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+} +.xd20e130 +{ +font-size:smaller; color:gray; +} +.xd20e185 +{ +text-align:center;font-size:larger; +} +.xd20e187 +{ +text-align:center;font-size:smaller; +} +.xd20e714width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e795width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e898width +{ +width:513px; +} +.xd20e1050width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e1158width +{ +width:618px; +} +.xd20e1781width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e2042width +{ +width:720px; +} +.xd20e3043width +{ +width:451px; +} +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills, by +James Johnstone + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills + +Author: James Johnstone + +Release Date: October 24, 2011 [EBook #37839] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR *** + + + + +Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project +Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously +made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="front"> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e106width"><img src="images/frontcover.jpg" alt= +"Original Front Cover." width="480" height="720"></div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e112width"><img src="images/titlepage.gif" alt= +"Original Title Page." width="432" height="720"></div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e118">My Experiences in Manipur<br> +and<br> +the Naga Hills</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure xd20e127width"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" +alt="Major General Sir James Johnstone, K.C.S.I." width="508" height= +"720"> +<div class="figAnnotation xd20e127width"><span class= +"figBottomLeft">Graham Photo, Leamington Spa.</span> <span class= +"figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Walker & +Boutall, Ph. Sc.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Major General Sir James Johnstone, K.C.S.I.</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="titlePage"> +<div class="docTitle"> +<div class="mainTitle">My Experiences<br> +in<br> +Manipur and the Naga Hills</div> +</div> +<div class="byline">By the late<br> +Major-General <span class="docAuthor">Sir James Johnstone</span><br> +K.C.S.I.<br> +With an introductory memoir</div> +<div class="docImprint"><i>Illustrated</i><br> +London<br> +Sampson Low, Marston and Company <i>Limited</i><br> +St. Dunstan’s House<br> +<i>Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.</i><br> +<span class="docDate">1896</span></div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e118">London:<br> +Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Limited,<br> +Stamford Street and Charing Cross. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"xd20e183" href="#xd20e183" name="xd20e183">5</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e185">I DEDICATE</p> +<p class="xd20e187">THESE PAGES TO THE MEMORY OF</p> +<p class="xd20e185">My Wife,</p> +<p class="xd20e187">WHO SHARED IN MANY OF MY LABOURS AND ANXIETIES<br> +IN MANIPUR, AND THE NAGA HILLS,<br> +AND WHOSE SPIRIT INSPIRED ME IN MY LAST ENTERPRISE,<br> +AND WHO, HAD SHE LIVED,<br> +WOULD HAVE WRITTEN A BETTER RECORD OF<br> +OUR EXPERIENCES THAN I HAVE<br> +BEEN ABLE TO DO. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e206" href= +"#xd20e206" name="xd20e206">vii</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Author’s Preface.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">When I first brought my wife out to India in 1873, I +was struck by the comments she made on things which had so long been +part of my daily life. I had almost ceased to observe them. Every day +she noted something new, and her diary was so interesting that I +advised her to write a book on her “First Impressions of +India,” and she meant to do so, but never had time. Had she +lived, this would have been a pleasure to her, but it was otherwise +ordained. I feel now that I am in some way carrying out her wishes, by +attempting a description of our life in India, though I am fully +sensible that I cannot hope to achieve the pleasant chatty style in +which she excelled.</p> +<p>I have also striven to give a fair record of the events with which I +was connected; and perhaps, as they include a description of a state of +things that has passed away for ever, they may not be devoid of +interest. I am one of those old-fashioned Anglo-Indians who still +believe in personal government, a system by which we gained India, +solidified our rule, and made ourselves fairly acceptable to the people +whom we govern. I believe the machine-like <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e214" href="#xd20e214" name= +"xd20e214">viii</a>]</span>system which we have introduced and are +endeavouring to force into every corner of India, till all personal +influence is killed out, to be ill-adapted to the requirements of these +Oriental races, and blighting in its effects. Not one native chief has +adopted it in its integrity, which is in itself a fair argument that it +is distasteful to the native mind; and we may be assured that if we +evacuated India to-morrow, personal rule would again make itself felt +throughout the length and breadth of the land, and grow stronger every +day. I have always striven to be a reformer, but a reformer building on +the solid foundations that we already find everywhere in India. +Wherever you go, if there is a semblance of native rule left, you find +a system admirably adapted to the needs of the population, though very +often grown over with abuses. Clear away these abuses, and add a little +in the way of modern progress, but always building on the foundation +you find ready to hand, and you have a system acceptable to all.</p> +<p>We are wonderfully timid in sweeping away real abuses, for fear of +hurting the feelings of the people; at the same time we weigh them down +with unnecessary, oppressive, and worrying forms, and deluge the +country with paper returns, never realising that these cause far more +annoyance than would be felt at our making some radical change in a +matter which, after all, affects only a minority. Take, for instance, +the case of suttee, or widow-burning. It was argued for years that we +could not put it down without causing a rebellion. What are the facts? +A governor-general, blessed with moral courage in <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e218" href="#xd20e218" name= +"xd20e218">ix</a>]</span>a great degree, determined to abolish the +barbarous custom, and his edict was obeyed without a murmur. So it has +been in many other cases, and so it will be wherever we have the +courage to do the right thing. An unpopular tax would cause more real +dissatisfaction than any interference with bad old customs, only +adhered to from innate conservatism. The great principle on which to +act is to do what is right, and what commends itself to common sense, +and to try and carry the people with you. Do not let us have more +mystery than is necessary; telling the plain truth is the best course; +vacillation is fatal; the strongest officer is generally the most +popular, and is remembered by the people long after he is dead and +gone.</p> +<p>Personal rule is doomed, and men born to be personal rulers and a +blessing to the governed, are now harassed by the authorities till they +give up in despair, and swim with the stream.</p> +<p>The machine system did not gain India, and will not keep it for us; +we must go back to a better system, or be prepared to relax our grasp, +and give up the grandest work any nation ever undertook—the +regeneration of an empire!</p> +<p>The House of Commons has to answer for much. No Indian +administration is safe from the interference of theorists. To-day it is +opium that is attacked by self-righteous individuals, who see in the +usual, and in most cases harmless, stimulant of millions, a crying +evil; while they view with apparent complacency the expenditure of +£120,000,000 per annum on intoxicating liquors in England, and +long columns in almost every newspaper recording <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e226" href="#xd20e226" name= +"xd20e226">x</a>]</span>brutal outrages on helpless women and children +as the result.</p> +<p>Then the military administration is attacked, and in pursuance of +another chimera, an iniquitous bill is forced on the Government of +India calculated to produce results, which will probably sap the +efficiency of our army at a critical moment. So it goes on, and it is +hardly to be wondered at that the authorities in India give up +resistance in sheer disgust, knowing all the while that, as the French +say, <i>le deluge</i> must come after them.</p> +<p>It may be said, “What has all this to do with Manipur and the +Naga Hills?” Nothing perhaps directly, but indirectly a great +deal. The system which I decry carries its evil influence everywhere, +and Manipur has suffered from it. I describe the Naga Hills and Manipur +as they were in old days. I strove hard for years to hold the floods +back from this little State and to preserve it intact, while doing all +I could to introduce reforms. Now the floods have overwhelmed it, and +if it rises again above them it will not be the Manipur that I knew and +loved. May it, in spite of my doubts and fears, be a better Manipur. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e235" href="#xd20e235" name= +"xd20e235">xi</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="toc" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Contents</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"> <span class= +"tocPagenum">Page</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#intro"><span class= +"sc">Introduction</span></a> <span class= +"tocPagenum">xix</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch1"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> I.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Arrival in India—Hospitable +friends—The Lieut.-Governor—Journey to the Naga +Hills—Nigriting—Golaghat—A panther +reminiscence—Hot springs—A village +dance—Dimapur—My new abode +<span class="tocPagenum">1</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch2"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> II.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Samagudting—Unhealthy quarters—A +callous widower—Want of water—Inhabitants of the Naga +Hills—Captain Butler—Other officials—Our life in the +wilds—A tiger carries off the postman—An Indian +forest—Encouragement <span class= +"tocPagenum">12</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch3"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> III.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Historical events connected with Manipur and the +Naga Hills—Different tribes—Their religion—Food and +customs <span class="tocPagenum">22</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch4"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> IV.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Value of keeping a promise—Episode of +Sallajee—Protection given to small villages, and the large one +defied—“Thorough” Government of India’s +views—A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills + <span class="tocPagenum">37</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch5"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> V.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Visit Dimapur—A terrible +storm—Cultivation—Aggression by Konoma—My +ultimatum—Konoma submits—Birth of a son—Forest +flowers—A fever patient—Proposed change of +station—Leave Naga Hills—March through the +forest—Depredation by tigers—Calcutta—Return to +England <span class="tocPagenum">45</span> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e307" href="#xd20e307" name= +"xd20e307">xii</a>]</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch6"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VI.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Return to India—Attached to Foreign +Office—Imperial assemblage at Delhi—Almorah—Appointed +to Manipur—Journey to Shillong—Cherra Poojee—Colonel +McCulloch—Question of ceremony +<span class="tocPagenum">54</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch7"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Start for Manipur—March over the +hills—Lovely scenery—View of the valley—State +reception—The Residency—Visitors +<span class="tocPagenum">60</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch8"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> VIII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Visit the Maharajah—His +ministers—Former revolutions—Thangal Major + <span class="tocPagenum">69</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch9"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> IX.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Manipur—Early history—Our connection +with it—Ghumbeer Singh—Burmese war +<span class="tocPagenum">78</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch10"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> X.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of +him—Nur Singh and attempt on his life—McCulloch—His +wisdom and generosity—My establishment—Settlement of +frontier dispute <span class= +"tocPagenum">88</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch11"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XI.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">My early days in Manipur—The +capital—The inhabitants—Good qualities of +Manipuris—Origin of valley of Manipur—Expedition to the +Naga Hills—Lovely scenery—Attack on Kongal Tannah by +Burmese—Return from Naga Hills—Visit Kongal Tannah + <span class="tocPagenum">95</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch12"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Discussions as to new Residency—Its +completion—Annual boat-races—Kang-joop-kool—Daily +work—Dealings with the Durbar +<span class="tocPagenum">104</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch13"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Violent conduct of Prince Koireng—A +rebuke—Service payment—Advantages of Manipuri +system—Customs duties—Slavery—Releasing +slaves—Chowbas’ fidelity—Sepoy’s kindness to +children—Visit to the Yoma range +<span class="tocPagenum">112</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"xd20e397" href="#xd20e397" name="xd20e397">xiii</a>]</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch4"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIV.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">An old acquaintance—Monetary +crisis—A cure for breaking crockery—Rumour of human +sacrifices—Improved postal +system—Apricots—Mulberries—A snake story—Search +after treasure—Another snake story—Visit to +Calcutta—Athletics—Ball practice—A near shave + <span class="tocPagenum">122</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch15"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XV.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Spring in Manipur—Visit +Kombang—Manipuri orderlies—Parade of the Maharajah’s +Guards—Birth of a daughter—An evening walk in the +capital—Polo—Visit to Cachar +<span class="tocPagenum">131</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch16"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVI.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Punishment of female criminals—A man saved +from execution—A Kuki executed—Old customs +abolished—Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh—The Manipuri +army—Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy—System of +rewards—“Nothing for nothing”—An English +school—Hindoo festivals—Rainbows—View from +Kang-joop-kool <span class= +"tocPagenum">138</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch17"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills—Rumours on +which I act—News of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant’s +murder—Maharajah’s loyalty—March to the relief of +Kohima—Relief of Kohima—Incidents of siege—Heroism of +ladies—A noble defence <span class= +"tocPagenum">147</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch18"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XVIII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Restoring order and confidence—Arrival of +Major Evans—Arrival of Major Williamson—Keeping open +communication—Attack on Phesama—Visit to +Manipur—General Nation arrives—Join him at +Suchema—Prepare to attack Konoma—Assault of Konoma + <span class="tocPagenum">161</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch19"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XIX.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Konoma evacuated—Journey to Suchema for +provisions and ammunition, and return—We march to Suchema with +General—Visit Manipur—Very ill—Meet Sir Steuart +Bayley in Cachar—His visit to Manipur—Grand +reception—Star of India—Chussad attack on +Chingsow—March to Kohima and back—Reflections on +Maharajah’s services—Naga Hills campaign overshadowed by +Afghan war <span class="tocPagenum">175</span> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e465" href="#xd20e465" name= +"xd20e465">xiv</a>]</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch20"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XX.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad +outrage—Interesting country—Rhododendrons—Splendid +forest—Chingsow and the murders—Chattik—March back +across the hills <span class= +"tocPagenum">182</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch21"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXI.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Saving a criminal from execution—Konoma +men visit me—A terrible earthquake—Destruction wrought in +the capital—Illness of the Maharajah—Question as to the +succession—Arrival of the Queen’s warrant—Reception +by the Maharajah—The Burmese question +<span class="tocPagenum">190</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch22"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">March to Mao and improvement of the +road—Lieutenant Raban—Constant troubles with +Burmah—Visit to Mr. Elliott at Kohima—A tiger hunt made +easy—A perilous adventure—Rose bushes—Brutal conduct +of Prince Koireng—We leave Manipur for England + <span class="tocPagenum">198</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch23"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Return to Manipur—Revolution in my +absence—Arrangements for boundary—Survey and +settlement—Start for Kongal—Burmese will not act—We +settle boundary—Report to Government—Return to England + <span class="tocPagenum">208</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch24"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIV.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Return to India—Visit to +Shillong—Manipur again—Cordial reception—Trouble with +Thangal Major—New arts introduced +<span class="tocPagenum">216</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch25"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXV.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">A friend in need—Tour round the +valley—Meet the Chief Commissioner—March to +Cachar—Tour through the Tankhool country—Metomi +Saraméttie—Somrah—Terrace cultivators—A +dislocation—Old quarters at Kongal Tannah—Return to the +valley—A sad parting <span class= +"tocPagenum">223</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e533" href= +"#xd20e533" name="xd20e533">xv</a>]</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch26"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVI.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">More trouble with Thangal +Major—Tit-for-tat—Visit to the Kubo valley—A new Aya +Pooiel—Journey to Shillong—War is declared—A message +to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents—Anxiety as to +their fate—March to Mao <span class= +"tocPagenum">236</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch27"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">News from Kendat—Mr. Morgan and his people +safe—I determine to march to Moreh Tannah—March to +Kendat—Arrive in time to save the Bombay-Burmah Corporation +Agents—Visit of the Woon—Visit to the Woon + <span class="tocPagenum">244</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch28"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXVIII.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">People fairly +friendly—Crucifixion—Carelessness of Manipuris—I +cross the Chindwin—Recross the Chindwin—Collect +provisions—Erect stockades and fortify our position—Revolt +at Kendat—We assume the offensive—Capture boats and small +stockades—Revolt put down—Woon and Ruckstuhl +rescued—Steamers arrive and leave +<span class="tocPagenum">251</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch29"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXIX.</a></p> +<p class="tocArgument">Mischief done by departure of +steamers—Determine to establish the Woon at Tamu—The +country quieting down—Recovery of mails—Letter from the +Viceroy—Arrive at Manipur—Bad news—I return to +Tamu—Night march to Pot-thâ—An +engagement—Wounded—Return to +Manipur—Farewell—Leave for England +<span class="tocPagenum">260</span></p> +<p class="toc<hi rend=sc>Chapter</hi>"><a href= +"#ch30"><span class="sc">Chapter</span> XXX.</a></p> +<p class="tocChapter"><span class="sc">Conclusion.</span></p> +<p class="tocArgument">The events of 1890–1 + <span class="tocPagenum">271</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#index"><span class= +"sc">Index</span></a> <span class= +"tocPagenum">284</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e602" href= +"#xd20e602" name="xd20e602">xix</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="intro" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Introductory Memoir.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">These experiences were written in brief intervals of +leisure, during the last few months of the author’s busy life, +which was brought to a sudden close before they were finally revised. +Only last March when his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take +leave of the eldest son of the house, before he sailed for India, the +manuscript was still incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it +aloud. His health had suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the +unhealthy parts of India, in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but +it was now quite restored and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed +before him.</p> +<p>Improvements on the farms on his estate, a church within reach of +his cottagers, to be built as a memorial to his late wife, and the hope +of being once more employed abroad, probably as a colonial governor, +were all plans for the immediate future, while the present was occupied +with the magisterial and other business (including lectures on history +in village institutes), which fill up so much of an English country +gentleman’s life. He had saved nothing in India. What the +Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal wrote in 1872 of his early work at +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e610" href="#xd20e610" name= +"xd20e610">xx</a>]</span>Keonjhur, applied to everything else he +subsequently undertook: “Captain Johnstone’s schools, +twenty in number, continue to flourish, attracting an average +attendance of 665 children. Captain Johnstone’s efforts to +improve the crops and cattle of Keonjhur have before been remarked by +the Lieutenant-Governor. His sacrifices for this end and for his charge +generally, are, His Honour believes, almost unique.”<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e612src" href="#xd20e612" name="xd20e612src">1</a> +But in 1881 by the death of his late father’s elder brother, he +inherited the Fulford estate on the boundaries of Worcestershire and +Warwickshire, as well as Dunsley Manor in Staffordshire. The old Hall +at Fulford, a strongly built, black and white, half-timbered erection +of some centuries back, had been pulled down a few years before, and +Sir James built the present house close to the old site. It was here +that he was brought back in a dying state on June 13th, 1895, about 10 +<span class="sc">A.M.</span>, after riding out of the grounds only ten +minutes before, full of life and energy. No one witnessed what +occurred; he was a splendid horseman, but there was evidence that the +horse, always inclined to be restive, had taken fright on passing a +cottager’s gate and tried to turn back, and that, as its +master’s whip was still firmly grasped in his hand, there had +been a struggle.</p> +<p>He was engaged to assist the next day at the annual meeting of the +Conservative and Unionist Association at Stratford-on-Avon. The Marquis +of Hertford, who presided, when announcing the catastrophe in very +feeling terms, spoke of the excellent work that Sir James Johnstone had +done for <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e620" href="#xd20e620" name= +"xd20e620">xxi</a>]</span>the Unionist cause in Warwickshire. At +Wythall Church (of which he was warden) the Vicar alluded, the +following Sunday, to “the striking example he had set of a devout +and attentive worshipper.”</p> +<p>A retired official who had been acquainted with him in India for +over thirty years, wrote on the same occasion to Captain Charles +Johnstone, R.N.: “Your brother was a type of character not at all +common, high-principled, fearless, just, with an overwhelming sense of +duty, and restless spirit of adventure. It is by characters of his +type, that our great empire has been created, and it is only if such +types continue that we may look forward and hope that it will be +maintained and extended.”</p> +<p>Although the family from which Sir James Johnstone sprang is of +Scottish origin, his own branch of it had lived in Worcestershire and +Warwickshire for nearly a century and a half. “It has taken a +prominent part in the social and public life of the Midlands, and has +produced several eminent physicians.”<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e626src" href="#xd20e626" name="xd20e626src">2</a> He was the +eleventh in direct male descent from William Johnstone of Graitney, who +received a charter of the barony of Newbie for “distinguished +services” to the Scottish crown in 1541. A remnant of the old +Scottish estates was inherited by his great-grandfather, Dr. James +Johnstone, who died at Worcester in 1802, and who, being the fourth son +of his parents, had left Annandale at the age of twenty-one to settle +in Worcestershire as a physician, but who always kept up his relations +with Scotland, and meant to return there in his old age. His anxiety to +secure this estate—Galabank—in the male <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e631" href="#xd20e631" name= +"xd20e631">xxii</a>]</span>line, really defeated his purpose; for he +bequeathed it to his then unmarried younger son, the late Dr. John +Johnstone, F.R.S., whose daughter now possesses it, to the exclusion of +his elder sons who seemed likely to leave nothing but daughters. One of +these elder sons was Sir James’s grandfather, the late Dr. Edward +Johnstone of Edgbaston Hall, who had married the heiress of Fulford, +but was left a widower in 1800. Dr. Edward Johnstone was remarried in +1802 to Miss Pearson of Tettenhall, and of their two sons, the younger, +James, born in 1806, practised for many years as a physician, and was +President of the British Medical Association when it met in Birmingham +in 1856. His eldest son, the subject of this notice, was born in a +house now pulled down in the Old Square, Birmingham, on February 9th, +1841. Brought up in the midst of the large family of brothers and +sisters, whose childhood was passed between their home in the Old +Square and their grandfather’s residence at Edgbaston Hall, where +they spent the summer and autumn: he used also to look back with +particular pleasure on his visits to his maternal grandfather’s +country house, where he first mounted a pony. His mother was his +instructor, except occasional lessons from the Rev. T. Price, till at +the age of nine he entered King Edward’s Classical School, of +which his father was a governor. The head master at that time (1850), +was the Rev. (now Archdeacon) E. H. Gifford, D.D., and in the school +list for 1852, Johnstone senior is placed next in the same class to +Mackenzie (now Sir Alex.), the present Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e633" href="#xd20e633" name= +"xd20e633">xxiii</a>]</span></p> +<p>In 1855, young James Johnstone went to a military college in Paris, +which was swept away before 1870, with a great part of the older +portion of the city. After a year and a half in Paris he was +transferred to the Royal Naval and Military Academy, Gosport, and a few +months later qualified for one of the last cadetships given under the +old East India Company. Without delay he proceeded to India, which was +at that period distracted by the Indian Mutiny, so that his regiment +the 68th Bengal Native Infantry, consisted only of officers attached to +different European regiments, or acting in a civil capacity. With the +73rd (Queen’s Regiment) he marched through the country, and was +actively employed in the suppression of the insurgents, after which he +was stationed for some time in Assam where he also saw active service. +There, in 1862, he met with the accident he alludes to on pp. 3 and 20. +It came in the course of his duty, as the population of a village which +had been disarmed had sent to the nearest military post to ask for +assistance against a tiger (panther), causing destruction in the +neighbourhood; but he was very much hurt, and the weakening effects of +this accident, seem to have predisposed him to attacks of the malaria +fever of the district, from which he frequently suffered +afterwards.</p> +<p>His next post was at Keonjhur, where there had been an outbreak +against the Rajah by some of the hill-tribes and the chief insurgent +had been executed. Lieutenant Johnstone was appointed special assistant +to the superintendent of the Tributary Mehals at Cuttack, in whose +official district Keonjhur lies. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"xd20e638" href="#xd20e638" name= +"xd20e638">xxiv</a>]</span>Superintendent wrote to the +Lieutenant-Governor (Sir William Grey) of Bengal in 1869: +“Captain Johnstone has acquired their full confidence, and hopes +very shortly to be able to dispense with the greater part of the +Special Police Force posted at Keonjhur. He appears to take very great +interest in his work, and is sanguine of success.” The same +official when enclosing Captain Johnstone’s first report, wrote: +“It contains much interesting matter regarding the people, and +shows that he has taken great pains in bringing them into the present +peaceable and apparently loyal condition,” and a little further +on, when describing an interview he had with the Rajah: “From the +manner in which he spoke of Captain Johnstone, I was exceedingly glad +to find that the most good feeling exists between them.” He also +adds, apropos of a recommendation that the Government should pay half +the expense of the special commission instead of charging it all on the +native state: “Nearly one half of Captain Johnstone’s time +has been occupied in Khedda (catching wild elephants) operations, which +have been successful and profitable to Government, and totally +unconnected with that officer’s duty in Keonjhur.”<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e640src" href="#xd20e640" name= +"xd20e640src">3</a></p> +<p>A year later the superintendent (T. E. Ravenshaw, Esq.) reports: +“Captain Johnstone, with his usual liberality and tact, has +clothed two thousand naked savages, and has succeeded in inducing them +to wear the garments;” and again, “Captain +Johnstone’s success in establishing schools has been most marked, +and there are now nine hundred children receiving a rudimentary +education.... Captain Johnstone <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e645" +href="#xd20e645" name="xd20e645">xxv</a>]</span>has very correctly +estimated the political importance of education and enlightenment among +the hill people, and it is evident that he has worked most judiciously +and successfully in this direction.” And again: “In the +matter of improvement of breed of cattle, Captain Johnstone has, at his +own expense, formed a valuable herd of sixty cows and several young +bulls ready to extend the experiment.... Captain Johnstone’s +experiments on rice and flax cultivation have been very +successful” (two years later this is attributed to his having +superintended them himself). The official report sums up, “Of +Captain Johnstone I cannot speak too highly; his management has been +efficient, and he has exercised careful and constant supervision over +the Rajah and his estate, in a manner which has resulted in material +improvement to both.”</p> +<p>Subsequently, when Captain Johnstone was on leave in England, the +Keonjhur despatches show that he sent directions that the increase of +his herd of cattle should be distributed gratis among the natives. They +were at first afraid to accept them, hardly believing in the gift.</p> +<p>“Keonjhur,” says the Government report of India for +1870–1, “continues under the able administration of Captain +Johnstone, who, it will be remembered, was mainly instrumental in +restoring the country to quiet three years ago.”</p> +<p>Captain Johnstone was too good a classic not to remember the Roman +method of conquering and subduing a province; and as far as funds would +permit, he opened out roads and cleared away jungle. But he suffered +again from the malaria so prevalent <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"xd20e654" href="#xd20e654" name="xd20e654">xxvi</a>]</span>in the +forest districts of India, and took three months’ furlough in +1871, which meant just one month in England. Although he had lost his +father in May, 1869, and his absence from home that year gave him some +extra legal expense, he would not quit his work till he could leave it +in a satisfactory state; yet the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal (Sir George +Campbell) twice referred to this furlough as being “most +unfortunate,” particularly as it had to be repeated within a few +months. The superintendent wrote from Cuttack in his yearly report to +the Lieut.-Governor: “Captain Johnstone’s serious and +alarming illness necessitated his taking sick leave to England in +August, 1871. He had only a short time previously returned from +furlough, and with health half restored, over-tasked his strength in +carrying out elephant Khedda work in the deadly jungles of +Moburdhunj.”</p> +<p>In the spring of 1872, Captain Johnstone was married to Emma Mary +Lloyd, with whose family his own had a hereditary friendship of three +generations. Her father was at that time M.P. for Plymouth, and living +at Moor Hall in Warwickshire. Their first child, James, died of +bronchitis when six months old, and they returned to India a short time +afterwards, at which point the experiences begin. Their second child, +Richard, was born at Samagudting, and is now a junior officer in the +battalion of the 60th King’s Own Royal Rifles, quartered in +India. The third son, Edward, was born at Dunsley Manor, and two +younger children in Manipur.</p> +<p>Manipur, to which Colonel Johnstone was appointed <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e660" href="#xd20e660" name= +"xd20e660">xxvii</a>]</span>in 1877, was called by one of the Indian +secretaries the Cinderella among political agencies. +“They’ll never,” he said, “get a good man to +take it.” “Well,” was the reply, “a good man +has taken it now.” The loneliness, the surrounding savages, and +the ill-feeling excited by the Kubo valley (which so late as 1852 is +placed in Manipur, in maps published in Calcutta) having been made over +to Burmah, were among the reasons of its unpopularity. Colonel +Johnstone’s predecessor, Captain Durand (now Sir Edward) draws a +very glaring picture in his official report for 1877, of the +Maharajah’s misgovernment; the wretched condition of the people, +and the most unpleasant position of the Political Agent, whom he +described as “in fact a British officer under Manipur +surveillance.... He is surrounded by spies.... If the Maharajah is not +pleased with the Political Agent he cannot get anything—he is +ostracised. From bad coarse black atta, which the Maharajah sells him +as a favour, to the dhoby who washes his clothes, and the Nagas who +work in his garden, he cannot purchase anything.” Yet, well +knowing all this, Colonel Johnstone readily accepted the post, +confident that with his great knowledge of Eastern languages, and of +Eastern customs and modes of thought, he should be able to bring about +a better state of things, both as regarded the oppressed inhabitants +and the permanent influence of the representative of the British +Government. Whether this confidence was justified, the following pages +will show.</p> +<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Editor.</span> <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb1" href="#pb1" name="pb1">1</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e612" href="#xd20e612src" name="xd20e612">1</a></span> Resolution. +Political Department, No. 87, 1872.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e626" href="#xd20e626src" name="xd20e626">2</a></span> +<i>Birmingham Daily Post</i>, June 15, 1895.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e640" href="#xd20e640src" name="xd20e640">3</a></span> Printed +official reports.</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="body"> +<div id="ch1" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="super">My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Chapter I.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Arrival in India—Hospitable friends—The +Lieutenant-Governor—Journey to the Naga +Hills—Nigriting—Golaghat—A Panther +reminiscence—Hot springs—A village +dance—Dimapur—My new abode.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873, +and after an uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We +proceeded at once to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me, +including two bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack +Tributary Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for +years in all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the +kindness of my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we +spent only a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof +till we left Calcutta.</p> +<p>My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait +till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject +with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb2" href="#pb2" name="pb2">2</a>]</span>Finally it +was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a +Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills, +while the permanent official—Captain Butler—was away in the +Interior, and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the +district well, as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if +I would take the appointment, said, “Yes, I have no objection, +but just hint to the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill +me off, it may be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical +Board in London said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the +experience I have had of it in Keonjhur.” The Secretary conveyed +my hint, and when I next saw him, said, “The Lieutenant-Governor +says, that is all stuff and nonsense.” Later on Sir G. Campbell +asked if my wife would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go +anywhere with me.</p> +<p>Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in +the train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.’s steamers at +Goalundo, for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for +the Naga Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the +well-appointed mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers +uncomfortable, and the company on board anything but desirable. All the +same, the days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the +mighty river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife, +to whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in +view.</p> +<p>We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam +across the river for the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb3" href="#pb3" +name="pb3">3</a>]</span>second time in my life, a distance of about +three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.</p> +<p>At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five +or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the +nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things +needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life, +soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with +her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle, of +Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes, whence +we set out for Golaghat.</p> +<p>It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly +twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded in +an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been +stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high bank, +and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it +happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by +the name of “Baghé Khooah” literally the +“tiger eaten,” a name which I found was still familiar to +every one. Loading our things on elephants, and having a pony for my +wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she grew tired, we set off for +Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the way. How delightful are our +first experiences of marching in India, even when we have, as in this +case, to put up with some discomfort; the cool, crisp air in the +morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile walk or ride gives; the +feeling that breakfast has been <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb4" +href="#pb4" name="pb4">4</a>]</span>earned, and finally breakfast +itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in India could we have a +first-rate meal of three or four courses, and every dish hot, with no +better appliances in the shape of a fireplace, than two or three clods +of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for a king, when heavy rain had +been falling for hours, and there was no shelter for my men, but a tree +with a sheet thrown over a branch.</p> +<p>We breakfasted at a place called “Char Alleé” and +the march being long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before +reaching Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a +conversation with the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if +he could get me a few oranges. He said, “Oh no, they are all +over.” He then asked me how I came to speak Assamese so well. I +said, “I have been in Assam before.” He said, “Oh +yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,” and he named +several; “and then long ago there was a ‘Baghé +Khooah’ sahib, I wonder where he is now?” I looked at him +and said, “Ami Baghé Khooah” (I am the Baghé +Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at me for a moment and then ran +in front of me and made a most profound obeisance. Having done this, he +smilingly said, “I think I can find you some oranges after +all,” and at once ran off, and brought me some for which he +refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a mile farther +before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on, greatly +pleased to find that I was so well remembered.</p> +<p>We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb5" href="#pb5" name="pb5">5</a>]</span>and pitched +our tent on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had +commanded twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had +remembered as small, had grown large, and some that were planted since +I left, already a fair size.</p> +<p>In the morning we received a perfect ovation. People who had known +me before, crowded to see me and pay their respects, many of them +bringing their children born since I had left. All this was pleasant +enough and greatly delighted my wife, but we had to proceed on our way, +and it is always difficult to get one’s followers to move from a +civilised place, where there is a bazaar, into the jungle, and +henceforth our road lay through jungle, the Nambor forest beginning +about five miles from Golaghat. At last coolies to carry my wife +arrived, and I sent her on in her “dandy” with her ayah, +charging the bearers to wait for me at a village I well knew, called +“Sipahee Hoikeeah.” The men replied, “Hoi +Deota” (Yes, deity<a class="noteref" id="xd20e703src" href= +"#xd20e703" name="xd20e703src">1</a>) and started. The elephants were a +great difficulty, and it was some hours before I could get off, and +even then some had not arrived. However, off I started, and hurried on +to “Sipahee Hoikeeah” so as not to keep my wife waiting, +but when I reached the spot, I found to my amazement that the village +had ceased to exist, having, as I subsequently learned, been abandoned +for fear of the Nagas. I hurried on in much anxiety, as my wife did not +speak Hindoostani, and neither ayah nor bearers spoke English. At +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb6" href="#pb6" name= +"pb6">6</a>]</span>last I caught them up at the Nambor hot springs, +called by natives the “Noonpoong” where we were to +halt.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e714width"><img src="images/p006.jpg" alt= +"Camping Out." width="720" height="481"> +<p class="figureHead">Camping Out.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 6.</i></p> +</div> +<p>The Noonpoong is situated in a lovely spot amidst fine forest. The +hot water springs out of the ground, at a temperature of 112 degrees +and fills a small pool. It is similar in taste to the waters of +Aix-la-Chapelle, and is highly efficacious in skin diseases, being +resorted to even for the cure of severe leech bites, which are easily +obtained from the land leech infesting all the forests of Assam. +Fortunately some of our cooking things, with chairs and a table +arrived, also a mattress, but no bed and no tent. We waited till 9 +<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, and finding that no more elephants came +up, I made up a bed for my wife on the ground under a table, to shelter +her from the dew, but while sitting by the camp fire for a last warm, +we heard the noise of an elephant, and saw one emerging from the +forest. Fortunately he carried the tent which was quickly pitched, and +we passed a comfortable night.</p> +<p>The hot springs are not the only attraction of the neighbourhood, as +about two miles off in the forest, there is a very pretty waterfall, +not high, but the volume of water is considerable, and it comes down +with a thundering sound heard for some distance. The natives call it +the “phutta hil,” literally “rent rock.” The +Nambor forest is noted for its Nahor or Nagessur trees (<i>Mesua +Ferma</i>) a handsome tree, the heart of which is a fine red wood, very +hard and very heavy, and quite impervious to the attacks of white ants. +Europeans call it the iron wood of Assam. It is very plentiful in parts +of the forest <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb7" href="#pb7" name= +"pb7">7</a>]</span>between the Noonpoong and Golaghat, and also grows +in the lowlands of Manipur.</p> +<p>The next morning we set out for Borpathar, a village with a fine +sheet of cultivation on the banks of the Dunseree, and took up our +quarters in the old blockhouse, which had been converted into a +comfortable rest house. Here again we received a perfect ovation, the +people, headed by my old friend Hova Ram, now promoted to a Mouzadar, +coming in a body, with fruit and eggs, etc., to pay their respects. The +population had sadly diminished since my early days, the people having +in many cases fled the country for fear of Naga raids.</p> +<p>The march having been a short one, all our baggage had time to come +up. In the evening the girls of the village entertained us with one of +their national dances, a very pretty and interesting sight. After a +good night’s rest we again started, our march lying through the +noble forest, where buttressed trees formed an arch over the road, +showing plainly that Gothic architecture was an adaptation from nature. +I had never marched along the road since it was cleared; but I was +there in 1862, in pursuit of some Naga raiders, when it would have been +impassable, but for elephant and rhinoceros tracks. Even then I was +struck by its great beauty, and now it was a fairly good cold weather +track.</p> +<p>We halted at Deo Panee, then at Hurreo Jan, and Nowkatta, and on the +fourth day reached Dimapur, where we found a comfortable rest house, on +the banks of a fine tank about two hundred yards square. This, with +many others near it, spoke of days of civilisation that had long since +passed away, before <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb8" href="#pb8" +name="pb8">8</a>]</span>the Naga drove the Cacharee from the hills he +now inhabits, and from the rich valley of the Dunseree. Near Dimapur we +passed a Meekir hut built on posts ten or twelve feet high, and with a +notched log resting against it, at an angle of about seventy degrees by +way of a staircase, up which a dog ran like a squirrel at our approach. +The Meekirs occupy some low hill ranges between the Naga hills and the +Burrhampooter.</p> +<p>The country round Dimapur is exceedingly rich, and everywhere bears +the marks of having been thickly populated. It is well supplied with +artificial square tanks, some much larger than the one already referred +to, and on the opposite bank of the river we crossed to reach our +halting place, are the remains of an old fortified city. Mounds +containing broken pottery made with the wheel, abound, though the +neighbouring tribes have forgotten its use. At Dimapur, in those days, +there were three or four Government elephants and a few shops kept by +“Khyahs,” an enterprising race of merchants from Western +India.</p> +<p>The ruined city is worth describing. It was surrounded originally by +solid brick walls twelve feet in height and six in thickness, the +bricks admirably made and burned. The walls enclosed a space seven +hundred yards square; it was entered by a Gothic archway, and not far +off had a gap in the wall, said to have been made for cattle to enter +by. Inside were tanks, some lined with brick walls, and with brick +steps leading to the water. Though I carefully explored the interior, I +never saw any other traces of brickwork, except perhaps a platform; +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb9" href="#pb9" name= +"pb9">9</a>]</span>but I found one or two sacrificial stones, for +offerings of flowers, water and oil. One corner of the surrounding wall +had been cut away by the river. The enclosure is covered with forest. +Near the gateway are some huge monoliths, one eighteen feet in height. +All are covered with sculpture, and some have deep grooves cut in the +top, as if to receive beams. It is difficult to conjecture what they +were brought there for, and how they were transported, as the nearest +rocks from which they could have been cut, are at least ten miles away. +If the Assam-Bengal Railway passes near Dimapur as is, I believe, +arranged, this interesting old city wall will probably be used as a +quarry for railway purposes, and soon none of it will remain. Alas, for +Vandalism!</p> +<p>History tells us little about the origin of Dimapur, but probably it +was once a centre of Cacharee civilisation, and as the Angami Nagas +advanced, the city wall was built, so as to afford a place of refuge +against sudden raids. It is a strange sight to see the relics of a +forgotten civilisation, in the midst of a pathless forest.</p> +<p>On our march up, we frequently came upon the windings of the river +Dunseree. At Nowkatta it runs parallel for a time with the road, and we +took our evening walk on its dry sandbanks, finding many recent traces +of tigers and wild elephants. From that time till we finally left the +hills, the roar of tigers and the trumpeting of elephants were such +common sounds, that we ceased to pay attention to them, and my wife, +though naturally timid, became devoted to the wild solitude of our +life. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb10" href="#pb10" name= +"pb10">10</a>]</span></p> +<p>At Dimapur we enjoyed the luxury of fresh milk, which, of course, +the forest did not supply. The night was delightfully cold, and the +next morning crisp and invigorating, and we set off at an early hour, +for our last march into Samagudting.</p> +<p>For the first eight miles our road was through a level forest +country, with the exception of a piece of low-lying grass land, and at +a place called Nichu Guard the ascent of the hill commenced. This +entrance of the gorge through which the Diphoo Panee river enters the +low lands is very beautiful, the stream rushing out from the hills over +a pebbly bottom, and it was a favourite encamping ground for us in our +later marches. Now, we had not time to halt, so hurried on. The road up +the hill was in fair condition for men and elephants, but did not admit +of wheeled traffic, had there been any carts to use. We accomplished +the ascent, a distance of four miles, in about two hours, obtaining +several lovely views of the boundless forest, on our way.</p> +<p>The vegetation on the hill itself had been much injured by the +abominable practice hillmen have, of clearing a fresh space every two +or three years, and deserting it for another, when the soil has been +exhausted. This never gives it time to recover. At last we reached the +summit, and took possession of the Political Agent’s house, a +large bungalow, built of grass and bamboo, the roof being supported by +wooden posts, on the highest point of the hill. A glance showed me that +the posts were nearly eaten through by white ants, and that the first +high wind would level it with the ground. It had been built +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb11" href="#pb11" name= +"pb11">11</a>]</span>by a man who never intended to stay, and who only +wanted it to last his time.</p> +<p>Later in the day, I took over the charge from Mr. Coombs, who was +acting till my arrival, and thus became, for the time, chief of the +district. My staff consisted of Mr. Needham, Assistant Political Agent, +and Mr. Cooper, in medical charge, the usual office establishment, and +one hundred and fifty military police. Most of these, together with +Captain Butler, for whom I was acting, were away in the Interior with a +survey party. Mr. Coombs left in a day or two, and I then occupied his +bungalow lower down the hill, and in a more exposed position, so as to +allow of the larger house being rebuilt. Besides the Government +establishment, we had a fair-sized Naga village on the hill, and just +below the Political Agent’s house. These people had long been +friendly to us, and were willing, for a large recompense, to do all +sorts of odd jobs, being entirely free from the caste prejudices of our +Hindoo and degenerate Mussulman fellow-subjects. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb12" href="#pb12" name="pb12">12</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e703" href="#xd20e703src" name="xd20e703">1</a></span> One of the +witnesses at the trial of the Regent and <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e705" title="Source: Senaputty">Senaputtee</span> of Manipur, in +1891, stated that Mr. Quinton was partly induced to enter the palace +from which he never emerged alive, by the Manipuris saying, “Are +you not our deity?”—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch2" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter II.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Samagudting—Unhealthy quarters—A callous +widower—Want of water—Inhabitants of the Naga +Hills—Captain Butler—Other officials—Our life in the +wilds—A tiger carries off the postman—An Indian +forest—Encouragement.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">My first impressions of Samagudting, were anything but +favourable. It was eminently a “make-shift place.” It had +been occupied by us as a small outpost, from time to time, between 1846 +and 1851, but it was never fit for a permanent post of more than +twenty-five men, as the water supply was bad, there being no springs, +and only a few water holes which were entirely dependent on the +uncertain rainfall. A small tank had been constructed, but it was 500 +feet below the summit, so that water was sold at an almost prohibitive +rate. All articles of food were scarce, dear and bad, wood was +enormously dear, and to crown all, the place was unhealthy and +constantly enveloped in fog.</p> +<p>Samagudting<a class="noteref" id="xd20e775src" href="#xd20e775" +name="xd20e775src">1</a> ought never to have been occupied, and would +not have been, had the Government taken ordinary precautions to verify +the too roseate reports of an officer who wished to see it adopted as +the headquarters of a new district, as a speedy road <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb13" href="#pb13" name="pb13">13</a>]</span>to +promotion, and subsequent transfer to a more favoured appointment. The +report in question which, among other things, mentioned the existence +of springs of water, that existed only in imagination, having once been +accepted by the authorities, and a large expenditure incurred, it +became a very invidious task for future Political Agents to unmask the +affair, and proclaim the extreme unsuitability of Samagudting for a +station.</p> +<p>Many other good and healthy sites were available, and I believe that +our dealings with the Nagas were greatly retarded, by the adoption of +such an unsuitable post. As it was, having made our road over the hill, +it was necessary to climb an ascent of over two thousand feet, and an +equal descent, before entering the really important portion of the +Angami Naga country. I at once saw that the right entrance lay by the +Diphoo Panee Gorge, and I recommended its adoption. I began to make +this road during the Naga Hills Campaign of 1879–80, and it has +since been regularly used.</p> +<p>Having said all that there was to say against Samagudting, it is +only fair to mention its good points. First, though never so cold in +the winter, as the plains, the temperature was never so high in the hot +and rainy seasons; and when the weather was fine, it was very +enjoyable. The views from the hill were magnificent. To the south, the +Burrail range, from which a broad and undulating valley divided us. To +the west, a long stretch of hills and forests. To the east, the valley +of the Dunseree, bordered by the Rengma and Lotah Naga hills, a vast +forest, stretching as far as the eye could reach, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb14" href="#pb14" name="pb14">14</a>]</span>with +here and there a large patch of high grass land, one of which many +miles in extent, was the Rengma Putha, a grand elephant catching ground +in old times, where many a noble elephant became a victim to the +untiring energy of the Bengali elephant phandaits or noosers, from the +Morung.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e788src" href="#xd20e788" name= +"xd20e788src">2</a> To the north, the view extended over a pathless +forest, the first break being the Doboka Hills. Behind these, a long +bank of mist showed the line of the Burrhampooter, while on clear days +in the cold weather, we might see the dark line of the Bhootan Hills, +with the snowy peaks of the Himalayas towering above them.<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e791src" href="#xd20e791" name="xd20e791src">3</a> +Altogether, it was a sight once seen, never to be forgotten.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e795width"><img src="images/p014.jpg" alt= +"Samagudting." width="720" height="450"> +<p class="figureHead">Samagudting.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 14.</i></p> +</div> +<p>There was a footpath all round the hill, which, after a little +alteration of level here and there, and a little repairing, where +landslips had made it unsafe, was delightful for a morning or evening +walk or ride. As my wife was fond of botany, she found a subject of +never-ending interest in the many wild flowers, ferns, and climbing +plants, and soon grew accustomed to riding along the edge of a dizzy +precipice.</p> +<p>Our private establishment consisted of ten or twelve servants in +all, including a girl of the Kuki tribe, named Bykoout, who assisted +the ayah; a very small establishment for India. Servants in Assam are +bad and difficult to keep. Most of mine were imported, but, with the +exception of my two faithful Bhooyas, Seewa and Keptie, and a +<i>syce</i> (groom), by name <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb15" href= +"#pb15" name="pb15">15</a>]</span>Peewa, they were all soon corrupted, +though some had been with me for years. Seewa once said to me, +“The influence here is so bad, that we too shall be corrupted if +we stay long.” Seewa was quite a character. One day I got a +letter from one of his relations, asking me to tell him that his wife +was dead. I remembered her well; it was a love match, and she had run +away with him. I feared it would be such a blow, that I felt quite +nervous about telling him, and put it off till the evening, when, with +a faltering voice, I broke the news as gently as I could. Instead of +the outburst of grief I had looked for, he quietly asked, “What +did she die of?” I said, “Fever.” He replied, +“Oh, yes, I thought it must be that. Will you write and see that +all her property is made over to my brother, otherwise some of her +people may steal it?”</p> +<p>The state of things at Samagudting was very discouraging. I resented +seeing the Government and the establishment being charged famine prices +for everything, by the Nagas and Khyahs; also the general squalor which +prevailed, and which I felt need not exist. It was the inheritance of +the hand-to-mouth system in which everything had been commenced in +early days. However, my wife set me an example of cheerfulness, and I +made up my mind to remedy all the evils I could. First, the supply +system was attacked, and I made arrangements with some old Khyah +friends at Golaghat, to send up large supplies of rice and other kinds +of food, and as the season advanced, I encouraged such of the military +police as could be spared to take up land at Dimapur, and cultivate. +For ourselves, I bought <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb16" href= +"#pb16" name="pb16">16</a>]</span>two cows at Borpathar, and +established them at Nichu Guard, whence my gardener brought up the milk +every day. In a short time we were more comfortable than could have +been expected, and there was the additional satisfaction of seeing that +the arrangements for cheaper food for the establishment proved +successful. Water was the standing difficulty; we had to depend upon +the caprice of the Naga water-carriers, and frequently my wife’s +bath, filled ready for the next morning, had to be emptied in the +evening to provide water for cooking our evening meal! Sometimes I got +clean water for drinking from the Diphoo Panee, otherwise what we had +was as if it had been taken from a dirty puddle. The want of water +prevented our having a garden near our house; we had a few hardy +flowers, including the shoe-flower—a kind of +hibiscus—roses, and passion-flower. Such vegetable-garden as we +had was at Nichu Guard, where the soil was good, and water +plentiful.</p> +<p>Our house was watertight, and that was the best that could be said +for it. It was thatched, with walls of split bamboos and strengthened +by wooden posts; there were no glass windows, and the doors and +shutters were of split bamboo tied together; the mud floor was also +covered with thin split bamboos, and had to be swept constantly, as the +dust worked through. We had one sitting-room, a bed-room, bath-room, +pantry, and store-room, the latter full of rats. Snakes occasionally +visited us, and a day or two after we had settled in, a cat rushed in +while we were at breakfast, jumped on my knee and took away the meat +from my plate, and bit and scratched <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb17" href="#pb17" name="pb17">17</a>]</span>me when I tried to catch +her. My dressing-room was the shade of a tree outside, where I bathed +Anglo-Indian camp fashion, substituting a large hollow bamboo for the +usual <i>mussuk</i>, or skin of water.</p> +<p>We arrived at Samagudting on January 23rd, 1874, and by the +beginning of February felt quite old residents; hill-walking no longer +tired me, and we had made acquaintance with all the Nagas of the +village, and of many others, and were on quite friendly terms with +“Jatsolé,” the chief of Samagudting, a shrewd +far-seeing man, with great force of character.</p> +<p>I have mentioned the Burrail range, and the valley separating us. +Besides Samagudting there were two other villages on our side, +Sitekima, on the opposite bank of the Diphoo Panee Gorge, and +Tesephima, on outlying spurs of Samagudting. I say Samagudting, as it +has become the common appellation, but correctly speaking it should be +Chumookodima.</p> +<p>On the side of the Burrail facing us, were villages belonging to a +tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, a race inferior in fighting power to the +Angamis, but not unlike them in appearance, though of inferior +physique. These villages were formerly inhabited by Cacharees.<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e830src" href="#xd20e830" name= +"xd20e830src">4</a></p> +<p>On February 4th, I had a letter from Captain Butler, saying that he +would be at Kohima in a day or two, and asking me to meet him there. He +said that three of the police would be a sufficient escort. I +accordingly took three men, and started on the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18" name="pb18">18</a>]</span>6th, +marching to Piphima twenty-one miles, and the next morning another +twenty-one into Kohima, two very hard marches. I was glad to renew my +acquaintance with Butler, whom I had known when he first landed in +India in 1861, and I was in Fort William, studying for my <span class= +"corr" id="xd20e840" title="Source: Hindustani">Hindoostani</span> +examination. He was a fine manly fellow, admirably fitted to conduct an +expedition, where pluck and perseverance were required. Here, I also +met Dr. Brown, Political Agent of Manipur, and Captain (now Colonel) +Badgley and Lieutenant (now Colonel C.B.) Woodthorpe, R.E., of the +survey, also Lieutenant (now Major V.C.) Ridgeway, 44th N.I.<a id= +"xd20e843" name="xd20e843"></a>, I spent a pleasant evening, discussing +various subjects with Captain Butler, and early on the 8th started on +my return journey.</p> +<p>Captain Butler had done the whole forty-two miles into Samagudting +in one day, and I determined to attempt it, and succeeded, though the +last 2000 feet of ascent to my house was rather hard, tired as I was. +My wife did not expect me, but I had arranged to fire three shots from +my rifle as a signal, if I arrived at any time by night; this I did +about 500 feet below my house, and I at once saw lanterns appear far +above me, and in a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, I was at my +door. The sound of firing at 9 P.M. created quite a sensation among the +weak-nerved ones on the hill, but it was good practice for the sentries +to be kept on the alert. Ever after, three shots from a rifle or a +revolver, were always my signal when I neared home, and often in after +years were they heard in the dead of night, when I was thought to be +miles away. My wife used to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href= +"#pb19" name="pb19">19</a>]</span>say that it kept the people in good +order, never knowing when to expect me. I think it did.</p> +<p>Life was never monotonous. I took long walks, after our morning walk +round the hill, to inspect roads and bridges—a very important +work. Then I attended Cutcherry (the court of justice) and heard cases, +often with a loaded revolver in my hand, in case of any wild savage +attempting to dispute my authority; then I finished off revenue work, +of which there was little, and went home, had a cup of tea, visited +hospitals and gaol, if I had not already done so; and afterwards went +for an evening walk with my wife, round the hill or through the +village.</p> +<p>Sometimes duty took me to the plains, and we had a most delightful +march to the Nambor hot springs, when I arranged to have a rest house +built at Nowkatta, between Dimapur and Hurreo Jan. We reached the last +place, just after a dreadful catastrophe had occurred. The rest house +was raised on posts, six feet above the ground. One night when the man +carrying the dak (post) had arrived from Borpathar, he hung up the +letter bag <i>under the house</i> on a peg, and having had his evening +meal, retired to rest in the house with one or two other travellers. +Suddenly a huge tiger rushed up the steps, sprang through the open +door, and seizing one of the sleepers, bounded off into the forest with +him. One of my police who was there snatched up his rifle, pursued the +tiger and fired, making him drop the man, but life was extinct, and +when we arrived, there was a huge bloodstain on the floor, at least a +yard long. Strange to say, the letter bag was on one occasion carried +off by a tiger, but afterwards <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb20" +href="#pb20" name="pb20">20</a>]</span>recovered, uninjured save by +tooth marks. The policeman was promoted for his gallantry.</p> +<p>The day after leaving Hurreo Jan, we met a party of Rengma Nagas +coming to see me, with some little presents. They were the men who +helped to kill the panther, that wounded me in 1862,<a class="noteref" +id="xd20e860src" href="#xd20e860" name="xd20e860src">5</a> and they +brought with them the son of one of their number, who was killed by the +infuriated beast, a fine lad of fifteen; needless to say, that I +rewarded these friendly people, whom I had not seen for twelve years. +We halted a day or two at the springs, as I had to visit Golaghat on +business, and unfortunately missed seeing a herd of wild elephants +caught, a sight I had wished my wife to see. She did see the stockade, +but the elephants had been already taken out. I hope farther on to +describe an elephant drive.</p> +<p>I do not know a more agreeable place to halt at than the hot springs +in former days. In cold weather before the mosquitoes had arrived it +was perfect rest. A little opening in the tall dark forest, in the +centre some scrub jungle, including fragrant wild lemons and citrons, +with the pool in the midst; a babbling stream flowed all round the +opening, on the other side of which was a high bank. The <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb21" href="#pb21" name="pb21">21</a>]</span>bathing +was delightful, and could be made quite private for ladies, by means of +a cloth enclosure, well known to the Assamese by the name of +”Âr Kapôr.” Then the occasional weird cry of +the <span class="corr" id="xd20e869" title= +"Source: hoo-cook">hoolook</span> ape, and the gambols of numerous +monkeys in the tall trees on the high bank, gave plenty of interest to +the scene, had the general aspect of the place failed in its +attractions.</p> +<p>Soon after our return to headquarters, the survey party arrived from +the interior of the hills, and after a few days’ rest, departed +for their summer quarters. Captain Butler then started for England, and +Mr. Needham came in to Samagudting.</p> +<p>Thus left in charge for a considerable period, I felt justified in +doing more than I should have done, had my stay only been of a +temporary nature, and I went most thoroughly into all questions +connected with the hills and their administration. My long experience +in charge of a native state full of wild hill tribes, and my personal +knowledge of many of the Naga and other wild tribes of Assam (a +knowledge that went back as far as 1860), were a great help to me, as I +was consequently not new to the work. The eastern frontier had always +been to my mind the most interesting field of work in India, and now it +was for me to learn all I could. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22" +href="#pb22" name="pb22">22</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e775" href="#xd20e775src" name="xd20e775">1</a></span> The Assam +Administration Report of 1877–8 writes of it as +“notoriously unhealthy, and it had long been proposed to move the +troops to a higher and less feverish spot.”—<span class= +"sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e788" href="#xd20e788src" name="xd20e788">2</a></span> When I +first went to Assam almost all elephant-catching was done by +noosing.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e791" href="#xd20e791src" name="xd20e791">3</a></span> The country +bordering on the Bhootan Dooars in the Ringpore district.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e830" href="#xd20e830src" name="xd20e830">4</a></span> See +subsequent sketch of Naga tribes in <a href="#ch3">Chapter III</a>.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e860" href="#xd20e860src" name="xd20e860">5</a></span> Sir James +(then Lieut.) Johnstone headed a party to clear an Assamese village +from a panther that had killed several natives and was terrifying the +district. It retreated into a house which he ordered to be pulled down, +and as his men were thus engaged it sprang from a window on to his +shoulder. With his other arm—the left—he fired at it behind +his back and wounded it sufficiently to make it loose its hold, and +rush off into the jungle, where it was killed in the course of the +afternoon. His arm was terribly injured, and he always considered that +he owed complete recovery of the use of it to the kindness and skill of +an English medical friend who came from a great distance to attend him. +Every one else who was wounded by the same panther +died.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch3" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter III.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga +Hills—Different tribes—Their religion—Food and +customs.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Shortly after my arrival at Samagudting, I received a +cheering letter, just when I most needed it, from my old friend Wynne, +then Acting Foreign Secretary, saying, “Don’t be too +disappointed at not receiving a better appointment than the Naga Hills. +You will have plenty of good work to do, and you will increase your +already very extensive knowledge of wild tribes.” It was the last +letter I ever received from him, as cholera quickly carried him off, +and I lost in him one of the kindest friends I ever had, one who had +constantly interested himself in my work, and given me advice. Such a +friend would have been invaluable now. Our position in the Naga +<span class="corr" id="xd20e885" title="Source: Nills">Hills</span> was +an anxious one, and can only be properly realised by knowing the course +of previous events.</p> +<p>Our first acquaintance with the Nagas practically began in 1832, +when Captain Jenkins and Lieutenant Pemberton escorted by Rajah +Ghumbeer Singh’s Manipur troops, forced a passage through the +hills with a view to ascertaining if there were a practicable route +into Assam. They came <i>viâ</i> Paptongmai and Samagudting to +Mohong Deejood. There is every <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23" +href="#pb23" name="pb23">23</a>]</span>reason to believe that the +Manipuris in former days did penetrate into the Naga Hills, and exacted +tribute when they felt strong enough to do so. All the villages have +Manipur names in addition to their own. But during the period of her +decadence, just before and during the Burmese War of 1819–25, any +influence Manipur may have possessed fell into abeyance. At that time +it was re-asserted, and Ghumbeer Singh reduced several villages to +submission, including the largest of all, Kohima, at which place he +stood upon a stone and had his footprints sculptured on it, in token of +conquest. This was set up in a prominent position, together with an +upright stone bearing carved figures and an inscription.</p> +<p>The Nagas greatly respected this stone and cleaned it from time to +time. They opened a large trade with Manipur, and whenever a Manipuri +visited a Naga village he was treated as an honoured guest, at a time +when a British subject could not venture into the interior without risk +of being murdered.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e898width"><img src="images/p023.jpg" alt= +"Kohima Stone." width="513" height="684"> +<p class="figureHead">Kohima Stone.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 23.</i></p> +</div> +<p>Even up to the Naga Hills campaign of 1879–80, the Nagas +regarded Manipur as the greater power of the two, because her conduct +was consistent; if she threatened, she acted. One British subject after +another might be murdered with impunity, but woe betide the village +that murdered a subject of Manipur. A force of Manipuris was instantly +despatched, the village was attacked, destroyed, and ample compensation +exacted. The system answered well for Manipur; many of the Nagas began +to speak Manipuri, and several villages paid an annual tribute. Still, +up to 1851, we considered that we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24" +href="#pb24" name="pb24">24</a>]</span>had some shadowy claim to the +hills, though we never openly asserted it.</p> +<p>I may as well give a short account of the different tribes +inhabiting the Naga Hills district when I took charge. The oldest +were—</p> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Cacharees.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Their origin is obscure. They are first met with in +the north-east portion of the Assam Valley between the Muttuk country +and Sudya. Round the last in the vast forests, there are numerous ruins +ascribed by the people to the Cacharee Rajahs, built of substantial +brickwork. I have not seen any sculptured stonework, but it may exist. +The traditions give no clue to their original home, which was probably +in Thibet. From the neighbourhood of Sudya they penetrated down the +valley, leaving buildings and remnants of their tribes here and there, +notably in the Durrung district. The main body were, for a time settled +in the <span class="corr" id="xd20e917" title= +"Source: nighbourhood">neighbourhood</span> of Dimapur, and the country +lying between it and Doboka, the Cachar district, but when they arrived +or how long they stayed we have no means of ascertaining. They occupied +the first two or three ranges of the Burrails and stoutly contested +possession with the Naga invaders, and after they had been dispossessed +made a gallant attempt to retrieve their affairs by an attack on +Sephema. They entered the hills by the Diphoo gorge and constructed a +paved road up to the neighbourhood of Sephema where they would probably +have succeeded in their operations, but that the Sephema Nagas, skilful +then as <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25" name= +"pb25">25</a>]</span>now, in the use of poison, poisoned the waters and +destroyed a large portion of the invaders; the rest retreated to +Dimapur, and eventually left the neighbourhood and settled in Cachar, +to which they gave their name. There are still a good many Cacharees on +the banks of the Kopiti, in the neighbourhood of Mohung-dee-jood. They +are a fine hardy race, and in my time the Naga Hills police was largely +recruited from them. Under Captain Butler they did good service, and +would have gone anywhere when led by him.<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e922src" href="#xd20e922" name="xd20e922src">1</a> The Cacharees +were governed formerly by a race of despotic chiefs.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Kukis.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The Kukis are a wandering race consisting of several +tribes who have long been working up from the South. They were first +heard of as Kukis, in Manipur, between 1830 and 1840; though tribes of +the same race had long been subject to the Rajah of Manipur. The new +immigrants began to cause anxiety about the year 1845, and soon poured +into the hill tracts of Manipur in such numbers, as to drive away many +of the older inhabitants. Fortunately, the political agent (at this +time Lieutenant afterwards Colonel McCulloch)<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e932src" href="#xd20e932" name="xd20e932src">2</a> was a man well +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href="#pb26" name= +"pb26">26</a>]</span>able to cope with the situation. Cool and +resolute, he at once realised and faced the difficulty. Manipur in +those days, owing to intestine quarrels, could have done nothing, and +the Rajah Nur Singh gladly handed over the management of the new +arrivals to him.</p> +<p>Seeing that the Kukis had been driven north by kindred but more +powerful tribes, and that their first object was to secure land for +cultivation; McCulloch, as they arrived, settled them down, allotting +to them lands in different places according to their numbers, and where +their presence would be useful on exposed frontiers. He advanced them +large sums from his own pocket, assigning different duties to each +chief’s followers. Some were made into irregular troops, others +were told off to carry loads according to the customs of the state. +Thus in time many thousands of fierce Kukis were settled down as +peaceful subjects of Manipur, and Colonel McCulloch retained supreme +control over them to the last. So great was his influence, that he had +only to send round his silver mounted dao (Burmese sword) as a kind of +fiery cross, when all able-bodied men at once assembled at his +summons.</p> +<p>Colonel McCulloch’s policy of planting Kuki settlements on +exposed frontiers, induced the Government of Bengal to try a similar +experiment, and a large colony of Kukis were settled in 1855 in the +neighbourhood of Langting, to act as a barrier for North Cachar against +the raids of the Angami Nagas. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb27" +href="#pb27" name="pb27">27</a>]</span>experiment answered well to a +certain extent, and would have answered better, had we been a little +less timid. The Kukis are strictly monarchical, and their chiefs are +absolutely despotic, and may murder or sell their subjects into slavery +without a murmur of dissent. Their original home cannot be correctly +ascertained, but there seem to be traces of them as far south as the +Malay peninsula. They are readily distinguishable from the Nagas, and +are braver men. Their women are often very fair, and wear their hair in +a long thick plait down the back. The men are mostly copper coloured, +and have often good features.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Kutcha Nagas.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The tribe we call Kutcha Nagas, very much resemble the +Angamis, though of inferior physique. They are closely allied to the +Nagas in Manipur, as well as to the Angamis, and probably were pushed +in front of the latter from the Northern North-East, as the Kukis were +forced in by the pressure of stronger tribes to their South. They have +always been less warlike than their powerful neighbours, though they +could be troublesome at times.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Angami Nagas.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">A strong built, hardy, active race, the men averaging +5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet in height, and the women tall in proportion. +In colour they vary from a rich brown to a yellowish or light brown. +They have a manly independent bearing, and are bred up to war from +their earliest years. While the Kukis <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb28" href="#pb28" name="pb28">28</a>]</span>are monarchists, the +Nagas are republicans, and their Peumahs, or chiefs, are elected, and +though they often have great influence, they are in theory, only +<i>primus inter pares</i>, and are liable at any time to be displaced. +Practically they often remain in office for years, and are greatly +respected.</p> +<p>Where the Angamis came from must be uncertain till the languages of +our Eastern frontier are scientifically analysed. The late Mr. Damant, +a man of great talent and powers of research, had a valuable paper +regarding them in hand, but it perished in the insurrection of 1879. +The probability is, that they came originally from the south-eastern +corner of Thibet.</p> +<p>Some of the Maories of New Zealand reminded me of the Angamis. The +well-defined nose is a prominent characteristic of the last, as it is +of some of the inhabitants of Polynesia. The people of +Samagudting—that is, the adults in 1874—told me that they +had come from the north-east, and were the seventh generation that had +been there. When they first occupied their village, the site was, they +said, covered with the bones and tusks of elephants which had come +there to die.</p> +<p>Had I lived longer among the Nagas, I should have liked to have made +deeper researches into their language and past history; as it was, all +my time was taken up with my active duties, and I had not a moment to +spare.</p> +<p>Their dress is a short kilt of black cotton cloth, ornamented, in +the case of warriors, with rows of cowrie shells. They have handsome +cloths of dark blue and yellow thrown over their shoulders in cold +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29" name= +"pb29">29</a>]</span>weather. Their arms are spears and heavy short +swords, called by the Assamese name of <i>dao</i>; helmets and shields +of wicker work (used chiefly to cover the more vulnerable parts of the +body) and sometimes clothed with skins of tigers or bears. They have +also tails of wood decorated with goats’ hair dyed red. The +warspears are plain; the ornamental ones are covered with goats’ +hair dyed red, and are sometimes used in battle. Their drill is of a +most complicated style, and requires much practice. An Angami in full +war paint is a very formidable-looking individual. They are divided +into many clans. Several clans often inhabit one village, and it +frequently happened that two clans thus situated were at deadly feud +with each other.</p> +<p>Blood feuds were common among all the <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e984" title="Source: hill tribes">hill-tribes</span>, but the +system was carried to excess among the Angamis. Life for life was the +rule, and until each of the opposing parties had lost an equal number, +peace was impossible, and whenever members of one village met any +belonging to the other, hostilities were sure to result. Sometimes an +attempt was made to bring about a reconciliation, but then it +frequently happened that the number of slain to the credit of each were +unequal. Mozuma and Sephema might be at war, and Mozuma killed five, +whereas Sephema had killed only four. Sephema says, “I must kill +one more to make the balance, then I will treat for peace,” so +war continues. Some day Sephema has a chance, but kills two instead of +the <i>one</i> that was required; this gives her the advantage, and +Mozuma refuses to treat. So it goes on interminably. The position of a +small <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href="#pb30" name= +"pb30">30</a>]</span>village at war with a large one, was often +deplorable as no one dared to leave the village except under a strong +escort. I once knew a case of some Sephema men at feud with Mozuma, +hiring two women of the powerful village of Konoma to escort them along +the road as thus accompanied no one dare touch them.</p> +<p>Once at Piphima, when my assistant Mr. Needham was encamped there, +parties from two hostile villages suddenly met each other and rushed to +arms. He was equal to the occasion and stopped the combat. I made it a +criminal offence to fight on our road called the “Political +Path,” and it was generally respected as neutral ground.</p> +<p>No Angami could assume the “toga virilis,” in this case +the kilt ornamented with cowrie shells, already described, until he had +slain an enemy, and in the more powerful villages no girl could marry a +man unless he was so decorated. The cowrie ornaments were taken off +when a man was mourning the death of a relation.</p> +<p>To kill a baby in arms, or a woman, was accounted a greater feat +than killing a man, as it implied having penetrated to the innermost +recesses of an enemy’s country, whereas a man might be killed +anywhere by a successful ambush. I knew a man who had killed sixty +women and children, when on one occasion he happened to come upon them +after all the men had left the village on a hunting expedition.</p> +<p>Every Naga who was able to murder an enemy did so, and received +great commendation for it by all his friends. Later, when I was in +Manipur, I had a pleasant young fellow as interpreter. He often took my +boys out for a walk when he had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31" +href="#pb31" name="pb31">31</a>]</span>nothing else to do, and was a +careful, trustworthy man. Once I asked him how many people he had +killed (he wore the cowrie kilt, a sure sign he had killed some one). A +modest blush suffused his face as if he did not like to boast of such a +good deed, and he mildly said, “Two, a woman and a +girl!”</p> +<p>The Angamis when on friendly terms are an agreeable people to deal +with, polite, courteous, and hospitable. I never knew any one take more +pains or more successfully not to hurt the susceptibilities of those +they are talking to, indeed they show a tact and good feeling worthy of +imitation. My wife and I soon knew all the villagers well, and often +visited them, when we were always offered beer, and asked to come into +their verandahs and sit down, and just as we were leaving, our host +would search the hen’s nests to give us a few eggs. The beer we +never took, but many Europeans like it and find it wholesome. It is +made of rice and has rather a sharp taste. Their houses are large +substantial structures built of wood and bamboo thatched with grass, +and the eaves come low down. Houses with any pretensions always have +verandahs. Besides the houses, there are granaries, often at a distance +for fear of fire. The Angamis bury their dead in and about their +villages, and for a time, decorate them with some of the belongings of +the deceased. Naturally they strongly object to the graves being +disturbed, and in making alterations I was careful not to hurt their +feelings.</p> +<p>The more powerful villages in the interior of the hills have a large +area of cultivation on terraces cut out of the hillside, and carefully +irrigated. Some of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href="#pb32" +name="pb32">32</a>]</span>the terraces go up the hillsides to a great +height, and show considerable skill in their formation. On these +terraces lowland rice is grown and is very productive. Some of the +smaller outlying villages like Samagudting have only ordinary hill +cultivation, where upland rice is grown. The terrace land used to be +greatly valued, and was often sold at prices equal to £22 to +£25 per acre!</p> +<p>The Angamis, in common with most hill-tribes that I have come +across, have a vague indefinite belief in a supreme being, but look on +him as too great and good to injure them. They believe themselves also +to be subject to the influence of evil spirits, whom it is their +constant endeavour to appease by sacrifices. Every misfortune is, as a +rule, ascribed to evil spirits, and much money is spent on appeasing +them, the usual way being to offer fowls, of which the head, feet, and +entrails are offered to the demon, with many incantations. The other +parts are eaten by the sacrificer.</p> +<p>All kinds of animals are readily eaten by the Angamis, and those +dying a natural death are not rejected. Dogs’ flesh is highly +esteemed. When a man wants to have a delicate dish, he starves his dog +for a day to make him unusually voracious, and then cooks a huge dish +of rice on which he feeds the hungry beast. As soon as the dog has +eaten his fill, he is knocked on the head and roasted, cut up and +divided, and the rice being taken out, is considered the <i>bonne +bouche</i>. The Manipur dogs are regularly bred for sale to the +hill-tribes, Nagas included, and a portion of the bazaar, or market, +used to be allotted to them. I have seen a string of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33" name="pb33">33</a>]</span>nineteen +dogs being led away to be strangled. Poor things, they seemed to +realise that all was not well.</p> +<p>The Naga women are not handsome but very pleasant-looking, and many +of the girls are pretty, but soon age with the hard toil they have to +perform; working in the fields and carrying heavy loads up endless +hills. They have plenty of spirit and can generally hold their own. +They do not marry till they are nearly or quite grown up. Divorce can +be easily obtained when there is an equal division of goods. Often a +young man takes advantage of this, and marries a rich old widow, and +soon divorces her, receiving half her property, when he is in a +position to marry a nice young girl. The tribal name of the Angami +Nagas is “Tengima.” Naga is a name given by the inhabitants +of the plains, and in the Assamese language means “naked.” +As some of the Naga tribes are seen habitually in that state, the name +was <span class="corr" id="xd20e1020" title= +"Source: abitrarily">arbitrarily</span> applied to them all. It is the +greatest mistake to connect them with the snake worshippers, “Nag +Bungsees” of India. Neither Nagas or Manipuris, or any tribes on +the eastern frontier, are addicted to this worship, or have any +traditions connected with it, and any snake, cobra (Nag) or otherwise, +would receive small mercy at their hands. The slightest personal +acquaintance with the Assamese and their language, would have dispelled +this myth for ever.</p> +<p>The Nagas are skilful iron-workers and turn out very handsome +spears. Their women weave substantial and pretty coloured cloths, and +every man knows enough of rough carpentering to enable him <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34" name="pb34">34</a>]</span>to build +his house, and make pestles and mortars for husking rice. They make +rough pottery, but without the potter’s wheel.</p> +<p>After Ghumbeer Singh’s Expedition, our next dealings with the +Angamis were in 1833, when Lieut. Gordon, adjutant of the Manipur Levy, +accompanied the Rajah of Manipur with a large force of Manipuris into +the Angami hills. On this occasion, Kohima and other villages were +subdued, as already stated, and an annual tribute exacted by +Manipur.</p> +<p>So far as the British territories were concerned, Naga raids went on +as usual, but nothing was done till early in January 1839, when Mr. +Grange, sub-Assistant Commissioner of the Nowgong District, was +despatched with a detachment of the First Assam Sebundies (now 43rd +Goorkha Light Infantry), fifty men of the Cachar Infantry, and some +Shan Militia, with orders to try and repress these annual outrages. His +expedition was ill supplied, but fortunately returned without any +severe losses. His route lay through North Cachar to Berrimeh; thence, +<i>viâ</i> Razepima to Samagudting and Mohung Deejood; beyond +gaining local knowledge there was no result, except perhaps to show +that a well-armed party could march where it liked through the +hills.</p> +<p>In December 1839, Mr. Grange again visited the hills, and, excepting +1843, an expedition was sent into the hills every year till 1846 when a +post was permanently established at Samagudting. None of these +expeditions had any really satisfactory result. The Angamis submitted +to our troops at the time, and directly we retreated, murder and the +carrying <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb35" href="#pb35" name= +"pb35">35</a>]</span>off of slaves re-commenced. The establishment of +the post at Samagudting had the effect of improving our relations with +the people of that village; and Mozuma was always inclined to be +friendly; beyond this nothing was accomplished.</p> +<p>In August 1849, Bog Chand Darogal, a brave Assamese who was in +charge of Samagudting, was murdered by one of the clans of Mozuma, +owing to the rash way in which he interfered in a dispute with another +clan, which latter <span class="corr" id="xd20e1040" title= +"Source: remaind">remained</span> faithful to us, and thus led to +another expedition on a large scale. Finally, in December 1850, a large +force was sent up with artillery. Kohima, which had sent a challenge, +was destroyed on February 11th, 1851. In this last engagement over +three hundred Nagas were killed, and our prestige thoroughly +established. We might then, with great advantage to the people and our +own districts, have occupied a permanent post, and while protecting our +districts that had suffered so sorely from Naga raids, have spread +civilisation far and wide among the hill-tribes. Of course we did +nothing of the kind; on such occasions the Government of India always +does the wrong thing; it was done now, and, instead of occupying a new +position, we retreated, even abandoning our old post at Samagudting, +and only maintaining a small body of Shan Militia at Dimapur. The Nagas +ascribed <span class="corr" id="xd20e1043" title= +"Source: out">our</span> retreat to fear, the periodical raids on our +unfortunate villages were renewed, and unheeded by us; and finally, in +1856, we <span class="corr" id="xd20e1046" title= +"Source: withrew">withdrew</span> the detachment from Dimapur and +abandoned the post.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1050width"><a href="images/maph.gif"><img src= +"images/map.gif" alt="The Naga Hills and Manipur." width="720" height= +"552"></a> +<p class="figureHead">The Naga Hills and Manipur.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 35.</i></p> +</div> +<p>After that, the Nagas ran riot, and one outrage after another was +committed. In 1862 the guard <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href= +"#pb36" name="pb36">36</a>]</span>and village of Borpathar were +attacked and, one Sepoy and thirteen villagers killed and two children +carried off as slaves, but no notice was taken; it was not till 1866 +that, wearied out by repeated outrages and insults, we determined to +establish ourselves in the hills, and once for all put down +raiding.</p> +<p>A kind of vague boundary between Manipur and the Naga Hills had been +laid down in 1842, by Lieutenant Biggs on our part, and Captain Gordon +on the part of the Durbar, but in 1851, when utterly sick of Naga +affairs, we determined on a policy of non-intervention, permission in +writing was given to the Durbar to extend its authority over the Naga +villages on our side of the border. This must be remembered later on. +Failing any intention on our part to annex the hills, it would have +been good policy to have re-organised the Manipur territory, and to +have aided the Maharajah to annex and subdue as much as he could under +certain restrictions. Had this been done we should have saved ourselves +much trouble. Personally, I would rather see the Naga Hills properly +administered by ourselves, but the strong rule of Manipur would have +been far better than the state of things that prevailed for many years +after 1851. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37" name= +"pb37">37</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e922" href="#xd20e922src" name="xd20e922">1</a></span> Captain +Butler was struck by a spear from a Naga ambuscade, near the village of +Pangti in the Naga Hills on December 25, 1876. He died on January 7. He +had held the appointment of Political Agent for seven years, and was +the son of Colonel Butler, the author of ‘Scenes in Assam’ +and ‘A Sketch in Assam,’ the earliest accounts of that +eastern border.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e932" href="#xd20e932src" name="xd20e932">2</a></span> “The +influence exercised by Colonel McCulloch as a political agent at +Manipur was most beneficial,” wrote the <i>Times</i>, April 1, +1891, “and since his time no one has been more successful than +Colonel Johnstone, who took charge in 1877, and rendered conspicuous +service by raising the siege of <span class="corr" id="xd20e939" title= +"Source: Kohimas">Kohima</span> by the Nagas in +1879.”—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch4" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter IV.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Value of keeping a promise—Episode of +Sallajee—Protection given to small villages, and the large ones +defied—“Thorough Government of India” views—A +plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Almost from the day I took charge, I let it be known +that I was, as natives say, “a man of one word,” and that +if I said a thing, I meant it. If I promised a thing, whether a present +or punishment, the man got it; and if I refused any request, months of +importunity would not move me. This rule saved me much time and worry; +instead of being pestered for weeks with some petition, in the hope +that my patience would be worn out, I simply said Yes, or No, and the +people soon learned that my decision was final. Later on, during the +Naga Hills campaign, I found that my ways had not been forgotten, and +this made dealing with the people much simpler than it might have +been.</p> +<p>A certain number of the villages kept one or two men, as the case +might be, constantly in attendance on me to represent them. These were +called delegates, and received ten rupees each per mensem. I gave the +strictest orders to these men not to engage in their tribal raids, but +to remain absolutely neutral. Sephema had two delegates, Sejile and +Sallajee by name, and, one day, it was reported to me that the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" href="#pb38" name= +"pb38">38</a>]</span>last had joined in a raid by his village on +Mozuma, and I instantly summoned him to attend and put him on his trial +for disobeying a lawful order. Some wise-acres in the place shook their +heads, and doubted if I were strong enough to punish, or the +<span class="corr" id="xd20e1078" title= +"Source: advisibility">advisability</span> of doing so; but I held that +an order must be obeyed, otherwise, it was no use issuing orders, also, +that this was an opportunity of making an example. Of course it was an +experiment, as no one had been punished before for a similar offence, +and I well knew that resistance on his part would mean that to assert +my authority I must attack and destroy Sephema, but I felt the time had +come for vigorous action, and was prepared to go through with it. I +tried Sallajee, found him guilty, and sentenced him to six +months’ imprisonment in Tezpore jail. In giving judgment, I said, +“You have not been guilty of a disgraceful offence, therefore, I +do not sentence you to hard labour, and shall not have you bound or +handcuffed like a thief; but, remember, you cannot escape me, so do not +be foolish enough to run away from the man in charge of you.” I +then sent him in charge of two police sepoys through one hundred miles +of forest, and he underwent his imprisonment without attempting to get +away. Right thankful I was that my experiment succeeded. Sallajee lived +to fight against us, during the campaign in the Naga Hills in +1879–80.</p> +<p>The orders of the Government of India were strictly against our +responsibilities being extended. We took tribute from Samagudting, but +it was the only village we considered as under our direct rule, and +that only so long as it suited us. Before leaving <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39" name= +"pb39">39</a>]</span>Calcutta, the Foreign Secretary said to me +emphatically, when I urged an extension of our sway—“but +those villages (the Angami Nagas) are not British territory, and we do +not want to extend the ‘red line.’”</p> +<p>However, Government may lay down rules, but as long as they are not +sound, they cannot be kept to by artificial bonds, and sooner or later +events prove stronger than theories. The fact is, that no Government of +late years had ever interested itself in the Eastern Frontier tribes, +except so far as to coax them or bribe them to keep quiet. The Abors on +the banks of the Burrhampooter had long been paid +“blackmail,” and any subterfuge was resorted to, that would +stave off the day of reckoning which was nevertheless inevitable.</p> +<p>As regards the Nagas, this timidity was highly reprehensible. We had +acquired such a prestige, that the least sign of vigorous action on our +part was sure to be crowned with success, so long as we did not make +some foolish mistake.</p> +<p>The people in the hills knew that we objected to the system of +raiding, and could not understand why, such being the case, we did not +put it down, and ascribed our not doing so to weakness, wherein they +were right, and inability wherein they were wrong. The less powerful +villages would at any time have been glad of our protection, and one of +the most powerful—Mozuma, was anxious to become subject to us. +Offers of submission had been made once or twice, but no one liked to +take the responsibility of going against the policy and orders of the +Government. At last an event occurred which brought <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40" name="pb40">40</a>]</span>things +to a crisis, and forced us either to adopt a strong policy, or make +ourselves contemptible by a confession of weakness, and +indifference.</p> +<p>Towards the end of March 1874, a deputation came to me from the +village of Mezeffina begging for protection against Mozuma, with whom +they had a feud, and from whom for some reason or other they daily +expected an attack. They offered to become British subjects and pay +revenue in return for protection. I considered the matter carefully, +and before I had given my decision, crowds of old people, and women +carrying their children, came in asking me to save their lives. I at +once decided to grant their request, and promised them what they asked, +on condition that they paid up a year’s tribute in advance. This +they at once did, and I immediately sent a messenger to proclaim to +Mozuma that the people of Mezeffina were British subjects, and to +threaten them or any one else with dire vengeance if they dared to lay +hands on them. Our new subjects asked me and my wife, to go out and +receive their submission in person, an invitation which we accepted, +and next day a large number of men turned up to carry my wife, and our +baggage, and that of our escort, consisting of twenty men.</p> +<p>The Mezeffina men rested for the night in Samagudting, and early on +the following morning we started, and reached the village in good time, +where we were received with great demonstrations of respect. We spent +the night there, and then were conveyed back to Samagudting, after a +very pleasant visit.</p> +<p>I did not underrate the grave responsibility that I <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href="#pb41" name="pb41">41</a>]</span>incurred +in going against the policy of Government, but I felt it was utterly +impossible that I, as their representative, could quietly stand by, and +see a savage massacre perpetrated, within sight of our station of +Samagudting. There is no doubt that this would have speedily followed +had I sent the people away without acceding to their wishes. Of course, +I might have used my influence with Mozuma to prevent a raid in this +particular instance, but that <i>would have been giving protection</i>, +and, I argued, if we give protection, let us get a little revenue to +help to pay for it. Why should all the advantage be on one side? +Besides a half-and-half policy would never have succeeded. +“Thorough” should be the motto of all who deal with savage +and half-civilised races; a promise to refer to Government is of little +avail when people are thinking of each other’s blood. Action, +immediate action, is what is required. A failure to realise this, +brought on later the Mozuma expedition of 1877–78, in which a +valuable officer lost his life.</p> +<p>Besides the obvious objections I have pointed out, any attempt to +make terms in favour of one village after another by negotiations with +their adversaries, would have involved us in so many complications, +that it would probably have ended in a combination against us.</p> +<p>I reported the matter to Government, and before I could receive any +answer, the village of Sitekima which had a feud with Sephema came in +and asked for the same favour to be accorded to it, as had been granted +to Mezeffina. I accordingly took them over on the same terms, and again +issued a proclamation <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42" +name="pb42">42</a>]</span>calling on all people to respect their rights +as British subjects.</p> +<p>Soon after I heard from the Chief Commissioner of Assam, directing +me to take over no more villages without a reference. However, this +could not be, there was no telegraph in those days, and the tide in +favour of asking for our protection had set in in earnest, and must be +taken at the flood. ”<i lang="la">Vestigia nulla +retrorsum</i>” there was no retreat; and having acted according +to my judgment for the best interests of the State, I felt bound to +take further responsibility on myself, when necessary. Accordingly when +the little village of Phenina applied for protection and offered +revenue, I at once acceded, and accepted their allegiance as British +subjects, with the result that they were left in peace by their +powerful neighbours, and had no more anxiety as to their safety. +Phenina was followed by several other villages, to whom I granted the +same terms.</p> +<p>The Mozuma Nagas were always an intelligent set of men, and liked to +be in the forefront of any movement. Seeing the part that other +villages were taking, they came forward and offered to pay revenue, if +we would establish a guard of police in their village, and set up a +school for their children to attend. This was a question involving a +considerable expenditure of money, and as they were not in need of +protection, I felt that I could not accede to their request without +further reference, but I sent on the proposal to Government with a +strong recommendation that it should be adopted. The consideration of +it was put off for a time, and when very tardily my recommendation was +accepted, the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43" href="#pb43" name= +"pb43">43</a>]</span>Mozuma people had, as I predicted, changed their +minds. Such cases are of constant occurrence. When will our rulers take +the story of the Sibylline books to heart?</p> +<p>The question of education generally, was one that greatly interested +me, my success in Keonjhur<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1122src" href= +"#xd20e1122" name="xd20e1122src">1</a> in the tributary Mehals of +Orissa, where I had introduced schools, having been very great. In +combination with other suggestions, I strongly urged the advisability +of establishing a regular system of education, including religious +instruction, under a competent clergyman of the Church of England. I +pointed out that the Nagas had no religion; that they were highly +intelligent and capable of receiving civilisation; that with it they +would want a religion, and that we might just as well give them our +own, and make them in that way a source of strength, by thus mutually +attaching them to us. Failing this, I predicted that, following the +example of other hill-tribes, they would sooner or later become debased +Hindoos or Mussulmans, and in the latter case, as we knew by +experience, be a constant source of trouble and annoyance, Mussulman +converts in Assam and Eastern Bengal, being a particularly disagreeable +and bigoted set. My suggestion did not find favour with the +authorities, and I deeply regret it. A fine, interesting race like the +Angamis, might, as a Christian tribe, occupy a most useful position on +our Eastern Frontier, and I feel strongly <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb44" href="#pb44" name="pb44">44</a>]</span>that we are not justified +in allowing them to be corrupted and gradually “converted” +by the miserable, bigoted, caste-observing Mussulman of Bengal, men who +have not one single good quality in common with the manly Afghans, and +other real Mussulman tribes. I do not like to think it, but, unless we +give the Nagas a helping hand in time, such is sure to be their fate, +and we shall have ourselves to thank when they are utterly +corrupted.</p> +<p>The late General Dalton, C.S.I., when Commissioner of Chota Nagpure, +did his utmost to aid Christian Mission among the wild Kols; his +argument being like mine, that they wanted a religion, and that were +they Christians, they would be a valuable counterpoise in time of +trouble to the vast non-Christian population of Behar. In the same way +it cannot be doubted, that a large population of Christian hill-men +between Assam and Burmah, would be a valuable prop to the State. +Properly taught and judiciously handled, the Angamis would have made a +fine manly set of Christians, of a type superior to most Indian native +converts, and probably devoted to our rule. As things stand at present, +I fear they will be gradually corrupted and lose the good qualities, +which have made them attractive in the past, and that, as time goes on, +unless some powerful counter influence is brought to bear on them, they +will adopt the vile, bigoted type of Mahommedanism prevalent in Assam +and Cachar, and instead of becoming a tower of strength to us, be a +perpetual weakness and source of annoyance. I earnestly hope that I may +be wrong, and that their future may be as bright a one as I could wish +for them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" href="#pb45" name= +"pb45">45</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1122" href="#xd20e1122src" name="xd20e1122">1</a></span> As +Assist-sup. of the tributary Mehals, Sir James (then Lieutenant) +Johnstone endowed schools at Keonjhur and presented the Government with +some land he had bought for the purpose. When the Rajah, during whose +minority he had managed the affairs of Keonjhur as political officer, +came of age, the agency was abolished for economy.—<span class= +"sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch5" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter V.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Dimapur—A terrible +storm—Cultivation—Aggression by Konoma—My +ultimatum—Konoma submits—Birth of a son—Forest +flowers—A fever patient—Proposed change of +station—Leave Naga Hills—March through the +forest—Depredation by tigers—Calcutta—Return to +England.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Once more before the weather began to be unpleasantly +hot, we went down to Dimapur that I might inspect the road and a rest +house being built at Nowkatta. Dimapur though hot, was pleasant enough +in the evening, when I used to row my wife about on the large tank in a +canoe which just held us both. We could see a few feet below the +surface, the remains of the post set up when a tank is dedicated to the +deity. This post is usually many feet above the water, but here it had +rotted away from age. On a tree close to the rest house I shot a +chestnut coloured flying squirrel.</p> +<p>One sultry afternoon I rode out alone to Nowkatta. About half-way I +was stopped by a sudden storm, one of the most terrific I have ever +seen; the wind howled through the forest, and the trees swayed to and +fro literally like blades of grass. As the storm increased, trees were +torn up by the roots right and left, and some that were very firmly +rooted were shattered in pieces. Many of these trees were 80 to 120 +feet in height, and large in proportion, but the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46" name="pb46">46</a>]</span>wind was +so high that I never heard the sound of the crash. I hardly expected to +escape being crushed by a falling tree, and nothing but the extreme +activity of my pony, a little Manipuri, saved me. I was at length +enabled to get on to Nowkatta, but as I returned, I had much difficulty +in making my way through the masses of fallen trees which formed an +obstacle often six feet in height, and I could only pass them by +penetrating the dense underwood, and riding round one end.</p> +<p>I returned to Dimapur later than I expected and drenched by the +soaking rain. Next day we went back to Samagudting very glad to be +again in a cooler atmosphere. We both paid for our visit to the +lowlands in a sharp attack of intermittent fever. Luckily, my wife +speedily recovered; but it told on my system, already saturated with +malaria and was the forerunner of constant attacks.</p> +<p>Except for its unhealthiness, Dimapur was a nice place, and, if +properly opened out, and cultivated, the country would be far more +salubrious. For this reason I advocated families being induced to +settle there as cultivators; and I had a scheme for establishing a +Police Militia Reserve in that district. I thought that a certain +number of the Naga Hills police might with advantage be discharged +every year and enlisted as reserve men, liable to serve when needed in +case of trouble; a reduced rate of pay to be given to each man, and a +grant of land to cultivate. I believe the system would have worked +well, but it was not sanctioned.</p> +<p>An incident occurred in the month of August which might have proved +serious. A native of a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href="#pb47" +name="pb47">47</a>]</span>Kutcha Naga village within sight of +Samagudting came to complain that, while gathering wild tea-seed for +sale, he had been driven off by a Konoma Naga. Konoma, though not the +most populous village, had long been considered the most powerful and +warlike in the hills, and a threat from one of its members was almost a +sentence of death to a man from a weak village. The Merema clan also, +one of the worst in the hills for lawless deeds, had never made its +submission to Captain Butler, though it had on one occasion to his +predecessor. On hearing the man’s complaint, I at once sent off a +message by a Naga calling upon the chiefs of Konoma to come in to me, +and also to cease molesting their neighbours; but the man returned, +saying that they refused to come in, and intended to do as they liked +with the tea-seed, as it was theirs. This was more than I could put up +with, and I selected a particularly trustworthy man, a naik (corporal) +in the police named Kurum Singh,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1152src" +href="#xd20e1152" name="xd20e1152src">1</a> who knew the Naga language, +and would, I was convinced, speak out fearlessly, and deliver my +message. I sent him off at once to Konoma to call upon the head-men to +come in without delay, and make their humble submission to me within a +day and a half of receiving the summons, failing which I would attack +and destroy their village. Kurum Singh left, and I felt rather anxious, +as Konoma contained five times as many warriors as I had police all +told, and it occupied a strong position; however, I felt I had done my +duty. It was a great satisfaction when Kurum Singh returned, saying +that the chiefs were coming in, and they did so <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href="#pb48" name="pb48">48</a>]</span>within +the stipulated time, and made their submission and presented me with a +large state spear as a token of it. They also humbly apologised and +promised never to molest that Kutcha Naga village again; and when I +spoke of the Queen, begged me to write to her and say, that she must +not believe any idle tales against the Konoma men, as they would be her +humble servants. It was a satisfactory ending to what might have been a +troublesome business. The state spear now ornaments my hall.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1158width"><img src="images/p048.jpg" alt= +"Fulford Hall." width="618" height="519"> +<p class="figureHead">Fulford Hall.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 48.</i></p> +</div> +<p>On the 23rd June, my wife presented me with a son, and he being the +first child of pure European parentage born in the hills, the Nagas of +Samagudting took great interest in the baby, and old Yatsolé the +Péumah, said he should be their chief and named him “Naga +Rajah.” The friendly women and girls from the village constantly +came to see him. We liked the hills and the people, and the work so +much that we both felt we could willingly have passed our lives among +them. All the same, our accommodation was really most wretched, and +food was bad and scarce, and water scarcer. As the rainy season +advanced the place grew more and more unhealthy, and having a baby to +attend to, my wife never left Samagudting. I continued to go down to +Dimapur occasionally, and sometimes rode out with my friend Needham to +inspect the path that was being cut to Mohung Deejood and a rest house +being built at a place in the forest on that road, called Borsali. It +was pleasant to have a companion during a long lonely ride. Needham was +an indefatigable worker, and always ready for a dash. He made a capital +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49" name= +"pb49">49</a>]</span>frontier officer, and has since greatly +distinguished himself on the N.-E. Frontier.</p> +<p>Towards the end of August, the <span class="corr" id="xd20e1172" +title="Source: Vauda">Vanda</span> Cærulea orchids began to come +into flower. There was a magnificent plant of them in a large old tree +on the summit of the hill, indeed the most splendid specimen of their +kind that I ever saw; but wild flowers, many really beautiful, were +generally procurable, especially a small snow-white flower rather like +a periwinkle that grew in the jungle on a small ever-green bush. Ferns, +including maidenhair, were very plentiful, and we made collections of +them in our morning and evening walks. These walks often led us past +stray huts, and once my wife was asked to come into one and prescribe +for a sick Naga woman. We both entered it and finding that the woman +had fever, we told her husband to keep her cool and quiet, and promised +some medicine. When we again went to see her, the hut, about nine feet +by seven feet in size, was full of little fires on the floor, over +which several Nagas were drying strips of flesh from an elephant that +had been killed a few miles away. The temperature must have been about +110 degrees, so little wonder that the poor woman was no better. The +husband said she would not take her medicine, and when in our presence +he attempted to give it she hit him on the head; yet he wore the +warrior’s kilt, so had taken at least one life. When my wife sat +down by her and gave her the medicine she took it readily. Towards the +end of the rainy season many were laid low by fever. Natives of other +parts of India until thoroughly acclimatised, suffer greatly from the +diseases peculiar to jungle districts, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb50" href="#pb50" name="pb50">50</a>]</span>and our servants were not +exceptions to the rule. Once acclimatised, a Hindoostani seems able to +stand anything. It used to be said in my regiment, the 1st Assam Light +Infantry Battalion, now 42nd, that Hindoostani recruits spent their +first three years’ service in hospital! I am sure that something +of the same kind might have been said of those who came to the Naga +Hills before the headquarters were removed to Kohima.</p> +<p>Captain Butler, recognising the unsuitableness of Samagudting for a +station, had recommended the removal of the headquarters to Woka, in +the Lotah Naga country, and about sixty-three miles from Kohima. I +spoke to him on the subject, and pointed out the superior advantages of +Kohima as a central position, dominating the Angami Naga country. He +quite agreed with me, but said he had advocated Woka as being nearer +the plains, nearer water carriage, and altogether a more comfortable +situation, especially for the officers. I went into the whole subject +most carefully, and before leaving the Naga Hills I thought it right to +record my opinion in a memorandum to the Government of Assam. This I +did, pointing out as forcibly as I could the very superior advantages +of Kohima, and urging most strongly that it should be adopted as our +headquarters station in the Naga Hills. As I was only the officiating +agent, I could not expect my views to carry as much weight as Captain +Butler’s, but convinced as I was, I was bound to state them. The +question was not settled for some years when Kohima was the site +selected, and it has ever since been the headquarters station. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51" name= +"pb51">51</a>]</span></p> +<p>I had never got over the attack of fever I had in April, and as the +rainy season advanced, and we were for days together enveloped in mist, +I had constant attacks, with other complications, and as Captain Butler +was coming out in November, and the doctor strongly recommended me to +go to England again, I determined to apply for leave. My friend Needham +had gone on leave to Shillong, so I could not think of starting till he +returned. He was due at Samagudting early in November, and I prepared +to leave then. It was with most sincere regret that we made +arrangements for starting. We had got used to the discomforts of the +place and had been very happy there and liked the people, and felt that +they liked us; the cold weather too was just beginning and everything +around us looked beautiful.</p> +<p>I had determined to march straight through the forest to Doboka, and +thence take boat down the Kullung river to Gowhatty. It was a dreadful +march to undertake, along a mere track untraversed by any European for +years, but my wife liked the idea of it, and it was shorter than the +route <i>viâ</i> Nigriting. On November 6th, we reluctantly said +“good-bye” to all our kind friends at Samagudting and +marched to Dimapur, where we halted next day to get all our things into +order. Some of the chiefs of Samagudting accompanied us so far on our +way and bade us a sorrowful adieu on the 7th. One old fellow took quite +an affectionate farewell of our baby Dick. When I saw him again in +1879, he was blind, and one of his pretty little girls was dying.</p> +<p>We marched through dense forest on the 8th to <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href="#pb52" name="pb52">52</a>]</span>Borsali, +my wife riding and carrying the baby in her arms, there being no other +mode of progression along such a bad road. On the 9th after seven +hours’ actual marching, we reached Mohung Deejood, a place +prettily situated on the banks of the Jumoona river with the last speck +of the Rengma Hills standing out in high relief behind the village, but +at some distance from it. Next day we again had a tiring march of +eleven hours, including a halt for breakfast at a place called +“Silbheta” where there are splendid waterfalls, and did not +reach our halting place, Bokuleea, till 6 P.M. The last two marches had +been through a country devastated by tigers which had literally eaten +up the population; each day we passed deserted village sites. At +Bokuleea we made rafts and floated down the river to Doboka, which we +reached on November 13th.</p> +<p>Doboka is situated close to the hill of the same name and was a +prominent object from Samagudting. There we took boats, and travelled +in them down the Kullung river. We reached the junction with the +Burrhampooter at daybreak on November 17th, and Gowhatty at midday. I +was most thankful to see my wife and child safe in the Dak Bungalow +after what was for delicate people a perilous journey, though an +interesting and enjoyable one, through a country hardly ever traversed +by European officials, and never by women and children. After a few +days at Gowhatty to rest ourselves, we departed by steamer for +Goalundo, arriving there early on November 29th, and immediately left +for Calcutta, which we reached the same evening and went to stay with +our kind friends the Rivers Thompsons, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb53" href="#pb53" name="pb53">53</a>]</span>with whom we had +travelled out to India in 1873. Glad as we were to be in civilised +quarters once more after all our wanderings, we could not help +regretting the kindly genial people we had left, and the beautiful +scenery of the forest and mountain land, where we had lived so long and +so happily.</p> +<p>On arrival in Calcutta, I went before the Medical Board, but not +liking to go to England again so soon, I applied for three +months’ leave to visit the North-West Provinces for change of +air, and we visited Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, and other towns. I do +not attempt to describe them, as it has been often done by abler pens +than mine. The after symptoms of malaria increased, and it was vain to +prolong my stay in India in the hope of a cure. The Medical Board said +my appearance was sufficient without examination, so we left Calcutta +by the next steamer, going by “long sea” to avoid the +fatiguing journey across India to Bombay. After unusually rough weather +in the Mediterranean and off the coast of Spain, we landed at +Southampton, on March 9th, at 9 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, and went +on to London next morning. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href= +"#pb54" name="pb54">54</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1152" href="#xd20e1152src" name="xd20e1152">1</a></span> I +rewarded Kurum, and he distinguished himself later on.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch6" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter VI.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Return to India—Attached to Foreign +Office—Imperial assemblage at Delhi—Almorah—Appointed +to Manipur—Journey to Shillong—Cherra Poojee—Colonel +McCulloch—Question of ceremony.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train, +are more easily acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in +England, including four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical +authorities seem to consider, and very justly, a <i>sine quâ +non</i>, might give a man a good chance if he never again visited a +malarious district, otherwise, my own experience shows me that two +years are nothing. Every time I have gone before a Medical Board in +London, preparatory to returning to duty, their last charge has been, +“You must never again go to a malarious district!” Medical +Boards propose, and Government and circumstances dispose.</p> +<p>I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and +left for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November, +where I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better, +and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra +attachés being required for the Imperial Assemblage.</p> +<p>I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant, +the like of which this generation <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55" +href="#pb55" name="pb55">55</a>]</span>will probably never witness +again, under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an +average eighteen hours’ work out of each twenty-four, I was well +repaid by being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and +also became acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar, +Sir Dinkur Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical +celebrities. The Viceroy’s reception-tent at night was a grand +sight, filled with gallant soldiers, European and native, and great +statesmen.</p> +<p>Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but +savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly +deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs +and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those +whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese +Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of men. +I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger Siamese +officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were provided +with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at one table in +European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the British officer +attached to them.</p> +<p>I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days +in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife, +who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set +out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to +reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb56" href="#pb56" name="pb56">56</a>]</span></p> +<p>We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were +covered with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in +snow, and the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an +avalanche, and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak +Bungalow, or rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold +intense, the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days +we got into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in +the district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my +records, consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the +Singpho tribes.</p> +<p>As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined +for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the mode +of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful, and she +obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies, which were a +help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of course very +different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.</p> +<p>The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an +appointment. I could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta, +but was not well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut. +Durand, who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved. +Would I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on +July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short +notice is part of an Indian official’s life, and the prospect of +work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta, as +the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb57" href="#pb57" name="pb57">57</a>]</span>and the +heat was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and +stayed for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.</p> +<p>As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see +me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so we +proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night’s journey from Calcutta, +and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we changed +into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and across great +jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through high grass +growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we reached a +place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming narrower, +where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the only +conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the river +abounds.</p> +<p>From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass +jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through forest +scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers and flowers +overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Ghât, where the +ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the night in the +Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as Thuria Ghât +is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems to be an +exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.</p> +<p>Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had +brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to take +them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb58" href="#pb58" name="pb58">58</a>]</span>their +wages from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been +receiving, but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer +(a compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the +other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in very +disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as they +demanded an enormous increase of wages.</p> +<p>The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very +last, and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had +servants, as there were none at Thuria Ghât rest house; as it +was, we managed very well, and were prepared to march in the morning +before the coolies were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring +march up the hill to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in +baskets on men’s backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in +the intense heat to be very fatiguing, though we halted to rest +half-way. However, when we reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000 +feet above Thuria Ghât, the cool air speedily set me right, and +we all enjoyed the scenery, hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance, +deep valleys, and the lowlands of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as +the eye could reach. We had a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a +cool night at last.</p> +<p>Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to +Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by +the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I., +who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge +wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59" href="#pb59" name= +"pb59">59</a>]</span>political officer in the Naga Hills, who was +coming there later on, I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we +settled down comfortably till the early part of October—a very +pleasant arrangement for us instead of facing the intense heat of the +Cachar Valley in August. It gave me a good opportunity of looking over +the records of the Chief Commissioner’s office, where I found +much relating to Manipur, but I fear that it was lost when the Record +Office was burnt down some years ago, the copies also having been +destroyed in Manipur during the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for +leaving came, and we packed up our things and prepared once more to set +off on our travels.</p> +<p>Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who, +since retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong, +and asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him +regarding Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all +questions, telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and +pointing out the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness +by writing to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had +seen of me, he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on +together. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href="#pb60" name= +"pb60">60</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch7" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter VII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Start for Manipur—March over the +hills—Lovely scenery—View of the valleys—State +reception—The Residency—Visitors.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Lowremba Subadar, an excellent old fellow, formerly in +the service of Colonel McCulloch, was sent to Shillong to be in +attendance on me, and of course to find out all he could about me and +report the result. Before I left, he sent a note to the Maharajah of my +requirements in the way of coolies, etc., for our long journey of ten +days between Cachar and Manipur, and I also intimated that, as the +representative of the British Government, and as one who well knew what +was due to me as such, I should expect to be received with proper +ceremony.</p> +<p>This was a point on which I laid much stress, as my experience had +taught me that in a native state so tenacious of its dignity and +ancient customs as Manipur, my future success depended in a great +measure on my scrupulously requiring all that I was entitled to, and as +much more as I could get. It had been a complaint against one of my +predecessors that he had been discourteous, and I determined that the +Manipuris should not have to complain of me on that score, and in my +letters I took care to be as courteous and considerate as possible. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61" name= +"pb61">61</a>]</span></p> +<p>On former occasions it had been the custom for a new political agent +to enter the capital unattended, and to call on the Maharajah the next +day, the latter repaying the visit a day later. This I did not consider +sufficient, and I determined that he should come out to meet me in +state. When Colonel McCulloch returned to Manipur the second time, this +had been done, Colonel McCulloch being an old and intimate friend of +the Maharajah. I quoted this as a precedent. I tried in vain to get the +Foreign Department to back up my request, but could not induce them to +interfere on my behalf, so I took the responsibility on myself, and +sent a formal demand to the Maharajah to send a high officer—a +major commanding a regiment—to meet me on the road, and to meet +me himself in state at a suitable distance from the capital. The result +will be described.</p> +<p>All being ready we left Shillong, my wife, nurse and children on +men’s backs as before, for Cherra Poojee, where we arrived the +second day; thence, on the third day, we went to Thuria Ghât, on +by boat <i>viâ</i> Bholagunj, to Sylhet and Cachar. We reached +Cachar on October 17th, after passing the historical fort of +Budderpore, where a battle was fought with the Burmese in 1825, and +settled down in the bungalow of our kind friend Major Boyd who was +away. Our coolies arrived on October 18th, and we again packed our +things and prepared to depart on our final march.</p> +<p>We left Cachar for Manipur on October 20th, my wife and the nurse +and boys in “doolies,” a kind of tray four feet long by two +in width, with sides and ends eight inches in height, supported by two +long <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href="#pb62" name= +"pb62">62</a>]</span>poles running along the bottom of each side, and +slung at each end to loose bars of wood carried on men’s +shoulders. The passenger sits inside as best he can, and there is a +light matting roof thrown over to protect him from the weather. To +begin with, it is an uncomfortable and shaky conveyance, but in time +one gets accustomed to it.</p> +<p>Our baggage was carried mostly on men’s backs, each load +varying from sixty to seventy pounds in weight. Altogether we had, I +daresay, one hundred coolies, as everything we required for a ten +days’ journey had to be carried, in addition to personal baggage +and stores for our use on arrival. I had provided a tent in case of +need, but did not use it, as rude huts were provided for us at all the +stages along the road. Our first halt was at Luckipore, in British +territory, and, as usual, the first march was the most trying; for +servants, coolies, etc., have to learn each other’s ways. I had +an escort of one hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, under a +subadar, as it was expected that I might have to go on an expedition +soon after my arrival, and these men had their own special coolies, so +we were a large party altogether.</p> +<p>We halted at Luckipore, as I have said, a few miles from the Hoorung +Hills and at Jeree Ghât. Next day we left British territory and +entered Manipur, where we found some huts built for our accommodation. +At Jeree Ghât the really interesting part of the journey +commenced; thence, till Bissenpore in the valley of Manipur is reached, +the traveller marches day after day over hills and across rivers. The +first day from Jeree Ghât we crossed the Noon-jai-bang +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb63" href="#pb63" name= +"pb63">63</a>]</span>range, the summit of which is 1800 to 1900 feet +above the sea from whence a fine view of the next range, Kala Naga or +in Manipuri, Wy-nang-nong, is obtained. The road which was made under +the superintendence of Captain (afterwards Colonel) Guthrie, of the +Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844, at the joint expense of the +British and Manipuri Governments, the former paying the larger share, +was excellent for foot passengers and pack animals, but not wide enough +and too steep for wheeled traffic on a large scale.</p> +<p>After descending from Noong-jai-bang we halted on the banks of the +Mukker river amidst splendid forest, and next day ascended the Kala +Naga range and halted on the crest close to a Manipuri guard house at a +height of 3400 feet.</p> +<p>From this spot a magnificent view of the plains of Cachar is +obtained, and in fine weather, far beyond them the Kasia hills in the +neighbourhood of Cherra Poojee may be descried. The scene at sunset is +sometimes magnificent. In the foreground the dark forests, and in the +far distance a huge bank of golden clouds with their reflection in the +watery plain, and a mingled mass of colours, green fields, purple, +crimson, red and gold, all mixed up in such a way as no painter would +ever attempt to copy. As the sun sinks those colours change and +re-arrange themselves every minute in quick succession, and when at +last night closes in, the impression left on the mind is one of +never-ending wonder and admiration.</p> +<p>From Kala Naga to the Barâk river is a very stiff descent, +calculated to shake the knees of an inexperienced hill-walker, and many +is the toe-nail lost <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64" href="#pb64" +name="pb64">64</a>]</span>by the pressure of one’s boots. Here as +at the Mukker and other rivers farther on, the Barâk is crossed +by cane suspension bridges, which vibrate and move at every step. In +the dry season these rivers are crossed by very cleverly constructed +bamboo pontoon bridges, but when the rainy season has commenced, they +become raging torrents, which nothing but a fish could live in, and but +for the suspension bridges, all communication with the outer world +would be cut off. The bridge over the Eerung river was one hundred +yards in length, and like all the others, was, when I first went to +Manipur, constructed entirely of cane and bamboo, and could by great +exertions, be finished in three days. During my period of office, wire +ropes were substituted for the two main cables on which all rested, and +the strength of the bridges greatly increased thereby. It was an +important part of my duty to see that both roads and bridges were kept +in order.</p> +<p>Our march was interesting but uneventful. We started after breakfast +and generally reached our halting place in time for a late luncheon or +afternoon tea. Wherever we halted we had a hut to live in, generally in +some picturesque spot, one day giving a splendid view of hill and +valley with nothing but forests in view, on another we were perched on +a hill overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, a sheet of +cultivation. At last, on the ninth day after crossing the Lai-metol +river, and ascending the Lai-metol, we had our first view of the valley +of Manipur<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1289src" href="#xd20e1289" name= +"xd20e1289src">1</a> spread out like a huge map at our feet. Seen as it +was by us at the end of the rainy season, and from a <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65" name="pb65">65</a>]</span>height +of 2600 feet above it, is a vast expanse of flat land bordered by +hills, and mostly covered with water, through which the rice crops are +vigorously growing. To the south the Logtak lake is visible, with +several island hills in it, while far away to the north-east might be +seen the glittering roofs of the temples of Imphal, the capital. It +requires time to take in the view and to appreciate it. In the dry +season it looks very different with brown, dried-up hills in the place +of green.</p> +<p>The valley of Manipur possesses a few sacred groves, left, according +to the universal aboriginal custom, throughout all parts of India that +I have visited, for the wood spirits, when the land was first cleared; +but no natural forest. These groves are little isolated patches of +forest dotted here and there; the villages have plenty of planted +trees, many of great antiquity, and from the heights above they have +the appearance of woodland covered with grass. Besides this, all is one +sheet of cultivation or waste covered with grass. It was once entirely +cultivated, that is, before the Burmese invasion of 1819, when the +population of the valley, was from 500 to 1000 per square mile.</p> +<p>We halted to rest on the summit of the Lai-metol, and then +descended, passing sometimes under a kind of wild apple tree with very +eatable fruit, and once through a lovely grove of oak trees, called +“Oui-ong-Moklung,” and then, still far below us, saw some +elephants sent for us by the Maharajah. These elephants were posted at +Sebok Tannah,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1300src" href="#xd20e1300" +name="xd20e1300src">2</a> a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb66" href= +"#pb66" name="pb66">66</a>]</span>police station where the ground +begins to grow level, and a mile farther brought us to Bissenpore, +where there was a rude rest house. Here we halted for the night.</p> +<p>I have mentioned my demand that I should be met with proper +ceremony. It was of course stoutly resisted, every argument founded on +old custom, etc., being used against it. However, I stood firm, and +absolutely refused to go beyond Bissenpore, till the Maharajah gave me +an assurance that he would do all I required. In the end he gave in, +and a day before reaching that place, his uncle met me on the road with +a letter saying that all should be done as I wished. This official, by +name Samoo Major, became a great friend of mine, and remained so till I +finally left; he is, alas, I believe, now a prisoner in the Andamans, +having been supposed to be implicated in the rising in 1891.</p> +<p>The next day we left Bissenpore in good time, and marched the +seventeen miles to the capital, halting half-way at Phoiching, where I +was met by some officials. Farther on, some of still higher rank came +to greet me, and finally, at the entrance to the capital, I was met by +the Maharajah himself, surrounded by all his sons. A carpet was spread +with chairs for him and myself, we both of us having descended from our +elephants, advanced and met in the centre of the carpet, and having +made our salutations (a salute of eleven guns was fired in my honour), +we sat and talked for two minutes. We then mounted, the +Maharajah’s elephant being driven by his third son, the master of +the elephants; and we rode together through the great bazaar, till our +roads diverged at <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67" +name="pb67">67</a>]</span>the entrance to the fortified enclosure to +the palace, where we took leave of each other, and he went home, and I +went to the Residency, which I reached at four o’clock, my wife +and children having made a short cut.</p> +<p>The Residency then was a low and dark bungalow built of wattle and +daub, and thatched. It had one large room in the centre, and a bedroom +on either side with a small semicircular room in front and rear of the +centre room; there was one bathroom (I speedily added more), and +verandahs nearly all round. There were venetians to the windows, but no +glass, and the house was very dark and very full of mosquitoes. +However, all had been done by the Residency establishment to make the +place comfortable, and we were too old travellers and too accustomed to +rough it, to grumble. The house might be rude and uncomfortable, but +some of my happiest days were spent in it. The building was at the end +of a garden, with some nice mango, and other trees here and there, and +had a little more ground attached to it, but we were on all sides +surrounded by squalid villages and filthy tanks and cesspools, and the +situation was very low, though well drained. Our English nurse grumbled +incessantly, but we had engaged in advance, a nice pleasant Naga woman, +named Chowkee, to help her, and soon made everything right for the +night, but the mosquitoes were terrible, and though my life has been +spent in countries swarming with them, I give Manipur the palm, it +beats all others!</p> +<p>No European lady or children of pure blood had ever before been seen +in Manipur, and at first there <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb68" +href="#pb68" name="pb68">68</a>]</span>was great excitement wherever we +went, all the population turning out to look at us. By degrees they +became accustomed to the novelty, but still occasionally people from +distant villages coming to the capital stopped to stare. Every now and +then my wife had visits from strange old ladies, often from the Kola +Ranee, the widow of the last Rajah of Assam, and by birth a Manipuri +princess, daughter of Rajah Chomjeet, and first cousin of the Maharajah +Chandra Kirtee Singh. Once an old woman of 106 years of age, with a +daughter of 76, were visitors, and once or twice some other relic of a +bygone age called on us. Among the latter was old Ram Singh, the last +survivor of Wilcox’s famous survey expeditions in Assam, in +1825–26–27–28. Wilcox was one of the giants of old, +men who with limited resources, did a vast amount of work among wild +people, and said little about it, being contented with doing their +duty. In 1828, accompanied by Lieutenant Burton, and ten men belonging +to the Sudya Khamptis (Shans), he penetrated to the Bor Khamptis +country, far beyond our borders, an exploit not repeated till after our +annexation of Upper Burmah. Ram Singh had a great respect for his +former leader, and loved to talk of old days. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href="#pb69" name="pb69">69</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1289" href="#xd20e1289src" name="xd20e1289">1</a></span> The name +means beautiful garden.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1300" href="#xd20e1300src" name="xd20e1300">2</a></span> Tannah +means outpost.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch8" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter VIII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Visit to the Maharajah—His minister—Former +revolutions—Thangal Major.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">After a day’s rest I paid a visit to the +Maharajah, having first stipulated as to my proper reception. I was +received by the Jubraj (heir apparent) at the entrance to the private +part of the palace, and by the Maharajah a few paces from the entrance +to the Durbar room (hall of reception), and conducted by him to a seat +opposite to his own, with a table between us, his sons and officials +being seated on either side. I read the Viceroy’s letter, +informing the Maharajah of my appointment, and, after a short +conversation, during which my age was asked (a question invariably put +to European officers by Manipuris of rank), I took my leave, and was +escorted back to the place where I was met on my arrival. I was +favourably impressed by what I saw, but I at once realised that I was +on no bed of roses, and that I would have to make a good fight to +obtain and maintain my just influence with the Durbar. The Maharajah +had undoubtedly grievances against us, and I felt that it was folly and +injustice not to acknowledge these. At the same time, he and his +ministers had on some occasions taken advantage of this state of +affairs to behave in an <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb70" href= +"#pb70" name="pb70">70</a>]</span>unseemly way, and for this a sharp +rebuke had to be administered. The natural sense of injustice is strong +in mankind, and I saw that chafing under slights they had received, and +often magnifying them, it was necessary for me first to acknowledge +these, and try as far as possible to make amends, and then to come down +on them very sharply for having forgotten their position.</p> +<p>The Maharajah returned my visit, and we had one or two interviews +when we discussed affairs. I pointed out the extreme gravity of +resisting the British Government in any way, and we soon became very +friendly. Colonel McCulloch’s introduction had been a great +advantage to me, and every one was inclined to give me credit for good +intentions, at the same time that every effort was made to restrict my +authority and influence.</p> +<p>The Maharajah was a rather thick-set man of about five feet five +inches in height and forty-five years of age. In India he would have +been called fair. He had the features of the Indo-Chinese race, and the +impassive face that generally goes with them, but which is often not so +marked in the Manipuris. He was far the ablest man in his dominions, +and a strong and capable ruler. He had a great taste for mechanical +arts of all kinds, and a vast fund of information which he had acquired +by questioning, for he questioned every one he met. English scientific +works were explained to him, and his researches extended even to the +anatomy of the human body, of which he had a very fair knowledge. He +had a taste for European articles, and owned a large assortment. He had +glass manufactured in his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href= +"#pb71" name="pb71">71</a>]</span>workshops, and once sent me a +petroleum lamp, every portion of which was made by his own artificers. +His rule, for such a strong man, was mild as compared with that of his +predecessors, and he thoroughly realised that his prosperity depended +on his loyalty to the British Government. At the same time, he was most +tenacious of his rights, and earnestly desired to preserve his country +intact, and to give us no excuse for annexing it.</p> +<p>The fear of tempting us to annex was so great that, once when I +thought of growing a little tea for my own consumption, he was much +agitated. I, as a matter of courtesy, first sent to ask him if he had +any objection to my growing a little, and, in reply, he sent an +official to beg me not to think of it. This man said, “The +Maharajah will supply you with all the tea you want free of cost, but +begs you not to think of growing it.” The officer went on to +explain, that it was feared that, if I successfully demonstrated that +tea could be grown in Manipur tea planters would come up, and there +would be a cry for annexation! Certainly our annexation of the Muttuk +country in 1840 justified the suspicion, and we cannot blame people for +having long memories.</p> +<p>The Jubraj, or heir apparent, was an amiable young man of twenty-six +or twenty-seven, with a pleasant smile which was wanting in his father. +He was of a weak character, although possessing some ability. Like his +father, he could speak Hindoostani, but both were ignorant of English. +Backed up and influenced by an honest and capable Political Agent, he +would probably have made an excellent <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb72" href="#pb72" name="pb72">72</a>]</span>ruler, and, had we done +our duty by him, he might now be at the head of a flourishing little +state, instead of having died an exile in Calcutta.</p> +<p>The next son, Wankai Rakpar, afterwards known as the +“Regent” during the recent troubles, was an ignorant, +uncouth boor, who knew no language but his own, and was quite unfitted +for any responsible work; he took little part in public affairs. The +third known as Samoo Henjaba (Master of the Elephants), was a clever, +pleasant, sensible young man, said by Thangal Major, no mean judge of +character, to be the ablest of the ten sons of the Maharajah. He died +during my tenure of office.</p> +<p>The fourth son, Kotwal Koireng, who afterwards acquired an infamous +reputation as the “Senaputtee,” was always a bad character, +cruel, coarse, and low minded. From early childhood he was given to +foul language, and was absolutely dangerous when he grew up. His mother +had been unfaithful to the Maharajah, who used to say that the son was +worthy of her. Colonel McCulloch had always disliked him as a boy.</p> +<p>None of the other six sons of the Maharajah were in my time mixed up +in public affairs, so I need not describe them, except that Pucca Senna +was the champion polo player, though not otherwise worthy of notice. +The practical ministers were Bularam Singh, or Sawai Jamba Major, and +Thangal Major. They were both faithful adherents of the Maharajah, +although the first who had once had much influence had married the +daughter of the former Rajah Nur Sing. He was nominally the first in +rank, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" href="#pb73" name= +"pb73">73</a>]</span>Thangal Major was rapidly gaining ground, and +viewed with increasing favour by the Maharajah.</p> +<p>I quote the following description of the Government of Manipur from +an article I wrote for <i>The Nineteenth Century</i>, by kind +permission of the editor. “The government of Manipur has always +been a pure despotism tempered by assassination and revolution. While +he occupies the throne the rajah is perfectly absolute. A minister may +be all powerful, and all the princes and people may tremble before him; +for years he may practically rule the rajah; but he is after all a +cipher before his sovereign, a single word from whom may send him into +exile, make him an outcast, or reduce him to the lowest rank. Yet with +all this power an obscure man may suddenly spring up, as if from the +ground, to assert himself to be of the blood royal, and gathering a +large party round him place himself on the throne. All this happened +not unfrequently in days gone by, when many were the rajahs murdered or +deposed. History tells us of rajahs being deposed, re-elected, and +deposed again.”</p> +<p>There can be no doubt that in old days the people benefited by the +system of constant revolutions, as a rajah was obliged to keep in touch +with his subjects if he wished to occupy the throne for any length of +time, and many concessions were made to gain a strong following. The +average intelligence of the Manipuris being higher than that found +among the cultivators of many other native states, the people knew what +reforms to ask for, and often insisted on their being granted.</p> +<p>Nothing can be harder on the people of a native <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href="#pb74" name="pb74">74</a>]</span>state, +than for the paramount power to hold a ruler on the throne with a firm +grasp, and protect him against internal revolution, and at the same +time to refrain from insisting on needful reform.</p> +<p>Chandra Kirtee Singh’s long reign and strong government, were +in many ways a great benefit to the people, because he was a man of +sound sense, and though selfish and unscrupulous, naturally of a kindly +disposition, a fact proved by the few executions that took place in his +reign. In his earlier years he had the benefit of Colonel +McCulloch’s good advice, enforced by his great influence. All the +same there can be no doubt that a little more interference judiciously +applied, would have vastly improved the state of affairs during the +time he occupied the throne. Of course an individual Political Agent +might bring about improvements in the administration, but these all +rested on his personal influence and lasted only while he remained. Had +the Government of India stepped in and exerted its authority they would +have been permanent.</p> +<p>Bularam Singh was a typical Manipuri in face and had good manners, +but he had no force of character, and gradually yielded to his more +able colleague. He was generally known as the Toolee-Hel major, +<i>i.e.</i>, the major or commander of the Hel regiment.</p> +<p>Thangal Major was a remarkable character, and had a chequered +history. His uncle had saved the life of Rajah Ghumbeer Singh (Chandra +Kirtee Singh’s father), then a child, when his older brother +Marjeet attempted the murder of all his relations. Thangal Major was +one of the props of the throne <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75" +href="#pb75" name="pb75">75</a>]</span>when Ghumbeer Singh ascended it. +He had been introduced at Court at an early age, and accompanied the +Rajah in an expedition against the village of Thangal inhabited by a +tribe of Nagas. He was given the name Thangal in memory of the event. +He accompanied the old Ranee with her infant son Chandra Kirtee Singh +into exile, when she fled after attempting the Regent Nursing’s +life while he was engaged in worship in the temple of Govindjee in +1844; had stayed with him and carefully watched over his childhood and +youth. When in 1850 the young Rajah came to Manipur to assert his +rights, Thangal accompanied him and greatly contributed to his success. +This naturally made him a favourite, and his bold, active, energetic +character always brought him to the front when hard or dangerous work +had to be done. For a time he fell into disfavour, but Colonel +McCulloch, recognising his strong and useful qualities, and the fact +that he was an exceedingly able man, interceded for him with the +Maharajah, and he again came to the front. In person he was short and +thickset, darker than the average of Manipuris, with piercing eyes and +rather a prominent nose, a pleasant and straightforward but abrupt +manner, and, though a very devoted and patriotic Manipuri, was +extremely partial to Europeans. He knew our ways well, and soon took a +man’s measure. He was acquainted with every part of Manipur, and, +though ignorant of English, could point out any village in the state, +on an English map. In fact, he had studied geography in every branch to +enable him to defend the cause of Manipur against the survey officers +who were suspected by <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href="#pb76" +name="pb76">76</a>]</span>the Manipuris of wishing to include all they +could within British territory. He knew all our technical terms such as +“watershed” in English, and had gained much credit for +enabling the survey to carry on their work in 1872, when the patriotic +but ill-judged zeal of an older officer, Rooma Singh, nearly brought +about a rupture. Thangal Major’s knowledge of us and our customs, +as well as of our moral code, was astonishing. He realised the power of +the British Government, and though he would resist us to the utmost in +the interests of Manipur, nothing would have induced him to join in any +plot against our rule in India. When I say that he was unscrupulous and +capable of anything, I only say that he was what circumstances and +education had made him, and would make any man under similar +conditions. He had not the polish of a native of Western India, and had +not had the advantage of English training that many ministers in other +states have. The internal administration of Manipur had never been +interfered with by us, and Thangal Major was the strong able man of the +old type. A strong and capable political agent might do well with him, +but a weak one would soon go to the wall. He commanded the Toolee +Nehah, and was often called by that title, but was better known as +Thangal Major.</p> +<p>One of my predecessors had quarrelled with Thangal Major, and this +had led to recrimination, and very unseemly conduct on the part of the +Durbar. This conduct I had rebuked as directed, but it was a question +as to how Thangal Major was to be dealt with. I was authorised to +demand his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href="#pb77" name= +"pb77">77</a>]</span>dismissal from office, and for some time he had +not been received by my two immediate predecessors. I made careful +inquiries, and feeling convinced that there was a good deal to be said +on Thangal’s side, and that by careful management I should be +able to keep him well in hand, I sent for him. The old man, he was then +sixty, having been born in 1817, came in a quiet unostentatious way, +and after a severe rebuke, and receiving an ample apology from him, I +forgave him, and restored him to the position of minister in attendance +upon me; and thenceforth I saw him daily, generally for an hour or +two.</p> +<p>In addition to the Minister, two Subadars, Lowremba and Moirang, +were placed in attendance on me, but as time went on, and I and the +Durbar became friends, we transacted business in a friendly way, +through any one. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href="#pb78" name= +"pb78">78</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch9" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter IX.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Manipur—Early history—Our connection with +it—Ghumbeer Singh—Burmese war.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Manipur consists of about 8000 square miles, chiefly +hills surrounding a valley 650 square miles in extent. This valley from +north to south is about 35 miles, and from east to west 25. The capital +Imphal, as it formerly existed, was a large mass of villages looking +like a forest from the neighbouring heights, and covering about 15 +square miles. Every house was in the centre of its own well-planted +garden, and every garden contained a few forest trees. The census of +1881 gave the population of the capital as 60,000, that of the rest of +the valley an equal number, while the hills were estimated to have +100,000. It was only in the capital that pure Manipuris lived, except +the soldiers in the military posts which were scattered all over the +country.</p> +<p>The valley itself is 2600 feet above the sea, and the hills rise on +an average to an equal height above it, though here and there some of +the distant peaks are 10,000 to 12,000 feet in height. Thus Manipur +contains within its borders a variety of climate from almost tropical, +to a greater cold than that of England. The heat is never very +excessive in the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb79" href="#pb79" name= +"pb79">79</a>]</span>valley, and for eight months in the year it is +most enjoyable. Foreigners suffer much from bronchial affections, +doubtless owing to the waterlogged soil, but these complaints are not +more prevalent among the native population than elsewhere, and if +sanitary laws were properly observed, the valley might be a most +healthy place and the population would rapidly overflow.</p> +<p>The capital is almost intersected by the 25th parallel north +latitude, and 95° east longitude, and is 132 miles by road from +Silchar, the capital of Cachar, and 70 from Tamu in the Kubo valley. +The valley of Manipur forms the centre of a chain of valleys, viz., +Cachar, Manipur, and Kubo, connecting Bengal with Burmah proper. The +sides of the hills facing the valley of Manipur are generally covered +with grass or scant jungle which rapidly dries up as the cold season +advances, but when once the crest is passed, a fine forest is reached; +except where the hill-tribes have destroyed it, to raise one crop and +then let it relapse into grass and scrub. Alas, I have seen noble oak +forests laid low and burned for this purpose. It is an abominable +custom, and nothing can justify our permitting it where we hold sway. +That it is not necessary is shown by the Angamis and some of the +Tankhool tribes, who though they do occasionally indulge in this +wasteful cultivation are quite independent of it, as they terrace their +hillsides and cultivate the same tract for generations. The forests of +Manipur are plentifully supplied with fine timber trees; several +varieties of oak and chestnut exist, and many others unknown in England +such as Woo-Ningtho, an excellent timber said to resist <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb80" href="#pb80" name="pb80">80</a>]</span>the +ravages of white ants; wang, which can be worked in its green state as +it never warps; teak, etc. Fir trees are found in abundance to the +south, east, and north-east of the valley, and bamboos of many kinds, +including the giant, are plentiful.</p> +<p>Rhododendrons and wild azaleas of several kinds, as well as many +species of brilliant orchids, add greatly to the beauty of the forests, +and in some parts tree ferns are abundant. I know nothing more lovely +in the world, than some of the forest scenery of Manipur with its +solemn stillness.</p> +<p>The early history of Manipur is lost in obscurity, but there can be +no doubt that it has existed as an independent kingdom from a very +early period. In the days when the Indian branch of the Aryan race was +still in its progressive and colonising stage, this district was +repeatedly passed over by one wave after another of invaders, intent on +penetrating into the remotest parts of Burmah. We have no means of +ascertaining what government it had before the year 700 <span class= +"sc">A.D.</span>, but it is believed that a monarchy prevailed at that +era. About the year 1250 <span class="sc">A.D.</span>, a large Chinese +force invaded the country, and was signally defeated; all who were not +killed being made prisoners. These taught the Manipuris silk culture, +and a number of them were settled at Susa Rameng in the valley, where +they have still descendants. The Chinese also taught the art of +brick-making, and erected two solid blocks of masonry in the palace, +between which the road to the Lion Gate passed. These blocks were +levelled with the ground by the Burmese invaders, but rebuilt on the +old foundations by Ghumbeer Singh. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81" +href="#pb81" name="pb81">81</a>]</span></p> +<p>Manipur in old days possessed a famous breed of ponies, larger and +better bred <span class="corr" id="xd20e1411" title= +"Source: that">than</span> the so-called Burmese ponies that come from +the Shan states. On these ponies were mounted the formidable cavalry +that in the last century made Manipur feared throughout Upper Burmah, +and enabled her rulers on more than one occasion, to carry their +victorious arms within sight of Ava, where their Rajah Pamheiba erected +a stone pillar to commemorate the event. The cavalry used the regular +Manipuri saddle protecting the legs, and were armed with spears and two +quivers of darts. These darts in a retreat were grasped by a loop and +swung round in a peculiar way, when the shaft formed of peacock +feathers with an iron head suddenly became detached, and flying with +great force inflicted a fatal wound wherever it struck. A skilful man +could throw them with great precision.</p> +<p>The territories of Manipur varied according to the mettle of its +rulers. Sometimes they held a considerable territory east of the +Chindwin river in subjection, at other times only the Kubo valley, a +strip of territory, inhabited, not by Burmese, but by Shans, and lying +between Manipur proper and the Chindwin. Again they were driven back +into Manipur proper. For the greater part of the last century, the Kubo +valley unquestionably belonged to Manipur, and it was never in any +sense a Burmese province, being, when not under Manipur, a feudatory of +the great Shan kingdom of Pong.</p> +<p>In the middle of the last century one of those extraordinary men who +appear from time to time in the East, destined to shine like a blazing +meteor, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href="#pb82" name= +"pb82">82</a>]</span>imparting exceeding brilliancy to their country, +and then as suddenly vanishing, so that it returns to its original +obscurity, appeared in Burmah. His name, Along Pra, has been corrupted +by us into Alompra, by which he is always known. He speedily raised +Burmah to a commanding position. The kingdom of Pong was overthrown and +its territories mostly annexed, Pegu was conquered, our district of +Chittagong threatened, and Siam forced to relinquish several coveted +possessions. The war fever did not die with Alompra, and in 1817 and +1819 Assam and Manipur were respectively invaded, internal dissensions +having bred traitors, who, in both countries, made the path of the +invaders easy. But the master spirit was gone, and when we appeared +upon the scene, they could make no efficient stand. Had we then marched +to Ava, the Burmese Empire would have collapsed like a house of cards, +and the events of 1885 been anticipated by sixty years. As it was, we +did not realise our strength and the Burmese weakness, and contented +ourselves with annexing Assam and Cachar and protecting Manipur.</p> +<p>It is not very evident what the religion of Manipur was in early +days, but we see no trace of Buddhism. Probably, whatever the belief in +early years when the people may have been affected by the intermittent +stream of Aryans passing through, for many centuries no religious rites +were used before the recent rise of Hindooism, further than to appease +evil spirits, as is the custom of the surrounding tribes. There can be +little doubt that some time or other the Naga tribes to the north made +one of their chiefs Rajah of Manipur, and that his family, while, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83" name= +"pb83">83</a>]</span>like the Manchus in China and other conquerors, +adopting the civilisation of the country, retained some of their old +customs. This is shown in the curious practice at the installation of a +Rajah, when he and the Ranee appear in Naga costume; also that he +always has in his palace a house built like a Naga’s, and +wherever he goes he is attended by two or three Manipuris with Naga +arms and accoutrements. I once told a Manipuri what I thought on the +subject, and he was greatly struck by it, and admitted the force of +what I said.</p> +<p>Towards the middle of the last century, for some reason or other, a +great Hindoo revival took place in the East of India. Assam was once +Hindoo but had long become Buddhist under its Ahom kings, and now +became converted to Hindooism, by Brahmins from Bengal. All +difficulties were smoothed over, and converts were made by tens of +thousands. It is to be regretted that it was so, as these +“converts” quickly deteriorated. The easy conquest of +Hindooised Assam by the Burmese, when Buddhist Assam had successfully +resisted a powerful army sent by Arungzebe from India and composed +largely of recruits from Central Asia, seems proof of it, if all other +evidence were wanting.</p> +<p>The process of conversion in Manipur began a generation later than +in Assam, and proceeded on somewhat different lines, but it was not +less effective, and was still going on at a late date. It had not the +same deteriorating effect, for the Rajahs assumed to themselves a +position greater than that of High Pontiff, and could at any time by +their simple fiat have changed the religion of the country and degraded +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84" name= +"pb84">84</a>]</span>all the Brahmins, in fact all admissions to the +Hindoo pale from the outer world of unorthodoxy were made by the Rajah +himself. Sometimes the inhabitants of a village were elevated <i>en +masse</i> from the level of outcasts, to that of Hindoos of pure caste, +but more often single individuals were “converted.” A man +belonging to a hill-tribe, for instance, could, if the Rajah chose, at +any time receive the sacred thread of the twice-born castes, and on +payment of a small sum of money be admitted as a Hindoo and was +thenceforth called a Khetree.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1434src" href= +"#xd20e1434" name="xd20e1434src">1</a> This privilege was not accorded +to Mussulmans. I once asked a Manipuri why they received hill-men and +not Mussulmans, both being Mlechas,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1437src" +href="#xd20e1437" name="xd20e1437src">2</a> according to Hindoo theory. +He said it was because the hill people had sinned in ignorance, whereas +Mussulmans knew the evil of their ways.</p> +<p>Of course, every one who knows anything of Hindooism is aware that +theoretically a man must be born a Hindoo, and that proselytism is not +admitted. Practically, however, this rule is ignored on the eastern +frontier, and all along it from Sudya down to Chittagong, where +conversions are daily taking place. I remember villages in Assam where +caste was unknown thirty-five years ago, but where now the people live +in the odour of sanctity as highly orthodox and bigoted Hindoos. +Strange to say, the pure Hindoos of the North-West Provinces +acknowledge the pretensions of these spurious converts sufficiently so +as to allow of their drinking water brought by them. It is probably +easier to take the people at their own valuation than to carry water +one’s self from a distance when tired. By the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb85" href="#pb85" name= +"pb85">85</a>]</span>religious law of the Hindoos, it is forbidden to +eat or drink anything touched by one of another tribe.</p> +<p>Our first relations with Manipur date from 1762, when Governor +Verelst of the Bengal Presidency—with that splendid self-reliance +and large-mindedness characteristic of the makers of the British Indian +Empire, men who acted instead of talking, and were always ready to +extend our responsibilities when advisable—entered into a treaty +with the Rajah of Manipur. As this treaty came to nothing, practically +our connection with the little state really dates from 1823. It had +been invaded by the Burmese in 1819, and its people driven out or +carried off into slavery in Burmah. The royal family were +fugitives.</p> +<p>At that time Sylhet was our frontier station, and our relations with +the Burmese, who were at the highest pitch of their power, were daily +becoming more strained. On our side of the frontier we were ably +represented by Mr. David Scott, agent to the Governor-General, and +preparations were being made for the inevitable struggle. One day a +young Manipuri prince waited on Mr. Scott and asked leave to raise a +Manipuri force to fight on our side. He was short and slight, and of +indomitable courage and energy, and the agent to the Governor-General +recognising his ability, allowed him to raise 500 men. These were soon +increased to 2000, cavalry, infantry and artillery. Two English +officers, Captain F. Grant and Lieutenant R. B. Pemberton, were +attached to the force, thenceforth called the Manipur Levy, to drill +and discipline it.</p> +<p>In 1825 a general advance was made all along our line, Cachar was +invaded and subdued, and we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href= +"#pb86" name="pb86">86</a>]</span>essayed to pursue the enemy into +Manipur and thence into Burmah, but our transport arrangements failed. +Hitherto we had been accustomed to wars in the arid plains of India, +and our military authorities did not realise the necessities of an +expedition into the eastern jungles. Hence, camels and bullocks were +sent to dislocate their limbs in the tenacious mud and swamps of +Cachar, and when the advance into Manipur was desired, our regular +troops were powerless. At this crisis the Manipur Levy showed its +immense value. The men could move lightly equipped without the +paraphernalia of a regular army, and advance they did, and with such +effect that in a short time not only was Manipur cleared, but the enemy +driven out of the Kubo valley. Later on, Ghumbeer Singh was recognised +as Rajah of Manipur, and the Kubo valley was included within his +territories.</p> +<p>Manipur at this time contained only 2000 inhabitants, the miserable +remnants of a thriving population of at least 400,000, possibly +600,000, that existed before the invasion. Ghumbeer Singh’s task +was to encourage exiles to return, and to attempt to rebuild the +prosperity of his little kingdom. He was a wise and strong though +severe ruler, and though he owed his throne greatly to his own efforts, +he to the last retained the deepest feelings of loyalty and gratitude +to the British Government, promptly obeying all its orders and doing +his utmost to impress the same feeling on all his officers.</p> +<p>As is always the case, though we had carried all before us in the +war, we began to display great weakness afterwards. We had an agent, +Colonel Burney, at Ava, and the Burmese who were not <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href="#pb87" name="pb87">87</a>]</span>disposed +to be at all friendly, constantly tried to impress on him the fact that +all difficulties and disputes would be at an end if we ceded the Kubo +valley to them, that territory belonging to our ally Ghumbeer Singh of +Manipur. Of course the proposal ought to have been rejected with scorn, +and a severe snub given to the Burmese officials. The advisers of the +Government of India, however, being generally officers brought up in +the Secretariat, and with little practical knowledge of Asiatics, the +manly course was not followed. It was not realised that a display of +self-confidence and strength is the best diplomacy with people like the +Burmese, and with a view to winning their good-will we basely consented +to deprive our gallant and loyal ally of part of his territories. An +attempt was made to negotiate with him, but Major Grant said, “It +is no use bargaining with Ghumbeer Singh,” and refused to take +any part in it. He was asked what compensation should be given, and he +said 6000 sicca rupees per annum.</p> +<p>When Ghumbeer Singh heard the final decision he quietly accepted it, +saying, “You gave it me and you can take it away. I accept your +decree.” The proposed transfer was very distasteful to many of +the inhabitants, including the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) Tsawbwa,<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e1462src" href="#xd20e1462" name="xd20e1462src">3</a> +but they were not consulted. The Kubo valley was handed over to the +Burmese on the 9th of January, 1834, and on that day Ghumbeer Singh +died in Manipur of cholera. Perhaps he was happy in the hour of his +death, as he felt the treatment of our Government most severely. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb88" href="#pb88" name= +"pb88">88</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1434" href="#xd20e1434src" name="xd20e1434">1</a></span> Probably +a corruption of Khatyra.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1437" href="#xd20e1437src" name="xd20e1437">2</a></span> +<i>I.e.</i> Unclean.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1462" href="#xd20e1462src" name="xd20e1462">3</a></span> +Mentioned frequently later on. In August, 1891, he was a fugitive from +the British Government, hiding himself on the Chinese +frontier.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch10" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter X.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him—Nur +Singh and attempt on his life—McCulloch—His wisdom and +generosity—My establishment—Settlement of frontier +dispute.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Ghumbeer Singh did much for Manipur during his +comparatively short reign. He made all the roads in his territory safe, +and subdued the different hill-tribes who had asserted their +independence during the troubles with Burmah. Imphal, the old capital, +had not been re-occupied, though the sacred spot where the temple of +Govindjee stood was cared for; but a new palace had been built at +Langthabal at a distance of three and a half miles from Imphal where +several fine masonry buildings were erected, and a canal dug for the +annual boat races. Langthabal<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1476src" href= +"#xd20e1476" name="xd20e1476src">1</a> was deserted in 1844 and the old +site re-occupied, and in my time, the buildings at Langthabal were +picturesque ruins, having been greatly injured by time and the +earthquakes of 1869 and 1880. Ghumbeer Singh left an infant son, +Chandra Kirtee Singh who was two years of age at his father’s +death and a distant cousin, Nur Singh, was appointed Regent. Contrary +to all precedent, the Regent was loyal to his charge and governed well +and ably for the infant <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb89" href= +"#pb89" name="pb89">89</a>]</span>prince, in spite of constant attempts +to overthrow his government. In 1844, the Queen-Mother wishing to +govern herself, attempted to procure Nur Singh’s murder as he was +at prayers in the temple. She failed and fled with her son the young +Rajah Chandra Kirtee Singh to British territory. The Regent then +proclaimed himself Rajah with the consent of all the people. The +Manipur Levy had been maintained up till 1835 when the Government of +India withdrew their connection from it, and ceased to pay the men. +Major Grant left Manipur, and Captain Gordon, who had been adjutant +since 1827, was made Political Agent of Manipur. Captain Pemberton had +long since been on special survey duty.</p> +<p>Captain Gordon died in December 1844. He was much liked and long +remembered by the people whom he had greatly benefited, among other +ways by introducing English vegetables, and fruits. He was succeeded by +Lieutenant (afterwards Colonel) McCulloch.</p> +<p>Rajah Nur Singh died in 1850, and was succeeded by his brother +Debindro, a weak man, quite unfit for the position. In 1850, young +Chandra Kirtee Singh invaded the valley with a body of followers, +Debindro fled, and he mounted the throne without opposition. Up to this +time the Government of India had always acknowledged the <i>de +facto</i> Rajah of Manipur, and revolutions with much accompanying +bloodshed were common. Now, however, McCulloch strongly urged the +advisability of supporting Chandra Kirtee Singh, and he received +authority to “make a public avowal of the determination of the +British Government to uphold the present Rajah and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href="#pb90" name="pb90">90</a>]</span>to +resist and punish any parties attempting hereafter to dispossess +him.” The Court of Directors of the East India Company, in a +despatch dated May 5th, 1852, confirmed the order of the Government of +India and commented thus: “The position you have assumed of +pledged protector of the Rajah, imposes on you as a necessary +consequence the obligation of attempting to guide him, by your advice, +but if needful of protecting his subjects against oppression on his +part; otherwise our guarantee of his rule may be the cause of +inflicting on them a continuance of reckless tyranny.”</p> +<p>These words of justice and wisdom were steadily ignored by +successive governments. On no occasion did the Government of India ever +seriously remonstrate with the Rajah, or make a sustained effort to +improve his system of administration. The East India Company’s +order became a dead letter, but the resolution to uphold Chandra Kirtee +Singh bore good fruit, and during his long reign of thirty-five years +no successful attempt against his authority was ever made, and he on +his part displayed unswerving fidelity to the British Government.</p> +<p>I have already mentioned the great work that Colonel McCulloch +accomplished with regard to the Kukis. This added to his long +experience, gave him great influence in the State, and when he retired +from the service in 1861, it was amidst the regrets of the whole +people. Able, high-minded, respected, and having accomplished a task +few could even have attempted, he left without honour or reward from +his Government. How many men of inferior capacity, and quite without +his old-fashioned <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91" +name="pb91">91</a>]</span>single-minded devotion to duty, are nowadays +covered with stars! When he left he made every effort to hand over his +vast power and influence intact to his successor, and to smooth his way +as much as possible. Had the Government of India exercised the +slightest tact and discretion in the selection of its agent, he might +have carried on the good work so ably commenced, and brought Manipur by +rapid strides into the path of progress. As it was it would have been +difficult to find an officer more unfitted to succeed Colonel McCulloch +than the one selected; he was soon involved in difficulties, and after +a troubled period was ordered by Government to leave at three +days’ notice. For a time the agency remained vacant, but the +Rajah applied for another officer, and Colonel McCulloch was requested +by the Government to quit his retirement, and again assume charge. He +did so, and was received with acclamations by Rajah and people, the +whole State turning out to meet him. His first effort was to restore +the confidence forfeited by the late political agent, and everything +went on as smoothly as ever; but, towards the end of 1867, he finally +retired, staying on a few days after his successor’s arrival to +post him up in his work. This time it would have been thought that some +judgment would be shown in the selection of an officer for the post; +but the next political agent was eminently unfitted and for some years +before his death in 1876, was on very indifferent terms with the +Durbar.</p> +<p>During the brief period that elapsed between the last event and my +taking charge, two different officers held the post. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92" name="pb92">92</a>]</span></p> +<p>My Government establishment consisted of a head clerk, a most +excellent man, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo; a native doctor, Lachman +Parshad; native secretary and Manipuri interpreter; Burmese +interpreter; Naga interpreter; Kuki interpreter; and latterly six +chuprassies, i.e., orderlies or lictors. As for private servants we had +three Naga girls, a Mugh cook and assistant, who could turn out a +dinner equal to any of the London clubs for one hundred people at a +couple of days’ notice, and under him I had four young Nagas +learning their work, as I was determined to do more for my successors +than my predecessors had done for me, viz., teach and train up a staff +of servants so as to save the necessity of importing the scum of +Calcutta. I had an excellent bearer, Horna, as I have already stated, +and under him were two or three Nagas; <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e1503" title="Source: washerman">washermen</span>, syces, +gardeners, water-carriers, etc., made up the number. All my +interpreters, chuprassies, and servants, I clothed in scarlet livery +which made a great impression, and gradually the air of squalor which +prevailed when I arrived began to disappear. I had charge of a +Government Treasury from which I used to pay myself and the Government +establishment. The currency of the country was a small bell-metal coin +called “Sel,” of which 400 to 480 went to the rupee, also +current, but copper pice were not used, and all Manipuri accounts were +kept in “Sel.”</p> +<p>At this time the Naga Hills were still under a political officer +whose actual jurisdiction was limited to the villages which had paid +tribute to me, as already described. He was supposed to exercise a +certain influence over many of the large villages, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb93" href="#pb93" name="pb93">93</a>]</span>but the +influence was lessened by the feeling entertained by the Nagas that our +stay in the hills was uncertain, and that for all practical purposes +the Manipuris were the power most to be reckoned with, and from our +point of view it was very desirable that our headquarter station should +be removed to Kohima. A dispute with Mozuma, due chiefly to our +vacillating conduct, was now going on, but its chiefs would not accept +our terms, and an expedition to coerce them was in preparation in which +I was to take part. Mr. Carnegy was political officer, a man of ability +and determination, and very pleasant to deal with. During the dispute +with Mozuma, the other villages held aloof, thinking Mozuma was able to +hold its own, and waiting to see which side gained the day.</p> +<p>Burmah was still under its native rulers. There were constant +frontier disputes going on between it and Manipur, but that state of +things was chronic.</p> +<p>To the south of Manipur, the Chin and Lushai tribes were quiet.</p> +<p>There was a long standing boundary dispute between Manipur and the +Naga Hills. The boundary had been most arbitrarily settled by us when +the survey was carried out, so far as a certain point, beyond that it +was vague. Manipur claimed territory which we certainly did not +possess, and which she had visited from time to time, but did not +actually hold in subjection. Other portions, as I afterwards proved, +were occupied by her, though the fact had not been ascertained. Over +and over again efforts had been made to bring the Durbar to terms, but +without success. I determined to grapple with <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb94" href="#pb94" name="pb94">94</a>]</span>the +question at once. I took a map and drew a line including all that I +thought Manipur entitled to, in the neighbourhood of the Naga Hills, +and advised the Maharajah to accept the arrangement on the +understanding that when I visited the country claimed further eastward, +I would recommend the Government of India to allow him to retain all +that he actually held in his possession. This was agreed to by him and +confirmed by Government, and I believe that substantial justice was +done to both parties.</p> +<p>I should like to have seen Manipur get more, as a set-off against +our unjust treatment in former years, but as we were sure eventually, +to occupy all the Naga Hills, it was necessary to make such an +adjustment as would not injure British interests in the future. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb95" href="#pb95" name= +"pb95">95</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1476" href="#xd20e1476src" name="xd20e1476">1</a></span> Here a +British native regiment was stationed, after Sir J. Johnstone’s +retirement, but some time before the troubles of +1891.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch11" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XI.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">My early days in Manipur—The capital—The +inhabitants—Good qualities of Manipuris—Origin of valley of +Manipur—Expedition to the Naga Hills—Lovely +scenery—Attack on Kongal Tannah by Burmese—Return from Naga +Hills—Visit Kongal Tannah.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The first few weeks in Manipur were taken up in making +acquaintance with the place and people, and doing all that was possible +to disarm the fears of the Durbar. Never was there one so suspicious. +At first all my movements were watched, and wherever I went spies, open +or secret, followed; however, I encouraged it to the utmost, and told +the officials to inquire into everything I did, and they very soon saw +that there was no necessity for special espionage, though all my acts +were still noted and reported. Several little difficulties cropped up +regarding British subjects, and required some care in dealing with +them. In one case, a man had taken upon himself to intrigue with some +of the Nagas under Manipur, and urged them to declare themselves +British subjects, and in another, a man had robbed the Maharajah. In +both instances the Durbar had acted foolishly and precipitately, though +under much provocation. However, I turned both men out of the country, +with orders never to return.</p> +<p>The question of British subjects and their rights was one that gave +me much trouble for years. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96" href= +"#pb96" name="pb96">96</a>]</span>Judging by a decision of the High +Court of Calcutta that all the descendants of European British subjects +were European British subjects, I insisted on all descendants of +British subjects being considered as such, and subject to my +jurisdiction. After a long struggle I carried my point, and it very +greatly strengthened my position.</p> +<p>A few more words about the capital and the Manipuris may not be +amiss. Imphal, as has been said,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1536src" +href="#xd20e1536" name="xd20e1536src">1</a> covered a space of fifteen +square miles. On the north side it touches on some low hills, called +Ching-mai-roong, and running westward is bounded by a shallow lake, +which is partly enclosed by a continuation of the hills, here called +Langol, on which grows a celebrated cane used for polo sticks. Then, +running south, it is intersected by several roads, notably the road to +Silchar, which enters the capital at a place called Kooak-Kaithel +(<i>i.e.</i> crow bazaar). Here it is bounded by rice cultivation. +Going farther south, and sweeping round in an easterly direction, it is +bounded by the Plain of Lang-thabal, at one extremity of which lies the +old capital; here two rivers intersect it. And going farther east, it +is bounded by the lower slopes of a hill rising 2500 feet above the +valley. Then turning to the northward and crossing two rivers, we come +again to the place from which we started. The want of the town was a +good water-supply; there were one or two fair-sized tanks, or ponds, as +they would be called in England, and the afore-mentioned rivers, of +which the water is not improved by receiving <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb97" href="#pb97" name="pb97">97</a>]</span>the +ashes of the dead burned on their banks. Beyond this, all the water +obtainable was derived from small ponds, one or more of which was to be +found in every garden enclosure. The ground on which the capital stands +must at one time have been very low, probably a marsh, and it has been +artificially raised from time to time by digging these tanks; every +raised road, too, meant a deep stagnant ditch on either side. The +people are not sanitary in their habits, and when heavy rain falls the +gardens are flooded, and a fair share of the accumulated filth is +washed into the drinking-tanks, the result being frequent epidemics of +cholera.</p> +<p>The Manipuris themselves are a fine stalwart race descended from an +Indo-Chinese stock, with some admixture of Aryan blood, derived from +the successive waves of Aryan invaders that have passed through the +valley in prehistoric days. It may be this, or from an admixture of +Chinese blood, but certainly the Manipuris have stable and industrious +qualities which the Burmese and Shans do not possess. Since then the +race has been constantly fed by additions from the various hill-tribes +surrounding the valley. The result is a fairly homogeneous people of +great activity and energy, <span class="corr" id="xd20e1549" title= +"Source: wîth">with</span> much of the Japanese aptitude for +acquiring new arts. The men seem capable of learning anything, and the +women are famous as weavers, and in many cases have completely killed +out the manufacture of cloths formerly peculiar to certain of the +hill-tribes, over whom the Manipuris have obtained mastery by superior +intellect. They are always cheerful, even on a long and trying march, +and are good-humoured <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href="#pb98" +name="pb98">98</a>]</span>under any difficulties and never apparently +conscious of fatigue. They are very abstemious, and live chiefly on +rice and fish, which is often rotten from preference. Though rigid +Hindoos outwardly, they have a curious custom by which a man of low +caste, marrying a high-caste woman, can be adopted into her tribe, the +exact reverse of what prevails in India, where a woman of high caste +marrying a low-caste man is hopelessly degraded and her children +outcasts.</p> +<p>It is impossible for those who have marched much in the hills with +Manipuris to avoid liking them. Their caste prejudices, though rigid, +give no trouble to others. Hungry or not, they are always ready to +march, and march all day and all night, if necessary. Still, the +Indo-Chinese races exceed even the ordinary Asiatic in reserve and +sphinx-like characteristics, and the Manipuris are an inscrutable set. +I had many intimate friends among them, yet, on the whole, prefer the +pure Hindoo.</p> +<p>What is now the valley of Manipur was evidently once a series of +valleys and ranges of hills, between the higher ranges which now border +it and converge to the south. The rivers now flowing through the valley +then flowed through it like the Barak, Eerung, and others, at a much +lower level. One of the great earthquakes, to which these regions are +so subject, closed the outlet and raised a permanent barrier; thus a +lake was formed, and in the course of ages the alluvium brought down by +the streams filled it up to its present level leaving the Logtak Lake +in its lowest part, a lake which has constantly lessened and is still +lessening in size. The crests of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb99" +href="#pb99" name="pb99">99</a>]</span>the sunken ranges are still to +be seen running down the valley, and mostly parallel to the bordering +ranges, such are Langol, Langthabal, Phoiching, Lokching, and others. +Sometimes a river, as at a place called “Eeroce Semba,” +runs at the base of a hill, and cuts away the alluvium, showing the +solid rock. This alluvium forms one of the deepest and richest soils in +the world.</p> +<p>I have referred to the proposed expedition to the Naga Hills, to aid +the troops there in the operations against the powerful village of +Mozuma. In order to take part in this expedition I had brought up one +hundred men of the 35th Native Infantry, from Cachar, and I started +from Manipur on December 3rd, 1877, having sent on the 35th and a +Manipuri force of over three hundred men under the Minister +<span class="corr" id="xd20e1562" title= +"Source: Bularem">Bularam</span> Singh. I rode out the first day to +Mayang Khang, a distance of forty miles, where I caught up my men. I +passed Sengmai at a distance of thirteen miles on the border of the +valley, and up to which the road is flat, and soon entered a broken +country, first grass, then scrub, then forest. The road lay over a +succession of spurs of the Kowpree Hills which run down into a very +narrow valley, and was as bad as can be imagined—very steep +ascents and descents. At last we reached Kaithemabee, the second stage, +and fourteen miles from Sengmai. It is exceedingly picturesquely +situated, having a splendid view of the Kowpree range, here rising to +over 8000 feet. The outpost is situated on a high bank overlooking a +stream, and beyond it a splendid rolling slope of grass extending for +miles.</p> +<p>All this part of the country is covered with beehive-shaped +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100" name= +"pb100">100</a>]</span>cairns, built of well-selected stones. They are +said to have been made by the Köereng Nagas, formerly a very +powerful race, whose miserable remnants now inhabit the neighbouring +hills. Farther on the bee-hives end suddenly, and a region of monoliths +is entered. Probably both monoliths and bee-hives were erected to +commemorate great events in the lives of the builders, the death of a +chief, the birth of a son, the giving of a great feast when a bison, or +possibly many, were killed. Monoliths are common, and exist all over +the Naga Hills and among the Kolarian and Dravidian tribes, as well as +all over Europe. Cairns also are common, but the beehive-shaped cairns +are, I believe, unique, and found only in Manipur and in this +neighbourhood.</p> +<p>I reached Mayung Khang at 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, having an +hour before crossed the watershed, all the streams south of it falling +into the tributaries of the Chindwin Irrawaddy, all to the north +running into the tributaries of the Ganges and Burrhampooter.</p> +<p>Mayung Khang is a highly undulating grassy slope, the Kowpree rising +to nearly nine thousand feet in the west, while after crossing a small +stream a lower range closes it in on the east. We halted there for the +night close to a monolith, and the next day marched to Mythephum.</p> +<p>Mythephum or Muphum (<i>lit.</i> Manipuri settlement) was a small +military post, and we encamped below in a wide valley among recently +cut rice fields, with a river rushing by us. The place is so named from +having been a Manipuri settlement, in the old days before the Burmese +invasion. High hills rose above <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101" +href="#pb101" name="pb101">101</a>]</span>us on all sides, the valley +running in and out among them and following the course of the stream. +To our north, and at a distance of a mile or two, was the once powerful +village of Muram, still populous but submissive. I had a small but most +comfortable straw-built hut, and well remember how delightful the early +morning was next day, when I had breakfast at sunrise and saw my +thermometer at thirty-two degrees. Only those accustomed to great heat +realise the delights of a low thermometer. Mythephum is over 4000 feet +above the sea, and being a low valley is often extremely cold. +Sometimes in winter the stream is for a day quite choked by blocks of +ice, and I have seen the thermometer at twenty-six degrees, 150 feet +above the valley, which probably meant eighteen degrees at the lowest +level on the grass.</p> +<p>It was my intention to march on Mozuma by a track which would avoid +the powerful villages of <span class="corr" id="xd20e1586" title= +"Source: Viswena">Viswema</span>, Kohima, Jotsuma and Konoma, and +enable me to attack the enemy in the rear. Half-way I was delayed by +receiving no letter from Mr. Carnegy, with whom I had to act in +concert, and this prevented me from reaching the scene of operations, +as I received the startling news that the Manipuri outpost of Kongal +Tannah on the borders of the Kubo valley had been attacked on December +14th by a party of men sent by the Rajah of Sumjok or Thoungdoot, and +eight men killed. This threw the whole population of Manipur into a +state of commotion, and the Maharajah begged me to return at once, and +I felt it my duty to do so, as my chief work was to protect Manipur and +its interests. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb102" href="#pb102" name= +"pb102">102</a>]</span>I therefore returned to Manipur on December +17th, leaving my party on the frontier, where they remained some time +longer, the Nagas being unwilling to submit; and making overtures +instead to the Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. He sternly declined +their offers, and threatened that if they did not speedily yield to the +British authorities, he would send a large force to our aid.</p> +<p>The Naga Hills Campaign of that year had no further interest for +Manipur, and it had a sad ending for us, as Mr. Carnegy was accidently +shot by a sentry.</p> +<p>The “Kongal outrage,” as it was thenceforth called, was +so serious and so evidently premeditated, that a most thorough inquiry +was needed. It took some time to collect evidence as wounded men had to +be brought in, and it was the end of the month before I was able to +proceed to the spot. At last I started and crossed the Yoma range of +hills for the first time. What a lovely march it was and what an +anxious one, as I left my wife not at all well, and no one but an +ignorant and not very sweet-tempered English nurse to look after her. +However, duty must come first, and off I started, posting relays of +ponies on the way to enable me to return quickly when the work was +done. Thangal Major accompanied me.</p> +<p>The first part of our march lay across the valley, and we began the +ascent of the hills at a place called Ingorok. After a wearisome ascent +of 3500 feet and a more gradual one along the crest, we made a rapid +descent of 4000 feet to the Turet river, where we encamped. The river +runs at the bottom of an <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href= +"#pb103" name="pb103">103</a>]</span>exceedingly narrow valley, and the +ascent on both sides is one of the most wearisome I have ever made. On +a dark night lights on the hillside above, appear as stars from the bed +of the stream. The scenery was majestic, and the vegetation very fine. +The next day we commenced with a steep ascent of 2500 feet, and ended +with a descent of 3000 feet to the Maghung river. From the Maghung next +morning we started for Kongal Tannah, which we reached in good +time.</p> +<p>I carefully examined the place and saw the charred remains of the +murdered men, and many bullets still sticking in the stockade. The +evidence being complete, I turned homewards, and by travelling +incessantly reached Manipur next morning to find that my wife had +presented me with another son, the first pure European child born in +Manipur. It had been an anxious time for me, and I was thankful to find +both her and the baby well. We named the baby Arthur.</p> +<p>I sent a full report of the Kongal case to the Government of India, +and a demand for reparation was made at the Court of Mandalay, but it +was not backed up with sufficient vigour. The outrage was unprovoked, +and nothing less than the execution of the ringleaders, who were well +known, would have satisfied Manipur, and, indeed, the claims of +justice, but though the case dragged on for years, no redress was ever +given. I predicted at the time that failure to do justice would +eventually lead to underhand reprisals on the part of Manipur, as the +Durbar could not understand our Government tolerating an attack of this +kind on a protected state, and naturally ascribed our forbearance to +weakness. I shall have to refer to the case farther on. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb104" href="#pb104" name="pb104">104</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1536" href="#xd20e1536src" name="xd20e1536">1</a></span> Quoted +by kind permission of editor from my article in <i>Nineteenth +Century</i>.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch12" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Discussions as to New Residency—Its +completion—Annual boat races—<span class="corr" id= +"xd20e1611" title= +"Source: Kangjoopkool">Kang-joop-kool</span>—Daily +work—Dealings with the Durbar.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I have briefly described the old Residency which was +rented from the Heir Apparent. Money had been sanctioned for a new +Residency, to belong to the British Government, but there had been +squabbles for a long time between my predecessors and the Durbar +regarding a suitable site. Also such a building as was required could +only be built with the help of the Durbar whom it was advisable to +conciliate.</p> +<p>One of my predecessors wished to build on a small hill called +“Chinga,” about a mile from the palace. It was an admirable +site, and had the position of the Political Agent been <span class= +"corr" id="xd20e1618" title="Source: similiar">similar</span> to that +in other Indian States, it could not have been better. But in Manipur, +the representative of the Government of India was regarded by the +Maharajah as a powerful prop and support in case of his throne being +attacked, as was constantly the case in former years. On this ground +the Durbar objected that it was too far off; also that the place was +reported to be the residence of an evil spirit inimical to the Royal +family, so that it was not a convenient spot for the Maharajah to +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb105" href="#pb105" name= +"pb105">105</a>]</span>visit. So, after many acrimonious disputes, the +negotiation fell through.</p> +<p>Another Political Agent chose a site called Ching-mai-roong, which +in many ways was very satisfactory, and the Durbar reluctantly +consented to give it, but it was a mile and a half from the palace, and +therefore much out of the way. The question was still in abeyance when +I arrived. As soon as I had time, I discussed the matter with the +Durbar, and found the Maharajah much averse to my removal from the old +site. He said “Where you are now, I can call to you; but if you +go to a distance, I shall be cut off entirely.”</p> +<p>I quite saw the advisability of being on the spot, also in what I +may call the fashionable quarter of the town; and, as from a sanitary +point of view, the position was as good as any other, I agreed to stay, +on condition that all the squalid houses and slums in the neighbourhood +were cleared away, dirty tanks filled, and others deepened, and a fine +large space cleared and handed over to me. I further insisted that I +should have all the assistance necessary in building a suitable +Residency. My terms were agreed to, and the work put in hand. I +determined to have a building worthy of the representative of the +British Government, and sacrificed everything to suitable rooms, and +sound construction, so that it was not till the end of 1880 that it was +finished.</p> +<p>I was greatly indebted to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, +who acted as clerk of the works. The result was a charming residence. +It was in the half-timber style of old English houses, modified to suit +the climate, all on one floor, but raised on a solid <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href="#pb106" name= +"pb106">106</a>]</span>brick foundation, which gave a lower storey +seven feet in height, thus keeping us high and dry, the house being +approached on four sides by flights of solid masonry steps. The lower +storey was built so as to be shot proof, as I designed it as a place of +retreat from stray shot for non-combatants, in the event of the +Residency being again, as it had been before, subjected to a cross-fire +from contending parties during one of the many revolutions so common to +Manipur. Little did I dream that folly, and incompetency would ever +lead to our being directly attacked!</p> +<p>The large compound, about sixteen acres in extent, was surrounded by +a mud breastwork and ditch, quite capable of being defended, if +necessary, and there were four entrances which I named respectively, +the Great Gate, the Milking Gate, my cows’-shed being close to +it, the Water Gate and the Kang-joop-kool Gate. I made a riding road +all round to exercise ponies, and besides making a splendid kitchen +garden, adding considerably to Colonel McCulloch’s, we laid out +flower beds, and had cool shady spots for the heat of the day. Deodars +and other exotic trees were imported by me and throve wonderfully. One +large sheet of water with an island in the centre was cleared, +deepened, and the banks repaired, and as I never allowed a bird to be +killed, it was covered in winter with water-fowls to the number of four +hundred and fifty or five hundred of every kind, from wild geese +downwards, and rare birds took refuge in the trees. In the north-east +corner of the compound were the lines for my escort, with a tank of the +purest drinking water, where formerly squalor <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107" name="pb107">107</a>]</span>and +filth had held sway. Finally I covered most of the large trees with +beautiful orchids, so that in the season we had a blaze of colour. I +spared no expense on the garden, and we were rewarded. Altogether the +Residency and its grounds formed a beautiful and comfortable +resting-place.</p> +<p>The new building was also commodious and contained a handsome +Durbar-room for receptions 24 feet square, fine dining and +drawing-rooms, very airy and comfortable bedrooms, etc., with an office +for myself. The pantry was so arranged that cold draughts of air, so +great a drawback in Indian houses in cold weather, were avoided when +dinner was being brought in. The bedrooms had fireplaces, and the +sitting-rooms excellent stoves which in winter were very necessary. The +shot-proof rooms in the basement were not used, except one for a +storeroom, and the one under the verandah of the Durbar-room, used as a +sleeping place by the men of my guard.</p> +<p>The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms +on either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital, +so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature, +pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani sepoys. +Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes, being +considered too good for a hospital!</p> +<p>“With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left +Manipur, was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on +account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with +wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb108" href="#pb108" name="pb108">108</a>]</span>the +same, but on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with +the main entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north +side close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The +roofs are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah’s, which +was of corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick +stuccoed over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded +one. I sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to +the Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being +represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples had +bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah’s +dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure was +entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway, not +beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra Kirtee +Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with a +corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out of +keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and +vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque old +building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have +destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.</p> +<p>“Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is +erected, from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on +the palace moat. I say ‘view,’ as in old age, a Rajah sits +there all the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these +races, steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally +take place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event +of the year. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109" name= +"pb109">109</a>]</span>Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and +other female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in +Manipur there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the +road is thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress +peculiar to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting. +The boats are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are +decorated with colour and carving.”<a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1648src" href="#xd20e1648" name="xd20e1648src">1</a></p> +<p>The valley of Manipur is hot and steamy in the rainy season, and +Colonel McCulloch built a small hut at a place called Kang-joop-kool, +situated on a spur of the Kowpree range, to the west of the valley at a +height of 5170 feet above the sea. The distance from the capital was +fourteen miles, and four from the foot of the hills, and he lived there +for the whole of the rainy season, except for a few visits to the +capital. His successors till my time did not stay there much, but I +bought a small hut from my immediate predecessor, and pulled it down, +and built a new one far more commodious. I enclosed the land, and laid +out a small garden, and planted a wood of Khasia pines, the land being +quite bare, and in time it became a most charming place. It was +pleasant to leave the ceremonial life at the capital, where I never +walked out without a train of followers clad in scarlet liveries, and +settle down quietly at Kang-joop-kool where we could roam about the +hills as if we had been in England.</p> +<p>I spent little or no time in sporting, my eyes were never very good, +and before I came to Manipur had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110" +href="#pb110" name="pb110">110</a>]</span>become so deficient in what +oculists call power of “accommodation,” that, though +formerly a fairly good shot, I was then a bad one. In one way this was +an advantage, as all my interests were concentrated on my work, and +nothing of greater interest could have been found. Somehow or other, +there was subject for conversation with State officials and +non-officials, to last me from early morning till night, and fill up +every spare moment. My door was always open, and the guard at the great +gate had orders to let every one pass. All the minor gates were +unguarded.</p> +<p>No attempt was made by the Durbar, as in other native states, to +bribe the Residency servants, except in one notable case that happened +before my time. All negotiations were carried on with the Political +Agent direct, and the penurious Manipuris would have thought it waste +of money to bribe his servants. This was a very satisfactory state of +things, and probably saved many unpleasant complications.</p> +<p>In my dealings with the Durbar, I always tried to bear in mind that +I was the representative of the strong dealing with the weak, and so to +ignore little silly acts of self-assertion, such as a native court +loves to indulge in, and childish ebullitions, as unworthy of notice. +Whenever it became necessary for me to interfere, I did so with great +firmness, but always tried to carry the Maharajah and his ministers +with me, and make any desired reform appear to emanate from him. Except +on one occasion, I never experienced any rudeness from an official.</p> +<p>At the same time when any attempt was made to infringe on the rights +of the British Government or <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb111" href= +"#pb111" name="pb111">111</a>]</span>its subjects, I spoke in very +unmistakable language. I think the Durbar gave me credit for good +intentions and appreciated my desire to work with them; of course they +tried to get all they could out of me, and it was a daily, but, on the +whole, friendly struggle between us. I knew perfectly well that to +exalt themselves, the Court party spoke of me behind my back in +disparaging terms, and boasted of what they could do, and of their +independence of the British Government, but I was quite satisfied that +they did not believe what they said, and that in all important matters +they deferred to me on every point, and were always coming to me to +help them out of difficulties. I kept in mind Colonel McCulloch’s +wise saying to the Rajah: “I don’t care what you say of me, +so long as you do as I tell you.” <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb112" href="#pb112" name="pb112">112</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1648" href="#xd20e1648src" name="xd20e1648">1</a></span> Quoted +by kind permission of editor from my article in <i>Nineteenth +Century</i>.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch13" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XIII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Violent conduct of Prince Koireng—A +rebuke—Service payment—Advantage of Manipuri +system<span class="corr" id="xd20e1675" title= +"Source: . ">—</span>Customs duty—Slavery—Releasing +slaves—Chowba’s fidelity—Sepoy’s kindness to +children—Visit to the Yoma range.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">An incident occurred which might have caused some +trouble, while it served to show the violent disposition of Kotwal +Koireng, later known as the Senaputtee. One evening my Naga interpreter +reported to me that an Angami Naga of Kohima had been cruelly assaulted +by that prince, while he was passing along the road to the east of the +palace enclosure. Soon after the man was brought in to me, and an +examination by my native doctor proved that he was suffering from a +severe contusion above the right eye, which might or might not prove +fatal. Now, strictly speaking, the man was not a British subject, but +some day or other he was sure to be one, and we had assumed an +indefinite control over his people. This made me feel that passing over +the offence as one not concerning us, would be to lose prestige with +Manipur, as well as with the Naga tribes, who ought, I felt, to be +assured of my sympathy. I therefore at once sent a strong remonstrance +to the Durbar, claiming the man as a British subject, and demanding +prompt recognition of, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href= +"#pb113" name="pb113">113</a>]</span>reparation for the outrage. On +further investigation it appeared, that the man was with some of his +friends carrying a large joint of beef on his shoulder just as Kotwal +Koireng was passing, and a few drops of blood fell on the ground; this +enraged the Prince so much that he at once attacked the man with a +thick stick which he carried, and beat him till he was almost +senseless. There was no real provocation, as eating the flesh of cows +that had died a natural death was always allowed, and any dead cow was +at once handed over to the Nagas and other hill-tribes; it was simply +an outburst of temper. The result was, that until the man’s +recovery was assured, Kotwal was held in a species of arrest; then he +was released and sent with the Jubraj to make an apology to me; the man +received a sum of money, and the affair ended amicably. I did not often +come across the princes, though sometimes I met them out riding, and +then we were very friendly. Once when I was walking out, I met one of +the younger ones riding in state on an elephant, he forgot to make the +usual salutation. This was reported to the Maharajah, who sent him with +Thangal Major to apologize.</p> +<p>The Manipuris paid very little revenue in money, and none in direct +taxes. The land all belonged to the Rajah, and every holding paid a +small quantity of rice each year. The chief payment was in personal +service. This system known by the name of “Lalloop,” and by +us often miscalled “forced labour,” was much the same as +formerly existed in Assam under its Ahom Rajahs. According to it, each +man in the country was bound to render ten <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb114" href="#pb114" name= +"pb114">114</a>]</span>days’ service out of every forty, to the +Rajah, and it extended to every class in the community. Women were +naturally exempt, but, among men, the blacksmith, goldsmith, +carpenters, etc., pursued their different crafts in the Rajah’s +workshops for the stated time, while the bulk of the population, the +field workers, served as soldiers, and made roads or dug canals, in +fact executed great public works for the benefit of the state.</p> +<p>The system was a good one, and when not carried to excess, pressed +heavily on nobody. It was especially adapted to a poor state sparsely +populated. In such a state, under ordinary circumstances, where the +amount of revenue is small, and the rate of wages often comparatively +high, it is next door to impossible to carry out many much-needed +public works by payment. On the other hand, every man in India who +lives by cultivation, has much spare time on his hands, and the +“Lalloop” system very profitably utilises this, and for the +benefit of the community at large. I never heard of it being complained +of as a hardship. The system in Assam led to the completion of many +useful and magnificent public works. High embanked roads were made +throughout the country, and large tanks, lakes, appropriately termed +“seas,” were excavated under this arrangement. Many of the +great works of former ages in other parts of India are due to something +of the same kind.</p> +<p>It was a sad mistake giving up the system in Assam, without +retaining the right of the state to a certain number of days’ +labour on the roads every year, as is the custom to this <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115" name="pb115">115</a>]</span>day, +I believe, in Canada, Ceylon, and other countries.</p> +<p>Unfortunately, our so-called statesmen are carried away by false +ideas of humanitarianism, and a desire to pose in every way as the +exponents of civilisation, that is the last fad that is uppermost, and +the experience of ages and the real good of primitive people are often +sacrificed to this <i>ignis fatuus</i>. I hear that +“Lalloop” has been abolished in Manipur since we took the +state in charge. We may live to regret it; the unfortunate puppet Rajah +certainly will. Why cannot we leave well alone, and attack the real +evils of India that remain still unredressed, evils that to hear of +them, would make the hair of any decent thinking man stand on end? We +have still to learn that the native system has much good in it, much to +recommend it, and that it is in many cases the natural outgrowth of the +requirements of the people.</p> +<p>Manipur in old days required very little to make it a model native +state of a unique type, and its people the happiest of the happy. All +it required was a better administration of justice, and a few smaller +reforms, also more enlightened fiscal regulations such as many European +states have not yet attained. Given these, no one would have wished for +more. No one asked for high pay; enough to live on, and the system of +rewards already in force from time immemorial, satisfied all +aspirations. The people were contented and happy, and it should have +been our aim and object to keep them and leave them so. Shall we have +accomplished this desirable object when we hand over the state to its +future <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb116" href="#pb116" name= +"pb116">116</a>]</span>ruler, that is if it ever does again come under +a Native Government?</p> +<p>One of the standing grievances of the Government of India against +Manipur, was the levying of customs duties on all articles imported +into the state, and on some articles exported to British territory. +These duties supplied almost the only money revenue the Maharajah had, +and also to some extent protected Manipuri industries. During my tenure +of office I did something towards regulating the system, and in the +case of articles not produced in Manipur, induced the Durbar to lower +the rates. In the case of cloths, however, I strongly advocated the +duties being kept up, where, as in the case of coarse cloths the +imports entered into competition with the excellent manufactures of +Manipur, which I wished to see preserved in all their integrity.</p> +<p>Our system of free trade has done much to injure useful trades in +India, and none more than those in cotton goods. Among an ignorant +people the incentives of cheapness and outward appearance are so great, +that the sudden importation of cheap and inferior foreign goods may +kill out an ancient art, and the people only discover when too late +what they have lost, and then lament having abandoned the really good +for the attractive flimsy article. Thus, in many parts of India, the +beautiful chintzes which were common thirty-five years ago, are now +nowhere to be had, and every year sees the decay of some branch of +manufacture. This was very noticeable in Assam, and the arts there lost +were only kept up in Manipur, owing to its having a Native Court where +tradition and taste encouraged <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb117" +href="#pb117" name="pb117">117</a>]</span>them. Soon after I went to +Manipur, I found that the valley had almost been drained of ponies by +their exportation to Cachar. The ministers consulted me about it, and I +gave my consent to the trade being stopped, and this was done for years +until the numbers had again increased.</p> +<p>On the whole the duties on almost every article were lowered during +my term of office, and the imports largely increased. Indeed, but for +the cumbersome system of levying the custom charges, they would have +been no grievance at all; and as it was they hardly added anything to +the cost of the articles when sold in Manipur, many of which could be +bought for little more than the price paid in Cachar, plus the charge +for carriage.</p> +<p>Slavery of a mild form existed in Manipur, the slaves being +hereditary ones, or people, and the descendants of people who had sold +themselves for debt, their services being pledged as interest for the +debt. For instance a Naga (a very common case), marries a girl of +another Naga village, thereby incurring a debt of forty rupees to the +father, that being the price of a Naga bride. The man not being able to +pay, his father-in-law says, “Sell yourself, and pay me.” +This is done, and the man pays the forty rupees and has to work for his +master till he can pay the debt, something being sometimes allowed for +subsistence, or they agree upon a monthly payment, which if not paid is +added to the principal. The wife probably works and supports the +family, and, if the creditor is a fairly good fellow, things go +smoothly, and the debtor never attempts to fulfil his obligations more +than he can help. The law allows <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb118" +href="#pb118" name="pb118">118</a>]</span>a man to transfer his +services to any one who will take up the debt. Here and there great +abuses crop up, and the master takes advantage of the corrupt courts to +bind the slave more and more securely in the chains of debt, and then +every effort is made to escape. I often paid the debts of slaves who +came to me for help and let them work off the money. Once a little girl +named Nowbee came to me. Her mother had sold her to pay her +father’s funeral expenses. She stayed with us, working in the +nursery for years, and when I left I forgave her the remainder of her +debt which was unpaid, as, of course, I did with all the others. I once +offered to redeem the mother, who, in turn, had sold herself, but the +old woman declined, as some one told her that we should take her to +England, and she was afraid to go. Sometimes cases of very cruel +ill-treatment came before me, or cases where people had been made +slaves contrary to the laws, and then I made a strong remonstrance to +the Durbar, and insisted on justice. Once or twice I took the +complainants under my protection immediately, and insisted on keeping +them. One day a young man and a small boy came to me for protection: +the case was a bad one, and I at once took them into my service as the +best way of settling the difficulty, the young man as a gardener and +the boy to work in the kitchen and wait at table; both were named +“Chowba,” <i>i.e.</i> big; a name as common out there as +John in England. We gave little Chowba clothes, and he stood behind my +wife’s chair at dinner, the first evening crying bitterly from +fear. However, he learned his work, and became an excellent servant. +When I went on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119" name= +"pb119">119</a>]</span>leave in 1882, I offered to place him with my +<i>locum tenens</i>, but the boy said, “No, sahib, you have been +kind to me; I have broken your things and you have threatened to beat +me, but have never done so; you have threatened to cut my pay, but have +never done so; I will never serve any one but you!” The poor boy +kept his word; he preferred hard toil, cutting wood and such-like work; +but unfortunately died before I returned.</p> +<p>Another bad case I remember, in which a woman complained to me that +her child had been stolen from her house while she was away. I ordered +the child to be brought to me; the poor little thing was only four +years old, and could hardly stand from having been made to walk a great +distance by the man who had stolen her, and whose only excuse was, that +her father, who was dead, owed him nine rupees. I gave her to her +mother, and insisted on the Durbar punishing him. The story was a sad +one. The father of the child, a debtor slave, had been told by his +master to leave his home and go with him, and the man in desperation +attempted to kill his wife and little girl, and then committed +suicide.</p> +<p>While in Manipur I did all I could to afford relief in individual +cases. It was a great abuse, but slavery in Manipur must not be put in +the same rank as slavery in Brazil, the West Indies, or Turkey and +Arabia. A thorough reform of the judicial system of Manipur would have +entirely taken the sting out of it. All the same, I wish I could have +abolished it.</p> +<p>My wife’s nurse very speedily left us, and we were left to +natives and did much better with them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb120" href="#pb120" name="pb120">120</a>]</span>We always had three +or four Naga girls who did their work well in a rough-and-ready way. +Chowbee, Nembee, and Nowbee, just mentioned, were the best. Chowbee was +the wife of a Naga bearer named Lintoo, and Nembee afterwards married +our head bearer Horna. We engaged a tailor named Suleiman, brother of +Sooltan, one of our chuprassies, as a permanent servant, to do the +ordinary household sewing and mending. My two boys, Dick and Edward, +became very friendly with all the people, and were drilled daily by a +naick (corporal of my escort), and the good-natured sepoys used to +allow themselves to be drilled by the boys. One afternoon, I met these +two walking up the lines with my orderly. I asked what they were going +for, and they replied that the sepoys had not done their drill well +that day, and they were going to give them some more. Whenever a new +detachment came, the boys were formally introduced to the new native +officers and men. As they grew older they learned to ride, and rode out +morning and evening when I went for a walk.</p> +<p>As the Burmese difficulty did not show signs of decreasing, I went +out in February to Kongjang on the Yoma range, to reconnoitre and +select a place for a new stockade, if necessary. At three and a half +miles on my way, I passed Langthabal, the old capital of Ghumbeer +Singh, a pretty place where the cantonment of the Manipur Levy used to +be, and where Captain Gordon was buried under a tree. The ruined palace +lies nestling under a hill, on a spur of which is a magnificent fir +tree; behind the palace a garden run to waste and wood, with a few +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121" name= +"pb121">121</a>]</span>ponds, formed an admirable cover for ducks, +which I saw in abundance. After leaving Langthabal, we passed a place +called Leelong, the place of execution for members of the Royal family, +who are sewn up in sacks and drowned in the river. Farther on is a +great fishing weir, where a small lake discharges itself into a river. +At last, after a march of thirty miles, I halted at Pullel, a village +of low caste Manipuris. Next morning we ascended the Yoma range, +reaching Aimole, a village picturesquely situated and inhabited by a +tribe of that name. The head of the village was an intelligent old man, +who remembered Captain Gordon and talked a good deal about him. I gave +him a coat, and the girls and boys of the village got up a dance for my +benefit, the most graceful and modest that I ever saw among a wild +people.</p> +<p>I reached Kongjang in the afternoon, a place very picturesquely +situated, with a fine view of the valley of the Lokchao and the hills +beyond, and of a portion of the Kubo valley. I selected a spot for a +stockade, and, after reconnoitring in the neighbourhood, marched back +next day to Pullel, and thence to Manipur, again passing Langthabal. I +never saw Langthabal without regretting its abandonment, there is +something very charming about the situation, and it is nearer to +Bissenpore on the Cachar road than Imphal; also a few miles nearer the +Kubo valley. It has always had the reputation of being very healthy, +which is not invariably the case with Imphal, and is, if anything, a +little cooler. Before leaving in 1886, I strongly recommended it as the +site for a cantonment, in the event of troops being stationed in the +valley. My recommendation was adopted. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb122" href="#pb122" name="pb122">122</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XIV.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">An old acquaintance—Monetary crisis—A cure +for breaking crockery—Rumour of human sacrifices—Improved +postal system—Apricots and mulberries—A snake +story—Search after treasure—Another snake story—Visit +to Calcutta—Athletics—Ball practice—A near shave.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">We had not been dull in the Naga Hills, still less in +Manipur, for I was always interested in native life. Something to vary +one’s work was constantly occurring.</p> +<p>One day some men in Shan costume came and asked me for a pass to +enter Burmah. I inquired who they were, and one said he was the +Chowmengti Gohain. I remembered him fourteen years before, at Sudya, in +Assam, when he was but a boy. He was the son of a Khampti chief, long +since dead. I asked him if he remembered me, and after a minute or two, +he did. I managed to keep up a conversation in Singpho, though I had +not spoken it for many years, and have never done so since. He was +going to Mandalay to marry a daughter to the king.</p> +<p>Time went on fairly smoothly. I was occupied all day long, and used +to talk for hours to the ministers and others who came to see me, while +my wife looked after the house and children, and taught the Naga girls +to knit and sew, and other useful things. When the weather grew too +hot, we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" href="#pb123" name= +"pb123">123</a>]</span>migrated to Kang-joop-kool, and enjoyed the +change. About this time much dissatisfaction was caused by speculators +in the capital hoarding “sel,” the coin of the country. The +usual rate at which they were exchanged for the rupee was 480 = 1 +rupee, but there were occasional fluctuations; large sums were paid in +rupees, but the amount was always reckoned in sel. Consequently, when +the latter were hoarded, a man having only rupees in his possession +found their purchasing power greatly diminished. On this occasion, +almost all the “sel” in circulation were collected in a few +hands and a panic was the result; the bazaar was in an uproar, and +business ceased. I spoke to the Maharajah on the subject, and +represented the very great injury to the country that would inevitably +result if immediate steps were not taken to rectify the mischief done, +and urged him to issue a large quantity of sel. This he did, and the +exchange which had gone down to 240, at once rose to 400, and at this +rate he fixed it, and so it remained all the time I was in Manipur.</p> +<p>Our Naga boys, though intelligent and willing to learn, were +careless and often worse, as in playing and fighting with each other, +they broke much crockery, and the loss was serious, as it took months +to replace it. I threatened in vain, as I could not bear to make the +poor lads pay. At last, in desperation, I hit upon a remedy; I said +that the next time anything was broken, the breaker should pound it up +to a fine powder with a pestle and mortar, and mix it with water and +drink it. This threat had some effect, but at last one day the old cook +brought up <span class="corr" id="xd20e1753" title= +"Source: Murumbo">Murumboo</span>, our musalchee (<i>i.e.</i> +dishwasher) with <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href="#pb124" +name="pb124">124</a>]</span>a vegetable dish in pieces, broken, as +usual, in play. I said very severely, “Very well, grind it to +powder in a pestle and mortar, and then you shall mix it with water and +drink it.” So Murumboo sat for hours in the sun, pounding away. +At last it was reduced to a fine powder, and I told him to mix it with +water and drink it in my presence. Of course, what I had foreseen, +happened, all the other servants headed by the old cook, Horna and +Sultan, came up and humbly begged that he might be forgiven this time, +a request which I graciously acceded to, and Murumboo went away very +penitent. The result was excellent, as for the future I hardly lost any +crockery. Poor Murumboo; he served me well, and became an excellent +cook and got a good place when I finally left.</p> +<p>The summer and autumn passed quietly, except for a rumour that human +sacrifices had been offered up, though no actual complaint was made. I +believe the report to have been true. I had seen enough of countries +where within a few years they had been undoubtedly offered, to know +that such things did occasionally happen among ignorant people, where +appeasing evil spirits is a common custom. I took such precautions as +effectually prevented any recurrence of this horrible practice.</p> +<p>One reform carried out was in our postal arrangements. When I first +arrived, the post, which came in every other day, frequently took eight +days to reach us from Cachar, a distance of 132 miles. By altering the +system, I reduced it to a maximum of four days, though it often came +more quickly, and by constantly hammering at all concerned, I achieved +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb125" href="#pb125" name= +"pb125">125</a>]</span>the triumph of a daily post delivered in less +than two days from Cachar before I left.</p> +<p>Once when riding between Manipur and Kang-joop-kool, I saw, in +passing a small bazaar, a woman selling apricots. I made inquiries +about them, and was told that they had existed from time immemorial, +but that they would give me a violent internal pain if I ate them. I +did try them, raw and cooked, but the statement was quite true, nothing +made them agreeable, and I did suffer pain. They were probably +introduced from China in early days, and having been neglected had +degenerated. They blossom in January. I tried Himalayan apricots, and +the trees throve wonderfully, but could never, while I was in Manipur, +learn to blossom at the right time. They blossomed as they were +accustomed to do in their native country, that is three months too +late, and the fruit was destroyed by the early rains. Perhaps they have +by this time adapted themselves to the climate. I introduced Kabulee +mulberries and they did well, but those in the valley grew long like +the Indian variety, while those at Kang-joop-kool were shaped like the +common European mulberry, and very good to eat.</p> +<p>Another time when out riding in the evening, I witnessed a strange +sight. I was near Kooak Kaithel when I saw a large number of sparrows +assembled on the road in front, and perched on a clump of bamboos near; +others were constantly joining them, and numbers were flying to the +spot from all sides. They first joined the assemblage on the road, and +then flew up to and around the bamboos, which were already covered with +the first-comers. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126" href="#pb126" +name="pb126">126</a>]</span>I asked one of my mounted orderlies what it +all meant. He said that a snake was concealed among the bamboos, and +that the birds were come to see him and try and drive him out. Whatever +be the explanation, it was a very interesting sight, and I never at any +time saw such a large number of small birds together. Once when riding +along this same road, but farther on, in company with Thangal Major, I +happened to see a deep hole freshly dug in the side of a hill, +apparently without any object. I asked him what it was dug for, and he +replied that it was probably some refugee returned to the land of his +ancestors, who had dug it, in search for treasure buried during the +Burmese invasion by a relation, who had left an exact description of +the spot as a guide to any of his descendants who might return. He said +that there were many cases of this kind. I used to hear the same story +many years ago in Assam where the truth was never questioned, and many +were the tumuli that bore the marks of having been opened by searchers +“for buried gold.” I never knew of an authentic case of the +kind in Manipur, but doubtless old Thangal could tell of many such; +possibly he had shared in the proceeds.</p> +<p>I have just related a story of birds attacking a snake, and I may as +well tell another story in which one of his tribe was the aggressor. +When returning from my cottage at Kang-joop-kool, after a day spent +there in October, I saw an enormous python poised up on the high +embanked road with its head erect, and body and tail in coils on the +slope, ready to spring on some young buffaloes grazing near; it must +have been at the lowest estimate thirty feet <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127" name="pb127">127</a>]</span>long +and of proportionate thickness. I was too near, and riding too fast, to +stop my pony, so gave a loud shout, and urged him to speed, and the +snake turned itself back and fell with a crash into a morass by the +road side, and I saw no more of it. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, +and he told me that pythons were known to exist about the place where I +saw this. I once shot a young one on the Diphoo Panee river, near +Sudya, which measured nine feet, and a sepoy of my old regiment shot +one near Borpathar fifteen feet in length.</p> +<p>Several very deadly snakes abound in Manipur, notably the +“Tanglei” and the “Ophiophagus,” a terrible +looking creature, eight to twelve feet in length. No house is safe from +snakes, and in the old Residency one fell from the roof once in my +bedroom, from where a few minutes previously the baby’s +bassinette had hung, so the child had a narrow escape. I never dare let +the children play alone in the garden for fear of their being +bitten.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e1781width"><img src="images/p127.jpg" alt= +"Kohima." width="720" height="473"> +<p class="figureHead">Kohima.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 127.</i></p> +</div> +<p>The extreme loneliness of Manipur, and the necessity of leaving my +wife and children quite alone sometimes, made me very anxious to get +some trustworthy English nurse for her, but we quite failed in doing +so. In this emergency, one of her sisters volunteered to come out, +which was a great help and relief. As I had to go to Calcutta to see +the Viceroy in December, we asked her to meet us there. We left Manipur +on November 27th, 1878, and returned on January 23rd, bringing her with +us. Kohima was occupied by the Political Agent of the Naga Hills (Mr. +Damant), in November, and before leaving for Calcutta I had some +correspondence <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href="#pb128" name= +"pb128">128</a>]</span>with him, and, at his request, sent my +escort—then consisting of Cachar Frontier Police; men, for +service qualities in the hills, far superior to the Native Infantry I +had—to his assistance.</p> +<p>In Calcutta, I met Sir Steuart Bayley, who had been lately appointed +Chief Commissioner of Assam, and had interviews with the Viceroy, Lord +Lytton, and the Foreign Secretary, Mr. (now Sir Alfred) Lyall.</p> +<p>Early in 1879, there was some discontent on account of the dearness +of rice, owing to a deficient crop, but there was no real anxiety, as +the stock of rice in hand was sufficient. I remember that during that +time I was rather scandalised at hearing that the old Ranee had gone +off to Moirang on the Logtak lake for change of air, accompanied by a +retinue of over one thousand persons. Many people had been employed for +weeks past in building a little temporary town for their accommodation, +and all for five days’ stay. I remonstrated with Thangal Major at +this useless waste of resources at a time when food was scarce, and +told him that he ought to prevent such thoughtlessness. He told me, and +I believe sincerely, that he greatly regretted it, and promised to use +his influence to amend matters, but said what was perfectly true, that +if he gave good advice, there were plenty of people quite ready to +offer the reverse, and contradict his statements. I often thought what +an advantage it would have been, if we had insisted on all authority +being in the hands of one powerful minister responsible to us. Under a +strong man like Chandra Kirtee Singh there would have been some +difficulty in arranging it, but under <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb129" href="#pb129" name="pb129">129</a>]</span>his weak, though +amiable and intelligent successor, Soor Chandra, it would have been +easy, and would have saved us one of the most painful and disgraceful +episodes in our history.</p> +<p>Almost every day brought some exciting news from the frontier. One +day, an incursion by Chussad Kukies on the Kubo side; another, an +outrage committed by Sookti Kukies. Then a little later a report that +the Muram Nagas were restless. All these reports came to me at once, +and I had to decide what was to be done. Occasionally an expedition was +the result, regarding the conduct of which I gave general instructions. +Sometimes late at night a minister came to me in a high state of +excitement at some outrage on the Burmese frontier, in which, of +course, every one, from the Court of Mandalay downwards, was said to be +implicated. Anything against Burmah was readily believed, and not +without reason, perhaps, judging from past history, and I had, on the +spur of the moment, to decide on the policy to be adopted, and calm +down and convince my impulsive visitor.</p> +<p>Manipur is a great place for athletics, and some fine wrestling is +to be seen there. Athletic sports are regularly held at stated periods, +sometimes for Manipuris, at other times for Nagas. At the last there +are races run by men, carrying heavy weights on their backs. At the +conclusion of these exhibitions of strength and skill, four Manipuris, +dressed in Naga costume, executed a Naga war dance. This I always +thought the most interesting part of the performance, showing as in +many other cases, the tacit acknowledgment of a connection with the +hill-tribes surrounding them. It always reminded me of the <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb130" href="#pb130" name="pb130">130</a>]</span>same +connection between the Rajahs in the hill tracts of Orissa, Sumbulpore +and Chota Nagpore, and their aboriginal subjects. I am rather inclined +to believe that in the case of Manipur some of the customs point +distinctly to the Rajahs being descended from, or having been +originally installed by, the hill-tribes, as was notably the case in +Keonjhur one of the Cuttack Tributary Mehals. To this subject, however, +I have already referred.</p> +<p>During each cold season, I insisted on the Manipuri troops being put +through musketry practice with ball cartridge, and often attended for +hours together, with the Maharajah, to see how the men acquitted +themselves. Sometimes the firing went on all day, the targets being +erected at one end of the private polo ground in the palace, with a +mountain of rice straw in their rear to catch stray bullets. Sometimes +the bullets went through everything, and one evening, as my wife and +myself with the children, were taking our evening walk, we had ocular +demonstration of this, as a shot passed close to my second boy’s +(Edward) head. I spoke to Thangal Major about it, suggesting that the +pile of straw should be made thicker, but only elicited the reply, +“Of course, if you go in the line of fire, you must expect to be +shot.” This reminded me of my early days in Assam, when my old +regimental friend Ross shot another friend out snipe shooting. The +latter complained, but all the satisfaction he got from Ross was, +“Well, you must have been in the way.” <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb131" href="#pb131" name="pb131">131</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch15" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XV.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Spring in Manipur—Visit to +Kombang—Manipuri orderlies—Parade of the Maharajah’s +guards—Birth of a daughter—An evening walk in the +capital—Polo—Visit to Cachar.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights +are still cool, though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering +trees come into blossom; among them one that attains a considerable +size, called in Manipuri “Chinghow.” It has two kinds, one +with pink and the other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are +wild pears and azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and +there are beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the +fresh young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower, +so that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from +morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early in +April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to +Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above +the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600 feet +above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and 56 +degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang, it +was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the +thermometer. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132" href="#pb132" name= +"pb132">132</a>]</span>I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in +Manipur, and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise +temperature lower in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were +sometimes colder than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I +found very great cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day +temperature in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley, +in short, it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the +place not particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud +crackling of a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for +<i>one crop</i>. It is difficult to speak with patience of this +abominable system, which is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern +India, and destroying valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic +habits in the tribes.</p> +<p>Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual +Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned +officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa, +Sundha, Thŭt-tôt, and Thûrûng were those +generally sent, excellent men who never left me from morning till +night, on the hardest march. Many was the adventure we had together, +and any one of them could march fifty miles on end. They were well +known throughout the hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed +one of my party, and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as +we approached our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a +special reward from me on my return to headquarters.</p> +<p>One day the Maharajah invited me to attend a review of his regiment +of guards called the “Soor Pultun.” <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133" name="pb133">133</a>]</span>I +went, and he asked me whether he should put them through their +manœuvres himself, or let one of his officers do it. Not wishing +him, as I thought, to expose his ignorance, I suggested the last; but, +to my surprise, he conducted the parade himself very creditably, giving +the word of command in English with great clearness. The men’s +marching was poor, and the step not free enough, but otherwise they did +well. They were fairly well up in the Light Infantry exercises of ten +years back, and their drill generally was a slight modification of that +of 1859. On this, as on most occasions, when an invitation was sent by +the Maharajah, it was conveyed by two or three officers of not lower +rank than that of subadar or captain, and generally by word of mouth. +If I was away in camp all communications were by letter, sometimes +accompanied by a verbal message.</p> +<p>On February 28th, 1879, we were gladdened by the birth of a little +daughter. Being a girl, her arrival did not cause as much excitement as +Arthur’s, but when she was old enough to be carried out in a +small litter, all the population turned out to see her, and passers-by +would sometimes offer her a flower. How interesting our daily walks +were. Turning to the left, after leaving our gate by the guard-house, +we passed along by the wide moat surrounding the palace, and in which +as has been said the great annual boat races were held. There, might be +seen women washing their babies by the waterside in wooden tubs, cut +out of a single block bought for the purpose. At every step, if in the +evening, we passed or were passed by gaily clad women carrying baskets +of goods to sell in the great bazaar, “Sena Kaithel,” +<i>i.e.</i>, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href="#pb134" name= +"pb134">134</a>]</span>Golden Bazaar, assembled opposite the great gate +of the palace, the picturesque structure already alluded to. In this +bazaar the women sat in long rows on raised banks of earth, without any +other covering in the rainy weather than large umbrellas. Here could be +bought cloth of all kinds, ornaments, rice, etc., fowls and vegetables. +Dogs were also sold for food. As a rule, articles of food other than +fowls, were more plentiful in the morning bazaar. Blind people and +other beggars would post themselves in different parts of the market, +and women as they passed would give them a handful of rice, or any +other article of food they possessed. Women are the great traders, and +many would walk miles in the morning, and buy things in the more +distant bazaars to sell again in the capital in the evening. It was not +considered etiquette for men too often to frequent the bazaars, and few +Manipuris did so, but crowds of hill-men were constantly to be seen +there, and it presented a very gay and animated scene, the contrast +between the snow-white garments of Manipuri men, the parti-coloured +petticoats of the women, and the many-coloured clothes of the hill-men +being very picturesque. Opposite the great gateway on the right-hand +side, Royal proclamations were posted up. There, too, in presence of +all the bazaar, offenders were flogged, generally with the utmost +severity. This was, I am sorry to say, rather an attractive spectacle +to foreigners. Going through the bazaar along a fine broad road, the +only masonry bridge in the country was seen crossing the river, and on +the opposite bank the road turned sharp to the left, and went off to +Cachar. Before crossing it, and to the left was a piece of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135" name= +"pb135">135</a>]</span>waste ground with a rather ill-looking tree in +it, under which men were executed. Opposite, and to the right of the +road, was the sight of the morning bazaar. Here I have seen boat-loads +of pine-apples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent +Garden.</p> +<p>Between the Residency grounds, the “Sena Kaithel” and +the great road, was the famous polo ground, where the best play in the +world might be seen. There was a grand stand for the Royal family on +the western side, and one for myself on the north. Sunday evening was +the favourite day, and then the princes appeared, and in earlier days +the Maharajah. In my time one of the Maharajah’s sons, Pucca +Sena, and the artillery major, were the champion players. In Manipur, +every man who can muster a pony plays, and every boy who cannot, plays +on foot.</p> +<p>But to continue our walk. Passing the bazaar, we still skirt the +palace, meeting fresh groups and turning sharp round at one of the +angles of the moat, here covered with water lilies, come upon an +exceedingly picturesque temple once shaded with a peepul tree +(<i><span class="corr" id="xd20e1841" title= +"Source: Frecis">Ficus</span> religiosa</i>); this tree was torn off by +the great earthquake of June 30th, 1880. Afterwards taking two turns to +the right, and one to the left, and crossing a most dangerous-looking +bamboo bridge, we came upon a piece of woodland on the opposite bank of +the stream. This is the “Mah Wathee,” a bit of forest left +as it originally was for the wood spirits. It is now filled with +monkeys, which are great favourites with my children who have brought +rice for them which causes great excitement. But it is soon bedtime for +the young <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href="#pb136" name= +"pb136">136</a>]</span>monkeys, and the river being deep, they spring +on to the backs of their mothers who swim across with them in the most +human fashion. Saying good-night to the monkeys, we go homewards, +passing Moirang Khung, a tumulus said to be the site of a battle +between the Mungang and Moirang tribes; to this day a Moirang avoids +it. We pass a couple of boys riding jauntily on one pony, determined to +get as much pleasure out of life as they can. Finally, we reach home in +time for a game with the children, and dinner.</p> +<p>I have alluded to the high esteem in which the game of polo was held +in this, its native home, and of the splendid play that could be seen +on Sundays. I never played myself, much as I should have enjoyed it. +Had I been a highly experienced player, able to contend with the best +in Manipur, I might have done so; but I did not think I was justified, +holding the important position I did, in running the risk of being +hustled and jostled by any one with whom I played: men whom I was bound +to keep at arm’s length. Had I done so I should have lost +influence. I could not be hail-fellow-well-met, and though talking +freely with all, I at once checked all disposition to familiarity, and +people rarely attempted it.</p> +<p>Colonel McCulloch, it is true played, but he began life in Manipur +as an Assistant Political Agent, and also did not succeed to office as +I did, when our prestige had dwindled down to nothing.</p> +<p>In September 1879, hearing that Sir Steuart Bayley, Chief +Commissioner and Acting Lieut.-Governor of Bengal, was about to visit +Cachar, I went there to see him, performing the double journey +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb137" href="#pb137" name= +"pb137">137</a>]</span>including a night there, in less than seven +days. It was the first time I had made the march in the rainy season, +and I was greatly struck by the extreme beauty of the scenery which was +much enhanced by the number of waterfalls, that a month later would +have been dry. The masses of clouds and the clearness of the air when +rain was not falling, added greatly to the effect, and I enjoyed the +journey till I got to the low-lying land. There the mud, slush, and +great heat were unpleasant. It was very satisfactory to be able to +discuss the affairs of Manipur with the Chief Commissioner, as though I +was not then directly under him, I was from my position very dependent +on him, and was anxious to hear his views on many subjects. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb138" href="#pb138" name= +"pb138">138</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch16" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XVI.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Punishment of female criminals—A man saved from +execution—A Kuki executed—Old customs +abolished—Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh—The Manipuri +army—Effort to re-organise Manipur levy—System of +rewards—“Nothing for nothing”—An English +school—Hindoo festivals—Rainbows—View from +Kang-joop-kool.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Manipur professed to follow the old Hindoo laws, and +accordingly no woman was ever put to death, or to very severe +punishment. When one was convicted of any heinous or disgraceful +offence she was exposed on a high platform in every bazaar in the +country, stripped to the waist, round which a rope, one end of which +was held by her guard, was tied and her breasts painted red. A crier at +the same time proclaimed her crime, and with a loud voice called out +from time to time, “Come and look at this naughty +woman!”</p> +<p>Exposure on a platform was also a punishment inflicted occasionally +on male offenders. Sometimes it was followed by death. Once I saved a +man from this part of the sentence, his crime being one for which our +law would not have exacted so severe a penalty. Fortunately, I heard in +time, and a message to the Maharajah in courteous, but unmistakable +terms, brought about a remission of the capital portion. The ministers +generally consulted me before carrying out sentence of death. Once in a +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href="#pb139" name= +"pb139">139</a>]</span>case of murder by a Kuki they asked my opinion, +so I requested them to send the man to me that I might examine him +myself. This was done, and as he confessed openly to being guilty, I +told them they might execute him, and as an after-thought said +“How shall you put him to death?” <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e1868" title="Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh replied, +“According to the custom of Manipur, in the way in which he +committed the murder. As he split his victim’s head open with an +axe so will his head be split open.” I said “I have no +objection in this case on the score of humanity, but it is not a pretty +mode of execution; some day there will be a case accompanied by +circumstances of cruelty, when I shall be obliged to interfere; so take +my advice, and on this occasion and all future ones, adopt decapitation +as the mode of carrying out a death sentence. You can do it now with a +good grace, and without any apparent interference on my part to offend +your dignity.” Old <span class="corr" id="xd20e1871" title= +"Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh said, “Oh no, the laws of +Manipur are unalterable, we cannot change; we must do as we have always +done.” I said, “Nonsense, my old friend, go with Chumder +Singh (my native secretary and interpreter) and give my kind message to +the Maharajah, and say what I advise, as his friend.” In +half-an-hour Chumder Singh returned with an assurance that my advice +was accepted, and from that time decapitation was the form of capital +punishment adopted.</p> +<p>I never knew a case of torture being employed, but otherwise the +laws were carried out with severity. Ghumbeer Singh (reigned +1825–34) occasionally tore out an offender’s eyes, but such +things had been forgotten in the days of his son, and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140" name= +"pb140">140</a>]</span>though the Government was strong, probably there +were fewer acts of cruelty than in most native states. Once when +Ghumbeer Singh had lately introduced tame geese into the country; he +gave two to a Brahmin to take care of. It was reported that a goose was +dead. “Tell the Brahmin to eat it,” said the indignant +Rajah. The severity of such an order to a Hindoo will be appreciated, +by any one knowing what loss of caste entails. Ghumbeer Singh’s +orders were always implicitly obeyed, so I am afraid that the sentence +was carried into effect.</p> +<p>The army consisted of about 5000 men at the outside, in eight +regiments of infantry and an artillery corps. The famous cavalry was a +thing of the past, and many of the infantry were quite unacquainted +with drill. There were eight three-pounder brass guns, and two +seven-pounder mountain guns given as a reward for services in the Naga +Hills, one of which did admirable service in the Burmese war. Most of +the infantry were armed with smooth-bore muskets, some being of the +Enfield pattern. Besides the above, there were about 1000 to 12,000 +Kuki Irregulars. A Manipuri military expedition was a strange sight, +the men besides their arms and ammunition carrying their spare clothes, +cooking vessels, food, etc., on their backs. All the same, they could +make long and tiring marches day after day on poor fare and without a +complaint, and at the end of a hard day would hut themselves and +fortify their position with great skill, however great the fatigue they +had undergone. It was a standing rule that in an enemy’s country +a small force should always stockade itself, and a Manipuri army well +commanded <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141" name= +"pb141">141</a>]</span>was then able to hold its own against a sudden +attack. On their return from a successful expedition the troops were +greatly honoured, and the general in command accorded a kind of +triumph, and it was an interesting sight to see the long thin line of +picturesque and often gaily-clad troops, regulars and irregulars +winding their way through the streets and groves of the capital bearing +with them spoils and trophies gained in war. Here a party headed by +banners, there some Kukis beating small gongs and chanting in a +monotonous tone. Finally, after marching round two sides of the palace, +they enter by the great gate, pass between the Chinese walls, and again +between the two lions (so called), and being received by the Maharajah +at the Gate of Triumph, their General throws himself at his feet and +receives his chief’s benediction, the greatest reward that he can +have.</p> +<p>I realised from the first that it would be an immense advantage to +reconstitute the Manipur Levy, and keep up a permanent force of 800 men +under my direct orders, properly paid, armed, clothed and disciplined. +I foresaw that a war with Burmah was a mere question of time, and +wished to have a force ready, so as to enable the British Government to +act with effect at a moment’s notice through Manipur, on the +outbreak of hostilities. Regular troops eat no more than irregular, and +are ten times as valuable. My plan was to have 800 men enlisted, of +whom 200 would have come on duty in rotation, according to the Manipur +system, all being liable to assemble at a moment’s notice. Thus a +splendid battalion of hardy men could have been formed, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142" name="pb142">142</a>]</span>with +which I could have marched to Mandalay. Such a force would have been +absolutely invaluable when the war broke out in 1885, men able to stand +the climate, march, fight, row boats, dig, build stockades, in fact do +all that the best men could be called upon to do. However, to my great +disappointment, the idea did not commend itself to Government, and I +never ceased to regret it. I often later on thought of the lives and +money that might have been saved in 1885–86 had we been better +prepared, the cost of the proposed levy would have been trifling.</p> +<p>One part of the Manipuri system ever struck me as very admirable, +and I tried always to encourage it; that was the system of rewarding +services by honorary distinctions. The permission to wear a peculiar +kind of turban, coat, or feather, or to assume a certain title was more +valued than any money reward, and men would exert themselves for years +for the coveted distinction. It is charming to see such simple tastes +and to aspire no higher than to do one’s duty and earn the +approval of our fellow-creatures.</p> +<p>One day the two ministers Thangal Major and <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e1890" title="Source: Bularaam">Bularam</span> Singh came to see +me, accompanied by old Rooma Singh Major. They looked rather uneasy, +and I suspected something was coming out. Presently Thangal rose and +saluted me, and said, “The Maharajah has promoted us to be +generals.” I received the intelligence without any enthusiasm, +feeling assured that the act had been dictated by a desire to give them +a more high-sounding title than my military one, I being then only a +lieut.-colonel. It was in fact a piece of self-assertion. Any one +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143" name= +"pb143">143</a>]</span>understanding Asiatics will know what I mean, +and that I knew instinctively it was a move in the game against me +which I ought to check. I coldly replied that of course the Maharajah +would please himself, but that I loved old things, old names, and old +faces, and that I had so many pleasant associations with the old titles +that I could not bring myself to use the new ones, and should continue +to call them by the dear old name of Major. I then shook hands with +them most cordially and said good-bye, and they left rather +crestfallen, where they had hoped and intended to be triumphant. I may +as well tell the remainder of the story. Time after time was I begged +to address my three friends as “General,” but I was +inexorable, and the titles almost fell into disuse among the Manipuris +who had at first adopted them. Old Thangal once had a long talk about +it, and I said plainly, “I give nothing for nothing: some day +when you do something I shall address you as General.” Years +passed. I went on leave, and my <i>locum tenens</i> too good-naturedly +gave in, and addressed them as General, and even induced the Chief +Commissioner of the day to do likewise. When he wrote to me and told me +of it, I was naturally not very pleased, and mentioned it to an old +Indian friend, who said, “Well, you will have to do the same now +that the Chief Commissioner has.” However, I was not going to +swerve from my word. I returned to Manipur, and one of the ministers +met me on the boundary river. I again greeted him as “Major +Sahib,” and immediately the new titles again began to fall into +disuse. I told the Chief Commissioner my views when I next met him, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144" name= +"pb144">144</a>]</span>and he approved, as I said I could not alter my +word.</p> +<p>Some time after this I again renewed efforts that I had long been +making for the establishment of an English school in Manipur. The +Durbar naturally objected; wisely from their point of view, they knew +as well as I did that the fact of their subjects learning English would +eventually mean a better administration of justice, and a gradual +sweeping away of abuses. I felt, however, that the time was come, and I +urged the question with great force, and one day said to the ministers, +“You have long wanted to be addressed as ‘General,’ +and I told you that when you did something worthy of it I should do so. +Now the day that the Maharajah gives his consent to an English school +being established, I shall address you as General.” A few days +afterwards the Maharajah’s consent was brought. I immediately +stood up and shook hands most warmly with them, saying, “I thank +you cordially, Generals.” From that day the question was finally +set at rest, after years of longing on the part of the old fellows. We +had always understood each other, and they felt and respected the part +I had taken, and, I believe, valued their titles all the more from my +not having given in at once.</p> +<p>The Rath Jatra Festival, <i>i.e.</i>, the drawing of the Car of +Juggernaut, is greatly honoured in Manipur, and every village has its +Rath (car). The Dewali, the feast of lights, is also faithfully kept. +Also the Rathwal, one of the feasts of Krishna, when there are many +dances, and an enormous bird is cleverly constructed of cloth with a +bamboo framework, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb145" href= +"#pb145" name="pb145">145</a>]</span>a man inside, who struts about to +the delight of the children. The Koli Saturnalia is also duly +celebrated; the red powder “Abeer,” is thrown about amongst +those who can get it, and the burning of the temporary shrines lights +up the sky at night, and the holes where the poles stood, are a fertile +source of danger to ponies and pedestrians for weeks afterwards. The +Durga Poojah is kept, but is a feast of minor importance. At the Rath +Jatra the number of people drawn together was enormous, and the white +mass could be very distinctly seen from Kang-joop-kool with a +telescope, when the weather was clear. This view was sometimes obscured +by clouds, and often when staying there did I wake up to see the whole +of the valley filled up with fog, like a vast sea of cotton-wool, +stretching across to the Yoma range of hills many miles away.</p> +<p>Lunar rainbows were not uncommon in Manipur, and I often saw them +from Kang-joop-kool. Often, too, from thence have I seen a complete +solar rainbow, each end resting on the level surface of the valley. +Once, in riding to Sengmai on a misty morning, I saw a white rainbow +rising from the ground; a fine and weird sight it was.</p> +<p>The view over the valley at night from the surrounding hills was +sometimes wonderful. I never shall forget one night in the rainy +season, when the moon was shining brightly in the valley, but obscured +from my view by an intervening cloud; the bright reflection on the +watery plain sent out a long stream of light which brightened up the +glistening temples of the Capelat. This, and the dim hills in the +distance, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href="#pb146" name= +"pb146">146</a>]</span>and the whole amphitheatre enclosed by them +lighted up faintly, while the dark threatening cloud hanging in air +between me and the rising moon, that had not yet apparently reached my +level (I was 2500 feet above the valley, and seemed to be looking down +on the moon), made a picture never to be forgotten. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147" name="pb147">147</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch17" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XVII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Mr. Damant—The Naga Hills—Rumours on which +I act—News of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant’s +surrender—Maharajah’s loyalty—March to the relief of +Kohima—Relief of Kohima—Incidents of siege—Heroism of +ladies—A noble defence.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">In November, 1878, Mr. Damant removed the headquarters +of the Naga Hills District from Samagudting to Kohima, and established +himself there with his party, in two stockades. He had a very ample +force for maintaining his position, but he had not sufficient to make +coercing a powerful village an easy task. He was an able man, with much +force of character, high-minded and upright, and had been greatly +respected in Manipur, where he acted as Political Agent for some months +after Dr. Brown’s death. He was also a scholar, and was perhaps +the only man of his generation in Assam capable of taking a +comprehensive view of the languages of the Eastern Frontier, and +searching out their origin. His premature death was an irreparable loss +to philology.</p> +<p>With all this he had not had sufficient experience with wild tribes +to be a fit match for the astute Nagas, and was constantly harassed by +the difficulty in the way of securing supplies, which ought to have +been arranged for him, in the early days of our <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href="#pb148" name= +"pb148">148</a>]</span>occupation of Samagudting, by making terms with +the Nagas as to providing food carriage. It was his misfortune that he +inherited an evil system. We had been forced into the hills by the +lawlessness of the Naga tribes, and we ought to have made them bear +their full share of the inconveniences attendant on our occupation, +instead of making our own people suffer.</p> +<p>Mr. Damant at first contemplated getting his supplies from Manipur, +through the Durbar, but they objected, it being their traditional +policy to prevent the export of rice for fear of famines, the distance +and cost of transport making the import, in case of scarcity, an +impossibility. I declined to put pressure, as I saw the reasonableness +of the Durbar argument, and I objected to force the hill population of +Manipur to spend their time in carrying heavy loads, to save the +turbulent and lazy Angamis. In September, 1879, however, I heard a +rumour from native sources that Mr. Damant was in great difficulties +and straits for want of provisions,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1931src" +href="#xd20e1931" name="xd20e1931src">1</a> and I wrote and told him +that if it were true, I would make every effort to send him some +supplies, and to help him in every way I could. I did not receive any +answer to this letter, and subsequently ascertained that it had never +reached him.</p> +<p>I knew the Angamis well, and was very anxious about Mr. Damant and +his party, and felt sure that some trouble was at hand.</p> +<p>About this time my wife’s health began to give me much +anxiety; she had one or two severe attacks of illness, and was much +reduced in strength. Who <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href= +"#pb149" name="pb149">149</a>]</span>that has not experienced it can +imagine the terrible, wearing anxiety of life on a distant frontier, +without adequate medical aid for those nearest and dearest to us. She +was better, though still very weak, when an event occurred that shook +the whole frontier.</p> +<p>Early in the morning of October 21st, I received a report from Mao +Tannah, the Manipuri outpost on the borders of the Naga Hills, to the +effect that a rumour had reached the officer there, that the Mozuma +Nagas had attacked either Kohima, or a party of our men somewhere else, +and had killed one hundred men. I have already mentioned my anxiety +about Mr. Damant’s position, and there was an air of authenticity +about the report which made me feel sure that some catastrophe had +occurred, and that he was in sore need. I said to Thangal Major, +“We will take off fifty per cent. for exaggeration, and even then +the garrison of Kohima will be so weakened that it is sure to be +attacked, and there will be a rising in the Naga Hills.”</p> +<p>I instantly took my resolve and detained my escort of the 34th B.I., +which had just been relieved by a party of Frontier Police, and was +about to march for Cachar. I also applied to the Maharajah for nine +hundred Manipuris, and sufficient coolies to convey our baggage. He at +once promised them, and I made arrangements to march as soon as the men +were ready; but there was some delay, as the men had to be collected +from distant villages. The next morning, before sunrise, Thangal Major +came to see me, bringing two letters from Mr. Cawley, Assistant +Political Agent, Naga Hills, and District Superintendent of Police. The +letters told <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150" name= +"pb150">150</a>]</span>me that Mr. Damant had been killed by the Konoma +men, and that he and the remainder were besieged in Kohima, and sorely +pressed by Nagas of several villages. Immediately after this, the +Maharajah himself came and placed his whole resources at my disposal, +and asked me what I would have. I said two thousand men, and he replied +that that was the number he himself thought necessary, and asked if he +should fire the usual five alarm guns, as a signal to call every +able-bodied man to the capital. I consented, and in ten minutes they +thundered forth their summons. Coolies to carry the loads were the +chief difficulty, as they, being hill-men, lived at a greater distance. +I also despatched a special messenger to Cachar to ask for more troops +and a doctor; and I made arrangements for assisting them on the road. I +despatched two hundred Manipuris by a difficult and little-frequented +path to Paplongmai (Kenoma<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1948src" href= +"#xd20e1948" name="xd20e1948src">2</a>), to make a diversion in the +rear of Konoma, as, from all I heard, it seemed that the astute Mozuma +was not involved. I sent on a man I could trust to the Mozuma people, +to secure their neutrality. I also sent my Naga interpreter, Patakee, +to Kohima, to do his best to spread dissension amongst its seven +different clans and prevent their uniting against me. I gave him a +pony, and told him to ride it till it dropped under him, and then to +march on foot for his life, and promised him 200 rupees reward if he +could deliver a letter to Mr. Cawley before the place fell. In the +letter I begged Mr. Cawley to hold out to the last as I was marching to +his assistance. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href="#pb151" +name="pb151">151</a>]</span></p> +<p>One day, about a year before, a fine young Naga of Viswema, a +powerful village of 1000 houses, a few miles beyond the frontier of +Manipur and right on our track, had come to me and asked me to take him +into my service. I did so, thinking he might be useful some day, and +now that the day had arrived, I sent him off to his people to win them +over, threatening to exterminate them if they opposed my march.</p> +<p>I had fifty men of the Cachar Police and thirty-four of the 34th +B.I., including two invalids, one of them a Naik, by name Buldeo +Doobey, who came out of hospital to go with me, as I wanted every man +who could shoulder a musket. For the same reason I enlisted a +volunteer, Narain Singh, a fine fellow, a Jât<a class="noteref" +id="xd20e1958src" href="#xd20e1958" name="xd20e1958src">3</a> from +beyond Delhi, who had served in the 35th B.I., so he took a +breach-loader belonging to a sick man of the 34th. I shall refer to him +again. He carried one hundred and twenty rounds of ball cartridge on +his person, three times as much as the men of the 34th. I sent off my +combined escort with all the Manipuris who were ready under Thangal +Major, and stayed behind to collect and despatch supplies and write +official letters and send off telegrams to Sir Steuart Bayley, and on +the 23rd rode out, and caught up my men at Mayang Khang, forty miles +from Manipur. The rear-guard of the 34th had not come up when I went to +bed that night at 11 <span class="sc">P.M.</span></p> +<p>I left my poor wife still very weak and I was thankful that she had +her good sister as a stay and support. Just before leaving, our +youngest boy <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152" name= +"pb152">152</a>]</span>Arthur held out his arms to be taken. I paused +from my work for a moment and took him. It was the last time I saw him. +Sad as was my parting, I rode off in high spirits; who would not do so +when he feels that he may be privileged to do his country signal +service! Besides, I hoped to find all well when I returned.</p> +<p>We left Mayang Khang on October 24th and marched to Mythephum, +twenty miles along a terribly difficult mountain path, much overgrown +by jungle. It was all I could do to get the 34th along, as they were +completely knocked up. I had a pony which I lent for part of the way to +one of my invalids and so helped him on. I was continually obliged to +halt myself and wait for the stragglers, cheer them up, and then run to +the front again. Narain Singh was invaluable and seemed not to know +fatigue. We reached Mythephum after dark, but the rear-guard did not +arrive till next morning.</p> +<p>At Mythephum I mustered my forces. The Maharajah had sent the Jubraj +and Kotwal Koireng with me (little did I think of the fate in store for +them and for old Thangal<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1975src" href= +"#xd20e1975" name="xd20e1975src">4</a>) and found that very few +Manipuris had arrived, and almost all of the force with me were so +knocked up that, to my intense disappointment, I had to make a halt. I +was too restless to sit still, so spent the day in reconnoitring the +country. In the evening I had an interview with Thangal Major and +afterwards with the Jubraj. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153" href= +"#pb153" name="pb153">153</a>]</span>Old Thangal was for halting till +we could collect a large force as he said a large one was required, and +he begged me to halt for a few days. I finally pointed out that a +day’s halt might cause the annihilation of the garrison of +Kohima, and said that if the Manipuris were not ready to move, I would +go along with any of my own men who could march. I appealed to the +Jubraj to support me which he did,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1982src" +href="#xd20e1982" name="xd20e1982src">5</a> and for which I was ever +grateful, and we arranged to march next day. I found that the Nagas of +Manipur were infected with a rebellious spirit, and not entirely to be +depended on, and any vacillation on our part might have been fatal, and +would certainly have sealed the fate of Kohima.</p> +<p>We left Mythephum at daybreak on the 26th, and marched as hard as we +could, as I hoped to cover the forty miles to Kohima by nightfall. We +stopped to drink water at the Mao river, which we forded, and to +prevent men wasting time, I drew my revolver and threatened to shoot +any one who dawdled. We ascended the steep hillside, and passing +through one of the villages marched on to Khoijami, a village on the +English side of the border. We had been so long, owing to the extreme +badness of the roads, and the fatigue of the men, that we only reached +it at 3 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, so I reluctantly halted for the +night.</p> +<p>Here my emissary to Viswema joined me, and told me that he had +induced his fellow-villagers to be friendly, and that presents would be +sent. I sent him back to demand hostages, and the formal submission +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb154" href="#pb154" name= +"pb154">154</a>]</span>of the village, as otherwise I would attack them +on the morrow and spare no one. It was not a time for soft speeches, +and I heard rumours that we were to be opposed next day.</p> +<p>Late in the afternoon some Mao Nagas brought in seven Nepaulee +coolies who had escaped from Kohima the previous day, and wandered +through the jungle expecting every moment to be killed. I gave the Mao +men twenty rupees as a reward. The Nepaulees said that they had been +shut outside the gate of the stockade by mistake, and had hidden +themselves and so got away. They gave a deplorable account of affairs, +and said that there was no food, and that the ammunition was almost all +spent, and that two ladies were in the stockade, Mrs. Damant and Mrs. +Cawley. They stated that Mr. Damant was taken unawares and shot dead, +and fifty men killed on the spot, and that thirty ran away and hid in +the jungles, some saving their arms, others not. Each man had fifty +rounds of ball cartridge. Most of the rifles lost were breech-loaders. +The men told me that early that morning they had seen smoke rising from +Kohima, and thought it might have been burned.</p> +<p>All this made me very anxious, as the men said that Mr. Cawley was +treating for a safe passage to Samagudting. Late in the evening I heard +that a building inside the stockade had been burned by the Nagas, who +threw stones wrapped in burning cloth on to the thatched roofs. The +Nagas in arms were said to number six thousand, and they had erected a +stockade opposite ours from which they fired. The fugitives were in a +miserable state of semi-starvation, <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb155" href="#pb155" name="pb155">155</a>]</span>and ashy pale from +terror, and seemed more dead than alive when they were brought to me. +We slept on our arms that night, at least such as could sleep, and rose +at 3 <span class="sc">A.M.</span> in case of an attack, that being a +favourite time for the Nagas to make one.</p> +<p>When ready, I addressed my men, telling them the danger of the +enterprise, but assuring them of its success, and urging them, in case +of my being killed or wounded, to leave me and push on to save the +garrison. I promised the Frontier Police that every man should be +promoted if we reached Kohima safely that night. This promise the +Government faithfully kept.</p> +<p>At sunrise I received two little slips of paper brought by two +Nepaulese coolies who had managed to escape, signed by Mr. Hinde, Extra +Assistant Commissioner, and hidden by them in their hair. On them was +written:—</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="first">Surrounded by Nagas, cut off from water Must be +relieved at once. Send flying column to bring away garrison at once. +Relief must be immediate to be of any use</p> +<p class="signed">H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. Kohima. 25 x. 79.</p> +</div> +<p>and—</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="first">We are in extremity, come on sharp Kohima not +abandoned.<br> +Kohima not abandoned</p> +<p class="signed">H. M. Hinde. A. P. A. 26 x. 79.</p> +</div> +<p>After getting these, I could not wait any longer, and, as the +Manipuris were not all ready, I started off at once with fifty of them +under an old officer, Eerungba Polla and sixty of my escort, all that +were able to make a rapid march, and Narain Singh. We carried with us +my camp Union Jack. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href="#pb156" +name="pb156">156</a>]</span></p> +<p>I obtained hostages from Viswema and placed them under a guard with +orders to shoot them instantly, if we were attacked, and on our arrival +at the village we were well received. At Rigwema, as we afterwards +discovered, a force of Nagas was placed in ambush to attack us, but the +precautions we took prevented their doing so, and we passed on +unmolested, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing the stockade at +Kohima still intact. A few miles farther, and on rounding the spur of a +hill, the stockade appeared in full view and we sounded our bugles +which were quickly answered by a flourish from Kohima.</p> +<p>We marched on with our standard flying, we reached the valley below, +we began the ascent of the last slope, and forming into as good order +as the ground would allow, we at last gained the summit and saw the +stockade, to save which, we had marched so far and so well, before us +at a distance of one hundred yards.</p> +<p>The garrison gave a loud cheer, which we answered, and numbers of +them poured out. Messrs. Cawley and Hinde grasped my hand, and others +of the garrison formed a line on either side of the gateway, and we +marched in between them. I recognised many old faces not seen since I +had left the Naga Hills in 1874, and warmly greeted them; especially +Mema Ram, a Subadar in the Frontier Police; Kurum Singh, and others. I +was told afterwards that when Mema Ram first heard that I was marching +to their relief, he said, “Oh, if Johnstone Sahib is coming we +are all right.”</p> +<p>I at once told the officers of the garrison that <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157" name= +"pb157">157</a>]</span>there could be no divided authority, and that +they must consider themselves subject to my orders, to which they +agreed. I then saw the poor widowed Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley who +had behaved nobly during the siege. While talking to the last, one of +her two children asked for some water. Her mother said in a feeling +tone, “Yes, my dear, you can have some now.” Seldom have I +heard words that sounded more eloquent.</p> +<p>The Manipuris now began to pour in, in one long stream, and were +greeted by the garrison with effusion, and I gave them the site of a +stockade that had been destroyed by Mr. Cawley, in order to reduce the +space to be defended as much as possible, and told them to stockade +themselves, which they did at once. After arranging for the defence of +our position, I sent off a letter to my wife to say that I was safe, +and that Kohima had been relieved, and telegrams to the Chief +Commissioner, and Government of India, to be sent on at once to Cachar, +the nearest telegraph office, informing them of the good news.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e2042width"><img src="images/p157.jpg" alt= +"Colonel Johnstone, the Princes of Manipur, Thangal Major, the European Officers in Kohima, etc." +width="720" height="454"> +<p class="figureHead">Colonel Johnstone, the Princes of Manipur, +Thangal Major, the European Officers in Kohima, etc.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 157.</i></p> +</div> +<p>It appeared from what Mr. Cawley told me, that on the 14th of +October, Mr. Damant had gone to Konoma from Jotsoma, to try and enforce +some demands he had made. He had been warned several times that the +Merema Clan of Konoma meant mischief, and several Nagas had implored +him not to go, and finding him deaf to their entreaties, begged him to +go through the friendly Semema Clan’s quarter of the village. +However, he insisted on having his own way, and went to the gate of the +Merema Clan at the top of a steep, narrow path. The <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href="#pb158" name="pb158">158</a>]</span>gate +was closed, and while demanding an entrance, he was shot dead. His men +were massed in rear of him, and a large number were at once shot down, +while the others took to flight. Some of the fugitives reached Kohima +that night, and Mr. Cawley at once, grasping the gravity of the +situation, pulled down one stockade, and dismantled the buildings as +already related, concentrating all his men in the other, and making it +as strong as possible. The neighbouring villages had already risen, and +were sending contingents to attack Kohima.</p> +<p>Mr. Cawley had just time to send a messenger to Mr. Hinde, the +extra-Assistant Commissioner at Woka, a distance of sixty-three miles, +ordering him to come in with the detachment of fifty police under him. +These orders Mr. Hinde most skilfully carried out, by marching only at +night, and on the 19th he reached Kohima, thus strengthening the +garrison and making it more able to hold its own, for the number of the +attacking party now greatly increased.</p> +<p>Most fortunately, owing to the zealous care of Major T. N. Walker, +44th R. L. Infantry, there were some rations in reserve for the troops, +which were shared with the non-combatants and police. These he had +insisted on being collected and stored up, when he paid a visit of +inspection to Kohima some months before. But for this small stock the +place could not have held out for two days, but must inevitably have +fallen, as all supplies were cut off during the progress of the siege. +The water was poisoned by having a human head thrown into it. The Nagas +fired at the stockade continually, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb159" href="#pb159" name="pb159">159</a>]</span>made no regular +assault. They seemed to have tried picking off every man who showed +himself, and starving out the garrison. The quantity of jungle that had +been allowed to remain standing all round afforded them admirable +cover, and, as before stated, they erected another small stockade from +which to fire. This they constantly brought nearer and nearer by moving +the timbers.</p> +<p>At length, the garrison wearied out, entered into negotiations, and +agreed to surrender the stockade, if allowed a free passage to +Samagudting. This fatal arrangement would have been carried into effect +within an hour or two, had not my letter arrived assuring them of help. +What the result would have been no one who knows the Nagas can doubt; +545 headless and naked bodies would have been lying outside the +blockade. Five hundred stands of arms, and 250,000 rounds of ammunition +would have been in possession of the enemy, enough to keep the hills in +a blaze for three years, and to give employment to half-a-dozen +regiments during all that time, and to oblige an expenditure of a +million sterling, to say nothing of valuable lives.<a class="noteref" +id="xd20e2062src" href="#xd20e2062" name="xd20e2062src">6</a></p> +<p>Throughout the siege, Mrs. Damant, and Mrs. Cawley had displayed +much heroism. The first undertook to look after the wounded, and went +to visit them daily, exposed to the enemy’s fire. Mrs. Cawley +took charge of the women and children of <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb160" href="#pb160" name="pb160">160</a>]</span>the sepoys, and +looked after them, keeping them in a sheltered spot. The poor little +children could not understand the situation at all, or why it was that +the Nagas were firing.</p> +<p>The casualties would have been more numerous than they were, but +that the Nagas were careful of the cherished ammunition, and seldom +fired, unless pretty sure of hitting. All the same, the situation was a +very critical one, and not to be judged by people sitting quietly at +home by their firesides. It is certainly a very awful thing, after a +great disaster and massacre, to be shut up in a weak stockade built of +highly inflammable material, and surrounded by 6000 howling savages who +spare no one. In addition to that too, to have the water supply cut +off, and at most ten days’ full provision; for this was what it +amounted to. It must be also remembered that the non-combatants far +out-numbered the combatants, and that the two officers who undertook +the defence were both civilians. Anyhow, the view taken of it by the +defenders is shown by the fact that they were willing to surrender to +the enemy, rather than face the situation and its terrible uncertainty +any longer, as they were quite in doubt as to whether relief was coming +or whether their letters having miscarried they would be left to +perish.</p> +<p>Looking back, after a lapse of fifteen years, and calmly reviewing +the events connected with the siege of Kohima, I think I was right at +the time in describing the defence as a “noble one.” +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb161" href="#pb161" name= +"pb161">161</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1931" href="#xd20e1931src" name="xd20e1931">1</a></span> It will +be seen later on that this rumour was not correct.—<span class= +"sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1948" href="#xd20e1948src" name="xd20e1948">2</a></span> A +different place from Konoma.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1958" href="#xd20e1958src" name="xd20e1958">3</a></span> A +Sikh.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1975" href="#xd20e1975src" name="xd20e1975">4</a></span> The +Jubraj, who afterwards reigned as the Maharajah Soor Chandra Singh, +died in exile; Kotwal Koireng and Thangal Major were hanged in August, +1891, by order of the sentence passed upon them for resisting the +British Government.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e1982" href="#xd20e1982src" name="xd20e1982">5</a></span> In 1891, +the Jubraj, then the ex-Maharajah, brought forward this fact in his +appeal to the British Government, as a reason for his +restoration.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2062" href="#xd20e2062src" name="xd20e2062">6</a></span> The +savage mode in which the Nagas conduct their warfare is vividly +described by a correspondent of the <i>Englishman</i> writing from +Cachar, January 28, 1880, after a raid on the Baladhun Tea Gardens by a +band of the same tribe as those of Konoma. He ends with “The +whole was a horribly sickening scene, and a complete wreck; and such +surely as none but the veriest of devils in human form could have +perpetrated.”—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch18" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XVIII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Returning order and confidence—Arrival of Major +Evans—Arrival of Major Williamson—Keeping open +communication—Attack on Phesama—Visit to +Manipur—General Nation arrives—Join him at +Suchema—Prepare to attack Konoma—Assault of Konoma.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Early on the morning of the 28th, I took out all the +men I could collect and set to work to clear away the jungle in the +neighbourhood of the stockade so as to give no covert to enemies. I +also did my utmost to collect supplies. Kohima, with its twelve hundred +houses, was able to give a little, and I sent to distant villages. I +also sent to the head-man of Konoma to ask for Mr. Damant’s body. +The man at once sent in the head, but said that the body had been +destroyed. A true statement, I have no doubt, as the head is all the +Nagas value, and the body would have been given up instantly had it +existed. His signet ring, and several other little articles were also +sent. The head was buried with due honours, the Manipuri chiefs drawing +up their men and saluting as the funeral procession passed. The Jubraj, +Soor Chandra Singh, spoke very feelingly on the subject.</p> +<p>The watercourse, which formerly supplied the garrison, had been +diverted, and the only other supply had been, as already stated, +poisoned by a head being thrown into it. My first business was to see +that the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href="#pb162" name= +"pb162">162</a>]</span>water communication was restored, to every +one’s comfort. Some of my old acquaintances among the Nagas began +to come in, and there was a great disposition to be friendly.</p> +<p>The next day a sepoy of the 43rd, who had escaped the massacre and +lived in the jungle, was brought in by some friendly Nagas. He was +almost out of his mind, and nearly speechless from terror, and could +not walk, so was carried on the man’s back.</p> +<p>I made up my mind to attack Konoma as soon as I could, and the +people knowing this, tried negotiations with my Manipuri allies. So +great was the fear we inspired that at first I believe I could without +difficulty have imposed more severe terms than were obtained later on +after four months’ fighting. With Asiatics especially, everything +depends on the vigour with which an enterprise is pushed forward. The +Nagas never expecting an attack from the side of Manipur, were at first +paralysed. All the villages were without any but the most rudimentary +defences, in addition to those which nature had given them from their +position; not one of them could have stood against a well-directed +attack.</p> +<p>I was in the midst of my preparations when, on the 30th October, +Major (now Major-General) Evans, of the 43rd Assam Light Infantry, +arrived with two hundred men, who had come with him from Dibroogurh. I +also received a telegram saying that General Nation was coming up with +one thousand men and two mountain-guns, and might be expected on the +9th November. I was also given strict orders to engage in no active +operations till his arrival. These orders I at first disregarded, +feeling the urgent <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href="#pb163" +name="pb163">163</a>]</span>necessity of instant action before the +Nagas had time to recover from their surprise. However, next day the +order was reiterated so strongly, and in the Chief Commissioner’s +name, that, believing that the Government had some special reason for +the order, I accepted it, much to my disappointment, as I felt the +urgent necessity of an immediate advance. Konoma was still unfortified, +and a few days would have sufficed to capture it, and place the Naga +Hills at our feet. As it was, the delay, not till November 9th, but +November 22nd, owing to defective transport arrangements, gave the +enemy time to recover, and when we tardily appeared before Konoma, we +found a scientifically defended fortress, whose capture cost us many +valuable lives. The order, it subsequently appeared, was not issued by +Sir Steuart Bayley,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2100src" href= +"#xd20e2100" name="xd20e2100src">1</a> and was altogether due to a +misapprehension. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href="#pb164" +name="pb164">164</a>]</span></p> +<p>As there was to be no immediate work, I urged Major Evans to take up +his post at Samagudting, where a magazine containing 200,000 rounds of +ammunition was very inefficiently guarded; he, however, left a +subaltern, Lieut. (now Captain) Barrett with me, as I wanted another +officer. On their way, some men of the 43rd had shot two Nagas, one a +relation of the chief of the Hepromah clan of Kohima, a most +unfortunate proceeding, and quite uncalled for, as the men were quietly +working in their fields. I was already sufficiently embarrassed by the +promises made by the garrison to the <i>so-called friendly</i> clans of +Kohima, to induce them to be neutral during the siege, and which I felt +bound to keep, and this additional complication added to my troubles. +People situated as the garrison were should make no promises except in +return for real help.</p> +<p>All this time troops and supplies came pouring in from Manipur in +one long thin stream, and the greatest efforts were made to collect +supplies on the spot. I also forced the unfriendly Chitonoma clan of +Kohima to surrender six rifles they had captured, and to pay a fine of +200 maunds of rice. We had been expecting a force of Kuki irregulars +from Manipur; these now arrived, and I had a talk with the chief, who +said: “Our great desire is to attack <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href="#pb165" name="pb165">165</a>]</span>that +village,” pointing to Kohima, “and to kill every man, +woman, and child in it!” He looked as if he meant it.</p> +<p>One day a cat was caught that had given great trouble stealing +provisions, etc., we all wanted to get rid of it, but Hindoos do not +like having cats killed, and I respected their prejudices when +possible, and there were many Hindoos about us, so I said, “I +won’t have it killed, unless some one wants to eat it.” A +Kuki soon came and asked to be allowed to make a dinner of it, and then +I gave my consent, and our scourge was removed. I once asked a sepoy of +my old regiment why they objected to killing cats. He said, +“People do say that if you kill a cat now you will have to give a +golden cat in exchange in the next world as a punishment, and where are +we to get one?”</p> +<p>To keep open communications, I established Manipuri posts in strong +stockades at all the principal villages on the road to the frontier, +and had daily posts from Manipur. To my great distress, I heard that my +youngest boy, Arthur, was ill, and my wife in much anxiety about him; +but I could not leave to help her.</p> +<p>Our forced inaction had, as I anticipated, been misinterpreted by +the Nagas. Some decisive action was much needed, and I attacked the +hostile Chitonoma clan of Kohima, and destroyed part of their village. +On the 10th, as a party of men were bringing in provisions from +Manipur, they had been attacked by some of the Chitonoma clan in the +valley below our position. I heard the firing, and ran out of the +stockade with a party to drive off the enemy. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166" name="pb166">166</a>]</span></p> +<p>At the gate, a man who had just arrived, put a letter in my hand. I +read it anxiously, it told me that my child was dead. My wife and I had +chosen a spot at Kang-joop-kool where we wished to be buried in case +either of us died, and there she buried him.</p> +<p>We soon cleared out the Chitonoma men, and I found that with the +troops escorting the provisions was Dr. Campbell from Cachar, whose +arrival was very welcome. I remember in connection with him a striking +incident showing the courage of Manipuris in suffering. A man who had +been wounded in an encounter had to have an operation performed on his +arm. Dr. Campbell wanted to give him chloroform as it would be very +painful. But the man refused, saying, “I will not take anything +that intoxicates,” and at once held out his arm and submitted to +the knife without flinching!</p> +<p>Every day the delay in the commencement of active operations made +the Nagas more and more confident, and some vigorous action on our part +was absolutely necessary. I heard from spies that our Manipuri post at +Phesama was about to be attacked by the people of the village, who held +nightly converse with emissaries from Konoma. I therefore determined to +punish Phesama, which was not far from Kohima, and on November 11th, I +sent a party of Manipuris and Kukis who destroyed the village in a +night attack, and killed a large number of people. They brought in +twenty-one women and children as prisoners whom the Manipuris had saved +from the Kukis, who would have spared neither age nor sex had they gone +alone. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb167" href="#pb167" name= +"pb167">167</a>]</span></p> +<p>The next day my old friend Captain Williamson arrived to act as my +assistant, I having been appointed Chief Political Officer with the +Field Force that was being formed. Having now a competent man to leave +in charge, I determined to go to Manipur for a few days, and marched to +Mythephum on the 13th, and rode thence on the 14th to Manipur, +accomplishing the whole distance of over 100 miles in thirty-one and a +half hours. I stayed one day in Manipur and then returned, reaching +Kohima on the 17th.</p> +<p>On November 20th, General Nation having arrived at Suchema, ten +miles from Kohima, Williamson and I left to join him. We were fired at +on the road, but got in safely and found all well and in good spirits. +The troops consisted of 43rd and 44th Assam Light Infantry and two +seven-pound mountain-guns under Lieut. Mansel, R.A. Lieut. (now Major) +Raban, R.E., was engineer-officer and Deputy Surgeon-General (now +Surgeon-General, C.B.) De Renzy was in charge of the Medical +Department. Major Cock, a well-known soldier and sportsman, was Brigade +Major.</p> +<p>On the 21st, the guns arrived on elephants, and feeling sure that no +proper carriage could have been provided for their transport, I had +taken the precaution to bring one hundred Kuki coolies to carry them. +The assault was to be next day. Mozuma remained neutral, and even gave +us a few coolies and guides.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2138src" href= +"#xd20e2138" name="xd20e2138src">2</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb168" href="#pb168" name="pb168">168</a>]</span></p> +<p>How well I remember the night of the 21st. Williamson and I dined +with the General and all the staff, and poor Cock, great on all +sporting subjects, told us in the most animated way, stories of whaling +adventures when he was on leave at the Cape. He warmed to his subject +and greatly interested us; he was a fine gaunt man of over six feet in +height, and great strength and ready for any enterprise; some of the +Mozuma Nagas knew him and liked him as they had, years before, been on +shooting expeditions with him in the Nowgong jungles. Besides this we +had a surgical address from Dr. De Renzy, who told us what to do if any +of us were wounded. How we all laughed over it, he joining us. I knew +we should have some hard fighting, but we all counted on carrying +everything before us with a rush, and who is there who expects to be +wounded? We are ready for it if it comes, but we all think that we are +to be the exception. It is as well that it is so.</p> +<p>We were under arms at 4.30 <span class="sc">A.M.</span> on the 22nd. +The first party consisting of two companies of the 43rd Assam Light +Infantry and twenty-eight Naga Hills Police, under Major Evans and +Lieut. Barrett, conducted by Captain Williamson, who knew the country, +were directed to proceed to the rear of Konoma and occupy the saddle +connecting the spur on which it is built with the main road, so as to +cut off the line of retreat.</p> +<p>At 7.30 <span class="sc">A.M.</span>, the remaining portion of the +force <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb169" href="#pb169" name= +"pb169">169</a>]</span>marched off. We all went together to the Mozuma +Hill, where Lieut. Raban, R.E., was detached with part of a rocket +battery, to take up a position on the hillside and open fire on Konoma, +simultaneously with the guns. A small force was left in Suchema, to +which, on my own responsibility, I added one hundred and ten Kuki +irregulars, as I thought it dangerously small for a place containing +all our stores and reserve ammunition. At the General’s request, +I had posted a force of two hundred men in a valley to intercept +fugitives, and cut them off from Jotsuma.</p> +<p>After leaving Lieut. Raban, we crossed the valley dividing Mozuma +and Konoma, and when half-way between the hills, Lieut. Ridgeway (now +Colonel Ridgeway, V.C.) was sent with a company of the 44th to skirmish +up to the Konoma hill. The main body with the guns then gradually +ascended to the Government Road. Just before reaching it, we found a +headless Aryan corpse in a stream, it was probably that of a sepoy of +the 43rd, who formed part of Mr. Damant’s ill-fated +expedition.</p> +<p>After going for a short distance along the road, we found a place up +which the guns could go, and a party of fifty men under Lieut. +Henderson, 44th Assam Light Infantry, was sent ahead to skirmish up the +hillside, the guns carried by my coolies following with the General and +his Staff, including myself. As we ascended the hill, Colonel Nuttall, +with the remainder of the 44th, exclusive of the gun escort, proceeded +along the road, crossing the small valley that divides the Konoma hill +from the ridge of the Basoma hill which we were ascending, a few +hundred <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb170" href="#pb170" name= +"pb170">170</a>]</span>yards from where it joins the main valley, and +halted at the foot. After incredible labour, we succeeded in getting +the guns into position at about 1200 yards distance from the highest +point of Konoma, and at once opened fire, while Lieut. Raban did the +same with his rockets which, however, for the most part fell short over +the heads of Lieut. Ridgeway’s party, though once two struck the +village. On being signalled, Lieut. Raban withdrew his rockets and +joined us. Meanwhile, the guns had made little impression on the +people, and none on the stone forts of Konoma, but the 44th were +advancing gallantly to the attack up the steep ascent to the village, a +brisk fire being kept up on both sides.</p> +<p>At about 2.30, the position of the guns was changed, and they were +advanced to within eight hundred yards of the works, here one of my gun +coolies was wounded by a shot from the village. The change of position +had little effect, and Lieutenant Henderson’s party which had +skirmished along the hillside, effectually prevented the enemy from +evacuating his strong position.</p> +<p>At this time we saw a body of men on the ridge above Konoma, and a +gun and rocket fire was opened on them, but speedily stopped as the +regimental call of the 43rd sounding in the distance, followed by a +close observation with our glasses, led us to the conclusion that it +was the party with Captain Williamson and not the enemy who occupied +the point at which we had directed our fire. Subsequently it was +discovered that the stockade there had been captured and occupied by +the party of the 43rd. After firing a few shots from our new +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb171" href="#pb171" name= +"pb171">171</a>]</span>position, and imagining that the force under +Colonel Nuttall was in full possession of the hill we unlimbered, and, +crossing the small valley before mentioned, we followed Mr. +Damant’s path up the hill, entering the village by the gate where +he met his death. As we neared the place where we had last seen Colonel +Nuttall’s party, ominous sights met our eyes, dead bodies here +and there and men badly wounded, while sepoys left in charge of the +latter told us that the Nagas were still holding out in the upper +forts. After advancing a few paces further we had to pick our way over +ground studded with pangees,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2171src" href= +"#xd20e2171" name="xd20e2171src">3</a> and covered with thorns and +bamboo and cane entanglements, exposed to the fire of the enemy, and +passing the bodies of several Nagas we ascended a kind of staircase, +and after again passing under the Naga fire climbed up a <span class= +"corr" id="xd20e2174" title= +"Source: perpenpicular">perpendicular</span> stone wall and found +ourselves in a small tower, which, with the adjoining work, was held by +a small party of the 44th. I asked Colonel Nuttall where all his men +were, and he pointed to the handful around him and said, “These +are all.” The situation was indeed a desperate one, and I felt +that without some immediate action our power in the Naga Hills for the +moment trembled in the balance. The needed action was taken as the guns +had now arrived under a heavy fire, and they opened on the upper forts +at a distance of eighty to one hundred yards, Lieutenant Mansel and his +three European bombardiers pointing them, fully exposed to the fire of +the enemy. I strongly urged on the General the necessity of making an +attempt to dislodge him <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb172" href= +"#pb172" name="pb172">172</a>]</span>before nightfall, and he was about +to lead out a party to the attack when it was deemed more prudent to +try the guns from another point first. After a series of rounds with +such heavy charges that the guns were upset at every shot, the order +for the assault was given, and we all rushed out in two parties, led by +nine officers, viz., General Nation, Colonel Nuttall, Major Cock, Major +Walker, Lieutenant Ridgeway, Lieutenant Raban, Lieutenant Boileau, +Lieutenant Forbes, and myself, with all the men we could collect. The +party I was with, which included the general, Colonel Nuttall, and +Major Cock, attempted to scale the front face of the fort, the other +the left, <i>i.e.</i>, on our right. The right column of attack led by +Ridgeway and Forbes advanced splendidly; I seem to hear to this day +Ridgeway’s shout of “Chulleao,” <i>i.e.</i>, +“Come along,” to his men as he dashed to the front, and I +saw him mounting the parapet.</p> +<p>The Nagas met us with a heavy fire and showers of spears and stones. +One of the spears struck Forbes, and Ridgeway was badly wounded in the +left shoulder by a shot fired at ten paces, and Nir Beer Sai, a gallant +subadar, shot dead. My faithful orderly, Narain Singh, was also killed. +Unfortunately we had no force to support the assaulting parties and the +men began to retire. While this was doing on the right, our column, the +left, was scaling an almost perpendicular wall in front but +unsuccessfully, as those of us not killed were pushed back by showers +of falling stones and earth, and as we alighted at a lower level the +remnants of the right column who were retiring met us. I tried to +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb173" href="#pb173" name= +"pb173">173</a>]</span>rally them, but I was a stranger to them and it +was no use. Lieutenant Raban was equally unsuccessful, the men had +acted gallantly, but our party was too small, and as I had before +predicted the fire was concentrated on the European officers. Major +Cock walked back leisurely to get under cover, and just before he +reached it turned round to take a parting shot. I saw him thus far, and +immediately after heard that he had been shot. Seeing that our only +chance of safety lay in a retreat, I shouted to Mansel to open an +artillery fire over our heads which he did, this saved us. In another +minute, the general, Colonel Nuttall, myself and five sepoys were the +only men left. I suggested to the former that we had better go too and +retire, which we did over the embers of a burning house.</p> +<p>As I retired with the General we found Major Cock mortally wounded, +laid under cover in a sheltered spot; a little farther on under a heavy +fire we met Lieutenant Boileau bringing out a stretcher for him. As +Cock was being carried in, a bearer was shot dead, and Dr. Campbell +took his place and brought him into hospital.</p> +<p>It was a strange situation, as in our retreat we were alternately +exposed to a fire, and quite sheltered. Luckily the place selected for +a hospital was safe, and there a sad sight met my eyes. In the short +period that elapsed between the commencement of the assault and my +return, the hospital had been filled. Young Forbes was on his back, +pale as a sheet, but cheerful. Ridgeway flushed with the glow of battle +on him. “Certamis gaudia,” I said, “I hope you are +not much hurt.” “Only my <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb174" href="#pb174" name="pb174">174</a>]</span>shoulder +smashed,” he said. Colonel Nuttall was slightly wounded, making +four out of nine Europeans. Besides these were men of the 44th of all +ranks, some almost insensible, others in great pain, some composed, +others despondent. Outside lay a heap of dead. Twenty-five per cent. of +the native ranks had fallen, killed or wounded. Some of my gun coolies +were among the latter, besides one or two killed.</p> +<p>I remember a wounded Kuki who was supporting himself by leaning +against a great vat of Naga beer prepared to refresh the defenders of +the fortress, and by him lay a dead Naga. The Kuki had a dao (sword) in +his hand, and every now and then he fortified himself with a deep +draught of the grateful fluid, and thus strengthened made a savage cut +at the body of his foe.</p> +<p>We had captured all but the highest forts, and a renewed attack with +our small numbers was out of the question, as night was closing in, and +we were very anxious as to the safety of our detached parties under +Evans, Macgregor, and Henderson.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2200src" +href="#xd20e2200" name="xd20e2200src">4</a></p> +<p>It was determined to remain where we were for the night, and +Lieutenant Raban represented to the General the necessity of fortifying +our position. This duty he and Mansel and I undertook, I bringing my +Kuki coolies to the work, which we accomplished by 7 <span class= +"sc">P.M.</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb175" href="#pb175" +name="pb175">175</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2100" href="#xd20e2100src" name="xd20e2100">1</a></span> The +order came in a telegram purporting to be from the Chief Commissioner, +and by whom really transmitted is a mystery. The Deputy-Assistant +Quartermaster General’s Report of this Naga Hill Expedition +states, that after Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone’s Kuki levies had +attacked Phesama, and killed about two hundred of the enemy in +consequence of the loss of some of their own men from an assault from +this village, the Manipuri army performed no other operation in this +war (except as coolies and bringing in supplies, and in this respect +they were invaluable). But he adds, “Colonel Johnstone, it is +understood, was anxious to attack Konoma on his own account without +waiting for General Nation and the troops.” Colonel Johnstone +explained in a memorandum that no arrangements had been made by the +military authorities for the carriage of the guns, and that up to the +evening before the attack on Konoma he had received no request for +coolies, but foreseeing some neglect of this kind he had kept over one +hundred reliable Manipuris for the work, and without them the guns +could not have gone into action. As to the rest of his levy, they had +lost three hundred men by sickness, and like all irregulars, had been +injured by the long delay and enforced idleness. They had also been +already fired upon by our troops in mistake for Nagas, and he feared +some unfortunate complication if he brought them again to the front. +But one hundred and fifty at the request of General Nation were posted +in the valley to intercept fugitives, and they did what they were told. +Another force was also left to help to protect the camp at Suchema. +Colonel Johnstone therein states that he felt confident he could have +captured Konoma with his Manipuris alone, directly after the relief of +Kohima. The Konoma men, in fact, offered to submit on harsher terms to +themselves to Colonel Johnstone than were afterwards wrested from them +by General Nation with the loss of valuable lives, and at a heavy +pecuniary cost.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2138" href="#xd20e2138src" name="xd20e2138">2</a></span> I also +heard from an old Mozuma friend, Lotojé, that the enemy intended +to concentrate all his fire on the officers, so as to render the men +helpless. I told this to the General and Major Cock, and strongly +advised them to do as I did, and cover their white helmets with blue +turbans to render themselves less conspicuous, urging the +inadvisability of needlessly rendering themselves marks for the +enemy’s fire. The General refused, and Cock said he should do as +the General did, so I said no more; admiring their dogged courage, but +wishing that they would take advice.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2171" href="#xd20e2171src" name="xd20e2171">3</a></span> Sharp +stakes of bamboo hardened in the fire.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2200" href="#xd20e2200src" name="xd20e2200">4</a></span> The +official medical report of this campaign gives a deplorable account of +the sufferings of the wounded, and the gangrene which affected the +wounds in consequence of the extremely insanitary condition of the Naga +villages and stockades, where the Naga warriors had been congregated +for weeks expecting the attack—an additional reason why the +immediate pursuit into their strongholds which Colonel Johnstone had +recommended after the relief of Kohima should have been carried +out—failing the acceptance of the harsh terms of peace. See +<i>ante</i>.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch19" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XIX.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Konoma evacuated—Journey to Suchema for +provisions and ammunition, and return—We march to Suchema with +General—Visit Manipur—Very ill—Meet Sir Steuart +Bayley in Cachar—His visit to Manipur—Grand +reception—Star of India—Chussad attack on +Chingsow—March to Kohima and back—Reflections on +Maharajah’s services—Naga Hills campaign overshadowed by +Afghan War.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">General Nation had intended to capture Konoma and +return to Suchema at once, but the stout resistance offered by the +Nagas upset all calculations, and we were thus stranded without warm +clothing or provisions on a bleak spot, 5000 or 6000 feet above the +sea. I sent off some of my Naga emissaries, and induced the neutral men +of Mozuma to go to Suchema and bring the bedding of the wounded men and +some food which was done. With difficulty we got enough water to drink, +but there was none for washing, and when at last we sat down on the +ground to eat our frugal meal, the doctors had to eat with hands +covered with blood, indeed, none of our hands were very presentable. At +last, to our great relief, our <span class="corr" id="xd20e2222" title= +"Source: detatched">detached</span> parties returned one by one. +Lieutenant (now Colonel<span class="corr" id="xd20e2225" title= +"Not in source">)</span> C. R. <span class="corr" id="xd20e2228" title= +"Source: Macregor">Macgregor</span>, D.S.O.<a id="xd20e2231" name= +"xd20e2231"></a>, a most gallant and capable officer, had been out all +day with only fifteen men, and inflicted some injury on the Nagas. He +was Quartermaster-General of the force, and did good service +throughout. The accession of numbers was a great relief, as we now +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb176" href="#pb176" name= +"pb176">176</a>]</span>had the means of renewing the attack next day, +but ammunition and supplies were required, and Williamson and I +volunteered to go to Suchema for them next day. The night was very +cold, but we managed to sleep all huddled up together, the dead lying +all round us.</p> +<p>Early next morning, Williamson and I started with all our coolies +and an escort of fifty men. We saw no signs of the enemy, but came +across several men of the 43rd who had strayed away from their +detachments in the dark and hidden in the jungles. At Suchema we found +all right, but before we got there, we saw our flag flying over Konoma, +showing, as I had expected, that it had been evacuated during the +night. This event immediately made our neutral friends of Mozuma, our +allies, and they gave us hearty assistance, and we took back an ample +supply of provisions. The Mozuma people told us that the Konoma men had +never contemplated the possibility of being driven out, and that they +had stored up 2000 maunds of rice which had fallen into our hands.</p> +<p>The enemy had retired into some fortified stockades called Chukka on +the main range to their rear, a most difficult position to attack. I +offered the General to carry the guns into position for him if he cared +to assault them, but our loss, especially in officers, had been so +great that he declined, and probably he was right, as the risk was very +great if the enemy stood his ground, so the General decided to await +reinforcements. All the same it was to be regretted that we were unable +to deliver two or three blows in rapid succession. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb177" href="#pb177" name="pb177">177</a>]</span></p> +<p>We left a party at Konoma and marched to Suchema with the wounded, +Ridgeway, with great courage, marching all the way on foot, rather than +endure the shaking of an improvised litter. On the 27th, I joined a +force, with which we attacked and destroyed the unfriendly portion of +Jotsuma, a large and powerful village, and on the 29th, as there was +nothing else to do, made a rapid journey to Manipur with Lieutenant +Raban, that he might survey the road as I wanted the trace for a cart +road cut. We returned on December 4th.</p> +<p>On December 6th, Williamson and I started for Golaghat, to meet Sir +Steuart Bayley. At Samagudting I had a perfect ovation, all the village +turning out to see me, and greeting me warmly as an old acquaintance. +Alas! many were suffering from a disease we called Naga sores, and +several had died. The once lovely place looked desolate and miserable, +almost all the fine trees had been ruthlessly cut down by one of my +successors, in a panic, lest they should afford cover for hostile +Nagas. The place looked so sad that I could not bear to stay there as I +had intended, and left again almost directly. We reached Golaghat on +December 9th, and stayed with the Chief Commissioner and started again +on the 12th, and rode fifty-five miles into Dimapur, but I was not at +all well, indeed had been much the reverse for several days, bad food +and hard work having upset me. We reached Suchema on the 14th.</p> +<p>Overtures for submission were made by some of the hostile villages, +but I said that an unconditional surrender of all fire-arms must +precede any negotiations. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb178" href= +"#pb178" name="pb178">178</a>]</span>Meanwhile, I grew daily worse, and +the doctors told me that I must go to Manipur for change and quiet, +which, as there was nothing to be done just then, I did, leaving +Captain Williamson in charge of the Political Department.</p> +<p>I reached Manipur on December 22nd, and a day or two’s rest +did me so much good that I left again on the 27th, and rode to +Mythephum, sixty miles, but was taken ill on the road, and suffered +most dreadful pain for the last twenty miles, arriving completely +prostrated. The next day, being worse, I sent a message to Manipur, +asking for the native doctor and a litter to be sent to meet me, while +I got back as far as Mayang Khang on my pony, though hardly able to sit +upright. I halted here for the night, but had no sleep, and in the +morning started in a rough litter, but the shaking increased the pain, +so that I again tried riding till I reached Kong-nang-pokhee, twenty +miles from Manipur, where, to my intense relief, I found my doolai and +our native doctor, Lachman Parshad. I reached Manipur at 11 +<span class="sc">P.M.</span></p> +<p>Next day, December 30th, I was no better, and as the doctor was very +anxious, not understanding my case, which was acute inflammation, my +wife wrote to Dr. O’Brien of the 44th, asking him to come and see +me. I was laid up till January 17th, and only narrowly escaped with +life, my suffering being aggravated by a deficiency of medicine in our +hospital, and a week’s delay in getting it from Cachar. One day I +got out of bed to see Thangal Major on very important business +connected with Konoma, of which some of the inhabitants had tried +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb179" href="#pb179" name= +"pb179">179</a>]</span>to open an intrigue with Manipur. Dr. +O’Brien arrived about the 13th, and left on the 18th, and I was +preparing to follow in a few days, when complications on the Lushai +frontier detained me, and then as the Chief Commissioner was about to +come up <i>en route</i> to the Naga Hills, to present the Maharajah +with the order of the Star of India in recognition of his services, I +waited till I could march up with him.</p> +<p>On January 30th, I heard that the Baladhun tea factory in Cachar had +been attacked, and a European and several coolies killed by the Merema +clan of Konoma. Knowing that Cachar was badly off for troops, I asked +the Durbar to send two hundred men to the frontier, close to the tea +factory, to aid the Cachar authorities, and this was done. On February +6th, I started for Cachar to meet the Chief Commissioner, reaching that +place on the 7th, and marched back with him, arriving at Manipur on +February 20th, where he was received with every demonstration of +respect, the Maharajah turning out with all his court to meet him at +the usual place, and escorting him to the spot where the road turned +off to the Residency.</p> +<p>The Chief Commissioner’s visit gave the greatest satisfaction +to every one in Manipur. He stayed five days, during which he had +several interviews with the Maharajah, and held a grand Durbar, at +which he invested him with the star and badge of a K.C.S.I. He also +attended a review held by the Rajah, besides seeing all the sights of +the place, including a game of polo by picked players. In fact the +visit was a thorough success, and the Manipuris often spoke of it with +pleasure years afterwards. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb180" href= +"#pb180" name="pb180">180</a>]</span></p> +<p>Just before we started for the Naga Hills, I received the news of an +attack by the Chussad Kukis on the Tankhool village of Chingsow, to the +north-east of Manipur, forty-five people were said to have been killed +or carried off; and the excitement was all the greater from the belief +entertained that the attack had been instigated by the Burmese. I +determined, after consultation with Sir Steuart Bayley, to proceed to +the spot myself, and investigate the whole affair; and it was, +therefore, decided that, after escorting him to Kohima, I should return +to Manipur and take up the case. We marched to Kohima, which we reached +on March 1st, and on the 2nd, I returned to Mao, <i>en route</i> to +Manipur, where I arrived on March 5th.</p> +<p>Before leaving the subject of the <span class="corr" id="xd20e2273" +title="Source: Nago">Naga</span> Hills, I ought to say, that, it is +difficult to over-estimate our obligation to the Maharajah, for his +loyal conduct during the insurrection and subsequent troubles. +According to his own belief, we had deprived him of territory belonging +to him, and which he had been allowed to claim as his own. The Nagas +asked him to help them, and promised to become his feudatories, if only +he would not act against them. The temptation must have been strong, to +at least serve us as we deserved, by leaving us in the lurch to get out +of the mess, as best as we could. Instead of this, Chandra Kirtee Singh +loyally and cheerfully placed his resources at our disposal, and +certainly by enabling me to march to its relief, prevented the fall of +Kohima, and the disastrous results which would have inevitably +followed. It is grievous to think that his son, the then Jubraj Soor +Chandra Singh, who served <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb181" href= +"#pb181" name="pb181">181</a>]</span>us so well, was allowed to die in +exile, and that Thangal Major died on the scaffold: while many others +who accompanied the expedition, were transported as criminals, across +the dreaded “black water” to the Andamans.</p> +<p>It was the misfortune of those engaged in the Naga Hills expedition, +that they were overshadowed, and their gallant deeds almost ignored, by +the Afghan war then in progress. Some of the English papers imagined +that the operations in the Naga Hills were included in it, and the +Government of India, which has only eyes for the North-West Frontier, +showed little desire to recognise the hard work, and good service +rendered on its eastern border, amidst difficulties far greater than +those which beset our troops in Afghanistan. The force engaged, hoped +that the capture of Konoma, which was achieved after such hard fighting +and at so great a loss, would have been at least recognised by some +special decoration, but this hope was disappointed, apparently for no +other reason, than that the troops engaged, fought in the east, and not +in the west of India. Kaye, the historian, once said that, “the +countries to the east of the Bay of Bengal, were the grave of +fame.” Well did the Naga Hills campaign, prove the truth of his +words. A bronze star was the reward of a bloodless march from Kabul to +Kandahar, but not even a clasp could be spared to commemorate the +capture of Konoma, and those who never saw a shot fired, shared the +medal awarded equally with those who fought and bled in that bloody +fight. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb182" href="#pb182" name= +"pb182">182</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch20" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XX.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad +outrage—Interesting country—Rhododendrons—Splendid +forest—Chingsow and the murder—Chattik—March back +across the hills.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I had not fully recovered my strength after my +illness, and besides there was much to do, so I did not start for +Chingsow till the 11th, when I marched to Lairen, twenty-five miles +distant. Near a place called Susa Kameng, where the hills approach each +other very closely, from either side of the valley, a rampart connects +them. It was built in former days as a barrier against the Tankhools, +when they were the scourge of the neighbourhood.</p> +<p>After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and +then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended +into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those +terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home +of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent, +and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I found +Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during my +march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The next +day we went on to Noong-suong-kong <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb183" +href="#pb183" name="pb183">183</a>]</span>over a most lovely country, +often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most +romantic situation; and—remarkable sign of the peace produced by +the rule of Manipur—we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers. +This day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel, +and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day, after +another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland valley, +5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream meandered +through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild pear trees, +covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded, the trees being +chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.</p> +<p>On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village +I saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at +5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the +pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The +cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick +great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills +round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was the +severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from the +highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of hills +and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I have +ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled +trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these +trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp, +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb184" href="#pb184" name= +"pb184">184</a>]</span>had time allowed, but the difficulty of +obtaining water limits one’s halting place in the hills. +Everywhere on the western face of the hills pines seemed to stop at +5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!</p> +<p>Four villages, in the Tankhool country, apparently monopolised the +bulk of the cloth manufactures, and different tribal patterns were made +to suit the purchaser. Some of these cloths are very handsome and +strong, and calculated to wear for a long time. But the superior energy +of the Manipuris in cloth weaving, has greatly injured the trade in the +hill villages; in the same way that Manchester and Paisley have injured +the weaving trade in most of India. The Manipuris supply a fair pattern +of the different tribal cloths at a lower price, and thus manage to +undersell those of native manufacture, but the quality is not nearly so +good as in the original. The prices in the hills are decidedly high. +Every village has its blacksmith, but some devote themselves more +especially to ironwork.</p> +<p>We reached Chingsow on March 15th, after a march of twelve miles +that morning, chiefly made up of ascents and descents, some being so +steep that it was with difficulty that we got along. Finally, after a +direct ascent of 4980 feet, followed by a descent of 3600 feet, we +reached our encamping ground below the village which towered above us. +The next day I investigated the case, and found that, as reported, +twenty males and twenty-five females had been murdered. I saw the fresh +graves and dug up one as evidence, the bodies contained in it were +those of a mother and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb185" href= +"#pb185" name="pb185">185</a>]</span>child, and presented a frightful +spectacle with half of the heads cut off, including the scalp, and both +in an advanced state of decomposition. It appeared that a demand has +been made by Tonghoo, the Chussad Chief, that the Chingsow Nagas should +submit to him and pay tribute, but they, of course, refused as subjects +of Manipur. They heard of nothing more till they were attacked on the +morning of the fatal day. The people had just begun to stir, and some +had lighted their fires, when suddenly they heard the fire of musketry +at the entrance of the village. They ran out of their houses, and the +Chussads fell upon them, and the massacre commenced. The assailants +were about fifty in number, and the people in their terror were driven +in all directions, and slaughtered, some being shot and others being +cut down by daos.</p> +<p>While this was going on, some of the men assembled with spears and +advanced on the Chussads, who then retreated firing the village, and +carrying off all the pigs, spears and iron hoes they could lay hands +on. Five Nagas of Chattik came with the Chussads and were recognised. +The village of Chingsow was most strongly situated, even more so than +Konoma, indeed, the same might be said of many villages in that part of +the country, and is entered by long winding paths cut through the rock, +by which only one man at a time could pass, so that well defended it +would be difficult to take. But the fact was that Manipur having put a +stop to blood feuds among its subjects, had rather placed them at a +disadvantage, as they were not quite as well prepared for an attack as +formerly. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb186" href="#pb186" name= +"pb186">186</a>]</span></p> +<p>After leaving Chingsow, we marched through a pretty country, part of +our way lying along a high ridge with a precipice on one side, and a +deep ravine on the other, and we finally halted in a stream far below +our last camp. Every march was a succession of steep ascents and then +equally steep descents into narrow valleys. It was most exasperating +sometimes to see how needlessly an ascent was made over a high ridge, +when a path of no greater length could have been made round it.</p> +<p>On the 17th, I encamped beside a river where I was visited by many +Tankhools, including children, who crowded round me fearlessly. The +people were a fine race, but almost inconceivably dirty, some of them +seemed grimed with the dirt of years. There were plenty of fine pieces +of terrace cultivation. It was very curious to find that among the +Tankhools there seemed to be a universal belief that they originally +sprung from the “Mahawullee,” or sacred grove in +Manipur.</p> +<p>On March 18th, we reached Chattik, a fine village on a ridge from +which we had a splendid view, including the Chussad villages. As I had +done all I had come for, and wished to see a new country, I determined +to march back straight to Manipur across the hills. It was not the +beaten track which lay by Kongal Tannah, and no one in my camp knew it, +but I felt sure it could be found, and old Bularam Singh cheerfully +agreed. We started on the 19th, and after passing a village that had +been plundered by the Chussads, we halted after a sixteen-mile march, +during which I was badly hurt by a bamboo which <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb187" href="#pb187" name= +"pb187">187</a>]</span>pierced my leg. On the march we passed some +terrible-looking pits, 12 feet deep, and about 3 or 3½ feet wide +with sharp stakes at the bottom. They are meant to catch enemies on the +war path, or deer, and are placed in the centre of the roads and +covered lightly. God help the poor man or animal who is impaled in +these horrible pits and dies in agony, for no one else will.</p> +<p>On the 20th, we halted at Pong, after an interesting but tiring +march, during which we crossed the summit of a high range at 7100 feet, +covered with forest, and small and very solid bamboos. The descent was +through a noble pine forest with trees that must have been two hundred +feet high. It rained heavily, and when we halted I should have had a +miserable night of it but for the care of the Manipuris, who built me a +comfortable hut, and went away smiling and cheerful to cook their food, +though they looked half drowned. Never did I see men work better under +difficulties. Owing to them I had as nice a resting-place as a man on +the march could want, and an hour after I had an excellent dinner.</p> +<p>We started early next morning, and made a gradual ascent till we +reached Hoondoong, a Tankhool village 5200 feet above the sea. After +that our road lay through a splendid fir forest, with here and there an +avenue of oaks, but from time to time we came across large tracts of +forest that had been laid low and burned. At Hoondoong I saw some +curious graves, high mounds shaped like a large <b>H</b>.</p> +<p>They were outside the village. There were also <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb188" href="#pb188" name="pb188">188</a>]</span>more +and better-looking women and children than are to be seen in most +Tankhool villages. The men of the Tankhool race are, in physique, quite +equal to the Angamis.</p> +<p>In the main street of Hoondoong, there were two rows of dead trees +about twenty feet high, planted in front of the houses, and orchids +were growing on them. The people seemed happy and contented under the +rule of Manipur, and their houses were large and commodious +structures.</p> +<p>We reached Eethum Tannah in the valley of Manipur after a terrible +descent, rendered all the more difficult by heavy rain, which made the +narrow path so slippery as to be almost impassable. During the whole of +my long march through a wild country covered with forest I had, with +the exception of the Hoolook monkey (<i>Hylohete</i>) seen no wild +animals, scarcely a bird!</p> +<p>I reached Manipur on March 22nd, having greatly enjoyed my tour in +the hills, and had hardly arrived when <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e2335" title="Source: Thangel">Thangal</span> Major came to see me +and talk about the Chussad business. Soon after I sent to Tonghoo, the +Chussad chief, to demand his submission. He did not come himself, but +sent his brother Yankapo. The Manipuris thought this a grand +opportunity to secure hostages, and begged me to allow the arrest of +him and his followers. I severely rebuked them for making such a +treacherous proposal.</p> +<p>I had several interviews with the young chief and his followers who +spoke Manipuri fluently, and admitted that they were subjects of the +Maharajah. This visit eventually led to a better understanding +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb189" href="#pb189" name= +"pb189">189</a>]</span>with the Chussads, and to the submission of +Tonghoo himself, who subsequently became a peaceable subject. For the +present, however, I had to exact reparation for the attack on Chingsow, +and for some months the affair cost me much anxiety. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb190" href="#pb190" name="pb190">190</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch21" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXI.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Saving a criminal from execution—Konoma men +visit me—A terrible earthquake—Destruction wrought in the +capital—Illness of the Maharajah—Question as to the +succession—Arrival of the Queen’s warrant—Reception +by Maharajah—The Burmese question.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">About this time I heard one morning that a man had +been convicted in concert with a woman of committing a grave offence, +and that the woman had, according to custom, been sentenced to be +exposed in every bazaar in the country, in the way already described. +The man had been sentenced to death, and ordered to Shoogoonoo for +execution. As the offence was not one which our courts would punish +with death, I sent a friendly remonstrance to the Maharajah, and +requested that he might be produced before me, that I might satisfy +myself that he was uninjured. The Maharajah at once consented, and in a +few days the man was brought before me safe and sound, and after having +been exposed as a criminal in several bazaars, he was sentenced with my +approval to a fitting term of imprisonment. I also asked the minister +in future, to let me know for certain when a sentence of death was +passed, that I might advise them, without appearing to the outer world +to interfere, in case they inadvertently condemned a man to capital +punishment, for a crime <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb191" href= +"#pb191" name="pb191">191</a>]</span>which our laws would not approve +of being visited so severely. Realising that my object was to save them +from discredit, they at once consented, and I hinted that I would never +sanction the penalty of death for cow-killing.</p> +<p>As I have stated, it had been almost always the custom to refer +death sentences to me. Often and often when I made a remonstrance to +the ministers about any contemplated action of which I disapproved, I +was told that I misapprehended the state of things, and that nothing of +the kind was intended. Of course, I let them down easily, and appeared +satisfied with their assurances. However, neither party was deceived, +they accepted my strong hint in a friendly spirit, and knew well that I +took their denial as a mere matter of form. The result was what I cared +for, and it was generally achieved without friction.</p> +<p>One of the most unpleasant parts of my duty was the perpetual +necessity of saying “No” to the ministers. My great object +was to be continually building up our prestige. Colonel McCulloch had +said to me, “Never make any concession to the Manipuris without +an equivalent,” and it is inconceivable how many times in our +daily intercourse I had to refuse little apparently insignificant, but +really insidious requests. The struggle on behalf of native British +subjects was long kept up, but in the end I gained my point, and their +rights and privileges were fully recognised.</p> +<p>Early in June, some men of the Merema clan of Konoma who were +fugitives in a very wild part of the hills of Manipur bordering on the +Naga Hills, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb192" href="#pb192" name= +"pb192">192</a>]</span>came to me, making a piteous appeal for mercy, +saying they would have nothing to do with the Naga Hills officials, but +came to me as their old friend and master in the days when I was at +Samagudting. As they came in trusting to my honour, I would not have +them arrested, but sent them away, telling them that nothing but good +and loyal conduct on their part could win my esteem, and that they must +make their submission and deliver up Mr. Damant’s murderers to +the Political Officer in the Naga Hills, before I consented to deal +with them. I also gave orders to the Manipuri troops on the frontier, +to act with the utmost vigour against all Konoma men found within the +territory of Manipur.</p> +<p>Soon after some Lushais visited me, and we settled up a +long-standing dispute between them and Manipur.</p> +<p>The Konoma men continued to give much trouble, and to keep some +check on them, I refused at last to allow any to enter Manipur, except +by the Mao Tannah, and furnished with a pass from the Political +Officer, Colonel Michell. I also arrested one of the supposed +murderers, but the evidence against him was not considered quite +satisfactory.</p> +<p>On the morning of June 30th, at 4.45, when we were at Kang-joop-kool +there was a violent earthquake, the oscillations continuing with great +force from north to south, and <i>apparently</i> in a less degree from +east to west for some minutes. Plaster was shaken from the walls, and +crockery and bottles thrown down, and furniture upset. Locked doors +were flung open and the whole house, built of wood and bamboo, shaken +as by a giant hand. Two Naga <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb193" href= +"#pb193" name="pb193">193</a>]</span>girls sleeping in my +children’s room next to the one my wife and I occupied, sprang up +and ran outside, my two boys, not realising what was up, seemed to +think it a good joke. We all got up and hurried on our things to be +ready for an emergency, but I soon saw that all present danger was +over. At 8.50 <span class="sc">A.M.</span>, there was another sharp +shock, and again about 2 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, besides several +slighter ones.</p> +<p>In the valley, and especially at the capital, the shocks were of the +utmost violence and the earthquake said to be the worst known with the +exception of the terrible one of January 1869. Many houses built of +wood and bamboo were levelled with the ground, the ruins at Langthabal +greatly injured, and a peepul tree growing over a picturesque old +temple torn off. The old Residency was greatly injured, part being +thrown down, and the fireplace and chimney shaken into fragments, but +still, strange to say, standing. Some houses in the Residency compound +were rendered useless. The great brick bridge on the Cachar road was +cracked and much damage done. The earth opened in several places. The +new Residency, which was nearly finished, and was built in the old +English half-timbered style, was intact.</p> +<p>During the next few days several more shocks occurred, causing much +alarm among the people, who predicted something still worse. The +earthquake was followed by the severest outbreak of cholera that I had +witnessed since a dreadful epidemic in Assam in 1860. There were many +deaths in the palace, and public business was at a standstill. I was +unable to lay any question before the Durbar, as half <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb194" href="#pb194" name="pb194">194</a>]</span>the +officials were performing the funeral ceremonies of relations. The +great bazaar was closed at sunset, and even then many of the sellers +went home to find their children dead or dying. Everywhere on the banks +of the rivers, and streams, people might be seen performing the funeral +obsequies of relations and lamenting the dead. Amid this trouble, the +attitude of all classes was such as to excite admiration, there were no +cases of sick being deserted and every one appeared calm and +collected.</p> +<p>Later on, the cholera attacked my village of Kang-joop-kool, and ten +per cent. of the population died.</p> +<p>Early in the autumn, the Maharajah was taken ill with an abscess +behind the ear, and great apprehensions were entertained for his life. +The whole capital was for weeks in a state of alarm, fearing a struggle +for the throne in case of his death. The four eldest sons, and also +some members of the family of the late Rajah Nur Singh, had their +followers armed so as to be ready to assert their several claims +immediately the Maharajah died, the former were constantly in +attendance on their father night and day. The Maharajah was himself +very anxious about the conduct of his younger sons. As suffocation +might any moment have terminated the invalid’s life, I made all +necessary plans, with a view to acting promptly, if required, and, in +conjunction with Thangal Major, arranged so as to secure the guns and +bring them over to the Residency the moment that he died. I also +desired the Jubraj (heir apparent) to come over to me at once, in the +event of the death of his father, that I might instantly proclaim him +and give him my support. I had a most <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb195" href="#pb195" name="pb195">195</a>]</span>grateful message from +the Maharajah in reply, as also from the Jubraj, who promised to abide +entirely by my instructions. However, the abscess burst, and the +Maharajah recovered, and though a shot imprudently fired one evening +led to a panic when the bazaar was deserted, things soon settled down +again.</p> +<p>As soon as the Maharajah was again able to transact business, he +begged me to write to the Government of India and request that the +Jubraj should be acknowledged by them as his successor. I did so, at +the same time strongly urging that the guarantee should be extended to +the Jubraj’s children, so as to preclude the possibility of a +disputed succession on his death. The Jubraj earnestly supported this +request, but the Maharajah preferred adhering to the old Manipuri +custom, which really seemed made to encourage strife. If, for instance, +a man had ten sons, they all succeeded one after the other, passing +over the children of the elder ones, but when the last one died, then +his children succeeded as children of the last Rajah, to the exclusion +of all the elder brothers’ children. All the same, if these could +make good their claim by force of arms, they were cheerfully accepted +by the people who were ready to take any scion of Royalty.</p> +<p>The consequence had always been in former days that to prevent +troublesome claims, a man, on ascending the throne, immediately made +every effort to murder all possible competitors. It is obvious that +such a cumbersome system was undesirable, and I held that having once +interfered we ought to set things on a proper and sensible basis, and +that there <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb196" href="#pb196" name= +"pb196">196</a>]</span>was no middle course between this and leaving +the people to themselves. Thangal Major, who always greatly dreaded the +violent and unscrupulous disposition of Kotwal Koireng (afterwards +<span class="corr" id="xd20e2397" title= +"Source: Senapattee">Senaputtee</span>), agreed with me. The Maharajah, +however, with a father’s tenderness for his sons, would not +advocate my proposal, but still, would have gladly accepted it. The +Government of India judged differently, and only sanctioned my proposal +so far as to allow me to say that they would guarantee the +Jubraj’s succession, and maintain him on his throne. This +decision gave great satisfaction.</p> +<p>This year was unpleasantly distinguished by a great deficiency of +rain in the valley, and a corresponding superfluity, though at +irregular intervals, in the hills. For a long time there were +apprehensions of scarcity, while in the hills the rainfall was so heavy +that the Laimetak bridge was washed away and the river rose six feet +above its banks. On one side, a large portion of its pebbly bed was +hollowed out, and much widened, and 80 feet width of solid boulders +carried away. The Eerung rose about 40 feet, and portions of the hill +road were cut away, but the want of steady rain was felt.</p> +<p>By the end of September, the Maharajah was able to transact +business, though, as he was not well enough to visit me, I visited him, +that I might congratulate him on his recovery, and present him with Her +Majesty’s warrant, appointing him a Knight Commander of the Star +of India. The papers bearing the Queen’s signature were received +with a salute of thirty-one guns, and the Maharajah rose to take it +from my hand, and at once placed it <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb197" href="#pb197" name="pb197">197</a>]</span>on his forehead, +making an obeisance. I then made a speech to all assembled, expressing +my satisfaction at the Maharajah’s recovery, and the +gratification it gave me to be the means of conveying the warrant to +him.</p> +<p>Nothing of great importance now occurred, but I was constantly +occupied by the troubled state of the eastern frontier of Manipur where +Sumjok (Thoungdoot) continued to intrigue with the Chussad and +Choomyang Kukis, who were a ceaseless trouble to the Tankhool Nagas, +about Chattik. These intrigues were conducted with a view to gaining +over the latter as subjects. The chief difficulty of Manipur was, that +the boundary had never been properly defined, so neither party had a +good case against the other. Manipur was in possession, but otherwise +everything was unsatisfactory, our failure to settle the Kongal case +having encouraged the Burmese authorities to resistance. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb198" href="#pb198" name="pb198">198</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch22" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">March to Mao and improvement of the +road—Lieutenant Raban—Constant troubles with +Burmah—Visit to Mr. Elliott at Kohima—A tiger hunt made +easy—A perilous adventure—Rose bushes—Brutal conduct +of Prince Koireng—We leave Manipur for England.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">In November, I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills +frontier, and arranged for the improvement of some of the halting +places on the way. I also asked Sir Steuart Bayley, the Chief +Commissioner, to allow Lieutenant Raban, R.E., to visit Manipur, with a +view to laying out the line of a cart road from the Manipur valley to +Mao. This arrangement he sanctioned, and Lieutenant Raban arrived in +Manipur on December 30th, 1880. The line from Sengmai was bad +throughout, and an exceedingly difficult one in many places. Thangal +Major accompanied us, and I had induced the Maharajah to open out a +narrow road, on being supplied with the necessary tools. We carefully +examined the whole of the road in detail, and, after deciding on the +line to adopt, cut the trace. It was a matter requiring great skill and +patience, both of which Lieutenant Raban had. He was very ably seconded +by the Manipuris, whose keen intelligence made them good auxiliaries. +Often the line had to be cut along the face of a cliff, but fortunately +the rock was soft, and the work was accomplished without accident. The +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb199" href="#pb199" name= +"pb199">199</a>]</span>way we turned the head of the Mao river, the +descent to and ascent from which I had so often, so painfully +accomplished, was a great success, and did not materially increase the +distance, as we saved it by striking the main path at different +points.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2419src" href="#xd20e2419" name= +"xd20e2419src">1</a></p> +<p>In the village of Mukhel near which we passed, we saw a pear tree +three or four hundred years old, and greatly venerated by the +villagers. In the same village I saw a Naga cut another man’s +hair with a dao (sword). The operation was performed most dexterously +and neatly, by holding the dao under the hair, and then slightly +tapping the latter with a small piece of wood. The result was that the +hair-cutting was as neatly accomplished as it could have been by the +best London hair-dresser. I asked a fine young Naga why all his tribe +wore a single long tuft of hair at the back? He at once replied, +“To make the girls admire me,” and added that without it, +he should be laughed at. This is the only explanation I ever had of the +curious fact that most of the Naga tribes wear a long tuft behind, like +Hindoos. By the third week in January we had laid out the line of road. +Thangal Major approved of most of it, but said, regarding the piece +between Sengmai and Kaithemahee, “I will cut it as I promised, +but who will ever use it?” I differed from him, as nothing could +exceed the tortuous and hilly nature of the old road, running as it did +across one succession of spurs and deep ravines, one of the most +heart-breaking paths I ever went along. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb200" href="#pb200" name="pb200">200</a>]</span>Within a month of its +completion the old path was entirely deserted.</p> +<p>My health was beginning to break down entirely. I had been very ill +during and immediately after the Naga Hills Expedition, and during the +last march I was laid up one or two days. My wife had long been a +sufferer, but she did not like to leave me, and I did not like to leave +Manipur while the frontier was disturbed and the Kongal case unsettled. +However, now I felt that we both must have change, and our children +also were of an age to go home.</p> +<p>On my return from looking after the road, fresh complications +awaited me. News came from Chattik of the Sumjok (Thoungdoot) +authorities having again caused dissension and joined with another +village in firing on a Manipuri piquet. This had led to reprisals on +the part of the Manipuris, who attacked and drove out the enemy. All +this was done without our relations with Sumjok being anything but +strained, the act of hostility being unauthorised. The ill-defined +nature of the frontier was such, that neither party could be said to be +in the right or wrong. The Kuki, Chussad, and other frontier villages +took advantage of the state of things to plunder the Tankhools, and the +latter in their turn appealed to Manipur.</p> +<p>I felt that, until something was done to set things on a right +footing, I could not leave. Sir Steuart Bayley was about this time +appointed to Hyderabad, which added to my difficulties, as he was +intimately acquainted with the situation, and of course a change in the +administration necessarily means delay. The Burmese authorities, +knowing what I now do, were <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb201" href= +"#pb201" name="pb201">201</a>]</span>always, as I then believed, +favourably inclined to us; the ill-feeling was entirely on the part of +Sumjok, whose Tsawbwa had influence at Mandalay, and was able to +prevent justice being done in the case in which he was so discreditably +concerned. He also took advantage of this influence to carry on the +guerilla warfare he did through the Chussads, who disliked Manipur, on +account of some treacherous behaviour on her part in former years.</p> +<p>As the spring advanced, of course the danger of hostilities became +less. Cæsar said, ”<i lang="la">Omnia bella hieme +requiescunt</i>.” The reverse holds good in India, and on the +eastern frontier the fiercest tribes keep quiet in the rainy +season.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2441src" href="#xd20e2441" name= +"xd20e2441src">2</a></p> +<p>In March, I heard that Mr. (now Sir Charles) Elliott, the new Chief +Commissioner, was about to visit Kohima, where he wished to meet me, +and I set off on my way there, arriving on the 19th, being well +received all along the road by the people of the different villages. I +had a long talk with the Chief Commissioner about the affairs of +Manipur, and the necessity for a survey and delimitation of the +boundary between it and Burmah during the ensuing cold weather, and +then returned. The new road had been opened out to such a width, except +here and there—I was able to ride the whole distance.</p> +<p>The weather was lovely, and the rhododendrons near Mao, and the wild +pears, azaleas, and many other flowering trees along my route, made the +long journey a most pleasant one. Let me say here, while on the subject +of the road, that, notwithstanding all the criticisms passed on it and +predictions of its <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb202" href="#pb202" +name="pb202">202</a>]</span>uselessness, it proved of immense, nay, +incalculable value during the Burmese War of 1885–86, and the sad +troubles of 1891. It was throughout of an easy gradient, never +exceeding one in twenty, and, had a bullock train been established, +might have been used from an early date for conveying produce from +Manipur to the stations of Kohima.</p> +<p>This was my last visit to Kohima, a place fraught with so deep an +interest to me, and so many pleasant and painful associations. I shall +always regret that the site chosen by myself and Major Williamson was +not adopted for the new cantonment, which, with the larger space +available, would have admitted of a greater development than is +possible under present circumstances. Still the place will always +possess an undying interest for me, filled as it is with the memory of +events bearing on my work from the early triumphs of old Ghumbeer +Singh, and my predecessor, Lieut. Gordon, to the day when I marched in +at the head of the relieving party, and heard the fair-haired English +child told by her mother that at last she could have water to +drink!</p> +<p>On my return to Manipur, I intended to have started for England, and +our passages were taken by a steamer leaving in April. But the +unsettled state of the Burmese frontier forced me to stay till the +rains had set in in the hills. During this spring we had a visitor, Mr. +Hume, C.B., the well-known ornithologist, who spent three months in +studying the birds of Manipur, with the result, I believe, that very +few new species were found.</p> +<p>In April, we had a little excitement to vary the monotony of life, +though to me my work was of such <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb203" +href="#pb203" name="pb203">203</a>]</span>never-ending interest, that I +needed nothing of the kind. On April 13th, the Maharajah sent to tell +me that a tiger had been surrounded, and asked me to go out and help to +shoot it. The place was about fourteen miles from the capital, and we +started early and rode off to a spot a few miles from Thobal.</p> +<p>I took my sister and the two boys with me, my wife staying with the +baby. The tiger had, according to Manipuri custom, been first enclosed +by a long net, about eight feet high, and outside this a bamboo +palisading had been erected, on which the platforms were built for the +spectators. The space enclosed was eighty to a hundred yards in +diameter, and contained grass and scrub jungle, and a log of wood tied +to strong ropes was arranged, so that it might be dragged up and down +to drive the tiger out of the covert. As soon as we were all in our +places this rope was vigorously pulled, with the result that a tigress, +followed by two cubs, sprang out with a loud roar. The Jubraj was +present, and took command of the proceedings, courteously asking me +from time to time what I wished done. After the first charge, the tiger +was not very lively, and this being the case, several Manipuris, +contrary to orders, jumped down into the arena with long and heavy +spears in the right hand, and a small forked stick in the left. With +the latter they held up a portion of the net, which had been allowed to +fall on the ground to shield their faces, if necessary, and with the +right hand poised the spear, shouting to irritate the tiger, whom +others in the stockade tried to drive out by throwing stones. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb204" href="#pb204" name= +"pb204">204</a>]</span></p> +<p>Roused by this, the infuriated brute charged in earnest at one of +the men on foot, the latter awaited her with the utmost coolness, and, +as she approached, struck her with the spear; the tiger, however, made +good her charge, but the net stopped her, and she rolled over, and when +released, she retreated. This was repeated, both by the tigress and the +cubs, and after a shot or two, the men on foot attacked them with +spears and finished them off.</p> +<p>The whole scene was a very exciting one and a very fine display of +courage and coolness on the part of the Manipuris.</p> +<p>We did not reach home till 10 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, but the +weather was splendid, not unbearably hot as it would have been in India +so late in the season. The day was a memorable one to the boys, and I +well remember the astonishment they caused when, stopping at Shillong +on their way home, some one jokingly said, “And how many tigers +have you shot?” The boys gravely replied “Three.”</p> +<p>The day was very nearly proving the last to some of us. The two boys +were being carried in a litter, and my sister and I riding on ponies. +On leaving the village where we had halted, we were riding down a +narrow path with only room for one to pass at a time, when, suddenly, I +heard a shout behind me and saw an elephant following me at a great +pace, the mahout (driver) vainly endeavoured to stop him, he had been +frightened by the tiger’s dead body and was quite unmanageable. I +called to my sister, who was in front, to ride at full speed, and I +followed as quickly as her pony would allow. It was a race for life, +as, had the elephant gained on us, I, at least, must <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb205" href="#pb205" name="pb205">205</a>]</span>have +been crushed. Luckily, the mahout recovered his control, and managed to +slacken the pace.</p> +<p>On our way home, we passed bushes of wild roses twenty feet in +diameter and quite impenetrable.</p> +<p>Finally, the tiger was taken to the Maharajah, who had not been well +enough to come, and, next morning, was brought to us and skinned.</p> +<p>I have already alluded to the turbulent character of Kotwal Koireng, +the Maharajah’s fourth son, and now, again, I was to have fresh +evidence of it. Early in May, I heard of his having three men so +severely beaten that one had died, and two were dangerously ill. On +investigation, I found that the men had been tied up and beaten on the +back, it was said, for two hours and slapped on the face at the same +time. I questioned the ministers, and practically there was no defence, +and, as I heard that the Maharajah was enquiring into the matter, I +said no more, beyond a warning that a case of murder must not be passed +over.</p> +<p>The Maharajah handed over the case to the Cherap Court<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e2483src" href="#xd20e2483" name="xd20e2483src">3</a> +for trial, and, as might be expected, they acquitted Kotwal of the +charge of causing death and found him guilty of injuring the other two. +The Maharajah sentenced him to banishment for a year to the island of +Thanga, in the Logtak Lake, and temporary degradation of caste. As a +sentence of two years’ imprisonment had been passed some years +previously in our own territory, for death caused under similar +circumstances, the sentence was not so lenient as might have been +expected. I reported the matter to the Government of India, expressing +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb206" href="#pb206" name= +"pb206">206</a>]</span>my approval of the sentence, under the +circumstances, and my verdict was ratified. I intimated to the Durbar +that, should such a thing occur again, I should insist on his permanent +banishment from Manipur.</p> +<p>This I was prepared to carry out myself if necessary. I should have +liked on this occasion to have procured his banishment, but, in dealing +with Native States that in these matters are practically <span class= +"corr" id="xd20e2491" title="Source: indepedent">independent</span>, it +is not always well to press matters too far. In old days, under our +early political agents, such an offence would have passed unnoticed. It +was a point gained to have the case investigated and adjudicated on by +the Maharajah, and anything approaching to an adequate sentence +inflicted. Since the troubles in Manipur, I have seen it stated that +the sentence was a nominal one; that it certainly was not, the prince +was banished to Thanga, and if he surreptitiously appeared at the +capital, he did not appear in public, and when I left Manipur on long +leave, early in 1882, was still in banishment.</p> +<p>On May 31st, we all left Manipur on our way to England, and my +children bade adieu to a most happy home. It was a sad parting for most +of us, and though my wife’s health and mine urgently required +change, we left the valley with regret, and felt deep sorrow as we took +our last look of it from the adjacent range of hills. We reached Cachar +on June 8th, having halted as much as possible on high ground. The +rivers were in flood, and sometimes there was a little difficulty in +crossing. We left for Shillong on June 9th, and arrived there on the +15th, leaving again on the 21st for Bombay, from which, on July 5th, we +sailed for England. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb207" href="#pb207" +name="pb207">207</a>]</span></p> +<p>While at Shillong we were the guests of the Chief Commissioner, so +that I had an ample opportunity of talking over affairs with him, and +it was finally settled that I was to take Shillong on my way back, and +see Mr. Elliott before leaving, to settle the knotty question of the +boundary between Manipur and Burmah on the spot, in accordance with +orders lately received from the Government of India. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb208" href="#pb208" name="pb208">208</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2419" href="#xd20e2419src" name="xd20e2419">1</a></span> This was +the road along which Colonel Johnstone had marched to relieve Kohima. +The old route from the capital of Manipur to Cachar was easy enough in +comparison.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2441" href="#xd20e2441src" name="xd20e2441">2</a></span> All wars +rest in winter.</p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2483" href="#xd20e2483src" name="xd20e2483">3</a></span> Chief +Court.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch23" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Return to Manipur—Revolution in my +absence—Arrangements for boundary—Survey and +settlement—Start for Kongal—Burmah will not act—We +settle boundary—Report to Government—Return to England.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I was really not fit to undertake any work in India +till my health was re-established, but could not bear to leave the +interests of Manipur in other hands until the boundary was settled. I +felt that I alone had the threads of the whole affair in my hands, and +that I could not honourably leave my post till I had seen Manipur out +of the difficulty. Thus it came that I left England again on September +7th, and my devoted wife, far less fit than I was for the trials of the +long journey, accompanied me, as she would not leave me alone.</p> +<p>We reached Shillong on October 18th, 1881, and, after arranging all +matters connected with the boundary settlement with the Chief +Commissioner, started for Cachar, and reached that place on October +25th, leaving again for Manipur next day, and marching to Jeree +Ghât, where we were met by Thangal Major. We made the usual +marches, and reached Manipur on November 4th, the Jubraj coming out +with a large retinue to meet me at Phoiching, eight miles from the +capital.</p> +<p>While I was away in the month of June, an <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb209" href="#pb209" name= +"pb209">209</a>]</span>attempt at a revolution had occurred, the +standard of revolt having been raised by a man named Eerengha, an +unknown individual, but claiming to be of Royal lineage; such +revolutions were of common occurrence in former days. In Colonel +McCulloch’s time there were eighteen. In this case there was no +result, except that Eerengha and seventeen followers were captured and +executed. The treatment was undoubtedly severe, but not necessarily too +much so, as too great leniency might have led to a repetition, and much +consequent suffering and bloodshed.</p> +<p>I had an interview with the Maharajah, who was ill when I arrived, +as soon as he was well enough; and set to work to make preparations for +our march to the Burmese frontier. I intimated my desire to the +Maharajah that Bularam Singh, and not Thangal Major, should accompany +me, as I wished the last to stay at the capital, and also not to let +him appear to be absolutely indispensable.</p> +<p>I had been appointed Commissioner for settling the boundary with +plenipotentiary powers, and Mr. R. Phayre, C.S., who was in the Burmese +commission, and a good Burmese scholar, was appointed as my assistant. +There was also a survey party under my old friend Colonel Badgley, and +Mr. Ogle, while Lieutenant (now Major, D.S.O.) Dun,<a class="noteref" +id="xd20e2519src" href="#xd20e2519" name="xd20e2519src">1</a> came on +behalf of the Intelligence Department. Mr. Oldham represented the +Geological Survey. Dr. Watt was naturalist and medical officer, while +Captain Angelo, with two hundred men of the 12th Khelat-i-Ghilzie +Regiment, commanded my escort. Mr. Phayre arrived first, and I sent him +off to Tamu to try and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb210" href= +"#pb210" name="pb210">210</a>]</span>smooth over matters with the +Burmese authorities there. Then my old friend Dun came, soon followed +by Dr. Watt, then the survey party arrived, and Captain Angelo with my +escort, and last of all Mr. Oldham. Never had Manipur seen so many +European officers. Some time was required for necessary triangulations +before we could start.</p> +<p>On November 30th, just as the sun was rising, Thangal Major came to +see me, and told me that the Maharajah was very ill and suffering great +pain. While talking, two guns were fired from the palace, when the old +man turned pale, evidently thinking that the Maharajah was dead. A few +minutes after a messenger came to inform us that the guns merely +announced a domestic event, but Thangal Major was nervous and soon took +leave, running away to the palace at a pace that did credit to his +sixty-four years.</p> +<p>On December 1st, Mr. Phayre returned from Tamu, having had a +friendly but unsatisfactory interview with the Phoongyee. The Pagan +Woon had been expected but did not arrive, and the Phoongyee had no +authority to act.</p> +<p>Before starting, the Maharajah visited me in state, and I introduced +all the officers of the party to him. He looked pale and haggard after +his illness, but seemed in good spirits. At last, on December 16th, we +made a move and marched to Thobal-Yaira-pok, and on the following day +to Ingorok, at the foot of the hills. My wife accompanied us, as I was +exceedingly anxious to show the Burmese my peaceful intentions, and +felt sure that the presence of a lady would be a better proof of my +<i>bona fides</i> than any <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb211" href= +"#pb211" name="pb211">211</a>]</span>other I could offer. I heard +before leaving the frontier, that had it not been for this, a rupture +would have been certain while our relations were in a state of great +tension, but the fact of my wife being there, convinced the authorities +in the Kubo valley, that I had no idea of hostile action.</p> +<p>I have already described the route to Kongal, and my escort were +much tried by the severity of the marches over such a rough country. +The men had only lately returned from Afghanistan, and were in fine +condition, but they said that the country between Kandahar and Kabul, +was nothing to that between Ingorok and Kongal Tannah. Every day many +men were footsore, and reached camp, hours after me and my Manipuris. +There can be no doubt that for some reason or other the Eastern hills +and jungles are far more trying than those of the North-West +frontier.</p> +<p>However, at last we arrived safely at Kongal, and though the Burmese +and Sumjok officials, to whom I had written polite letters asking them +to meet me, did not turn up, the survey work went on merrily.</p> +<p>On the 18th, Colonel Badgley, who had come by an independent route +through the hills, joined my camp, and after a conference we came to +the conclusion that at any rate I was right in claiming the country +occupied by the Chussads and Choomyangs, as Manipuri territory. This +was very satisfactory, as the day before I had been much annoyed by the +Sumjok authorities having prevented some of the former <i>fears</i> +coming to pay their respects to me. The attitude of the Sumjok people +was passively hostile, they refused to join in making out the boundary, +and threw every obstacle in the way of <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb212" href="#pb212" name="pb212">212</a>]</span>my doing so, but they +were evidently not inclined to be the first to shed blood.</p> +<p>On December 19th, I sent out two unarmed parties to clear some +ground for survey marks, but one of them was stopped by an armed party +of Sumjok men. On hearing this the next day I ordered the Manipuri +subadar in charge, to halt where he was, and I wrote to the Pagan Woon +to complain, and to ask him to order the <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e2551" title="Source: Tsawbwaa">Tsawbwa</span> to interfere. On +the 21st, I heard that another party had been stopped, and I asked with +regard to them as I had done with the first. That afternoon I received +a civil letter from the Pagan Woon brought by a Bo (captain), saying +that he had orders to conduct negotiations at Tamu, and was not +authorised to come to Kongal Tannah. I wrote a conciliatory reply +urging him to visit us.</p> +<p>On the 22nd of December, I heard that my two parties had been +forcibly driven out by large bodies of armed men. I therefore called in +some Manipuri detachments lest there should be a collision, as the +atmosphere was getting very warlike, and only required a spark to +produce a conflagration. All the population of the Kubo valley were +said to be arming. The Burmese we talked to frankly admitted if there +was a rupture the fault would lie with Mandalay, for not sending a +proper representative to meet me, in accordance with the request of the +Government of India, conveyed months before.</p> +<p>Certainly one false move on our part would have provoked a rupture. +However, everything comes to him who waits. We made every effort to +keep <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb213" href="#pb213" name= +"pb213">213</a>]</span>the peace, and while the authorities were +opposing us we kept up a friendly intercourse with all the individual +Burmese and Shans near us, and I carried on negotiation with the Kukis. +The Chussads were inclined to be friendly, but the Choomyangs were +still under the influence of Sumjok. Fortunately Colonel Badgley found +that he could dispense with the two points from whence our men had been +driven, and we discovered a little stream that formed an admirable +boundary line entirely in accordance with the terms laid down in +Pemberton’s definition of the boundary.</p> +<p>Further north, I knew the country well myself, and we had now no +difficulty in laying down a definite boundary line about which there +could be no doubt. This was done, and pillars were erected, and the +line marked on the map. Manipur might, according to Pemberton’s +statement, have claimed a good deal of territory occupied by Burmese +subjects, but this I refused to allow, as it would have been +interfering with the ”<i>status quo</i>,” which I desired +to preserve. I called all the Sumjok people I could to witness what I +had done, and they all agreed that what I said was fair, and that the +fault, if any, lay with the Burmese authorities, for not taking part in +the arrangement. This was willing testimony, as none of the people need +have come near me. Even Tamoo, the chief of Old Sumjok, or Taap, as the +Manipuris call it, visited me, and expressed his satisfaction with what +had been done. On Christmas Day, 1881, my wife and I had a party of +seven at our table, an unprecedented sight, and probably the last time +that nine Europeans will ever assemble at <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb214" href="#pb214" name="pb214">214</a>]</span>Kongal Tannah. My +friend Dun, who had been badly wounded by a pangee (bamboo stake) had +to be carried in.</p> +<p>Before leaving Kongal, I went round all the pillars that had been +erected, and saw that they were intact. Mr. Ogle’s party went off +to the north, escorted through the village of Choomyang by Lieutenant +Dun. These people being under the influence of Sumjok, it was a very +delicate business getting through their village without a rupture. This +affair Dun managed with great tact. We left Kongal on our homeward +journey on the 6th of January, but previous to starting I brought my +long-standing negotiations with the Chussads to a successful +conclusion. They agreed to negotiate with me but not with the +Manipuris, and to abide by my decision entirely.</p> +<p>I sent a message to the Choomyangs and other Kukis who had given +trouble, telling them that they were undoubtedly within Manipur, and +that I gave them forty-two days in which to submit, or clear out, +adding, that if at the end of that time they gave any trouble, they +would be treated as rebels and attacked without more ceremony. +Eventually they submitted and became peaceful subjects of Manipur. As +to the great question—that of the boundary—I may here add +that it received the sanction of the Government of India, and proved a +thorough success. Though not noticing it officially, the Burmese +practically acknowledged it, and it remained intact, till the Kubo +valley became a British possession in December 1885.</p> +<p>My wife and I reached Manipur on the 9th of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb215" href="#pb215" name= +"pb215">215</a>]</span>January, having made the last two marches in +one, and next day were joined by Mr. Phayre, who had come, +<i>viâ</i> Tamu. He gave it as his opinion, that the Pagan Woon +was greatly disappointed at having had no authority from Mandalay to +negotiate with me, and described him as a sensible well-disposed +man.</p> +<p>I had now to write my report of my mission, and having finished +this, and handed over charge to my successor, I left Manipur with my +wife on the 29th of January, reaching Cachar, where we met Mr. Elliott, +the Chief Commissioner, on 5th of February. We left that evening by +boat, and travelling with the utmost speed possible, with such means as +we possessed, reached Naraingunge, near Dacca, and after waiting two +days for a steamer went to Calcutta, <i>viâ</i> Goalundo, and +thence to Bombay and England, where we arrived in March, both of us +very much in need of a prolonged rest. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb216" href="#pb216" name="pb216">216</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2519" href="#xd20e2519src" name="xd20e2519">1</a></span> Major +Edward Dun died on the 5th of June, 1895.—<span class= +"sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch24" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIV.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Return to India—Visit Shillong—Manipur +again—Cordial reception—Trouble with Thangal +Major—New arts introduced.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">I left for India again in August 1884. I had had but a +sad period of sick leave, as my wife never recovered from her fatigue +and illness, and died in 1883. I was obliged to prolong my leave to +make arrangements for my children.</p> +<p>I took over charge of the Manipur Agency on the 1st October, 1884, +at Shillong, and stayed a few days with the Chief Commissioner. I left +again on 8th October and reached Cachar on the 15th, having made every +effort to push on, and given my boatmen double pay for doing so. On my +way to Cachar, I met people who complained to me of the way they had +been treated in Manipur while I was away, and of the arrogance +displayed by old Thangal Major, who, during my absence, had become +almost despotic. Thangal was an excellent man when kept well in hand, +but he required to be managed with great firmness. During the +Maharajah’s increasing illness, a good opportunity was given to a +strong man to come to the front, and Thangal took advantage of it. On +20th October, I reached Jeeree Ghât, and was received with great +effusion by the Minister Bularam Singh. At Kala Naga on the 22nd, I +heard definite complaints against Thangal, a <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb217" href="#pb217" name="pb217">217</a>]</span>sure +proof that something very bad was going on, as no one would have +ventured to complain without grave provocation. Bularam Singh was +Thangal’s rival, so I asked him nothing, knowing well that I +should hear as much as I wanted at Manipur. At Noongha, next day, there +were fresh complaints, the charge being, that men told off to work on +the roads were being used by Thangal to carry merchandize for +himself.</p> +<p>At Leelanong, overlooking the beautiful Kowpoom valley, some Nagas +(Koupooees) brought me a man of their tribe who had been carried off as +a boy by the Lushais, and only lately redeemed. He was still in Lushai +costume, and though shorter and fairer, he greatly resembled one of +that tribe, showing what an influence dress has.</p> +<p>On 28th October, I arrived at Bissenpore, intending to march to the +capital next day, but was delayed by an unpleasant circumstance. It +was, as already mentioned, the custom for the Maharajah to meet me at +the entrance to the capital on my arrival, but knowing that he was not +well, I asked the minister to write and say that I did not expect him +to do so, but I would invite the Jubraj to meet me at Phoiching, +half-way between the capital and Bissenpore instead. I also wrote the +same to my head clerk, Baboo Rusni Lall Coondoo, asking him to notify +my wishes to the Durbar, as I felt it extremely likely that were +Bularam Singh alone to write, old Thangal might intrigue and throw +obstacles in the way to discredit him with me and the Durbar. The +minister’s letters were not answered, but I heard from Rusni Lall +Coondoo, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb218" href="#pb218" name= +"pb218">218</a>]</span>that he asked to see the Jubraj who had already +heard from Bularam Singh, but he was told that he was ill. After a +great deal of delay an interview was accorded, and though he appeared +quite well, the Jubraj said he was too ill to come, but would send a +younger brother. Feeling sure that there was nothing to prevent his +coming, I sent a message of sympathy, also to say, that I would wait at +Bissenpore till he recovered. I knew perfectly well that all this story +had emanated from Thangal Major’s brain, and that I was to be +subjected to inconvenience and want of courtesy, in order to snub his +colleague. He had suffered from a sore foot which prevented his coming +to Jeeree Ghât to meet me and he could not forgive Bularam Singh +for having taken his place. The Jubraj ought to have known better, but +among natives any slight offered to a superior is an enhancement to +one’s own dignity, so from this point of view he would gain in +his own estimation.</p> +<p>On the morning of October 30th, as soon as I was dressed, I saw +Thangal Major outside my hut. I heard afterwards that, directly my +decision had been communicated to the Durbar, he had volunteered to +come out, and as he said, bring me in. When we had had a little +friendly conversation, he with his usual bluntness, which I did not +object to, asked me to go in, saying that the Wankai Rakpa<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e2604src" href="#xd20e2604" name="xd20e2604src">1</a> +would meet me, the Jubraj being ill. I firmly declined, saying that I +would wait till he recovered. He then assured me that the real cause +was the critical state of the Jubraj’s wife. I doubted the truth, +but a lady being in the case, courtesy and good feeling <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb219" href="#pb219" name= +"pb219">219</a>]</span>demanded that I should accept the statement as +an excuse, and I therefore said I would leave, if the Wankai Rakpa and +another prince met me on behalf of the Jubraj. This was at once agreed +to, and I therefore marched off, being met in great state by the two +princes, who rode by my side all the way. As I neared the capital, a +vast crowd came out to meet me, the numbers increasing at every step, +and I was received with every demonstration of respect and sympathy, +many of those who knew my wife showing a delicacy of feeling that +greatly moved me. Old Thangal, when I met him, spoke very kindly on the +subject, saying, “It is sad to see you return alone, and we know +what it must be to you.” Numberless were the enquiries by name +after all the children. At last I reached the Residency, where my old +attendants were ready to do all they could for me. It was something +like home, old books, furniture, children’s toys, still here and +there, and in a corner of the verandah my little girl’s litter, +in which she was carried out morning and evening, but the faces that +make home were away.</p> +<p>I mention the foregoing incident regarding the Jubraj, as it is a +good example of the small difficulties connected with etiquette, that +one has to contend with in a place like Manipur. The question is far +more important than it seems. Any relaxation in a trifling matter like +this, seems to Asiatics a sign that you are disposed to relax your +vigilance in graver questions. Indeed, to a native chief, etiquette +itself is a very grave matter, and many terrible quarrels have arisen +from it. I well remember a slight being offered to the Viceroy, because +a Rajah <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb220" href="#pb220" name= +"pb220">220</a>]</span>fancied he had not received all the honours due +to him.</p> +<p>I found a crop of small difficulties awaiting me in Manipur, the +Durbar, and especially old Thangal, had got out of hand, and had to be +pulled up a little. There were numberless complaints from British +subjects of petty oppression which had to be listened to, and I felt it +rather hard having this unpleasant duty to perform just after my +return; but it was duty, and had to be done, and by dint of firmness, +combined with courtesy, I soon set things right, but Thangal Major +rather resented the steady pressure which I found it necessary to +apply.</p> +<p>Before leaving Manipur in 1881, I had sent off some Manipuris to +Cawnpore to learn carpet making and leather work. When I returned, +these men had long been making use of their knowledge in Manipur, and I +found that first-rate cotton carpets and boots, shoes and saddles of +English patterns, had been manufactured for the Maharajah, the +workmanship being in all cases creditable, and in that of the carpets +most excellent.</p> +<p>I tried to send men to Bombay to learn to make art pottery, and the +Maharajah was at one time anxious about it, but the correspondence with +the School of Art was conducted in so leisurely a manner on their side, +extending over nearly a year, that he got tired of it, and declined to +send the men. I had a little pottery made in Manipur, which I brought +home with me, the only existing specimens of an art that died out in +its infancy.</p> +<p>I had several pieces of silver work made to try the mettle of the +Manipuri silversmiths, one bowl, a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb221" +href="#pb221" name="pb221">221</a>]</span>most perfect copy of a +Burmese bowl with figures on it in high relief, was beautifully +executed, and still excites the admiration of all who see it.</p> +<p>The Mussulman population of Manipur, was descended from early +immigrants from India, Sylhet, and Cachar, who had married Manipuri +wives; they numbered about 5000, and were rather kept under by the +Durbar, but to nothing like the same extent that Hindoos would have +been under a Mussulman Government. Formerly, they had to prostrate +themselves before the Rajah like other subjects, but they having +represented that this was against their religion, Chandra Kirtee Singh +excused them from doing it, allowing a simple salaam instead. They, +(probably owing to their dependent position), were not such an +ill-mannered and disagreeable set as their co-religionists of Cachar, +and were generally quiet and inoffensive. The headman of the sect +received the title of Nawab from the Rajah. These men had a grievance +to bring forward when I returned, and I procured them some redress.</p> +<p>I visited the Maharajah in due course, and found him better than I +expected, and I took an early opportunity of announcing my return to +the Burmese authorities in the Kubo valley, receiving civil letters in +return. Unfortunately, I found that great soreness still prevailed in +Manipur on account of the non-settlement of the Kongal case, and I was +constantly on the alert lest evil results should follow, as I always +suspected old Thangal of a desire to make reprisals.</p> +<p>When I had a day to spare, I went to see my experimental garden and +fir wood, at Kang-joop-kool, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb222" href= +"#pb222" name="pb222">222</a>]</span>finding everything in a +flourishing state, the wood a tangled thicket, with foxgloves and other +English flowers growing in wild profusion. One morning when walking +out, I saw some prisoners going to work, and as they passed me, one or +two looked as if they would like to speak. I accordingly passed by them +again to give them an opportunity, when a man ran up and complained +that he was imprisoned without any definite period being assigned, a +common practice in Manipur. Another man, whom he called as a witness, +spoke good Hindoostani, and on my enquiring where he learned it, he +said he was a Manipuri from Sylhet. I sent for him directly I got home, +and he came with Thangal Major, and, as he was a British subject, and +the Durbar had no right to imprison him, I sent for a smith, and had +his irons struck off in my presence. I spoke quietly, but firmly to the +Minister, but showed him plainly that I would not stand having British +subjects imprisoned except by my orders. The man’s offence was +not paying a debt for which he was security, and the punishment was +just, according to the laws of Manipur, and would have been in England +before 1861. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb223" href="#pb223" name= +"pb223">223</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e2604" href="#xd20e2604src" name="xd20e2604">1</a></span> Known as +Regent during the recent troubles.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch25" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXV.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">A friend in need—Tour round the +valley—Meet the Chief Commissioner—March to +Cachar—Tour through the Tankhool +country—Metomie—Saramettie—Somrah—Terrace +cultivators—A dislocation—Old quarters at Kongal +Tannah—Return to the valley—A sad parting.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">On the 26th of November, my old friend Lieutenant Dun +(now Major Dun, D.S.O.), joined me. Knowing I wanted a friend to cheer +me in my loneliness, he had very kindly accepted the permission of his +department to accompany me on a tour through the hills to the +north-east of Manipur. No European was more deservedly popular of late +years among all classes in Manipur, where he had visited me once or +twice before. I felt his kindness deeply, he was always a charming, +genial and highly intellectual companion, and many a long and tiring +march was cheered by his society. On the 2nd of December, we started on +a preliminary tour round the west and south of the valley, visiting the +Logtak lake, with its floating islands, its island-hill of Thanga, with +its orange gardens and place of exile, and large fishing establishment. +When I first arrived in Manipur, oranges were a rarity. Now, owing to +the enterprise of the Maharajah in planting trees, they were fairly +common, and here we were able to gather them. The orange tree is +capricious and all soils <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb224" href= +"#pb224" name="pb224">224</a>]</span>will not suit it, and up to the +fifth or sixth year it is always liable to be attacked by a grub that +kills it, after that it becomes hardier. I never was very successful +with orange trees, though I took great pains with them. From the Logtak +lake, we marched to a place called Thonglel, in the hills, where we +were met by all the representatives of the Kukis in that direction, +thence to a place called Koombee, a settlement of Loees, low-caste +Manipuris. Afterwards we marched to Chairel on the main river into +which all the rivers of Manipur flow before it enters the hills to the +south of the valley. After visiting Shoogoonoo, a frontier post, we +returned to the capital, on December 11th, after a very pleasant tour +of one hundred and forty-six miles in nine marching days.</p> +<p>We next marched up the road to the Naga Hills, meeting the Chief +Commissioner, Mr. Elliott, at Mao, and returning with him to Manipur, +where the usual visits were exchanged. After a day or two’s halt, +the Chief Commissioner set out for Cachar and I accompanied him to the +frontier at Jeeree Ghât, returning to Manipur by forced marches. +The bridge over the Mukker had been broken by a fallen tree, but the +river, so formidable in the rains, was easily fordable. A short time +before reaching the summit of Kala Naga, a pretty little incident +occurred, which I have never forgotten. Some of my coolies were toiling +up the steep ascent with their loads, when two young Kukis met us with +smiling faces as if something had given them great pleasure. They +immediately made two of the men with me put down their loads, and took +them up <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb225" href="#pb225" name= +"pb225">225</a>]</span>themselves to relieve the wearied ones. On my +enquiry who they were, they said they were friends of my coolies and +had come to help them. It was one of the prettiest sights I ever saw, +the pleasure the two men seemed to derive from doing a kind act. Dun +and I reached Manipur on the 10th of January. Soon after my return, in +fact before the evening, a Lushai was brought to me who had been found +in the jungle with his hands tightly fastened together by a bar of iron +fashioned into a rude pair of handcuffs. He appeared to be mad, but +harmless, and had probably been kept in confinement by his own people +and had escaped. I had the irons taken off, and ordered him to be cared +for, but he soon ran off in the direction of his own country.</p> +<p>On the 21st of January, Dun and I set off on our tour through the +Tankhool country. We marched <i>viâ</i> Lairen and +Noongsuangkong, already described. The country had been surveyed, but +the surveyors had taken names of villages given by men from the Naga +Hills district, and they were unrecognisable to the native inhabitants. +Much of my march, after leaving <span class="corr" id="xd20e2652" +title="Source: Noonsuangkoong">Noongsuangkong</span>, was through a new +country, and a very interesting and lovely country it was. The benefits +of being under a strong government were evident in the peace that +reigned everywhere. The Manipuri language also had spread, and in some +villages seemed to be used by every one, while in others even children +understood it. It was evidently the common commercial language.</p> +<p>On the 26th, we halted on the Lainer river, the large village of +Gazephimi being far above us at some miles distant. It was late in the +afternoon but <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb226" href="#pb226" name= +"pb226">226</a>]</span>Dun wanted to see all he could, and accompanied +by some hardy Manipuris started. They all returned in a suspiciously +short space of time, just at nightfall, Dun having astonished every one +by his marching powers. He described the villagers as a surly, morose +set, the description always given of them.</p> +<p>On January 28th we reached Jessami, a fine village of the Sozai +tribe; they much resembled the Mao people. They crowded round us and +were much pleased when we showed them our watches, and allowed them to +feel our boots and socks. Some of the houses were large and well +stocked with rice. One old man took us into his house and showed us a +shield carefully wrapped up in cloth that bore the tokens of his having +slain fifteen people. The village contained no skulls, and our friends +told us that they obeyed orders and killed no one. We enquired about +the snowy peak of Saramettie, which was visible from some point not far +<span class="corr" id="xd20e2661" title= +"Source: dis ant">distant</span>, but the people assured us that they +had never heard of it.</p> +<p>On the 29th, some Metomi men came in with a young man who acted as +interpreter, he having been captured, and then kept as a guest in +Manipur for some time, to learn the language, by Bularam Singh, who was +the Minister accompanying me. He seemed quite pleased to see his old +host. The Metomi people were a strange set, quite naked, except for a +cloth over the shoulders in cold weather. They are slighter built than +the Angamis and Tankhools. They could count up to one hundred, and +three of their numerals, four, six and seven, are the same as in the +Manipuri language. They wear their hair <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb227" href="#pb227" name="pb227">227</a>]</span>cut across the +forehead like some of the tribes in Assam. Their patterns of weaving +rather resembled those of the Abors and Kasias, but were finer. They +wore ear-rings of brass wire very cleverly made, the wire being +imported through other tribes.</p> +<p>On the 31st, having heard that I should be well received, Dun and I +started for Metomi, with an escort of Manipuris. We first made a +descent of 2000 feet to the Lainer, which we forded, the water being +knee deep; there were the remains of a suspension bridge for use in the +rainy season. We then ascended for about 1000 or 1500 feet, till near +the village, when I halted my men and sent on my Angami interpreter, +and one of the Metomi men, to ask that a party might come down to +welcome us, as I had reason to think that the villagers were undecided +as to what they should do, and I feared to frighten them. After waiting +a long time, we heard a war-cry, and we all started to our feet and +seized our arms, in case of an attack; the next minute, however, there +was another cry, showing that the people were carrying loads. Soon +after a long line of men appeared, each carrying a small quantity of +rice, and the heads of the village came forward, presenting us with +fowls, and heaped up the rice in front of me. We then walked on to the +village, distant about a mile and a quarter, along an avenue of +pollarded oaks, backed by fir trees. At last, after passing a ditch and +small rampart, we reached the outer gate, then passed along a narrow +path, with a precipice to our right, and a thick thorn hedge to our +left for about eighty yards, as far as the inner gate, on entering +which we found ourselves in the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb228" +href="#pb228" name="pb228">228</a>]</span>village. We were then led +along a series of winding streets till we came to the highest part.</p> +<p>This was the most picturesque Naga village I have ever seen, and +reminded me of an old continental town, the ground it covered, being +very hilly, and the houses, constructed of timber with thatched roofs +with the eaves touching one another, built in streets. Sometimes one +side of a street was higher than the other, and the upper side had a +little vacant space railed in, in front of the houses.</p> +<p>The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis, +and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood, in +shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained pigs +and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows’ and +buffaloes’ horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our +hosts did not seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which +we had no intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested +them. We tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying +they feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it +was the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest +objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could +not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them, +which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through a +splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path +again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed +to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7 +<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as +some torch-bearers who came <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb229" href= +"#pb229" name="pb229">229</a>]</span>to meet us, set fire to the grass +prematurely, and we had to run hard to escape the flames. I wanted to +make a vocabulary of the Metomi language the next day, but the whole +village had a drinking bout, and every one was incapacitated during the +rest of our stay.</p> +<p>We marched to a place called Lapvomai on <span class="corr" id= +"xd20e2684" title="Source: Febuary">February</span> 3rd, and next day, +wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party +of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending to +the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range, +encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was too +tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to bed. Dun +and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few Naga +followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same, by their +caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill again, +leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our halting +place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three plucky +Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave us, pursued +our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and in a hollow +tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to die. After a +toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of thorny bamboo, +we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached the summit at +8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment, a spur from the +main range blocking our view. As this range might have taken another +day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor of another, we +reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb230" href="#pb230" name="pb230">230</a>]</span>our +party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some amusing +instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers, who had +well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream, and +encamped on its banks after being on foot for eleven hours.</p> +<p>Next day, we marched to our old encampment at Lapvomai. On +<span class="corr" id="xd20e2691" title= +"Source: Febuary">February</span> 7th, we marched to Wallong, passing +through lovely scenery, a series of deep valleys and ravines and high +hills, with a splendid view down the valley of Thetzir and Lainer, and +beyond, the junction of the latter with its north-eastern confluent, we +finally encamped close to a very remarkable gorge. On the 8th, we had +another march to the village of Lusour, where I greatly pleased a woman +and some children, by giving them red cloths, the former would have +denuded herself to put hers on, had I not prevented her. Next morning, +before starting, we had our breakfast in public, and ordered some +boiled eggs; the hill people are supremely indifferent to the age of an +egg, and even seem to think the richness of flavour enhanced by age, so +that almost all brought to us were either addled or had chickens in +them. At least two dozen were boiled before we found one that we could +eat, and as soon as an egg was proved to be bad, there was a great rush +of Tankhools to seize the delicacy, and our bad taste in not liking +them gave great satisfaction.</p> +<p>On February 9th, we reached Somrah, a most interesting but severe +march of eighteen miles. We first crossed a ridge 8000 feet in height, +where among other trees we found a new species of +yew—<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb231" href="#pb231" name= +"pb231">231</a>]</span><i><span class="corr" id="xd20e2698" title= +"Source: Cephelotaxus">Cephalotaxus</span></i>. After reaching the +summit, we made a gradual descent along an exceedingly steep hillside, +where a false step would have landed us in the stream 2000 feet below. +After this we descended more rapidly, and, crossing a stream, followed +a beautifully constructed watercourse through some recently cleared +land. We traced our way along its windings for some miles, and then, +after another ascent, at last came to a lovely undulating path through +a forest of firs and rhododendrons, the latter just coming into flower. +The path at length, after an ascent of 200 feet, brought us to the +village, a finely built one of the regular Tankhool type, with over two +hundred houses, built with stout plank walls, and having an appearance +of much comfort.</p> +<p>The next day we went to Kongailon, one of the Somrah group, making a +descent of 2000 feet to cross a river, and again ascending 5600 feet. +We passed many skilfully constructed watercourses and much terrace +cultivation, indeed, the Somrah villages have the finest system of +irrigation I have ever seen, and the long parallel line of watercourses +on a hillside present a most remarkable appearance. At Kongailon, we +halted a day to explore the country, and receive deputies from various +villages. From the ridge behind the village, at a height of from 7000 +to 8000 feet, there was a fine view of the Somrah basin—valley it +cannot be called; it is a huge basin, the rim of which consists of +hills, having an average height of over 8000 feet, the villages being +on the inner slopes or on bold spurs.</p> +<p>On February 12th, a very severe march took us to <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb232" href="#pb232" name= +"pb232">232</a>]</span>Guachan, a miserable-looking village full of +very dirty people, many of whom were naked, their bodies being covered +with a thick coating of dirt. We had to halt next day to rest the +coolies, and to have a path cleared ahead. On February 14th, we again +started, halting on the Cherebee river, at a height of 4400 feet. On +our way, while passing along a lovely ridge, covered with rhododendrons +in flower, we had a fine view of Saramettie, with its snow cap.</p> +<p>Next day, we marched over Kachao-phung, 8000 feet high, and encamped +on its slopes at 7600 feet. So perverse are the ways of the hill-men, +that the road, a well-used one, was carried within fifty feet of the +summit, though it would have been easy to cross at a much lower level. +We encamped in a primeval forest of huge trees, the branches of which, +moved by the fierce wind that blew all night, waved to and fro with +such a threatening noise as to preclude sleep for a long time.</p> +<p>On the evening of the 12th, one of our coolies was brought to me, +who had dislocated his shoulder. We had no doctor of any kind with us, +and no one who understood how to reduce it. Dun and I tried our utmost, +and I put the poor fellow under chloroform, to relax the muscles and +spare him pain, but, alas! with no result. I tried to induce him to go +to Manipur, and be treated by my native doctor there; but he objected, +and preferred going to his home; so I gave him a present and let him +go, and very sorry we were to see him relinquish his only chance of +getting right again. Every one ought to be taught practically to reduce +a dislocation; I had often heard <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb233" +href="#pb233" name="pb233">233</a>]</span>the process described, but +never seen it done, and my lack of experience cost the poor Naga the +use of his arm. It is one of the saddest parts of one’s life in +the wilds of India to meet cases of sickness and injury without the +power to give relief. Simple complaints I treated extensively, and with +great success, but it was grievous to see such suffering in more +complicated cases, and to be unable to do anything. A skilful and +sympathetic doctor has a fine field for good work in such regions. A +sick savage is the most miserable of mortals.</p> +<p>The good points of the Manipuris, as excellent material for hardy +soldiers, were brought out very prominently on these long marches. No +men could have borne the fatigue and hardships better or more patiently +than they did. It quite confirmed me in the opinion I had long since +formed that, taken every way, the Manipuris were superior to any of the +hill-tribes around them. I remember that when at Jessami, one of the +Manipuris, at my suggestion, challenged any Naga, who liked, to a +wrestling match, none would come forward, though the villagers were a +fine sturdy set. It was impossible, also, to help noticing, as we went +along, the very remarkable aptitude the Manipuris possess for dealing +with hill-tribes. The Burmese tried in vain to subdue the Tankhools, +and in one case a force of seven hundred men, that they sent against +them, was entirely annihilated. However, as the Manipuris advanced, the +different tribes, after one struggle, quietly submitted, and on both +occasions when I marched through the north-eastern Tankhool country, +the people were in admirable order, and behaved <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb234" href="#pb234" name="pb234">234</a>]</span>as +if they had always been peaceful subjects of Manipur.</p> +<p>Next morning, though the thermometer was at thirty-six degrees, the +Manipuris felt the cold so severely from the terrible wind that had +been blowing all night, that they did not attempt to cook before +marching, but started off and hurried down the hill to get to a warmer +region. I never knew the hardy fellows do this before, and it shows the +influence of a piercing wind in making cold felt, as I have often seen +them quite happy on a still night with the thermometer at twenty-six +degrees or lower.</p> +<p>Five more marches brought us to Kongal Tannah, where I encamped on +the ground we occupied in 1881–1882 when I was Boundary +Commissioner. On our way, we received a visit from Tonghoo, the +redoubtable Chussad chief, now a peaceful subject of Manipur, a man of +the usual Kuki type, imperturbable and inscrutable. Next day, I +inspected the boundary pillars I had set up, and found them intact, a +satisfactory proof that the settlement was not unacceptable to either +Manipur or Burmah.</p> +<p>We marched back by the old route, encamping as we had done more than +four years before in the deep valleys of the Maglung and Turet. On the +24th, from the crest of the Yoma range, we saw the valley of Manipur +once more at our feet, and in the evening encamped at Ingorok. Next +day, I parted from my friend, I riding into Manipur, and Dun going +north for a few days’ more survey of the country. He rejoined me +on March 2nd. Thus ended one of the hardest, but, at <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb235" href="#pb235" name="pb235">235</a>]</span>the +same time, one of the pleasantest marches I ever made, all the +pleasanter for the society of such a clever and charming companion. We +spent one more week together, and then Dun went back to his appointment +in the Intelligence Department, to my great regret, and I settled down +to my usual routine work, constantly varied by interesting little +episodes. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb236" href="#pb236" name= +"pb236">236</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch26" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVI.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">More troubles with Thangal +Major—Tit-for-tat—Visit to the Kubo valley—A new Aya +Pooiel—Journey to Shillong—War is declared—A message +to Kendat, to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents—Anxiety as to +their fate—March to Mao.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">During the spring of 1885, I had constant trouble with +Thangal Major; the old man was perpetually doing illegal acts. He had +lost his head during my absence in England, and though treated with +every courtesy, he greatly resented being called to order. Some +Mussulmans had complained to Mr. Elliott about the oppression exercised +towards them, and in my absence Thangal was foolish enough to imprison +them. Of course, I heard of it, and insisted on their release, and this +weakened his authority. Again, he, as “Aya Pooiel,” +<i>i.e.</i> Minister for Burmese Affairs, greatly resented our not +having settled the Kongal case, and insisted on the authors being +punished. We were very good friends privately, though I always expected +further trouble with him. The Maharajah’s ill health also gave me +anxiety, as he was no longer the active man he once was, and was daily +falling more and more under Thangal’s influence.</p> +<p>At last matters came to a crisis. On May 23rd, I received a letter +from the Burmese authorities at Tamu, brought by a deputation reporting +that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb237" href="#pb237" name= +"pb237">237</a>]</span>some murders had been committed by Manipuri +subjects, and the next day when the visitors came to see me, they +openly accused the Mombee Kukis of having done the deed. I felt sure +that the outrage had been carried out at the instigation of Thangal +Major, as a set-off against the Kongal case, and I sent for him. He +came to see me on May 25th, and, when I opened the subject, he assumed +rather a jaunty air. I spoke very gravely, and told him that it was a +very serious business, and that an investigation must take place, and +that I wished him, as Aya Pooiel, to accompany me. He replied in a very +unbecoming manner, and began to make all sorts of frivolous excuses, +the burden of his speech being that, as justice had not been done in +the Kongal case, there was no need to investigate a case brought by the +Burmese. I was very calm, and remonstrated several times, but seeing +that it had no effect, I requested him to leave my presence, which he +did. I then wrote to the Maharajah asking him to appoint Bularam Singh +to aid me in the investigation, also reporting Thangal’s conduct, +and saying that I could not allow him to attend on me till he had +apologised. The worst of Thangal’s behaviour was, that he spoke +in Manipuri, and in the presence of the Burmese messengers, who +understood it, instead of in Hindoostani which no one but myself +understood. Thinking carefully over the matter, I wrote to the +Maharajah on May 26th, requesting him to replace Thangal in the Aya +Pooielship by another officer, suggesting Bularam Singh, as I did not +consider it safe to leave him in charge of the Burmese frontier. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb238" href="#pb238" name= +"pb238">238</a>]</span></p> +<p>There was the greatest opposition offered to my request, and the +Maharajah made every effort to evade it. It was currently stated by +people in the Court circle that it would be easier to depose the +Maharajah himself, but I remained firm. Meanwhile, Bularam Singh was +appointed to accompany me, and, on June 8th, I left for Moreh Tannah, +near Tamu, halting the first day at Thobal. Before leaving, I received +an apologetic letter from Thangal, and later he called on me, and made +an ample apology, speaking very nicely. I accepted the apology +personally, quite reciprocating his friendly sentiments, but told him +that, having acted in the way he did, I could not trust him as Aya +Pooiel.</p> +<p>I reached Moreh Tannah on June 13th, and was visited by some +Burmese. The next day, I proceeded to the scene of the murder, and +exhumed two headless bodies, and took evidence regarding the raid. +Before reaching Manipur, I heard through some Kukis the most convincing +proofs that the Mombee people had committed the raid, and at Thangal +Major’s instigation. I obtained all the necessary details later +on, but the Burmese war prevented my undertaking an expedition for the +release of some Burmese captives who had been carried away and sold, +though I accomplished it later on.</p> +<p>At Moreh Tannah, I obtained some excellent mangoes, the only ones +free from insects that I ever saw on the eastern frontier, those in +Assam and Manipur being so full of them as to be uneatable when ripe, +though beautiful to look at. Here also I had most unpleasant evidence +of the existence of a plant that has the smell of decomposed flesh. I +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb239" href="#pb239" name= +"pb239">239</a>]</span>imagined that a dead body had been buried under +the temporary hut I lived in, till a Manipuri explained matters to me, +and showed me the plant in question.</p> +<p>I reached Manipur on June 20th, and a day or two after wrote to the +Maharajah, calling to mind my letter respecting the Aya Pooielship, and +again requesting Thangal’s removal. The next day the old fellow +called, and we had a very friendly interview, and I explained my +reasons for acting as I had done. He seemed convinced, and rose and +seized my hand, and said, “You are right. I understand +thoroughly.” He then said he would cheerfully submit, and went +away in an apparently excellent frame of mind. It is said that after +this, his son, Lumphél Singh, a very bad young man, talked him +over and urged him to resist, but, anyhow, he soon after went to see +the Maharajah, and recanted all he had said to me. However, I was +determined to persist, and told the Maharajah plainly that he must +choose between me and Thangal, with the result that he consented, and +the Aya Pooielship was given to another.</p> +<p>This struggle caused me great regret, as Thangal had many good +qualities, and but for his having had his own way too much during my +absence in England, would never have lost his head as he did. However, +there was one good result, as I established very friendly relations +with the Burmese authorities, who saw that I wished to be just, and +this stood me in good stead when the war broke out.</p> +<p>During the whole time that the dispute was going on, I had the +support of the Jubraj, who said I was <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb240" href="#pb240" name="pb240">240</a>]</span>in the right, and +most people, I believe, thought likewise. All the same it was painful +to gain a victory over one who had worked well with me for years, more +especially as I felt that the weakness of our own Government in not +insisting on justice being done in the Kongal case, had given him some +justification in his own eyes, though this was a plea that I could +never admit.</p> +<p>In October 1885, I went to Shillong to see the Acting Chief +Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and as he was intending to march through +Manipur on his way to the Naga Hills, I stayed with him, and we all +left Shillong together on November 4th. We left Cachar on November +12th, and halted that evening at Jeeree Ghât, I on the Manipuri +side of the river, the Chief Commissioner and his following on the +British. A short time before dinner—we were all Mr. Ward’s +guests—I received a note from him, directing my attention to a +telegram, and asking me to act on it. The telegram was a startling one, +and was to the effect that war with Burmah was to commence, and that +our troops would pass the frontier on a certain date; that there were +nine European and many native British subjects in the employ of the +Bombay-Burmah Corporation in the Chindwin forests with whom it had been +impossible to communicate, and to ask me to make every effort to let +them know the facts, and to do anything I could to assist them. The +matter was extremely urgent, as, if I remember rightly, the 25th was +the day for the troops to enter Upper Burmah, and every moment was of +the utmost importance. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb241" href= +"#pb241" name="pb241">241</a>]</span></p> +<p>I thought it over for five minutes, and determined on a course of +action, and set to work at once to follow it out. I knew perfectly well +that with the frontier and all roads so carefully guarded, as I had +seen those in the Kubo valley to be, there was absolutely no chance of +a secret messenger advancing ten miles on Burmese soil, and I therefore +resolved to send my letter through the Kendat Woon (Governor of +Kendat), the great Burmese province of which the Kubo valley was part. +I wrote a letter to the European employés of the Bombay-Burmah +Corporation, giving the message I was asked to transmit, and urging +them to make every effort to accept my hospitality and protection in +Manipur. To this letter I appended Burmese and Manipuri translations, +and put them in an open envelope addressed in the three languages, +hoping and believing that, seeing that the contents were the same in +both languages, which they had the means of understanding, the Burmese +authorities would, on the principle of the Rosetta stone, assume that I +had said the same in English.</p> +<p>This done, I enclosed the envelope in a letter to the Kendat Woon, +in which I told him exactly how matters stood, and that in a short time +Burmah would be annexed, and urging him, as he valued the goodwill of +the conquerors, to make every effort to protect and aid the British +subjects in his province. I asked him to deliver the letter, to which I +had appended translations that he might read what I said, and to bear +in mind that any service he might render would be richly rewarded and +never forgotten, while he might rely on my <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb242" href="#pb242" name="pb242">242</a>]</span>word +as his well-wisher; that a terrible punishment would befall any one who +injured a hair of the head of a British subject. In addition to this, I +wrote letters to the Burmese authorities at Tamu, with whom I was on +friendly terms, begging them, as they valued their lives, and my +goodwill, to forward the letter to the Woon with all possible +speed.</p> +<p>This done, I went to dine with the Chief Commissioner, and when he +asked if I had received his note, I told him I had acted on it. Feeling +that I had done all that I could for the best, I took no further steps +at the time than to issue orders to the Manipuri frontier stations, to +give all aid requisite to fugitives from Burmah, and to make +arrangements for their being entertained in Manipur, should they arrive +in my absence.</p> +<p>I heard afterwards that there was great anxiety in Burmah when it +was known that I had communicated with our isolated countrymen through +the Burmese authorities, it being regarded as likely to seal their +fate.</p> +<p>I marched to Mao on the Naga Hills frontier with the Chief +Commissioner, and then returned to Manipur, arriving on the 4th, and on +the 5th heard from Moreh Tannah that a European was being kept a +prisoner at Kendat. I wrote at once to the Tamu Phoongyee, asking him +to use his influence to release him, saying that I was in a position to +march to his aid in case my letter had no effect.</p> +<p>On December 9th, I heard that all the Europeans at Kendat had been +murdered, the Queen of Burmah’s secretary having arrived with one +hundred regular troops on a steamer and ordered their execution, and +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb243" href="#pb243" name= +"pb243">243</a>]</span>that forty of the Bombay-Burmah +Corporation’s elephants and all their native followers had been +arrested.</p> +<p>On December 10th, the news of the capture of Mandalay arrived. It +gave immense satisfaction, and it was said that many of the old people, +who knew what Burmah was, were so pleased that they could not eat their +dinners. The Jubraj visited me to offer his congratulations, and a +salute of thirty-one guns was fired. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb244" href="#pb244" name="pb244">244</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch27" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">News from Kendat—Mr. Morgan and his people +safe—I determine to march to Moreh Tannah—March to +Kendat—Arrive in time to save the Bombay-Burmah Corporation +Agents—Visit of the Woon—Visit to the Woon.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">On December 17th, I at last received a letter from Mr. +A. J. Morgan, the chief agent of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation at +Kendat, acknowledging my letter of November 12th. He told me that three +Europeans, Messrs. Allan, Roberts and Moncur, had been murdered on the +River Chindwin by the Queen’s Secretary; that he and Messrs. +Ruckstuhl and Bretto had been protected by the Kendat Woon, and four +others by the Mengin Woon. He said the Chindwin valley was filling with +dacoits, <i>i.e.</i>, brigands, and that their position was very +precarious. I at once wrote to the Woon thanking him warmly for the +protection he had accorded to my fellow-subjects, and sent him a pair +of handsome double-barrelled guns, one of them a rifle, as a present, +also five hundred rupees, which I asked him to give to Mr. Morgan.</p> +<p>Feeling certain of the dangerous position of the British subjects at +Kendat, if they were surrounded by disbanded soldiery who had turned +brigands, I determined to march to the frontier, so as to be ready to +give aid, if necessary. I accordingly asked the Maharajah to lend me +400 Manipuris, and 500 Kukis, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb245" +href="#pb245" name="pb245">245</a>]</span>and one mountain gun. With +these, and fifty men of my escort of the 4th Bengal Infantry, under +Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby, I marched off on December 19th.</p> +<p>My escort consisted of sixty men of all ranks, but I weeded out ten +as not likely to stand the severe marches we might have to undertake. I +then paraded the remainder and addressed them, saying that any man who +felt himself unfit for service might fall out, and I should think none +the worse of him. All stood fast, and then I said, “Now, I will +not take you, unless you promise me not to fall sick, till you have +escorted me back safely to Manipur.” The men gave a shout of +acclamation, and I gave the order to march, and never had I better, +braver or more devoted men under me, or men who bore hardship and want +of all the little comforts of life more cheerfully.</p> +<p>We reached Moreh Tannah, where I had intended to halt and watch +events, on December 23rd, and there I received a letter from Mr. +Morgan, who described the state of things at Kendat as daily getting +worse, and expressed his conviction that if the dacoits reached Kendat, +the Woon would be unable to hold his own; he therefore hoped I might be +able to afford them the aid they so sorely needed, as, unless a force +marched to their assistance speedily, their lives would not be safe. On +hearing this, I determined to march for Kendat at once, and by the +rapidity of our movements overcome all resistance; indeed, not to allow +the Burmese time to think of it. Accordingly we marched to Tamu, where +the authorities at once submitted, and I declared the country +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb246" href="#pb246" name= +"pb246">246</a>]</span>annexed, and reappointed the old officials, +pending further orders, promising my protection to all classes, and +calling on the people to complain at once if any of my followers +injured them.</p> +<p>All this done, we marched to Mamo, some miles beyond Tamu, where we +halted in the rice fields attached to the village which was very +strongly stockaded. My camp was at once filled with men, women and +children, all disposed to be friendly and all willing to receive little +presents. It was a pretty feature of the Kubo valley, as of Upper +Burmah generally, and as in Assam formerly, that immediately on leaving +the village cultivation you plunged at once into forest.</p> +<p>My party was not so numerous as I could have wished. The Minister, +Bularam Singh, accompanied me, but the nine hundred men all told, that +I had asked for, were not there, and the supply of provisions was +scanty. I made all my escort take ten days’ food per man, with +orders not to touch it, without my direct permission, and I procured +supplies <span class="corr" id="xd20e2806" title= +"Source: where-ever">wherever</span> I could, as we went along. I also +took a large supply of money.</p> +<p>As Bularam Singh was holding the appointment formerly held by +Thangal, he had not the knowledge to help him in all petty details that +the other would have had. However, realising more keenly than ever from +my experience at the relief of Kohima, the extreme value of time, and +of rapid strokes, I pushed on at all hazards, trusting to have my +numbers made up.</p> +<p>I had a few first-rate Manipuri officers with me, and my old +orderlies, Sowpa, Thutot, and Sundha. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb247" href="#pb247" name="pb247">247</a>]</span>I took my excellent +hospital assistant, Lachman Parshad, and my Manipuri secretary and +interpreter, Chumder Singh, and most of my old chuprassies, who were +invaluable. My head clerk, Rusni Lall Coondoo, was unfortunately on +leave, marrying his daughter, and I greatly missed him.</p> +<p>On the morning of December 24th, we started from Mamo, determined to +reach Kendat next day, though the Burmese said it was <i>absolutely +impossible</i> to do it. I had with me my escort of fifty men of the +4th B.I., and between three hundred and four hundred Manipuris, the +Kukis not having arrived. The old road had been disused, and our path +was a perfect zigzag. We halted long after sunset at Pendowa on a small +stream, the Nunparoo. The mountain gun did not arrive, and half our +force was not up till midnight. When all the coolies had arrived, I +told them that if we reached Kendat next evening, they should have +buffalo to eat.</p> +<p>The country through which we had passed was not naturally a +difficult one, but there had been no attempt to make it good, and in +places it was very bad, all the more so from the unnecessary number of +times that we crossed the same river. I was much interested to see +large numbers of bullock carts in the villages, such not being used in +Manipur.</p> +<p>Next morning, we started early, and soon began to ascend the +Ungocking hills. This seemed endless, one range succeeded another, here +and there we saw coal cropping out of the hillside. After about 12.30 +<span class="sc">P.M.</span>, the path was alternately along the bed of +a stream and over high ridges, one of those meaningless, <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb248" href="#pb248" name= +"pb248">248</a>]</span>winding roads that seem made expressly to +irritate people with no time to spare. At last, in the far distance, we +saw a scarped hill, that was said to be close to Kendat, and cheered by +the sight, we pressed on, but it was hours before we reached the goal. +About 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, I met a Burmese, who spoke +Hindoostani, and gave me a letter from Mr. Morgan, telling me that he +and his party were all well, and earnestly longing for our arrival. The +man told me that he was the “Hathée Jemadar,” +<i>i.e.</i>, the man in charge of the elephants, and he accompanied +us.</p> +<p>At last, just after sunset we reached the Chindwin river, even then, +in the dry season, six hundred yards wide. We gave a loud cheer and +hoisted the Union Jack; and the “Hathée Jemadar” +went over to tell the Europeans we had come to save, of our arrival. +All my escort and most of the Manipuris marched in with me; every man +had done his best and hearty were the congratulations that passed +between us.</p> +<p>We had marched sixty-five miles over a terribly rough country, the +last thirty being quite impassable for even laden mules, in thirty +hours. A havildar of the 4th said, “Sahib, is not our march one +of the greatest on record?” I told him that it was. It was +pleasant to think that we had arrived on Christmas Day. How little my +children in England realised the way I was employed.</p> +<p>In less than an hour Mr. Morgan, who had seen our arrival, came over +accompanied by Messrs. Ruckstuhl and Bretto, his subordinates, all +dressed in Burmese costume, everything they had having been plundered +in the Woon’s absence. Mr. Morgan brought over a message from the +Woon to me, saying that he <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb249" href= +"#pb249" name="pb249">249</a>]</span>submitted to my authority, and +would come over to-morrow, and tender his formal submission.</p> +<p>Next day he appeared with Mr. Morgan and made his submission. He was +a dignified old man, with a pleasant face expressive of much character. +I thanked him on behalf of Government for his services in protecting +British subjects, and told him that, while assuming charge of the +country on the part of the British Government, I wished him to remain +in office, and conduct the administration pending definite +instructions. I told him that I expected him to maintain order, and +quiet down the country, and promised him any assistance which he might +require to aid him in the endeavour.</p> +<p>After this, I set to work to secure supplies with Mr. Morgan’s +aid, so as to be ready for any emergency, and then crossed the river +and called on the Woon and inspected the stockade, a huge enclosure, +420 yards long and 163 wide, with a wall of solid teak logs, 18 feet +high, and none less than a foot square, with strong heavy gates. I +returned to my camp before nightfall, and the mountain gun arrived +under the escort of Gour Duan Subadar. Next day, I heard that the +Mengin Woon had absconded, finding his position untenable.</p> +<p>Had I had a trained levy at my disposal, as would have been the case +had my advice been followed, I could have easily sent a force to occupy +Mengin, and might indeed have marched to Mandalay. As it was, +commanding only irregulars, my position was one of daily anxiety.</p> +<p>The site of Kendat was very picturesque, situated on the high left +bank of the Chindwin, up and down <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb250" +href="#pb250" name="pb250">250</a>]</span>which a view of many miles is +obtained, the reach being there a long one. The stockade contained the +greater part of the official residences, and a good proportion of the +inhabitants, but there were many houses outside, and temples and +phoongyes’ residences. Below the town was a large Manipuri +village, inhabited by the descendants of captives taken in the war of +1819–25.</p> +<p>In the rainy season, when the Chindwin is at its height, and 1200 +yards wide, with the long ranges of the Manipuri Hills in the +background, the view is said to be very beautiful. For many miles round +Kendat, to the east of the Chindwin, the country is flat, but studded +here and there with strange-looking hills with scarped sides, that rise +abruptly out of the plains, calling to mind the hill-forests of Central +India. Kendat was well supplied with boats, many of them being most +elaborately carved.</p> +<p>It was a great misfortune that none of the men of my escort +understood the management of boats, a most useful accomplishment on the +eastern side of India, where rivers abound, and one in which the men of +the old Assam regiments used to be proficient. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb251" href="#pb251" name="pb251">251</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch28" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXVIII.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">People fairly +friendly—Crucifixion—Carelessness of Manipuris—I +cross the Chindwin—Recross the Chindwin—Collect +provisions—Erect stockades and fortify our position—Revolt +at Kendat—We assume the offensive—Capture boats and small +stockades—Revolt put down—Woon and Ruckstuhl +rescued—Steamers arrive and leave.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The Burmese were fairly friendly to us, though they +did not display any love for the Manipuris, and the latter showed +rather too plainly that they thought the tables were turned, and that +they now had the upper hand of the Burmese.</p> +<p>In many of the villages along our line of route in the Kubo valley, +we had observed crosses ready for the crucifixion of malefactors, +especially dacoits. These were also to be seen here and there, on the +banks of the river at Kendat, but the Woon afterwards told me that he +rarely crucified offenders and disliked employing torture; indeed he +had the reputation of being a merciful old man. However, the people at +large seemed quite to approve of strong measures, and knowing what +Burmese dacoits are capable of, I hardly wonder. After I left, the man +who introduced himself to me as “Hathée Jemadar” +incautiously surrendered to some dacoits, who first broke the bones of +his legs and arms inch by inch, and then ripped him up!</p> +<p>On the 28th December, I crossed the river with my <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb252" href="#pb252" name= +"pb252">252</a>]</span>whole force, and entrenched myself on the +sandbank of the Chindwin. That evening, I heard from Mr. Morgan, that +there was a strong party opposed to the Woon, and greatly dissatisfied +with him for having submitted. Troops had been expected up the river +from the British force at Mandalay, and their delay encouraged the +Burmese to hold up their heads. Next day, December 29th, the air was +full of rumours, and some of the Burmese Manipuris, I have just alluded +to, plied my Manipuris with all sorts of stories, of a rising against +us, on the part of the Burmese. These stories had a great effect on the +Manipuris, and they displayed so much unsteadiness, and at the same +time such gross carelessness, that I determined to recross the river. I +heard too that six men coming to join me, had been killed, and three +wounded on the road, report said, by Burmese. I laughed at the idea, as +I was sure that the assailants were wild Chins, as the Burmese would +not show their hand prematurely. However, the news spread, and served +to dishearten the men.</p> +<p>On the 30th I transported my whole force to the opposite bank, it +cost me incredible trouble, and I had to superintend the most petty +details myself. I sent over a party to construct a stockade into which +the Manipuris could be penned like a flock of sheep for the night and +which I could enlarge afterwards, and I insisted on the work being +finished that day. It <i>was</i> finished, and last of all I crossed +the river with my escort.</p> +<p>Next day, Mr. Morgan told me that things had quieted down very much +among the Burmese; we did all in our power to collect provisions, and I +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb253" href="#pb253" name= +"pb253">253</a>]</span>enlarged the stockade, improving it from day to +day, till it at last became a commodious and strong defensive building, +scientifically constructed. I occupied a small stockade on a hillock +above it, whence I had a good view, and could overlook the Manipuris. I +had a circle of outlying pickets supplied by the Kuki irregulars with +me, and these were a perpetual safe-guard against surprise during the +long dark nights. We cleared the jungle from round our stockade, and +did all we could to make our position secure.</p> +<p>Still the Manipuris were a constant anxiety, illustrating the +well-known saying, “Fools rush in, where angels fear to +tread.” Their carelessness was astonishing. I had the utmost +difficulty in getting them to take the most ordinary precautions. The +bravest and best-disciplined troops in the world would never think of +neglecting every rule of warfare in the way that they did. Fire was a +constant danger, and having no warm clothes, the Manipuris could hardly +be prevented from lighting fires at night, thereby incurring a double +danger, viz., that of setting fire to the stockade, also lighting up +our position and enabling an enemy to fire at us. I was as a rule +eighteen or nineteen hours on foot out of the twenty-four, and during +the five or six allotted to sleep, I generally got up three times, to +see that all was right.</p> +<p>Provisions began to come in, and on the last day of the year, I sent +off 400 coolies to Moreh Tannah for provisions, so as to reduce the +useless mouths, and to lessen the danger from fire. I rebuilt all the +huts of green grass, as less inflammable than dry materials. +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb254" href="#pb254" name= +"pb254">254</a>]</span></p> +<p>On January 1st, evil rumours were again afloat, and I asked the Woon +if he were sure of his position. He replied that he was, and had +perfect confidence that he could keep every one in hand. However, I +went on collecting provisions, and while hoping for the arrival of the +troops expected up the river, prepared for any eventuality. On January +3rd, large supplies of rice came in. The Issekai, an officer holding +the rank of major, came twice to see me, and all seemed well. Mr. +Morgan was with me all day helping with the rice sellers, but left +about 4 <span class="sc">P.M.</span> About an hour afterwards, he +reappeared with Mr. Bretto, saying that they had been shut out of the +stockade, but that Mr. Ruckstuhl was detained there. They suspected a +rising throughout the country, as a rumour had just been spread that a +Royal prince was about to arrive at Kendat with 3000 men.</p> +<p>This was bad news, and I begged Messrs. Morgan and Bretto to stay +the night with me. There was no time to be lost; I felt certain that +the country had risen, and that in a few hours our communications would +be cut, so I wrote to Manipur asking the Maharajah to send me 1000 men +under Thangal Major at once to Moreh Tannah, to await events, and 500 +to join me at Kendat, also a good supply of provisions. I telegraphed +also to Government saying what had happened, and that I had taken every +precaution, and that they might rely on my doing all that man could. I +asked for no help, feeling that, if, with my present resources, I could +not retrieve my position, I should soon be past help. I also wrote a +few lines home, explaining matters in <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb255" href="#pb255" name="pb255">255</a>]</span>case I was killed, +with a few last words to my children.</p> +<p>These letters I sent off by swift and trusty men well armed, with +orders to push on with all speed. Having done this, I prepared for a +life-and-death struggle next day.</p> +<p>As the morning broke and the heavy mist began to rise earlier than +usual, we speedily saw the changed aspect of affairs. We had secured +two boats under a guard the night before, but all besides had been +taken from our side of the river. All the people had left a +neighbouring village, but just below us we saw one boat after another +leaving, heavily laden with the inhabitants and their portable goods. +The opposite sandbank too, was occupied in force by the Burmese, who +held our former entrenchment, and one or two small stockades. By this +time also the country in our rear had risen, so we were completely cut +off. The opposite bank was crowded with large boats, giving every +opportunity to the enemy to send a strong party over to attack us by +night, were he so disposed.</p> +<p>Immediate action was necessary, if only to save the British +subjects, and the faithful Woon who had suffered in our cause. The good +old Minister, Bularam Singh, quite lost his nerve, and begged and +implored me to make terms and retreat, as the only means of saving +ourselves. I told him that my very children and friends would despise +me, if I, for a moment, contemplated such a course, and that there was +nothing for it but to fight it out.</p> +<p>“Which man should you respect most?” I said, “one +who cringed at your feet, or one who boldly <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb256" href="#pb256" name= +"pb256">256</a>]</span>struck you?” “The man who struck +me,” he replied. “Exactly so,” I said; “and it +is the same with the Burmese. I intend to strike a hard +blow.”</p> +<p>I had an ultimatum written in Burmese, demanding the surrender of +the Woon, and his officers, and of all British subjects within two +hours, under pain of my attacking the stockade; this I did, to run as +little risk of injury to the captives, as possible. I had the ultimatum +tied to a bamboo, and sent in a boat to a shallow part of the river, +and I called to a Burmese to take it. This was done. I looked at my +watch, and when the time expired, opened fire on the stockade.</p> +<p>For the first time in my life, I laid a gun. I judged the distance +from the high bank where we stood, to the great stockade, to be 1250 +yards, and the first shell went over it. I lessened the range by 50 +yards, and again fired, and this time struck the stockade fair and +well. We saw and heard the shell explode, and our men raised a loud +shout of triumph. This little success gave the Manipuris renewed +confidence. I lined our bank with picked shots of the 4th B.I., and +under cover of these and the gun, sent two parties across in the boats, +with orders to attack and destroy all the small stockades, and to +capture some boats to convey more of our men across, and to burn all +the rest, so as to prevent the enemy assuming the offensive.</p> +<p>Mr. Morgan, eager for the fray, went as a volunteer and assumed the +natural position of leader. We kept up the fight all day. Shot after +shot struck the great stockade, all the small ones were captured and +burned, the enemy driven from the shore and <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb257" href="#pb257" name= +"pb257">257</a>]</span>every boat within sight either brought over to +our side, or sent burning down the river.</p> +<p>Meanwhile, the Burmese had not been entirely passive, they had +opened an artillery fire on us, and one or one-and-a-half-pound shots +began to fall on our side. Old Bularam Singh walked up and down, +notwithstanding this, with the greatest indifference, having now +recovered his spirits, and behaved very well.</p> +<p>By sunset, nothing remained to be captured but the great stockade, +and many were the volunteers, both Hindoostanis and Manipuris who +begged to be allowed to cross once more and attack it. However, I would +not consent, only two men, Messrs. Morgan and Bretto, knew all the +turns and windings of the place, and one false move might convert our +success into a disaster. All the same, I felt terribly anxious as to +the fate of the Woon and of the British subjects.</p> +<p>I went to my hut in the evening, feeling that we had done all we +could. As I passed through the stockade, I was surprised to see the +clever way in which the coolies remaining with us had strengthened it, +by digging deep trenches sufficient to afford a man perfect protection +against rifle fire, even without the stockade.</p> +<p>I rose early on January 5th, after an anxious night, having given +orders for a party to be ready to cross the river with me, to attack +the great stockade; but, just as I left my hut to make a start, I was +met by Mr. Ruckstuhl with irons on his ankles—he had got rid of +the connecting bars—who told me that it had been evacuated. The +facts I learned were as follows. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb258" +href="#pb258" name="pb258">258</a>]</span></p> +<p>On the evening of January 3rd, incited by the near approach of three +thousand men and the promised support of the Tsawbwas of Thoungdoot, +Wuntha, Kubo, and six other districts, the bad spirits in the town rose +against the Woon, and put him and his family and chief officials, with +Mr. Ruckstuhl, in irons. It was only by a mistake that Messrs. Morgan +and Bretto were shut out of the stockade and not arrested.</p> +<p>When my ultimatum arrived, the Burmese laughed at the idea of my +doing anything, and when our fire opened on them they were just about +to crucify the Woon and Ruckstuhl. When, however, our attack began to +make an impression on them, and shells burst in the stockade, +especially one in a room where the chief men were deliberating, they +retreated, leaving their prisoners. Mr. Ruckstuhl had hidden under a +hedge, and the Woon and his family were taking refuge in a +Phoongye’s house. This was good news and an immense relief to +every one; we felt we had done our work.</p> +<p>I immediately took a party across the river and rescued the Woon, +and took possession of the huge stockade, which would have cost us many +a life to capture, had it been well defended. We took sixteen guns and +a large number of wall pieces, all said to have been wrested from +Manipur in former days.</p> +<p>The Woon’s house was apparently intact, but empty, and the +town was deserted. In a house we found a hen on a brood of chickens, +unmoved apparently by all the firing and commotion. I made over the +Woon’s house to him again, and I established a Manipuri guard for +his protection. With <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb259" href="#pb259" +name="pb259">259</a>]</span>reference to the guns, I should say that I +did not take them from the stockade on my first arrival at Kendat, not +wishing in any way to lower the prestige of the Woon who had done us +such good service, and who professed himself quite able to account for +them, and to keep the people in order. As events proved, we were quite +able to take them when necessary.</p> +<p>Just as we had finished our work, and Mr. Morgan and I were taking +some food in the afternoon, two steamers came in sight far down the +Chindwin. These proved to be the party sent to rescue the British +subjects at Kendat, under Major Campbell, 23rd Madras Infantry; and +consisted of a company of the Hampshire Regiment and some blue jackets, +and some of the 23rd Madras Infantry, and great was their +disappointment to find that the work had been done before they arrived. +However, had we waited for them, there would have been no one to rescue +on their arrival.</p> +<p>To my intense surprise, I heard that Kendat was to be abandoned, but +no arrangements had been made for carrying away the Native British +subjects. Mr. Morgan would not abandon these and the valuable property +of the Bombay-Burmah Corporation, and elected together with Mr. Bretto +to stay with me. I strongly urged Mr. Ruckstuhl (whose brother, one of +the refugees from Mengin, had been brought up by Major Campbell) to +leave for Rangoon with the steamers, as I thought, after twice narrowly +escaping a violent death, he had better run no more risks. He took my +advice. The steamers left on January 8th. <span class="pagenum">[<a id= +"pb260" href="#pb260" name="pb260">260</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch29" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXIX.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Mischief done by departure of steamers—Determine +to establish the Woon at Tamu—The Country quieting +down—Recovery of mails—Letter from the Viceroy—Arrive +at Manipur—Bad news—I return to Tamu—Night march, to +Pot-tha—An engagement—Wounded—Return to +Manipur—Farewell—Leave for England.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">We had gained immense prestige by the vigorous way in +which we had put down the revolt, and the people from the neighbouring +country began to come in and make their submission, but the departure +of the steamers was a great blow to it. Of course, the natives +attributed it to fear. Had they stayed, all trouble would have been at +an end, and the country would have quietly settled down. As it was, +this unfortunate retreat again upset the minds of all.</p> +<p>The Chindwin, and the route to it through Manipur, had not been +considered when the campaign was decided on. No part of a country that +it is intended to annex can with safety be neglected, and the Chindwin +valley was a very important part of Burmah.</p> +<p>As I have said before, a properly organised Manipur Levy would have +solved all difficulties at the outbreak of war; failing that, a force +specially devoted to the Chindwin valley, and entering through Manipur, +and aided by local knowledge acquired during many years on that +frontier, might have occupied the province of Kendat before any +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb261" href="#pb261" name= +"pb261">261</a>]</span>time had been given for the spread of +lawlessness. It is almost incredible that, considering the part taken +by Manipur, and troops moving through Manipur during the war of +1885–6, showing the immense facilities offered by that route, +that no inquiry whatever was made regarding it before the outbreak of +hostilities.</p> +<p>I saw plainly that without the certainty of troops and one steamer +at least arriving to reinforce us, it would be unwise to attempt to +hold Kendat so far from our base at Manipur, therefore I made +preparations for escorting all British subjects and property to Tamu, +within the Woon’s jurisdiction, advising the latter to establish +himself there for the present, and from that point gradually +reconsolidate his authority. He greatly approved of the suggestion, and +I made arrangements with a view to carrying it into effect.</p> +<p>It was not till the 10th of January that any post arrived from +Manipur. The Kubo valley had risen, it was said, in obedience to orders +received from the Kulé Tsawbwa and a man called the Lay Kahiyine +Oke, and it was reported that we had been annihilated; but the sight of +all the captured guns, which I at once sent to Manipur, told the people +a different tale, and they soon subsided and returned to their +allegiance. I sent out a party to attack and destroy the house of a +hostile chief, east of the Chindwin, and it was successfully +accomplished.</p> +<p>Several letter bags which had been stolen were now given up, and I +issued proclamations to all the neighbouring chiefs calling on them to +remain quiet, and keep their people in order. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb262" href="#pb262" name="pb262">262</a>]</span></p> +<p>Two hundred of the troops I had sent for from Manipur, arrived at +Kendat, and 300 more I ordered to be stationed at different points on +the road. The 1000 men under Thangal Major were directed by me to +return to Manipur. Before leaving Kendat, I sent on the Woon, with his +family and 250 native British subjects, <i>en route</i> to Tamu, with a +strong escort. The road had been much improved during my occupation of +Kendat, and was now passable for lightly laden elephants.</p> +<p>I left some Burmese officials at Kendat with orders to report +regularly to the Woon, and collect taxes due, and having made all +arrangements that I could for the peace of the country, I quitted it, +with the remaining portion of my force, on January 14th, encamping at a +place called Méjong. We reached Tamu on the 17th, where the Woon +was well received.</p> +<p>I had written to the Thoungdoot (Sumjok) Tsawbwa, asking him to come +and see me, but he was nervous, and sent his Minister instead. The man +arrived on the 19th, with a very civil letter from the Tsawbwa, making +his submission. I explained to him that I should hold his master +responsible for the good behaviour of his people, and sent him to pay +his respects to the Woon, which he did. About this time I received some +very complimentary telegrams from Government, thanking me for what I +had done; these being followed by an autograph letter from the Viceroy, +Lord Dufferin.</p> +<p>Being completely worn out with the work and anxiety I had gone +through, so much so, that I could not sleep without a dose of bromide +of potassium, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb263" href="#pb263" name= +"pb263">263</a>]</span>I set off for Manipur, to get a little rest, on +the 20th of January, and reached it, by forced marches, on the 22nd. +Mr. Morgan came with me, and my escort followed two days after. The men +had kept their promise, and not one man had “gone sick” for +a day, and they had always been ready for work; often, since the +outbreak on the 3rd of January, living for days on rice fresh cut from +the enemy’s fields by the Manipuris.</p> +<p>I left a strong guard of Manipuris in a stockade at Tamu as a help +to the Woon, and let the Minister Bularam Singh and all the rest of the +party return with me.</p> +<p>Before leaving Tamu, I handed over one or two men, supposed to be +rebels, to the Woon, and gave him authority to execute them, should he +consider it necessary, as an example, saying, however, that he must, in +that case shoot, hang, or decapitate, as we could not allow painful +modes of putting to death.</p> +<p>I found, on arrival at Manipur, that another detachment of the 4th +B.I. had arrived, and I very soon found use for them.</p> +<p>I had hoped to have had some much-needed rest, but on the 24th I +received a letter from the Woon telling me that two of the leading +rebels in the outbreak of the 3rd, who had fled towards Wuntho, had +returned, and were leading about bands of brigands. I heard from +another source that the men I had delivered into his hands had been +released on paying heavy fines, and had joined the rebel leaders. The +Woon had an ample force at his disposal, but, as I saw that another +storm was brewing, I sent off the new detachment of the 4th, towards +Tamu, on the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb264" href="#pb264" name= +"pb264">264</a>]</span>26th, and followed myself (Mr. Morgan having +preceded me) on the 28th; and on the 30th we marched into Tamu +together.</p> +<p>I met the poor old Woon ten miles within the Manipur frontier; he +had evidently lost his nerve and had fled, the ill-treatment he had +undergone, and the narrow escape from crucifixion, were too much for +him. I at once sent him on to Manipur, with orders that he should be my +guest, and marched on.</p> +<p>As we crossed the frontier, the Burmese left the jungles where they +had hidden from the dreaded dacoits, and returned with us to their +villages. Tamu was quiet, the Manipuri guard had stood firm at their +posts, and held the stockade intact, a work Manipuris are admirably +fitted for, and thoroughly to be trusted with. My arrival seemed to +quiet down the valley for many miles, indeed all the inhabitants for +miles round were by the next day pursuing their ordinary avocations, +and the only fear was from the dacoits.</p> +<p>On January 31st, at about 6 <span class="sc">P.M.</span>, I received +a report that a party of the enemy had hoisted the white flag (the +Burmese Royal Standard), and taken up their quarters at Pot-tha, a +disaffected village twenty miles from Tamu. This was an opportunity not +to be lost, and I prepared to strike a decisive blow. We left Tamu +about midnight, the force consisting of myself and Mr. Morgan, fifty of +the 4th B.I., seventy Manipuris, and fifty Kuki irregulars. We had to +march in single file through the forest, carrying torches to light us, +and a most picturesque sight it was, the long line winding in and out +under the tall <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb265" href="#pb265" name= +"pb265">265</a>]</span>trees, which the blaze of the torches lighted +up, producing a very weird effect. We took with us guides from Tamu, +and marched in deep silence, every now and then passing a village +opening, though we generally avoided them, if possible.</p> +<p>At last, just after daybreak, we heard the sound of a musket shot; +our Shan guides said: “This is the place,” and instantly +evaporated. I can use no other term; I saw them one moment, the next +they had gone, where I know not. We went on, and after a hundred yards, +passed fortifications just evacuated, and soon after entered the +village, the enemy retiring before us without firing a shot; we rushed +on, and searched the houses. I saw the white standard planted outside a +large house on a platform; I ran up and seized it, close by was a tree +called in Bengali, “Poppeya,” the papaw, I believe, of the +West Indies, with a soft trunk. A minute after, while I was looking +about to see if I could observe any of the enemy, a volley was fired, +evidently intended for me, the royal standard in my hand making me a +conspicuous mark. I was not struck (probably just at the moment I +moved), but the tree was, and fell, cut in two by at least twenty +musket balls.</p> +<p>I then saw some of the enemy strongly posted, under a house, built +like all in those parts on strong posts, affording excellent cover. I +sprang down from the platform, calling to my scattered men to follow. +One man was ahead of me, and was shot down mortally wounded; another +minute, and I myself was struck by a shot on the left temple, and +almost stunned. I was able to rise, but with the blood streaming down, +not fit to pursue. I called to Mr. Morgan and asked <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb266" href="#pb266" name="pb266">266</a>]</span>him +to head a party of the 4th B.I. and clear the village, which was done +with great gallantry, the men, when they returned, greatly applauding +Mr. Morgan’s courage and dash. Having driven out the enemy who, +we subsequently ascertained, lost seven killed and twenty-five wounded, +we set fire to the village and 10,000 maunds of rice stored there, +<i>i.e.</i>, about 360 tons, which, of course, we could not carry away, +and marched back to Tamil which we reached about nightfall carrying our +wounded with us. Besides myself, we had one mortally wounded, one +severely and one slightly. I was able to march back. We took three +prisoners and heard that the enemy, who did not stop till he had +crossed the Chindwin, had a force of 400 to 500 men engaged, commanded +by Boh Moung Schway Lé.</p> +<p>On February 6th, all the principal chiefs of the Kubo valley came in +and made their formal submission to me, promising to remain quiet and +obey the orders of the Tamu Myo Thugee, whom I appointed to administer +the valley till further orders. Next day, I made them all go to the +Pagoda, and swear allegiance to the British Government, the oath being +most solemnly administered by the Phoongyees. I gave definite +instructions to all, and urged them to keep the peace, and buy, sell +and cultivate as usual.</p> +<p>I proclaimed the passes into Manipur open to traders, which gave +great satisfaction to all, and having satisfied myself that everything +was quiet I set out for Manipur to consult Dr. Eteson, the Deputy +Surgeon-General, who was passing through, about my wound. I arrived by +forced marches on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb267" href="#pb267" +name="pb267">267</a>]</span>February 9th, and found that the sepoy +mortally wounded on February 1st, had died on the 8th.</p> +<p>Dr. Eteson urged me to go to England on sick leave, and I very +reluctantly determined to follow his advice. But, before leaving, I had +the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the Kubo valley in a state of +profound peace for a month and a half. Provisions were no longer a +difficulty. They were freely brought in, and the little luxuries that +Hindoostani troops require over and above what can be bought on the +spot, were taken down by traders. So great was the energy of the +latter, that 2000 buffaloes were exported through Manipur to Cachar +during this short period, and when I finally bade adieu to my friends +at Tamu, Mr. Morgan and I both expected that war was at an end, and +that perfect peace would prevail. It was not our fault that it did +not.</p> +<p>Let me here offer a tribute to one who stood by me nobly in the hour +of need, but who, unfortunately, died of cholera at Kulé, after +his return from well-earned leave in England. Morgan was a thoroughly +good fellow all round, a devoted servant of the Bombay-Burmah +Corporation, and one who put their affairs before everything. As gentle +and kind as he was brave, he was a great favourite with the Burmese, +and had evidently much influence with them. He was always in favour of +mild measures, unless strong ones appeared absolutely necessary.</p> +<p>While still in Burmah, I had sent in my despatches to General Sir H. +Prendergast, K.C.B., who commanded the army of invasion, in which I +strongly commended to his notice the admirable services of <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb268" href="#pb268" name="pb268">268</a>]</span>my +escort, mentioning specially several men whom I thought particularly +deserving of it, though all had done so well, and shown such devotion +to duty and soldier-like spirit, that it was a difficult task to select +any one in particular. General Prendergast forwarded my recommendation +to the Commander-in-Chief, and it was a great satisfaction to me when I +heard afterwards that Baluk Ram Chowby, then Subadar Major of his +Regiment, had received the Order of British India, with the title of +“Bahadur,” and that other decorations and promotions had +been bestowed. The detachment of the gallant 4th Bengal Infantry, took +with them, as trophies to their regiment, a standard they had captured, +and also one of the sixteen guns taken at Kendat.</p> +<p>I left the old Woon at Manipur, having strongly recommended him to +the favour of Government. He stood by our people in a dark hour, and +saved them from torture and death. He was of high family, and had +fought against us in 1852. He had the air of a thorough gentleman, and +was, with all his family, most amiable in conversation and +demeanour.</p> +<p>Before leaving, I paid one last visit to Kang-joop-kool and saw my +child’s grave,<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3024src" href= +"#xd20e3024" name="xd20e3024src">1</a> and the peaceful <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb269" href="#pb269" name= +"pb269">269</a>]</span>scenery and lovely views over the hills and the +broad valley, thinking of the past and its many memories connected with +the place. I paid my last visit to the Rajah, when I told him that I +had strongly urged the restoration to him of his old possession, the +Kubo valley. I visited all the familiar spots round the capital. I said +good-bye to old Thangal, Bularam Singh, and all my old followers, and, +on the 19th of March, bade adieu to Manipur, which I felt I had raised +out of the mire of a bad reputation.</p> +<div class="figure xd20e3043width"><img src="images/p268.jpg" alt= +"Arthur Johnstone’s Grave." width="451" height="507"> +<p class="figureHead">Arthur Johnstone’s Grave.</p> +<p class="first">[<i>Page 268.</i></p> +</div> +<p>I left it as it had been of yore, a faithful and devoted, though +humble, ally of the British Government to whom it had done transcendent +service. Alas! little did I think of the fate that would befall it +before a few short years had passed by.</p> +<p>My escort turned out to salute me as I left the Residency gate, and +I gave them an address, thanking them for their services. Then the +Subadar Baluk Ram Chowby insisted on their accompanying me for some +distance. When time for them to return, he halted his party, drew them +in line by the side of the road, and presented arms, and as they did it +they gave a loud shout of “Colonel Sahib Bahadûr ke +jye,” <i>i.e.</i> “<span lang="fr">Vive Monsieur le Colonel +Victorieux</span>;” we have no equivalent for it in English. My +heart was too heavy to say much; I said a few words, and we parted.</p> +<p>As I crossed the summit of the Lai-metol range I <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb270" href="#pb270" name="pb270">270</a>]</span>gave +a last look at the valley, and saw it no more.</p> +<p>I passed through Shillong, where I was hospitably entertained by the +Chief Commissioner, Mr. Ward, and on reaching Calcutta received a +command to visit Lord Dufferin at Benares. He received me very kindly, +and under his roof I spent a most enjoyable day. I left Bombay on the +9th of April, and reached home on the 28th, thus practically finishing +my active Indian career, after nearly twenty-eight years’ +service. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb271" href="#pb271" name= +"pb271">271</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3024" href="#xd20e3024src" name="xd20e3024">1</a></span> +“The Senaputtee seemed determined to wipe away all signs of +British connection with the State. Not only were the charred remains of +the Residency still further demolished, but every building in the +neighbourhood, and the very walls of the compound and garden were +levelled, and the graves of British officers were desecrated. The +Kang-joop-kool Sanatorium, twelve miles from the capital, built by Sir +J. Johnstone, was burnt, and his child’s grave dug +up.”—<i>Times</i>’ telegram, May 3, +1891.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote">It appears by the official correspondence that the +Senaputtee sent seven Manipur sepahis to open the child’s grave, +and scatter the remains, out of spite to Sir J. Johnstone, whom he knew +had wished him to be banished, and who (on account of the +Senaputtee’s exceptionally bad character) would never admit him +into the Residency. For this act the British military authorities had +the sepahis flogged.—Nos. 1–11, East India (Manipur) Blue +Books.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="ch30" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Chapter XXX.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Conclusion.</h2> +<h2 class="sub">The Events of 1890 and 1891.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">When I first began this book it was my intention to +have given a connected account of the Palace Revolution of September +1890, and that of 1891, against the British Government. Being probably +the only living person in full possession of the whole facts connected +with the startling events that then took place, and the circumstances +that led up to them, and having, moreover, a strong conviction that it +is best for all parties that the truth should be known, I felt that a +fair and impartial statement could do no harm, and might act as a +warning. Further reflection has led me to alter my determination, and +to ask myself the question, ”<i lang="la">Cui bono?</i>” +The Government of India has shown no desire to make more disclosures +than necessary, and it is not for me, a loyal old servant, to lift the +veil.</p> +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="first">“Let the dead past bury its dead.”</p> +</div> +<p>However much, therefore, I may wish to see the right horse saddled, +I shall for the present, at any rate, avoid criticism as far as +possible, and confine myself to a few general remarks. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb272" href="#pb272" name="pb272">272</a>]</span></p> +<p>Nothing that I can say will undo the past, and all that remains is +to hope for the future.</p> +<p>After I left Manipur fresh disturbances broke out in the Kubo +valley, where I had left all peaceful, prosperous, and contented, and a +considerable strain was put on the resources of Manipur. Had I been +ordered to return I would gladly have done so, but my health was too +bad to make it advisable for me to volunteer my services.<a class= +"noteref" id="xd20e3091src" href="#xd20e3091" name="xd20e3091src">1</a> +I regret that I did not, as I might in that case have again urged the +claims of Manipur to have the Kubo valley restored to her, as she had a +right to expect that it would be; substantial hopes having been on at +least one occasion held out to her, and her many good services and +constant loyalty entitling her to consideration.</p> +<p>However, it was not to be; and in the summer of 1886 another +misfortune befell her, in the death of Maharajah Chandra Kirtee Singh. +Perhaps, like his father, Ghumbeer Singh, he was happy in the hour of +his death, as he did not live to see the disgrace of his country, and +the ingratitude of our Government to his family.</p> +<p>Now was the grand opportunity for the Government and an able +Political Agent to step in and make the many needful reforms, and +introduce necessary changes, and instil a more modern spirit in keeping +with the times, into the institutions of the country. Did we take +advantage of it? Of course we did not; but, true to our happy-go-lucky +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb273" href="#pb273" name= +"pb273">273</a>]</span>traditions, let one precious opportunity after +another pass by unheeded. Year after year during my period of office +had I struggled hard, and carried on a never-ending fight for influence +and prestige, with the strong and capable old Chandra Kirtee Singh, +gaining ground steadily; but realising that, while I worked, the full +advantage would be reaped by that one of my successors who might chance +to be in office when my old friend closed his eventful life. At such a +time, in addition to the result of my labours, a weaker occupant of the +throne would afford many opportunities such as were not vouchsafed to +me, and now the time had arrived when we might have worked unimpeded +for the good of all classes.</p> +<p>Soor Chandra Singh, the former Jubraj, or heir apparent, succeeded +his father, a good, amiable man, with plenty of ability, but very weak. +He was loyal to the British Government, and had on several occasions +given strong proof of it, and he was much respected by his own people. +Had he been taken in hand properly all would have been well, but the +Government of India seems never to have realised that excessive care +and caution were necessary. The records of the past plainly showed that +the appointment of a Political Agent was always a difficult one to fill +satisfactorily, but no pains seem to have been at any time taken to +find a suitable man; if one happened to be appointed, it was a matter +of chance, and the post seems generally to have been put up to a kind +of Dutch auction. On one occasion I believe that an officer, who was at +the time doing well, and liked the place, was taken <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb274" href="#pb274" name= +"pb274">274</a>]</span>away, and another, who did not wish to go, sent +up, to die within a month of a long-standing complaint. For all this, +of course the Foreign Office must be held responsible, as it had a long +traditional knowledge of Manipur; and though its powers were delegated +to the Chief Commissioner of Assam, it should have ascertained that +that officer was capable of making a good selection, and had an officer +under him fit for the appointment. The work may not have been of a +nature requiring the very highest class of intellect, but it certainly +did require a rather rare combination of qualities, together with one +indispensable to make a good officer, namely, a real love for the work, +the country, and the people. My immediate successor had these latter +qualities, but he died of wounds received within six weeks of my +leaving.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3109src" href="#xd20e3109" name= +"xd20e3109src">2</a></p> +<p>It is to be regretted, also, that the Government of India acts so +much on the principle that the private claims of some of its servants +should be considered before the claims of the State generally, and the +people over whom they are put, in particular. It seems to be thought +that the great object, in many cases, is to secure a certain amount of +pay to an individual, quite irrespective of his qualifications, rather +than to seek out an officer in every way competent to administer a +great province, and satisfy the requirements of its people. I say this +especially with reference to Assam. Few provinces of India require more +special qualities in its ruler, containing, as it does, many races of +different grades of civilisation; the situation being further +complicated by the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb275" href="#pb275" +name="pb275">275</a>]</span>presence of a large European population of +tea-planters. These, by their energy and the judicious application of a +large amount of capital, have raised it to a great pitch of prosperity, +and they naturally require to be dealt with in a different way to their +less civilised native fellow-subjects.</p> +<p>An officer may be an admirable accountant, or very well able to +decide between two litigants, or, may be, to look after stamps and +stationery; but without special administrative experience, or those +abilities which enable a genius to grasp any subject he takes up, he +cannot be considered fit to be trusted with the government of a great +and flourishing province. His claims as regards pay should not be +allowed to weigh at all with the Government of India; it is unjust to +the people, and would be cheaper to give an enhanced pension than ruin +a province. Yet it cannot be denied that the considerations I have +referred to, do prevail, and that the Manipur disaster was, in a great +measure, due to the system, and that with proper care it could never +have happened.</p> +<p>When I was in Manipur no European could enter the state without +obtaining the permission of the Durbar through the Political Agent, and +the Maharajah, very wisely, did his utmost to discourage such visitors, +unless they were friends of the latter. Orchid collectors, and such +like, were rigorously excluded, wisely, again I say, considering the +havoc wrought by selfish traders with these lovely denizens of the +forests of Manipur and Burmah, and when the Burmese war broke out, very +few were those of our countrymen who had visited the interesting little +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb276" href="#pb276" name= +"pb276">276</a>]</span>state. As for myself I quite sympathised with +the Maharajah and I even said a word on behalf of the Sungai (swamp +deer) peculiar to Manipur and Burmah, and advised him to preserve it +strictly. I fear it must be extinct in Manipur by this time. The +Burmese war changed all this; troops poured through the country, and +European officers were constantly passing to and fro, much to the +annoyance of the Durbar. Of course, a stay-at-home Englishman will +hardly understand this, but to anyone knowing natives of India well, it +is self-evident, a European cannot go through a state like Manipur +where suspicion reigns rampant, and where people are wedded to their +own peculiar ways, without causing a great deal of trouble. All sorts +of things have to be provided for him, and though he pays liberally, +some one suffers. The presence of one or two Europeans constantly +moving about would no doubt in itself be a source of annoyance to the +high officials of Manipur, who would always suspect them of making +enquiries with a view to an unfavourable report to Government. All +natives of India are suspicious, and this remark applies with tenfold +force to Manipuris.</p> +<p>It cannot, I fear, be denied, that as a race we are a little +careless of the feelings of others. It is possibly due in a great +measure to our insularity; but, whatever be the cause, it is an +undesirable quality to possess. With a regiment of Native Infantry +stationed at Langthabal to support our authority, our prestige ought to +have rapidly increased; apparently the reverse was the case, and from +time to time incidents occurred, which indicated how events were +drifting. On one occasion some sepoys of the Political <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb277" href="#pb277" name= +"pb277">277</a>]</span>Agent’s escort were hustled and beaten by +some Manipuris at a public festival, and on another the man carrying +the Government mail bag between Imphal and Langthabal, was stopped and +robbed of the mails. Everything seemed to show that our position was +not what it had been. In former days such things could not have +happened.</p> +<p>Kotwal Koireng had always been a bad character, and had for years +been under a cloud. Had I remained in Manipur I should have turned him +out when the Maharajah his father died, and reported the matter to +Government. He was allowed to remain, and proved the ruin of the state. +His blood-thirsty nature soon showed itself, and he half-roasted two +men after a most cruel flogging, the Maharajah was asked to turn him +out of the state, and would probably have consented, but just at the +time a European sergeant shot a cow, the sacred animal of the Hindoos, +an outrage far exceeding any that our imagination can paint, and the +Rajah in his wrath flatly refused to punish his brother, while such a +fearful crime as cow killing, was allowed to pass unnoticed. Of course +the last was an untoward event, that should never have occurred. We +ought not to allow uncultured Europeans likely to be careless of native +feeling and susceptibilities to enter a state so full of prejudice and +suspicion as Manipur.</p> +<p>Thus events followed one another in rapid succession, signs every +now and then appearing which showed that all was not as quiet as it +seemed. I heard from time to time things that made me uneasy, as I +gathered that Kotwal Koireng, now become Senaputtee or +Commander-in-Chief, had much power <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb278" +href="#pb278" name="pb278">278</a>]</span>and influence, and I felt +sure that he would soon make an attempt to oust his brother, the +Maharajah.</p> +<p>At last the attempt was made. In September, 1890, the Maharajah Soor +Chandra Singh was attacked in his palace at night, and driven out. He +fled to Cachar and having petitioned the Government of India for his +restoration, proceeded to Calcutta. The case was a simple one, a palace +revolution had occurred and our nominee whose succession and whose +throne we had guaranteed, had been deposed. The course to be adopted by +Government was as clear as the day, Soor Chandra Singh should have been +restored at once and the usurper severely punished for insulting the +majesty of the British Government. Nothing of the kind was done. It was +decided, on what grounds I know not, to break our pledged word; the +Maharajah was to be exiled with a pittance for his support; his stupid +boorish brother who had been set up as puppet by the Senaputtee was to +be Rajah; while the evil genius of Manipur, the treacherous Senaputtee, +was to be exiled. The Government of India then ordered the Chief +Commissioner of Assam to proceed to Manipur and carry out their +decision, including the Senaputtee’s arrest.</p> +<p>It is difficult to say which showed the greatest want of wisdom, the +Government in issuing such an order, or the Chief Commissioner in +accepting such a mission, quite derogatory to one of such high rank. We +all know how it ended. The less said about it the better, it reflects +no credit on us.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3139src" href="#xd20e3139" +name="xd20e3139src">3</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb279" href= +"#pb279" name="pb279">279</a>]</span></p> +<p>With one or two things, however, I am concerned, and one of these is +the sentence on Thangal Major, or General as he was called; in the +correspondence usually ignorantly referred to, as “The Thangal +General,” a misnomer, Thangal being a name and not a title. This +old man seventy-four years of age had long almost retired into private +life. He was a devoted follower of Soor Chandra Singh, and hated the +Senaputtee whose evil influence he always feared would wreck Manipur. +This probably made the latter recall him to public life, so as to keep +him under his eye; anyhow, he was by force of circumstances obliged, +however unwillingly, to act as a loyal subject of his own <i>de +facto</i> chief.</p> +<p>I have said so much about the old man, that his character will be +well understood. He was a strong, able, unscrupulous man, not likely to +stick at trifles, and, like most Asiatics of his type, capable of +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb280" href="#pb280" name= +"pb280">280</a>]</span>anything. This does not, however, mean that he +was worse than his neighbours, our characters are made by our +surroundings, and in Manipur the surroundings are not of an elevating +nature. Thangal was in many ways kind hearted, in others ruthless, and +for the moment cruel, his wrath flared up and, except when kept aglow +for policy’s sake, soon burned itself out.</p> +<p>When first I heard of the outbreak I made two predictions, both +proved to be true. One of these was that, whoever was guilty, Thangal +Major would be accused. I never did think him guilty by premeditation, +but I knew that, as for so long a time he was the strong head of the +executive, he was not loved, and that to save the Senaputtee, whom I of +course at once pitched upon as the ”<i lang="la">fons et +origo</i>” of the rebellion, and who like all of the blood royal +was looked upon as semi-divine, he would be accused. I read the +evidence published, which I can quite understand appeared conclusive to +the tribunal before which he was tried; reading between the lines, +however, with a thorough knowledge of Manipur as I was able to do, it +gave me quite a different impression. Knowing the old man so intimately +as I did, his way of talking and his way of acting, I am convinced that +he was in no way a willing accessory to the rebellion, that he in no +way connived at the invitation to our officers to enter the palace at +night, and further that he never suggested or consented to their +murder! The whole proceeding was so totally opposed to his policy that +he would never have sanctioned such an act of folly, to say the least. +The Senaputtee richly deserved all he got and more. <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb281" href="#pb281" name="pb281">281</a>]</span>An +unscrupulous and selfish butcher by nature he played his cards badly +and when he lost, determined to involve his whole family and loyal +dependents in the ruin which his own insensate folly had brought on +him. I quite acknowledge old Thangal’s many faults, but I also +remember his good qualities, and shall ever regret that he came to such +an untimely end.</p> +<p>As regards the disposition of the throne I have a word to say. +Recognising as I do the necessity of maintaining the firmness of our +rule and prestige to the utmost, a rule that is of incalculable benefit +to millions, I quite approved of a heavy punishment being exacted as a +terrible warning to all time, when we re-conquered Manipur. It cannot +be denied that we showed unseemly want of nerve when the news of the +disaster arrived. There was no necessity to place Assam under a +military ruler, nor was there any need for such a formidable muster of +troops, at a vast expenditure of money and suffering, to retrieve a +disaster brought about by such an extraordinary want of courage, nerve, +forethought and common-sense.<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3168src" href= +"#xd20e3168" name="xd20e3168src">4</a> Our position in Manipur had +never been a dangerous one, and even after the murder of the Chief +Commissioner’s party the troops in the Residency might easily +have held their own till daybreak, when all opposition <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb282" href="#pb282" name= +"pb282">282</a>]</span>would have collapsed, and the rebels would have +fled, leaving our people masters of the situation.</p> +<p>I have expressed my opinion as to the mistake we made in not +restoring the Rajah <i>before</i> the outbreak of March, and now I ask +the question, why, after the rebellion was put down, we did not do our +best to repair the evil by restoring Soor Chandra Singh to his own? He, +or his infant son, might have been restored, and have been kept in a +state of tutelage as long as necessary, and good government would have +been secured and our pledge to Chandra Kirtee Singh have been +maintained intact. Instead of this, an obscure child, a descendant not +of Ghumbeer Singh, but of Nur Singh, was selected, and the old line cut +off from the succession, and yet three generations had been faithful to +us. Ghumbeer Singh, Chandra Kirtee Singh, and Soor Chandra Singh all +served us loyally, and yet we suffered the last to die of a broken +heart in exile. Well might he exclaim, “And is this the reward +for so many years’ service!” For my part I say +emphatically, <i>let us beware, we have not heard the last of +Manipur</i>!</p> +<p>My sense of right and justice make me record facts as they strike +me, and yet I cannot help acknowledging as I do so, that the Government +of India is the best government in the world. When has India been so +governed, and what country in Europe has such an able and just +administration? Surrounded by difficulties, material, financial and +political, badgered by ignorant members of the House of Commons, for +ever asking foolish questions and moving foolish resolutions; the +stately bureaucracy plods steadily on with one object in view, the +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb283" href="#pb283" name= +"pb283">283</a>]</span>good of the people. If at times it makes +mistakes, who does not? The greatest General is he who makes fewest +mistakes, and, judged by this standard alone, the Government of India +has the first rank among governing bodies. It has, however, a title to +honour which no one can assail. It is the only instance in history of a +body of foreigners who govern an Empire, not for their own benefit, but +for the benefit of the races committed by Providence to their charge. +May Providence long watch over it! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb284" +href="#pb284" name="pb284">284</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3091" href="#xd20e3091src" name="xd20e3091">1</a></span> +“Oh! for a moment of Colonel Johnstone’s presence at such a +crisis,” wrote a British official from Manipur, to the +<i>Pioneer</i>, in 1891. “One strong word with the ominous +raising of the forefinger, would have paralyzed the treacherous rebel +Koireng (Senaputtee) from perpetrating this +outrage.”—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3109" href="#xd20e3109src" name="xd20e3109">2</a></span> Major +Trotter. He received wounds from an ambuscade, and died of their +effects, July, 1886.—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3139" href="#xd20e3139src" name="xd20e3139">3</a></span> +“The general history of the Manipur incident,” wrote the +<i>Times</i> in a leading article, Aug. 14, 1891, “must inspire +mingled feelings in the breasts of most Englishmen. The policy in which +it originated, cannot be said to reflect credit on the Government of +India, while the actual explosion itself was precipitated by a series +of blunders which have never been explained. There seems to be little +doubt that had the Government of India made up its mind promptly on the +merits of the dynastic quarrel between the dethroned Maharajah and his +brothers, the Senaputtee would hardly have been able to commit the +crimes which have cost him his life. But for five months the Government +of India seemed to accept the revolution accomplished last September in +the palace of Manipur. That revolution was notoriously the work of the +Senaputtee, although he chose, for his own reasons, to place one of his +brothers on the throne. The Government did not indeed assent to the +change, but their local representative does not appear to have taken +marked steps to express his disapproval. He is said to have tolerated +and condoned it to this extent, that he kept up friendly relations with +the new ruler as with the old. On the deplorable mistakes which led up +to the massacre, and made it possible, it is unnecessary to dwell. They +are still unaccounted for, and so many of the chief actors in that +fatal business have perished, that it is more than doubtful whether we +shall ever know exactly to whom they severally were +due.”—<span class="sc">Ed.</span></p> +<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id= +"xd20e3168" href="#xd20e3168src" name="xd20e3168">4</a></span> Three +columns (one alone numbering 1000 strong), were marched at once on +Imphal, which was found deserted. The Regent was the last of the +princes who fled. He released the surviving English prisoner, and sent +him to the British camp to ask for an armistice; but this was refused +until he delivered up the Englishmen already dead. The Manipuris, then +expecting no mercy, opposed the march of the troops.—<span class= +"sc">Ed.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="back"> +<div id="index" class="div1 index"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Index.</h2> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">A</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Abors, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a></p> +<p>Allen, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p> +<p>Almorah, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p> +<p>Alongpra, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p> +<p>Angamis, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>, <a href="#pb27" +class="pageref">27</a>, <a href="#pb148" class="pageref">148</a></p> +<p>Angao Senna, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p> +<p>Angelo, Captain, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a></p> +<p>Arracan, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p> +<p>Assam, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a>, <a href="#pb56" class= +"pageref">56</a>, <a href="#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p> +<p>Ava, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">B</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Badgley, Colonel, <a href="#pb18" class= +"pageref">18</a>, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a></p> +<p>Barrett, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a></p> +<p>Bayley, Sir Steuart, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a>, +<a href="#pb136" class="pageref">136</a>, <a href="#pb177" class= +"pageref">177</a>–180</p> +<p>Bernard, Sir C. and Lady, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a></p> +<p>Biggs, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb36" class="pageref">36</a></p> +<p>Boileau, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p> +<p>Bombay-Burmah Corporation, <a href="#pb244" class= +"pageref">244</a></p> +<p>Bretto, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a></p> +<p>Boyd, Major, <a href="#pb61" class="pageref">61</a></p> +<p>Boyle, Mr., <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a></p> +<p>Brown, Dr., <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p> +<p>Buddhism, <a href="#pb83" class="pageref">83</a></p> +<p>Bularam Singh, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a></p> +<p>Burmah, <a href="#pb80" class="pageref">80</a>, <a href="#pb240" +class="pageref">240</a></p> +<p>Burrail Range <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href= +"#pb24" class="pageref">24</a></p> +<p>Burney, Colonel, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a></p> +<p>Burrhampooter, R., <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>, <a href= +"#pb100" class="pageref">100</a></p> +<p>Burton, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p> +<p>Butler, Captain, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href= +"#pb25" class="pageref">25</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">C</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Cacharees, <a href="#pb24" class="pageref">24</a></p> +<p>Cachar, <a href="#pb124" class="pageref">124</a>, <a href="#pb149" +class="pageref">149</a>, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p> +<p>Calcutta, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>, <a href="#pb127" +class="pageref">127</a></p> +<p>Campbell, Sir G., <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a></p> +<p>——, Dr., <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p> +<p>——, Major, <a href="#pb258" class="pageref">258</a></p> +<p>Carnegy, Mr., <a href="#pb59" class="pageref">59</a>, <a href= +"#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>, <a href="#pb102" class= +"pageref">102</a></p> +<p>Cawley, Mr., <a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a>, <a href= +"#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p> +<p>——, Mrs., <a href="#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p> +<p>Chandra Kirtee Singh, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a>, +<a href="#pb74" class="pageref">74</a>, <a href="#pb89" class= +"pageref">89</a></p> +<p>China, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p> +<p>Chindwin, R., <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>, <a href= +"#pb100" class="pageref">100</a>, <a href="#pb250" class= +"pageref">250</a>–260</p> +<p>Chomjet, Rajah, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p> +<p>Cock, Major, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p> +<p>Coombs, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a></p> +<p>Cooper, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a></p> +<p>Cuttack, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a>, <a href="#pb44" +class="pageref">44</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">D</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Dalton, General, <a href="#pb43" class= +"pageref">43</a></p> +<p>Damant, Mr., <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>, <a href= +"#pb147" class="pageref">147</a>, <a href="#pb161" class= +"pageref">161</a></p> +<p>Debindro, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p> +<p>Delhi Assembly, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a></p> +<p>Deo Panee, <a href="#pb7" class="pageref">7</a></p> +<p>De Renzy, Dr., <a href="#pb168" class="pageref">168</a></p> +<p>Dimapur, <a href="#pb8" class="pageref">8</a>, <a href="#pb45" +class="pageref">45</a></p> +<p>Diphoo Panee, <a href="#pb10" class="pageref">10</a></p> +<p>Dufferin, Earl of, <a href="#pb262" class= +"pageref">262</a>–270</p> +<p>Dun, Captain, <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>, <a href= +"#pb222" class="pageref">222</a></p> +<p>Dunseree, R., <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a></p> +<p>Durand, Colonel, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">E</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Eerung, <a href="#pb98" class="pageref">98</a></p> +<p>Elliott, Sir C., <a href="#pb201" class="pageref">201</a>, <a href= +"#pb207" class="pageref">207</a>, <a href="#pb215" class= +"pageref">215</a>, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a></p> +<p>England, <a href="#pb1" class="pageref">1</a>, <a href="#pb206" +class="pageref">206</a></p> +<p>Eteson, Dr., <a href="#pb266" class="pageref">266</a></p> +<p>Evans, Major, <a href="#pb162" class="pageref">162</a> <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb285" href="#pb285" name="pb285">285</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">E</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Forbes, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb172" class= +"pageref">172</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">G</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Ganges R., <a href="#pb100" class= +"pageref">100</a></p> +<p>Ghumbeer Singh, <a href="#pb86" class="pageref">86</a>, <a href= +"#pb139" class="pageref">139</a></p> +<p>Goalundo, <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb214" +class="pageref">214</a></p> +<p>Golaghat, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a>, <a href="#pb177" +class="pageref">177</a></p> +<p>Gordon, Captain, <a href="#pb36" class="pageref">36</a>, <a href= +"#pb89" class="pageref">89</a>, <a href="#pb120" class= +"pageref">120</a></p> +<p>Gowhatty, <a href="#pb2" class="pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb51" +class="pageref">51</a></p> +<p>Grange, Mr., <a href="#pb34" class="pageref">34</a></p> +<p>Grant, Captain, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a></p> +<p>Guthrie, Colonel, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">H</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Henderson, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb169" class= +"pageref">169</a></p> +<p>Himalayas, <a href="#pb14" class="pageref">14</a>, <a href="#pb55" +class="pageref">55</a></p> +<p>Hinde, Mr., <a href="#pb155" class="pageref">155</a>–158</p> +<p>Hurreo Jan, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">I</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Indian-Colonial Exhibition, <a href="#pb108" class= +"pageref">108</a></p> +<p>Imphal, <a href="#pb65" class="pageref">65</a>, <a href="#pb121" +class="pageref">121</a></p> +<p>Irrawaddy R., <a href="#pb252" class="pageref">252</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">J</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Jenkins, Captain, <a href="#pb22" class= +"pageref">22</a></p> +<p>Johnstone, Sir James’s wife, <a href="#pb2" class= +"pageref">2</a>, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a>, <a href= +"#pb151" class="pageref">151</a>, <a href="#pb216" class= +"pageref">216</a></p> +<p>Johnstone, Sir James’s children, <a href="#pb48" class= +"pageref">48</a>, <a href="#pb133" class="pageref">133</a>, <a href= +"#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p> +<p>Joobraj (Soor Chandra Singh), <a href="#pb69" class= +"pageref">69</a>, <a href="#pb152" class="pageref">152</a></p> +<p>Juggernaut, Feast of, <a href="#pb144" class="pageref">144</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">K</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Keatinge, General, <a href="#pb57" class= +"pageref">57</a></p> +<p>Kendat, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a>, <a href="#pb250" +class="pageref">250</a></p> +<p>Kenoma, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p> +<p>Keonjhur, <a href="#pb130" class="pageref">130</a></p> +<p>Khyahs, <a href="#pb15" class="pageref">15</a></p> +<p>Kohima, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>, <a href="#pb23" +class="pageref">23</a>, <a href="#pb35" class="pageref">35</a>, +<a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a></p> +<p>Kongal Tannah, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a>, <a href= +"#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p> +<p>Kong-hoop-kool, <a href="#pb109" class="pageref">109</a>, <a href= +"#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>, <a href="#pb268" class= +"pageref">268</a></p> +<p>Koireng Singh (Senaputtee), <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>, +<a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a>, <a href="#pb152" class= +"pageref">152</a>, <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a></p> +<p>Kola Ranee, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p> +<p>Konoma, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>, <a href="#pb157" +class="pageref">157</a>–164, <a href="#pb170" class= +"pageref">170</a></p> +<p>Kooak Kaithel (crow bazaar), <a href="#pb96" class= +"pageref">96</a></p> +<p>Kubo valley, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb86" +class="pageref">86</a>, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a>, +<a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>, <a href="#pb212" class= +"pageref">212</a>, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a>, <a href= +"#pb264" class="pageref">264</a></p> +<p>Kuki tribe, <a href="#pb25" class="pageref">25</a>, <a href="#pb164" +class="pageref">164</a>, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>, +<a href="#pb180" class="pageref">180</a>, <a href="#pb196" class= +"pageref">196</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">L</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Langthabal, <a href="#pb88" class="pageref">88</a>, +<a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p> +<p>Logtak Lake, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a>, <a href= +"#pb205" class="pageref">205</a></p> +<p>Lumphal, <a href="#pb239" class="pageref">239</a></p> +<p>Lushais, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>, <a href="#pb192" +class="pageref">192</a></p> +<p>Lyall, Sir A., <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p> +<p>Lytton, Lord, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">M</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Macgregor, Colonel, <a href="#pb174" class= +"pageref">174</a></p> +<p>Mahometans, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>, <a href="#pb221" +class="pageref">221</a></p> +<p>Mansel, Colonel, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p> +<p>Mao Tannah, <a href="#pb149" class="pageref">149</a>, <a href= +"#pb198" class="pageref">198</a>, <a href="#pb242" class= +"pageref">242</a></p> +<p>McCulloch, Colonel, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>, <a href= +"#pb60" class="pageref">60</a>, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>, +<a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a></p> +<p>Medlicotts, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a></p> +<p>Michell, Colonel, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p> +<p>Mingin, <a href="#pb259" class="pageref">259</a></p> +<p>——, Woon of, <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a>, +<a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a></p> +<p>Moncur, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p> +<p>Mozuma, <a href="#pb39" class="pageref">39</a>, <a href="#pb42" +class="pageref">42</a>, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a>, +<a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">N</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Nambor Forest, <a href="#pb6" class= +"pageref">6</a></p> +<p>Nation, General, <a href="#pb162" class="pageref">162</a></p> +<p>Needham, Mr., <a href="#pb11" class="pageref">11</a>, <a href= +"#pb48" class="pageref">48</a></p> +<p>Nichu Guard, <a href="#pb16" class="pageref">16</a></p> +<p>Nigriting, <a href="#pb3" class="pageref">3</a></p> +<p>Noonpong, <a href="#pb6" class="pageref">6</a></p> +<p>Nowkattu, <a href="#pb9" class="pageref">9</a>, <a href="#pb42" +class="pageref">42</a></p> +<p>Nur Singh, Rajah, <a href="#pb89" class="pageref">89</a>, <a href= +"#pb282" class="pageref">282</a></p> +<p>Nuttall, Colonel, <a href="#pb169" class="pageref">169</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">O</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">O’Brien, Dr., <a href="#pb178" class= +"pageref">178</a></p> +<p>Ogle, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a></p> +<p>Oldham, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">P</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Pegu, <a href="#pb82" class="pageref">82</a></p> +<p>Pemberton, <span class="corr" id="xd20e4142" title= +"Source: Lieuteuant">Lieutenant</span>, <a href="#pb85" class= +"pageref">85</a></p> +<p>Phayre, Mr., <a href="#pb209" class="pageref">209</a>–214</p> +<p>Phoiching, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a></p> +<p>Pong, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p> +<p>Prendergast, General, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a></p> +<p>Pullel, <a href="#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Q</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Quinton, Mr., <a href="#pb5" class="pageref">5</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">R</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Raban, Lieutenant, <a href="#pb169" class= +"pageref">169</a>, <a href="#pb198" class="pageref">198</a></p> +<p>Ramsey, Sir H., <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a> <span class= +"pagenum">[<a id="pb286" href="#pb286" name="pb286">286</a>]</span></p> +<p>Ram Singh, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p> +<p>Roberts, Mr., <a href="#pb244" class="pageref">244</a></p> +<p>Ridgeway, Major, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>, <a href= +"#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p> +<p>Ruckstuhl, Mr., <a href="#pb257" class="pageref">257</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">S</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"><span class="corr" id="xd20e4226" title= +"Source: Samagooting">Samagudting</span>, <a href="#pb12" class= +"pageref">12</a>, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a>, <a href= +"#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p> +<p>Samoo Singh, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a></p> +<p>Scott, David, <a href="#pb85" class="pageref">85</a></p> +<p>Sena Kaithel (Golden bazaar), <a href="#pb134" class= +"pageref">134</a></p> +<p>Shillong, <a href="#pb58" class="pageref">58</a>, <a href="#pb270" +class="pageref">270</a></p> +<p>Sudya, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a></p> +<p>Sumjok, <a href="#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>, <a href="#pb200" +class="pageref">200</a>, <a href="#pb207" class="pageref">207</a></p> +<p>Suktis, <a href="#pb129" class="pageref">129</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">T</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Tangul, Major, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>, +<a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>, <a href="#pb236" class= +"pageref">236</a></p> +<p>Tamu, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb246" +class="pageref">246</a>, <a href="#pb263" class="pageref">263</a></p> +<p>Thobal, <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p> +<p>Thompson, Sir Rivers, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a></p> +<p>Trotter, Major, <a href="#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">V</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Verelst, Governor, <a href="#pb85" class= +"pageref">85</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">W</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Walker, Major, <a href="#pb158" class= +"pageref">158</a></p> +<p>Wankai Rakpar, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>, <a href= +"#pb281" class="pageref">281</a></p> +<p>Ward, Mr., <a href="#pb240" class="pageref">240</a>, <a href= +"#pb270" class="pageref">270</a></p> +<p>Watt, Dr., <a href="#pb210" class="pageref">210</a></p> +<p>Wilcox, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a></p> +<p>Williamson, Major, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p> +<p>Woodthorpe, Colonel, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p> +<p>Wynne, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Y</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Yoma Mountains, <a href="#pb102" class= +"pageref">102</a>, <a href="#pb234" class="pageref">234</a> +<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb287" href="#pb287" name= +"pb287">287</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">[<a href= +"#toc">Contents</a>]</span> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd20e118">London:<br> +Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Limited,<br> +Stamford Street and Charing Cross.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="transcribernote"> +<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2> +<h3 class="main">Availability</h3> +<p class="first">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no +cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give +it away or re-use it under the terms of the <a class="exlink xd20e41" +title="External link" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" rel= +"license">Project Gutenberg License</a> included with this eBook or +online at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.gutenberg.org/" rel="home">www.gutenberg.org</a>.</p> +<p>This eBook is produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team +at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.pgdp.net/">www.pgdp.net</a>.</p> +<p>This ebook has been prepared from <a class="exlink xd20e41" title= +"External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/myexperiencesinm00johniala">scanned +images</a> available from the Internet archive. Alternative scans are +also available (<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/myexperiencesin00johngoog">1</a>, +<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924024089744">2,</a> <a class= +"exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href= +"http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924098843083">3).</a></p> +<p>Related Library of Congress catalog page: <a class="catlink" href= +"http://lccn.loc.gov/45041575">45041575</a>.</p> +<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for source): <a class="catlink" +href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7203316M">OL7203316M</a>.</p> +<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for work): <a class="catlink" +href="http://openlibrary.org/works/OL6050142W">OL6050142W</a>.</p> +<p>Related WorldCat catalog page: <a class="catlink" href= +"http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/3874583">3874583</a>.</p> +<h3 class="main">Encoding</h3> +<p class="first"></p> +<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3> +<ul> +<li>2011-10-21 Started.</li> +</ul> +<h3 class="main">External References</h3> +<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These +links may not work for you.</p> +<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3> +<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p> +<table class="correctiontable" summary= +"Overview of corrections applied to the text."> +<tr> +<th>Page</th> +<th>Source</th> +<th>Correction</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e705">5</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputty</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputtee</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e840">18</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Hindustani</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Hindoostani</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e843">18</a>, +<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2231">175</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">)</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Deleted</i>]</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e869">21</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">hoo-cook</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">hoolook</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e885">22</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Nills</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Hills</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e917">24</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">nighbourhood</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">neighbourhood</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e939">N.A.</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Kohimas</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Kohima</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e984">29</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">hill tribes</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">hill-tribes</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1020">33</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">abitrarily</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">arbitrarily</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1040">35</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">remaind</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">remained</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1043">35</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">out</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">our</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1046">35</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">withrew</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">withdrew</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1078">38</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">advisibility</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">advisability</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1172">49</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Vauda</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Vanda</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1411">81</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">that</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">than</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1503">92</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">washerman</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">washermen</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1549">97</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">wîth</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">with</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1562">99</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Bularem</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Bularam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1586">101</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Viswena</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Viswema</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1611">104</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Kangjoopkool</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Kang-joop-kool</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1618">104</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">similiar</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">similar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1675">112</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">.</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">—</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1753">123</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Murumbo</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Murumboo</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1841">135</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Frecis</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Ficus</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1868">139</a>, +<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1871">139</a>, <a class="pageref" href= +"#xd20e1890">142</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Bularaam</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Bularam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2174">171</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">perpenpicular</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">perpendicular</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2222">175</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">detatched</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">detached</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2225">175</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2228">175</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Macregor</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Macgregor</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2273">180</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Nago</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Naga</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2335">188</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Thangel</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Thangal</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2397">196</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Senapattee</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Senaputtee</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2491">206</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">indepedent</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">independent</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2551">212</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Tsawbwaa</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Tsawbwa</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2652">225</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Noonsuangkoong</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Noongsuangkong</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2661">226</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">dis ant</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">distant</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2684">229</a>, +<a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2691">230</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Febuary</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">February</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2698">231</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Cephelotaxus</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Cephalotaxus</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2806">246</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">where-ever</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">wherever</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4142">285</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Lieuteuant</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Lieutenant</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4226">286</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Samagooting</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Samagudting</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga +Hills, by James Johnstone + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY EXPERIENCES IN MANIPUR *** + +***** This file should be named 37839-h.htm or 37839-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/8/3/37839/ + +Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project +Gutenberg (This file was produced from images 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