatched by the blows
+of the Indians. I had kept in the vicinity, but yet at a respectful
+distance, and now rode up to view the slain, amidst the howlings of the
+wounded dogs and the boisterous laughter of the hunters. It was a
+beautiful animal, with soft, sleek, silvery fur, tipped with black; the
+head having a general resemblance to that of a cat, the eye large and
+full, and sparkling with ferocity.
+
+After the Indians had eyed their game sufficiently, and talked and
+laughed and grunted their satisfaction, and congratulated themselves
+generally on their victory, and severally on the part each had taken,
+the body was driven off on the back of a horse, and the hunters again
+spread themselves over the country. Some ostriches were soon started up.
+The chief drew out his bolas, put spurs to his horse, and darted away.
+His mantle fell from his shoulders: his long, straight black hair, so
+coarse that each particular hair stood independently on end, streamed in
+the wind; his hideously painted face and body loomed up with grotesque
+stateliness, and the deadly missile whirled frantically over his head.
+The whizzing weapon is suddenly hurled at his victim, the chief still
+sitting erect in his saddle to watch its effect. His horse suddenly
+stops,--he dismounts nimbly, seizes the entangled bird by the throat,
+and swings it violently around till its neck is broken. As I rode up he
+deposited the great bird on my horse, remounted, and rushed in pursuit
+of another. That was killed and also placed in my keeping, making me a
+kind of store-ship. Others pursue the guanaco with equal success, till
+they are satisfied with their booty. We ride up to a convenient thicket,
+a fire is lighted, a portion of the prey is cooked and eaten, the
+remnants of the feast and the residue of the game are duly packed up,
+and the whole troop is under march for the camp.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     The chief's oratory--A case of sickness novelly treated--The
+     captive commissioned as physician to the chief--Dr. Bourne's first
+     and last patient--Murder--Cannibalism--Another assassination,
+     showing the perils of medical practice among savages--Sports of the
+     children--Patagonian farriery--Slender success in the chase--A
+     second struggle for life.
+
+
+The chief occasionally made a speech to his subjects from the door of
+his lodge, wherein he invariably inculcated the duty of hunting
+industriously to procure meat, and a due supply of grease, for their
+families. He never had an auditor in sight, for his faithful lieges
+considered the speech from the throne a decided bore, and, if one
+happened to be passing, he was sure to dodge into the nearest hut till
+the infliction was over; but the leathern lungs of the orator could not
+fail to make him audible in many of the wigwams. In length his
+performances more resembled the official addresses of our republican
+rulers than those of his royal cousins of Europe, seldom falling short
+of a full hour. In style, they came nearer the proclamations of a crier.
+He would proceed in a monotonous rumble to the end of a sentence, and
+then defy contradiction by repeating several times, "Comole! comole!
+comole!" after which he paused, as for a reply. No one having the
+audacity to take up his challenge, he would go on croaking the same
+things with tedious iteration. After listening very patiently to one of
+his harangues, I inwardly applauded the taste of his subjects in getting
+as far as possible out of the reach of his voice.
+
+One forenoon, as I was beginning to feel impatient to move,--for every
+movement seemed to fan the flickering hope that we would soon reach a
+place affording some avenue of escape, and this restlessness always made
+camp-life doubly dismal,--the chief informed me that we should decamp
+that day. Preparations had commenced, when one of his daughters came in
+with a child crying at a tempestuous rate. The version which she gave of
+his complaints arrested the marching orders. A messenger was forthwith
+despatched for one skilled in the healing art. The physician soon
+arrived, armed with two small packages rolled up in pieces of skin,
+about a foot long and three or four inches in diameter, which I took to
+be his medicine-chest. He walked gravely in, laid down the packages, and
+squatted beside the mother, who held the little patient in her arms.
+Whatever his ailment might have been, his lungs could not have been
+impaired, for he was roaring like a young buffalo. Not a word was spoken
+for some time, the doctor all the while looking him very steadily in the
+eye. Then came a sudden calm, importing that the little fellow
+experienced some relief, or, more probably, that he was exhausted. The
+doctor ordered an application,--not of hot water, according to the
+prescription of Sangrado, but of a mortar made of clay. The clay was
+brought, the anxious mother worked it over with her two hands, spitting
+upon it to give it the requisite moisture, and having reduced it to the
+consistency of thick paint, bedaubed the little fellow from head to
+foot, giving him a decidedly original appearance. He evidently took
+umbrage at this unction, and discoursed in his shrillest tones till he
+was fairly out of breath. The medicine-chests were opened, but, instead
+of medicinal herbs, disclosed only a bunch of ostrich's sinews and a
+rattle eight or ten inches long. The physician commenced fingering the
+strings, and muttering almost inaudibly. This lasted four or five
+minutes, at the expiration of which he seized his rattle, and clattered
+away furiously for a minute or two, and resumed his place by his
+patient, eying him intently as before. He then turned with an air of
+importance to the chief, who had been crouching cross-legged on his
+couch, leaning forward, with his arms tightly folded on his breast, and
+watching anxiously the progress of the treatment. The man of skill broke
+silence: "I think he is better; don't you?" The chief nodded, and
+grunted assent. The same appeal was made to the mother, and received a
+like response. Another plastering was ordered, another burst of melody
+followed the application, the mysterious strings were again fingered,
+duly followed by the rattle. The parent and grandparent once more
+assented to the leech that the child was better. The chief took out a
+piece of tobacco, and cut off enough for about two pipefuls, which was
+tendered and gratefully accepted as a professional fee. The strings were
+tied up and replaced in their proper receptacle, and the rattle was
+shaken with hearty good will, whether by way of finale to the cure, or
+as a note of gratitude for the fee, or of triumph for success, could not
+easily be guessed. But the practitioner had scarcely evacuated the
+lodge, before his patient broke out more vociferously than ever; which
+I thought would somewhat shake the faith of his guardians in the
+treatment he had received. But no; their confidence in their medical
+adviser was not to be blown away by a breath, or even a tempest. They
+evidently regarded him as nearly infallible. His remedies were obviously
+aimed more at the imaginations of his spectators than at the body of his
+patient, but it was no concern of mine. Patients among us have to endure
+more disagreeable applications than wet clay. The noisy brat became
+quiet, to our great relief. He shortly appeared to be quite well, and
+continued to thrive for some time, as I had opportunity to witness.
+
+The tribe went ahead with alacrity, to make up for the loss of time this
+sickness occasioned. We moved off another day's journey towards nowhere
+in particular, and settled there at night. Then ensued another season of
+camp life, feasting and fasting, gambling and quarrelling, and venting
+superfluous wrath in an abundance of "Cashuran cashaly's." The chief was
+slightly indisposed, and I amused him with a description of the manner
+in which our physicians count the pulse of their patients. He listened
+with considerable interest, and sat thoughtfully ruminating on the
+matter. He came to an unexpected and alarming conclusion; putting this
+and my story of the _opodeldoc_ together, he made up his mind that I was
+a physician myself! I protested against this inference, fearing that no
+good would come of the responsibilities he was inclined to impose on me.
+But the disclaimer was useless,--he stuck to the opinion; and in no long
+time it was understood through all the tribe that I was a distinguished
+doctor.
+
+Now, it came to pass, at this critical turn of affairs, that a certain
+widow, of pretty ripe years for a Patagonian, was taken suddenly ill.
+Her husband had been murdered many years before by one of the tribe. She
+was possessed of several horses, and, in virtue of this wealth, held an
+aristocratic position in society. A messenger brought the tidings to the
+chief, who ordered me forthwith to set the watch, and go with him to her
+residence. I again assured him I knew nothing of sickness or medicine.
+He told me he knew better, and bade me come along without delay. There
+was no resisting his will, and I armed myself accordingly with the
+"ticking machine," and followed my master on my first professional
+visit. On approaching the widow's lodge, our ears were greeted with a
+hideous clamor, which momentarily increased as we neared the spot. A
+great crowd of Indians, of both sexes, surrounded the wigwam, severally
+and collectively making the most villanous noise ever heard. The crowd
+was dense, both within and without, but gave way for the chief and the
+great foreign physician to enter. The first order I gave was to stop
+their singing, whereat there was a silence so blank that the fall of a
+pin would have been audible,--that is, if there had been a floor for it
+to fall upon. With what dignity I could command, I walked up to my
+patient. There she lay, crouched on a bit of horse's skin, so withered,
+shrivelled and contracted, that it seemed as if a bushel-basket might
+have covered her, bed and all. I knelt by her side, drew forth the
+watch, grasped her by the wrist, and felt for her pulse. But, to my
+surprise, I could not feel it. I fussed and fumbled a long time, and
+finally arrived at the mortifying conclusion that I was so ignorant as
+not to know the position of the artery! The patient was frightened at
+so unprecedented a proceeding; but I succeeded in quieting her fears,
+though not, alas! in counting her pulse. However, it occurred to me that
+it was all one whether I did or not; so, keeping up an imperturbable
+gravity becoming my office, I continued for some time to look wisely at
+the watch, holding her wrist in profound silence. When I judged that a
+due impression had been produced on the awe-stricken spectators, I
+ventured to prescribe, not a clay plaster, for the patient was dirty
+enough, in all conscience; nor yet any compound of drugs, for I had none
+to administer; and as to roots and herbs, I durst not inflict upon her
+stomach substances of unknown properties; but, after a little thought, I
+ordered some water heated blood-warm, and the patient to be washed, and
+thoroughly scrubbed, from head to foot. This, I thought, met the most
+obvious indications of her case, as I doubt not a whole college of
+physicians, upon a superficial view, would have unanimously agreed.
+There could not have been a doubt as to the novelty of the prescription;
+the respectable relict, it is safe to say, had never been washed so
+thoroughly from infancy to that hour. Minute directions were given for
+the bath, that the scrubbing should be particularly smart and thorough.
+She was furthermore put upon a strict diet, excluding _grease_ and all
+such luxuries, and we slowly retired from the sick room.
+
+My solemnity was not affected,--far from it. Promotion from barber and
+showman to the dignity of physician to the chief, was too dangerous to
+be lightly considered. In fact, anxiety drove sleep from my eyes, and I
+fervently prayed for the recovery of the widow; fearing, from what I
+knew of the superstitions of the savages, that in case of her death I
+should be held responsible. In this particular case, as very soon
+appeared, I misjudged; but of the general principle I had startling
+confirmation.
+
+The widow was better,--my prescription worked to a charm,--but her days
+were shortened. Late one night, after we had all retired to rest, a
+ferocious-looking rascal came into the chief's lodge; he muttered a few
+words to the chief, who arose, and went with him to the front of the
+wigwam. They conversed in a low tone several minutes, and separated,
+apparently with mutual satisfaction. I sounded the chief cautiously in
+reference to the matter in hand. Calmly, and without reserve, as if it
+were a very ordinary transaction, he said that the savages wished to
+kill the widow, in order to possess themselves of her horses, which they
+wanted to eat. I asked no further questions, being fully satisfied that
+he connived at the dark deed, which was consummated without delay.
+Before this tragic result, I had taken pains to disabuse the mind of the
+chief as to my supposed medical skill, and was able to relieve myself of
+the dangerous and burdensome honor.
+
+Strange flesh was eaten by the Indians about this time; I was told it
+was _lion-meat_, but was not invited to partake of it. The same thing
+was observed several times; at times, too, when I was positive they had
+killed no wild animals without my knowledge, or which were not disposed
+of openly. The nature of my suspicions may be easily conjectured; yet I
+made no inquiries, in even the most casual manner, as to their
+disposition of their dead. It was painful to think of the atrocities,
+that were but too probably shrouded under the mystery they cast over
+these transactions. On one occasion, however, a young Indian, who could
+speak a few words of Spanish and English, told me that they had killed
+and eaten three men. Whether he meant to have me understand this as a
+singular case, or as a common action of the tribe, I do not know; I made
+no inquiries of him. In fact, the statement was volunteered by him; and
+so painful was the subject, that I left him abruptly, in the middle of a
+sentence.
+
+We again moved in a north-westerly direction, taking a goodly quantity
+of game on the route, and settled in a wretched, marshy spot. The wind
+was high, and made the tents quiver like a ship in a gale; a storm set
+in, beating through the roofs, drenching and chilling me through all the
+night. On the evening of the second day of our encampment here, an
+incident occurred which fearfully confirmed the wisdom of my decision to
+renounce all title to medical skill. As I was seated by the dying embers
+of a little fire, surrounded by our motley household, and tugging
+manfully at a bit of half-raw meat, which constituted my evening meal,
+while a large piece was in process of cooking over the fire, we were
+suddenly startled by a cry of distress, followed by the distinct alarm
+of _murder_. The chief drew back to the rear of his lodge, took down his
+cutlass, and ordered me back from the fire, which was at once
+extinguished by two of his squaws, while the other two ran to the door,
+and set up a loud, lamentable wailing. All the women throughout the camp
+were, in like manner, giving their voices to the air, and "making night
+hideous;" and not a male Indian ventured to show his head for an hour or
+more. It was to me an hour of fearful suspense, the agony of which I
+cannot describe. At last a man came and told the chief that a doctor
+had been murdered. He had visited a woman professionally, and treated
+her case with charms and spells, but his prescriptions effected no
+satisfactory result; and her husband went in a rage to his lodge, and
+stabbed him with repeated blows, to make the work of death more sure. It
+was a singular circumstance, that men capable of deliberate murder, and
+who had so recently, with the tacit or open sanction of the chief,
+strangled a woman for her horses, should have shown so much alarm at the
+cry of murder on this occasion. The victim was an enormously fat man,
+weighing, I should judge, nearly four hundred pounds. A horrible sight
+presented itself the next morning, on going out of our hut; the snow
+around the doctor's lodge was saturated with his blood. I drew back from
+the sickening spectacle, unable to look upon it with composure. Beyond
+their exhibition of stupid terror in the night, no notice was taken of
+the act; and about noon the camp broke up. We travelled till night,
+meeting with no success in the chase, and encamped on an extensive
+plain, near a good spring of water.
+
+It was an occasional diversion to watch the children at their sports, of
+which a favorite one was throwing ostriches' feet, with the sinews of
+the legs attached. The toes are cut off, and a pair of the feet are tied
+together, with a piece of sinew about a yard long. The children begin to
+practise the sport as soon as they are able to walk, and will continue
+the amusement all day; one boy throwing them into the air, and others
+throwing and hitting them as they fly, therein serving an apprenticeship
+to the grand manly accomplishment of hurling the bolas. Young Cohanaco,
+the chief's youngest son, appeared to excel all others; he was looked
+upon as a remarkably smart and very active lad; and, though he was six
+or eight years old, was not yet weaned! All the tribe fondled and
+caressed him; he would practise with the boys, often without any
+covering to his back, till excited and almost exhausted; then he would
+run into the lodge, take refreshment at his mother's breast, and
+speedily return to his sport.
+
+All this time _Holland_ was not forgotten, but the chief and his lieges
+were continually reminded of the urgent reasons for taking me there
+without delay; the presents which could only be obtained there, the
+fearful consequences of suffering me to come to harm, the great ships
+with the big guns, &c. &c., that would assuredly avenge me upon the
+whole tribe,--with what effect, beyond allaying present irritations and
+discontents that threatened me, it was impossible to determine.
+
+A novel sample of farriery offered itself to my observation one day,
+while hunting with the chief; my old horse, on a sudden, began to
+hobble, and very nearly gave out. I watched him some time, and jolted
+on, suffering somewhat from his uneven movements, but could not discern
+the occasion of the difficulty. On dismounting and examining his feet,
+nothing serious was perceptible, except that the hoofs were worse for
+wear, and broomed up a little. I remounted, and gave the poor creature a
+smart drubbing, to overtake his owner, if possible, and consult him on
+the case, which was one wherein I was content to defer to his wiser
+judgment. Sufficient steam was raised to bring us abreast of the chief,
+who, on hearing what was the matter, put spurs to his horse, and told
+me to come on--"Bueno caballo, se campo, campo." I tried to comply, but
+it was hard starting the beast, though I used up considerable wood to
+that end. The chief having got far in advance, and finding me
+desperately in arrears, hove to, and waited for me. I toiled on, and
+succeeded in working a passage to his position. He dismounted, inspected
+the horse's feet, and, directing me to wait his return, rode off. He
+soon reappeared with a piece of guanaco-skin, which he tied securely
+about the hoof of the lame foot. I expressed some surprise at this
+method of shoeing horses; but he said, "Buenos zapatos,"--good
+shoes,--and the event confirmed his words. The lameness nearly
+disappeared, and we jogged on together without any further trouble.
+
+While at this camping-ground, the chief one morning arose in a towering
+passion at some words let fall by one of his wives, and exhibited
+another sample of the rigor of matrimonial discipline, very similar to
+that which graced the nuptials of his daughter. He gave her a tremendous
+beating, which seemed enough to kill her outright; but she took it very
+calmly, as a sort of necessary evil incident to the married state.
+
+Once more on the move, the squaws taking charge of the furniture and
+baggage, including the pappooses, and the men riding in advance as
+usual, to chase supplies for the larder. Game was scarce; we got a
+couple of ostriches and a skunk,--or a couple of skunks and an ostrich,
+I forget which, and it makes less difference to the reader than at the
+time it did to me. We cooked and lunched on the ground, and turned our
+faces homeward with the scanty remainder. The women were busy erecting
+the wigwams. The ground was frozen, and a large iron bolt, doubtless
+from some wreck, served as a crowbar to dig holes for the stakes. The
+encampment was on a hill-side, near a low swamp, which furnished
+abundance of water, such as it was.
+
+We had scarcely settled down, and I was dreading the stagnant monotony
+of camp life, when dulness was dispelled in a most unwelcome manner.
+Knots of Indians could be seen in murmuring conversation, whose glances
+betrayed the bent of their passions. They were again getting impatient
+of my life, and caresses and flattery were of no avail to stem the
+rising tide. On the evening of the third day, I was summoned out of the
+lodge by the chief, and followed him in silence, with a trembling
+presentiment of evil. He led me to a spot where twenty or thirty leading
+spirits in the tribe sat ranged in a circle,--the fatal ring was once
+more set to ensnare me! Once I had escaped. Was it possible to effect a
+second escape? Everything said no. The chances seemed a hundred to one
+against it. What had I left unsaid, to tempt their cupidity, to excite
+alarm, to make them value my safety or dread the effects of harming me?
+I could think of nothing, and the dismal prospect benumbed every faculty
+of my soul. But, as I entered the ominous circle, an access of fresh
+strength, the courage of desperation, enabled me to bear up with energy
+against perplexity and fear; to resolve that I would meet them with a
+steadfast eye and an inflexible mind,--a force which, though springing
+out of weakness, should prove stronger than their utmost malice.
+
+Having seated myself near the chief, the consultation began and
+proceeded much as before, but with increased vehemence. Their
+demonstrations were alarming, but, to my joy, the chief took the same
+view as in the former council. Would he be able to restrain their savage
+tempers? His power was great, but there was a limit to its effect, and I
+feared. In my turn I sought to enforce his views, by arraying all the
+motives invention could produce, and was able to perceive that they had
+some weight. Again the matter was canvassed around the ring. There was a
+hesitation, as if they felt suspicious and unsatisfied. Then they began
+to cross-examine me; my promises were not explicit enough. What did I
+mean to give them? The answer did not content them; they wanted more.
+More or less made no difference to me, and I gave them assurance of all
+the good things they craved, when we should arrive at _Holland_. Another
+talk followed, and brought them to a pretty unanimous conclusion, that
+they would get the presents first, and _decide my fate afterwards_;--a
+"squeeze-your-orange-and-throw-it-away" policy, in which these rascals
+seemed to be remarkable adepts.
+
+The natives had no idea that I could understand their talk, and I was
+not at all eager to display my acquisitions. In fact, though unable to
+speak their jargon, my ear had become pretty well trained to interpret
+it, while my scraps of half Spanish enabled me, without suspicion, to
+hear, mark and digest, much of their conversation. This was, in part,
+acquired in teaching some of them, the youth especially, to speak
+English and to count,--a pursuit in which I engaged partly for their
+benefit, and partly for my own. Besides aiding me in learning their
+language, it tended, so far as it diverted their attention, to keep
+mischief out of their heads, after the manner in which constant
+employment maintains order in a ship's crew. It added to my knowledge
+of their character and ways of thinking, so that, in dangerous
+emergencies, I was able to detect the first symptoms of evil. More than
+once it enabled me to elude or to nip in the bud dangerous conspiracies,
+which, if they had gone further, might have proved fatal to me.
+Circumspection made self-possession more easy. I will confess--though
+the narrative may have made confession needless--that I am naturally
+timid, and inclined to the better part of valor. Yet somehow--God
+helping me--I early learned to hide my constitutional timidity under a
+show of fearlessness, even in circumstances of great peril. More than
+once, when a savage drew his knife at me, have I looked him in the eye
+and disarmed him by a laugh; perhaps laying hold of the instrument of
+death, trying its edge and praising its qualities, till its owner was
+shamed into quiet. One piece of English that tickled the chief was the
+title of "Old Boy," with which (from a conviction of its
+appropriateness) I early honored him, and which he appeared to relish as
+much as if I had called him "His Majesty."
+
+The council, to my great relief, at length broke up, and I returned to
+my wretched shelter. The chief pointed to my bed, and bade me lie down.
+I complied, not to sleep, but to adore the Providence that had twice
+rescued me as from the very jaws of death, to reflect on the past and to
+speculate on the future. The excitement of the evening kept me wakeful,
+and the night wore away and the morning dawned, without sleep for a
+moment visiting my eyes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     A new torture--Bloody gossip--An explosion nearly fatal--Plea of
+     insanity--Reconciliation--River Santa Cruz--Naval
+     architecture--Original mode of ferrying--Accident--Ominous
+     demonstrations thereupon--Perilous superstition--Plans of
+     escape--The chief fighting his battles over again--Prospects
+     brighten--A blind hint to naturalists.
+
+
+From this point we moved again in a north-westerly direction, finding
+game more plenty, and among other animals captured a species of fox, the
+first I had seen in the country. The camping-ground selected was a waste
+more desolate than had yet greeted my sight, even in Patagonia,--a low
+marsh, surrounded by sand-hills destitute of even the semblance or
+vestige of vegetation, past or present. The horses were let loose to
+solve the problem of existence as they could, while my landladies, with
+their canine assistants, served up a skunk and two ostrich-legs for
+supper. I thought myself fortunate at getting so ample a meal, having
+been on short allowance the preceding day.
+
+Here a new torture was inflicted. There had been abundance of voluble
+hatred against me, as I had too good reason to know, but it was around
+and behind me. Now, presuming, doubtless, on my ignorance of their
+language, they came to utter their bloodthirsty thoughts in my presence.
+At night, before retiring, the women began to talk against me, as
+usual; which never gave me much uneasiness, female opinion not having
+much force, I suspected, in affairs of state. Two of them had always
+appeared to bear me a mortal grudge, for what cause I could not
+conjecture, unless they thought I took up too much of his highness'
+time, or exerted too much influence over him. But, on the present
+occasion, the conference was enlarged by the entrance of two or three
+visitors, whose only errand seemed to be to give the chief gratuitous
+advice touching the disposal of my person. Though perfectly
+comprehending the drift of their remarks, I looked as stupid as
+possible, and bent myself to caress and flatter the old fellow with more
+than common servility;--patting his breast, telling him what a big, good
+heart it contained, calling him my _compadre_, and myself his child, his
+_piconine_, his _muchacho_. So deep was my abasement! To talk of the
+goodness of a heart beating with cruelty and black with crime! To call
+that black, greasy, depraved monster my father, and myself his dutiful
+and affectionate son! It is humiliating to speak of this;--what, let the
+reader imagine, must it have been to feel it! The bruised reed was
+well-nigh broken. The courage that sustained me in sharp trials was
+frittered away piecemeal by incessant irritation. Hope, that kept me
+from fainting in the fatal ring, vanished with the occasion that invoked
+it, and a bitter, consuming despair hovered over me. Then came dark and
+distracting thoughts of home, now more distant than ever, to stab my
+heart, already faint and bleeding. Again was sleep driven from me, but
+the night passed, and the blessed light of day stole upon me, as with a
+benediction from heaven.
+
+I arose and rushed into the open air to warm myself by exercise, and
+when the fire was lighted comforted myself by its kindly heat, and
+recovered a measure of buoyancy. But the day was wearily spent, and
+night brought the merciless gossips once more into the lodge. The two
+squaws led off with words of the most fiendish hate, urging that I
+should be summarily despatched, and gloating over anticipated vengeance.
+Tempestuous thoughts and sleepless hours had weakened me in body and
+mind. The fall of successive drops of water will madden the stoutest
+brain, and the drop too much had now lighted on my head. I was frenzied;
+strong passions, hitherto held in check, overmastered me. I rose, threw
+my cap violently on the ground, stamped, gnashed my teeth, and cursed
+without restraint. I shook my fists at them, defied their malice, and
+raved for several minutes, reckless of consequences. What was life to
+me? They were killing me by inches. Let them do their worst, no matter
+how soon. The chief was at first startled at such an explosion, and sat
+looking fixedly upon me, with a dark and clouded brow. It was fortunate
+that my rage was too impetuous to be contained within the bounds of my
+Indian-Spanish vocabulary, but breathed itself in good strong Saxon, so
+that speech could not betray me. For no sooner had the internal pressure
+been measurably relieved, than a sudden consciousness of error--fatal
+error--smote me with a new dread. What had I done? Where were my wits,
+that I should thus toss away life to gratify impotent anger? If my
+chance of life was worth little to myself, was it worth nothing to
+others, that I should so trifle with it? With returning sanity of
+feeling came also a hint of the way to repair my wrong. Without waiting
+for any questions or wordy explanations, I looked piteously at the
+chief, pointed to my head, and assured him it was disordered. I could
+not help my actions. I was sorry to make such an exhibition of myself,
+but it was all my poor head; and holding on to the poor head with one
+hand, I beat it reproachfully with the other, at the same time giving
+vent to some unearthly noises by way of corroboration. The old fellow
+looked rather dubiously at this change of scene, and asked if it was at
+them I shook my fists?--At them? No, no! they did not understand me. My
+heart was good, like his, but it was all my head, my poor naughty
+_cabeza_. Another thump on my cranium, and a second edition of the howl,
+proved sufficient. The plea of insanity was admitted; he expressed
+himself satisfied, and explained the incident to the amazed spectators.
+I drew a long breath with a returning sense of security, scarcely
+crediting the success of the artifice, and almost doubting whether the
+whole scene were not a dream. Real or unreal, it was over, and things
+were apparently on their former footing. Only my feminine foes would not
+be convinced, and added this crowning indiscretion to the list of my
+offences.
+
+We moved the next day in a northerly direction, and struck the river
+Santa Cruz, encamping about an eighth of a mile from its marshy banks,
+which, at this point, were bent in a broad, horse-shoe curve. We were
+surrounded, except on the river side, by high abrupt sand-banks, covered
+in part by underbrush of a stunted growth. The river was narrow, but
+deep and rapid. The Indians said it was the Santa Cruz, and that it led
+directly to "Holland;" but their lies about that same Dutch land had
+long since destroyed all faith in their words. That it was the Santa
+Cruz was probable, for I knew of no other river in these parts;--we had
+passed Corey Inlet and the Gallegos. The rest of the story I could only
+_try_ to credit. I tried to urge them on, but they were not to be
+hurried. Some of them grumbled that I had no intention of giving them
+anything, but meant to slip from them the first opportunity. No wonder
+they thought so; they certainly had not laid me under very great
+obligations of gratitude. What on earth they wanted of me, unless to fat
+and eat me, was past conjecture; and my fare had not been of a nature to
+induce corpulence, so that this supposition was not trustworthy. They
+_said_ they wanted me to help steal horses. They were bound for the Rio
+Negro, where they meant to steal seven hundred horses, of which number I
+was to get two. Certainly, I told them, it would be just the thing; and
+that was a most excellent reason for going to "Holland." They would find
+me a rare thief; but, however it might be with them, _I_ could not steal
+without a good stock of rum and tobacco. Was I insincere in all this?
+The reader may smile or may frown, but it was my purpose, if I failed to
+escape by way of "Holland," to humor them to the top of their bent; to
+ride, hunt, and even _steal_ my way into their confidence;--any way to
+insure present safety, and keep an eye open for future opportunities.
+
+Three or four days were passed in suspense, which was at last terminated
+by taking our line of march down the river. We halted at noon, at a
+point where the banks sloped gently to the water's edge, on either side
+of the deep and narrow channel. Active preparations were here commenced
+for crossing. Part of the horses were driven across the river, whilst a
+portion of the tribe were occupied in building boats to ferry their
+families and goods across. Their boats are constructed after a simple
+fashion. A quantity of bushes are cut and dragged down to the margin of
+the water. They take four tent-stakes, and lay them so as to enclose an
+area eight feet square, lashing them firmly together at the four
+corners. Four Indians then raise the stakes from the ground, while
+others place the skin covering of the tent over the frame, allowing it
+to sag down three or four feet. The edges of the skin are brought over
+the stakes, and fastened on the inside. The bushes, made ready for the
+purpose, are placed within, tops downward, round the entire
+circumference, and secured to the stakes, till the boat is completely
+timbered up. The bushes keep the skin distended, and give to the vessel
+an oval shape, so that, though square at the top, it bears a striking
+resemblance to a large iron pot. Its length and its breadth of beam are
+of course equal. When completed, it is firmly lashed from stem to
+sternpost, and from side to side, with a lariat, or green hide rope,
+forty feet long, to keep it from spreading or racking. I had no hand in
+modelling this witch of the wave, but, like an apprentice, did as I was
+ordered in forwarding the structure, and, when nothing else was
+required, "held on to the slack." It was at last completed, like the
+temple of Solomon, without the sound of axe or hammer; neither bolts,
+trenails nor caulking-iron, were required. We carried the barge down,
+and launched her in the stream. Two paddles were made by lashing two
+bladebones of the guanaco to sticks. Squaws, pappooses and baggage, were
+stowed away, till the boat was laden to the water's edge. I was directed
+to take passage with the family and household effects of the chief, and
+seated myself in the centre of the closely-packed craft. One end of a
+lariat was fastened to the boat, and the other tied to the tail of a
+horse. A savage mounted, with one rein attached to the wooden bit on the
+up-stream side. Two others took the oars, one on each side, and a squaw
+was stationed on the top-gallant forecastle for the purpose of singing,
+to insure good luck. All is ready. The old horse wades till the depth of
+water compels him to swim, and the boat is pushed off. The rider floats
+on the horse's back, kicking the water with his feet, holding the rein
+in one hand, and grasping the mane with the other. "Chew! chew!" he
+shouts, at the top of his voice. The black swan in the forecastle opens
+her capacious mouth and sings, "Yek yah, youri miti! yek yah, youri
+miti!" The two oarsmen dig away with might and main, while the younger
+fry swell the chorus with a "Yah! yah! yah!" The boat brings some heavy
+lurches to the windward, then yaws off to leeward; all owing to those
+lubberly oarsmen not meeting her with the helm in season. At length,
+after innumerable shiftings, we reached the opposite shore, and waded up
+on dry land.
+
+[Illustration: FERRYING THE SANTA CRUZ.]
+
+Several boats were constructed after the same unique model, and
+succeeded in crossing safely. Some of the horses, being better adapted
+to towing, were swam back to repeat the process, and our craft returned
+for a second freight. I watched the proceedings from the bank with
+intense interest, speculating on the probable consequences of an
+accident to any of the fleet. Such was their superstition, that, in the
+event of any ill befalling them, they would be quite likely to ascribe
+it to me, and serve me worse than Jonah was treated by his shipmates.
+The swiftness of the current, and the rudeness of their navigation,
+made them so liable to mischief, that it seemed wise to prepare for it;
+and I at once began ingratiating myself with two of the worst fellows in
+the whole tribe, by professions of special good will and admiration for
+them, and confidential hints that they would share more liberally in the
+bounties of "Holland" than any of their fellows. Whilst thus engaged,
+with cautious glances across the river, to make sure that all was right,
+I perceived that there was quite a commotion among the people below;
+some were springing upon their horses,--others, ready mounted, were
+dashing furiously down the bank. On looking some distance below, a boat
+appeared to be in distress; the lariat that bound it together had
+snapped asunder, and the pressure within, and the strain of the horse
+without, had broken the front stake; the horse, relieved of his freight,
+pulled for the shore, and could neither be coaxed nor beaten into a
+return to duty. The horsemen on the banks dashed into the stream, and
+swam for the wreck, which contained, among other passengers, a young
+child. It was already filled with water, and was partially turned on her
+side. The surface of the river was dotted with dark forms, struggling
+with the mad current; one horseman after another each grasped a floating
+object, and made for the shore. The craft had drifted nearly half a
+mile, and nothing could be made out very distinctly. The squaws, on
+first perceiving the mischance, watched the wreck, and sung in a loud
+and plaintive strain, all the while casting unfriendly glances at me,
+and gradually approaching the place where I stood. My apprehensions were
+so far confirmed by this movement, that I told John (the name I gave one
+of my present particular friends), as he loved rum and tobacco, and
+expected to get any, not to leave me. John saw at a glance what was in
+the wind, and appreciated both the immediate danger and the ultimate
+reward of averting it; namely, the privilege of being gloriously drunk
+at my expense. He told me to go into his hut, and pointed me to the
+furthest corner; where, I being duly ensconced, he took his station,
+cutlass in hand, directly in front of me. The singing grew louder, and
+the voices more numerous about the door; the song was their regular
+powwow strain, which invariably preluded the killing of a horse. The
+Indians began to enter the lodge, and looked unutterable things in the
+direction where I was crouching; the wigwam was soon filled with them,
+and they were beginning to crowd towards me, when old John opened upon
+them, and told them they ought to be ashamed of themselves, to come in
+there in that manner; they did not even know what had happened,--they
+did not know whether any lives were lost. They were threatening on
+account of the death of a child, when, for aught they knew, the child
+was alive; they had better wait patiently, till they knew more about the
+matter, before they made any further uproar about it. In this strain he
+parleyed with them for some time, till they concluded to retire,
+uttering, as they went, the most horrible sounds. I felt less relief
+from their absence than if John had not, by implication, fully assented
+that _if_ the brat was drowned, my life should answer for it. News soon
+came that the children were all safe, but that the boat was lost.
+
+An instant change ensued: the fire appeared to be quenched, but I feared
+it might break out at any moment afresh. Knowing their treachery, I kept
+a pretty suspicious watch on their movements; the chief soon came over
+the river, hurried, perhaps, in his movements by the accident, which he
+had witnessed from the opposite shore. After conferring with John, and
+giving him some instructions, and seeing that all was right, he
+reembarked for the other shore, as he made it his special business to
+see that all were passed across in safety. The ferrying ceased as night
+came on; the chief was likely to be on the opposite side all night, as
+there was a good day's work yet to be done before the whole would be
+transported. I had overheard him giving special orders to keep a good
+look-out on me during the night. I felt, however, some uneasiness in his
+absence; he had been my most powerful protector, having twice, at least,
+saved me from imminent death.
+
+I now began to revolve in my mind the possibility of escape; the thought
+suggested itself that I might steal one of their boats, and drift down
+the stream. I was long since heartily tired of captivity; my situation,
+especially if I was to be held a hostage of Providence for the safe
+ferriage of the tribe, was desperate. But, on second thought, I did not
+know that this was certainly the Santa Cruz; if it was, I was
+furthermore ignorant of our distance from the sea. I knew of no white
+settlement on or near the river; none, I remembered, was laid down in
+the chart; if such a settlement existed, I might hope to reach it in a
+_boat_, but a voyage in such a craft as one of these would be as
+hazardous as that of the wise men of Gotham. If there was no such
+settlement, and "Holland" was Patagonian for Utopia, my only chance,
+short of drifting in my leathern sack out to sea, would be to land on
+some island, in case an island there were; and then what should I live
+on, after landing? Berries I had never seen, except once or twice.
+Besides, my stolen craft could not be _paddled_,--the Indians had too
+good ears for that; I must follow the channel passively, through all its
+course, which was terribly crooked, while its rapidity increased the
+risk that the ungainly vehicle would be disabled. On the whole, it was
+so doubtful whether I could reach any particular place, or escape
+starvation after I got there, and so certain that failure would be
+death, the project seemed a forlorn hope. But then, again, it was not
+more forlorn than my present situation; so my poor mind vibrated between
+dangers,--the danger of remaining where I was,--the danger that I should
+escape only from the frying-pan into the fire. At last, as I _felt_ the
+frying-pan, and only _feared_ the fire, I concluded to try.
+
+Crawling as noiselessly as possible from my resting-place, I stole
+softly out, and made for the river. Alack! in calculating the chances, I
+had not once thought of four-footed enemies, and they were upon me
+before I was halfway to the shore,--a half-dozen dogs, barking loud
+enough to wake the whole encampment. I retreated incontinently to the
+lodge, and succeeded in getting quietly into my quarters again, not
+without some inward spasms. It was all for the best, no doubt, but it
+was not, just then, easy to think so, or _possible_ to _feel_ so; and,
+therefore, after a little time, I once more emerged from the lodge, and
+stole towards the river by a different track, hoping to elude those
+infernal dogs; but they, or some others, were on the alert, and came
+pell-mell upon my rear, barking more uproariously than before. I cursed
+the dogs, their masters, and my own folly, and gave up the attempt.
+
+The ferrying recommenced the next morning; and before night the whole
+tribe were safely landed, with their effects, on the west side of the
+river, and their wigwams were all pitched. We were short of provisions;
+but this was a common case, and I was accustomed to it. I got an
+occasional morsel of grease, sufficient to keep starvation at bay; but
+illness, with bad and insufficient food, had greatly emaciated me, till
+I was a spectacle but few degrees above the living skeleton. But hope
+was still in the ascendant, and I had no idea of lying down to die till
+I was quite sure my time had come. We continued our wanderings the next
+day in a westerly direction, slaying every living creature that came
+within reach, from a skunk to a guanaco. This was a great
+disappointment, as I hoped we should go down the river, the direction in
+which they said "Holland" lay, and the only direction in which we were
+likely to strike a white settlement, if any existed on the Atlantic
+coast. But my remonstrances on this head were vain; they would go where
+they pleased, and I must go with them. Time dragged heavily; hours
+seemed days, and days weeks. But impatience is no virtue, and submission
+was imperative.
+
+The country hereabout was more broken and mountainous than any we had
+before traversed, with a more abundant growth of bushes, and some clumps
+of stunted trees here and there. As we proceeded, keeping still to the
+north-west, game was more plenty. We came to two ponds, or small lakes,
+one of not more than four acres in extent, the other considerably
+larger; the latter was shallow, at least near the shore, as some
+ostriches pursued by the Indians ran into it, and their pursuers waded
+after, and succeeded in capturing them.
+
+At one time I observed a large scar in the calf of the chief's leg; the
+mark of a wound that must have been inflicted a long time before, as it
+was completely healed. Its depression was so great as to indicate a very
+severe cut, unless the old fellow had grown uncommonly fat since he
+received it. On inquiring the cause of it, he said it was from a wound
+inflicted by the Alanagros, a tribe inhabiting a country to the
+northward. The name he gave them signifies the blacks; and, from the
+manner in which he spoke of them, I inferred they were in some respects
+superior to the Patagonians. He said they were armed with cutlasses, and
+very long knives,--had tobacco, and plenty of horses; and I conjectured
+that they might have been a party of Spanish Americans, or one of the
+mixed races of Spanish origin. The fight, he said, arose on occasion of
+his tribe being on a horse-stealing expedition; they encamped a short
+distance off, and at night he made a descent on the Alanagros, killed
+some of them, and plundered their camp, carrying off many of their
+horses. The plundered tribe rallied, hotly pursued them, and recaptured
+a part of the booty; in the struggle wounding him with a cutlass, and,
+as I judged by appearances, cutting to the bone. He told the story with
+great spirit, slashing right and left, and grunting with extraordinary
+emphasis, as if to give an impression that good hard blows were given
+and taken: but I afterwards learned that it was a cowardly running
+fight, in which more sweat than blood was spilled.
+
+Nothing of importance occurred at our encampment near the lakes,
+except--what was a very noteworthy fact with me--such an abundance of
+ostrich that I was surfeited with the delicious fare, and was compelled
+by the chief to take a horse-rein emetic,--a more precise description of
+which the reader will have no difficulty in excusing. Had I not so
+completely disavowed the medical character, the chief might probably
+have allowed me to feel my own pulse,--if I could find it,--and to
+prescribe for myself; but the renunciation of professional honors
+brought me under the sanitary, as well as the political, jurisdiction of
+Parosilver.
+
+Our line of march was now in a northerly direction, soon deflecting to
+the eastward,--a movement that revived my sinking hopes. There seemed to
+be some prospect of striking the Atlantic coast, and coming within reach
+of civilized men. On our way we observed the tracks of some animals
+different from any I had met with. The chief said it was the _limerer_,
+with which lucid definition I was fain to be content; and, as no
+specimens were visible, the inquisitive naturalist must trust to his
+imagination for the rest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Retrograde march--A look-out ahead--New specimens of birds
+     observed--To the right again--Large inducements to visit
+     Holland--Apparent effect--Council--Other tribes of Indians--Story
+     of a battle--Capture of wild horses--A royal speech worth
+     hearing--Deputation to Holland--A start and a sudden halt--Journey
+     commenced in earnest--Order of arrangements--First view of
+     Holland--A weary day and night--A boat--A short parley--Swimming
+     for life and liberty--A rescue--Farewell to Patagonia.
+
+
+My hopes were soon cast down, by a decided movement to the westward.
+Every step, I was convinced, lengthened the distance between me and the
+spot where my most earnest wishes centred; for, though I knew not of any
+settlements in this barren region, yet it was pretty certain that if
+there was one it must be sought in the line of the Santa Cruz. Of our
+latitude and longitude I could form no decisive judgment; but by the aid
+of the sun, of which occasional glimpses were caught, it was easy to
+take note of our direction, and I never retired to rest without taking
+landmarks, and satisfying myself as nearly as possible as to our
+whereabouts. At night there was a renewal of the discussions which had
+once so nearly turned my brain, and now at times came near verifying the
+plea which then saved me from destruction; but I was enabled to keep my
+feelings in more equal check. Disappointed and care-worn, I spent the
+night in commending myself to the mercy and good providence of God,
+praying that he would soften the heart of the savage and open a way of
+deliverance.
+
+Among other matters that excited my curiosity, I was anxious to know
+whether the Indians were expert swimmers. The only occasion on which I
+had seen them attempt it was at the time of the accident in crossing the
+river. Then two of them swam across, while the others floated on their
+horses' backs, clinging to the mane. In answer to some questions dropped
+on the subject, the chief assured me that they were all expert swimmers,
+and could stretch off a long distance without resting, as they would
+show me, but that the coldness of the season made the experiment too
+unpleasant. Others of the tribe told the same story. The question was
+interesting, for obvious reasons. I had thought a time might come when
+it would be a very practical one.
+
+Some new specimens of birds made their appearance from time to time. One
+was a large black bird, resembling the turkey-buzzard, and subsisting on
+carrion. Another resembled the snow-birds of the north. I had also seen,
+near the sea-shore and by the lakes, several species of water-fowl,--one
+not unlike the wild goose, but the chief said they were not good for
+food.
+
+Our course, the next day, was northward, and the day following turned
+once more decidedly towards the east, whereat my hopes, varying with the
+compass, began to revive, though their buoyancy was tempered by
+experience of the uncertainty of Indian movements. Observing a spot
+covered with small trees, over which a great number of carrion birds
+hovered, we approached and found the carcass of a poor old guanaco,
+which had most likely paid the debt of nature without compulsion, and
+was stripped of its flesh by the birds. The chief broke some of the
+bones and eagerly sucked the marrow, and then picked up the remainder to
+add to the domestic stock of grease.
+
+At the close of the next day we brought up at a ravine, and found our
+camp by following it a short distance to a low flat. Proceeding to the
+eastward all the next day, we ascended a high eminence, from which the
+chief pointed in a south-westerly direction, and said that "Holland" lay
+_there_. I strained my eyes in the quarter indicated, without, however,
+making any discoveries, and with a strong disposition to think the Old
+Boy was hoaxing me. At dark we defiled down a steep declivity, and
+pitched our tents on the border of an extensive marsh covered with ice.
+Here I renewed my arguments for speeding our way to the promised land,
+dilating on the qualities of the promised rum in a style that would have
+astonished the advocates of the Maine liquor law, and impaired the
+confidence of those who had reasonably regarded me as a strict
+temperance man. Indeed, the antics and grimace with which I enforced the
+description, and illustrated the jovial effects of the creature,--the
+boasts of how I would teach them, by its aid, to throw the lasso, and
+perform most astonishing feats of horse-stealing and riding,--might have
+induced a suspicion that I knew more of it than mere observation or
+fancy could teach. But, however it may affect my reader, it produced
+unmistakable contentment and satisfaction to my Patagonian auditors; and
+that was what I aimed at. They looked and listened with watering mouths
+and hoarse laughter, giving token that the balmy description was
+appreciated to a most desirable degree. So evident was the impression
+that I spent the next day running about and giving line upon line to
+the most influential of the tribe, and succeeded, as I thought, in
+awakening a degree of enthusiasm to move towards the place where all
+these good things were to be got. In confirmation of this, I had the
+satisfaction of being called at night to attend a solemn council.
+
+It was a peaceful gathering,--they left their weapons behind,--but it
+contemplated only a sort of preliminary inquiry; the Patagonians know
+how to make their forms of procedure as tedious as any of our courts of
+law, summary as are many of their dealings. They examined and
+cross-examined very strictly, sifting my story with a severity which
+showed that they were in earnest, and at the same time a little
+suspicious. It was necessary to be on my guard at all points; and if
+they had been more docile learners of arithmetic, and able to stick on
+questions of number and quantity, it might have been a harder matter to
+satisfy them. But, on the whole, the old story was stuck to with a
+degree of consistency that produced the desired effect. Their confidence
+was perceptibly raised, and, after a good deal of talk, the council
+adjourned, every one more than ever disposed to visit "Holland."
+
+While at this encampment, I observed on the ground about a dozen large
+oyster-shells, that appeared to have been recently opened. These were
+the first and only shells of the kind I saw in the country. I inquired
+if they were plenty in that vicinity. They said they were not; none of
+the tribe seemed to know where they came from, or anything about them.
+The chief said that he and his people did not relish oysters, but other
+Indians ate them. He did not like fish of any kind; no fish had grease
+enough for them; none of _his_ Indians ate fish. This, and some similar
+incidents and conversations, convinced me that there were other Indian
+tribes in the vicinity. On one occasion I had noticed some places where
+a tribe, probably as numerous as our own, had encamped. Their fires
+appeared to have been very recently extinguished. Our tribe appeared to
+be considerably disturbed at these discoveries, and I judged that they
+were the traces of some enemies. It is certain that my captors had seen
+some desperate fights, of which they bore the marks on their persons.
+One of them had a deep scar on his breast, which he said was the mark of
+an arrow-shot received from the _"Yamaschoner"_ Indians, a tribe that
+use the bow and arrow. His description suggested the probability that
+these were the Terra-del-Fuego Indians; but, on mentioning the
+conjecture at a later period to a person I met at the Chilian penal
+settlement, he informed me that those islanders invariably shoot
+_poisoned_ arrows, which would not leave the victim much leisure to
+describe their effect. The scar in question was a deep one, in the
+region of the heart; and while I was examining it, the chief remarked
+that the arrow passed through his body and came out at his back. On
+examination, a distinct scar was visible on his back, so far
+corresponding in form and direction with the one in front, that it
+seemed likely to have been made by the same weapon. But how the arrow
+could have transfixed him through the chest, without wounding the vital
+organs, was not easily to be conjectured. The only explanation I could
+conceive of was, that the fellow's heart was so much harder than any
+material used for arrowheads, that the missile, instead of penetrating
+that important organ, had glanced aside and passed without mortal hurt.
+Enough had been developed to assure me that the tribe generally had
+hearts of no ordinary toughness, capable of serving them for all
+practical purposes wherein impenetrable stuff was in request; but the
+tale of this miraculous escape gave a new impression of obduracy, and
+entitled the hero to bear the palm among his fellows. I pretended to
+pity him for his former sufferings, and went so far as to volunteer--in
+case I should ever be permitted to enter the enemy's territory--to make
+mince-meat of some of them, and so to avenge his cruel injuries. This
+spontaneous sympathy and forwardness to take up his quarrel was
+exceedingly gratifying to the sufferer and to the chief, and drew from
+them a more particular narrative of the combat.
+
+They were out on a horse-stealing expedition,--the usual occasion, it
+seems, of Patagonian fights,--and made a swoop upon the camp of another
+tribe. The objects of this felonious invasion asserted title to the
+horses in their possession by certain tangible arguments, and induced a
+mortal combat. And now Old Boy waxed eloquent, and especially displayed
+that prime ingredient, "action." His broad-sword exercise was really
+animated, and taught us "how fields were won,"--or would have done so,
+but that, while his right hand was slashing the air with his good steel,
+his left _would_ hold the bridle-rein, and his heels involuntarily drive
+the spur;--in short, though it was a part on which he did not linger in
+the narration any more than in the act, there was some tall running on
+the occasion. So artlessly was the tale told, that while the hero was
+cutting and thrusting and grunting, to make due impression of the
+desperate bravery displayed in the encounter, his subordinate action
+clearly depicted a running and retreating fight, and convinced me that
+they got a sound drubbing for their pains. He said he killed one Indian,
+with an air that would have done justice to the slaying of a regiment.
+Shocking to relate, there were found persons who slanderously reported
+to me that Old Boy's legs had the unhappy propensity of Pat
+O'Flaherty's, whose heart was as brave as any man's, but his cowardly
+legs ran away with his body; and they scrupled not to affirm that in
+this same hard-fought battle he crawled into the bushes, and there
+secreted himself till the cessation of hostilities enabled him to rejoin
+his tribe.
+
+The reader has doubtless noticed that "the tribe" has been all along
+anonymous. The explanation comes rather late, but, in point of fact, I
+never could learn that they had any distinctive name; they never used
+any. Indeed proper names were very seldom heard. Even in conversation
+concerning each other, they managed to avoid "naming names" as strictly
+as so many honorable senators, though for no reason that I could
+discover. By signs and gestures, and other hints, they indicated the
+personal subject of remark, and seemed to suffer no inconvenience from
+what would be felt among us as a serious want.
+
+While out hunting one day with the chief, we ascended a slight eminence,
+commanding a view of an extensive plain. The chief suddenly stopped his
+horse, and looked steadily forward. I bent my eyes in the same
+direction, and saw two or three mounted Indians moving towards a common
+point. There was nothing unusual to be seen, but Old Boy seemed to
+discover something. I inquired what it was. He answered by pointing;
+and, on a second view, I observed a horse loose, which I took to be that
+of some Indian temporarily dismounted. But the chief said they were
+about to catch a wild horse, and forthwith dashed off at a furious rate,
+bidding me follow. We were rapidly nearing the spot, when the two in
+advance of us put their horses at top speed towards the lone horse that
+was standing beside a clump of bushes. It suddenly ran before its
+pursuers, followed by two colts from the thicket. The colts appeared to
+be one or two years old, and were doubtless following their dam. One
+Indian singled out the mare, and another the larger colt. The little one
+did not lag behind. The chief and myself followed at a pace which would
+have made a single misstep fatal to our necks; but fortunately our
+horses proved sure-footed. On we dashed, helter-skelter, in a direction
+to head off the pursuers, and to place ourselves nearest to the
+affrighted animals. The mare yet holds the lead, and fairly tears up the
+soil with her flashing hoofs. An Indian, in close pursuit, presently
+swings his lariat about his head; but she makes a curve in her course,
+and springs beyond the reach of his aim. Her pursuer once more gains on
+her; again the lariat swings through the air,--he lets go,--the noose
+catches her neck,--the hunter's horse turns suddenly off, and the rope,
+securely attached to the saddle, brings the poor captive headlong to the
+ground. The trained horse keeps a strain on the noose sufficient to
+prevent her from rising, while the hunter dismounts and secures his
+prize. The colts shared the same fate, and, with the mother, were
+subdued and made useful to the tribe.
+
+The scenes and reminiscences I have described did not prevent the matter
+of most absorbing interest to myself--the projected visit to
+"Holland"--from engaging due attention. The chief came home from the
+council full of it. He was in royal good humor, and talked about it half
+the night; but several objections arose, which it was necessary for me
+to dispose of. These were met, apparently to his full satisfaction. One
+of the most serious was the fear that the white men would revenge upon
+him the murder of Captain Eaton. I assured him that so long as I was
+with him he had nothing to fear on that score; the people were all mine,
+and would do, or refrain from doing, whatever I should bid them. They
+would not dare to lift their hands against him contrary to my orders, or
+refuse to deliver what articles I chose to demand. Nothing, I found,
+would do, but the assertion of absolute supremacy over all white men
+whatever, the world around; less than this would not secure the
+confidence of these savages, and I regulated my speech by the
+necessities of the case. The chief inquired, half a dozen times over,
+what I would say to the white men, and I as often rehearsed an address
+for the occasion. At last his curiosity seemed abated, and we fell
+asleep.
+
+Early the next morning we were up and stirring, and the chief having
+adjusted his toilet with care, a slight breakfast was made ready. This
+over, his highness stood forth, and from the door of his lodge made an
+official address to the tribe, wherein he set out the advantages of a
+visit to "Holland," and suggested the most expedient style of making it.
+He advised that a few only of the tribe should be deputed, with himself,
+to accompany me, and receive the stores of rum, tobacco, bread, rice,
+tea, butter, beads, brass, copper, and so forth, that were to be
+forthcoming, as the expression of my gratitude for the distinguished
+consideration with which they had treated me. Though royal speeches
+seldom excite any jealousy of plagiarism, and it may seem a little
+captious on my part to make such a charge, it is due to "the truth of
+history" to declare, that herein the great Parosilver did but repeat a
+suggestion which he did me the honor to receive with favor over-night.
+It was not deemed essential to the case to inform his highness of _all_
+the reasons that led me to wish for as small an escort as the nature of
+the business would admit. On the contrary, acting upon the profound
+maxim, that one _sufficient_ reason is as good as a dozen, and better
+than that number of questionable ones, I merely advised, that, after the
+experience which Captain Eaton and others had had of Patagonian prowess,
+the sight of too many of his giants would frighten away the whites, and
+prevent all beneficial communication with them; while the presence of a
+small deputation would be a pledge of their pacific inclinations. The
+speech from the throne proved less _moving_ than most of the chief's
+effusions: his lieges listened with great interest, and an earnest
+debate sprung up, at the conclusion of which it was decided that the
+chief, with four other Indians and their squaws, should be my
+body-guard, the rest of the tribe to follow after. Another old woman
+begged to go with us, which was agreed to. The horse I had been in the
+habit of riding was lame, and unfit for service; another was procured
+for me.
+
+Our simple preparations for departure were soon made, and as we were
+about to start they all began bringing their dirty children to me, and
+requesting that I would bring brass and beads for them all; which was
+gravely promised, much to their satisfaction. There remained the last
+act in the comedy for which I had been long rehearsing,--if, indeed, it
+did not turn out a tragedy. The idea had early occurred to me, that if I
+had some object to which I appeared very much attached, it might prove
+to be for my advantage; the Indians might hold it, in my absence at any
+time, as a sort of surety for my return. A belle from among the beauties
+of the tribe would be effectual to that end; but, if no sentiments of
+virtue had restrained me from this expedient, the filth and
+unsightliness of them all were enough to insure continence. I chose,
+therefore, a little white dog for a pet,--a dirty, thievish little
+rascal;--but I fondled him in the style proper to a violent attachment.
+It is true that when I saw him licking the meat designed for our repast
+it was not easy to refrain from kicking his worthless brains out; but
+this was a trifle to other things I had to endure, and I made myself
+apparently so fond of him that the reality of the case was never
+suspected. Now and then I indemnified myself by giving him, when
+unobserved, a smart rapping for his misdeeds, though such chastisement
+made but a slight impression on the object of it. As we were about
+setting out, I was asked if I intended to take my dog. No, I told them,
+he would be better off there, and when I returned he should have some
+bread and other dainties to eat. The ruse more than answered its
+expected end, in lulling all suspicion of my sincerity.
+
+At last we were under way. The grand crisis to which all my diplomacy
+and the utmost license of fiction had tended was near at hand. A strong
+hope of deliverance braced my spirits, shaded, it is true, by a natural
+apprehension of possible failure, and of the consequences that might
+follow. With no great elation of spirits, but with a stern, severe
+tension of all my mental energies, and a concentration of them into one
+focus of resolve, I waved a farewell, which I hoped might be
+everlasting, to the accursed gang of robbers who had tormented me so
+many tedious weeks. "Good-by to Patagonia!" I mentally ejaculated, and
+struck off with my escort; but had not gone more than an eighth of a
+mile, when the party wheeled about and ordered me to follow them back to
+the camp! I remonstrated, but it was of no use, and with a heavy heart I
+found myself once more in my dirty corner of a wigwam. The horses were
+turned adrift without a word of explanation, and the Indians sat down to
+a game of cards, with as much indifference to everything else as if the
+events of the past forty-eight hours had been a feverish dream. What
+could be the meaning of it? I questioned the chief. He merely replied
+that he would go by and by,--by and by; which, being interpreted,
+probably meant when he pleased, and that convenient season might never
+arrive! After I had teased him for a long time he took me to the door of
+the lodge, and, pointing to the river, said it was "no good then;" it
+would be "good" at night. What the state of the river, which was a
+shallow stream, a branch of the Santa Cruz, had to do with the matter, I
+could not divine, and was half inclined to vote myself fairly outwitted
+by the Old Boy.
+
+The day, a long one, at last wore off, and at night we once more set
+off. We crossed the frozen marsh, and forded the river, and, after going
+about two miles, stopped for repose. We took no camp equipage, and had
+to shelter ourselves for the night under the lee of a clump of bushes.
+We thrust our feet into the thicket, while our heads lodged out of
+doors. In this interesting attitude I was made to repeat my wearisome
+detail of promises, and to rehearse once more my contemplated speech to
+the white men; which done, we dropped asleep. Waking early the next
+morning, I found my head and shoulders covered with a fleecy mantle of
+snow. Would the fortune of my expedition fall as lightly on me? I shook
+it off, turned up my coat-collar, pulled my poor, more than half
+worn-out cap over my ears, and so, partially protected from the storm,
+rolled over, and again sunk into a slumber. The storm ceased at dawn of
+day. I rose and went in search of fuel, while my dark companions still
+slept profoundly. In an hour or two they roused themselves, and kindled
+a fire. Meat, from a store brought along for our provision on the way,
+was cooked, and served for breakfast. The scanty meal being despatched,
+our horses were driven in, lassoed, mounted, and we resumed our journey,
+in a south-easterly direction. At the end of about three miles another
+halt was called, a fire was built to warm by, and the horses were
+watered. The order of arrangements was discussed, and a fresh edition of
+the promises and the speech critically listened to. Changing our course
+a little to the right, we soon struck the Santa Cruz. The Indians
+pointed far down the stream, and said, "There is Holland." I strained my
+eyes in the direction pointed out, and thought I could discern an island
+with several small huts upon it. A mile or two further on the north bank
+brought us to the mouth of the river, in prospect of the Atlantic. The
+island was directly opposite the mouth, and the lower part only appeared
+to be inhabited. We halted. The Indians pointed towards it, exclaiming,
+"Esta Holland sarvey! muchas casas, mucho mucho hombres, tene mucho
+aquadiente, mucho travac, yeruen, arenar, arose!"--This is Holland, and
+has plenty of houses, and abundance of men,--plenty of rum, tobacco,
+bread, tea, flour and rice! I surveyed the spot in silence. This island
+was of considerable extent, lying two-thirds across the wide mouth of
+the river, its surface dotted over with little knolls or hillocks of
+earth. Could it be that these were dwellings inhabited by white men?
+
+Our horses' heads were now turned from the shore, and we rode back about
+an eighth of a mile to a large clump of bushes, unsaddled our beasts,
+and waited some time for the rest of our company, who had fallen in the
+rear. They came at last, our horses were turned adrift, fire was
+lighted, and, as the day was far spent, supper was in order. Then ensued
+a repetition--a final one, I trusted--of the grand present to be levied
+on the Hollanders, and of the speech which was to draw them out. The
+Indians arranged that I was to hoist the English flag,--the colors of
+the unfortunate brig Avon, which they had brought along at my
+request,--and then to walk the shore to attract the attention of the
+islanders. On the approach of a boat, I was to be kept back from the
+beach, to prevent escape; for I found that they were not, after all, as
+well assured of my good faith as might have been desirable. They
+thought, moreover, that when the white men saw a prisoner with them,
+they would come ashore to parley, and offer presents to effect his
+release; in that case, there might be a chance, if the negotiation
+proved unsatisfactory, to take bonds of fate in the form of another
+captive or two. So, at least there was ground to suspect,--and some
+cause to fear that the rascals might prove too shrewd for all of us!
+
+After talking till a late hour, the Indians threw themselves upon the
+ground, stuck their feet into the bushes, and were soon fast asleep. I
+consulted the chief as to the propriety of modifying this arrangement,
+by placing our heads, rather than our feet, under cover, since both
+could not be accommodated. He declined any innovations, and told me to
+go to sleep. I stretched myself on the ground, but as to sleep, that was
+out of the question. I lay all night, thinking over all possible
+expedients for escape. We had no materials for a boat or raft of any
+description, and it was impossible to think of any plan that promised
+success; so that, after tossing, in body and mind, through the weary
+hours of night, I could only resolve to wait the course of events, and
+to take advantage of the first opportunity affording a reasonable hope
+of deliverance from this horrid captivity. Snow, sleet and rain, fell
+during the night; and I rose early, thoroughly chilled, every tooth
+chattering. A fire was kindled, and the last morsel of meat that
+remained to us was cooked and eaten. The weather continued squally till
+the middle of the afternoon.
+
+After breakfast the chief went with me to the shore, bearing the flag.
+On the beach I found a strip of thick board, to which I fastened the
+colors, and then planted it in the sand. The bushes around, which have a
+kind of oily leaf and readily ignite, were set on fire. I then walked
+the beach,--but no boat came. When it cleared up sufficiently to see, I
+observed little objects moving about on the island. The day wore away
+with fruitless attempts to attract their attention. With an aching heart
+I returned, at dark, to the camping-ground. On this island my hopes had
+so long centred,--if they were now to be disappointed, how could I
+endure it? The Indians began to talk of rejoining the tribe the
+following day. I opposed the motion with all the dissuasives at command,
+assuring them that, at sight of our flag, the islanders would surely
+come over in a boat, and that, if they would only wait a little, they
+could go over to the island and enjoy themselves to their hearts'
+content; representing the absolute necessity that I should procure the
+rum, &c., we had talked of, and how embarrassing it would be to go back
+to the tribe empty-handed, after all that had been said, to be ridiculed
+and reproached. It would never do. Our conversation was continued till
+quite late, when we ranged ourselves, hungry and weary, for another
+night. For hours I was unable to sleep. The uncertainties of my
+situation oppressed me, and I lay restless, with anxiety inexpressible,
+inconceivable by those whom Providence has preserved from similar
+straits. It was a season of deep, suppressed, silent misery, in which
+the heart found no relief but in mute supplication to Him who was alone
+able to deliver. Towards morning, exhausted with the intensity of
+emotion acting on an enfeebled body, I slept a little, and woke at early
+dawn, to a fresh consciousness of my critical position.
+
+The weather had been fair during the night, but there were now
+indications of another snow-storm. I waited long and impatiently for my
+companions to awake, and at last started off in quest of fuel; on
+returning with which, they bestirred themselves and started a fire,
+which warmed our half-benumbed limbs. There lay the little island,
+beautiful to eyes that longed, like mine, for a habitation of
+sympathizing men, about a mile and a half distant; it almost seemed to
+recede while I gazed, so low had my hopes sunken, under the pressure of
+disappointment and bitter uncertainty. A violent snow-storm soon
+setting in, it was hidden from view; everything seemed to be against me.
+It slackened, and partially cleared up,--then came another gust, filling
+the air, and shutting up the prospect. In this way it continued till
+past noon; at intervals, as the sky lighted up, I took a fire-brand, and
+set fire to the bushes on the beach, and then hoisted the flag again,
+walking wearily to and fro, till the storm ceased, and the sky became
+clear. The chief concealed himself in a clump of bushes, and sat
+watching, with cat-like vigilance, the movements of the islanders. After
+some time, he said a boat was coming; I scarcely durst look in the
+direction indicated, lest I should experience a fresh disappointment;
+but I did look, and saw, to my great joy, a boat launched, with four or
+five men on board, and pushing off the shore. On they came; the chief
+reported his discovery, and the rest of the Indians came to the beach,
+where I was still walking backward and forward. The boat approached, not
+directly off where I was, but an eighth of a mile, perhaps, to the
+windward, and there lay on her oars.
+
+[Illustration: The Escape. Page 160.]
+
+The Indians hereupon ordered me to return to the camping-ground; but,
+without heeding them, I set off at a full run towards the boat. They
+hotly pursued, I occasionally turning and telling them to come on,--I
+only wanted to see the boat. "Stop! Stop!" they bawled. "Now, my legs,"
+said I, "if ever you want to serve me, this is the time." I had one
+advantage over my pursuers; my shoes, though much the worse for wear,
+protected my feet from the sharp stones, which cut theirs at every step;
+but, under all disadvantages, I found they made about equal speed with
+myself. As I gained a point opposite the boat, the Indians slackened
+their speed, and looked uneasily at me; the man in the stern of the
+boat hailed me, inquiring what Indians these were, what number of them,
+and how I came among them. I replied in as few words as possible, and
+told him we wished to cross to the island. He shook his head; they were
+bad fellows, he said; he could not take me with the Indians. They began
+to pull away! I made signs of distress, and waved them to return,
+shouting to them through my hands. The boat was again backed within
+hailing distance. "Will you look out for me, if I come by myself?"
+"Yes!" was the prompt reply. The Indians, all this time, had kept within
+ten or fifteen feet of me, with their hands on their knives, and
+reiterating their commands to come back, at the same time edging towards
+me in a threatening manner. "Yes, yes," I told them, "in a moment," but
+I wanted to look at the boat,--taking care, however, to make good my
+distance from them. At the instant of hearing the welcome assurance that
+I should be cared for, I drew out the watch (which I had brought,
+according to promise, to have a new crystal inserted at Holland), and
+threw it into the bushes; the salt water would spoil it, and, if I
+_should_ be retaken, the spoiling of that would be an aggravation which
+might prove fatal. At the same moment I gave a plunge headlong into the
+river; my clothes and shoes encumbered me, and the surf, agitated by a
+high wind, rolled in heavy seas upon the shore. The boat was forty or
+fifty yards off; and, as the wind did not blow square in shore, drifted,
+so as to increase the original distance, unless counteracted by the
+crew. Whether the boat was backed up towards me, I could not determine;
+my head was a great part of the time under water, my eyes blinded with
+the surf; and most strenuous exertion was necessary to live in such a
+sea. As I approached the boat I could see several guns, pointed,
+apparently, at me. Perhaps we had misunderstood each other,--perhaps
+they viewed me as an enemy! In fact, they were aimed to keep the Indians
+from following me into the water, which they did not attempt. My
+strength was fast failing me; the man at the helm, perceiving it,
+stretched out a rifle at arm's length. The muzzle dropped into the
+water, and arrested my feeble vision. Summoning all my remaining energy,
+I grasped it, and was drawn towards the boat; a sense of relief shot
+through and revived me, but revived, also, such a dread lest the Indians
+should give chase, that I begged them to pull away,--I could hold on.
+The man reached down, and seized me by the collar, and ordered his men
+to ply their oars. They had made but a few strokes, when a simultaneous
+cry broke from their lips, "Pull the dear man in! Pull the dear man in!"
+They let fall their oars, laid hold of me, and, in their effort to drag
+me over the side of their whale-boat, I received some injury; I
+requested that they would let me help myself; and, working my body up
+sufficiently to get one knee over the gunwale, I gave a spring, with
+what strength was left me, and fell into the bottom of the boat. They
+kindly offered to strip me, and put on dry clothes; but I told them, if
+they would only work the boat further from the shore, I would take care
+of myself. They pulled away, while I crawled forward, divested myself of
+my coat, and put on one belonging to one of the crew. Conversation,
+which was attempted, was impossible; it was one of the coldest days of a
+Patagonian winter,--I was chilled through, and could only articulate, "I
+ca-n't ta-lk now; I'll ta-lk by a-nd by." Some liquor, bread and
+tobacco, which had been put on board for my ransom, on supposition that
+this was what the signal meant, was produced for my refreshment. The sea
+was heavy, with a strong head-wind; so that, though the men toiled
+vigorously, our progress was slow. I was soon comfortably warmed by the
+stimulants provided, and offered to lend a hand at the oar; but the
+offer was declined. The shouts and screams of the Indians, which had
+followed me into the water, and rung hideously in my ears while
+struggling for life in the surf, were kept up till distance made them
+inaudible. Whether they found the watch, whose mysterious tick at once
+awed and delighted them, and restored it to its place of state in the
+chief's lodge, or whether it still lies rusting in the sands by the
+sea-shore, is a problem unsolved.
+
+The boat at last grounded on the northern shore of the island; Mr. Hall,
+the gentleman who commanded the party, supported my tottering frame in
+landing; and, as we stepped upon the shore, welcomed me to their island.
+I grasped his hand, and stammered my thanks for this deliverance, and
+lifted a tearful eye to Heaven, in silent gratitude to God. I was then
+pointed to a cabin near by, where a comfortable fire was ready for me.
+"Now," I heard Mr. Hall say, "let us fire a salute of welcome to the
+stranger. Make ready! present! fire!" Off went all their muskets, and a
+very cordial salute it appeared to be. He soon followed me, took me to
+his own dwelling, supplied me with dry clothing, and, above all, warmed
+me in the kindly glow of as generous a heart as ever beat in human
+bosom.
+
+I was captured by the savages on the 1st of May, and landed upon the
+island on the 7th of August.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A civilized meal--A happy evening--A survey of the
+     island--Preparation of guano--Preparations against invasion by the
+     giants--A proposal to attack them--Loyalty and revenge--Killing
+     time--Trouble in the settlement--A disagreeable situation--Arrival
+     of vessels--Countrymen--A welcome by new friends.
+
+
+After getting sufficiently thawed out, I gave a synopsis of my
+adventures. The cook presently laid the table, and brought in supper. I
+ate heartily of bread and Irish pork, and drank tea raised in Brazil,
+called _matte_. It may not compare favorably with the produce of China,
+but to me it was a delicious beverage. I had been in captivity
+ninety-seven days, living as the reader has seen. Although I partook
+freely of supper,--too freely for one in my weak condition,--I rose from
+the meal with as keen an appetite as I brought to it. I again expressed
+to Mr. Hall, on learning his name, my gratitude at finding myself,
+through his timely assistance, among friends, though a stranger. He
+cordially sympathized with me, observing that he had been a prisoner
+among the Patagonians for one day only, but had seen enough in that
+short time to be convinced that a life of ninety-seven days with them
+must have been dreadful indeed.
+
+After supper the boat was hauled up on the island. Pipes and tobacco
+were furnished, and I passed in the society of my deliverers one of the
+happiest evenings of my whole life. The change was so great, from the
+miserable and almost hopeless existence I had so long lived, that my joy
+exceeded all bounds. My heart overflowed with gratitude. Words could not
+then, and cannot now, convey any adequate impression of my feelings,--of
+the freedom and joy that animated me, on being snatched from perils,
+privations and enemies, and placed, as in a moment, in security, in
+plenty, and in the society of friends. It seemed like a dream, the
+change was so sudden and so total.
+
+The little house which for the present I called my home, and which, in
+fact, appeared to me at the time the pleasantest dwelling I had ever
+seen, was about twelve by fifteen feet upon the ground, built of boards
+and scantling, and lined with blue Kentucky jean. The fireplace was in
+the middle of one end, and a door opened at the opposite extremity. Two
+large closets were parted off, the one used as a cupboard, and the other
+for stores. Each side was lighted by a window containing four panes of
+seven-by-nine glass. Two comfortable settees, probably saved from some
+wreck, lined the sides of the room, and a good-sized hardwood table
+occupied the centre. It was floored overhead, and a trap-door opened
+into a sleeping apartment, fitted with two little berths,--one for Mr.
+Hall, and the other for Morrison, the Scotchman.
+
+As we have described the interior of our snug little cottage, we will
+bestow a word or two on its exterior and surroundings. Its cracks and
+joints, over the roof and walls, were covered with strips of tarred
+duck, and battened with narrow pieces of thin board. It was situated on
+a little mound of guano, perhaps four feet high, and was banked up to
+the windows with the same material. The height of the walls above the
+embankment was about seven feet, the embankment three feet more. A
+ship's bell was suspended on the north-east corner of the house, to
+notify the workmen of the hours of labor and of their meals. Sea Lion
+Island, as it is called,--the name "Holland" was probably corrupted by
+the Indians, from the word _island_, indistinctly pronounced in their
+hearing,--is about a mile and a quarter long from north to south, with
+an average width of an eighth of a mile, and is covered over its entire
+surface with low evergreen bushes. The settlement was made by an English
+company, for the purpose of collecting guano and preparing it for
+exportation, and was situated on the southern extremity.
+
+Our social evening was prolonged to a late hour, the moments sped by the
+stimulus of novel enjoyment. One of the settees was assigned for my
+couch, bed-clothes were provided, and a bag filled with ships' colors
+and other articles served for a pillow. Before committing ourselves to
+repose, however, we discussed the probability of an invasion from the
+continent, and came to the conclusion that nothing was to be feared in
+that quarter before morning. Old Boy and his party, it was obvious,
+would have to return to the main body of the tribe for reinforcements
+and naval equipage before attempting pursuit, as they had no materials
+for the construction of boats or rafts, even if they would dare to tempt
+salt water in their leathern sacks. We accordingly dismissed the subject
+for the time, and Mr. Hall and the Scotchman, having cared for my
+comfort with anxious kindness, disappeared through the trap-door,
+leaving behind a friendly benediction. The little cottage was warm; my
+couch was the perfection of comfort, in contrast with that which had
+been my lot for ninety-seven wretched nights. Above all, for the first
+time in so many weeks, I could lie down without the fear of treachery
+and violence. I was secure from savages. This indeed was luxury. I slept
+soundly, vying in the profundity of slumber with the immortal seven,
+till late in the morning. Daylight at length had dispossessed the
+darkness of every part of the interior, and I awoke. It was no dream. I
+was indeed free. Rude but unmistakable evidences of civilization
+surrounded me. The adventures of the preceding day flashed vividly on my
+hitherto clouded mind,--the suspense, the struggle, the seasonable
+rescue, the rejoicing welcome, the spontaneous and subduing
+kindnesses,--and a warm gush of tender and grateful emotion from my
+inmost soul thrilled and suffused my whole being. While these emotions
+were subsiding from the fervor of their first impulse, and the mind was
+gliding away into a delicious and confused revery, wherein all manner of
+delight seemed to encircle me as with an atmosphere, in whose genial
+glow all past suffering existed only for the heightening of present
+enjoyment, the trap-door overhead was lifted, and my generous friends
+dropped down with a hearty salutation. I sprang from my couch, as good
+as new, and younger than ever. A cheerful coal-fire was soon burning in
+the grate, the room was swept, breakfast was brought in and despatched,
+the bell rang, and the men issued forth to their daily labors, while I
+went out to explore my new abode.
+
+The island is low and flat, and at high water its surface is only eight
+or ten feet above the water-line; but the tide here rises and falls
+about the same height as at the eastern mouth of the Straits of
+Magellan,--nearly forty-two feet. Within twenty-five feet of our house
+was a small store-house and shed, a hog-sty, and a large stone oven.
+About the same distance further on, was a house for workmen, framed of
+timber, and roofed and laid up at the sides with bushes; and the sides
+were banked and the roof coated with earth, an old sail forming the
+topmost and outermost feature of the edifice,--except that on one
+extremity of the roof a headless barrel communicated with the fireplace,
+and did duty very respectably as chimney and ventilator. There were no
+windows; the men, and whatever portion of light and air sufficed them,
+found ingress and egress through a door in one end. It was most
+evidently made for use, not for show; but appeared to be very
+comfortable, and was neatly fitted up with berths and benches, a table
+and cooking apparatus. Its occupants were eight in number,--three
+Frenchmen, two Spaniards, an Englishman, a Welshman and an Irishman; so
+that, the island having adopted (for a season, at least) a
+representative of the "universal Yankee nation," may be thought to have
+brought together samples from a pretty considerable part of mankind.
+
+Besides these human specimens, the settlement boasted of a dog, two
+mature porkers, and a litter of pigs. Near the house was a large heap of
+guano, prepared and ready for shipping to England and the United States.
+The men were at work hard by digging it up. It lies on the surface of
+the ground to a depth of from one to three feet; is dug up and conveyed
+in barrows to a cleared spot, where it lies in heaps, to be sifted.
+Stones, feathers, sticks, and other foreign substances, are carefully
+removed, the larger lumps are broken up, and the cleared guano is spread
+out in a thin layer; when thoroughly dried, it is covered up with
+planks. The business was carried on by Captain Matthew S. White, an
+Englishman, who had then been absent for several months at Montevideo,
+whither he had gone to procure vessels for conveying the guano already
+prepared, now amounting to some fifteen hundred tons, to market. The
+time he fixed for his return had expired a month before my advent upon
+the island, and Mr. Hall was beginning to feel very anxious for him,
+fearing lest some accident had befallen him, and anxious for himself and
+his company, also, as they had but a few months' provisions; the island
+was rarely visited by vessels, and their only means of reaching any
+port, in case of extremity, were the ship's long-boat, and a whale-boat,
+both too small to undertake so long a voyage with any hope of safety.
+
+The possibility that my late hospitable friends on the main land might
+be led, by their high consideration for me, to visit "Holland" in a
+body, kept us busy, during the day, in making preparations to receive
+them with appropriate honors. Mr. Hall, who was left in charge of the
+settlement during the absence of the proprietor, observed that Captain
+White had often expressed apprehensions that the Indians would come upon
+the island, some time when he was away, and murder all hands. My
+slipping from them in the manner I had was not an event likely to
+dissuade them from the attempt, or weaken their motives for making it.
+There were two swivels in the camp, which we mounted upon wheelbarrows,
+to serve as flying artillery. I ground sharp an old whaling-harpoon,
+and fixed a handle to it; this was slung over my couch; and a large
+sheath-knife, for use in case we got to close quarters, reposed under my
+pillow. The Indians were prowling about the shore, probably expecting to
+see me reappear among them, laden with the rum and tobacco they came
+after, and which they had earned by boarding and lodging me so long, and
+by the multiplied kindnesses with which they beguiled the months of my
+residence among them. It is likely they think, by this time, that I have
+been gone a long time for it.
+
+Before retiring for the night, we loaded our swivels to the muzzle, and
+fired them, to let our neighbors know that we had the wherewithal to
+give them a warm reception, should they see fit to make us a visit. We
+then reloaded the pieces, each with a dozen or more large bullets,
+placed them ready primed at the door, and covered the primings, to keep
+our powder dry. We had six or eight muskets ready loaded, enough to arm
+the entire garrison, with plenty of ammunition. The dog was tied to the
+doorhandle, to give notice of danger, and the door carefully secured.
+Just as we were about retiring, Bose gave a portentous bow wow! but, on
+going out, and taking a survey of the premises, the alarm proved to be
+false. All was quiet; and, with a momentary doubt of the sagacity and
+discretion of our sentinel, we lay down with a sense of security,--first
+taking the axe into the house, thinking that the cunning rogues might
+try to burn us out, should they find the efforts to dislodge us
+otherwise ineffectual. With this final precaution, our faithful sentinel
+chained to his post, like a Chinese soldier to his gun, we were soon
+sound asleep. The night passed quietly away, without any further alarm
+from our look-out, who was of the English pointer breed,--a sleepy,
+dough-faced fellow, better qualified to show the game than to occupy the
+responsible station to which he was promoted. He was a great coward, but
+that was not altogether against him; for, since the law of
+self-preservation applies to brutes as well as to men, fear would impel
+him to make some kind of demonstration on the approach of foes, if
+fidelity did not; and one kind of demonstration would be as useful to us
+as another, if only audible.
+
+After breakfast I walked forth, and cast an anxious look through the
+glass to the northern shore of the main land, to see if the Indians
+still occupied their position, and whether they were building boats, or
+making any other preparations for invasion. There they were,--the
+patient creatures!--still posted in view of our quarters, the English
+flag flying on the beach. There were several dogs on the shore, and
+among them I recognized my own; I almost fancied I could hear him
+barking. As we brought no dogs with us, I concluded that they had gone
+back to the main body, and got a reinforcement, with materials for
+boat-building, and brought my dog for the especial gratification of his
+affectionate master; and now he was capering about on the shore, as if
+to call me back. Having sufficiently gratified my curiosity in this
+direction, I turned the glass seaward, in hope to view some approaching
+sail but the broad expanse was clear,--no vessel to be seen. On the
+river banks a few stray guanacos were cropping the scanty, rank grass,
+while others, with their young, were lying on the sunny slopes of the
+sand-hills. The quiet of these animals assured me that their inveterate
+enemies, the Indians, were not in the vicinity.
+
+Tired, at length, of this sort of sight-seeing, I returned to the house,
+and, taking our guns, started with Mr. Hall on a stroll up the island,
+hoping to shoot some sea-fowl; but returned at noon, unsuccessful. The
+afternoon was spent in wandering aimlessly over the island, killing
+time. Walking about on the sea-shore, I picked up some clear,
+transparent stones, coated on the outside with a kind of crust; some of
+them are very hard, and, when broken, cut glass like a diamond. I wrote
+my name, and place of residence, on a window of our little cottage, with
+a fragment of one; they are mostly white, some of them of a vermilion,
+and others of a straw color; they are, I suppose, a variety of quartz.
+The shore is, in some places, covered with these pebbles to the depth of
+two or three feet, on an average of the size of a walnut; the hardest
+specimens were not abundant, but I collected about a hundred of them. I
+might have picked up many more, if they had possessed any special value.
+
+A further examination of the opposite shore disclosed Indians still
+prowling about, and I proposed to Mr. Hall to go over, with the men, and
+give them a sound drubbing. Revenge, I know, is said to dwell in little
+minds; if so, my abode in Patagonia must have dwarfed and contracted my
+own intellect for the time being, for I must confess to the
+consciousness of a desire to visit upon them some appropriate return for
+what they had inflicted upon me. Mr. Hall admitted the ill-desert of the
+Indians, and the entire rightfulness of a severe chastisement; but, not
+having the same stimulus to heat his blood that burned within me, he
+viewed the question with a more strict regard to prudence, and was
+altogether disinclined to undertake so hazardous an expedition; he
+dreaded going any nearer to the savages than was necessary. I would,
+myself, rather have been shot than fall into their hands a second time;
+but contended that the approach of the boat would bring them to the
+shore, and enable us to do them a mischief from the boat, without any
+necessity of landing among them. True, the Indians _might_ succeed in
+getting upon the island some night, and effect our destruction; there
+certainly was nothing to prevent it, if they had the least ingenuity,
+and a moderate share of courage; but I knew them to be a gang of arrant
+cowards, and the reader may judge of their inventiveness by the
+preceding narrative. The subject was discussed till late in the evening,
+and the needful preparations and precautions were thoroughly talked
+over. When about to retire for the night, we went out and looked for our
+vigilant sentinel, whose due place, in right of his office, should have
+been at the door. Recreant to his trust, the rascal had deserted, to
+take up his night's lodging with the pigs. He was soon hustled out of
+his nest, and compelled to return to the door, there to be tied, as on
+the preceding night, to the handle. His choice of such mean company
+greatly lowered the animal in my estimation. While fixing him in his
+place, we perceived a light on the north shore; it appeared to be
+carried about from place to place, and was at some distance from the
+Indians' wigwams. This had much the appearance of preparation for a
+nocturnal visit from the rascals,--a symptom of boat-building. From my
+observation of their habits while among them, I was convinced that
+something extraordinary was on foot; they were not much in the habit of
+moving about after dark, with or without lights, and nothing but the
+pressure of an unaccustomed purpose could have made them so enterprising
+now. We uncovered the priming of our swivels, and greased their muzzles,
+to make them speak in a louder tone of warning and defiance to the
+enemy; they were discharged with a loud report, that made the island
+ring, and must have resounded with effect upon the hostile shore. The
+guns were reloaded, primed, and mounted upon their carriages at the
+door. The lights that had drawn forth this sonorous demonstration
+speedily disappeared; the Indians, it was presumed, had taken the hint,
+and abandoned or postponed their undertaking, whatever it might have
+been. I well knew their dread of big guns. When I attempted, at first,
+to persuade them to go with me to Port Famine, the chief reason
+assigned, besides the superior advantages of "Holland," was, that there
+were big guns there, which were "no good for Indians." A council of war
+came to the conclusion that there was nothing to be feared from them
+that night, and we thereupon retired.
+
+If our careful preparations seem to belie my expressed belief of their
+cowardice, it should be remembered that they had once fleshed their
+swords, if not their teeth, in the bodies of some white men, and had
+held, for a brief period, islanders in their custody; they were
+numerous, and might so far confide in their numbers and strength as to
+dare the attempt to wreak their disappointments fully upon our heads.
+Our caution was reasonable, and, at the time, was not excessive in
+degree. In the morning we made a careful survey of the premises,
+exploring all the sheds, and every other place where an enemy could have
+secreted himself, but made no discoveries. We walked over the island,
+and examined the opposite shore; but perceived nothing strange or
+alarming, except that the Indians still remained in their quarters, and
+that their numbers had greatly increased.
+
+The question of crossing over and driving them off was revived after
+breakfast, but, after considerable talk, no definite conclusion was
+reached, and I spent the day wandering over the island, gunning and
+picking up rare stones, occasionally surveying the coast through the
+glass. At night no lights appeared opposite; and having made our usual
+preparations against a nocturnal attack, we decided that if the black
+rascals did not speedily pick up their traps, and make themselves
+"scarce," we would go over and hurry their movements. Mr. Hall found his
+loyalty stirring within him, in aid of revenge. He said it was too much
+to see that blood-stained British flag flying among such a miserable set
+of creatures, bringing freshly before his mind the forms of his
+slaughtered countrymen. This sentiment I was prompt to encore, and to
+enforce the propriety of an invasion to wrest the trophy from their
+hands. This was determined upon for the next day, unless they should
+sooner relieve us of their presence.
+
+The day dawned with a cloudy sky and a thick atmosphere, which made it
+impossible to see distinctly for any distance. Towards noon it cleared
+up, and we discovered that our troublesome neighbors were still there.
+We thereupon set about the necessary preparations for a movement,
+immediately after dinner. Arms and equipments were appointed, knives
+sharpened, guns put in order and stacked against the house;--the bell
+rang for dinner, and we ate with appetites sharpened by excitement. But,
+on going out, and taking a final look through the glass before
+embarking, we observed the Indians catching their horses. They speedily
+mounted their beasts, and rode off. Our anticipated valor was soon
+cooled. They had slipped away without giving us a chance to do anything
+for revenge, for justice, or for the honor of the captive flag. On the
+whole, we were not sorry to abandon the expedition, though it seemed to
+me that our chances of security were not much improved by their
+departure. They would be very likely to lurk in the vicinity, and to
+return with full preparations for crossing and landing upon the island.
+Perhaps their movement was only a ruse to put us off our guard. Such
+thoughts crowded my mind; but there was no use in borrowing trouble, and
+I dismissed them.
+
+The men returned to their work, and I set myself to devise some
+employment. I had become tired of idleness, and offered to assist in the
+preparation of guano; but Mr. Hall interposed a decided veto. He wished
+me, he said, to make myself entirely contented, and as comfortable as
+possible. But the sort of life I was leading was very decidedly
+uncomfortable; and I entreated so earnestly to be allowed to make myself
+useful in some way, that he set me to make a row-lock for a boat, or a
+few thole-pins, or some other trivial things, that served to occupy
+attention and divert the mind. Then our cottage wanted a new floor, and
+some alterations were found necessary about the premises. When
+everything was done, and no more was suggested, I was desired to go a
+gunning, to vary the supplies for the table, or to take a basket and
+pick the tops of the bushes for pickling. The bushes, which are
+evergreen, have on their tops little clusters not unlike barberries,
+that make a very fine pickle. Several jars were filled, and furnished an
+excellent condiment for our suppers.
+
+Time passed on, and the non-arrival of Captain White made it drag
+slowly. I had thought to take passage in one of the guano vessels to Rio
+Janeiro, or some other South American port, from which it might be easy
+to obtain a passage for California. In default of other occupation, the
+large lighter, which lay up the creek, two-thirds the length of the
+island, was brought down opposite the house for repair, to be in
+readiness to load the ships when they should arrive. Their delay
+threatened us with famine, moreover, and it was beginning to be felt as
+a very serious matter. To add to our troubles, the scurvy broke out
+among the men, in consequence of living on salt provisions, without
+vegetables. They had been recommended, as a preventive, to make and eat
+freely of the pickle just described; but, either from want of faith in
+the virtue of the prescription, or because it was too much trouble, they
+had neglected to do so, and now found themselves in a poor plight.
+
+About the same time, as troubles
+
+          "come not single spies,
+    But in battalions,"
+
+Mr. Hall was informed by the Welshman, who appeared very friendly, that
+Morrison, the Scotchman, was trying to prejudice the Frenchmen and
+Spaniards against him, and inciting the men to mutiny. The man had lived
+in the house and been treated like a gentleman, and this was all the
+return he made for the preference shown him. Sawney's goods and
+chattels were forthwith thrown out of doors, and he was ordered to take
+his bed and board with the men. He took this descent in the world very
+much to heart, and when I talked with him on the impropriety of his
+conduct, appeared quite penitent. I strongly advised Mr. Hall to take
+him back into the house; for, though he had proved treacherous, it was
+better, after all, to have him under our immediate watch than with the
+men, as he might, in a short time, infect the whole company. After much
+coaxing, consent was given to his return, and he replaced his things in
+the house with much apparent gratitude. He was told that he must show
+himself an honest man, and labor to undo the mischief he had done, if he
+had any care of his personal safety; for should any trouble break out,
+and the sacrifice of life become necessary, his would be the first. He
+faithfully promised, and, I doubt not, exerted himself to allay
+discontents and prevent any outbreak. With the Spaniards he was
+successful; but the Frenchmen were more turbulent, and determined on a
+rupture. They complained that their allowance of food was insufficient,
+and threatened to break into the store-house and help themselves. Mr.
+Hall had served out their daily rations of meat, bread and flour, by
+weight, according to the directions of Captain White. The quantity I
+have forgotten, but remember Mr. Hall saying that it was the same as is
+allowed per man in the British navy. When the bell rang for work the
+next morning, the Welshman and Irishman alone went. The Spaniards said
+that they had the scurvy so badly they were unable to work; the
+Frenchmen marched up to the house, and peremptorily demanded more flour.
+Mr. Hall met them at the door; and, in reply, told them that they had
+the same food, in quality and quantity, with all the others, himself
+included, and that the allowance for the house proved to be more than we
+needed. None of the other men complained, and their complaints could not
+be listened to by him. They had all that Captain White allowed, and, if
+they were not satisfied, they could appeal to him when he returned,
+which would undoubtedly be very soon. Meanwhile he advised them "to be
+quiet, and do their own business." They left in a very wrathful mood,
+not to their work, but to their quarters, and to idle away the rest of
+the day in sauntering up and down the island. They went on in this way
+for nearly a week, and at last consented to return to duty, under a
+promise that nothing should be deducted from their wages, which was
+given as a matter of prudence. It was not thought safe, in present
+circumstances, to strain authority over them. Nothing occurred to give
+serious uneasiness, though the men were so touchy and quarrelsome as to
+raise a slight tempest, now and then. On one occasion, Mr. Hall had been
+with three men up the creek, seven or eight miles, after fresh water,
+which could only be obtained at that distance and boated down to the
+settlement. While we were unlading the boat, a row was kicked up between
+one of the Frenchmen and the Welshman. Taffy, who was a thorough seaman,
+when adjusting the ropes to the casks, was assailed by one of the
+Frenchmen with some derogatory remark touching his seamanship, prompted
+by his mode of "putting on the parbuckle." The critic attempted to take
+the rope into his own hands, by way of enforcing and exemplifying his
+view of the process; and the two were on the point of settling the
+question in a summary fashion, in a spirit which it required some effort
+to quell.
+
+The Indians still hovered in the vicinity of the further shore, as the
+smoke of their fires plainly indicated, and we were obliged to keep up
+our preparations for defence. There was nothing to prevent them from
+paying us a visit but their cowardice; and knowing their revengeful
+tempers, and the tenacity of their purposes,--the long-lived malice with
+which they were capable of pursuing any evil designs,--it seemed not
+unlikely that, smarting under the disappointment I had caused them,
+their resentment would prove strong enough to overcome their timidity.
+In this connection I had an unpleasant thought, now and then, of a hint
+given them while we were on our way to "Holland." When about a mile
+distant from the shore, I picked up a bit of plank, and somewhat rashly,
+in the impetuosity of desire to contrive ways and means to get to the
+island, in case the islanders could not be attracted towards us, told
+the Indians that, if we could find two or three more of the same sort, I
+could bind them together and make a raft, on which I might be paddled
+over to "Holland." I informed them, moreover, what was the most
+favorable time for crossing; namely, at the last of the tide, as the
+distance to be passed would be less, and there would be no difficulty in
+effecting a landing on the island. No additional materials presented
+themselves, and the scheme was given up; happily there was no need of
+it. But, less happily, it now occurred to me that what I then spoke in
+my own behoof might be turned by the Indians to theirs, to our no small
+danger, in case a more earnest and vigorous search should disclose,
+along-shore, more abundant materials for extemporizing transport craft.
+
+Some of the men became so sorely afflicted with the scurvy that we
+decided to land on the south shore and chase some of the guanaco for
+fresh provision. Two of the Frenchmen accompanied us. Just as we were
+getting off, their countryman who was left behind came running to us,
+with angry jabber and gesture, vociferating that one of them had his
+gun. He seized it and was taking it out of the boat, when the party
+dispossessed of it disputed his progress, and a regular French fight of
+kicking and fisticuffs ensued, which we had difficulty in subduing. At
+last we got off, but discovered only a lone guanaco in a hollow between
+the hills. We posted ourselves to surround him for a shot. When he came
+out I had a fine chance at him as he crossed the top of the hill, and
+made quite sure of him. Unluckily, the flint-lock missed fire, and,
+before it was possible to burn any powder, our expected prey escaped. We
+cruised about for several miles, and returned home tired and empty.
+
+The men continued their work, as usual, the next day; but a storm was
+brewing. On the following morning the Frenchmen marched up to the house,
+and demanded their wages. They were told by Mr. Hall that he had none of
+the proprietor's money, nor any authority to settle with them. Then they
+would work no longer. Very well, they were told, they might let work
+alone, but their wages and rations could not be meddled with on demand.
+So they indulged in another season of idleness and mischief. Their first
+revenge was taken on old "John," the horse. On the second day of their
+mutiny the poor animal was seen to halt; a hamstring was cut. He was
+very fat, and was probably marked by them for food, in default of fresh
+provision. At all events, Mr. Hall ordered him, as he was useless, to
+be so dealt with. The men's rations were served out, and the rest was
+laid up in the store-house for future use. "Horse-beef" has a strong and
+singular flavor. I had become accustomed to such diet among the
+Patagonians, though never privileged to partake of so fat a specimen as
+old John.
+
+Not knowing to what height the mutinous spirit of his men might carry
+them, Mr. Hall wrote a brief statement of his affairs, and an account of
+my arrival on the island, and enclosed them, together with what money
+and valuable papers he had, in a tin box, which he buried at night in a
+guano-heap. That would certainly be removed on Capt. White's arrival, or
+by some one else, if he never returned; so that our tale would not be
+lost, even though we should not survive to tell it. The desperate
+character of the men,--all but one or two of whom, as we had reason to
+believe, had left their country for their country's good,--and the
+recklessness of their behavior, made our situation rather ticklish. Our
+fear of the Indians, moreover, was not laid entirely to sleep, though
+all visible tokens of their neighborhood to us had disappeared. By
+passing up and crossing the river, they might approach us from the south
+shore, which was separated from the island by a channel not more than
+half as broad as that on the opposite side. The bank, to be sure, was
+steep and muddy, involving the risk that they would be hopelessly
+bemired in attempting to land; but this was a weak security against
+them, if they were resolute enough to make the effort. Nothing occurred
+for several days to break the monotony of life. No work was done; the
+men received their allowances twice a week, spending their time in
+wandering over the island. The large boat needed repairs, but they
+rendered no aid. We took advantage of high water, rove tackles, and, by
+the help of rollers, drew it up high and dry on the land. When it was
+finished,--through fear that the men might seize it and make off to some
+place northward, thus depriving us of our only means of escape, if our
+provisions should be exhausted before Capt. White's return,--it was
+turned over, and the sails and oars were secured, as far as possible,
+from depredation.
+
+Old John was devoured, to the partial relief of the company; but some
+were still badly affected with scurvy. Yet we were afraid to go any
+distance in search of fresh provisions, on account of the risk of
+finding Indians about. The carcass of a guanaco, just killed by the
+dogs, was picked up in time to afford a sensible alleviation of
+suffering, and to replenish our rapidly wasting stock of provisions.
+Indians without, discontent and mutiny within, and the possibility of
+famine, together, would have made the island anything but a paradise to
+one who had not so lately escaped the purgatorial pains of a Patagonian
+captivity. The first of these disagreeables, however, began to be less
+vividly felt. We got tired of sweeping the horizon with our glass in
+search of the smoke of their camp-fires, or other appearances suggesting
+their vicinity, and gradually relaxed our vigilance. Bose was released
+from his sentry duties, and suffered to exchange such unwilling service
+for the society of his friends the pigs. But we still took the axe into
+the house by night, and kept our guns loaded. The boat had to be
+launched once more, to go up the creek for water. When it was unladed,
+we got the aid of a Spaniard and Frenchman in drawing it on land, to
+prevent the rascals from stealing it, by telling them that it needed
+painting, which was true enough. The seine was next got out, to see if
+some fish could not be had for the improvement of our diet; but we got
+what is vulgarly termed "fisherman's luck," and spread the ineffectual
+net on the gravelly beach to dry. Grown desperate, at last, we decided
+that, Indians or no Indians, we _must_ have fresh provisions, if any
+were to be had, and manned the whale-boat for an expedition to the
+continent. We landed on the south shore, and succeeded in discovering
+and bringing down a solitary guanaco. The game was dressed, and we
+returned to our home in triumph. The two following days were chiefly
+spent in hunting, unsuccessfully.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day, having nothing else to pass away the
+hours, I commenced repairing the lighter, but had not been long at work
+before Mr. Hall came down, with a smile. "Look out to sea!" he
+exclaimed; "Captain White is coming." I looked as directed, and saw
+distinctly two sail approaching. A thrill of joy shot through me; I
+thought no more of work that day. An examination through the glass made
+them out to be a ship and a fore-and-aft schooner. Could it be any one
+else than Captain White? The island was not frequented by vessels except
+for guano; but it seemed very strange to see a schooner, as a vessel of
+that rig was not adapted to such a service. Mr. Hall began to think it
+might be some of General Rosas' vessels despatched to drive away people
+engaged in taking guano on the Patagonian coast. It had been reported,
+some time before, that he designed doing so. He heard the rumor a few
+months previous at Montevideo; and also another, that the Chilian
+government claimed the country, and were determined to hold it.
+
+The little schooner led the way, considerably in advance of the ship.
+As the vessels approached nearer, they presented a decidedly Yankee
+look. We watched them with intense interest, as they passed the shoals,
+and came up with a favorable breeze, under a press of sail. Soon they
+entered the river's mouth. On passing the north point the schooner stood
+up, keeping the north shore, and cast anchor. It was evident they were
+not acquainted with the navigation, as there is a large shoal running
+from the upper end of the island nearly to the mouth of the river, and
+they had sailed within it. On discovering the error, she attempted to
+keep off, but, in so doing, struck the lower end of the shoal. Mr. Hall
+manned the boat, and boarded the schooner. She proved to be the
+Washington, tender to the ship Hudson, Captain Clift, of Mystic,
+Connecticut,--a whaling vessel, just from the Falkland Islands. Mr. Hall
+promised to go on board again during the following forenoon, and pilot
+the vessel into the channel.
+
+I went with him for this purpose; and, as it was calm, the anchor was
+hove aweigh, and, with the boat ahead, we towed the schooner across the
+shoal, which at low water is plainly to be seen, but now, at flood tide,
+had plenty of water. After getting into the right position, the anchor
+was dropped, and we spent the day on board very pleasantly. The weather
+held moderate till afternoon. The ship yet lay off the mouth of the
+harbor, and made slow progress upward. The schooner, the day before,
+being so far ahead, had only daylight and wind enough to get in; and the
+ship, finding she would be benighted, as the wind sank with the sun,
+hauled on and off during the night, and then lay with scarcely wind
+enough to fill the sails. A smart breeze, however, sprung up in the
+afternoon, and she came gallantly into port, only repeating the mistake
+made by the schooner between the channels; but got off at night with the
+tide, and, after some delay, anchored securely in sufficient depth of
+water. As she intended making some stay in port, she was subsequently
+taken further up to the proper anchorage, and was moored on the 5th of
+October, having come in on the 4th.
+
+Captain Clift had been informed by the mate, who had been ashore, and by
+Mr. Hall, of my misfortunes and adventures among the Patagonians, and on
+the following day sent a message inviting me on board his vessel. He
+received me very cordially, and insisted that I should make his ship my
+home as long as it should suit my convenience to do so. I accepted his
+kind offer, first going on shore, and communicating it to my liberal
+benefactor, Mr. Hall. He at once assented that it would undoubtedly be
+pleasanter to be with my countrymen. I could not leave him, however,
+without endeavoring to express my earnest gratitude for my rescue from a
+captivity worse almost than death, and for the kindly sympathy and
+generous hospitality that he had exercised for two months. In my
+destitute condition I had nothing but thanks to give, and I fervently
+hoped he might never be in a situation to need the like kindness from
+others; but he was assured, that whenever or however it might be
+possible to show my gratitude in a more substantial manner, it would be
+my happiness to do so. He begged me to give myself no trouble on that
+score, insisted on my retaining the articles of clothing with which he
+had supplied me, hoped I would come often and see him while the vessels
+continued there, and I bade this noble specimen of the true-hearted
+Englishman a tearful good-by.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     A Christian ship-master--Cruise for whales, and for a
+     California-bound vessel--An outlandish craft--An American
+     vessel--Passage secured for California--Tempestuous passage through
+     the Straits of Magellan--Warlike demonstrations, with an inglorious
+     issue--Chilian penal settlement--Pleasing reception--Extensive
+     coal-mine--Sea-lions--Mutiny of the convicts, and awful fate of the
+     governor and chaplain.
+
+
+Captain Clift cordially welcomed me to his ship, and immediately
+tendered me whatever I might need for personal comfort. I declined
+availing myself of his generosity, assuring him that I could be
+comfortable with present supplies; but he insisted on replenishing my
+wardrobe, silencing all objections by the remark that I plainly needed
+the articles, and that it was a part of our duty on earth to give to the
+needy. Captain Clift was a Christian in precept and example. He had
+daily prayer on board his ship, and made his religion an inseparable
+part of himself; something more than a profession, that did not expend
+itself in words, but found expression in acts of kindness to all within
+his reach. He had on board a poor sick Irish lad, who was taken into the
+cabin, and nursed with all the care that circumstances admitted. Had
+poor Mike been his own son, he could not have done more for him. Such
+acts, incapable of being traced to any sordid or selfish motive, sprung
+spontaneously from his capacious heart, full to overflowing with the
+milk of human kindness. As the ship had been at the Falkland Islands for
+several months, where they lived exclusively upon fresh meat, it seemed
+impossible that there should be a case of scurvy on board; but the
+captain remarked that the Patagonian coast was the worst he ever visited
+in this respect.
+
+The crew, under direction of the mate, a brother of the captain, were
+busy in landing cattle, swine, empty casks and other articles, to make
+room on board for trying out whales, in case they captured any more, for
+which the schooner was getting ready to cruise up and down the coast.
+The mate went in the tender on her first trip out; but she returned, in
+three or four days, unsuccessful. A second cruise was undertaken, but in
+a week's absence only one whale was discovered, and this they failed to
+secure. A third and still longer trip was equally unsuccessful, and they
+returned not a little discouraged. During this time I had repeatedly
+exchanged visits with Mr. Hall, and felt quite comfortable in my new
+quarters; but suffered the misery of idleness, and of impatience at my
+detention, even among such generous and considerate friends. Partially
+to relieve the tedium of inactivity, in compliance with an urgent
+request for some useful employment, I was allowed to repair the ship's
+spanker. But I determined that, on the next cruise of the tender, I
+would take a berth, in the hope of falling in with some vessel bound
+around Cape Horn, or to Montevideo, Rio Janeiro, Pernambuco, or any
+other port from which it might be possible to secure a passage to
+California,--a land I was resolved at least to see, after having got so
+far on my way, though so inauspiciously.
+
+The vessel was soon ready to sail. The evening before our departure Mr.
+Hall visited me, and also came in the morning, before we were off;--the
+whole-souled fellow! I shall always pray for his happiness. Captain
+Clift added to his other kindnesses by pressing upon me various articles
+of comfort for the voyage, with a nice clothes-bag to contain them all.
+I parted from them, heartily praying a continuance of God's blessing on
+them both; adding, however, that it was very likely they would see me
+turning up among them, like a bad penny, on the return of the schooner.
+In truth, my natural buoyancy had so far died out, that but faint hopes
+of a successful termination of the voyage, begun, so long before, under
+auspices apparently cheering, now encouraged me. We hove up the anchor,
+hoisted sail, and steered out of the harbor and down the coast, running
+off and standing in on the land, in hope to fall in with whales. On the
+fourth day out, we discovered a sail coming down the coast towards us.
+It proved to be an outlandish-looking craft, from her rig appearing to
+be a Portuguese schooner. We sailed towards her with a light breeze,
+lowered our boat, and went alongside the foreigner. She had on board a
+large crew of cut-throat looking fellows, loitering about. We were not
+asked on board, but remained in the boat talking with them through one
+of our men, a Portuguese. They said they were from some place, the name
+of which I have now quite forgotten, up the Straits of Gibraltar, and
+were bound through the Straits of Magellan to California. I suggested to
+Mr. Clift the propriety of getting on board, and going to Port Famine or
+to California. He said I could do as I pleased; but that, for his own
+part, he would feel hardly willing to trust himself among them, in which
+opinion I concurred.
+
+Our Portuguese hand went on board, and talked with the captain of my
+adventures among the Indians, and of the occupation, &c., of our
+schooner. He was directed to inquire for whales, and brought us answer
+that several had been seen along the coast, some distance to the
+northward. While this conversation was going on, a tall, hairy fellow
+came up from the cabin, encased in a dark-colored cloak having a red
+collar, and stripes of the same hue running about the edge; a hood, or
+cap, of divers gaudy colors, lay back on his shoulders, and another,
+gayly and profusely variegated in hue, was perched upon his head.
+Altogether he was a comical-looking piece of human nature. He took a
+look at our vessel through the glass. In answer to an inquiry through
+our interpreter, we learned that they had passed, the day before, an
+American schooner bound that way, which could not be far off. One of the
+sailors passed some liquor to us over the side of the vessel; it was sad
+stuff, and I could only out of compliment go through with the form of
+drinking. While this little courtesy was enacting, our Esau over-head
+was scanning the horizon with his glass, and at length exclaimed that he
+saw the vessel; we turned, and distinctly perceived a sail making
+towards us.
+
+We soon returned to the tender, and stood in for the shore, in order to
+cut off the approaching stranger; anxious to meet her, I went aloft to
+the mast-head, where the view was better, and kept the mate advised of
+her course. When near enough to be watched from the deck, I came down,
+as it was impossible she could escape us. Mr. Clift offered to board
+her, and I accordingly picked up my things, ready for contingencies; the
+breeze was light, and the strange schooner approached slowly. We stood
+in till it was judged we were in her track, and then hove to, with the
+stars and stripes flying at the main gaff, as a signal that we wished to
+speak her. Presently the same beautiful flag was run up her main peak;
+on she came,--our boat was lowered, Mr. Clift jumped in with me, and we
+were rowed alongside, the schooner rounding to, and laying by for us to
+come on board. Captain Clift announced himself to the master of the
+schooner, who came to the side to receive us, and introduced me. He
+courteously invited us on board, jocosely remarking that we had a good
+many captains for one vessel, took us into the cabin, and treated us
+with the greatest civility.
+
+The schooner proved to be the Hopewell, of New Orleans, Captain Morton,
+from Antigua, and bound to San Francisco, through the Straits of
+Magellan. There were two passengers aboard, an American gentleman, and a
+Portuguese, taken aboard at Bahia. At Captain Morton's request, I gave a
+sketch of my expedition and sojourn among the cannibals. "You were bound
+to California when you embarked?" he inquired, when I had concluded; "I
+am bound there, and, if you wish to finish your voyage, you can go with
+me." My mind was relieved; I almost feared to ask a passage, but my wish
+had been anticipated,--my request generously granted before it was
+uttered. I gratefully accepted his offer; remarking that unless my
+vessel had arrived in safety, of which I had no assurance, I should find
+myself as destitute on landing as at that moment; but that he could
+leave me at Port Famine, if I became troublesome. The "John Allyne" I
+supposed to have been lost soon after my capture; I had heard nothing of
+her since. He desired me to give myself no trouble in that matter on
+_his_ account, and exerted himself to entertain us. As we were opposite
+the river Gallegos, and could easily run down to Cape Virgin during the
+night, Captain Morton felt in no hurry; and the whaling schooner was
+very well posted for observation on the coast, so that our men were well
+contented, and we had a very pleasant social interview of two or three
+hours. Finally, after partaking of some refreshments, I bade adieu to my
+excellent friend Mr. Clift, and the two vessels parted, to pursue their
+different courses.
+
+During the night, we worked our way down to the straits. I sat up quite
+late with the captain; and, when at length I retired to my state-room,
+fell soundly asleep. The next morning we were nearly opposite Cape
+Virgin, the north point of the entrance to the straits. We were rather
+wide off the cape; the wind was ahead, and a good strong breeze; we beat
+in at last, and anchored under Point Dungeness. The Portuguese schooner
+was in the offing; she worked up before night, and anchored a little to
+the windward of us. We lay at anchor through the night; the next morning
+we both got under way, with a light breeze, which lasted, however, but a
+little while, when the wind came round ahead. As we were passing Point
+Dungeness,--it was not fairly daylight, and I had not yet risen,--Mr.
+F., one of the passengers, cried out that the shore opposite was lined
+with Indians. I hurried on deck, to get a peep at them; upon looking,
+there appeared a great school of seals on the beach; they seemed to be
+standing up, and walking on their hind feet, so as to have, in the dusk,
+very much the appearance of Indians. With some difficulty we worked up
+to near the point where the John Allyne lay when I made my unlucky visit
+on shore, and came to anchor; so that I was brought back again almost to
+the starting-point of this "eventful history,"--a revolution suggestive
+of many reflections.
+
+The next day there came a heavy gale; the Portuguese schooner had
+anchored on the preceding night, in the bight of Possession Bay, further
+down. We lay heavily pitching at our anchors till afternoon, when
+Captain Morton determined to get his anchors, if possible, and run down
+to where the foreign schooner lay, thinking it might prove a safe
+anchorage. After much trouble in raising the anchors, we ran back,
+keeping the lead going, and running at a furious rate, under bare poles,
+excepting the head of the jib. The whole bay was a sheet of surf and
+foam. I began to think we had not much bettered our condition by
+removing. We anchored abreast of our Portuguese friend, but still
+dragged the anchors. We finally brought up by securing some iron
+castings we had on board to the kedge; the chain-cable was reeved
+through them,--they were let down ten or fifteen feet from the anchor.
+The small kedge thus fixed, with the weight attached to the chain,
+ploughed to the bottom, instead of being lifted out by the strain on the
+cable, thereby performing the service of one many times its weight. Our
+little vessel rode out the gale, which was of short duration; as the sun
+went down the wind subsided. We had hoisted a small sail to the
+main-mast, in shape resembling a leg of mutton, to make the vessel ride
+head to the wind, instead of lying in the trough of the sea. The tide,
+running at the time strongly against the wind, caused us to lie nearly
+broadside to the force of the gale; but this temporary sail, supplying
+the place of after-sail, caused the craft to lie more steadily. Just
+before sunset we got our anchors at the bow, and were under close-reefed
+sail, beating back to the place we left in the forenoon, near the first
+narrows. We arrived there in the evening, and again anchored; the next
+morning, with a light breeze from the eastward, we stood into the
+narrows, in company with the Portuguese schooner. Soon after we had
+passed through the narrows, the wind came ahead; we beat along, and
+anchored under Cape Gregory, a fine anchorage.
+
+Towards evening we discovered something sitting upon a high, abrupt
+sand-cliff, on the bordering shore; we could perceive, by an occasional
+movement, that it was a living creature. The object was of considerable
+interest, and was closely inspected with the glass; at last it was
+pronounced to be an Indian. The shore was closely scanned in all
+directions, to ascertain whether there were more in the vicinity; none
+were in sight, and we concluded to pay the solitary a visit; but, as
+hundreds might be concealed in the neighborhood, we armed to the teeth.
+Old flint-lock muskets, rusty with long idleness, were dragged from
+their hiding-places, and treated to a dose of oil, to limber their aged
+joints; new flints were fitted to the locks, and everything put in good
+order. The guns were heavily charged with powder and shot; pistols and
+cutlasses, dirks and bowie-knives, were all in readiness, and the boat
+was alongside, manned by the sailors ready to receive us. Mr. F., the
+first and second mates, and myself, pushed off for the shore. We landed
+at some distance from the object of our visit, that we might have a
+better opportunity to survey the country around. Before the boat fairly
+felt the bottom, the second mate jumped into the water, and ran along
+the beach, until he could see that the supposed Indian was a large bird.
+He raised his gun, and fired; the bird came tumbling down the precipice,
+and, on running up, we found it to be a large condor. The Dutchman had
+broken his wing. We caught our prize and took it on board the vessel,
+and were heartily laughed at for our pains by the captain, who had been
+viewing the onslaught through the glass. Mr. F. was teased by him many
+days for the intrepidity of his charge on the poor bird, rushing to the
+attack with a drawn sword in one hand, and a cocked pistol in the other.
+We all felt a little crest-fallen, I must admit, after having made such
+formidable preparations for an Indian fight, to return with so
+inglorious a prize; but, as none of my former tormentors could
+reasonably be supposed to have strayed to this part of the country, and
+I had no animosities towards other tribes to be gratified, I felt, on
+the whole, very well satisfied with the result. We measured the bird;
+but, as I was not "takin' notes" at the time, it is now impossible to
+give its dimensions; it was very large.
+
+The next day we commenced beating under a head-wind through the second
+narrows; but, when partially through, it commenced blowing so severely
+that we were compelled to return to our anchorage at Cape Gregory. The
+following day we double-reefed the sails, beat through the narrows, and
+anchored in Oazy Harbor. Here we went on shore, and discovered traces of
+Indians; the smoke of their fires was seen to the westward. We roamed
+about on shore for some hours, but found nothing to interest us; it was
+all exceeding bare and monotonous. The breeze continuing fresh ahead, we
+remained one day in the harbor, spending our leisure in shooting
+sea-fowls, which were very abundant. Once more we got under way, and
+anchored off the mouth of Pecket Harbor until daylight, then stood into
+Royal Road, and passed to the westward of Elizabeth Island into Catalina
+Bay.
+
+Before passing Sandy Point, we saw several horses, and a Chilian flag
+flying. We hauled in and came to anchor, as we wished to procure wood
+and water. A large gathering of Spaniards from the settlement came to
+the shore. Among them I noticed a little man, handsomely dressed, with a
+beautiful cloak, and a cap having a wide gilt band; he appeared to be
+about fifty years old. A young man, of perhaps thirty, of fine
+appearance, accompanied him. He was dressed in military costume, blue
+trousers with white side-stripe, blue coat with standing collar, and
+cloth cap with a gilt band. These important personages were no less than
+the governor and his highest officer. They were walking along in
+conversation, and came down to meet us as we landed, shaking hands, and
+asking us where we were from, whither bound, and if we stood in need of
+anything. Capt. Morton could understand the Spanish, when spoken, easier
+than he could speak it himself. I therefore acted as spokesman, and
+replied that we wanted wood and water. After learning the quantity
+needed, his excellency gave his men orders to cut and split the wood,
+and draw it to the shore; and said that if we would send our water-casks
+ashore, his men should fill them. In due time both orders were
+executed, and we received a good supply of these necessary stores. We
+were then invited to the governor's house. His table was sumptuously
+spread, and we were entertained in the most handsome style. He was a
+kind, gentlemanly man, and refused to receive a penny for the supplies
+he furnished us, but accepted some presents from the captain. The young
+officer also treated us very politely, and hospitably entertained us in
+his house. Our vessel remained here about a week. Every day the governor
+sent us a large bucket of sweet milk, and sometimes fresh beef. The
+place was a Chilian penal settlement. He was about removing the colony
+from Port Famine here, on account of the superiority of the soil. The
+young soldier and the Catholic _padre_ were his principal officers. A
+part of the colony yet remained at Port Famine.
+
+One day, while walking out with the governor to look at the settlement,
+he asked if we were acquainted with coal. I replied, pointing to Mr. F.,
+that he had been an engineer on several steamboats, and ought to be able
+to judge of _carbon_, as they called it. He sent his men along the
+little brook to look for some. They soon returned with several small
+specimens, which Mr. F. pronounced good coal. The governor said that the
+little brook led up to a large coal-mine, six or seven miles back, and
+he requested us to go and look at it. The next day he renewed the
+proposal, offered us horses and a man to clear the way, and said the
+_padre_ would accompany us. I hesitated a little, suggesting that we
+might fall in with Indians. But he said, and the priest concurred, that
+there was no danger on that score, and we consented to go. We
+accordingly went on shore the following morning, and found horses in
+readiness for us. Mr. F., the _padre_ and myself, started off,
+accompanied by a Spaniard on foot, armed with an axe, to clear away the
+obstructions in our path. After leaving the settlement, we plunged into
+a thick wood, on low, marshy ground, and followed a blind trail, leading
+now over the trunk of a large tree, which our horses leaped with
+difficulty, now across a quagmire, which had to be filled with bushes to
+furnish a foothold, and again was obstructed by an overhanging tree, or
+pendent branch, which arrested our progress till it could be cut away.
+In this manner we worked a passage for about a mile, when we emerged
+into an upland region free from underbrush. By this time, the thought
+recurred that it was rather imprudent travelling unarmed in that
+miserable country, infested by savage men and wild beasts; but I was in
+for it, and jogged along with dogged resolution. The face of the country
+became more uneven as we proceeded, tall trees were numerous, and we
+caught an occasional glimpse of snow on the hills. We soon reached a
+height at which there was abundance of snow. Our guide strode in
+advance, his Spanish axe swung upon his shoulder, calmly whistling a
+tune to himself. As we were descending a steep place, my horse suddenly
+stopped, and bent his head and legs to the ground,--the saddle slipped
+over his head, and his rider instantly found himself about thirty feet
+below, his head and hands stuck fast in the snow, and his heels elevated
+high in air. A little smart exertion extricated me from my uncomfortable
+position. Our guide came to me, uttering maledictions on the stumbling
+beast. Clambering with me back to where the horse stood, he beat him
+soundly, and again girt the saddle so tightly that I almost feared it
+would sever his body. I remonstrated, but he replied that it was a bad
+horse, and was playing old tricks. At the bottom of the declivity I
+remounted; we travelled through the snow as far as we could ride, then
+left our horses and continued our way on foot. The snow was very deep,
+in places frozen hard enough to bear our weight. A walk of a mile or
+more brought us, with some fatigue, to the coal-mine. But there was such
+a depth of snow that we could see only here and there a projection of
+coal in the banks of the brook which runs down from the mountains to the
+settlement.
+
+The coal was pronounced by Mr. F. to be of good quality for steamboat
+use. Some pieces which we brought down with us burned very freely, and
+emitted great heat. Mr. F. thought it a great discovery, and had an
+inclination to apply to the Chilian government for permission to work
+the mine. The Buenos Ayrean government, also, I was informed, laid claim
+to this desolate country. Forest trees, of great size, both of hard and
+soft wood, appeared to be abundant; and numerous streams of water are
+convenient, which could readily supply water-power sufficient to
+manufacture almost any quantity of lumber. A canal might very easily be
+dug to the straits, or a railroad might be constructed, so as to take
+the coal, with little trouble, from the mine to the colony. The _padre_
+said that an English company, some time ago, started to explore this
+mine, but, on account of the great depth of snow, gave up the enterprise
+without inspection.
+
+We returned to the settlement before night, and went to the young
+officer's house, where we were bountifully supplied with refreshments,
+and had a very pleasant, sociable interview, into which the priest
+entered with due spirit, in respect both to the physical and mental
+refreshments. Returned to the vessel at dusk. The next morning we
+landed some goods, and traded with the people. The principal articles
+purchased were cougar-skins, guanaco-skins, and a few ostrich-skins,
+sewed together in the form of a cape, the long feathers being extracted,
+leaving a soft, downy surface. The governor asked permission, which the
+captain readily granted, for some of the women to visit the vessel and
+trade on board; and in the afternoon half a dozen or more of them
+visited us, viewed the vessel, purchased such articles as they wanted,
+and were then set on shore. We spent here a day or two more very
+agreeably, trading with the convicts and gunning in the vicinity of the
+settlement. We had a little sport in trying to capture some sea-lions
+that were gambolling around the vessel, but were unsuccessful. We saw
+the skin of one that had been captured by one of the convicts; it was
+black, covered with a thick coat of coarse hair, or rather bristles. In
+size they were about equal to the common bull-dog. They rise every now
+and then to the surface of the water, to blow, like a porpoise. We bade
+the governor, the young officer and the _padre_, an affectionate
+farewell. Their kindness and courtesy had made our visit so agreeable
+that we were almost sorry to leave them. Not long after our departure,
+we were shocked to learn that they had met with a sudden and cruel fate.
+The convicts mutinied, and rose upon the officers. The governor and the
+priest succeeded in reaching the opposite shore, where they remained
+three days without food. They decided to return to the settlement, and
+abide the consequences, whatever they might be. The convicts bound them
+hand and foot, roasted them alive, burned their bones, and danced over
+their ashes! We had parted from them expecting never again to see their
+faces, but had loved to think of them as still inhabiting that bleak
+shore, turning it, by the magic of their cheerful temper, into a
+pleasant garden, and warming it in the glow of their kindly hearts.
+Their end was in such fearful contrast to their lives, and did such
+violence to our remembrance of their virtues, that the tidings affected
+us with a sense of personal loss, and made that lonely spot at once
+among the happiest and the saddest of my experience.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Port Famine--St. Nicholas' Bay, and its inscriptions--Politeness of
+     the Indians declined--Difficulty of navigating the straits--A
+     post-bag in a bottle--An English steamer, and its humane
+     errand--Exertions of the British government to rescue prisoners in
+     Patagonia--American schooner--Celebration of our safe passage
+     through the straits--Juan Fernandez--News from home--A chapter of
+     accidents--A trip to Lima--Almost an adventure--Arrival at San
+     Francisco--Journey to the mines--A happy meeting.
+
+
+Our next stopping-place was Port Famine. We were visited, the first
+evening after we anchored, by the acting governor of the colony and
+their Irish doctor. The captain and myself went on shore the next day,
+and made a very agreeable visit to the officers, who treated us with
+much politeness. We spent two or three days here. We next cast anchor in
+Saint Nicholas' Bay, a beautiful harbor. Going on shore, we observed the
+names of a number of vessels that had preceded us through the straits
+carved upon trees, with the dates of the several inscriptions; we added
+our own to the catalogue. There were some deserted bush-huts, probably
+of Terra-del-Fuegans, who frequently cross over the straits in their
+canoes, when fishing. A small, shallow stream, of much beauty, flows
+into the harbor; we rowed up it for some distance, gunning on the
+banks. From this point, several ineffectual attempts were made to
+advance; but we were driven back as soon as we cleared Cape Froward, and
+obliged to retreat to our anchorage. Our vessel was flat, and could not
+hold on before a stiff breeze, but was inclined, like a crab, to move
+sideways. The wind having subsided, we made sail late in the afternoon,
+succeeded in doubling Cape Froward, and dropped anchor in Snug Bay; but,
+not being pleased with our position, weighed anchor, and continued our
+course to Fortescue Bay. In passing Cape Holland we saw a large company
+of Indians. They paraded on the shore with dingy flags flying, and waved
+skins in the air to invite our approach; but we kept on our way without
+noticing them; anchored, the next afternoon, in Port Gallant,--a fine
+harbor, sheltered from all winds. We observed the wreck of some large
+vessel, and conjectured that it might be that of a French bark of which
+we were told at Port Famine, which was run ashore and plundered by the
+Indians, who murdered the crew. We were advised to keep a sharp look-out
+for Indians here, which we failed not to do; but none made their
+appearance. As we beat up Crooked Beach, and passed the end of Carlos
+III. Islands, we discovered a white flag flying on the Terra-del-Fuegan
+shore. Thinking it might be the signal of some white people who had been
+shipwrecked, we stood over into the opposite channel, near enough to see
+Indians and their canoes on the beach, ready to pay us a visit. We hove
+about, having no desire to make their acquaintance, and anchored,
+towards night, in the beautiful Borga Bay, opposite.
+
+The most difficult and dangerous feature of navigation in the straits is
+the encountering of sudden and violent squalls, which strike the vessel
+without the least warning, and are frequently enough to wreck her in a
+few minutes even in the hands of the most experienced seamen. We found
+on shore inscriptions of California-bound vessels, as before. On a
+branch of a tree overhanging a little stream, we found a bottle
+suspended, containing papers. This was taken on board, and its contents
+examined. Three or four vessels, passing through the straits, had left
+memoranda of their experience,--such as snow-storms, loss of spars,
+anchors, chains, &c. Captain Morton wrote a humorous account of our
+voyage, to deposit in this repository of curiosities; and I added a
+contribution, narrating my capture by the Indians and escape, with a
+request that, if it should fall into hands bound for the United States
+or England, it might be published. I little thought that it would bear
+to my anxious friends the first intelligence of my safety. I left
+letters at Sea-Lion Island, to be forwarded by the first opportunity,
+which failed to reach their destination; but this, bottled and suspended
+from a tree in the wilderness, first fell into the hands of an Indian,
+who sold it to some passing trader, by whom the soiled writing was
+deciphered, and kindly forwarded to Smith's News-room, in Boston, and
+was published in the "Boston Atlas."
+
+Our progress was slow, both wind and tide being against us; a strong
+current set constantly to the eastward. At Swallow Harbor, where we next
+anchored, we were completely sheltered from the winds, except that which
+came down from the lofty mountains, called by the sailors "willewaws."
+The scenery around is exceedingly wild. There was a beautiful waterfall
+on the mountain side, the stream probably fed by melting snow. We
+stopped at many harbors as we passed along, most of them quite secure
+when entered, but difficult of access. Half-port Bay, at which we
+touched, is very properly named. It is but a slight indentation in the
+land, and has a bottom affording very poor holding-ground, covered with
+kelp; besides, it is very imperfectly sheltered from the wind. While
+lying here we had a severe gale from the westward, which produced
+considerable "chop." Our vessel dragged her anchors, in consequence of
+their becoming foul with kelp. However, by dropping our kedge-anchor,
+and loading the chains, we succeeded in arresting our motion before
+striking the rocks. We had a narrow escape.
+
+At Cape Monday, having cast anchor, we discovered, towards night, a
+steamer on the Patagonian side, bound westward. Our colors were set, as
+there were indications of a dark and stormy night, and the steamer
+turned about and steered for our harbor. This was a pleasant
+circumstance, as the captain meant, if possible, to get towed through
+the straits. The vessel anchored near us, and proved to be the Fire Fly,
+Captain Smith master, built for an English gentleman residing in
+Talchuana, and now bound to Valparaiso. Captain Smith had his daughter
+with him, and half a dozen passengers. We visited them, and were very
+civilly received, invited into the cabin, and introduced to the young
+lady. On hearing my name, she observed that they found at Borga Bay a
+paper in a bottle, describing the captivity of a person bearing the same
+name in Patagonia, with an account of his escape. Captain Morton
+informed her that I was the writer of that document. "Is it possible?"
+she exclaimed; "then you are the hero of those adventures!" "I certainly
+am the unfortunate person there described," I replied, "though wholly
+undeserving the name of hero." She expressed, as did all the passengers,
+much sympathy, and asked many questions in regard to the treatment
+received and the life led during my captivity.
+
+Captain Smith suggested that I might be able to give him some
+information in regard to two Englishmen who had been captured by the
+savages. He had orders from the Board of Admiralty to make search at any
+places at which he might touch on the Patagonian coast, and endeavor to
+learn something of their fate. I told him that I knew something of
+certain English prisoners in that country, and proceeded to relate what
+I had learned from the Indians of the murder of Captain Eaton, and the
+capture and subsequent murder of Messrs. Sims and Douglass; giving the
+names of the vessel and the prisoners from information communicated by
+Mr. Hall. Captain Smith produced his letter of instructions, and the
+names and circumstances perfectly coincided, except that the
+instructions described the Avon as a ship, while she was styled by Mr.
+Hall as a brig; an immaterial variation, as all classes of vessels often
+pass under the general designation of "ships." My deposition of the
+facts was written out by two of the passengers, and, having been read to
+me, I signed it, for transmission to England. The English government,
+Captain Smith said, had been at great pains and expense to obtain
+information of those unfortunate young men, who belonged to highly
+respectable families in England, and to facilitate their escape. Boats
+had been sent out and buried in the sand, and a great number of
+handkerchiefs had been printed, containing particular statements of the
+situation of the buried boats; these had been distributed to vessels
+bound near the Patagonian coast, to be thrown ashore, in the hope that
+they might be picked up by Indians, and thus convey the desired
+information to the prisoners, if they were living. In hearing what the
+British government had done for its unfortunate subjects, I indulged in
+some bitter remarks on the supposed neglect of our government in respect
+to my fate, in leaving me (as I presumed to think) to perish among
+cannibals, without making any effort to learn my fate, or to rescue me
+from destruction; remarks of which I had abundant cause to be ashamed,
+when I learned what had been actually attempted in my behalf.
+
+We could effect no arrangement to be towed by the steamer, as the
+captain said his stock of fuel was too small to warrant running the risk
+of being retarded; besides, in case of accident, it would affect his
+insurance. We spent part of the evening on board the steamer; very soon
+after returning to our ship, a boat, containing two or three of the
+passengers, drew up alongside, and a package was put into my hands
+containing ten dollars, and a letter, signed by the captain and
+passengers, requesting my acceptance of the gift, as a slight token of
+their regard and sympathy. While returning my hearty thanks for such a
+demonstration of kindness to a stranger, I begged to decline the money;
+but they urged its acceptance, and I reluctantly gratified their wishes.
+
+All the next day we beat along, till we found anchorage at Round Island
+for the night. On nearing the harbor, a mast was observed on the rocks,
+lying partly out of the water. I took the boat, early the next morning,
+to ascertain if it was attached to a wreck; but found that it was
+loose, and must have drifted there. I knocked off the iron band and
+cross-trees from the mast-head, and brought them on board our vessel. At
+Tamer Harbor, our next port, we noticed the wreck of a new vessel, lying
+well up on the shore, her bottom badly shattered by the rocks on which
+she had been driven, and both masts gone; it proved to be the "John A.
+Sutter," of Rhode Island. On the opposite shore were parts of
+iron-mills, and other machinery, probably designed for use in
+California. The shore was strewed with trunks and chests, from the
+wreck; she had been stripped of everything valuable. The cabin on deck
+had been cut, and partially burned, by those touching at the harbor. We
+fished up a bundle of steel rods from the hold, which was partly filled
+with sand and water. The vessel had been wrecked, as we afterwards
+ascertained, in a thick fog, on one of the little islands off the
+western mouth of the straits, and drifted back to the harbor, where we
+found her. While we were here, the schooner Julius Pringle, of New
+London, bound to California, came in and anchored. The next day a fine
+wind bore us to Mercy Harbor, the last anchorage in the Straits of
+Magellan. The harbor is a good one; and we determined not to leave it
+till we had a good wind, that would take us well out, far enough to
+clear the islands lying off the north side. We remained several days
+waiting for a south-westerly wind, during which delay a pilot-boat,
+bound for the golden country, came up with us. Our time here was spent
+very agreeably; our passage through the straits had consumed fifty-one
+days, and had been effected without accident, though we had witnessed
+repeated tokens of disaster to some of our predecessors. By way of
+celebrating our success, we got up a "clam-bake," _minus_ the clams, in
+lieu of which we collected and roasted a quantity of muscles, by burying
+them in the earth, and applying hot stones; they proved excellent
+eating, and we had "a good time."
+
+Our mate, who was a sensible young man, of good education, had two
+foibles; he was a decided grumbler, and, in his conviviality, he was a
+little _too_ far from total abstinence. He had a particular dislike of a
+dog on board, purchased at Sandy Point,--a thievish rascal, that always
+had his nose in anything that was dirty; even the tar and slush-buckets
+did not escape his attentions. On the evening of the clam-bake, the mate
+was a little exhilarated; and, having pulled off his pea-jacket
+preparatory to "turning in" for the night, he seized Bose, mistaking him
+for the jacket he had just dropped, and threw him into his berth. The
+dog was not at all displeased with such comfortable quarters, and lay
+down very nicely with his unexpected bed-fellow. I observed the mate,
+the next morning, sitting near his berth, yawning; his eyes presently
+rested on the detested Bose; his feet were in quick motion, and an
+unceremonious kick turned the dog out as suddenly as he had been turned
+in. The incident afforded us a hearty laugh at the mate's expense, who
+became, for the rest of the voyage, a decided temperance man.
+
+Tired of our detention, we put off in unfavorable weather; the Pringle
+and the pilot-boat (whose name I have forgotten) getting out with us,
+but we found it expedient to retreat to our anchorage. A gale soon
+followed, which prolonged our stay; when its fury was past, we got out
+and proceeded northward, for Callao. In passing the port of Juan
+Fernandez, we saw a whaling-ship just putting out to sea; we had
+designed to stop here for some supplies, but concluded that we could
+better obtain them at Callao, and held on our course. In our way to
+Callao we spoke the bark Sarah, Captain Morse, from New Bedford, bound
+to California with a company of sixty members, of which Captain Morse
+was president. Our captain told them that he had on board a man from New
+Bedford,--Captain Bourne,--escaped from captivity among the Indians.
+Captain Morse replied that he recollected the sloop of war Vandalia was
+sent down to the straits in search of him. Presently a crowd of persons
+surrounded the captain of the Sarah, who appeared to be talking
+earnestly; the bark was soon hove to, and several gentlemen from New
+Bedford came to us in a boat. They seemed overjoyed to find me alive and
+well, and made numerous inquiries about my captivity and rescue. They
+informed me that the Vandalia was despatched by our government to my
+relief, with orders to punish my captors, if expedient and practicable.
+From them, also, I gained the first information concerning my ship and
+shipmates; it seemed that the vessel, with the Hebe and the J. B. Gager,
+lost their chains and anchors in the straits, and dragged out to sea.
+The John Allyne, after steering two or three days for Montevideo, to
+repair and obtain supplies, ascertained that they had water enough
+aboard to carry them around Cape Horn, the only practicable course, as,
+without chains and anchors, it was impossible to enter the straits. With
+the concurrence of all on board, it was decided to attempt the passage
+round the cape as they were. They encountered a gale off the Horn; and,
+while lying to, the vessel was knocked on her beam ends. The second
+mate, Mr. F. Crapo, of New Bedford, was washed overboard, and lost;
+others were badly bruised, some narrowly escaping the doom of the mate.
+The cabin partly filled with water; but the schooner righted, with the
+loss of spars, sails, bulwarks, caboose, and stanchions. She finally
+weathered the gale, and arrived at Valparaiso, forty-one days after I
+was left in Patagonia. Here the vessel was repaired, at great cost, and
+proceeded safely to California. After the relation of this chapter of
+accidents, I gave them a brief narrative of my adventures among the
+Patagonians; they returned towards night to their ship. The wind was
+light, and in the morning we were still near each other; several of the
+passengers came to us in a boat, bringing with them a quantity of
+American newspapers. I found in them notices of the disasters that
+befell my vessel, and the particulars of my capture. The papers were
+lent to me until we should meet at Callao,--a great favor; their
+contents were devoured with a high relish, as they were the first
+American papers I had seen since my capture. Both vessels arrived
+safely, on the third day afterwards, at Callao.
+
+In the evening after our arrival, I went with the captain and Mr. F. on
+board the Sarah, and spent an hour very agreeably. The passengers had
+agreed to take the diligence next morning, and visit the city of Lima,
+six miles distant, and they invited us to join them. Mr. F. assented,
+but I declined, preferring, on the whole, to remain on shipboard. The
+party were on shore betimes the next morning, except Mr. F., who
+consumed so much time in urging me to go with them, in which Captain
+Morton joined, that he said the company must have got off; and, unless I
+would accompany him on horseback, he would have to bear me company in
+the ship; so, rather than disappoint him, though caring but little
+personally for the jaunt, I yielded. We went ashore immediately,
+procured horses, and, having found our friends, rambled over the city,
+viewing the numerous public buildings by which it is adorned. We were
+continually beset by shrivelled, cadaverous beggars; they posted
+themselves at every corner, and besought us, by the Blessed Virgin, to
+give them alms. The day passed, on the whole, so pleasantly, and there
+remained so many objects of interest unvisited, we rather regretted that
+it was not longer. The diligence drove up to the hotel towards evening,
+to take our friends to the port; we started for our horses, intending to
+overtake and accompany them in their drive, but missed our way. Some
+time elapsed before we found ourselves at the gate of the city, opening
+on the beautiful public road to Callao. As we passed out, we drew up at
+a respectable-looking ranche; two young Spaniards appeared to be the
+only occupants. With some little delay, during which one of the two
+stepped out at a back door, we procured cigars, lighted them, and were
+moving towards the entrance. Whilst I was paying for them, my companion
+got the start of me. As I was placing my foot in the stirrup, twenty or
+thirty mounted horsemen dashed through the gateway, up to the house.
+They were armed to the teeth; their holsters stuck full of pistols, and
+I could see shining blades protruding through their garments. They had a
+desperate, lawless look, unlike that of soldiers or civil officers, and
+it seemed to me they were no better than they should be. I thought of
+the delay in giving us our cigars, and it struck me that one of the
+troop strongly resembled the fellow who stepped out so quietly on our
+entrance. I sprang into the saddle and gave my horse two or three smart
+raps, under the stimulus of which he cleared the causeway between the
+sidewalk and the road at a single bound, and speedily overtook my
+companion. He had caught a glimpse of the armed cavalcade, and we urged
+our horses at full speed for about a mile, without looking back. On
+turning, nothing was seen but a long streak of dust. We then compared
+notes touching the armed men, and agreed that we were best off at a
+distance from them. We made the best of our way to Callao, which we
+reached a little after dark, and found the captain delighted at our safe
+return, as he had feared some accident, having heard since morning of
+several robberies lately committed on that road. He had been told that a
+perfect understanding existed between the robbers and the people of
+Callao, who gave daily intelligence of persons leaving the port for the
+city; and that even officers of the government were suspected of
+conniving at these outrages, if not actually in league with the
+banditti. As yet, all attempts to ferret them out and break up their
+combination had failed. Our description of the party we encountered so
+far agreed with the statements of American residents at Callao, that we
+were congratulated, and felt disposed to congratulate ourselves, on our
+safe journey. Neither of us was burdened with _plata_, and we had no
+more effective weapons than our jack-knives.
+
+As a national vessel had been ordered to the coast of Patagonia for my
+relief, I thought it my duty to report myself the next day to the
+American consul, who was much interested by the recital of my
+experience. The brig Ann and Julia, Captain McAlister, of New Orleans,
+came into port a day or two after. Captain McAlister said that the
+Vandalia came into Rio Janeiro while he was there, shipped more men, and
+sailed southward in great haste.
+
+Having obtained wood and water and other necessary supplies, we put out
+to sea once more. I must not omit to record the kindness shown, and the
+still greater kindness tendered me, by the captain of the Sarah, and all
+the members of the company. They offered me a free passage and any
+assistance I might need on arrival in California; but the generosity of
+Captain Morton had supplied all present needs, and, with all gratitude
+for their proffered aid, I was not willing to tax their bounty in
+advance. We stood well to the westward before crossing the line, as only
+light winds can be expected before reaching from five to seven degrees
+of north or south latitude, when the trade-winds set in. We had a
+passage of thirty-seven days from Callao to San Francisco, which was in
+very good time, considering the sailing qualities of our vessel. We
+anchored in the beautiful harbor, February 19, 1850, one year and seven
+days from the date of my leaving New Bedford.
+
+Any description of San Francisco would be altogether superfluous, as her
+streets, even, are familiar in the states as household words. I found,
+upon going ashore, letters from those most dear to me, which had long
+awaited my arrival; also one from a brother then in California. He
+stated that immediately on hearing of my misfortunes he started for San
+Francisco to see Commodore Jones, then on that station, and endeavor to
+induce him to make an effort for my release. On making his business
+known, the gallant commodore informed him that he had already heard of
+it, and had despatched the sloop-of-war Levant for my rescue, in the
+full confidence that the enterprise would be successful. When I was
+telling the Indian council that flourishing story of my consequence at
+home, and of the big ships and little ships, the big guns and little
+guns, that were at my command, ready to avenge any mischief they might
+do me, I little thought how literally the action of our government, and
+the spontaneous kindness of Commodore Jones, were verifying my words.
+The sympathy manifested in my behalf by the gallant commodore deserves
+more than this passing notice. My brother also left a deposit of funds
+against my arrival, if it ever occurred, of the probability of which he
+was in some doubt; also his address, and that of another brother, who
+was then at the mines. I could learn but little as to the fate of my
+vessel, or of my effects on board, except that she had duly arrived
+there, and, after much disagreement and dispute among the company, had
+been sold for a trifle above the costs of repair on the passage. This
+operation, I thought, savored little of Yankee shrewdness; since we
+arrived at a later date, with a vessel of about the same size, age and
+value, at a time when shipping was in less demand, and sold her for
+nearly three times the amount. I was happy to meet many acquaintances,
+who gave me a hearty welcome, and showed me kindness I can never forget.
+
+The schooner J. Pringle, from which we parted on issuing from the
+Straits of Magellan, arrived in port very soon after us, having touched
+at Valparaiso. Her captain said that he found the sloop-of-war Vandalia
+at Valparaiso, to obtain chains and an anchor, as she had lost one
+anchor and one hundred and thirty fathoms of chain in Possession Bay,
+and was obliged to double Cape Horn. She was to sail again for Patagonia
+as soon as the damages were repaired, entering the western mouth of the
+straits. Captain B. reported my escape, and that I was safe on board the
+Hopewell, for California, informing the officers that he parted company
+with me at Mercy Harbor--intelligence that was received with
+demonstrations of lively pleasure.
+
+Being unable to obtain any information of my personal effects, left on
+the John Allyne, I left this mushroom city on the third day after my
+arrival, and took passage in the steamer Senator for Sacramento, at the
+moderate fare of _twenty-five dollars_ for a passage of a few hours'
+duration. I found this city of rag houses full of the indications of its
+recent and rapid settlement. The streets abounded in mud, a foot or more
+in depth. Here I recovered my chest, but the trunks containing my
+clothing were missing. Our company, it appeared, had broken up, and its
+members were dispersed hither and thither in the mines, every man for
+himself. My brothers, as near as I could ascertain, were seventy miles
+distant, possibly removed to the Middle Fork of the American river, and
+I decided to start on foot. Accordingly, having purchased, at enormous
+prices, a pair of red flannel blankets, thick boots, a rifle and
+revolver, and other necessary equipments, I set out for the mines the
+next morning, in company with two or three persons from the States. The
+road was exceedingly muddy, but materially improved after passing
+Sutter's Fort. We had travelled ten miles, when I found that my feet
+were so badly blistered that I could proceed no further, and advised my
+companions to go on without me. My feet were in fact almost completely
+skinned. After resting at a public-house till the next morning, and
+encasing my sore feet in a pair of poor, thin shoes, I pursued my
+journey. I made very slow progress. An ox-team overtook me, the owner of
+which kept a house, or, more properly speaking, a booth, for boarding
+and lodging miners, five or six miles ahead. He kindly offered me a
+ride, which I gladly accepted, and lodged with him for the night.
+
+My journey the next day was less fatiguing; on the day following I
+arrived at Georgetown, where I found that my brothers had built them a
+house and spent the winter, but had now left the place, and removed to
+the Middle Fork. The distance was twenty miles by one route and fifteen
+by another. The longest road was considered the best, and I followed it,
+lodging at night in a low grog-shop, denominated an inn. A snow-storm
+detained me here during the next forenoon. By noon it appeared to have
+cleared up, and I resumed my march, but had not gone more than a mile
+before it began snowing again, as fast as before; yet I was resolved not
+to turn back. The snow, however, fell so fast, and with increasing
+violence, and the road was so wretched, that this resolution was
+somewhat shaken. The way led through a forest of lofty pines, the land
+broken by deep _gulches_ and high hills. As I trudged along through the
+deep snow, my attention was suddenly attracted to a clump of bushes by
+the wayside, that appeared to wave to and fro, as if agitated by
+something more than wind. I felt for my knife and pistol, to make sure
+they were where they could be made immediately available, placed my hand
+on the lock of my rifle, and awaited in silence the approach of my
+unseen visitor. Presently a pair of large, glistening eyes glared at me
+through an opening in the bushes. Nothing else was discernible; the
+form, and even the head, of the animal to whom these fierce optics
+appertained, could not be made out. But their gaze was fixed steadily
+upon me, and I returned it with equal steadiness, if not equal
+brilliancy and effect, without once changing my position. I had heard of
+looking wild animals out of countenance, and determined to try the
+experiment, before resorting to any other decisive measures. After
+gazing fixedly at the mysterious occupant of the thicket for a few
+minutes, he turned and walked leisurely away, giving me only an
+imperfect view of his figure. So far as I could distinguish the shape,
+it appeared to be a grisly bear, though not of the largest size. I was
+glad to get rid of so ugly a customer on such easy terms, and went on my
+way rejoicing, though it was a weary and desolate one.
+
+Being very much fatigued, I halted at the foot of a large oak-tree, as
+the shades of evening were closing around me, with the design of
+climbing it, and spending the night as comfortably as I could in its
+branches,--the lodging that I had anticipated might be the only
+available one. But, after a few minutes' rest, I roused my flagging
+energies and concluded to feel--for I could not see--my way a little
+further, before _roosting_ for the night. The darkness of the night,
+deepened by the storm, hid the path so effectually, that the Yankee
+faculty of _guessing_ was called into abundant exercise. I trudged
+along, however, with dogged determination, which was very soon rewarded.
+Half a mile had scarcely been passed, when a bright light greeted me,
+issuing from a tent. Walking up to it, I found it occupied by three men,
+emigrants from the vicinity of my native place. They cordially welcomed
+and hospitably entertained me, on learning who I was, and promised me
+every assistance in their power.
+
+The next morning I set out again, and reached the river. I was at no
+loss to designate the spot where my brothers were likely to be found,
+but a formidable barrier interposed: a rapid and swollen stream
+separated us, just as we were almost within speaking distance. I walked
+along the shore to find a log or some wood with which to construct a
+float; nothing could be found. It was a grievous disappointment; my evil
+star, I thought, had not yet waned. At the opposite shore, fastened to
+the branch of a tree, lay a snug little raft, as if in mockery. I must
+spend the night, it seemed, on the river banks, without food or shelter,
+and within sight of my friends. Just before night I was fortunate enough
+to descry a man on the further shore, who appeared to be on the look-out
+for some one, and hailed him. He answered, and forthwith took me over. I
+was soon in the presence of my two brothers, neither of whom at first
+recognized me. It was a happy meeting, and on their part wholly
+unexpected, as they had given me up for lost. After many congratulations
+and innumerable questions, rapidly interchanged, I mentioned the
+difficulty I had in making the last stage of the journey to them,--the
+passage of the river. They said that they were on the look-out that
+evening for one of their number: otherwise, I might have staid there a
+week without attracting the attention of anybody. They congratulated me
+on my ill success in searching for a log, or the materials to construct
+a float. The attempt to cross would have been extremely hazardous, and
+very likely fatal. The river was full of rapids, eccentric currents, and
+other perils, making it at all times difficult to cross, with the best
+facilities that could be commanded. Of all this I had ample confirmation
+in no long time after. Two men started to paddle themselves over in a
+canoe at the same place. Before they reached the opposite shore, their
+canoe was borne down the stream into the rapids, and dashed to pieces
+against the rocks. One of them was drowned; the other caught the top of
+a small tree just before reaching the rapids. By collecting all the
+ropes and lines we could find, attaching a stone to one end and throwing
+it within his reach, the means of rescue, after several trials, were put
+into his power. Such was the roar of the waters we could not speak in
+tones audible by him, but made signs to him to secure the rope about his
+body, and he was drawn to the shore in safety. A similar accident
+afterwards happened to one of my brothers, in attempting to cross with
+another man upon a raft. The swift current drifted them within the power
+of the rapids, and it was only by the greatest exertions that they
+escaped the boiling abyss below.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     A gigantic speculation, with a dwarfish result--Perils of
+     waters--Sickness and bereavement--Growth of Sacramento and San
+     Francisco--Voyage homeward--Imposition on
+     shipboard--Panama--Havana--Home--Concluding
+     observations--Practicability of Christian missions in Patagonia
+     considered.
+
+
+On my arrival at the mines, I found my brothers engaged in a company of
+twenty men, organized for the purpose of tunnelling a mountain ridge,
+and digging a raceway at its base, with a view to dam the river and turn
+it through the tunnel. By this means the bed of the river, for a mile or
+more, would be laid bare, and gold in great profusion, it was believed,
+would be discovered. Nineteen of the members were on the ground; the
+twentieth was unable to come; and, though there were several applicants
+for the vacancy, I was chosen to fill it. We commenced operations in
+about a week. It may give a clearer idea of the magnitude of the work,
+to state that an excavation, twelve feet wide by seven deep, was made,
+by blasting through rock (slate and granite) a distance of over a
+hundred feet. The race was nearly half a mile in length; the prices paid
+for every article of food were enormous. Before turning the river, we
+let out the expected field of gold to be worked by seven hundred men,
+who were to give us one-half of the produce; there was great
+expectation. The work was the greatest of this nature that had yet been
+undertaken in California; we had worked hard through a whole season, and
+brought it to a successful completion, without any fatal accident,
+though several dangerous circumstances had threatened to retard its
+progress. Everything being prepared, the dam was closed, the river
+rose,--pressed, as if angrily, against the new barrier that opposed its
+wonted flow,--and then sullenly explored the novel course that solicited
+its waters. The dry channel was eagerly attacked; but, alas for human
+hopes! it proved to be anything but rich; in fact, it was less favorable
+for working than the average, and the diggers abandoned the spot,
+leaving the company chagrined, and greatly disheartened at their
+fruitless conclusion.
+
+I came very near being delivered from this disappointment, and from all
+other earthly cares,--those of authorship included,--by a hasty trip
+into the rapids. During the intervals of our work, a young man of the
+company undertook with me to construct a canoe, and establish a ferry
+for passengers across the river. Our skiff, on its completion, was
+carried by all hands to the river bank, and committed to the stream,
+with all the ceremonies customary on the launching of larger craft. A
+successful adventure was made, the next day, with one passenger. On the
+following day six miners applied for passage; I took half of them on
+board, with their picks, pans and shovels, and started with them. We had
+approached within ten feet of the opposite bank, when a counter-current
+suddenly struck us, whirled the head of the boat from the direction of
+the shore, and, in spite of the utmost exertion, carried us into the
+stream, and almost over the rapids. By a successful manoeuvre we
+turned her head up stream, and paddled moderately till we had passed the
+dangerous spot. At length, after a great struggle with imminent danger,
+in the midst of which the passengers were praying and crying for mercy
+and help, we reached some trees, standing in the swollen stream. By
+taking hold of one of the branches the boat was brought to, but with
+such violence as to dash in her side; we sprang safely into the trees as
+soon as the boat struck. Our friends on shore cut poles, and extended
+them to us, by help of which we were soon on terra firma. Our boat
+rolled over, and sunk. An attack of dysentery soon after interrupted my
+work, but not for a great length of time.
+
+After the failure of our river speculation, I spent some time
+"prospecting" for a desirable "digging." Before one was discovered that
+offered much inducement, I was again prostrated by illness, during which
+my brothers joined me, with the mournful intelligence that my little son
+was no more! These heavy tidings, at such a time, proved almost too much
+for an enfeebled body and anxious mind; it was the thought of my little
+family that nerved my spirit against despair, in the darkest hours of
+captivity. A blow _there_ turned my strength into weakness, and my
+weakness well-nigh into absolute helplessness.
+
+It would be too far from the purpose of this volume to solicit the
+reader's company through all my wanderings for a year and a half in this
+wonderful country, to which so many high hopes are carried, and from
+which so many sad disappointments are daily borne. It is enough to say
+that I had six successive attacks of sickness, the last the most severe
+of all; I was brought to death's door, and had little hope of seeing
+home again. After a month's illness, my medical attendant advised a
+return to the States, as soon as I could bear the exercise of riding. At
+the earliest day prudence would allow, I was carried, with all
+practicable care, to Sacramento, a city I had not seen since I passed
+through it a year and a half before. Its appearance was greatly improved
+in every respect. With the increased supply of necessaries and
+conveniences, the fabulous prices of eighteen months before had given
+place to more sober, authentic, and matter-of-fact demands; steamboat
+fare had fallen from twenty-five dollars to one, and the crowding and
+shouting of runners compared with the most active scenes of the kind to
+be witnessed in New York or Albany. We arrived at San Francisco during
+the night; as the day dawned, and the mist that covered the town was
+lifted, the spectacle that met the view was like enchantment; a compact
+and well-built city had risen, its beautiful harbor lined with extensive
+wharves, spacious warehouses, and elegant dwellings, fronting upon broad
+streets, and all appliances of business and pleasure offering themselves
+in profusion.
+
+I walked to the nearest hotel, as I was too feeble to go a hundred
+yards. The friend who accompanied me, and took upon himself all care of
+the voyage in respect to both of us, found that the steamers were
+crowded to the utmost, and engaged passage in a bark for San Juan del
+Sud, or Panama. We examined the printed bill of fare, and thought it
+would be very satisfactory, if its promises were fulfilled. I noticed,
+however, that the potatoes on board were of bad quality, and suggested
+the propriety of raising a committee of passengers to investigate the
+stores; but the motion was overruled as unnecessary.
+
+We put to sea with about a hundred and thirty passengers, many of whom
+suffered severely from sea-sickness. These improved in a few days, and
+began to feel like eating; but, to their consternation, instead of
+wholesome provisions and fresh water, nothing was to be had but spoiled
+meat, and water that was unfit to drink, having been put up in old
+beer-casks and become tainted,--and a short allowance of that. We were
+stinted to three pints a day each for drinking and culinary purposes.
+The only wholesome and eatable articles of food were pork, bread and
+dried apples. Tea and coffee were too wretched to be used. Those
+wiseacres who had so summarily declined any examination of the
+provisions before starting now came to me with very long faces,
+confessing their error when it was too late to be remedied. For
+forty-eight days they languished on this miserable fare. There were many
+quarrels and contentions on board, growing out of these difficulties,
+and some cases of sickness. We buried two men at sea and one the day
+after our arrival in port; and the whole company, in fact, were little
+better than skeletons when they reached San Juan. As to myself, my
+appetite craved but little food, and the sea air agreed so well with me
+that I had almost recovered on arrival there.
+
+We mounted mules on the following day, and crossed to Lake Nicaragua,
+which we reached just too late for the steamer. Some of the company went
+up the lake and procured small sail to take them across, but I decided
+to remain till the arrival of another regular steamer from San
+Francisco. This detained us two weeks, when we proceeded to Georgetown,
+on the Atlantic shore, and took passage on board the steamer Daniel
+Webster, for New York, _via_ Havana. As we passed out of the harbor a
+salute was fired for the United States steamer Saranac, then visiting
+that port to investigate the affair of the British brig Express firing
+into one of our steamers a short time before, on account of a refusal to
+pay certain port charges. When fairly outside the bar, the tables were
+set, and the hungry passengers had begun fortifying their stomachs with
+eager emulation, when I perceived a commotion among the officers and men
+betokening something wrong. Presently the head pump was working lively,
+and the men appeared, running with buckets of water. To the questions
+rained upon them they made no reply, but hastened along in silence. The
+boat had taken fire, but it was promptly extinguished before many of the
+passengers suspected it.
+
+On arrival at Havana we anchored, after dark, under the walls of the
+fort, and our fires were allowed to go out. During the night a breeze
+sprung up, producing a swell in the harbor, which rendered our position
+a dangerous one, as there was not room for the boat to swing around
+clear of the rocks. The passengers all felt extremely anxious for their
+safety; but the fires were renewed, sufficient steam was soon generated
+to work the ponderous engine, the steamer swung slowly and safely
+around, and we were safe. The Spanish guard-boats ordered us back to our
+first anchorage, but the captain replied that he was master of the
+vessel and should put her in a place of safety.
+
+The next morning we took in coal and started for New York. I was seized,
+on the following day, for the first time in my life, with chills and
+fever, but partially recovered, under care of the ship's physician,
+before arriving in port. We made New York without accident, and having
+spent two days in the city, the steamer State of Maine bore me to my
+home, January 13th, 1852,--after an absence of three years, lacking a
+month,--with a heart rising gratefully to God for his many
+interpositions in my behalf, to deliver me from the perils of the sea
+and the perils of the land.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It can scarcely be necessary, for the benefit of any reader who has
+followed me through the course of this narrative, to add any remarks on
+the hazards of visiting Patagonia, or the consequences likely to ensue
+in the event of shipwreck on that desolate coast. The land is dreary,
+and it were a sufficient trial of fortitude to be cast away upon it,--to
+run the imminent risk of perishing by cold, and hunger and thirst. But
+the extremest peril arising from the poverty of the country is
+exhilarating, compared with the tender mercies of the people. Rather
+than trust to their protection, better hide from the light of day and
+gnaw the bark of stunted trees for food, drinking, as I did, from the
+briny sea. The dread which has deterred voyagers from entering the
+country, or even touching the shore, unless armed to the teeth, offering
+articles of traffic with one hand and holding a loaded musket in the
+other, is no more than reasonable. I do not know that the country has
+ever been explored by civilized man. The officers and men of the
+Adventure and Beagle, two ships sent out by the British Admiralty to
+survey the Straits of Magellan in the years 1826, 1830, 1832 and 1834,
+examined and penetrated the country to a greater extent than any other
+voyagers.
+
+If the other tribes inhabiting the country resemble that with which I
+was domesticated, it must be a hazardous enterprise for missionaries to
+attempt the propagation of the gospel among them. Even apart from this,
+the difficulty of gaining a subsistence there must prove an almost
+insuperable obstacle. The barrenness of the soil, and the want of water,
+render agriculture a desperate resource, and there is no spontaneous
+product of the earth to sustain life. To live like the savages would be
+simply impossible to men who have been habituated to the comforts of
+civilized life; I could not have survived many months of such hardship.
+Provisions would have to be imported; this difficulty seems sufficient
+to discourage, if not to prevent, efforts in that direction. When, to
+this, we add the cruelty, the duplicity, the treachery and
+blood-thirstiness of the people, I am unable to conjecture through what
+direct agency they can be reached by the influences of Christianity.
+Whether access to them could be gained through their Spanish American
+neighbors, or by enticing some of them, when young, into a more
+civilized society, and so opening an avenue of peaceable and beneficial
+intercourse, it is not easy to conclude, without actual experiment.
+
+Since returning to this country, these views have been confirmed, by the
+narrative recently published of the sad fate of the English missionaries
+sent to Patagonia. Captain Gardiner, and three or four Cornish
+fishermen, who volunteered for this labor of love, were landed by a
+passing vessel somewhere, on the inhospitable coast. So inveterate was
+the hostility of the natives, they durst not trust themselves among
+them; they were driven, in their covered barges, from place to place;
+like their Master, having not, on the land, where to lay their heads.
+Arrangements had been made, before leaving England, to have provisions
+follow them; thirty-six barrels of provisions, destined for them, were
+found some time after, by a government vessel, at the Falkland Islands.
+The commander took them on board, and sailed for the place of their
+destination; upon their first landing, traces of the unfortunate men
+were found; and, on thorough search, directions were discovered to look
+for them at another place. They were followed from one stopping-place to
+another, till the grave of one of them was found, who had died of
+starvation. The survivors were traced to a spot where their boats lay on
+the shore, unoccupied; at a little distance off lay their bodies,
+unburied, their bones bleaching on the sand. The humane discoverers
+buried their remains. On lifting a stone from the mouth of a cave, there
+was disclosed a narrative of their sufferings, and of successive deaths,
+written by Captain Gardiner; at the date of the last entry he had not
+tasted food for four days. In all probability, he shared the fate of his
+brethren,--starvation,--and with him closed their melancholy history. A
+sad tale! Yet there were days and weeks when I would have gladly
+exchanged my lot for wanderings like theirs, upon the desert shore. But
+from those horrors I was mercifully delivered; they, in the prosecution
+of a sacred and benevolent errand, were cut down by the dispensation of
+Him who seeth not as man seeth.
+
+It may occur to some reader that the deceptions I practised upon the
+natives, as frankly narrated, had a tendency to impair their confidence
+in white men, and thus to increase the difficulty of reaching them by
+Christian influences, and to render the lot of any poor man hereafter
+falling into their hands more desperate than it would otherwise be.
+Perhaps so; yet the danger does not seem so imminent, when we consider
+that they are entire strangers to truth. Probably no Patagonian's
+experience or observation could furnish an example of consistent
+veracity, and they would not be likely to suspect the existence of such
+a virtue in any one. It is apparent, from their behavior in the "last
+scene of all" with me, that from first to last they vehemently
+mistrusted my statements; and their most likely comment on the report of
+the chief must have been, "I told you so." The shock was less than if
+they had reposed a more generous confidence.
+
+The notoriety which was given to my capture by the newspaper press
+called forth many expressions of sympathy from persons who knew nothing
+of me, except that I was a fellow-being in distress. To all such I
+tender my thanks. It is a grateful duty, in parting company with the
+reader, to renew the expression of thankful remembrance with which I
+recall the benefactors who, under God, rescued and befriended me,--Mr.
+Hall, and the noble-hearted captains, who fed and clothed me when hungry
+and naked, and conveyed me gratuitously to my destination. Nor can I
+forget the prompt action of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, the
+efficient exertions of the officers of the Vandalia, or the generosity
+of Commodore Jones. I would also acknowledge, with the liveliest
+gratitude, my obligations to the Hon. Daniel Webster,[A] the Hon. R. C.
+Winthrop, the Hon. George Evans, of Maine, and to the Hon. Joseph
+Grinnell, and the Hon. John H. Clifford, of New Bedford;--all of whom,
+when informed of my captivity, volunteered their aid, and made those
+representations to the Navy department which resulted in the despatch of
+the Vandalia on her humane mission. Nor must I omit to add my thanks to
+Mr. Denison, who kindly bore their memorials to Washington, and laid
+them before the department. If I acquired nothing more by my
+unlooked-for experience, I at least gained a warmer patriotism, and a
+profounder sense of the benignant wisdom of Providence.
+
+     [A] Since this was written he has passed beyond the reach of my
+     thanks; but this fact cannot suppress the utterance of gratitude
+     which I owe to his august memory.
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Captive in Patagonia, by
+Benjamin Franklin Bourne
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